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Introduction
In this tutorial we will focus on making a barrel for the FGC-9SD, the PARTISAN-9, the ROGUE-9 or the
REBEL-9 which are all integrally suppressed firearms that uses the same type of barrel. It is a special
barrel which has fifteen 2.3mm (2.5mm optionally) ports located 38mm past the chamber mouth.
The ports bleeds off gas making supersonic 124gr standard velocity ammo subsonic which greatly
reduce the sound of the gunshot compared to traditionally suppressed 9mm firearms.

This tutorial will also apply when making barrels in other calibers of various lengths available in the
V3 ECM Mega Pack. The porting JIGs are only available for barrels in and 9x19mm, 9x18mm and
380acp. Ported barrels are only useful for when using an integral suppressor. NEVER shoot a gun with
a ported barrel without the suppressor attached.

The porting and threading of the barrel is optional, all calibers and barrel lengths supported by the
V3 ECM Mega Pack can be made without porting or threading.

The multi caliber main ECM fixture, boring end pilot, chambering end pilot and throat end pilot is
universally used for 380acp, 9x19mm, 9x18mm and 40s&w.

10mm auto and 45acp uses the 10mm/45acp main ECM fixture, boring end pilot, chambering end
pilot and throat end pilot.

22lr and 32auto uses caliber specific main ECM fixtures and pilots.

The chambering rod is caliber specific. The 9x19mm chambering rod needs a taper, the 22lr, 32auto,
380acp, 9x18mm, 40s&w, 10mm auto and 45acp does not need a taper as they are considered
straight walled cartridges. However a 0.05mm chamber taper is beneficial even for straight walled
cartridges as it makes extraction easier.

Some calibers also need a throating rod which also is caliber specific. If a throating rod is needed for
the caliber you are making it will be included in the folder for that caliber.

The chambering rod described in Ivan’s V2 and V2.1 ECM tutorial is also compatible with the V3
9x19mm ECM process.

Credits
Big thanks to IvanTheTroll for creating the original ECM tutorial and to JStark1809 for creating the
FGC-9.

Special thanks to Cskeju for recognizing electro chemical machining as a way to make rifled barrels
long before 3D printing was a thing for the common man, and to Jeffrod and IvanTheTroll for
developing this method further. This is the foundation that makes all of this possible.

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Shopping List
1X - Adjustable Power Supply - 30Volt/10Amp.

500mm length of 6mm OD or 1/4inch OD steel round stock,

centerless ground rod is recommended.

500mm length of 4mm OD or 5/32inch OD steel round stock

(only used for 32 auto).

500mm length of 3mm OD or 1/8inch OD steel round stock

(only used for 22 LR).

500mm length of 40cr or 42cr explosion proof

seamless hydraulic steel tube - 16mm OD / 8.0
to 8.6mm ID. (used for 380acp, 9x19mm,
9x18mm and 40s&w)

500mm length of 40cr or 42cr explosion proof

seamless hydraulic steel tube - 18mm OD /
9.0mm ID (only used for 10mm auto).

500mm length of 40cr or 42cr explosion proof

seamless hydraulic steel tube - 18mm OD /
10.0mm ID (only used for 45acp).

500mm length of 40cr or 42cr explosion proof

seamless hydraulic steel tube - 12mm OD /
7.0mm ID (only used for 32auto).

500mm length of 1045 seamless steel tube -

8mm OD / 5.0mm ID (only used for 22lr).

For IMPERIAL 22lr barrels use 5/16 inch OD

and 5/32 to 13/64 inch ID tubes.

100mm length of stainless steel tube with an OD of 20mm and

an ID of 18mm or bigger. (Used for the barrel OD cutter)

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 3mm OD x 2.3mm ID or 4mm OD x 2.5mm ID
stainless capillary tube (only needed for the
ported barrels).

2X - 10x5mm disc magnets.

1X - Iodine free salt.

1X - Bucket - 15 litre (the lid is optional).

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 2X - Heavy duty alligator cable with banana
connectors (you need one black and one red).

1X – Small alligator clip.

Soldering iron.

Tin solder wire (60/40 is recommended).

Water Pump – Specification: 12 Volt, 6 Amps, 2x

barb connectors for 10mm or 3/8” hose.

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 Power adapter for the water pump – Specification: 12
Volt, 6 Amps

PVC Hose – Specification: 10mm or 3/8” Inner Diameter.

Rubber bands (different sizes and length).

Zip-ties (160mm x 3.6mm).

NON-COATED 0.8mm or 20AWG copper wire or silver plated copper

wire.

NON-COATED 1.0mm or 18AWG copper wire or silver plated copper

wire (only used for 45acp).

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 5X - 8x80mm concrete expander plug with screw.

Standard size flat metal file

with medium double cut teeth.

Power drill with adjustable speed and chuck key.

Bench vice.

Sand paper (240, 400, 800 and 1200grit).

Isopropyl alcohol.

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 JB weld or some other kind of 5 minute epoxy.

Ballistol, WD-40 or motor oil.

Patches of cloth or bore cleaning patches FOR 9mm.

9mm bore cleaning kit.

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Only for the SD Suppressor and Ported Barrel
You need this exact aluminium “solvent trap” or
“fuel filter” to be able to build the SD integral
suppressor for the FGC-9SD, PARTISAN-9,
ROGUE-9 or REBEL-9.

1.7inch x 10inch filter with 1/2-28 thread.

This fuel filter used to be widely available from

many sources like Ali Express, Alibaba, DHgate,
Wish and many more but now it is very hard to
find. If you don’t already own this fuel filter
chances are that you will not be able to find it
anyware for sale.

Luckily there is also the FTN3 version of the

ROGUE-9 and REBEL-9 which also are integrally
suppressed but is using a printed suppressor.

4X – m4x6mm button head screw.

5X – 2.3mm or 2.5mm drill bit, depending on what size

capillary tube you have (only needed for the ported
barrels).

1X - O-ring 16mm ID x 2.5mm cross section (only used on the SD

version suppressor)

1X - O-ring 37mm ID x 1.5mm cross section (only used on the SD

version suppressor).

1X - 608 skateboard ball bearing (only used when

threading the barrel).

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 1X - Small square file.

(Optional) 7mm straight reamer.

1X - 7mm drill.

1X - 10mm drill bit.

1X – 1/2-28tpi threading die and die handle.

1X - m4 threading tap and tapping

handle.

The example of the barrel that we are making in this tutorial is a 137 mm long 9x19mm threaded and
ported barrel intended for use with an integral suppressor but the same procedures and techniques
also applies when making non-ported and non-threaded barrels in other calibers and lengths. There
is a list of dimensions for all calibers supported in the V3 ECM Mega Pack further down in this
tutorial.

By using the correct OD and ID seamless steel tube for the caliber of barrel you want to make and
simply by replacing the bore diameter, groove diameter and throat diameter as well as using the
correct main ECM fixture, pilots, mandrel, chambering rod and throating rod you can make barrels in
any of the supported calibers.

Some of the calibers use a separate throating rod to cut the throat and some uses the chambering
rod to cut the throat. The chamber depth and throat depth are set automatically by the chambering
pilot, throat pilot, chambering rod and throating rod.

The chamber depth, throat depth and throat length are designed into the tools and cannot be
changed, all you need to do is to make sure the tools are fully seated at all times when ECM cutting
the barrel.

