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Essentials of Oceanography
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Essentials of Oceanography
FIFTH EDITION
Tom Garrison
Orange Coast College
University of Southern California
Australia • Brazil • Japan • Korea • Mexico • Singapore • Spain • United Kingdom • United States
Essentials of Oceanography, Fifth Edition © 2009, 2006 Brooks/Cole, Cengage Learning
Tom Garrison
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein
may be reproduced, transmitted, stored, or used in any form or by any means
Publisher: Yolanda Cossio
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Earth Science Editor: Marcus Boggs recording, scanning, digitizing, taping, Web distribution, information networks,
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Assistant Editor: Liana Monari
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Printed in Canada
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12 11 10 09 08
To my family and my students:
My hope for the future
v
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About the Author
Tom Garrison (Ph.D., University of Southern California) is a professor
in the Marine Science Department at Orange Coast College in Costa Mesa,
California, one of the largest undergraduate marine science departments
in the United States. Dr. Garrison also holds an adjunct professorship at
the University of Southern California. He has been named Outstanding
Marine Educator by the National Marine Technology Society, is a mem-
ber of the COSEE staff, writes a regular column for the journal Ocean-
ography, and was a winner of the prestigious Salgo-Noren Foundation
Award for Excellence in College Teaching. Dr. Garrison was an Emmy
Award team participant as writer and science advisor for the PBS syndi-
cated Oceanus television series, and writer and science advisor for The
Endless Voyage, a set of television programs on oceanography completed
in 2003. His widely used textbooks in oceanography and marine science
are the college market’s best sellers.
His interest in the ocean dates from his earliest memories. As he
grew up with a U.S. Navy admiral as a dad, the subject was hard to
avoid! He had the good fortune to meet great teachers who supported
and encouraged this interest. Years as a midshipman and commissioned
naval officer continued the marine emphasis; graduate school and 40
years of teaching have allowed him to pass his oceanic enthusiasm to
more than 75,000 students.
Dr. Garrison travels extensively, and most recently served as a guest
lecturer at the University of Hong Kong and the University of Auckland
The author standing in Thingvillir graben in Iceland. This cleft—and the area
seen in the middle background—is an extension of the mid-Atlantic ridge above
the ocean’s surface. In a sense, Icelanders live on the seabed.
vii
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Brief Contents
1 Origins 1 Appendix 1
Measurements and Conversions 389
2 History 22
Appendix 2
3 Earth Structure and Plate
Geological Time 392
Tectonics 48
Appendix 3
4 Ocean Basins 76
Absolute and Relative Dating 393
5 Sediments 100
Appendix 4
6 Water 120 Maps and Charts 394
ix
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Contents
2 History 22
Making Marine History 23
Tom Garrison
vii
xi
2.2 Voyaging Combined with Science to Advance 3.5 The Confirmation of Plate Tectonics 64
Ocean Studies 34 A History of Plate Movement Has Been Captured
Captain James Cook Was the First Marine in Residual Magnetic Fields 64
Scientist 34 Plate Movement Above Mantle Plumes and Hot
Accurate Determination of Longitude Was the Spots Provide Evidence of Plate Tectonics 68
Key to Oceanic Exploration and Mapping 35 Sediment Age and Distribution, Oceanic
The United States Exploring Expedition Helped Ridges, and Terranes Are Explained by Plate
Establish Natural Science in America 36 Tectonics 70
Matthew Maury Discovered Worldwide Patterns 3.6 Scientists Still Have Much to Learn
of Winds and Ocean Currents 37 about the Tectonic Process 73
The Challenger Expedition Was Organized from
the First as a Scientific Expedition 38 Questions from Students 74
Ocean Studies Have Military Applications 38 Chapter Summary 75
2.3 Contemporary Oceanography Makes Use Terms and Concepts to Remember 75
of Modern Technology 41 Study Questions 75
