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Real
Econometrics
The Right Tools to Answer
Important Questions
viii CONTENTS

9.4 Quasi and Weak Instruments 310

9.5 Precision of 2SLS 313
9.6 Simultaneous Equation Models 315
CASE STUDY: Supply and Demand Curves for the Chicken Market 319
Conclusion 323 .
Further Reading 324 .
Key Terms 325
. Computing Corner 325 .
Exercises 327

10 Experiments: Dealing with Real-World Challenges 333

10.1 Randomization and Balance 335
CASE STUDY: Development Aid and Balancing 338
10.2 Compliance and Intention-to-Treat Models 340
10.3 Using 2SLS to Deal with Non-compliance 346
CASE STUDY: Minneapolis Domestic Violence Experiment 350
10.4 Attrition 354
CASE STUDY: Health Insurance and Attrition 357
10.5 Natural Experiments 360
CASE STUDY: Crime and Terror Alerts 362
Conclusion 363 .
Further Reading 365 .
Key Terms 365
. Computing Corner 365 .
Exercises 366

11 Regression Discontinuity: Looking for Jumps in Data 373

11.1 Basic RD Model 375
11.2 More Flexible RD Models 380
11.3 Windows and Bins 386
CASE STUDY: Universal Prekindergarten 389
11.4 Limitations and Diagnostics 391
CASE STUDY: Alcohol and Grades 395
Conclusion 397 .
Further Reading 398 .
Key Terms 398
. Computing Corner 399 .
Exercises 400

III LIMITED DEPENDENT VARIABLES 407

12 Dummy Dependent Variables 409
12.1 Linear Probability Model 410
 CONTENTS ix

12.2 Using Latent Variables to Explain Observed Variables 414

12.3 Probit and Logit Models 418
12.4 Estimation 423
12.5 Interpreting Probit and Logit Coefficients 426
CASE STUDY: Econometrics in the Grocery Store 431
12.6 Hypothesis Testing about Multiple Coefficients 436
CASE STUDY: Civil Wars 440
Conclusion 443 .
Further Reading 443 .
Key Terms 444
. Computing Corner 444 .
Exercises 449

IV ADVANCED MATERIAL 457

13 Time Series: Dealing with Stickiness over Time 459

13.1 Modeling Autocorrelation 460
13.2 Detecting Autocorrelation 463
13.3 Fixing Autocorrelation 467
CASE STUDY: Using an AR(1) Model to Study Global Temperature
Changes 471
13.4 Dynamic Models 473
13.5 Stationarity 476
CASE STUDY: Dynamic Model of Global Temperature 482
Conclusion 486 .
Further Reading 487 .
Key Terms 488
. Computing Corner 488 .
Exercises 490

14 Advanced OLS 493

14.1 How to Derive the OLS Estimator and Prove Unbiasedness 493
14.2 How to Derive the Equation for the Variance of β̂1 499
14.3 Calculating Power 501
14.4 How to Derive the Omitted Variable Bias Conditions 502
14.5 Anticipating the Sign of Omitted Variable Bias 505
14.6 Omitted Variable Bias with Multiple Variables 507
14.7 Omitted Variable Bias due to Measurement Error 508
x CONTENTS

14.8 Collider Bias with Post-Treatment Variables 510

Conclusion 513 .
Further Reading 514 .
Key Term 514
. Computing Corner 514 .
Exercises 515

15 Advanced Panel Data 518

15.1 Panel Data Models with Serially Correlated Errors 518
15.2 Temporal Dependence with a Lagged Dependent Variable 520
15.3 Random Effects Models 524
Conclusion 526 .
Further Reading 526 .
Key Term 527
. Computing Corner 527 .
Exercises 530

16 Conclusion: How to Be an Econometric Realist 533

Further Reading 537

APPENDICES
Math and Probability Background 538
A Summation 538
B Expectation 538
C Variance 539
D Covariance 540
E Correlation 541
F Probability Density Functions 541
G Normal Distributions 543
H Other Useful Distributions 549
I Sampling 551
Further Reading 554 . Key Terms 554 . Computing Corner 554

Citations and Additional Notes 556

Guide to Review Questions 567

 CONTENTS xi

Bibliography 577

Photo Credits 586

Glossary 587

Index 596
LIST OF FIGURES

1.1 Rule #1 2
1.2 Weight and Donuts in Springfield 4
1.3 Regression Line for Weight and Donuts in Springfield 5
1.4 Examples of Lines Generated by Core Statistical Model (for Review
Question) 7
1.5 Correlation 10
1.6 Possible Relationships between X, , and Y (for Discussion
Questions) 12
1.7 Two Scenarios for the Relationship between Flu Shots and Health 14

2.1 Two Versions of Debt and Growth Data 25

2.2 Weight and Donuts in Springfield 28
2.3 Scatterplots of Violent Crime against Percent Urban, Single Parent,
and Poverty 32

3.1 Relationship between Income Growth and Vote for the Incumbent
President’s Party, 1948–2016 46
3.2 Elections and Income Growth with Model Parameters Indicated 51
3.3 Fitted Values and Residuals for Observations in Table 3.1 52
3.4 Four Distributions 55
3.5 Distribution of β̂1 58
3.6 Two Distributions with Different Variances of β̂1 62
3.7 Four Scatterplots (for Review Questions) 64
3.8 Distributions of β̂1 for Different Sample Sizes 66
3.9 Plots with Different Goodness of Fit 73
3.10 Height and Wages 75
3.11 Scatterplot of Violent Crime and Percent Urban 77
3.12 Scatterplots of Crime against Percent Urban, Single Parent, and
Poverty with OLS Fitted Lines 79

xii
 LIST OF FIGURES xiii

4.1 Distribution of β̂1 under the Null Hypothesis for Presidential Election
Example 96
4.2 Distribution of β̂1 under the Null Hypothesis with Larger Standard
Error for Presidential Election Example 99
4.3 Three t Distributions 100
4.4 Critical Values for Large-Sample t Tests 102
4.5 Two Examples of p Values 107
4.6 Statistical Power for Three Values of β1 Given α = 0.01 and a
One-Sided Alternative Hypothesis 110
4.7 Power Curves for Two Values of se(β̂1 ) 112
4.8 Tradeoff between Type I and Type II Error 114
4.9 Meaning of Confidence Interval for Example of 0.41 ± 0.196 118

5.1 Monthly Retail Sales and Temperature in New Jersey from 1992 to
2013 128
5.2 Monthly Retail Sales and Temperature in New Jersey with December
Indicated 129
5.3 95 Percent Confidence Intervals for Coefficients in Adult Height,
Adolescent Height, and Wage Models 133
5.4 Economic Growth, Years of School, and Test Scores 142

6.1 Goal Differentials for Home and Away Games for Manchester City
and Manchester United 180
6.2 Bivariate OLS with a Dummy Independent Variable 182
6.3 Scatterplot of Trump Feeling Thermometers and Party Identification 185
6.4 Three Difference of Means Tests (for Review Questions) 186
6.5 Scatterplot of Height and Gender 188
6.6 Another Scatterplot of Height and Gender 189
6.7 Fitted Values for Model with Dummy Variable and Control Variable:
Manchester City Example 192
6.8 Relation between Omitted Variable (Year) and Other Variables 199
6.9 95 Percent Confidence Intervals for Universal Male Suffrage Variable
in Table 6.8 202
6.10 Interaction Model of Salaries for Men and Women 204
6.11 Various Fitted Lines from Dummy Interaction Models (for Review
Questions) 206
xiv LIST OF FIGURES

6.12 Heating Used and Heating Degree-Days for Homeowner who

Installed a Programmable Thermostat 208
6.13 Heating Used and Heating Degree-Days with Fitted Values for
Different Models 211
6.14 Marginal Effect of Text Ban as Total Miles Changes 217

7.1 Average Life Satisfaction by Age in the United States 221

7.2 Life Expectancy and Per Capita GDP in 2011 for All Countries
in the World 223
7.3 Linear and Quadratic Fitted Lines for Life Expectancy Data 224
7.4 Examples of Quadratic Fitted Curves 225
7.5 Global Temperature over Time 228
7.6 Hypothetical Investment Data (for Review Questions) 231
7.7 Linear-Log Model for Life Expectancy Data 233
7.8 Post-Treatment Variable that Soaks Up Effect of X1 237
7.9 Example in which a Post-Treatment Variable Creates a Spurious
Relationship between X1 and Y 239
7.10 A More General Depiction of Models with a Post-Treatment
Variable 241

8.1 Robberies and Police for Large Cities in California 258

8.2 Robberies and Police for Specified Cities in California 258
8.3 Robberies and Police for Specified Cities in California with
City-Specific Regression Lines 259
8.4 Robberies and Police for Hypothetical Cities in California 265
8.5 Difference-in-Difference Examples 278
8.6 More Difference-in-Difference Examples (for Review Question) 282

9.1 Conditions for Instrumental Variables 302

9.2 Simultaneous Equation Model 317

10.1 Compliance and Non-compliance in Experiments 342

11.1 Drinking Age and Test Scores 374

11.2 Basic RD Model, Yi = β0 + β1 Ti + β2 (X1i − C) 377
 LIST OF FIGURES xv

11.3 Possible Results with Basic RD Model 378

11.4 Possible Results with Differing Slopes RD Model 382
11.5 Fitted Lines for Examples of Polynomial RD Models 383
11.6 Various Fitted Lines for RD Model of Form
Yi = β0 + β1 Ti + β2 (X1i − C) + β3 (X1i − C)Ti (for Review Question) 385
11.7 Smaller Windows for Fitted Lines for Polynomial RD Model in
Figure 11.5 387
11.8 Bin Plots for RD Model 388
11.9 Binned Graph of Test Scores and Pre-K Attendance 390
11.10 Histograms of Assignment Variable for RD Analysis 393
11.11 Histogram of Age Observations for Drinking Age Case Study 396

