DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY

DR. B. R. AMBEDKAR NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY JALANDHAR

TTDC0341

KNITTING TECHNOLOGY LABORATORY

Name Course coordinator

Roll No. Signature

Group Date

1
 KNITTING TECHNOLOGY LABORATORY

At least 10 experiments are to be performed by each student

LIST OF EXPERIMENTS
1. To study the passage of yarn through plain circular knitting machine. ............................... 3

2. To study the different knitting elements including the cam system of circular knitting
machine. ............................................................................................................................... 6

3. To study the driving mechanism and production (m/h and kg/h) of circular knitting
machine. ............................................................................................................................. 10

4. To study the rib knitting machine including arrangement of dial and cylinder needles, cam
system and driving mechanism. ......................................................................................... 12

5. To study the interlock knitting machine, including an arrangement of dial and cylinder
needles, cam system and driving mechanism. ................................................................... 16

6. To study the passage of yarn through V-bed knitting machine. ........................................ 22

7. To study the different knitting elements including the cam of V-bed knitting machine. .. 24

8. To study driving mechanism and the production (m/h and kg/h) of V-bed knitting
machine. ............................................................................................................................. 26

9. Preparation and analysis of fabric sample (rib circular, half cardigan and full cardigan in
V-bed) knitting machine. ................................................................................................... 28

10. To study the effect of loop length in V-Bed knitting machine. ......................................... 31

11. To study plain, rib, and interlock knitted fabrics produced on circular knitting machine . 32

12. To analyse the weft and warp knitted fabrics .................................................................... 35

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 1

AIM

To study the passage of yarn through plain circular knitting machine.

THEORY

The yarn from the package is chased by using overhead type of unwinding. In the case yarn
first passage through bigger guide and reaches to tensioner. Here excessive tension to the loop
falls off and due to pressure of solenoid in disc the stop motion is actuated and machine is
stopped. In the running condition the yarn first stop guide and then go through the stop motion
which stop the machine in the absence of yarn. In case yarn goes through first yarn package to
guide then tensioner then the stop motion. Here can system is also important phenomenon.
Then yarn goes to the take-up roller here motion is given by the motor. At last the motion goes
to the cloth roller. In this case overhead cone winding is occurred, In the case there are lot of
stop motion. In the case if balloon formation then resistance will be more. If diameter decrease
of the balloon during the unwinding, then yarn break will be less.

Here this phenomenon is important they are yarn supply. Loom forming and fabric take up
zone. The main limitation of the machine is cylinder diameter will be fixed.

Draw

Figure 1.1. Schematic line diagram of circular knitting machine

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CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE (PLAIN)

S.No. Machine specification

1 Machine gauge 24
2 Cylinder diameter 12
(inch)
3 Yarn feeder 8-10
4 Cam system Hardened and grinded
5 Type of needle latch
6 Stitch density Arrangement to increase / decrease stitch density
7 Driving system timing belt system for carriage
8 Stop motion Yarn break, knot, yarn gauge, fabric drop, needle break, piece
count, motor overload/low voltage
9 Control system Micro computer system
10 Take down Uniform take down mechanism
11 Ac drive 1 HP ac drive (variable frequency drive)

PARTS OF A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

Part Description Function

Needle Cylinder

Needles

Sinkers

Yarn Feeders

Cam System

Sinker Ring

Take-Down System

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 Yarn Tensioners

Creel

Control Panel

Lubrication System

Frame and Base

Numerical 1.1. A circular knitting machine with a cylinder diameter of 30 inches has a gauge
of 4 needles per inch. Calculate the total number of needles on the machine

Numerical 1.2. Find out the gauge of a 30-inch diameter circular knitting machine if the total
number of wales in the fabric is 1320

Numerical 1.3. A textile factory is using a plain circular knitting machine with the following
specifications:

• Machine diameter: 12 inches

• Machine gauge: 24 needles per inch

• Number of feeders: 4

• Yarn linear density: 20 tex

• Machine speed: 20 revolutions per minute (RPM)

