THE

CHERUB
CARDIGAN
by @pages.and.projects
 Cherub Cardigan Pattern

Construction

This is a seamed cardigan with a combination of working flat and in the

round. The back and front panels are knit flat in three separate pieces
bottom up, and then joined at the shoulder with a three needle bind off.
The button band is then knit separately and sewn to the body. Finally, the
sleeves are worked bottom up in the round and then seamed to the body.

Fit

The cardigan is designed to have a relaxed, cropped fit with a slightly

cinched waist that sits around your natural waist. It is designed to have
around 15–20cm of positive ease around the chest, but you can size up or
down depending on your preferences.

The back panel is worked with short rows to provide shaping across the
shoulders. The front panels are approximately 5cm longer than the back
panels, so the shoulder seam sits slightly behind the top of your shoulder.

Size Guide

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Actual 75 83.5 92.5 105.5 114.5 123 130 145 154

chest
(cm)

Finished 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170

chest (cm)

Armhole 25 25 25 30 30 30 35 35 35
depth
(cm)

Meterage 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
Materials

- 700–1500m worsted weight yarn

- 5mm circular knitting needles
- 4mm circular knitting needles
- Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
- 1 stitch marker
- 1 stitch holder or scrap piece of yarn
- 4 25mm buttons

Gauge

The gauge is measured using stocking stitch, or stockinette stitch, on 5mm

needles.

16st x 24rows = 10cm x 10cm

Abbreviations
K Knit

P Purl

C2B Cable two back. Slide one stitch onto your cable needle and
place it behind your work. Knit the next stitch on your needle,
then knit the stitch from your cable needle.

C2F Cable two front. Slide one stitch onto your cable needle and
place it in front of your work. Knit the next stitch on your needle,
then knit the stitch from your cable needle.

C2BP Cable two back purlwise. Slide one stitch onto your cable needle
and place it behind your work. Purl the next stitch on your
needle, then purl the stitch from your cable needle.

C2FP Cable two front purlwise. Slide one stitch onto your cable needle
and place it in front of your work. Purl the next stitch on your
needle, then purl the stitch from your cable needle.

K2tog Knit two together

SSK Slip slip knit

M1R Make one right

KFB Knit front and back

S1WYIF Slip one with yarn in front

Start here!

Front right

Cast on 35 (39) 43 (47) 51 (55) 59 (63) 67 stitches on 4mm needles using the
long tail cast on method.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Waist 35 39 43 47 51 55 59 63 67
stitch
count

Row 1 (wrong side): *p1, k1* to last stitch, p1

Row 2 (right side): *k1, p1* to last stitch, k1

Continue working in rib until you have worked 16 rows total.

Set up row (WS): Purl to last 10 stitches, place marker, k1, p7, k1, p1

Switch to 5mm needles. You will now begin to work the cable pattern.

Row 1 (right side): k1, p1, c2f, k5, p1, slip marker, k to end of row
Row 2 (wrong side): p to marker, slip marker, k1, p4, c2fp, p1, k1, p1
Row 3: k1, p1, k2, c2f, k3, p1, slip marker, k to end of row
Row 4: p to marker, slip marker, k1, p2, c2fp, p3, k1, p1
Row 5: k1, p1, k4, c2f, k1, p1, slip marker, k to end of row
Row 6: p to marker, slip marker, k1, c2fp, p5, k1, p1

Repeat this cable pattern a total of 8 times. This cardigan is written to be

50cm in length from shoulder to waist, including the ribbing around the
hem. If you would like to make the cardigan longer or shorter, this is where
you can adjust the length. You can adjust the length in increments of
2.5cm by adding additional repeats of 6 rows or subtracting repeats of 6
rows.
Shaping

Maintaining the cable pattern as established, begin working decreases by

working a ssk immediately after the marker on the right side row.

Work a decrease in row 1 of your next cable pattern, and then every 6 (6) 6
(6) 6 (4) 4 (4) 4 rows. Your decreases are done on the right side (knit) rows.

After the decreases you will have 27 (31) 35 (39) 43 (43) 47 (51) 55 stitches.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Number 8 8 8 8 8 12 12 12 12
of
decreases

Shoulder 27 31 35 39 43 43 47 51 55
stitch
count

Continue for a further 4 pattern repeats with no decreases, ending on row

6 of the cable pattern. You will have worked a total of 20 pattern repeats if
knitting to pattern.

