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Great Food Finds San Francisco Delicious Food from the
City s Top Eateries 49th Edition Jung Digital Instant
Download
Author(s): Jung, Carolyn
ISBN(s): 9781493028146, 1493028146
Edition: 49
File Details: PDF, 6.44 MB
Year: 2018
Language: english
great
food SAN FRANCISCO
finds
great
food SAN FRANCISCO
finds
Delicious Food from
the City’s Top Eateries

Carolyn Jung
Photography by Craig Lee

Guilford, Connecticut
An imprint of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.
4501 Forbes Blvd., Ste. 200
Lanham, MD 20706
www.rowman.com Distributed by NATIONAL BOOK NETWORK

Copyright © 2018 by The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc.

Photography by Craig Lee (except for page ii © Nickolay Stanev/Shutterstock.com)

Excerpted from San Francisco Chef’s Table by Caroline Jung.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means,
including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer
who may quote passages in a review.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available


Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Available

ISBN 978-1-4930-2813-9 (paperback)


ISBN 978-1-4930-2814-6 (e-book)

The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information
Sciences—Permanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.

Printed in the United States of America

Restaurants and chefs often come and go, and menus are ever-changing. We recommend you call ahead
to obtain current information before visiting any of the establishments in this book.
To my late parents, who nurtured my appetite
for life with their soulful cooking and high standards
in everything that they did.
To my older brothers, who indulged my sweet tooth, then and now.
To my husband, my inseparable companion who has accompanied me on so many
food adventures with humor, cheer, and support.
To all the friends I’ve ever shared a wonderful and memorable meal with.
Thanks for having faith in me to make a most delicious dream come true.
vi GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO
CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . xiii
1300 on Fillmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Barbecue Shrimp ’n’ Grits
Absinthe Brasserie & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Black Garlic & Sourdough–Crusted Rack of Lamb with Roasted Pine Nut Relish
Acquerello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Wild Rhode Island Fluke, Osetra Caviar, Bergamot & Mint
All Spice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Roasted Lamb Loin with Olive & Smoky Eggplant Yogurt Terrine
Amber India Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Tandoori Chicken
Stuffed Portobello with Asparagus Paneer Bhurjee (Bhara Jungli Khumb)
Bix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Gin-Cured McFarland Springs Trout with Potato Pancakes, Sugar Snaps & Yuzu Marmalade
Bix Gin Martini
Calafia Cafe & Market A-Go-Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Duck Dumplings
Calafia Lacquered Short Ribs with Horseradish Mashed Potatoes & Creamed Kale
Camino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Grilled California White Sea Bass with Cucumbers, Anise Hyssop, Chrysanthemum & Chiles
Central Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Spring Vegetables with Rye Crumble, Goat’s Milk Curds & Whey
Comal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Beer-Marinated Carne Asada with Nopales & Chipotle Salsa
Coqueta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Dungeness Crab with Citrus Salad
Cotogna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Acquerello Carnaroli Risotto with Tomato, Zucchini & Their Blossoms
Craftsman and Wolves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Thai Mango Scones
Delfina Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Baked Ricotta with Zucchini Napoletana

vii
Duende . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Fideua with Liberty Duck, Wild Nettles & Aged Balsamico
Foreign Cinema . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Champagne Omelet with Raclette, Morels, Tarragon, & Crème Fraîche
Orecchiette with Chanterelles, Spinach, Walnuts, Shallots & Crème Fraîche
Frances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Grandma Frankie’s Peanut Brittle
Gather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Strawberry Kumquat Salad with Fava Shoots, Almonds & Vanilla Salt
Greens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Grilled Green Gulch Potatoes on Rosemary Skewers
Hopscotch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Beef Tataki Salad
Kokkari Estiatorio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Bourdeto from Corfu
La Folie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Cherry Panna Cotta
Cherry & Pistachio Biscotti
Michael Mina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Schmitz Ranch Prime Steak Tartare with Marin Radish & Crispy Potato Cake
M.Y. China . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Crispy Noodles with X.O. Chicken & Bok Choy
Namu Gaji . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Onion Pickles
Mushroom Terrine
Nopalito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Ensalada de Nopales
Oliveto Restaurant & Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Tajarin with Ragù of Porcini Mushrooms
Hazelnut Semifreddo
One Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Braised Lamb Ragout with Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Ravioli
Bradley’s Butterscotch Pudding
Parallel 37 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Duck Confit & Tofu Dressing
Rhubarb Jam, Cold Broth, Green Tea Ice Cream & Toasted Pistachios
Pig ’n’ Boots