Polar Exploration Advanced Ocean Studies 41
New Ships for New Tasks 42
Oceanographic Institutions Arose to Oversee 4 Ocean Basins 76
Complex Research Projects 43
Satellites Have Become Important Tools Deep and Deeper 77
in Ocean Exploration 44
4.1 The Ocean Floor Is Mapped by Bathymetry 77
Questions from Students 45 Echo Sounders Bounce Sound
Chapter Summary 46 off the Seabed 78
Multibeam Systems Combine Many Echo
Terms and Concepts to Remember 46
Sounders 78
Study Questions 47 Satellites Can Be Used to Map Seabed
Contours 78
3 Earth Structure 4.2 Ocean-Floor Topography Varies with
Location 82
and Plate Tectonics 48
4.3 Continental Margins May Be Active
Fire and Ice 49 or Passive 83
Continental Shelves Are Seaward Extensions
3.1 Pieces of Earth’s Surface Look Like They Once of the Continents 84
Fit Together 49 Continental Slopes Connect Continental Shelves
3.2 Earth’s Interior Is Layered 52 to the Deep-Ocean Floor 86
Each of Earth’s Inner Layers Has Unique Submarine Canyons Form at the Junction
Characteristics 52 between Continental Shelf and Continental
Radioactive Elements Generate Heat Inside Slope 87
Earth 54 Continental Rises Form As Sediments
Continents Rise Above the Ocean Because of Accumulate at the Base of the Continental
Isostatic Equilibrium 55 Slope 88
3.3 Wegener’s Idea Is Transformed 56 4.4 The Topology of Deep-Ocean Basins Differs
3.4 The Breakthrough: From Seafloor Spreading from That of the Continental Margin 88
to Plate Tectonics 56 Oceanic Ridges Circle the World 88
Plates Interact at Plate Boundaries 57 Hydrothermal Vents Are Hot Springs on Active
Ocean Basins Form at Divergent Plate Oceanic Ridges 91
Boundaries 57 Abyssal Plains and Abyssal Hills Cover Most
Island Arcs Form, Continents Collide, and Crust of Earth’s Surface 93
Recycles at Convergent Plate Boundaries 60 Volcanic Seamounts and Guyots Project Above
Crust Fractures and Slides at Transform Plate the Seabed 93
Boundaries 62 Trenches and Island Arcs Form in Subduction
Zones 94
xii C O N T E N T S
4.5 The Grand Tour 96
6 Water 120
Questions from Students 97
Chapter Summary 97 Familiar, Abundant, and Odd 121
Terms and Concepts to Remember 97 6.1 The Water Molecule 122
Study Questions 97 6.2 Water Has Unusual Thermal
Characteristics 123
Heat and Temperature Are Not the Same
5 Sediments 100 Thing 123
Not All Substances Have the Same Heat
The Memory of the Ocean 101 Capacity 123
5.1 Sediments Vary Greatly in Appearance 101 Water’s Temperature Affects Its Density 124
Water Becomes Less Dense When It Freezes 124
5.2 Sediments May Be Classified by Particle
Water Removes Heat from Surfaces As It
Size 103
Evaporates 126
5.3 Sediments May Be Classified by Source 104
6.3 Surface Water Moderates Global
Terrigenous Sediments Come from Land 104
Temperature 127
Biogenous Sediments Form from the Remains
Movement of Water Vapor from Tropics to Poles
of Marine Organisms 106
Also Moderates Earth’s Temperature 128
Hydrogenous Sediments Form Directly
Global Warming May Be Influencing
from Seawater 106
Ocean-Surface Temperature 128
Cosmogenous Sediments Come from Space 106
Marine Sediments Are Usually Combinations 6.4 Water Is a Powerful Solvent 129
of Terrigenous and Biogenous Deposits 107 Salinity Is a Measure of Seawater’s Total
Dissolved Organic Solids 129
5.4 Neritic Sediments Overlie Continental
The Components of Ocean Salinity Came
Margins 108
from, and Have Been Modified by, Earth’s
5.5 Pelagic Sediments Vary in Composition Crust 130
and Thickness 109 The Ratio of Dissolved Solids in the Ocean
Turbidites Are Deposited on the Seabed Is Constant 131
by Turbidity Currents 109 Salinity Is Calculated from Chlorinity 131
Clays Are the Finest and Most Easily
Transported Terrigenous Sediments 110
Oozes Form from the Rigid Remains of Living
Creatures 110
Hydrogenous Materials Precipitate out
of Seawater Itself 113
Evaporites Precipitate As Seawater
Evaporates 113
Oolite Sands Form When Calcium Carbonate
Precipitates from Seawater 113
Researchers Have Mapped the Distribution
of Deep-Ocean Sediments 114
5.6 Scientists Use Specialized Tools to Study Ocean
Sediments 114
5.7 Sediments Are Historical Records of Ocean
Processes 116
Questions from Students 118
Chapter Summary 118
Terms and Concepts to Remember 119
Tom Garrison
C O N T E N T S xiii
The Ocean Is in Chemical Equilibrium 132 Sonar Systems Use Sound to Detect Underwater
