BROKPA

TRIBE
About Brokpa tribe
The Brokpa , sometimes referred to as Minaro, are a small ethnic group
mostly found in the union territory of Ladakh, India around the villages of
Dha and Hanu. Some of the community are also located across the Line of
Control in Baltistan in the villages around Ganokh.

Language: They speak Brokskat, an Indo-Aryan language related to

Shina spoken in the Gilgit region. Brokskat also has some similarities
to the Purgi language.

Religion: Primarily Vajrayana Buddhist, with a minority following Islam.

Lifestyle: Traditionally semi-nomadic pastoralists, herding yaks and

dzomos (yak-cattle hybrids) in the high mountains of the Himalayas.
They migrate between lower and higher altitudes depending on the
season.
According to the British Raj commentators,
the name 'Brokpa' was given by the Baltis to
the Dardic people living among them. The term
means "highlander". The reason for this is
that the Brogpa tended to occupy the higher
pasture lands in the valleys.

Facing the Modern World: Climate change

presents a significant challenge. Rising
temperatures and erratic weather patterns
disrupt traditional grazing grounds, forcing
the Brokpa to adapt their age-old practices.

Preserving a Legacy: The Brokpa take pride in

their distinct identity. Intermarriage with
outsiders is uncommon, reflecting their desire
to preserve their cultural heritage. However,
globalization and development pose threats to
their traditional way of life.
 Brokpa Clothing
The traditional dress of the Brokpa community is a blend of
historical influences, resembling the clothing styles of the
Kalash people in Chitral i.e. is a part of modern-day Pakistan.

The attire is tailored to enhance their unique physical features,

including a robust stature, tall frame, fair complexion, and
Indo-Aryan attributes. The clothing serves as a symbolic
representation of their heritage, emphasizing the community’s
commitment to preserving its cultural roots.

Traditional dresses have also enabled Brokpa people to protect

themselves from the gruelling weather, especially winter chill.
Livestock has not only provided food to the native people but
also wool for clothing.
Men’s Clothing
Goncha or Kos is a voluminous robe
resembling a coat made of wool, velvet,
cotton, polyester, or a combination of
these.
Goncha is worn by males, the everyday
wear is usually in black, grey, burgundy,
or earthen colour.
However, the goncha used during
weddings is brightly coloured and is made
of brocade, silk or velvet imported from
Nepal and Bhutan. While the young prefer
goncha made of lighter material, elders
still wear goncha made of wool to protect
themselves from the cold. Goncha is tied
around the waist using a skeyraks or belt
made of thick fabric.
Women’s Clothing
Pheran
The pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves,
which tend to be wide, made of either wool or jamewar, which is a
mixture of wool and cotton . A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch.
Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flowerlike
designed elements and styles.
The traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown. However, a
modern version worn by Muslims is knee-length, loose and stitched
on the front side are finishes.
Sulma
Sulma is the flowing robe worn by females. Sulma is brightly
coloured and is made of wool, brocade, velvet or silk. Females use
bright-coloured sash or skeyraks to tie around the waist. Sulma is
stitched in such a way that it accentuates into an elegant ball gown.
Sulma is often paired with tilin, a blouse made of either cotton,
nylon or silk. It is loosely fitted and has wide sleeves that can be
rolled up during the summer. It is plain or patterned with designs.
Sulma is worn by married women and is a sign that the women have
tied the nuptial knot.
Lokpa
lokpa are square capes worn by women around
their shoulders to cover the back. These
sheepskin-made capes are worn with the wool
facing inside to keep the wearer warm. Lokpais
only made of sheepskin, lokpa not only provide
warmth but also act as cushions while carrying a
heavy load on the back.
 Accessories
The Floral Headdresses of the Brokpa Community in
Ladakh - The Last Aryans.

The elaborate floral headdresses are seen in Ladakh,

Dha. It is said that Alexander's army stayed back and
nestled in these regions. Folklore says they came from
gilgit in Pakistan.

The women wear their adornment even when they

work in the fields. The headdress includes rows of
coins stitched together for orna­mentation, with some
dating as far back as 1890, and bright ribbons.

Women love flowers, and wear their perennial flowers

called Monthu Tho or Shoklo throughout the year. The
older Brokpa wear pearly button ear decorations, and
the women tie their hair in interlocked multi-stranded
braids similar to knotted dreadlocks.
The seven coloured ribbon wards any ailment caused
by the Sun or eclipse.

The silver brooches ward off planetary influences, the

peacock feather wards off paralysis.

Mountains, trees, water and flowers are considered

very pure. Thus every Brokpa household grows
flowers.

The flowers are considered auspicious and they also

signify love and prosperity in the community.

On top of their Kaftan, there are shells, coins, threads,

animal fur, silver jewellery hanging from their necks
and arms. Some of the jewellery has existed in their
families for many generations and there are no new
ornaments that are made or sold outside the
community.
BRAND-
NAZMA COUTURE
Nazma Couture, co-founded by Padma Yangchan and Jigmet
Disket in 2016, is a brand deeply rooted in the traditional textiles
and attire of Ladakh.

MISSION is to revive and contemporize traditional Ladakhi

clothing, which had been losing its place to modern western
fashion.

INSPIRED by various tribes and regions within Ladakh, such as

the nomads of Changthang, the Brokpas in the west, and
influences from the Zanskar valley and Tibet.
Materials:
• Nambu: Indigenous sheep wool .
• Khulu: Yak wool, known for its breathability and warmth .
• Pashmina: High-quality, hand-spun fiber sourced ethically

Techniques:
• Traditional dyeing methods like Thikma (resist-dyeing) using
natural dyes from local herbs and plants .
• Handloom weaving by local artisans

Sustainability and Ethics:

• Works with local women artisans and self-help groups.
• Uses natural, eco-friendly materials and dyes .
• Ensures fair wages and supports community development .

• Products:
• Modern adaptations of traditional garments like Kos and
Goncha.
• Bridal wear collection featuring traditional and contemporary
designs .
Namza Couture
AW/2023 Collection
The collection is a tribute to Brokpa tribe and captures the
essence of their love for nature and hues.

The Brokpas’ profound connection with nature is reflected in

their affinity for flowers.
This symbolism is the highlight of the range that incorporates
floral motifs.

The tribe’s dedication to detail and meaningful artistry has

influenced the collection.
Details of connection between the Brokpa Tribe’s
clothing and the collection-

Dyed Sappan wool (rare sheep wool)

Intricate floral embroidery
Silhouette direction (Ex- Monthu Tho jacket)
Vibrant colours
Striped patterns

The looks are completed with similar style of

jewellery and headgear