​ ​Dale​ ​M.

iPhone​ ​Photography​ ​Notes

What​ ​is​ ​Photography​ ​REALLY?

-Vision,​ ​Imagination,​ ​RESOURCEFULNESS,​ ​Adventure,​ ​and​ ​Originality.

-Visualizing​ ​the​ ​photo​ ​BEFORE​ ​it’s​ ​taken.

-NOT​ ​raw​ ​talent.​ ​It’s​ ​PRACTICED.

-10%​ ​Gear​ ​and​ ​90%​ ​KNOWING​ ​WHAT​ ​TO​ ​LOOK​ ​FOR.

Pre-shooting​ ​Setup
1. Turn​ ​Off​ ​Live​ ​Photo

-Takes​ ​a​ ​1.5​ ​sec​ ​video​ ​BEFORE​ ​and​ ​AFTER​ ​taking​ ​your​ ​photo.

-Takes​ ​up​ ​unnecessary​ ​space​ ​on​ ​your​ ​phone.

-Turn​ ​it​ ​off:​ ​Camera​ ​>​ ​top​ ​middle​ ​circular​ ​button​ ​>​ ​turn​ ​it​ ​WHITE.

​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​2.​ ​Turn​ ​ON​ ​HDR​ ​and​ ​the​ ​Grid

-HDR:​ ​High​ ​Dynamic​ ​Range

-3​ ​Exposures:​ ​Bright​ ​(well​ ​lit​ ​shadows),​ ​Neutral​ ​(well​ ​lit​ ​midtones),​ ​&​ ​Dark​ ​(well​ ​lit​ ​highlights)
TAKEN​ ​ALL​ ​AT​ ​THE​ ​SAME​ ​TIME.

-Turn​ ​it​ ​ON:​ ​Settings​ ​>​ ​Camera​ ​>​ ​Auto​ ​HDR​ ​(turn​ ​it​ ​GREEN)

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​ ​ ​ ​ ​3.​ ​Turn​ ​ON​ ​the​ ​Grid

-Great​ ​for​ ​determining​ ​RULE​ ​OF​ ​THIRDS.

-Helps​ ​find​ ​a​ ​level​ ​frame​ ​with​ ​horizon.

-Turn​ ​it​ ​ON:​ ​Settings​ ​>​ ​Camera​ ​>​ ​Grid​ ​(turn​ ​it​ ​GREEN)

​ ​ ​ ​ ​4.​ ​Focus​ ​Tapping​ ​/​ ​Depth​ ​of​ ​Field

-Depth​ ​of​ ​Field:​ ​The​ ​RANGE​ ​of​ ​sharpness​ ​in​ ​an​ ​image.

-Large​ ​DOF:​ ​Everything​ ​is​ ​in​ ​Focus

-Small​ ​DOF:​ ​Single​ ​subject​ ​is​ ​in​ ​focus​ ​and​ ​background​ ​is​ ​blurry.

-To​ ​manually​ ​change​ ​focus​ ​(when​ ​a​ ​subject​ ​is​ ​CLOSE​ ​UP),​ ​simply​ ​tap​ ​on​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​or​ ​on
the​ ​background​ ​to​ ​shift​ ​focus.

​ ​ ​ ​ ​5.​ ​Exposure​ ​Control

-Exposure:​ ​Amount​ ​of​ ​light​ ​per​ ​unit​ ​area.

-Tap​ ​on​ ​the​ ​subject,​ ​then​ ​slide​ ​your​ ​finger​ ​UP​ ​or​ ​DOWN​ ​to​ ​adjust​ ​exposure.

​ ​ ​ ​ ​6.​ ​LOCK​ ​Focus​ ​and​ ​Exposure

-Focus​ ​and​ ​Exposure​ ​stay​ ​locked​ ​no​ ​matter​ ​where​ ​you​ ​move​ ​the​ ​camera.

-Tap​ ​and​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​until​ ​a​ ​yellow​ ​box​ ​appears.​ ​(AE/AF​ ​Lock)

*Quick​ ​Tip*NEVER​ ​USE​ ​DIGITAL​ ​ZOOM

​ ​ ​ ​ ​7.​ ​Pano​ ​Mode

-Takes​ ​a​ ​series​ ​of​ ​images​ ​and​ ​stitches​ ​them​ ​together.

-Tap​ ​the​ ​white​ ​(shutter)​ ​button​ ​to​ ​start​ ​and​ ​stop​ ​the​ ​pano​ ​AT​ ​ANY​ ​TIME.

-Can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​for​ ​a​ ​GoPro​ ​style​ ​wide​ ​angle,​ ​OR​ ​used​ ​vertically​ ​for​ ​extra​ ​tall​ ​photos.

