BỘ GIÁO DỤC VÀ ĐÀO TẠO

TRƯỜNG ĐẠI HỌC KINH TẾ QUỐC DÂN

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INDIVIDUAL ASSIGMENT
INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

Name: Nguyễn Ngọc Mai

Class: Advanced Accounting 64
Student ID: 11224045
Lecturer: Assoc. Prof. Doc. Bùi Huy Nhượng
 Hanoi, October 2024

Table of Contents
A. INTRODUCTION..................................................................................................1
B. ORIGINAL ARTICLE............................................................................................2
Cheap clothing at what cost?....................................................................................3
A seamless transition to sustainability.....................................................................4
The critical crackdown..............................................................................................5
C. ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY........................................................................6
1. Aim and research method.....................................................................................6
2. Scope of the Research............................................................................................6
3. The usefulness of the Research to the topic.........................................................6
4. Limitations of the Research..................................................................................7
D. CONCLUSION.........................................................................................................8
A. INTRODUCTION

The article by Taylor Brydges dives into the critical issue of environmental
sustainability within the fashion industry, with a particular emphasis on the
alarming surge of ultra-fast fashion. As a Research Principal at the University of
Technology Sydney, Brydges possesses extensive knowledge and expertise, which
she brings to this important discussion. She thoroughly examines the harmful
effects of this trend, highlighting its negative consequences on both the
environment and labor practices. The rapid production cycles and disposable nature
of ultra-fast fashion contribute significantly to pollution, waste, and exploitation of
workers. This article is essential for anyone seeking to understand the urgent need
for reform in the fashion industry. It serves as a valuable resource for individuals
who are concerned about sustainable practices and responsible consumption. By
raising awareness of these pressing issues, Brydges encourages readers to consider
their choices and advocate for a more sustainable future in fashion.

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B. ORIGINAL ARTICLE

Title: Ultra-fast fashion is a disturbing trend undermining efforts to make the

whole industry more sustainable

Since the 1990s, fast fashion (Vertica Bhardwaj, Ann Fairhurst, 2010) has
enabled everyday people to buy the latest catwalk trends. But the sheer volume of
garments being whipped up, sold and soon discarded is contributing to a global
sustainability crisis. (Rachel Bick, Erika Halsey, Christine C. Ekenga, 2018)

Now, just when the fashion industry should be waking up and breaking free of
this vicious cycle, it’s heading in the opposite direction. We’re on a downward spiral,
from fast fashion to ultra-fast fashion (Tulin Dzhengiz, Teresa Haukkala, Olli
Sahimaa, 2023). The amount of natural resources consumed and waste produced is
snowballing (Kirsi Niinimäki, Greg Peters, Helena Dahlbo, Patsy Perry, Timo
Rissanen, Alison Gwilt , 2020).

Ultra-fast fashion is marked by even faster production cycles, blink-and-you’ll-

miss-it trends, and poor labour practices (Tam, 2023). Brands like Shein, Boohoo and
Cider are liberated from the concept of seasonal collections. Instead they
are producing garments at breakneck speeds (Dieleman, 2023) and self-
generating microtrends (Spellings, 2023) such as balletcore, Barbiecore and even
mermaidcore. At the same time there is limited transparency or accountability (Lucas
Ramos Camargo, Susana Carla Farias Pereira, Marcia Regina Santiago Scarpin, 2020)
around clothing supply chains.

The overproduction and consumption of clothing (Niessen, 2022) cannot be

allowed to continue. Without change, the industry will account for 26% of the world’s
carbon budget for limiting global warming to 2°C by 2050. The fashion industry must
take responsibility for its actions. Policymakers also have an important role to play in
enabling the necessary shift towards a more responsible and circular fashion economy.
And let’s not forget the power of consumers.

The dark side of Shein’s success (China Tonight, ABC News):

https://youtu.be/eIuM6lykHxc

Read more: To make our wardrobes sustainable, we must cut how many new
clothes we buy by 75%

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Cheap clothing at what cost?
It was once thought the pandemic would trigger a transition to a more
sustainable fashion industry. Unfortunately in reality the industry is getting worse, not
better.

Most ultra-fast fashion brands emerged in the late 2010s following the most
well known, Shein, founded in 2008. These online, direct-to-consumer brands
exploded in popularity during lockdowns, with Shein holding the title of the world’s
most popular brand in 2020.