The Ocean’s Mixing Time Is Short 132 Objects 140
6.5 Gases Dissolve in Seawater 133 Questions from Students 143
Nitrogen 133 Chapter Summary 144
Oxygen 133
Carbon Dioxide (CO2) 133 Terms and Concepts to Remember 145
xiv C O N T E N T S
Hurricane Wilma Was the Most Powerful
Atlantic Hurricane Ever Measured 167
9 Waves 198
Why Was the 2005 Season So Devastating? 167 “. . . change without notice.” 199
Questions from Students 168
9.1 Ocean Waves Move Energy across the Sea
Chapter Summary 169 Surface 200
Terms and Concepts to Remember 169 9.2 Waves Are Classified by Their Physical
Study Questions 169 Characteristics 201
Ocean Waves Are Formed by a Disturbing
Force 201
8 Ocean Circulation 170 Waves Are Weakened by a Restoring Force 201
Wavelength Is the Most Useful Measure of Wave
Palm Trees in Britain? 171 Size 202
8.1 Mass Flow of Ocean Water Is Driven by Wind 9.3 The Behavior of Waves Is Influenced
and Gravity 171 by the Depth of Water through Which
8.2 Surface Currents Are Driven by the Winds 172 They Are Moving 203
Surface Currents Flow around the Periphery 9.4 Wind Blowing over the Ocean Generates
of Ocean Basins 173 Waves 204
Seawater Flows in Six Great Surface Circuits 174 Larger Swell Move Faster Than Small Swell 206
Boundary Currents Have Different Many Factors Influence Wind Wave
Characteristics 175 Development 206
A Final Word on Gyres 180 Wind Waves Can Grow to Enormous Size 207
8.3 Surface Currents Affect Weather 9.5 Interference Produces Irregular Wave
and Climate 181 Motions 208
8.4 Wind Can Cause Vertical Movement of Ocean 9.6 Deep-Water Waves Change to Shallow-Water
Water 181 Waves As They Approach Shore 210
Nutrient-Rich Water Rises near the Equator 181 Waves Refract When They Approach a Shore
Wind Can Induce Upwelling near Coasts 181 at an Angle 211
Wind Can Also Induce Coastal Waves Can Reflect from Large Vertical
Downwelling 182 Surfaces 212
8.5 El Niño and La Niña Are Exceptions to Normal 9.7 Internal Waves Can Form between Ocean
Wind and Current Flow 183 Layers of Differing Densities 213
8.6 Thermohaline Circulation Affects All 9.8 “Tidal Waves” Are Probably Not What You
the Ocean’s Water 189 Think 214
Water Masses Have Distinct, Often Unique 9.9 Storm Surges Form beneath Strong Cyclonic
Characteristics 189 Storms 214
Thermohaline Flow and Surface Flow:
The Global Heat Connection 189 9.10 Water Can Rock in a Confined Basin 216
The Formation and Downwelling of Deep Water 9.11 Water Displacement Causes Tsunami
Occurs in Polar Regions 189 and Seismic Sea Waves 217
Deep Water Formation Can Affect Climate 190 Tsunami Are Always Shallow-Water Waves 217
Water Masses May Converge, Fall, Travel Tsunami Move at High Speed 218
across the Seabed, and Slowly Rise 191 What’s It Like to Encounter a Tsunami? 218
8.7 Studying Currents 193 Tsunami Have a Long and Destructive
History 219
Questions from Students 196 Tsunami Warning Networks Can Save Lives 221
Chapter Summary 196 Questions from Students 223
Terms and Concepts to Remember 197 Chapter Summary 224
Study Questions 197 Terms and Concepts to Remember 224
Study Questions 225
C O N T E N T S xv
Questions from Students 242
10 Tides 226
Chapter Summary 243
Maelstrom! 227 Terms and Concepts to Remember 243
10.1 Tides Are the Longest of All Ocean Study Questions 243
Waves 228
10.2 Tides Are Forced Waves Formed by Gravity
and Inertia 228
11 Coasts 244
The Movement of the Moon Generates Strong “. . . the finest harbour in the world.” 245
Tractive Forces 228
The Sun Also Generates Tractive Forces 232 11.1 Coasts Are Shaped by Marine and Terrestrial
Sun and Moon Influence the Tides Together 233 Processes 245
10.3 The Dynamic Theory of Tides Adds Fluid 11.2 Erosional Processes Dominate Some
Motion Dynamics to the Equilibrium Coasts 248
Theory 234 Erosional Coasts Often Have Complex
Tidal Patterns Center on Amphidromic Features 249
Points 235 Selective Erosion Can Straighten Shorelines 249
The Tidal Reference Level Is Called the Tidal Land Erosion and Sea-Level Change Also Shape
Datum 237 Coasts 249
Tidal Patterns Vary with Ocean Basin Shape Volcanism and Earth Movements Affect
and Size 237 Coasts 251
Tide Waves Generate Tidal Currents 237 11.3 Beaches Dominate Depositional Coasts 252
Tidal Friction Gradually Slows Earth’s Beaches Consist of Loose Particles 252
