CompTIA A+ (220-1101) Installing Hardware & Display Components
CompTIA A+ (220-1101) Installing Hardware & Display Components
Table of Contents
1. Video: Course Overview (it_csap121_01_enus_01)
2. Video: Hardware and Device Replacement (it_csap121_01_enus_02)
3. Video: Hard Drive Migration (it_csap121_01_enus_03)
4. Video: HDD/SSD Replacement (it_csap121_01_enus_04)
5. Video: Wireless Cards (it_csap121_01_enus_05)
6. Video: Physical Privacy and Security Components (it_csap121_01_enus_06)
7. Video: Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) (it_csap121_01_enus_07)
8. Video: Organic Light-emitting Diode (OLED) (it_csap121_01_enus_08)
9. Video: Mobile Display Components (it_csap121_01_enus_09)
10. Video: Wi-Fi Antenna Connectors (it_csap121_01_enus_10)
11. Video: Webcams and Microphones (it_csap121_01_enus_11)
12. Video: Laptop Screen Inverters (it_csap121_01_enus_12)
13. Video: Digitizers and Touchscreen (it_csap121_01_enus_13)
14. Video: Course Summary (it_csap121_01_enus_14)
[Video description begins] Topic title: Course Overview. [Video description ends]
Hi, I'm Aaron Sampson, and I've been a professional in the IT industry since 1995. [Video
description begins] Your host for this session is Aaron Sampson. He is an IT Trainer/Consultant.
[Video description ends] With a primary focus on technical training, I can be found most of the
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time producing and delivering learning content centered around network infrastructure and
services.
I've also been involved with extensive practical implementations in a variety of operational
capacities, including architecture and design, deployment and implementation, administration
and management, and various other technology-based roles. As a computer technician, one of
your main responsibilities is often to troubleshoot and diagnose hardware and display-related
issues.
In this course, I'll explore how to recognize and install various hardware and display
components, including common hard drive types, replacement techniques and migration
processes. I'll also explore how to replace common components such as batteries, and random-
access memory. Next, I'll cover physical privacy and security components such as biometrics
and near-field scanner features, and you'll also discover how to differentiate between liquid
crystal display types and explore organic light-emitting diode displays.
From there, I'll explore several mobile display components and discover how to install and
configure Wi-Fi antenna connectors, webcams, microphones and laptop screen inverters.
Lastly, we'll examine the common features of digitizers and touchscreens. This course will help
to prepare learners for the CompTIA A+ Core 1, or 220-1101 certification exam.
After completing this video, you will be able to recognize how to replace common hardware
device components such as batteries, keyboards, and random-access memory (RAM).
recognize how to replace common hardware device components such as batteries, keyboards, and
random-access memory (RAM)
[Video description begins] Topic title: Hardware and Device Replacement. Your host for this
session is Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
So, to clarify, storage refers to the hard drive of a computer, which can be thought of as a file
cabinet, because it stores all of the data for your computer, including the operating system, the
applications that are installed, the configuration data and all of your personal files. So, using
that analogy, if the hard drive represents a file cabinet, then you can think of RAM as your desk.
So, forget computers for a moment, and just imagine that I'm working with paper-based files. If
I need a particular file, I'll go to the file cabinet, get the file that I need, and bring it back to my
desk, and I'll work on it there. So in short, system memory represents what you're working on
right now but it doesn't just apply to files.
For example, if you need to work in a word processor, then all of the files required to load that
application are also retrieved from the hard drive and loaded into memory. But when that
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application is closed, those files are no longer needed and they can be removed from memory
and reloaded the next time they're needed. Now, that all said, memory is still physical
hardware just like a hard drive, but the primary difference is the architecture of that hardware.
Most traditional hard drives use magnetic storage on a spinning disk, whereas memory is just a
collection of chips with no moving parts, so accessing data from memory is very much faster
than accessing it from the hard drive. But this is why you load the data you need from the hard
drive into memory. While that data is in memory, it can be accessed very quickly, but the issue,
however, is how much memory your system has.
Again, coming back to the analogy of a desk, if your desk is very small, then working on many
files at the same time is going to become more difficult, but if your desk is very large, then you
can work on many files more easily.
Back in the early days of computing, when the amount of memory in a computer was much
lower than what we see today, if your computer was running slowly, you might have heard
people suggest to you that you should install more memory to speed up your computer. While
this was the net result, if you did, that's not really the correct way to think about it. Rather, not
having enough memory slowed your system down because your desk, if you will, was just too
full at the time, so you were continually having to load data in and out of memory, if you were
trying to work on multiple files at once.
Another key difference between memory and storage is that memory is volatile, meaning that
it requires power to retain its data, so if the system completely failed or the power went out,
whatever was in your memory, was lost. Hard drives or storage are static. They don't require
power to retain data.
So, that said, you might think if it's possible to store data statically, why use volatile memory?
Why not just make memory non-volatile? Well, in fact, you can. And this is the technology
that's used for devices such as flash drives and solid state drives. But to this day, for the RAM in
your computer, non-volatile memory is still more expensive than volatile.
Now, when it comes to laptop computers, it's still the same type of physical chip, but laptops, of
course, are much smaller than traditional desktop systems, so the type of physical chip in a
laptop is referred to as a small outline dual inline memory module or SODIMM.
A DIMM chip on its own would be what you'd find in a desktop. The small outline quite literally
refers to the fact that it is a physically smaller chip due to the limited space within a laptop.
They're usually about two and a half to three inches in size, depending on the make and model,
with a varying number of pins and notches, depending on the model of the laptop into which
they're being installed.
The pins are the actual point of contact with the system's motherboard, and then notches are
to ensure that the chip is aligned properly and held securely in place. So, I mentioned earlier
how you could install additional memory into a system, effectively upgrading that computer,
but you could either get more memory, or keep the same amount but get faster chips, or in fact
you could do both.
But before you do so, you should always consult the motherboard documentation, to confirm
that the memory can be upgraded. Almost every system will allow you to do this, but if you're
dealing with a very outdated system, I should point out that it can be difficult to find
compatible memory modules these days. The specifications of individual memory chips change
quite often, so be sure to determine how much you're currently using and the maximum
amount of supported memory within that system.
There are many vendors and manufacturers of memory modules, but in most cases it comes
down to the specifications, and as long as they match, modules from different vendors can be
used, and in most systems, the capacity of each module does not have to match. For example, if
your system currently has two physical modules, each one with a capacity of two gigabytes for
a total of four, but there are also two more available slots, then you could install two mark chips
of four gigabytes each for a total of 12.
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Now, when specifically upgrading or replacing the memory module on a laptop, first of all, turn
off and disconnect the power supply so that you don't trip over the cord or pull the unit right
off your desk or table. Then in most cases, on the bottom of the unit there is usually a door that
can just be removed to access the memory.
You might need a small screwdriver, or it might just have a release clip, but the memory module
itself is usually inserted on a bit of an angle, then just press down slightly to engage the clips
that snap into place, and hold the module securely in its socket. From that point, just make sure
that all modules are seated correctly and securely, then simply replace the compartment door
to complete the upgrade. So, turning to video cards, these are the devices responsible for
producing the video image and sending it to your monitor.
Now, if you're talking about a desktop, then a video card really is just that. It's a card that
essentially looks like a small version of a motherboard, but it sits in a slot on the actual
motherboard and is usually held in place with screws or perhaps with clips, but it's a very
replaceable unit.
You could just remove the cover, take out the existing card, and install a new one, if you were
looking to upgrade. But in a laptop, you generally don't see a video card. It's usually built right
into the motherboard, so it's not really a replaceable component unless you replace the entire
motherboard. But most laptops also have external outputs so that you could send a signal to a
secondary monitor or to a projector.
But in most cases, this is just a secondary interface of the same card, but it depends on the
make and model. Older model desktops often only came with a single video card, with a single
interface. So, if you wanted to connect a second monitor, you had to install another video card.
Some desktops, however, had an integrated video built right into the motherboard, and a video
card, in which case you could hook up a secondary display without needing an additional card.
But the built-in interfaces usually didn't offer particularly high performance. These days, newer
video cards offer very high performance and have multiple interfaces, all on a single card. High
performance video cards are found most commonly on customized gaming systems, or perhaps
specialized graphic design systems.