Established brands such as Gap introduce 12,000 new items a year and H&M
25,000 (Vara, 2022). But Shein leaves them in the dust, listing 1.3 million items in the
same amount of time. How is this even possible?

The ultra-fast fashion model thrives on data and addictive social media
marketing (Mahmood, 2022) to create insatiable consumer demand.

But Shein’s incredibly low prices (its website has thousands of items under
A$5) come at a human cost. The company’s own 2021 Sustainability and Social
Impact Report (later removed from the site) found only 2% of its factories and
warehouses met its own worker safety standards, (Michie, 2023) with the rest
requiring corrective action.

The brand has also forgone in-house designers. Instead it works with
independent suppliers who can design and manufacture a garment in two weeks.

The result is an incredibly profitable business model. Shein filed for an initial
public offering (IPO) last year to value the brand at US$136 billion, up from US$2.5
billion in 2018.

How Shein Built a $66B Fast-Fashion Empire (WSJ): https://youtu.be/gWotBPtsulo?

si=Sy7kfR2MWNTA6cQ_

Shifting from fast to ultra-fast fashion has serious environmental and social
consequences. This includes even more exploitative labour practices. Shein garment
workers reportedly work 75-hour weeks and warehouses operate 24/7 (Zürich,
Lausanne, 2021).

Ignoring this shift isn’t just a fashion faux pas. Doing so jeopardises national
efforts for a more sustainable fashion industry.

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Read more: Fast Fashion: Why garment workers' lives are still in danger 10 years
after Rana Plaza — Podcast

A seamless transition to sustainability

A national product stewardship scheme called Seamless promises to transform
the fashion industry by 2030.

The idea is to bring fashion into the circular economy. Ultimately that means
zero waste, but in the meantime raw materials would be kept in the supply chain for as
long as possible by designing out and minimising waste.

Members will contribute a four-cent levy for every clothing item they produce
or import.

These funds go into clothing collection, research, recycling projects and

education campaigns.

BIG W, David Jones, Lorna Jane, Rip Curl, R.M. Williams, THE
ICONIC, Sussan Group and Cotton On are Seamless Foundation Members. Each
has contributed A$100,000 (Tiger, 2023) to the development of the scheme.

As one of the world’s first industry-led collective product stewardship

initiatives for clothing textiles, Seamless presents a unique opportunity to drive change
towards a more sustainable and circular fashion industry.

But there is a risk ultra-fast fashion brands may act as freeriders in Seamless,
benefiting from the investment and initiatives without making meaningful
contributions. Shein and others will continue putting more and more product on the
market, which will need to be dealt with at the end of its short life. But if they fail to
commit to the scheme, they won’t be the ones paying for that.

Seamless must also recognise ultra-fast fashion in tackling the industry’s

environmental and social sustainability challenges. At the moment they’re only talking
about fast fashion and ignoring the rise of ultra-fast fashion. Their global scan, for
example, includes a discussion of fast fashion and no mention of ultra-fast fashion.

This also points to a lack of data more broadly in the industry but in the case of
Seamless, it could have a big impact if this growing market segment is ignored.

Shein and Temu are estimated to earn a combined $2 billion in sales in 2024
(Ainsworth, 2024), with customers from all walks of life.

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Read more: Fast fashion's waste problem could be solved by recycled textiles but
brands need to help boost production

The critical crackdown

Some brands are actively engaged and working towards a more sustainable future
(Ignacio, 2024). But others such as Temu are learning from Shein and looking to
emulate their business model.

The transition to a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry requires a

greater understanding of ultra-fast fashion, urgent systemic changes and collective
efforts.

The Institute for Sustainable Futures, where I work, is a founding member of an

international academic research network aimed at tackling the complexities of ultra-
fast fashion. That includes how ultra-fast fashion is affecting the livelihoods of
garment workers, how it’s fuelling textile waste and underscoring the industry’s
struggle to embrace circular economy principles. We’re also investigating how to
reshape consumer behaviour, away from social media-fuelled hauls towards more
sustainable consumption particularly among Gen-Z consumers.

Last month, Federal Environment Minister Tanya Plibersek announced a potential

intervention, perhaps by introducing minimum environmental standards or a clothing
levy by July.

The clock is ticking. It is time to lay the foundation for a more sustainable and just
fashion industry. Australia has a rich fashion history (Taylor Brydges, Lisa Heinze,
Monique Retamal, 2021) and is home to many leading local brands – many of whom
have gone global. These brands show us what is possible when good design,
sustainability and innovation drive an industry.

