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" SHONENJIUMP MANGA
Story & Art by @

Vite Kubo
AAt) 8 | moved at the end of April.
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(ASNOH
HIlALSO,
NI994)
kindly left the onions out
of the salad. But there
were turnips in their place.
I'm sorry. | can't eat
turnips either.
-Tite Kubo

BLEACH is author Tite Kubo’s second title. Kubo made his

debut with ZomBi— POWDER, a four-volume series for WEEKLY
SHONEN JUMP.To date, BLEACH has been translated into numer-
ous languages and has also inspired an animated TV series
that began airing in Japan in 2004. Beginning its serialization
in 2001, BLEACH is still a mainstay in the pages of WEEKLY
SHONEN JUMP. In 2005, BLEACH was awarded the prestigious
Shogakukan Manga Award in the shonen (boys) category.
 BLEACH
Vol. 13: THE UNDEAD
SHONEN JUMP Manga Edition

STORY AND ART BY

TITE KUBO
English Adaptation/Lance Caselman
Translation/Joe Yamazaki
Touch-Up Art & Lettering/Andy Ristaino
Design/Sean Lee
Editors/Kit Fox, Yuki Takagaki

BLEACH © 2001 by Tite Kubo. All rights reserved. First published in Japan
in 2001 by SHUEISHA Inc., Tokyo. English translation rights arranged by
SHUEISHA Inc.

The rights of the author(s) of the work(s) in this publication to be so

identified have been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act 1988. A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the
British Library.

The stories, characters and incidents mentioned in this

publication are entirely fictional.

No portion of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or

by any means without written permission from the copyright holders.

Printed in the U.S.A.

Published by VIZ Media, LLC

P.O. Box 77010
San Francisco, CA 94107

1098
First printing, June 2006
Eighth printing, June 201 |

i PARENTAL ADVISORY <>

Al |2 BLEACH is rated T for Teen and is recommended
for ages 13 and up. This volume contains
mepIa fantasy violence. PU MEL
www.viz.com rati ngs. viz.com www.shonenjump.com
Every time we set aside our pride
We take a step closer to the beast

Every time we kill an emotion

We take a step away from the beast

Shonen Jump Manga

TARY A
ff
ihMh

After a fateful encounter with Soul Reaper Rukia

Kuchiki, Ichigo Kurosaki himself becomes a Soul
Reaper. Now, Ichigo and his friends have infiltrated the
stronghold of the Soul Reapers to save Rukia. But the
formidable Kenpachi Zaraki blocks Ichigo just steps
away from Rukia’s cell, and while Ichigo is struggling
against Kenpachi’s tremendous spiritual pressure, Chad
faces a fearsome enemy of his own in Shunsui Kyoraku.
Meanwhile, the Soul Reapers are shocked to learn
that Captain Aizen has been murdered!
cA A
ine

ya
BLEAGTIS THE UNDEAD

Contents
108. A Time to Scare y
109. Like a Tiger Trying Not to Crush the Flowers 31
110. The Dark Side of the Universe 5|
I 11. Black & White 7|
| 12. The Undead 2 (Rise & Rage) 89
113. The Undead 3 (Closing Frantica 109
| 14. Everything Relating to the Crumbling World 129
115. Remnant 149
 COULON’T
THEY HAVE
USED
AHELL
BUTTERFLY
TO SENDA
MESSAGE?

HAS BEEN
SIGNED BY
BOTH
CAPTAIN-
GENERAL
YAMAMOTO
AND CAPTAIN
HITSUGAYA
OF I0TH
COMPANY.

JOINT
) SIGNA-
TURE?
AGENT OF THE RITEI-TAl,
THE SECRET REMOTE UNIT,
ell JTH SQUAD:
TOP MESSENGER DIVISION
SECRET?
 LT A gfx
LLL

jo <8 4
. Y* ae ? Uf > te a eg a ff :
>.
:

QUITEA Ff
SPECIMEN.
CAPTAIN
I'M GLAD
KYORAKU! HE
MISSED

THE RITEI- BREATH.