• Stitch length: 0.4 cm

• Fabric width contraction: 15%

Determine the following:

1. The total number of needles on the machine.

2. The length of yarn consumed per revolution.

3. The fabric production rate in meters per hour.

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 2

AIM
To study the different knitting elements including the cam system of circular knitting machine.
NEEDLES

The hooked metal needle is the principle knitting element of knitting machine. There are
various types of needles used in circular knitting machines as listed below:
Table 2.1: Different type of needles used in the circular knitting machines

Type of Needle Descriptions Line diagram

Latch

Beard

Compound

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FUNCTIONING OF NEEDLES

Table 2.2: Functioning of latch needle in circular knitting machines

FUNCTIONING OF SINKERS

Sinkers are thin metal plates positioned between the needles. They help in controlling the fabric

by holding the yarn in place and knocking over the loops during knitting. They also assist in

creating different stitch types.

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Table 2.3 Functions of sinkers

Functions Descriptions

Holding Down the Fabric

Loop Formation

Controlling Fabric Take-Up

Maintaining Fabric Tension

CAMS

Cams are crucial components in the operation of circular knitting machines. They guide the

movement of the needles, enabling the formation of stitches. The cam system includes:

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Table 2.4 Functions of cams in the circular knitting machines

Cams Descriptions

Running

Clearing

Up Through

Stitch

Guard

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 3

AIM
To study the driving mechanism and production (m/h and kg/h) of circular knitting machine.
THEORY

The driving mechanism of a circular knitting machine is fundamental to its operation, as it

controls the rotation of the cylinder and, consequently, the movement of the needles and other
knitting elements.

DRAW THE GEARING DIGRAM

Figure 3.1 Gearing mechanism of circular knitting machine

Production Calculation (Meters per Hour and Kilograms per Hour)

The production capacity of a circular knitting machine is influenced by several factors,

including machine speed, machine diameter, gauge, and the type of fabric being produced.

The machine capacity or performance in running m/hr is calculated in accordance with the
following equation:

𝑃𝑟oduction capacity
Speed of machine(rpm) × No of feeders on the machine × efficiency × 60 minutes 𝑚
= ( )
No of feeders per coourse × courses per cm × 100 ℎ𝑟

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Numerical 3.1. Calculate the length in meters of a plain, single sided or single- jersey fabric
knitted at 20 courses/cm. on a 30” diameter 22-gauge circular machine having108 feeds. The
machine operates for 8 hours at 36 rpm at 87% efficiency.
Numerical 3.2. Find out the production per shift in kg/hr for a single jersey from the following
data: Fabric width (Inches) = 53, Target areal density of fabric (g/m2) = 150, Yarn count (Ne)
= 26, Stitch length = 2.85 mm, Cylinder Diameter (D) = 25″, Cylinder Gauge (G) = 24, No. of
feeder = 75, R.P.M. of cylinder = 25, Time =8 hr, Efficiency = 80%
Numerical 3.3. Calculate the production in kg/h of a 90 feeder 30 inches diameter 24 gauge
knitting machine running at 30 r.p.m. & producing fabric of 100 GSM at 90% efficiency to 270
courses/dm & 180 wales/ dm
Numerical 3.4. It is desired to knit a plain single jersey fabric of 60” stable width & areal
density of 150 g/m2 from 30s Ne Cotton yarn. Calculate the loop length (mm) as also the cam
setting (mm) & diameter (inches) of the required knitting machine. What would be the
production in m/h & in kg/h, if the machine – revolving at 30 r.p.m. and equipped with 110
feeders – runs at 95% efficiency?
Numerical 3.5. Calculate the production in kg/h of a 30-inch diameter 30 rpm 24 gauge
machine equipped with 90 feeders knitting loops of 3.3 mm length to a course density of 170
per dm from 20 Tex yarn at an efficiency of 90%.
Numerical 3.6. A 200 g/m2 fabric, knitted from 30 Tex yarn to a loop length of 3 mm exhibits
180 courses /dm. If the fabric has been knitted on a 30” diameter 30-gauge machine, find out
the fabric width in meters

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 4

AIM

To study the rib knitting machine including arrangement of dial and cylinder needles, cam

system and driving mechanism.