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Overview of the Printed Tools
End Squaring JIG.

This tool is used to square and smoothen the end of the

barrel blank after it has been cut with the hacksaw.

The end squaring JIG is available for 8mm, 12mm, 16mm,

18mm OD barrel blanks.

Ports Drilling JIG.

This tool is used when drilling the ports in the

barrel. Drilling guide tubes inserts made from
stainless capillary tube is cut to 28mm lengths and
inserted into the holes of the six arms.

The window in the ports drilling JIG is used to

index the ports so when you later cut the rifling
grooves they are cut perfectly on top the ports.

The porting JIG is available for 3mm OD and 4mm

OD inserts.

608 Bearing Block.

This tool is used to hold a 608 ball bearing, the bearing block can
then be clamped in the vice.

The 608 bearing block is only used if you want to thread the
barrel.

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 OD Reducer.

This tool is used to reduce the OD of the barrel

at the muzzle from 16mm to 12.7mm. It is only
used if you want to thread the muzzle of the
barrel to accept a threaded suppressor.

The two parts of the OD reducer are installed

on both ends of a 70mm long piece of 20mm
OD by 18mm ID stainless tube. Rubber bands
are used to keep the parts attached to the
stainless tube. The OD reducer is only available
for 16mm OD barrel blanks and for 19mm,
20mm and 21.9mm OD stainless tubes. It is
only compatible with 9x19mm and 380acp.

Thread Alignment Tool or TAT.

A 4mm diameter by 70mm long steel rod is fully inserted into the
hole in the TAT to stiffen and strengthen it.

The threading die is first threaded onto the threaded boss on the
TAT, the non-threaded end of the TAT is then inserted into the
muzzle of the barrel. The TAT ensures that the threading die is
perfectly aligned with the barrel.

The TAT is available for 1/2-28 threading dies and for 9x19mm,
9x18mm and 380acp caliber.

The TAT is only used if you want to thread the barrel.

Hose Fitting and Main ECM Fixture.

The hose fitting threads into the bottom of the

main ECM fixture and supply the barrel with
water from the pump. The 10mm hose fittings
is used with 10mm and 3/8” ID tubing and the
12.7mm hose fitting is used with 1/2” ID
tubing.

The main ECM fixture is responsible for holding

the barrel blank and to keep the boring rod
concentric inside the barrel blank.

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 Boring Pilot.

The boring pilot is responsible for keeping the boring

rod concentric inside the barrel blank when the barrel
blank
Is being bored.

Throating Pilot.

The throating pilot is responsible for holding the throating

or chambering tool at a set depth inside the barrel when
the throat is cut. Some of the available calibers does not
use a throating tool, instead they use the chambering tool
inserted in the throating pilot to cut the throat.

The throating pilot is marked with a T.

Chambering Pilot.

The chambering pilot is responsible for holding the

chambering tool at a set depth inside the barrel when
the chamber is cut.

Both the chambering pilot and the throating pilot uses

a 10x5mm
disc magnet to hold the steel rod of the
chambering/throating tool to prevent the tool from
falling down into the bore of the barrel.

The chambering pilot is marked with a C.

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 Tool Spacing JIG and Chambering/Throating
Insulators.

The tool spacing JIG is used when making the

chambering tool and throating tool to ensure
that the tools are made to the correct length.

The throating insulator is marked with a T and

the chambering insulator is marked with a C.

After the steel rod is glued into the insulator it

becomes the throating tool or chambering tool.

The difference between the chambering tool and

throating tool is the amount of exposed steel
rod. The total length of both tools is identical.

The throating insulator is slightly shorter

compared to the chambering insulator, leaving
slightly more of the steel rod exposed on the
throating tool.

This is because the throat needs to be cut slightly

deeper inside the barrel compared to the
chamber.

Rifling Mandrel.

The rifling mandrel is responsible for cutting the

rifling grooves in the barrel. Copper wires are feed
through the wire channels in the mandrel.

The notch in the base of the rifling mandrel is used to

index the barrel to ensure that it’s indexed correctly
after you have disassembled and reassembled the
ECM setup for taking measurements of the grooves
and also to index the rifling grooves on top the barrel
ports if you are making the ported barrel.

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 Preparing the Barrel Blank
Now let’s make two tools that will be very helpful during this process as well as for other things in
general. The first tool will enable us to work on the outer diameter of the barrel. Start by taking an
8x80mm plastic concrete expander and cut 20mm off from the flange side of the plug and then cut
the screw head off. We can now chuck the screw in an electric drill and insert the plastic expander
into the bore. If the expander is not tight in the barrel a couple wraps of tape around it helps.

Tightening the screw into the expander gives us a great way of turning the barrel with an electric
drill. This is useful when we are grinding the ends of the barrel tube straight as well as when we
polish or work or the outside of the barrel.

The next tool we will make will enable us to polish or hone the inside of the barrel tube, the bore.
This is very important as it removes oxidation, rust, oil and grease which will hinder the ECM process
as well as smoothen the bore to a mirror finish which is what we want.
Any imperfections in the bore will follow through the ECM process and will still be present after the
barrel is finished unless we remove them first.

Start by taking a 6mm carbon fibre, aluminium or wooden dowel that is at least 50mm longer than
the barrel you intend to make and cut a 50mm long slot along its length with a hacksaw.
Cut a 60x100mm piece of wet and dry sandpaper in a few different grits. 400, 800 and 1200grit are
good choices. The sandpaper can be inserted into the slit and then wrapped around the dowel.

We will hone the bore with this tool later after the outside of the barrel is done.

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Cut a 138mm long section from your explosion-proof hydraulic tube. Clamp the tube in the wise and
use a file to straighten the ends of the tube roughly as best as you can, the uncut end of the hydraulic
tube has chamfers from the factory which we want to remove. We do this by filing off around 1mm
of the un-cut end with a file. If you want to make a barrel of a specific length you need to cut the
barrel blank to the same length as in the filename of the mandrel you are using, plus minus 2mm.

The ECM boring process will create a smooth rounded edge at the breech end and the muzzle end of
the bore, we don’t want the rounded edge to be bigger than necessary for maximum chamber
support at the rear of the cartridge case which is why we want to remove the chamfer from the
factory completely before ECM boring the barrel.

The ECM induced rounded edge will give us a perfectly symmetric and concentric muzzle crown for
better accuracy of the barrel and at the chamber end it will improve feeding of the cartridges.

Now insert your expander tool in the bore of the hydraulic tube and chuck it in the drill, then insert
the tube in the "end squaring JIG". Rotating the barrel while you insert it in the JIG makes it easier as
it can be a bit tight the first time.
Place a sheet of 80grit sandpaper and the flat metal file on the floor.

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Put one foot on the file to hold it in place and use your hand to push the JIG flat against the file while
spinning the barrel fast with the electric drill. Drag the JIG along the file while making sure that you
don’t tilt the JIG.

Proceed until the end of the barrel is straight and any chamfer in the bore from factory is removed.
Now move on to the 80 grit paper and repeat the process, you can drag the JIG slowly over the paper
by making small twisting motions with your hand, making sure to push down on the JIG so it sits flat
against the paper at all times. Proceed until you have a smooth finish on the end of the barrel.

Now tilt the barrel and run its edge against the paper while supporting it with the JIG in your hand,
dragging the barrel edge a few times over the paper to create a small chamfer on the outside of the
barrel. Putting your foot on the paper helps to hold it in place. Now swap over the expander tool to
the other end of the barrel and repeat the steps of this process on the other end of the barrel.

