147-Article Text-313-1-10-20181121
147-Article Text-313-1-10-20181121
147-Article Text-313-1-10-20181121
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
in the modern fashion system and base it as − distributors of the fashion system
an integrated concept of fashion behavior in objects;
modern consumer society. In addition, the − movement direction the of fashion
main functional categories of the fashion innovation in society;
system as a concept of fashion behavior in the − spreading speed of the fashion
modern consumer society are considered in innovation.
the paper. Accordingly, it has been determined that
Research results. In the above concepts, all characterized concept of the spread of
which characterize the formation and fashion innovations have their cause-and-
occurrence of fashion innovations, directions effect relationships and the motives for the
of the spread of fashion trends and their emergence and development of fashion
driving force were described, but today, due trends. On their basis, theories of fashion were
to the democratization of society, many created, which substantiated the factors of
alternative sources and directions of their existence and the reasons for changes in
movement have appeared. In particular, in fashionable clothes and accessories, as well as
modern consumer society, there are many standards of beauty in a costume and image
social groups with their own ways of of a person. Consequently, according to the
spreading fashion innovations, and the class empirical analysis of the functioning of
concept of the “elite of society” has become fashion system, conducted in this study, the
the «elite» of individual social or professional concepts considered classical in the fashion
groups and in essence it has ceased to be a scientific rationale are based on the
closed class, taking representatives of other emergence and spread of fashion innovations
social groups. [4; 5]. in society [16]. Each of them describes one or
However, we have determined that the another aspect that prevails in certain
basic mechanisms of fashion distribution are segments or concerns certain groups of
the desire of consumers to imitate and participants in the fashion process (Table 1).
individualize at the same time, as well as a Accordingly, in order to scientifically
constant search for updates that make these substantiate such a complex phenomenon as
concepts viable today, in today's globalized a modern fashion system, in this paper, the
consumer society and fashion systems as principles of the integrated process of the
patterns of conduct and the spread of trends fashion innovation emergence and
in this society. development in society have been formulated
Thus, as practice and previous studies and presented in Table 2. According the
show, the application of concepts of information presented in this table, sources of
distribution of fashion innovations is possible, fashion innovations include:
and expedient, since they contribute to the − fashion designers working in the
compilation of actual forecasts for consumer «haute couture» and «prêt-a-porte de lux»
expectations for all subjects of the fashion segment, show business (designers serving
system. In the study, the following criteria customers with a taste for demonstrative
which are fundamental to understanding the consumption);
communicative mechanisms of the fashion − designers working in the sector of
system have been chosen to characterized the fashion product duplication (from pret-a-
mentioned concepts (Table 1): porter to the mass market)
− sources of fashion innovations; − society majority deprived of
− trendsetters of the fashion system individuality («anonymous crowd», subcultural
objects; groups).
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
Table 1
The well-known theories of the emergence and development of fashion innovations
«Demonstra-
«Horizontal «Trickle – «Collective
Categories «Trickle-down» tive
distribution» up» selection»
of concept theory by consumption»
theory by theory by D. theory by
existence G. Zimmel theory by
Ch. King Field H. Blumer
T. Veblen
impersonal
fashion designers
majority of
designers serving working in the
society
1. Sources of the client with segment «haute
subcultural («anonymous
fashion taste for designers couture» та «prêt-
groups crowd»)
innovations demonstra-tive a-porte de lux»,
consumption representatives of
show business
3. Distributors
"Elite" of society,
of Media and
public figures and
the fashion early followers innovators innovators thought
celebrities, mass
system leaders
media
objects
collective
4. Movement impersonal
choice from a
direction the horizontal from the lower motive principle
top down social multitude of
of fashion movement within class of society of fashion within
stairs alternatives
innovation in the social segment to the upper the «elits» of
among the
society social strata
social strata
depends on the
depends on
depends on the sensitivity of
how quickly a
ability of the the professional
5. Spreading as cheaper majority
lowest class to fast and leaders of the
speed of the recognized chooses and
see and copy simultaneous for fashion system
fashion standards - takes on
new fashion all social strata objects and the
innovation market saturation alternatives
trends of the activity of the
that are
upper class strata subcultural
dominant
groups
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
An example of this is adoption by certain follow all the fashion trends and thus form
fashion designers working in the segment of fashion standards. In addition, at the stage of
«haute couture» and «prêt-a-porte de lux» the formation of fashion as a system, at the
(such as W. Westwood, J.P. Gaultier, beginning of the 20th century, there was one
G. Versace, etc.) of certain features and dominant fashion trend, which had its life
images, worldview peculiarities or externals of cycle, and after its completion, was changed
many subcultures, informal communities, as by the next trend.