THEORY
In a dial cylinder rib machine, there is one set of needles on the circumference of the vertical
cylinder and another set of needles on a horizontal dial. So, two sets of needles remain at the
right angle with each other. In dial cylinder machines the dial and cylinder rotate but the cam
systems with the feeders remain stationary. The dial needles get its motion from its butt which
is placed on the cam truck. This cam truck is formed by different cam placed on a cam plate.
During the rotation of the cylinder, cylinder needles moves vertically and dial needles moves
horizontally. Cylinder needles also get its motion from it. There is a cloth tale up roller which
also rotates with unison to dial and cylinder and fabric is wound on it.

DRAW THE SCHEMATIC VIEW OF RIB KNITTING MACHINE

Figure 4.1 Draw the schematic view of rib knitting machine

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 Figure 4.2 Arrangement of dial and cylinder rib knitting machine

KNITTING ACTION SEQUENCE

Action Description Line diagram

Clearing

Yarn feeding

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 Knocking over

CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE (RIB)

Machine specification
Machine gauge 14
Cylinder diameter 12
(inch)
Yarn feeder 8-10
Cam system Hardened and grinded
Needle High and low butt needle
Stitch density Arrangement to increase / decrease stitch density
Driving system timing belt system for carriage
Stop motion Yarn break, knot, yarn gauge, fabric drop, needle break, piece count, motor
overload/low voltage
Control system Micro computer system
Take down Uniform take down mechanism
Ac drive 1 HP ac drive (variable frequency drive)

GEARING MECHANISM OF RIB KNITTING MACHINE

A motor is needed to perform the action of creating the motion is the circular knitting m/c. This motor
drives the motor pulley & motor pulley gets the motion. Then the motor pulley drives the other m/c
pulley. The driver m/c pulley also drives the next m/c pulley. Thereafter, m/c pulley drives the bevel
gear & finally the bevel gear drives the cylinder gear.

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 Figure 4.3 Draw the gearing mechanism of Rib knitting machine

Exercise 4.1. Calculate the speed of machine pully as per the gearing mechanism

Exercise 4.2. How the Rib knitting machine work different than plain knitting machine?

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 5

AIM

To study the interlock knitting machine, including an arrangement of dial and cylinder needles,
cam system and driving mechanism.
THEORY

There are two sets of needles one is cylinder and another is dial. The dial and cylinder have
long and short needle arrangement in which one is long and another is short alternatively. The
needle is set opposite to the each other with long cylinder needle direct below at right angle to
that of short dial needle and vice-versa. Because of these there are two cam tracks consist of
long and short track respectively. Two courses of interlock structure: is made by two feeds.
One fed long needle and another fed short needle. The long needle in the dial is activated by
the cam track to knit, and the short needle in the cylinder is held in the rest position.

DRAW SCHEMATIC LINE DIAGRAM OF INTERLOCK KNITTING MACHINE

Figure 5.1. Schematic line diagram of Interlock knitting machine

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CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE (INTERLOCK)
S.No. Machine specification
1 Machine gauge 24
2 Cylinder diameter (inch) 12
3 Yarn feeder 8-10
4 Cam system Hardened and grinded
5 Needle High and low butt needle
6 Stitch density Arrangement to increase / decrease stitch density
7 Racking motorized racking Right to left and back to home position
8 Driving system Timing belt system for carriage
9 Stop motion Yarn break, knot, yarn gauge, fabric drop, needle
break, piece count, motor overload/low voltage
10 Control system Micro computer system
11 Take down Uniform take down mechanism
12 Ac drive 1 HP ac drive (variable frequency drive)