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Shot​ ​Composition
-Separates​ ​the​ ​men​ ​from​ ​the​ ​boys​ ​(or​ ​women​ ​from​ ​the​ ​girls)...So​ ​to​ ​speak.

-Shot:​ ​A​ ​frame​ ​with​ ​objects​ ​and​ ​shapes​ ​arranged​ ​to​ ​make​ ​a​ ​composition.

-Shot​ ​Composition:​ ​Arranging​ ​objects​ ​and​ ​shapes​ ​PURPOSEFULLY.

-Uncomposed:​ ​your​ ​eyes​ ​take​ ​too​ ​long​ ​to​ ​find​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​(BAD).

-Composed:​ ​your​ ​eyes​ ​take​ ​LESS​ ​time​ ​to​ ​find​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​(GOOD).

-Helps​ ​GUIDE​ ​the​ ​viewer’s​ ​eyes​ ​QUICKLY.

1. Perspective

4​ ​Types:

-Low​ ​Angle​:​ ​Subject​ ​is​ ​more​ ​SUPERIOR.

-High​ ​Angle​:​ ​increases​ ​depth​ ​and​ ​subject​ ​is​ ​smaller.

-Lateral​ ​Movement​:​ ​changing​ ​position​ ​left​ ​to​ ​right​ ​around​ ​a​ ​subject.

-1st​ ​Person​ ​POV​:​ ​through​ ​the​ ​eyes​ ​of​ ​the​ ​photographer

​ ​ ​ ​ ​2.​ ​Vantage​ ​Point

-Point​ ​of​ ​focus​ ​created​ ​by​ ​LEADING​ ​LINES.

-Leading​ ​Lines:​ ​GEOMETRIC​ ​or​ ​ORGANIC

-Geometric:​ ​straight​ ​/​ ​found​ ​in​ ​streets​ ​and​ ​buildings.

-Organic:​ ​curvy​ ​/​ ​found​ ​in​ ​nature.

-Lines​ ​start​ ​at​ ​the​ ​OUTSIDE​ ​and​ ​travel​ ​INWARD.

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​ ​ ​ ​ ​3.​ ​Rule​ ​of​ ​Thirds

-3​ ​columns

-Draws​ ​attention​ ​to​ ​composition​ ​AS​ ​A​ ​WHOLE.

-Includes​ ​background​ ​as​ ​a​ ​SECOND​ ​subject.

-Gives​ ​wider​ ​picture​ ​of​ ​the​ ​subjects​ ​surroundings.

​ ​ ​ ​ ​4.​ ​Dead​ ​Space

-Empty​ ​space​ ​with​ ​NO​ ​distracting​ ​elements.

-Highlights​ ​a​ ​single​ ​subject.

-Achieved​ ​best​ ​with​ ​backgrounds​ ​that​ ​are:​ ​far​ ​away,​ ​empty,​ ​or​ ​one​ ​tone​ ​of​ ​color.

Creating​ ​Depth
-Feeling​ ​of​ ​distance​ ​and​ ​separation​ ​from​ ​the​ ​subject.

-Simply​ ​include​ ​the​ ​ ​ground​ ​in​ ​your​ ​photo​ ​ ​to​ ​amplify​ ​how​ ​far​ ​away​ ​you​ ​are​ ​from​ ​the
subject.

-It’s​ ​the​ ​simple…

Surrounding​ ​Light
-Golden​ ​Hour:​ ​1​ ​Hour​ ​before​ ​SUNRISE​ ​and​ ​SUNSET.

-Shooting​ ​INTO​ ​the​ ​light:​ ​High​ ​Contrast​ ​/​ ​ ​Silhouette

-Shooting​ ​WITH​ ​the​ ​light:​ ​Evenly​ ​lit​ ​with​ ​soft​ ​warm​ ​light.

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Filling​ ​the​ ​Frame
-Style​ ​choice

-Draws​ ​the​ ​eyes​ ​closer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​subject

-Eliminates​ ​dead​ ​space.

-RESOURCEFULNESS

-FIlling​ ​the​ ​frame​ ​will​ ​depend​ ​on​ ​objects​ ​in​ ​your​ ​nearby​ ​surroundings.

Shooting​ ​Macro
-Macro:​ ​Shooting​ ​extreme​ ​close​ ​ups.

-Commonly​ ​done​ ​on​ ​insects,​ ​plants,​ ​and​ ​other​ ​forms​ ​of​ ​nature.

-Macro​ ​creates​ ​a​ ​SMALL​ ​depth​ ​of​ ​field​ ​so​ ​the​ ​background​ ​is​ ​blurrier.