viii CONTENTS
Perbacco Ristorante & Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Slow-Roasted Pork Shoulder with Porcini Mushrooms & Apples
Brown Butter & Sage Potato Puree
Buttermilk Cake with Honey Caramel
Pica Pica Arepa Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Chupe (Andean Chicken & Vegetable Soup)
Reina Pepeada (Avocado–Chicken Salad Filling)
Arepas
Piperade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139
Roasted Pacific Albacore in Bacon with Green Pepper & Sherry Compote
Prospect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Chocolate Mudslide Cookies
Rich Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Mint Chocolate Sablé with Mint Chocolate Cream & Iced Milk
Spice Kit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150
Spice Kit Breakfast Rice Bowl
SPQR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154
“Baccalà,” Artichoke Mustard, Radish, Ice Plant & Pike Roe
Spruce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
Fig-Leaf-Wrapped Pacific Salmon, Sweet Corn Fondue, Summer Salad & Sauce Vierge
State Bird Provisions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Glazed Pork Ribs with Scallions & Togarashi
Chocolate Mint Granita with Honey Crème Fraîche
Swan Oyster Depot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170
Calamari Salad
Town Hall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174
Town Hall’s Jerk Chicken
Max’s Mac & Cheese with Bacon & Broccoli
Waterbar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
Grilled Monterey Squid with Italian Butter Beans, Chorizo & Basil Pesto
Coconut Tapioca Brûlée

INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
ABOUT THE AUTHOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192

CONTENTS ix
INTRODUCTION

W
hat do you call a region where a guy who peddles homemade crème brûlées from a
pushcart can find fame and fortune, where people think nothing of waiting in line for
half an hour for a cup of cult coffee dripped to order, where molecular gastronomy is
as revered as DIY canning, and where the latest restaurant happenings are scrutinized
more closely than the S&P 500?
The San Francisco Bay Area, of course.
Residents and visitors alike may be lured to the glorious city by the bay for its majestic
Golden Gate Bridge, its picturesque skyline, its always comfortable climate, and its
accomplished ballet, symphony, and sports teams. But perhaps they are drawn even more by
its world-class food scene.
Arguably this is the place where culinary trends start first, only to eventually spread
across the rest of the nation.
It is the ultimate foodie destination. It’s where farm-to-table, snout-to-tail, and root-to-
shoot cooking is not only a movement but a way of life. It’s where chefs pride themselves on
supporting local farmers, family-owned ranches, esoteric foragers, small-batch food producers,
and sustainable seafood practices. It’s where local farmers’ markets are the envy of the rest of
the country, as they operate year-round and proffer everything from delicate olallieberries to
exotic Buddha’s hand to Japanese ume sour plums.
It’s the home of California cuisine (its birthplace the landmark Chez Panisse in Berkeley);
worship-worthy Blue Bottle Coffee (with branches now in New York); the singular Mission
Chinese restaurant (also now in New York); superb sourdough bread; history-making vintners;
and even a roving 5,000-pound behemoth pizza oven on wheels (the amazing Del Popolo food
truck).
Some of the most talented chefs in the world choose to ply their craft here: Alice Waters,
Michael Chiarello, Chris Cosentino, David Kinch, Hubert Keller, Matthew Accarrino, and so
many others. It’s a place where the century-old tiny seafood counter known as Swan Oyster
Depot can prosper alongside such modernist marvels as Atelier Crenn, Saison, and Coi, where
cooking soars to high art.
The Bay Area is made up of nine counties with more than 7 million people. San Francisco,
the only municipality in California that is both a city and a county, is home to more than
825,000 residents of a staggering diversity. More than 112 languages are spoken in the