PARTS OF A CIRCULAR INTERLOCK KNITTING MACHINE AND THEIR

FUNCTIONS

Part Description Function

Legs
Cylinder
Dial
Needle
Cam Parts
Feeder Guide
Cam
Supply Package
Creel
Top Stop Motion
Anti-snarl Device
Tensioner
Positive Feeder
Knitted Fabric
Fabric Spreader
Fabric Withdrawal Roller
Fabric Winding Roller

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 Figure 5.2 Arrangement of dial and cylinder interlock knitting machine

KNITTING ACTION SEQUENCE

Action Description Line diagram

Rest position

Tucking position of
dial needle

Tucking position

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 Clearing position of
dial needle

Clearing position

Yarn presenting
position

Cast on position

Knock over
position

INTERLOCK CAM SYSTEM

In the below figure the cylinder and dial cam to produce one course of ordinary interlock fabric
which is actually work of two knitting feeders.

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 Dial cam system
Cylinder cam system

Cams Descriptions

Clearing cam (A)

Raising cam (1)

Dial knock-over Stitch and guard cams (B,

cams (2, 3) C)

Up throw cam (D)

Guard cam (4)

Guard cams (E, F)

Auxiliary (5)

Guide cams (G, H)

Guide cams (6, 7)

Swing type

clearing cam (8)

Motor to cylinder gearing system

In Interlock circular knitting machine, the motor gets power from electricity and motor pulley
connect to machine pulley with belts. Machine pulley is also connect to bevel gear, which is
also connect with cylinder gear as a result cylinder revolves and helical gear connect with bevel
gear, when motor revolves, by these pulley & gear, motion transfer to cylinder and dial as a
result cylinder and dial revolves.

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 Figure 5.3. Draw the gearing digram of interlock circular knitting machine

Exercise 5.1. Calculate the speed of machine pulley as per the draw gearing mechanism

Exercise 5.2. How the interlock knitting machine work different than rib and plain knitting
machine?

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 6

AIM
To study the passage of yarn through V-bed knitting machine.
THEORY
Motor gives drive to small pulley through the machine pulley. The small pulley and big pulley
are mounted on the same shaft. There is connected rod which is connected to the big pulley.
The connecting rod connected with the carriage which is laid on the needle bed.

Figure .1. Schematic line diagram of V-bed flat knitting machine

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COMPUTERISED FLAT KNITTING MACHINE WITH AUTOMATIC RACK AND
WINDER SYSTEM
S.No. Machine specification
1 Machine gauge 14
2 Bed width (inches) 52
3 Yarn feeder 6 feeder on 3 rails
4 Cam system tuck, miss, knit on front & rear bed
5 Needle high and low butt needle
6 Stitch density Adjustable on front & rear bed
7 Racking motorized right to left and back to home position
racking
8 Driving system timing belt system for carriage
9 Stop motion yarn break, knot, yarn gauge, fabric drop, needle break, piece
count, motor overload/low voltage
10 Control system Micro computer system
11 Ac drive 1 HP ac drive (variable frequency drive)

Exercise 6.1. How V-Bed knitting machine yarn passage is different than circular knitting
machine

Exercise 6.2. Which type of tensioner is used to control the yarn tension in the V-Bed knitting
machine, How the yarn tension control in the knitting machine

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 7

AIM

To study the different knitting elements including the cam of V-bed knitting machine.
Explain the functioning of different machine elements of V-bed knitting machine:
S No Machine parts Function
1 Yarn package

2 Front needle bed

3 Yarn guide

4 Needle spring

5 Tension spring

6 Fabric
7 Cymbal tension

8 Dead weighting system

9 Yarn take-up

10 Latch needle

11 Fabric comb
12 Yarn carrier

13 Back needle bed

Cam System of V-bed flat knitting machine

The cam system in a V-bed hand flat knitting machine is a crucial component that controls the
movement of the needles, which in turn determines the formation of stitches in the fabric.
Functioning of cam system

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 Raising cams (R)
Cardigan cams/ Tuck cam (C)
Stitch cams (S)
Guard cam (E)

Exercise 7.1. How V-Bed knitting machine knitting elements are different than circular
knitting machine

Exercise 7.2. Draw the needle movement during the loop formation in the V-Bed knitting
machine

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 8

AIM

To study driving mechanism and the production (m/h and kg/h) of V-bed knitting machine.
Theory

A device used to hold the knitting cams on a flat knitting machine. The carriage transverses the
cam along the needle bed to activate the knitting needles. The needle butts enter the traversing
cam system from the right during a left-to-right carriage traverse and from the left during a
right-to-left traverse. For each needle bed, there are two raising cams (R), two cardigan cams
(C), and two stitch cams (S).

