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different content
be sewed on loose over the side of the neck. The armhole is in all
respects the same, and the neck is changed from the top of arm
upward.
Dia. IIa shows a full waist which is shown by the ¼ gore in the
underarm gore at the waist, and in the larger width in the front of
waist. The roll is shorter than on Dia. II. It buttons three buttons but
may easily be made longer. The heighth of back above lines 9 and
13¹⁄₁₆ is only 14¾, being ¼ shorter over the blade, because most all
such forms are more or less erect forms. In place of a lap of 1 in. in
front the waist seam has a gore of 1 in. behind, and the run of that
seam may be made to suit fancy or style. In cutting, the top of
sidepiece should be run out into the armhole until it is long enough
for the back from the nicks upward, as shown on Dia. IIB.
DIA. IIA.
DIA. IIB.
I also add another diagram, IIB, which illustrates the erect and
slender form—hollow back—full breast—square shoulders—forms
which are mostly hard to fit. It is on the same square as Dia. II and
IIa, but the difference is shown between the back and the side piece.
The height of back is 14¾ and the front and back is even at the neck
for the square shoulder.
Now, it will be seen how closely Dia. II, IIa and IIB are connected,
and yet how far they are from fitting the same form. With the help of
these three diagrams it seems to me any cutter should have easy
sailing in fitting his customers. There is the tall, slim person to be
fitted by Dia. II and IIB, and the short form and the full waist by Dia.
IIa, and any of the other abnormal conditions here shown by the
three diagrams, may be taken from one of them and placed on the
other. Often, the abnormal conditions may be just contrary to the
illustration.
DIA. IIB.
DIA. VIII B.
This is produced here as a fine seamer sack. It can be used as a
three seamer by taking a trifle more out between the back and side.
For a short roll allow 1 inch in front of point 9 only, and reduce the
gore under the lapel to about ¼ inch. The back is hollowed out ⅜ at
the waist, and the center at the bottom is not thrown outside of the
base.
In all other respects it is the offspring of Dia. VIII, and may be a
trifle better. In practical cutting it will be found that Dia. VIII is more
toward the erect form, because of its back being thrown outside of
the base at the seat.
Dia. VIII B, serves another purpose and this is the position of the
one back on the square of 20½, in which position the back may be
made smaller or wider without injuring the balance of the lengths
above 13½. At the neck the shoulder laps ⅜ for the normal form.
But it illustrates another point. On Dia. III there will be seen an
opening in the under arm seam running up in the arm hole, and
which opening is balanced for the three-seam sack by reducing that
amount between the back and side seam. But the fifth seam on Dia.
VIIIB, balances that part and the back and the side are cut on one
line, from line 11¼ up. It gives a real good shape, and the whole
diagram may be accepted as good, but the measure must be taken
close. For the last year I have closely watched the effects of longer
or shorter backs, and I must here repeat that 15 for a frock and 14
for a vest, and 13½ for a sack are good averages. Further: That a
more erect form may easily have ¼ less, and a more forward,
leaning form ¼ more, and a form like the third form in “Models” may
have ½ to ¾ more length.
But the arm holes must remain the same, and whatever the back
is made longer, must be reduced again in the length at the back
armhole. On a frock coat this can easily be done by reducing said
length between the back and side piece, because of the curved
seam; but on a sack, with its straight side seam, such reduction
would not take up length, but width, and such extra length may be
taken out of the shoulder seam, providing the back notch for the
sleeve is thrown that much further down.
Again, if the back is to be shortened the contrary alteration must
be observed, but ¼ to ⅜ less back, may be the extreme amount for
an erect form, while a stooping form may require ¾ for the extreme.
Stretching the center of the back in length about 4 inches sidewise
and at the point of the blade, will have the same effect, providing the
coat maker will do it, or is instructed to do it.
A hot iron in the hands of a skillful tailor is a mighty factor toward
making a garment what it ought to be.
DIA. VIII. B.
DIA. XXIV.