-Use​ ​surrounding​ ​objects​ ​to​ ​fill​ ​the​ ​foreground​ ​and​ ​create​ ​DEPTH.

Storytelling
-COMPOSE​ ​ ​your​ ​shot​ ​to​ ​convey​ ​a​ ​story.

-Starter​ ​stories​ ​to​ ​try​ ​out:

1. Hero​ ​vs​ ​What​ ​Lies​ ​Ahead

2. Hero​ ​Vs​ ​The​ ​World
3. I’m​ ​Too​ ​Cool
4. Follow​ ​Me

-Combine​ ​different​ ​types​ ​of​ ​shot​ ​composition​ ​to​ ​tell​ ​new​ ​stories.​ ​Get​ ​Creative.

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Color​ ​Correcting​ ​(Lightroom)
Lightroom​ d
​ ownload​ ​on​ ​the​ ​App​ ​Store:
http://www.adobe.com/products/lightroom-mobile.htm...

The​ L
​ ight​​ ​Tab

Exposure​​ ​–​ T
​ his​ ​brightens​ ​or​ ​darkens​ ​the​ ​overall​ ​image.

Contrast​ –​ ​ C
​ ontrast​ ​is​ ​the​ ​difference​ ​between​ ​the​ ​light​ ​and​ ​dark​ ​areas​ ​in​ ​your​ ​image.​ ​You
can​ ​harshen​ ​the​ ​difference​ ​or​ ​neutralize​ ​it​ ​depending​ ​on​ ​which​ ​way​ ​you​ ​drag​ ​the
adjustment.​ ​Drag​ ​it​ ​to​ ​the​ ​right​ ​and​ ​the​ ​highlights​ ​will​ ​brighter​ ​while​ ​the​ ​shadows​ ​grow
darker​ ​at​ ​the​ ​same​ ​time.

Highlights​​ ​–​ ​These​ ​are​ ​the​ ​lightest​ ​parts​ ​of​ ​your​ ​image,​ ​typically​ ​where​ ​the​ ​light​ ​hits​ ​the
harshest.​ ​Dragging​ ​this​ ​slider​ ​to​ ​the​ ​right​ ​can​ ​boost​ ​your​ ​highlights​ ​more,​ ​and​ ​dragging​ ​it​ ​to
the​ ​left​ ​can​ ​reduce​ ​the​ ​highlights,​ ​sometimes​ ​uncovering​ ​more​ ​detail.

Shadows​​ ​–​ T
​ hese​ ​are​ ​the​ ​darker​ ​parts​ ​of​ ​your​ ​image,​ ​typically​ ​where​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​lack​ ​of​ ​light.
Dragging​ ​this​ ​slider​ ​to​ ​the​ ​right​ ​can​ ​darken​ ​them​ ​more,​ ​while​ ​dragging​ ​it​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left​ ​can
reduce​ ​them.

Blacks​ ​and​ ​Whites​–​ ​This​ ​is​ ​the​ ​total​ ​black​ ​limit​ ​and​ ​total​ ​white​ ​limit​ ​in​ ​your​ ​image.​ ​I​ ​go​ ​over
how​ ​this​ ​is​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​from​ ​Shadows​ ​and​ ​Highlights​ ​in​ ​my​ ​advanced​ ​course.​ ​As​ ​for
now,​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​need​ ​to​ ​touch​ ​these​ ​adjustments.

The​ C
​ olor​​ ​Tab

Temperature​​ ​-​ T
​ his​ ​changes​ ​the​ ​photo​ ​warm​ ​or​ ​cold​ ​depending​ ​on​ ​your​ ​preference.​ ​But​ ​to
fully​ ​utilize​ ​temperature,​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​understand​ ​White​ ​Balance​.​ ​White​ ​Balance​ ​is​ ​basically
the​ ​tint​ ​color​ ​on​ ​your​ ​photo​ ​caused​ ​by​ ​certain​ ​lighting​ ​conditions.​ ​A​ ​lot​ ​of​ ​older​ ​light​ ​bulbs
emit​ ​a​ ​very​ ​orange​ ​color,​ ​while​ ​newer​ ​fluorescent​ ​lights​ ​emit​ ​more​ ​of​ ​a​ ​white/blue​ ​color.
The​ ​same​ ​goes​ ​for​ ​if​ ​you’re​ ​standing​ ​in​ ​the​ ​sun​ ​vs​ ​standing​ ​in​ ​the​ ​shade.​ ​So​ ​your​ ​shots​ ​may
come​ ​out​ ​with​ ​a​ ​very​ ​orange​ ​or​ ​very​ ​blue​ ​tint​ ​depending​ ​on​ ​what​ ​type​ ​of​ ​lighting​ ​is​ ​present.