Leave your stitches to rest on a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.

Front left

Cast on 35 (39) 43 (47) 51 (55) 59 (63) 67 stitches on 4mm needles using the
long tail cast on method.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Waist 35 39 43 47 51 55 59 63 67
stitch
count

Row 1 (wrong side): *p1, k1* to last stitch, p1

Row 2 (right side): *k1, p1* to last stitch, k1

Continue working in rib until you have worked 16 rows total.

Set up row (WS): p1, k1, p7, k1, place marker, p to end of row

Switch to 5mm needles. You will now begin to work the cable pattern.

Row 1 (right side): k to marker, slip marker, p1, k5, c2b, p1, k1
Row 2 (wrong side): p1, k1, p1, c2bp, p4, k1, slip marker, p to end
Row 3: k to marker, slip marker, p1, k3, c2b, k2, p1, k1
Row 4: p1, k1, p3, c2bp, p2, k1, slip marker, p to end
Row 5: k to marker, slip marker, p1, k1, c2b, k4, p1, k1
Row 6: p1, k1, p5, c2bp, k1, slip marker, p to end

Repeat this cable pattern a total of 8 times, or if you have adjusted the
length mimic what you have done on your front right panel.

Shaping

Maintaining the cable pattern as established, begin working decreases by

working a k2tog immediately before the marker on the right side row.

Work a decrease in row 1 of your next cable pattern, then every subsequent
every 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 (4) 4 (4) 4 rows. Your decreases are worked on a right side
(knit) row.

After the decreases you will have 27 (31) 35 (39) 43 (43) 47 (51) 55 stitches.
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Number of 8 8 8 8 8 12 12 12 12
decreases

Shoulder 27 31 35 39 43 43 47 51 55
stitch
count

Continue for a further 4 pattern repeats with no decreases, ending on row

6 of the cable pattern. You will have worked a total of 20 pattern repeats if
knitting to pattern.

Leave your stitches to rest on a stitch holder or piece of scrap yarn.

Back

Cast on 75 (83) 91 (99) 107 (115) 123 (131) 139 stitches using long tail cast on on
4mm needles. This piece is knit flat, do not join in the round.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Back 75 83 91 99 107 115 123 131 139

stitch
count

Row 1 (wrong side): p2, *k1, p1* to last stitch, p1

Row 2 (right side): k2, *p1, k1* to last stitch, k1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 16 rows total.

Purl one row.

Change to 5mm needles.

Work in stocking stitch, knitting the right side rows and purling the wrong
side rows until your back piece measures 42cm. If you have adjusted the
length, then add or subtract the length you have added or taken away
from this measurement.

End on a wrong side (purl) row.

Short row shaping

You will now work 12 rows of short row shaping using German short rows.
Purl soho has a very helpful tutorial on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/a3S9cl47PYw?si=2Zc5jwm7ndYUJkpd

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Back 75 83 91 99 107 115 123 131 139

stitch
count

Turning 4 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9
number
Row 1 (rs): Knit until 4 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 stitches before end of row, then turn
your work.
Row 2 (ws): Purl until 4 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 stitches before end of row, then
turn your work.

Continue working for 10 more rows, turning your work 4 (5) 6 (6) 7 (7) 8 (8) 9
stitches before the short row stitch on each row, until you have worked a
total of 12 short rows.

Once you have finished working your short rows, work a further 4 rows.

Row 1 (rs): Knit to end, resolving double stitches

Row 2 (ws): Purl to end, resolving double stitches
Row 3: Knit to end
Row 4: Purl to end

Joining the shoulders

With right sides together and wrong sides facing outwards, work a three
needle bind off across your back and right front panel, then cast off 21 (21)
21 (21) 21 (29) 29 (29) 29 stitches, then work a three needle bind off across
your remaining back stitches and front left panel.

I recommend blocking your body at this point so you can get a good sense
of where your shoulders will sit before finalising your sleeve length.
Sleeve

Cast on 36 (36) 36 (40) 40 (40) 44 (44) 44 stitches on 4mm needles. Work in 1x1
rib for 16 rows, joining in the round.

Set up row (sizes 1–3): *(k1, m1r) 3 times, kfb, m1r, (k1, m1r) 4 times, kfb, m1r* to
end of round. You should have 80 stitches.

