Ambidex System for Craps and Roulette

A Gambler’s Emporium Product

Introduction:
Dear Player:
A new betting system, Ambidex, has been developed. It is designed to win
at Craps and Roulette. It is the result of many years of effort and testing
to find a solid method of betting that does show a profit consistently, even
while going through the losing streaks of the game. It takes maximum
advantage of choppy tables.

A large majority of strategies heretofore invented leave much to be

desired. They usually will not hold up under adverse conditions of play.
Most involve some form of rapid progression, a very risky business,
without a stopping or cut-off point that is both bearable and reasonable.
Others require a large capital and have a short duration of play; some
require multiple bets; while still others have a long waiting time before
making a bet.

The ideal system is one that is simple as possible, involving only basic bets
and does not have a long string of progressive bets. It will not jeopardize
the player's capital or his mental well-being and does not need a scorecard
of any sort or a list of the bets and payoffs in order to keep track of the
play and otherwise involve work. A good method also keeps the amount of
cheques in play at a minimum and should not require you to continually
call bets on and off, etc. Above all, a good system is sound in principal and
has a winning objective.

Ambidex strives to accomplish this and much more.

Ambidex includes flat betting, some parlaying and at times some

progression. When to flat bet, parlay and use progression depends entirely
on how the dice (or wheel) is running, and is, for all practical purposes,
pre-determined. Every bet follows the pattern set forth and this pattern
need only be memorized (under normal circumstances there will be no
need for any progression.)

The best selling point of the play is that it will survive nicely when the
tables are running contrary to your bets, and does very good when the
decisions are running normal, passing here and there and missing here
and there.

Ambidex has many good features for the game of craps:

(1) You can play at any table regardless of how the dice are running.

(2) You can -stop at any time you want, for whatever reasons you have for
doing so.

(3) You can move from table to table at any point in the play.

(4) You do not get involved in anyone game or table.

(5) The capital requirements for play are flexible and the range is virtually
unlimited; from $16 to $96 for playing $1 cheques and $80 to $480 for $5
cheques, etc..

(6) The percentage of gain per outlay is exceptionally high.

(7) The Pass Line or Don't Pass Line can be played with equal success.

(8) The Ambidex System has unusual strength, thus a degree of confidence
is always present.

The last named feature cannot be taken too lightly. It is rare indeed to
have a good mental attitude while gambling. With this system you are
well within yourself. This confidence that you will have towards winning,
even after a few rough spots, is overwhelming and well worth the price of
the system.

When playing the Ambidex System there is no need to quit when you win,
as is so often the case with other systems on the market. Ambidex was
designed to be played on a continuous basis if you want to play for long
periods of time (and keep on winning) this is exactly what you can do.

Step-by-step instructions with necessary illustrations make the Ambidex

System easy to learn. Once you understand the basic concept, you can play
any of the variables, according to your capital and time restrictions.

The conversion from Craps to Roulette is quite simple. A method of

keeping the game going when you are the only player at the wheel is
included.

It is assumed you have a basic understanding of the games of Craps and

Roulette. This basic knowledge (which constitutes a Pass or Miss-Out, for
instance) is all that is required.

All bets as presented in the Ambidex System are even money bets. On the
Crap table. they are considered to be either on the Pass Line or Don't Pass
Line. At the Roulette wheel, they are 0 the Red and Black. Odd and Even,
or High and Low (1-18 and 19-36).

To make things easier, assume your betting will be on the Don't Pass Line
only after a shooter has made two passes. This way you are going to have
a little breathing room between bets and have all the cheques in the rack
to help keep track of things.

The system has a basic unit which you must become familiar with. Upon
mastering this, you become aware of its potential and are on your way.

The basic unit consists of four bets. In the beginning, a unit is four, 4, bets,
but at times the four, 4, bets are reduced to a lesser amount because of
losers and you are attempting to recover losers in order to get the unit off
to a better start.

The Basic Unit

Start with the basis unit of the system, which is four, 4, cheques. The four,
4, cheques can be any denomination, $1, $5, $25, .etc. The following
illustrates these four, 4, bets; first, in a-vertical row:
 1
1
1
1

For the purpose of saving space the following illustrates a horizontal row:
1, 1, 1, 1

Your next move is to label the four, 4, bets A, B, C and D.

Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
1 1 1 1

The foundation of the system is to win the first bet of the unit (Bet A).
When you do, put the winning cheque where it will do the most good,
namely, combine it with bet-B, to give this bet a total of 2-cheques.

