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Copyright © 2011 by Mary Karlin
Foreword copyright © 2011 by Peter Reinhart
Photographs copyright © 2011 by Ed Anderson
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House,
Inc.
eISBN: 978-1-60774044-5
v3.1_r1
Farmhouse Chive Cheddar
Reblochon at 2 months
CONTENTS
Foreword
Introduction
CHAPTER 1
Cheese Making Basics:
Equipment, Ingredients, Processes, and Techniques
CHAPTER 2
Beginning Cheese Making:
Fresh Direct-Acidification Cheeses, Cultured Dairy Products, Fresh Culture-Ripened Cheeses, and
Salt-Rubbed and Brined Cheeses
Mascarpone
Low-Fat Panir
Queso Blanco
Whole Milk Ricotta
Whey Ricotta
Cultured Butter
Crème Fraîche
Buttermilk Sour Cream
Cultured Sour Cream
Yogurt
Yogurt Cheese with Mint
Greek-Style Yogurt
Cabécou
Real Cream Cheese
Crème Fraîche Cottage Cheese
Crescenza
Basic Chèvre
O’banon
Fromage Blanc
Queso Fresco
Quark
Cotija
Ricotta Salata
Feta
Halloumi
CHAPTER 3
Intermediate Cheese Making:
Stretched-Curd and Semisoft, Firm, and Hard Cheeses
Traditional Mozzarella
Burrata
Queso Oaxaca
Bocconcini
Junket Mozzarella
Braided String Cheese
Bread Cheese
Kasseri
Provolone
Smoked Scamorza
Dill Havarti
Edam Boule
Fontina
Gouda
Jack Cheese
Just Jack
Alpine-Style Tomme
Gruyère
Tea-Smoked Gruyère
Jarlsberg
Saffron-Infused Manchego
Parmesan
Romano
Asiago Pepato
American Brick
Caerphilly
Colby
Brew-Curds Cheddar
Cheddar-Jalapeño Cheese Curds
Farmhouse Chive Cheddar
Irish-Style Cheddar
Double-Milled Cheddar
Brin d’Amour
Cocoa-Rubbed Dry Jack Cheese
Lavender Mist Chèvre
Honey-Rubbed Montasio
Rustico Foglie di Noce
CHAPTER 4
More Advanced Cheese Making:
Bloomy-Rind and Surface-Ripened Cheeses, Washed-Rind and Smeared-Rind Cheeses, and Blue
Cheeses
CHAPTER 5
Cooking with Artisan Cheeses
Maple-Planked Brie with Mushroom-Walnut Ragout
Smoked Mozzarella–Eggplant Fritters with Roasted Tomato–Herb Sauce
Grilled Grape Leaf Goat Cheese Toasts with Citrus Tapenade
Taleggio Fonduta
Grilled Cumin Flatbreads with Tomato-Ginger Chutney and Crème
Fraîche Cottage Cheese
Goat Cheese and Chive Fallen Soufflés with Herb-Citrus Vinaigrette
Manchego and Saffron Flan
Herb Salad with Chèvre-and Bacon-Stuffed Figs
Bocconcini and Roasted Tomato Pasta Salad
Spinach Salad with Charred Ricotta Salata and Caramelized Oranges
Cobb Salad with Buttermilk Blue Dressing
Moroccan Chickpea Soup with Harissa and Yogurt Cheese
Tortilla Soup with Grilled Shrimp, Cotija, and Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa
Curried Saag Panir
Grilled Chiles Rellenos Stuffed with Queso Oaxaca, Mushrooms, and
Sweet Potato
Blue Cheese, Bacon, and Pear Galette
Grilled Apple, Jack, and Curry Sandwich
Yogurt and Dill No-Knead Bread
Cheddar and Chive Scones
Blue Cheese and Toasted Walnut Fudge Brownies
Caramelized Apple Tart with Cheddar Crust
Vanilla Bean Fontainebleau with Pistachio Brittle
Ricotta-Filled Chocolate Crepes with Nutella and Sour Cherry Preserves
Stone Fruit Phyllo Tarts with Mascarpone-Cardamom Ice Cream
Acknowledgments
Glossary
Resources
Bibliography
Index
Leaf-Wrapped Goat Cheeses. Clockwise from bottom: peach, maple,
persimmon, fig
FOREWORD
M ost people know me as a bread guy, but some who knew me back
when remember me also as a cheese guy. Yes, before embarking on
the baking career that has defined my professional life, I thought I might
instead be a cheese maker, fermenting milk rather than grain. I had
studied a small book on making cheese at home and worked out a deal
with a local raw milk dairy to buy all their unsold milk for one dollar a
gallon, about thirty gallons a week. I borrowed a stainless steel, double-
jacketed cheese maker on wheels from the same dairy, and every week I
rolled it out into the driveway of the ranch where I lived with thirty
other people in a Christian community (I was known as Brother Peter
back then), and transformed that milk into six small wheels of cheddar-
style cheese that, after some aging, was pretty tasty. We called it Abbey
Jack even though it wasn’t anything like other Jack cheeses, because we
liked the sound of the name.
Soon I was looking at a space in a converted wine building (I lived in
Sonoma County in the heart of wine country, so old wine buildings were
abundant) to set up what I intended to call the Forestville Creamery.
