Journal of Engineering, Management

and Information Technology

Vol. 03, No. 02 (2025) 75-86, doi: doi:10.61552/JEMIT.2025.02.002 - http://jemit.aspur.rs

ANALYSIS OF SEWING DEFECTS THROUGH AN

INTEGRATED APPROACH OF 5S AND PDCA CYCLE
Birhane Desta Atsegeba 1 Received 19.01.2024.
Moti Melkamu Revised 11.03.2024.
Negash Lemma Accepted 10.04.2024.
Alula Yemane
Edossa Dugassa
Negasa Feyissa

ABSTRACT
Keywords:
5S, PDCA, Sewing, SQC Tools. Due to a large number of defects, which results in high rework and scrap rates
in the sewing production line, around 3784 rework rates have been recorded
in the last 3 three months, the objective of this research is Analysis of Sewing
Defects and Suggesting Improvement mechanism through 5S & PDCA.
To assess the quality-related problems of the company, primary and secondary
data were collected using interviews, personal observations, and review of
companies’ daily production records, to analyze the collected data, the
mathematical tools and techniques employed in statistical quality control are
used. Excel spreadsheet, QM for Windows software, Pareto chart, cause and
effect diagram, and control chart are used. After finding the major defects, a
brainstorming tool was used to identify the probable causes and then potential
root causes were identified by online inspections and root cause analysis. This
method is very effective in the minimization of defects. The result indicates that
the major problem of the company is stain, skip stitch and seam broken are the
major problem. If the company implements in minimization of the suggested
problem of defects and gives the same corrective action for the suggested
problem, productivity will be increased and high customer satisfaction will be
created. The company needs to analyze the daily recording defects data and
interpret it to identify the root causes of the problem. Most of the time the
company uses two main types of SQC Tools need to use another tool. Need
Implementation of SQC tools in the company.
© 2025 Journal of Engineering, Management and Information Technology

1. INTRODUCTION & Pang 2002). So must know all types of Garments

defects if we are involved with the apparel industry. It is
In this study we have found that it is very essential to the responsibility of the garments manufacturers to
know about different types of sewing defects. In maintain a required Garments quality standard for each
garments industry these defects are dependent upon the and every product they are offering or delivering to the
classification of defects and an inspector’s ability to buyers. (Ahmed, Islam & Ali 2019)
make decisions. If there is no idea of garments defects The study is conducted in one of the firm of ADAMA
identification then it will be a tough job, but if it is known INDUSTRIAL PARK that is called ANTEX TEXTILE
properly then it is an easy task to identify defects (Kumar PLC. In this garment manufacturing, it is usual few

1
Corresponding author: Birhane Desta Atsegeba 75
Email: [email protected]
 Analysis of Sewing Defects Through an Integrated Approach of 5S and PDCA Cycle

rejected garments after shipment. Reason, most of the Debora 2020). This method applies to all processes to
manufacturers believe that garments are soft goods and control the production quality. In order for sustaining the
non-repairable defect may occur due to low quality, raw gains controlling the process is crucial and within this
materials or faulty process or employee casual behaviors there are various tools and techniques used for analyzing
(Islam, Khan & Khan 2013). Reworks in this garments the defects (Flynn, Schroeder & Sakakibara 1995).
industry is a common works that hampers the smooth 1.1. Problem Statement
production rate and focus poor quality products having Due to these large number of defects, which results in
an impact on overall factory economy. However, factory high rework and scrap rates especially in sewing
must have check points to control over this issue (Morel, production lines usually did not produce qualified
et al. 2007). There is no ready-made solution that can garments and their productivity gone to decrease.
reduce rejection percentage overnight. Each order is However, this amount of rework rate 3784 is there the
unique. But this project works suggest how to handle this last 3 months from the section’s recorded data. This in
issue and bring down rejection rate to minimum. turn paves the way for the problem to remain inherent and
The stated problem assessed and improvement make difficulty in solving them. Therefore, this work
mechanism suggested through a structured tool in the incorporates the process of finding the leading defect
form of Combined with the Plan Do Check and Act with their particular root cause and in turn solving them
(PDCA) cycle, 5S for Managers brings to completion a accordingly. By considering all the mentioned above
methodology which can promote continual management problems of large number of defects exposed to high
improvement (Randhawa & Ahuja 2017). The Plan Do rework rate, low output production, longer lead time in
Check and Act (PDCA) cycle, also known as the Deming the sewing lines which shows that there are quality
Cycle, coined after W Edwards Deming, one of the problems on production lines.
acclaimed quality gurus, is a model for kicking in According to report of 12 weeks we plot the graphically
continuous improvement in the work process and PDCA representing the number of defects occurred on products
also as Plan-Do-Check-Action cycle (PDCA) to easily as shown below
define improvement for the defects (Isniah, Purba &