Rotation 239 Wave Action, Particle Size, and Beach
10.4 Most Tides Can Be Predicted Accurately 240 Permeability Combine to Build Beaches 252
10.5 Tidal Patterns Can Affect Marine Beaches Often Have Distinct Profiles 252
Organisms 240 Waves Transport Sediment on Beaches 253
Sand Input and Outflow Are Balanced in Coastal
10.6 Power Can Be Extracted from Tidal Cells 255
Motion 241
11.4 Larger-Scale Features Accumulate
on Depositional Coasts 256
Sand Spits and Bay Mouth Bars Form When
the Longshore Current Slows 256
Barrier Islands and Sea Islands Are Separated
from Land 257
Deltas Can Form at River Mouths 258
11.5 Biological Activity Forms and Modifies
Coasts 260
11.6 Fresh Water Meets the Ocean in Estuaries 262
Estuaries Are Classified by Their Origins 262
Estuary Characteristics Are Influenced by Water
Density and Flow 262
Estuaries Support Complex Marine
Communities 263
11.7 Characteristics of U.S. Coasts 264
The Pacific Coast 264
The Atlantic Coast 265
The Gulf Coast 265
Tom Garrison
xvi C O N T E N T S
Questions from Students 268 Scientific Names Describe Organisms 290
Chapter Summary 269 12.8 Marine Organisms Live Together
Terms and Concepts to Remember 269 in Communities 290
Organisms Interact within Communities 290
Study Questions 269 Competition Determines Each Organism’s
Success in a Community 290
12 Life in the Ocean 270 Marine Communities Change through Time 291
12.9 Rapid and Violent Change Causes Mass
The Ideal Place for Life 271 Extinctions 292
12.1 Life on Earth Is Notable for Unity and Questions from Students 294
Diversity 272 Chapter Summary 295
12.2 Energy Flowing through Living Things Allows Terms and Concepts to Remember 295
Them to Maintain Complex Organization 272 Study Questions 295
Energy Can Be Stored through
Photosynthesis 272
Energy Can Also Be Stored through 13 Pelagic Communities 296
Chemosynthesis 273
12.3 Primary Productivity Is the Synthesis Masters of the Storm 297
of Organic Materials 274 13.1 Pelagic Communities Occupy the Open
Primary Productivity Occurs in the Water Ocean 297
Column, Seabed Sediments, and Solid
Rock 274 13.2 Plankton Drift with Ocean Currents 299
Food Webs Disperse Energy through 13.3 Plankton Size Determines Collection
Communities 276 Method 299
12.4 Marine Life Success Depends upon Physical 13.4 Most Phytoplankton Are Photosynthetic
and Biological Environmental Factors 278 Autotrophs 300
Photosynthesis Depends on Light 278 Picoplankton 301
Temperature Influences Metabolic Rate 279 Diatoms 301
Organic Matter Production Requires Dissolved Dinoflagellates 302
Nutrients 280 Coccolithophores and Other Phytoplankton 304
Salinity Influences the Function of Cell 13.5 Phytoplankton Productivity Varies with Local
Membranes 280 Conditions 306
Dissolved Gas Concentrations Vary
13.6 Zooplankton Consume Primary
with Temperature 281
Producers 307
Dissolved Carbon Dioxide Influences the Ocean’s
Acid-Base Balance 281 13.7 Nekton Swim Actively 309
Hydrostatic Pressure Is Rarely Limiting 282 Squids and Nautiluses Are Mollusks 309
Substances Move Through Cells by Diffusion, Shrimps and Their Relatives Are the Most
Osmosis, and Active Transport 282 Successful Nektonic Invertebrates 310
Fishes Are the Most Abundant and Successful
12.5 The Marine Environment Is Classified
Vertebrates 310
in Distinct Zones 284
Sharks Are Cartilaginous Fishes 311
12.6 The Concept of Evolution Helps Explain Bony Fishes Are the Most Abundant
the Nature of Life in the Ocean 285 and Successful Fishes 312
Evolution Appears to Operate by Natural Fishes Are Successful Because of Unique
Selection 285 Adaptations 312
Evolution “Fine Tunes” Organisms to Their Sea Turtles and Marine Crocodiles Are
Environment 286 Ocean-Going Reptiles 314
12.7 Oceanic Life Is Classified by Evolutionary Some Marine Birds Are the World’s Most
Heritage 288 Efficient Flyers 315
Systems of Classification May Be Artificial Marine Mammals Include the Largest Animals
or Natural 288 Ever to Have Lived on Earth 316
C O N T E N T S xvii
Questions from Students 322 14.7 Tropical Coral Reef Communities Are
Chapter Summary 322 Productive Because Nutrients Are Efficiently
Recycled 336
Terms and Concepts to Remember 323 Coral Animals Build Reefs 336
Study Questions 323 Tropical Coral Reefs Support Large Numbers
of Species 337
Coral Reefs Are Classified by Their History 337
14 Benthic Communities 324 Coral Reefs Are Stressed by Environmental