After we measured the one stall in the building that was still available
amidst the other businesses—the existing winery, a gem and crystal
seller, a silk screen T-shirt shop, a comic book collector, and scattered
offices—I studied the board of health requirements for cheese making
operations. I looked, too, at the requirements for bread bakeries, since I
also was a serious amateur baker at the time. It was a no-brainer—the
rules governing a cheese operation were far more stringent and costly
than those for bread, and so I took the path of least resistance. Had I
chosen the creamery path, who knows: perhaps I’d have written a few
books like the one you are now holding instead of bread books. But, as
we all know, there are no coincidences, and this is why I am so grateful
to Mary Karlin, whom I have known for several years and who I consider
one of the godmothers of the artisan food movement in Sonoma County,
with her popular classes on cheese making and wood-fired cooking and
her many years of studying and working side by side with the finest
chefs and cheese makers in America (even I had the honor of working
numerous times with Mary at the award-winning Ramekins Culinary
School in Sonoma). Here, she demystifies essential processes for a new
generation of artisans in this, the most comprehensive book ever written
for home cheese makers.
There are two key words in the previous sentence that I’d like to
revisit: “demystifies” and “artisan.” The category of fermented foods
includes bread, wine, beer, spirit beverages, cheese, pickles, cured
meats, sauerkraut, kimchi, and more. They all evoke an ancient lineage
of mystery that, until modern science grabbed hold, had an aura of
alchemy and magic. This is because, in my opinion, each of these
foodstuffs represents a type of transformation of one thing into
something totally new and different. And the artisans who knew how to
perform those transformations attained a vital, honored, and almost
shamanistic role in their communities. They had, or so it seemed, a
mysterious power. But as science and technology deconstructed the
transformational steps into very non-magical, mechanical processes, an
important trade-off occurred: volume production supplanted small-scale
artistry.
However, as anyone interested in this book probably knows, we are
now in the midst of an artisanal renewal. We saw it happen with bread,
wine, and beer in the 1980s, followed by a flowering of amazing
domestic farmstead cheeses in the 1990s. Lately it’s showing up in salumi
and charcuterie. And where the professionals dare to go, home cooks
soon follow. This book celebrates these artisan mysteries, if I can be so
bold as to resurrect that mystical image. I think it’s allowable, because
things exist on many levels, and while alchemy is no longer the rulebook
of the day, the yearning for the transformations that it symbolically
points to never has and never will depart from us. And so I believe that
all of us, whether professional or home cooks, long for the kind of
empowerment that comes with the ability to transform one thing into
something else.
In my cheese making days I marveled at how milk could become so
many different other things and how, if I learned how to properly
control the environment in which I performed my transformations, I
could tease out flavors and textures that weren’t there in the original
source product; I could effect a radical change in the elements, bringing
joy to others. I viewed my stainless steel cheese vat as a kind of altar,
and my aging room as a sacred, veiled chamber. I believe it is in making
connections like this—in seeing the implications embedded in fermented
and thus transformational foods (and in all things, for that matter, but
it’s so much easier to grasp with fermented foods)—that we do attain a
type of veil-splitting empowerment and thus begin to scratch the itch of
our deeper yearnings.
So a book like this one, which demystifies and simplifies, also leads us
deeper into mystery, because it gives us the tools to effect
transformations and to experience the joy of such creation, and also the
joy of giving joy. Every now and then I get the urge to track down some
rennet and make another batch of Abbey Jack, and with this book in
hand, I’ve already begun designating my aging cellar. But more
important, because I have the privilege of traveling frequently, I look
forward to tasting the cheeses made by you, of sharing in your joy by
being the recipient of it.
One final anecdote: During the height of my Abbey Jack days I
decided to make small, twelve-ounce wheels to give as Christmas gifts. I
even dipped them in beeswax and tied them up with twine, with a little
nub of string dangling off the top to facilitate untying them, and happily
gave them to my friends to send to their families across the country. I
couldn’t wait to hear how everyone liked it (this was in the early 1980s
when many people had never eaten homemade, aged cheese). A few
days after Christmas I heard one of my friends, who was talking on the
telephone, laughing hysterically. He kept looking at me and laughing
again. When he got off the phone he said, “My folks wanted me to tell
you thank you for all your hard work, but to also let you know that it
was smelliest candle they’d ever burned.”
Over the next few days I heard this same response from three other
people. Of course, those who figured out that it was cheese raved about
it, but, frankly, I still get notes from old friends reminding me of my
days as the smelly candle maker.
So as you dive into the world that Mary Karlin describes in the
following pages, I leave you with this thought: Know that you are
entering a long tradition of multidimensional artisanship, with all that
the term implies. As you become adept in your transformations of milk
into curds and whey, and thus into cheeses of many types, and as you
learn how to evoke every subtle nuance of flavor trapped in those curds
through proper temperature control, acid balancing, and aging, and as
you begin spreading the joy you have created by sharing the cheese you
create, remember, above all else, to always label your cheese.
Peter Reinhart
Charlotte, North Carolina
September 2010
Double-Milled Stout Cheddar at 2 weeks
INTRODUCTION
* * * * *
‘I say, Jim,’ it was the voice of our old acquaintance, Bill, ‘I can go
on tellin’ ’ee now as there’s no one near to hear. I wish as I’d not got
this bit job to do, or I’d ’a followed Mrs Salter to the town. It did
make me skeared to see her white an’ bruised, an’ not a man near
her to give help to her.’
After a while; ‘I says to her, says I, “Mrs Salter, an’ where be ye
goin’ upon this stormy night?” an’ she says, “Don’t stop me, I’m
goin’ on to t’ town, to see ’em as has harmed my chil’en, that they
may give account to me. I’ll help my chil’en,” she cried, an’ she
bursted out in tears. (I can’t bear t’ wimmin’s cryin’,’ added Bill, in
parenthesis). ‘“He may push me agen t’ wall an’ say he’ll kill me, but
I’ll foller him to t’ town, an’ see him there.”’
