ENGLISHDragonCrochetPatternbyCraftyIntentions2019

Developed by Megan Lapp aka Crafty Intentions, this pattern is for a Dragon!!
It is recommended for intermediate skill

level or above. Gauge is not crucial to the pattern of the body, head, and limbs, as long as the stitches are tight enough to
hold the stuffing. However, gauge is important to the size of the wings in relation to the wire armature. A Dragon from
this pattern using worsted weight yarn is approximately 12 inches tall from head to toes, with 18 inches nose-to-tail, and 24
Inches from the tip of one wing to the other. This pattern is written in U.S. terminology. Have fun!
Page | 1
© 2019 Megan Lapp. All rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold, translated,
published, altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline. You can sell items made from this pattern, provided they are handmade by yourself in
a limited number and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following lines to your item description and any item you are selling: “This item is handmade by
(your name) from a design and pattern by Crafty Intentions”.
Table of Contents
Materials List: ....................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Glossary of Terms: ................................................................................................................................................................ 5
Foreword ............................................................................................................................................................................... 8
Dragon Head ......................................................................................................................................................................... 9
Dragon Body ....................................................................................................................................................................... 11
Dragon Front Legs .............................................................................................................................................................. 27
Dragon Back Legs: Rear Upper Leg for Sitting Position .................................................................................................... 31
Dragon Back Foot: Rear Lower Foot for Sitting Position ................................................................................................... 33
Dragon Back Leg: Rear Leg for Standing Position ............................................................................................................. 35
Optional: Spiral Horn .......................................................................................................................................................... 38
Optional: Long Cheek Frill ................................................................................................................................................. 39
Optional: Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow.................................................................................................................................. 40
Optional: Folded Ear ........................................................................................................................................................... 41
Optional: Fin Ear ................................................................................................................................................................. 42
Optional: Scales down the Back.......................................................................................................................................... 44
Optional: Belly .................................................................................................................................................................... 46
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1A ............................................................................................................................... 47
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1B................................................................................................................................ 49
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembling Part 1A and 1B ............................................................................................... 51
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 2 .................................................................................................................................. 52
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 3 .................................................................................................................................. 54
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembly ............................................................................................................................ 56
Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO ............................................................................................................................................. 58
Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO: Finishing............................................................................................................................ 62
Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE ....................................................................................................................... 66
Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE: Wire ............................................................................................................. 70
Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES ................................................................................................................. 72
Dragon: Finished Photos ..................................................................................................................................................... 77
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Head ............................................................................................................................................... 78
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Body ............................................................................................................................................... 79
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Front Legs ...................................................................................................................................... 83
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Legs: Rear Upper Leg for Sitting Position ........................................................................... 85
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Foot: Rear Lower Foot for Sitting Position .......................................................................... 86
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Leg: Rear Leg for Standing Position .................................................................................... 87
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Spiral Horn .................................................................................................................................. 88
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Long Cheek Frill ......................................................................................................................... 88
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow ......................................................................................................... 89
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Folded Ear ................................................................................................................................... 89
Page | 2
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Fin Ear ........................................................................................................................................ 90
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Scales down the Back ................................................................................................................. 91
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Belly ............................................................................................................................................ 92
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1A ....................................................................................................... 93
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1B ....................................................................................................... 94
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembling Part 1A and 1B....................................................................... 96
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 2 .......................................................................................................... 97
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 3 .......................................................................................................... 98
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembly ................................................................................................... 99
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO .................................................................................................................. 100
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO: Finishing ................................................................................................. 102
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE............................................................................................. 103
TEXT-ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE: Wire .................................................................................. 105
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES ....................................................................................... 105
Page | 3
Materials List:
Yarn: All yardage is approximate.
Body of the Dragon: 150g or 275 yards in medium weight yarn includes head, body, front and back legs
Spiral Horns: 4g or 8 yards in medium weight yarn
Long Cheek Frill: 2g or 4 yards in medium weight yarn
Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow: 2g or 4 yards in medium weight yarn
Folded Ear: 4g or 8 yards in medium weight yarn
Fin Ear: 6g or 12 yards in medium weight yarn
Scales down the back: 8g or 16 yards in medium weight yarn
Belly: 30g or 60 yards in medium weight yarn
Wings of the Dragon Style 1 or 2: 75g or 140 yards in medium weight yarn
One pair of safety eyes, for worsted weight, recommended 12-18 mm depending on your preference
Size G (4mm) and E (3.5mm) Hooks
Wire strong enough to support posing the dragon and supporting the wings. Recommend 6 pieces of 18 inch
18 gauge paper-wrapped wire (found in the faux floral arrangement section of any craft store, if this exact
wire cannot be found, please use 14-16 gauge wire (hanger wire works!) – err on the side of heavier wire)
Fiberfill Stuffing
Duct Tape
Darning Needle
Scissors
Optional: Four standard sized glass gems for the bottom of each foot
Page | 4
Glossary of Terms:
< or > Indicates the stitch will start (<) or finish (>) in the same stitch as the last stitch or
the next stitch.
<Dec> Beginning in the SAME stitch as your last stitch, make a decrease stitch into that
and the next stitch, then into the same stitch that the decrease stitch ends in, begin
your next stitch.
Go here for video demonstration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ni2ZM1cXJI4
2 Dec in 3 SC Decrease in the next two stitches, Begin another Decrease starting in the same stitch
as you last Decreased in, and the next stitch after that
BLO Back Loop Only
**Pro-Tip: The rows with FLO or BLO stitches will be structured with brackets [ ].
The brackets will enclose any and all stitches that the FLO or BLO instruction
should apply to. EG: FLO [SC 3], SC 3 would mean three single crochet stitches in
the FLO and then three normal SC.
BOLDED This means that this particular instruction falls at the Center Front of the piece you
STITCH (F) are working on
BOLDED This means that this particular instruction falls at the Center Back of the Piece you
STITCH (B) are working on
Bump Stitch (All worked into one stitch space)
1. YO, insert into next stitch, YO, pull up, YO, pull through 2 loops,
2. YO, insert into the same stitch, YO, pull up, YO, pull through 2 loops,
3. YO twice, insert into the same stitch, YO, pull up,
YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 2 loops,
4. YO twice, insert into the same stitch, YO, pull up,
YO, pull through 2 loops, YO, pull through 2 Loops,
7. YO, pull through all 7 loops
CH Chain
DC Double Crochet
DC Dec Double Crochet Decrease
YO, insert into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through 2 loops,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all three loops
Dec Decrease
One stitch combining two spaces. All decreases are single crochet decreases unless
otherwise stated
FLO Front Loop Only
**Pro-Tip: The rows with FLO or BLO stitches will be structured with brackets [ ].
Page | 5
The brackets will enclose any and all stitches that the FLO or BLO instruction
should apply to. EG: FLO [SC 3], SC 3 would mean three single crochet stitches in
the FLO and then three normal SC
Half Trip Half Triple Crochet
YO twice,
Insert into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all remaining loops
Half Trip Dec Half Triple Crochet Decrease
YO twice, insert into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all remaining loops
Half Trip Inc Two Half Trip stitches into the same stitch
HDC Half Double Crochet
Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, draw yarn through stitch, yarn over, draw yarn
through 3 loops on hook
HDC Dec Half Double Crochet Decrease
YO, pull up,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all four loops
HDC Triple Dec Half Double Crochet Triple Decrease – a HDC Dec worked over three stitches
YO, pull up,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull up,
YO, pull through all loops
Inc Increase, 2 stitches in one space.
Assume all Increases are SC increases, unless otherwise specified
Nostril Stitch Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook
SC Single Crochet
Sk St Skip Stitch
Sl St Slip Stitch
Sl St to beginning JOINING: Most of this pattern is written with a Slip Stitch, Chain 1 joining method
St, Ch 1 for each row. This DOES affect the shape of each piece, but in a minor way, as the
piece was written with the seam shift in mind. If you prefer to crochet in spiral/in
the round you are welcome to try it but I do not guarantee that all asymmetrical
sections will come out exactly as shown.
Page | 6
Go here for video demonstration:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqu5N7TCt3U
St Stitch
Triple Dec/ Triple Single Crochet Decrease
Triple SC Dec One stitch combining three spaces using single crochet.
(Insert in next stitch space, YO, pull up) x 3,
YO, pull through all four loops
Triple Crochet Triple Crochet
YO twice, Insert into next stitch,
YO, pull up,
YO Yarn Over
Page | 7
Foreword
This Pattern is Dedicated to Harper.
For Community Support, Questions, or to share photos of Works in Progress of Finished Objects, Go Here:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/CraftyIntentionsCommunity/
For More information about Crafty Intentions, Go Here: www.craftyintentions.net
For More Add-On Patterns for the Dragon:

Extra Ornamentation: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/add-on-dragon-extra-ornamentation
This Add-on Pattern includes instruction for a head plate, a fancy head plate, a long droopy ear, a
curly eye piece, a three color back-spikes, a large spiral curved horn with accent color and a spiral
shaped horn!
More Front Legs: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/add-on-dragon-more-front-legs

This Add-on Pattern includes instruction for laying down folded front legs, Perched-Raised front
legs and step-by-step instructions on how to wear your dragon on your shoulder.
Epic Extra Large Wings: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/add-on-dragon-epic-extra-large-wings

This Add-on Pattern includes instructions for Epic-sized Extra Large Dragon Wings.
For related Video Tutorials from Crafty Intentions, Go Here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTPs8iCVBK1I65FxuMqLJ0Q
© 2019 Megan Lapp. All rights reserved.
This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced,
distributed or resold, translated, published, altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or
offline.
You can sell items made from this pattern, provided they are handmade by yourself in a limited number and
you give credit to the designer.
Please add the following lines to your item description and any item you are selling:
“This item is handmade by (your name) from a design and pattern by Crafty Intentions
Page | 8
Dragon Head
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 1
**Pro-tip: If you are using a gradient or color-change yarn and would like the body Stitch
of the dragon to seamlessly transition between colors from nose to tail tip, then you count
should proceed to the next section and make the dragon body first (which is formed
from the tail tip up to the neck of the dragon).
Once the Dragon Body is complete, come back to this section and make a Dragon
Head (which is formed from the nose to the base of the head). First, starting with the
yarn you just cut to fasten off the Dragon Body, measure out 13.5 yards of yarn (DO
NOT CUT), and then begin crocheting the head at that point in the length, and use it
up to the end of the yarn. This may be a little unwieldy to start crocheting from the
middle of piece of yarn, and crochet using the “tail” up, but it guarantees that you
work your way back along the yarn color gradient to the color that the Dragon Body
ended with at the neck.
The 13.5 yards of yarn is an approximate measure of yarn and may be affected by
weight of yarn, size of hook, and your particular tension. You may need to adjust
this to be slightly longer or shorter as necessary to blend in the color transition (This
is why you do not cut the yarn to start. You need to verify that the 13.5 yards is
enough to make the head by your hand). You do not need to allow for a long tail if
the tail of the neck of the Dragon Body is long enough to sew the Dragon Head to the
body.
1. SC x 6 in Magic Circle, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [6]
2. (SC, Inc) x 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [9]
3. SC 4, Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 2, Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 3, Sl [9]
St to beginning St, Ch 1
**Pro-Tip: These [Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook] instructions create nostrils. In

the following row, ignore the nostrils, do not stitch into them. They are not
counted in the stitch count.
4. (SC 2, Inc) x 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
Page | 9
© 2019 Megan Lapp. All rights reserved. This pattern is FOR PERSONAL USE ONLY. The pattern (or parts of it) may not be reproduced, distributed or resold,
translated, published, altered, shared or posted (for sale or free) over the internet or offline. You can sell items made from this pattern, provided they are handmade
by yourself in a limited number and you give credit to the designer. Please add the following lines to your item description and any item you are selling: “This item is
handmade by (your name) from a design and pattern by Crafty Intentions”.
5. SC 12 around, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
9. SC 3, Inc (SC 6, Inc) x 2, SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
11. SC 27, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [27]
14. (SC 7, Dec) x 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
Insert the safety eyes between rows 9 & 10 or between Rows 10 & 11, count 9 full
spaces between them.
They should be placed in alignment with the nostrils as created in Row 3
**Pro-Tip: Once attached, you need to sculpt the head to make the sides flatter.
If the safety eyes have holes in the posts, you can use some extra yarn to stitch
through the holes in the ends of the safety eye posts and tie them together as
tightly as possible as seen in the pictures above. If the safety eyes DO NOT have
holes in the posts, you can trim the posts after placing the eyes, and then follow
the directions below.
If the safety eyes you are using do not have holes in the back of the post, please use
the following technique AFTER Row 18: Shape the head after you’ve placed the
eyes and stuffed the head and fastened off the yarn. You can even do this step after
attaching the head to the body of the dragon. Using the body color yarn, stitch back
and forth from the left side through the head to the right side, while moving the insert
stitches around the eye – as though each eye were a clock, and you are stitching to hit
each hour (follow the yellow dashes). Gently pull the stitches tight to shape the head
Page | 10
to be a little thinner and flatter around the eyes which creates the same effect as tying
the eye posts together.
15. (SC 4, Dec) x 4, Sl St to beginning St, Ch 1 [20]

