An Exploration of Alleppey
An Exploration of Alleppey
HANS SCHENK
Introduetion MAP 1
THELOCATION OF ALLEPPEY IN SOUTH INDIA
Alleppey, a town in the State of Kerala in
South India (see map 1) presents an attractive PARUAS
1
coast of Malabar. The site was chosen for its local (Namboodiris) and other (mainly Sarasvat
convenient location with regard to inland from the Konkan) Brabmins; Muslim and Bania
(water) transport of spices and timber (see traders from Sindhb, Kutch, or Gujarat; Parsis,
map 2). For that purpose acanal of some three Christians, etc. all got a section along the
canal, at the Southern or the Northern bank,
kms was dug between the extensive system of
inland-waters (the Backwaters) which formed (map 3).
the commercial life lines of Travancore, and
the beach, upto a few hundred meters from the MAP 3
PLANNED URBAN DEVELOPMENT
Arabian Sea, where ships anchored on the IN 18TH CENTURY ALLEPPEY
Vembanád
A second canal parallel to the first one was
KOrTAYAM dug in the first half of the 19th century (map 4).
and especially since the second half of the 19th
century the town grew steadily in number of
MAP4
ANNED
PLAN URBAN DEVELOPMENT
IN 19 TH CENTURY ALLEPPEY
nTLighthouse
Arabran sea
inhabitants and in size. After the abolition of superblock' formed by major roads is given in
slavery, labourers could more easily move map 6.
around. They did so just by commuting from MAP 6.
the surrounding villages than by migrating to MINOR ROADS AND LANES IN ONE "SUPERBLOCK*
the town, although of course some people IN ALLEPPEY
5
of the indigenous town, while Tow castes and per female ward population aad the differences
low class categories tend to live at the out between the former and the latter are shown.
skirts. Brush demonstrates this general rule
The data on literacy do not give a picture of
byhis ønalysis of the socio-spatial structure of
Varanasi (Benares). It was only recently that a relatively highly literate population in the
central areas and a relatively illiterate at the
in this town peripheral locations by some
members of elite-groups were chosen. periphery. The diferences in degree of literacy
per ward are rather to be explained by the dis
Ihave no data available on the spatial dis tribution of some socio-cultural groups over
tribution of classes and castes in Alleppey. the urban area. Although no ward-wise data
Since class and position go hand in hand with are available on the distribution of these groups,
one can pointat the existense of a large Muslim
some other variables, it is possible to show for
Alleppey in an indirect way the distribution dominated area in the town that coincides
of the population according to social strata. with the low-density wards in the Southwest.
For this purpose I have used the data on Since Muslims are known to have a traditional
literacy. In the three maps 8 to 10 the distri arrear secular educatioD, the low degrees of
bution of the degree of general literacy per literacy in these wards can be explained in
ward population, the degree of female literacy this way. Looking at female degrees of literacy,
MAP8
THE DEGREE OF LITERACY PER CENSUS-VIARD
55- 60%
POPULATION 60- 65%
census 1971)
65- 70e
HH 7o- 75%
0 75- 80l
MAP 9
THE DEGREE OF FEMALE LITERACY
PERFEMALE CENSUS-WARD POPU
LATION
10
DIFFERENCES IN GENERAL LITERACY
AND FEMALE LITERACY
(census 1971 )
-50%
s0- 60%
HH60- 70%
B 70- 80%
-8%
HH 8-12%
12-16%
(census 1971
6
the point iseven made stronger. Since among the tioned a number of characteristics of an urban
Muslim population the sex-differences in atten central point, which we will take as a starting
ding secular education are relative ly great, point. These characteristics are :
one might expect in the low-general-leteracy
areas even lower degrees of female literacy. the existence of a commercial area
b a major street intersection of square
This exa mple of the qualitative aspects of
the pattern of population distribution strengh C. a point of maximum traffic density
thens the idea that Alleppey did not 'grow out d a major traffic interchange
from its canal-zone onwards, but 'grew in' e. an area with highest land-values.
to a large extent.
A quick examination shows that there are
There is no low-literacy belt at the urban at least six distinct areas which correspond to
periphery like in so many Indian towns and one or afew of such characteristics in Alleppey.
which is for a great deal a reflection of pat These are discussed belowv.
terns of segregation caused by geographical
urban-oriented and intra urban mobility. The (a). The Commercial Area of Alleppey
Alleppeyan-patte rns of segregation point rather
The term commercial area is not very clear.
to a much greater geographical immobility.