Again after a while, ‘I says to her, “Mrs Salter, an’ aren’t ye a bit
afraid o’ being kilt?” but she cries out to me, “Oh, you’ve not had no
children, or ye wouldn’t know what it was to be afraid. They’re as
dear to me one as the t’other,” she says, all a-cryin’ still, “they’ve lain
in my arms, an’ I’ve fed ’em from my breast; they’re my lad an’ my
girl, though t’ world cries shame on ’em; an’ I’d sooner be kilt mysel’
than do nought to help ’em now.” An’ I says to her, “Go, then, Mrs
Salter, though I don’t understan’ what ye mean; go then, if ye must,
an’ t’ Lord be wid’ ye as ye go!” an’ she seemed to rush past me, she
was in such a takin’; an’ she went down t’ river path, an’ away into t’
night. I hope as she’ll come to no harm, though I be skeared, for
she seem so alone i’ t’ darkness, wi’ no one near to help. She be a
good mother, she be, poor Jenny Salter, though t’ lass an’ t’ lad have
not done well by her.’
* * * * *
The voices had died away along the path, and the sound of the
footsteps too had died away, when the boy, who had been prostrate
upon the grass beneath, rose up in the darkness, and sat upon the
ground. There was no light by which his features could be seen, or
that light might have shone upon an altered face. He only knew that
his eyes were full of tears, and that through that blindness there
shone a newer life. With steady hands he undid the bandage he had
tied, and arranged his comforter once more round his neck—his life
should have steadier purposes in future than that of obeying and
following his own insanity. With tearful eyes, but without any
articulate confession, he let himself kneel for an instant on the
grass; and, then, with a heart full of the strength that turns remorse
to penitence, he prepared to follow his mother to the town. It should
not be in vain—oh! it should not be in vain—that he had heard those
words which he felt were meant for him. It might yet be possible to
find his mother in the darkness; and when he had found her he
would stay with her.
No doubt it would have been better if poor Jenny could have had
her son by her side during her lonely walk in the night-time, but
nearly an hour had passed now since her light footsteps made soft
echoes on the path between the river and the town. She had gone
on through darkness, looking straight in front of her, as if her glance
could embrace the distant city, with a far more definite purpose than
might have been imagined from her slight figure, and fixed, straining
eyes. The darkness was nothing, pain and weariness were nothing,
the throbbing of the bruise on her head, or the loneliness of night,
she might remember these things when they were over, but at
present they were scarcely able to touch her consciousness. In one
way or another she would save her children; after that it would not
matter what became of her.
CHAPTER XXXI
DRESSING FOR DINNER
AND, whilst poor Jenny was pursuing her lonely way through the
darkness, one whom she deemed her enemy was in a very different
case—Miss Tina Gillan, at that moment dressing for the evening, in
an apartment of Mr Lee’s house at the top of Lindum Hill. It was a
large room that had been prepared for her, the darkness and lights
of the valley were hidden by closed blinds, there was a blazing fire
which made cheerful, dancing radiance, and her dress for the
evening was laid out upon the bed. After the cold, dark drive in an
open carriage from the village, this seemed a haven of warmth, and
rest, and peace. Only Tina was not quite pleased that no maid had
been provided—it would have been so luxurious to have a lady’s
maid!
She stood now in the centre of the large, lighted room, with a
crimson wrapper beneath her rippling hair, and surveyed all the
place with her bright, glancing eyes, and then threw herself in the
armchair to make trial of it. Everything was complete, and of the
best and softest—armchair, bed, sofa—there was no fault to be
found. And she had been admitted to her uncle’s house at last, and
this was the beginning of luxury. Only she was glad that the closed
blinds shut out the valley, its lights and its blackness displeased her,
though she did not know why they should.
And yet—oh! was it not natural that she should wish to turn from
the wide-reaching blackness pierced by many points of light, now
that she was at last in the shelter she had longed for, far removed
from old hardships and wanderings? Every glance at the room told
of comfort and riches—and comfort and riches meant everything
else as well—they meant ease, safety, soft living, daintiness, rich
dresses, fine lovers, theatres, music, all the rest! All sorts of
possibilities were between her hands. It would be at length of some
use to be beautiful! The old life of shabbiness, hardships, shifts, and
recklessness might be cast on one side—it could be discarded now.
Who was that woman who had asked to see her brother, as they
started, and for the sake of whom James had left her with the
carriage, and had gone back into the yard, returning to her with a
face so dark and terrible that she had not dared even to speak to
him until they reached the town. It could not be that one, because
he had already seen her, and had come to some understanding with
her—so he said—but it might be some relation, indignant and
suspicious, some reptile who knew they were going and who wished
to have a bribe! James always made a pretence of being soft and
kind, but she did not believe he could be outwitted easily; in all that
she knew of his dealings, especially with women, she had found him
to be still more unscrupulous than herself. He had indulged himself
from his childhood onwards, and it is impossible to do so without
being unscrupulous. This most recent, most wretched entanglement
might have been easily avoided, if during their time of probation he
had possessed the slightest self-restraint.
Indeed the habitual recklessness of the brother and the sister had
never been more displayed than during those few months of village
life—that short time of waiting upon the pleasure of their uncle,
during which they had every inducement to be cautious and self-
restrained. Ah, bah! that was true, thought Tina; but those village
months were over, they had left that ‘detestable hamlet, that pest-
house of the Fens’—and now that they found themselves in the
midst of pleasures it would be more natural to be self-controlled. At
length they were really in the house of Mr Lee; it would not be easy
for them to be removed; every day would make it more difficult as
each day would make less anxious the dangers that their
imprudence had gathered round their feet. Mr Lee once charmed!
that was the whole brunt of the matter, and Tina had never been
without skill in charming men!