12.1 Scatterplot of Law School Admissions Data and LPM Fitted Line 412
12.2 Misspecification Problem in an LPM 413
12.3 Scatterplot of Law School Admissions Data and LPM- and
Probit-Fitted Lines 415
12.4 Symmetry of Normal Distribution 419
12.5 PDFs and CDFs 420
12.6 Examples of Data and Fitted Lines Estimated by Probit 424
12.7 Varying Effect of X in Probit Model 427
12.8 Fitted Lines from LPM, Probit, and Logit Models 435
12.9 Fitted Lines from LPM and Probit Models for Civil War Data
(Holding Ethnic and Religious Variables at Their Means) 442
12.10 Figure Included for Some Respondents in Global Warming Survey
Experiment 452

13.1 Examples of Autocorrelation 462

13.2 Global Average Temperature since 1880 465
13.3 Global Temperature Data 472
13.4 Data with Unit Roots and Spurious Regression 479
13.5 Data without Unit Roots 480
13.6 Global Temperature and Carbon Dioxide Data 483

14.1 A More General Depiction of Models with a Post-Treatment

Variable 511
xvi LIST OF FIGURES

A.1 An Example of a Probability Density Function (PDF) 542

A.2 Probabilities that a Standard Normal Random Variable Is Less than
Some Value 543
A.3 Probabilities that a Standard Normal Random Variable Is
Greater than Some Value 544
A.4 Standard Normal Distribution 545
A.5 Two χ Distributions
2
550
A.6 Four F Distributions 552
R.1 Identifying β0 from a Scatterplot 568
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LIST OF TABLES

1.1 Donut Consumption and Weight 3

2.1 Descriptive Statistics for Donut and Weight Data 26

2.2 Frequency Table for Male Variable in Donut Data Set 27
2.3 Frequency Table for Male Variable in Second Donut Data Set 27
2.4 Codebook for Height and Wage Data 29
2.5 Descriptive Statistics for State Crime Data 31
2.6 Variables for Winter Olympics Questions 39
2.7 Variables for Height and Wage Data in the United States 40

3.1 Selected Observations from Election and Income Data 51

3.2 Effect of Height on Wages 75
3.3 OLS Models of Crime in U.S. States 78
3.4 Variables for Questions on Presidential Elections and the Economy 87
3.5 Variables for Height and Wage Data in Britain 89
3.6 Variables for Divorce Rate and Hours Worked 89

4.1 Type I and Type II Errors 93

4.2 Effect of Income Changes on Presidential Elections 95
4.3 Decision Rules for Various Alternative Hypotheses 101
4.4 Critical Values for t Distribution 103
4.5 Effect of Height on Wages with t Statistics 104
4.6 Calculating Confidence Intervals for Large Samples 119
4.7 Variables for Height and Wage Data in the United States 123

5.1 Bivariate and Multivariate Results for Retail Sales Data 130
5.2 Bivariate and Multiple Multivariate Results for Height and Wages
Data 132

xvii
xviii LIST OF TABLES

5.3 Using Multiple Measures of Education to Study Economic Growth

and Education 141
5.4 Effects of Judicial Independence on Human Rights 153
5.5 Determinants of Major League Baseball Salaries, 1985–2005 156
5.6 Means and Standard Deviations of Baseball Variables 156
5.7 Means and Standard Deviations of Baseball Variables for Three
Players 157
5.8 Standardized Determinants of Major League Baseball Salaries,
1985–2005 158
5.9 Unrestricted and Restricted Models for F Tests 165
5.10 Variables for Height and Wages Data in the United States 173
5.11 Variables for Cell Phones and Traffic Deaths Data 175
5.12 Variables for Speeding Ticket Data 175
5.13 Variables for Height and Wages Data in Britain 176
5.14 Variables for Global Education Data 177

6.1 Feeling Thermometer toward Donald Trump 184

6.2 Difference of Means Test for Height and Gender 188
6.3 Another Way to Show Difference of Means Test Results for Height
and Gender 190
6.4 Manchester City Example with Dummy and Continuous
Independent Variables 191
6.5 Using Different Reference Categories for Women’s Wages and
Region 195
6.6 Hypothetical Results for Wages and Region When Different
Categories Are Used as Reference Categories 197
6.7 Difference of Means of Inheritance Taxes for Countries with
Universal Male Suffrage, 1816–2000 198
6.8 Multivariate OLS Analysis of Inheritance Taxes 201
6.9 Interpreting Coefficients in Dummy Interaction Model:
Yi = β0 + β1 Xi + β2 Di + β3 Xi × Di 205
6.10 Data from Programmable Thermostat and Home Heating Bills 209
6.11 Variables for Monetary Policy Data 215
6.12 Variables for Speeding Ticket Data 217

7.1 Global Temperature, 1879–2012 229

7.2 Different Logged Models of Relationship between Height and Wages 235
 LIST OF TABLES xix

7.3 Variables for Political Instability Data 247

7.4 Variables for Height and Wages Data in Britain 248
7.5 Variables for Speeding Ticket Data 249

8.1 Basic OLS Analysis of Robberies and Police Officers 257

8.2 Example of Robbery and Police Data for Cities in California 263
8.3 Robberies and Police Data for Hypothetical Cities in California 265
8.4 Robberies and Police Officers, Pooled versus Fixed Effects Models 266
8.5 Robberies and Police Officers, for Multiple Models 273
8.6 Bilateral Trade, Pooled versus Fixed Effects Models 275
8.7 Effect of Stand Your Ground Laws on Homicide Rate per 100,000
Residents 280
8.8 Variables for Presidential Approval Data 288
8.9 Variables for Peace Corps Data 289
8.10 Variables for Instructor Evaluation Data 290
8.11 Variables for the HOPE Scholarship Data 291
8.12 Variables for the Texas School Board Data 292
8.13 Variables for the Cell Phones and Traffic Deaths Data 293

9.1 Levitt (2002) Results on Effect of Police Officers on Violent Crime 297
9.2 Influence of Distance on NICU Utilization (First-Stage Results) 306
9.3 Influence of NICU Utilization on Baby Mortality 307
9.4 Regression Results for Models Relating to Drinking and Grades 308
9.5 Price and Quantity Supplied Equations for U.S. Chicken Market 321
9.6 Price and Quantity Demanded Equations for U.S. Chicken Market 322
9.7 Variables for Rainfall and Economic Growth Data 327
9.8 Variables for News Program Data 328
9.9 Variables for Fish Market Data 329
9.10 Variables for Education and Crime Data 331
9.11 Variables for Income and Democracy Data 332

10.1 Balancing Tests for the Progresa Experiment: Difference of Means

Tests Using OLS 339
10.2 First-Stage Regression in Campaign Experiment: Explaining Contact 347
xx LIST OF TABLES

10.3 Second-Stage Regression in Campaign Experiment: Explaining

Turnout 348
10.4 Various Measures of Campaign Contact in 2SLS Model for
Selected Observations 349
10.5 First-Stage Regression in Domestic Violence Experiment:
Explaining Arrests 351
10.6 Selected Observations for Minneapolis Domestic Violence
Experiment 352
10.7 Using Different Estimators to Analyze the Minneapolis Results
of the Domestic Violence Experiment 353
10.8 Regression Results for Models Relating Teacher Payment
Experiment (for Review Questions) 360
10.9 Effect of Terror Alerts on Crime 363
10.10 Variables for Get-out-the-Vote Experiment 367
10.11 Variables for Resume Experiment 369
10.12 Variables for Afghan School Experiment 371

11.1 RD Analysis of Prekindergarten 391

11.2 RD Analysis of Drinking Age and Test Scores 396
11.3 RD Diagnostics for Drinking Age and Test Scores 397
11.4 Variables for Prekindergarten Data 401
11.5 Variables for Congressional Ideology Data 403
11.6 Variables for Head Start Data 404

12.1 LPM of the Probability of Admission to Law School 411

12.2 Sample Probit Results for Review Questions 426
12.3 Multiple Models of Probability of Buying Store-Brand Ketchup 433
12.4 Estimated Effect of Independent Variables on Probability of Buying
Store-Brand Ketchup 434
12.5 Unrestricted and Restricted Probit Results for LR Test 438
12.6 Probit Models of the Determinants of Civil Wars 441
12.7 Variables for Iraq War Data 449
12.8 Variables for Global Warming Data 451
12.9 Variables for Football Coach Data 453
12.10 Variables for Donor Experiment 454
12.11 Balance Tests for Donor Experiment 455
 LIST OF TABLES xxi

13.1 Using OLS and Lagged Residual Model to Detect Autocorrelation 466
13.2 Example of ρ-Transformed Data (for ρ̂ = 0.5) 470
13.3 Global Temperature Model Estimated by Using OLS, Newey-West,
and ρ-Transformation Models 473
13.4 Dickey-Fuller Tests for Stationarity 484
13.5 Change in Temperature as a Function of Change in Carbon Dioxide
and Other Factors 485
13.6 Variables for James Bond Movie Data 492

14.1 Effect of Omitting X2 on Coefficient Estimate for X1 506

14.2 Examples of Parameter Combinations for Models with
Post-Treatment Variables 512
14.3 Variables for Winter Olympics Data 516

15.1 Another Set of Variables for Winter Olympics Data 530

A.1 Examples of Standardized Values 547

R.1 Values of β0 , β1 , β2 , and β3 in Figure 8.6 571
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selfe and another desired to goe farther to Guatemala, that there we
might practise Philosophy and Divinity in the famous Universitie of
that City. Nothing that we desired was denied unto us, onely the
time was thought not fit untill Michaelmas, because then the
schooles were renewed, and new Orders setled. In the meane time
the Provinciall having also heard of my verses ex tempore to the
Criolian Frier, and knowing that the Latin tongue is better grounded
in England then among the Spaniards (who abuse poore Priscian and
daily breake his pate with foolish soloecismes) and considering the
want hee had of a Master of the Latine tongue to supply a Lecture of
Grammar and Syntax to the youthes of Chiapa in a schoole in that
Cloister, which brought a sufficient yeerly stipend unto the Covent,
desired me to accept of that place untill such time as he should take
care to send me to Guatemala, promising me all incouragements in
the meane time fitting, and that I should when I would go about to
see the Country (which I much desired) and also that out of the
schoole annuity I should have my allowance for bookes, and other
necessaries. I could not but accept of this good offer; and so with
this imployment I remained in that City from Aprill to the end of
September, where I was much esteemed of by the Bishop and
Governour, but especially by the Prior, who would never ride about
the Country for his recreation, but he would take me with him,
whereby I had occasion to note concerning the Province, riches,
commodities, and government of Chiapa, what in the ensuing
Chapter I shall faithfully commend unto the Presse.