It may refer to retail trade or to wholesale
The centre of Alleppey trade. It may refer to daily food trading and
to the selling of durable or even luxurous con
An important instrument in the method
articles. In may towns such com
Used by Brush to measure the decrease of Sumpion
mercial activities coincide in the central bazar
ward-densities of population with increasing
distances to the centre, is the fixation of a
area, although there are within the bazar speci
alised sections. In Alleppey, however, quite
central point of the town: the culmination of distinct areas of the town caier for commercial
the central area.
needs of various kinds.
In the case of Alleppy it is not easy to find
a central pojnt. As against the assumption In map lla sche matic impression is given
of Brush that : "presumably there is one point, of the several main com mercial areas of the
usually in a commercial area with a major town, which are all located within or adjoin
street intersection or public square, in the ing the inner zore consisting of the two canals
(Commercial Canal in the South, Vadai canal
vicinity of which communication and inter-
change are at maximum concentration and land in the North, and its water-boundaries to the
East and the West.
values are highest" (1974 : 109), can be found,
there is at first sight no point anywhere in MAP I1
THE MAIN COMMERCIAL AREAs IN ALLEPPEY
Alleppeywhich has the above mentioned com (numbers: see text)
bination of qualities. Brush's assumption may 1 km
be usefull if there is a central bazar* and as
such the fixation of a central urban point is a 1
continuation of the idea that the indigenous
bazar is the focus of Indian indigenous urban life.
Let us see in detail how the situation in
Alleppey is in this respect. Brush has men
"Altbough one may of course doubt whether such a point is very relevant. Why is Manek Chauk chosen
as the central point in Abmedabad and not some point in Lal Dar waza ? Similarly, wby is Parry's
corner chosen as the central point in Madras, and not some junction of Anna Salai? Who is to choose
between Old Delbi's Chandni Chowk and New Delhi's Connaught Place ?
7
Commervàl a I inmap | isthe main omprises of one single street-Mulakkal-that
eenenttation of eoiading, together with connects both the canals, half akilometer East
emnats of procesing of coirproduct, Since of lron Bridge. t is known for luxury shops
evir a tjor item of whealth in Aleppey, ike jewelery and gokd, eBoth and ready made
this ane has great signiñcnce. The large-seale textiles, some hard ware, eleetrical outâting,
or factornes in this arex used to employ chemicals shops, ete.
thousands of workers deades ago, and the
sherping street in this area (New Bazar, along There are about 150 basiness premises in
side Commeial Cana) uset to be a most Mullakkal, apart from a surprising low number
important one. But now the factories have of hawkers and petty traders, and two temples.
clesed down due to a variety of reasons that Among the shops, ete. there are : 26 textiles
fall outside the seope of this study, Only shops, 25 jewelery shops, t3 chemist's shops,I
trade is concenttated here. Together with the shors selling alumininm and steel vessels, ete,
dramatie decine of employment in this area, 7shops selling cosnetics and ladies require
New Bazr has lost most of its imporance and ments", besides such specialized shops where
itsdilapilated appearance proves tùis. sport articles (), fountainpens (1), books and
stationary (6), bicycles 2, radio, records, eleo
Area 2 is the main market for foodstuffs trical out fits (5), or harmoniums (1) are sold.
ike vegetables, grains, fruits, etc. Further, there are banks, an oflice of the Com
munist Party of India, a vaterenary hospitat,
In this area the daily quotations of average but very few hops selling food (4 vegetable
prices of a number of commodities are made, shops, 2ghee shops, 2bakeries).
both in the retail trade and in the wholesale
trade, by the State Bureau of Economics and Propably most inhabitants of Alleppey
Statistics. Some of these quotations have would point to Mullakkal if they were asked
even a nation-wide function, As such it comes about the location of the centre. And indeed
close to the most important funetion of the it seems the most crowded shopping street in
traditional bazar. It attracts many customers Alleppey, especially between 5 and 7p. m.
and some of its streets display the overcrowd Also while the street is somewhat besides the
ing, filth and chaos that are supposed to be main traffic arteries and hence offering almos1
so characteristic for indegenous Indian towns. a pedestrial precinct, for Indian conditions,
Its streetshowever, have straiglht align ments. it seems a favourite place for being in town',
'meeting friends', or strolling around.
