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Why Generation Z Still Buy Fast Fashion Although Environmental Awareness Is High?

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Why Generation Z Still Buy Fast Fashion Although Environmental Awareness Is High?

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Scholars Journal of Economics, Business and Management

Abbreviated Key Title: Sch J Econ Bus Manag


ISSN 2348-8875 (Print) | ISSN 2348-5302 (Online)
Journal homepage: https://saspublishers.com

Why Generation Z Still Buy Fast Fashion Although Environmental


Awareness is High?
Evanilay1, Marcellinus Deven Lee1, Millenia1, Ina Agustini Murwani1*
1Management, BINUS Business School Master Program, Bina Nusantara University, Jakarta, Indonesia

DOI: https://doi.org/10.36347/sjebm.2024.v11i09.004 | Received: 18.08.2024 | Accepted: 25.09.2024 | Published: 28.09.2024


*Corresponding author: Ina Agustini Murwani
Management, BINUS Business School Master Program, Bina Nusantara University, Jakarta, Indonesia

Abstract Original Research Article

Although they are known as the generation that is aware of the negative impact of fast fashion to environment,
Generation Z is also known as the avid consumer of fast fashion. This study found that although as expected the higher
the environmental awareness, the more negative attitude toward continuing to purchase fast fashion among Gen Z,
however the relationship is not significant. In other words, the existence of environmental awareness is nothing to do
with the attitude toward continuing to purchase Fast Fashion. Generation Z keep buying fast fashion because their
attitude is positively influenced by the availability of sustainable fashion, trend of fashion and negatively by the function
of the fashion itself. The study is held in Jakarta Metropolitan. Using questionnaire distributed to Gen Z and data analysis
use PLS SEM version 4, the study aims to understand the behaviour that can help reduce the fast fashion waste among
Gen Z.
Keywords: Fast fashion, environmental awareness, attitudes towards continuing to buy fast fashion, availability of
sustainable fashion, fashion trends, function of fashion.
Copyright © 2024 The Author(s): This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
License (CC BY-NC 4.0) which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium for non-commercial use provided the original
author and source are credited.

INTRODUCTION (Niinimäki et al., 2020). Many studies indicate that eco-


friendly and sustainable fashion as a solution to
Fashion Industry has been acknowledged as the environmental problems has recently gained popularity.
second largest producer of carbon emission, along with When consumers believe that they can help solve
the negative social and environmental impacts that environmental problems, they are more inclined to make
include unfair working conditions and produce high green purchasing decisions (Park & Lin, 2020).
carbon emission (Gomes de Oliveira et al., 2022; Bick et
al., 2018). Fast fashion, that contributes the most One of the generation influenced by fast fashion
enormous carbon footprint, can be produced and is Generation Z, young adults who were born after 1996
distributed to the stores within two weeks and have new (Parker & Igielnik, 2020), with age between 18 – 25
items launched every day. In Indonesia, clothing industry years old (Simpson, 2018). In Indonesia, this generation
also has caused both serious environmental and water comprise of 27,94% of the population and the largest
pollution. Textile production has contributed to 29.25% population compared with another cohort. Gen Z also
water pollution in Indonesia alone (Paraschiv et al., pay more attention to social, cultural and environmental
2015). issues (Bhardwaj & Fairhurst, 2010) and requires
business to produce ethical products or services that
The fast fashion model offers consumers new contribute to the well-being of society in general
products at low prices and trendy styles that create sharp (Goldman Sachs, 2016). On the other hand, data also
increase in textile production and fashion consumption shows that this generation is the most consumption-
(Bick et al., 2018). The current business structure of the oriented generation especially in fast fashion items and
fashion industry is based on increasing production and is known for its high purchasing power, hedonism as well
sales, rapid manufacturing, inferior product quality, and as fashion awareness (Williams & Hodges, 2021).
short product life cycles, all of which lead to
unsustainable consumption, rapid material throughput, As environmental awareness grows, so does
significant waste and significant environmental impacts interest in designing and producing eco - friendly

