AESTHETIC FOCUS

Hair removal: a summary of techniques

with a particular emphasis on the
importance and versatility
of electrolysis
BY ANGELA WHEAT AND MOYRA RADBOURNE

Background and causes of

excess or unwanted hair
excess hair growth [2]. Such excessive
hair growth often requires permanent “Electrolysis has
The management of unwanted body and
facial hair has been a constant challenge
treatment intervention via electrolysis,
which will be explored later in the article.
the power to radically
for the human species since the dawn Before exploring the different methods improve an individual’s
of treating unwanted hair, the cause of
of human culture in the Neolithic era.
Of note this was the New Stone age the hair growth should be determined physical and emotional
which began around 10,000 BC in the
Middle East and was characterised by
if possible, by means of a detailed client
consultation. Practitioners should create
wellbeing.”
a move towards domestication and the a personalised client case history, taking
fashioning of tools from stone. Whilst into account various lifestyle and medical
methods and cultural preferences issues, in order to establish the most
have changed throughout the course likely cause of growth and therefore the
of history, the demand for body hair most effective method of treatment, to
removal has never been so high with either control or permanently remove
around 85% of females in the UK having the hair, depending on the client’s
some form of hair removal treatment [1]. preference [3].
There are various causes of unwanted There are a wide variety of hair
hair. The majority fall into the category removal and reduction techniques,
of normal systemic causes which are suitable for different types of growth, and
triggered by the onset of puberty, different client budgets. Arguably, the
pregnancy or menopause and other most widely used are the non-permanent
normal hormonal activity. Psychiatric methods.
disorders such as anorexia nervosa can
lead to either thinning and brittle hair, Non-permanent methods of
or to hypertrichosis (excess body hair). hair removal
Emotional disorders and long-term stress Waxing / sugaring
are also significant causes. Arguably the best temporary method of
Another common cause is topical hair removal, this procedure is carried
stimulation; the removal of vellus or out with either hot or warm wax, with
virgin hair growth, for example, by paper strips used to remove wax and hair
plucking. This can stimulate a deeper and growth from the skin (Figure 1).
richer blood supply to the hair follicle Key advantages to the method are
causing hair growth to become coarse that large areas (for example, full legs
and terminal in nature, which requires and backs) can be treated. Hairs are
more management over time. Prescribed removed from their roots resulting in Figure 1: Waxing is one of the most popular and
medicines for some medical conditions the new growth appearing four to six best forms of non-permanent hair removal.
may also contribute to excessive hair weeks after the treatment and the hairs
growth, e.g. steroids, or combination are characteristically soft with pointed
hormone replacement therapy (HRT), ends. All areas of the face and body can hairs in the same fashion as waxing and
which may contain a small amount of be treated, including the bikini line and therefore demonstrates comparable
testosterone. underarm area. Similarly, sugaring is an results [4].
A number of medical conditions, ancient Middle Eastern practice using
such as polycystic ovarian syndrome, a paste either applied in a ball or strip Light-based hair removal systems
Cushing’s syndrome, and adrenal made from natural ingredients, such as Laser and intense pulse light (IPL) both
tumours etc. can result in extremes of sugar, water and lemon juice. It removes target the melanin within the hair follicle,

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 AESTHETIC FOCUS

diffusing heat within the surrounding

tissues. There are a variety of different
types of lasers, e.g. Alexandrite, Ruby
and Diode. Lasers usually work on either
visible or infrared light spectrums,
depending on the type.
In contrast, IPL uses a variety of
different wavelengths to deliver heat
energy at varying depths within the
skin. Whilst both laser and IPL will
substantially reduce hair growth, it is not
permanent removal, and is technically
termed as ‘hair reduction’ [5].
As the main focus of these methods is
the melanin pigment within the tissues,
this system is generally not effective
on fair hair on white skin, black hair on
black skin or on red hair. This is due to its
inability to differentiate between the skin
pigment cells and the hair pigment cells.
Therefore, it is ideal for treating dark hair
on fair skin but regular top up treatments
will still be required to keep hair growth
reduced.