well as street fashion. According to the Such consistent changeability of trends,
aesthetic tastes of their time, they bring these in particular, was due to the mono-vector
images to the level of high fashion and give development of society (including the
them the status of fashion objects [13]. Such financial capabilities of the elite in the
fashion objects tend to favorably distinguish purchase and consumption of fashion
their owners from the rest of society, although products), the creation of fashion objects
they are often not adapted for functional use according to the principles that nowadays
and are aimed at demonstrating fashion characterize the "high fashion" (individuality
innovations to a potential broad consumer by of models, the creation of almost sculptural
means of show business or mass media. Then, forms by their architectonics and the
overgrown with the most characteristic uniqueness of the technology of hand-made
figurative and stylistic properties, these and decoration), as well as their distribution in
objects (fashionable costume and fashionable the society in accordance with mass media
image) are widely publicized in the media [14]. development of that time.
It is in this way, the fashion objects created for The concept of «social elite» has a
the social elite acquire the status of fashion broader meaning nowadays. It includes
standards requiring the recognition and use celebrities of politics, sports, representatives
by a general population. of art and show business, while their authority
Another functional category of the for the population masses is not due to their
fashion system as an integrated concept of belonging to the aristocracy or financial and
the emergence and development of fashion power structures. In modern society, it is
innovations in a society is the characterization accepted to call the elite people who stand on
of the trendsetters (Table 2). As defined in the the highest levels of achievements in a certain
study, in modern consumer society, they are: professional or Bohemian-secular activity and
− famous and bright people who as a result are public and authoritative people
demonstrate new objects of the fashion in matters of the dissemination of fashion
system, as a rule, this is an upper society class; trends. At the same time, they can belong to
− professional leaders of new objects of both the upper or middle class, and
the fashion system, who made a choice from subcultural groups [17].
the proposals of designers; So, the fashion industry produces more
− bohemia and public figures of the and more fashion products, and in the
upper and middle class. conditions of tough competition, their
Thus, the role of trendsetters of the assessment does not always achieve the
fashion system objects was assigned by the desired results [11]. The attraction of famous
first researchers of fashion as the norm of people presenting new objects of the fashion
social behavior to representatives of the system, as well as representatives of bohemia,
higher strata of society, as people who, on the who publicly demonstrate their commitment
one hand, were celebrities, and on the other, not only to individual fashion products, but
their financial capabilities allowed them to also to their creators that are part of the
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
fashion system, promotes the creation and trendsetters of the fashion objects and
strengthening of successful brands. products, and in this status they form not only
Such popularity among average public tastes, but also their own image. The
consumers of fashion products and trends reason and purpose of this activity is the fact
often extols popular characters associated that the consumers associate creators’ names
with the fashion system to the level of with the products of their creativity. Therefore,
international stars. In order to stimulate and in well-organized brands of the fashion
increase the demand for fashion products, system subjects, the extensively branded
many subjects of the fashion system create system for the of fashion product
their celebrities and trendsetters in the fashion classification is closely interwoven by creating
world. With the help of advertising, they form the image of the company fashion designer or
the image of a corporate hero, combining the designer as a trendsetter of objects in the
realistic features of his individuality and the fashion system.