Area 3 is the main financial centre. It lies at
both sides of Commercial Canal around Iron Area 5, finally, is the main trading area for
Bridge. At least two out of every three finan other economically important products for
ciai institutions (banks, insurance companjes. Alleppey like copra, coconntoil and spices.
cooperative credit organisations) are to be This area which comprises of the Southern
found in this area. In its vicinity, especially section of Tirumalla and the Northera section
alongside the canal in the Western direction, of Chungam,two wards divided by Commercial
is the centre of hardware selling. Canal, is the focus of processing and trade of
these products : hke dgying of copra and
The roads alongside the canal may some pressing of oil, etc. Production, trade and
times be filled with piles of bricks, sacks of transport attract a considerable number of
cement, heaps of sand. The area around Iron people, and it can be called a busy area.
Bridge attracts many visitors,
In between the five mentioned areas, there
Area 4 is by far the outstanding centre of is a mixed developnment. Minor trades have
Don-food commodities. This centre actually developed in some parts, dwelling functions
8
seem to dominate in other ones, while in some following number of vehicles during peak
parts there are second rank urban activities, hours in one direction were counted in 1965 :
The next-best vegetable market is directly
north of Stone Brid ge and connects Mullakal Table 1
with the Tirumala-Chungam business area.
Traffic densities during peak hour (in one
The Southern Bank of Commercial Canal East
of Iron Bridge shows some signs of increasing
direction) at various places in Alleppey 1965
developments : a couple of new stores have vehicles bicycles
been built there, etc. fast slow
Iron Bridge (7) 265 165 505
(b) The Major Street-Intersections
Palace Junction (8) 192 82 389
In map 12 the major streeis are given in the Zilla Court Bridge 41 69 311
inner zone of the town. National Higbway (9)
47 which passes through the town (A By-pass
along the beach is already under consideration Shavacotta Bridge 32 32 205
(10)
MAP. 12
THE MAJOR STREET-INTERSECTIONS Source : Developmcnt Plan for Alleppey town,
(numbers: see text)
1966 : 44-45
14
10
In viewof the emerging picture of a multi It will be remembered that Brush hypothe.
centered town of Alleppey, one may ask again sises a steep gradient for indigenous Indian
whether Alleppey is exccptional in this respect, towns from the central point or from the
or whether the choice of a central point in nearby central point onwards the periphery. He
certain other towns is made somewhat arbitra measures this gradient by taking median distances
rily. In an earlier section some doubts were from each Census ward to the central point,
raised regarding the designation of a central We may ask now whether there is such a steep
point in cities like Madras or Ahmedabad. gradient in Alleppey, and whether the gradient
On the basis of a more detailed investigation differs markedly by choosing various starting
of the centre of Alleppey, these doubts are points.
repeated here.
For this purpose we have followed Brush's
In course of time one can observe that there procedure for the ward of Alleppey. In an
are definite shifts in the location of the central Annexure the database for this procedure has
been given, while we shall discuss here the
areas of Alleppey. Some central functions of
summary-results as given in table 2
the town decayed (e. g. the port-functions):
other ones emerged (e. g. overland transport);
Table 2
while still other ones got new locations (e. g.
shopping from New Bazar to Mullakkal). Tak Averge gross ward-desities according to mile
ing these processes as a wholc, most central distance zones originating from two alternate
areas 'move to the East' and tend to become urban central points
more dispersed over the inner urban zone. One density in persons per ha in zones
may therefore hypothesise that the multi around
centered pattern has become more outspoken Iron Bridge Mullakkal
during the last few decades. In view of these Junction
observations it seems worth while to consider
59 56
the location of (a) central areas (s) also in terms 0-1 mile
of urban dynamics. This aspect of the 1-2 miles 51 37
socio-spatial charaçter of Alleppey will however 25
be discussed in the future. 2 miles and 11
more
The Gradient of Population Density in Alleppey
Re-examined Soucces : Censes of India 1971, 1973.