Figure 8.1: Cam Carriage system in V-bed flat knitting machine

A (L) – Raising cam (left)

B (R) – Raising cam (right)

C – Tuck cam (left & right)

D (L) – stitch cam (left)

D (R) – stitch cam (right)

E – Guard cam

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1. The rest position: The tops of the heads of the needles are level with the edge of the knock
over bits. The butts of the needles assume a straight line until contacting the raising cams R
(R) because the leading stitch cams S and AS (L) are lifted to an inactive position. The lifting
action is an alternating action that always lowers the trailing stitch cams and raises the leading
stitch cams in each system as the traverse commences. This action prevents needles from being
unnecessarily lowered and strain being placed
on the old loops prior to the start up of the
knitting action.

2. Clearing: The needle butts are lifted as they

contact the leading edge of cams R (R), which
raises the needles to ‘tucking in the hook’ height
with the under surface of cams S (L) acting as
guard cams. The needles are lifted to full
clearing height as their butts pass over the top of
cardigan cams C (R) and C (L).

3. Yarn feeding: The yarn is fed as the needles

descend under the control of guard cam (G). The
required loop length is drawn by latch needle as
it descends the stitch cam S (R).

4. Knocking over: To produce synchronized

knocking over of both needle beds
simultaneously, the stitch cam S (R) in the front
system is set lower than the auxiliary stitch cam
AS (R), so that the latter is rendered ineffective.

Figure 8.2 Knitting action

Exercise 8.1: Calculate the production per day in kilograms V-bed knitting machine.

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 9

AIM

Preparation and analysis of fabric sample (rib circular, half cardigan and full cardigan in V-
bed) knitting machine.
(i) 1x1 Rib Stitch
 All the rising cam and all the lowering cam will be in action
 When the carriage travels from left to right, both the front and needles only will
form knit stitch.
 When the carriage travels from right to left, both the front and needles only will
form knit stitch.

(ii) Full Cardigan Stitch

For first course:

 Both cardigan cam at the back bed ( A&B) are out of action.
 All cam at front bed are in action.
 When the carriage travels from right to left, the front needles only will form knit
loop and back needle will form tuck loop.

For Second Course;

 Both cardigan cam at the back bed ( A&B) are out of action.
 All cam at back bed are in action.
 When the carriage travels from left to right, the back needles only will form knit
loop and front needle will form tuck loop.

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(iii) Half Cardigan Stitch

For First Course:

 All cams at the front and back are in actions.

 When the carriage travels from left to right, all needles will form knit loop like 1x1
rib.

For Second Course:

 Both cardigan cam at the back bed ( A&B) are out of action.
 All cams at the back beds are in action.
 When the carriage travels from left to right, the back needles only will form knit
loop and front needle will form tuck loop.

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Prepared samples

Rib circular Half cardigan Full cardigan

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 10

AIM

To study the effect of loop length in V-Bed knitting machine.

THEORY

The loop length in a flat knitting machine is influenced by several factors, including the cam
setting. The cam setting determines the movement of the needles and thus affects the loop
formation process. An increase in the stitch cam setting generally results in an increase in loop
length, which can lead to a rise in the length of fabric knitted in unit time.

Factor Impact on loop length

Yarn input tension
Knitted fabric take-down tension
Knitting velocity
Friction in the knitting zone
Machine gauge
Machine cam setting (a)
Yarn structure
Yarn linear density

Prepare a fabric on flat knitting machine with two different loop length and analyse the effect of
loop length on fabric geometrical properties and show their relation.