fictional properties necessary to maintain and Sociologist Y. Kawamura formulated
develop the fashion of the created standards, three requirements to the trendsetter [10,
objects and products. P. 98–99]:
According to researchers J. Ryan and W. − come up with models of clothing for a
Wentworth, in the fashion system, as in selected group of rich women that will be
modern culture as a whole, there are two copied by other groups in a long chain of
strategies that make it possible to create a fashion distribution;
strong relationship between a fashion product − to be the personification of the
consumer and the product itself. [6] The first modern lifestyle;
of them is based on an extensive classification − do everything possible to support the
of the system of products and objects created attractiveness and demand for fashion.
by the fashion system. The second strategy is It is obvious that the modern consumer
based on the creation of the system of of fashion objects is hardly interested in the
persons with whom a consumer associates the degree of personal contribution of the fashion
individuality in mass consumption. Such designer to the production and replication of
individualization, according to the researchers, each fashion product. What really matters to
is intended to form the consumers’ emotional the consumer is how much the creator's
devotion to the same persons, and person is associated with the properties of the
accordingly make them dependent on those fashion object created by him.
fashion products and objects symbolized by In other words, fashion objects are
such a person. [15] This is the psychological those that are originally presented to the
background that lies in the creation and consumer in various forms, and then appear in
strengthening of modern successful brands in the media as well as in designers collections in
the fashion system. stores (as discussed in the previous stages of
Another confirmation of the two-way the study). And just like in any public business
communication between the mechanisms of or cultural production, consumers always
fashion trends formation and the associate fashion objects with the names of
establishment of the object trendsetters in the people interrelated with these objects; people
fashion system is the fact that having ensured who have a wide popularity and are endowed
recognition of their fashion products by with distinctive personality traits and who fall
average consumer, fashion designers also join under the cohort of trendsetter.
the category of professional leaders of new Thus, in the study it has been
fashion objects, that means become determined that the particularity of the
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
modern fashion system, as the concept of the fashion innovations in society can be called
emergence and development of fashion the fact that even not being public figures and
innovations, is that in the context of the not using media resources to promote their
general globalization of mass culture and the tastes and wishes in fashionable clothing, they
shift of emphasis of any kind of activity in the consistently and convincingly, by their own
direction of expanding borders and erosion of example, contribute to the introduction of
the faces between related activities, there was fashion innovations into the minds of the
a principal merger of the roles of trendsetters mass consumer, so to say for the man in the
and distributors of fashion trends in society. street.
In particular, the «social elite», the If trendsetters, fashion designers,
most vivid and active representatives of whom distributors of fashion innovations, bohemian
are often the legislators of fashion and mass media are something distant and
innovations, simultaneously performing inaccessible in the mass consumer’s mind,
functions of the trend distributors, which then innovators and early followers can be
significantly facilitates the development of the considered adherents of fashion innovations
information sphere in the modern world. It into the average consumer’s environment.
also follows from the statement by Y. This gives confidence that fashion innovations
Kawamura, mentioned above, about are becoming part of the society mind, and,
requirements to the trendsetters come up accordingly, its distribution and
with models of clothing for a selected group implementation is inevitable.
of rich women that will be copied by other In addition, it has been determined
groups in a long chain of fashion distribution). that the movement of fashion innovation in the
In other words, the demonstrative modern society (Table 2) is of vital importance
consumption of newfangled objects and in the integral concept of fashion conduct.
fashion products by the «social elite» Thus, each of these areas is endowed with
contributes to the simultaneous formation self-sufficient distribution properties, based
and promotion of these trends, which is on the sources of fashion innovations
strengthened by the participation of mass described above, as well as on the impact of
media of various levels of influence. certain legislators and distributors of fashion
If we take the assumption that all objects. Taking into account the fact that at
categories of subjects of the fashion system the current stage of society development, its
perform interchangeable functions aimed at structure has acquired a complex character,
simulating a modern consumer society in we have to admit that certain fashion
order to satisfy its demonstrative consumer innovations can spread in different directions
needs, then it can be said that the role of for different social groups of the fashion
innovators and early followers (Table 2) will be system subjects.