xiii
metropolitan area. In the nineteenth century, immigrants were lured here to build the railways
and to stake a claim in the Gold Rush. Now, many flock here to seek success in high tech.
No matter where they hail from, they bring along their customs and cuisines, as well as a
hearty appetite for incorporating the familiar with the new. That’s why you’ll find food trucks,
hole-in-the-wall joints, and fine dining establishments offering up everything from Salvadoran
pupusas, Oaxacan mole, Himalayan curry, Shanghai dumplings, and Filipino crispy pata to
Indian collard green dosas, New York steaks napped with Persian-influenced chimichurri, and
Sri Lankan crisp pancake “hoppers” cradling fiery sambol and organic soft-cooked eggs.
San Francisco boasts more than two dozen distinct neighborhoods, each with its own
flavor—from mom-and-pop taquerias alongside hipster bars in the Mission District to the
crowded teahouses and live-seafood markets in Chinatown (the oldest one in North America)
and the ramen masters and mochi confectioners in historic Japantown (one of only three
remaining Japanese enclaves in the United States).
Cross the Bay Bridge to find the phenomenon known as Oakland. Considered the “new
Brooklyn,” it has seen its share of growing pains, most notably skyrocketing crime. But the
scrappy, can-do city also has turned into one of Bay Area’s most exciting dining destinations.
With more affordable rents and lower labor costs, chefs and restaurateurs have zeroed in
on Oakland as the place to be. Newcomers include the Spanish-inflected Duende and the
Japanese-influenced Hopscotch diner, which have joined the Michelin-starred Commis,
founded in 2009.
Winemakers also have discovered the advantages to be had across the bridge. Two dozen
urban wineries—mostly family-owned boutique operations—have set up shop in the East
Bay in the past few years, with about half of them in Oakland. After all, the East Bay is just a
few hours away from every major wine-growing region in the state, making it easy to source
grapes. What’s more, facility costs have yet to reach the dizzying levels of the Napa or Sonoma
wine country. Continue south to the Peninsula, where restaurateurs are now launching second
outposts of successful San Francisco operations, finding the compact city too saturated for
more of the same.
The recipes in this book attempt to reflect the vast array of cuisines and styles of cooking
to be found in the Bay Area, from casual to haute, from no-nonsense to adventurous. Some
are definitely more challenging than others. Feel free to put your own spin on them by
substituting produce or ingredients more easily found in your own area. For instance, make
the ragù but save time by forgoing making your own pasta. Or streamline a dish by making
only its star component, then swapping out the extra flourishes with a simple salad, a loaf of
good crusty bread, or a sauté of your favorite greens. Some recipes also were altered for ease

xiv GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


of preparation, so some photos may not exactly match the look of the resulting home cook
version of the dish.
The restaurants are arranged alphabetically rather than by neighborhood, for ease of
use. Many of the more modernist cuisine establishments were purposely not included in this
book, not because they are unworthy, but because their dishes would be too cumbersome to
duplicate outside a professional kitchen with its highly specialized equipment. More than
anything, this cookbook is intended to inspire, to educate, and to actually be cooked from, not
merely to sit prettily on a coffee table.
Regrettably, Chez Panisse could not be included in the book. That storied landmark,
which has bestowed on the Bay Area more of a lasting legacy than any other restaurant since
it was founded in 1971, was just reopening at publication time after a devastating fire. Its
far-reaching philosophy of allowing stellar ingredients to shine for themselves on the plate,
though, continues at the many restaurants subsequently opened by chefs who once worked
the line there, including Russell Moore of Camino in Oakland.
No matter where you live, we invite you to pull up a chair to the to sample some of the
best this special city and region have to offer. Get to know a place that truly loves to eat—and
how.