TAI WAS WHAT’S
JUST HERE. WRONG?
 CAPTAIN
AIZEN
IS...

HIS
IT’'SATOP SAKETSU
SECRET IT WAS CHAIN AND
MESSAGE MURDER! HAKUSUI
SIGNED BY SOUL SLEEP
CAPTAIN- WERE
GENERAL REMOVED
YAMAMOTO ANO HIS
AND AND THE HEART
CAPTAIN KILLER'S DESTROYED
A. HITSUGAYA. IDENTITY
BYA
\ ZANPAKU-TO.
 IS SOME-
THING
| CAP- WRONG...
TAIN
KYO-
RAKU?
CAPTAIN
AIZEN!

THAT'S

FORA
YOUNG

NO
NEED TO
SUMMARILY )
KILL HIM.

HAVE THE
RELIEF
COMPANY
SECURE
HIM.
 I'LL TAKE

a resets
CARE

RIGHT ,
THAT’S ALL
FORGIVE AWAY. THE MORE
MY \ REASON
IMPERTI- NM
NENCE.

THINGS
..COMPLI- SEEM TO
CATED. i on BE
GETTING
 108. A Time to Scare

NANAO ISE y1,

a T ite |imo F
LE ee v
 BS
\%N

~
 | CAN
CUT HIM!
XV \ \

‘j
h

\ | MIAH
 a) A

gf
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rome

err Ti -
a]Wr f yti
nyt ]

f t i/

Ps

H I T T I N G
HIM,

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jax
 I’M AFRAIO
OF HIS

= |SHOULD.
~ BE ABLE TO
O CUT HIM!!
UT HIM

CALM DOWN, CALM DOWN!

CALM DOWN... ai CALM DOWN,
7 CALM DOWN,
‘ CALM DOWN... IT'S LIKE
WHAT
ZANGETSU
SAIO!

CAN WIN,|
| CAN WIN,
| CAN WIN,
| CAN WIN!!

NY
AUS
uLOSE?! ~
ISHE =
DEAD?!

NO WAY!!
| DON’T
BELIEVE
IT!
 wy
ci i
NT }
Another Random Scribd Document
with Unrelated Content
A Disputed Score.
 Diagram I.

Ball 2, touching the left side cushion and 4½ in. from left top
pocket. Play a very soft stroke so that ball 1 may be left at 1′; a losing
hazard from the spot is then open. This stroke is best made if the
player stand close to the balls and lean over the table, making his
bridge for the cue bouclée—i.e. the forefinger bent round the cue. If
played in the usual way the stroke could not be reached without the
long rest, and the eye is then so far from the ball that error and
failure are probable. Any ordinary player can show the stroke, which
is quite easy and very useful.
D. Ball 1, 5 in. from cushion 5 and 17 in. below the left middle
pocket.
Ball 2, 6 in. from cushion 5 and 7 in. below the left middle pocket.
This is an example of a hazard to a blind pocket. Ball 1 should be
struck gently, and its position after the stroke will be in the direction
of the right top pocket. It is, in fact, a fine cut, and if played with
sufficient strength ball 1 may probably go into the right top pocket. If
ball 1 be placed 6 in. from cushion 5, the stroke is slightly fuller and
may be played slower; after impact the ball will travel in the direction
D E.
Diagram II. shows positions for doubles, with which it is well to
accustom the eye. Though such strokes are not very much used in
billiards, they are occasionally of great value, and their principle is
based on the equality of the angles of incidence and reflexion. It is
clear that a double may be set up at almost any part of the table, and
it is well that several positions should be selected and played from till
some certainty is obtained; those shown in the diagram are merely
types. In these cases ball 1 is played full or nearly so on 2, and
position for a further score may with attention to strength be
attained. Doubles are used more in pool and pyramids than in
billiards, and will be treated in detail when the two former games are
described.