She rose to her feet, and stood upright, pretty Tina! her arms
clasped behind her back, and her face very slightly raised, whilst her
eyes appeared to be flooded with eager light and hope, in which
there was only the least trace of terror left. Upon the bed lay her
new black evening dress, her black silk slippers, and her great,
embroidered fan—her cheeks were so brilliant and burning that they
would need no touch of rouge, nor her dark eyes the slightest
assistance to make them bright enough. Was that the drawing-room
door? there were sounds of footsteps, voices!—how strange that the
least noise was enough to make her start! She would be quick, and
dress, and go downstairs for the evening, it would be better for her
brother to have her woman’s wit by his side. This evening once over,
this dear, nervous, terrible evening, their position would be more
certain, and they could feel secure.
So she thought, but whilst she hastened to get ready, and whilst
downstairs James Gillan sat by Mr Lee, and whilst he was making
apologies for the lateness of their arrival the door of the drawing-
room opened unexpectedly. It was the servant who entered, but
before she could make any explanation, she was preceded by an
intruder who had followed behind her unperceived—a poor woman,
poorly dressed, quiet, and shabby, who stood in the midst of the
room and courtseyed there. Mr Lee rose to receive her with
annoyance on his face; and behind him, unperceived by him, James
Gillan also rose—with a pang at his heart that smote, that stabbed
his breath, and for the moment took away the power of speech. The
sword had fallen!—he felt that it had fallen—he had not time to
consider how ruin might be averted even then.
CHAPTER XXXII
IN THE DRAWING-ROOM OF MR LEE
‘IF you please, sir,’ said Jenny, and, as she spoke, she courtseyed
again, ‘if it’s so as ye are Mr Lee I have come to speak with ye. I’ve
been speakin’ to this gentleman as they say is your nephy, an’ he
won’t listen to me nor make answer to what I say. But I’ve followed
him to the town, so as I may see him in your presence, and tell
before ye all I’ve to say to him.’
There was silence. The hearts of both men—even of the uncle—
must have been beating quickly, for both were panting, and did not
reply. Jenny stood in the midst of the room, very pale, and perfectly
quiet, but with a self-possession that would have been impossible in
her shrinking girlhood—the self-possession that comes with years
and trials. Her dress showed signs of her long walk, but it could not
conceal that her figure was slight; and her close black bonnet was
no unfitting setting for her Madonna-like, worn, troubled face. For
years and wretchedness had left her still a lovely woman, and it is
possible that Mr Lee may have been aware of it. He did not speak;
he had flung himself back in his arm-chair, and, with his chin upon
his clenched hand kept his harsh face turned to her. Through the
moments that followed the most intense silence reigned; but Jenny
was gathering her strength, and after a while she spoke again.
‘It’s a few months ago, sir,’ she said, still addressing Mr Lee, ‘it
was just before harvest time that my daughter Annie, my only
daughter, went away from her home one night. And then, on the
next night, very late, almost on to mornin’, she was lyin’ on my door-
step as if she’d not no strength to move. And I took her in, an’ she’d
not tell me what had chanced. But on one of her fingers there was a
wedding-ring. And the neighbours they talked; they said strange
things of her an’ me. But I couldn’t get her to confess, although I
tried ever so. It was only to-night, sir, as I’ve been given cause to
know who the man might be as took my child from her home.’
After another minute, ‘It’s perhaps I wouldn’t have courage to
come to your house, sir, an’ say these things to you, if your niece
and nephy had left one o’ my two children to stay in my home an’
comfort me for the t’ other one. But your niece she got hold o’ my
boy—I didn’t know that till to-night—an’ she’s got him to give her a
letter as you wrote to t’ Squire. An’ t’ Squire’s sent for him. An’ they
say he’ll be disgraced. He’s my only son, sir, the only one I have. The
father’s a bad one, an’ has been a bad husband; an’ t’ boy an’ t’ girl
are all that I have left.’
Again after a pause; ‘I’ve been speakin’ to your nephy. An’ he
pushed me agen t’ wall. Ye may see t’ bruise upon my face. An’ he
said he’d kill me. But I don’t care for that. I’d be killed a hunderd
times over to save t’ girl an’ boy. He ought to tell me if he’s t’
husband of my daughter. An’ he oughter do something to save t’ boy
from harm. I’ve come to ye, sir, as I may speak to him before ye. He
can’t hurt ye so easy, sir, as he hurts me.’
Her low voice appeared to thrill through the room, in which the
most breathless, the most intense silence reigned. Jenny had used
all her strength in order to get through her speech, as one who upon
his last venture pours all the wealth he has. But she was upright still,
and composed, though very pallid, and through her pale lips her
breath came quietly. The servant was gone, although the door stood
open, and in the room were only the two men she had addressed;
Mr Lee, who sat in his armchair with his face turned away; and
James Gillan, with rigid features, fixed lips, and glaring eyes. He
seemed to have been swept from his usual self-possession, appalled
by this spectre which stood in front of him; and now through the
silence there came words stern and terrible as the formal questions
that precede the uttering of doom. It was Mr Lee who spoke, but he
did not rise from his seat, and even as he spoke he kept his face
turned away.
‘Do you know this woman?’
The question had been asked, and as it compelled an answer the
unhappy young man made some stammering reply—he faltered that
on the woman’s own showing he was a stranger to her; and that it
was hard to be obliged to reply to the lies a stranger told. His
answer was immediately succeeded by a question, more stern, more
relentless even than the first.
‘You have not known this woman. I will take your word for it.
Have you been also a stranger to this woman’s daughter?’