Figure 1. Company defect report

1.2. General Objective factors of the apparel manufacturing industry because it

The general objective of this project is Analysis of creates a negative effect on actual productivity. In
Sewing Defects and Suggesting Improvement garments industry these defects are dependent upon the
mechanism through 5S & PDCA. classification of defects and an inspector’s ability to
make decisions (Srinivasan et al. 1992). If there is no idea
of garments defects identification then it will be a tough
2. LITERATURE REVIEW job, but if it is known properly then it is an easy task to
identify defects. So must know all types of Garments
2.1 Defects in garment industry defects if we are involved with the apparel industry. It is
the responsibility of the garments manufacturers to
Defects are all those non-conformances that are not maintain a required Garments quality standard for each
acceptable by end customer. The non-conformances may and every product they are offering or delivering to the
be improper shape of garment, broken button or other buyers (Huq, Chowdhury & Klassen 2016). After reading
trims, holes in fabric, skip stitch, broken seam etc. Now this project we have found that the idea about all types of
a days Garments defect is one of the most important garments defects like all section have specific defect

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Vol. 03, No. 02 (2025) 75‐86, doi: 10.61552/JEMIT.2025.02.002

which effect on whole garments quality like fabric 2.3. The Seven Quality Control Tools
defects, cutting defects, Spreading defects, sewing A large number of studies have determined major quality
defects, washing defects and finishing defect. improvement tools According to (White et al. 2009) their
study discusses the quality and productivity improvement
2.2 Improving quality in sewing department in a manufacturing enterprise through practical study.
Improving product quality is generally not difficult, but (Agus & Shukri Hajinoor 2012). The Quality Control
requires deliberate and ongoing attention, and it requires Tools such as check list, Pareto analysis and cause-effect
the commitment of every individual within the diagram were used. The frequencies of sewing defects in
manufacturing company, from the person who cleans the the both workshop A&B production lines of sewing
floors to the most senior manager (Yashini 2020). department are determined by check list. The major
Specific steps that can enhance quality include. sewing defects and the cumulative percentages of the
Inline inspection: In the assembly line generally check three critical defects such as, seam broken, stain and skip
pints are kept for the critical operations. In these stitch were examined by using the Pareto analysis. The
checkpoints, 100% checking is done for partially stitched reasons of the defects are analyzed with the cause-effect
garments and defect-free pieces are forwarded to the next diagram for finding out the root causes of these three
process. This type of checking is used major sewing defects. According to (Bhadiyadara,
Roaming inspection: In this case, checkers roam around Dhanani & Patel 2019)) provide an easy introduction of
the line and randomly check pieces at each operation. 7 QC tools and to improve the quality level of
Traffic light inspection system: Some garment manufacturing processes by applying it. An application
manufacturers use this inspection system. In this system, of methodology in an industry which provides a
each operator is given a card for measuring their quality framework to identify the major defects in sewing
performance. The quality checker goes to the operator department and find the root causes in sewing production
and does a random check for few pieces and according to lines, to minimize the defects, improve and sustain
the inspection result, the checker marked red or green on producing of high quality of garments with acceptable
card following rating criteria. quality level. There are Seven Basic Tools of Quality
End of line inspection or table checking: A checker which can be used to analyze and subsequently intervene
checks a completely stitched garment at the end of the to eliminate the problems from the production system.
line. 100% checking is done here, Audit of the checked Despite a lofty title, such as Statistical Quality Control or
pieces: some manufacturers follow this audit procedure Statistical Process Control (SQC/SPC), understanding
but it is a very essential checkpoint to assure that only and using does not require advanced knowledge of
100% of the inspected garment is sent to finishing from statistics. Rather, the seven basic tools of quality and
the sewing department. And all defective pieces are formalized body of techniques involve tabulating,
repaired before sending it to the finishing section. Full depicting, and describing data sets. Once the system is
inspection of work in process and finished garments to visible, the describing and identifying appropriate actions
include adherence to size specifications and stitching to improve the processes and systems are generally self-
related defects such as needle cutting, open seam, broken evident.
seam, jump stitch, variable gathering etc. Recording
defects by garment production lot, source (fabric, cutting, 2.4. C-Chart
or assembly), type, and operator Analysis of defect data The c chart plots the number of non-conformities that
to identify sources of quality problems. Implementing occur in a constant area of opportunity or inspection unit.
even a few of these steps will result in improved quality, The constant means that the area of opportunity and the
but each additional suggestion put into practice will yield inspection unit are equal. Examples of a constant
significant improvements in product quality. Generally, inspection unit are fixed length, area, and quantity. Fixed
quality is always the key to determining the standard of a length could section of road, a roll of paper, etc. Fixed
product. And to maintain such standards there are area could be the hood of a car, a defined portion of a
universal tools that are being used throughout the circuit board, etc. Fixed quantity could be a work week,
industries. These are known as the seven basic tools of three computers, etc.
quality. These are a fixed set of graphical techniques that In most applications, the center line, or mean, of the c
are used to identify all the issues related to quality and chart is based on the average number of non-conformities
assist in solving those issues. The following are all the per inspection unit. This can be determined by:
seven tools of quality control with examples. These 7 𝐍𝐮𝐦𝐛𝐞𝐫 𝐃𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐜𝐭𝐬
tools can be implemented in garment manufacturing to 𝐂𝐋
𝐍𝐮𝐦𝐛𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐟 𝐒𝐚𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐞
improve the process and product quality. Improving Where, CL is the mean of observed number of non-
product quality is generally not difficult, but requires conformities found in inspection unit i.
deliberate and ongoing attention, and it requires the Therefore, the control limits for the c chart are
commitment of every individual within the determined from
manufacturing company, from the person who cleans the Centerline= CL 𝑼𝑪𝑳 𝑪𝑳 𝟑
floors to the most senior manager. (Chandna & Chandra 𝑼𝑪𝑳 𝑪𝑳 𝟑√𝑪𝑳
2009). As with the p and np charts, if the calculation of the lower