Diagram II.
 It may be as well to make a few remarks explanatory of the
diagram. A is an example of a double in baulk where the balls are
easily reached. The point A on the cushion where impact with ball 2
should take place is half-way between the baulk-line and the bottom
cushion. A ball played from B to A should, if truly struck in the centre,
fall into the left bottom pocket. Place balls 1 and 2 as shown in the
diagram on the line B A, keeping 2 sufficiently far from the cushion to
avoid a kiss; play full, and 2 should be doubled. Again, let C be the
middle point of cushion 6, and imagine lines joining it with the right
middle and right top pockets. On these lines place the balls. A full
stroke from ball 1 to 2 should double the latter in the one case into
the right top pocket, in the other into the right middle pocket.
Next, D is an instance of a simple double, from which in more ways
than one a losing hazard from spot may be left. Ball 1 is 24 in. from
cushion 6 and 26½ in. above the middle pocket; ball 2 is 5 in. from
the same cushion and 20½ in. above the pocket. A full stroke will
double ball 2 into the right middle pocket, and ball 1 may be left near
the line from the left middle pocket to the spot.
In the case marked E, ball 2 is just beyond the shoulder of the right
middle pocket, ball 1 being so placed nearly in a line from 2 to the left
bottom pocket that a full stroke about No. 1 strength will carry 2 to
the left top pocket. Ball 1 may be so played as to leave a losing hazard
into the left top pocket from a ball on spot.
All these strokes should be played medium strength, say No. 1 or 2;
in practice it will be found that the angle of reflexion varies
somewhat with the strength, and in a less degree with the table.
As great accuracy is of the highest importance in playing winning
hazards, it is evident that, when either ball has a considerable
distance to travel, the stroke should not be played too slowly; for in a
very slow stroke imperfections of ball or table tell more than when
greater strength is used. Also, before leaving the subject, it is
desirable to impress the reader strongly with the importance of the
remarks on pages 145–6 respecting play into a more or less blind
pocket. Attention to them is essential to good spot play and also to
what is called play at the top of the table. Clearing the dangerous
shoulder of the pocket is the secret of success.
We now proceed to losing hazards, which with most amateurs
form the mainstay of the game; partly because being easier than
winning hazards, they are usually taught first, but mainly because
they are possible with a slovenly style and inaccurate striking which
effectually prevent success with winners. In reality, however, they
will repay care and accuracy as much as any other stroke, because,
unless ball 2 be struck in the proper place, it will not travel in the
desired path, and the result of a poor stroke may be success as
regards the hazard, coupled with leaving ball 2 hopelessly safe. When
played with intelligence and with due regard to the position of ball 2
after the stroke, they form most excellent practice. Following the
usual custom, these strokes may be divided into short and long
losers, and each will be separately treated; at present, of course, plain
strokes only being considered. It is convenient to take the half-ball
hazard as the standard or typical stroke; it is the easiest for the
reason given at p. 133, because aim is taken at the edge of ball 2, a
well-defined mark, instead of at an indefinite point on the ball’s
surface. Moreover, on billiard-tables certain positions are recognised
as affording half-ball losers, and these are most valuable to a player
as supplying the means, during play, of testing and correcting his
strokes or his judgment of angles. It often happens from many causes
that a man’s eye or nerve partially fails, which failure destroys
confidence and begets still worse play; he probably before long gets a
stroke from one of the many positions which should be played half-
ball. The mere effort to recognise the situation tends to arrest
demoralisation, whilst the success which follows correct recognition
goes far to restore equanimity and confidence. That is one reason
against wantonly altering the positions of the spots on the table, the
size of the Ｄ and such matters; though, no doubt, if the game can
thereby be certainly improved, the alteration is justified, and in time
players will learn similar positions under the altered circumstances.
Hitherto such changes have been made rather with the view of
cramping the play of one or two men, and so placing others less able
or less diligent on a par with them, than with the object of making an
undeniable improvement in the game. Such modifications under the
pretext of reform are much to be deprecated.
Taking the billiard, pyramid, and centre spots as fixed points on
the table, Diagram III. shows with sufficient accuracy the lines of
half-ball strokes to the top pockets. Let the billiard spot be
considered first. From either top pocket there is a half-ball stroke to
the opposite one; also from either middle pocket there is similarly a
half-ball hazard into the opposite top pocket. Next, from a ball placed
on the pyramid spot there are half-ball hazards from either corner of
the Ｄ into the top pockets; and, lastly, from a ball on the centre spot,
half-ball strokes to either top pocket may be made from positions
about 7½ in. to the right and left of the centre spot of baulk. Precise
accuracy in definition of these strokes is not attempted; tables and
balls vary, whilst no two men strike exactly alike; hence each must
work out for himself the exact position for a half-ball stroke; it will in
every case be reasonably near the lines indicated.
Diagram IV. illustrates several losing hazards, all good for practice.
For the group marked A, place ball 1 on an imaginary line from the
centre of the red spot to the upper edge of the shoulder of the left
middle pocket about half-way between them, where it can be
conveniently reached by the player; it is then in position for a gentle
half-ball stroke to the right top pocket. When correctly played,
impact with ball 2 takes place on the central longitudinal line of the
table, and consequently 2 travels to the top cushion on that line, and
returns on the same path a shorter or greater distance according to
the strength of stroke. A very gentle one will bring ball 2 back to the
spot; a medium stroke will result in leaving it near the pyramid spot,
and it can be brought further down the table if desired; but for
practice at this stage endeavour should be made to leave ball 2
between the red and pyramid spots on the centre line. If this is
effected, ball 2 has been truly struck; should it return to the right of
the line it has been struck too full, and if it rests to the left of the line
too fine. So that here again we have an index which points out error
and shows what is required for its correction. The hazard is so easy
that after a little practice it will seldom be missed, and for that
reason it should be worked at till it becomes what is called a
certainty.
 Diagram III.

