Volume 3 Issue 1 Article 7

Digital Transformation in Swimwear Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study

of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods using Adobe Illustrator
Soha Rafek Ibrahim Afifi
Assistant Lecturer at the Faculty of Arts & Design- MSA University Master’s Degree in Applied Arts- Helwan University
Cairo, Egypt, [email protected]

Wafaa Abdel-Rady Qurashi

Professor of Apparel Design and Technology at the Faculty of Applied Arts- Helwan University. Cairo, Egypt

Bahira Gebaly Gabr

Professor at the Apparel Department at the Faculty of Applied Arts- Helwan University and O6U Cairo, Egypt

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Recommended Citation
Afifi, Soha Rafek Ibrahim; Qurashi, Wafaa Abdel-Rady; and Gabr, Bahira Gebaly () "Digital Transformation in Swimwear
Pattern-Making: A Comparative Study of Traditional Vs. Digital Methods using Adobe Illustrator," Journal of Art,
Design and Music: Vol. 3 : Iss. 1 , Article 7.
Available at: https://doi.org/10.55554/2785-9649.1028

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ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Digital Transformation in Swimwear Pattern-making:

A Comparative Study of Traditional Versus Digital
Methods Using Adobe Illustrator

Soha R.I. Afifi a,*, Wafaa A.-R. Qurashi b, Bahira G. Gabr c

a
Department of Fashion Design, The Faculty of Art and Design, October University of Modern Science and Arts, Cairo, Egypt
b
Apparel Design and Technology, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University, Cairo, Egypt
c
The Apparel Department, Faculty of Applied Arts, Helwan University and O6U, Cairo, Egypt

Abstract

The fashion industry is going through a major transformation with the advent of digital technologies. This study
presents a comparison of the traditional and digital methods of making swimwear patterns using Adobe Illustrator. The
study aims to identify the benefits and challenges of using Adobe Illustrator as a digital tool for patternmaking. The
study compares traditional and digital methods’ efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability by studying and applying the
basic principles of drafting swimwear patterns. The results show that digital methods using Adobe Illustrator can
significantly reduce production time, increase pattern-making accuracy, and improve the sustainability of the production
process. The study also highlights challenges in adopting digital tools, such as the need for specialised skills and the
high cost of software and hardware. The paper concludes with designing teaching curricula in swimwear patterns using
Adobe Illustrator to prepare fashion students for digital transformation in the industry, especially emerging companies
in the field of fashion. The findings of this study provide valuable insights to fashion designers, educators, and industry
practitioners on the potential benefits and challenges of adopting digital tools in clothing pattern-making, and the need
to develop appropriate educational curricula to prepare future professionals for digital transformation in the fashion
industry.

Keywords: Patternmaking, Swimwear, Adobe illustrator, Digital patternmaking

Introduction Pattern-making is an important part of the

garment-making process that requires high
skill and precision. It is the process of creating a
T he fashion industry is constantly evolving,
and with the advent of digital technolo-
gies, it is experiencing a major transformation
template or a blueprint that serves as a guide
for cutting and sewing the fabric into a final
(Sourcing at Magic, 2023). One of the key areas garment. Traditionally, pattern-making is a
where this transformation is particularly evident manual process, where designers or pattern-
is in apparel pattern-making. In recent years, makers use paper, pencils, and rulers to create
digital tools have become increasingly popular in patterns. However, with the advent of digital
the fashion industry, allowing designers to create technologies, designers have started using
patterns more efficiently, accurately, and sus- digital tools to create digital patterns (Veblen,
tainably (Datta and Seal, 2018). 2012).

Received 15 June 2023; accepted 21 September 2023.

Available online 3 January 2024

* Corresponding author at: Department of Fashion Design, The Faculty of Art and Design, October University of Modern Science and
Arts, 57 N-Zone, Hadayek Al Ahram, Giza, 12556,Egypt.
E-mail address: safifi@msa.edu.eg (S.R.I. Afifi).

https://doi.org/10.55554/2785-9649.1028
2785-9649/© 2024 Helwan University. This is an open access article under the CC-BY-NC-ND license (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).
70 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