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 Analysis of Sewing Defects Through an Integrated Approach of 5S and PDCA Cycle

control limit is less than zero, then the lower control limit basic tools of quality. These are a fixed set of graphical
is set to zero. techniques that are used to identify all the issues related
to quality and assist in solving those issues.
2.5 PDCA Cycle
The PDCA cycle, also known as Deming cycle or 3.1. Research Methodology frame work
Shewhart cycle (Strotmann, et al., 2017), is a lean Methodology means the procedures to obtain the result.
manufacturing methodology that was developed in 1930, For this study, we have conducted the following
when there was no more exclusive products and a more procedures to Analysis the defects. Steps involved in the
quality management focusing on competitiveness raised study.
in the global market (Silva, Medeiros & Vieira 2017) Step 1: Factory Selection: After gathering information,
According to several authors, the creator of the original we have selected a factory, which is situated in Adama
PDCA cycle was an American statistician named Walter Industrial park.
A. Shewart (Silva, Medeiros & Vieira 2017). However, Step 2: Conducting a Case Study:
William Edward Deming was who, in the 1950s, Step 3: Finally, we conduct our research work in a
developed this method, which, today, is one of the most particular garment factory named “Antes Textile plc.”
worldwide known and applied. In its beginnings, the Step 4: Identification of Problems
PDCA cycle was used as a tool for the quality control of Identifying the problem is the major concern for this
products (Silva, Medeiros & Vieira 2017, Sangpikul study. From our observation, we have seen repetitive
2017). However, rapidly, it was highlighted as a method defects occur in the sewing section. Therefore, we tried
that allowed developing improvements in process at to do our research work on this section, which is our
organizational level (Silva, Medeiros & Vieira 2017). major concern.
Currently, the PDCA cycle is characterized by its Step 5: Data Collection: The related data was collected
continuous improvement approach (De Queiroz through primary and secondary method.
Albuquerque 2015) and it is recognized as a logic Step 6: Tools selection: In this step the tools that can
program that allows improving the activities (Sangpikul analysis a collected data have been selected.
2017) Step 7: Analysis and Suggestions
Several authors state that the PDCA cycle is much more In this step, Pareto Analysis is performed which is
than a simple lean manufacturing tool. Instead, they required to identify major concerning areas. After that,
mention that the PDCA cycle is a philosophy of Cause-Effect Diagrams have been constructed for top
continuous processes improvement introduced in the finishing defect types. Then we have provided some
organizational culture of companies that is focused in the respective suggestions to minimize the frequency of
continuous learning and the knowledge creation (Jones, those defects through quality improvement mechanism of
Parast & Adams 2010) The following rows describe the 5S and PDCA..
four stages of the PDCA cycle (Realyvásquez-Vargas et
al. 2018).

