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"If you know where to look, you can still discover and recognize what it was that
intoxicated John Coast fifty years ago." -Sir David Attenborough
John Coast
t"l"''::
r-I'TI Foreword by
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Sir David Attenborough
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From the London and New York Press
FIRE AND PRECISION.... "delicacy of arm and hand movement ... infi-
nitely plastic use of the body ... the tight swaddling of the girls ... gives them a
tenuous elegance, enhanced by their tender age. Ni Gusti Raka ... dances with the
fire and precision of a ballerina ... she is the very embodiment of all fairy-tale
princesses and as a fierce little bird she is irresistible, putting all western Firebirds
to shame ... (and there is some beautifully dressed up fooling) .... The entertain-
ment offered is far from being only dancing. The 'gamelan orchestra' is fascin-
ating not only to hear but to watch . . . and there is a splendid 'monkey
chorus' from the men .... The costumes are rich and strange as only oriental dress-
es can be. Incredibly, they were woven and made in two villages on the island."
-Alexander Bland, The Observer, London
A BEAUTIFUL SHOW. ... "gorgeous to look at, stunning to listen to, full of
vivacity and completely off the beaten track. Ni Gusti Raka, the leading dancer,
is an utterly lovely wisp of a girl. Her dancing in the gay and delightful
'bumblebee' numb~r called 'Tumulilingan' is bewitching, and in the more
demanding 'Legong' it is truly superb, technically and dramatically:'
-John Martin, New York Times
THEY LIVE THE DANCE.... "A rich cross-section of the wonderfully
varied Balinese dance repertoire. In the intricate choreographies so closely co-
ordinated with music of magic sound and complex rhythm, a sensational theat-
rical art is displayed, like nothing else to be found throughout the East."
-Colin McPhee, New York Times Magazine
BEAUTY PLUS.... "William Saroyan once wrote a play called 'The Beautiful
People.' The same title fully describes the event which took place last evening at
the Fulton Theater where the Dancers of Bali with their Gamelan Orchestra from
the little Indonesian villiage ofPliatan, made their American debut. For there was
beauty everywhere. Beauty of movement and beauty of sound, beauty of color
and beauty of spirit. From the temple doorways, etched against the deep blue sky,
came tiny dancers in golds and crimsons and purples, in costumes of breath-
taking loveliness and in the wonderfully monstrous garbs of demons.''
-Walter Terry, New York Herald Tribune
~)
PERIPLUS
Paperback edition published by Periplus Editions
with the permission of Laura Rosenberg
Publisher's Note
Modern spelling was introduced to Indonesia in 1969 when, for example,
"Dj" became simply "J".Ardjuna is now spelt Arjuna.
"Luce" was the familiar name of Supianti Sujono, the Javanese wife of
John Coast.
Printed in Singapore
DISTRIBUTORS
Asia Paetfic
Berkeley Books Pte Ltd, 61 Tai Seng Avenue #02-12, Singapore 534167
Tel: (65) 6280 1330; Fax: (65) 6280 6290; Email: inquiries~penplus.com.sg
japan
Tuttle Publishing,Yaekari Building, 3F, 5-4-12 Osaki, Shinagawa- ku,
Tokyo 141-0032.Tel: (813) 5437 0171; Fax: (813) 5437 0755
Email: [email protected]
LAURA ROSENBERG
New York City, january 2004
www.johncoast.org
About the Author
The author wishes to thank Mr Colin McPhee for his technical advice
in connection with the analysis of Balinese music made in Chapter 7.
A Short Bibliography
The Island of Bali by Miguel Covarrubias
(ISBN 962 593 060 4)
Dance and Drama in Bali by Walter Spies and Beryl de Zoete
(ISBN 962 593 880 X)
A House in Bali by Colin McPhee
(ISBN 962 593 629 7)
A Tale from Bali by Vicki Baum
(ISBN 962 593 502 9)
Author's Dedication
One day towards the end of February 1954, after the dancers had been
back in Bali a year, Sampih was called to dance with the Pliatan group in
the palace of the Raja of Gianjar in front of President Sukarno.
He failed to appear. Three days later his murdered body was found in
the Ubud River.
Sampih was a very great dancer; and while Luce and I were living in
Bali he was like our brother.
The book, which so fittingly could have been dedicated to him and
the Anak Agung Mandera, I now dedicate in great sorrow to his memory.
Foreword
There was a time when Bali, to Western eyes, represented all that was
remote and exotic. It was the Far East at its most romantic. In the 1930s,
a few wealthy travellers, attracted by rumours of the island's extraordinary
beauty and the wonders of its music and dancing, started to visit it in their
luxury yachts. Occasionally, one or two European painters and musicians
went with them and several became so fascinated by the island's rich yet
alien culture that they settled there. But they were the exceptions. To the
rest of the world, Bali was little more than a name for a distant unreach-
able island paradise.
John Coast, the author of this book, arrived in Southeast Asia as a
member of the British Army during the Second World War. Within days
of his landing at Singapore, the island fell to the Japanese and he was taken
as prisoner to work on the murderous Burma Railway. There he laboured
and suffered alongside others who came from what was then the Dutch
East Indies. Such appalling experiences might well have turned many
against all things Oriental. For John, they did quite the reverse, and when
peace came at last and he was demobilized he returned as part of the
British diplomatic delegation in Thailand. From there, he went to Java as
a private individual to do what he could to help Indonesia in its fight for
independence.
It was then that he visited Bali. He was so overwhelmed by the splen-
dour of the islanders' music and dancing, so unlike the stately traditions
ofJava and beyond in its fire and brilliance, that he dreamed of arranging
a worldwide tour for a group of dancers together with their essential
complement, a full gamelan orchestra.