Start your betting now and bet the first cheque (bet-A). Assume a winner,
putting the winning cheque on bet-B. which gives you the following
configuration.
Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
1 2 1 1

Now you have a total of five, 5, cheques from the original four.

If the first bet lost, however, you would bet the second bet in the unit (bet-
B) in order to recover the first loss and return to our original goal of
winning the initial bet. If the first two bets of the unit are lost, go to bet-C
and D to recover.

If bet-C is a winner, put the winning cheque on bet-D and your unit looks
like this:
Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
X X 1 2
"X" signifies a losing bet.

Continue to bet C – then, if necessary, wager D.

If either of these two bets wins, revert back to the beginning (1, 1, 1, 1),
attempting to start off winning bet-A.

If you lose both bets, begin another unit of four-cheques.

As explained previously, the idea is to win the first bet bet-A and place
the winning cheque on bet-B. When you have done this you have:
Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
1 1 2 2

If wagers A and B loses, proceed to wagering C and D. Try getting two

winners in order to return to 1, 1, 1, 1; and a fresh start.

Getting back to bet A and B when you have 1, 2, 1, 1:

Continue the betting with bet A and if a loser, wager bet B. If either of
these two bets (A or B) wins, you will then have a total of six cheques and
you move the two cheques (you are ahead, further to the right) combining
them with bets C and D.

When you have gotten this far, your four bets look like this:
Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
1 1 2 2

Continue wagering with bet A.

You can afford to lose two consecutive bets now, as B1, C is the total sum
of the first two. If and when you lose bet A and B, and win bet C, you
revert back to the position you were in before losing the two bets; go back
to 1, 1, 2, 2.

If bet C loses, go to bet D and try winning this 2-cheques wager to break
even and try again. While betting at stage 1, 1, 2, 2, you will often lose bet
A, win bet B and not make any headway towards your goal of doubling the
original four cheques to eight cheques.

At times this seems tedious but you must remember at this stage in the
play, you can afford to lose two in a row (bets A and B) and then win one
(bet C) and you will not lose any ground.

Now, if you win bet-A when you are at the 1, 1, 2, 2, mode, put the
winning cheque on bet-D which is already 2-cheques. Bet-D now becomes
3-cheques and you now have your 4-cheques wagers as illustrated:
Bet Bet Bet Bet
A B C D
1 1 2 3

Continue attempting to win bet-A for the last time, as you now have 7-
cheques and only need one more. If A is lost, bet-B to recover and return to
starting over with bet-A.

If A and B are lost, bet-C to recover and again, return to bet-A.

If A, B, and C are lost, wager D.

If D is a winner, return to the six-cheque mode of 1, 1, 2, 2. Bet-D is 3-

cheques and a winner will give you 6-cheques total once again.

As you can see, once you get ahead with the first 2-cheques you just sit
back and wait for the next two winning bets, while at times losing more
bets than you win.

Quite often you will lose A and B, win C, only to have this cycle repeat
itself three or four times. These losers are running 2-1 over the winners,
yet you do not lose any ground. When this cycle stops and winners return,
you are ready, needing just two winners; you doubled your four bets.

At the start of this 1, 1, 1, 1, unit bets, note you can lose the first two bets,
win the third (bet C which gives X, X, 1, 2), then lose bet-C and win bet-D
to get even.
Meanwhile, you lost three bets altogether and won two; breaking even in
the process. When you are at level 1, 1, 2, 2, you can lose a few more than
you win, and still maintain potential to double.

Here are sample decisions showing how to bet 1, 1, 1, 1. The strength of

this system will magnify itself greatly when you treat your other 4-unit
wagers in the same manner; even farther down the road with complete
lines of units.

In other words, you become stronger as you win here and there to the
point where losing becomes a long shot. Instead of a 50-50 proposition as
in the beginning, your patience (from the get-go start) will payoff later in
the game.

Here are illustrated decision examples of a rocky start from the beginning
of your table action, in order to demonstrate how betting proceeds:

Start: 1, 1, 1, 1
lose bet A you have X 1 1 1
lose bet B you have X X 1 1
lose bet C you have X X X 1
win bet D you have X X 1 1
win bet C you have X X 1 2
lose bet C you have X X X 2
win bet D you have 1 1 1 1

At this point you start over hoping for a better run of winners because you
just lost 4-wagers and won only 3 of your bets.