In terms of batteries for laptops, these generally are very replaceable, but you should always
refer to the manufacturer's documentation to ensure that you get a compatible replacement
unit. But in most cases, batteries are very easy to replace. Most laptops will have some kind of a
latch or a release button, usually on the bottom of the unit, that releases the battery entirely.
Then simply insert a new one into the existing compartment.
In some cases, you may encounter a lid with a screw, but it would still just be a matter of
removing the existing unit and replacing it with a new one. Just be sure to test the new battery
first, by powering up the laptop without the power cord, to ensure that it's running from the
battery. The CPU or the central processing unit is effectively the brain of your computer, and
every computing device has some kind of CPU.
As for upgrading or replacement, as always, you can consult the documentation for the specific
make and model of your motherboard, to determine if the CPU could be upgraded. But in many
cases, replacement might be your only option. For example, in most desktop systems, you could
usually replace the CPU if it was damaged or faulty, but it might not be upgradeable. In other
words, you could remove the old one, but you had to replace it with a new one with exactly the
same specifications.
In most cases, when a CPU is upgraded by the manufacturer, the physical size of the chip
changes, so it simply wouldn't fit into the existing socket. This is by no means a rule though.
There were some CPUs that simply offered upgrades in speed which could be installed into
existing systems. But you just had to make sure that your motherboard supported it.
In addition, some motherboards may have more than one physical socket, so a second CPU
could be installed, but those were usually only found in specialized or higher-end computers,
such as network servers. If you can upgrade, then you may also have to adjust the configuration
of your system to ensure that it realizes the increased capabilities of the new processor, such
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as its clock speed and the optimal operating temperatures, to ensure the fan engages
appropriately.
The system board, or what's commonly referred to as the motherboard, is a replaceable unit,
but this can be a complicated issue, unless you are replacing a faulty unit with the exact same
make and model. But even then, it's still an involved process because almost every other
component needs to be removed before the system board can be taken out.
That's not to suggest that the system board of a laptop can't be replaced, but in terms of the
time, the effort, and the cost, it just might not be worth the investment. On that note,
specifically with respect to laptops that is, the power connection or the DC Jack may also
warrant replacement of the entire laptop itself.
Now again, that's not to suggest that a faulty DC Jack can't be repaired, but in most cases it
would require soldering to repair it as the existing jacks are almost always integrated onto the
system board. So, you would have to desolder the old one and solder in a new one. And if you
apply too much heat to the wrong area, you could damage the entire system board itself, in
which case you're no further ahead.
And finally, the body and or the frame for both desktops and laptops can be replaced, but again,
check with the documentation first, especially for laptops, but the frame is the internal metal
chassis where you mount all of the other internal components, including the system board.
It's typically measured by width, depth and height, and then once all of your components have
been mounted, there's a plastic cover to close everything up, and complete the aesthetic
appearance. But the plastic cover itself is usually composite material, usually fairly strong and
lightweight, so that it doesn't add much weight to the unit.
For desktop computers these days, there are many options available, at least for customized
systems, but for a laptop, this would be something that is likely only available from the
manufacturer themselves, or through an authorized vendor. Now, there are certainly many
other components when it comes to computers, but what we've covered here addresses some
of those which are most required in virtually every system, so be sure to familiarize yourself
with them as best as possible, both for study and for practical purposes.
After completing this video, you will be able to describe how to perform hard disk drive (HDD)
and solid state drive (SSD) migrations.
describe how to perform hard disk drive (HDD) and solid state drive (SSD) migrations
[Video description begins] Topic title: Hard Drive Migration. Your host for this session is Aaron
Sampson. [Video description ends]
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In this presentation, we'll take a look at solid state drives or SSDs, which for all intents and
purposes are the successor to traditional magnetic hard drives, which were the standard type
of storage in virtually every computer going back maybe ten or 15 years.
Now, both a traditional hard disk drive and a solid state drive perform the same function in that
they act as the primary storage mechanism for all of your data, your operating system, your
applications and your configuration. But where a hard disk drive used a spinning platter to
store data, a solid state drive has no moving parts. It uses what's known as non-volatile flash
memory for storage, and non-volatile means that it does not require power to retain its data.
In an earlier presentation we discussed RAM, or what is often just referred to as memory. But
standard memory does require power, so clearly that wouldn't be appropriate for your
permanent storage. So non-volatile simply means that your data will remain intact without
power. Hence, your data can be stored permanently. But in terms of benefits, since there are no
moving parts, solid state drives offer a much faster access time because the data does not have
to be located on a spinning disk.
It's just a collection of chips. So each piece of data that is written has an address, and the
system just has to access that address to retrieve the data, so it's much faster. The lack of
moving parts also results in greater reliability, and they require less power. They also tend to
produce less noise, and they're usually physically smaller as well so they take up less space in
the device, which, by the way, makes them an ideal choice for laptops.
Now, that all said, they tend to be more expensive than their traditional magnetic counterparts,
but the performance gains usually outweigh the difference in cost, and that's becoming less of
an issue these days anyway, as they become more and more common. But it would still depend
on how many drives you need to purchase and how they're going to be used. For example, in
any single computer, it would almost always be worth it to go with a solid state drive.
But for a large network storage array that houses possibly hundreds of drives, that sort of
application would certainly cost a lot more, and in some cases, it might not be worth the extra
cost. For instance, if you're looking to create a very large archive where data just needs to be
retained, but it isn't accessed very often, then the performance characteristics aren't usually a
concern. So, traditional storage might be perfectly fine in this case. If your existing computer
has a traditional magnetic hard disk drive, then you can certainly upgrade to a solid state drive.
And in terms of performance, it can result in a significant gain, particularly during system boot
and accessing large files. Just as an example, some desktop systems that I used to support
going back several years ago took almost two minutes to fully boot into the operating system.
My current laptop with a solid state drive boots in about 12 to 15 seconds. And the upgrade
itself isn't particularly difficult.
Simply remove the old disk drive and physically install the new solid state drive. Make sure to
connect all the power and data cables, then just reinstall the operating system. Now, that said,
you do need to make sure that whichever device you're looking to upgrade will support the
solid state drive.
Sometimes they do use different connectors, or in the case of a laptop, have a different type of
physical bay to store the drive, so you do need to make sure that you are able to upgrade. Now,
granted, that's a somewhat generalized description of what needs to be done. There are
certainly some considerations to take into account when it comes to performing a clean
installation of your OS.
For starters, you need to make sure that you can set up the operating system using the original
source files for that operating system, and you need to make sure that they don't reside only on
the drive that is being removed. For example, on my laptop, there is no optical drive of any kind.
So of course, there are no disks included that would contain the installation files. To fully
restore my system, I have to boot into a recovery partition where the original factory default
image resides.
So, since I don't have any disks, I need an alternate method to install the OS, such as by using a
bootable USB drive. In addition, all of the applications that were on the old drive will have to be
reinstalled onto the new, and of course, all of your personal files will have to be backed up to a
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separate medium, and restored after you have completed the fresh install. Now that all said,
another option for migrating to a solid state drive is cloning your old hard drive onto the new
one.
This is a very fast and easy option that uses specific cloning software, which will literally
duplicate every single bit of data from the original drive onto the new drive. So, no
reconfiguration or backing up of data needs to be done. The source drive itself can also remain
fully intact, so if something goes wrong, you can simply go back to the original hard drive, and it
would be as if nothing happened.
However, the target solid state drive must be large enough in terms of capacity to hold
everything from your original drive. If that's not the case, cloning won't work, so be sure to take
note of the data usage overall, because in general, the increased cost of solid state drives is
mitigated somewhat by decreasing their capacity. In other words, traditional hard drives tend
to have more storage capacity, so you could be using up more data on your existing drive than
the solid state drive can accommodate.
So, be sure to double check the capacity requirements. On that note, if you discover that you
need to free up some space, you can certainly delete files that you no longer need or remove
any old and or unused applications. You could also install a fresh version of your operating
system onto the new solid state drive, make that the primary boot drive through your
motherboard's BIOS configuration, and then keep your older hard drive as secondary storage
for your personal files or applications so that data does not have to be transferred to the new
drive.