To conclude, we endeavour to make some This table has been made inconformity with
exercises on the gradient of population density the yardsticks uscd by Brush : i. e. full-miles.
staring from several alternative central poinis. It will be seen in this table that there are very
of
flat ratio's indeed, irrespective of the choice
This enables us to demonstrate more in detail
the nature of the distribution of population of choice between
a central point. However, the Junction does
Alleppey and moreover we are able to assess Iron Bridge and Mullakkal
the variations in such a gradient with varying matter. The Iron Bridge-gradient is about
Junction -
central points, For shis purpose two tentative 5 1/2 to 1, while the Mullakkal
as
urban central points in Alleppey have been gradient isonly about 2 to l: less than half
still amazing
selected: the Iron Bridge gradient. This considered
Mullakkal and Cullen difference gets emphasis when it is tentative
a. the junction of that the distance between the
two
Road, halfway Mullakka! 500 meters.
central points is only some considerably.
(Mullakkal Junction) Moreover, the gradients difer deinitely of a
The Iron Bridge-gradient
is
b. Iron Bridge.
11
central points in relation to areas of high and
convex form: i.e. it is flat in the two inner
downwards low population densities.
zones, and goes relatively steeply
Junction
in the outer zone. The Mullakkal Both tentative central points are located
the
gradient has rather a concave form: besides areas with maximum densi ties as map
greatest difference in densities is between the
16 shows. They represent two points in a
middle and the innermost Zone.
rather empty living area, which is surrounded
by areas with much higher densities. A partial
These differences suggest that the choice
exception has to be made for Iron Bridge wbich
of a central point materially effects the desity is touched by the Southeastern corner of Market
gradient. This point will become even more
Ward. This Ward houses not only the foodstuff
clear when the yardstick is refined from a mile market, but is a lso one of the high density
to half amile as can be seen in table 3. living areas in Alleppey. As such it comes
closest to the idea of the indigenous bazar.
Table 3
MAP 16
GROSS DENSITIES OF POPULATION PER SENSUS
Average gross ward densities according to WARD
half a mile distance zones from two alternate (Census 1971)
-1 mile 56 55
|-1-} nmiles 54 55
1-}-2 miles 49 27
2-2- miles 25
2000
Source : Census of India 1971, 1973.
2000- 4000
4000- 6000 persons per kro
The emerging gradients get rather irregular
forms. The Mullakkal Junction-gradient actu 6000-8O00
ally exists of two flat levels : a retatively high 18000-10000
10000-12000
level upto l-} mile and a lower level beyond
that distance. The Iron Bridge-grdient has a However, it has been demonstrated in an
high peak for the density zone upto mile, a earlier section of this paragraph that this area
flat at the level of the innermost Mullakkal lacks many other qualities that are ascribed to
Junction level, but for a different distance zone: a central bazar area in the sense that Brush has
4 to 2 miles. Beyond that distance a very low given it.
density level is reached.
The high density in this ward gives also
These exercises are meant to demonstrate the explanation for the sudden density peak
the fluct uations that occur wben some altera in the half a mile gradient from Iron Bridge
tions are made in the procedure of measuring onwards, as has been given in table 3.
density gradients. Gradients as such as are then The data given in the tables 2 and 3, in map
rather arbitrary. It is however -more useful 16 and in earlier
sections make it possible to
to consider the specific locations of the chosea describe the structure of Alleppey in the follow
:12
ing way. In Alleppey there is an area, formed commercial core mav have been an important
by the two canals which is rather empty as far factor to explain this situation.
as dwelling functions are concerned, with the
exception of one ward, (Market Ward) which In the third place one has to remark that
divides the inner zone in two parts. These parts the Western type of population distribution
consist of a number of commercial areas which according to class reflects the importance &
have specific functions, and which are territorially geographical mobility, as has been described
segregated unlike the situation in many other by Burgess. In Alleppey there is no such
Indian towns. There is in Alleppey a clear mobility in the 'Western' sense whereby high
territorial specialization of central urban func class groups move towards the periphery, while
tions. low class groups have to stick to areas directly
around the CBD. Nor is there the mobility
Adjacent to the core area between the canals in the Indian sense' whereby the opposite
is a belt of high-density wards, or rather two tendency prevails.
ribbons in view of the site restrictions of All A final review
eppey. Gross densities of at least 60 persons
per hectare are prevalent and they may go up Returning to the arguments of Brush, it
to more than 100. Further up to the North seems that the dichotomy between indigenous
and down to the south, densities fall gradually. and British or modern towns is a dangerous
This pattern of the distribution of the urban one. Sure, one can hardly fail to observe the
population resembles very much that of Western differences in lay out, and in density patterns
cities where the 'Burgess type' of urban popu
between Shahjababad ("0ld Delbi") and New
lation zones is rather prevalent. There are Delhi; between the old town Ahmedabad and
howevar several important differences. The Ellis Bridge across the Sabarmati or the new
first one is that unlike in Western cities where state capital Gandhinagar; between so many dis
zones of classes of the population go from low trict towns in India and their cantonments or
class inner zones to high class peripheral zones, railway-colonies. But the danger lies in catego
there is no such zoning in Alleppey. The maps rising these differences as being indigenous' or
on literacy which indicate by and large class 'British'.
categories do not show such a zonal distribution.