Parameters Loop length (A) Loop length (B)

Wales and courses per inch
Stitch density
GSM
Porosity
Curling
Tightness factor

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 11

AIM

To study plain, rib, and interlock knitted fabrics produced on circular knitting machine
Theory

Weft knitting is a method of knitting in which the yarn runs horizontally (from side to side)
across the fabric. There are several basic weft knitting structures, each with distinct
characteristics and uses. Here are the primary weft knitting structures:

1. Plain
2. Rib and
3. Interlock

Identification knitting structure

Structure

Type of knit structure

Course per inch
Wales per inch
Loop length
Comparison
Characteristics
End uses

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Geometrical Properties of Knitted Fabrics

The geometrical properties of knitted fabrics refer to the structural characteristics that define
their shape, size, and appearance. These properties are essential for understanding the
performance and application of different knitted fabrics.

Figure 11.1 Representation of courses and wales in knitted fabric

Geometrical Property Formula

Wales (WPI) and Courses per inch
(CPI)
Stitch Density 𝑆𝑡𝑖𝑡𝑐ℎ 𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 = 𝑊𝑃𝐼 × 𝐶𝑃𝐼
Yarn Count in Tex 𝑆𝑎𝑚𝑝𝑙𝑒 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑤𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 (𝑔𝑚) × 1000 𝑚
𝑇𝑒𝑥 =
𝑆𝑎𝑚𝑝𝑙𝑒 𝑦𝑎𝑟𝑛 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚) × 1𝑔𝑚
Loop length (l) in cm
Tightness Factor √𝑇𝑒𝑥
𝑇𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡𝑛𝑒𝑠𝑠 𝑓𝑎𝑐𝑡𝑜𝑟 =
𝑙 (𝑐𝑚)
Wale constant (Kw) 𝑊𝑃𝐶𝑀
𝐾𝑤 =
𝑙
Course constant (Kc) 𝐶𝑃𝐶𝑀
𝐾𝑐 =
𝑙
Loop shape factor 𝐾𝑐
Loop shape factor =
𝐾𝑤
Fabric Thickness
Fabric length 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ = 𝑛𝑐 × 𝐶;
nw is the number of course lines and C is the course
spacing
Fabric width 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ = 𝑛𝑤 × 𝑊

33
 nw is the number of wale lines and C is the wales
spacing
Fabric areal density 𝐴𝑟𝑒𝑎𝑙 𝑑𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦
𝐶𝑃𝐼 × 𝑊𝑃𝐼 × 𝑆𝐿(𝑚𝑚) × 39.37 × 39.37 × 𝑇𝑒𝑥
=
1000 × 1000
Porosity 𝑑
Porosity% = 1-𝑑𝐹 × 100; dF is the fabric bulk
𝑓

density (g/cm3) and df is the fibre density (g/cm3).

Exercise 11.1. Examine different geometrical properties of single jersey, rib and interlock
fabrics

Wales (WPI) and Courses per inch(CPI)

Stitch Density
Yarn Count in Tex
Loop length (l) in cm
Tightness Factor
Wale constant (Kw)
Course constant (Kc)
Loop shape factor
Fabric Thickness
Fabric length
Fabric width
Fabric areal density
Porosity

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 EXPERIMENT NO. 12

AIM
To analyse the weft and warp knitted fabrics
THEORY

To analyse the weft and warp knitted fabric of given sample. Listed the physical and structures

features of the knitted fabric as given below in the Table.

Table12.1: Structural features of the given fabric samples

Parameters Weft Knitted fabric Warp Knitted fabric

Courses per inch

Wales per inch

Yarn count (courses)

Yarn count (wales)

Tightness factor

Loop length

Areal density (g/m2)

Thickness (mm)

Pattern

Lapping plan

Type of knit

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REFERENCES

1. Banerjee, P. K. (2014). Principles of fabric formation. CRC Press.

2. Spencer, D. J. (2001). Knitting technology: a comprehensive handbook and practical guide

(Vol. 16). CRC press.

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