CHAP. XV.

Describing the Countrey of Chiapa, with the chiefest Townes

and Commodities belonging unto it.
Though Chiapa in the opinion of the Spaniards be held to be one of
the poorest Countries of America; because in it as yet there have
been no mines discovered, nor golden sands found in the rivers, nor
any haven upon the South-sea, whereby commodities are brought in
and carried out, as to Mexico, Guaxaca and Guatemala; yet I may
say it exceedeth most Provinces in the greatness and beauty of fair
Towns, and yeeldeth to none except it be to Guatemala; nay it
surpasseth all the rest of America in that one, and famous and most
populous Towne of Chiapa of the Indians. And it ought not to be so
much slighted by the Spaniards as it is, if they would looke upon it
as standing between Mexico and Guatemala, whose strength might
be all Americaes strength, and whose weakenesse may prove
dangerous to all that flourishing Empire, for the easy entrance into it
by the river of Tabasco, or for its neer joyning and bordering unto
Jucatan. Besides, the commodities in it are such as doe uphold a
constant trading and commerce amongst the inhabitants themselves,
and with other neighbouring Countries, and from no one part of
America doth Spaine get more Cochinil then from one of the
Provinces of Chiapa; the Townes also being great and populous, by
their yeerly pole tribute do adde much to the King of Spaines
revenues.
This Country is divided into three Provinces, to wit, Chiapa, Zeldales,
and Zoques; whereof Chiapa it selfe is the poorest. This containes
the great Towne of Chiapa of the Indians, and all the Townes and
farmes North-ward towards Maquilapa, and West-ward the Priory of
Comitlan, which hath some ten Townes, and many farmes of Cattle,
Horses, and Mules subject unto it; and neighbouring unto it lieth the
great valley of Capanabastla, which is another Priory reaching
towards Soconuzco. This valley glorieth in the great river, which hath
its spring from the mountaines called Cuchumatlanes, and runneth
to Chiapa of the Indians, and from thence to Tabasco. It is also
famous for the abundance of fish, which the river yeeldeth, and the
great store of Cattell which from thence minister food and provision
both to the City of Chiapa, and to all the adjacent Townes. Though
Chiapa the City, and Comitlan as standing upon the hils, bee
exceeding cold, yet this valley lying low is extraordinary hot, and
from May to Michaelmas is subject to great stormes and tempests of
thunder and lightning. The head Towne where the Priory stands, is
called Capanabastla, consisting of above eight hundred Indian
inhabitants. But greater than this is Izquintenango at the end of the
valley and at the foot of the mountaines of Cuchumatlanes
Southward. And yet bigger then this is the Towne of St.
Bartholomew Northward at the other end of the valley, which in
length is about fourty miles, and ten or twelve onely in breadth. All
the rest of the Townes lie towards Soconuzco, and are yet hotter and
more subject to thunder and lightning, as drawing neerer unto the
South-sea coast. Besides the abundance of cattell, the chiefe
commoditie of this valley consisteth in Cotton-wooll, whereof are
made such store of mantles for the Indians wearing, that the
Merchants far and neer come for them. They exchange them to
Soconuzco and Suchutepeques for Cacao, whereby they are well
stored of that drinke. So that the inhabitants want neither fish
(which they have from the river) nor flesh (for that the valley
abounds with Cattell) nor clothing (for of that they spare to others)
nor bread, though not of wheat, for there growes none; but Indian
Maiz they have plenty of; and besides they are exceedingly stored
with fowles and Turkeys, fruits, Hony, Tobacco and Sugar-canes.
Neither is mony here nor in Chiapa so plentifull as in Mexico and
Guaxaca; and whereas there they reckon by Patacones, or pieces of
Eight; here they reckon by Tostones which are but halfe Patacones.
Though the river be many waies profitable to that valley, yet it is
cause of many disasters to the inhabitants, who lose many times
their children, and their Calves and Colts drawing neere to the
water-side, where they are devoured by Caymanes, which are many
and greedy of flesh, by reason of the many prizes they have got.
The City of Chiapa Real, is one of the meanest Cities in all America,
consisting of not above four hundred housholders Spaniards, and
about an hundred houses of Indians joyning to the City, and called el
barrio de los Indios, who have a Chappell by themselves. In this City
there is no Parish Church, but onely the Cathedrall, which is mother
to all the inhabitants. Besides, there are two Cloisters, one of
Dominicans, and the other of Franciscans, and a poore Cloister of
Nuns, which are burdensome enough to that City. But the Jesuites
having got no footing there (who commonly live in the richest and
wealthiest places and Cities) is a sufficient argument of either the
poverty of that City, or of want of gallant parts, and prodigality in the
gentry, from whose free and generous spirits they like Horse-leeches
are still sucking extraordinary and great almes for the Colledges
where they live; but here the Merchants are close handed, and the
Gentlemen hard, and sparing, wanting of wit and Courtiers parts and
bravery, and so poore Chiapa is held no fit place for Jesuites. The
Merchants chiefe trading there is in Cacao, Cotton-wool from the
adjacent parts of the Country, in Pedlers small wares, and in some
Sugar from about Chiapa of the Indians, in a little Cochinil; for
commonly the Governour (whose chiefe gaine consisteth in this) will
not suffer them to be too free in this commoditie, lest they hinder
his greedy traffique. These have their shops all together in a little
Market-place before the Cathedrall Church, built with walkes and
Porches, under which the poore Indian wives meet at five a clock at
evening to sell what slap and drugges they can prepare most cheape
for the empty Criolian stomackes. The richer sort of these Merchants
go and send yet further to Tabasco for wares from Spaine, such as
wines, Linnen cloth, Figs, Raisins, Olives, and Iron, though in these
commodities they dare not venture too much, by reason the
Spaniards in that Country are not very many, and those that are
there, are such as are loath to open their purses to more then what
may suffice nature. So that what are Spanish commodities are
chiefly brought for the Friers who are the best and joviallest blades
of that Countrey. The Gentlemen of Chiapa are a by-word all about
that Country, signifying great Dons (dones, gifts or abilities I should
say) great birth, phantasticke pride, joyned with simplicity,
ignorance, misery and penury. These Gentlemen will say they
descend from some Dukes house in Spain, and immediately from the
first Conquerors; yet in carriage they are but clownes, in wit,
abilities, parts and discourse as shallow brained, as a low brooke,
whose waters are scarce able to leap over a pibble stone; any small
reason soone tries and tires their weak braine, which is easily at a
stand when sense is propounded, and slides on speedily when non-
sense carrieth the streame. The chiefe families in this City, are
named, Cortez, Solis, Velasco, Toledo, Zerna, and Mendoza. One of
these, who was thought the chiefe in my time, called Don Melchor
de Velasco, one day fell into discourse with mee concerning England,
and our English nation, and in the best, most serious and judicious
part of his Don-like conference, asked me whether the sun and
moone in England were of the same colour as in Chiapa, and
whether English men went barefoot like the Indians, and sacrificed
one another as formerly did the Heathens of this Countrey? and
whether all England could afford such a dainty as a dish of Frixoles
(which is the poorest Indians daily food there, being black and dry
Turkey or French beanes boyled with a little biting Chille or Indian
pepper with garlicke, till the broath become as black as any Inke)?
And whether the women in England went as long with child, as did
the Spanish women? And lastly, whether the Spanish nation were
not a farre gallanter nation then the English? When I perceived my
Don ran farther and farther into his simple and foolish questions, I
cut him off suddenly, telling him, Sir, It is long since I came out of
England, if you give me leave to recollect my memory, I will answer
some of these your hard questions the next time we meet (thinking
hereby to try my Dons wit further, whether he could perceive I
jeared him.) To which my simple Don replyed, I pray Sir doe, and
whensoever you come, you shall be welcome to a dish of Frixoles.
With this I tooke my leave of him, and at our farewell, he againe
desired mee to study well his questions, and to return him a speedy
answer, whereby I was more confirmed in my conceit of my Don,
that he was either tonto or bobo, foole or simple. Yet thought I my
best way to answer is to answer a fool according to his folly, and so
resolved within two or three daies to return unto him some simple
answer according to his simple and foolish questions. Therefore
speedily I singled out a good occasion of meeting with him at his
own house, who welcomed me with much Spanish gravity, and
sitting down before Donna Angela, his painted wife and Angel;
began to answer, or more to jeer his Donship. I began with the Sun
and Moon, telling him that they were planets, & had their speciall
influences upon severall nations, as all planets have upon mans
body. And so they did shew themselves according to the inclination
of the people of severall Kingdomes. And therefore as the Spaniards
were much inclined to Venus and to beauty, and not contenting
themselves with the naturall beauty of their faire Ladies, would yet
have Art add to nature by the skill and use of the best painting
colours; so these glorious planets of the Sun and Moon among the
Spaniards, and especially in Chiapa, shewed themselves most
comely, bright, glorious and beautifull, working the like inclination to
beauty upon, and in all Spaniards. My instance was in the land of the
Blackmores, where I told them that their bodies were black, and that
among them the Sun appeared with a dark and sad visage. Here my
Don cried out; An excellent example. I gave him yet a second
instance from the Eclipse of the Sun; which being eclipsed, made all
the Earth, mens faces and bodies seeme of a darke, or yellow colour,
to shew the proportion or sympathy of sublunary bodies to that high
and overmastering planet. To this that good Don replyed; sennor no
se puede decir mas, sir, nothing can be answered or said more or
better. Vengamos agora a Ingalatierra, Let us draw now to England.
To which I answered him, that in England the Sun and Moon
appeared halfe yeer of one colour, and half of another; for the
women one half yeer it appeared as in Spain and Chiapa, beautifull
and glorious, for that naturally without painting they yeelded to none
in beauty. But the other half yeer it appeared as red as blood, or
scarlet; and the reason might easily bee guessed at, for that no
Nation is more warlik and high spirited then the English, whose very
clothes were fiery, wearing more scarlet then any nation in the
World; as hee might perceive by their coming so much with their
ships to the Indian Coasts to fight with the Spaniards; and that as
they delighted to goe in red, and to bee like the Sun, so naturally
they were brought to those Seas to single out such ships as from
America carried the rich Commodity of Cochinill, whereof they make
more use then Spain it selfe to die their cloaths and Coats withall.
Here my Don jogged his head, and replyed; Sir, I thought no nation
had been so like the Sun as the Spaniards; for I have read that
when our Ancestors came to conquer these parts, the Indians called
them, hijos del Sol, that is, sons of the Sun, being comely and
gallant, and more like the Sun then any other people. To this I
answered him. Sir, no doubt but you are like the Sun here, and none
more glittering and bright, your very hatbands shining with Pearls
and Diamonds like the brightnesse of the Sun; But as I said before
the Blackmores are like their Sun, so I say, the English is like their
Sun, which is red, and so doe and will affect to wear Scarlet, as long
as any Cochinill is to be found in the India's.
Now Don Melchor began to understand mee, and told mee, never
man had satisfied him with better reasons then my self. Hee thanked
mee heartily, and told mee, hee thought no Gentleman in Chiapa
could tell so well as himself now why the English ships came so
much upon their Coasts; and that my discourse had satisfied him to
the full. Hee desired mee to goe on to his other questions. To his
second demanding whether the English went barefoot like the
Indians, I told him I thought that the Count of Gondomar, (who had
been many yeers Ambassadour from Spain in England) had satisfied
all the Spaniards that doubt, who coming from England to Madrid,
and being there asked by some Courtiers, whether London was as
big as Madrid, and as well peopled; he made answer, that hee
thought there was scarce a hundred left in London. Hee proved it