In this book, he tells how he achieved this unlikely and pioneering
feat. The story involves intrigue, politics, rivalries and even-tragically-
murder. But his pages are also filled with the brilliant clashing sounds of
the Balinese gamelan, the flicker of candlelight on the graceful bodies
of child dancers, the perfume of incense and frangipani, and the vivid
presence of one of the most generous, friendly and talented people on
earth.
When his book was first published in 1953, few of its readers could
have been to the island. Bali still had no airport of any kind, let alone one
that could accept aircraft big enough to bring in visitors hundreds at a
time. The beach at Sanur, today lined by towering luxury hotels, was then
so quiet and lonely that a stranger could spend the night there, watching
turtles come ashore to lay their eggs, looking at the stars, and sleeping on
the sand. I know. I did.
So I too became captivated by all things Balinese. On my return, I
read this book and eventually met its author. Together we persuaded BBC
Television to let us make a series of films that would give some account
of Balinese art, and in particular its music and dancing. So I had the huge
good fortune of working in Bali in partnership with someone whom the
Balinese knew well and held in great affection.
It is indeed splendid that John's book should be in print once more
to tell today's visitors of how things once were on the island. But its read-
ers will have no difficulty in imagining that, for there is a miracle about
Bali. Its traditions are so vigorous, so deeply rooted in the Balinese char-
acter, that they remained astonishingly free from foreign influences for
centuries. As a result-if you know where to look-you can still discov-
er and recognize what it was that intoxicated John Coast fifty years ago.
~
......
~
~
~
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~ ~
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~~~
BAL l
English mtltJs
0 10 15 20 75
Sketch-map of Bali showing the towns and villages mentioned in the text
Bird's-eye view of our house and compound in
Kaliungu Klod, Denpasar
14
1
We Decide to Stay
W
*
e sat in two bamboo chairs, looking toward the beach,
where we could hear the breakers gently pounding the
white sweep ofKuta Bay. Between our grass-thatched hut
and the sea lay only a shallow strip of coconut palms, beneath which the
grey, sandy soil baked in the afternoon sun. The breezes blowing in
steadily off the Indian Ocean made us want to sleep twelve hours a
day. We had only been living in Bali for two weeks, but already we
wanted to stay there indefinitely.
Kuta was a fishing village. Along the beach there stood a series of
long, ragged huts, placed under trees just above the high-water mark.
In these huts were the narrow boats with prows carved like fanciful
masks to scare the monsters of the ocean, with their outriggers leaning
drunkenly on the sand. But in these huts no Balinese lived; for accord-
ing to the beliefs of the people, the low-lying sea is the habitat of
demons, while always from the sea Bali's invading enemies have come.
The sea, therefore, is not to be trusted, but to be placated. It is in the
Great Mountain, whose vast peak dominates the whole of the island,
that the gods of Bali prefer to live. The real village ofKuta, therefore,
lay behind us, slightly inland.
This afternoon had been unusually warm, and we were just thinking
of going to the bathhouse to cool off, for the tide was far out and the
well water, if scooped over ourselves in empty halves of coconut shells,
was cold and refreshing, when our temporarily adopted son, Pegil,
came running up to our porch from the direction of the sea. He was a
small boy of ten, permitted by his family, who were very poor hill
villagers, to live with us and help in our household in return for being
15
sent to school and a promise that we would never take him away from
Bali. He was a handsome child, sturdily built, with a wonderful smile,
and he lived proudly in a new pair of dark blue cotton shorts. He stood
now smiling, nervous, pulling out the joints of his fingers, watching
us. First he looked at me; then at Luce. Perhaps Luce looked less for-
bidding or the more awake, for it was to her that he spoke.
"Excuse, please," he said. "The tide is very far out today. Are you
and the Tuan, perhaps, going fishing on the reef?"
Luce looked at me resignedly from her chair and Pegil turned his
smile on to me, too.
"Let's all go," she said. "You know you enjoy it yourself quite as
much as Pegil does."
"All right, Pegil," I said. "We'll go in a few minutes. As soon as
we've put some shoes on."
"Excuse me, Tuan, I will first tell my friends-that is, if the Tuan
is going to drive the jeep?"
"Yes, we'll take the jeep."
Inside the hut we pulled on canvas shoes so that we could more
safely clamber over the rocks and through the channels. Luce wore
shorts and a brief blouse; I wore shorts and sunglasses. Then we were
ready. As we walked over to the old wartime jeep, Pegilcameforward,
seven or eight of his friends from the village with him. Grinning,
cheerful little brown urchins, they wore mostly rotting and patched
shorts, and in their hands they carried small baskets, heavy hammers,
with barbed, yard-long spikes of iron. At my "Okay!" they all
scrambled aboard, talking excitedly, for this was a big moment for
them; Pegil, however, now kept his face very calm, even slightly
aloof, implying that for him it was all a most usual and boring
occurrence.
There was a grass track leading to the foreshore, but as the jeep
descended the slope on to the beach itself, I had to shift to low gear;
then we lurched forward through the soft sand like a tank, the children
whooping with pleasure, and chattering like magpies when we finally
sped along the firm white sand close to the sea's edge, heading for the
reef of white coral that ran out several hundred yards from Kuta Point.
I left the jeep on firm sand and we jumped down. Now it was the
turn of a boy smaller than Pegil to lead us. This was Baris, eight-year-
16
old expert on the reef, nimble and wise on tides and races. We had
met Baris first during a stroll along the shore at low tide, when he had
shown us how to scoop out exquisite black shells living just under the
wet sand where the water retreated.