There are numerous winning/losing combination examples how betting

cycles in the majority of cases.
Familiarize yourself with 4-unit wagers:

Start:
Lose you have X 1 1 1 Net Total of 3
Lose you have X X 1 1 Net Total of 2
Lose you have X X x 1 Net Total of 1
Win you have X X 1 1 Net Total of 2
Win you have X X 1 2 Net Total of 3
Lose you have X X X 2 Net Total of 2
Win you have 1 1 1 1 Net Total of 4
Win you have 1 2 1 1 Net Total of 5
Lose you have X 2 1 1 Net Total of 4
Win you have 1 1 2 2 Net Total of 6
Lose you have X 1 2 2 Net Total of 5
Lose you have X X 2 2 Net Total of 4
Win you have 1 1 2 2 Net Total of 6
Lose you have X 1 2 2 Net Total of 5
Win you have 1 1 2 2 Net Total of 6
Win you have 1 1 2 3 Net Total of 7
Lose you have X 1 2 3 Net Total of 6
Lose you have X X 2 3 Net Total of 5
Win you have 1 1 2 3 Net Total of 7
Lose you have X 1 2 1 Net Total of 6
Lose you have X X 2 3 Net Total of 5
Lose you have X X x 3 Net Total of 3
Win you have 1 1 2 2 Net Total of 6
Win you have 1 1 2 3 Net Total of 7
Lose you have X 1 2 3 Net Total of 6
Lose you have X X 2 3 Net Total of 5
Win you have 1 1 2 3 Net Total of 7
Win … you have a Net Total of 8-units from your original 4
It appears you did quite a bit of betting just to win four cheques.
You spent considerable time just breaking even. But, when you count the
total number of wins VS losses, you discovered you won 12 wagers and lost
14 – while gaining your net profit win of 4-cheques!
Better yet, you doubled your unit of four. You will use these four, 4,
winning cheques in a similar manner later during your table action.

The fact that it took four cheques only to start you off towards even bigger
winnings later in the play is itself worth the time it took to double.
Remember, the game did not exactly treated you so good, because you lost
more decisions than you won. This is exactly what you must experience to
offset the house percentage. Winning 12 wagers only out of 26 will take
care of this. You can afford to lose more often farther down the line;
making it all worthwhile.

Multiple Units
Go to the next step in your play. Assume a line of units in which you have
4-units. Treat these multiple-units in the exact same manner as you did
with the individual wagers.

First: 4-unit wagers as illustrated:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1

The 4-units labeled

Unit-A Unit-B Unit-C and Unit-D
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1

If unit- A losses, bet unit-B to recover.

If both units-A and B lose, wager unit-C and unit- D.
Treat multiple-units in the exact same manner
as you did with the individual A, B, C and D wagers.

When you double the first unit, you put winning cheques on unit-B, much
the same way you put your first winning bet on the second bet. When you
have a winning unit, your four, 4, units look like:
1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
When you are two, 2, units ahead you have:
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
When you are three, 3, units ahead you have:
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2 3, 3, 3, 3
And, finally, winning another unit completes your play. Generally, this
profit can be taken as just that – a profit – and you can start another
round or leave to return another day.

If you were playing $1 cheques, your net profit is $16;

If you were playing $5 cheques, your net profit is $80;
If you wagered $25 cheques, your net profit is $400 ...

As you see from previous illustrations, you are doing the same thing with
winning units as you did with winning bets (wagering individual units). If
you continue putting your winning units to the right (B, C, or D), you add
strength to your play and eventually will win. Only an unusual losing
streak causes you to lose every bet in all your units – a phenomenon which
occurs so rarely that you can just continue betting with a new line of the
same amount, or, you change gears (use progression).

Methods of Progression
Assuming you are playing $$$-cheques. The total (of the line) is $16:
$4 in each unit, times 4.
You can start a new betting line after losing one
at twice the amount of the first – which is $32.
All bets will be $2 at the outset and is wagered
in the same manner as previously explained.
An example of the unit wager is:
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 4, 2, 2 2, 2, 4, 4 2, 2, 4, 6

Eventually, units in the second line of betting move as follows:

Start: 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
2, 2, 2, 2 4, 4, 4, 4
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
And finally, double:
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
4, 4, 4, 4 4, 4, 4, 4
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
4, 4, 4, 4 6, 6, 6, 6
A third line of betting can be incorporated in your play if you wish, and it
should be of the $5 variety, rather than $4. This makes the betting easier
since you will be dealing with five-dollar cheques rather than the
customary four-dollar bets as in most progressive systems.