from the use and custome of his own Countrymen of Spain; who
when they are to make a journey, shew themselves two or three
daies before in colours, walking with boots and spurs, that their
friends may take notice that they are departing out of the Towne or
City. So said the Count of Gondomar, I think by this there are very
few People in London; for when I came from thence I left them all
almost in cloaths of colours, booted and spurred as ready to depart
and take some journey. And truely my Don (quoth I) your owne
Count hath answered for mee; yet I say, the English are so farre
from going barefoot, that they goe booted, and are all in a
readinesse to move out of England for any noble and generous
designe; but above all they are still ready for America, where they
know is store and abundance of Hydes to make them Bootes to
cover the barenesse of their legges, that they may not be suspected
to be like bare-footed Indians. Here Don Melchor replyed, I pray sir,
when they come by Sea to these parts doe they come also booted
and spurred? For I should thinke, when they fight, their Spurs should
hinder them. To this his doubt I answered first, as concerning
spurres in the ships, with the example of one of his own Nation, and
of the best Divines in Spain, living in my time in Valladolid, called
Maestro Nunno, (Reader of Divinity in the Colledge of St. Gregorie,
but in his carriage and experience in the World a simple noddy) who
being invited by a Noble man to goe with him in his Coach out of the
City a mile or two to a garden of recreation, went hastily about the
Colledge to borrow boots and spurs; and when he had put them on,
being asked whither he went, and why he put on boots and spurs,
answered that he was to goe in a Coach out of the City, and that
hee thought the Coach and Mules would want spurs to goe and
come the sooner. Even so my Don (quoth I) the English men come
booted and spurred in their ships, to make their ships sail on the
swifter. And this is the reason why the English ships saile faster, and
when they are in fight turn about quicker then a Spanish Galeon,
because they are spurred & kicked within. O Sir, I humbly thank you
(said Don Melchor) for that by your discourse now I know the truth
of what indeed I have often heard say, that the English ships are
nimbler, and quicker at Sea then our heavy Galeons. Now as for
fighting the English mens spurs (said I) are no hinderance to them,
but rather a great advantage. For they fight with weapons, with their
hands and with their feet, wherein they exceed the Spaniards; for
when they have shot with their peeces, or cut down with their
swords any enemy, or knocked him with their holbards, then with
their feet and spurres, they fall upon him, and so soone rid him out
of the way, that hee may no more rise up against them. All you have
told mee (said the wise Velazco) stands with so much reason, that
my judgment is convinced by you. As for eating and sacrificing one
another like the Indians (I told him) that the English filled their
bellies so well with fat Beef and Mutton, fowles, Rabbits, Partridges
and Pheasants, that they had no stomacke at all to mans flesh. And
that truly for frixoles dressed with garlick, that onely daintie dish was
wanting in England; and that for Garlick, three reasons moved the
English not to bee lavishing of that little they had; first, for feare
they should want it for their horses drenches; secondly, for that they
felt not themselves so much troubled with the wind, nor puffed up
with windy and vaine conceits as other nations did; but thirdly and
chiefly they refrained from it among themselves, that they might not
smell of it, and that by the sent and smell of it a farre off at Sea they
might when they came to the Coast of America, smell out a Spanish
ship, and know it from a Hollander. Here my Don Melchor fell into
admiration, assuring mee, hee had never heard more solid reasons
from any man. Alas poore Criolian of Chiapa (thought I) if I had
spoken sense, thy shallow braine had not beene able to have leaped
over it, but after non-sense thou art easily carried away. As for his
last question, I told him that was above my reach, for that poore
Fryers ought not to meddle with women, neither had my mother
ever told mee how long shee went with mee. But how ever if Donna
Angela would tell mee how long shee went with her children, I
would by the constellations of the Heavens search out against our
next meeting, how long the English women went with their children.
To this my Don Melchor answered that he would not trouble me to
study what he thought was not belonging to my profession; but he
knew that if I would study that or any other hard & difficult point, I
could give him more & better satisfaction then any scholar in that
City.
And thus (Reader) by this Don Melchors wit and ability would I have
thee judge of the Gentlemen Criolians or natives of Chiapa; and yet
as presumptuous they are and arrogant, as if the noblest bloud in
the Court of Madrid ran through their veines. It is a common thing
amongst them to make a dinner only with a dish of Frixoles in black
broath, boyled with pepper and garlicke, saying it is the most
nourishing meat in all the India's; and after this so stately a dinner
they will be sure to come out to the street-dore of their houses to
see and to be seen, and there for halfe an houre will they stand
shaking off the crums of bread from their cloaths, bands (but
especially from their ruffes when they used them) and from their
mustachoes. And with their tooth-pickers they will stand picking their
teeth, as if some small Partridge bone stuck in them; nay if a friend
passe by at that time, they will be sure to find out some crum or
other in their mustacho (as if on purpose the crums of the table had
been shaken upon their beards, that the losse of them might be a
gaining of credit for great house keeping) and they will be sure to
vent out some non-truth, as to say, A Senor que linda perdiz he
comido oy, O Sir, what a dainty Partridge have I eat to day, where as
they picke out nothing from their teeth but a black husk of a dry
frixole or Turkey bean. Though great in blood and in birth they say
they are, yet in their imployments they are but rich Grasiers, for
most of their wealth consisteth in farmes of Cattell and Mules. Some
indeed have Townes of Indians subject unto them, whereof they are
called Encomendero's, and receive yeerly from every Indian a
certaine Pole tribute of fowles and mony. They have most cowardly
spirits for warre, and though they will say, they would faine see
Spaine, yet they dare not venture their lives at sea; they judge
sleeping in a whole skin the best maxime for their Criolian spirits.
One hundred fighting souldiers would easily lay low those Chiapa
Dons, and gain the whole City, which lyeth so open to the fields, that
the Mules and Asses come in and grase, the streets being very
commodious to entertain Asses from within, and from without. Yet in
this City liveth commonly a Governour, or Alcalde Major, and a
Bishop. The Governours place is of no small esteem and interest, for
that his power reacheth farre, and he tradeth much in Cacao and
Cochinil, and domineers over both Spaniards and Indians at his will
and pleasure. But ill gotten goods never thrive, as was seen in Don
Gabriel de Orellana (Governour of this City and Countrey in my time)
who having sent the worth of eight thousand crownes in Cochinil,
Cacao, Sugar, and Hydes by the river of Tabasco towards the Havana
lost it all into the hands of the Hollanders, who doubtlesse knew how
to make better use of it, then would have done that tyrannizing
Governour. The Bishops place of that City is worth at least eight
thousand duckats a yeer, which truly he had need of that comes so
far from Spain to live in such a City where are such able Dons, as
Don Melchor de Velasco, and where Asses are so freely fed and
bred. Most of this Bishops revenues consisteth in great offerings
which he yeerly receiveth from the great Indian Townes, going out
to them once a yeer to confirme their children, whose confirmation
is such a means to confirme and strengthen the Bishops revenues,
that none must be confirmed by him who offer not a faire white
Wax-candle, with a ribban and at least foure Rials. I have seen the
richer sort offer him a Candle of at least six pound weight with two
yards of twelve penny broad ribban, and the Candle stucke from the
top to the bottom with single Rials round about. Nay the poore
Indians make it the chiefe masterpiece of their vanity to offer
proudly in such occasions. Don Bernardino de Salazar was the
Bishop of this City in my time, who desired my company to ride with
him his circuit but one moneth, about the Townes neer to Chiapa,
and in this time I was appointed by him to hold the basin wherein
the Spaniards and Indians (whilst he confirmed their children) did
cast their offerings, which my selfe and another Chaplaine did
alwaies tell and cast up by good account before we carried the mony
up into his chamber, and I found that at our returne at the moneths
end he had received one thousand and six hundred duckats of onely
offerings, besides the fees due to him for visiting the severall
companies, or sodalities and confraternities belonging to the Saints
or soules in their purgatory (which are extraordinary rich there)
whereof he and all other Bishops in their district take account yeerly.
This Bishop was (as all the rest are there) somewhat covetous; but
otherwise a man of a temperate life and conversation, very zealous
to reforme whatsoever abuses committed in the Church, which cost
him his life before I departed from Chiapa to Guatemala. The
women of that City it seems pretend much weakenesse and
squeamishnesse of stomack, which they say is so great, that they
are not able to continue in the Church while a Masse is briefly
hudled over, much lesse while a solemn high Masse (as they call it)
is sung, and a Sermon preached, unlesse they drinke a cup of hot
Chocolatte, and eat a bit of sweet-meats to strengthen their
stomackes. For this purpose it was much used by them to make their
maids bring to them to Church in the middle of Masse or Sermon a
cup of Chocolatte, which could not be done to all, or most of them
without a great confusion and interrupting both Masse and Sermon.
The Bishop perceiving this abuse and having given faire warning for
the omitting of it, but all without amendment, thought fit to fixe in
writing upon the Churches dores an excommunication against all
such as should presume at the time of service to eat or drinke within
the Church. This excommunication was taken by all, but especially
by the Gentlewomen much to heart, who protested if they might not
eat or drinke in the Church, they could not continue in it to heare
what otherwise they were bound unto. The chiefe of them knowing
what great friendship there was between the Bishop and the Prior,
and my selfe, came to the Prior and mee desiring us to use all
meanes wee could with the Bishop for the revoking that his
excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatning their
soules with damning judgement for the violation of it. The good
Prior and my selfe laboured all we could, alleadging the custome of
the Countrey, the weakenesse of the sex whom it most concerned,
and also the weaknesse of their stomackes, the contempt that might
from them ensue unto his person, and many inconveniences which
might follow to the breeding of an uproar in the church and in the
City, whereof we had some probable conjecture from what already
we had heard from some. But none of these reasons would move
the Bishop; to which he answered that he preferred the honour of
God, and of his house before his owne life. The women seeing him
so hard to be intreated, began to stomacke him the more and to
sleight him with scornefull and reproachfull words; others sleighted
his excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the Church, as the fish
doth water, which caused one day such an uproare in the Cathedrall,
that many swords were drawne against the Preists and Prebends,
who attempted to take away from the maids the cups of Chocolatte,
which they brought unto their mistresses; who at last seeing that
neither faire nor foule meanes would prevaile with the Bishop,
resolved to forsake the Cathedrall, where the Bishops own and his
Prebends eies must needs be watching over them; and so from that
time most of the City betooke themselves to the Cloister Churches,
where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled nor resisted,
though fairely counselled to obey the command of the Bishop;
whose name now they could not brooke, and to whose Prebends
they denied now all such reliefe and stipend for Masses which
formerly they had used to bestow upon them, conferring them all
upon the Fryers who grew rich by the poor impoverished Cathedrall.
This lasted not long, but the Bishop began to stomacke the Fryers,
and to set up another excommunication, binding all the City to resort
unto their owne Cathedrall Church; which the women would not
obey, but kept their houses for a whole month; in which time the
Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire himselfe to the
Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence he had in the
Prior that he would take care of him in his sickenesse. Physitians
were sent for far and neere, who all with a joynt opinion agreed that
the Bishop was poisoned; and he himself doubted not of it at his
death, praying unto God to forgive those that had been the cause of
it, and to accept of that sacrifice of his life, which he was willing to
offer for the zeale of Gods house and honour. He lay not above a
week in the Cloister, and as soone as he was dead, all his body, his
head and face did so swell, that the least touch upon any part of him
caused the skin to break and cast out white matter, which had
corrupted and overflowne all his body. A Gentlewoman with whom I
was well acquainted in that City, who was noted to be somewhat too
familiar with one of the Bishops Pages, was commonly censured to
have prescribed such a cup of Chocolatte to be ministred by the
Page which poysoned him who so rigorously had forbidden
Chocolatte to be drunk in the Church. My self heard this
Gentlewoman say of the deceased Bishop, that she thought few
grieved for his death, & that the women had no reason to grieve for
him, and that she judged, he being such an enemy to Chocolatte in
the Church, that which he had drunk at home in his house had not
agreed with his body. And it became afterwards a Proverbe in that
Country, Beware of the Chocolatte of Chiapa; which made me so
cautious, that I would not drinke afterwards of it in any house,
where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family. The
women of this City are somewhat light in their carriage, and have
learned from the Devill many entising lessons and baits to draw
poore soules to sinne and damnation; and if they cannot have their
wills, they wil surely work revenge either by Chocolatte or
Conserves, or some faire present, which shall surely carry death
along with it. The Gentlewoman that was suspected (nay was
questioned for the death of the Bishop) had often used to send me
boxes of Chocolatte or conserves; which I willingly received from
her, judging it to be a kind of gratuity for the paines I tooke in
teaching her son Latin. She was of a very merry and pleasant
disposition, which I thought might consist without sin; untill one day
she sent unto mee a very faire plantin wrapped up in a hankerchief,
buried in sweet Jazmines and roses; when I untied the handkerchief,
I thought among the flowers I should find some rich token, or some
peeces of eight, but finding nothing but a plantin, I wondred; and
looking further upon it, I found worked upon it with a knife the
fashion of a heart with two of blind Cupids arrows sticking in it,
discovering unto my heart the poisoned heart and thoughts of the
poisoner that sent it. I thought it a good warning to be wary and
cautious of receiving more presents or Chocolatte from such hands,
and so returned unto her againe her plantin with this short rhyme
cut out with a knife upon the skinne fruta tan fria, amor no cria, as
much as to say, fruit so cold, takes no hold. This answer and
resolution of mine was soone spread over that little City, which made
my Gentlewoman outragious, which presently she shewed by taking
away her sonne from schoole, and in many meetings threatning to
play me a Chiapaneca tricke. But I remembred the Bishops
Chocolatte and so was wary, and staid not long after in that
poisoning and wicked City, which truly deserves no better relation
then what I have given of the simple Dons, and the Chocolatte-
confectioning Donna's.
There is yet twelve leagues from this City of Chiapa, another Chiapa
which deserveth better commendations. This consisteth most of
Indians, and is held to be one of the biggest Indian Townes in all
America, containing at least four thousand families. This Towne hath
many priviledges from the King of Spain, and is governed chiefly by
Indians (yet with subordination unto the Spanish government of the
City of Chiapa) who doe choose an Indian Governour with other
inferiour officers to rule with him. This Governour may wear a rapier
and dagger, and enjoyeth many other liberties which to the rest of
the Indians are denied. No Towne hath so many Dons in it of Indian
blood as this. Don Philip de Guzman was Governour of it in my time,
a very rich Indian, who kept up commonly in his stable a dozen of as
good Horses for publike shewes, and ostentation as the best
Spaniard in the Countrey. His courage was not inferiour to any
Spaniard, and for defence of some priviledges of his Town sued in
the Chancery of Guatemala the proud and high minded Governour of
the City of Chiapa, spending therein great sums of money till he had
overcome him, whereupon he caused a feast to be made in the
Towne, both by water and land, so stately, that truly in the Court of
Madrid it might have been acted.
This Towne lyeth upon a great river, whereunto belong many boats
and Canoas, wherein those Indians have been taught to act sea-
fights, with great dexterity, and to represent the Nymphes of
Parnassus, Neptune, Æolus, and the rest of the heathenish Gods and
Goddesses, so that they are a wonder of their whole nation. They
will arme with their boats a siege against the Town, fighting against
it with such courage til they make it yeeld, as if they had been
trained up all their life to sea-fights. So likewise within the Town they
are as dexterous at baiting of buls, at juego de Cannas, at Horse-
races, at arming a Campe, at all manner of Spanish dances,
instruments, and musick as the best Spaniards. They will erect
Towers and Castles made of wood and painted cloth, & from them
fight either with the boats or one against another, with squibs, darts,
and many strange fire-works, so manfully, that if in earnest they
could perform it as well as they do it in sport and pastime, the
Spaniards and Fryers might soon repent to have taught them what
they have. As for acting of playes, this is a common part of their
solemne pastimes; and they are so generous, that they nothing
think too much to spend in banquets & sweet-meats upon their
Friers, and neighbouring Towns, whensoever they are minded to
shew themselves in a publike feast. The Towne is very rich, & many
Indians in it that trade about the Country as the Spaniards do. They
have learned most trades befitting a Common-wealth, and practise
and teach them within their Town. They want not any provision of
fish or flesh, having for the one that great river joyning unto their
Towne, and for the other many Estantia's (as they call them) or
farmes abounding with cattell. In this Towne the Dominican Fryers
bear all the sway, who have a rich and stately Cloister with another
Church or Chappel subordinate unto it. The heat here is so great,
that both Fryers and Indians commonly wear a linnen towel about
their necks to wipe off the constant swet from their laces, which
maketh the Friers sit longer at their dinner then els they would do,
for that at every bit they eate, and draught they drinke, they are
faine to make a stop to wipe their dropping browes. Yet the evenings
are fresh and cool, which are much made of there, and spent in the
many walkes and gardins which joyne close unto the River side. Two
or three leagues from the Towne, there are two Ingenio's or Farmes
of Sugar, the one belonging to the Cloister of the Dominicans of the
City of Chiapa; the other unto the Cloister of this Towne, which
containe neer two hundred Blackmores, besides many Indians, who
are imployed in that constant worke of making Sugar for all the
Country. Hereabouts are bread great store of Mules, and excellent
horses for any service. The Towne of Chiapa of the Indians, and all
the Townes about it want nothing but a more temperate climate and
cooler aire, and Wheat, which there cannot bee sowne, yet for
Spaniards and such as cannot live without it, it is brought from
Chiapa of the Spaniards and from about Comitlan; yet this is not
generally acknowledged a want by reason of the great plenty of Maiz
which all the Townes enjoy, and which is now more used both by
Spaniards and dainty toothed Fryers then bread of Wheat. Yet your
poore Spaniards, and some Indians who have got the trick of trading
from them doe gaine not a little in bringing to these Townes bisquets
of wheaten bread, which though it be dry and hard, yet because
they are novelties to the Indians; they get by changing them for
other commodities, especially of Cotton wooll, which here is more
abounding then in the Valley of Copanabastlau.
Upon this Country of Chiapa of the Indians bordereth the Province of
Zoques, which is absolutely the richest part of Chiapa. This reacheth
on the one side to Tabasco, and by the River named Grijalva sendeth
commonly the Commodities which are in it with safety unto St. John
de Ulhua, or Vera Cruz. It trafiqueth also with the Country of Jucatan
by the Haven called Puerto Real, which lyeth betweene Grijalva and
Jucatan. Yet these two, the River of Tabasco, alias Grijalva, and
Puerto Real, though they bee commodious to this Province of
Zoques, yet they are causes of daily feares unto the Spaniards, who
well know the weaknesse of them, and that if a forraine Nation
should manfully thrust into that Country by any of these two wayes,
they might so conquer all Chiapa, and from thence passe easily unto
Guatemala. But the River of Tabasco lying low, and being somewhat
hot, and the Towns about it infested with many gnats, and the
chiefest commodity there being but Cacao, have often discouraged
both our English and Hollanders, who have come up some part of
the River, and minding more the foresaid reasons, then what was
forward to bee had, have turned back, losing a rich Country and
slighting an eternall name, for few and frivolous present difficulties.
In this Province of Zoques, the Towns are not very bigge, yet they
bee very rich; the chief Commodities are Silk and Cochinill; whereof
the latter is held the best of America, and the store of it so great
that no one Province alone exceeds it. Few Indians there are who
have not their Orchards planted with the trees whereon the worms
breed which yeeld unto us that rich Commodity; not that the Indians
themselves esteem otherwise of it, then as they see the Spaniards
greedy after it, offering them mony for it, & forcing them to the
preservation of it in those parts, which have proved most successeful
for this kind. There is great store of silk in this Country, in so much
that the Indians make it their great Commodity to imploy their wives
in working Towels with all colours of silk, which the Spaniards buy,
and send into Spain. It is rare to see what works those Indian
women will make in silk, such as might serve for Patterns and
samplers to many School-mistresses in England. The people of this
Country are witty, and ingenious, and faire of complexion; the
Country towards Tabasco is hot, but within in some places very cold.
There is also plenty of Maiz, but no wheat; neither is there such
plenty of Cattell as about Chiapa, but Fowles and Turkies as many as
in other parts. The Province called Zeldales lyeth behind this of the
Zoques, from the North Sea within the continent, running up
towards Chiapa, and reacheth in some parts neer to the borders of
Comitlan north-westward. South-eastward it joyns to such Indians
which as yet have not been conquered by the Spaniards, who make
many invasions upon the Christian Indians, and burn their Towns,
and carry away their Cattell. The chief and head Town in this
Province is called Ococingo, which is a Frontier against those
Heathens. This Province is esteemed rich for the Spaniards, who
make much of Cacao, which serveth to make their drink of
Chocolatte, and here is great store of it. There is also another
Commodity, great among the Spaniards, called Achiotte, wherewith
they make their Chocolatte looke of the colour of a brick. Here is
also plenty of Hogs and Bacon, Fowles, Turkies, Quailes, Cattell,
Sheep, Maiz, Hony, and not farre from Ococingo, in my time was
setting up an Ingenio, or Farm of Sugar, which was thought would
prove as well as those about Chiapa of the Indians. The Country in
most parts is high and hilly; but Ococingo stands in a pleasant
Valley, injoying many Brookes and streams of fresh water, and
therefore hath been thought a fit place for Sugar. Here also in this
Valley the fryers have attempted to sow Wheat, which hath proved
very good. Thus Reader, I have shewed you the Country of Chiapa,
which as it is compassed about on the one side by Soconuzco, and
from thence almost to Guatemala, by the Province of
Suchutepeques, on the other side by Tabasco, and on the other side
by Zeldales with excessive plenty of Cacao and Achiotte, which are
the chief drugs for the making of Chocolatte; I wil yet before I
depart from Chiapa to Guatemala, say somewhat of that drinke so
much used by the Spaniards, and in my judgment not to be
sleighted, but rather to bee published and made known to all
Nations, whose use might remedy the great abuse of wines and
strong drinks which too much are esteemed amongst us here in
Europe.
 CHAP. XVI.

