Page 1

MAMA & BABY MOUSE

10 x 2
S T U D I O
BY VICTORIA ZHUK

MOUSE

WWW.10X2STUDIO.COM
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10 x 2

S T U D I O SIZE TEST

BY VICTORIA ZHUK 1" x 1"

- 2.54 cm x 2.54 cm
MEASURES ABOUT 7"
(18 CM)

THIS PATTERN HAS NO SEAM ALLOWANCE,

CUT PATTERN RIGHT ON THE LINE AND REFER TO
INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO USE IT.

MAMA MOUSE

MARK
FOR MARK
EAR FOR
EAR

MAMA MOUSE
BACK
OF EAR
HEAD
FABRIC STRETCH
FABRIC STRETCH

DIRECTION
DIRECTION

OPENING

MARK
FOR ARM MARK MARK
CONNECTOR FOR ARM MARK
CONNECTOR FOR FOR
CONNECTOR CONNECTOR
OPENING
ING

OPENING

MAMA MAMA
OPEN

MOUSE MOUSE
FRONT BACK
OF OF
BODY BODY MAMA MAMA
MARK
MOUSE MOUSE
FOR LEG MARK
CONNECTOR FOR LEG
CONNECTOR
ARM LEG

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 Page 2
10 x 2

S T U D I O SIZE TEST

BY VICTORIA ZHUK 1" x 1"

- 2.54 cm x 2.54 cm
MEASURES ABOUT 6"
(15 CM)

THIS PATTERN HAS NO SEAM ALLOWANCE,

CUT PATTERN RIGHT ON THE LINE AND REFER TO
INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO USE IT.

BABY MOUSE

MARK MARK
FOR FOR
EAR EAR

BABY MOUSE
EAR

BACK
OF
HEAD
FABRIC STRETCH
FABRIC STRETCH

DIRECTION
DIRECTION

OPENING

MARK
MARK
FOR ARM
FOR ARM MARK
CONNECTOR FOR
CONNECTOR
CONNECTOR
MARK
FOR
BABY
OPENING

CONNECTOR
BABY
MOUSE
ING

MOUSE
OPENING
OPEN

FRONT BACK
OF OF
BODY BODY
BABY
MARK
FOR LEG MARK
BABY MOUSE
CONNECTOR FOR LEG
CONNECTOR
MOUSE
LEG
ARM

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WHAT YOU WILL NEED

PINK PEN OR PENCIL FOR BLUSH TWINE FOR TAIL

a regular coloring
pencil will work
STRAW

STUFFING TOOL
CHOPSTICK

FABRIC FOR BODY FABRIC MARKER

I'm using a regular
ballpoint pen
CONNECTORS EMBROIDERY YARN
8 fiber board disks - 12mm for eyes, nose, mouth
4 split cotter pins - 10mm (regular sewing thread
(search for teddy bear can be used instead)
connector joints in craft shops
near you or online)

THREAD
matching
fabric

FABRIC FOR NEEDLE

INSIDE OF EAR PINS
FORCEPS
or
SMALL PLIERS

SCISSORS
FIBER FILL

FIBER FILL

Morning glory Cluster Stuff Poly-fil Fiber Fill

From Hobby Lobby From Jo-Ann

THESE ARE TWO OF MY FAVORITES IN THE USA

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FABRIC FOR THIS PROJECT

I suggest using woven 100% cotton Woven faux suede (should be thin)
in medium weight (also called &
quilting cotton) for this project. Flannel
It's easy to work with and looks good. are also great for this project!

Fabric used for the mouse on cover photo

is from JoAnn store in USA.
I got it as a Fabric Quarter (precut fabrics)
name is: Keepsake Calico Cotton metallic dot
Gold on grey.

HAND STITCHES TO USE

LADDER
STITCH
 Page 6

FUSIBLE INTERFACING
If your fabric frays easily apply fusible interfacing to it.
This will strengthen fabric and make it easier to work with.

FUSIBLE INTERFACING
has small glue dots on
one side, that's the side
that needs to lay on fabric.

If any of the fabrics you find

is very thin you can use
fusible interfacing to make it If you decided to use fusible
interfacing, lay it (glue dots down) If you look closely on your fabric
thicker. This is optional, but I prefer you will notice
to use it as it adds thickness to onto back of fabric, lay thin cotton
fabric or paper towel on top and the glue dot's have melted, if you
fabric and that helps achieve a try to lift fusible interfacing
smoother surface on doll after iron until glue dots melt and
fusible interfacing becomes it will rip. That's when you know
stuffing. It also makes fabric more it's applied well.
stable, prevents edges from firmly attached to fabric.
fraying and strengthens seams.