Then from A lay off, in the direction of the right middle pocket, a
series of positions marked A′ A″ A‴ A⁗, each about 1¾ in. from the
other, and from each of these play the hazard. The point of impact
should be the same in every case, therefore the point of aim will vary
slightly with the change of position; but the chief variation in the
stroke lies in the strength employed.
For the position A′ the strength is about No. 2, and ball 2 should be
left on the central line L L between the centre spot and the bottom
cushion. For A″ the same stroke a little stronger, ball 2 returning
from the bottom cushion towards the centre spot: and so on. It is
seldom necessary to practise beyond A‴ in dealing with plain strokes.
The strength required for this stroke is considerable approaching No.
4, and ball 2 should travel beyond twice the length of the table. In all
these strokes endeavour should be made to keep ball 2 travelling on
the line L L; this will be found not quite an easy matter, and
sometimes divergence may not be from any fault of striking, for an
imperfection in the ball which might account for an error of half an
inch or less in 6 ft. would produce a perceptible deviation during a
journey of 24 to 30 ft. Nevertheless, the prime source of failure is to
be looked for in a faulty method on the part of the player, who, if he
cannot easily remedy what is wrong, should without hesitation revert
to the practice previously prescribed. After some work at this he will
probably find that ball 1 was not being truly struck, and will amend
the fault. These strokes should then be transferred to the other side
of the table, making the hazards into the left top pocket. They are
very conveniently played with the left hand, and the player who can
use both hands almost indifferently has a great advantage over a
purely one-handed performer. It is entirely, we think, a matter of
resolution and of practice. At any rate, these strokes should be played
from both sides of the table till they can be made without difficulty.

Diagram IV.