These digital tools can improve the efficiency Literature review

of the apparel pattern-making process and Traditional methods in apparel pattern-
reduce errors. However, it is important to note making
that these tools require specialized skills and
training and may come with a high cost for Apparel patternmaking, also known as
software and hardware. Therefore, most of pattern drafting, is the process of creating a
these digital solutions may be ideal for large blueprint or template for a garment that can be
manufacturers with mass production settings. used to cut and sew the fabric into a specific
On the other hand, Adobe Illustrator (AI) is a garment in a certain size. In essence, a pattern
computer-aided design (CAD) software that is is a two-dimensional guide that shows the
widely used in apparel design enterprises of all shape of the fabric that needs to be cut. Typi-
sizes due to its availability, accessibility, and cally, the pattern is placed on top of the fabric,
ease of use (Saha, 2018). and the fabric is cut following the pattern
This article seeks to answer the following outline. For home sewing, patterns are usually
research question: ‘What are the benefits and made of delicate tissue paper, while design
challenges of using AI as a digital tool for studios often use lightweight cardboard for
Apparel pattern-making, and how do these increased durability.
compare with traditional methods in terms of A garment's pattern typically comprises
efficiency, accuracy, and sustainability?’ multiple individual pattern pieces, each with its
This study aims to identify the benefits and templates, such as the front, back, sleeve, lin-
challenges of using digital tools, such as Adobe ing, and facings. The pattern outlines of these
Illustrator, in apparel pattern-making. This individual pieces represent the fabric cut lines.
study presents a comparative analysis of tradi- Besides the cut line, other pattern markings and
tional and digital methods of apparel pattern- instructions guide the cutter and the sewing
making, specifically for swimwear by using AI machinist on how to cut and sew the piece
as the digital tool. The study also highlights the (Calderin, 2011).
challenges associated with adopting digital To comprehend the importance of the
tools, such as the need for specialized skills and pattern-making stage in the apparel industry, it
the high cost of software and hardware. is imperative to examine the fundamental
By comparing traditional and digital methods stages involved in creating a new garment
of apparel pattern-making, this study seeks to shown in Fig. 1. The process begins with the
contribute to the existing literature on the use designer's initial sketch of the design, which
of digital tools in the fashion industry with a serves as the base for the following stages. The
focus on swimwear patternmaking and grading second stage involves pattern-making, in which
techniques. AI as a digital tool is particularly a two-dimensional pattern is created to repre-
relevant as it is widely used in the fashion in- sent the design. This pattern serves as a tem-
dustry and is considered one of the leading plate for the fabric and provides the necessary
software for apparel design. guidance for fabric cutting. In the third stage,
The results of this study can help inform de-
cisions about the adoption and integration of
mainstream digital software tools in apparel
pattern-making and can contribute to more
sustainable and efficient production processes.
This article can help shape how clothes are
designed and produced, especially in small
business contexts, through understanding the
potential benefits and challenges of digital
transformation in apparel pattern-making
using Adobe Illustrator. Fig. 1. The position of the Pattern-making stage in the garment lifecycle.
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 71

the fabric is cut to match the pattern's outline. adding style lines, drapes, pleats, pockets, and
Finally, in the fourth stage, the fabric is sewn other adjustments to create an original pattern.
together according to the pattern to create a The final pattern consists of a series of differ-
three-dimensional garment. Thus, the pattern- ently shaped pieces of paper that are traced
making stage is a crucial aspect of the garment- onto the fabric, cut out, and then seamed
making process as it serves as the interpreta- together to create a three-dimensional garment.
tion of the design and the foundation upon Each pattern piece contains notches or points
which the final garment is constructed that match up with the adjoining piece,
(Assembil, 2013). ensuring the seams are joined accurately. Once
The apparel patternmaking process involves the block has been modified, the seam allow-
taking measurements of the wearer or a dress ance is added to the pattern (Fischer, 2008).
form, and then using those measurements to There are several types of paper patterns
create a paper or digital pattern that can be used in garment production. Standardized
used to guide the cutting of the fabric. The patterns are created using standard body
patternmaker must understand garment con- measurements. Individual patterns, on the
struction and fabric characteristics to ensure other hand, are created using specific mea-
that the final product fits well and is comfort- surements for a particular person and are
able to wear. typically made at home or in smaller tailor
Patternmaking can be done by hand, using shops. Readymade patterns are created using
tools such as rulers, curves, and French curves, tracing paper and are useful for those who can
or with the aid of CAD software. Once the stitch but not draft patterns. Graded patterns
pattern is created, it is typically tested by contain patterns for five consecutive sizes,
creating a sample garment, which is then fitted allowing the individual to trace and cut the
on a model or a dress form to ensure that the pattern specific to their body measurements.
pattern is accurate and the garment fits prop- Finally, Commercial patterns for different de-
erly. Iterations may be made to the pattern until signs are available in readymade forms and
the fit is perfect, and then the final pattern is typically come with an instruction sheet de-
used to cut fabric to produce the garment tailing fabric selection, preparation, marking,
(Datta and Seal, 2018). cutting, and sewing steps, along with front,
Zakaria and Tajuddin, 2023, highlighted the side, and back views, and body measurements
importance of garment development and pat- (Karthik et al., 2016).
ternmaking for achieving a well-fitted garment.
The paper also emphasized the significance of Patternmaking tools
mastering manual patternmaking before mov- The following list outlines the necessary tools
ing on to a technology-based pattern-making for traditionally creating a pattern, listed in the
system. order they are typically used:

Types of patterns (1) Measuring instruments are crucial to the

A Block, also called a slopes, is a two- pattern-making process. Accurate measure-
ments must be taken and drafted using appro-
dimensional template for a basic garment form,
priate measuring tools, including measuring
such as a bodice or fitted skirt, that can be tape, straight rulers, curved rulers, flexible
modified into a more elaborate design. Blocks rulers, and a meter stick.
are created using measurements taken from a (2) Drafting tools are used for creating paper pat-
size chart or a live model and do not display terns. Based on the measurements taken, the
any style lines or seam allowances. However, drafting process is carried out to reflect the
they must include basic allowances for ease and garment's design, using drafting equipment
comfort (Calderin, 2009). such as papers, pencils, rubber, coloured pen-
A Pattern is created from a design sketch cils, an L-square ruler, square triangles, French
using a block as a base. The designer or pattern curves, a compass, a calculator, and scotch tape
cutter will make modifications to the block by or Sellotape.
72 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