(The) $5-Dollar units are bet the same as all other wagers; nothing in this
technique changes except the size of your bets – if – ever needed.

$5-Dollar Action Example:

5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 10, 10 5, 5, 10, 10 5, 5, 10, 15
Doubled line of units becomes:
5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 5, 5
5, 5, 5, 5 10, 10, 10, 10 5, 5, 5, 5
5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 5, 5 10, 10, 10, 10
5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 5, 5 10, 10, 10, 10

After winning a single line:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1

After winning two lines:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2

And so on, until doubled:

5, 5, 5, 5 5, 5, 5, 5
10, 10, 10, 10 15, 15, 15, 15
Start:
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1

After winning a line:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1

After winning two lines:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2

After winning three lines:

1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 2, 2, 2, 2
3, 3, 3, 3 3, 3, 3, 3
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 3, 3, 3, 3
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
2, 2, 2, 2 3, 3, 3, 3

As you can imagine, this method is much too defensive to play because the
application has too much winning potential to be so frugal. It is illustrated
for the benefit of those who wish to use it.

Parlaying two-line technique begins with a $48 bankroll ($16 + $32). Once
doubled goes to $96 (another possibility for those who wish to do so).
Two-line method:
Start:
1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2
1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2
1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2
1, 1, 1, 1 2, 2, 2, 2

When either of the 2-lines doubles, make your 2-lines look like:
1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1 1, 1, 1, 1
3, 3, 3, 3 3, 3, 3, 3 3, 3, 3, 3 3, 3, 3, 3

If you lose the first line, bet the second line. Whenebver it doubles, you
have doubled your starting capital from $48 to $96. If your first wager
wins, however, take down your 2-lines of profit ($32) and continue with 1,
2; striving, hopefully, to win one more line.

When you have double your original bankroll, move further to the right
and parlay what you have – which is $32 + $64 = $96.
2, 2, 2, 2 4, 4, 4, 4
2, 2, 2, 2 4, 4, 4, 4
2, 2, 2, 2 4, 4, 4, 4
2, 2, 2, 2 4, 4, 4, 4
If these cheques were of the $1 variety your net profit is $144.
If $5 cheques were used, your net profit is $720.
If you played $25 – your net profit is $3,600.
If you play the Don't Pass Line after a shooter made two passes, your
required time to accomplish the above is approximately 24 hours.
The player will undoubtedly find one of these ways to bet units and lines
of units; each having their personal reasons for doing so. The time element
among players varies widely – as will capital limitations.
The Otis system, commonly called “Up and Down” is also a good method if
your capital is sufficient. A technique in which you increase wagers by 1-
unit when you lose – and decease it by 1-unit when you win. Thereby,
winning (in the example) $16 each time a set of losses and wins occurs.
Roulette and Ambidex
The system works well at Roulette in spite of the greater house
percentage. The game moves much faster than Craps and therefore is
suitable for the player who wishes to have more action to complete his
objective.

The fact Roulette is a sitting-down game makes it even more attractive to

many players.

Needless to say, we will bet only even-money bets on the wheel:

Option #1: Red or Black
Option #2: Odd or Even
Option #3: High or Low
Option #4: Numbers 1 to 18
OR Numbers 19 to 36

The most popular of these bets is, of course, the Red and Black. Their
betting position on the table layout is centrally located; thus accessible to
all players regardless of where they are sitting.

Odd and Even bets are spaced apart from each other and tougher to reach.

High and Low spots are at opposite ends of the table.

High is on the extreme left;
Low is on the extreme Right.

Because of the frequency of betting the wheel, it is suggested you play the
colors Red and Black. When to bet Red or Black must be predetermined by
a set of guidelines; or rules – removing guess work from your action.

By far, the best time to start betting a color is when it has not popped for
at least two spins of the wheel. In other words, if Black showed twice in a
row, your betting starts on Red with an expectation one Red will show in
the next four, 4, spins.

You make a maximum of four, 4, bets (1-unit wagers) on Red, hoping to

win the first bet as in Craps. Follow the same betting pattern as in Craps.
Once you have a winner, start a new sequence – that is waiting for two of
the same color and continue the betting.

If all four, 4, bets lose, wait for a new opportunity to start a new unit. Do
not chase beyond four, 4, bets on anything -- whether it’s a color on the
wheel or Don't Pass Line against one shooter at the Crap’s table.

If a Green (0 or 00) shows while your bets are in progress, continue

betting as if the opposite color popped. A Green, 0/00, is merely a loser.