18. Dec x 6, Sl St to beginning St [6]
Fasten off with 12” yarn tail. No need to weave in as you can hide it in the neck when
you sew the head to the body.
Dragon Body
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 1
Pro-Tip: In Rows 5, 10, 16, 23, 31, and 40, you can stagger the exact location of Stitch
the increase within the row if you are at all bothered by their alignment in the count
dragon tail. For example: In Row 10 instead of Inc, SC 4, you could do SC 2,
Inc, SC 2
1. SC 4 in Magic Circle, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [4]
2. – 4. (3 Rounds of) SC 4, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [4]
5. Inc, SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [5]
Page | 11
50. SC 2, Inc, SC 4, Inc, SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

54. (Inc, SC 5) x 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
68. SC 2, Inc, (SC 4, Inc) x 3, SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
Begin stuffing the dragon tail/body – Insert stuffing to about 6-8 inches away from
the tip of the tail, it is not necessary to stuff all the way down to the tail tip. Make
sure that the beginning of the stuffing doesn’t visibly change the shape of the tail.
82. (SC 3, Dec) x 2, SC 15 (orient the spine wire to the center of these 15 SC), Dec, SC [28]
3, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1
Insert the wire(s) into the dragon body pushing it all the way into the tip of the tail (it
helps to spin the wire as you insert it). Center the wire(s) with the 15 SC. The wire
functions as the dragon's spine.
Use wire(s) approximately 24 inches long and strong enough support posing the
body.
Page | 12
18 inch long, 18 gauge, paper wrapped wire is recommended. For a secure
connection, overlap the first 6 inches and wrap together using a .5 inch wide, 2 ft.
long strip of duct tape. Begin wrapping from the center of the wires to one inch
above the overlap
You can also choose not to use wire at all, if this Dragon is for a small child. The
entire Dragon can still look the same as example photos, but you will need to be
more deliberate about soft-sculpting it as you go, and you may want to stuff the tail
lightly so that it is softer and does not stick straight out.

84. Dec, SC 2, Dec, SC 16, Dec, SC 2, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
91. Dec, SC 15, Inc x 2, SC 15, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [36]
92. SC 17, Inc x 2, SC 17, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [38]
93. Dec, (SC 6, Inc) x 4, SC 6, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [40]
94. Dec, SC 11, Inc, SC 12, Inc, SC 11, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [40]
Page | 13
**Note: Beginning in Row 96 the end number in brackets for row total is the
outermost (or top most) stitch count, not the cumulative number of stitches made in
the row instructions.
The “… Ch 1, Turn… Ch 1, Turn….” structure of a Rows 96 and onward are to

create a built-up wall at the front of the chest, and then later building up the back of
the neck. Here is how it looks as you build up stitches:
For video demonstration go here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh5T-idiwm8
96. **Note: From here on, crochet in Spiral. Crochet the first stitch of the next
round into the next available stitch, do not slip stitch, Ch 1
A. Dec x 2, SC 15, Inc, SC 27, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 6, Dec, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 14
C. SC 13
[38]
97. Start this row with the first stitch into the next available SC stitch.
See photos for clarity:
(Last Stitch of Row 96) (First Stitch of Row 97)

A. SC 10, Inc, SC 17, Dec x 3, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 15, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 15
C. SC 5, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 5 [34]
98. A. SC 11, Inc, SC 13, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 5, Dec x 2, SC 5 [31]
Page | 16
99. A. SC 9, Inc, SC 13, Dec x 2, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 6, Dec x 2, SC 6 [28]
Page | 17
C. SC 4, Dec x 2, SC 4 [25]
Page | 18
C. SC 3, Dec x 2, SC 3 [22]
C. SC 3, Dec x 2, SC 3
[19]
Page | 19
103. SC 19 [19]
104. A. SC 4, Inc, SC 13, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 20
105. SC 5, Inc, SC 8, Dec, SC 2 [18]
106. SC, Dec, SC 5, Dec, SC 4, Inc, SC 3 [17]
107. SC 5, Dec, SC 7, Inc, SC 2 [17]
108. SC 4, Dec x 2, SC 6, Inc, SC 2 [16]
Page | 21
109. A. SC 2, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 10, Inc, SC 3 [15]
110. A. Dec, SC, Dec, SC, Dec, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 22
B. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 8, Inc, SC 3
[13]
111. SC 2, Dec, SC 5, Inc, SC 3 [13]
112. A. SC 2, Dec, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 23
B. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 8, Inc, SC 3
[13]
**NOTE: The following Row (113) is optional

113. A. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 6
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to use to sew the head to the body, and soft-sculpt the
head
Page | 24
**Note: The photos below are depicted without the optional Row 113
Compare the wire extending beyond the neck of the body to the head (back of the head to nose tip). Trim
the wire so that it will be a couple of centimeters shorter than the length of the head.
**Pro-Tip: If you are making the perched leg add-on dragon, do not trim the wire!
Insert the body wire into the head just above the center hole at the back of the head.
Slide the wire in along the top of the head, just under the surface of yarn, towards the nose. Once the head
is fully on the body-wire, use the tail of yarn from the end of the neck to whip stitch the head in place and
use tiny stitches to make the seam disappear. Make sure it is VERY secure. Bend and shape the head and
neck into the desired arc/shape.
Page | 25
If you made the optional Row 113, which creates a tab to cover the hole at the back of the head, stretch and
pin the tab towards the forehead of the dragon. Stitch securely in place.
**TIP** I prefer to make and attach all the legs next, and then do the belly after that. It is challenging to sew
the belly on after the limbs are attached, but it guarantees that the belly is centered and evenly placed in
relation to the limbs if it is sewn on after the limbs. Others prefer to sew the belly on first because it is easier
to attach without the limbs. Others prefer to skip the belly piece all together. Proceed to your preference.
For Video Demonstration of Pinning in Place Go Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXcIcw2viO4
For Video Demonstration of Sewing to Attach Go Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MaLj7IPvU8
Page | 26
Dragon Front Legs
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
The bolded instructions below are oriented at the center of the front or back of the Stitch
leg. If they are noticeably off-center, shift the row (and all later rows) by one stitch. count
Shift is influenced by fiber and tension, it varies from artist to artist.
For example, on Row 6, if the Dec is not at the front-center of the leg, you can shift
one stitch by making it Inc, SC 4, Dec, SC 3
2. Inc x 6, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
3. SC 4, Bump, SC, Bump, SC, Bump, SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
**Pro-Tip: The “Bump” stitch in this row is defined in the Glossary at the
beginning of the pattern
4. Inc, SC 5, Dec, SC 4, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

5. SC, Inc, SC 2, Dec, SC, Dec, SC, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [10]
6. SC, Inc (B), SC 4, Dec (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [10]
**Optional: Insert the glass gem into the foot. The flat side of the gem should be
oriented down, the curved side should be oriented up.
Page | 27
** Optional: at this point you can choose to insert a wire and a glass gem (or wait
until the leg is fully formed). The purpose of the wire is to; stabilize the leg,
strengthen the leg and allow it to be positionable. Please note, the photos steps 1-5
below are an example of what to do with the wire only, the leg shape is from the
Juvenile Dragon pattern.
1. 2. 3. 4.
. .
5.
.
Take a wire and bend the end into a circle the same size as the base of the foot.
Bend the circle at a 90 degree angle from the wire. Insert the wire circle into the
bottom of the foot. (If you want to also use a glass gem, insert that now so that it sits
on top of the wire circle – it may be a tight squeeze, but it should work.)
Trim the wire so that it is slightly longer than the opening of the top of the leg, bend
it and push the end through the side of the leg that will be against the body of the
dragon. This little bit of wire inserted directly into the body of the dragon will help
to stabilize and strengthen the entire leg and connection. Again, this step is
completely optional.
7. SC 2, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC, Dec (F), Inc, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

8. SC 2, Dec (B), SC 5, Inc, SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
11. SC 5, HDC 6, SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
12. SC 9, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [13]
13. SC 3, Inc (B), SC 9, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
Page | 28
18. SC 6, Inc (B), SC 8, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [20]
19. SC 5, Dec, Dec, SC 8, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [19]

20. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 8, Inc (F), SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [19]
25. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 12, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [18]
26. SC 15, Dec (F), SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [17]
27. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 7, Triple SC Dec (F), Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
Left Side of Leg Right Side of Leg Demonstration of stuffing: Side & Front OPTIONAL: Crochet the top to close
28. Stuff the leg (dense stuffing in the foot and bottom ¾ of the leg, much softer towards
the top of the leg)
Fold the remaining hole in half,
OPTIONAL: (Ch 1, Dec, SC 3, Dec) through both sides of the leg hole to close it.
Page | 29
Cut with ≈18 inch yarn tail, pin in place and use the yarn tail to sew leg in place
To attach to the body, pin in place with both front legs and both back legs before
stitching on. It is important to make sure that all four feet are level with each other to
ensure that the dragon sits with stability. Once you’ve verified that all four legs/feet
are even and positioned correctly (see photos), sew into place. Sew at every edge of
the leg that sits against the body. Stitch it tightly against the body, sculpting it into
the exact position you want. Use small, neat stitches. If you do this correctly, the
attachment will look seamless.
Front Leg pinned in place: side & front view
Finished Dragon, front legs sewn on.

For video demonstration of pinning in place, go here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXcIcw2viO4
For video demonstration of sewing to attach, go here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MaLj7IPvU8
Page | 30
Dragon Back Legs: Rear Upper Leg for Sitting Position
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
**NOTE: Crochet this in Spiral, do NOT use (Slip Stich, Ch 1) to finish each Stitch
row count
1. Ch 6, SC 2 in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in each of the next 3 Ch stitches, Inc x 2 in last [14]
Ch Stitch, keep crocheting around to the other side of the row of Ch stitches, SC in
each of the next 3 Ch stitches opposite the first three SC stitches, 2 SC in last stitch
(same stitch as the first 2 SC)
2. SC 3, Inc, SC 6, Inc, SC 3 [16]

3. (SC 3, Inc) x 4 [20]
4. SC 2, Inc, (SC 4, Inc) x 3, SC 2 [24]
5. SC 24 [24]
6. (SC 5, Inc) x 4 [28]
7. SC 28 [28]
8. SC 3, Inc, (SC 6, Inc) x 3, SC 3 [32]
9. SC 32 [32]
10. SC 32 [32]
11. SC 32 [32]
12. (SC 6, Dec) x 4 [28]
13. SC 28 [28]
14. (SC 5, Dec) x 4 [24]
15. SC 24 [24]
16. (SC 4, Dec) x 4 [20]
17. (SC 3, Dec) x 4 [16]
18. (SC 2, Dec) x 4 [12]
**Note: Stuff the piece half-full of Fiberfill. The stuffing needs to be even
throughout the piece, but do not stuff it firmly (refer to middle picture above)
Page | 31
19. (SC, Dec) x 4, slip stitch into next stitch [8]
**Pro-Tip: This is the top of the leg piece
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to sew shut, pin & sew leg in place
Page | 32
Dragon Back Foot: Rear Lower Foot for Sitting Position
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 7, Starting in 3rd Ch from hook, Bump, Ch 1, SC in next Ch stitch, Bump, Ch 1, [5]
SC, Bump, Ch 1
**Pro-Tip: The “Bump” stitch is defined in the Glossary at the beginning of the
pattern.
Page | 33
Re-orient your work so that you are crocheting around the edge of those bump
stitches.
**Pro-Tip: You can force the “Bump” part of the Bump Stitch to bump
outwards in the correct orientation by poking/pressing it with your finger.
The first photo above shows how to reorient your work so that the bumps are
pointing down, and you are poised to crochet around their upper edge. The second
photo points out the location of each of the three bumps on the exact same photo.
The third photo points out the location of each of the following 12 SC around that
edge.
Pictured: Top of foot/toes

Pictured: Bottom of foot/toes

If you are using glass gems, insert one (or two) now, or stuff with polyfil.
Page | 34
The flat part of the gem should be oriented down towards the side of the toes that
look like they have small open holes see the photo in rows 3. – 4.
9. Fold the hole of the work in half, SC 4 across to close the hole [4]
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to pin & then sew in place
The back part of the foot should be 2-dimensionally flat.