Is also submitted as an after thought. I doubt if any pants can be
made which fit better than this did on the person it was made for. It is
a broad fall with the waist band cut on. The diagram itself shows the
measure of the man it was made for. The space between the top of
the “fall” and the top of the “fall piece” should never be less than 1½
inches and may be made 2 inches. The “fall” should be cut wide for
small waisted men, and narrow for large waists, and each cutter
must be able to judge for himself how wide each should be, and
again, where the pockets are to be made and where the button holes
should be made, in order that pockets and buttons do not interfere
with each other.
DIA. XXIV.
DIA. XXV.
Represents a boy’s knee pants of 29 seat measure, and it will prove
to be good. I have made the back and front evenly wide at the
bottom, but there is no law against making the fore part ½ smaller on
each side, and the back that much wider. Add the waist band for
suspenders. But if it is cut for a smaller size and worn on a waist, the
10 numbers are long enough for the waist.
DIA. XXV.
TIGHT PANTS.
In a few years pants will again be worn smaller at the knee, and
Dia. XIX must be reduced at the knee and at the thigh. It is hard to
tell what the bottoms will be then, but for all that the center of foot
and heel is here for a guide. Time will show if pants will then be
made with large spring bottoms or whether they will be made again
as they were a few years ago, hardly large enough for the leg to
pass through. But I will say this. Dia. XIX will fit at the seat and
upward for any style. At the fork it may be reduced one seam on the
forepart only, and at the side of thigh it may be reduced one seam on
each back and on each front, for a close fit.
At the side of the knee the angle of 10 deg. may be hollowed out
⅝ to ¾ on each back and on each front, or so much as the inward
curve of side of the knee will warrant. At the inside of the knee allow
¼ to ⅜ on the double to the angle of 10 deg., all of which will
produce a knee of about 18 inches made up, and that will be pretty
close for a seat of 38. Again, if size 38 is reproduced for a size 35,
the knee will be about 18½ inches made up, and if from this is taken
away ½ inch on each forepart and on each back at the side of the
knee to represent the hollow of the leg there, and which is not shown
in the present style, the knee will make up 17½ inches which again is
a fair width for a narrow leg for size 35.
Another good way to produce a close fitting knee is this: From the
center line of the angle of 10 deg. measure both ways and give on
the double inseam ¾ inches more than on the double outside, and
this rule will hold good on all forms, because the center of the angle
of 10 degrees is the center for the pants leg, but the inside of the leg
is straight while the outside is hollowed out about ¾ inches, and that
hollow must be imitated in order to make a close fit of the pants.
DIA. XXVI.
But in order to show the correct idea of a close fitting pants, I have
added Dia. XXVI to the supplement. It is for a form which will go with
Dia. II. Seat size 35, waist made up 33, knee and bottom 17 in.,
length of legs 32 in. It may be called old style now, but it will be in
style at the close of the Nineteenth century, or certainly at the dawn
of the Twentieth century.
For spring bottoms allow on each side of the back, starting about 5
in. above the bottom, and take away from the bottom of the forepart
an equal amount on each side, or so much until the forepart is
reduced to less than 7 in. Dia. XXVI is marked “7 in. above bottom”
for the reason that the width of the pants, about 7 in. above the
bottom, must be the same, no matter if the legs are 30 or 35 in. long.
The seams are notched from a sweep having its pivot at point 80,
which of course is cut off on this diagram. Sweeping each side
separately from the bottom of the pants and on each line of the angle
of 10 deg. will result in the same thing.
The diagrams in the whole book represent the following seat sizes:
29, 35, 38, 39, 40, 46; and it seems to me that any new beginner
should be able to control the different parts in the intervening sizes.
As to coats, there will be no trouble to cut them with the scale and
according to instructions. But for pants, the scale can only be relied
on for the crotch or fork; all other points, such as waist, hip, knee and
bottom, must be cut according to the measure. Hence the pants
diagrams are given in different sizes. The fork as given by the scale
is large enough with 4 on double cloth for the dress side, but may be
made with 4¼.