(3) Tracing and marking devices are used for while still allowing for ease of movement and
transferring the details of the paper draft to the comfort.
fabric including tailor's chalk, tracing wheel, Swimwear patterns typically consist of
dressmaker's carbon paper, seam gauge, several pieces, including a front and back piece
notches, and awl (Karthik et al., 2016). for the main body of the garment, as well as
(4) Cutting devices are important to achieve precise
separate pieces for the straps, waistband, and
cuts and avoid significant fitting problems; Even
a small deviation in the cut can lead to signifi-
any additional details such as ruffles or pockets.
cant fitting issues. Therefore, it is imperative to The shape and size of these pieces will vary
carefully select and utilize cutting tools with depending on the style of the swimwear, as well
extreme accuracy and maintain these tools to as the size and shape of the wearer.
ensure they are used effectively. It is advisable to One of the key considerations when
utilize different shears for cutting fabric and designing and grading swimwear patterns is
paper since the act of cutting paper can dull the the stretch of the fabric. Swimwear fabrics are
blades (Aldrich, 2009). typically made from materials such as spandex
(5) Patterns should be stored using hanger hooks or elastane, which provide a high degree of
and ringers or in envelopes (Joseph-Armstrong, stretch and recovery. This means that the
2009). pattern pieces must be designed with stretch in
mind, and allowances must be made for the
Categories of patternmaking fabric to stretch and conform to the body.
Patternmaking can be categorized into Another important consideration when
various types based on different criteria. One designing swimwear patterns is the fit. Because
way to categorize patternmaking is based on swimwear is typically form-fitting, it is impor-
the purpose and application of the pattern, tant to ensure that the pattern is tailored to the
such as industrial patternmaking, costume individual wearer. This may involve adjusting
patternmaking, and home sewing pattern- the pattern pieces based on the wearer's mea-
making. Another way to categorize pattern- surements, such as adding or reducing length
making is based on the fit of the garment, such or width in certain areas (Shin, 2015).
as close-fitting, semi-fitted, loose-fitting, and According to (Armstrong, 2010, p.658-659); a
custom-fit patternmaking. Additionally, swimsuit can be developed based on one of
apparel patternmaking can also be categorized four pattern foundations. Each foundation has
based on the gender of the intended wearer, different characteristics regarding the cut of the
such as children's patternmaking, women's leg line, the type of bust support, the type of
patternmaking, men's patternmaking, and uni- fabric in which the swimsuit is cut, and the
sex patternmaking. Finally, patternmaking can desired silhouette desired. The foundations
also be categorized based on the type of shown in (Fig. 2) are the Maillot Foundation,
garment being created, such as tailored pat- Bikini Foundation, Little-boy leg line founda-
ternmaking, knitwear patternmaking, lingerie tion, and Full-figured Foundation.
patternmaking, active wear patternmaking, and
bridal and evening wear patternmaking. These Principles of patternmaking
different categories of patternmaking highlight Flat patternmaking is a fundamental tech-
the diverse range of skills and techniques nique in the fashion industry that is used to
required for creating patterns that meet the create patterns for a wide range of garments,
specific design and fit requirements of each from simple tops and skirts to complex tailored
garment type and purpose. jackets and dresses. It requires a thorough un-
derstanding of the principles and techniques
Swimwear patternmaking involved, as well as a keen eye for detail and an
Swimwear patterns are specialized patterns ability to visualize how the pattern will trans-
used for making swimwear garments, such as late into a finished garment. The flat pattern-
swimsuits, bikinis, and trunks. These patterns making process involves utilizing three major
are designed to fit snugly to the body and patternmaking principles and techniques: dart
provide support and coverage where needed, manipulation, added fullness, and contouring.
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 73

Fig. 2. The four swimwear foundations. Source: (Armstrong, 2010).

Dart manipulation involves relocating darts, as fit, practicality, and economy. To meet these
which are folded areas of fabric used to shape requirements, it is recommended that the size
the garment to fit the body. By moving darts, intervals between sizes be uniform throughout
designers can manipulate the shape and fit of the system. This allows for more efficient in-
the garment to achieve the desired look. For dustrial pattern grading, as adjustments from
example, moving a bust dart can change the the standard pattern to produce patterns for
shape of a bodice or blouse. other sizes can be made with greater accuracy
Added fullness involves adding more fabric than if there were nonuniform size intervals
to the design to create a particular style or (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014).
shape. This technique is often used to create The sizing of women's clothing is determined
flared skirts, full sleeves, or gathered waistlines. based on measurements of height, bust, waist,
By increasing the amount of fabric in certain and hips. In the UK, the sizing range starts from
areas, designers can create a more voluminous size 6 and goes up to size 22, with the most
or flowing silhouette. popular sizes being 12, 14, and 16. In Europe,
Contouring involves adjusting the pattern to sizes begin at 34, which is equivalent to size 6,
more closely match the curves of the upper and go up to size 52. American sizing ranges
torso compared with the basic garment. Con- from size 2 to 18. In menswear, a chest mea-
tour designs follow the natural curves of the surement for a jacket and waist and inside leg
body, rather than bridging the hollow areas measurements for trousers are used to deter-
around the bust and shoulder blades. Examples mine sizing. Shirt sizes are determined by the
of contour designs include the empire style neck measurement. For children's clothing,
line, which contours under the bust, the strap- height is the primary variable used to deter-
less bra top, which contours over, under, and mine sizing based on age. While pattern-mak-
sometimes between the bust, the surplice, ing books provide measurement charts for each
which contours over and under the bust, and size, it is best to take actual measurements from
cutout armholes and necklines, which contour live models, whenever possible (Fischer, 2008).
above the bust (Joseph-Armstrong, 2009). The sizing of clothing as small, medium,
large, and extra-large (S-M-L-XL-2XL … etc.)
Pattern sizing simplifies the process of obtaining and wearing
The creation of a size system is a human- clothes. The use of knits, elastics, and draw-
made convenience that considers factors such strings has allowed for increased flexibility in
74 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