INTRODUCTION xv
1300 on Fillmore

The golden age of jazz is alive and well—and served with a big dose of southern—at 1300 on
Fillmore.
The Fillmore neighborhood has long been one of the city’s most vibrant entertainment
districts, as well as one of its most culturally diverse. In its heyday its performance venues
attracted headliners such as Sammy Davis Jr., Charlie Parker, and Billie Holiday.
When husband and wife David Lawrence and Monetta White opened 1300 on Fillmore in
2007, they sought to bring back some of that glamour of yesteryear. Step inside and discover
just how well their vision has succeeded. The gorgeous restaurant features a lounge with
dramatic walls of backlit black-and-white photos of jazz icons such as John Handy and Louis
Armstrong. The elegant dining room has tufted black leather banquettes, floor-to-ceiling
drapery, and artful displays of bare, wintery branches.
White, who’s usually on hand to greet diners, is a third-generation San Franciscan, while
Lawrence was born in London of Jamaican roots and trained in French techniques. As a result,
this is southern food that’s quite refined, as evident in the black skillet fried chicken that’s
boned, brined, and dredged in organic corn flour before being fried to order.
Of course, jazz bands play regularly in the lounge. But one of the most wonderful ways to
experience the spirit of the restaurant is to come for the Sunday gospel brunch. It started out
being held once a month. It proved so wildly popular that it’s now offered every Sunday at two
seatings, 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. Couples and families crowd in to listen and clap along as the band
belts out gospel hymns and more contemporary pieces.

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 1


It’s a rousing way to start a Sunday, especially while sipping a house-made Bloody Mary
and digging into a fried catfish po’boy, cinnamon brioche French toast, classic shrimp and
grits, and a warm triangle of cornbread.
1300 Fillmore Street, San Francisco, CA 94115, (415) 771-7100, 1300fillmore.com

BARBEQUE SHRIMP ’N’ GRITS


(Serves 4)

To make the grits: Place milk and water in a 2-quart saucepan


FOR THE GRITS: over medium-high heat. When the mixture boils, add the grits and
2 cups whole milk salt and reduce the heat to medium. Stir constantly until the grits
2 cups water are the consistency of thick soup and release a fragrant sweet-corn
1 cup stone-ground grits perfume, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer,
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to stirring every 2–3 minutes, for about 20 minutes, until the grits
taste thicken and fall lazily from the end of the spoon. Cook about 15
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black minutes more, stirring constantly to prevent the grits from sticking
pepper, or to taste to the bottom of the pan.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup cream When the grits are soft, creamy, and fluffy, turn off the heat. Add
the pepper, butter, and cream; stir to incorporate. Taste and adjust
FOR THE SHRIMP: the seasoning.
24 medium shrimp, shelled and
deveined To cook the shrimp: Season the shrimp with salt and pepper.
Salt and freshly ground black
Place olive oil in a large pan over high heat. When the oil is hot, add
pepper to taste
the shrimp. Sauté for 1 minute. (Do not overcook.) Remove shrimp
1 tablespoon olive oil
from pan and set aside.
1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced In the same pan on medium heat, cook the chopped shallot and
1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce garlic until soft. Add Worcestershire and white wine to deglaze the
2 tablespoons dry white wine pan, scraping up any caramelized bits on the sides and bottom of
1 cup heavy cream the pan. Allow the liquid to simmer and reduce by about half. Add
1 tablespoon butter cream; again allow to reduce by half.
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs,
such as parsley and thyme Stir in shrimp and butter. Turn off the heat and add minced herbs.
Serve immediately over the grits.