Concerning two daily and common Drinkes, or Potions much

used in the India's, called Chocolatte, and Atolle.

Chocolatte being this day used not onely over all the West-India's,
but also in Spain, Italy, and Flanders, with approbation of many
learned Doctors in Physick, among whom Antonio Colmenero of
Ledesma; (who lived once in the India's) hath composed a learned
and curious Treatise concerning the nature and quality of this drink;
I thought fit to insert here also somewhat of it concerning my own
experience for the space of twelve yeers. This name Chocolatte is an
Indian name, and is compounded from Atte, as some say or as
others, Atle, which in the Mexican language signifieth water, & from
the sound which the water (wherein is put the Chocolatte) makes, as
Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an instrument
called a Molinet, or Molinillo, untill it bubble and rise unto a froath.
And as there it is a name compounded, so in English wee may well
call it a compounded or a confectioned drink wherein are found
many and severall Ingredients, according to the different disposition
of the body of them that use it. But the chief Ingredient (without
which it cannot be made) is called Cacao, a kind of nut or kernell
bigger then a great Almond, which growes upon a tree called the
tree of Cacao, and ripens in a great huske, wherein sometimes are
found more, sometimes lesse Cacao's, sometimes twenty, sometimes
thirty, nay forty, and above. This Cacao, though as every simple, it
containes the quality of the foure Elements, yet in the common
opinion of most Physitians, it is held to bee cold and dry, a
prædominio; It is also in the substance that rules these two
qualities, restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of
the earth. And as it is thus a mixed, and not a simple Element, it
hath parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and
particularly it partakes of those which correspond with the Element
of Aire, that is, heat and moisture, which are governed by unctious
parts; there being drawn out of the Cacao much Butter, which in the
India's I have seen drawn out of it by the Criolian women for to oint
their faces. And let not this seeme impossible to believe, that this
graine or nut of Cacao should bee said to bee first cold and dry, and
then hot and moist; for though experience bee a thousand
witnesses, yet instances will further clear this truth; and first in the
Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are
binding, cold and dry, which have a virtue to strengthen, bind and
stop the loosenesse of the belly. Secondly, wee see this cleerly in the
steel, which having so much of the nature of the earth, as being
heavy, thick, cold, and dry, should be thought unproper for the
curing of Oppilations, but rather to bee apt to increase them; and
yet it is given for a proper remedy against them. The authority of
Galen may further cleare this in the third booke of the Qualities of
simples, where hee teacheth that almost all those medicines, which
to our sense seeme to be simple, are notwithstanding naturally
compounded, containing in themselves contrary qualities, that is to
say, a quality to expell, and to retaine, to incrassate and to
extenuate, to rarifie and to condense. And in the fifteenth Chapter
following in the same booke, he puts an example of the broth of a
Cock, which moves the belly, and the flesh hath the virtue to binde.
Yet further that this differing virtue and quality is found in divers
substances, or parts of simple medicaments, he shewes in the first
book of his simple medicines in the seventeenth Chapter, bringing
the example of milke, in which three substances are found and
separated, that is to say, the substance of cheese, which hath the
virtue to stop the fluxe of the belly; and the substance of whay,
which is purging, and butter, as it is expressed Chap. 15. Also we
find in wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say,
earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner substance, which is the
flower, and may be called the scum, or froath; and a third substance
which we properly call wine; and every one of these substances
containes in it selfe divers qualities and virtues, in the colour, in the
smell, and in other accidents.
And this is very comformable to reason, if we consider that every
aliment, be it never so simple, begets and produceth in the liver four
humours, not only differing in temper, but also in substance; and
begets more or lesse of that humour, according as the aliment hath
more or fewer parts corresponding to the substance of that humour,
which is most ingendred. From which examples we may gather that
when the Cacao is grinded and stirred, the divers parts, which
nature hath given it, doe artificially and intimately mixe themselves
one with another; and so the unctuous, warme, and moist parts,
mingled with the earthy represseth, and leaveth them not so
binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocrity, more
inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the aire, then to the
cold and dry of the earth; as it doth appear, when it is made fit to
drink, that scarce two turnes are given with the Molinet, when there
ariseth a fatty scum, by which is seen, how much it partaketh of the
oyly part. So that from all that hath been said, the error of those is
wel discovered, who speaking of this drink of Chocolatte, say, that it
causeth oppilations, because Cacao is astringent; as if that astriction
were not corrected and modified by the intimate mixing of one part
with another, by meanes of the grinding, as is said before. Besides it
having so many ingredients, which are naturally hot, it must of
necessity have this effect, that is to say, to open, attenuate, and not
to binde. And leaving aside more reasons, this truth is evidently seen
in the Cacao it selfe; which if it be not stirred, grinded and
compounded to make the Chocolatte; but be eaten as it is in the
fruit (as many Criolian and Indian women eat it) it doth notably
obstruct and cause stoppings, and make them looke of a broken,
pale and earthy colour, as doe those that eat earthen ware, as pots,
or pieces of lime-walls (which is much used among the Spanish
women thinking that pale and earthy colour, though with
obstructions and stoppings, well becomes them) and for this
certainly in the Cacao thus eaten there is no other reason, but that
the divers substances which it containes, are not perfectly mingled
by the mastication onely, but require the artificiall mixture, which
wee have spoken of before.
The tree which doth beare this fruit, is so delicate, and the earth
where it groweth so extream hot, that to keep the tree from being
consumed by the sunne, they first plant other trees, which they call,
las Madres del Cacao, mothers of the Cacao; and when these are
grown up to a good height fit to shade the Cacao trees, then they
plant the Cacaotals, or the trees of Cacao; that when they first shew
themselves above the ground, those trees, which are already grown
may shelter them, and as mothers nourish, defend, and shadow
them from the sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but many
of them (as I have said before) are in one great huske or cod, and
therein besides every grain is closed up in a white juicy skin, which
the women also love to suck off from the Cacao, finding it coole, and
in the mouth dissolving into water. There are two sorts of Cacao; the
one is common, which is of a darke colour inclining towards red,
being round and peeked at the ends; the other is broader, and
bigger, and flatter, and not so round, which they call, Patlaxte, and
this is white, and more drying, and is sold a great deal cheaper then
the former. And this especially, more then the other, causeth
watchfullnesse, and drives away sleep, and therefore is not so
usefull as the ordinary, and is chiefly spent by the ordinary and
meaner sort of people. As for the rest of the ingredients which make
this Chocolatticall confection, there is notable variety; for some put
into it black Pepper, which is not well approved of by the Physitians,
because it is so hot and dry, but onely for one who hath a very cold
liver; but commonly instead of this Pepper, they put into it long red
Pepper, called Chile, which though it be hot in the mouth, yet is cool
and moist in the operation. It is further compounded with white
Sugar, Cinnamon, Clove, Anniseed, Almonds, Hasell-nuts, Orejuela,
Bainilla, Sapayoll, Orenge flower water, some Muske, and as much of
Achiotte, as will make it looke of the colour of a red bricke. But how
much of each of these may be applyed to such a quantity of Cacao,
the severall dispositions of mens bodies must be their rule. The
ordinary receipt of Antonio Colmenero was this; To every hundred
Cacao's, two cods of Chile, called long red Pepper, one handfull of
Anniseed and Orejuela's, and two of the flowers called Mechasuchil,
or Bainilla, or instead of this six roses of Alexandria, beat to powder,
two drams of Cinnamon, of Almonds and Hasel-nuts, of each one
dozen; of white Sugar halfe a pound, of Achiotte, enough to give it
the colour. This Author thought neither Clove, nor Musk, nor any
sweet water fit, but in the India's they are much used. Others use to
put in Maiz, or Paniso, which is very windy; but such doe it onely for
their profit, by increasing the quantity of the Chocolatte; because
every fanega or measure of Maiz containing about a bushel and a
half, is sold for eight shillings, and they that sell Chocolatte, sell it for
four shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price. The Cinnamon is
held one of the best ingredients, and denied by none, for that it is
hot and dry in the third degree, it provokes urine, and helpes the
kidneys and reines of those who are troubled with cold diseases, and
it is good for the eyes, and in effect it is cordiall, as appeareth by the
Author of these verses,
Commoda & urinæ Cinamomum & renibus affert,
Lumina clarificat, dira venena fugat.
The Achiotte hath a piercing, attenuating quality, as appeareth by
the common practice of the Physitians in the India's, experienced
daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients to cut and
attenuate the grosse humors, which doe cause shortnesse of breath,
and stopping of urine: and so it is used for any kind of oppilations,
and is given for the stoppings which are in the breast, or in the
region of the belly, or any other part of the body. This Achiotte also
groweth upon a tree in round huskes, which are full of red graines,
from whence the Achiotte is taken, and first made into a paste, and
then being dried up is fashioned either into round balls or cakes, or
into the forme of little brickes, and so is sold. As concerning the long
red Pepper, there are foure sorts of it; one is called Chilchotes; the
other is very little, which they call Chilterpin, and these two kinds are