Baris led the way. Luce and I moved cumbersomely after the quickly
scattering and light-footed boys. As we walked through pools and
over the low rocks, forward to the main reef's edge, where now tame-
looking waves lapped at and caressed it, we had to guard all the time
against spiky and poisonous sea urchins, amber, black and pale pink,
which lay in holes and under ledges everywhere, so that when we
stepped or lifted a rock to peer under it, we had always to beware that
a groping foot or levering hand did not light upon us.
At first we found only a few clams and some giant, rubbery starfish,
bright blue in colour, but presently we caught up with the children
busily chipping and prodding for cat's-eyes. These stones, we had
learned, were plugs, or stoppers, attached to the bases of certain small
molluscs, which, when frightened, retired into their shells, thus seal-
ing themselves in, leaving the glaring green and black eye on a white
background to frighten off any enemy. The small boys, however,
gathered up the shells complete, for they would eat the fish and try to
sell the stones to any tourists who came down to bathe. Luce was
having one mounted by a Kuta silversmith in a filigree silver ring.
Sometimes, in holes in the rocks, the boys would plunge in their
barbed spikes and one would pull out a small octopus, a greatly prized
delicacy, or from under the ledges fat eels would wriggle through the
shallows to be speared and captured also. In deeper pools shoals of
tiny fish of a kingfisher blue would flash and turn, while at the reef's
farthest point, where the rocks were crumbling soft, huge and glisten-
ing cowries, some brown-black, some fawn-coloured and speckled,
were prised away before the turning tide forced us to withdraw to the
beach. There we would compare catches with the fishermen, who
would try to sell us their too salt crayfish, or huge sea fleas, which
they had trapped on the sand ledges between high and low tides. And
then we would jeep back to the village.
On the evening of this same day, old Wo Ketut (which means
Uncle Fourth-Born) our servant, came to us bursting with excite-
ment.
B 17 D.O. B.
"Tuan," he said, "there is good news. Lotring has come at last.
Tonight the Music Club will be rehearsing in Kuta. The Tuan will
certainly want to be present. Lotring is my old friend. Let me take the
Tuan and the Tuan's wife there after they have eaten."
"This is good news indeed, W o. Do you know what they will be
rehearsing tonight-or is it just a meeting?"
"I do not yet know, Tuan, but later I will find out."
He bustled back to the kitchen, content in his own new-found
importance.
For us this really was most valuable information. Lotring had long
been one of Bali's most famous musicians, and his home was in Kuta;
but so much was he in demand as a teacher that he was being con-
tinually called all over the island, and never yet had we found him in
his own house. So far the only dancing we had seen had been at the
Bali Hotel in Denpasar, where the little girls encased in their cloths
of gold, the clowns and masked monsters who fooled and ranted, had
begun to work their spell on us. But the dancing had not as yet pleased
us as much as the music, that most gentle, hypnotic music of the
Belaluan orchestra, hammered out by a percussion of gongs and gilded
metallophones-xylophone-shaped, but with keys of metal-played
by some five and twenty men. The music fascinated me because I
could not see which players so precisely and perfectly controlled it-
and I was baffled by the way a piece ended always unexpectedly, as if
in mid-phrase, still in mid-air.
After we had eaten that night we went on foot together to the
village. The rehearsal was taking place in a small bale, or open-air
hall, on the earth floor of which the instruments were arranged on
three sides of a square. Surrounding the space were crude bamboo
slatted shelves on which sat a few casual spectators, the one oil lamp
smoked foully, and, as we watched, a fierce argument seemed to be
taking place in the thick near-darkness. The men squatted cross-legged
behind their metallophones, most of them inscrutable, scratching
themselves occasionally, clad only in their workaday sarongs. In the
centre of the square two drummers sat leaning across their drums,
which they held lengthwise across their knees. One of the drummers,
who seemed to be leading the argument, was a well-featured man of
some fifty years. Repeatedly he would shout what sounded like: "Sing!
18
Sing! Sing nyak!" (No! No! I don't want that!) At last, after some
throaty grumbles, the dissidents sulkily eyeing the floor, the rehearsal
jerked into life again.
Close by my side old Wo Ketut's voice informed me: "That is
Lotring who has been speaking, Tuan. The men of the village say
that they are rehearsing for a small festival in three days' time."
We watched Lotring using his drum, his eyes remote, flat palms
and beringed fingers alternately caressing, flicking, coaxing and
thumping the two end skins. Then suddenly, with no warning, yet
all together, they would stop again. Leaning over his drum, Lotring
would reach forward toward one of the metallophones, take the light
wooden hammer from the player's hand, and, from the reverse side of
the keys, beat out the next, unlearned phrase of the melody. Then
straight at it they would fly again. If the metallophones hesitated,
from Lotring's throat an unearthly, whining sound would issue, his
voice thus giving them the lost melody, while his hands continued to
punctuate the phrases with the drum.
Amidst laughter and imprecation the rehearsal went on for two
hours more. Every half hour or so they would rest. A distinctly musky,
fetid atmosphere, purely masculine, clogged the air of the ball. During
a rest, men would stroll out to relieve themselves, squatting by the
edge of the lane. Some of them lit acrid cigarettes flavoured with
carnations, but Lotring would always be politely offered a shallow
wooden tray whose partitions contained leaves of the sireh vine, some
betel nut, lime paste and a coarse black tobacco. Automatically the
teacher would fold himself a chew of betel, wrapping the nut and paste
in the sireh leaf, putting it well back into his mouth, after which he
would rub around his gums with a wad of tobacco, finally leaving the
quid between his lips, grotesquely protruding. Presently, as the saliva
began to circulate, he would begin chewing; a minute later he would
be looking round for a few open inches of floor where he might spit
out his first red betel jet.
