your resource for drafting collar patterns

Table of contents

introduction 6
chapter 1: non convertible collars 7
Peter Pan Collar 9

Pointed Peter Pan Collar 10

Chelsea Collar 11

Pointed Chelsea Collar 12

Collar for a square Neckline 13

Sailor Collar 14

Sailor Collar with layered edge 15

Sailor collar with ties 17

Flounce neckline 18

chapter 2: Stand collars 19

Basic Stand-up Collar 21

Stand-up Collar without overlap 22

Stand-up Collar with ruffle 23

Wing Collar 24

Jabot Collar 25

Pussy Bow Collar with separate ties 27

Pussy Bow Collar All-in-one 28

Turtleneck Collar 29

Roll Collar 30
Links:
Crew Neckline 31
Website: theshapesoffabric.com Crater Neckline 32
Instagram: instagram.com/behind_shapesoffabric
Facebook: facebook.com/shapesoffabric Stovepipe Neckline 33
Pinterest: pinterest.com/shapesoffabric

©2021 the shapes of fabric. all rights reserved.

3
 Stovepipe neckline (seamless back) 34 Notched Collar for a dress 79

Stovepipe neckline with lapels 35 Clover Lapel Collar 80

Chapter 3: Shirt collars 36 Peak Lapel Collar 81

Button Placket 38 Wide Notched Collar (double-breasted) 82

Shirt Collar from Stand-up collar 39 Flat Roll Notched Collar 83

Simple Convertible Collar 40 Large Lapel Collar 84

Simple Convertible Collar (version 2) 42 Collar for Trench Coat 85

All-in-one collar + stand 43 Chapter 6: Detachable collars 87

Basic Shirt Collar 45 Detachable Peter Pan Collar with ruffles 89

Long point Collar 48 Detachable Jabot Collar 90

Narrow Collar 49 Neck Ruffle 92

High Collar 52 Pleated Neck Ruffle 93

rounded collar points 53 Paneled Neck Corset 94

Double Collar 54 Pleated Neckpiece 96

Collar Bib 55 Sculptural Neckpiece 97

Chapter 4: Shawl collars 56 Chapter 7: Tips & Troubleshooting 98

Basic Shawl Collar 58 About seam allowance 100

Flat Roll Shawl Collar 61 How to sew the collars 101

Winged Shawl with low breakpoint 62 Troubleshooting 106

Scalloped Shawl Collar 63

Notched Shawl Collar 64

Notched Shawl Collar (version 2) 65

Layered Shawl Collar 66

Portrait Collar 68

Lapel Collar 70

Extra Large Collar 71

Chapter 5: Jacket collars 73

basic Notched Collar 75

4 5
introduction
I have created this collar pattern compilation
as a reference guide for drafting different
types of collars. There are a total of sixty-one
collars included. You’ll find collars for shirts,
dresses, blouses, jackets, coats, as well as
detachable designs.
To draft the collar patterns, you’ll need either
a basic bodice or jacket block, or a
commercial pattern you want to add a collar
to. Just ensure that it has a clear c-front line
and a proper neckline.
chapter 1
Non convertible collars
Or maybe you want to modify an existing
collar pattern?
The collars have been divided into six
chapters based on their features or how they
are drafted. In the final chapter I’ve included
some quick sewing instructions and a
troubleshooting section.
Each collar chapter will first illustrate how to
draft the basic pattern and then modify it to
create a large variety of designs. There are
enough examples to get you started and
hopefully this will encourage you to venture
into creating your own versions, too!

6 7
 Peter Pan Collar

The non-convertible collars group consists of

collars that follow the neckline shape and
therefore lay relatively flat.
As a result, they are rather easy to draft. You only
need to align the front and back bodice pieces 1. To create a Peter Pan collar pattern
at the shoulder-line and slightly overlapped at for a dress or blouse, unite the front
the shoulder tip. and back bodice pieces at the
shoulder-line, overlapping them by
Then, you draw the collar shape directly on top, 1cm at the shoulder tip, as shown.

ck
copying the neckline and creating any shape

ba
If you want to alter the neckline size,

c.
you’d like on the outer edge of the collar. make the modifications before drafting
the collar.
In this chapter, you’ll find collars such as the
peter pan, chelsea, and sailor. 5c
m
2. Then, draft the collar shape directly
2.
Each of them will be cut into two layers, of which 1. on top of the bodice (on another piece
7cm of paper), in the shape and size you
the top is interfaced. You’ll find it easier to attach 1cm overlap
prefer, starting at the c-front line. The
the collar to the neckline if there’s a lining or a collar can consist of two pieces, like in
neckline facing. That way, you only have to this example, or one piece, as in the
sandwich the collar between the two layers. following example.

If your garment has an opening at the

c.front
c-back, the collar should have two
pieces.

This collar can be made both with and

without a button stand.

3. If you use the pattern as it is, you’ll

have a flat-roll collar, which means that
it will lay flat on your shoulders.
2mm
If you want to create a partial or full roll,

peter pan collar:

cut 4 + interfacing
3. make slashes in the collar pattern and
overlap the different sections at the
2mm
outer edge to make it smaller. This will
force the collar to ”roll” upwards.
2mm
The more you overlap, the more it will
rise.

8 9
 Pointed Peter Pan Collar Chelsea Collar

1. The chelsea collar is for garments

that have a V-neck. So, if yours doesn’t

ck
have one yet, begin by modifying the
ck

ba
ba

neckline shape. The V could end, for

c.
c.

example, at the armscye level.

Here’s another example of a Peter Pan

m
Your garment can be either with or

5c
collar. This time, there’s a button
m

without a button placket at the c-front.

5c

placket at the c-front. 2.

1cm overlap
Also in this case, the collar begins at
the c-front, so the two sides meet 1. 2. Then, unite the front and back
c.front 6cm
1cm overlap when it’s closed. 7cm bodice pieces at the shoulder-line,
overlapping them by 1cm at the
3. shoulder tip.
However, you can also make the collar
9c
m

start further away from the c-front if

3. Draft the collar shape on the bodice

c.front
6cm you prefer.
in the desired shape and size, starting
As there’s no opening at the c-back, at the c-front. In this example, it’s
c.front

this collar can be cut into one piece. rounded.

If the neckline is large enough for the

head to pass through, you don’t
necessarily need an opening.

b.
c. Otherwise, with a back opening, you
need to cut the collar into two pieces,

c.back
g + :
in ld ar
ac fo l

separated at the c-back.

rf n ol
te o c
in t 2 sie
cu el

c.front
ch

10 11
 Pointed Chelsea Collar Collar for a
square Neckline

This example shows a pointed version This collar is like the previous
of the chelsea collar with a button example but goes with a square
placket at the c-front. neckline. You can modify the
measurements of the neck opening
Here the collar is relatively large, but to your liking.

ck
you can also draft it smaller.
ck

ba
1. After you’ve drafted the neckline
ba

c.
c.

The collar begins at the c-front line to shape, align the front and back
make the two sides coincide when the bodice pieces at the shoulder-line,
blouse is buttoned up.

m
this time overlapping them by 2cm

5c
m

at the shoulder tip.

4c

In this case, it doesn’t make much 3cm

sense to move the collar higher up the
neckline, although you can if the 2cm overlap 2. Then, place another see-through
1cm overlap
design requires you to do so. 12cm piece of paper on top, copy the
7cm
6cm 1. neckline shape and then draft the
collar. You can use the
5cm measurements shown as a
c.front 2. reference or make it your own.

8c
m
7cm
In this case, it’s a good idea to either
13c
m

line the bodice/dress or make a

7cm
facing for the neckline. This way,
you can both finish the neckline

c.front
c.front

edge and sandwich the collar in

between the bodice and facing or
lining.

12 13
 Sailor Collar Sailor Collar
with layered edge

The sailor collar is drafted in a similarly

to the chelsea collar: You’ll need a V-
neck bodice. There can’t be an
opening at the back, so ensure that the
neckline is large enough for the head
°
90

2. 16
cm to pass through or add a front opening.
cm
20

Here’s an example of a sailor collar with

1. Start by aligning the front and back a twist: creating stripes around the
bodice pieces along the shoulder-line. edge using the layering technique.
Then, overlap them by 1cm at the 2.

m
3c
shoulder tip. There’s also a button placket at the
1cm overlap
c-front.
1. 2. Draw the sailor collar shape on top.
Notice that the reference
measurements shown here might not
1. Adapt the basic sailor collar shape
so that the side of the collar is
work with all the sizes. completely straight. You might need to
change the collar width or the neckline
It’s essential to create a right angle at depth to achieve this.
the c-back to get a straight hemline
when you cut the collar on the fold.
1. 2. Then, draw another line 3cm
Curve slightly around the shoulder-line c.front inward, parallel to the edge.
to finish the collar at c-front.
3.
3. The collar consists of two layers.
You might want to interface the top
cut on fold
c.back:

cut 2 + interfacing
Sailor collar:

layer. It’s a good idea to also create a

neckline facing unless your garment is
cut on fold

lined (see the dashed line).

c.back:
c.front

14 15
 copy this
Sailor collar
with ties

m
piece

2c
3. 3. Decide on how wide you’d like the
depth of the top layer pleat. In this
example, it’s 2cm. Draw another
parallel line next to the one you drew
earlier.

Copy the area shown in the picture.This

will become the bottom layer.

copy this 4. Now copy the top layer piece and

piece
add 2cm to be add 2cm to the outer edges. As the
4. folded under
lines are straight, you can simply fold
the edge to create a facing.

