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 P O R T A B L E

Savannah
3rd Edition

by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”

—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price

ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
 P O R T A B L E

Savannah
3rd Edition

by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

Here’s what critics say about Frommer’s:

“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”

—Booklist

“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price

ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
Published by:

WILEY PUBLISHING, INC.

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5 4 3 2 1
 Contents
List of Maps vi

1 The Savannah Experience 1

1 Frommer’s Favorite Savannah Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
3 Best Restaurant Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

2 Savannah’s History & Culture 9

1 History of a City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
2 Savannah’s Architecture & Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
3 The Art of Dining, Savannah Style . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

3 Planning Your Trip to Savannah 24

1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
2 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Savannah Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
What Things Cost in Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
4 The Active Vacation Planner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
5 Specialized Travel Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
6 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Fast Facts: Georgia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

4 Getting to Know Savannah 32

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Neighborhoods in Brief . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Fast Facts: Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
5 Where to Stay in Savannah 38
1 Along the Riverfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
2 In the Historic District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
3 Nearby Hotels & Inns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

6 Where to Dine in Savannah 56

1 Along or Near the Riverfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
2 In the Historic District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
3 In & Around the City Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69
4 In the Victorian District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
5 On the South Side . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71

7 Exploring Savannah 73
Sightseeing Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73
1 Historic Homes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
2 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77
3 Historic Churches & Synagogues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
Gateway to Historic Savannah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
4 The Forts: Civil War Memories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
5 Spooky Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .81
Martinis in the Cemetery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82
6 Black History Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83
7 Literary Landmarks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85
A Visit to the Murder House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
8 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87
9 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
A Visit to the Old Customs House . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
10 Sports & Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90
Exploring the Savannah National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . .91
8 Savannah Strolls 93
Walking Tour 1: Savannah’s Historic Squares . . . . . . . . . . . . .93
Walking Tour 2: The Riverwalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

9 Shopping in Savannah 107

1 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107

10 Savannah After Dark 113

1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
2 Live Music Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
3 Bar Hoppin’ & Pub Crawling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114
4 Gay & Lesbian Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117
5 Dinner Cruises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118

11 Day Trips & Overnights from Savannah 119

1 Tybee Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
Strolling Around Isle of Hope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120
2 Hilton Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124
Hilton Head’s Wonderful Wildlife . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
3 Daufuskie Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154
4 Beaufort . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
5 St. Simons Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164
6 Sea Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172

Index 174
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .174
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .178
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179
 List of Maps

Greater Savannah 34 Walking Tour: The Riverwalk

Where to Stay in 101
Savannah 39 Tybee Island 121
Where to Dine in Hilton Head 132
Savannah 57 Beaufort 159
Savannah Attractions 75
Walking Tour: Savannah’s
Historic Squares 95
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
A team of veteran travel writers, Darwin Porter and Danforth Prince have
produced numerous titles for Frommer’s including best-selling guides to
Italy, France, the Caribbean, England, and Germany. Porter is also a noted
Hollywood biographer; his most recent releases (2005) are Howard Hughes:
Hell’s Angels and Brando Unzipped (2006). He is a radio commentator and
newspaper columnist on popular culture; his broadcasts are heard in all 50
states. Prince, formerly of the New York Times Paris bureau, is the president
of Blood Moon Productions and other media-related firms.

AN INVITATION TO THE READER

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels,
restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us
about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in
upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we’d
love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Portable Savannah, 3rd Edition
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774

AN ADDITIONAL NOTE
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—
and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call
ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors,
and publisher cannot be held responsible for the experiences of readers while
traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to
stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras,
purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
FROMMER’S STAR RATINGS, ICONS & ABBREVIATIONS
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked
for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating
system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions
to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly.
Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three
stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are
rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars
(must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that
point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that
separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

Finds Special finds—those places only insiders know about

Fun Fact Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their
trips more fun

Kids Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

Moments Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

Overrated Places or experiences not worth your time or money

Tips Insider tips—great ways to save time and money

Value Great values—where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa
DC Diners Club MC MasterCard
FROMMERS.COM
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.
frommers.com for additional travel information on more than 3,500 desti-
nations. We update features regularly to give you instant access to the most
current trip-planning information available. At Frommers.com, you’ll find
scoops on the best airfares, lodging rates, and car rental bargains. You can
even book your travel online through our travel booking partners. Other
popular features include:
• Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
• Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
• Newsletter highlighting the hottest travel trends
• Online travel message boards with featured travel discussions
 1
The Savannah Experience