When it was all over and we were walking home, W o Ketut,
savouring our pleasure, said casually, "Tomorrow perhaps I will ask
Lotring to come and meet the Tuan at the house."
And in the morning, when we came out on to the porch to sip our
morning coffee, we found Lotring there waiting for us, sitting in one
19
of our chairs, wearing a new khaki shirt and batik headcloth. We
greeted him, offered him coffee, but he refused it; out of politeness he
allowed us to bring him the milk of a young coconut, but he hardly
touched it.
We asked him about the performance in three days' time. Oh, it
was nothing-some Baris dancers were coming over from Sanur,
maybe, and there would be a little music. But it was of no account.
"How is it," I asked him, "that in your own village there are no
dancers, and that this is the first time we've heard music in Kuta?"
"Well, there used to be a club. A Legong club. But the men broke
always into factions and squabbled about money. That happens often.
But in Kuta the people are very difficult. Beh! very difficult," he
repeated. "I have tried several times to hold them together-in vain
always. There is nothing to be done about it."
He smiled at us, very unperturbed, his hands lightly thrumming
the sides of his chair, as ifimpatient to be at his drum again.
"Uncle Lotring, we came to Bali to look for dancers and the finest
of orchestras. Could you not persuade the men to work with you once
more?"
He laughed at us quietly, pointing to his betel-stained, gaping
mouth.
"You see, Tuan, I have no teeth. It is hard for me to eat, and I
cannot chew betel on my gums with pleasure. But even if you
promi~ed me new teeth, I would not be able to make this club work
together. It is too difficult, Tuan: too difficult."
"You know, we could look for false teeth for you at the hospital in
Denpasar, Uncle."
"Still not possible, Tuan," he grinned. Then a moment later, hands
politely clasped, "Titiang pamit," he said, "I go now." And in Bali-
nese fashion, very simply, he was gone.
Kaliungu was to become our home and base for the next two years,
and when we took over there was not just one house, but two. Both
had high, grass-thatched roofs, supported on finely grained pillars of
coconut-palm wood. The floor foundations were made from coral,
smoothed over with a dark grey cement, and raised a couple of feet
above the level of the surrounding garden. Most of the front house
was quite open and acted as a cool living room; but one large comer,
our bedroom, was walled off squarely with bamboo wickerwork walls,
which, on the inside, were lined with a white matting made from finely
woven grasses. At the back of this bedroom was a simple dip-and-pour
Balinese bathroom, built under the house's extended eaves, and next
to it was a lavatory on which we had to squat. Its heart-shaped aper-
ture was hardly the size of a teacup, and there was quite a drop below.
We christened it the "high-level bombing sight" and set about having
it altered as soon as the equivalent of a plumber could be located.
In both houses almost all the fumiture was made from bamboo.
From the front house a passageway ran back past a kitchen, where
our food was cooked over charcoal braziers, leading to the smaller,
second house, which consisted of two small rooms at the back of a good
verandah. Here Hans' servants had slept. The two houses lay in a
compound and garden some thirty yards across and sixty yards long.
In the front house, suspended from the eaves by hooked branches,
there hung luxuriant fems and orchids roughly potted in broken open
coconut husks and these bordered our entire living space. The passage-
way was walled with blue-and-white-flowered creepers. In the garden
were sireh vines and another vine with creamy, red-tipped flowers
called "The Young Maiden chews Sireh," together with flaming red
and yellow cannas, and climbing bougainvilleas. A very old hibiscus
shrub had grown almost into a tree, and shaded our well and launder-
ing wall behind the kitchen; while we ourselves quickly planted some
24
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La, la, la, la—no, never! no, never!
La, la, la!
[Exeunt omnes, following one another in a solemn procession.
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THE DOMINIE.[3]
“IT IS A DISGRACE TO
THE WHOLE PARISH!”
The elder children were busy doing sums; the younger ones were
being attended to by the Dominie himself.
But how strange he was to-day! It sometimes seemed as if he heard
nothing of the lesson the children were droning over,—saw nothing
of the tricks the older ones were up to in the background,—as if, in
fact, he were thinking of something entirely different. He had such
fits, sometimes. How funny it was, now, when he dipped his pencil
into the inkstand, instead of a penholder, and, shortly afterwards,
abstractedly put it into his mouth! What a face he made when he
found it out! The whole school had simply yelled at the joke, and the
Dominie had got very angry, and put the whole lot of them in
detention. Later, however, he almost laughed at the matter himself,
and allowed them all to go home. Such foolish and absurd things he
used to do every now and then; and the reason for this was, as the
burgomaster said, because the Dominie was “an obstructive fellow,”
and “not practical.”
And when the burgomaster said so, every one believed him, for the
burgomaster was considered a very clever man.
But, after all, the Dominie was cleverer still.
For, indeed, there were sometimes things that the Dominie himself
did not know,—of course, for no man can know everything. But, in
those cases, he always said, “I’ll just look it up.” And then he looked
in his books, and kept on looking till he found it; and he always did
find it, because he had such piles of books! For, after all, that was
where things were to be found—in books! For this reason the
burgomaster was not so clever as the schoolmaster; he had scarcely
any books at all. This was one cause of the burgomaster’s dislike. He
was Gerrit Rond, the burgomaster, the first man in the village; and
the Dominie was just the schoolmaster. And, naturally, the former
could not endure being looked on as less clever than the latter. But
he did not utter this opinion aloud; he sometimes needed the
Dominie’s help in “just looking up something,” and swallowed his
dislike as best he could; but people could see it all the same.