That said, if you want the performance gains of the solid state drive, then you should likely just
use the older drive for purposes such as backing up data or using it as an archive for very large
or infrequently accessed files. Now, all of this certainly applies to a laptop as well, and
upgrading a laptop to a solid state drive can result in a significant boost in performance, but
things could be a little more difficult when it comes to a laptop, since it's likely that you
probably only have room for one drive, unless your laptop comes with a spare slot, which some
models do.
So, in terms of cloning, you would have to have some kind of external housing to hold the target
drive, which could require additional time and effort depending on the speed of your
interfaces, such as the USB architecture, and you might also require additional tools and
adapters to facilitate the data transfer. But once again, the increased performance of a solid
state drive would, in most cases, make these additional requirements well worth the time and
effort.
Lastly, a few other considerations with respect to cloning. If you don't have immediate access
to the new solid state drive, the cloning process itself can still be done. In fact, it can be
performed at any time, and the resulting image can simply be stored on any kind of external
drive or perhaps to a network server. Then, once you have the new solid state drive, you can
just replace the old with the new, then restore the image that was created earlier onto the new
drive.
But just be mindful of how much time elapses between the original cloning and the restoration,
or, perhaps more importantly, if any changes are made to the original drive after cloning. For
example, if you clone the original drive on Monday in anticipation of receiving the new drive on
Friday, but then you or someone else installs a new application or creates a new file on the
original drive on Wednesday, then the cloned copy created on Monday, of course, will not
contain the new application or file, so it won't be present when you restore the cloned image
onto the new drive.
So, if you expect any kind of time delay, then just be sure that either no changes are made or
that those same changes are manually performed onto the new drive after the image has been
applied. In short, solid state drives are certainly the better option when it comes to the
performance of your system. But be sure to consider all of these factors, and I'd suggest that
above all else, be sure to leave yourself with the option to revert back to your original drive, if
for any reason the upgrade doesn't work. In other words, don't erase or discard your original
drive until you're certain that the new drive is working and that it contains all of the data you
need.
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After completing this video, you will be able to list the steps required to successfully replace
HDDs and SSDs.
[Video description begins] Topic title: HDD/SSD Replacement. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this video, we'll take a look at the process of replacing an existing system drive or specifically
the drive that houses your operating system in the event that your original drive is failing, or
perhaps it has just become outdated and you want to install a better performing drive. Now,
we'll address both traditional magnetic drives and solid state drives, but in terms of the process
itself, it doesn't really matter which type of drive you're dealing with, provided your system is
compatible with the new drive being installed.
Now, first and foremost, before undertaking any kind of drive replacement, you should be
certain to back up all data, up to and including keeping the original drive intact until the entire
replacement or upgrade process has completed and been tested. In short, always leave
yourself a means to revert back to what you were using before you started. From that point,
you should also create or obtain a recovery disk, which provides you with the means to boot
the computer even in the absence of a standard hard drive.
For example, if you're removing your existing system drive and replacing it with one that has
never been used before, then, of course, there is no data on that drive at all, therefore, there's
nothing to boot from. A recovery disk is essentially a mini operating system environment that
can be used to prepare the new disk to receive an operating system.
If your system does not have any kind of optical drive from which to boot, such as is the case
with many newer laptops, then you can also install the recovery environment onto a bootable
USB drive, and boot from that. This may require that you get into the BIOS or the setup of the
system itself to specify that the USB device should be first in the boot order, or at least before
the hard drive. If you aren't certain as to how to do that, you can check with the documentation
from the manufacturer for either your laptop or for the system board in a desktop.
Now, another option if you don't have a recovery disk is to create one from some other existing
system. For example, a Windows 10 computer allows you to create one from the recovery
option in control panel. Or I'd say there's also a good chance that you could download one from
the Internet. Then, of course, just be sure that you have all necessary tools. For example, if
you're working with a desktop, you will likely need a standard Philips screwdriver to remove
the cover and the drive mounting screws.
But if you're working with a laptop, you might need the much smaller version of the Philips
screwdriver, often referred to as a jeweler screwdriver. With respect to the process itself, be
sure to power down and remove the plug regardless of whether it's a desktop or a laptop. And
it's also recommended to use an anti-static mat and a wristband to avoid possibly damaging
any components from electrostatic discharge.
Then remove the external casing, locate the hard drive and disconnect the power cables and
data connectors from the drive itself. Then remove the mounting screws on both sides, and the
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drive should just slide out from its bay. Now, this will vary depending on the manufacturer or
the model. For example, some systems may have customized clips or clamps that hold the drive
in place, in which case there might not be any screws at all.
But in that case, the clips simply need to be released to remove the drive from its bay. Once the
old drive has been removed, simply insert the new drive into its place and mount with screws,
or use the built-in clips, attach the power and data cables and close the computer case. In
essence, just do each of the previous steps in reverse. Again, there will undoubtedly be some
variation among the various manufacturers, but in general, this process will be fairly
consistent.
If you're working with a laptop, then the process itself is still fairly similar, but there will be
differences in the physical units. Most notably, a laptop hard drive typically does not have any
cable connections, and you usually don't have to remove the entire case to access the existing
drive. In most cases, there is just a recessed compartment that is accessible from the underside
of the unit.
You might need to remove a screw to remove the compartment cover, but once you access the
compartment itself, the drive usually just has a tab with all of the contacts on it, which slides
into the slot that is built into the motherboard, which then makes all the connections, including
the power. So, it's in many cases a simpler process than replacing the hard drive on a desktop
computer. But there may still be one or more screws that hold the drive in place.
This ensures that the drive doesn't become disconnected from its socket, especially since
laptops are much more prone to being dropped or bounced around, for example, in the
overhead baggage compartment of an airplane. Lastly, if you are replacing an existing solid
state drive, then it's important to know the form factor that you currently have to ensure that
you're replacing it with a compatible type. On most desktops or laptops it's usually a 2.5 inch
form factor, which has become the standard for most devices.
But for devices such as tablets or any kind of ultra thin or mini device, you might encounter the
mSATA form factor or mini Serial ATA. The ATA stands for advanced technology attachment,
which is only about one eighth the size of the 2.5 inch. And in the smallest devices, you might
encounter the M.2 or M2 form factor, which is often described as being about the size of a stick
of gum.
Again, these would only be found in devices that are very constrained for space, so it would be
unlikely that you'd encounter them in a desktop or a laptop. Ultimately, before you proceed
with a replacement, just be sure to verify what you have now and that your device is
compatible with what you want to use as the replacement drive. And if there's any uncertainty
as to what can be used as the replacement drive, always consult the product documentation or
contact the vendor if possible.
In this video, you will learn how to differentiate between wireless cards/Bluetooth modules,
cellular cards, and mini peripheral component interconnect express (PCIe) cards.
differentiate between wireless cards/Bluetooth modules, cellular cards, and mini peripheral
component interconnect express (PCIe)
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[Video description begins] Topic title: Wireless Cards. Your host for this session is Aaron
Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this presentation, we'll take a look at some options for installing or replacing some various
wireless components, along with some of the architectures that you might encounter. So,
beginning with a USB Wi-Fi adapter, these will allow any device with a USB interface to
connect to a wireless network, without needing any kind of cables, including power, and
without having to install any additional internal hardware, and without needing any upgrade to
your system.
Now, not only does this give you the ability to connect your device to the wireless network, the
USB device itself is, of course, portable, so you could use it on any device. For example, if you
have a desktop computer at home, you could use the adapter to connect to your home Wi-Fi.
But if you have a laptop that you use at work, you could just take the adapter itself with you
and use it with the laptop at work, or anywhere else for that matter, such as when you're
traveling.
Now, that said, most newer laptops will have Wi-Fi built in, but some older models did not
come with built-in Wi-Fi. But again, it doesn't have to be a laptop. Any device with a USB
interface could use the adapter. Another very common wireless connection method is
Bluetooth, which is more commonly used to connect peripheral devices to your computer, to
create what's sometimes referred to as a personal area network or a PAN.
For example, you might use Bluetooth to connect your smartphone to your laptop, along with
other devices such as mice or keyboards, audio speakers, printers, music players, gaming
controllers and many others. Now, most laptops these days will likely have Bluetooth
capabilities built in. But if you have an older model, or if you wanted to add Bluetooth to a
desktop, you can install a Bluetooth adapter. If it's an older model laptop, then you might
encounter an architecture known as PC card, which was formerly known as PCMCIA.