Example B exhibits a valuable stroke of common occurrence. Ball 1

is on the line from the left top pocket to the spot. That line should be
taken from a point nearer the top than the side cushion. Ball 2
should be struck so as to drive it as indicated, half a foot or more
above the right middle pocket on to the cushion, whence it rebounds
and comes to rest conveniently over that pocket. A similar stroke
should be played from the right top pocket, and there is as usual a
little license as to the position of ball 1; it may be further from or
nearer to the pocket than is shown in the diagram, and also a little
above or below the line indicated, and still be a plain stroke; when
the divergence is greater, side is required, and the methods of play
will be hereafter explained.
The strokes marked C on this diagram afford admirable practice
for middle pocket losing hazards; for their results record plainly the
errors committed. They have been selected because the point of
impact on ball 2 is in the central line of the table; therefore, as has
been already shown, its path should lie on that line. Another
advantage these strokes possess is that from each position of ball 2
precisely similar hazards may be made into the right and left middle
pocket.
Place ball 2 in the central line of the table, 24 in. from the baulk-
line. A half-ball hazard is open from either the right or left corner of
the Ｄ. Ball 2 should pass up and down the central line, the distance
varying with the strength; for simple hazard practice it should be
brought back to its place before the stroke was made. Next bring ball
2 1½ in. down the central line; place ball 1 10 in. from the centre of
baulk; play as before.
This stroke may be repeated by bringing ball 2 down the central
line 1½ in. each time, till a position 18 in. from the baulk-line is
reached. When nearer than this the stroke is so far changed that the
strength must be reduced, so that ball 2 shall not return from the top
cushion, but shall be cut towards one of the top pockets, and as the
position of ball 2 approaches the baulk-line it will be found desirable
to place ball 1 further and further back in the baulk within the limits
of the Ｄ. Ball 1 is placed 1½ in. towards the centre for each stroke up
to the fifth when ball 2 is 18 in. from baulk. Whilst accuracy should
be aimed at, its perfect attainment is impossible; in playing these
strokes occasionally a very good one may be made, and ball 2 may
keep very close to the central line. Oftener, however, there will be
divergence, and hence it is well to recognise limits within which the
stroke, though not very good, may yet suffice to leave ball 2 in play.
In the diagram the lines P M and Q N, drawn from the corners of the Ｄ
parallel to the sides of the table, form such boundaries. If ball 2 be
left anywhere in the space so enclosed, and as far down the table as
the spot, there is almost certainly a plain hazard to be made off it
from baulk into either top or middle pockets.
Other and easier middle pocket hazards may be indefinitely
multiplied, and should be practised till the person playing acquires
confidence, not merely that he can make the stroke, but that he can
vary the strength at will from such delicacy as scarcely to move ball 2
to one which will bring it in and out of baulk. A few examples are
given in Diagram V.
A. Ball 2, 16½ in. from cushion 3, 12½ in. below right middle
pocket; ball 1 on right corner of the Ｄ . Play half-ball about No. 2
strength, leaving ball 2 placed for a hazard in the left middle pocket.
Ball 2 can be brought back nearly over the centre spot, and the
danger of the stroke is that, if played too fine, ball 2 will lie near
cushion 6 and be practically out of play.
B. Ball 2, 15½ in. from cushion 3, 6 in. below right middle pocket;
ball 1 on baulk centre spot. Play half-ball No. 2 strength, leaving ball
2 with hazard into right middle pocket.
C. Ball 2, 21 in. from cushion 5, 10 in. below left middle pocket;
ball 1 on baulk centre spot. Play half-ball No. 2 strength, bringing
ball 2 back over or near the centre spot of the table. With slight
variation of strength and aim ball 2 can be brought back into almost
any desired position on the table.
D. Ball 2, 9 in. from cushion 5, 23½ in. below left middle pocket;
ball 1, 5½ in. to the right of the centre of baulk, or on position 5 of
Example C, Diagram IV. Play a half-ball slow No. 1. Ball 2 will travel
to the side cushion on a line at right angles to its face, or, in other
words, parallel to the baulk-line, and will return on the same line to a
distance varying with the strength. A medium No. 1 strength will
bring the ball back from 24 to 30 in. from the side cushion. There is
great latitude in placing ball 1 for this stroke, which can be made as
far as 8½ in. to the right of baulk centre, the difference in play being
merely in strength. The further ball 1 is placed from 2 the greater is
the strength required, and as a consequence the further does ball 2
return from the side cushion. This stroke is of the class called
‘jennies.’ Each stroke here recommended for practice can be played
from either side of the table; and this should always be done in order
that the eye may become equally familiar with the angles into either
side pocket.
The next two examples (Diagram VI.) are of an importance which
the beginner may not at once realise, but which is abundantly clear
to a professional or to an advanced amateur. The hazards are in
themselves so easy that a very poor player can have no difficulty in
making them; but mark the difference between the right and wrong
method of play. In the first example the paths of ball 2 after impact
are drawn, both when rightly and when wrongly struck; and an
examination of them will show that if the proper method is followed,
error in strength has much less effect in leaving the ball out of play,
and if the stroke is wrongly played the margin for such error is
comparatively small. The principle here illustrated applies to many
positions, and consequently the strokes deserve close study.