Yes, indeed! the Dominie was particularly clever!
Once it befell that Piet Stein’s son came home from the city, where
he had “studied” with a view to becoming assistant-teacher; and on
that occasion he had said, in the presence of his father, “All the
Dominie’s cleverness is worth nothing; he is antiquated, and doesn’t
know French.” Piet Stein, junior, was well acquainted with the
French language; he had just learnt it. But Piet Stein, senior, seized
his promising son by the collar, and dealt him a well-intentioned
thrashing, “to knock these new-fangled notions out of him once for
all.”
For the schoolmaster was a knowledgeable man. He lived with his
books, and—which was less obvious to the eyes of the world—with
his instruments and his medicine-chest. For years past he had been
practising on his own account, and had acquired a certain medical
reputation among the peasants of the neighbourhood as well as
within the village. He had, in truth, treated several cases within the
last few years with great success; but it might be better not to inquire
how many earlier trials had failed. Then came the new ideas—the
laws against unlicensed doctoring were strictly enforced, and he
received warnings from various quarters, of which, however, he took
no notice. He could not understand why he might not try to lessen
people’s sufferings, as well as other men, who usually did not succeed
any better than he. It had become to him a passion, an aim in life, a
vocation.
So he obstinately went his own way, in spite of warnings, till the
doctors, whom he injured in their practice, at last lost patience, and
prosecuted him. He was convicted and fined, and from that time his
medical career was over,—at least so it was universally reported. It
seemed strange, however, that now and then a sick person made a
wonderful recovery, without having been treated by the doctor.
Now, one evening it happened that old Klaas, the shepherd, was
seriously ill, and had asked for the schoolmaster. The Dominie had
said “No,” but he had meant “Yes”; for though no longer allowed to
do any doctoring, he could not keep from it. So he meant to wait till it
was dark, and then slip out unnoticed to Klaas’ cottage.
In Jan o’ the Wood’s orchard three figures were crouching down
behind three low dwarf pear-trees, and each of the three had his
head full of thoughts that were not those of his neighbour. The
burgomaster was chiefly tortured by the idea that on the good or ill
success of the evening’s undertaking depended the preservation of
his official dignity; for, seeing that he had enjoined the strictest
secrecy on the veldwachter, and his promising son and heir, the only
question was which of the two would most speedily spread abroad
the whole story through the village. But, over and above this, the
respected head of the community was trembling like an aspen-leaf,
for before his mental eye there arose a vision of a robber—yes, truly
and literally, a robber,—a man with a long beard, bristling hair, and
bloodshot eyes,—a man who goes about with jemmies and
murderous weapons on his person, and—and—who might kill you if
you came in his way, you see!
The veldwachter was, before all things, eager to behold the heroic
feats of the burgomaster, for he was firmly convinced that the mere
presence of the great man was sufficient to compel the miscreant to
run into the snare. For terror there was now no room in his martial
spirit,—for, after all, he had Hannes with him!
Hannes was a big sturdy chap, who at fifteen might well have been
taken for eighteen,—a fellow with fists like engine-buffers, and a face
which, for shrewd intelligence of expression, was about equal to that
of a sheep. Hannes was burning with impatience to hammer away at
the malefactor; hitherto he had only tried his strength on mere
vagabonds, but now he was to have the opportunity of measuring
himself with a real thief. That would be something to boast of!
Thus the three would-be thief-catchers sat in the greatest
excitement behind three of the smallest dwarf pear-trees that any
one can imagine.
A considerable time elapsed, during which even the strained
senses of the triumvirate could perceive nothing which, in the
remotest degree, resembled even a fraction of a thief. At last Hannes’
patience was exhausted, and with it his capacity for silence. “Dad,”
he began in a whisper, “if he comes, am I to take him by the throat
and choke him, or shall I punch his head till he falls down dead?”
“I don’t know,” replied the veldwachter, in an equally cautious
whisper, at least as low as his love for gutturals and sibilants would
allow, “I’ll just ask his worship.” Thus did Kobus, and repeated the
gruesome question to the burgomaster, thereby sending a shudder
through the latter’s limbs.
“Tell him,” said the heroic man to his heroic subordinate, who was
squatting between his superior and his son, “that he must seize him
by the legs, so as not to come within reach of his hands; the thief is
sure to have daggers and pistols to defend himself with if he is
attacked.” Thus spake the wise man; but the real reason for his
caution was that he felt there might be disagreeable consequences for
himself if Hannes received the thief in too heavy-handed a manner.
The veldwachter passed on the message in a whisper to his son:
“Hold him by the legs, Hannes!”
“All right, dad,” replied Hannes, though he did not understand
why he was to treat the criminal so gently. But the burgomaster had
said so,—in other words, the oracle had spoken, and so——
It was very quiet, in the dark, behind Jan’s pear-tree. The
burgomaster dropped his venerated head, and slept. When Kobus
heard the low sound of snoring beside him, he turned to his son, and
said:
“Hannes, his worship is off; I think I’ll have a nap too; keep a good
look-out, and give me a push if you see anything wrong.”
“All right, dad,” said Hannes, and he sat bolt upright, and opened
his eyes still wider than before. But the duet at his side, the darkness
all round him, and the weariness in his eyelids, made him close them
now and then. He struggled bravely against sleep, but there was no
one to help him. And he was only fifteen, and it was so late and so
dark, and Hannes fell into a doze.