And this was an architecture that utilized a slot on the edge of the laptop, into which a device
that was about the size of a credit card was inserted. Although they were quite a bit thicker
than a credit card, but the newest iteration of that architecture is known as ExpressCard. But
even though ExpressCard was the newest iteration, even that is likely not available on newer
systems, as again, Bluetooth would be built in on most models these days.
But going back to the older models, you might also encounter a USB dongle, which of course
connects to the computer using its inherent USB interface. But then the other end would be a
specific connector for the type of Bluetooth adapter you wanted to install. Now, those
architectures just mentioned are all accessible externally on laptops. As mentioned, there was
literally a slot on the edge of the device into which you inserted the card.
But some older model laptops and some desktop computers might have an internal
architecture known as Mini PCI. The PCI stands for peripheral component interconnect, but it
would be a slot that was fairly square in its shape, but the interface was directly mounted on
the motherboard of the system, and used a 124-pin edge connector, meaning that the device
being installed was simply inserted into that interface.
So, as long as the device itself used the Mini PCI architecture, it didn't matter what type of
device it was. So you could install anything into that slot as long as the architecture matched.
However, Mini PCI has been succeeded by Mini PCI Express, which is a 54-pin edge connection
with a more rectangular shape. But the same rule applies. Any device using that architecture
can be installed into that connector, and it should work.
Another option is to use cellular connections, which allows you anywhere access to high-speed
Internet using the same type of cellular service that you have for your smartphone. Depending
on the device, you might have mobile broadband connectivity built in, such as with some
tablets, or it could be in the form of a USB stick that can be used across many devices,
sometimes referred to as rocket drives or rocket sticks.
You just plug them in like any other USB device, and in most cases, your operating system will
recognize and configure it automatically, and it will connect you to the same network provider
that you use for your smartphone, or to whichever provider the adapter itself is subscribed.
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These types of connections are particularly useful for when there is no available Wi-Fi, such as
when you're on a long trip in a car or a train, or outdoors, such as in a park or camping.
As long as you can pick up on the cellular service then you have access to the Internet on that
device. So, as far as replacement is concerned, if it's a laptop, then always begin by turning off
the laptop and disconnect all power, including the battery, remove the wireless card
compartment door if applicable, or just eject the existing card if it's using the PC card or
ExpressCard architecture. Remove any mounting screws if present and remove the adapter
itself.
Then insert the new device and perform all previous steps in reverse. On desktop systems,
however, it's not uncommon for a wireless card to have an antenna. Because the desktop can
draw more power and because they aren't as mobile, the antenna can help to increase the
range of the connection, but if there is an antenna, then it's also likely removable.
In most cases, it just screws on to a mount on the card itself, so simply detach the antenna,
remove the old card and install the new one, making sure to attach the new antenna if
applicable. Then, of course, install any vendor-provided software or drivers and test the device
to make sure it's working as expected. Again, I do want to stress that most newer systems
these days; both laptops and desktops, will likely have most of these wireless connection types
built in, although cellular would generally be something that you would have to request, except
for something like your smartphone.
But many environments are still using devices that might only have some of them, or possibly
none of them. But with these methods, their connectivity capabilities can certainly be
expanded, which will likely translate into a longer life span for the unit itself, which can save
your environment's significant cost, as compared to upgrading every single device.
Upon completion of this video, you will be able to describe physical privacy and security
components, such as biometrics and near-field scanner features.
describe physical privacy and security components such as biometrics and near-field scanner
features
[Video description begins] Topic title: Physical Privacy and Security Components. Your host for
this session is Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this video, we'll examine some of the physical privacy and security components that are
available to help to improve the overall level of security for your devices, particularly mobile
devices such as laptops, tablets and phones, which can make these devices more difficult to
compromise when compared to using measures such as only something like a password or a
PIN.
So, we'll begin with biometric security devices, which require some kind of additional input to
grant access based on physical characteristics of the user, such as fingerprint readers, facial
recognition, iris scanners and voice recognition. So, beginning with a fingerprint scanner, this is
perhaps one of the more common types of biometric security usually found on a laptop, but
also many tablets and smartphones, but it's usually in the form of a small pad onto which your
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finger is placed, and the device will then scan and store the unique pattern of your fingerprint
in a secure internal database.
Since every fingerprint pattern is unique to the individual, it can then be used in place of or in
addition to a password. If you're only using the fingerprint to gain access, from the perspective
of the user this makes accessing the device much faster and easier, and if you're using both the
password and the fingerprint, then it makes the device that much more secure because both
are required.
But it should be mentioned that the added security certainly doesn't mean that fingerprint
scanners can't be circumvented. For example, an intruder could physically force you to swipe
your finger, to gain access, and if that's the only thing required to gain access, then they don't
even need to know your password. Facial recognition is, of course, exactly as it sounds. The
system can identify and use unique markers, shapes and structures of the user's face, to gain
access.
But of course, this requires that the device has some kind of camera, either built in or
externally installed. But the structures that are identified are then converted into
mathematical data, and only your particular facial image will allow access. Now, when
configuring facial recognition, be mindful that factors such as aging, glasses, hats, or anything
else you might be wearing can affect the reliability of the service, and just like fingerprint
scanners, they are by no means infallible.
Again, an intruder could physically force you to present your facial image to the device, or
depending on the quality of the device itself, it could be possible that a photograph fashioned
into a mask could succeed in fooling the scanner. An iris scanner might not be as common, and,
if it is being used to gain access to the device, it's probably in the form of an external device.
But iris and or retinal scanners generally aren't used to gain access to computing devices.
Rather, you would likely see them being used to control physical access to a secure room or a
facility, and I should mention that iris scanners and retinal scanners both perform the same
general function, in that they use the unique patterns and structures of the user's eye to grant
or deny access. But an iris scanner uses the external pattern of your eye or that which is visible
to any observer, whereas retinal scanners use the internal pattern and usually require that the
user be much closer to the scanning device.
Again, while they certainly can improve security, just like fingerprint scanners and facial
recognition, an intruder could still force you to present your eye to the scanner to gain
unauthorized access. Another option is voice recognition, although among the biometric
security measures we've covered so far, this method would likely be the least common,
primarily because it's the easiest to circumvent.
Like the other methods, the computing device will sample characteristics of the user's voice to
grant or deny access. But an intruder who is skilled at imitation could easily gain access, and in
some cases, using a recording of the original user's voice, might also succeed in gaining
unauthorized access. Beyond the biometric security features, there are additional options,
including Near Field Communications or NFC, which is an extension of RFID or radio
frequency identification. But the range is intentionally very short.
Quite literally a matter of inches so that intruders can't pick up secure information from a
distance. Common applications of NFC include quickly synchronizing data between devices,
such as contacts between your laptop and your phone, and if you have a bank card or a credit
card that has been issued within the last few years, then it is very likely that you have made use
of NFC to make payments; a feature many of us simply know as tap.
At any point of sale that supports tap, all you have to do is hold your card in very close
proximity, usually within a few inches, and the reader will pick up the information embedded
within the chip on the card, to process payment without any prompts to the user. Again, while
certainly very convenient to the user, it should be noted that this type of payment application is
perhaps the easiest by far to circumvent.
An intruder need only steal your card to be able to make purchases because there's no PIN
required when using tap. That said, most financial institutions implement limits on the amount
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that can be spent using tap, to ensure that any losses are as small as possible. Plus, most
payment or banking apps these days allow you to lock the card yourself, once you realize it has
been lost or stolen.
So then, NFC might raise the question, why do we need NFC if we already have Bluetooth?
Well, for starters, Bluetooth requires that the communicating devices be paired with each
other, whereas NFC does not. Requiring pairing would effectively defeat the convenience of
using NFC, for something like making payments.
And Bluetooth, while still very short in range can still carry up to around 30 feet on average,
easily far enough for an intruder to obtain secure information, whereas NFC devices just about
need to be in contact with each other to communicate. And due to that very short range, NFC
is much less prone to interference from other radio sources as compared to Bluetooth.