Citation: Evanilay, Marcellinus Deven Lee, Millenia, Ina Agustini Murwani. Why Generation Z Still Buy Fast Fashion 268
Although Environmental Awareness is High? Sch J Econ Bus Manag, 2024 Sep 11(9): 268-274.
Evanilay et al, Sch J Econ Bus Manag, Sep, 2024; 11(9): 268-274

clothing (Delieva & Eom, 2019). Most of the studies studies have concerns about the correlation between
discuss about the relationship between environmental environmental awareness and green purchase. Although
awareness and green purchase (Abeysekera et al., 2022; other research such as Song et al., (2020) and Xu et al.,
Song et al., 2020); the mediation effect of environmental (2020) have revealed that environmental awareness has
awareness on eco-labelling to purchases, and the effect proven to have a significant influence on attitude, limited
of product attribute, eco-labelling on green purchase research has been addressed in the context of fast
(Song et al., 2020) and positive relationship between fashion. Most of these studies concentrated only from the
environmental awareness to pro-environmental green or sustainable products context. For example, Xu
behaviour (Al-kumaim et al., 2021). et al., (2020) had discussed the effect of environmental
awareness to forecast the attitude of customers toward
However, consumers ' attitudes when making green furniture, and they also showed that environmental
purchasing decisions are irrational and not always in line awareness is able to increase customers' intention to
with their values (Vehmas et al., 2018). Zhang et al., purchase green products. Lin & Niu (2018) also noted
(2021) found that sustainability alone is not enough to that customers with high environmental awareness and
bring about the necessary adjustments in consumers' knowledge have more intention to purchase green
clothing purchases because of three reasons: first, products than customers with low environmental
sustainable fashion is too demanding, customers' ethical awareness. The relation of environmental awareness
concerns are too diverse, and clothing is not an altruistic toward the attitude of buying fast fashion remains
purchase. Vehmas et al., (2018) found that sustainable ambiguous. This leads to uncertainty whether
fashion is not a priority for young customers, and they environmental awareness influences customers' attitude
continue to buy fast fashion despite strongly supporting toward purchasing fast fashion and suggests the need for
the concept. Many customers care more about their own further study. Given the discussion above, the hypothesis
fashion needs than the requirements of others in the was
apparel supply chain. The limited availability of clothing H1: Environmental awareness has a negative significant
items elicits a loss aversion reaction in consumers and relationship to the attitude toward continuing to buy fast
stimulates buying (Harris et al., 2016). Begum Ersoy & fashion.
Fu (2021) found that fast fashion has also changed the
relationship between quality and quantity. Musova et al., The effectiveness of sustainability action has
(2021) found that barriers were uncovered at the become an important consideration for many companies
individual, social and cultural levels, as well as within (Chang & Jai, 2015). In the fashion industry,
the clothing industry. sustainability is utilized in a variety of ways. It refers to
a company's social, environmental, and financial
This study aimed to investigate how strong characteristics (Kong et al., 2016). Khare et al., (2020)
environmental awareness influence is on the attitude found that a few factors influenced people's decisions to
toward continuing purchase fast fashion when other purchase fashion, one such factor is the availability of
factors exist at the same time. More specifically, this sustainable fashion products. The term "availability"
study focus was to examine the relation between describes how easy a buyer believes they may purchase
environmental awareness, the availability of sustainable or consume a certain sustainable fashion product (Khare
fashion, fashion trends, and function toward the attitude et al., 2020). In the current study, the availability of
to continue purchasing fast fashion. Is their high sustainable fashion products refers to the degree when
environmental awareness can slow them down buying or consumer believes that he or she may acquire the desired
repurchase fast fashion? What are the factors that product in general. Availability can be a crucial thing to
influence Gen Z attitude toward continuously buying fast meet customer demand and ensure that popular items
fashion? remain in stock (Harris et al., 2016). Thus, it can be
argued that the limited availability of sustainable fashion
In general terms, awareness refers to the quality products might be a barrier that will influence consumers
or state of being aware, in this case, environmental continuing buying sustainable fashion products
awareness is an essential factor in promoting sustainable (Bósquez et al., 2023). Based on the literature review
behaviour or practices that emphasize awareness of the above, the following hypothesis was proposed
environmental problems as well as solutions to these H2: The availability of sustainable fashion has a
problems (Paradewari et al., 2018). However, due to its negative significant relationship to attitude toward
interpretations strongly relying on an individual's continuing to buy fast fashion.
ideology, a consensus regarding its precise definition has
not yet been reached. Al-kumaim et al., (2021) indicates The term “fashion trend” refers to the aspects of
that environmental awareness is a multidimensional the appearance and construction of fashion products that
construct, which consists of environmental concern, are associated with a particular period. In the realm of
environmental knowledge, and environmental attitude. fashion, trend making fashion as a lifestyle unit, which is
Al-kumaim et al., (2021) found that individuals with a driven by the ease exchanging reference and information
high level of environmental awareness are more likely to from outside making the exchange of fashion trends
behave in an environmentally friendly manner. Many change globally. Fashion trends can be influenced by