Cut off the angle as shown to create a

mitered corner.
This example shows you how to add
Cut the pointed area at the front with ties to the sailor collar. In this case, it’s
the facing folded under to get the better to create a facing that covers

ck
ba
correct shape. both the neckline and the button

c.
placket. This means you only need to
add half the button placket width at the
c-front of the bodice: 1.5-2cm.
5. The original collar without layers 3. 1. Start by drafting the basic sailor
will become the lining side of the
collar. 2.5cm high closure: collar as usual but continue straight
7cm after reaching the c-front point at the
1. neckline. Measure a rough 5cm width
C.front
5cm fold for the tie.
2.
5.
2. The outer edge of the collar will

m
5c
m

15c
12-

c.front
need to become slightly wider at the
cut on fold

fold
front, starting from the shoulder-line.
cb:

Main collar
edge: So, proceed as shown in the picture
Main collar

cut 1
cut on fold

1.5-2cm
and complete the tie shape as you
c.back:
cut on fold

Collar
lining:
center:
c.back:

overlap
prefer. The length could be, for
cut 1

cut 1
fold

example, 12-15cm from the c-front.

c.back: cut on fold

collar;
Mark a notch on the collar where the

cut 2
c-front of the bodice is.

c.back: cut on fold

3. The closure for the ties is a simple
c.front: cut 2

rectangle closed into a ring. Ensure to

make it large enough to be able to slip
through the ties. The height of the
fold
pattern piece is twice the final height of
the ring, as it’s folded in half.
collar
closure:
cut 1

16 17
 Flounce neckline

4.5cm 4.5cm 2cm

1. Not exactly a collar, but another simple
measure
2cm e
way to enhance the neckline.
ur
as
me

1. Begin by modifying the neckline if

needed. In this case, it’s quite large.
You might need an opening at the c-
c.back

back if the neckline isn’t large enough.

c.front

Then, measure the front and back

necklines separately to create the
flounce patterns. Add seam allowance
twice to the measurements. There will
chapter 2
hem be a flounce for the front and one for Stand collars
2. allowance
the back.
seam
allowance
inner circle radius: flounce

2. The flounce pattern is a full circle.

height
front or back neckline here: 12cm x

measurement / 3,14 /2
Therefore, make the following
calculation for the inner circle radius:

Divide the total front or back neckline

measurement by 3.14 and then divide
the result by 2.

Use a compass to draw the smaller

circle. Then, decide on the flounce
height to get the radius for the outer
circle. You might have to use a
c.back
c.front

measuring tape instead of a compass if

the flounce is too large.

3. Mark a notch for the c-front and c-

back along the inner edge of the
3. flounce patterns. You can cut them into
back neckline
front neckline
flounce: cut 1 (2) flounce:cut 1 (2) two layers for an easy way to finish the
c.front c.back
hem.
shoulder shoulder
(cut here) (cut here)
There will be a seam at the shoulder-
line.

18 19
 Basic Stand-up Collar

In the Stand Collar chapter an array of different

stand-up, band, roll collars, and built-up
necklines have been placed.
You’ll need the neckline measurement
The chapter starts from the basic stand-up collar from your bodice pattern. Measure front
construction becoming a base for many other B 1. A and back neclines separately.
collar types. So, refer to the basic collar 1/2 neckline measurement + 0,5cm
instructions when needed. 1. Draw a straight line A-B. The length
equates to the front and back neckline
These collars are drafted using the neckline measurement + 0.5cm.
measurement of the garment they will be
attached to. So, make the changes to the 2. D front neckline + 0,3cm 2. Measure the back neckline + 0.2cm, as
in the picture, and mark a notch C. On the
neckline before drafting the collar. collar
overlap
C
back neckline +0,2cm other side of the notch you
should have the front neckline
For example, drafting a collar for the basic measurement + 0.3cm.
bodice block neckline might become too tight Also, add the measurement of your button
1,5cm placket overlap (for example, 1.5cm),
and uncomfortable to wear, so you can widen it F G extending to the left, D.
before proceeding with the collar. collar 3.
4.
3. Square up 3cm from A and C. This is
width collar
(3cm)
E width
Also stand collars consist of two layers, and the 1,5cm here: 3cm
the width of the collar. However, you can
top layer should be interfaced. However, some D C A change this measurement.
bias-cut designs can be better without
interfacing, such as the turtleneck and the pussy G 5. 4. Square up 1.5cm + your collar width
from D and mark a notch E at 1.5cm and F
bow collar as they require a softer look. col on top, as shown here. Square 1.5cm to the
l
wid ar
E th right from F, and mark G.

5. With a line, unite E and G and then

measure collar width from E along this line.
6. Complete the collar shape as shown in the
picture.

6. Mark the button and buttonhole

placement, taking into account the amount
of overlap you have (here: 1.5cm). The
button should end up at the c.front line.

Check the collar length against the bodice

Stand-up collar:
neckline with the ”walking” method.

c.b.
cut 2+interfacing Correct if needed. Mark the shoulder notch
and mirror the collar.

20 21
 Stand-up Collar Stand-up Collar
without overlap with ruffle

For a different look, you can add a ruffle at the upper edge
of the stand-up collar.
The stand-up collar can also be made without overlap at
the c-front, and the corners can be rounded. This example is also 1cm higher than the basic collar. In
this case, you can raise the collar height as shown.
This style is also called the mandarin collar.
Then, measure the upper edge to calculate the ruffle
So, don’t add the overlap and change the shape of the length.
corners. This collar ends at the c-front line, so when the
bodice is buttoned up, the collar’s two sides meet at the For a full ruffle, you can make it double the length of the
center. collar. Otherwise, you can try multiplying the collar length
by 1.5. Here, the ruffle height is 2cm, not including the
seam and hem allowance.

The ruffle could also be made of lace.

measure

c.back

4cm
ruffle

2cm
stand-up collar:
c.b.

cut 2 + interfacing

2x collar measurement

22 23
 Wing Collar Jabot Collar

The basic stand-up collar can be turned into a wing collar,

as shown here.

There’s an overlap, and the wing shape begins about

2-3mm after the c-front line. This will prevent the left and
right wings from overlapping at the c-front when the This example illustrates how to make a
collar is closed. jabot collar starting from the basic
1. stand-up collar.
The dashed line marks are where to fold the collar once
it’s sewn. The jabot consists of a high-low half
circle that is folded on itself various
times at the inside edge.

c.b.
leave out
the button
jabo
goes h t The folded part is then sewn under the
(6cm arere
collar. The longest edge of the jabot
4cm

placket width ea)

(here: 3cm)
remains under a separate button
placket piece at the front of the shirt.
c.back

1. First, decide on the final width of

the jabot along the collar edge and
2. 6cm
mark its placement.
3cm Here the jabot covers a 6cm-wide area.
3cm Remember to leave out the button
3cm
placket width.
3cm

2. Calculate the total measurement of

Wing collar:
the jabot’s upper edge. Take into
account the folds, as shown in the
c.b.

tot: 18cm
Cut 2 + interfacing
picture. Here, the final measurement is
18cm.

24 25
 3.
c
Pussy Bow Collar

5cm
b
with separate ties
a-b=18cm/3,14 a
11cm
d 3. Then, calculate the radius for the
inner circle (A-B) by dividing the target
b measurement by 3.14.

In this example, 18cm/3.14 =5.7cm

Draw the inner half-circle with your

18cm

compass around point A.

e Decide the length of the jabot at both
ends and in the middle, and then draw
the hemline creating a high-low shape.
d

4. Finally, add notches to the inner

fol

4. fold
edge where the folds are. In this case,
that means there’s 3cm between each
notch, except at the top where there’s
6cm.

Separate the button placket piece from

the rest of the bodice front.
2. The stand-up collar is a base for this
raise the collar height pussy bow collar. It has separate tie
parallel to the original line
pieces.

c.back
1. cf
remove 3cm
1. To leave space for tying the bow,
shorten the stand-up collar by 3cm
4cm
from the c-front line. Remember to
c.back

collar: (=collar height)

cut 2 + interfacing mark a notch on your front bodice
pattern where the collar starts.

3. 2. You can also make the collar

slightly higher if you wish. In this
example, the collar height is 4cm.

pussy bow collar:

cut 2 + interfacing
3. Decide on the tie length. If you want
to tie a bow, they could be even 70cm
long.

bow ties:
cut 4
70c
c.b.
Then, draft the pattern piece as shown.

m
The starting point should be the same
collar jabot:

width as your collar height because the

c-front

ties will be sewn into the short edge of

cut 2

the collar.

You can make the tips wider, as shown

in this example.

The tie pieces are cut four times.

8cm

26 27
 Pussy Bow Collar Turtleneck Collar
All-in-one

A turtleneck collar is a band collar,

which means it’s a simple, bias-cut
0.5cm
1. 0.5cm rectangle folded in half. Except, of
measu
r e course, if you’re using a knit fabric
1cm ea
su
re
-0.4cm where you don’t need bias.
m
-0.6cm
In this version of the pussy bow collar, 0.5cm

1.
2. the collar and the ties are kept united.
The collar can be drafted up to double
1. To create a snug fit around the
neck, raise the neckline by 0.5cm at the
10cm

collar
the final height so that it can be worn c-front. Next, enlarge the neckline by
c.back

height:
10cm
folded. It’s cut on the bias, so there’s a

c.back
0.5cm at the shoulder-line, both front

c.front
cf
remove
3cm
seam at the c-back. and back. Then, measure the neckline,
front and back pieces separately.
1. To leave space to tie the bow, Remove 0.6cm from the front neckline
shorten the stand-up collar by 3cm
10cm

from the c-front line. Remember to measurement and 0.4cm from the
mark a notch on your front bodice 2. back neckline measurement. This is
c.b.

cf
pattern where the collar starts. because the bias-cut band will stretch.

shoulder

shoulder
2. To make the collar taller, raise the
2x final
2. Draft the rectangular collar pattern

cf
cb

cb
c.b. c.b. height

c-back seam until it’s the correct height using the neckline measurements. The
(here it is 10cm). pattern should cover the entire
total neckline measurement neckline.
pussy bow collar:
cut 4 (+interfacing)

At the front of the collar, find the new

starting point 3cm from the c-front line, The rectangle’s width is twice the final
and go straight up by the collar height collar height as it will be folded in half.
3. (here: 10cm). Then, move 1cm inward at
Mark the c-front and shoulder points
a right angle and mark the point.
onto the collar pattern.

shoulder

shoulder
Draw the collar’s front line using the
Notice that when you’re using a woven

cf
cb

cb
reference points as shown and finish
the collar shape, maintaining the fabric, you’ll need to leave an opening
height. for the head to pass through. It can be
70cm

either at the c-front or the c-back,

depending on the garment design.
3. Decide on the tie length (here: Consider adding a little overlap for
70cm), and draw the tie starting from buttons.
the front edge of the collar in your
desired shape.