If James Gillan had been allowed a minute, a few moments, in
which to make up his mind whether to lie or tell the truth, his skill in
deception, always greater than his courage, might have risen to the
occasion even then. Appalled as he was, overwhelmed by this
unexpected accusation, he could not decide immediately what
course would be best; and, having opened his mouth as if he were
forming some reply, he let it drop helplessly, and remained without a
word. Mr Lee went on speaking as if he had received an answer;
perhaps he thought that the silence might be accounted a reply.
‘And since we’re in the midst of discussions, Nephy Gillan, what is
this tale of a letter that we’ve heard?’ He spoke the words sternly,
but they came as a relief. His nephew seized on the diversion
eagerly.
‘Oh, that! .... I don’t know .... it may have been some mischief of
my sister’s .... my sister is a wild girl and is sometimes fond of tricks
.... I will answer for it, sir, that there is nothing serious in the matter
as in this other accusation that has reference to myself .... In any
case, my sister will be able to reply, if she were here now I have no
doubt she would answer you.’
He had scarcely spoken when the door, which had been left partly
open, was suddenly flung forwards as far as it would go; and Tina,
who had been standing at the entrance with the housekeeper,
appeared at the threshold, and swept into the room. Her rich black
silk dress rustled after her as she advanced; she seemed to be
beside herself with rage, or fear, or shame; she advanced at once on
her brother and on Jenny, as if with her little hands she would seize
them both. But Mr Lee interposed with the manner of the master of
a house, and laying a hand on her arm, turned her round to him. His
manner, his voice, were very quiet and stern, as those of one who is
in no doubt what to say.
‘My niece,’ he said, ‘ye will go back to your room. I haven’t the
time to speak to ye just now. My housekeeper, I see, has been
listening at the door, and I’ve not the least doubt she’ll show the
way to ye. You, sir, I will trouble ye to come with me to my study
that I may confer with ye on these matters that we’ve heard.
Madam, I must ask ye to wait here a few minutes, before very long
I’ll come to ye again.’
With a hand on the arm of each, and a manner not to be
disputed, he turned with his niece and nephew from the room—
Jenny following them with her eyes, but remaining perfectly passive,
standing there in her worn, black dress like some image of despair.
Outside the door he released the arm of Tina, and paused to lock
the door, and then to take out the key; and then, without paying any
further attention to his niece, he turned to the young man, and
addressed a few words to him.
‘I must ask you, sir, to come with me to my study, that I may
confer with ye on these matters. I can’t make no decision that I can
tell ye, till ye’ve said your say, and I’ve heard ye to the end!’
CHAPTER XXXIII
ANNIE SEES A CATASTROPHE
THE words which rang in Annie’s ears were heard also by her
brother, who stood almost unrecognised amidst the crowd of men,
bewildered, gasping, scarcely knowing where he was, or that all was
not some confusion of a dream. The terrible sight of the body taken
from the river which had encountered him as soon as he reached the
town, the more terrible recognition of its face, the realisation of a
death that had nearly been his own—these things were
overwhelming enough without the appearance of his sister,
inexplicable as that was, unlooked for by any one, and yet affording,
to other eyes besides his own, a clue that might serve to unravel a
tragedy. He wished to help her, but he could not move his limbs, he
appeared to be rooted to the ground on which he stood; but strong
arms were round her, and the workmen who supported her seemed
disposed to treat her with pity and tenderness. He saw her carried
past him, pallid as a corpse, with the lamplight on her white face
and streaming hair. He heard them say she was ‘only in a
swounding; that in a little while she would be right again.’ And
then, when he would have followed her he found that he could not
stir; he could only watch, as if fascinated, all the preparations that
surrounded one who would not wake and be ‘right.’ There were
doctors present who had been summoned hastily; there were
workmen eager to be relating all they knew; he could hear their
voices, and the sound of women’s murmurs, and the tale that the
better informed poured out upon the rest—this tale of the man who
had been his sister’s lover, who was the brother of one whom he had
loved. They said he had been drinking in a public-house like a
madman, that he had risen suddenly and rushed out into the night,
and that some, following him, had heard a sound in the water, and
hastened, terrified, to the river’s edge. The catastrophe might have
been an accident—none could be sure that it was not—they could
only say that in the darkness it had been impossible to discover him
at first, and that, when he was found and dragged up from the river,
the light on his face showed at once that he was dead. The doctors
talked of some injury which his head had received, but the time he
had been in the water was long enough to account for death—and
Nat realised, with feelings which cannot be described, that another
had gained the fate he had desired. For an instant he saw the dead
form on a shutter, and then, in its turn, it was carried past him and
away. And then, as the crowd of people hastened after it, he knew
that Tina Gillan was standing by his side. He had felt her touch
on his arm, and recognised it; and, as he turned his head, he saw
her face.
She was strangely attired, in a black silk evening dress, with
necklace and bracelets upon her neck and arms, and over these
things a black cloak lined with fur, which hung loose except where it
was fastened at her throat; whilst an old black hat had been flung
upon her hair, which was elaborately arranged, and glistening with
pins of golden filigree. It did not seem strange to Nat that he should
find her at his side—he was too much bewildered to be surprised
that night—nor, considering the sight on which she had been
looking, could he be amazed at the expression of her face—her eyes
wide and wild, her cheeks and forehead twitching, whilst her limbs
shook so that she could scarcely keep upon her feet. She clung to
his arm, and kept muttering to him to ‘take her away from the river,
to take her away from it,’ and, himself in such a condition that he
was scarcely able to obey her, he half clung to her, half supported
her to the streets. At the bridge he stood still, but fresh restlessness
seized on her, and her low voice began muttering in his ear again.