3. METHODOLOGY

Direct observations were used for identifying the causes

for the critical defects in different department of such as:
Sewing department. Cutting department, Printing
department, Embroidery department, finishing
department Formal interview with worker for the
brainstorming session for specifying the root causes of
each defect in some sewing lines
The collected data were analyzed using Microsoft excel
for forming Pareto diagram and EDRAW software to
draw Cause and effect diagram and different charts.
Why-why Population size 30 participant's-25 answered
because they were related persons with the work. The
Sampling sizes 240 swim wear were checked for the
location of the defects. This study identified that is very
essential to apply quality improvement technique for
troubleshooting issues within production processes in the
organizations. Doubtlessly, all of the aforementioned
quality tools should be considered and used by
management for identifying and solving quality problems
during producing the products and services. In order to
apply appropriately these quality tools for solving quality
problems and quality improvement and use the seven Figure 1. Research Methodology frame work

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Vol. 03, No. 02 (2025) 75‐86, doi: 10.61552/JEMIT.2025.02.002

Figure 3. The type of production process and quality inspection area in the company
4. DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS workshop A and B of production lines for our project.
This data is obtained by QC man by 100% inspection in
To know the most common source of defects, the the end line QC and simple recorded data on Check sheet
frequency of defect occurs in sewing section of we have which is arranged weekly. We also collected the total
collected various defects data from company report three garments checked in that time to know the current status
months from November 2020 to January 2021 in both of sewing defects.

Table 1. All types of defect data collected in sewing department

FREQUENCY OF DEFECTS IN BOTH SEWING WORKSHOP (A&B)
Period of occuр. Month 1 Month 2 Month 3
S/N Types of Week1 Week2 Week3 Week4 Week1 Week2 Week3 Week4 Week1 Week2 Week3 Week4
defects
1 Mismatch 5 12 32 3 11 7 0 17 9 4 7 6
2 Skip 65 30 95 54 76 16 114 70 55 35 95 69
Stitch
3 Un Even 20 0 26 5 0 30 8 0 1 7 6 4
4 Thread 14 32 20 28 13 35 24 18 30 15 38 21
Cut
5 Open 11 31 21 13 22 19 30 44 4 27 9 26
Seam
6 Stain 110 120 135 70 180 65 185 121 134 109 141 130
7 Seam 15 79 47 33 45 20 74 100 27 20 35 59
Broken
8 Puckering 4 7 5 4 3 0 15 20 6 7 0 10
9 Print 10 9 0 12 6 0 5 2 8 0 2 4
Defects
10 Slip Out 2 2 4 2 4 9 1 0 0 2 0 2
11 Oil Mark 0 0 4 0 0 6 0 1 1 0 2 0
12 Poor Tack 0 4 0 1 0 0 0 3 1 0 0 1

Defects in both workshops A and B of according to the Table 2. Three month total number of defects data in both
objective of our project recorded data in three months. A&B sewing workshop.
The collected data were critically discussed and analyzed S/N Defect type No. of defects
using QC tools like Pareto chart to identify the major 1 Stain 1500
defects that occurs frequently, cause & effect diagram to 2 skip stitch 774
identify the causes and sub-causes. Also to identify for 3 seam broken 554
which reasons the major defects occur i.e. man, machine, 4 Thread cut 288
material and method and also finally we analysis the stain 5 Open seam 257
defect by c-chart to know if it is in statistical control or 6 Mismatch 113
out of control as shown below on (table 2, 3, 4) 7 Un even 107
8 Puckering 81
sequentially.
9 Print defects 58
10 slip out 28
11 oil mark 14
12 poor tack 10
Total 3784

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 Analysis of Sewing Defects Through an Integrated Approach of 5S and PDCA Cycle

Analysis defects collected in both workshops Three lines. After analysis through table below we make the
Months Defect Chart for Both A&B Workshop Sewing Pareto chart for both sewing workshop as shown below.