On the contrary, some high classes tend to live For several reasons a different approach to the
in or near the central parts of Alleppey, like socio-spatial structures in Indian urban places is
the Namboodiri Brahmins in Mullakkal, or to be preferred. The first reason is that there
the Saraswat Brabmins in Tirumala or the Pal clearly exists an indigenous tradition of town
ace Ward, just South of the Commercial Canal. planning in which visual characteristics like
regularity and order, which are so easily seen
The second remark relates to a more com as the western contribution to urban India,
plex situation, Uolike Western cities where are honoured (see e.g. Nilsson, 1968 : 193).
the formation of a com mercial core was nor This tradition goes from Mohenjo-daro or Har
mally the result of market-forces which attrac appa or from the prescriptions for town planning
ted financlally strong powers to attractive sites as laid down in the Silpa-Sastra, ancient Hindu
and ousted the financially weak ones from it, in scripts on architecture and town planaing,
Alleppey the CBD was there right from the "which indeed governed the planning of all
beginning, more than two centuries ago, Indo"Aryan villages and towns", as the socio
logist Mukerjee remarko (1968 : 145, see also
This seems quite contrary to common Mukerjee 1961; and for a more comprebensive
Indian experlences where living and working overview the clauslo study of Dutt (a.d.) and
coincide much more. The close proximity of the recent one of Begde (1978). And opposite
residential areas-villages, now 'suburba to this to'Indlan order' can also stand 'British disor
13
der', as can be demonstrated by the description The socio-spatial pattern of Alleppey as it
of the nucleus of the British settlement in was devised and as it grew since 1762 can be
Calcutta (or rather Fort William). This colony seen at being at variance with a categorisation
grew to an irregular ring of European houses of towns in India. There is ample proof that
beside the fort and around the park and the Alleppey does not fit into a pattern designed
large tank.. "everyone taking in what ground by Brush and other. If, bowever, it is remar
best pleased them for gardening so that in ked that such an exception does not but con
most houses you must pass through a gardeH form a general rule, it seems more appropriate
into the house" (Nilsson 1368 : 47). to say that Alleppey demonstrates that the
categorisation- of the Brush-type may as well
Alleppey too is a proof of a regular indige- have been made too easily.
nous urban place that was started by Indians. It seems more appropriate to say that urban
Alleppey's lay-out was however guided by
developments are the result of a
secular commercial ideas, unlike the 'stronely S0ci0-spatial
large number of forces. Some of these forces
religious infiuences in classical Indian town are of a local importance only, while others
planning. have a wider significance. This will hold true
for every town in India or elsewhere. It seems
The second reason refers to the implied more fruitful then to explore the local and
value judgements that are laid down in the more general forces in urban development in
description of 'indigenous' and 'British' urban India than resort to categorisaion based on
patterns. 'Disorder', 'lack of space', easily western models.
Öccupy an inferior position in relation to
'order', carefull planning", etc. These value ANNEXURE
judgements have certainly played a role by
many foreign urban experts visiting and study
ing urban India. Fonseca has forcefully cri
ticized those foreign (and Indian) professionals
who judged over Shabjahanabad in this way
(1976 : 103-115). Indeed there is every reason 225
26
Ward-wise data.
in meters
Ward area population density in median distance to :
in km? (1971) inh,/ha Iron Bridge Mullakkal
junction
1. 8.41 7167 3525 3225
2. 1.48 5737 39 2925 3225
3. 2,79 10729 38 3300 3750
4. 1.45 5009 35 3375 3825
15
in meters
method distance to :
Ward arca population ensity in
n km Iron Bridge Mullakkal
(1971) inh./ha
junction
75 450 300
16. 0.44 3285
3967 110 450 900
17. 0,36
3105 44 1350 1800
18. 0,70
0.60 3578 60 2550 3000
19.
89 2700 3075
20. 0.54 4832
16
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5
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17