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Now it’s time to hone the bore of the barrel. Start with 400grit sandpaper, insert the short side of the
sandpaper in the slot of the honing tool and tightly wrap the sandpaper around the dowel. If the
sandpaper “scroll” does not fit in the bore, cut it down with a scissor until it fits in the bore, it needs
to be pretty tight.

You can use a small patch of flooring foam or similar inside the sandpaper scroll to make it expanding
to get an even better fit and more force applied to the bore by the sandpaper.

The honing tool can now be chucked in the electric drill and used to polish the bore by doing long
slow strokes from end to end of the tube.

Always set the rotation of the drill to the opposite direction as you rolled up your sandpaper scroll to
prevent the sandpaper from un-ravelling and seizing up inside the bore.

Repeat this process using 800grit and then 1200grit paper.

Drilling the Barrel Ports

THIS STEP IS OPTIONAL! If you don’t intend to use the barrel with an integral suppressor you
don’t need to port it and you can skip this section of the tutorial and continue to page 21.

NEVER attempt to fire the gun without the suppressor if it has a ported barrel, it is extremely
dangerous!!!

Cut at least six 28mm long pieces of your 4mm x 2.5mm(or 3mm x 2.3mm if that’s the one you got)
stainless capillary tube and insert one(or more) tube in each of the six rows of the porting JIG. You
might have to carefully drill or ream the holes in the JIG with a 3mm or 4mm drill to get the tubes to
fit.

The inserts should be flush with the inside of the porting JIG, using the barrel blank to prevent over
insertion of the inserts is a good idea.

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Now insert your 2.5mm drill (or 2.3mm drill for the 2.3mm tube) in the JIG until it reaches the centre
of the JIG and chuck the drill at the mouth of the insert to set the maximum drilling depth to prevent
the drill from touching the other end of the bore when drilling through the barrel wall, tighten the
chuck as hard as you can so the drill does not slip and lose its set drilling depth.

Insert the barrel into the JIG making sure it’s fully seated, then clamp the barrel in the vice.

Drill the first hole in the barrel, use the slowest setting on your drill (around 300RPM) and dip your
drill in oil frequently. Drill for 10 seconds then remove the metal shavings and dip your drill in oil
again. This is VERY important and needs to be repeated along the entire drilling process as the drill
will be destroyed before you get the first hole drilled if you fail to do this.

The insert will bind up the drill with metal shavings unless they are cleaned away frequently.
Drilling too fast will destroy the drill in only a couple of seconds, drill slowly!
Once you got the first hole drilled, insert a spare drill in the hole and through the barrel wall to lock
the JIG from rotating on the barrel.

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Drill the next hole in the row 180 degrees from the first hole and insert a spare drill here too, use
something sharp to scratch two deep lines along the sides of the window in the JIG. These marks will
be used when you indexing the rifling mandrel later and will ensure that the ports are perfectly
aligned within the rifling groves which is VERY important for good accuracy of a ported barrel.

Continue to drill the rest of the holes by repeating the process, you don’t need to insert more drills in
the holes as two is sufficient to lock the JIG from rotating and messing up the port alignment and
indexing. You can relocate the inserts in the JIG from the already drilled holes to holes that are not
yet drilled, that way you don’t need a lot of inserts.

Now remove the JIG from the barrel, it might be stuck pretty good. Take a tube with bigger inside
diameter than the barrel and hold one end against the floor.

Insert the barrel in the tube and drop/fling it so the JIG hits the end of the tube, the G-forces will
push the barrel out of the JIG. Using some padding to protect the barrel once it breaks free is a good
idea, just push some fabric or similar into the tube to cushioning the barrel once it breaks free from
the JIG.

Make sure that all holes are drilled completely through the barrel wall, if not its fine to drill the last
bit without the JIG carefully.

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Now you need to remove the burrs from the inside of the ports, take the 7mm reamer or drill and
chuck it in your electric drill. Visually measure the location of the ports in the bore so your drill or
reamer will reach them.

Put your electric drill flat on the floor and insert the 7mm drill or reamer in the bore, hold the barrel
and spin it with your hand while slowly running the drill, pushing the bore walls against the drill or
reamer with light pressure while constantly spinning the barrel with the palm of your hand.

Proceed until all burrs are removed from the ports then inspect that the ports are open and not filled
with shavings. Your barrel should now look like this. Notice the lines scared on the barrel in right
picture, this will be the chamber end of the barrel and the lines will be used to index the rifling
mandrel later.

Clean the barrel well with alcohol and push an alcohol soaked patch through the bore with a dowel a
few times, then put the barrel in the alcohol bottle and close the lid. Let it sit in the bottle for a few
minutes and then shake the bottle well, this will clean everything out of the barrel and clean the
ports.

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Tilt the bottle slightly and fish up the barrel by inserting a dowel into the bore.
Now we need to tape the ports up so water won’t flow through them when we start the ECM
process. Use electrical tape and stretch it as you wrap it around the ports so it’s watertight. Don’t
tape up too much of the barrel as this can interfere with the ECM fixture, 5 mm past the ports is
sufficient.

The barrel is now ready for the ECM process but first we need to setup the ECM bucket and make
some tools and fixtures.

Preparing the ECM Tools and Bucket

Start with the main ECM fixture. The V3 main fixture has built in supports for the rubber band ears
which are easy to remove, the picture below is the fixture after the supports have been removed.
Print this fixture standing with the four prongs pointing up, don’t use supports and print it with
0.16mm layer height.

Now we need to make the boring rod, make it from 6mm steel rod or stainless steel rod. Cut a
300mm long section of rod and file a V-notch in one end and a then chamfer the other end. Make
sure the rod is perfectly straight!

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The V-notch is there to prevent the rubber bands from slipping off the rod, smoothen the edges of
the notch to prevent the sharp edges from cutting the rubber band.
Chuck the rod in your electric drill and polish it with 800 and 1200 grit sandpaper.

Now let’s make the boring end pilot, throating end pilot and the chambering end pilot. Print all pilots
standing with the four prongs pointing up and with 0.16mm layer height and use supports every
ware. You can print all three in one go. Remove the supports for the ears on the boring end pilot and
set it aside as it’s finished. Adding zip ties to the prongs of the fixture/pilots are optional, it can help
to achieve better concentricity if the fixture/pilot is not sitting tight on the barrel. Install the barrel in
the fixture/pilots before installing the zip ties to prevent the prongs from snapping off.

Remove all supports from the throating end pilot and the chambering end pilot, making sure there is
no support strands left in the hole at the bottom of the pilot.
Now take a 10x5mm disc magnet and glue it into the hole in the bottom of the pilots. Make sure it’s
fully seated and that no glue is squished into the small end of the hole. Use a small flathead
screwdriver to remove any glue that gets into the small hole as the chambering rod has to be able to
touch the magnet.

The magnet will set the depth of the chambering and throating rods and make sure they are held in
place during the ECM process. The chambering rod should touch the magnet when you insert it later.
The chambering end pilot is marked with a C and the throating end pilot is marked with a T.
Ignore that the magnets in the pictures are square as the pictures shows the prototype pilots.