The foot should be placed partially underneath the back leg piece, so only part of the foot and the toes stick
out from underneath the rounded upper part of the rear leg. The overlap, once sewn on should seem to
become all one piece if you use small, neat whip stitches. Sew it along every edge where the Back foot
touches the Back Leg piece.
After you are satisfied with the placement and balance of the Dragon, sew all limbs in place. I sew them in
place in the order they were crocheted (front limbs, back leg circles, back feet), I do this for stability and so
that I can guarantee that the back feet are exactly the same on both sides. It can be difficult to do this if you
sew the feet onto the Back Leg Circles first. Some people prefer to sew the back feet onto the back leg
circles first before attaching, please proceed to your preference. Weave in and trim ends. Move on to the
decorative pieces for the dragon next, then the wings last as it is easier to sew on the decorative pieces
before the wings are attached.
For video demonstration of pinning in place, go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXcIcw2viO4
For video demonstration of sewing to attach, go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MaLj7IPvU8
Dragon Back Leg: Rear Leg for Standing Position
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
**Pro-Tip: Use the same glass gem, wire, and stuffing instructions as for the Stitch
Standing Front Leg count
3. SC 4, Bump, SC, Bump, SC, Bump SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
Page | 35
7. SC 2, Inc (B), SC 4, Dec (F), SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [10]
9. SC 3, Inc (B), SC 4, Dec (F), Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [10]
11. SC 4, Inc (B), SC 4, Inc (F), Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
12. Inc, SC 5, Inc (B), SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
14. Inc (F), SC 5, Dec, Dec, SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
15. Inc (F), SC 6, Dec (B), SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
16. Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 4, Dec (B), SC 4, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [15]
17. SC, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 10, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [17]
26. SC 5, Dec (F), SC 8, Dec (B), SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [18]
28. SC 5, Dec (F), SC 6, Dec (B), SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
29. SC 5, Dec (F), SC 5, Dec (B), Sl St to beginning Stitch [12]
Stuff the leg (dense stuffing in the foot and bottom ¾ of the leg, much softer towards
the top of the leg
Page | 36
Fold the opening in half,
Cut with 18” yarn tail, pin in place, sew to dragon body
Page | 37
Optional: Spiral Horn
Tools:
Horn Color Yarn
‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. SC 4 in Magic Circle, continue in spiral in BLO [4]
2. Inc, SC 3 [5]
3. Inc, SC 4 [6]
4. Inc, SC 5 [7]
5. Inc, SC 6 [8]
6. Inc, SC 7 [9]
7. Inc, SC 8 [10]
8. Inc, SC 9 [11]
9. SC 11 [11]
Fasten off with 12” yarn tail, pin in place, and sew to the head of the dragon.
Stuffing is optional for this piece.
Page | 38
Optional: Long Cheek Frill
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in.
1. Ch 17, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook Sl St into next Ch Stitch
2. (SC, Ch 2, Sl St in last SC, SC in next Stitch) x 2
3. (SC, Ch 3, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, SC in next Ch Stitch) x 2
4. (SC, Ch 4, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, DC in next Ch Stitch, SC in next
Ch Stitch) x 2
5. Sl St in next 2 Ch Stitches
Fasten off yarn with 12” yarn tail, pin in place, sew to the head of the dragon.
Page | 39
Optional: Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tails to use to attach and weave in
1. Ch 10, Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook, Sl St in next Ch Stitch
2. 2 SC in same Stitch, Ch 2, Sl St into last SC
3. SC
4. SC & HDC in same stitch, Ch 2, Sl St into HDC
5. SC
7. 2 Sl St in last 2 Ch stitches
Fasten off yarn 12” yarn tail, pin in place, and sew to the head of the dragon
Page | 40
Optional: Folded Ear
Tools:
Body or Accent Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in Stitch
count
1. SC 6 in Magic Circle, Sl St to 1st SC, Ch 1 [6]
2. Inc x 6, Ch 1, Turn [12]
3. (SC, Inc) x 6, Ch 1, Turn [18]
4. Sl St in 2nd SC, (SC, Ch 2, Sl St in last SC, SC) x 7, Sl St 2
Alternative Row 4:
(SC 2, Inc) x 3, Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from Hook, (SC 2, Inc) x 3
Fasten off yarn with 12” yarn tail,
Fold the ear in half, pin to the head of the dragon, sew in place, and weave in ends.
Page | 41
Optional: Fin Ear
Tools:
Body and Accent Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
PART 1: Use contrasting color to body color

1. Ch 8, DC in 3rd Ch from hook, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Ch Stitch, Ch 1, Turn
2. SC in 1st Stitch around previous round’s Sl St, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Ch 2, Turn
3. DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Stitch, Ch 1, Turn

4. SC in 1st Stitch around Previous Round’s Sl St, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Ch 2, Turn
7. DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Stitch
Fasten off with 12” yarn tail
Page | 42
PART 2: Use Body Color Yarn
Attach body color at Point A
1. SC 6 along Edge X, Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, Sl
St back along Edge X to Point A, Ch 1
2. Dec in 1st and 2nd Open space on Edge Z,

Sl St along space between Row 2 & 3 of Fin Ear: Part 1
instructions,
Ch 2 at the end of Sl St, Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook,
Flip the work,
Sl St down same Line back to Edge Z, Ch 1
3. Dec on Edge Z, Sl St along space between Row 4 & 5 of

Fin Ear: Part 1 instructions,
Ch 2 at the end of Sl St,
Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook,
Flip the work,
Sl St down the same line back to Edge Z, Ch 1
4. Triple SC Dec on Edge Z, Ch 1, SC 6 down Edge Y,
Ch 2 at the end, Sl St into second Ch from hook,
Sl St back down Edge Y to Edge Z,