© 2024 Scholars Journal of Economics, Business and Management | Published by SAS Publishers, India 269
Evanilay et al, Sch J Econ Bus Manag, Sep, 2024; 11(9): 268-274

several forming factors such as mass media, culture, needs such as: comfort, quality, price and functionality-
economic conditions and the role of an individual in a focused consumers value need over want. Al-kumaim et
social group (Kim et al., 2022). New paradigms of trend al., (2021) used the term clothing function to identify
emergence have been developed because of consumer multiple purposes of clothing. They categorized the
driven fashion trends and continuous social media functions of these garments as fashion, camouflage,
monitoring, which can help brands in identifying their individuality, comfort and safety. Most people bought
core value. With the existence of fashion trends, clothing because of the function itself represents as one
companies can create separate market segments which in of the basic physiological needs which provides comfort
turn result in consumer purchasing decisions (Cruz and and protection from unpleasant external influences
Manata, 2020). Trend is a way for individuals to show (Antonela et al., 2014). It is important that the clothes
their existence, which makes them compete to follow the someone wears are suitable for the current situation and
current trend and become a trend seller. Previous conditions so as not to cause problems and to be able to
research by Arsita (2022) indicated that young customers function accordingly. Customers can acquire functional
have a higher propensity to adopt new style fashion than values that increase their satisfaction (Ahn & Back,
other mature customers. Breward (1994) posited that the 2019). For example, if a person experiences positive
tendency of an individual who wants to follow fashion quality despite the price, they might be satisfied with the
trends, will influence the purchase decision process or products.
attitude toward buying fashion products. Based on those
theories, it can be concluded that a fashion trend One study discusses the relationship between
occurring in a group can encourage someone to act or function and other values and demographic
direct to a new lifestyle behaviour, by deciding to buy a characteristics. Morganosky (1987) shows that the
certain product. Hence the following hypothesis is functions of fashion and individual clothing are not
developed. significantly related to the use of clothing to change
H3: Fashion trends have a positive significant mood. If people have high functionality when buying
relationship to the attitude toward continuing to buy fast clothes, it would be reasonable to assume that function
fashion. contributes positively to the attitude toward buying fast
fashion. Hence, the hypothesis was
Function is the use of a thing or the ability of H4: The function of clothing has a positive significant
the item to meet or satisfy human needs. According to relationship to attitude toward continuing to buy fast
Ahn & Back (2019), functional value refers to tangible fashion.

Fig. 1: Conceptual framework

MATERIALS AND METHODOLOGY and Setyaningtyas (2021); environmental awareness was


Item measurements were adopted from measured through its dimensions which were
previous studies and developed to the context of current environmental concern, environmental knowledge and
studies which is to find out more about the people's environmental attitude. Item measurements taken from
reasons toward their attitude of continuing to buy fast Mohiuddin et al., (2018 and Dhir et al., (2021);
fashion. Attitude toward continuing to buy fast fashion availability of sustainable fashion was measured by 5
were measured using 5 items from Song & Shin (2017) items from Marde and Verite-Masserot (2016); fashion
© 2024 Scholars Journal of Economics, Business and Management | Published by SAS Publishers, India 270
Evanilay et al, Sch J Econ Bus Manag, Sep, 2024; 11(9): 268-274

trend measurements from Marde & Verite-Masserto requirement. 61% of the respondents were female and
(2016) and Zhou et al., (2020) and functions by 5 times 39% male. 97% of the respondents are aware of the fast
from Morganosky (1987) and Ahn & Back (2019). All fashion term, 99% bought fast fashion products, along
measurement used a five–point Likert scale which ranges with 96% knew the negative impact of fast fashion on the
from “1 = strongly agree”, to “5 = strongly disagree” environment.