STRETCH DIRECTION
This fabric here stretches
horizontally but does not
stretch vertically.
VERTICAL

S
A
BI

HORIZONTAL

Woven fabric will have a tiny bit of stretch

most of the time, especially cotton fabric Check direction of stretch on
for quilting. If you look closely you will see fabric. There will be a slight
the grain of fabric, some threads are
vertical & some are horizontal. Fabric will difference in the toy depending on
stretch in one of these directions. which direction you will lay the
Bias grain is going at 45% angle, pattern.
do not lay pattern in this direction
as it's too stretchy and unstable.
 Page 7

Fundamental rules

Cutting paper pattern, tracing the pattern, and sewing right on the line
should be done very carefully and as accurately as possible.

Sew with very short stitches and good tension.

This will ensure your seams are strong and won't rip apart.

Stuffing should be very firm! Firm enough to force the seams and fabric
to become smooth and appealing.
 MOUSE Page 8

1 2 3 4
ears
2
3" x 6"
(7.5cm x 15cm)

body & limbs

2
7" x 9"
(18cm x 23cm)

Cut out fabric to needed size, On back of fabric: Lay fabrics right sides Same for ears:
iron, add fusible interfacing trace arm twice together. trace ear twice.
if using. trace leg twice Lay fabrics for ears right
trace front of body once sides together.
trace front of body once.
Make small marks for
openings, arms, legs, ears.
Make sure to have at least
1/2" (1.2 cm) space between all
parts.

5 6 7 8

Pin fabrics together to keep Arms and legs: Ears: Body

them from sliding as you sew. With very short stitches sew With very short stitches sew With very short stitches sew
right on the line. Leave right on the line. Leave right on the line.
openings un-sewn. openings un-sewn. Sew only the left side of front
part and left side of back part,
Note that back part has an
opening that should be left
un-sewn.

9 10 11 12

Double stitch near the neck Cut out arms, legs, and ears Clip or notch all curved To cut out body parts:
curve to strengthen this 1/8" (.4 cm) away from edge areas of all parts. This relaxes Cut 1/8" (.4 cm) away from
area. leave a little extra the fabric and helps curves sewn lines (leave 1/4" (.6 cm)
To do that simply sew another fabric near the opening become smooth once turned near opening).
row of stitches next to the about 1/4" (.6 cm). inside out.
line, make sure it's outside I prefer clipping as it is faster
of the pattern piece. and gives the same result as
notching on a small scale toy
like this.
 MOUSE Page 9

13 14 15 16

Then cut out the un-sewn Turn arms, legs, ears Once arm is turned inside out Rolling the seams back and
side 1/4" (.6 cm) away from inside out. use a narrow end of chopstick forth with fingers also helps
drawn line. Use a straw and a chopstick to push on the seams from gently soften the fabric and
to help. Insert straw inside inside to help them become help edges become smooth.
arm and push fabric in with rounded at all curves.
a narrow end of a chopstick Support fabric as you apply
from the outside. pressure to keep it from
ripping.

17 18 19 20

Tuck in the seam allowance Press so it holds the shape. Do this for all arms, legs, Seam allowance doesn't need
at opening. and ears. to be tucked in if you are
sewing the ears in place as
described in step 33.
I don't recommend this for
beginners as the ears are big
and it's hard to handle them.

21 22 23 24

If you decide to hand sew the If you are sewing in the ears This looked good to me so Sew the folded bottom of ears
ears in place simply continue at this stage (faster but less I decided to go with it. with a sewing machine or by
on to sewing body (step 25) control of the outcome) then hand to secure the position
and ignore the ears until you may leave the ears as they of folds. Stitches should be
step 139. are or fold them at opening within 1/4" (.6 cm) distance
and pin to keep the shape, from the raw edge (opening).
folding can be done any way
that looks good to you.
 MOUSE Page 10

25 26 27 28

To sew the body front and Flip the back part so that the "Open" both parts where And match them together
back parts together: traced lines are downward. they are not sewn yet. aligning the tops first.
lay the two parts in front of
you with traced lines upward.

29 30 31 32
front
of ear

face

View from above, the top Choose a side you will sew Pin so that the center is If you are sewing the ear in
matches perfectly, the goal is first and fold the rest of fabric aligned and the extra fabric now:
to have the seam end on the out of the way. is out of the way. the front part of the ear needs
front part and the seam end Pictured here I'll be sewing the to face the right side of the
on the back part to come right side, so all the other face fabric, as pictured here.
together. fabric is folded to the left.