‘Take me away from the river. I cannot bear to see it. I am going
mad. Take me away from it.’
Yielding to her impulse, he went with her down a street, not
knowing where to take her, or where to go himself, save that she
kept muttering that he was to ‘take her from the water,’ and that the
horror of the water seemed to accompany them—the river with its
darkness, and streams of quivering light, its black foundry arch, and
dark, strange swarm of men. He paused at length, however, in a
dimly-lighted street, and attempted to gather his strength and speak
to her; his voice sounded hoarse and horrible to himself, he had
never imagined it could have such a sound. But, although he was
almost unnerved by the tightening clutch of her fingers, he was able
at least to say a few words audibly. ‘Tell me what I am to do, Miss
Tina, tell me what I am to do. I will take you wherever you like.
Where must I go.’
Tina only muttered, ‘Take me away from the river-side. I cannot
bear it. Take me right away from it.’
He saw that she was not in a condition to be still, and moving
again, went with her down the street, the horrible throbbings of his
heart and limbs becoming in some degree less overpowering as he
moved. The street was dimly lighted; there were not many people;
no one seemed to pay any attention to them. They crossed it, and
turned into another that was smaller, darker, with a long dark line of
wall on one side of it; it was close to the railway, and he could hear
the rush of some distant train going onwards through the night. He
made for the wall, scarcely knowing why he did so, and leant against
it, whilst she clung by his side. It was dark there, and silent, and no
light shone upon them; the street was deserted, there were no
passers-by.
‘Well, are you satisfied?’ cried Tina, springing from him, and yet
clutching the front of his jacket with her hands. ‘You have killed my
brother. I have seen it. He is dead. Are you satisfied now? Have you
had your will with us?’
He could feel the clutch of her fingers on his jacket, as he had
been feeling their grasp upon his arm; the thrill seemed to stir him
from his head to his feet, and to take away from him all power to
answer her. But she wished for no answer, her voice went on
speaking rapidly, its wild tone quivering like a cry that is suppressed.
‘Do you know what has happened to me?’ she said quickly, with a
laugh. ‘I’ve been turned off this evening from my uncle’s house.
Dismissed like a beggar! He would not even see me. He says I may
go to London, and amuse myself there again. Ha! ha! I’ll shame
him,’ cried Tina, as she ground her teeth together. ‘I’ll let no one
forget that I am his sister’s child.’
Her terrible passion, her wild eyes, grinding teeth, would have
been dreadful enough under any circumstances—they were
unspeakably horrible with her brother’s death so recent, uttered with
such vehemence in the dark, silent night. Nat tried to speak, but his
faltered words, ‘Miss Tina,’ were swept away almost before he had
uttered them. And still she kept clinging and clutching at his jacket,
as if but for its support she would have fallen on the ground.
‘Ha! ha! I’ll shame him, see if I don’t,’ cried Tina. ‘I’ll do harm to
him, and I’ll do injury to you! It was your mother came to the house
this evening, and was clever enough to bring us all to ruin. You
haven’t spared me. You have told about the letter. I couldn’t expect
that you would be good to me. I’ll hurt you. I will. You have brought
us to destruction. My brother is dead .... he is dead .... and you shall
die!’
‘Miss Tina,’ cried Nat, and his breath was lost in sobs. That
seemed to startle her; for a moment she was quiet. Seizing on that
instant, he wrestled with his agitation so as just to be able to speak
—he could do no more than that.
‘Before God, Miss Tina, I’ve done no harm to thee. I’ve not said a
word o’ ye, not to t’ Squire. If my mother knew anything as she’ve
told to your uncle, I don’t know who she knew it from—it’s not from
me. I’ve been beaten and shamed. I’ve been turned out from my
place. They say I’ve stole money. I don’t know the rights of it. I
went down to t’ river to-night to drown mysel’. There isn’t no hope in
all t’ world for me. But I can’t bear to see ye .... so alone .... so left
alone ....’ the sobs caught his breath, so that he could scarcely speak
.... ‘I’ve got three shillen .... if ye will take ’em from me ... it’ll be the
last thing as I can do for ye.’
He took out the money, and she took it in her hand, and then let
it drop through her fingers to the ground. The clink of the money
sounded strange in the night. They did not speak to each other.
They scarcely seemed to breathe. And then, with a passionate
movement, she threw her arms round him, and broke out into
weeping, with her head upon his breast.
‘Poor Nat!’ she cried out to him, ‘Nat, Nat—poor Nat!—and so you
would be giving your last poor coins to me. I don’t want them, dear.
I can get work to do in London. I won’t do more hurt to you, who
are the only friend I have. Nat, I will confess to you. I opened the
Squire’s letter, although I knew it was wrong—I did, I did!—And the
bank note dropped out, and I never noticed it, until I had fastened
the letter and given it to you. I’m a wicked girl. I didn’t care if I did
you harm—I wanted to see what Mr Lee wrote of James and me ....
and now James is .... dead .... and I’m a wanderer again, and I must
go to London, and live by my singing there .... I must stay here to-
night .... though I know that James is dead .... I knew it from the
first .... he is dead .... oh, he is dead .... and then I will get away
from this place and the river—and you will never see me, or hear of
me again.’
After a while, still clinging to him, ‘I will write to the Squire, and
send him the note. It doesn’t hurt now if I do harm to myself, and if
I tell him the truth I hope it will do you good .... And you mustn’t
think hardly of me, poor, foolish .... though I have been naughty,
and have led you into wrong .... I must kiss your hand .... oh, I
cannot help my crying .... I want to tell you that you have been kind
to me .... Oh, don’t tremble so much, dear, I cannot bear to feel it
.... I have no other friend in the world .... good-bye, good-bye ....’