Depilatory creams / mousses / pastes

These products use a chemical ingredient,
commonly calcium thioglycollate or
calcium hydroxide [1] which breaks down
the keratin and dissolves it when removed Figure 2: Hair removal by electrolysis.
with water or a spatula. Chemical action
may lead to skin sensitivity and irritation.
Regrowth occurs very quickly, ranging as polycystic ovarian syndrome, pilonidal achieved by heat (with thermolysis) or a
from a few days to several weeks. sinus conditions, thyroid conditions chemical reaction (with galvanic) or both
and gender dysphoria, to name a few. In blended together (with blend).
Threading these instances, electrolysis should be The treatment can be adapted to suit
An ancient Asian method of removing considered (Figure 2). Its unique ability each client’s skin, hair and pain threshold.
facial hair, using a cotton thread to to destroy the hair germ cells results in During a course of treatments there will
remove hair from the follicle by the root. permanent eradication of all hair growth, be a constant, gradual decrease in the
This is a skilled technique [4] which can regardless of skin and hair type or colour. growth of the hair until it has all been
encourage fine vellus hair to become It can be carried out anywhere on the permanently removed, and there are no
coarser in time, and therefore requires face and body and must be performed hairs left, as follicle destruction has been
regular treatment. by a highly skilled and experienced achieved. The number of treatments
practitioner. required will vary from person to person
Hair growth retardant cream (Vaniqua®) There are three main methods of and will be discussed at the consultation.
This is a prescription drug in the form of electrolysis: The first sign that electrolysis treatment
a cream. It has been found to act as a hair • Galvanic is working is that the hair growth becomes
retardant, which reduces, rather than • Thermolysis (also called diathermy softer, finer and lighter in colour. There is
stops growth [6]. By using this cream post or radio frequency (RF) diathermy an immediate aesthetic improvement for
waxing or after other methods where in some countries) the client, which continues gradually over
the hair is removed from the root, it has • Blend method. the course of treatment.
in some cases slowed down hair growth. Electrolysis involves the insertion of a very The impact of electrolysis on certain
However, upon cessation of treatment fine, disposable, sterile probe (the same medical conditions should not be
hair will re-establish in approximately diameter as the hair) into the hair follicle, underestimated. Below are three case
eight weeks. which is a natural opening in the skin. A studies of incidences where electrolysis
tiny amount of energy is then skillfully techniques have made a significant
Permanent hair removal discharged into the hair follicle. The improvement to the physiological and
Whilst non-permanent hair removal is selection of energy is based on the skin and psychological wellbeing of the client.
suitable for a large proportion of the hair type presented; the amount of energy
population, in some cases there is a varies from 0.1 of a second to five seconds Case study 1
genuine medical or psychological need for depending on the method of electrolysis A male patient with a pilonidal sinus
a permanent solution to unwanted hair used. The only sensation felt by the client condition was referred via a consultant
growth. This is especially true in cases of is heat passing down the probe to the base surgeon from the local hospital (Figure
those suffering medical conditions, such of the follicle. The follicle destruction is 3). This is an ingression of exogenous