2 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Absinthe Brasserie
& Bar
There’s just something innately cool about a restaurant named for a once illicit high-octane
spirit mistakenly thought to induce madness. At this Belle Epoque–style brasserie, though, it’s
the food and drink you’ll go mad for.
Antique mirrors, century-old absinthe posters, and a large mural of a busy cafe dining
room that hangs inside the actual dining room create a playful, stylish environment. The
lively Hayes Valley restaurant is almost always packed, especially before curtain time for the
symphony and ballet at the nearby Civic Center performance halls.
Absinthe can definitely be found among the ingredients in the expert cocktails here. Sip
a classic Sazerac, in which the cocktail glass is first rinsed with “the green fairy” to impart the
unmistakable anise-botanical notes. Be sure to order the soft garlic pretzels to go along with
it. Warm, soft, with crunchy rock salt sprinkled on top, these pretzel nubbins are drizzled with
garlic butter and accompanied by a ramekin of rich, gooey Vermont cheddar Mornay sauce for
dunking. Pretzel perfection.
Ordinary bistro food this is not. The coq au vin is no run of the mill version. Here, the red-
wine-braised chicken has real depth of flavor with its velvety sauce that clings to every morsel
of moist chicken. The signature burger is justly famous, the Angus patty adorned with aioli,
house-made pickles, and even a fried egg, if you like.
398 Hayes Street, San Francisco, CA 94102, (415) 551-1590, absinthe.com

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 3


BLACK GARLIC & SOURDOUGH–CRUSTED RACK OF LAMB
WITH ROASTED PINE NUT RELISH
(Serves 4)

To make the spice rub: In a small sauté pan over medium heat,
FOR THE LAMB SPICE RUB: lightly toast peppercorns, cumin seeds, fenugreek, coriander seeds,
1 tablespoon black peppercorns and fennel seeds, shaking the pan every 20 seconds or so, until
1 teaspoon cumin seeds fragrant and aromatic, about 2 minutes.
2 teaspoons fenugreek
2 teaspoons coriander seeds Allow to cool. Grind in a clean coffee grinder or in a mortar and
1 teaspoon fennel seeds pestle. Place in a small bowl and stir in the kosher salt and brown
8 tablespoons kosher salt sugar. Rub lamb generously with spice mixture and refrigerate for
2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 hours.

FOR THE LAMB: To make the black garlic puree: In a small saucepan, cook
2–3 frenched racks of domestic black garlic and water on medium heat until garlic is soft enough
lamb (about 11/2 pounds each, to puree, about 12–15 minutes. In a blender, puree water and garlic
with 7–8 bones each and 1/4- to form a paste. Reserve. If making ahead of time, store in the
inch layer of fat) refrigerator, but let come to room temperature before using. (You
will have more than enough black garlic puree for the lamb recipe.
Use it in other dishes, including folding into mashed potatoes.)
FOR BLACK GARLIC PUREE:
1 cup peeled black garlic cloves To make the black garlic mustard: In a small bowl, mix all
(see Note) ingredients until incorporated.
2 cups water

FOR THE BLACK GARLIC


MUSTARD:
2 tablespoons black garlic puree
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon honey
Small pinch of salt

4 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


To make the bread crumbs: Preheat oven to 200°F.
FOR THE SOURDOUGH BREAD
CRUMBS: Remove crust from the sourdough loaf. Cut bread into 1-inch cubes
1 loaf of 2-to-3-day-old and place on a sheet tray. Bake until very dry but not brown, about
sourdough (enough to yield 4 25 minutes.
cups of bread crumbs)
2 tablespoons fresh thyme Let cool, then grind in a food processor until finely ground.
leaves, roughly chopped
In a large bowl, combine 4 cups of bread crumbs with thyme, butter,
1 tablespoon butter, melted
extra-virgin olive oil, and salt and pepper. Set aside.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black To make the pine nut relish: Preheat oven to 350°F.
pepper, to taste
Place pine nuts in a baking pan and roast for 3–5 minutes, until light
FOR THE PINE NUT RELISH: golden brown. Allow to cool.
1 cup pine nuts
1/4 cup roughly chopped parsley In a medium bowl, mix pine nuts with rest of the relish ingredients.
1 tablespoon roughly chopped (The relish can be prepared 1–2 hours in advance.)
thyme leaves
To prepare the lamb: Pull the lamb out of the refrigerator and
1 tablespoon roughly chopped
bring to room temperature (about 1 hour).
oregano leaves
1 clove garlic, smashed to a Preheat oven to 400°F.
paste in a mortar and pestle
with a pinch of salt Heat a large sauté pan on medium heat for 2 minutes. When the
1 lemon, juice and zest pan is heated, add 2 tablespoons canola oil and shake to distribute
11/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil it throughout the pan.
Salt and black pepper to taste
Add one rack of lamb, fat side down, and begin to render the fat.
The lamb should be cooking slowly, not smoking or browning very
FOR THE REST OF THE DISH:
quickly. If need be, adjust the heat lower.
4–6 tablespoons canola oil,
divided Caramelize the meat on all sides until golden brown. Remove lamb
1 tablespoon sea salt to a flat roasting rack set inside a roasting pan. Wipe out the sauté
pan. Repeat the process with each remaining lamb rack, adding 2
tablespoons canola oil to the pan first.