In short, each of these security measures and or communication methods have their pros and
cons, just like anything else, but they have all led to much more convenient access methods and
easier methods of communication. Just always remember that no means of security is 100%
effective, so it's still important to make sure that you remain diligent with your devices, and
protect your data as effectively as you can.
Learn how to differentiate between LCD types including in-plane switching (IPS), twisted nematic
(TN), and vertical alignment (VA).
differentiate between LCD types including in-plane switching (IPS), twisted nematic (TN), and vertical
alignment (VA)
[Video description begins] Topic title: Liquid Crystal Display (LCD). Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this presentation, we'll talk about LCD or liquid crystal displays, which have effectively
become the standard for laptop computers and flat panel monitors, and most certainly have
become the successor to the older cathode ray tube or CRT monitors, which used to be about
the only type of display available for desktop computers if you go back about 20 or 25 years,
primarily because they were very bulky and cumbersome by comparison to an LCD monitor.
Typically they were as deep as they were wide across, so, they took up far more desk space, and
larger monitors would be quite heavy as well, easily four to five times as heavy as modern LCD
screens. So, by the time LCD started to become more cost effective, CRT monitors all but
disappeared. In fact, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the younger viewers may not have ever
seen a functioning CRT display. But the primary issue with LCD displays when they were first
released was the cost.
They were much more expensive than CRT monitors, but as the technology became more and
more prevalent, the cost began to drop and I would estimate that perhaps around 2005 to
maybe 2007, CRTs were just about gone in most workplaces and even most home
environments.
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Now, not only did the cost of LCD monitors come down, but the technology continued to
improve as some early implementations suffered from distortions of the image based on the
viewing angle, which still happens to a degree even today, but far less than what it used to.
Today, LCD screens produce very high resolution and very clear images. They're cost effective,
and they take up far less space than their predecessor.
Now, LCD is a technology that is based on using a liquid crystal material that is effectively
sandwiched between two clear plastic sheets with a light source behind everything to provide
illumination. The liquid crystal material is then divided into many small squares, each one
representing a single pixel of the image. Each square on the display is independent of the
others, and each is capable of 32-bit color depth, meaning that a total of two to the power of 32
colors can be displayed, which itself is a very high number; over 16 million, in fact.
But it's not just the total number of colors that help to produce higher quality images. It's the
use of those colors to produce features such as gradients or transition, shadows,
transparencies, and various other lighting effects that also improve the quality. These squares
are more commonly referred to as pixels, as I had just mentioned a moment ago, which, by the
way, is a contraction of picture element, in case you've ever wondered where that term
originated, and the display resolution is generally referenced by how many pixels wide and how
many pixels high the display can support.
For example, you might see a display resolution listed as 1680 by 1050. This indicates that
there are 1680 independent rows of pixels arranged across the screen from left to right, and
1050 rows of pixels arranged from top to bottom. Now, you may also see values such as DPI,
which stands for dots per inch, and it quite literally is just a count of how many dots, or in this
case pixels there are in a linear inch.
But DPI is typically used more commonly with printed images as opposed to the resolution of
your screen. The more applicable term with respect to a display is PPI, which is pixels per inch.
In both cases, the more pixels that are used to create an image, the higher the quality you'll get.
But it should be pointed out that there is a bit of a break point, if you will, in other words, in
terms of what the human eye can detect.
At some point, increasing the PPI or DPI value for something like a saved photograph will really
only have any visible effect if you greatly zoom in on the image. So, if you're satisfied with the
quality of an image, such as a photograph, increasing its DPI or PPI value will really only result
in making the file larger.
With respect to the background light source, all LCD screen types still rely on some kind of
backlighting for their illumination. So, there are two primary methods of providing that light,
which are cold cathode fluorescent light or CCFL, and light-emitting diodes, or LED.
CCFL lighting relies on a standard fluorescent light behind the display, but some models may
use more than one to help produce more even distribution. But if there are multiple lights, then
each one requires its own inverter, which converts DC power into AC.
Now, as mentioned, this can help to produce more even lighting, but the more inverters you
have, the more power the unit will draw and the heavier it will be, and it might also produce
more heat. By contrast, LEDs do not require inverters. They can run directly from the DC
power of the motherboard and are therefore more efficient and environmentally friendly.
The greater efficiency also means less energy waste in the form of heat. So, the common
question then, is why would anyone use CCFL over LED? Well, as is the case with many
technological advances, CCFL was cheaper, but these days the cost of LED has dropped and
has pretty much become the standard.
Looking at some of the performance measurements for LCD monitors, the response time is a
measure of how quickly any given pixel can respond to a change, which is typically measured in
milliseconds. Now, that begs the question of how to define a change, particularly since there
are over 16 million colors. So, in this context, change is defined by the two extremes of going
from completely black to completely white, then back to black.
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In current models, a respectable response time should be somewhere around ten milliseconds,
although for users such as gamers or maybe graphic designers, values as low as one millisecond
would be desired. But as you might expect, the lower the response time, the higher the cost.
Lastly, LCD in itself is not a single type of technology. There are several different iterations,
each with its pros and cons.
So, first off, we have in-plane switching or IPS, super place to line switching or PLS, vertical
alignment or VA panel technology, and twisted nematic or TN panel technology, and transistor
translator logic or TTL. Now, quickly going through each one of these, in-plane switching
typically is considered to have the best color accuracy and viewing angles and overall image
quality of most LCD displays.
But the subsequent technologies would usually offer some enhancements to specific
performance considerations. For example, super plane to line switching was originally
developed by Samsung, and it is very similar to IPS but it tends to be a little bit brighter, and
also claims to increase the viewing angle to reduce the amount of image distortion as you
increase the angle. But it could require more power due to the increased brightness.
Then, vertical alignment is somewhere in between the twisted nematic and the IPS. It does
offer wider viewing angles and better quality, but it had slower response times. Twisted
nematic then does offer faster response time, making them the preferred choice for gamers,
but they didn't have quite the range in terms of viewing angles and contrast ratios, and they
also draw more power.
Lastly, TTL is actually more of a protocol or a processing method that describes a monitor that
accepts digital signals only as opposed to digital and or analog, such as an RGB or red green
blue display, also known as component video.
And in most cases, it also used lower voltages, so TTL processing is not very common in today's
more demanding displays. All told, in most of today's business environments, it's likely that just
about any LCD monitor would be more than sufficient for standard office activities. It's really
not until you get into the very specific applications of gaming, animation, 3D rendering or
graphic design, that you'd start to see the higher end models. So in most cases, for most people,
it usually just comes down to finding a satisfactory model for the right price.
After completing this video, you will be able to provide an overview of organic light-emitting
diode (OLED) display types.
[Video description begins] Topic title: Organic Light-emitting Diode (OLED). Your host for this
session is Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this video, we'll examine one of the later technologies in use for displays: organic light-
emitting diodes, or OLED, which is a very thin display that does not require any kind of
backlighting. More specifically stated, each pixel of the image provides its own lighting and can
therefore control its own luminosity, which can result in higher picture quality overall.
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But we'll get into the specifics in just a moment. So, to get started, OLED technology uses
organic compounds to produce light through what's known as electroluminescence, or more
simply stated, passing electricity through those components so that they produce light. This is
accomplished by placing the organic components within what's known as a thin film transistor,
or TFT, which itself is then placed between an anode, or a device that produces a positive
electric charge, and a cathode, which produces a negative electric charge.
In short, the electric charge would flow from the anode, through the OLED material, to the
cathode. And as the electricity passes through the organic compounds with varying
parameters such as voltage and amplitude, the various levels of light and color would be
produced. That said, there are two different types of OLED: passive-matrix OLED or PMOLED,
and active-matrix OLED or AMOLED.
And like most things in technology, each approach has its pros and cons. So beginning with the
passive-matrix, this uses an approach that controls the image processing sequentially, one line
or one row at a time, without using the thin film transistor, or the TFT, which itself contains a
storage capacitor, which we'll come back to in a moment.
So, by not using the TFT, most of the pixels in any given line are actually off most of the time,
resulting in an image that is not as bright. So to compensate, higher voltages are used, making
them less efficient than the active-matrix.