Blind, suffocated, almost past all consciousness, he felt that she
slipped from his arms, and then she was gone.
An hour later, in intensest midnight blackness, through which the
lights in the streets shone at intervals, Nat found his way through
the night-time, with faltering footsteps, as one scarce waked from a
dream. He must find his sister, his mother, and give them what help
he could; in time he might be able to think how to help himself. The
great bell had tolled, and now every bell was ringing .... he must get
back to the river .... he went on through the night.
CHAPTER XXXV
THE GENERAL CONFESSION AND THE CONCLUSION OF THE WHOLE
SO down into darkness sank that New Year’s Eve, with its half-
revealed story, its completed tragedy, leaving town and country
provided with surmises, and stirred with much talk, and a store of
opinions. The history of the nephew and niece of Mr Lee, their flight
in the darkness, the river-side tragedy, the appearance of the
wretched girl by the body of her lover, her story and that of her
brother, the conduct of Mr Lee to both—the tidings of all these
things spread far and wide, and made the talk of the whole of the
neighbourhood. There were thrilling statements about a secret
marriage, and a separation said to have taken place upon a
wedding-night; there was a story also about an opened letter, which,
in its turn, could cause excitement. The village of Warton was
naturally triumphant, because it knew the parties, and could give its
own opinions; it was only by degrees that its triumph became
mingled with a sense of dissatisfaction that was certainly natural.
For, although it was evident that there had been wrong-doers, it
appeared that all the wrong-doers would not meet with
punishment—there were some, on the contrary, who would even be
rewarded, as if they had behaved themselves like honest folk. Poor
village! it is hard when tales have not a moral, and where Nemesis
does not attend where she is due—although we may always console
ourselves by reflecting that the stones of vengeance grind after
secret laws, and that it is probable that by some means or other all
wrong-doers do arrive at punishment. We would be more contented,
no doubt, if we saw that sight visibly; our sense of justice is not
satisfied with less; but then, in this world where so much is always
hidden, we must take the actions of vengeance, as we take other
things, on trust. With these few words, offered humbly, as an excuse
for the good fortune that fell to the share of some culprits we have
known, let us leave the village to virtue and indignation, and visit
those culprits for the last time in their home. That home had been
saved from destruction—it had reason to be thankful—but we will
not be certain that it was triumphant. For, although it is doubtless a
good thing to be rescued from a battle, there are pale ghosts that
wait even on our victories.
* * * * *
On the last night of the May of that year whose commencement
we have seen, Nat and Annie were sitting together in their home—in
the yellow-raftered room which had echoed to the clamour of the
Rantan less than a year before. It is true that Annie ought not to
have been sitting up so late, but Nat was with her, and in a few
hours he was going away, and some silent impulse on one side and
on the other, made the brother and sister desire to spend that
evening side by side. Annie also was leaving; she had no excuse for
remaining now; she had only asked to be allowed to remain in her
old home until her child was born.
They sat together silently; the lamp was on the table; now and
then the young mother rocked the cradle with her foot. It was
perhaps the same impulse which made them wish to be together
that held their lips, and kept them quiet, although side by side. For it
was impossible that old memories should not be stirred to-night,
connected with others as well as with themselves. The next day,
which would witness the departure of Nat for new employment,
would be the wedding-day of Alice Robson and of Tim.
‘They’ll have a fine day,’ said Annie, very softly—she had not
spoken on the subject before, but she knew she would be
understood—these were the first words that had passed between
the brother and sister since their mother had left them and they had
been alone. ‘I’m glad to think so, they’ve been so good and kind,
such kind friends to us, though it will be different now. Tim came to
see me last night. I was very glad to see him. He thought me
altered, I know, for he looked so hard at me.’
Nat did not answer—it may be that he remembered why, on his
part, he could not go to see the bride; it must have been shame that
brought the colour to his face, for he had been pale and heavy-eyed
before. But the feeling that his sister had been communicative,
although she had always previously been more than reserved to him,
stirred him with a sense of answering sympathy. He spoke with an
effort, he had not spoken much that evening since he had come
back from his visit to the Squire. Both his mother and sister had
understood without difficulty why he should be silent with regard to
that experience.
‘I’ve seen t’ Squire, Annie,’ he said now, with an effort. ‘It’s been
very cutting. Ye know that I went to him? I’ve never seen him sin’
that last night o’ the year. He seems to be older, even in that little
time. He said he was glad Mr Lee had given me learning, that Mr Lee
had told him I should be a good business lad. And he wasn’t angry.
He talked as if he was sorry—as he’d been more hasty nor he should
ha’ been wi’ me. But I couldn’t answer him a bit, I was so afeard o’
crying—I think I’ve not felt so bad in all my life.’
Annie moved her chair in the least degree closer to him, whilst the
glance of her dark eyes rested on his face, her eyes which had
grown so large, and sad, and gentle, during all these months that
she had been an invalid. He understood the movement, and after a
while he went on speaking, with the manner of one who is relieved
to be able to speak.
‘It seems to make a differ—my going away to London, although
I’ve not been much at home all these months. I was so close at
Lindum, an’ I could think of home, even when I was at office-work
or classes, or the rest. It won’t be the same when I’m at
Westminster, in that big place o’ business where there’s so much to
do—now that t’ home ’ll be gone, an’ mother’s weak an’ poorly, an’
ye’ll be livin’ wi’ her an’ Mr Lee. It’s cut me a deal too, to be thinkin’
about father—they say he’s real silly sin’ his illness, an’ll not be
himsel’ again—he’ll have to be allays in some kind o’ keepin’,
although they don’t think as he’ll be dangerous. I’m thinkin’—I’m his
son—I felt desperate last winter—it wouldn’t ha’ ta’en much to make
me drink like him. It makes me afraid to go away to London—afraid
like and sorry when I think what last year has been.’