Roast lamb in the oven for 6–8 minutes or until the center reads
110°F on a meat thermometer. (Time may vary, based on the size of
the lamb racks.)

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 5


Remove pan from oven and allow lamb to rest on the roasting rack
for about 30 minutes until cooled. Keep the oven on at 400°F.

With a clean pastry brush, spread black garlic mustard generously


all over the lamb; do not brush the bones. Next, coat the lamb
heavily with the sourdough crumbs. Press and coat all sides, leaving
the bones clean.

Return to the roasting rack in the roasting pan. Roast for another
8–12 minutes until an internal temperature of 125–128°F is
reached.

Remove lamb from the oven. Let rest for 10–15 minutes. The
internal temperature of the meat after resting will be about 135°F
(medium-rare).

To serve: With a sharp carving knife, slice lamb between the


bones. Arrange lamb on plates, dividing them up so that each
person gets three or four bones. Sprinkle sea salt over the sliced
lamb and top with pine nut relish.

Note: Whole bulbs of garlic are fermented at high heat to create


black garlic. Its texture is soft, chewy, and almost jelly-like. Its
flavor is sweet with hints of balsamic vinegar, molasses, and
tamarind notes. Black garlic, used most often in Asian cooking, is
sold in packages and tubs at Asian markets, upscale grocery stores,
and specialty online retailers.

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 7


San Francisco’s Fabled Loaf
Thick-crusted, wonderfully chewy, and possessed of an unmistakable tang,
sourdough bread is one of this city’s most defining foods. Whether smeared
with sweet butter or dunked into clam chowder, it is an iconic San Francisco
treat that just can’t be beat.
Its storied history coincides with the 1848 California Gold Rush.
Prospectors working in rough-and-tumble conditions couldn’t rely on
conventional yeast leavenings to make bread, so they took to carrying a
pouch of starter around instead.
In 1849 the Boudin French Bakery set up shop to bake fresh rounds
of sourdough bread using French techniques to satisfy the needs of both
prospectors and city dwellers. Now known as Boudin Bakery (boudinbakery.
com), it boasts cafes throughout the Bay Area. To this day, every loaf of
sourdough is still baked with a portion of the original mother dough from
the very first loaf created by Boudin.
Nowadays you’ll find sourdough baked at other bakeries, too, including
the incomparable Acme Bread Company (acmebread.com), established by
Steve Sullivan, who famously got his start as a busboy at none other than
Chez Panisse before becoming its on-staff bread baker, then leaving to start
his own bakery business.