Pin in place, Sew in place. Weave in all tails. Trim
excess.
Page | 43
Optional: Scales down the Back
Tools:
Accent color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 1
Start with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in
**NOTE: This piece is extremely variable in length depending on the yarn you use, the hook
you use, and your particular tension. The dragon you have made will require custom-length
scales to reach from the forehead to the tail tip.
When you create this piece, DO NOT cut the yarn until you pin the scales in place to check to
make sure the length is correct.
If it is too short, rip out the stitches until you get back to Row 46 and add more rows to make it
your desired length.
If it is too long, rip out the stitches until you get to row 41 and then purposefully rip out rows
that will make it the desired length.
You will not know the final length of the scales until after you have slip stitched back along
the scales all the way to the beginning because the slip stitches change the length of the scale
line. The slip stitches reinforce and strengthen the scales, but they also shrink the length. The
following instructions should fit with all previous instructions/sizes, but adjust to the dragon
that you make, if necessary.
1. 3 Tight Ch Stitches
2. Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook
4. – 6. [3 Repeats of] Ch 4, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch
7. Ch 5, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, DC in next Ch Stitch
8. – 23. Repeat Row 7 [16 Times]
47. Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, Sl St all the way back along previous rows
**Pro-Tip: As you slip stitch back to the beginning across the base of all the scales you’ve
created, try to slip stitch once INSIDE each scale that only has one stitch (like Row 2 & 3
scales), slip stitch twice inside each scale that has two stitches (like Row 4 scales), slip stitch
three times inside each scale that has three stitches (like Row 7 Scales), and always slip stitch
once between each scale
Pin in place along the center of the back of the Dragon
Page | 44
CONFIRM IT IS THE CORRECT LENGTH
Once correct length is reached, fasten off with ≈3.5 foot long yarn tail, pin, and sew in place.
Page | 45
Optional: Belly
Tools:
Accent color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 1
**Pro-Tip: This piece is extremely variable in length depending on the yarn you use, the hook
you use, and your particular tension. Before you Fasten off, Pin in place to double check it is
the desirable length, aiming to end it at the base of the Tail. Add or subtract rows as needed.
1. Ch 5, Turn, Starting in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn
2. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn
3. – 5. (3 Rows of) BLO [SC 4], Ch 1, Turn, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn
6. BLO [SC 4], Ch 1, Turn
7. SC, Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
8. – 13. (6 Rows of) BLO[SC 5], Ch 1, Turn, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
15. SC 2, Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
24. – 32. (9 Rows of), BLO [SC 7], Ch 1, Turn, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn
**Note: Place a Stitch marker at the end of Row 32, Leave the stitch marker in place
until you have verified the length of the belly piece.
34. SC 2, Dec, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn
40. BLO [SC 2, Dec, SC 2], Ch 1, Turn
41. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
42. BLO [Dec, SC, Dec]
43. Continue SC around the edge of the entire belly piece all the way back to where you began,
Inc stitch in the corner at the beginning row, SC 2, Inc stitch in the next corner before
continuing to SC down the other side of the belly piece all the way back to where this row
began, slip stitch into the first SC. Fasten off and leave ≈3.5 foot long tail for sewing.
**Pro-Tip: The Belly Piece should be placed at the throat of the dragon on the dragon body
(not on the head at all), and stretch all the way to the base of the tail (between the back legs of
the dragon). You can check the length of the belly piece against the dragon body before single
Page | 46
crocheting around the edge of the piece to finish it. If it is too long, figure out how many rows
would need to be ripped out to make it the correct length, rip out all the rows back to the end
of Row 32 where you placed a stitch marker and then rip out the number of rows needed to
correct the length and continue on to Row 33 from there. Each dragon will come out in slightly
different sizes depending on your tension, hook, and the exact weight of yarn you use and you
may need to adjust this general pattern to fit your particular creation.
**NOTE: There are two styles of Dragon wings. You should probably make STYLE TWO.
STYLE ONE is the original pattern style and is made in many separate pieces that are sewed and
crocheted together. It is more time consuming with more sewing, but you can make each wing panel in
different colors if you want to.
STYLE TWO is an updated style and is made in one piece with minimal sewing. It is easier to use a
gradient yarn cohesively in this style.
**Pro-Tip: Regardless of yarn weight or hook size, the wings of your dragon may be a slightly different
size than the wire armature template on the last page, and you will need to bend the wire to fit your
wings, rather than to match the template.
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1A
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Page | 47
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
2. Inc, Ch 1, Turn [2]
3. Inc, SC, Ch 1, Turn [3]
4. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
5. Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [5]
6. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
7. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
8. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
9. Inc, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [7]
10. SC 7, Ch 1, turn [7]
11. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
12. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
13. Inc, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [9]
14. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
15. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
16. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
17. Inc, SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [12]
18. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
19. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
20. Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [14]
21. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
22. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
23. Inc, SC 12, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [16]
24. SC 16, Ch 1, Turn [16]
25. SC 16 [16]
Fasten off with ≈18” yarn tail in order to sew 1A to 1B as per Diagram,
Assembly instructions are below
Finished #1A
Page | 48
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1B
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
3. SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [2]
4. SC, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [3]
5. SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [3]
6. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
7. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [4]
8. SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [5]
9. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
10. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
11. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
12. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
13. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
14. SC 5, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [7]
15. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
16. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
17. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
18. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
Page | 49
19. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
20. SC 7, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [9]
21. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
22. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
23. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
24. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
25. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
26. SC 9, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [11]
27. SC 11, Ch 1, Turn [11]
28. SC 11 [11]
29. Ch 1, SC along the side of the wing (Approximately) 29 Stitches, Ch 2, Turn, Half
Trip Inc, DC Inc, HDC Inc, 2 SC, Sl St 18 (or till there are 5 stitches left to Crochet
into), 2 SC, HDC Inc, DC Inc, Half Trip Inc
Fasten off with 3 foot long yarn tail to use to sew the whole wing to the body of the
dragon later.
Page | 50
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembling Part 1A and 1B
Tools:
Same yarn used in 1A and 1B
Darning Needle
Make 2
1. Position 1A and 1B as seen in the photo and diagram. Sew together along their connected
seam.
2. Attach Yarn at Point X, SC up to Point Y along the side of 1A
3. Ch 1, SC in same space at Point Y, SC back down opposite side of 1A towards the meeting
point of 1A and 1B, SC 18, HDC, HDC Triple Dec in the last stitch of 1A, the corner of 1A
and 1B and the first stitch of 1B, HDC to end at Point Z (about 9 HDC stitches)
Page | 51
**Pro-Tip: The HDC Triple Dec is worked across the three stitches that make the
corner between 1A and 1B.
Fasten off with 2 foot long yarn tail
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 2
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Page | 52
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
4. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
5. Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [5]
6. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
7. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
8. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
9. Inc, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [7]
10. SC 7, Ch 1, turn [7]
11. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
12. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
13. Inc, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [9]
14. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
15. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
16. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
18. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
19. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
20. Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [14]
21. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
22. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
23. Inc, SC 12, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [16]
24. SC 16, Ch 1, Turn [16]
25. SC 16, Ch 2, Turn [16]
26. Half Trip Inc, DC Inc, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St 4, SC 2, HDC 2, DC Inc, Half Trip Inc,
Ch 1, Do not Turn, SC around Edge of the wings up to the top of the point of the
triangle, Ch 1, SC in same space again at that top point, SC down the other side of
the wing panel 2, fasten off with long enough yarn tail to weave in
Part 2, Finished
Page | 53
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 3
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, turn, SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
3. SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [2]
5. SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [3]
6. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
7. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [4]
8. SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [5]
9. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
10. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
11. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
12. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
13. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
14. SC 5, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [7]
15. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
16. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
17. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
18. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
Page | 54
19. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
20. SC 7, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [9]
21. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
22. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
23. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
24. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
25. SC 10, Ch 2, Turn [10]
26. Half Trip & DC in the same stitch space, HDC, HDC, SC, Sl St 2, SC, HDC, HDC,
DC & Half Trip in the same stitch space, Ch 1, Do not Turn, SC around edge of wing
up to the top point of the triangle, Ch 1, SC in same top point space again, SC down
the other side of the wing panel, fasten off with long enough yarn tail to weave in
Part 3, Finished
Page | 55
Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembly
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
Darning Needle
Make 2
Position the wing panels as per the diagram:
1. Keep the wings carefully oriented in this way. You need to create a left and right wing, each. Start
with one side. Take two adjacent panels from one wing and align them back to back. Attach the
body color yarn at the point where the red circle is. Single crochet both panels together. At the end
of the seam Chain 2, slip stitch into the second chain stitch from the hook, and then slip stitch back
to the point marked with a red circle. Fasten off the yarn with enough length left to weave in the
end with a darning needle. Repeat this process with the second seam of the same wing. Make sure
that both seams – Both lines of SC/Slip Stitch back – are oriented on the same side. The side with
the visible connecting seams is the “front-facing” side of the wing panel and will be visible when
looking at the dragon head on.
Repeat this whole process with the other wing panel but make sure that you have two wing panels
oriented as in the above diagram, one of each with front-facing seams. Do not make two of the
same wing.
At this point, you can decide if you want to make the wing panel separate from the wing wire
muscle support cover which creates a thumb in the top bend of the wing but requires sewing
on the wing wire muscle support cover first, and then sewing on the wing panel separately, OR
if you want to make the wing panel together as one piece with the wing wire muscle support
cover. This does not allow for a thumb in the top bend of the wing wire, but you only need to
sew on one piece.
Page | 56
These pictures feature the Juvenile Dragon Wings, but the idea is exactly the same.
The left picture shows utilizing the separate wing panel and muscle support cover with the
thumb. For this option proceed to the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE
PIECES
The right picture shows them as all one piece without the thumb. For this option continue to
next instructions in the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
Page | 57
Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, Turn, SC 5 in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [5]
2. Inc, SC, Inc, SC, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
3. SC, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [10]
4. Inc, SC 4, Inc, SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [13]
5. SC 3, Inc, SC 4, Inc, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [15]
6. SC 2, Inc, SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [16]
7. Inc, SC 5, Inc, SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [18]
8. Inc, SC 17, Ch 1, Turn [19]
10. SC 21, Ch 1, Turn [21]
11. Inc, SC 7, Inc, SC 7, Inc, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [24]
12. SC 24, Ch 1, Turn [24]
14. Inc, SC 25, Ch 1, Turn [27]
16. SC 29, Ch 1, Turn [29]
17. Inc, SC 8, Inc, SC, Inc, SC 8, Inc, SC, Inc, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [34]
18. SC 34, Ch 1, Turn [34]
19. SC 34, Ch 1, Turn [34]
20. Inc, SC 8, Inc, SC 10, Inc, SC, Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [39]
21. SC 39, Ch 1, Turn [39]
22. SC 39, Ch 1, Turn [39]
24. SC 44, Ch 1, Turn [44]
25. SC 16, SC, SC 16, SC, SC 10, Ch 1
**NOTE: Put stitch markers on the two highlighted underlined stitches in this
row
Page | 58
Center Point Center Point
DO NOT FASTEN OFF, Continue with instructions below:
Rotate work, SC up along the unfinished wing edge to the Center Point/OC (OC = Original Chain) (Start by
making a SC around the side of the last SC you made in Row 25) for a total of about 25 SC
SC & HDC & SC all in OC (the HDC here becomes the Center Point), SC (about) 25 back down along the
other side of the unfinished wing edge. (The very last SC should be into the side of the very last available
stitch.)
Page | 59
26. Ch 11, Starting in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 10 along Ch stitches, SC 16 along [26]
unfinished wing edge, Sl St in next stitch (the slip stitch should be into the stitch just
before the nearest marked stitch), Ch 1, Turn
**Note: The first SC 10 will be worked along the Ch stitches. The first SC of the
SC 16 will be worked around the side of the final SC you worked before the Ch
11. The remaining SC 15 should be worked along the bottom edge of the wing
along the stitches from Row 25. The Sl St should be worked into the stitch just
before the first marked stitch from Row 25.
27. Skip the Slip Stitch, SC 24, Dec, Ch 1, Turn [25]
28. SC 23, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [23]
**Pro-Tip: This row, and the rest in this section, do not count the Slip Stitch as
a stitch because you will not be crocheting into them again.
30. SC 20, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [20]
32. SC 17, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [17]
34. SC 14, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [14]
36. SC 11, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [11]
Page | 60
38. SC 8, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [8]
40. SC 5, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [5]
42. SC 2, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [2]
43. Skip the Slip Stitch, Dec, Ch 3, Turn [1]
44. Proceed along unfinished wing edge:

Half Trip Inc, DC, HDC, SC until three spaces before the stitch marker,
HDC, DC, Half Trip Inc, Triple Crochet in marked stitch (Use the stitch marker to
mark this stitch), Half Trip Inc, DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St 4, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Half
Trip Inc, Triple Crochet in Marked Stitch (Use the stitch marker to mark this stitch),
Half Trip & DC (In same stitch), HDC 2, SC, Sl St 2, SC, HDC 2, DC & Half Trip
(In Same Stitch), Triple Crochet in last possible stitch
Page | 61
Fasten off the wing panel leaving a long enough yarn tail to weave in
Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO: Finishing
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Make ONE LEFT WING and ONE RIGHT WING
1. Attach Body Color Yarn to the HDC in Row 25 of the Dragon Wings, Make 1 SC in that stitch,
Fold the Dragon Wing so that a line is visible From the OSC (OSC = Original Single Crochet, the
one you just made to start this work) to the Middle Triple Crochet marked by the stitch marker in
Row 45 of the Dragon Wings.
SC with the Body Color Yarn along that fold to bottom edge of wing, Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from
hook, Slip Stitch all the way back along that row of SC to OSC.
Page | 62
Here is an example using the Juvenile Dragon wings of exactly what it looks like to single crochet
along a fold in the wings:
2. Fold the dragon wing so that a line is visible from the OSC to the next middle Triple Crochet
marked by the second stitch marker in Row 45 of the Dragon Wings. SC with the body color yarn
along that fold to the bottom edge of wing, Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Slip Stitch all the
way back along that row of SC to OSC. When you repeat the instructions above to finish the second
wing, stitch on the opposite side of the second wing – do not make 2 of the same orientation of
wing.
Page | 63
If you want to make this as a separate piece from the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover (See next
photos for clarification), Fasten off with long enough tail to weave in later (8 inches or so).
If you want to make the wing as all one piece incorporating the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover
do not fasten off.
At this point, you can decide if you want to make the wing panel together as one piece with the
Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover. This does not allow for a thumb in the top bend of the
wing wire, but you only need to sew on piece. Or if you want to make the wing panel separate
from the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover which creates a thumb in the top bend of the wing
but requires sewing on the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover first, and then sewing on the
wing panel separately.
Page | 64
These pictures feature the Juvenile Dragon Wings, but the idea is exactly the same.
The left picture shows them as all one piece without the thumb. For this option continue to
next instructions in the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
The right picture shows utilizing the separate wing panel and muscle support cover with the
thumb. For this option proceed to the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE
PIECES
Page | 65
Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Make 2
LEFT WING:
1. Ch 1, SC all the way to the left of where you are.
When you are making the Left Wing, you will be crocheting to the End Point of the wing. When
you reach the End Point, Ch 4, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next 2 Ch stitches, SC back
along the Wing Edge to the Center Point. This creates 2 rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center
to Edge Point of the wing.
2. The Left Wing continues by single crocheting along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the
Center Point to the Base Point, and then switch to HDC stitches and continue to the Base Point.
When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle
point between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the Center
Point. This creates 2 rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
Page | 66
3. The Left Wing continues by crocheting from the Center Point to the Edge Point again. When you
reach the Edge Point, Ch 1, Turn, and then SC back to the Center Point. This creates a total of 4
rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Edge Point of the wing.
4. The Left Wing continues by single crocheting to 2 stitches before the middle point between the
Center Point to the Base Point. Switch to HDC and continue to the Base Point. When you reach the
Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the previous HDC stitches, switch to SC where
the HDC stitches end and SC to the Center Point. This creates a total of 4 rows of Body Color Yarn
along the Center to the Base Point of the wing.
5. To continue the Left Wing, Sl St in next stitch, Ch 1, Turn, Skip the slip stitch and single crochet
again from the Center Point all the way to the Base Point. When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2,
Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the Base Point and the
Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the center point. This creates 6 total rows of Body
Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
6. Then SC crochet from the Center Point to the End Point again. This creates 5 total rows of Body
Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the Wing. You finish at the End point.
Page | 67
Fasten off with approximately 30” of Yarn to use to sew the wing to the wing wire and secure the
wing to the body of the Dragon.
RIGHT WING:
1. When you are making the Right Wing, you will be crocheting toward the Base Point of the wing.
Single crochet till the middle point between the Center Point and the Base Point, then switch to
HDC as you continue to the Base Point. When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC
back along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch
to SC and continue until you reach the Center Point. This creates 2 rows of Body Color Yarn along
the Center to Base Point of the wing.
2. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet along the wing edge from the Center Point to the End
Point (Capture extraneous yarn tails as you go if you can to avoid weaving in later). When you
reach the End Point, Ch 4, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next 2 Chain Stitches, SC back
Page | 68
3. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet to 2 stitches before the middle point between the Center
Point and the Base Point. Switch to HDC and continue to the Base Point. When you reach the Base
Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the previous HDC stitches, switch to SC and continue
to the Center Point. This creates 4 total rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of
the wing.
4. Then SC crochet from the Center Point to the End Point again. When you reach the End Point, Ch
1, Turn, and then SC back along the Wing Edge to the Center Point. This creates 4 total rows of
Body Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the wing.
5. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet from the Center Point to the Base Point. When you
reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle point
between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the center point. This
creates 6 Total rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
Page | 69
Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the wing. You finish at the End point. Fasten off with
approximately 3 ft. of yarn to use to sew the wing to the wing wire and secure the wing to the body
of the Dragon.
Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE: Wire
Tools:
Darning Needle
Wire (as described in Materials section at the beginning of the pattern)
Make 2
1. Bend support wire along the curvature of the wing edge. Do not be afraid to bend the wire to be
slightly longer than your relaxed crocheted wing is. It is good to stretch the edges of the crocheted
piece as you sew it around the wing wire a little bit – you do not want the wing to be loose on the
wire.
**Pro-Tip: Mark the wire at the edge of the wing panel
Page | 70
2. Insert the long straight part of the wire into the shoulder of the Dragon up to the mark you made.
Insert the matching wire opposite the first. Using thin strip of duct tape, wrap the two wires together
on either side of the Dragon body.
3. Cut another piece of wire. It can be as long as you want, I have used as long as another full 18 inch
piece or it can be as short as from one lower bend in the wing wire to the other. Insert this piece of
wire approximately 3 stitches away from the first-insertion point of the wing wires. Tape it to
secure it to the existing wing wires. This will create 2 points of entry for the wing wires and will
prevent spinning or slipping. Optional: If you want to be even more pro-active about support, you
can insert a third wire at a third entry point.
4. Pin the Wing in place around the wire and along the body of the dragon
Page | 71
5. Using Darning needle, stitch in place. Use tiny stitches. Pull the stitches tight. Encase the wire in
the crochet work fully all the way to the shoulder of the Dragon, and then anchor the rest of the wing
to the body along the spine of the Dragon.
Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Darning Needle
Make 2
1. Get out two Wires. Form the wire wings based on the template – And compare the wire you bend to
the assembled wing panels you’ve made so that it matches the necessary size. The template is a
guide, and it is a one-size-fits-most template. The size of the wing panels and necessary wire
framing depends heavily on the weight of the yarn you use, your hook, and your particular tension –
so the size will vary from artist to artist. Once you’ve bent the wire to appropriately match what the
template shows and custom fit to the wings you’ve made, make a mark on the wire at the edge of the
wing panel to indicate how deeply you should insert the wing into the Dragon Body.
2. Insert the first wire all the way in, through and out the other side of the Dragon Body in a location
just above/behind the shoulder up to the mark you made on the wire. See pictures for reference, but
you will have to determine where it looks best.
Page | 72
3. Insert the second wire opposite the first all the way in, through and out the other side of the Dragon
Body. Try to insert this second wire as very nearly exactly opposite the first as possible.
4. Cut a 6 inch length of Duct Tape. Rip the piece of Duct Tape in Half length wise to make two
equally long pieces of smaller width.
5. Attach one piece of Duct Tape right next to the Dragon Body around the Wing Wires and wrap the
tape repeatedly around the two wing wires wrapping away from the body fully attaching them up to
the first elbow of the wing shape. Repeat this process on the other side.
Page | 73
7. Make Part 1 and 2 of Wing Bone Muscle Support Pieces:
Wing Bone Muscle Support Part 1:
This piece is used to cover the wire support “bones” or wire for the wings from the shoulder of the
dragon up to the top elbow bend.
You will need to custom tailor this piece to fit the wings that you have made. The size of the wing
panels and necessary wire framing depends heavily on the weight of the yarn you use, your hook,
and your particular tension – so the size will vary from artist to artist. If you need more length in the
section by the shoulder, add rows of SC 8 between Row 6 and Row 8. If you need more (or less)
length in the section from the elbow bend to the top-most bend, you can add (or subtract) rows of 5
between Row 16 and 40. Using the Body Color, begin with a 18” tail that will be used to sew the
wing support to dragon body:
1. Ch 13, Starting in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 12, Ch 1, Turn
3. Dec, SC 8, Dec, Ch 1, Turn
6. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn
7. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn
8. SC 8, Ch 2, Turn
9. DC 2, HDC, SC 2, HDC, DC 2, Ch 2, Turn
16. – (25 Rows of) SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
40.
41. Dec, SC, Dec, Ch 1, Turn
43. SC 3
Fasten off with 24” long yarn tail and use to sew in place
This piece is used to cover the wire support “bones” for the Wings from the top elbow bend to the
wing tip.
You may need to custom tailor this piece to fit the Wings that you have made. The size of the wing
and your particular tension – so the size will vary from artist to artist. If you need more (or less)
length in this piece, you can add (or subtract) rows between row 2 and row 30.
Page | 74
Make 2 of these, start with a 12 inch tail that will be used to sew this piece to the previous wing
support:

30.
31. Trip SC Dec
Fasten off with 18 inch tail to sew it shut around the outer wire support.
8. Using the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 1, starting at the center bend of the wing wire, sew
the crocheted piece in place using a whip stitch.
9. OPTIONAL: Stuff the bottom of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 1 with Polyfil
You may not need to stuff the bottom of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece if you are wrapping
it around multiple wires at multiple entry points. The distance between the wires will take up all of
the space inside this crocheted piece.
Page | 75
10. Sew the base of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece in place on the Dragon Body.
11. Repeat directions 8 – 10 on the other wing.

12. Using the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 2, starting at the very end tip of the Wing Wire,
sew the crocheted piece in place using a whip stitch. When you reach the end, stitch it in place
connected to the Part 1 piece. Repeat this on the other wing.
13. Pin the Wings in place on the Dragon and, using left over tails from the Wing creation, stitch in
place.
**Pro-Tip: When you sew the wings in place, make sure that the connecting lines between the
wing panels attach at that center top point of the wings (Point Y on the diagram). Use the tails
of the Body Color yarn to do this so that they seem to seamlessly sprout from the Wing
supports.
Page | 76
Dragon: Finished Photos
Page | 77
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Head
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 1
**Pro-tip: If you are using a gradient or color-change yarn and would like the body Stitch
of the dragon to seamlessly transition between colors from nose to tail tip, then you count
should proceed to the next section and make the dragon body first (which is formed
from the tail tip up to the neck of the dragon).
Once the Dragon Body is complete, come back to this section and make a Dragon
Head (which is formed from the nose to the base of the head). First, starting with the
yarn you just cut to fasten off the Dragon Body, measure out 13.5 yards of yarn (DO
NOT CUT), and then begin crocheting the head at that point in the length, and use it
up to the end of the yarn. This may be a little unwieldy to start crocheting from the
middle of piece of yarn, and crochet using the “tail” up, but it guarantees that you
work your way back along the yarn color gradient to the color that the Dragon Body
ended with at the neck.
The 13.5 yards of yarn is an approximate measure of yarn and may be affected by
weight of yarn, size of hook, and your particular tension. You may need to adjust
this to be slightly longer or shorter as necessary to blend in the color transition (This
is why you do not cut the yarn to start. You need to verify that the 13.5 yards is
enough to make the head by your hand). You do not need to allow for a long tail if
the tail of the neck of the Dragon Body is long enough to sew the Dragon Head to the
body.
1. SC x 6 in Magic Circle, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [6]
3. SC 4, Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 2, Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 3, Sl [9]
St to beginning St, Ch 1
**Pro-Tip: These [Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook] instructions create nostrils. In

the following row, ignore the nostrils, do not stitch into them. They are not
counted in the stitch count.
9. SC 3, Inc (SC 6, Inc) x 2, SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
Page | 78
Insert the safety eyes between rows 9 & 10 or between Rows 10 & 11, count 9 full
spaces between them.
They should be placed in alignment with the nostrils as created in Row 3
**Pro-Tip: Once attached, you need to sculpt the head to make the sides flatter.
If the safety eyes have holes in the posts, you can use some extra yarn to stitch
through the holes in the ends of the safety eye posts and tie them together as
tightly as possible as seen in the pictures above. If the safety eyes DO NOT have
holes in the posts, you can trim the posts after placing the eyes, and then follow
the directions below.
If the safety eyes you are using do not have holes in the back of the post, please use
the following technique AFTER Row 18: Shape the head after you’ve placed the
eyes and stuffed the head and fastened off the yarn. You can even do this step after
attaching the head to the body of the dragon. Using the body color yarn, stitch back
and forth from the left side through the head to the right side, while moving the insert
stitches around the eye – as though each eye were a clock, and you are stitching to hit
each hour (follow the yellow dashes). Gently pull the stitches tight to shape the head
to be a little thinner and flatter around the eyes which creates the same effect as tying
the eye posts together.
18. Dec x 6, Sl St to beginning St [6]
Fasten off with 12” yarn tail. No need to weave in as you can hide it in the neck when
you sew the head to the body.
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Body
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 1
Pro-Tip: In Rows 5, 10, 16, 23, 31, and 40, you can stagger the exact location of Stitch
the increase within the row if you are at all bothered by their alignment in the count
dragon tail. For example: In Row 10 instead of Inc, SC 4, you could do SC 2,
Inc, SC 2
Page | 79
54. (Inc, SC 5) x 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
Begin stuffing the dragon tail/body – Insert stuffing to about 6-8 inches away from
the tip of the tail, it is not necessary to stuff all the way down to the tail tip. Make
sure that the beginning of the stuffing doesn’t visibly change the shape of the tail.
82. (SC 3, Dec) x 2, SC 15 (orient the spine wire to the center of these 15 SC), Dec, SC [28]
3, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1
Insert the wire(s) into the dragon body pushing it all the way into the tip of the tail (it
helps to spin the wire as you insert it). Center the wire(s) with the 15 SC. The wire
functions as the dragon's spine.
Use wire(s) approximately 24 inches long and strong enough support posing the
body.
18 inch long, 18 gauge, paper wrapped wire is recommended. For a secure

connection, overlap the first 6 inches and wrap together using a .5 inch wide, 2 ft.
long strip of duct tape. Begin wrapping from the center of the wires to one inch
above the overlap
You can also choose not to use wire at all, if this Dragon is for a small child. The
Page | 80
entire Dragon can still look the same as example photos, but you will need to be
more deliberate about soft-sculpting it as you go, and you may want to stuff the tail
lightly so that it is softer and does not stick straight out.
84. Dec, SC 2, Dec, SC 16, Dec, SC 2, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [24]
92. SC 17, Inc x 2, SC 17, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [38]
93. Dec, (SC 6, Inc) x 4, SC 6, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [40]
94. Dec, SC 11, Inc, SC 12, Inc, SC 11, Dec, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [40]
**Note: Beginning in Row 96 the end number in brackets for row total is the
outermost (or top most) stitch count, not the cumulative number of stitches made in
the row instructions.
The “… Ch 1, Turn… Ch 1, Turn….” structure of a Rows 96 and onward are to