33 34 35 36

Insert the ear in between the two Pin ear "sandwiched" between Sew together right on the line Double stitch next to the
fabrics and match top side of ear head fabrics, and pin the rest all the way from top to line all the way from top to
with mark on head. The ear is big
so it will need to be compressed of the side of body. bottom. bottom. This will strengthen
a bit as you try to fit it in the head. Align the bottom the same the seams holding the ears
Align the raw edge of ear with way as the top, pinning and limbs.
the raw edge of head, but prioritize
having the stitches on ear remain access fabric away to the side.
in the seam allowance zone, so
they don't peek out of the head
on finished mouse.
 MOUSE Page 11

37 38 39 40

Insert next ear to other side. Pin fabrics sandwiching the Make sure to pin the rest of Sew together just like other
Front side of ear matching ear together. the fabric away from where side with two rows of
right side of face of mouse. you will sew. stitching.

41 42 43 44

Trim seam allowance on head Clip the seam allowance Close up: Locate the marks for arms
to be about 1/8" (.4 cm). on the curve of the neck on many small slits on the curve and legs.
all 4 sides. of the neck, make sure not to
clip the seams.

45 46 47 48

Right now the marks are on the Close up: Turn mouse right side out. Should look similar.
seam allowance, we need them mark on right side of seam Support the opening as you Note my ears came out a little
to show up on the right side of is on the seam allowance and pull mouse out to avoid different, this is why I prefer
fabric, to do that: simply draw mark on left side is on the ripping. to sew them on by hand after
thick dots on other side of seam
with a marker, pen, or pencil. fabric that will be visible on stuffing the toy, there is more
Make sure the marks are thick the mouse once turned control over how it turns out.
enough to show up on other side right side out. This will be But everyone is different so
of fabric. your guide for placing the choose whatever way you
limbs. prefer.
 MOUSE Page 12

49 50 51 52

Find the marks for arms and If you are using joints for To make marks for the joints Take arm pattern and make
legs, make sure they are limbs then put this body aside on limbs: a hole with a pin right on
visible. and go to next step. If sewing Place arms and legs so they the mark for joint.
the limbs with thread then mirror each other, you should
proceed to stuffing the body have a left + right arm
and limbs. and a left + right leg.

53 54 55 56

Align arm pattern with arm Flip pattern to match other Do the same for legs. Slide a disk onto split pin.
and make a small mark side and make a mark on
through the hole on the fabric. other arm.
Prioritize matching the top
part of pattern making the
hole centered.

57 58 59 60

Use a pin to help create a Insert split pin with disk Have split pin come out of With small puffs of fill stuff
hole on arm where mark is. inside arm. arm right at the mark, careful the arm firmly, beginning at
not to pull individual threads the bottom working your way
making up the fabric of arm. up to the shoulder.
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61 62 63 64

Use chopstick to firmly stuff Then gradually fill up the Should end up looking View from the back.
the bottom of arm (where rest of arm. as pictured.
"paws" would be). Shoulder area should be
stuffed loosely so it's not
too bulky.

65 66 67 68

Sew the opening closed Do the same for all arms Lay arms and legs near Take an arm and locate the
using a ladder stitch. and legs. body to understand which mark for it on the body.
limb goes where.

69 70 71 72

Insert the split pin inside the View from inside. Slide a disk onto split pin. There are two ends on the
fabric where the mark is Make sure there are no fabric split pin, we need to curl
(create a hole in fabric with folds in between the disk in them to secure disks in place.
needle prior to inserting a the arm and disk on the body.
split pin to make it easier).
 MOUSE Page 14

73 74 75 76

Use small pliers or forceps. Curl both ends of the split pin. One arm is done, should look Do this for all arms and legs.
These curls need to press the as pictured.
disk down firmly so the arm
will be firmly attached to body
and will hold it's position.

77 78 79 80

Stuff the head/body with puffs Stuff starting with filling up Hold head with other hand Pay close attention to the
of fill such as pictured. the head with fill and pressing snuggly to help it take the muzzle. It needs to be stuffed
Stuffing needs to be very firm, it in. right shape as you stuff and firmly as well, use chopstick
it is what gives this type of toy to support fabric and seams. to help press fill in firmly into
the look that it has. muzzle. Support with other
hand to help the shape.

81 82 83 84

Head needs to end up round Observe from all angles to View from the back. View from the front.
and smooth. Keep stuffing see if any part of the head
and pressing fill in to achieve needs more stuffing.
this.
 MOUSE Page 15

85 86 87 88

Then stuff the neck, Continue to stuff the body Should look as pictured. There should be enough fill
not as firmly but enough to support the belly with other near the opening so it doesn't
make it look full. hand as you stuff. appear empty.
Body will be easier to stuff
and won't need as much
stuffing as the head, just
enough to make it look round.