The survey was divided into two sections: the Data was analysed using SmartPLS 4.0.
first section of the questionnaire is demographic Because of the existence of Environmental Awareness
information questions such as gender, age, expenses, and dimensions (Environmental Concerns, Environmental
domicile. The second section measured each one of the Knowledge, Environment Attitude), a two-step analysis
variables which includes environmental awareness and was applied to this variable, before bootstrapped it for
its dimensions, attitude, availability of sustainable hypothesis. The inner model were tested using 5,000
fashion, fashion trend, and function. The survey samples, one tailed bootstrapping.
questionnaire used Indonesian language. The sample was
Generation Z, age 18 - 25 years old in Greater Jakarta, RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Indonesia, from middle upper class and were aware All of the item’s measurement is valid and
about the impact of the fashion industry to the reliable and met Construct Validity as shown in table
environment. This study used a judgemental sampling. below.
Of 163 responses, only 148 respondents that met the

Table 1: Validity, Cronbach Alpha, Average Variance Extracted, Composite Reliability


Item Measurements Outer
Loading
Attitude (α = 0.916, AVE = 0.747, CR = 0.937)
1. I often get tired of existing trends of clothes and buy a new trend of clothe 0.848
2. I like trendy clothes 0.864
3. I often buy new clothes 0.874
4. I think continuing buying fast fashion are good 0.847
5. I like buying fast fashion 0.889
Environmental Concern (α = 0.937, AVE = 0.788, CR = 0.949)
1. I am concerned about worsening the environmental pollution 0.834
2. I am concerned about the waste produced by fashion industry 0.946
3. I am worried about the future environmental quality 0.876
4. I try to buy clothes that can be recycle 0.869
5. Using sustainable fashion brand is a primarily means to reduce pollution 0.910
Environmental Knowledge (α = 0.938, AVE = 0.795, CR = 0.951)
1. I am very knowledgeable about environmental issues caused by fashion industry 0.841
2. I know how to select clothing brand that can reduce the amount waste ending up in landfills 0.890
3. Using sustainable fashion brand is a primarily means to reduce pollution 0.906
4. Using sustainable fashion products is a substantial way to reduce the wasteful use of natural resource 0.900
5. Using sustainable fashion products is a great way to conserve natural resources 0.917
Environmental Attitude (α = 0.957, AVE = 0.853, CR = 0.967)
1. Promoting in using sustainable fashion is important 0.908
2. Raising environmental protection awareness is important among young adults 0.928
3. I believe when I use of sustainable fashion products, it will help in reducing pollution and also help in 0.931
improving the environment
4. I believe when I use of sustainable fashion products, it will help in conserving natural resources 0.922
5. I believe when I use of sustainable fashion products, it will help in reducing the wasteful use of natural 0.929
resources
Availability (α = 0.886, AVE = 0.687, CR = 0, 916)
1. I find that Sustainable fashion is insufficiently available for purchase 0.854
2. I think it difficult to find sustainable fashion near me 0.868
3. The lack of availability of Sustainable fashion is often a problem 0.764
4. I think there are less and less shelves dedicated to sustainable fashion 0.786
5. In purchasing sustainable fashion, you do not always have a choice 0.865
Fashion Trend (α = 0.934 =, AVE = 0.793, CR = 0.950)
1. I like fast fashion design 0.873
2. By wearing fast fashion clothes, I fell up to date 0.903
3. Fast fashion always change new clothes design or style within a certain period of time 0.906
© 2024 Scholars Journal of Economics, Business and Management | Published by SAS Publishers, India 271
Evanilay et al, Sch J Econ Bus Manag, Sep, 2024; 11(9): 268-274