Diagram V.
 Example A.—Place ball 1, 40 in. from the top cushion, 7 in. from
cushion 6; ball 2, 16 in. from the top cushion, 11 in. from cushion 6;
play a free stroke rather finer than half-ball; it is a bad stroke indeed
which leaves ball 2 out of play. Another good example is shown at B;
ball 1, 24 in. from cushion 4, 4½ in. from cushion 3; ball 2, 13 in.
from cushion 4, 9 in. from cushion 3. Play a free stroke finer than
half-ball on 2, which will follow a course somewhat resembling that
indicated.
Diagram VII. may be thus set up:—Ball 2, 5 in. from left middle
pocket, ½ in. above a line joining the centres of the two middle
pockets; place ball 1 7 in. to the right of the centre spot in baulk; play
half-ball on ball 2 a free stroke. Ball 2 must be very badly struck if it
is left out of play; it should strike the left side and top cushions and
return to position. If played improperly, it returns from the top
cushion only, and unless the strength is very exact is probably lost to
play. Many accidents may happen; it may be holed in the left top
pocket, or, still worse, catch in it and run safe under the top cushion;
it may return close to cushion 6 and come to rest either above or
below the middle pocket; in each case it is left in a more or less
undesirable position. If played too full, ball 2 will probably be left
safe near cushion 2; hence there are at least two types of wrong paths
which might be shown, but they have been omitted to avoid
complicating the diagram.
Having fairly mastered short losing hazards, the next step is to
study similar strokes into the top pockets from baulk. They are called
long losing hazards, and form an excellent test of a performer’s
capacity at the game of billiards, in which they fill an important part.
They require greater accuracy than the short hazards, because the
balls have to travel over a greater distance, so that correctness in
placing ball 1 for a plain half-ball stroke on ball 2 is of the greatest
consequence. Smoothness and truth in the delivery of the cue must
not be lost sight of, and a short reversion to the practice
recommended in Chapters III. and IV. for the attainment of these
objects will prove to be of much benefit.
 Diagram VI.

The typical long losing hazard is made from ball 2 on the centre
spot, ball 1 being about 7½ in. from the centre of the baulk.
Differences in the elasticity of the balls will make a slight alteration
in the best position for ball 1; where it is considerable, 8 in. may not
be too far from baulk-spot, and where it is less 7 in. will suffice; the
position also varies with the strength of stroke. This hazard is rightly
considered a difficult one, and it cannot be mastered without much
application; it is indeed now of more value than of old, because in a
break when ball 1 is left touching another ball, the game is continued
by placing the adversary’s ball on the centre spot, the red on spot,
and playing from baulk.
The stroke can be made with considerable difference of strength,
which varies of course with the position desired for ball 2. Ball 1
should be struck in the centre (not below) about No. 2 strength; this
will bring ball 2 back over the middle pocket, the stroke being played
half-ball. If it be made ten or twelve times in succession on a clean
table, the path travelled by 1 after impact will be fairly visible, and it
is an instructive subject of study. First there is a straight line to
within the length of a radius of the point of impact, next there is a
somewhat violent curve, the result of the forward course suddenly
modified by impact, the rebound due to elasticity and the frictional
action between ball and cloth, and this in turn is merged into a
second straight line. The action described is not peculiar to this
stroke, but is visible in many others, and exists more or less in all,
but this one forms a favourable opportunity for observation. The
path travelled by ball 1 is roughly indicated in fig. 3, and the practical
lesson to be learned therefrom is that in playing cannons the curve
must never be overlooked or forgotten when the third ball lies within
the sphere of its influence. Reference has just been made to the
impact of two balls and the rebound which follows, a subject which
was referred to in the last chapter; it is of interest, and at this
moment appropriate, to consider the matter a little further.