clothing, contributing to its functional ease smaller patterns to produce garments in a range
(Calderin, 2009). of sizes. The location of cardinal points on a
Sizing systems can be categorized based on bodice is illustrated in Fig. 4. This process en-
the number of sizes they offer, placing them on sures that the final product fits well and is
a continuum shown in Fig. 3. At one end of the comfortable for all customers, regardless of their
continuum are ‘one size fits all’ systems that body size or type (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014).
rely on special garment design or material
properties to fit all individuals. Conventional Digital methods in apparel pattern-making
ready-to-wear sizing systems with a limited Pattern digitizing is a process used in the
number of sizes are in the middle. Mass- fashion industry to convert a physical pattern
customized sizing systems, which offer a vast into a digital format. This allows for easier
number of sizes along multiple control di- storage, manipulation, and sharing of the
mensions, fall next in line. Finally, the ‘made- pattern data, which ensures longevity and
to-measure’ sizing system, which targets indi- convenience. Patterns for manufacturing can be
vidual customers, is at the other end of the created as digital files that can be printed on
continuum (Ashdown, 2007). paper when needed (Calderin, 2009).
With the adoption of computer-aided pat-
Pattern grading ternmaking in the 1990s, the practice of work-
Grading is a specialized process in pattern- ing on flat tables was substituted with computer
making that involves scaling a pattern to a screens, and pattern drafting tools were trans-
different size by increasing or decreasing crit- formed into digital tools that could be activated
ical points of the pattern based on a given set of with a single click of a mouse. The introduction
measurements such as the British Standard of CAD systems made patternmaking more
sizing chart. Notably, only a few professionals effective by allowing for a speedy and accurate
have mastered the art of grading due to its process of pattern manipulation from existing
complexity. It requires a thorough under- databases, as well as providing ease of data
standing of the pattern and where adjustments transmission for decision-making and produc-
need to be made to fit the increase or decrease tion. However, during the early stages of CAD
in body size. The increments made during adoption, CAD systems were expensive, and
grading can range from 3 to 5 cm (1.5e2 in), most patternmakers were not trained to use the
depending on the garment range. Grading can technology. Although many apparel companies
be accomplished by hand using tools such as a still preferred manual patternmaking, some
metric grader's set square, pattern master, or L- used software for grading and marker making.
square ruler. Alternatively, grading can be Gradually, as the diffusion of CAD innovation
done using a computer program such as Lectra continued and access to technology increased,
or Asys (Fischer, 2008). companies began incorporating computers into
Grading begins with creating a garment their patternmaking processes and hiring pat-
pattern for a fit model or dress form in the ternmakers with CAD skills.
manufacturer's ‘base’ size. Increments and dec-
rements are then made at predetermined points CAD patternmaking programs
on the base pattern, known as cardinal points. CAD software are vector-based programs
These adjustments are made to create larger or that are especially utilized for two-dimensional

Fig. 3. Sizing systems categories developed by (Ashdown, 2007).

 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 75

Fig. 4. Location of cardinal points on a bodice. Source (Gupta and Zakaria, 2014).

patternmaking. Gerber Technology's AccuMark to visualize how the garment will drape and fit
and Lectra's Modaris are among the creators of on a person; CLO3D, Marvelous Designer, and
this specialized patternmaking software. Addi- Browzwear are some examples of three-
tionally, generic vector graphics software pro- dimensional modelling software (Baytar et al.,
grams, such as Adobe Illustrator, can be 2022). (c) Grading software (e.g. Optitex and
employed to draw patterns, despite not being PAD System) is another digital tool that auto-
specifically designed for pattern drafting mates the process of creating patterns in
(Moore, 2019). different sizes. Finally, (d) PLM software helps
In the meantime, the clothing industry manage the entire product development pro-
strongly favors the utilization of CAD tech- cess; some examples of PLM software are
niques for fashion design and pattern-making Centric PLM, Lectra Fashion PLM, and Gerber
due to the greater efficiency and time-saving Technology's YuniquePLM (Saha, 2018).
solutions it provides for many complex func-
tions. Additionally, it facilitates internet-based Benefits of computer patternmaking technology
communication between designers, manufac- Digital pattern-making offers several advan-
turers, and retailers. Worldwide (Rahman et al., tages, including increased speed by decreasing
2015). time-to-market, as well as the ability to email
There are several digital tools that are patterns to overseas factories in a matter of
commonly used in the field of apparel pattern- seconds. Additionally, digital patternmaking
making. (a) CAD software, such as Lectra, offers increased accuracy, with some software
Gerber Technology, and Tukatech, are digital even allowing measurements up to three deci-
tools specifically designed for creating technical mal points, such as in Pattern Design in Gerber
drawings and patterns for fashion and apparel Accumark. Storage of patterns is also simpli-
design. Another type is (b) Three-dimensional fied, as digital patterns can be archived and
modelling software, which allows designers to organized on a hard drive, reducing the need
create three-dimensional models of garments for physical storage space. Furthermore, digital
76 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