I will again warn a cutter against giving more fork for extra
looseness, nor to allow behind on top of back for extra waist
proportion, but to allow all extra cloth at the side, unless it is for a
large waist, when it is to be cut like Dia. XX or XXIV. The top line of
the back slope of 15 deg. is large enough for all forms, and besides it
is large enough to buckle up ½ on each side of the back seam, and
which may be cut away there, or may be cut away in the gore in the
middle of the back when an extra close waist is to be made. The
back slope must remain permanent, and all changes made sidewise
or forward.
I will here add two very important points in altering pants: Pants
which must be cut down because they are too large in size can
always be made better if they are opened in front and cut smaller
there and down to the knee. It is true, it may take one hour longer to
do it than to make the alteration behind, but if a pants is worth
altering, it is worth altering right.
DIA. XXVI.
About six months ago I thought I would try a few pants with the
fork points cut ½ in. higher, leaving all other points the same, but
they turned out to be first-class failures. They were too short at the
bottom, and fitted only when the legs were spread apart several feet,
and in which position they were long enough, but when the person
sat down they crawled up to the top of his shoes. From this I drew
the following conclusion: Stretching the inseams will throw the legs
sidewise, and will have the same effect as cutting the crotch higher,
and whenever pants work that way, the fork points should be cut
down about ½ inch, but without disturbing the point in front of line 8
any more than can be helped, but the fork width must be re-
established. This may make the bottom short, and requires the legs
to be let out below, but it will establish a better fit. I will here again
point out the fact, that the inseam stretches more easily than the
outside, and cutters must provide for such defects, from whatever
cause they may originate.
I cannot specify amounts, but can only point out the way of
alteration, either after the pants are made or before they are cut, and
will only add: Cutting the fork ½ inch down will cause the leg to be
thrown 1½ inch more toward the center of the leg, and ½ inch of
alteration may be considered the extreme alteration for any pants cut
according to this work. If a pattern is cut for pants with plenty
notches at the seams, a cutter can soon find out whether the seams
have been stretched, and how much.
It pays to cut all garments over patterns.
DIA. IV A.
I also add a double-breasted vest. Knowing what trouble I have
had myself in getting the front of such a vest to fit, I came to the
conclusion that this work is not complete without such a diagram,
and Dia. IV A is presented. It has the neck and the shoulders on the
same principle points as Dia. IV, and it only remains for me to say a
few words about several points. At the bottom of the armhole the
back is placed at point 11, and is ¼ of a number longer than in Dia.
IV, but that ¼ extra length of back should be given to a double-
breasted vest because the long and open front can settle better to its
place. On account of the large curve in front, the neck band is about
½ inch higher behind, thus giving less spring, and for this reason the
side of the neck should be pretty well stretched. The diagram itself
furnishes no spring outside of the angle of 135 deg., but ¼ may be
given and the back sewed on smooth.
The gore under the collar should be cut for all such vests, but that
gore should hardly be more than the two seams. If the seam is
drawn together a cut of ⅜ is plenty, providing the neck is not
stretched again by sewing the collar on. The bottom of front is
represented with a good sized “lap over,” and if less is desired take
¼ inch off at the front edge and set the buttons ¼ inch forward. The
buttons are 2½ numbers backward of the straight front line. A
double-breasted vest, to button up to the neck, must have a large
gore under the collar as shown in Dia. IV A, for two straight pieces
will never fit the chest of a man when they are to be lapped over
each other from three to four inches. For the whole bottom of the
forepart sweeps from 4* and the lap over will fit. This sweep must
extend through the whole front angle of 15 deg. and may be swept
clear back to the side seam, as shown in Dia. IV A, but may be sunk
down ½ inch at the side seam, starting at the plumb base line.
Notch the shoulder from a sweep from the side of the back or at a
point 4½ numbers from O on the top square line. Dia. IV A is shown
with a large open front and well curved out, but may be cut straighter
or higher, or even lower to suit fancy or style. A customer may put up
with a coat that shows the corners on each side of the bottom of the
front, but he will not wear a double-breasted vest with one side
longer than the other, and it is astonishing how many such vests are
found, especially amongst the ready made clothing. That defect is
not caused by cheap ready made work, but it is caused by the
designer of the patterns over which such vests are cut, and for which
clothing manufacturers usually pay a liberal price.