10cm

28 29
 Roll Collar Crew Neckline

The crew neckline is used with t-shirts

and sweaters. It’s very similar to the
band collar. Still, it lays flatter because
it’s cut slightly shorter than the
A roll collar is basically a turtleneck for neckline of the bodice and stretched
6cm
1.
6cm ca 1cm
wider necklines. Ideally, it’s wide while sewing. You’ll need a knit fabric
measure enough for the head to pass through for this one!
me
asu
re -0.4cm so that you don’t need to leave an
0.5cm -0.6cm opening.
1. Begin by modifying the bodice
neckline. If you want to maintain its
1. Begin by modifying the neckline. 2cm 1.
2cm
2cm original size, remove just the
Raise the c-front by 0.5cm but enlarge mea neckband’s width. Otherwise, you can
2cm
c.back

sur
e
remove more.
c.front

the neckline towards the sides. In this as

ur e

example, it’s enlarged by 6cm. me

In this case, the neckband is 2cm wide,
You’ll probably need to lower the so the bodice neckline has been
neckline at c-back to be able to draw a enlarged by 2cm in each direction.
nice shape.

c.back
c.front
2. Then measure the new neckline,
Then, measure the neckline and calculating the front and back
measurements together.
shoulder

shoulder

2x final remove 0.6cm from the front neckline

cf
cb

cb

width measurement and 0.4cm from the

total neckline measurement

back neckline measurement.
2. Draft the rectangular neckband
pattern using the neckline
2. Draft the rectangular collar pattern 2x final height
+seam allowance measurements.
using the neckline measurements. The total front+back neckline measurement x 0.8 + seam allowance
pattern should cover the entire The rectangle’s width is twice the final
neckline. 2. neckband height as it will be folded in
half. You can even add the seam
The rectangle’s width is twice the final allowance on both sides already.
shoulder

shoulder

collar height as it will be folded in half.

cf
cb

cb

To calculate the neckband length, a

Mark the c-front and shoulder-line onto good rule of thumb is to use 80% of the
the collar pattern. bodice neckline measurement, so
multiply your neckline measurement
by 0.8. Then you can add seam
allowance at both ends.

However, the type of fabric you’re

using might require either a longer or a
shorter neckband. So, start at 80%
and test.

30 31
 Crater Neckline Stovepipe Neckline

Here’s another type of band collar

construction. This version of a stovepipe neckline is a

eme ine
1.

nt
6cm

l
6cm

mea neck
+1cm mix between a built-up neckline and a
1.

sur
+1cm

1. First, decrease the neckline of both stand-up collar, as it needs to be

k
0.5c

bac
m 0.5cm
measu attached to the back neckline like a
the front and back bodice patterns by r e
collar.
1cm all around. Then, draw a parallel
line, for example, 6cm from the new
1. Start by enlarging the back bodice
c.front

neckline. This will become the band

c.back

collar width. neckline by 0.5cm at the shoulder, and

then measure the new back neckline.

c.back
Separate the pieces from the rest of 2.

c.front
the bodice.
2. Add 1.5-2cm overlap to the c-front.
2. Add some volume to the collar 1.5-2cm overlap 4cm
Mark a notch at the shoulder-line,
pieces with the slash and spread 0.5cm from the neckline, and another

90°
method, as shown here. You can also

90°
at the overlap outer edge at bust level.
add more if you’d like the collar edge Draw a line between the two notches
to end further away from your neck. 3. and continue upwards from the
shoulder until you reach the back
c.front

c.back

Finally, adjust the lines of the collar neckline measurement.

edges.

The collar should be cut twice so that 3. Draw the c-back line of the collar at
you get a facing for it, too. a right angle. The collar should be
about 4cm high.

c.front
Then finish by drafting the upper edge
2. c.b.
of the collar, 4cm from and parallel to
Cut 4
C.b.

the one you drew earlier, as shown,

Cut 2 on fold
C.f.

1cm m
1c 1cm and unite it to the front edge of the
1cm
bodice with a soft curve.
ng
C.back: CUT 2

ci

c.back: cut on fold

fa Check the measurement with your
C.front: CUT ON FOLD

back bodice neckline and correct it if

needed.
c.front: cut 2

There’s also a facing: see the dashed

line.

32 33
 Stovepipe neckline Stovepipe neckline
(seamless back) with lapels

3cm
The second version of the stovepipe
neckline is built from the bodice
3cm

neckline. Therefore, the shoulder

seams continue upward at the sides of
the neckline.
1.
c.front

1. Add an overlap to the c-front. In this With minor modifications to the

8c
previous neckline, you get this version

m
example, it’s 2cm, so it’s more suitable 8cm
for a jacket. with lapels.
2cm overlap
Decide where you’d like the lapels to
Continue the line 3. 2. Slash and spread as shown at the start (breakpoint). In this example, it’s at
upwards until you have
the original neckline
2. 90˚ front neckline to raise it by 5cm. the armscye level.
measurement e curve
copy th
Draft the new front neckline, continuing Then draw a roll line from the

c.front
ca 5cm
upwards at the shoulder-line. The goal breakpoint towards the collar, as
5cm is to reach the original front neckline shown.
measurement.
Draft the collar and lapel shape.
As a result, the shoulder-line will
become curved. Mark a notch about at
c.back
c.front

the center of the shoulder-line.

3. Mark a notch also at the center of facing

the back shoulder-line. Then copy the

shoulder-line curve from the front
ng
piece onto the back piece, matching fa
ci
fac
ing the notches.
ng

c.back
ci
fa Raise the c-back line by roughly 5cm
and complete the back neckline with a
curve. c.front
c.back
c.front

Copy the facing pieces as shown here.

34 35
 In this chapter, you’ll find different collars with a
collar stand, either all-in-one or separate.
Although these are typically used for shirts, you
can also create collars for dresses and certain
types of coats with these instructions.
There are a few ways to draft the basic shirt
collar pattern, so you can pick the one you like
the best.

Chapter 3
You’ll also learn how to modify the basic shirt
collar pattern and create various designs from it.
To sew the shirt collars, you’ll need to cut two
Shirt collars layers and interface the top layer. For collar
stands, the top layer refers to the one closest to
your neck.
There’s typically no need to enlarge the top
collar piece for shirt collars, as you’ll see happen
with shawl and notch collars.

36 37
 Button Placket Shirt Collar from
Stand-up collar

As shirt collars usually mean there’s

2.8cm
3cm
1,5cm
also a button placket, here’s a quick
summary on how to draft the basic
button placket.
stitching The button placket for shirts is usually
3cm or 2cm wide.
The most frequently used option is
3cm, as 2cm can be rather narrow
requiring smaller buttons.
c.front

x
Instead for coats and dresses you can
make it wider than 3cm.
at least 2mm
On the left, you can see how to draft 1. If you have the basic stand-up collar
both. The basic button placket is folded pattern, it’s easy to draft a collar

p
final button placket width: 3cm

la
pattern, turning the stand-up collar into

c.back
er
twice so that the final placket has three

ov
the collar stand.

5cm
layers of fabric plus the interfacing.

9cm
Both the left and right sides of the shirt 2. 1. The collar should start at least 2mm
are the same for this type of placket. from the c-front line (the dashed line in
2cm
Here’s how to draft the placket: the picture). This way, the left and right
1.8cm 1cm
sides of your collar won’t overlap when
First, extend from the c.front line by wearing the collar closed.

c.back
1,5cm or 1cm (half of the final placket
width). This will create an overlap.
stitching
2. Choose your collar size and
Then add 3cm or 2cm for the facing. 3. inclination. The measurements here
In addition, there’s the extra part which will become like the collar in the
will remain hidden. It’s only 2.8cm or picture. The collar just needs to be
c.front

x
1.8cm wide so that it fits nicely 90° higher than the collar stand to cover it.
inside the folds without creating bulk. increase

c.back
3. Copy the collar pattern and add
if needed

Add notches for each fold, both at the

neckline and the hemline. some volume to the edge with the
final button placket width: 2cm
90° slash and spread method, as shown.
0.5cm 0.5cm
Then, adjust the lines. The collar will
become curved.
Ensure that there’s a right angle at both
sides of the c-back to avoid forming
4. angles when the collar is mirrored.
collar stand:

c.b.
4. Add a notch to the collar stand
cut 2 + interfacing

pattern where the collar starts.

collar: cut 2 + interfacing
Mirror the collar pieces.

c.b.

38 39
 Simple Convertible Collar
4. Draw a straight line from point E
towards the c-front, extending it by
4. 2cm from the D-F line and mark point
f e G.
G 2cm
Then, draft the collar shape as shown
with the help of the guide marks:

D The c-front of the collar should arrive

at the 1.5cm mark: Draw a slightly
curved line.

From there, draw the collar point,

passing through mark G.