patternmaking allows for the reproduction of type, which is a text that is created on a single
patterns when needed, as well as the creation of point. ‘The Area Type tool’ is used to create text
templates for future use. In terms of sustain- that is contained within a shape or path. ‘The
ability, digital patternmaking can reduce paper Type on a Path tool’ allows users to add text
waste. Finally, depending on the price of the along a path or shape.
(5) Transform Tools help users to manipulate ob-
CAD/computer-aided manufacturing (CAM)
jects in their designs. ‘The Scale tool’ is used to
package in relation to the size of the business, resize objects proportionally. ‘The Rotate tool’ is
digital patternmaking can lead to cost savings used to rotate objects around a specific point.
due to the benefits listed above (Lo, 2011). ‘The Shear tool’ is used to slant objects hori-
zontally or vertically. ‘The Reflect tool’ is used to
Adobe illustrator create a reflection of an object.
AI is a vector graphics editor developed and (6) Artboard Tools used to manage multiple art-
marketed by Adobe Inc. It is a software tool boards within a single document. ‘The Artboard
used by designers and artists to create vector- tool’ is used to create and edit artboards. ‘The
based graphics and illustrations for a variety of Artboard Navigation tool’ allows users to navigate
purposes, including print, web, video, and between artboards. ‘The Artboard Ruler tool’ is
mobile applications. Graphics in AI are made of used to measure objects within an artboard.
lines and curves displayed by mathematical (7) Navigation Tools let users navigate around the
objects called vectors. A vector image is created canvas and zoom in and out of their designs.
These tools include ‘the Hand tool’, which al-
with strokes and fills, points (known as anchor
lows users to move the canvas around without
points) are joined to create lines (Known as changing the zoom level. It can be used by
Paths) and lines are joined to create objects. simply clicking and dragging on the canvas. ‘The
Unlike raster graphics, which are made up of Zoom tool’ allows users to zoom in and out of
pixels, vector graphics are created using geo- their designs by clicking on the canvas. ‘The
metric shapes, which can be rotated and scaled Zoom slider’ is located at the bottom left of the
up or down without losing quality (Centner and workspace and allows users to adjust the zoom
Vereker, 2011). level by dragging the slider left or right.

Tools of adobe illustrator ‘The Navigator panel’ provides an overview

of the entire canvas and allows users to navi-
(1) Selection Tools allow users to select and gate to different areas of the design. To open
manipulate objects in their designs. ‘The Selec- the Navigator panel, go to Window greater than
tion tool’ is the primary tool for selecting objects. Navigator. Users can click and drag the red box
‘The Direct Selection tool’ allows users to select in the Navigator panel to move around the
individual points or paths within an object, while canvas (Wood, 2020).
‘The Group Selection tool’ lets users select entire
groups of objects.
(2) Drawing Tools are used to create shapes, lines, Uses of adobe illustrator in the apparel industry
and curves. ‘The Pen tool’ is the most versatile AI provides designers with the ability to
drawing tool, allowing users to create custom create and manipulate vector graphics, which is
paths and shapes. ‘The Rectangle, Ellipse, and crucial for producing high-quality designs that
Polygon tools’ are used to create basic shapes. can be resized without losing quality. The
‘The Line Segment’ and ‘Arc tools’ are used to software can be used for a variety of apparel
create straight lines and curved lines, design tasks such as creating design sketches,
respectively.
developing technical drawings, creating
(3) Painting Tools provide ways to fill shapes and
graphics and logos, designing seamless pat-
paths with colour. ‘The Paint Bucket tool’ is used
to fill shapes with a solid colour. ‘The Gradient terns, and collaborating with others. Designers
tool’ is used to fill shapes with a gradient of can use Illustrator's tools to produce detailed
colours. ‘The Eyedropper tool’ is used to pick up sketches, precise technical drawings, complex
colours from existing objects. vector shapes with colour and texture, and
(4) Type Tools allow users to add text to their de- seamless patterns, and share their work with
signs. ‘The Type tool’ is used to create a point others in real-time. In addition, AI can be
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 77

widely used in apparel pattern-making as it body measurements and able to stretch to