Diagram VII.
 Fig. 3

In fig. 3 ball 1 played on 2 impinges at T; 2 travels from T as shown

by the arrow. B C shows the line travelled by 1 after impact as it is
exhibited in the diagrams; but the true path is more nearly B D.
Hence it is clear that a cannon on ball 3 would just be missed, the
position of 1 being indicated in the act of passing 3. The tendency of
the lines B D and B C to approach each other and ultimately to
coincide is apparent. It is also clear that the magnitude of the curve B
D depends on the strength of stroke as well as on the elasticity of the
balls. If played very hard, it will be greater; if very soft, it will almost
disappear, the line of travel approximating to B C, in which case it is
evident the cannon would be made.
The balls may for our purpose be assumed to be of equal density
and perfectly elastic; that is, they are equally hard, equally heavy,
and when they receive the shock of impact they recover their figure
or shape with a force equal to that which caused the momentary
compression. What happens more or less in every stroke in which
one ball is made to strike another is that at the moment of collision
the round surfaces are flattened by the shock, and impact is not
confined to what is accurately called a point, but is extended to this
flattened surface, which varies in size according to the strength of the
stroke, the hardness of the balls, and the part of ball 2 struck. In
using a very perfect set of ivory balls 2³⁄₃₂ in. diameter, in a stroke
rather fuller than half-ball with strength from No. 3 to 4, this
temporary flattening was found to extend to about the size of the
head of a small tin-tack, say ⅒ in. in diameter; nearly but not quite
as large as the billiard balls shown in the diagrams. The rebound is
due to the reaction whereby the balls recover their normal shape; in
the case of ball 2, which was at rest before impact, the effect is to
make it travel on a line from the point of impact through its centre;
the effect on ball 1, which was not only moving forward but also
revolving, being to check its velocity, some of which is imparted to
ball 2, to rebound, and to assume a new path, the first part of which
is curved as a result of the blending of the various forces to which it is
subjected. In this explanation no pretence to a mathematical solution
is made; it is simply the result of watching the behaviour of the balls
and endeavouring to account for it by an exercise of common-sense.
Most persons who have played much must have noticed occasional
stains of red on the white ball; these were the results of impact, and if
carefully examined would be found to be small circular spots;
similarly all persons are familiar with the fact that the red ball
gradually loses its colour, which it parts with in the way here noticed.
Now to return to the long losing hazards; the usual mistake is to
place ball 1 for a stroke finer than half-ball, the result being that it
strikes the side cushion on the dangerous shoulder; therefore, when
in doubt, allow for this and place the ball for a full rather than for a
fine stroke. The hazard from ball 2 on the central point of the table
should be constantly practised, first into one top pocket and next into
the other, till it can be made with considerable facility and with
varied strength. Then let ball 2 be placed on the pyramid spot and
ball 1 on or near the corner of the Ｄ; a half-ball stroke will make the
losing hazard into either top pocket. Care should be taken not to hit
ball 1 above the centre, and the strength should be about a soft No. 2.
Ball 2, after striking the top and side cushions, should come to rest so
that a middle pocket hazard may be left.
Between these two hazards a number of others may be
interpolated, the most satisfactory plan being to set ball 2 at intervals
of 6 in. from the centre spot up the central line towards the pyramid
spot as shown in Diagram VIII. By this means six separate hazards
are provided for practice, or four are inserted between the two
already described. Taking these four 6 in. in succession above the
centre spot; for the first, ball 1 should be placed about 7 in. from
baulk centre; for the second about 5 in.; for the third about 2½ in.;
and for the fourth on the centre spot of the baulk. As before
explained, these positions for ball 1 are but approximate; they
require modification proportioned to the elasticity of the balls, the
personality of the player, and the strength used. For example, from
the position when ball 2 is on the centre spot and for the next two
positions, in playing with bonzoline balls it would be prudent to
place ball 1 from ½ to ¼ in. further from centre of the Ｄ than the
positions indicated.
 Diagram VIII.