Table 3. Defect type

Cumulative Cumulative
Over all percentage
S/N Defect type No. of defects total percentage
1 Stain 1500 1500 0.39640592 39.6%
2 skip stitch 774 2274 0.204545455 60.1%
3 seam broken 554 2828 0.14640592 74.7%
4 Thread cut 288 3116 0.076109937 82.3%
5 Open seam 257 3373 0.067917548 89.1%
6 Mismatch 113 3486 0.029862579 92.1%
7 Un even 107 3593 0.028276956 95.0%
8 Puckering 81 3674 0.02140592 97.1%
9 Print defects 58 3732 0.015327696 98.6%
10 slip out 28 3760 0.007399577 99.4%
11 oil mark 14 3774 0.003699789 99.7%
12 poor tack 10 3784 0.002642706 100.0%
Total 3784

Figure 4. Three Months Defect Pareto Chart for A&B sewing workshop.

Based on the Pareto Chart the stain, skip stich and seam causes were identified by root cause analysis of the three
broken are the major problem of the company. The next major sewing workshop defects
figure show that cause and effect diagram of the potential

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Journal of Engineering, Management and Information Technology
Vol. 03, No. 02 (2025) 75‐86, doi: 10.61552/JEMIT.2025.02.002

A Cause and effect diagram for skip stitch,

B Cause and effect diagram for stain and

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 Analysis of Sewing Defects Through an Integrated Approach of 5S and PDCA Cycle

C Cause and effect diagram of seam broken respectively

Figure 5
A Cause and effect diagram for skip stitch,
B Cause and effect diagram for stain and
C Cause and effect diagram of seam broken respectively

The above figures shows the cause and effect diagram of Table 4. Data collected on stain defect.
the potential causes were identified by root cause analysis
of the three major sewing workshop defects from Pareto Weeks in Three Months Number of non-
Analysis types such skipped stitch, seam broken and stain conformities
have been identified. By our own observation and data 1 110
provided by supervisors from some production lines 2 120
through questionnaires the causes for each specific defect 3 135
types have been identified. Then these causes are ordered 4 70
in a hierarchy according to the frequency of the feedback 5 180
provided by QC supervisors. 6 65
7 185
C-Chart 8 121
After we have specified the major defects in both sewing 9 134
workshop by Pareto chart, we have analysis the three
10 109
month non-conformities by currently producing garment
11 141
workshop (A&B) sewing lines. For this, we are using the
number of weekly non-conformities of products cause of 12 130
stain defect type as sample among twelve types sewing Total 1500
defects to develop three sigma control limits using the
data table below. In most applications, the center line, or mean, of the c
chart is based on the average number of number defects
per number of sample. This can be determined by:
Table 5. Non- conformities
WEEKS Non- conformities CL UCL LCL
Week1 110 125 232.9166 17.08337
week2 120 125 232.9166 17.08337
week3 135 125 232.9166 17.08337
week4 70 125 232.9166 17.08337
week5 180 125 232.9166 17.08337
week6 65 125 232.9166 17.08337

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week7 185 125 232.9166 17.08337

week8 121 125 232.9166 17.08337
week9 134 125 232.9166 17.08337
week10 109 125 232.9166 17.08337
week11 141 125 232.9166 17.08337
week12 130 125 232.9166 17.08337
TOTAL 1500

From the table analysis we plot c-chart for stain and number of injuries. This is management's responsibility.
found the three sigma control limit as shown below However, the people closest to the job will usually have
Figure 6. great ideas about what needs to be done to improve the
process. They usually do not have the authority to make
the required changes. Attempting to decrease the number
of non-conformities by encouraging the workforce to be
more careful will not work. The process must be
changed. Examine the reasons why injuries occur.
Prioritize the defects, Pareto diagram can be used for this.
Look for ways or improvement mechanism to prevent
defects from occurring in the first place.