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 AESTHETIC FOCUS

hairs, causing a foreign body reaction in

the anus area which requires treatment in
order to avoid surgery. In this case, there
is only one treatment option available
other than surgery. Electrolysis will
permanently destroy the hair germ cells,
thus preventing the hairs from re-growing
and causing further pilonidal sinuses. By
carrying out electrolysis, in some cases the
need for surgery is eliminated, saving the
patient from the physical and emotional Figure 3: Pilonidal sinus.
trauma of the operation, as well as the
unsightly scarring and costly recovery first one following treatment. She used to References
period that would have resulted. wear scarves and chunky jewellery to hide 1. Wheat A. The Complete Guide to Electro Epilation.
London, UK; Hodder & Stoughton; 2002.
her condition and is now free of these for 2. Cartwright E, Morris G, Sullivan M. Electro Epilation: A
Case study 2 the first time in her adult life, reporting a practical Approach for NVQ Level 3. Avon, UK; The Bath
A transgender male to female client major increase in emotional wellbeing. Press; 1995:72-5.
3. British Institute Association of Electrolysis. NHS
required genital hair removal prior to Information Pack. Middlesex, UK; BIAE; 2014.
surgery. Surgeons performing gender Summary 4. Simms J. A practical guide to beauty therapy for NVQ
reassignment surgery generally advocate In conclusion, whilst for many people Level 2. Cheltenham, UK; Nelson Thornes; 1998:343.
5. Brown J, Morris G. Encyclopedia of Hair Removal.
electrolysis, as it is a permanent solution temporary methods of hair removal are London, UK; Thomson Learning; 2006:294-305.
to unwanted hair growth, which can adequate, others need more help to keep 6. Owen E. PCOS and how it affects hair growth. Lecture
help the patient enormously in terms excessive hair growth at bay. Finding given at MIC Hotel and Conference Centre, Euston
Street, London; 2009.
of psychological wellbeing prior to, and a permanent and effective solution to
after the surgery. One key benefit is that unwanted hair can be life changing. Far
the procedure reduces the chance of hair from being simply a beauty treatment of Angela Wheat,
balls growing inside the newly formed purely cosmetic value, the case studies Chair of the British Institute
vaginal cavity as all the hair germ cells are above demonstrate that electrolysis and Association of Electrolysis,
destroyed. has the power to radically improve an and member of the International
Federation of Health and Beauty
individual’s physical and emotional Therapists and the National
Case study 3 wellbeing. An additional benefit is the Advisory board for Beauty
A client in her 30s with polycystic ovaries cost-effective outcome for certain cases, Therapy.
presented to a clinic with a full beard, hair such as some patients with pilonidal [email protected]
across her chest and stomach, and very sinus, by eliminating the need for costly Declaration of competing interests: None declared.
dense hair growth. She had been shaving surgery and postoperative care. To quote
and plucking all areas on a regular basis Angela Wheat, Chair of the BIAE, “No Moyra Radbourne,
for some time. The client was hugely electrolysis quite literally means no hope Previous Chair of the British
psychologically impacted by the condition, for thousands of people who cannot find a Association of Electrolysis and
current member of the British
and sought out electrolysis as a last suitable alternative.” Institute and Association of
resort. She had successful removal of her Electrolysis.
beard, moustache, breast and stomach
Recommended reading
hair growth. In addition, her eyebrows Declaration of competing interests: None declared.
The BIAE website www.electrolysis.co.uk has further
were groomed and shaped to have a more information; members’ names and addresses are also
feminine appearance. She had never worn published, so members of the public can access details
and find a practitioner in their area.
a low cut t-shirt or dress, and bought her

BIAE The aim of CPD is to improve the quality

of each practitioner’s current and future
Electrolysis is a highly skilled technique
work, whilst ensuring that members
and the British Institute and Association
retain the capacity to practise electrolysis
of Electrolysis (BIAE) is the only British
safely, effectively and legally. In addition,
professional body representing
it helps to keep members in touch with
electrolysists.
current practice techniques, sterilisation
All BIAE members have to take additional methods and hygiene procedures, as well
practical and theoretical examinations, to as changes in technology and legislation
ensure the highest professional standards. against members. BIAE members are that occur between the time of initial
These are above the National Occupational required to take annual continuous qualification and retirement. The BIAE is at
Standard (NVQ level 3). Members also professional development (CPD) achieving the forefront of maintaining the highest
abide by a code of ethics, which is a guide a minimum of 10 points each year, which is standards of excellence in this fast paced
to excellence in professional conduct checked by the BIAE board before any CPD industry.
and practice. Breaches of this lead to certificates are issued and is listed on the
disciplinary procedures by the organisation BIAE national register of members.

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