For some unexplained reason, units of 1, 1, 1, 1, do extremely well on the

wheel. Perhaps because you have already seen two of one color in a row
before betting and you are wagering this will not occur as six in a row. The
expectation of a winner on the first bet is very good and you will win a
great many of these initial bets.

Too, you will have a 1, 2, 1, 1, and then 1, 1, 2, 2, etc. Streaks of any one
color are not as predominant as in Craps. This is difficult to explain, but,
the fact remains that cycles run very short. So after seeing two of one
color, your bets on the opposite are sound.

Once you play this way at Roulette you will get the hang of it and the
experience will help you realize the potential of winning. Plus, the fact
that Roulette is generally easier on the nerves overall.

You need to devise a tracking method of the colors for the purpose of
betting and there area numerous ways to do this:
One way is keeping a mental count of the last color.
Keeping this in mind, wait for the next spin,
if the color is the same, you have a count of two
– you can start betting on the next outcome.

This method is somewhat crude, however, it is always possible to forget

exactly where you are at any given time. At times the pace of the game is
slowed for a variety of reasons – new players buying in, other players
cashing in chips, cheques, etc.
Background noise and the table talk among players is distracting in such a
way as to cause you to forget exactly what the last color was.

Concentration is necessary while keeping a mental count of the goings-on

and this is not always the best thing as too much concentration is not
conducive to good playing.

Another method of keeping track of things is to place 2-white or 2-red,

2- green or any other color cheque in your dice table back rack.

=0
The denomination of these 2-cheques makes no difference. You are just
using them as references; place 1-cheque on the left to signify Red (as on
the Roulette table layout) and the other to the Right, representing Black.
When one color shows, place an additional cheque on top of the cheque
representing that color; you now have a record of the last color hit.

When you cap one cheque it will look like:

=0
The bold 0 means you have one cheque (Black, capped). If the next color is
the same as the one you have capped, you have a 2-count. Remove the
third cheque and place it in front of the one representing the color you are
to starting to wager. Now you have a continuous means knowing where
you are betting.

When you are betting:

0
00
Any delays in your action has no consequence – you only have to look at
your 3-cheques to immediately determine where you are at any point in
the game. When waiting for a count, 0 or 00 [Green shows], start over.

Another method, by far the best, serves a dual purpose: it keeps your
game going while you are the only player at the wheel.

To keep track of the colors, betting them at the same time, use the
following: assume you are starting from scratch; no count:
Place the minimum bet on either color.
Call these "shill”.
If the bet loses, bet it a second time (only minimum bet)
and if it loses again, you have your count of two.

Once a bet wins, however, you have two cheques and they are to be
parlayed on the opposite color. If the parlay wins, take three cheques
profit, start over, placing a single bet on the opposite color that just
showed.

If the parlay bet loses it means two colors in a row have shown and you
start your regular betting. The regular betting should be $5 cheques ($20
units) and the "shill bet" in most cases will be with $1 cheques.

If, however, your table minimum ($5) outside the layout, betting Red or
Black, requires a $5wager, wager $1 Double Street Bets. This is known as
Paying Rent when you first begin (or playing alone).
This betting keeps the game going rather fast, but once you master the
methodology, you will see its usefulness

When you win your $5 bet continue with the "shill" betting on the opposite
color on which you just won. An immediate loss means a count of two.
With the exception of a Green showing, a “shill” loss bet (whether it be the
first half of the parlay or not) always means to start your regular
wagering; also on the color which you just lost.

Again, when Reds and Blacks are zigzagging (alternating back and forth)
you are continuously betting "shill cheques" in this manner and parlaying
the first cheque. Remember, bet one cheque, parlay the two cheques on the
opposite color, start again with 1-cheque and continue this way.

Anytime one of these shill bets loses, it means that two of one color has
shown. When a Green shows up during this process, start a brand new
“Shill” bet with 1-cheque on the color you were on when the Green showed.
It is wise to consider Green as a time to start a brand new count
regardless of your methodical tracking count.

As mentioned earlier, the speed of Roulette makes an ideal situation to

double a single line of far units in the shortest possible time. This line
should be $80 ($20 x 4) and a winner of $80 profit each time you double.

As this line of profit is $80 total and the time element required to double
relatively short, most Roulette players should give serious thought to
playing this method as an ongoing thing without any progression
whatsoever.

Your need for progressive wagers is almost non-existent because the odds
of winning $80 occurs much more often.