Writing about ready made clothing brings me to another point.
Coats cut over Dia. II, VIII B and X, will give a better average fit and
a nicer shoulder and an easier armhole, than the great majority of
ready made clothing can boast of, and the same is true of the pants
and vests.
DIA. IV A.
DIA. VII A.
I also give Dia. VII A, of which Dia. VII is the parent pattern. This
Dia. VII A requires no particular description, except that the back of
Dia. VII is swung from point 10½ at the armhole shoulder seam, and
the ordinary spring in the shoulder seam is added. In the position of
Dia. VII A the cutter may easily throw the shoulder seam more
forward at the armhole if he so desires it. The neck band must be a
straight piece, as wide as button holes can be worked in, and the
neck band must be put on loose at the side of the neck. The width in
front, and the depth of the neck in front must be regulated according
to the coat. The depth of the front of neck is placed at 3, and is as
high as any cape may stand, but it is easy to cut it ½ lower. A cape
may be cut without neck band by allowing say ⅝ inches on top of top
and side of back, and by allowing a ⅝ short spring in the shoulder
seam, and giving a good stretch besides.
Dia. VII a.
The last illustration I present is the “Collar as it Must be Pressed,”
the full description of which is found in the article on “Collars.”
AS THE COLLAR SHOULD BE PRESSED
Kurze Wiederholung einiger
Hauptpunkte.
Die Einteilung der Maßstäbe ist folgende:
Das halbe Brustmaß, oder das halbe Sitzmaß zu welchem 2½ Zoll
gerechnet sind, für alle Größen, werden eingeteilt in 20 gleiche Teile,
so daß das gewöhnliche Zollmaß der Maßstab ist, für die 35 Größe,
Brust oder Sitz. 17½ Zoll ist die Hälfte von 35 und 2½ Zoll zu 17½
Zoll gerechnet macht 20 Zoll.
Die 2½ Zoll, welche zu jedem halben Brust, oder Sitzmaße
gerechnet sind, machen die kleineren Größen groß genug, und die
Größern klein genug, für alle Größen.
Das Maß wird über dasjenige Kleidungstück genommen über
welches es getragen werden soll. Bei Hosen muß natürlich das Maß
über die Hose selbst genommen werden, aber deßhalb muß man
auch das Maß ganz straff anziehen, wie beim Messen eines
Ofenrohrs.
Das Maß für die Hose muß über den größten Teil des Sitzes
genommen werden, einerlei ob die Hüften oder der Unterleib größer
oder kleiner sind, als der Sitz selbst.
Für Hosen ist der so eingeteilte Maßstab nur vollkommen
hinreichend für den Sitz, oder den Schritt, und die Seiten naht,
gegenüber des Sitzes. Alle andern Weiten von der Taillie bis zum
Fuße, müßen nach dem Maße geschnitten werden. Um es aber
Anfängern leichter zu machen, sind alle Zeichnungen in diesem
Werke von verschiedenen Größen gegeben, weil die Größen von 25
und 50 ein ganz anderes Verhältniß am Knie verlangen als die
Größe von 35.
Das Maß für Röcke und Westen muß auch eng genommen
werden, obgleich nicht so eng, als für Hosen. Auch muß das
Brustmaß den größten Teil des Schulterblattes einschließen. Für die
Weste ist das ganze Brustmaß gewönlich 1 Zoll kleiner als für den
Rock, und für den Ueberrock gebrauche man jeder Zeit 2 Zoll mehr
als für den Unterrock.
Um die verschiedenen Winkel, welche in den 135 deg. enthalten
sind, recht zu bekommen, nehme man einfach dia. I. oder irgend ein
anderes, welches die Einteilung der 135 deg. zeugt, und mache die
Lienien so lang, wie sie erforderlich sind, um ein Muster in voller
Größe zu zeichnen.
Für Röcke und Westen kann man sich für alle Größen verlassen,
ausgenommen für die Längen, und für die Weiten, des Unterleibes.