ISavannah.
f you have time to visit only one city in the Southeast, make it
It’s that special.
The movie Forrest Gump may have put the city squarely on the
tourist map, but nothing changed the face of Savannah more than
the 1994 publication of John Berendt’s Midnight in the Garden of
Good and Evil. The impact has been unprecedented, bringing in
millions in revenue as thousands flock to see the sights from the
bestseller and the 1997 movie directed by Clint Eastwood. In fact,
Savannah tourism has nearly doubled since publication of what’s
known locally as The Book. Even after all this time, some locals still
earn their living off The Book’s fallout, hawking postcards, walking
tours, T-shirts, and in some cases their own careers, as in the case of
the Lady Chablis, the drag queen in The Book who played herself
in the film.
“What’s special about Savannah?” we asked an old-timer. “Why,
here we even have water fountains for dogs,” he said.
The free spirit, the passion, and even the decadence of Savannah
resemble those of Key West or New Orleans rather than the Bible
Belt down-home “Red State” interior of Georgia. In that sense, it’s
as different from the rest of the state as New York City is from
upstate New York.
Savannah—pronounce it with a drawl—conjures up all the
clichéd images of the Deep South: live oaks dripping with Spanish
moss, stately antebellum mansions, mint juleps sipped on the
veranda, magnolia trees, peaceful marshes, horse-drawn carriages,
ships sailing up the river (though no longer laden with cotton), and
even General Sherman, no one’s favorite military hero here.
Today, the economy and much of the city’s day-to-day life still
revolve around port activity. For the visitor, however, the big draw
is Old Savannah, a beautifully restored and maintained historic area.
For this we can thank seven Savannah women who, after watching
mansion after mansion demolished in the name of progress, man-
aged in 1954 to raise funds to buy the dilapidated Isaiah Davenport
2 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E S AVA N N A H E X P E R I E N C E

House—hours before it was slated for demolition. The women

banded together as the Historic Savannah Foundation, and then
went to work buying up architecturally valuable buildings and
reselling them to private owners who promised to restore them. As
a result, more than 800 of Old Savannah’s 1,100 historic buildings
have been restored and painted in their original colors—pinks and
reds and blues and greens. This “living museum” is now the largest
urban National Historic Landmark District in the country—some
21⁄2 square miles, including 21 1-acre squares that survive from Gen.
James Oglethorpe’s dream of a gracious city.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Savannah Experiences

• Experiencing a 19th-Century Ambience Like Charleston,
Savannah is one of the top two cities in the South where you
can experience what elegant life was like in the 19th century by
checking into a B&B in a restored historic building. If you’re a
man sitting in one of these Victorian parlors, surrounded by
wall paintings of bygone belles, you’ll feel a little bit like Rhett
Butler come to call on Scarlett. Typical of these is the Eliza
Thompson House, built around 1847 in Savannah’s antebel-
lum heyday.
• Wandering the Isle of Hope Spanish conquistador Her-
nando de Soto came here 4 centuries ago looking for gold. The
island later became a place of refuge for Royalists escaping the
guillotine of the French Revolution. Today, the Isle of Hope, 10
miles south of Savannah, is an evocative and nostalgic reminder
of Savannah’s yesteryears. You can go for a stroll in a setting of
oaks lining the bluff, plenty of Spanish moss, and Georgia pine,
dogwood, magnolia, azalea, and ferns. See chapter 11.
• Having a Picnic Among Plantation Ruins There is no
more evocative site in the Savannah area for a picnic than
Wormsloe State Historic Site at 7601 Skidaway Rd., 10 miles
southeast of town. A picnic here can be combined with an
exploration of the Isle of Hope. Now ruins, these grounds were
once part of a 900-acre estate that belonged to Noble Jones, an
18th-century Colonial who came to Savannah with James
Oglethorpe in 1733. Nature trails are cut through the prop-
erty, and there are picnic tables. The property is reached along
a beautiful oak-lined drive that makes you think you’re on the
road to Tara. See chapter 11.
 F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E S AVA N N A H E X P E R I E N C E S 3