the same as that of the majority of society, This conclusion can be confirmed by
deprived of individuality, as a source of the success of diffuse brands (as subjects of
fashion innovations or professional the fashion system), which combine the
conductors of new fashion objects, who made development of fashion products for various
a choice from the proposals of designers as consumer groups and develop fashionable
trendsetters of fashion objects. clothes of different classes. Such brands
On the other hand, as the distinctive themselves form fashion standards, develop
feature of innovators and early followers fashion products and contribute to the spread
among all the above-described consumer of fashion innovations in all directions of
categories, who influence the spread of movement almost simultaneously, and,
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
without any doubt, controlling the maximum upmarket products (for example, high
efficiency of acceptance of fashion fashion). This statement is illustrated in many
innovations by consumer (Fig. 1). different ways by the speed of
In addition, it has been described that implementation into production of the fashion
the subjects of the fashion system, which have objects and products of rapid response
a significant impact on its operation and concept – «fast fashion» (Fig. 2). At the same
development, and regulate the spread rate of time, taking into account the extremely
fashion innovations as a functional category in blurred boundaries of the class differentiation
the concept of fashion behavior. In particular, in the modern society, it have been concluded
in the context of the fashion system, it that the speed of development of fashion
depends on the ability of the mass market innovation is not only fast, but equally
(more or less of the lower classes of society) addressed for all social strata.
to see and copy new fashion trends and
Fig.2. Design of a fashion product as the trend implementation in the fashion system [18]
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
and factors of its existence, development modern consumer society, including various
prospects and comprehensive influence on methodological approaches to the description
various aspects of the modern society and structure of its components, presented in
development, the fashion system is an Table 2.
integrated concept of fashion behavior in
Table 2
Fashion system as an integrated concept of the emergence
and development of fashion innovations
– depends on the ability of the lowest class to see and copy new fashion
trends of the upper class strata
– fast and simultaneous for all social strata
5. Spreading speed of – depends on how quickly a majority chooses and takes on alternatives
the fashion innovation that are dominant depends on the sensitivity of the professional
leaders of the fashion system objects and the activity of the
subcultural groups
– as cheaper recognized standards - market saturation
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
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Art and Design №3, 2018
науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
15. Пашкевич К.Л. Теоретичні основи 17. Чуприна Н.В. Принципы формирования
дизайну одягу на засадах тектонічного підходу: и реализации модных тенденций в индустрии
автореф. дис. … д-ра техн. наук: спец. 05.01.03 моды. Известия ВУЗов. Технология
«Технічна естетика» Київ, 2017. 45 с. текстильной промышленности. 2018. № 1
16. Чуприна Н.В. Анализ деятельности (373). С. 123–127
участников модного процесса в условиях 18. Сайт «Spring/Summer 2019 Print Trend
индустрии моды. Известия ВУЗов. Технология Reports – Рatternbank 2019» URL:
текстильной промышленности. 2015. № 2 https://patternbank.com/trend-
(356). С. 95–98. reports/categories/108-spring-summer-2019 (дата
звернення: 29.05.2018).
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науковий фаховий журнал Мистецтвознавство. Технічні науки.
Чупріна Наталія Владиславівна, канд. техн. наук, доцент, доцент кафедри художнього
моделювання костюма, Київський національний університет технологій та дизайну, ORCID
0000-0001-7017-6456, Scopus 56835800000, e-mail: chouprina@ukr.net
Колосніченко Марина Вікторівна, д-р. техн. наук, професор, декан факультету дизайну,
Київський національний університет технологій та дизайну, ORCID 0000-0003-0020-3214,
Scopus 24076493500, e-mail: kolosnichenko.mv@knutd.edu.ua
Цитування за ДСТУ: Chuprina N.V., Kolosnichenko M.V. Substantiation of the fashion system as
the concept of fashion conduct in modern consumer society. Art and design. 2018. №3. P. 9-20.
Citation APA: Chuprina, N.V., Kolosnichenko, M.V. (2018) Substantiation of the fashion system
as the concept of fashion conduct in modern consumer society. Art and design. 3. 9-20.
https://doi.org/10.30857/2617-0272.2018.3.1.
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