Now we need to make the chambering rod. Some calibers also require a throating rod to be made.
For those calibers there will be a C insulator and a T insulator. The chambering and throating rods are
made in the same way using the same caliber specific tool spacing JIG.

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The difference in chambering depth and throating depth between different calibers are set by the
pilots and also by the different amount of exposed steel rod in the throating and chambering rods
due to the different length of the C and T insulators.
The 9x19mm chambering rod is used both for throating and for chambering and the rod should have
a specific taper matching the taper of the 9x19mm cartridge case.

If you own a 9x19mm chamber finishing reamer you should use it to chamber the barrel instead of
ECM chambering it but you need to use the reamer specific mandrel if you want to do this. READ the
notes in the 9x19mm reamer folder for more info.

The 22lr uses an un-tapered chambering rod, 22lr barrels does not need a tapered chamber.

The 32auto, 10mm auto, 40s&w and 45acp calibers needs one rod for chambering and one for
throating but they are all made in the same way, just using different insulators.

The 9x19mm chambering rod needs a taper, the 22lr, 32auto, 380acp, 9x18mm, 10mm auto, 40s&w
and 45acp does not need a taper as they are considered to be straight walled cartridges.

We will make a 9x19mm chambering rod in this example. Start by cutting a 76mm long piece of 6mm
steel rod and chamfer both ends of the rod slightly. Insert the rod in the insulator and then into the
tool spacing JIG. Line up the end of the rod and the bottom of the insulator so they are perfectly flush
with both ends of the tool spacing JIG and then mark the rod where the insulator begins with a pen.

Remove the rod from the JIG and slide off the insulator, then tape up the long side of the rod 1mm
from the mark. Now measure 20mm from the mark and make another mark. The total length of the
taper should be applied between the tape and the second mark.

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Insert the rod with the taped up end first into the drill chuck and file the taper between tape and the
second line. There should not be much taper at all so don’t file too much.

Remove the rod from the chuck and remove the tape from the rod, if we need to adjust the taper
any further the tape is no longer needed as a shoulder has been formed on the rod that we can hold
the file against.
Insert the rod in the insulator and into the JIG again like you did previous and make sure the ends are
flush with the ends of the JIG. Mark the rod where the insulator begins just like you did before.

Remove the rod from the JIG and slide off the insulator again, then make a new mark exactly 16mm
from the mark where the insulator begins. Now measure the diameter of the rod at the two different
marks, the absolute diameter is not important, it’s the difference in diameter at the two different
marks that is important.
We want a difference of 0.20 to 0.30mm where 0.25mm is optimal. Let’s say that the diameter at the
first mark is 5.60mm, then we want the diameter at the second mark to be as close to 5.85mm as
possible +- 0.05mm.

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The reason that we applied the taper to a longer section than the intended chambering depth of
16.00mm is because when cutting the throat the rod sits 3.5mm deeper into the barrel and we don’t
want any un-tapered section of the rod inside the barrel when we are cutting the throat. It also
makes the rod easier to make compared to the V2 ECM rod.

It’s a good idea to polish the tapered section of the rod with 400, 800 and 1200 grit paper before
gluing it into the insulator.

Mix up some JB weld and apply it to the inside of the insulator, smearing it around onto the insulator
walls. Do not add any glue onto the rod itself. Wipe of any JB weld from the outside and the end of
the insulator and insert the rod while turning it but don’t insert it all the way just yet.

The hole in the bottom of the insulator will allow excessive glue to escape. Insert the chambering rod
in the tool spacing JIG and use two straight pieces of any material to push together the insulator and
the rod until they are perfectly flush with both ends of the JIG.

You will need to wipe away the glue that escapes through the hole in the insulator a few times until
you can get it seated flush with both ends of the tool spacing JIG.
Let the rod cure in the JIG for a one hours and do not move it.

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Remove the chambering rod from the JIG and inspect it where the insulator meets the steel rod, you
want to make sure that no glue has squeezed out here and onto the rod.
Your chambering rod is now finished.

Now it’s time to make the mandrel. Some of the longer mandrels are glued together from two or
three sections. In this example we will build a three section 280mm mandrel simply because I already
have a 137mm mandrel and also for demonstration purposes on how to build the longer mandrels.
It’s the same procedure building the shorter mandrels except that they are only one piece.

Print the mandrel sections with the base down and use 0.12mm layer height, 15mm/s print speed
and 4 walls, 100% infill and 95% flow rate/extrusion multiplier. Use PLA+ and a temperature of 210
degrees and 100% fan and do not use any supports.
Avoid using black PLA+ for the mandrel as it has a “micro stringing” problem which makes installing
the copper wires very hard. If the wires don’t fit in the mandrel, reprint the mandrel with a flow
rate/extrusion multiplier of 90% and try again.

The support disc on the mandrel section 2 and 3 should be removed after printing, it breaks away
easy. Just wiggle it some back and forth until it’s free and slide it of the mandrel.
We are going to use bare solid copper wire for the mandrel, make sure there is no coating on the
wire before using it. You can confirm that it’s uncoated wire by using a multimeter to measure at the
side of the wire for continuity. Do not try to use coated wire which had the coating removed, there
will always still be areas with the coating intact and your barrel will be ruined.

For the 9x19mm, 9x18mm, 22lr, 32auto, 380acp, 40s&w and 10mm auto mandrels we will use
0.75mm or 0.8mm (20awg) wire and for the 45acp mandrel we will use 1.0mm (18awg) wire.

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Before we glue the mandrel pieces together we will prepare them for an easy wire installation. Start
by taking a needle or clothing pin and insert it in all channels that have been oriented towards the
bed when printing to open the channels up. Then take a scrap piece of the wire and feed it through
all channels of the individual mandrel sections once.

Now let’s join mandrel sections, cut a 75mm long piece of 1.5mm diameter piano wire or similar and
smoothen the ends with some sandpaper. Cut a bunch of 25x15mm pieces of thick paper from a milk
box or similar that is thick enough to fit snuggly in the wire channels.

Now mix up a small amount of JB weld and use a scrap 0.8mm wire to apply a small amount of glue
inside centre hole in the mandrel. Wipe away any glue outside the hole, taking care not to get it into
the wire cannels then insert the 1.5mm piano wire in the hole, twisting it in until it’s fully seated.

Put glue inside the hole of the second mandrel section and join the sections together. Now inspect
that no glue has found its way into the wiring channels then rotate the sections until you get the best
match of the groves and lands between the two mandrel sections. Take six pieces of the thick paper
and insert them in the channels at the seam to align and secure the mandrel sections so they can’t
shift and let the glue cure. Repeat this step for the third mandrel section.

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It’s time to install the wires in the mandrel. Cut 6 pieces of wire, 80mm longer than the mandrel
itself. Apply heat shrink to the jaws of your needle nose pliers to protect the wire from getting
scratched. There is a good chance that you can feed the wire by hand through the mandrel, if you can
that’s great as it eliminates the risk of damaging the surface finish of the wire.

Feed the wire from the muzzle end using short strokes with the pliers, jaws held close to the mandrel
end so the wire does not bend or kink. Keep feeding the wire until it protrudes out the base end of
the mandrel and then pull it so you get about 60mm of sickout at the base end.

Cut the wire flush with the muzzle end and pull it 1mm further so it’s just below flush. Repeat for the
rest of the wires and make sure that the wires are sitting fully inside their channels and not
protruding out past the OD of the mandrel as it will cause the mandrel to short circuit against the
barrel.

