Advanced Pattern Making & Grading

UNIT 3
Pattern Grading
Pattern grading is the process of taking a base pattern and increasing or decreasing its size to
create a range of sizes for a garment. This process is essential in the apparel industry because
it allows manufacturers to create garments that fit body shapes and sizes.
Pattern grading involves carefully calculating and adjusting the proportions of each piece in
the pattern. It ensures that the main garment fits perfectly. This process requires a high level of
precision and attention to detail, as even small miscalculations can result in garments that are
ill-fitting or uncomfortable to wear.
technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the
measurements in a given size chart. Pattern grading is the drafting process of enlarging or
diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that
this is accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the
original model. This can be done manually or digitally using computerized pattern cutting
software. These increments are referred to as garment grading rules. Each specific clothing
market area and level has different grading rules. Through pattern grading, you can maintain
the essence of the garment without altering the shape, fit, dimensions, design, or the balance of
the article of clothing. With the use of pattern grading, it is possible to take one design and
create alternate dimensions as the size of the dress changes. This allows designers and sewers
of apparel to create one middle size, usually size twelve, and then grade up or down as
necessary.
GRADING TERMINOLOGY:

❖ Grade – The ‘grade’ of a pattern is the incremental increase or decrease in a pattern size at
a given cardinal point. For example; a large majority of commercial patterns will have a 2″
grade. This means that there is a 2″ difference between sizes.

❖ Grading – The process of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern style.

❖ Cardinal Points – The points on a pattern where it either increases or decreases. E.g: Neck,
shoulder, armhole, length, girth etc.

❖ Base pattern – The original pattern created (usually the middle of the size run). This is an
industry term. However, in the home setting…the base pattern would be whatever pattern you
are working with. For example, in the ITS Insider Exclusive Library…. there are certain
patterns that are only offered in 1 size, a size 6. This would be your base pattern.

❖ Trueing – is the process of smoothing and shaping angular and curved lines on a seam to
create a nice transition. Trueing includes checking to make sure seam lengths match, corners
are 90° angles where necessary, as well as folding darts to create proper seam pattern shape.
 ❖ Size Run – The sizes included in a specific style. For example; small, medium, large, xl…or,
4, 6, 8, 10, 12.

❖ Cut and Spread | Cut and Overlap – The process of manually grading a sewing pattern by
cutting the pattern apart and increasing or decreasing its size.

❖ Pattern Shifting – The process of manually grading by shifting a pattern back and forth to
increase or decrease its size.

❖ Suppression grading: This term is applied when the amount of suppression in a pattern is
increased or decreased. Suppression is all forms of darts, seams, pleats and gathers which are
used to control shapes or contours. It is nothing to do with styling. The suppression is to reduce
the girth measurements in relation to another adjacent girth measurement.

❖ Balance: These are various interpretations of balance, but it refers to the relationship
between the front length from nape over the bust to waist and floor, and back length from nape
to centre back waist to floor. It is also used as a general description, as the word suggests, for
a lack of distortion.

❖ Nested (stacked) grading: This described the superimposing of one size on another so that
the progression of increase is clearly visible
GRADING TECHNIQUES:
In the apparel manufacturing basic pattern grading methods are mainly divided into 2 types.
They are
1. Manual pattern grading or two-dimensional grading.
2. Computer-aided pattern grading or three-dimensional grading.
1. Manual pattern grading or two-dimensional grading: The desired range of sizes is
created, one by one, using a pattern template. Marks are made around the master pattern at the
appropriate distances and the marks the later joined up to form the enlarge pattern. There are
two basic methods of pattern grading. These include:
CUT AND SPREAD: Cut and Spread grading method are starts by the use of tracing and
marking techniques from the original master pattern to a white paper. Ensure that all the
marking lines like grain line, darts are visible here. In this method original patterns are cut
vertically into 3 parts and spread the cutting pieces by a specific amount to grade up. Then
overlap them to grade down. To do this process, only scissors, a pencil, measurement tape, and
a ruler is required. This is the easiest method, which acts as the basis of the other two methods.
To perform this method, you must cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a certain amount to
grade up, or overlap the pieces to grade down. The only tools you will need for this method are
a pencil, tape, ruler, and scissors
PATTERN SHIFTING: Pattern shifting is another process of pattern grading. When pattern
or fashion designer want to increase or decrease the overall dimensions of a pattern to get
different sizes is called pattern shifting. To make the pattern larger, transfer the original pattern
onto another sheet of paper. To make it smaller, they will have to trim the edges to the desired
dimensions. It is done by moving the master pattern a certain measured distance up and down
and left and right using a special designed ruler. To get the same result as the cut and spread
method designer redraw the outlines.
Advantages
▪ Cost effective process
Disadvantages:
▪ Time consuming process
▪ Expected accuracy may not be obtained
2. Computer-aided pattern grading or three-dimensional grading:
Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques. But when it first came, it
was only used by larger fashion or apparel manufacturers for their production process. Now
CAD is more affordable software. By this method every manufacturer’s get more accurate,
precise, detailed patterns in a short time. Computer grading is the most recent development in
grading technology. It is also the fastest method. Computer grading, however, is expensive and
usually only large manufacturers can afford it. Computer grading takes the processes of the two
former methods and digitizes them. There is not a superior method; they are all equally capable
of producing a correct garment grade.
Computer based grading systems operate in one of two ways:

❖ The grading increments are feed into the computer and the different sizes are generated
automatically using the same methods as applied for manual grading.

❖ The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the data in the size
specification charts.
The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed to scale on the computer monitor for visual
assessment and if necessary, adjustment. Once the pattern set has been generated on the
computer, it may be used in various ways, depending on the level of automation in the factory.
In a fully automated system, the garment parts will be sorted automatically and arranged into
a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a control program to the automatic
laying and cutting system. Alternatively, the patterns can be sent to a large plotting device
where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as paper patterns for manual cutting. The patterns
can also be used in an automatic device for cutting templates from more durable material.
Advantages: ▪ Quick process i.e., less time consumption; ▪ High accuracy may be obtained
Disadvantages: ▪ High initial cost is involved ▪ Skilled operator is required
`Manual Grading:
The desired range of size is created one by one using pattern templates/master patterns. A first
master pattern pieces are sketched on the pattern board and then the points are marked around
the pattern pieces as per the direction of grade rules. In this way we can get both the enlarged
or reduced size patterns for all sizes of a particular style of garments. A manually operated
grading machine can also perform this job. This device grips the master pattern pieces and
places on the pattern board as per the predetermined direction after which appropriate edge can
be traced out maintaining the grade rule.
Advantages:
1. Cost effective process
Disadvantages:
1. Time consuming process
2. Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
Computer Aided Grading: At first grade rules are stored in the computer memory and then
the computer can automatically develop pattern sets for all sizes using the direction given in
the grade chart.
Advantages:
1. Quick process i.e., less time consumption
2. High accuracy may be obtained
Stacking or "0" point for grading
For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the "x" or "y" grading of
pattern. It is defined as "O" point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve
panel. For centre front it is perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the "O" point
is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.
The term "Zero Point Grading" is often used in the context of pattern making and grading in
the textile and fashion industry. Grading is the process of creating a range of sizes for a
particular garment pattern. Zero Point Grading refers to a system where one size, often the base
or sample size, is designated as the "zero point." The other sizes are then generated by
systematically increasing or decreasing measurements from these zero points, ensuring that the
proportions and fit of the garment remain consistent across all sizes. This system helps maintain
the integrity of the original design while accommodating various body sizes.
Methods of grading
There are three basic methods of pattern grading. There is not a superior method; they are all
equally capable of producing a correct garment grade. These include:
• Cut and spread: This is the easiest method, which acts as the basis of the other two methods.
To perform this method, the pattern is first cut, and the pieces are spread by a certain amount
to grade up, or overlapped to grade down. The only tools necessary for this method are a pencil,
tape, ruler, and scissors.

• Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting involves increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it around at a constant distance. After the pattern is moved, the outline is redrawn in
order to produce the same results as cut-and-spread.
• Computer grading: Computer grading is the most recent development in grading technology.
It is also the fastest method. It takes the processes of the two former methods and digitizes
them, scaling patterns up precisely and mathematically.
What is the concept of pattern grading?
Pattern grading is the process of turning base size or sample size patterns into additional sizes
using a size specification sheet or grading increments. This can be done manually or digitally
using computerized pattern drafting software.