provides designers with a range of tools that conform to the body shape. Adjustments to the
allow them to create accurate and detailed horizontal measurements are necessary to ac-
patterns with ease (Aldrich, 2008). count for the varying levels of stretch and re-
covery in different fabrics.
Methodology The block was constructed in size Medium as
the base size, and the measurements were
The methodology involved in this article extracted from the size chart provided in the
aimed to explore the process of pattern drafting book. The measurements required for con-
for a swimwear prototype using AI. The process structing the block are as follows: bust 88 cm,
began by creating a basic bodysuit block in a neck size 37 cm, nape to waist 41 cm, sleeve
base size using the software, which was used as length (jersey) 52 cm, wrist 16 cm, armscye
a starting point for the pattern modifications. depth 21 cm, back width 34.4 cm.
The modifications were implemented using
various AI tools and made according to the Implementation
design. After the pattern modifications were
completed, the next step involved finalizing the Adobe illustrator subscription
pattern by adding information and seam To acquire AI software in Egypt, individuals
allowance. The process of grading and marker- can visit the Adobe website and purchase a
making was also explored using the software. subscription to the Creative Cloud suite, which
The grading process involved creating a range includes Illustrator as well as other popular
of sizes for swimwear patterns, and the marker- Adobe software such as Photoshop and InDe-
making process involved arranging the pattern sign. The cost of the subscription varies
pieces to minimize fabric wastage. depending on the selected plan and duration,
To evaluate the effectiveness of using AI for with options ranging from monthly to yearly
pattern drafting, a comparison was made be- payments. As of 2023, the cost of a monthly
tween this digital method and the traditional subscription to the Creative Cloud suite starts
patternmaking method. Also, a comparison at around EGP 880, while the cost for Illustrator
between AI and other specialized software. The alone starts at EGP 350. Adobe also offers dis-
pros and cons of each method were explored, counts for students and educators, as well as
with a particular focus on accuracy, efficiency, special pricing for businesses and organiza-
ease of use, and sustainability. tions. Once subscribed, users can download
Overall, the methodology used in this study and install AI onto their devices.
aimed to provide a comprehensive overview of
the pattern drafting process for swimwear. with Preparing adobe illustrator workspace
a specific focus on the use of AI software. To facilitate the patternmaking process using
Through this study, it is hoped that a better Adobe Illustrator, it is crucial to set up a dedi-
understanding of the potential benefits and cated workspace specifically for pattern-mak-
limitations of using mainstream digital software ing. The vast array of tools available on the
for pattern drafting can be gained. platform can be overwhelming, and it's impor-
tant to identify which tools are essential and
Basic block pattern where to locate them. It is possible to customize
the workspace by adding and removing tools as
For constructing the basic block for the needed and saving the customized workspace
swimwear prototype, the body shaper block for future use. Fig. 5 represents the AI tools
instruction from (Aldrich, 2008), was used. The needed for pattern-making.
Body shaper Block is one of the Close-Fitting In addition to the customized toolbar, some
Garments Blocks used for (stretch and jersey panels, such as the Pathfinder, Brushes, Stroke,
fabrics). To create a well-fitting garment in Navigator, and Document Info panels can be
stretch fabrics, it is necessary to construct added by clicking on Window in the menu bar
blocks that are intentionally smaller than the and selecting the desired panels. Each of these
78 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

Fig. 5. Customizing Adobe Illustrator Toolbar for pattern-making.

panels is used for several patternmaking func- the bigger the artboard gives more space for
tions. These panels can be docked in the designing pattern pieces. The maximum art-
docking panel by dragging them to the desired board size in AI varies depending on the
position and releasing the mouse. The version being used and the computer hardware
customized workspace can be saved by clicking being used to run the software. In general, the
on the black down arrow in the top right-hand maximum artboard size in Illustrator ranges
corner of the screen and selecting Save Work- from ~577.2 cm by 577.2 cm e577.2 cm by
space. This customized workspace will be 83 077.8 cm.
unique to the computer being used and will be
available each time the program is opened. Drawing pattern in adobe illustrator
It is important to adjust the unit preferences
when working on patternmaking projects. This Drawing lines of specific lengths and angles
can be done by clicking on edit in the Menu bar There are two methods for drawing lines of
and selecting Preferences, then selecting Units specific lengths in Adobe Illustrator. The first
from the drop-down menu in the Preferences method involves using the Line Segment tool
dialogue box to change the units of measure- (y). By clicking anywhere on the workspace, a
ment to preference, such as centimeters. This dialogue box will appear, prompting the user
ensures that specific measurements for objects to input the desired length and angle of the
are in centimeters (Centner and Vereker, 2011). line. The second method involves drawing
When creating patterns in AI, it is important small ellipses, which act as points, and moving
to ensure that the artboard size is large enough these points to create a line. By selecting a
to accommodate the pattern pieces in actual point and pressing Enter, the user can deter-
size. The artboard size determines the mine the distance for the point to move, the
maximum printable area and can be adjusted in angle of movement, and whether to create a
the Document Setup dialogue box. copy of the selected point. A line will then be
The ideal artboard size for patternmaking in drawn between the two points, allowing the
actual size depends on the dimensions of the user to create a line of the desired length and
garment and the size of the pattern pieces but angle.
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 79

Drawing curves
Drawing curved lines is an essential skill in
patternmaking using Adobe Illustrator.
Creating smooth curves for necklines, arm-
holes, sidelines, and hip curves can be done by
utilizing the Pen tool. The Pen tool allows users
to create anchor points and adjust the curve by
manipulating the handles on each point. Using
the Direct Selection tool, users can adjust the
curve's shape by manipulating the anchor
points and handles.