Now and then he was awakened for a moment or so by the uneasy
thought that he was the one who had to watch. On one of these
occasions, he thought he saw a dim figure pass right before him in
this dark, and to hear steps—hurried footsteps. He rubbed his eyes,
and—yes—there was some one carefully opening the gate and leaving
the orchard.
Hastily Hannes awakened his parent, in the gentle manner
prescribed and told him, in a whisper, what he knew. The awful
tidings were then reported to the burgomaster, and a moment later
the trio were on their way to seek the thief, who surely, as the
veldwachter supposed, was just carrying away his booty. Hannes
went first, the burgomaster followed, and Kobus formed the
rearguard. This order had been determined by the burgomaster.
“For,” said he, “as head of the community, I ought to have the most
protection.”
In this way the police force wandered aimlessly about for some
time. Hannes did not know for certain what direction the thief had
taken after leaving the orchard; and, besides, there was scarcely any
light. It really seemed as though the moon were taking upon herself
to play at bo-peep with the most worshipful the burgomaster, for she
chose not to show up at all. Yes, perhaps, indeed—oh! scandalous
thought!—she was making faces at the great man behind her thick
curtain of clouds! Who knows?—there are such queer stories told
about the moon.
The expedition, then, returned to the orchard unsuccessful, and
once more took up its position behind the dwarf pear-trees. That the
miscreant might yet return seemed probable, as Hannes assured
them that he had indeed seen him carrying something under his arm,
but not a large sack or anything of that sort. He could not, therefore,
have taken much with him. And they waited—waited—waited....
Meanwhile the schoolmaster had quietly gone on his way. The
better to escape observation, he did not take the nearest way, along
the main street, but went out into his back garden, opened a little
gate which led into Jan o’ the Wood’s orchard, struck right across the
orchard, and so reached a lane leading round to the other side of the
village. Here he turned into a wood, and, following a small winding
footpath, came at length to a lonely cottage, seemingly forsaken,
hidden away among the tall trees. Here he seemed a habitual visitor.
At least he lifted the latch without first knocking, opened the door,
and found himself in an apartment serving at the same time as
bedroom and kitchen.
A close, heavy air, and an ominous stillness, seemed to oppress
him as he entered. But the Dominie was not easily daunted. He felt
about till he found a lamp standing on the table, and lit it. With the
light, life seemed to come into the dead silence of the room; at least a
low moaning was heard from a corner where there was a bedstead,
and a broken voice asked, “Who’s there?”
“It’s I, Klaas, the schoolmaster,” announced the visitor; and,
bending over the sick man, he went on, “How is it with you?”
“It’s all up, Dominie, it’s all up,” gasped the voice. “Oh, Klaas is no
great loss—not much; oh no!”
There seemed to be reason enough for such an estimate; at least
the man who lay there dying did not give the idea of one whose loss
society would feel very keenly. The flickering lamp-light showed the
bed-place, let into the wall like a ship’s berth, in an indefinite half-
darkness, except the head, on which a dull yellow gleam was cast.
There lay, on an unsightly grey, greasy bolster, a head that at first
sight seemed more animal than human. The thin face was made still
more angular and hollow by the strongly projecting cheek-bones, and
the pointed chin with its bristly beard. The upper-lip, and indeed the
whole mouth, was almost covered with stiff hair; the nose was broad,
flat, and turned up; while a quantity of lank, tangled hair fell over the
projecting forehead and deep-set eyes. But these eyes glittered
fiercely, every now and then, in their dark sockets, and then again
looked anxiously, almost entreatingly, at the schoolmaster.
The Dominie tried to answer him cheerfully. “Come, come, Klaas!
What foolish talk is this? You may not have been a king or a great
man, but you have been of use for all that. Shepherds are wanted just
as much as kings.”
“No, sir,” said Klaas, moving his head restlessly. “Every day so
many finer lights are blown out, and Klaas is only a rushlight. Oh,
Lord, yes!”
The old schoolmaster tried to comfort him, but Klaas still seemed
to have something on his mind.
He had stolen Jan’s pears a fortnight ago, he told the schoolmaster
at last.
The old man remained with him till a late hour, and then started
homewards by the same way as he had come.
“Father, father!”
“What is it, Hannes?”
“I hear the gate creak.”
“So it does.... Your worship, here he comes back again.”
“Really? Yes, I see him.... Kobus, stand firm, my man. Let Hannes
hold him fast by the legs. No, not yet—wait till he passes! Oh, do be
careful! Look out for his weapons!”
“Hannes, be ready!”
“I’m quite ready, dad.”
“Not before I speak, and then by the legs—do you hear?”
“Yes, dad. Hush now!”
—The shuffling of approaching footsteps in the grass of the
orchard ... suddenly a figure disengages itself from the darkness.—
“Now, Hannes, now!”
Hannes creeps forward along the ground, seizes the figure,
according to instructions, firmly by the ankles—a good pull—and the
thief falls forward at full length. Hannes seizes his wrists, and lets
himself fall flat on the top of his prey.
The veldwachter, for greater security, incontinently throws himself
upon his two predecessors; and the burgomaster crowns the human
pyramid, and the successful thief-hunt, by sitting down, with all his
burgomasterly weight and a heavy bump, upon the three others,
triumphantly shouting the while, “I’ve got him,”—which is answered
by, “Oh my ribs, your worship!” from the uppermost stratum, “What
in thunder!” from the midmost, and a smothered groan from the
lowest.
“Hannes, have you got a hold of his hands—tight now?”
“Yes, your worship, but I can’t do anything myself like this.”
“Well, I’ll get up, but keep a good hold of him—do you hear?”
“All right, sir.”