‘Nat,’ said Annie suddenly, ‘I mind me of a day when Alice took me
to be with her at a class—it’s been on my mind sin’, the confessin’
an’ t’ prayin’, an’ then t’ hymn-singin’ an’ all t’ rest of it. You an’ me’s
both sorry .... I think that we are sorry .... shall we kneel down
together an’ say a prayer to-night?’
‘I’d like to,’ he answered, readily enough, ‘only I don’t understan’
what sort o’ prayer to say. We can’t make up prayers like as t’
preachers do. An’ t’ prayer-books is all together at t’ church. There’s
the General Confession,’ he added, as a new idea struck him; ‘we’ve
heard that often, I should think we remember it. It’s all about being
sorry, an’ doin’ better, an’ t’ like. I should think it’s possible that it
might do for us.’
‘Then we’ll have it,’ said Annie, agreeing readily, ‘we’ll kneel down
together side by side upon the rug. You may say the words first as if
you was t’ preacher, an’ I’ll be repeatin’ them as t’ people do. It’ll do
me good .... I’m sure I’ve been bad eno’ .... it’ll maybe make my
heart a bit lighter that’s such a weight to me.’
They arranged a chair, and knelt by it side by side, the brother
and sister, still so young in years, and yet with such evident traces of
recent trouble that their young faces had assumed an older look.
Nat’s features were already in the transition-time, and some of the
charm of his boyish grace was gone; but Annie was yet more lovely
than before, though her illness had left her pale and delicate; and
the black dress that hung so loosely on her figure set off the bright
hair which had not yet a widow’s cap. They knelt together with their
clasped hands almost touching, and after a pause of a minute Nat
began; the simple gravity of his boyish earnestness breathing as
with new meaning the familiar words:
‘Almighty and most merciful Father; we have erred, and strayed
from Thy ways like lost sheep. We have followed too much the
devices and desires of our own hearts. We have offended against
Thy holy laws....’
So far he proceeded, and then a great sob caught his breath, the
familiar words had become all too painful. Annie waited an instant to
see if he would recover; then her soft voice took up the words, and
he followed her:
‘We have left undone those things which we ought to have done;
And we have done those things which we ought not to have done;
and there is no health in us;’
‘But Thou, O Lord,’ proceeded Nat, to whom she left the
precedence, ‘have mercy upon us, miserable offenders. Spare Thou
them, O God, which confess their faults. Restore Thou them that are
penitent; According ... According ... Annie,’ cried out Nat, in the
greatest agitation, ‘I don’t remember how it goes! I don’t remember
how it goes!’
He remembered well enough, but he had become unnerved; and
in his emotion the familiar words were lost. Annie quieted him with a
touch upon his arm; and went on speaking as if there had not been
a pause.
‘According to Thy promises declared unto mankind in Christ Jesus
our Lord. And grant, O most merciful Father, for His sake; That we
may hereafter live a godly, righteous, and sober life, To the glory of
Thy holy Name. Amen.’
And Nat repeated after her, ‘Amen.’
For a minute they waited, and then rose up from their knees; and
Nat took his sister into a close embrace; it was not possible for
words to pass between them in that moment when their kisses met,
and each face was wet with tears. Then they separated; and,
moving quietly about the room, he began to put together some
things that he would need.
‘Nat,’ cried Annie, with a sudden impulse, ‘you shall be the baby’s
godfather.’
He stood still, looking at her, and she went on, speaking rapidly;
‘I’ll get some one in the village here to stand for you. An’ when you
come home .... you can tell me about t’ boy .... if I don’t bring him
up right you can let me know. Mr Lee’ll be the t’other, I daresay; but
that won’t be the same; I shall be glad to think as you will be near
the child!’
Was that like Annie, so proud and self-sufficient, so scornful of the
brother with whom she had shared her youth? Nat was very much
touched, so much moved he could not speak; he went to the baby
and kissed it, and then turned to her again. For a while he stood by
her, and held her in his arms—his grasp had already the strong clasp
of a man.
‘We’ll be better children,’ said Annie, as soon as she could speak.
‘An’ we’ll do better by mother as has been so good to us. The
doctor’s feared she won’t be so strong again; but we’ll try to do well
by her, we owe her that! Oh, I must be going; I am too tired
already; but I’m glad to have seen you this once, Nat, good-night.’
They kissed and separated; and the next day, in the morning, Nat
said farewell to his relations, and set off for the town; not again,
perhaps, to be brought so close to his sister as in the white heat of
penitence which for a while had made them one. Yet never in vain is
it for two human souls to be brought thus near together before the
throne of God; that evening must have remained as a sanctifying
influence in the minds and the lives of Annie and of Nat. They were
not soon to meet; he went to work in London; and Annie was to
share with her mother the home of Mr Lee.
That morning passed on, and before the strokes of noon the
whole air was full of the sound of wedding-bells. Alice Robson and
Tim Nicol had a bright day for their marriage; and many were the
friends who came to see the sight. Neither Jenny nor her daughter
were present at the wedding—there were reasons why their absence
was not astonishing; but they had sent their warmest good-will to
the bridegroom and the bride, and with that a tea-service; and they
received some wedding-cake. This marriage might not perhaps make
old friendship closer, but their friends had been faithful to them all
the same, and no tenderer memories cling about our days than
those of the friends who have stood near our distress. Such
faithfulness merits the best that earth can give, and even on earth it
gains a sure reward.