create a built-up wall at the front of the chest, and then later building up the back of
the neck. Here is how it looks as you build up stitches:
For video demonstration go here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh5T-idiwm8
96. **Note: From here on, crochet in Spiral. Crochet the first stitch of the next
round into the next available stitch, do not slip stitch, Ch 1
A. Dec x 2, SC 15, Inc, SC 27, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 6, Dec, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 13 [38]
97. Start this row with the first stitch into the next available SC stitch.
See photos for clarity.
A. SC 10, Inc, SC 17, Dec x 3, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
98. A. SC 11, Inc, SC 13, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
Page | 81
C. SC 5, Dec x 2, SC 5 [31]
C. SC 6, Dec x 2, SC 6 [28]
C. SC 4, Dec x 2, SC 4 [25]
C. SC 3, Dec x 2, SC 3 [22]
C. SC 3, Dec x 2, SC 3 [19]
103. SC 19 [19]
104. A. SC 4, Inc, SC 13, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn
105. SC 5, Inc, SC 8, Dec, SC 2 [18]
106. SC, Dec, SC 5, Dec, SC 4, Inc, SC 3 [17]
107. SC 5, Dec, SC 7, Inc, SC 2 [17]
108. SC 4, Dec x 2, SC 6, Inc, SC 2 [16]
109. A. SC 2, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 10, Inc, SC 3 [15]
110. A. Dec, SC, Dec, SC, Dec, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 8, Inc, SC 3 [13]
111. SC 2, Dec, SC 5, Inc, SC 3 [13]
112. A. SC 2, Dec, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 8, Inc, SC 3 [13]
**NOTE: The following Row (113) is optional
113. A. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
B. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn
C. SC 6
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to use to sew the head to the body, and soft-sculpt the
head
**Note: The photos below are depicted without the optional Row 113
Compare the wire extending beyond the neck of the body to the head (back of the head to nose tip). Trim
the wire so that it will be a couple of centimeters shorter than the length of the head.
**Pro-Tip: If you are making the perched leg add-on dragon, do not trim the wire!
Insert the body wire into the head just above the center hole at the back of the head.
Page | 82
Slide the wire in along the top of the head, just under the surface of yarn, towards the nose. Once the head
is fully on the body-wire, use the tail of yarn from the end of the neck to whip stitch the head in place and
use tiny stitches to make the seam disappear. Make sure it is VERY secure. Bend and shape the head and
neck into the desired arc/shape.
If you made the optional Row 113, which creates a tab to cover the hole at the back of the head, stretch and
pin the tab towards the forehead of the dragon. Stitch securely in place.
**Pro-Tip: I prefer to make and attach all the legs next, and then do the belly after that. It is challenging to
sew the belly on after the limbs are attached, but it guarantees that the belly is centered and evenly placed in
relation to the limbs if it is sewn on after the limbs. Others prefer to sew the belly on first because it is easier
to attach without the limbs. Others prefer to skip the belly piece all together. Proceed to your preference.
For Video Demonstration of Pinning in Place Go Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXcIcw2viO4
For Video Demonstration of Sewing to Attach Go Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MaLj7IPvU8
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Front Legs
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
The bolded instructions below are oriented at the center of the front or back of the Stitch
leg. If they are noticeably off-center, shift the row (and all later rows) by one stitch. count
Shift is influenced by fiber and tension, it varies from artist to artist.
For example, on Row 6, if the Dec is not at the front-center of the leg, you can shift
one stitch by making it Inc, SC 4, Dec, SC 3
3. SC 4, Bump, SC, Bump, SC, Bump, SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
**Optional: Insert the glass gem into the foot. The flat side of the gem should be
oriented down, the curved side should be oriented up.
** Optional: at this point you can choose to insert a wire and a glass gem (or wait
until the leg is fully formed). The purpose of the wire is to; stabilize the leg,
strengthen the leg and allow it to be positionable. Please note, the photos steps 1-5
below are an example of what to do with the wire only, the leg shape is from the
Juvenile Dragon pattern.
Page | 83
Take a wire and bend the end into a circle the same size as the base of the foot.
Bend the circle at a 90 degree angle from the wire. Insert the wire circle into the
bottom of the foot. (If you want to also use a glass gem, insert that now so that it sits
on top of the wire circle – it may be a tight squeeze, but it should work.)
Trim the wire so that it is slightly longer than the opening of the top of the leg, bend
it and push the end through the side of the leg that will be against the body of the
dragon. This little bit of wire inserted directly into the body of the dragon will help
to stabilize and strengthen the entire leg and connection. Again, this step is
completely optional.
7. SC 2, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC, Dec (F), Inc, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
11. SC 5, HDC 6, SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
18. SC 6, Inc (B), SC 8, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [20]
19. SC 5, Dec, Dec, SC 8, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [19]
20. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 8, Inc (F), SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [19]
25. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 12, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [18]
26. SC 15, Dec (F), SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [17]
27. SC 5, Dec (B), SC 7, Triple SC Dec (F), Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
28. Stuff the leg (dense stuffing in the foot and bottom ¾ of the leg, much softer towards
the top of the leg)
Fold the remaining hole in half,
Cut with ≈18 inch yarn tail, pin in place and use the yarn tail to sew leg in place
To attach to the body, pin in place with both front legs and both back legs before
stitching on. It is important to make sure that all four feet are level with each other to
ensure that the dragon sits with stability. Once you’ve verified that all four legs/feet
are even and positioned correctly (see photos), sew into place. Sew at every edge of
the leg that sits against the body. Stitch it tightly against the body, sculpting it into
the exact position you want. Use small, neat stitches. If you do this correctly, the
attachment will look seamless.
Page | 84
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Legs: Rear Upper Leg for Sitting Position
Tools:
Body color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
**NOTE: Crochet this in Spiral, do NOT use (Slip Stich, Ch 1) to finish each Stitch
row count
1. Ch 6, SC 2 in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in each of the next 3 Ch stitches, Inc x 2 in last [14]
Ch Stitch, keep crocheting around to the other side of the row of Ch stitches, SC in
each of the next 3 Ch stitches opposite the first three SC stitches, 2 SC in last stitch
(same stitch as the first 2 SC)
2. SC 3, Inc, SC 6, Inc, SC 3 [16]
3. (SC 3, Inc) x 4 [20]
4. SC 2, Inc, (SC 4, Inc) x 3, SC 2 [24]
5. SC 24 [24]
6. (SC 5, Inc) x 4 [28]
7. SC 28 [28]
8. SC 3, Inc (SC 6, Inc) x 3, SC 3 [32]
9. SC 32 [32]
10. SC 32 [32]
11. SC 32 [32]
12. (SC 6, Dec) x 4 [28]
13. SC 28 [28]
14. (SC 5, Dec) x 4 [24]
15. SC 24 [24]
16. (SC 4, Dec) x 4 [20]
17. (SC 3, Dec) x 4 [16]
18. (SC 2, Dec) x 4 [12]
**Note: Stuff the piece half-full of Polyfil. The stuffing needs to be even
throughout the piece, but do not stuff it firmly (refer to middle picture above)
19. (SC, Dec) x 4, slip stitch into next stitch [8]
**Pro-Tip: This is the top of the leg piece
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to sew shut, pin & sew leg in place
Page | 85
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Foot: Rear Lower Foot for Sitting Position
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 7, Starting in 3rd Ch from hook, Bump, Ch 1, SC in next Ch stitch, Bump, Ch 1, [5]
SC, Bump, Ch 1
**Pro-Tip: The “Bump” stitch is defined in the Glossary at the beginning of the
pattern.
Re-orient your work so that you are crocheting around the edge of those bump
stitches.
**Pro-Tip: You can force the “Bump” part of the Bump Stitch to bump
outwards in the correct orientation by poking/pressing it with your finger.
**Pro-Tip: For any confusion, reference the photo version

If you are using glass gems, insert one (or two) now, or stuff with polyfil.
The flat part of the gem should be oriented down towards the side of the toes that
look like they have small open holes see the photo in rows 3. – 4.
9. Fold the hole of the work in half, SC 4 across to close the hole [4]
Fasten off with 18” yarn tail to pin & then sew in place
The back part of the foot should be 2-dimensionally flat.
The foot should be placed partially underneath the back leg piece, so only part of the foot and the toes stick
out from underneath the rounded upper part of the rear leg. The overlap, once sewn on should seem to
become all one piece if you use small, neat whip stitches. Sew it along every edge where the Back foot
touches the Back Leg piece.
After you are satisfied with the placement and balance of the Dragon, sew all limbs in place. I sew them in
place in the order they were crocheted (front limbs, back leg circles, back feet), I do this for stability and so
that I can guarantee that the back feet are exactly the same on both sides. It can be difficult to do this if you
sew the feet onto the Back Leg Circles first. Some people prefer to sew the back feet onto the back leg
circles first before attaching, please proceed to your preference. Weave in and trim ends. Move on to the
decorative pieces for the dragon next, then the wings last as it is easier to sew on the decorative pieces
before the wings are attached.
For video demonstration of pinning in place, go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXcIcw2viO4
For video demonstration of sewing to attach, go here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1MaLj7IPvU8
Page | 86
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Back Leg: Rear Leg for Standing Position
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
**Pro-Tip: Use the same glass gem, wire, and stuffing instructions as for the Standing Stitch
Front Leg count
3. SC 4, Bump, SC, Bump, SC, Bump SC 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
**Pro-Tip: The “Bump” stitch in this row is defined in the Glossary at the beginning of
the pattern
11. SC 4, Inc (B), SC 4, Inc (F), Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]
12. Inc, SC 5, Inc (B), SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
14. Inc (F), SC 5, Dec, Dec, SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
15. Inc (F), SC 6, Dec (B), SC 5, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
16. Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 4, Dec (B), SC 4, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [15]
17. SC, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 10, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [17]
28. SC 5, Dec (F), SC 6, Dec (B), SC, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [14]
29. SC 5, Dec (F), SC 5, Dec (B), Sl St to beginning Stitch [12]
Stuff the leg (dense stuffing in the foot and bottom ¾ of the leg, much softer towards
the top of the leg
Fold the opening in half,
Cut with 18” yarn tail, pin in place, sew to dragon body
Page | 87
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Spiral Horn
Tools:
Horn Color Yarn
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. SC 4 in Magic Circle, continue in spiral in BLO [4]
2. Inc, SC 3 [5]
3. Inc, SC 4 [6]
4. Inc, SC 5 [7]
5. Inc, SC 6 [8]
6. Inc, SC 7 [9]
7. Inc, SC 8 [10]
8. Inc, SC 9 [11]
9. SC 11 [11]
Fasten off with 12” yarn tail, pin in place, and sew to the head of the dragon.
Stuffing is optional for this piece.
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Long Cheek Frill
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in.
1. Ch 17, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook Sl St into next Ch Stitch
2. (SC, Ch 2, Sl St in last SC, SC in next Stitch) x 2
3. (SC, Ch 3, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, SC in next Ch Stitch) x 2
4. (SC, Ch 4, sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, DC in next Ch Stitch, SC in next
Ch Stitch) x 2
5. Sl St in next 2 Ch Stitches
Fasten off yarn with 12” yarn tail, pin in place, sew to the head of the dragon.
Page | 88
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tails to use to attach and weave in
1. Ch 10, Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook, Sl St in next Ch Stitch
2. 2 SC in same Stitch, Ch 2, Sl St into last SC
3. SC
5. SC
7. 2 Sl St in last 2 Ch stitches
Fasten off yarn 12” yarn tail, pin in place, and sew to the head of the dragon
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Folded Ear
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Start and end with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in Stitch
count
1. SC 6 in Magic Circle, Sl St to 1st SC, Ch 1 [6]
2. Inc x 6, Ch 1, Turn [12]
3. (SC, Inc) x 6, Ch 1, Turn [18]
4. Sl St in 2nd SC, (SC, Ch 2, Sl St in last SC, SC) x 7, Sl St 2
Alternative Row 4:
(SC 2, Inc) x 3, Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from Hook, (SC 2, Inc) x 3
Fasten off yarn with 12” yarn tail,
Fold the ear in half, pin to the head of the dragon, sew in place, and weave in ends.
Page | 89
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Fin Ear
Tools:
Body and Accent Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
PART 1: Use contrasting color to body color

1. Ch 8, DC in 3rd Ch from hook, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Ch Stitch, Ch 1, Turn
2. SC in 1st Stitch around previous round’s Sl St, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Ch 2, Turn
7. DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Stitch
PART 2: Use Body Color Yarn

Attach body color at Point A
1. SC 6 along Edge X, Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, Sl
St back along Edge X to Point A, Ch 1
2. Dec in 1st and 2nd Open space on Edge Z,
Sl St along space between Row 2 & 3 of Fin Ear: Part 1
instructions,
Ch 2 at the end of Sl St, Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook,
Flip the work,
Sl St down same Line back to Edge Z, Ch 1
3. Dec on Edge Z, Sl St along space between Row 4 & 5 of
Fin Ear: Part 1 instructions,
Ch 2 at the end of Sl St,
Sl St into 2nd Ch from hook,
Flip the work,
Sl St down the same line back to Edge Z, Ch 1
4. Triple SC Dec on Edge Z, Ch 1, SC 6 down Edge Y,
Ch 2 at the end, Sl St into second Ch from hook,
Sl St back down Edge Y to Edge Z,