Ultimately, our collective choices wield immense power. By understanding the

consequences of our fashion habits and advocating for change, we can all be catalysts
for a more sustainable and just fashion industry.

JOURNAL REFERENCE

Brydges, T. (2024). Ultra-fast fashion is a disturbing trend undermining efforts to

make the whole industry more sustainable. [online] The Conversation. Available
at: https://theconversation.com/ultra-fast-fashion-is-a-disturbing-trend-
undermining-efforts-to-make-the-whole-industry-more-sustainable-224253.

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 C. ANNOTATED BIBLIOGRAPHY
1. Aim and research method
This report aims to analyze the rising trend of ultra-fast fashion and its
detrimental effects on both environmental sustainability and labor practices. The
research delves into how brands such as Shein and Boohoo operate under accelerated
production cycles, driven by consumer demand for rapidly changing styles. These
brands have revolutionized the way fashion is produced and consumed, often
prioritizing speed over ethical considerations.

The methods employed in this research include a comprehensive review of industry

reports, a detailed analysis of supply chain practices, and an assessment of labor
conditions in garment factories. By utilizing these approaches, the research provides
valuable insight into the urgent need for a shift towards more sustainable practices in
the fashion industry. It emphasizes that understanding these dynamics is crucial for
anyone interested in the future of fashion and its impact on the planet.

2. Scope of the Research

The research covers various dimensions of ultra-fast fashion, contrasting it with
traditional fast fashion. It focuses on how the industry has evolved from producing
seasonal collections to generating numerous microtrends with minimal transparency.
This shift has significant implications for both the environment and labor practices.
The investigation highlights the environmental consequences of this model,
particularly its contribution to global carbon emissions and the alarming increase in
textile waste. For instance, the production of cheap, disposable clothing leads to a
cycle of consumption that is unsustainable in the long run. It also explores the
exploitation of labor, including long hours, inadequate wages, and poor working
conditions, underscoring the urgent need for reform in the industry. The research
paints a stark picture of the realities faced by workers in garment factories, many of
whom endure harsh conditions to meet the demands of ultra-fast fashion brands.

3. The usefulness of the Research to the topic

The findings of this research are highly suitable to discussions on sustainability
in the fashion industry. By illustrating the harmful impacts of ultra-fast fashion, the
research serves as a critical resource for policymakers, industry leaders, and
consumers alike. It emphasizes the role of consumers in driving demand for
sustainable practices while highlighting the necessity for regulatory interventions.
Consumers have the power to influence brands by making informed choices about
their purchases. Additionally, the report points to initiatives like Australia's Seamless
product stewardship scheme as potential pathways to promote circular economies in
fashion. Such initiatives encourage the recycling and repurposing of materials, which
can significantly reduce waste and environmental impact. The research ultimately

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serves as a call to action, urging all stakeholders to consider their roles in fostering a
more sustainable fashion landscape.

4. Limitations of the Research

Despite its comprehensive approach, the research encounters significant
limitations that must be acknowledged. A major challenge is the lack of reliable data
regarding the full impact of ultra-fast fashion, particularly concerning labor practices
and environmental degradation. Many brands operate with little transparency, making
it difficult to assess their true impact on workers and the environment. The study also
identifies a gap in current sustainability initiatives, which often fail to address the
specific challenges posed by ultra-fast fashion brands. For example, many existing
regulations focus on traditional fast fashion without considering the unique dynamics
of ultra-fast fashion. Furthermore, the regional focus of the research may overlook
important dynamics in global markets, where regulatory standards can vary
significantly. This lack of a global perspective can limit the applicability of the
findings to different contexts, making it essential for future research to adopt a more
inclusive approach.

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D. CONCLUSION

The report highlights the pressing need for systemic changes in the fashion
industry to combat the negative effects of ultra-fast fashion. It calls for collective
action from consumers, policymakers, and industry stakeholders to foster a more
sustainable and ethical fashion landscape. Without significant reforms, the fashion
industry risks perpetuating environmental degradation and social inequities. As the
research underscores, a transition toward sustainability is not just beneficial but
essential for the future of the industry. The challenges posed by ultra-fast fashion are
complex and multifaceted, requiring a concerted effort from all parties involved. By
working together, it is possible to create a fashion industry that prioritizes
sustainability, ethical labor practices, and environmental responsibility. The future of
fashion depends on our ability to adapt and innovate in response to these pressing
challenges.

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