very quick and biting. The other two are called, Tonalchiles, and
these are but moderately hot, for they are eaten with bread by the
Indians, as they eat other fruits. But that which is usually put into
Chocolatte, is called Chilpaclagua, which hath a broad huske, and is
not so biting as the first, nor so gentle as the last. The Mechasuchil,
or Bainilla hath a purgative quality. All these ingredients are usually
put into the Chocolatte, and by some more, according to their
fancies. But the meaner sort of people, as Blackmores and Indians,
commonly put nothing into it, but Cacao, Achiotte, Maiz, and a few
Chiles with a little Anniseed. And though the Cacao is mingled with
all these ingredients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater
quantity of Cacao, then of all the rest of the ingredients, which serve
to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao; from whence it followeth that
this Chocolatticall confection is not so cold as the Cacao, nor so hot
as the rest of the ingredients, but there results from the action and
reaction of these ingredients, a moderate temper, which may be
good, both for the cold and hot stomacks, being taken moderately.
Now for the making or compounding of this drinke, I shall set downe
here the method. The Cacao, and the other ingredients must be
beaten in a morter of stone, or (as the Indians use) ground upon a
broad stone, which they call Metate, and is only made for that use.
But first the ingredients are all to be dried, except the Achiotte, with
care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in
stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black; for if they be
overdried, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamon
and the long red pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anniseed,
and then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it
be all powdred; and in the beating it must be turned round, that it
may mixe the better. Every one of these ingredients must be beaten
by it selfe, and then all be put into the vessell, where the Cacao is,
which you must stirre together with a spoon, and then take out that
paste, and put it into the morter, under which there must be a little
fire, after the confection is made; but if more fire be put under then
will only warme it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The
Achiotte also must be put in in the beating, that it may the better
take the colour. All the ingredients must be searsed, save onely the
Cacao, and if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the
better. When it is well beaten, and incorporated (which will be
known by the shortnesse of it) then with a spoon (so in the India's is
used) is taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and
made into tablets, or else without a spoon put into boxes, and when
it is cold it will be hard. Those that make it into tablets, put a
spoonefull of the paste upon a peece of paper (the Indians put it
upon the leaf of a plantin tree) where, being put into the shade (for
in the sunne it melts and dissolves) it growes hard; and then bowing
the paper or leaf, the tablet falls off, by reason of the fatnesse of the
paste. But if it be put into anything of earth, or wood, it stickes fast,
and will not come off, but with scraping or breaking. The manner of
drinking it, is divers; the one (being the way most used in Mexico) is
to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a tablet in hot water, and then
stirring and beating it in the cup, where it is to be drunke, with a
Molinet, and when it is well stirred to a scumme or froath, then to fill
the cup with hot Atolle and so drinke it sup by sup. Another way is,
that the Chocolatte, being dissolved with cold water and stirred with
the Molinet, and the scumme taken off and put into another vessel;
the remainder be set upon the fire, with as much sugar as will
sweeten it, and when it is warme, then to powre it upon the scum
which was taken off before, and so to drinke it. But the most
ordinary way, is, to warme the water very hot, and then to powre
out halfe the cup full that you mean to drinke; and to put into it a
tablet or two, or as much as will thicken reasonably the water, and
then grind it well with the Molinet, and when it is well ground and
risen to a scum, to fill the cup with hot water, and so drinke it by
sups (having sweetned it with Sugar) and to eat it with a little
conserve, or maple bread, steeped into the Chocolatte. Besides
these waies there is another way (which is much used in the Island
of Santo Domingo) which is, to put the Chocolatte into a pipkin, with
a little water, and to let it boyle well till it be dissolved, and then to
put in sufficient water and sugar according to the quantity of the
Chocolatte, and then to boyle it againe, untill there comes an oily
scumme upon it, and then to drinke it. There is another way yet to
drinke Chocolatte, which is cold, which the Indians use at feasts, to
refresh themselves, and it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte
(which is made with none or very few ingredients) being dissolved in
cold water with the Molinet, they take off the scumme or crassy
part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when the Cacao is
older and more putrefied. The scumme they lay aside in a little dish
by it selfe, and then put sugar into that part from whence was taken
the scum, and then powre it from on high into the scumme, and so
drinke it cold. And this drinke is so cold, that it agreeth not with all
mens stomacks; for by experience it hath been found, that it doth
hurt, by causing pains in the stomack, especially to women. The
third way of taking it is the most used, and thus certainly it doth no
hurt, neither know I why it may not bee used as well in England as
in other parts both hot and cold; for where it is so much used, the
most, if not all, as well in the India's, as in Spaine, Italy, Flanders
(which is a cold Countrey) find that it agreeth well with them. True it
is, it is used more in the India's, then in the European parts, because
there the stomackes are more apt to faint then here, and a cup of
Chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the stomack.
For my self I must say, I used it twelve yeers constantly, drinking
one cup in the morning, another yet before dinner between nine or
ten of the clock; another within an houre or two after dinner, and
another between four and five in the afternoon; and when I was
purposed to sit up late to study, I would take another cup about
seven or eight at night, which would keep me waking till about
midnight. And if by chance I did neglect any of these accustomed
houres, I presently found my stomacke fainty. And with this custome
I lived twelve yeers in those parts healthy, without any obstructions,
or oppilations, not knowing what either ague, or feaver was. Yet I
will not dare to regulate by mine owne the bodies of others, nor take
upon me the skil of a Physitian, to appoint and define at what time
and by what persons this drinke may be used. Onely I say, I have
known some that have been the worse for it, either for drinking it
with too much sugar, which hath relaxed their stomackes, or for
drinking it too often. For certainly if it be drunke beyond measure,
not only this Chocolatte but all other drinkes, or meats, though of
themselves they are good and wholesome, they may be hurtfull. And
if some have found it oppilative, it hath come by the too too much
use of it; as when one drinkes overmuch wine, instead of comforting
and warming himselfe, he breeds and nourisheth cold diseases,
because nature cannot overcome it, not turne so great a quantity
into good nourishment. So he that drinkes much Chocolatte, which
hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all
the parts; and that part which remaines in the slender veines of the
liver must needs cause oppilations and obstructions. But lastly, to
conclude with this Indian drinke, I will adde what I have heard
Physitians of the India's say of it, and have seen it by experience in
others (though never I could find it in my selfe) that those that use
this Chocolatte much, grow fat and corpulent by it; which indeed
may seem hard to beleeve; for considering that all the ingredients,
except the Cacao, doe rather extenuate, then make fat, because
they are hot and dry in the third degree. And we have already said,
that the qualities which doe predominate in Cacao, are cold and dry,
which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body.
Neverthelesse it may be answered that the many unctuous parts,
which have been proved to be in the Cacao, are those which
pinguifie and make fat; and the hotter ingredients of this
composition serve for a guide, or vehicall, to passe to the liver, and
the other parts, untill they come to the fleshy parts; and there
finding a like substance which is hot and moist, as is the unctuous
part, converting it selfe into the same substance, it doth augment
and pinguifie. But how then might this Cacao with the other Indian
ingredients be had in England? even by trading in Spaine for it, as
we doe for other commodities; or not sleighting it so much as we
and the Hollanders have often done upon the Indian seas; of whom
I have heard the Spaniards say that when we have taken a good
prize, a ship laden with Cacao, in anger and wrath we have hurled
over board this good commoditie, not regarding the worth and
goodnesse of it, but calling it in bad Spanish, Cagaruta de Carnero,
or sheeps dung in good English. It is one of the necessariest
commodities in the India's, and nothing enricheth Chiapa in
particular more then it, whither are brought from Mexico and other
parts, the rich bags of Patacons onely for this Cagaruta de Carnero,
which we call sheeps dung. The other drinke which is much used in
the Indians is called Atolle, of which I will say but a little, because I
know it cannot be used here. This was the drinke of the ancient
Indians, and is a thick pap made of the flower of Maiz, taking off the
huskes from it, which is windy and melancholy. This is commonly
carried by the Indian women to the Markets hot in pots, and there is
sold in cups. The Criolian students, as wee goe to a Taverne to drink
a cup of wine, so they go in company to the publike Markets, and as
publikely buy and drinke by measure of this Atolle; which somtimes
is seasoned with a little Chile, or long Pepper, and then it pleaseth
them best. But the Nuns and Gentlewomen have got a trick of
confectioning it with Cinnamon, Sweet-waters, Amber, or Muske, and
store of Sugar, and thus it is held to be a most strong and nourishing
drinke, which the Physitians doe prescribe unto a weake body, as we
doe here our Almond-milke. But of what England never knew nor
tasted, I will say no more, but hasten my penne to Guatemala,
which hath been my second patria.