Pin in place, Sew in place. Weave in all tails. Trim
excess.
Page | 90
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Scales down the Back
Tools:
Accent color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 1
Start with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in
**NOTE: This piece is extremely variable in length depending on the yarn you use, the hook
you use, and your particular tension. The dragon you have made will require custom-length
scales to reach from the forehead to the tail tip.
When you create this piece, DO NOT cut the yarn until you pin the scales in place to check to
make sure the length is correct.
If it is too short, rip out the stitches until you get back to Row 46 and add more rows to make it
your desired length.
If it is too long, rip out the stitches until you get to row 41 and then purposefully rip out rows
that will make it the desired length.
You will not know the final length of the scales until after you have slip stitched back along
the scales all the way to the beginning because the slip stitches change the length of the scale
line. The slip stitches reinforce and strengthen the scales, but they also shrink the length. The
following instructions should fit with all previous instructions/sizes, but adjust to the dragon
that you make, if necessary.
1. 3 Tight Ch Stitches
4. – 6. [3 Repeats of] Ch 4, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch
7. Ch 5, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next Ch Stitch, DC in next Ch Stitch
47. Ch 2, Sl St in 2nd Ch from hook, Sl St all the way back along previous rows
**Pro-Tip: As you slip stitch back to the beginning across the base of all the scales you’ve
created, try to slip stitch once INSIDE each scale that only has one stitch (like Row 2 & 3
scales), slip stitch twice inside each scale that has two stitches (like Row 4 scales), slip stitch
three times inside each scale that has three stitches (like Row 7 Scales), and always slip stitch
once between each scale
Pin in place along the center of the back of the Dragon
CONFIRM IT IS THE CORRECT LENGTH
Once correct length is reached, fasten off with ≈3.5 foot long yarn tail, pin, and sew in place.
Page | 91
TEXT ONLY: Optional: Belly
Tools:
Accent color yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 1
**Pro-Tip: This piece is extremely variable in length depending on the yarn you use, the hook
you use, and your particular tension. Before you Fasten off, Pin in place to double check it is
the desirable length, aiming to end it at the base of the Tail. Add or subtract rows as needed.
1. Ch 5, Turn, Starting in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn
2. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn
7. SC, Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn
8. – 13. (6 Rows of) BLO[SC 5], Ch 1, Turn, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn
24. – 32. (9 Rows of), BLO [SC 7], Ch 1, Turn, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn
**Note: Place a Stitch marker at the end of Row 32, Leave the stitch marker in place
until you have verified the length of the belly piece.
40. BLO [SC 2, Dec, SC 2], Ch 1, Turn
41. SC 5, Ch1, Turn
42. BLO [Dec, SC, Dec]
43. Continue SC around the edge of the entire belly piece all the way back to where you began,
Inc stitch in the corner at the beginning row, SC 2, Inc stitch in the next corner before
continuing to SC down the other side of the belly piece all the way back to where this row
began, slip stitch into the first SC. Fasten off and leave ≈3.5 foot long tail for sewing.
**Pro-Tip: The Belly Piece should be placed at the throat of the dragon on the dragon body
(not on the head at all), and stretch all the way to the base of the tail (between the back legs of
the dragon). You can check the length of the belly piece against the dragon body before single
crocheting around the edge of the piece to finish it. If it is too long, figure out how many rows
would need to be ripped out to make it the correct length, rip out all the rows back to the end
of Row 32 where you placed a stitch marker and then rip out the number of rows needed to
correct the length and continue on to Row 33 from there. Each dragon will come out in slightly
different sizes depending on your tension, hook, and the exact weight of yarn you use and you
may need to adjust this general pattern to fit your particular creation.
Page | 92
**NOTE: There are two styles of Dragon wings. You should probably make STYLE TWO.
STYLE ONE is the original pattern style and is made in many separate pieces that are sewed and
crocheted together. It is more time consuming with more sewing, but you can make each wing panel in
different colors if you want to.
STYLE TWO is an updated style and is made in one piece with minimal sewing. It is easier to use a
gradient yarn cohesively in this style.
**Pro-Tip: Regardless of yarn weight or hook size, the wings of your dragon may be a slightly different
size than the wire armature template on the last page, and you will need to bend the wire to fit your
wings, rather than to match the template.
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1A
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
4. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
5. Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [5]
Page | 93
6. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
7. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
8. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
9. Inc, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [7]
10. SC 7, Ch 1, turn [7]
11. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
12. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
13. Inc, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [9]
14. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
15. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
16. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
18. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
19. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
20. Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [14]
21. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
22. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
23. Inc, SC 12, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [16]
24. SC 16, Ch 1, Turn [16]
25. SC 16 [16]
Fasten off with ≈18” yarn tail in order to sew 1A to 1B as per Diagram,
Assembly instructions are below
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1B
Tools:
Page | 94
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
3. SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [2]
5. SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [3]
6. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
7. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [4]
8. SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [5]
9. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
10. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
11. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
12. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
13. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
14. SC 5, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [7]
15. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
16. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
17. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
18. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
19. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
20. SC 7, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [9]
21. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
22. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
23. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
24. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
25. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
26. SC 9, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [11]
27. SC 11, Ch 1, Turn [11]
28. SC 11 [11]
29. Ch 1, SC along the side of the wing (Approximately) 29 Stitches, Ch 2, Turn, Half
Trip Inc, DC Inc, HDC Inc, 2 SC, Sl St 18 (or till there are 5 stitches left to Crochet
into), 2 SC, HDC Inc, DC Inc, Half Trip Inc
Fasten off with 3 foot long yarn tail to use to sew the whole wing to the body of the
dragon later.
Page | 95
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembling Part 1A and 1B
Tools:
Same yarn used in 1A and 1B
Darning Needle
Make 2
1. Position 1A and 1B as seen in the photo and diagram. Sew together along their connected
seam.
2. Attach Yarn at Point X, SC up to Point Y along the side of 1A
3. Ch 1, SC in same space at Point Y, SC back down opposite side of 1A towards the meeting
point of 1A and 1B, SC 18, HDC, HDC Triple Dec in the last stitch of 1A, the corner of 1A
and 1B and the first stitch of 1B, HDC to end at Point Z (about 9 HDC stitches)
**Pro-Tip: The HDC Triple Dec is worked across the three stitches that make the
corner between 1A and 1B.
Fasten off with 2 foot long yarn tail
Page | 96
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 2
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
4. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
5. Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [5]
6. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
7. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
8. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
9. Inc, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [7]
10. SC 7, Ch 1, turn [7]
11. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
12. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
13. Inc, SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [9]
14. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
15. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
16. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
18. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
19. SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [12]
20. Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [14]
21. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
22. SC 14, Ch 1, Turn [14]
Page | 97
23. Inc, SC 12, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [16]
24. SC 16, Ch 1, Turn [16]
25. SC 16, Ch 2, Turn [16]
26. Half Trip Inc, DC Inc, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St 4, SC 2, HDC 2, DC Inc, Half Trip Inc,
Ch 1, Do not Turn, SC around Edge of the wings up to the top of the point of the
triangle, Ch 1, SC in same space again at that top point, SC down the other side of
the wing panel 2, fasten off with long enough yarn tail to weave in
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 3
Tools:
‘G’ (4 mm) or ‘E’ (3.5 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, turn, SC in 2nd Ch from Hook, Ch 1, Turn [1]
3. SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [2]
5. SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [3]
6. Inc, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn [4]
7. SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [4]
8. SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [5]
Page | 98
9. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
10. SC 5, Ch 1, Turn [5]
11. SC 4, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [6]
12. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
13. SC 6, Ch 1, Turn [6]
14. SC 5, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [7]
15. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
16. SC 7, Ch 1, Turn [7]
17. SC 6, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
18. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
19. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn [8]
20. SC 7, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [9]
21. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
22. SC 9, Ch 1, Turn [9]
23. SC 8, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [10]
24. SC 10, Ch 1, Turn [10]
25. SC 10, Ch 2, Turn [10]
26. Half Trip & DC in the same stitch space, HDC, HDC, SC, Sl St 2, SC, HDC, HDC,
DC & Half Trip in the same stitch space, Ch 1, Do not Turn, SC around edge of wing
up to the top point of the triangle, Ch 1, SC in same top point space again, SC down
the other side of the wing panel, fasten off with long enough yarn tail to weave in
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Assembly
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
Darning Needle
Make 2
Position the wing panels as per the diagram:
1. Keep the wings carefully oriented in this way. You need to create a left and right wing, each. Start
with one side. Take two adjacent panels from one wing and align them back to back. Attach the
body color yarn at the point where the red circle is. Single crochet both panels together. At the end
of the seam Chain 2, slip stitch into the second chain stitch from the hook, and then slip stitch back
to the point marked with a red circle. Fasten off the yarn with enough length left to weave in the
Page | 99
end with a darning needle. Repeat this process with the second seam of the same wing. Make sure
that both seams – Both lines of SC/Slip Stitch back – are oriented on the same side. The side with
the visible connecting seams is the “front-facing” side of the wing panel and will be visible when
looking at the dragon head on.
Repeat this whole process with the other wing panel but make sure that you have two wing panels
oriented as in the above diagram, one of each with front-facing seams. Do not make two of the
same wing.
At this point, you can decide if you want to make the wing panel separate from the wing wire
muscle support cover which creates a thumb in the top bend of the wing but requires sewing
on the wing wire muscle support cover first, and then sewing on the wing panel separately, OR
if you want to make the wing panel together as one piece with the wing wire muscle support
cover. This does not allow for a thumb in the top bend of the wing wire, but you only need to
sew on one piece.
For the option to create a wing with separate panels and a muscle support cover with a thumb
proceed to the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES
For the option to create a wing as all one piece without the thumb, continue to next
instructions in the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO
Tools:
Accent Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm) hook
Make 2
Stitch
count
1. Ch 2, Turn, SC 5 in 2nd Ch from hook, Ch 1, Turn [5]
2. Inc, SC, Inc, SC, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [8]
3. SC, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC 3, Ch 1, Turn [10]
4. Inc, SC 4, Inc, SC 3, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [13]
6. SC 2, Inc, SC 12, Ch 1, Turn [16]
8. Inc, SC 17, Ch 1, Turn [19]
10. SC 21, Ch 1, Turn [21]
11. Inc, SC 7, Inc, SC 7, Inc, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn [24]
12. SC 24, Ch 1, Turn [24]
14. Inc, SC 25, Ch 1, Turn [27]
Page | 100
16. SC 29, Ch 1, Turn [29]
18. SC 34, Ch 1, Turn [34]
19. SC 34, Ch 1, Turn [34]
20. Inc, SC 8, Inc, SC 10, Inc, SC, Inc, SC 10, Inc, Ch 1, Turn [39]
21. SC 39, Ch 1, Turn [39]
22. SC 39, Ch 1, Turn [39]
24. SC 44, Ch 1, Turn [44]
25. SC 16, SC, SC 16, SC, SC 10, Ch 1
**NOTE: Put stitch markers on the two highlighted underlined stitches in this
row
DO NOT FASTEN OFF, Continue with instructions below:
Rotate work, SC up along the unfinished wing edge to the Center Point/OC (OC = Original Chain) (Start by
making a SC around the side of the last SC you made in Row 25) for a total of about 25 SC
SC & HDC & SC all in OC (the HDC here becomes the Center Point), SC (about) 25 back down along the
other side of the unfinished wing edge. (The very last SC should be into the side of the very last available
stitch.)
26. Ch 11, Starting in 2nd Ch from hook, SC 10 along Ch stitches, SC 16 along [26]
unfinished wing edge, Sl St in next stitch (the slip stitch should be into the stitch just
before the nearest marked stitch), Ch 1, Turn
**Note: The first SC 10 will be worked along the Ch stitches. The first SC of the
SC 16 will be worked around the side of the final SC you worked before the Ch
11. The remaining SC 15 should be worked along the bottom edge of the wing
along the stitches from Row 25. The Sl St should be worked into the stitch just
before the first marked stitch from Row 25.
28. SC 23, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [23]
**Pro-Tip: This row, and the rest in this section, do not count the Slip Stitch as
a stitch because you will not be crocheting into them again.
30. SC 20, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [20]
32. SC 17, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [17]
34. SC 14, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [14]
36. SC 11, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [11]
38. SC 8, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [8]
40. SC 5, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [5]
Page | 101
42. SC 2, Sl St, Ch 1, Turn [2]
43. Skip the Slip Stitch, Dec, Ch 3, Turn [1]
44. Proceed along unfinished wing edge:
Half Trip Inc, DC, HDC, SC until three spaces before the stitch marker,
HDC, DC, Half Trip Inc, Triple Crochet in marked stitch (Use the stitch marker to
mark this stitch), Half Trip Inc, DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St 4, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Half
Trip Inc, Triple Crochet in Marked Stitch (Use the stitch marker to mark this stitch),
Half Trip & DC (In same stitch), HDC 2, SC, Sl St 2, SC, HDC 2, DC & Half Trip
(In Same Stitch), Triple Crochet in last possible stitch
Fasten off the wing panel leaving a long enough yarn tail to weave in
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wings: STYLE TWO: Finishing
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Make ONE LEFT WING and ONE RIGHT WING
1. Attach Body Color Yarn to the HDC in Row 25 of the Dragon Wings, Make 1 SC in that stitch,
Fold the Dragon Wing so that a line is visible From the OSC (OSC = Original Single Crochet, the
one you just made to start this work) to the Middle Triple Crochet marked by the stitch marker in
Row 45 of the Dragon Wings.
SC with the Body Color Yarn along that fold to bottom edge of wing, Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from
hook, Slip Stitch all the way back along that row of SC to OSC.
2. Fold the dragon wing so that a line is visible from the OSC to the next middle Triple Crochet
marked by the second stitch marker in Row 45 of the Dragon Wings. SC with the body color yarn
along that fold to the bottom edge of wing, Ch 2, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, Slip Stitch all the
way back along that row of SC to OSC. When you repeat the instructions above to finish the second
wing, stitch on the opposite side of the second wing – do not make 2 of the same orientation of
wing.
If you want to make this as a separate piece from the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover (See next
photos for clarification), Fasten off with long enough tail to weave in later (8 inches or so).
If you want to make the wing as all one piece incorporating the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover
do not fasten off.
At this point, you can decide if you want to make the wing panel together as one piece with the
Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover. This does not allow for a thumb in the top bend of the
wing wire, but you only need to sew on piece. Or if you want to make the wing panel separate
Page | 102
from the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover which creates a thumb in the top bend of the wing
but requires sewing on the Wing Wire Muscle Support Cover first, and then sewing on the
wing panel separately.
For the option to assemble the wing as all one piece without a thumb continue to next
instructions in the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
For the option to assemble the wing as separate panels with a muscle support cover and thumb
proceed to the section entitled Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Make 2
LEFT WING:
1. Ch 1, SC all the way to the left of where you are.
When you are making the Left Wing, you will be crocheting to the End Point of the wing. When
you reach the End Point, Ch 4, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next 2 Ch stitches, SC back
2. The Left Wing continues by single crocheting along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the
Center Point to the Base Point, and then switch to HDC stitches and continue to the Base Point.
When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle
point between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the Center
Point. This creates 2 rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
3. The Left Wing continues by crocheting from the Center Point to the Edge Point again. When you
reach the Edge Point, Ch 1, Turn, and then SC back to the Center Point. This creates a total of 4
rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Edge Point of the wing.
4. The Left Wing continues by single crocheting to 2 stitches before the middle point between the
Center Point to the Base Point. Switch to HDC and continue to the Base Point. When you reach the
Page | 103
Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the previous HDC stitches, switch to SC where
the HDC stitches end and SC to the Center Point. This creates a total of 4 rows of Body Color Yarn
along the Center to the Base Point of the wing.
5. To continue the Left Wing, Sl St in next stitch, Ch 1, Turn, Skip the slip stitch and single crochet
again from the Center Point all the way to the Base Point. When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2,
Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the Base Point and the
Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the center point. This creates 6 total rows of Body
Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the Wing. You finish at the End point.
Fasten off with approximately 30” of Yarn to use to sew the wing to the wing wire and secure the
wing to the body of the Dragon.
RIGHT WING:
1. When you are making the Right Wing, you will be crocheting toward the Base Point of the wing.
Single crochet till the middle point between the Center Point and the Base Point, then switch to
HDC as you continue to the Base Point. When you reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC
back along the Wing Edge to the middle point between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch
to SC and continue until you reach the Center Point. This creates 2 rows of Body Color Yarn along
the Center to Base Point of the wing.
2. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet along the wing edge from the Center Point to the End
Point (Capture extraneous yarn tails as you go if you can to avoid weaving in later). When you
reach the End Point, Ch 4, Turn, SC in 2nd Ch from hook, SC in next 2 Chain Stitches, SC back
3. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet to 2 stitches before the middle point between the Center
Point and the Base Point. Switch to HDC and continue to the Base Point. When you reach the Base
Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the previous HDC stitches, switch to SC and continue
to the Center Point. This creates 4 total rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of
the wing.
4. Then SC crochet from the Center Point to the End Point again. When you reach the End Point, Ch
1, Turn, and then SC back along the Wing Edge to the Center Point. This creates 4 total rows of
Body Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the wing.
5. To continue the Right Wing, single crochet from the Center Point to the Base Point. When you
reach the Base Point, Ch 2, Turn, and then HDC back along the Wing Edge to the middle point
between the Base Point and the Center Point, switch to SC and continue up to the center point. This
creates 6 Total rows of Body Color Yarn along the Center to Base Point of the wing.
Color Yarn along the Center to End Point of the wing. You finish at the End point. Fasten off with
approximately 3 ft. of yarn to use to sew the wing to the wing wire and secure the wing to the body
of the Dragon.
Page | 104
TEXT-ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: ALL ONE PIECE: Wire
Tools:
Darning Needle
Make 2
1. Bend support wire along the curvature of the wing edge. Do not be afraid to bend the wire to be
slightly longer than your relaxed crocheted wing is. It is good to stretch the edges of the crocheted
piece as you sew it around the wing wire a little bit – you do not want the wing to be loose on the
wire.
**Pro-Tip: Mark the wire at the edge of the wing panel