Set up row (sizes 4–6): *k1, m1r, k1, m1r, kfb, m1r, k1, m1r, kfb, m1r* to end of
round. You should have 96 stitches.

Set up row (sizes 7–9): *k1, m1r, kfb, m1r* to last two stitches, kfb, m1r, kfb, m1r.
You should have 112 stitches.

Switch to 5mm needles.

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Cuff 36 36 36 40 40 40 44 44 44

Sleeve 80 80 80 96 96 96 112 112 112

Pattern repeat:

Round 1: *k5, c2b, p1, c2f, k5, p1* to end of round

Round 2: *k4, c2b, k1, p1, k1, c2f, k4, p1* to end of round
Round 3: *k3, c2b, k2, p1, k2, c2f, k3, p1* to end of round
Round 4: *k2, c2b, k3, p1, k3, c2f, k2, p1* to end of round
Round 5: *k1, c2b, k4, p1, k4, c2f, k1, p1* to end of round
Round 6: *c2b, k5, p1, k5, c2f, p1* to end of round

Repeat these 6 rows a total of 3 times.

Round 1: *k5, c2b, p1, c2f, k5, p1* to end of round

Round 2: *k4, c2b, k1, p1, k1, c2f, k4, p1* to end of round
Round 3: *k3, c2b, k2, p1, k2, c2f, k3, p1* to end of round
Round 4: *k2, c2b, k3, p1, k3, c2f, k2, p1* to end of round
Round 5: *k1, c2b, k4, p1, k4, c2f, k1, p1* to end of round
Note: This is where the pattern starts to change, to fade into stocking
stitch.

Round 6: *c2b, k11, c2f, p1* to end of round.

Round 7: *k5, c2b, k1, c2f, k5, p1* to end of round
Round 8: *k4, c2b, k3, c2f, k4, p1* to end of round
Round 9: *k3, c2b, k5, c2f, k3, p1* to end of round
Round 10: *k2, c2b, k7, c2f, k2, p1* to end of round
Round 11: *k1, c2b, k9, c2f, k1, p1* to end of round
Round 12: *c2b, k11, c2f, p1* to end of round

Knit in stocking stitch (knit every round) until your sleeve is your desired
length. I recommend trying on the body of your cardigan at this point to
test the sleeve length.

Cast off in pattern. Make sure your cast off is not too tight and does not
pull the sleeves in at the top.

Button band

Cast on 11 stitches on 4mm needles.

Row 1: *p1, k1* to last stitch, s1 wyif

Row 2: k1, *p1, k1*

Work 1x1 rib until row 5.

Make buttonhole
Row 5: p1, k1, p1, k1, cast off 3, k1, p1, k1, s1 wyif
Row 6: k1, p1, k1, p1, cast on 3, p1, k1, p1, k1

Continue to work in 1x1 rib. Make a buttonhole on every 13th and 14th row 3
more times (4 buttonholes in total).

Note you will have to adjust the frequency of your buttonholes if you have
chosen to adjust the length of your cardigan.

Continue to work in 1x1 rib until your trim is long enough to go around the
front of your cardigan, from the bottom hem inside the right front
cardigan (this is the side with the buttonholes), around the back of the
neck and down the front left cardigan to the hem.
Finishing touches.

Seam your sleeves to your body using mattress stitch starting at the under
arm, then seam the sides of your cardigan from the underarm to the hem.

Sew your button band to the front of your cardigan.

Attach your buttons to your button band.

Weave in your ends and you’re done!

I would love to see your finished cardigans! If you use Instagram, please
share them using #CherubCardigan and tag me @pages.and.projects so I
can see your creations!
Stitch counts

Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Back 75 83 91 99 107 115 123 131 139

stitch
count

Shoulder 27 31 35 39 43 43 47 51 55
stitch
count

Cast off 21 21 21 21 21 29 29 29 29
number

Neck 23 23 23 23 23 31 31 31 31
stitch
count

Front 35 39 43 47 51 55 59 63 67
waist
stitch
count

Front 27 31 35 39 43 43 47 51 55
shoulder
stitch
count

Decrease 8 8 8 8 8 12 12 12 12
s to
shoulder

Rate of 6 6 6 6 6 4 4 4 4
decrease