Curve the upper edge of the collar,

starting approximately at the shoulder
This collar is worn folded, so you can mark (see the dashed line) and arriving
say that it has an integrated, crescent- at the tip of the collar point. Depending
shaped collar stand around the back. on your collar point length, you might
5. not be able to respect mark F, as seen
It’s probably more suited for dresses e here.
and coats, but it doesn’t have an 3mm

extension for the button placket as the

typical collar stand does. So, it starts
5. Finish by inclining the c-back line of
the collar by 3mm as shown and
either at the c-front line or further away correct the other two lines so that they
from it. begin in a right-angle from the c-back.
To draft the pattern, measure the front Check the collar measurement with
B 1. A and back neckline of the bodice your bodice neckline and adjust if
separately. needed before mirroring the pattern
1/2 neckline measurement + 0,5cm piece.
1. Begin by drawing a straight line A-B. The dashed line shows where the
2. D front neckline + 0,3cm The length should equate to the front
and back neckline measurement + collar is folded.
C 0.5cm. If you’re making a coat collar, you can
back neckline +0,2cm
create the upper collar pattern by
enlarging the original pattern at its
2. Measure the back neckline + 0.2cm upper edge by 3mm, as shown here.
and mark a notch C, as in the picture.
F On the other side of the notch, you
E should have the front neckline
3. 7cm measurement + 0.3cm.
8cm

collar height
(”collar stand”
1.5cm included)
3. Square up 7cm from A, and mark

c.back
D A point E. This will be the c-back of your
collar, and the measurement includes
both the collar and collar stand height.

Square up 8cm from D to point F and

make a notch at 1.5cm.

40 41
 Simple Convertible All-in-one
Collar (version 2) collar + stand

As a variation to the previous collar,

here’s how you can modify the shape.

In this example, the collar starts further This collar construction has both the
away from the c-front, and the collar collar and collar stand in one pattern
points have a different inclination. piece.
3cm As a result, there’s a lot of space in Although it’s quicker to sew, it doesn’t
between. look as nice as having a separate collar
b 1. A stand. If you compare this picture to the
Draft the previous collar and make the following collar picture, you’ll see how
1.5cm changes shown here. 1/2 neckline measurement + 0.5cm
this collar has some issues at its fold.
Remember to mark a notch at the
bodice neckline where the collar starts. Measure the front and back neckline
separately.
If you’re making a coat collar, you can
create the upper collar pattern by
enlarging the original pattern at its 1. Begin by drawing a straight line A-B.
upper edge by 3mm as shown here. 2.
collar
stand The length should equate to the front
front neckline + 0.3cm height
(3cm)
and back neckline measurement +
d b c a 0.5cm.
collar back neckline +0.2cm
overlap
2. Measure the back neckline + 0.2cm
and mark a notch C, as in the picture.
Collar: cut 2 + interfacing
On the other side of the notch, you
c.back

should have the front neckline

measurement + 0.3cm.
Also, add the measurement of your
button placket overlap (either 1cm or
1.5cm), extending to the left (D).

Square up 3cm from A. This will be the

c-back of your collar and you’re now
drafting the collar stand.

42 43
 3.
3. In the middle of points B and C,
square down 0.6cm and mark E.
Basic Shirt Collar
You can now draft the collar stand as
0.6cm shown. Starting at the c-back, the first
part is straight. At point C, the neckline
db e c edge of the collar stand curves
downwards to reach point E and then
back up at point D. Draw a rounded
shape for the overlapping part,
maintaining the 3cm height.

4. Continue the c-back line upwards

until you reach the collar height, which
J is 4cm here. Mark point F.
1,5cm H 4.
I 2cm
f
The collar should always be higher
5. 5cm
than the stand to cover it. So, if you To draft the collar pattern, you’ll need
4cm
wish to alter the collar size, maintain to measure the neckline of your shirt
g the proportion of the collar and the pattern. You can regulate the collar
size, if needed, by modifying the
C.front

2mm collar stand height.

neckline, but do that before drafting
b the collar.
5. Mark point G 2mm inward from the
c-front line. Measure the front and back neckline
To draw the collar point, square up separately.
from point B, measuring 5cm from

J
point G level upwards, and mark H.
Square 2cm from H to the left and 1.
1. Begin by drawing a straight line A-B.
6. mark I. Square up 1.5cm from I and b A The length should equate to the front
mark J. This will be the collar point. and back neckline measurement +
f 5mm 1/2 neckline measurement + 0.5cm
0.5cm.
90°

6. Unite point G with point J and 2. Measure the back neckline + 0.2cm
g complete the upper edge of the collar
shape with a curve, as shown. and mark a notch C, as in the picture.
On the other side of the notch, you
Finally, decline the c-back of the should have the front neckline
90°
collar by 5mm at the top from point F
collar
stand
measurement + 0.3cm.
and adjust the lines so that you 2. front neckline + 0.3cm
width
(2.5cm)
Also, add the measurement of your
maintain the 90º angles. d b c a button placket overlap (either 1cm or
collar back neckline +0.2cm 1.5cm), extending to the left (D).
overlap
Check the collar length using the
bodice neckline and mark notches for Square up 2.5cm from A. This will be
the shoulder-line. Then mirror the the c.back of your collar and you’re
pattern. now drafting the collar stand.
The dashed line is where the collar is
folded.
3.
3. In the middle of points B and C,
square down 0.6cm and mark E.
You can now draft the collar stand as
0.6cm
shown. Starting at the c.back, the first
db c part is straight. At point C, the neckline
e
cut on fold

collar+stand: edge of the collar stand curves down

c.back:

cut 2 + interfacing
to reach point E and
then comes back up again at point D.
Draw a rounded shape for the
overlapping part.

44 45
 4. Then there’s the collar. Again, Check the collar pattern by first
“walking” the collar stand pattern along
starting from the c.back, leave 1.5cm of
collar space between the collar stand and the shirt neckline to confirm if the
4. width
collar.
move the length is correct. Often, you’ll find that
3cm
at c.back
(3cm)
Then, continue the c.back line upwards
collar along you need to move the shoulder notch
the neckline.
until you reach the collar width, which using a pointed
and shorten or lengthen the collar from
1,5cm 1,5cm
in this case is 3cm. object allows the c.back.
you to turn Add a notch where the collar starts.
more easily.

c.front
The collar should always be wider than
c the stand in order to cover it. So, if you After this, “walk” the collar pattern
wish to alter the collar size, maintain along the upper part of the collar
the proportion between the collar and stand, the way it will be sewn, starting
the collar stand width. from the notch. Adjust the length if
needed. Add notch somewhere in the
Continue the collar lines parallel to that middle.
of the collar stand at a 1.5cm distance Add seam allowance if you wish and
i finally mirror both the collar stand and
1,5cm g until you reach point C.
h 2cm collar pattern. Add notches to c.back,
also.
6. 5cm (=collar point length-2cm)

5.
5. The lower edge of the collar curves collar: The grainline of the collar can either be

c.b.
cut 2 + interfacing

down towards point F which is located horizontal or vertical. You need to cut
2mm inwards from the c.front line of two of each and interface one
c.front f the shirt. This way you ensure that the collar stand: of each.
line cut 2 + interfacing

left and right sides of your collar won’t

c.b.
b overlap when wearing the collar
closed.
Now that you have the basic collar
pattern, you can create all kinds of

6.
6. To draw the collar point, square up different collar designs.
from point B, measuring 5cm from
point F level upwards, mark G. Square Here on the left, you see the various
2cm from G to the left and mark H. points of the pattern you can modify, in
Square up 1.5cm from H and mark I. addition to changing the collar point
This will be the collar point. and collar stand corner shapes of
course.
Unite point I with point F and complete
the upper edge of the collar shape with Next, there will be an array of examples
a curve, as shown. to illustrate the possibilities of this
3mm
pattern.

90˚ 7. Finally, decline the c.back of the

7. collar by 3mm at the top and adjust the
90˚ lines so that you maintain the 90º
angles.

The button goes on the c.front and the

buttonhole sits horizontally at the
center of the collar stand width.

46 47
 Long point Collar Narrow Collar

If you’d like your collar larger with longer collar points,

here are two ways to modify the pattern.

The first way maintains the collar point distance the same
as the basic collar pattern:
You raise the collar points by the desired amount straight
up from where the original collar points are. To make the collar narrower, you can simply lower the
collar top edge by the desired amount. Draw the new
The second way brings the collar points closer: collar edge parallel to the original.
You follow the original collar point inclination upwards by
the desired amount. In this case, the collar stand needs to be lowered by the
same amount to avoid showing under the collar.
Notice how you also need to increase the collar stand
height to raise the overall collar height.

+2cm +2cm
+1cm
-4cm
-4cm -1.5cm

+1cm

-1.5cm

+2cm +2cm
+1cm

+1cm

48 49
 Distant Collar Points Spread Collar

Suppose you don’t want your collar sides to be so close

to each other at the c-front when the shirt is buttoned up. This version of the shirt collar has more space between
In that case, you can move them further away: the collar points.
Re-draw the collar points parallel to the original, moving To create this look, you need to change the inclination of
them away from the c-front by the desired amount. As a the collar points as shown.
result the collar becomes shorter.
You can move the collar points by the desired amount
Remember to move the notch on the collar stand pattern and, at the same time, alter the length, too, if you wish.
by the same amount.
In this case, the collar stand remains the same.

-1cm -1cm -1.5cm -1.5cm

-1cm
-1cm

50 51
 High Collar rounded collar points

This collar is higher than the original and there’s less

difference between the collar height at the back and front
of the collar. Therefore, the edge is also less curved.

Essentially, you raise the back of the collar more than the For an alternative collar tip shape, you can make it
front. In this case, the collar point inclination is altered, rounded as shown.
too.
In this example, the inclination changes as well, but the
To support the new height, the collar stand is raised by rest of the collar and collar stand stay the same.
the same amount as you raise the collar at the c-back.