2. Insert the long straight part of the wire into the shoulder of the Dragon up to the mark you made.
Insert the matching wire opposite the first. Using thin strip of duct tape, wrap the two wires together
on either side of the Dragon body.
4. Pin the Wing in place around the wire and along the body of the dragon
5. Using Darning needle, stitch in place. Use tiny stitches. Pull the stitches tight. Encase the wire in
the crochet work fully all the way to the shoulder of the Dragon, and then anchor the rest of the wing
to the body along the spine of the Dragon.
TEXT ONLY: Dragon Wing Assembly: SEPARATE PIECES
Tools:
Body Color Yarn
‘G’ (4 mm)
Darning Needle
Make 2
1. Get out two Wires. Form the wire wings based on the template – And compare the wire you bend to
the assembled wing panels you’ve made so that it matches the necessary size. The template is a
guide, and it is a one-size-fits-most template. The size of the wing panels and necessary wire
framing depends heavily on the weight of the yarn you use, your hook, and your particular tension –
so the size will vary from artist to artist. Once you’ve bent the wire to appropriately match what the
template shows and custom fit to the wings you’ve made, make a mark on the wire at the edge of the
wing panel to indicate how deeply you should insert the wing into the Dragon Body.
2. Insert the first wire all the way in, through and out the other side of the Dragon Body in a location
Page | 105
just above/behind the shoulder up to the mark you made on the wire. See pictures for reference, but
you will have to determine where it looks best.
3. Insert the second wire opposite the first all the way in, through and out the other side of the Dragon
Body. Try to insert this second wire as very nearly exactly opposite the first as possible.
4. Cut a 6 inch length of Duct Tape. Rip the piece of Duct Tape in Half length wise to make two
equally long pieces of smaller width.
5. Attach one piece of Duct Tape right next to the Dragon Body around the Wing Wires and wrap the
tape repeatedly around the two wing wires wrapping away from the body fully attaching them up to
the first elbow of the wing shape. Repeat this process on the other side.
7. Make Part 1 and 2 of Wing Bone Muscle Support Pieces:
This piece is used to cover the wire support “bones” or wire for the wings from the shoulder of the
dragon up to the top elbow bend.
You will need to custom tailor this piece to fit the wings that you have made. The size of the wing
and your particular tension – so the size will vary from artist to artist. If you need more length in the
section by the shoulder, add rows of SC 8 between Row 6 and Row 8. If you need more (or less)
length in the section from the elbow bend to the top-most bend, you can add (or subtract) rows of 5
between Row 16 and 40. Using the Body Color, begin with a 18” tail that will be used to sew the
wing support to dragon body:
6. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn
7. SC 8, Ch 1, Turn
8. SC 8, Ch 2, Turn
40.
41. Dec, SC, Dec, Ch 1, Turn
43. SC 3
Page | 106
Fasten off with 24” long yarn tail and use to sew in place
This piece is used to cover the wire support “bones” for the Wings from the top elbow bend to the
wing tip.
You may need to custom tailor this piece to fit the Wings that you have made. The size of the wing
and your particular tension – so the size will vary from artist to artist. If you need more (or less)
length in this piece, you can add (or subtract) rows between row 2 and row 30.
Make 2 of these, start with a 12 inch tail that will be used to sew this piece to the previous wing
support:

30.
31. Trip SC Dec
Fasten off with 18 inch tail to sew it shut around the outer wire support.
8. Using the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 1, starting at the center bend of the wing wire, sew
the crocheted piece in place using a whip stitch.
9. OPTIONAL: Stuff the bottom of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 1 with Polyfil
You may not need to stuff the bottom of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece if you are wrapping
it around multiple wires at multiple entry points. The distance between the wires will take up all of
the space inside this crocheted piece.
10. Sew the base of the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece in place on the Dragon Body.
11. Repeat directions 8 – 10 on the other wing.
12. Using the Wing Bone Muscle Support Piece: Part 2, starting at the very end tip of the Wing Wire,
sew the crocheted piece in place using a whip stitch. When you reach the end, stitch it in place
connected to the Part 1 piece. Repeat this on the other wing.
13. Pin the Wings in place on the Dragon and, using left over tails from the Wing creation, stitch in
place.
**Pro-Tip: When you sew the wings in place, make sure that the connecting lines between the
wing panels attach at that center top point of the wings (Point Y on the diagram). Use the tails
of the Body Color yarn to do this so that they seem to seamlessly sprout from the Wing
supports.
Page | 107
Page | 108

ENGLISHDragonCrochetPatternbyCraftyIntentions2019

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

ENGLISHDragonCrochetPatternbyCraftyIntentions2019

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

ENGLISHDragonCrochetPatternbyCraftyIntentions2019

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Developed by Megan Lapp aka Crafty Intentions, this pattern is for a Dragon!!

It is recommended for intermediate skill

Spiral Horns: 4g or 8 yards in medium weight yarn

Long Cheek Frill: 2g or 4 yards in medium weight yarn

Short Cheek Frill/Eyebrow: 2g or 4 yards in medium weight yarn

Folded Ear: 4g or 8 yards in medium weight yarn

Fin Ear: 6g or 12 yards in medium weight yarn

Scales down the back: 8g or 16 yards in medium weight yarn

Belly: 30g or 60 yards in medium weight yarn

Size G (4mm) and E (3.5mm) Hooks

Go here for video demonstration:

For More information about Crafty Intentions, Go Here: www.craftyintentions.net

For More Add-On Patterns for the Dragon:

More Front Legs: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/add-on-dragon-more-front-legs

Epic Extra Large Wings: https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/add-on-dragon-epic-extra-large-wings

For related Video Tutorials from Crafty Intentions, Go Here:

© 2019 Megan Lapp. All rights reserved.

**Pro-Tip: These [Ch 2, SC in 2nd Ch from hook] instructions create nostrils. In

4. (SC 2, Inc) x 3, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

15. (SC 4, Dec) x 4, Sl St to beginning St, Ch 1 [20]

51. – 53. (3 Rounds of) SC 12, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

83. SC 28, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [28]

The “… Ch 1, Turn… Ch 1, Turn….” structure of a Rows 96 and onward are to

For video demonstration go here:

(Last Stitch of Row 96) (First Stitch of Row 97)

98. A. SC 11, Inc, SC 13, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 6, Ch 1, Turn

100. A. SC 7, Inc, SC 12, Dec x 2, SC 5, Ch 1, Turn

101. A. SC 7, Inc, SC 10, Dec x 2, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn

102. A. SC 7, Inc, SC 9, Dec x 2, SC 4, Ch 1, Turn

104. A. SC 4, Inc, SC 13, Ch 1, Turn

C. SC 2, Dec, SC, Dec, SC 2 [18]

106. SC, Dec, SC 5, Dec, SC 4, Inc, SC 3 [17]

107. SC 5, Dec, SC 7, Inc, SC 2 [17]

108. SC 4, Dec x 2, SC 6, Inc, SC 2 [16]

C. SC 10, Inc, SC 3 [15]

110. A. Dec, SC, Dec, SC, Dec, Ch 1, Turn

111. SC 2, Dec, SC 5, Inc, SC 3 [13]

112. A. SC 2, Dec, SC 2, Ch 1, Turn

**NOTE: The following Row (113) is optional

4. Inc, SC 5, Dec, SC 4, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

7. SC 2, Inc, SC 2, Inc, SC, Dec (F), Inc, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

19. SC 5, Dec, Dec, SC 8, Inc (F), SC 2, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [19]

Front Leg pinned in place: side & front view

Finished Dragon, front legs sewn on.

2. SC 3, Inc, SC 6, Inc, SC 3 [16]

2. SC 12, Sl St to beginning Stitch, Ch 1 [12]

Pictured: Top of foot/toes

Pictured: Bottom of foot/toes

The back part of the foot should be 2-dimensionally flat.

Dragon Back Leg: Rear Leg for Standing Position

PART 1: Use contrasting color to body color

2. SC in 1st Stitch around previous round’s Sl St, SC 2, HDC 2, DC, Ch 2, Turn

3. DC, HDC 2, SC 2, Sl St in last available Stitch, Ch 1, Turn

2. Dec in 1st and 2nd Open space on Edge Z,

3. Dec on Edge Z, Sl St along space between Row 4 & 5 of

Fasten off with 12” yarn tail

Start with 12” yarn tail to use to attach and weave in

Pin in place along the center of the back of the Dragon

Dragon Wings: STYLE ONE: Part 1A

2. Attach Yarn at Point X, SC up to Point Y along the side of 1A