And due to the higher voltage, over time, the organic compounds themselves tended to
degrade, which decrease the lifespan of the display. So, none of that makes the passive-matrix
seem like a good choice. But of course, they were cheaper to manufacture. Active, however,
does use the TFT and its associated storage capacitor, which can maintain the state of any
given pixel line, producing a brighter and more consistent image.
But of course, they were more expensive. Now, that all said, once again, like most things in
technology, the cost of active-matrix devices has come down since its inception, and most
OLED devices these days are likely using the active-matrix, with the passive-matrix only being
used on specialized screens with lower resolution requirements, such as MP3 players, GPS
devices or other dedicated task devices.
So then, if we compare OLED to an LCD screen that uses standard LED, if you will, the primary
difference is that OLED can control the lighting on a pixel by pixel basis, whereas an LED-lit
LCD screen relies on backlighting or on some smaller device's edge lighting. So OLED can offer
a degree of dexterity and control that simply isn't possible with LED LCD.
But as we so often see, there are still pros and cons of each. Most notably, the color
capabilities. Most LCD screens these days can produce exceptional color quality, but it does
still depend on the underlying technology being used, such as in-plane switching and vertical
alignment, both of which offer better color than something like twisted nematic, which tended
to look washed out, especially as the viewing angle increased.
OLED displays don't really have any issues with viewing angles due to the fact that each pixel
produces its own light. But early OLED devices especially, had difficulty with color accuracy
and keeping them realistic to the eye. And while that specific aspect has improved over time,
even the latest models can have problems with color volume, which refers to difficulty in
maintaining even an accurate color saturation as brightness increases, meaning that for very
bright scenes, the brightness simply overwhelms the color saturation so colors don't look as
sharp.
Now, as for the viewing angle, as just mentioned, OLED displays by comparison to LED will
generally offer a higher quality image even from significant viewing angles, because each pixel
produces its own light. And because OLED displays are very thin and the pixels are very close
to the surface.
So, for something like a TV in your living room, it means that many viewers spread out in
different spots won't lose out on image quality. LCD screens can vary, but again, it does depend
on the underlying technology. For example, as just mentioned, in-plane switching or IPS
significantly improve upon this issue over technologies such as vertical alignment.
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And in fact, IPS has become the most prominent technology for LCD screens, so the viewing
angle itself is much less of an issue these days than it used to be. Plus, you also have to consider
the application. Several people watching TV spread out within a room is really one of the most
prevalent examples of when the viewing angle would really be an issue.
For general computer use, users are going to be directly facing their display virtually 100% of
the time, which of course, negates the issue on its own. It might be slightly more of an issue
with handheld devices such as phones or tablets, since you might not always hold them at the
perfect viewing angle. But again, the improvements made by the IPS technology will in most
cases overcome those angles as well.
Something else to consider when comparing display types is certainly the overall brightness,
and this tends to be where LED and LCD win out over OLED, particularly for outdoor use for
devices such as phones and tablets, where you might be competing with direct sunlight. And
it's also something to consider when viewing high dynamic range or HDR video.
Now this is something that is typically more of a concern for TVs, but handhelds these days are
continually promoting their video performance, so it's something to consider with phones and
tablets too. The standard units of measure when it comes to brightness are usually either in
nits or lumens. The nit refers to the brightness of a candle per square meter, whereas a lumen
is just more of a defined standard that doesn't really relate to any day-to-day object like a
candle.
But in both cases, the higher the value, the brighter the display. Finally, contrast refers to the
ratio of dark to light, and this is where OLED tends to win out. Most notably due to the fact
that since each pixel of an OLED display emits and controls its own light, up to and including
emitting no light. In other words, the pixel can be entirely turned off.
With an LED LCD display there is always a back or an edge light, so particularly when it comes
to reproducing a black pigment, a pixel that emits no light produces a true representation of
black, as opposed to a pixel that is just doing its best to block out the backlight. Contrast ratios
for top-end LED LCD screens these days might be somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000 to
one, meaning that the brightest pixel is 1000 times brighter than the darkest.
But with OLED, since a pixel can emit no light at all, the ratio is only limited by how bright the
pixel can get, so it can almost be thought of as an infinite ratio. But of course, in practical terms,
there is certainly a limit as to how bright the pixel can get, but in short, LED LCD can never get
as dark as OLED can.
Ultimately, the display qualities that anyone should look for are going to depend on many
factors, but most notably, it should come down to the type of device and how it's being used.
For example, you should not look for the same qualities in a gaming monitor, as you would for a
phone. They just aren't used in the same manner. So, just be mindful of the application when
determining the best type of display for your needs.
Upon completion of this video, you will be able to list common mobile display components,
including touchscreens, webcams, and microphones.
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list common mobile display components including touchscreens, webcams, and microphones
[Video description begins] Topic title: Mobile Display Components. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this presentation, we'll discuss some key considerations with respect to mobile display
components, in particular such as those found in laptops, tablets and phones, beginning with
the fact that most mobile devices use LCD technology for their displays, which immediately
offers several advantages, including the fact that it's a lightweight technology, which is a
primary concern for a device that you carry around with you.
And LCD offers low power consumption, which again is ideal for devices that run on battery.
And perhaps best of all, it's relatively inexpensive, which keeps the overall cost of your devices
down. Now, I realize that statement is relative as well, but particularly for some of the younger
viewers I can assure you that this is the case. As an example, about 20 years ago, I purchased a
high quality business laptop that costs me over 3500 dollars.
The laptop I'm using right now, which I bought only two years ago, is also a very high quality
business model, and it costs me about 1700 dollars. So, prices have certainly come down
despite the vast technological improvements that have occurred. But of course, there are
always disadvantages as well. For instance, LCD relies on backlighting or edge lighting for its
illumination.
Since this light is always on when using the device, there really is no true representation of
black, which can become challenging if your job is in graphic design or requires any kind of
color matching. And if you start to lose the backlight through standard wear and tear, then the
image itself may become difficult or even impossible to see, rendering it unusable, even though
everything else in the unit may be functioning perfectly.
Now, that said, you may be able to replace the screen or the failed light, but that can be costly
and you might be without the device for an extended period, which tends to be an
unacceptable situation for most mobile users. So, it often results in replacing the entire device
itself just for the sake of the failed light.
Now, the problem with color representation can be overcome by using an organic light-
emitting diode or OLED display. OLED does offer more reliable reproduction of colors because
OLED does not use a backlight. Each pixel emits its own light, so, for example, when needing to
reproduce black, the pixel can simply turn itself off and emit no light, which is effectively what
black is. The absence of light.
However, OLED tends to be more expensive than LCD, which would of course drive up the cost
of the device. And they tend not to be used in mobile devices such as laptops because the
organic components can degrade over time, leading to decayed images still being displayed on
the screen. Plus, some OLED devices tend to require more power than LCD, which, of course,
can drain the battery more quickly.
That all said, it should be mentioned that you may find OLED used in many handheld devices,
such as phones and tablets, because most of the time those devices are off, at least in terms of
the display, which helps to extend the lifespan of the organic components and, of course, the
battery life.
Another key component of a mobile display is, of course, the touchscreen capability, and these
are certainly available on many laptops, but in today's environment, it's much more of a
concern when using our phones and tablets. The underlying component of a touchscreen is
known as a digitizer, which interprets the taps of our finger into digital commands that can be
accepted as input.
Virtually every touchscreen these days accepts your finger as the input mechanism, but many
devices also support a stylus or a digital pen, if you will, which is far more accurate, particularly
if you need to draw, sketch or use cursive writing. Now, while this next component really
doesn't play any part in how you view the display, it is worth mentioning the antenna, because
if you're working on the display of a device, particularly a laptop, you're bound to encounter
one or more antennas as the screen is where the built-in antennas are placed.
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This is because on a laptop, the screen is the upright or vertical component, so it's the highest
point of the device, if you will, and therefore the best placement option for ensuring the best
quality signal. Now, there may also be multiple types of antennas for different types of
communications that are supported, such as Wi-Fi, Bluetooth or cellular. So again, the
antennas certainly don't play a role in the quality of the display itself, but they are still
components of the display unit.