Change 340
The Resourceful Hermit 325
14.8 The Deep-Sea Floor Is Surprisingly Well
14.1 Benthic Organisms Live On or In the Sea Populated 341
Floor 325
14.9 Vent Communities Depend
14.2 The Distribution of Benthic Organisms Is on Chemosynthetic Producers 342
Rarely Random 326
14.10 Specialized Communities Form around
14.3 Seaweeds and Marine Plants Are Diverse Whale Falls 342
and Effective Primary Producers 326
Questions from Students 344
Complex Adaptations Permit Seaweeds to Thrive
in Shallow Waters 326 Chapter Summary 344
Seaweeds Are Nonvascular Organisms 327 Terms and Concepts to Remember 345
Seaweeds Are Classified by Their Photosynthetic Study Questions 345
Pigments 328
Seaweed Communities Shield and Feed Benthic
Animals 329 15 Uses and Abuses
True Marine Plants Are Vascular Plants 329
of the Ocean 346
14.4 Salt Marshes and Estuaries Are Highly
Productive Benthic Habitats 330 A Cautionary Tale 347
14.5 Rocky Intertidal Communities Can Thrive 15.1 Marine Resources Are Subject to the
Despite Wave Shock 331 Economic Laws of Supply and Demand 349
14.6 Sand Beach and Cobble Beach Communities 15.2 Physical Resources 350
Exist in One of Earth’s Most Rigorous Petroleum and Natural Gas Are the Ocean’s Most
Habitats 334 Valuable Resources 350
Large Methane Hydrate Deposits Exist
in Shallow Sediments 351
Marine Sand and Gravel Are Used in
Construction 352
Salts Are Gathered from Evaporation Basins 352
Fresh Water Is Obtained by Desalination 353
15.3 Marine Energy 354
Windmills Are Effective Energy Producers 354
Waves and Currents Can Be Harnessed to
Generate Power 354
15.4 Biological Resources 356
Fish, Crustaceans, and Mollusks Are the Ocean’s
Most Valuable Biological Resources 357
Today’s Fisheries Are Not Sustainable 358
Much of the Commercial Catch Is Discarded
as “Bycatch” 359
Drift Net Fishing Has Been Particularly
Tom Garrison
Disruptive 359
Whaling Continues 360
A jetliner rushes east across the Pacific with an assist from a very fast jet stream
xviii C O N T E N T S
Marine Botanical Resources Have Many Appendix 1
Uses 361
Organisms Can Be Grown in Controlled
Measurements and Conversions 389
Environments 361
New Generations of Drugs and Bioproducts Appendix 2
Are of Oceanic Origin 362 Geological Time 392
15.5 Nonextractive Resources Use the Ocean
in Place 364 Appendix 3
15.6 Marine Pollutants May Be Natural Absolute and Relative Dating 393
or Human-Generated 366
Pollutants Interfere with Organisms’ Biochemical Appendix 4
Processes 366
Oil Enters the Ocean from Many Sources 367 Maps and Charts 394
Cleaning a Spill Always Involves Trade-Offs 369
Toxic Synthetic Organic Chemicals May Be Appendix 5
Biologically Amplified 370 Latitude and Longitude, Time,
Heavy Metals Can Be Toxic in Very Small
Quantities 370 and Navigation 398
Eutrophication Stimulates the Growth of Some
Species to the Detriment of Others 371 Appendix 6
Plastic and Other Forms of Solid Waste Can Be The Law of the Sea Governs
Especially Hazardous to Marine Life 372
Pollution Is Costly 374
Marine Resource Allocation 401
15.7 Organisms Cannot Prosper If Their Habitats Appendix 7
Are Disturbed 374
Bays and Estuaries Are Especially Sensitive Working in Marine Science 403
to the Effects of Pollution 374
Other Habitats Are at Risk 374
15.8 Marine Conservation Areas Offer a Glimmer Glossary 407
of Hope 375
15.9 Earth’s Climate Is Changing 375 Index 427
The Protective Ozone Layer Can be Depleted
by Chlorine-Containing Chemicals 375
Earth’s Surface Temperature Is Rising 377
What Percentage of Global Warming Is Caused
by Human Activity? 380
Mathematical Models Are Used to Predict Future
Climates 381
Can Global Warming Be Curtailed? Should It Be
Curtailed? 382
15.10 What Can Be Done? 384
Questions from Students 387
Chapter Summary 388
Terms and Concepts to Remember 388
Study Questions 388
C O N T E N T S xix
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Preface for Students and Instructors
xxi
Warmed by the Gulf and underlying geology of the study area. This book is orga-
Stream, palm-like nized to make those connections from the first.
trees grow on
the west coast of
Ireland.
Organization and Pedagogy
A broad view of marine science is presented in 15 chapters,
each free standing (or nearly so) to allow an instructor to
assign chapters in any order he or she finds appropriate.