This type of collar may have issues of being too tight

around the collar edge. In that case, you can create more
space with the slash and spread method (see the
Troubleshooting section).

3c
m

m
3c
1cm
1cm
+1cm +1cm
-1cm -1cm

+2cm

+2cm

52 53
 Double Collar Collar Bib

You can also create a double collar. However, this will be

a rather bulky construction, so use lightweight fabric.

The bottom layer has the basic collar shape, so you only
need to create the top layer pattern:
10c m
1cm m 10c To finish this chapter, here’s how you
It should not start at the same point as the bottom layer can create a collar bib, or a mock-up
to avoid extra bulk. shirt, to be worn under a blouse.
Instead, move it about 1.5-2cm away from the c-front.
The most straightforward version is to
In this example, the top layer is higher and has a broader

c.back
base this on the dartless bodice
spread to create an interesting look.

c.front
pattern.
The collar stand needs to be raised, too. Copy the central part of both the front
and back pieces, adding a curved
waistline waistline hemline and a button placket. The
length depends on the neckline depth
of the blouse you’ll be wearing the bib
with. But above the waistline will most
likely work.
4.5cm 4.5cm
+1cm
Mark notches for the ties to be added
under the arms, somewhere around
8cm
8cm

the armscye level.

c.back: cut on fold

Measure the neckline and draft the
+1cm collar of your choice.

C.front: cut 2

54 55
 The shawl collar is an easy type of collar for
coats and jackets. However, it can also be used
for other kinds of garments, such as dresses.
The shawl collar is constructed as an extension
of the front bodice piece, which means that the
collar will have a back seam.
There’s a separate facing piece which will be the
side of the collar that remains visible. This
enables you to make the collar in a different

Chapter 4
fabric or color than the rest of the garment if you
wish.
The facing is drafted slightly larger than the
Shawl Collars primary layer around the collar. This way, the
seam remains hidden.
In this chapter, you’ll find the basic shawl collar
pattern and several versions of it, as well as a
few other collars that are constructed similarly.

56 57
 Basic Shawl Collar 8c
5. (previous page) Now you need to
draw a line at a 45° angle to the c-front
90 m
˚
of the bodice, starting from the
6. previous guide mark.
curve You may find it helpful to draw a right-
angle at the guide mark as shown: 45
degrees will be located in the
center.
The length of this line is your back
neckline measurement. It’ll serve as a
guideline next.

c.front
6. Draft the back neckline of the collar
around the 45° guideline as shown,
curving it slightly. Then add the c-back
line in a 90 degree angle.
Here, the collar height is 8cm at c-
back. It will be worn folded, so the final
collar is not as high.

7. 90
˚

This is the basic shawl collar pattern

which can then be turned into various
styles. You can use any kind of bodice 8cm
3. 2. 0.5cm or dress pattern as a base. Or maybe
1cm
you have a simple coat or jacket 7. Draw the outer edge of the collar,
measu
r e
pattern you’d like to add a shawl collar starting at a 90 degree angle to the c-
2.5cm
to. back line and ending at the breakpoint.

1. 1. Add a 2.5cm extension to the c-

c.front
front for the buttons. This is for a single
first
breasted coat or jacket.
c.back

button
c.front

=
break Mark where the uppermost button will
point
be placed. Here it’s between the bust
and underarm level. This will be the
breakpoint of the lapel.

2. Enlarge the back neckline by 0.5cm 8. The shawl collar will need a facing,
and then measure it. which is 0.3cm larger along the outer
edge of the collar. So, copy the original

c.
en e

5. 8.
m lin

b.
t

3. Extend the front shoulder line 1cm pattern piece and add the extra width.
re k
su ec

0.5cm
ea n

+0.3cm 5cm
m ack

towards c-front following the shoulder

b

The facing also covers part of the

slope inclination and add a guide bodice pattern so that the lining won’t
line

mark. fac
ing
show: see the dashed line. Consider
eak

extending it enough to cover more than

e/br

4.
4. Draw the collar’s roll line, or just the button stand area, which in this
l lin

breakline, starting from the breakpoint case is 2.5cm from the c-front.
Rol

(outer edge of the button placket) and

c.front

c.front
ending at the guide mark you just The front lining pattern will then start
added. from where the facing ends.
Add another guide mark 0.5cm in on
the original shoulder line.

58 59
 Flat Roll
Shawl Collar

c.
c.

b.
b.
Here are the pattern pieces for the
shawl collar. Mark the roll line on both
the bodice and facing pieces.

Check the collar length against the

bodice back neckline and adjust if
needed.
shawl collar facing:
cut 2 + interfacing The facing piece is usually interfaced.
c.front

c.back: cut on fold

c.
b.
This example will show you how to turn
the basic shawl collar into a wider, flat-
roll shawl.

While you can draft the shawl collar

directly to lay flat, you can also modify
the existing pattern with the slash and
spread method, as shown.

c.front
Here on the left, you can see how to
modify the basic shawl collar. Adding volume this way turns the collar
neckline closer to the shoulder.
First, the inclination of the back
neckline influences the collar’s roll: Re-draw the outer edge adding extra
when it’s closer to the shoulder line, it width.
will become flatter and vice versa.
ape

2cm
r sh

m
lla ne

2c

c.b.
e co is li

Then, of course, you can modify the

n th g th

collar height and shape. If you fold the

esig lon

collar pattern along the roll line, you

to Fdold a

can draft the collar shape on the wrong

side of the pattern. This way, you’ll see
how it’ll look in its actual position.

Finally, the breakpoint of the collar can

c.front

be moved higher or lower, which will

also change the inclination of the

c.front
collar.

60 61
 Winged Shawl with Scalloped
low breakpoint Shawl Collar

8c .b.

7c
Here’s a different shape which also has This collar has a scalloped edge, and
m

m
c

c.
a lower breakpoint.

b.
the c-back height is 1cm lower than
that of the basic shawl collar.
So, begin by lowering the breakpoint
and drawing a new roll line. In this You can create any shape you like for
example, the breakpoint is located the collar edge, as long as you’re
12cm above the waistline. willing and able to sew it, too!
Then, draft the collar shape as shown.
The wing should be inclined upwards.
c.front

12

c.front
cm
12cm

62 63
 Notched Notched Shawl Collar
Shawl Collar (version 2)

This version of the shawl collar has The second version of the notched

6c
been turned into a narrower notched

m
collar is the same as the one before,
6c

c.
b.
m

curve
c.

collar. The shape is inspired by the but the notch is different:

b.

curve
jacket collars shown in the next
chapter. 8c It has a separate, diamond-shaped
m
5c
m piece in the middle of the notch.
Lower the collar height and draft the m The notch itself is also wider to
5cm 8c
new shape on top of the basic shawl accommodate this extra piece.

straight
collar, creating a notch roughly in the
straight

middle. The lapel part of the collar Cut the diamond shape into two layers
consists of straight lines, whereas the and mark notches on the pattern piece
collar section has been curved slightly for its placement.
where it touches the shoulder (when
turned).

c.front
c.front

64 65
 Layered
Shawl Collar Copy each layer. They will form the
undercollar.
If you want to make the upper collar
slightly larger, trace the collar pieces
and add 0.3cm of extra width to the

c.
b.
outer edge of each.
under
collar
layer 1:
cut 2
Otherwise, you can use the same
pattern for both the under and upper
collar. Just remember to cut the upper
collar layer number 1 on the fold to
eliminate the c-back seam, and the
under collar on the bias.
under
under
collar
collar/lapel
layer 3: When sewing, you might have to add
layer 2:
cut 2
cut 2
some extra (hidden) stitches to keep
the layers together.

side panel:
cut 2
c.front
c.
b.

To make this layered shawl collar, first,

lower the breakpoint so that you get
more space for the three layers.

c.back: cut on fold

Then divide the front bodice into two
panels. If you have a dart, absorb it into
the style line.
The layers will all begin at the style line
c.front

so that you can sew them into the

seam. The construction is rather bulky,
so use lightweight fabric.

Draft the three layers as shown, or

create your own shapes. The collar will
become the first layer.
9c
m

1 Mark notches on the side panel where

the layers begin.
2

3
4
c.front

66 67
 Portrait Collar

This collar will need a larger facing

piece, so copy the shape from the front
pattern piece and add 0.3cm of extra
width around the outer edge of the

fa
ci
collar.

n
g
As the button stand is wide, so is the
facing.

c.back
c.front
It’s recommended that you make a
toile to check the fit and see how much
room there is for your arms.

The portrait collar is a shawl collar

drafted for a wide neckline so that the
collar edge falls over the arms.
2. In this example combines a wide
2cm
4cm button stand that extends 5cm from
3.5c
m
measure the c-front, leaving enough space for
two rows of buttons. You could also
turn this into a wrap dress.
1.
1. Begin by marking a notch 4cm from
the front shoulder tip. Choose a height
c.back

for the breakpoint. It could be at the

c.front

armscye level, for example.

Then draw the roll line from the
breakpoint to the notch.
5cm

2. Next, draft the new back neckline

overlap

leaving a 3.5cm-wide shoulder-line and

4. lowering the c-back by 2cm. Then
90°
measure the new neckline.
9cm

back neckline

3. Use the back neckline

measurement
90°
3.
0.5cm leave enough
measurement to draft the collar’s
space for
seam allowance
neckline, starting 0.5cm towards the
shoulder tip from the roll line. Curve it
towards the shoulder as shown: This
collar needs to lay flat.

4. Then, draft the c-back line of the

c.front

collar at a right angle (here: 9cm) and

proceed to draft the rest of the collar
shape, ending at the breakpoint.