Mix up some JB weld and fill up the cavity in the muzzle end, use the scrap wire or a toothpick to
apply the glue and try to get it around the wires and onto the walls of the cavity.
Pushing the muzzle end of the mandrel down into the mixed puddle of glue will help it get inside and
around the wires until the cavity is full. Wipe of any mess of glue with some alcohol, also make sure
to wipe away any glue that pushed through into the wire channels then let the glue cure.

29
Add glue in the cavity at the chamber end as well in the same way and then twist the wires in the
same direction as they spiral in the mandrel. Make sure no glue gets into the water ports, a rag and
alcohol will be useful to clean any JB weld off.

After the glue has cured you can twist the wires a bit more and then solder them together so they
are all guaranteed to be connected even if they become corroded later. Be VERY careful not to
overheat the wire and melt or deform the mandrel when you solder the wires.
It’s a good idea to only solder up the ends of the wire to reduce the risk of damaging the plastic or to
submerge the mandrel in a tall glass or bottle of water to cool it as you solder the wires.

Sand the seams of the mandrel so they are the same diameter as the rest of the mandrel (remove
elephants foot), use 240 grit sandpaper and be careful. Once the mandrel is uniform do a couple of
light strokes along the whole length of the mandrel to remove any blobs. Clean the mandrel and
make sure the wires are exposed along all channels.

Let’s start building the ECM bucket. In this example we will use a 15 litre bucket. Drill a hole in the
bucket 20mm from the bottom that’s 2mm SMALLER than the outside diameter of your pump hose.
Install the hose in the bucket by pushing it into the undersized hole so it protrudes around 50mm
inside the bucket. It’s a tight friction seal and it will stay pretty much watertight. Cutting the tube at
an angle makes pushing it through the hole easier.

On some pumps there will be a mesh filter inside the intake hose connector and sometimes inside
the outlet connector too, remove the filters before using the pump as it will clog really quickly during
the ECM process.

30
Take the other end of the hose and connect it to the "water in" side of the pump.
Connect another hose to the "water out" side of the pump. Connect the 12v / 6a power adapter to
the water pump. Make sure the polarity is correct then solder and insulate the wires.

Print the hose fitting with 0.16mm layer height, 215 degrees temperature and with supports to bed
only. Take a plastic flower pot which is slightly smaller in diameter than the bottom of the bucket.
Drill a hole in the centre of the bottom of the flower pot big enough for the threads of the printable
hose fitting to pass through, and then drill a few smaller holes in the bottom of the pot so any air
that’s trapped inside the pot can escape. Cut a wide slot in the side of the pot.

Install the printed hose fitting threads first into the hole from the inside of the pot and thread on the
ECM main fixture from the other side, clamping the pot between the fixture and the hose fitting.
Connect the hose from the "water out" side of the pump to the main fixture hose connector inside
the pot. Make sure this hose is long enough as the hose will need to reach up over the buckets edge
and down to the pot in the bottom of the bucket.
Add zip ties to all connections and place the pot upside down in the bucket.

This setup is called counter flow, water is pumped up through the barrel from the bottom instead of
flowing down from the top. Counter flow produces better results by reducing the risk of air getting
into the bore as well as a more stable water flow and also by reducing the amount of air bubbles in
the water inside the bucket. The returning water will flow down onto the bottom of the pot which
will shield the water in the bucket from the splash, reducing the amount of air bubbles. Air bubbles
lead to inconsistent cutting and can cause the pump to stop pumping water due to air lock in the
pump.

Here is the list with the cutting dimensions for the different calibers.

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10mm Auto is completely UNTESTED and should not be considered safe until it is proven to be safe
by a lot of testing, 10mm auto should be considered experimental. Because of this you should use
18mm OD 40cr or 42cr tube for 10mm Auto. 18mm tubes are also used for 45acp even though it is a
low pressure round, this is because of the large bore.

380acp
8.84mm bore, 9.02mm grooves, 9.06mm throat. The .380acp mandrels has 1:16 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 14.35mm, Throat depth is 17.85mm and throat is 3.5mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

9x19mm luger
8.79mm bore, 9.02mm grooves, 9.06mm throat. The 9mm mandrels has 1:10 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 15.96mm, Throat depth is 19.59mm and throat is 3.63mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

10mm Auto
9.91mm bore, 10.17mm grooves, 10.22mm throat. The 10mm mandrels has 1:16 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 21.60mm, Throat depth is 26.10mm and throat is 4.50mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

40s&w
9.91mm bore, 10.17mm grooves, 10.22mm throat. The 40s&w mandrel has 1:16 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 18.07mm, Throat depth is 22.60mm and throat is 4.53mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

45acp
11.23mm bore, 11.46mm grooves, 11.51mm throat. The 45 mandrel has 1:16 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 18.70mm, Throat depth is 22.91mm and throat is 4.21mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

9x18mm Makarov
9.00mm bore, 9.27mm grooves, 9.31mm throat. The 9x18 Mandrels has 1:9.45 twist rate and
4 grooves. Chamber depth is 14.60mm, Throat depth is 18.10mm and throat is 3.5mm long.
The cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.
METRIC tools use 6mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/4 inch rods.

32 auto
7.72mm bore, 7.90mm grooves, 7.94mm throat. The 32 Auto mandrel has 1:16 twist rate and
6 grooves. Chamber depth is 17.40mm, Throat depth is 20.15mm and throat is 2.75mm long.
The case rim is recessed into the face of the barrel to a depth of 1.3mm (included in the chamber
depth), the rim recess is between 9.2mm to 9.5mm in diameter.
The cartridge headspaces on the front of the case rim.
METRIC tools use 4mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 5/32 inch rods.

22lr
5.51mm bore, 5.65mm grooves, No throat for 22lr. The .22lr mandrel has 1:16 twist rate and
3 groves (two stage cut makes 6 grooves in total). Chamber depth is 19.5mm. The rim of the case is
recessed 1.3mm into the bolt face to prevent slam fire.
The cartridge headspaces on the front of the case rim.
METRIC tools use 3mm steel rods and IMPERIAL tools use 1/8 inch rods.

32
 22lr specific ECM notes.
No throating is needed for 22lr, only chambering as the bullet and case has the same diameter.
Chambering depth is 19.5mm. The bolt has to be recessed 1.3mm deep to prevent slam fire when
the cartridge is chambered, the recess in the bolt needs to be between 7.0mm to 7.3mm in diameter.

8mm OD and 5mm ID 1045 seamless steel tubes are used for the 22lr barrels, the tube needs to be
114mm or 144mm long depending on which mandrel you use.

Barrels made with the imperial 22lr tools are made from 5/16 inch OD and 5/32 to 13/64 inch ID
tubes.

Bore the tube to 5.51mm. Index the #1 slot on the mandrel to the indexing marks on the barrel tube
and rifle the tube until a grove diameter of 5.58mm is achieved.

Because the calliper jaw opposite to the jaw that is resting inside the groove is resting on the bore
wall you will get a groove to groove distance of 5.65mm ones you cut the second set of grooves.

Remove the mandrel and re-index it to the #2 indexing slot and rifle the barrel again for exactly the
same amount of time it took to do the #1 rifling, your groove diameter should now measure 5.65mm.

Use the chambering rod to chamber the barrel until a 22lr cartridge can be fully chambered.

The ECM Process.