Item Measurements Outer


Loading
4. Fashion trend keeps up with the time 0.851
5. I can express myself by following the fashion trend 0.918
Function (α = 0.892, AVE = 0.736, CR = 0.917)
1. I would rather buy clothing that is comfortable, even if they are not the most pleasing ones to look at 0.836
2. When buying a coat, I get the most comfortable one, even if it’s not the newest style 0.901
3. Considering the cost, I prefer to buy clothing that provide a lot of benefit 0.851
4. Sustainable fashion offer a better value for money than other fashion industry 0.810
5. Buying some clothing was affordable 0.861

Hypotheses testing revealed that all hypotheses understand and highly aware with environmental
were rejected, except for the positive influence of fashion awareness, it will not guarantee that they will have
trends on attitude toward continuing to buy fast fashion. attitude to stop buying fast fashion or continue to
Besides that, trend of fashion could be said as the main continue to buy fast fashion. The level of prediction is
predictor for attitude toward continuing to buy fast very low compared with Fashion Trend.
fashion, as the path coefficient was 0.735 (73.5%). This
finding has confirmed the short periods nature of fashion Surprisingly, availability of sustainable fashion
trends, which in this case reflecting what fast fashion has positive relation on attitude toward continuing to buy
stands for. fast fashion. It can be inferenced that the more people
have access to sustainable fashion, the more they will
Environmental awareness was not significant in continue to buy fast fashion. According to Khare et al.,
negatively influence on attitude toward continuing to buy (2020), the term "availability" describes how easy a
fast fashion, even their prediction is very small (-5.3%). buyer believes they may purchase or consume a certain
As one of the general predictors, environmental sustainable fashion product. However, it did not mention
awareness has been debated in understanding the the influence of other factor such as price to create
consumer’s green purchase and has been discussed in positive attitude. This finding is not the same as the
many studies. (Al-kumaim et al., 2021) Individuals with previous research. This can be the indication that just
a high level of environmental awareness are more likely being sustainable is not enough to move the consumer to
to behave in an environmentally friendly manner. Thus, stop buying fast fashion. Being affordable and
the result in this study suggests that people might sustainable might be the driver.

Table 2: Hypotheses Test


Original Sample Standard T statistics P Remarks
sample (O) mean deviation (|O/STDEV|) values
(M) (STDEV)
Environmental Awareness → Attitude -0,053 0,024 0,062 0,857 0,196 Rejected
Toward Continuing to Buy Fast Fashion
Availability of Sustainable Fashion → 0,191 0,186 0,054 3,497 0,000 Rejected
Attitude Toward Continuing to Buy Fast
Fashion
Trend of Fashion → Attitude Toward 0,735 0,734 0,048 15,322 0,000 Accepted
Continuing to Buy Fast Fashion
Function → Attitude Toward Continuing -0,194 -0,188 0,046 4,201 0,000 Rejected
to Buy Fast Fashion

The other unexpected result was about the Function which is “Sustainable fashion offer a better
function of fashion. Function of fashion significantly value for money than other fashion industry” which was
influenced attitude toward continuing to buy fast fashion, 3.8, it can be concluded that sustainable fashion has not
but in negative way. It was supposed to be a positive met the function of its fashion yet. Although the result is
influence, but the result showed negative influence on not as expected, however, this model can explain 77%
attitude toward continuing to buy fast fashion. As factor that influence attitude toward continuing to buy
Antonela et al., (2014) found the function of fashion fast fashion. And it can be categorized as strong
represent to provide comfort and protection from theoretical model.
unpleasant external influences. The more comfortable
and protection the function, the more people will have Table 3: Value R. Square and R. Adjustment
attitude to stop continuing to buy fashion. The R Square R. Adjustment
interpretation as long as sustainable fashion can meet the Attitude 0.766 0.756
basic fashion function, it can reduce the usage of fast
fashion. Referring to the mean of item that measure
© 2024 Scholars Journal of Economics, Business and Management | Published by SAS Publishers, India 272
Evanilay et al, Sch J Econ Bus Manag, Sep, 2024; 11(9): 268-274

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