Measuring lines and curves

Measuring pattern lines and curves is an
essential step in patternmaking to ensure accu-
rate sizing and fit. Several tools in AI can be used
to measure patterns. The Scissors tool allows
users to measure the length of a straight or
curved line by selecting the tool and clicking on
the starting and ending points of the line. The
length of the line will then appear in the Info
panel at the top of the workspace. This tool is
particularly useful when measuring armholes to
match sleeve caps or any other lines in a pattern.
The Document Object Info tool also provides
more detailed information about selected ob-
jects, including curves. To use this tool, users
can select the object they wish to measure and
navigate to the Window menu and select
Document Info. In the Document Info panel,
users can select ‘Object’ from the drop-down
menu and view detailed information about the
selected object, including its length, area, and Fig. 6. Basic swimwear block pattern using Adobe Illustrator. Created by
the author.
curvature.
Fig. 6 illustrates using AI to draw lines and
curves for the basic swimwear pattern. Two- or a bodice. To mirror a pattern, users can use
stroke colours were used to differentiate be- the Reflect tool in Illustrator, which allows them
tween front and back patterns. to select an object and create a mirrored copy of
it. By aligning the mirrored copy with the
Tracing, mirroring, and joining pattern original pattern, users can create a symmetrical
Tracing, mirroring, and joining patterns are pattern.
essential techniques used in patternmaking Joining patterns is the process of merging two
with Adobe Illustrator. Tracing is the process of or more patterns into a single pattern. This
creating a copy of a pattern piece and that can technique is useful when working with pattern
easily be done by selecting the piece using the pieces that need to be combined, such as the
selection Tool and pressing Alt and drag to two mirrored halves of a front bodice. To join
create a copy or by copying and pasting it. patterns in Illustrator, users can use the Path-
Mirroring is the process of creating a sym- finder tool, which allows them to combine or
metrical copy of a pattern. This technique is subtract overlapping shapes. By aligning and
used to create patterns that are symmetrical overlapping the pattern pieces, users can merge
along a central axis, such as sleeves, pant legs, them into a single pattern.
80 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

Writing pattern information users to create a copy of a pattern piece that is

Pattern information is the collection of data slightly larger than the original, effectively
and instructions that are added to a pattern to adding seam allowance to the pattern.
convey important details about the model, size, To use the Offset Path tool, users can select
and cutting instructions of the pattern. This the pattern piece and then navigate to the Ob-
information can include details such as the ject menu and select Offset Path. In the Offset
name of the pattern, the size of the pattern path dialogue box, users can input the desired
pieces, the cutting layout, the seam allowance, seam allowance measurement, and select
the notches, and the grain line. whether to create an inside or outside offset.
To add text to a pattern, users can select the Once the settings have been adjusted, users can
Type tool and click on the workspace where click ok, and Illustrator will create a copy of the
they want to add the text. Users can then type pattern piece that includes the seam allowance.
the desired information. Users can also adjust Fig. 7 represents the finished swimwear pattern
the font, size, and colour of the text using the after adding seam allowances, written infor-
Character panel. The symbols tool in Illustrator mation, and cutting instructions.
can be used to add notches and other symbols
such as gathers, buttons and buttonholes sym- Grading pattern
bols to a pattern. Grading swimwear patterns requires a thor-
ough understanding of the basic rules of
Adding seam allowance grading a body. As shown in Fig. 8, the length
Adding seam allowance is a crucial step in of the swimsuit increases by 1.5 cm from the
patternmaking, as it ensures that the final highest point of the shoulder to the gusset. The
garment will fit properly and be comfortable to center front (CF) of the swimsuit increases by
wear. AI offers several tools that can be used for 0.5 cm upwards, while both highest points of
adding seam allowance, one of which is the the shoulder (HPS) increase by 0.5 cm upwards
Offset path tool. The Offset path tool allows and 0.5 cm outwards to avoid grading the straps

Fig. 7. Pattern modifications, extracting front and back patterns, adding seam allowance and writing information on pattern pieces in Adobe
Illustrator. Created by the author.
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 81

Fig. 8. Grading swimwear pattern pieces in Adobe Illustrator. Created by the author.

too wide. The width of the body grades by fabric required for the design accurately.
2.5 cm at the front and back, therefore 1.25 cm Furthermore, various distributions of pattern
on ½ the pattern. The underarm point increases pieces can be experimented with to determine
by 0.5 cm upwards to achieve half of the side the most efficient layout and thereby reduce
seam increase and 1.25 cm outwards to attain fabric waste.
the chest increase and 0.7 cm increase on the
underarm. Similarly, the leg point increases by Printing pattern
0.5 cm downwards to get half of the side seam When it comes to printing patterns drawn
increase and 1.25 cm outwards to achieve the using Adobe Illustrator, there are several options
hips increase. Finally, the gusset points increase to consider. First, it is important to ensure that
by 1 cm downwards to get the full body in- the pattern is set to the actual scale before
crease and the leg grade (van Jonsson, 2020). printing. Next, the pattern can be saved in PDF
format, which ensures that it can be printed on a
Marker making variety of printers and operating systems. The
Accurate estimation of fabric needed for a tile method can be used to print the pattern on
design is essential to minimize waste and multiple pages, which can then be taped together
optimize resources. One approach to achieving to create a full-sized pattern (Moore, 2019).
this is using Adobe Illustrator, whereby a rect- Different printing paper sizes can be selected
angle resembling the fabric dimensions is depending on the size of the pattern and the
created and pattern pieces are distributed available printer options. Standard paper sizes
(Fig. 9) while considering the grain direction. By available for printing swimwear patterns
doing so, it becomes possible to calculate the range from A0 to A4. The A0 size measures
82 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84

Fig. 9. Marker making and estimating fabric usage for swimwear pattern pieces in Adobe Illustrator. Created by the author.