The dashed line shows where to slash

and spread to increase the collar edge
length if it doesn’t sit well.

68 69
 Lapel Collar Extra Large Collar

1.5-2cm
overlap 1cm 1cm This collar isn’t really a shawl collar, but
As the name suggests, this ”collar” only measu as the construction is similar, you can
has lapels and no collar. But the r e
find it in this chapter.
construction is similar to the shawl
first
collar. Begin by enlarging the neckline by 1cm
c.front

button
at the c-front and the sides. Measure
Also in this case, there’s an extension the back neckline.
for buttons at the c-front, and you need

c.front
to define the breakpoint along its outer

c.back
Also, add a 1.5-2cm extension to the c-
edge. front for the buttons.
10c
m Then, you draw the roll line between
the breakpoint and the neckline where
1.5-2cm overlap
the shoulder slope starts.

Draw the center of the lapel at a right

en e
The collar will start at a button

m in
c.front

t
angle to the roll line at your preferred

re kl
extension distance from the c-front, so

su ec
position. In this example, it’s 10cm long.

ea n
in this case, at 1.5-2cm.

m ck
ba
Then complete the lapel shape as Mark a notch and draw a line from this
shown and copy a facing piece. point to the neckline where the
1.5-2cm
from cf shoulder slope starts.

From there, continue until you reach

the back neckline measurement.

c.front
c.front

70 71
 Re-shape the line you just drew as
shown, curving it, and moving the
neckline slightly upwards.

˚
16

90
cm

Then add the c-back line of the collar

at a right angle. To create an extra-

˚
r
ol e

90
la
e c at
large collar, make it 16cm high.
th epar
s

19cm Finally, draw the rest of the collar

shape, making the collar tip even
longer than the c-back line.

Separate the collar piece. It will

become the under collar, that’s cut on
c.front

the bias.

Copy the collar piece and add 0.3cm to

its outer edge as shown to create the
upper collar pattern.
.3c
m The upper collar will be cut on the fold
+0 to eliminate the c-back seam. However,

Chapter 5
if you don’t mind having the seam, the
collar will fold better when even the
upper collar is cut on the bias.

Copy a facing for the bodice front

piece, too.
Jacket Collars
:
ar
ll
o
c.back

c 2
er t
d cu
un

cu upp
cut on fold

t 1 er
+in co
c.back:

te
rf llar
ac :
in
g
c.back: cut on fold
ng
ci
fa
c.front

72 73
 basic Notched Collar

This group consists of various types of notched

collars that are most often used for blazers and
other kinds of tailored jackets and coats.
You’ll learn how to draft the basic notched collar
and how to modify its design. There’s also a
separate collar pattern for a trench coat.
Draft this pattern and use it as a base
for all the other notched collar designs
Suppose you already tried the shawl collar presented here.
pattern. In that case, you’ll find this construction
is similar, but slightly more complex as you need You can even make a toile as it will
to separate the collar piece. make it easier to understand how to
modify this pattern for a specific look.
There is a separate upper and under collar. The
undercollar is cut into two pieces on the bias so To make it simpler, this illustration
features the basic bodice block.
that it will turn nicely. The upper collar is cut on However, for jackets you should use a
the fold to eliminate the c-back seam. jacket block.
The upper collar and the facing are slightly 2. 3. 0.5cm
larger to hide the seam around the collar and 1cm
measu

1. Add a 2.5cm extension for the

r e
the lapel. 2.5cm
overlap
buttons along the c-front line. This is
for a single breasted jacket. Then mark
1. the breakpoint for the collar. It’s also
where the first button is to be placed.
Here it’s 10cm above the waistline.

c.back
c.front
2. Extend the front shoulder line 1cm
first
button
=
breakpoint
towards c-front following the shoulder
slope inclination and add a guide mark.

3. Enlarge the back neckline by 0.5cm

and then measure it.

74 75
 4. Draw the collar’s roll line, starting 9.
9. When you’re happy with the collar,
from the breakpoint (outer edge of the te you can separate or copy the collar
ra piece. Ensure that you mark the
button stand) and ending at the guide ep
a
5.

en e
s
shoulder line on the collar piece and

m lin
mark you just added.

t
re k
su ec
0.5cm
Add another guide mark 0.5cm in on the collar starting point on the bodice

ea n
m ack
the original shoulder line. piece.

b
6.
7cm
The original collar will be the under
90˚
5. Now you need to draw a line at a collar piece, that is cut on bias and has
4. 45° angle to the c-front of the bodice, a seam at the c-back. Cutting the collar

c.front
starting from the previous guide on the bias makes it turn more easily.
mark. You may find it helpful to draw a
right-angle at the guide mark as
c.front

shown: 45 degrees will be located in

the center.
The length of this line is your back
neckline measurement. 10. Copy the original collar and add
It’ll serve as a guideline shortly. 0.3cm along the upper edge and the
collar tip as shown to create the upper
10.
6. Square a line from the roll line +0.3cm collar pattern. It’s slightly bigger to hide
the collar seams.
towards the c-front. It should pass

c.back
6c 90˚

through the original c-front of the

m

7. If you find it difficult to sew the collar

neckline, as shown. pieces together (depends on the
curve
ht
curve The length of this line depends on how fabric), you may add less extra height.
aig
str m large you want your lapel to be as it will The upper collar will be cut on the
4c
become the lapel tip. Here it’s 7cm. grain. This allows the visible part of the
collar to be cut in one piece.
7. Start drafting the inner edge of the
straight

collar shape around the 45° guideline

as shown. Continue this line down to
c.front

draft the lapel.

11.
Mark where you’d like the collar notch
to be. Here, it’s 4cm from the lapel tip.
11. The jacket also needs a facing at
the c-front to finish the lapel and
+0.3cm
button stand.
Also, draw the collar c.back seam at a You could make it, for example, 7cm
right-angle. In this example, it’s 6cm. wide, starting from the waistline and

ng
Remember that the collar will be ending at the shoulder line.

ci
8.

fa
˚
folded, so it won’t actually be 6cm high.
90
Copy the facing and add 0.3cm extra
curve
8. Finish the collar shape by drafting

c.front
around the lapel as shown for the same
4c the upper edge. It should start at a reasons you did for the upper collar.
m
right-angle to its c-back line.
The first 3-4cm of the collar should be The front lining will start where the
straight, then curve slightly as shown facing ends. There could also be a
(this point is where the shoulder will
7cm
back facing around the neckline.
be, so you need to curve to allow
space for it).
c.front

Decide upon the length of the collar tip

and the width of the notch. In this
example, the collar tip is 4cm long to
create a symmetrical notch.

76 77
 Here are the final pattern pieces.
Check that the collar piece has the Notched Collar
correct length for the bodice neckline
with the ”walking” method, starting for a dress
from the collar notch you marked on
the lapel piece.

jacket front:
You can add 2mm of ease to the front

cut 2
cut 2 + interfacing
front facing:

neckline by moving the shoulder notch

forward.
c.front
Add or remove the extra length from
the collar’s c-back. Make the same
changes to both collar pattern pieces.

Ensure that you have the roll line and

notches marked on the pattern pieces.
r:
la
c.back

ol ng
rcerfaci
e
The facing and both collar pieces
c.back: cut on fold

d t
unt 2 + in
cu
should be interfaced. For the
undercollar, the interfacing will also be
cut on fold
c.back:

llar
rco ing
up1p+einterfac
:t
cu
cut on the bias.

If you want to make the notched collar

for a dress or shirt, it’s a good idea to
raise the breakpoint so that the
2c
m neckline opening won’t remain too
6c
m revealing.

Other changes here include a smaller

collar height
armsc
ye lin
e
button stand, a smaller lapel, and an
asymmetrical notch created by moving

c.front
Here on the left is the basic notched the starting point of the collar closer to
flat vs raised
collar pattern with all the different the lapel tip.
collar
points you can alter.
collar
Notice how moving the breakpoint
seam
shape
Folding the lapel along the roll line will changes the lapel inclination, too.
s

2cm
shape

collar & lapel

point shape, size &
length make it easier to plan lapel shapes as
lapel

you can draw on the wrong side of the

pattern, seeing directly how the final
esign

lapel will look like.

e to d

The following collars will act as

her

4c
examples to get you started.

m
Fold
c.front

breakpoint
inclination
(height)

overlap width

c.front

78 79
 Clover Lapel Collar Peak Lapel Collar

7c
A clover lapel simply means rounded m
A peak lapel is one of the most popular
lapel and collar points. aig
ht
lapel shapes.
2cm str
+1cm
Other than having rounded points, both To draft it, you need to make the outer

round
the collar and the lapel have been edge of the lapel slightly curved. Of
drafted larger, too.

ed
course, the more upward-pointing
peak you’re after, the more you need to
The breakpoint has been kept the

c.front
curve.
same as it was, but the notch has been In this example, the lapel is also 2cm
moved 5cm lower along the roll line,
5c

wider than the original, but that’s

m

m
5c and it’s also larger: 5cm vs. 4cm of the
5cm
optional.
basic collar.
Next, decide the width and length of
the peak. Here it’s 7cm long.

Then modify the neckline shape as

shown, making the first passage
starting from the peak straight and
c.front

1cm

then joining the original seam line.

The collar starts where the peak ends.

In this case, there’s a little space
between the peak and the collar point,
but you can also draw them closer
together.

c.front
Another change made here is to raise
the breakpoint slightly.

80 81
 Wide Notched Collar Flat Roll
(double-breasted) Notched Collar

+2.5cm As with the shawl collars, also the

jacket collar can have a flat roll.