Each chapter begins with a Study Plan (an outline of the
organization of the chapter) followed by a vignette, a short
illustrated tale, observation, or sea story to whet the appe-
tite for the material to come. Some vignettes spotlight sci-
entists at work; others describe the experiences of people or
animals in the sea. Each vignette ends with a brief overview
of the chapter’s high points and a few advance organizers
for what’s to come.
The chapters are written in an engaging style. Terms are
defined and principles developed in a straightforward man-
ner. Some of the more complex ideas are initially outlined
in broad brushstrokes, and then the same concepts are dis-
cussed again in greater depth after students have a clear view
of the overall situation. When appropriate to their meanings,
the derivations of words are shown. Measurements are given
Tom Garrison
in both metric (S.I.) and American systems. At the request of
a great many students, the units are written out (that is, we
write kilometer rather than km) to avoid ambiguity and for
ease of reading.
the ocean and its resources. This book has been designed with The photos, charts, graphs, and paintings in the exten-
ocean literacy guidelines firmly in mind. sive illustration program have been chosen for their utility,
The book’s plan is straightforward: We begin with a clarity, and beauty. Heads and subheads are now written as
brief look at the history of marine science (with additional complete sentences for clarity, with main heads sequentially
historical information sprinkled through later chapters). numbered. Internet icons are provided at nearly all of the
Because all matter on Earth except hydrogen and some subheads, indicating that text-specific web links provide
helium was generated in stars, our story of the ocean starts additional information. A set of Study Breaks concludes
with stars. Have oceans evolved elsewhere? The theories of each chapter’s major sections—the answers are provided in
Earth structure and plate tectonics are presented next, as a the book’s dedicated website.
base on which to build the explanation of bottom features Also concluding each chapter is a Questions from
that follows. A survey of ocean physics and chemistry pre- Students section. These questions are ones that students
pares us for discussions of atmospheric circulation, classi- have asked me over the years. This material is an important
cal physical oceanography, and coastal processes. Our look extension of the chapters and occasionally contains key
at marine biology begins with an overview of the problems words and illustrations. Each chapter ends with an array of
and benefits of living in seawater, continues with a discus- study materials for students, beginning with a new feature,
sion of the production and consumption of food, and ends Chapter Summary, a narrative review of the chapter just
with taxonomic and ecological surveys of marine organisms. concluded. Important Terms and Concepts to Remem-
The last chapters treat marine resources and environmental ber are listed next; these are also defined in an extensive
concerns. Glossary in the back of the book. Study Questions are
This icon {GW icon} appears when our discussion turns also included in each chapter; writing the answers to these
toward the topic of global climate change. Oceanography questions will cement your understanding of the concepts
is central to an understanding of this interesting and con- presented.
troversial set of ideas, so those areas have been expanded, Appendixes will help you master measurements and
emphasized, and clearly marked in this edition. As always conversions, geological time, latitude and longitude, chart
in my books, connections between disciplines are emphasized projections, the mathematics of Coriolis Effect and tidal
throughout. Marine science draws on several fields of study, forces, the taxonomy of marine organisms, and other useful
integrating the work of specialists into a unified whole. For skills. In case you’d like to join us in our life’s work, the last
example, a geologist studying the composition of marine appendix discusses jobs in marine science.
sediments on the deep seabed must be aware of the biology The book has been thoroughly student tested. You need
and life histories of the organisms in the water above, the not feel intimidated by the concepts—this material has been
chemistry that affects the shells and skeletons of the crea- mastered by students just like you. Read slowly and go step
tures as they fall to the ocean floor, the physics of particle by step through any parts that give you trouble. Your pre-
settling and water density and ocean currents, and the age decessors have found the ideas presented here to be useful,
xxii P R E F A C E
inspiring, and applicable to their lives. Best of all, they have
found the subject to be interesting!