841  1189 mm (33.1  46.8 inches), while the A1 sustainability. However, it also requires a
size is half the size of the A0, and so on. Finally, it higher initial investment in software and hard-
is possible to print the pattern at home or at a ware and may have a steeper learning curve for
print shop. those unfamiliar with CAD software. Table 1
compares traditional Manual Patternmaking
Results and discussion and Patternmaking using Adobe Illustrator.
Comparison between traditional and adobe
illustrator patternmaking methods Comparison between adobe illustrator and
other patternmaking CAD software
AI patternmaking offers several advantages
over traditional patternmaking methods, Table 2 provides a comparison between
including greater efficiency, flexibility, and pattern-making using AI and using other CAD
Table 1. Comparison between Manual pattern-making and pattern-making using Adobe Illustrator.
Factor Manual Patternmaking Patternmaking using Adobe Illustrator
Working space Requires a large work surface, such as a cutting Requires only a computer/laptop and desk
table
Working tools Requires a variety of tools such as rulers, curves, Requires a computer/laptop and a mouse.
pencils, and scissors
Working time and effort Time-consuming and labour-intensive, involving Faster and requires less physical effort due to
manual drafting, cutting, and piecing together software automation
pattern pieces
Cost Fewer upfront costs but may incur higher costs in Higher initial investment in software and
the long run due to the need to replace tools and hardware but offers more cost-effective solutions
materials in the long run
Work sharing and exchange Requires a physical exchange of paper patterns Allows for easy sharing and exchange of digital
patterns
Modification and editing Limited flexibility and requires manual Allows for easy digital duplication providing
duplication of patterns for modification and greater flexibility and ease of modification and
editing editing
Accuracy Can be prone to human error and require trial Tends to be more precise due to the ability to use
and error exact measurements and easily make adjustments
without starting over
Storage Requires physical storage space for paper Allow patterns to be stored digitally, taking up
patterns and tools less physical space
Sustainability Requires paper, which can have negative More sustainable option because it eliminates the
environmental impacts need for paper and reduces waste
 JOURNAL OF ART, DESIGN AND MUSIC 2024;3:69e84 83

Table 2. Comparison between Pattern-making using Adobe Illustrator versus other computer-aided design software.
Factor Adobe Illustrator VS other CAD software
Cost Adobe Illustrator is generally more affordable than other specialized patternmaking software such as
AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex, which require a higher initial investment in software and hardware.
Interface Adobe Illustrator offers a user-friendly interface that is familiar to many designers and easy to learn,
especially for those familiar with other Adobe software. Specialized patternmaking software such as
AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex has a more specialized interface designed specifically for patternmaking,
which may require more time and effort to learn.
Specialization Adobe Illustrator is a general-purpose software suitable for a wide range of applications, while AccuMark,
Modaris, and Optitex are specialized for patternmaking, offering advanced features such as 3D modelling,
grading, and marker making.
Learning curve Adobe Illustrator has a lower learning curve compared with specialized patternmaking software such as
AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex, which require extensive training and experience.
Accessibility Adobe Illustrator is widely available and accessible to small and large businesses alike, while specialized
patternmaking software such as AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex is designed for large enterprises with
dedicated patternmaking teams.
Ease of use Adobe Illustrator is generally considered easy to learn and use, while specialized patternmaking software
such as AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex has a steeper learning curve and requires extensive training and
experience.
The size of the enterprise Adobe Illustrator is suitable for small, medium, and large enterprises, while specialized patternmaking
software such as AccuMark, Modaris, and Optitex are best suited for large enterprises with high-volume
production.

Software that is specialized in pattern-making. (4) Compatibility issues: AI files may not always be
The comparison is based on cost, interface, compatible with other patternmaking software
specialization, software learning curve, accessi- or manufacturing equipment. This can create
bility, ease of use, and the size of the enterprise. issues when sharing files or sending patterns to
production, which may require additional file
conversions or adjustments.
Challenges of using adobe illustrator in (5) Cost: while AI is generally more affordable than
patternmaking specialized patternmaking software, it still re-
quires an initial investment in software and
While AI is a popular and accessible option hardware. This can be a barrier for small busi-
for patternmaking, it also comes with some nesses or individuals who may not have the re-
challenges. Some challenges of using AI in sources to invest in the software.
patternmaking include
Conclusion
(1) Limited patternmaking-specific tools: while AI
offers a range of tools for creating vector-based In conclusion, this study has shown that using
designs, it may not have the same level of AI for apparel patternmaking provides signifi-
specialized tools as other patternmaking soft- cant advantages over traditional manual
ware. This can make it more difficult to perform methods and other specialized patternmaking
certain patternmaking tasks, such as grading or software. AI's versatile design tools, ease of use,
creating markers. and accuracy make it a preferred choice for
(2) Steep learning curve: while AI is generally many fashion designers and pattern makers.
considered easy to learn and use, it still requires The use of AI in pattern making has improved
some time and effort to become proficient in the speed, accuracy, flexibility and sustainabil-
using the software. Pattern-makers who are not
ity of the design process, making it an essential
familiar with CAD software may need to invest
additional time and resources to learn the soft-
digital tool for any modern apparel business.
ware and adapt to new workflows. Conflicts of interest
(3) Lack of three-dimensional modelling capabil-
ities: AI is a two-dimensional design software
None declared.
and does not have the same level of three-
dimensional modelling capabilities as special-
ized patternmaking software. This can make it
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