When the eye has become acquainted with the half-ball angle, ball
2 should be set up anywhere within the lines P M, Q N (Diagram IX.),
between the centre and billiard spots, and practice continued. Unless
for some special purpose, endeavour should be made to leave ball 2
within the space enclosed by these lines.
On Diagram X. two hazards, when ball 2 is further up the table
than the pyramid spot, are shown. They are types of two classes,
either soft or strong strokes—forcing hazards, as they are called. A is
of the latter class; that is, though the hazard can be played quite
gently by the use of side, yet as a plain stroke from the left corner of
the Ｄ the strength required would be such as to make it probable
that ball 2 would be left in baulk after the stroke. To avoid this, place
ball 1 so that the hazard may be played with strength sufficient to
bring ball 2 in and out of baulk. Place ball 2 about 16 in. from the top
cushion, and 26 in. from cushion 2; ball 1 should be played from
baulk 8 in. to the left of the centre, a free No. 2 or No. 3 strength. Ball
2 will travel somewhat as shown by the dotted line; if struck fuller it
will go further and keep better within the lines P M, Q N.

Diagram IX.

B is an example of a gentle stroke, and of a type which frequently

occurs in the course of a game. Ball 2, 4 in. from the left side cushion
and 4 in. from the top cushion. Place ball 1 on the baulk-line on the
left corner of the Ｄ. Play on to the left top cushion so as to rebound
on 2 about half-ball. As in most other strokes, there is considerable
latitude both as regards strength and the fulness or fineness with
which ball 2 may be struck. A few trials will show where it is
desirable to place ball 1 if a very gentle stroke is required, and where
it should be put if a stronger one is wanted. That the latitude both as
to the position of ball 2 and to the point of aim is great is clear from
the results of a number of trials, ball 1 being played at a point on the
left side cushion about 18 in. below the top cushion; the path taken
by ball 2 varied generally between the two shown on the diagram;
when it was struck full or nearly so, it impinged on the top cushion at
R, and travelled towards the pyramid spot, and sometimes beyond it;
when struck fine it was cut towards M, and of course did not travel so
far. It is useful to be able to play this stroke when ball 2 is at some
distance from the pocket until, in fact, the direct losing hazard
becomes possible, and therefore it should be practised till the eye can
select with tolerable accuracy the point of the cushion at which ball 1
should be aimed. This method of playing by first striking a cushion
or bricole is too much neglected in the English game, which suffers
thereby; when played it is often considered a fancy stroke, whereas
numerous plain strokes, specially cannons, are advantageously made
by its judicious use. Seeing that play from a cushion is sometimes
imperative, as, for example, when player’s ball is in hand and a
certainty left in baulk, bricole practice from a variety of positions will
well repay the labour bestowed.
What has been mentioned about the elasticity of balls and the
consequent rebound after impact has a special importance in
treating of cannons. This class of strokes has a tendency in the recent
development of the game of billiards to supersede in a measure
losing hazards which formerly, without doubt, were the mainstay of
our players. The inferiority of losing to winning hazards in respect to
influencing the game was conclusively shown when the spot stroke
was played, but that stroke was rarely formidable save in
professional hands; the amateur, as might be expected, clinging to
the easier losing hazard. When the spot stroke was barred, a
substitute had to be found, and in a great measure this has been
supplied by the cannon, chiefly, no doubt, in runs or series of strokes
called nurseries (of which more will be said hereafter), but also by
strokes which have the result of leaving the three balls close together,
gathering them, as the Americans say. To deal fully with these
involves the use of side and of other refinements of play with which
as yet the student is not supposed to be familiar; at present attention
is confined to plain strokes, which include those made direct from
ball to ball and those made after impact with one or more cushions,
but all played without side.