6cm
Here’s a wide notched collar to go with
a double-breasted coat. The collar and You’ll get the look by re-drawing the
lapel points are rounded. collar back so that it’s leaning closer to
6c
m the shoulder line.
Begin by enlarging the button stand to
8cm be 5cm from the c-front, then raise the m 7c
m
Remember to maintain the back
+1c
12c
m breakpoint slightly. neckline length and the right angle.
Here the lapel point is located 12cm You can also use the slash and spread
from the roll line, and due to its method if you prefer.
inclination, the neckline has been
moved upward. In this example, the collar has been
moved upward along the lapel edge,
The collar’s c-back is 2.5cm higher than

c.front
and the lapel is slightly larger than the
c.front

the original, and the collar point is basic notched collar.

almost as long as the lapel.
The lapel has a rounded point, whereas
There’s a relatively narrow notch. the collar doesn’t. The notch is quite
5cm
large.

82 83
 Large Lapel Collar Collar for
Trench Coat

The trench collar has a particular

2. construction that needs to be drafted
1cm
from scratch.
It has a separate crescent-shaped
collar stand behind the neck.
cm
You can also experiment with the collar
+4 and lapel sizes making one more
prominent than the other. In this case, 1. Begin by setting up the bodice.
the lapel has an exaggerated size
compared to the collar. 1. The trench coat is double-breasted, so
add a 6cm extension to the c-front and

c.front
To achieve this look, first add 4cm to mark the breakpoint.
c.front

first
the original lapel, following the button

inclination, as shown. Then, drafting the

new lapel shape from the breakpoint 6cm
2. Extend the front shoulder line 1cm
towards the c-front following the
add 3.5cm going upwards. This shoulder slope inclination and add a
changes the direction of the lapel guide mark.
point. Then draw the roll line between the
breakpoint and this guide mark.
Give a new shape to the neckline,
adapting it to the lapel. 0.5cm
3. 0.5cm
measu
3. Enlarge both the front and back
1cm Finally, move the collar tip 1cm upward, 10cm su
re re neckline by 0.5cm and then measure
ea
+3.5c

as shown. m them both. The collar will start at the c-

4. front line, so only measure the front
m

neckline, excluding the button stand.

4. Draft the lapel, continuing straight

c.back
c.front
c.front

from the c-front point of the neckline

by 10cm, for example. Unite the lapel
tip to the breakpoint.
Copy the facing piece: see the dashed
line.

84 85
 1. To draft the collar, begin by drafting
a rectangle where the length is half of
your neck measurement from the
bodice and the height is collar and
1. 1/2 neck measurement collar stand height put together at the
2,5cm c-back. For example, 9cm.
2.
collar+
collar
stand
height,
2. Then, add a 2.5cm collar tip at the
for
example
90°
upper right corner and raise the lower
9cm 3cm collar
stand 1cm
right corner by 1cm. Unite the collar tip
4,5cm
to this point.
3.
3. Mark a notch at 4.5cm from the
lower right corner and separate the
collar stand as shown. In this example,
it’s 3cm high at the c-back and ends at
the notch you just added.
Now you can also complete the collar
shape.

4. Draw two vertical lines across the

rectangle before separating the collar
and collar stand.

Chapter 6
4. Add volume to the upper edge of the
collar piece with the slash and spread
open method to make it slightly curved.
1cm
Adjust the lines.
Detachable Collars
Remove volume from the lower edge
of the collar stand to make it curved.
Adjust the lines. Then flip the collar
Flip aro neckline
stand around, as the upper edge will
und: nec
kline o
n this si
de
be sewn to the neckline of the coat
and the lower edge to the collar.

overlap Part of the collar’s lower edge will also

4mm
be sewn to the coat neckline: together
with the collar stand it will cover the
whole neckline.

Check the lengths and then mirror the

pieces. Add notches.
c.back

collar: cut 2 +
interfacing

e necklin
necklin e
collar stand:
cut 2 + interfacing
c.b.

neckline

86 87
 Detachable Peter Pan
Collar with ruffles

The final collar group includes detachable

collars and separate neckpieces. You can make
these in fancy fabrics and wear them like
statement jewelry.
This collar has a large Peter Pan style

c.f.

c.back
For a couple of them, you’ll need the basic collar with edge ruffles attached to the
stand-up collar pattern. lower edge of a stand-up collar.

ck
Place the front and back bodice

ba
3cm

c.
+ seam & hem
allowance pattern pieces aligned at the shoulder-
line and draft the Peter Pan collar on

m
top. Consider the ruffle height when

8c
choosing the size (here: 3cm).

2x outer edge measurement

1.5cm from c.f. 9cm
The ruffle should arrive at the edge of
the 1.5cm button extension that the

e
ur
14c
stand-up collar has. Therefore, in this

as
m

me
case, the collar starts at 1.5cm from the
c-front.

c.front
You can also draw rounded points.

Measure the outer edge of the collar to

draft the rectangular ruffle pattern.
You can either make the ruffle double
the length as the collar edge or less.

Trace the basic stand-up collar piece

using the exact neckline measurement

cutonfold
c.b:
as you did with the Peter Pan collar so
ruffle: cut 1
they’ll match.
Mark the button placement at the c-
ruffle
collar:
cut 2
front and mirror the pattern.

Stand-up collar: You can also make this without the

c.b.
cut 2+interfacing
stand-up collar and add a ribbon
closure to the front instead.

88 89
 Detachable Jabot
Collar final size:
The pattern for the base is a rectangle
where the width is twice the final width

fold here
13x7cm
as it will be folded in half.

Here, the width is 14cm and the height

is 13cm.

Mark the button and jabot placement

on the collar pattern, and mirror it.
In this case, it’s easier to make the
grainline vertical.

This Jabot collar has three layers of

c.b
.
c.b

.
ruffles on a rectangular base, attached cut coll
2+in ar:
to a stand-up collar with a button terf
acin
g

closure at the c-back.

c.f.
You can also use lace for the ruffles.

Draft the stand-up collar pattern and

instead of an overlap at the c-front, add
a 1cm overlap to the c-back.

jabot

cut 1
base:
+1cm

fold
here
c.back

Decide how large you’d like the ruffle

base to be, and plan the ruffle pieces
accordingly. Here it’s 7 x 13cm.

The first ruffle is attached to the upper

edge of the base (the pink rectangle)
and the third ruffle to the hemline of ruffle 1:
the base. cut 1

ruffle 1
The middle ruffle starts 3cm under the
hemline of the first ruffle to hide the
8cm ruffle 1 ruffle
seam.
ruffle 2 1 Make it 3cm longer than the hemline of
3cm the base to cover the seam of the third ruffle 2-3:
ruffle ruffle. cut 2
2x base width
ruffle 3 2 The third ruffle then has the same
3cm length as the second ruffle to make the
11cm ruffle 2-3 ruffle jabot symmetrical.
3
The width of the ruffles could be, for
example, double the width of the base.

90 91
 Neck Ruffle Pleated
Neck Ruffle

Here’s a pleated version of the neck

ruffle. It only has one layer of box
pleats.

You’ll need your neck circumference

This neck ruffle has two layers in measurement divided in half and the
here: 11cm

different heights gathered in the center, Ca 2cm height for the ruffle. The pattern covers
and a ribbon sewn on top that acts as a only half of the neck but you’ll get the
closure. other half when you cut it on the fold.
neck circumference measurement x 1.7
Measure your neck circumference, Draft this rectangle using the two
here: 6cm

here: 10cm
avoiding too snug a fit. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 measurements and divide it evenly into
CA 2cm (at least) wide slots.
Then decide on the two ruffle heights.
Here they are 11 and 6cm. Add the hem Number the slots and add pleat
allowance on both sides if you prefer. neck circumference measurement/ 2 allowance between each. In this case,
4cm. At the c-front, you’ll only need to
Calculate the neck circumference add half of it, 2cm, as it will be cut on
multiplied by 1.7 to get the ruffle length. the fold.
gather to neckline measurement Now you have the two measurements Add notches for the pleats and decide
needed to draft the ruffle patterns. the point you want the ribbon to be
attached to.
gather to neckline measurement The ribbon needs to be long enough to
go around your neck and tie a bow.

Here the gathering has been de-

centered when it comes to the larger

c.front
4cm 4cm
1 4cm
2 3 4 4cm
5 6 7 8 9

2cm
4cm 4cm 4cm 4cm
ruffle to make one side wider.

cut on fold
c.front:
Stith
here
& attach
ribbon

92 93
 Paneled Neck Corset
Divide the pieces evenly into three
panels. Add a 1cm overlap along the c-
back line so that you’ll be able to

c.back
create a closure.

c.front
1cm
overlap
At this point, trace the panels and
make a toile to try the neck corset on.
Adjust it to your neck with pins, and
then make the required changes to the
original pattern.

You’ll probably need to carve the

pieces as shown here. You can also
adjust the fit, making the neckline

c.back
opening smaller or larger, or add more
height.

c.front
This basic neck corset pattern consists
5cm 5cm
of panels that can be shaped to your
4.5cm 4.5cm 5cm neck. The idea is to first make an
approximate draft and then adjust it
6cm with the toile

You’ll get the initial pattern shape from

the basic bodice pieces.. The
c.back

construction is similar to the stovepipe

c.front

neckline.
cut 4 of each
Raise the c-front and c-back line by the The grainline follows the center of
desired amount, here 6 and 5cm each panel to make them look
respectively. symmetrical. Otherwise, you could
4 follow the c-front and c-back lines.

c.back
Then raise the neckline at the shoulder
by 4.5cm with a straight line. Mark a 3 5 Cut two layers to create a lining.
6
notch 5cm away along the shoulder

c.front
line, both front, and back. 2
10cm 0cm 1
1
10cm

Draft the new neckline with the help of

the various guide marks you added,
10cm

making the shoulder curve identical for

the front and back pieces.

Decide how large you want the neck

c.back
c.front

corset to be and draft the rounded

hemline.