P R E F A C E xxiii
ard responsible—among many other things—for the website Taylor at the Centre for Maritime Research in Greenwich
and extensive links. dug through their archives one more time. Don Dixon,
Yet another round of gold medals should go to my fam- William Hartmann, Ron Miller, and William Kaufmann
ily for being patient (well, relatively patient) during those provided paintings, Dan Burton sent photos, and Andrew
years of days and nights when dad was holed up in his dark Goodwillie printed customized charts. Bryndís Brandsdót-
reference-littered cave, throwing chicken bones out the door tir of the Science Institute, University of Iceland, patiently
and listening to really loud Glenn Gould Bach recordings, showed me to the jaw-slackening Thingvillir rift. Wim van
again working late on The Book. Thank you Marsha, Jeanne, Egmond contributed striking photomicrographs of dia-
Greg, Grace, Sarah, John, and Dinara for your love and toms and copepods. Kim Fulton-Bennett of MBARI found
understanding. extraordinarily beautiful photos of delicate midwater ani-
The people who provided pictures and drawings mals. Peter Ramsay at Marine Geosolutions, Ltd., of South
have worked miracles to obtain the remarkable images Africa sent state-of-the art side-scan sonar images. Michael
in these pages. To mention just a few: Gerald Kuhn sent Boss kindly contributed his images of Admiral Zheng He’s
classics taken by his late SIO colleague Francis Shepard, astonishing beochuan. Bill Haxby at Lamont provided truly
Vincent Courtillot of the University of Paris contributed beautiful seabed scans. Karen Riedel helped with DSDP core
the remarkable photo of the Aden Rift, Catherine Devine images. James Ingle offered me a desk at Stanford when-
at Cornell provided time-lapse graphics of tsunami propa- ever I needed it. NOAA, JOI, NASA, USGS, the Smithso-
gation, Robert Headland of the Scott Polar Research Insti- nian Institution, the Royal Geographical Society, the U.S.
tute in Cambridge searched out prints of polar subjects, Navy, and the U.S. Coast Guard came through time and
Charles Hollister at Woods Hole kindly provided seafloor again, as did private organizations like Alcoa Aluminum,
photos from his important books, Andreas Rechnitzer Cunard, Shell Oil, The Maersk Line, Grumman Aviation,
and Don Walsh recalled their exciting days with Trieste, Breitling-SA, CNN, Associated Press, MobileEdge, and the
and Bruce Hall, Pat Mason, Ron Romanoski, Ted Delaca, Los Angeles Times. The Woods Hole team was also generous—
William Cochlan, Christopher Ralling, Mark McMahon, especially Robin Hurst, Jack Cook, Larry Madin, and Ruth
John Shelton, Alistair Black, Howard Spero, Eric Bender, Curry. Thanks also to WHOI researchers Philip Richardson,
Ken-ichi Inoue, and Norman Cole contributed beauti- William Schmitz, Susumu Honjo, Doug Webb, James Broda,
ful slides. Seran Gibbard provided the highest-resolu- Albert Bradley, John Waterbury, and Kathy Patterson who
tion images yet made of the surface of Titan, and Michael all provided photographs, diagrams, and advice. Individuals
Malin forwarded truly beautiful images of erosion on Mars. with special expertise have also been willing to share: Hank
Herbert Kawainui Kane again allowed us to reprint his mag- Brandli processed satellite digital images of storms, Peter
nificent paintings of Hawai’ian subjects. Deborah Day and Sloss at the National Geophysical Data Center helped me sort
Cindy Clark at Scripps Institution, Jutta Voss-Diestelkamp through computer-generated seabed images, Steven Grand
at the Alfred Wegener Institut in Bremerhaven, and David of the University of Texas provided a descending deep-slab
xxiv P R E F A C E
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gentleness and charity of Fénélon, so simple and true in all its
demonstrations, excites a tender reverence. The soul of both was
love. Socrates mingled wisdom with his worship of the beautiful,
which to him typified the supreme Being. Fénélon, in adoring God,
believed, that to love the supreme Being was the first, and, if
properly accomplished, the only duty of human beings.
François de Salignac de la Mothe Fénélon, was born at the château
of Fénélon, in Périgord, on the 6th of August, 1651. His family was
ancient and illustrious. His father had been previously married, had
several children, and was advanced in years; which caused his
relations to oppose his second marriage, especially as the lady of his
choice had but small fortune. She was, however, of a high family,
being of the same, though a younger branch, as the countess of
Soissons, wife of the famous prince Eugène's elder brother.
Mademoiselle de la Cropte added beauty and merit to her
distinguished birth. As the child of his old age, the count de Fénélon
educated his younger son carefully; his gentle, affectionate nature
soon displayed itself, and caused him to be beloved. His constitution
was delicate, even to being weakly; but such care was taken to
fortify it, that he became capable of great bodily and mental labour.
His lively, just, and penetrating mind,—his upright, generous, and
feeling heart,—his peculiarly happy dispositions, were perceived by
his father in childhood, and cultivated: he was early taught to aspire
to regulate his conduct by virtuous principles; and the natural
instinct for justice which distinguished him, inclined him to listen and
obey. His disposition being flexible and mild, he soon took pleasure
in fulfilling his duties, in order, and in attention. Anecdotes are told
of his display of reason and his gentleness, during childhood.
Religiously and kindly educated, he early learnt to examine his own
motives, and to restrain himself; docility was natural to him; but
added to this, he already showed toleration for the faults of others.