Obgleich die Weiten der Schultern besser mit diesen Maßstaben
ermittelt werden können, als mit irgend einem andern Maße, oder
mit irgend einer andern Berechnung, so will ich dennoch hier
erwähnen, daß alle Größen von 23 bis 44 mit dem Verhältniße deß
Maßstabes erzielt werden können; aber wenn man über 44
Brustweite hinauf kommt, so sollte man an dem Armloche und
derjenigen Linie, welche mit 60 deg. bezeichnet ist, 1-16 für jede
höhere Nummer abrechen, so daß ein 50 Brustmaß nicht über 8¾
an dieser Stelle erhält, und der Rücken sollte nicht über 6⅞ Weite
haben am punkte 8, oder an dem Centrum des Aermels. Auch sollte
die Tiefe des Armlochs in demselben Verhältniße erhöht werden.
Während das vordere Armloch an der Lienie von 45 deg. bleibt, wird
dann der vordere Aermelzwick vielleicht ¼ bis ⅜ höher gestellt.
Wenn dieses beobachtet wird, so wird die Schulter niemals zu breit
werden für die größeren Nummern.
Die Schultern wachsen niemals in ihrer Breite zu dem Verhältniß
der größern Brustweiten.
Man wird niemals verfehlen den Aermel in das Armloch zu passen
wenn man dia. II. VII. und X. beobachtet. Dia. VII. zeichnet ein
kleines Armloch welches sehr gestreckt werden muß, während dia.
II. ein größeres Armloch giebt, aber mit demselben Aermel und
daher nicht so viel gestreckt werden braucht.
Das Armloch und der Aermel von dia. X. sind vollkommen groß
genug für einen Ueberzieher. Für das Einnähen des Aermels,
beobachte man genau die Einzwickungen des Armlochs und des
Aermels an dia. II.
Dia. III. VII. VIII. VIII.-a X. X.a sind die ersteren Platten welche ich
habe machen lassen, während II. II.-a. II.-B. VIII.-B. die letzten
Producte meiner Arbeit sind, und die Armlöcher und die
Einzwickungen sind eine Verbesserung. Ich schäme mich nicht zu
sagen, das ich heute mehr weiß, als vor einem Jahre, und ich hoffe,
daß ich heute über ein Jahr mehr weiß als heute.
In Bezug auf Hosen, sei hier gesagt, daß die Einteilungen der
verschiedenen Zeichnungen vollkommen genügen, um dem
Anfänger sogleich einen bessern Ueberblick über die ganze Hose zu
geben, als er es irgend wo finden kann. Nur dieses will ich hier noch
bemerken: Der Schritt für die “Bekleidende Seite” ist groß genug
mit 4 Nummern, für die hälfte der Hose, doch mögen 4¼ gebraucht
werden, und was man an der vorderhose abbricht, erlaubt man an
der Hinterhose.
Die sogenannte Abstechung der Hinterhose ist niemals zu
verändern, sondern sollte genau nach den Zeichnungen gemacht
werden. Jedenfalls sollte niemals etwas hinten erlaubt werden für
größere Unterleibsweite, sondern alles was der Bund mehr verlangt,
muß an der Seite und vorn erlaubt werden. Wird der obere Teil der
Hinterhose, am hintern Ende weiter geschnitten, so wird das
Resultat dasselbe sein als wenn man den Schritt kleiner schneidet.
Es wäre dasselbe als wenn man Tuch am vordern Armloche
erlaubte, denn je mehr man erlaubt, desto kleiner wird das Loch. Für
eine enge Taillie kann man noch ¾ Zoll am obern Teile der
Hinterhose abnehmen, aber für eine größere Weite ist das Gegenteil
nicht anzuwenden.
Das halbe Hosenbein besteht einfach aus einen Winkel von 10
deg. zu welchen 1¼ am Schritte (an der größsten Seite) erlaubt wird,
und am obern Ende der Vorderhose nach vorn ⅝, während der
obere Teil der Hinterhose 15 deg. abgestochen wird, wie es in allen
Zeichnungen zu sehen ist.