On a similar note, webcams are another component that have no direct effect on the display,
but they are still often a component of the display. So again, if you're servicing the display of a
device such as a laptop, you're also bound to encounter a built-in webcam. Most every laptop
these days will have a webcam as a standard option, but some older models may not have one,
so it will depend on the age of the unit.
Now, despite the name webcam, many models also have a built-in microphone to handle the
audio, so that you can conduct video calls and conferences without any additional hardware.
And of course, remember that if you are servicing a device with a built-in webcam, if you have
to do any software reconfiguration such as reloading the entire operating system, you will
likely have to reinstall the driver for the webcam to restore its functionality as well.
Lastly, like the webcam, there may also be a built-in microphone also located in the display of
your unit. Now, of course, we did just mention that if there is a built-in webcam then it could
have its own microphone also built in. But it will depend on the make and model. In some cases,
the webcam and the microphone will be separate objects, or there may be both a built-in mic
with the webcam and a separate microphone that is dedicated for audio use. Again, it will
depend on the model.
If it is built in, it should be mentioned that it might not be in the display. In fact, it could be
integrated into just about any part of the case, but the screen is still the most common because
it catches your voice at the most direct angle, if you will, and the built-in mics are usually more
than adequate for general purpose activities such as teleconferencing, but they would not be
suitable for creating content such as recording music or doing any kind of sound engineering.
Dedicated devices would be required in those instances, but they would almost never be
included as a built in or standard component. So again, while several of these display
components don't relate to the quality of the image you see, they are still components of the
display unit of many mobile devices. So, for servicing technicians in particular, they need to be
taken into consideration when working on mobile devices.
Upon completion of this video, you will be able to recognize mobile Wi-Fi antenna connectors
and their placement.
[Video description begins] Topic title: Wi-Fi Antenna Connectors. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
would have built-in wireless capabilities. But many older models did not come with built-in
antennas, so you needed some kind of adapter card or an external device that you could install
to connect to the wireless network.
Now those adapter cards or external devices would have the antenna built in to the unit itself,
but with integrated Wi-Fi an antenna is still required. But clearly, we don't see any metal wires
sticking out of our laptops, so where is the antenna?
As it turns out, for a laptop, the antenna is actually a wire that is wrapped around the outer
edges of the display, which is also a part of the laptop that generally has less wear and tear,
which in turn provides greater durability for the antenna because, as mentioned, the antenna is
just a thin wire. Now, of course, we open and close the lid fairly often, but the body of the
laptop bears the repeated force of typing on the keyboard, tapping on the touchpad, pressing
the power button on and off.
And it's also where people tend to rest their hands. So by placing the antenna in the screen, it's
less likely to become damaged. In addition, in terms of that placement, it also helps to increase
the range of reliable wireless communication and provides better performance, because, if you
imagine the radio waves of the wireless network approaching you, they would do so just like
the waves on an ocean in that they travel on a more or less horizontal plane.
So, if you're standing waist deep in the ocean and you're hit by a large wave, the fact that you're
standing perpendicular to the motion of the wave means that you're going to take much more
of a hit, if you will, and you'll most certainly be knocked right off your feet. If, however, you start
to swim, now you're in a horizontal plane as well, and the wave will affect you far less.
Likewise, the screen of your laptop is in the perpendicular position relative to the radio waves
and can therefore catch much more of the signal. If the antenna was in the body, it would be in
the parallel position relative to the waves, and the signal strength and quality would be much
lower. That said, while the built-in antenna is obviously desirable, both in terms of functionality
and aesthetics, it is still a small wire that is shielded by the exterior case, which can result in
poor performance.
So, in terms of mitigating those issues there are some things that you can try, including
installing an antenna booster, which is essentially just a much larger antenna that can be added
or installed in place of the existing antennas of your Wi-Fi router, or you might consider a range
extender, which is a separate device, that acts as a relay and or an amplifier.
If, for example, you're 100 feet from the router and you can only pick up on a weak signal, the
range extender could be placed at maybe the 50-foot point. It's configured to intercept the
signal, amplify it and send it along. So, once configured, now you're only 50 feet from the
extender and you're receiving an amplified signal. And of course, try simply relocating either
your device or the Wi-Fi router to a different location if you can.
For example, in a home environment, if the Wi-Fi router is in the basement and you're on the
third floor, you might not ever be able to get a strong, reliable signal because you're simply too
far away with too many walls and floors between you. Ideally, the Wi-Fi router should be
placed as close as possible to the location of the users. Lastly, while it is rare, the built-in
antenna can fail, which will typically result in losing your connectivity either intermittently or
entirely.
And in terms of dealing with a failed antenna, it usually isn't a component that will entirely
break. The wire itself, while not particularly thick, is protected by an outer plastic sheathing.
But the leads can become disconnected due to the continual wear and tear on the device itself.
In that event, reconnecting and reseating the cable leads should correct the problem.
But if general wear and tear was the cause of the failure, then it's likely that those leads will
just become disconnected again at some point in the future, depending on the age of the device
and its overall condition. But in most cases, rather than attempting to repair the built-in
antenna, an external USB adapter might be a much easier solution, although it would require
the user to always have that device with them, to allow for wireless connectivity.
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But that said, depending on the age of the laptop itself, a new external adapter might also
perform much better than the built-in unit, if it is getting to the point where it's simply out of
date.
So overall, when it comes to wireless networking, antennas and adapters, there are several
options available to ensure the best possible performance. But in most cases, for newer
laptops, the built-in wireless capabilities should remain quite stable, provided the unit is well
maintained.
After completing this video, you will be able to describe mobile webcams and microphones.
[Video description begins] Topic title: Webcams and Microphones. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this presentation, we'll take a look at installing and working with webcams and microphones,
which have become standard integrated components in most new laptops these days. But
older models might not have either, nor would most desktop systems, although it's not
uncommon for new desktop monitors to have them built in.
But suffice to say that separate external devices are still very common. Even if your system
does have integrated components, you still might opt for external due to their higher quality.
These days, at least in the business world, the most common implementation would be for
Internet video communication or video conferencing, which of course can also be done at
home or really anywhere.
But in terms of the performance considerations, there are two main values of concern for the
webcam, the first being the overall image quality, and this would be the same value as you
would see for a digital camera or the camera in your phone typically expressed in megapixels.
And for high definition quality, you would want to see at least two million or two megapixels,
which provides for 1080p resolution. The other consideration is the frame rate, which refers to
how many still frames can be captured per second. The higher the frame rate, the smoother the
video will be.
A fairly standard value for good performance is 30 frames per second, but the higher the frame
rate, the more data that must be processed. So, if perhaps you're in a video conference and
you're finding that communications are cutting out or the image is freezing, it could be due to a
poor link over which you're trying to send too much data.
So, in some cases, you might want to lower these values so that less data is being sent, which
could improve the overall performance. Most video conferencing applications allow you to
specify these values so that they can be set appropriately for the speed of your connection.
So, as mentioned, most newer model laptops and many models of desktop monitors will have a
webcam integrated into the unit, which will likely be more than adequate for most users. But
for any system that does not have an integrated unit, of course, an external USB webcam can
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be installed. These give you several advantages, including portability; in other words, the
device is not tied to a specific computer, they can be used on pretty much any computer,
whether it's a desktop or a laptop, Windows-based or Mac-based, or anything else that has an
available USB port.
And they often come with their own attachments or accessories, such as a tripod for mounting
the unit, or perhaps a clamp to mount the device on the top of your monitor. Also, in many
cases, an external device could support higher quality than an integrated unit. Plus, they're
relatively inexpensive and much easier to replace if they break or fail, as compared to an
integrated unit. Similarly, most laptops that have a built-in webcam will also have a built-in
microphone.
Now, they're usually very small in size and typically embedded somewhere within the exterior
casing. But the location will vary depending on the make and model. Now, an integrated
microphone does make video chatting a little more natural, as compared to using an external
microphone, because you don't have to position the mic close to your mouth, which would, of
course, block out some of your face in the image. But since the mic is a little farther away in
that case, they also need to be a little more sensitive, which means that they can tend to pick up
a lot of extra noise that might be happening in the background.
In addition, most integrated microphones, while certainly adequate for most users, don't offer
especially high quality. So, there are certainly external alternatives that are available, including
headsets, which will have the headphones and the microphone combined, and higher-end
models, in fact, do produce very high quality audio, and in fact, that's what I'm using right now
to make these recordings.