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Temperature​ ​is​ ​the​ ​fix​ ​for​ ​this.​ ​If​ ​your​ ​image​ ​is​ ​too​ ​orange​ ​or​ ​“warm”,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​drag​ ​the
temperature​ ​adjustment​ ​to​ ​add​ ​more​ ​blue​ ​tint​ ​to​ ​neutralize​ ​the​ ​image,​ ​and​ ​vice​ ​versa.

Tint​​ ​-​ ​This​ ​is​ ​a​ ​fine​ ​tune​ ​for​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​adjustment.​ ​Again,​ ​using​ ​this​ ​adjustment​ ​will
depend​ ​what​ ​lighting​ ​conditions​ ​you’re​ ​shooting​ ​in.​ ​It​ ​isn’t​ ​just​ ​the​ ​pink​ ​or​ ​green​ ​slider…
Certain​ ​lights​ ​emit​ ​certain​ ​hues​ ​of​ ​light,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​tint​ ​adjustment​ ​is​ ​another​ ​way​ ​to
neutralize​ ​them.

Saturation​-​ ​The​ ​overall​ ​intensity​ ​of​ ​all​ ​the​ ​colors​ ​in​ ​your​ ​shot.​ ​Dragging​ ​this​ ​slider​ ​to​ ​the
right​ ​can​ ​boost​ ​the​ ​colors,​ ​and​ ​dragging​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left​ ​will​ ​bring​ ​them​ ​closer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​black​ ​and
white​ ​value.

Vibrance​​ ​–​ ​This​ ​is​ ​an​ ​intelligent​ ​adjustment​ ​to​ ​boost​ ​the​ ​saturation​ ​of​ ​weaker​ ​colors,​ ​and
leaves​ ​the​ ​more​ ​saturated​ ​colors​ ​alone.

The​ M
​ IX​​ ​Button​ ​(In​ ​the​ c
​ olor​​ ​tab)

This​ ​feature​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​change​ ​INDIVIDUAL​ ​colors.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​change​ ​the​ ​hue​ ​(range​ ​of
color),​ ​saturation,​ ​and​ ​luminance​ ​(overall​ ​lightness​ ​of​ ​that​ ​color)​ ​of​ ​each​ ​individual​ ​color.

The​ E
​ ffects​​ ​Tab

Clarity​​ ​–​ ​Boosts​ ​the​ ​contrast​ ​only​ ​in​ ​the​ ​midtones​ ​of​ ​your​ ​photo.​ ​This​ ​is​ ​a​ ​fancy​ ​way​ ​of
saying​ ​it​ ​gives​ ​your​ ​photo​ ​an​ ​extra​ ​punch.​ ​It's​ ​best​ ​not​ ​to​ ​go​ ​overboard​ ​with​ ​this​ ​effect.

Dehaze​​ ​–​ ​Decreases​ ​fog​ ​and​ ​background​ ​haze.

Vignette​ ​Amount​​ ​–​ ​A​ ​vignette​ ​is​ ​the​ ​darkening​ ​or​ ​brightening​ ​of​ ​the​ ​image​ ​corners.​ ​It​ ​helps

draw​ ​focus​ ​to​ ​the​ ​center.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​drag​ ​it​ ​left​ ​to​ ​get​ ​a​ ​dark​ ​vignette,​ ​and​ ​drag​ ​it​ ​right​ ​to​ ​get​ ​a

bright​ ​vignette.​ ​I​ ​use​ ​a​ ​small​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​darkened​ ​vignette​ ​when​ ​editing​ ​photos​ ​with​ ​a

single​ ​subject​ ​in​ ​the​ ​dead​ ​center.​ ​It​ ​helps​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​pop​ ​a​ ​little​ ​more.

Midpoint​​ ​–​ ​This​ ​changes​ ​how​ ​close​ ​to​ ​the​ ​center​ ​you​ ​want​ ​the​ ​vignette​ ​to​ ​be.

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Feather​​ ​–​ ​This​ ​changes​ ​the​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​fade​ ​on​ ​the​ ​vignette.​ ​The​ ​more​ ​you​ ​drag​ ​the​ ​slider,

the​ ​more​ ​the​ ​vignette​ ​will​ ​blend.

Roundness​​ ​–​ ​This​ ​changes​ ​the​ ​shape​ ​of​ ​the​ ​vignette​ ​to​ ​a​ ​circle​ ​or​ ​a​ ​vertical​ ​oval,​ ​depending
on​ ​your​ ​preference.