His health being delicate, it was resolved not to send him to any
school; a tutor was engaged, happily formed for the task. The young
Fénélon was treated neither with severity nor caprice; his lessons
were made easy and agreeable, and his capacity rendered the
acquisition of knowledge agreeable. At the age of twelve he wrote
French and Latin with elegance and facility, and was well advanced
in Greek. He had studied with care, and even imitated, the
historians, poets, philosophers, and orators of the ancient world. His
mind was thus refined and enriched, and he never lost his taste for
ancient learning, while he carried into religious studies the good
taste, grace, and variety of knowledge he acquired. Being early
destined for the ecclesiastical state, no doubt care was taken to
direct his studies in such a way as best accorded with a taste for
retirement; and that submission and docility were inculcated as
virtues of the first order. Submission and docility he had, but they
were based on nobler principles than fear or servility. They arose
from a well-regulated mind, from charity, gentleness, and a piety
that animated rules and obedience with the warm spirit of love of
God.
It was necessary for the purposes of a clerical education, that he
should quit his paternal roof. There was a university at Cahors, not
far distant, and the abbé de Fénélon (as he was then called) was
sent there, at the age of twelve. He did not at first enter on the
course of philosophy; although sufficiently advanced, it was feared
that his young mind was not as yet capable of the attention that it
required, and that he might be disgusted by its dryness, and the
difficulties presented. He began, therefore, with a course of rhetoric,
which forced him to retread old ground, and to relearn what he
already knew. Being so well advanced, he was, of course, greatly
superior in knowledge to his equals in age: but this excited no
vanity; he felt that he owed the distinction to the cares bestowed on
his early years. By the age of eighteen, he had finished his course of
theology; he took his degree in the university of Cahors, and
returned to his family.
The marquis de Fénélon, his uncle, invited him to his house in Paris,
and treated him as his son. The marquis was lieutenant-general of
the armies of the king, a man of distinguished valour, and a friend of
the great Condé, who said of him, that "he was equally qualified to
shine in society, in the field, and in the cabinet." He added piety to
his more worldly qualities, and soon perceived and took pride in the
admirable dispositions of his nephew. At the age of nineteen, the
abbé preached sermons that were generally applauded. This success
alarmed his uncle. He perceived the pure and upright character of
his nephew; but, aware of his sensibility, he feared that public
applause might spoil him, and substitute vanity for the holy love of
duty that had hitherto actuated his conduct. From these reasons, he
counselled him to retire from the world, and to enter a seminary,
where in solitude and silence he might cultivate the virtues best
suited to an ecclesiastic. Fénélon yielded; he entered the seminary
of Saint Sulpice, and put himself under the direction of the abbé
Tronson, who was its superior-general. The house was celebrated for
its piety, its simple manners, its pure faith, and, added to these, its
studious and laborious pursuits. He passed five years in this retreat,
devoted to his duties and to the acquirement of knowledge. Thus
were the ardent years of early youth spent in religious silence and
obedience—in study and meditation. There was no worldly applause
to flatter, no fame to entice; his happiness consisted in loving his
companions, and being attached to his duties. His mind became
strengthened in its purposes by example, and his virtues confirmed
by habit. At the age of twenty-four he entered holy orders; and his
future destiny as a priest was unalterably fixed.
167 A catholic priest's duties are laborious and strict. Fénélon
5.
Æta
fulfilled them conscientiously; he visited the sick, he assisted
t. the poor. He was attentive at the confessional, and in
24. catechismal examinations; the obscure labours which, when
sedulously followed up, amount to hardships, but which are the most
meritorious and useful of an ecclesiastic's duties, were so far from
being neglected, that Fénélon devoted himself to them with zeal and
assiduity. He had an exalted notion of the sacred office which he had
taken on himself, looking on it as that of mediation between God
and man. Humble, gentle, and patient, he never sought the rich, nor
disdained the poor; nor did he ever refuse his counsel and
assistance to any one who asked them. Content to be in the most
useful, but the humblest class of priests, he neither sought to rise,
nor even to be known.
His zeal, however, was not satisfied by his exertions in his native
country. He resolved to emigrate to Canada, and to devote his life to
the conversion of the savages; and when considerations of health
prevented the fulfilment of this plan, he turned his eyes to the East.
We read with interest his fervent expressions on this subject, which
show how deeply he was imbued with the love of the good and the
beautiful. "All Greece opens itself to me," he wrote to a friend; "the
sultan retires in affright; the Peloponnesus already begins to breathe
in freedom; again will the church of Corinth flourish; again will she
hear the voice of her apostle. I feel myself transported to these
delightful regions; and while I am collecting the precious monuments
of antiquity, I seem to inhale her true spirit. When will the blood of
the Turks lie mingled with the blood of the Persians on the plains of
Marathon, and leave Greece to religion, to philosophy, and the fine
arts, which regard her as their native soil!"—
"Arva beata!
Petamus Arva divites et insulæ!"