Copy the two pieces.

94 95
 Pleated Neckpiece Sculptural Neckpiece

Using the previous neck corset pattern,

you can create other kinds of
neckpieces, too. For example, here’s a
pleated version.
c.back

You can also create this sculptural

Trace the pattern and draw lines where neckpiece from the neck corset
you’d like the pleats to be. pattern by adding more height and
c.front

2.5cm
2cm
volume to the upper part of the panels.
2cm 3

Then, add pleat allowance between

c.front
the sections. You can add a maximum 2
of twice as much as the distance Trace the individual panels and add, for
between the sections so that the pleats 1 example, 2.5cm of extra height and
won’t become overlapped. 2cm of additional width to both sides of
each as shown here.
Add the pleat allowance at a right
angle, and don’t trim the sides until 4
c.back

Cut two layers to get a lining, too.

c.front

you’re done.

c.back
5
Then fold the knife pleats, add seam 6
allowance, and cut the sides with the
pleats folded. This way, you get the
correct pleat allowance shape.

Mark notches for the pleats. Add an

overlap to the c-back. 3
The grainline should either follow the

c.front
pleats’ direction or be perpendicular to 2
it. 1
c.back

You can use the original pattern

c.front

(without pleats) as a lining.

3 4 5
2 6

c.back
4
1
5
6

96 97
 Here you’ll find tips on adding seam allowance
and how to sew the most common types of

Chapter 7
collars.
Refer to this chapter also if you encounter
problems with the collar fit.
Tips & Troubleshooting

98 99
 About seam allowance How to sew the collars

Non convertible Collars

0.7cm
When you draft your own patterns, you
collar will be responsable for adding the This category of collars simply has two
0.7cm 0.7cm seam allowance. layers to be sewn right-side together
c.back

cut 2 +interfacing

0.7cm
along the outer edge.
You might be wondering what kind of Trim any corners and notch round
0.7cm seam allowance to add to the collar sections before turning them right side
collar stand patterns. out. Then, press the collar.
c.back

cut 2 +interfacing

1cm
If you don’t have a personal preference The easiest way to attach this collar to
already, try this: the neckline is to have a lining or a
facing. This way, you place the collar

k
ac
c.b
Add 0.7cm to the outer edge of the along the right side of the neckline,

c.b
ac
0.7cm
collars and 1cm to the neckline. right side up, and then place the facing

k
stand-up collar:
c.back

You will need to trim away excess right side down on top. Pin and stitch.
cut 2 + interfacing

1cm
seam allowance from the collar before
turning the right side out anyway, so Trim the seam allowance to 0.5cm and
why not add a smaller seam allowance make clips to the round sections. Press
to begin with? the seam allowance towards the facing
peter pan collar:

and understitch near the seam.

cut 4 + interfacing

1cm
0.7cm The same 0.7cm seam allowance also Then press the facing to the wrong
goes for the jackets’ lapel and c-front side.
seam, meaning both the facing and the
front bodice pattern. Stand Collars
1cm 1cm
c.

The 0.7cm seam allowance works with The following refers to the actual
b.
c.
b.

1cm
the seam between collars and collar stand-up collars.
1cm
stands, too.
0.7cm
0.7cm Place the right sides of the two layers
Here you can see various examples. together, matching the c-back notches,
1cm
and start sewing 1cm from the
neckline. Also, stop 1cm before
shawl collar facing:
cut 2 + interfacing

reaching the neckline at the other end.

This will make it easier to attach the
c.front

1cm 1cm
collar to the neckline.

1cm Trim the corners before turning the

1cm
1cm right side out. Press the collar.
1cm

0.7cm Then, pin the upper collar (which has

0.7cm 1cm the interfacing) to the right side of the
0.7cm neckline, matching the shoulder and c-
jacket front:
cut

: back notches, and sew.

: on fold
c.back

llar
r cofacing
cut 2

ppe
u inter
cut 2 + interfacing

1cm
front facing:

0.7cm 1+
cut Press the seam allowance towards the
1cm
1cm
collar and press the undercollar’s seam
c.front

0.7cm allowance inside .

c.back

r: cing
lltaerfa
Pin it along the inside of the neckline
o 1cm
rc in and stitch near the edge. You may also
0.7cm de 2 +
un cut hand stitch if you prefer.
1cm

100 101
 Shirt Collars Shawl Collars
Now you have the collar and collar Close the c-back seams of the two
stand pieces. collar layers.
Begin by sewing the right sides of the Pin the facing to the bodice front piece,
collar pieces together along the outer continuing around the collar from
edge. Try to make the two sides as hemline to hemline. Match the c-back
identical as possible. seams.
Next, trim the corners and turn the
right side out. Press. Stitch and then press, moving the
seam slightly towards the bodice side
Optional: topstitch around the collar around the collar. (Remember that
edge. extra width added to the facing?)
Then, sandwich the collar between the Sew the shoulder seams and clip the
two collar stand pieces, placing the corners.
interfaced layers on the same side. The
collar should be sewn between the If there’s a lining, attach it to the facing
notches you marked on the collar at this point and sew the shoulder
stand. Also, match the c-back notches. seams.
Start sewing 1cm from the neckline Then, attach the undercollar to the
and stop 1cm before reaching the bodice back neckline, right sides
neckline at the other end to make it together.
easier to attach the collar. Press the seam allowance towards the
collar and press the uppercollar’s seam
Trim the collar stand corners and turn allowance under .
the right side out. Press.
Pin it to the inside of the back neckline
Topstitch below the previous seam to and stitch near the edge.
flatten the seam allowance.

Pin the outer edge of the collar stand

(without interfacing) to the shirt
neckline, matching the notches, right
sides together, and stitch.

Press the seam allowance towards the

collar and press the undercollar’s seam
allowance inside.
Then pin it along the inside of the
neckline and stitch near the edge. You
may also hand stitch if you prefer.

102 103
 Jacket Collars
e Close the shoulder seams and press.
Sew the c-back seam of the s id
undercollar and press the seam open. t
gh Pin the undercollar to the bodice
Ri neckline, right sides together, matching
Pin the outer edge of the upper and
the c-back notch and the shoulder

lar
undercollars right sides together and
notches. Sew and press the seam

her rcol
stitch, starting from where the collar
allowance towards the collar.

e
sideunde
will be attached to the lapel.

ach
Trim the corners before turning the If there’s a lining, this is the last

att
right side out. Press. Match the lower moment to attach the front lining to the
edges of the collar pieces while facing and sew the shoulder seams.
pressing, and the seam will roll towards
the undercollar. Then sew the upper collar to the facing
rcoll
a r side edge of the front neckline on both
unde
Sew the facing to the front piece right sides. The stitching should start
sides together. Stop sewing where the precisely at the same point as the
collar will be attached. undercollar to create a smooth result.
Trim the lapel corners before turning Trim some excess seam allowance
the right side out. Press. The seam around the notch to remove bulk.
should move towards the bodice side
e Press the seam allowance towards the
of the lapel due to the extra width sid collar and fold the back neckline
added to the facing.
ong section of the upper collar inside.
r Topstitch the back neckline near the
W
edge to attach the upper collar.

Now you still need to attach the two

collar layers together along the front
neckline by ”stitching in the ditch”.
attach
Upper collar
here
It’s easier to sew this part by hand.

104 105
 The stand-up collar is too open.
Troubleshooting
In this case, you can curve it more so

c.b.
the upper edge will move closer to the
neck.
Try slashing the pattern around the
overlap
shoulder notch from the top towards
Here are some common collar pattern the neckline and then overlap the top
measu
issues and suggestions for resolving edge by up to 5 millimeters. Adjust the

c.b.
e re
ur
m
e as
them. lines.

The collar is too tight.

The collar edge is too tight and
You need to correct first the bodice is not turning nicely.
neckline the collar is attached to. You
c.front

c.back
outer edge
can enlarge it at the c-front and You need to add more volume to the
towards the side. Try enlarging 1cm in outer edge of the collar. If you want to
each direction. know exactly how much to add, you
can make a toile and make a few
Measure the new neckline and add the slashes to the c-back and around the
required amount of length to the collar shoulders. You’ll see how much the
pattern. For the back neckline you can collar edge wants to open. Measure
simply add length to the c-back. and make the changes to the collar
For the front neckline, you can slash pattern.
the collar pattern after the shoulder 90°
c.b.

c.b.

add add
notch and add the required amount. Otherwise, you can guess and add
Then adjust the lines. some extra volume randomly along the
c.b.

c.b.

90° c-back line and at a few other points as

For shirt collars, make the same well. You’ll see the collar piece become
changes both to the collar and the more curved.
collar stand pattern.
The collar edge is wavy.
The collar is too loose.
re
measu
re In this case the collar edge is too long

c.b.
eas
u
In this case, you need to reduce the and you need to remove some volume.
m
bodice neckline first. Continue the
shoulder line towards the c-front and Again, you can make a toile and pin the
c-back to reduce the neckline width. excess volume. Then measure how
If the c-front line is particularly low, you much to remove from the pattern.
can raise that, too.
Or remove a random amount of
c.front

c.back

Measure the new neckline and remove volume. You can make slashes from
the required amount of length from the the collar’s outer edge towards the
collar pattern. For the back neckline ov inner edge and then overlap the
you can simply remove length from the er sections. Adjust the lines.

c.b.
la
c-back. p
For the front neckline, you can slash

ove
and overlap the collar pattern after the

rlap
shoulder notch to remove the required If you have other issues with the collar
amount. Then adjust the lines. patterns, you can email me at
[email protected] and we’ll
c.b.

c.b.

overlap remove For shirt collars, make the same see how to resolve.
changes both to the collar and the
c.b.

c.b.

collar stand pattern.

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106 107