CHAP. XVII.

Shewing my journy from the City of Chiapa, unto

Guatemala, and the chief places in the way.

The time now being come that I was to leave the little City of
Chiapa, I took some occasion before-hand to take my leave of my
best friends, whose children I had taught, and at my departure I
must confesse I found them kind and bountifull, except it were
Donna Magdalena de Morales, from whom I did not expect, neither
did I desire any farewell, or Adieu token. But among all, the
Governours wife was most liberall unto mee, sending mee many
boxes of Aromaticall Chocolatte, and one extraordinary great box
with foure severall divisions of different conserves gilt over, besides
many Maple breads, and Biskets made with Egs and Sugar, a present
it was which might have been sent to a greater man then to a poor
worthlesse Mendicant Fryer, and with this in a handkerchief a dozen
peeces of eight. Don Melchor del Velazco yet exceeded her, in words
and complements I meane, but in deeds, hee and all the crew of the
Criolians must thinke to come short of them, who are borne in
Spain. The first Town I went unto, was Theopixca, six leagues from
Chiapa, a faire and great Towne of Indians, who are held to bee next
unto the Indians of the other Chiapa in sitting and riding a horse. In
this town is nothing so considerable as the Church, which is great
and strong, and the musick belonging unto it sweet and harmonious.
The Vicar or Curate of this place was one Fryer Peter Martir a
Criolian, whom I knew could not indure the Prior nor mee, yet he
would dissemble a love complementall exceeding well, and in
outward shews raise it up to gradus ut Octo. He knowing my
prevalency with the Prior, durst not but give mee very good
entertainment, which continued two dayes, untill I was weary of his
complements.
The third day I tooke my leave of him, who would not yet leave
mee, but would conduct mee to Comitlan, whither I was invited by
the Prior of that Cloister, named Fryer Thome Rocolano, a French
man, who being a stranger to the Spaniards (for besides him and my
selfe there was no other stranger in that County) desired
acquaintance with mee, which hee began to settle by meeting mee
at the half way with many Indians on horse back, having provided
an harbour where wee might more conveniently conferre and rest
while our Chocolatte and other refreshments were provided. But the
Criolian Peter Martir was not a little envious, (as I was afterwards
informed in the Cloister) to see mee so much made of and esteemed
in the Country, yet his faire words and complements farre exceeded
the sincerity and down-rightnesse of my French friend. At Comitlan I
staied a whole weeke, riding about with the Prior unto the Indian
townes, and downe the hill to the valley of Copanabastla, where I
injoyed much pastime and recreation among the Fryers and Indians
and was feasted after the manner of that Country, which knoweth
more of an Epicurian diet then doth England, or any part of Europe;
nay I am perswaded (and I have heard Spaniards confesse it) that
Spain hath taken from the Indians since the conquest many lessons
for the dressing of severall dishes and compleating a feast or
banquet. After the week was ended my French friend the Prior
conducted mee to Izquintenango, to see mee well furnished up the
Mountaines of Cuchumatlanes. This Towne (as I have formerly
observed) standeth almost at the end of the Valley of Copanabastla,
and within two leagues of the Cuchumatlanes. It is one of the finest
Indian Townes of all the Province of Chiapa, and very rich, by reason
of the much Cotton wooll in it, and especially by reason of its
situation, for standing in the Roade way to Guatemala, all the
Merchants of the Country that trade with their mules that way, passe
through this Towne, and there buy and sell, enriching it with mony
and farre brought Commodities. It is most plentifully stored with
fruits, especially with what they call Pina's or Pine fruit. It standeth
close by the great River, which runneth to Chiapa of the Indians, and
hath its spring not farre off from the Cuchumatlanes, and yet at this
Town is very broad and deep. No man nor beast travelling to
Guatemala can goe into it, or from Guatemala can goe out of it, but
by ferrying over. And the Rode being much used and beaten by
travellers, and by such as they call Requas of mules (every Requa
consisting of fifty or threescore mules) this Ferry is day and night
imployed, and yeelds much treasure to the town at the yeers end.
The Indians of the Town besides the ferry boat, have made many
other little boats, or Canoa's to goe up and down the River. Hither
when the Prior of Comitlan had brought me, we were waited for by
the Vicar or Fryer of that Town with the chief and principall Indians,
and most of the Canoa's. As we ferryed over, the little Canoa's went
before us with the Quiristers of the Church singing before us, and
with others sounding their Waits and Trumpets. The Fryer that lived
in this Town, was called Fryer Geronymo de Guevara, little in stature,
but great in state, pride and vanity, as hee shewed himself in what
hee had provided for us both of fish and flesh. A brave professour or
vower of Mendicancy and poverty he was, who in twelve yeers that
hee had lived in that Towne, what by mumming of Masses for the
dead and living, what by shearing and fleecing the poore Indians,
what by trading and traffiquing with the Merchants that used that
Rode, had got six thousand Duckats, which hee had sent to Spain to
the Court of Madrid, to trade with them Simoniacally for the
Bishoprick of Chiapa, which if he obtained not, (yet when I came out
of that Country the report went that hee had obtained it) hee would
and was well able with a second supply to obtaine a better. After two
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