Impressions
Savannah is America’s Mona Lisa. Gaze your fill, look all you
will. (For once it’s quite polite to stare.) You may never
fathom the secret of her smile, but like those who love
and live with her, you will know the endless rich rewards
of trying.
—Writer Anita Raskin

• Pursuing Grits, Game & Gumbo In the state of Georgia,

only the much larger city of Atlanta equals Savannah in the
number of fine restaurants. Since the mid–18th century,
Savannah and the Low Country have been known for their
abundance and variety of food, and lavish eating and drinking
have long been loyal customs. The surrounding area was (and
is) rich in game and fish, including marsh hen, quail, crab, and
even deer. To these hunters’ trophies were added the bounty of
local gardens, including old favorites—collard greens, beets,
turnips, peas, okra, and corn on the cob. The corn was ground
into grits as well, and the okra was used to thicken gumbos, for
which every Savannahian seems to have a favorite recipe.
• Finding Your Own Forrest Gump Bench Arm yourself
with a box of chocolates and set out to find your own historic
Savannah square like Tom Hanks did in the film Forrest Gump,
where he began to spin out his adventures. Find the square of
your choice, perhaps Chippewa Square (where Forrest actually
sat), sit down, enjoy those chocolates, and watch the world go
by. Savannah revolves around its historic squares, and it’s said
that if you sit on a bench long enough, everybody in Savannah
will eventually pass by.
• Enjoying a Martini in Bonaventure Cemetery In The
Book, Mary Harty invited John Berendt, the author of Mid-
night in the Garden of Good and Evil, for martinis in this moss-
draped cemetery. It has since become a tradition to partake of
this quaint custom. On the former grounds of an oak-shaded
plantation, you can enjoy your libation in the midst of the long
departed. Of course, the proper way to drink a martini, as in
The Book, is in a silver goblet. Your seat? None other than the
bench-gravestone of poet Conrad Aiken. See chapter 7.
• Taking a Pub Crawl Along the Riverfront Savannah has
the best, friendliest, and most atmospheric pubs in Georgia,
4 C H A P T E R 1 . T H E S AVA N N A H E X P E R I E N C E

none more alluring than those along its historic waterfront.

On St. Patrick’s Day, people drive down from South Carolina
or up from Florida to go pubbing. But on any night you can
stroll along the cobblestones searching for your favorite hang-
out. Often you get staged entertainment. If not, count on the
locals to supply amusement. It’s all in good fun, people having
a hot time in an atmospheric setting of old warehouses—one
of the South’s best recycling programs. See chapter 10.
• Hitting the Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil Trail
It was The Book, by John Berendt, that put Savannah on the
tourist charters, and it’s fun to see the actual places where the
adventures in The Book unfolded. You can explore such sites as
the Mercer House, where the shooting of the blond hustler,
Danny Hansford, took place, or Bonaventure Cemetery, where
Berendt sipped martinis in silver goblets with Miss Harty. In the
evening, head for Club One (see below), a popular nightspot
that sometimes features the entertainments of the Lady Chablis,
one of Berendt’s main characters. See chapters 7 and 10.
• Spending a Day at the Beach on Tybee Island East of the
city, Tybee Island is a place to have fun. Sun worshipers, jog-
gers, surf-casters, kite-flyers, swimmers, and mere sightseers
come to these golden sands to escape the oppressive heat of a
Savannah summer. Join the pelicans, gulls, and shorebirds in
the dunes for beach dynamics. You’ll be following in the foot-
steps of Blackbeard, who often took refuge here. It is believed
that many of the pirate’s treasures are still buried at Tybee. To
cap off a perfect day, head for Fort Screven, a Civil War fort.
Then climb to the top of the lighthouse for a panoramic view
of coastal Georgia. See chapter 11.
• Camping It Up at Club One From Clint Eastwood to
Demi Moore, from Meg Ryan to Bruce Willis, every visiting
movie star or celebrity heads to this rollicking joint. ’Tis true
that some Savannahians refer to it as a gay club, and there are
those who would never darken its door. But the club attracts a
wide spectrum of humanity because it’s known for having the
best entertainment in Savannah. Sometimes even the fabled
Lady Chablis, empress of Savannah, appears here. This drag
queen gained prominence in John Berendt’s book, Midnight in
the Garden of Good and Evil, and played herself in the film
(Diana Ross wanted to). The dancing here is the hottest in
Savannah. See chapter 10.
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