The burgomaster arose. “Kobus, put the handcuffs on him at once.
In heaven’s name make haste about it then.”
The veldwachter bustled up from the ground, and set about
securing the prisoner as closely as possible. While he was thus
occupied, and Hannes was holding the persistently silent criminal,
the burgomaster kept walking round and round his captive in order
to see what sort of a fish he had got in his net. In this he would
probably have been unsuccessful, had not the moon, in a sudden
caprice, shone out brightly once more. When the triumvirate saw the
pale face, paler than ever with the fright and the cold moonlight, and
perceived it to be the face so well known to them, all their
astonishment uttered itself in the simultaneous cry—
“The Dominie!”
The school was empty, and the children had a holiday, for the
Dominie ... was sitting in the vault under the tower.
Under the tower sat the Dominie, amidst pieces of old iron and
other rubbish. Light and air stole in shyly, in small quantities,
through the little, square, grated window, in which a single scrap of
glass, dusty and weather-stained, remained in one corner, to show
there had once been a pane. As the court-house was surrounded by a
paddock, which again was enclosed by a low wall, the sounds from
outside only penetrated indistinctly, as a vague murmur, into this
chamber. Sometimes it was quiet,—deadly still, there, especially of
an evening, and then life came into the place, for the rats and mice
began their games. The Master was an old man, and nervous, and he
could not sleep much. He thought over the whole matter in his
wakeful hours, and it gradually became clear to him that he had been
arrested by mistake.... Klaas had stolen Jan van ’t Hout’s pears, and
he, the Dominie, had been taken for the thief returning for a second
load. But it would not be difficult to prove his innocence. Only it was
lasting a long time; he ought surely to have been tried before now.
Four days had passed without his hearing anything. Even the
veldwachter, who, as a rule, could not be with him two minutes
without wanting to relate some story or other, was now silence itself,
when he brought the Dominie his daily rations. What was the
meaning of this delay?
“SITTING IN THE
VAULT UNDER THE
TOWER.”
“It’s too bad,” said a little old woman; “an old white-haired man
like that. What may not a man come to? Only yesterday he was
teaching my daughter’s children their lessons, and to-day the poor
lambs are running after their master, because he’s been in jail just
like some nasty vagabond. And I can’t believe it of him, do you know
—anything but that. He has always been much too kind to every one.
I’m not the only one here whom he has helped for nothing—nothing
at all—without your having to pay a cent for it.”
“Yes, but, mother,” began a rich farmer,—with a face and attitude
in which the most condescending amiability could not altogether
hide the lowest greed, and a stupid arrogant conceit,—“you must
understand that there are well-founded reasons—I say, well-founded
reasons—for the man to have been taken up—eh? That’s surely self-
evident—eh? No one is put into handcuffs without important
reasons; there must be a ground for such a motive—I say, for such a
motive.” And then the mighty orator looked round him with a “What
do you think of me now?” expression, and enjoyed his victory over
the old woman. But the latter was not to be driven from the field so
easily.
“You go along with your French talk. I know nothing about that,—
and yet I think I know quite as much as you do yourself. But this I
know, that it doesn’t look well for you, of all people, to abuse the
schoolmaster anyway. Even though it were as clear as a post above
the water that the Dominie had stolen, you ought to stand up for
him! Do you understand me—eh?”
The rich farmer understood quite well. When his youngest boy had
been lying ill some months ago, he had been too mean to send for a
doctor, though he could well afford it, and had called the
schoolmaster to his assistance. Then, as at other times, the Dominie
had said “No,” to keep up appearances, as he was not supposed to
practise any more; but he had thought “Yes,” and acted on his
thought. And the rich farmer had paid him nothing. This was why he
now hurriedly turned away from this covert attack, muttering
something about “old creatures getting quite childish,” but abstained
from further contradiction.
But the old woman could not be everywhere at once to take the
Dominie’s part, and the conclusion of most conversations was this:
“Yes, you see, folks don’t call a cow piebald, when there’s not a spot
about her.”
Suddenly, however, all voices were hushed before the reverently-
uttered magic formula, “The Burgomaster!”
The crowd parted to let him pass, and he went up to the council-
chamber, where the faithful Kobus, in his Sunday suit, was awaiting
him. He was already going to meet the burgomaster, in order to tell
him that “they” were all there; but the great man was looking straight
in front of him, as stiff as a poker, and making, in a direct line, for his
official chair, like a guest who, on being ushered in, looks neither to
right nor left, but makes straight for the lady of the house.
This was “the proper form.” Kobus was so impressed by this
ceremonial that he stared with open mouth and eyes, and remained
immovable, like a masculine counterpart of Lot’s wife. The
burgomaster had elegant manners, that he had.
“Are all present?” asked the burgomaster, suddenly.
Kobus awakened with a start from his ecstatic trance. “Yes, your
worship,” he answered, regaining his composure.
“Then the trial may begin,” said the President of the Court. “And
you, Veldwachter, do you caligraph it!”
“I—I don’t altogether understand, your worship.”
“Caligraph, Veldwachter!”
“Oh!—ah!—hm—yes, I don’t understand——.”
“Write it down, Veldwachter. Caligraphy—that is the art of writing,
you know.”
“All right, your worship.” Kobus sat down at a table, took up a pen,
and bent over a sheet of paper. But the paper was destined to remain
unsoiled. For, all of a sudden, the burgomaster looked round him,
and, probably struck by the emptiness of the room, inquired,
“Veldwachter, are all the witnesses present?”