If you are only concerned with the microphone, however, there are many options for USB
external mics in a wide range of quality options, up to and including those that would be
appropriate for recording professional quality music. So, it simply depends on your needs when
choosing an external mic.
About the only other consideration for an external microphone might be the drivers or apps
required for your specific operating system, although if either of these are required at all, they
would usually be included with the unit or downloadable from the vendor's website. And of
course, just be sure that you have an available USB port with the appropriate architecture, for
example, many newer devices might be USB-C, and if your current computer is a little bit older,
it might not support USB-C, and depending on the model, it might not be USB at all.
It might use a standard PC audio jack, which is usually available on most systems by default.
But if you have a customized desktop, you would need to be sure that either your motherboard
or your sound card has the appropriate jacks available.
Most use an eighth inch jack, also known as a mini-plug or a mini jack, but some might use a
quarter inch jack, in which case you might need a mini plug adapter, which converts the quarter
inch connector to an eighth inch. Like any external device, just be sure that your system can
support it and that you have the available connections before you purchase. Other than that,
most webcams, microphones or headsets are very easy to install and use.
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In this video, you will learn how to define the role of an inverter in an LCD screen.
[Video description begins] Topic title: Laptop Screen Inverters. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this video, we'll discuss some lighting technologies that are used for flat screens and other
types of display devices, including both standalone monitors and those used for laptops. And
we'll also talk about what's known as an inverter, but we'll come back to that shortly. So, first
off is the cold cathode fluorescent light, or CCFL. This is a lighting technology commonly used
in LCD monitors, some neon signs and even some internal computer case lighting, which is
quite common in custom gaming systems.
But this type of lighting is used primarily with LCD monitors because they do not produce their
own light within the liquid crystal display material. They need an additional backlighting
source, which is the job of the CCFL. It's basically just a standard fluorescent light, the same as
you might see in the ceiling of an office building, just a greatly scaled down version.
Now, while you obviously require the CCFL for any LCD screen, it is an extra component. In
addition, it also requires the inverter to power it, so again, we'll talk about the inverter shortly,
but basically with the inclusion of the inverter, it typically means that LCD screens tend to
weigh a bit more and they also tend to draw more power.
As for the light itself, as mentioned earlier, it's essentially just a greatly scaled down version of
fluorescent lighting, typically implemented as a small tube, which is able to provide adequate
lighting while not raising the ambient temperature too much, which helps to prevent
overheating and subsequent damage to other components.
Now, depending on the size of the screen, smaller units could usually get by with just a single
CCFL, in conjunction with a diffuser, to help spread the light out more evenly. And the CCFL
itself is typically located in either the bottom or the top of the screen itself; possibly both in
larger screens, with some of the largest models possibly having more than two.
Maybe there would be one located on either side as well. But bearing that in mind, and I
mentioned that I'd come back to this, for every CCFL you had, you needed another inverter.
The inverter is simply the component that provides power to the CCFL.
It's called an inverter because it can convert the DC power of something like a laptop battery,
to AC power, which is what the CCFL itself requires. So, if you had more than one CCFL and the
associated inverters, of course, the overall weight is going to increase, as will the ambient
temperature. Now, of course, manufacturers would be entirely aware of this, and they would
be sure to stay within safe operating limits.
But it's something to consider if you're trying to assess damage to a unit that requires
servicing. But for many newer model screens, LED has become the standard, superseding the
CCFL as the primary lighting technology. LED stands for light emitting diode, and it's
implemented as a semiconductor device that emits visible light when an electric current is
passed through it.
And as mentioned, they have now become the standard lighting technology for most monitors
and laptop screens. LED is also the core technology behind fiber optic data transmission and
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many types of indicator lights, so you'll almost certainly hear the term used in many
applications.
But for monitors and laptop screens, LED provides several benefits, beginning with a much
lower power requirement, because LED lighting does not need an inverter, which by default
also decreases the weight. They're very efficient, which translates into producing very little
heat. Due to that fact, they also have a very long life span, and they produce good quality light.
So it's easy to see why LED has superseded CCFL as the core lighting technology. Like any
component of a computer or a laptop, though, it really is just a matter of knowing what you
have in terms of servicing existing units, and or knowing what you want when buying new. But
these days, I doubt you'd be able to find many new models that still use CCFL technology, but
they might certainly still be present if you're acquiring used equipment.
Upon completion of this video, you will be able to describe features of digitizers and
touchscreens.
[Video description begins] Topic title: Digitizers and Touchscreen. Your host for this session is
Aaron Sampson. [Video description ends]
In this presentation, we'll take a look at the role of a digitizer with respect to a touchscreen.
Now, a digitizer itself is really any type of device that can produce a digital output from a non-
digital or analog input. Now, a quick side note here, the term analog can apply to many things,
and this is because it can really refer to anything that isn't digital.
But the term itself is drawn from the word analogous, meaning that the input you're dealing
with produces some kind of signal that is similar or analogous to the original. As an example,
when you speak, you produce sound waves. But if you want to record your voice, you would
speak into a microphone.
Inside the microphone, there is a very thin metal diaphragm that vibrates in response to the
sound waves you produce, and those vibrations are then passed into the recording device as
variations in electrical current. And it's those electrical currents that are similar, or analogous,
to the original sound waves themselves. So, that's an example of using an analog recording.
However, those analog signals can also be converted into digital information, for more reliable
storage and reproduction.
Using the voice recording as an example, if you've ever tried to make a copy of a copy of a copy
with that analog information, each iteration almost always degrades until eventually the
information just isn't usable anymore. But with digital information it's all just a series of ones
and zeros which can be identically copied in theory an infinite number of times, with no
degradation at all.
So, any kind of digitizer simply performs the process of digitization or converting analog
information to ones and zeros. So, back to the topic at hand, for a touchscreen, the digitizer
accepts the analog information of where something like a stylus pen, or in most cases just your
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finger, is placed on the screen. The precise location is interpreted using standard X and Y
coordinates.
Then those coordinates are passed to the digitizer to be converted into digital information,
which can then be used by the processor to produce the desired output. These days,
touchscreens are, of course, ubiquitous. Almost everyone has either a phone or a tablet or
both, which are almost entirely controlled by a stylus or your finger. And it's essentially
because of the digitizer that users can perform such operations as writing or drawing directly
on their screens, or placing a cursor within a paragraph, select and highlight, copy and paste, or,
of course, load an app.
There are any number of operations that can be produced as output, but all of them are
dependent on the digitizer to provide the appropriate input. That all said, touchscreens are
certainly not unique to phones and tablets. Many standalone monitors are equipped with
touchscreen interfaces, as are many models of laptop screens, and they're almost always used
where mice and keyboards just aren't appropriate or available, or where they would simply be
less convenient, such as information kiosks or point of sale systems.
In terms of format, so to speak, there are typically two implementations: built-in, which would
be something like your smartphone or your tablet, or a standalone or dedicated task system
such as a kiosk or a point of sale. There really isn't much of a difference in the technology itself,
and both implementations would still require a digitizer.
But the touch screen of a dedicated device such as a banking ATM or a kiosk, would have far
fewer output options, since the device itself is only designed for a very limited range of
operations. In both cases though, when it comes to servicing, you could likely replace just the
screen itself in the event of damage or a malfunctioning unit. All in all, touchscreens most
certainly offer a lot of convenience. But of course, they do require some simple maintenance,
such as regular cleaning, and particularly in the case of mobile devices they're quite easy to
damage if dropped or stepped on, so it's recommended to use a protective case as well to
reduce the likelihood of damage.
d0cd09d5-5c68-4de5-b948-63796e789003
[Video description begins] Topic title: Course Summary. [Video description ends]
So, in this course, we've examined how to recognize and how to install and configure various
hardware and display components. We did this by exploring replacing hardware and devices,
including hard disk drives and solid state drives, migrating from hard disk drive to solid state
drives, wireless card types, Wi-Fi antenna connectors, webcams and microphones.
Physical privacy and security components, LCD and OLED, mobile display components and
laptop screen inverters, and digitizers and touchscreens. In our next course, we'll move on to
explore how to set up and configure mobile device accessories and network connectivity.
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