Table 6. Application of 5S (Table shows the application

of 5S).
Figure 6. C-chart for stain
Category Item
Remove what is not needed and
Sort
5. CONCLUSION keep what is needed.
Waste materials on the floor, corner
Results from the Analysis of workshop (A&B) by Pareto area.
chart. Fabric kept on the floor in wrong
I. STAIN is the most frequent defect with as much ways.
as 39.6% of the total defects of both sewing Low skilled worker.
workshop lines,
II. SKIP STITCH is the second most frequent Which worker violates “clean”
defect with 20.4% of the total. conduct?
III. among other three major defects contribution of Arrange essential items in order for
Set In Order
SEAM BROKEN is14.6%. easy access.
IV. These three major defects are the “vital few” Garments are not arranged.
where 74.7% of total defects occur. Operators are not maintaining work
Results from the Analysis of c-chart flow.
The analysis data do not exhibit lack of statistical control; Shine Keep things clean and tidy.
therefore, the analysis control limits given here would be
adopted for monitoring of future operations once again, Machines are not properly cleaned.
note that, although the process is in control, the average Floors, walls and stairs are not
number of defects per sample is high. Action should be properly cleaned.
taken to improve the supply chain system. Operator hands are not cleaned
A process is said to be “IN CONTROL” If the following properly.
are true:
I. There are no sample points outside the control Application of PDCA
limits. The theory of the PDCA cycle process was promoted by
II. Most points are near the process average ISO 9001:2000, which systematically identifies and
without too many close to the control limits. manages the processes that combine the quality systems
III. There is approximately equal number of sample and the interactions between the processes. This process
points above and below the center line. is explained as Plan-Do-Check-Action cycle (PDCA).
IV. The points appear to be randomly distributed This method applies to all processes to control the
around the center line. production quality. For implementing PDCA cycle,
So, the analyzed data cannot meet some of the above initially, it is required finding the opportunity. The PDCA
mentioned rules, in case there are problems in the process will be applied to reduce and eliminate waste.
that should have to improve. Since the process is in
control, the system must be changed to decrease the

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 Analysis of Sewing Defects Through an Integrated Approach of 5S and PDCA Cycle

Table 3. Cause identification using PDCA and WH questions

Answers of the 5 WH
5 WH Questions:
Questions:
Q (1): What is needed to be done?
PLAN A (1): Perfect stitching is needed.
Q (2): How much is needed to be done?
A (2): Goal is to reach zero defects.
Q (3): Where it is needed to be done?
A (3): In every stitch on seam line.
Q (4): Who should do it?
A (4): The Operator should do it.
Q (5): When it is needed to be done?
A (5): It is needed to be done during Sewing.
Process implementation according to PLAN
Install, adjust and use the machine properly.
DO
Using a good needle, quality-sewing thread and supported equipment’s.
Recruit expert operator & Spend proper time for each operation.
Inspection of the process Planned monitoring and measure the process and the products. Check if the
defects are reduced or not?
CHECK If the defects are not occurring or reducing then continue the action of the process successfully.
If defects are occurring, then go back to the PLAN stage
and develop some more ideas for solving and reducing defects and go through the cycle again.
Take action on the accurate process for continually improving process performance.
ACTION
If any defects are found, then start the PLAN stage for solving it.

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𝐁𝐢𝐫𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐞 𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐚 𝐀𝐭𝐬𝐞𝐠𝐞𝐛𝐚 Moti Melkamu Negash Lemma

Department of Industrial Department of Industrial Department of Industrial
Engineering, Engineering, Institute of Engineering, Institute of
Institute of Technology, Ambo Technology, Ambo University, Technology, Ambo University,
University, Ambo, Ethiopia Ambo, Ethiopia Ambo, Ethiopia
[email protected] [email protected] [email protected]
ORCID: 0000-0003-0663-455X ORCID: 0000-0002-9968-1293
Alula Yemane Edossa Dugassa Negasa Feyissa
Department of Industrial Department of Industrial Department of Industrial
Engineering, Engineering, Institute Engineering, Institute of
Institute of Technology, Ambo of Technology, Ambo Technology, Ambo University,
University, Ambo, Ethiopia University, Ambo, Ethiopia Ambo, Ethiopia
[email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

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