Now the fun part begins, the ECM process. The first step is called boring.
Install the boring end pilot on the chamber end of the barrel. This is the side with the two indexing
marks you scratched into the barrel during the porting step. If you are making an un-ported barrel it
does not yet matter which side you install the boring pilot on.

33
Install the barrel in the ECM fixture, optionally you can put zip ties on the prongs of the ECM fixture
and the boring end pilot but it’s not mandatory.

Insert the boring rod through the barrel with the V-notch facing up, make sure it’s fully seated in the
fixture. It can be tight the first time and you might have to use pliers to remove the rod when
disassembling the setup the first couple of times.

Attach two short and powerful rubber bands between the ears of the fixture and the ears of the
boring end pilot, and then attach two longer and weaker rubber bands from the fixture ears to the V-
notch in the boring rod. You don’t want to use powerful rubber bands for the boring rod as the rod
could bend, the fixture and pilots however needs to be held together tight against the high pressure
of the pump.

34
Mix up 10 litres of water with 125grams of iodine free salt in a separate bucket and make sure all salt
is dissolved, and then pour around 6 or 7 litres into your ECM bucket until it almost reaches the
bottom of the flower pot which holds the fixture.

Drill a 10mm hole in the bottom of a plastic bottle and cut the bottle off halfway. Slide the bottle
over the boring rod and the rubber bands, the bottle will catch the spraying water and redirect it
down back into the bucket.

Set both the Amps and Volts on your 30volt 10amp power supply to the maximum and connect the
red clamp to the barrel. Enable the pump and ensure you got good flow going, also inspect the pilot
and make sure it does not get pushed of the barrel from the water pressure. It needs to stay fully
seated on the barrel at all times, if it does not stay fully seated add some more rubber bands.

A strong neodymium magnet like the ones found in old computer hard drives can be suspended on a
string into the water to collect dissolved iron particles and will work as a very effective magnetic
filter.

Open the stopwatch app on your phone and then connect the black clamp on the boring rod. You are
going to take notes of all cutting times so you can use them in the future to make things easier.

The first time you do ECM you will have to measure a lot but experience and taking notes will make
the process a lot more predictable.

Turn on the power supply and simultaneously start the stopwatch, cut for 15 minutes and then
simultaneously turn off your power supply and pause the stopwatch. Disassemble the barrel from
the ECM setup and clean both the boring rod and the barrel, then measure the diameter of the bore.

Every time the setup is disassembled for measuring, the barrel bore and boring rod must be cleaned
with alcohol and a patch. It’s also a good idea to flip the barrel around every time you take the setup
apart for cleaning as it makes for a more consistent sized bore because the boring effect can be
slightly conical.

When you are close to the final bore diameter, cut for one or two minutes at a time and measure
again. The cutting rate for the boring process is usually around 0.01mm per minute but there is no
way to predict it 100% as a lot of factors play in like length of barrel, temperature, salt and dissolved
iron concentration and more.

35
Stop cutting when your bore diameter is EXACTLY 8.79mm. You need to use good digital callipers and
you need to MAKE SURE they are zeroed before measuring. It is important to not undershoot any
dimensions, rather cut 0.01mm to much than 0.01mm to little.

Remove the rubber bands and place them on a clean surface so they are not contaminated with dirt
or dust that could enter the bucket and cause a blockage. Clean the barrel very well and dunk it in
the alcohol bottle as you did after the porting step. This will slow down the otherwise rapid rusting of
the barrel. Clean the boring rod and apply oil to it before storing it to prevent rusting.

Take the mandrel and insert it in the end of the barrel that has the two scratched lines. Make sure
it’s completely seated and line the two scratched lines up with the two prongs of the mandrel that
has a notch in between them. If you are making an un-ported barrel you need to scratch the lines
into the barrel now so you have a way of re-indexing the mandrel when you reassemble the setup
after measuring.
If the mandrel is tight and does not fit into the bore you need to sand it slightly more until it fits. DO
NOT over bore the tube to get the mandrel to fit.

Put a zip tie around the mandrel prongs and install the barrel into the ECM fixture, making sure both
the barrel and mandrel is fully seated and that the two lines still lines up with the prongs of the
mandrel. Attach the strong rubber bands in the same way as with the boring step.

36
Make a new cut off bottle but with a 5mm hole in the bottom. Connect the red clamp to the barrel
and slide the bottle over the soldered wires of the mandrel. Turn on the pump and make sure water
is squirting out of all 6 water ports and that the rubber bands are strong enough to keep the mandrel
fully seated. Connect the black clamp to the soldered wires on the mandrel.

The rifling step is fast, 5 minutes is probably enough so cut carefully and measure a lot so you don’t
overcut it. When close, cut only 10 seconds at a time. Measure from the muzzle side of the barrel,
insert the callipers jaws only halfway into the muzzle to avoid the jaws from riding on the sides of the
rifling due to the rifling being diagonal. You need to get the measurements from the bottom of the
rifling groves.

Use moderate pressure on the callipers when measuring, don’t press too hard or too lose. You want
to turn the barrel slowly back and forth while measuring so the callipers really get down into the
groves. When you get to 9.02mm you are done with the rifling process.

If you measure less than 9.02mm, reassemble the mandrel making absolutely sure that the two
prongs with the cut-out in between them lines up perfectly with the two scratched lines on the
barrel. Keep cutting until your grove diameter is 9.02mm.
Now clean the barrel well and also clean the mandrel with a toothbrush and alcohol.

Take your throating end pilot (marked with a T) and your chambering rod and insert the rod in the
pilot making sure it is seated all the way and touching the magnet. Then insert the throating
assembly into the end of the barrel that has the scratched lines and put a zip tie around the prongs.

Insert the barrel into the ECM fixture and attach the rubber bands, connect the small alligator clip to
the exposed rod in the pilot, then make a new bottle that has a cut-out or slit for the alligator clip
and put it over of the pilot. Connect the red clamp to the barrel and the black clamp to the alligator
clip then start the pump and get ready to start your stopwatch.

37
Turn on the power supply and start the stopwatch. Cut for 1 minute and 30 seconds exactly and then
measure the throat with the calliper yaws inside the chamber end of the barrel. Because the rod is
tapered the throat diameter at the start of the rifling will be slightly smaller compared to where you
measure but that is fine. Now cut only cut 10 seconds at a time until you measure 9.06mm with the
callipers. The throat is done now.

The chambering process is setup in exactly the same way as the throating process. Take your
chambering end pilot (marked with a C) and your chambering rod, insert the chambering rod in the
pilot making sure the rod is seated all the way and touching the magnet. Then insert the chambering
assembly into the barrel end with the scratched lines and put a zip tie around the prongs.

Hook up the electrical connections just like you did in the throating step and cut for 7 minutes.
You will be very close to being fully chamber. Take an unfired cartridge and chamber it, you can’t
easily tell visually if it chambered fully or not because 9x19mm headspaces on mouth of the
cartridge. BUT you can HEAR it.

Dry the chamber by twisting a dry patch into the chamber and pushing it through the barrel.
Chamber a live cartridge hard with your fingers and listen to the sound it makes, if the chamber is
not cut deep enough you will hear a "dull" low sound and the cartridge will stick slightly in the
chamber.