“All the witnesses are present, your worship,” answered Kobus,
indicating, with a majestic wave of the hand, his solitary son Hannes,
who sat so forlorn, that, looking at him and the schoolmaster, it
would have been hard to say which was witness and which
defendant; for the Dominie had his handcuffed hands on his knees
under the table, and you would not have guessed from his calm
features—pale and worn with the fatigues of the last few days—that
he was accused of any crime.
“But,” pursued Kobus, “your worship has just said something that
gives me an idea. Ought there not to be some other witnesses?”
“Other witnesses?”
“Yes, I mean witnesses to witness for him, do you see? I mean to
say, Hannes sits here, for instance, to speak against—I mean against
the Dominie,—but ought there not to be some witnesses to speak for
him as well?”
The burgomaster began to think. This was a difficult question, one
of those ticklish and delicate problems, the solution of which forms
the principal raison d’être of a burgomaster’s career. If only this
miserable trial had never begun! He cast a furtive glance at the
defendant. If only he could consult the Dominie, and ask him to look
up his books about the matter! But away with such humiliating
thoughts! No; better, if it must be, to manifest his ignorance in a
more becoming way: “Veldwachter, is that what they do in town? It
was different in my time.”
“They do it that way now, your worship.”
“Then we had better move with the times, and adapt ourselves to
the new usages. But where are the—the for-witnesses to come from?”
“Oh! there’s a whole crowd outside the door, your worship—
perhaps you might find one among them. And if there’s no one to be
had—well, at any rate, we’ve done our best to find one.”
“Go outside, then, and proclaim a summons, on my behalf.”
Kobus went and did so, wording the “proclamation” as clearly as
he knew how. But a deathly stillness was all the answer he received.
For though many a simple soul was honestly convinced of the
defendant’s innocence, and though here and there a solitary voice
had been raised in his favour,—to go in there, into the council-
chamber,—to stand before the tribunal,—that was more than those
timid folk could undertake.
Suddenly, however, a shrill voice cried, “Well, if no one else will do
it, I will.” And the little old woman who had already taken up the
cudgels for the Dominie, forced her way hastily to the front of the
crowd.
“Look’ee there; Auntie’s going to speak,” cried various voices.
Every one repeated, laughing, “Auntie’s going to speak!” for under
this name the old lady was known to all the village.
Auntie cared neither for laughter nor tears, but went straight
forward, climbed the court-house steps, and then suddenly turned
round, waved her thin old arms, and cried as loud as she could,
“You’re a pack of cowards, the lot of you,—do you hear, you great
loobies?” Then she disappeared inside. And though she was a funny
figure enough as she stood there, no one thought of laughing,—they
all felt the truth of Auntie’s words too deeply.
“YOU’RE A PACK OF
COWARDS.”
I was a boy of twelve or thirteen, and, just like other boys of that
age, full of life, mischief, ideals, and illusions.
A good-for-nothing little scamp out of school, I was, under the
master’s eye, a queer mixture of the genuine mischief-loving boy and
the zealous pupil. If I found no attraction in the dry science of
arithmetic and the rules of grammar, all the more did I feel attracted
by the history of all nations in general, and ours in particular.
Yet not altogether; it was only the warlike Spartans and Romans,
our own crusading knights, and the fierce and enterprising Gueux,—
in short, only those whom I looked upon as heroes who could arrest
my attention.
Frequently it vexed me that my lunch-slice of bread and butter did
not consist of black, coarse bread; sometimes I felt a deep disdain for
my clothes, so different from those in which the Roman legions
marched to victory; all peaceable merchant-vessels were an
abomination to me,—I knew but one ideal—to be a hero.
What I understood by a hero was not quite clear, even to myself,—
only this was certain, that no one could be a hero unless he had won
many great battles over stronger adversaries, or had blown up his
ship in order to save the flag, or ended his glorious life covered with
wounds in the breast (never in the back, of course!). In short, my
idea of a hero was somewhat complicated; but this much was certain,
that a great hero ought to be able to show a large number of wounds
and scars, and that his bravery should be equalled by his generosity.
I wished to be a hero myself, but as I quite understood that I was
too young for the position at present, my great desire was, at least, to
see and know a hero.
I sought everywhere for this superior being, and thought at last
that I had found my ideal in our new “odd man,” who had been a
soldier, and had a large scar on his cheek.
From this one outward and visible token of his bravery, I argued
that he must have more hidden about his person, under his clothes.
These wounds, alas! I could never hope to see, as he did not live in
the house, but came every day to clean boots and run errands.
I was, however, firmly convinced that they existed. The only
drawback to his greatness was the fact that he had both his arms and
no wooden leg. I would much rather it had been otherwise, but
managed to content myself with his many unseen wounds.
I was still seeking an opportunity of asking him how and when he
had become a hero, when I was suddenly bereft of my illusion.
Our kitchenmaid was beforehand with me.
One day, when I had furtively slipped out to the kitchen, in order
to question Frans, I heard Mie, our maid, say—
“I say, Frans, have you been in the wars, that you have such a mark
over your face?”
Then he replied—
“In the wars! I believe you! We’ve nothing more to do with wars in
this country, now! No,—when I was leaving the service, I treated my
chum one night. But he got drunk and outrageous, and chucked me
through a window, so that I cut my face open. No—I didn’t get it in
the wars—and jolly glad of it, too!”
I stood thunderstruck—the tears rose in my eyes.
No wounds on his breast! Even the scar was a delusion and a
snare. I no longer believed in living heroes. They no longer existed.
But I was going to be a hero all the same. And till I was able to re-
introduce the breed, I would content myself with the dead heroes of
the past.
“I HAD FURTIVELY
SLIPPED OUT TO THE
KITCHEN.”