89 90 91 92

Cut twine for a tail and tie Insert one end with a knot Close the opening using a Push fabrics on sides of the
knots on each end to keep inside the opening at the very ladder stitch or any stitch opening together with other
it from unraveling. Better to bottom. you'd like. hand as you hold the mouse,
cut longer and trim later this will make it easier to sew.
than to cut too short of a tail. If you notice the area under
the opening is empty (as you
sew it closed) add some more
fill before finishing the seam.

93 94 95 96

Make a few stitches right Should look similar to photo. To embroider the face start Notice how the character
through the tail to secure it with finding a good of the mouse changes due
in place. placement for eyes. To do to positioning of the eyes.
that simply insert pins in
different locations on the face
and see what you like best.
 MOUSE Page 16

97 98 99 100

Another placement I'm going to go with this Check from above to make Pull out the pins and draw
pictured here. placement. sure eyes are same distance small ovals or circles in place
away from nose. of pins.

101 102 103 104

Just so. Add eyes brows if you'd like. Nose should be right above Adding eyelashes and a smiling
the longest part of the face. mouth make the mouse more
And a small nose in shape of a girl.
of an upside-down triangle.

105 106 107 108

Use a dark thread or a single Start out about 1" (2.5cm) Pull needle with thread so that Then make a tiny stitch in the
strand of an embroidery yarn or further away from eye. the end of thread sinks into eye to secure thread.
to embroider the face. Insert needle and have it go the head of the mouse a little
Using more threads at once out of the eye. bit.
might result in pulling of the
fabric and a distorted face.
 MOUSE Page 17

109 110 111 112

Then proceed to embroidering Then make a single stitch to Have needle go to next Then embroider the second
the eye with a satin stitch - create an eye brow. eyebrow and make a similar eye, try to make it identical
simply making vertical If using white fabric for mouse stitch. with first eye.
stitches until the eye looks (like I am here) then make
sure to make transitions from
good, add eye lashes eye to eyebrow to nose to mouth
if you'd like. slightly deeper in the face, so
the embroidery thread that
connects everything doesn't
show through the skin.

113 114 115 116

Then have needle go to nose. Embroider a small nose. Then embroider the mouth. And have needle go back out
of the nose.

117 118 119 120

Make a tiny hidden stitch Pull thread gently and trim. If you pulled the face a bit too Here's a close up of a different
and have needle go out of the much simply use a needle to face. Mouth consists of 5
face about 1" (2.5cm) away "pull it out". small stitches.
from nose.
 MOUSE Page 18

121 122 123 124

If you are sewing on limbs Pin legs to body to determine View from the side. Draw small marks on legs and
lay them out near body to where they will be. body where they will be sewn
understand what limb goes You may also use the guides together. This should be
where. on the pattern for this. about 1/4" (.6cm) down from
I prefer legs to be slanted top of the leg.
so the toes are almost
together.

125 126 127 128

Pictured: making mark on Then attach matching thread Then start to attach leg to Don't worry about getting
body. to mark on the leg, I do this body right where the mark is. a perfect fit from the first
by making a few small stitch, you may fix the
stitches. position slightly with next
stitches.

129 130 131 132

Pictured: one stitch in leg and Tighten the thread to bring It helps if you hold the Keep making stitches until
one in body. leg close to body and keep leg to body with one hand leg is firmly sewn to body.
making horizontal stitches in and sew with other.
leg, body, leg body...
 MOUSE Page 19

133 134 135 136

Basic diagram, "road map" Should end up similar. Do the same for other leg. And repeat for arms.
of stitches. Pictured here arms pinned in
place.

137 138 139 140

View from side. Should end up similar. If you are sewing on the Tuck in the raw edges
ears by hand: of opening.
About 1/4" (.6 cm) in

141 142 143 144

Iron flat so they keep their Play around with finding a Keep re-pining in different I like the way this looks.
shape. perfect place for them. places. I prefer to curl the ears
at the base so they are not in
a straight line, but a curved
one (curve seen better in next
photo).
 MOUSE Page 20

145 146 147 148

Pin with at least two pins to Lift ear a little bit to secure Then simply keep making Pictured here I'm making a
hold ears on place. thread to head or ear. stitches in head, ear, head, stitch in the ear. Needle is
Look from all angles to ear, head, ear... and attaching going through all layers of
make sure ears are pinned the ear to head this way ear.
symmetrically. all throughout the length
of the opening on ear.
Pictured here I'm making a
stitch in the head under ear.

149 150 151 152

Stitch in the head again. Edges of ears need extra Should look similar. View from side.
stitches holding them to head
as they will be under more
tension if a child pulls on ear.

153 154 155 156

Sew on second ear the same View from back. View from front. Add blushing cheeks using
way. a coloring pencil (wetting
View from above. the tip helps transfer the
pigment unto fabric), gel pen,
acrylic paint, pastel chalk...