Keep cutting for 10 seconds at a time and dry the chamber before repeating the chambering test
until you instead hear a kind of metallic clinging sound and the cartridges no longer sticks in the
chamber but instead falls out by itself. This metallic sound tells you that the cartridge mouth makes
contact (headspaces) with the shoulder at the end of the chamber just behind the throat and not the
walls of the chamber which makes the dull sound.
The picture below shows a fully chambered cartridge, the back of the cartridge sticks out slightly over
3mm when it is fully chambered.

38
Push an oiled patch through the bore multiple times to prevent it from rusting. Also make sure you
oil the boring rod and chambering rod so they don’t rust during storage.
If you don’t want to thread the barrel, the barrel is now finished!
It’s a good idea to bake it in an oven for 3 hours at 200 degrees Celsius to reduce the potential risk of
hydrogen embrittlement of the steel. It’s not really proven that hydrogen embrittlement is a real
danger in ECM barrels but it’s still a good idea to perform this procedure just to be safe. It also makes
the barrel a bit less likely to rust as the oil is baked into a protective layer which also gives the barrel
a beautiful golden colour. If you do want to thread the barrel you can wait with the baking until the
treading is done.

CREDITS to “Broletariat” for the tips on baking the barrel in the oven.

Threading the Barrel

THIS STEP IS OPTIONAL! If you don’t intend to use the barrel with a threaded suppressor you
don’t need to thread the barrel and you can skip this section of the tutorial.

Now it’s time to start working on the threading for the suppressor, we will use ECM to cut the
outside diameter of the barrel from 16mm down to around 12.65mm for a 15mm long section at the
muzzle end.

Print the barrel OD cutter parts, use 0.16mm layer height, 8 walls, 30mm/s print speed and supports
from build plate only, cut a 70mm long piece from the 20mm OD x 18mm ID stainless tube and de-
burr the edges on the inside and outside of the tube.

Install the OD cutter parts on the tube. If it’s tight heat the plastic parts slightly with a hot air gun or a
hairdryer and retry. The new version of the OD cutter (not pictured in this tutorial) is held together
with rubber bands.

Dry fit the barrel in the cutter, the peg in the cutter part with the hose fitting should slide all the way
into the bore and the face of muzzle should butt up against the "disc" inside the cutter. If the peg
does not fit inside the bore, heat the barrel at the muzzle and try again, twisting the barrel makes it
easier to get it seated all the way into the cutter.

Now use packing tape and apply two revolutions around the barrel starting 14mm from the muzzle
end and back leaving 14mm un-taped and exposed, the ECM process will undercut the tape by 1mm
so you will have a 15mm long section of barrel reduced in diameter once the process is completed.

39
Make ABSOLUTLY sure that the edge of the tape is straight as this will dictate how straight your cut
will be. Apply another wrap of tape further back the barrel over lapping the previous tape by 5mm.
Now VERY carefully slide the cutter over the muzzle end without damaging the edge of the tape and
make sure the barrel is fully seated in the cutter.

Cut a 80mm long section of 16mm OD x 1/2 inch ID (12.7mm) garden hose and connect it to the hose
fitting on the od cutter then insert the garden hose into the ECM fixture so the barrel is pointing up.

Take a piece of silly putty or a foam ear protection plug and insert it into the chamber, then push it
through the bore with a dowel up against the peg of the cutter so it seals the bore from any water
leaking past the peg.

Then take some foam sheet and cut a 50 to 70 mm disc or square and make a 12mm hole in the
centre of it. Slide the disc over the chamber end of the barrel over the tape until it sits 10mm from
the cutter.

This will stop water from rushing up alongside the barrel and flowing into the bore through the
chamber end.

Connect the red clamp to the un-isolated end of the barrel and make a mark with a pen on the
chamber end. Connect the black clamp to the OD cutter tube and pull a plastic bag or a large cut off
bottle over the whole assembly. Start the pump and get ready with your stopwatch.

Turn on the power supply and start your stopwatch. The total cutting time is around 42 minutes but
every 11 minutes of cutting you need to turn off the power supply, pause the stopwatch and then
turn the barrel ¼ turn while holding the cutter so it does not turn with the barrel.

It’s also a good idea to remove the barrel from the cutter and cleaning the black build up from the
muzzle every time you stop the process to turn the barrel. The mark you did with the pen on the
chamber end will help you keep track of how much you turned it.

After you cut for 42 minutes and turned the barrel 3 times you can disassemble and measure the cut,
we need to cut until we have an outer diameter of around 12.65mm. It’s likely that you need to cut
one or two minutes more to get to 12.65mm.

Now that we have cut the outer diameter of the muzzle down to 12.65mm we can remove the tape
from the barrel and clean it with alcohol then wipe it with an heavily oiled patch and also push the
oiled patch through the bore a few times.

40
We need to remove the ECM induced fillet at the bottom of the shoulder and also straighten the
shoulder so a suppressor can butt up against it to sit concentric and straight. This is not as critical
with the integral suppressor as it is with a traditional suppressor but this step should still be
performed as the threading die won’t be able to thread the barrel all the way unless the fillet is
removed first.

Apply a few wraps of masking tape to the expander plug tool and insert it in the chamber and chuck
it in the drill. Take another 8x80mm expander and cut it down in length to 60mm and slide a
skateboard (608) bearing over it.

Wrap a rubber band around the plug and push the rubber band it against the bearing. The rubber
band protects the muzzle crown from getting damaged by the bearing.

Insert the plug in the muzzle end of the barrel and tighten the screw. Carefully clamp the bearing in
the vice directly or use the 3d printed 608 bearing block which is included in the file pack for easier
mounting in the vice.

The picture below shows the 608 bearing block (transparent) held in the vice and the concrete
expander (blue) inserted in the barrel. The long square object at the ECM fillet is the file.

Spin the barrel with the electric drill fast while taking the square file and pushing it down against the
fillet and back against the shoulder of the barrel like the picture shows.

41
Use high RPM on the electric drill and a do a back and forward motion with the file until the fillet is
removed and the shoulder has a straight 90degree angle. Don’t let the file dig too deep into the
barrel, if it does you need to redirect the pressure on the file more towards the shoulder instead of
down.

It’s also important to use a sharp file, preferably a new file as it will make this process a lot easier and
with much better results. The two pictures below shows how to hold the file.

The picture below shows the barrel with the ECM fillet removed completely.

42
It’s not very easy to get the shoulder straight and perfectly 90 degrees, if you’re going to use regular
suppressor it has to be perfect but for a reflex style suppressor or integral suppressor it doesn’t have
to be perfect because they are both telescoping over the barrel and do not rely on the shoulder for
concentricity like a regular suppressor does. Now the shoulder should hopefully be straight and it’s
time to thread the barrel.

Print the thread alignment tool (TAT) with a layer height of 0.16mm, 8 walls, 25mm/s and a
temperature of 210 degrees, do not use supports. Insert a piece of 4mm steel rod into the hole of the
TAT to stiffen it. Run the TAT through your 1/2-28 UNEF threading die once to open up the threads
making sure not to cross thread it. Install the die in the die holder so the text on the die faces away
from the barrel and screw the TAT into the die so the long peg of the TAT sticks out from the side of
the die without the text.

Keep screwing in the TAT until the first three threads of the die is exposed. Apply oil to the die and to
the barrel and insert the TAT into the bore. Put light pressure on the centre of the holder with your
palm and turn the holder one revolution to get it to bite into the barrel. Back it of slightly then do 1/4
to 1/2 of a turn at a time and backing up to break up the chips and at the same time backing out the
TAT as you go. Once you get 4 or 5 threads on the barrel you can completely back out the TAT and
remove it. Apply oil regularly and keep threading the barrel until you are almost at the shoulder.

When you are close to the shoulder, back of the die almost all the way and clean the chips off the
die, threads and off the shoulder then run the die down again until it stops against the shoulder.
Now the threading is done, back out the die and remove it from the barrel, clean all chips off the
barrel and oil it on the outside and inside the bore.

43
 Building the Integral Suppressor
Now let’s build the integral suppressor, also called the SD suppressor. Take the barrel and wrap some
teflon plumbers tape around the threads and screw the aluminium back cap onto the muzzle of the
barrel. Now setup the barrel with the expanders and bearing in the same way as you did when you
filed down the fillet after the muzzle OD reduction.

Use a file or a handheld belt sander and spin the barrel fast with the electric drill while grinding down
the outside diameter of the aluminium back cap until it fits inside the suppressor body. We will refer
to the aluminium back cap as the “mid cap” from now on. This method is not great but it’s the best
one I have found so far without using a lathe.

Print the 3d printed back cap and the wrench tool for it, print the back cap with 0.16mm layer height,
4 walls, 100% infill and supports to bed only. Screw four m4x12 mm screws into the end cap wrench
tool.

Install the printed back cap in the suppressor tube using the 3d printed suppressor wrench clamped
in the vice. Place the printed back cap on the wrench and turn the suppressor tube with both hands.
You need to heat the suppressor tube to get the printed back cap to thread in fully.

Heat the suppressor tube to 60 or 70 degrees C and then turn it until it’s too tight then reheat the
tube and keep turning it until the printed cap is fully seated. Now remove the printed back cap and
sand the inside of it with coarse sandpaper, then cover the inside of it with JB weld to protect it from
heat and the blast of the barrel ports. Make sure not to get any JB weld on the threads or inside the
16mm hole.

44
Remove the mid cap from the barrel and install the barrel in your FGC-9SD or in the SD versions of
the PARTISAN-9, ROGUE-9 or REBEL-9. They all use the same suppressor and building it is the same
for all four guns.

This manual uses the FGC-9SD as the example but the instructions apply to the SD versions of the
guns mentioned above as well. Pictured below is the 137mm long ported and threaded SD barrel for
the FGC-9SD. The FGC-9SD and PARTISAN-9 SD uses three shaft collars while the ROGUE-9 and
REBEL-9 only uses two with a 6mm wide printed spacer in between the two shaft collars.

Before you can continue with the suppressor build you need to build the suppressor host gun.

Install the mid cap on the barrel fully and measure the distance from front of the barrel retainer to
the back of the mid cap and wright down the measurement. Make four marks on the mid cap
halfway in between the centre threaded hole and the rim on the mid cap at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock
positions. Remove the mid cap and drill four 7mm holes through it at the marks.

Insert the mid cap into the suppressor tube with the side that has a thin walled rim facing forward
and slide it approximately 30mm into the tube, then install the printed back cap into the suppressor
until it’s fully seated.

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If your gun has an O-ring over the barrel remove it now, we will re-install it later. Insert the
suppressor on the barrel and rotate it while pushing it in so the barrel threads start gripping the
threads of the mid cap, keep rotating it until you feel it’s fully threaded onto the barrel. Push the
suppressor into the barrel retainer until the printed back cap butts up tight against the barrel
retainer’s back wall.

Slide the "SD Tube drill JIG" onto your suppressor tube until it sits at the distance from the barrel
retainer that you wrote down plus 1mm extra. If you for example measured 20mm from the front of
the barrel retainer to the back of the mid cap earlier you should distance the back of the JIG 21mm
from the barrel retainer.

Rotate the drill JIG so the holes in the JIG are indexed in between the four 7mm holes in the mid cap,
this is easy to see by looking down through the front of the suppressor tube.

Take a 3.5 mm drill and insert it into one of the holes in the JIG and mark the drill for a drilling depth
of 10mm.

Drill four holes using the JIG taking care not to shift the position of the JIG, remove the metal
shavings frequently then slide the JIG off the suppressor.

Thread the holes using a m4 threading tap, you won’t reach very far into the holes with the tap but
it’s easy to thread the last bit with the m4 screw itself by screwing it in and backing it our repeatedly
as the steel screw is harder than the aluminium in the mid cap.

Screw four m4x6mm screws into the holes in the suppressor tube, cross tightening them a bit at a
time until they are tight.

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Remove the suppressor by screwing it off the barrel. Now remove one screw at a time and apply
some JB weld to the threads and then re-install the screws one by one.

Insert the 16x2.5mm O-ring over the barrel and push it down against the barrel retainer wall.
Remove the printed back cap from the suppressor tube and install the 37x1.5mm O-ring in the
groove on the printed back cap. Wrap some teflon tape over the threads of the printed back cap to
protect them from the heat.
Install the printed cap in the suppressor tube again and tighten it until it’s fully seated. Screw the
suppressor onto the barrel and tighten it until the O-ring over the barrel is squished and the printed
back cap is fully butted up against the wall in the barrel retainer.

Now we need to prepare the baffle spacer, the baffles and the end cap and install them. Cut the
baffle spacer in half, remove the burrs and insert it from the front of the suppressor with the cut side
towards the mid cap.

We want all the baffles and the end cap to have a 10mm hole. Drilling the baffles bigger then this will
lead to inefficient suppression and getting the holes off centred and not concentric will lead to baffle
strikes.

First we need to assemble the baffle drilling JIG. You need two 10.0x15x20mm DIN 179 drill bushings
for the JIG. Start by placing a baffle into the coned side of the JIG and press it in hard until it snaps in
place and then insert one of the bushings from the top of the JIG.

Use a socket or similar which is slightly smaller than the OD of the bushing and use it to push the
bushing down until it touches the baffle. Insert the second shaft collar and push it down until it’s
flush with the top of the JIG.

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Place the baffle into the coned side of the JIG and press it in hard until it snaps in place, make sure it
sits straight in the JIG. Place the JIG on a flat surface with the baffle down. Hold the JIG with your
hand and press it down as hard as you can while drilling the baffle with the 10mm drill. Do this for all
baffles.

Put one wrap of aluminium tape around each baffle without overlapping the tape and cut away the
excess around the rim of the baffle with a sharp razor or box cutter, this will remove the small
amount of play between the baffles and the suppressor tube.

Insert the baffles in the suppressor. You will probably have a gap between the last baffle and the end
cap. You can fill that gap by cutting down another baffle and installing it.

Measure how deep the threads of the end cap sits in the suppressor and make a mark inside the tube
at that depth, then measure the distance from the last baffle’s edge to that mark and cut the same
amount MINUS 0.5mm from the straight walled section of another baffle.

Install the cut down baffle and the end cap. If you cannot fully seat the end cap remove the cut down
baffle and sand it down until the end cap can be fully seated. Now remove the end cap and use the
10 mm drill to drill the endcap, you can hold it from rotating while drilling with adjustable pliers.
There is no drilling JIG for the endcap but it should have a center mark from the factory.

Wrap some teflon tape around the threads then re-install the endcap. The teflon tape tightens up
the threads which improves concentricity of the end cap.

Your integral suppressor is now finished!

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