8 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Acquerello

Acquerello is where opulence reigns supreme. It puts the “special” in special occasion
dining—from the gilded, glass-domed cart laden with cheeses from every region of Italy to
the playful candy cart that rolls to the table bearing mini strawberry gelée parfaits, French
macarons, pâte de fruits, and chocolate truffle lollipops.
More than two decades old now, this San Francisco classic is still as relevant as ever. It is
Chef-Owner Suzette Gresham’s labor of love for Italian fine dining. Housed inside a former
chapel, the dining room is stunning, preserving a vaulted wood-beamed ceiling adorned with
ornate wrought iron. Copper sconces give off a romantic rosy glow.
Wine Director Gianpaolo Paterlini, son of owner Giancarlo Paterlini, may be all of 26,
but he knows his wines. A month after turning 21, he started interning at Michael Mina
restaurant in San Francisco, before working a harvest at a Santa Barbara winery. At Acquerello
he’s expanded the wine list to include two thousand selections, with an emphasis on Italian
varietals.
He’ll steer you to what pairs best, whether you choose the seasonal tasting menu or a prix
fixe of three, four, or five courses. Chef de Cuisine Mark Pensa will interject a few surprises
along the way, from a variety of amuse-bouches to a delicate fruit juice topped with vanilla
foam to transition from savory courses to dessert.
No matter how your dinner begins, it will end with a server presenting you with a precious
gift box of house-made almond biscotti to take home. It’s a wistful way of making your time at
Acquerello last just a little longer after you’ve walked reluctantly into the night.
1722 Sacramento Street, San Francisco, CA 94109, (415) 567-5432, acquerello.com

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 9


WILD RHODE ISLAND FLUKE, OSETRA CAVIAR, BERGAMOT & MINT
(Serves 6 as a First Course)

To make the bergamot oil: Start preparing this three days before
1 fresh whole bergamot (or using. With a peeler, remove the skin of the bergamot in wide
lemon or orange) strips, carefully avoiding the white pith. Place strips in a heat-
1 cup olive oil plus 4 resistant container. In a small saucepan over medium heat, place
tablespoons, divided 1 cup olive oil; heat until just under 300°F. Pour the oil over the
1 bunch fresh mint, whole leaves bergamot strips. Steep until cooled to room temperature, then cover
only and refrigerate.
11/2 pounds sushi-grade fluke
(or other white fish such as To cure the fish: On waxed paper, lay down a single layer of mint
halibut, bass, or sole), filleted, leaves large enough to accommodate the shape and size of the fish
skinned, and boned fillet. Place fish on top. Drizzle thoroughly with 4 tablespoons olive
Zest of 1 lemon oil. Sprinkle the lemon zest over the fish. Season with salt. Cover
Sea salt to taste with another single layer of mint leaves. Wrap the fillet tightly in
the waxed paper, keeping the mint in complete contact with the
FOR THE GARNISH: fillet. Wrap again in plastic wrap, covering completely. Refrigerate
Sea salt for 12 hours (the fish does not have to be weighted down). Flip the
6–8 leaves fresh mint, cut into fish over, then let cure for another 12 hours in the refrigerator. The
chiffonade fish will keep under the cure for a maximum of 4 days. (Alternative
Zest of 1 lemon Method: If you have a vacuum sealer, the fish can be compressed
2 ounces osetra caviar with the ingredients in a bag, refrigerated overnight, and ready to
Small handful of anise hyssop use the next day.)
microgreens or baby dill or
fennel fronds

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 11


To serve: Wipe all of the cure off the fish fillet. With a sharp knife,
thinly slice across the fillet at a slight diagonal angle.

Imagine a 4-inch-diameter circle in the middle of each plate. Pick


up the slices of fish one at a time and begin arranging them around
the exterior edge of the circle, working your way inward toward the
center just as you would when arranging apple slices on a tart.

Just before serving, drizzle a little bergamot oil over the fish, season
lightly with sea salt, scatter some freshly cut mint chiffonade and
lemon zest, and spoon some of the caviar into the center of the fish
slices. Garnish with a few anise hyssop microgreens.

12 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


All Spice

When the Delhi-reared Sachin Chopra set out to open his first restaurant in the Bay Area,
it was like no other Indian restaurant around.
All Spice offers no all-you-can-eat lunch buffet. Its dining rooms are intimate in scope, set
inside a quaint Victorian house with only 32 seats. Its wine program is laudable, headed up by
Chopra’s wife, Shoshana Wolff, who not only studied viticulture and enology at the University
of California at Davis but makes her own wine with her dad under the label Wolff & Father,
which is featured at the restaurant.
Moreover, none of the food will set your palate aflame. Chopra, who graduated from the
Culinary Institute of America and was a line cook at the illustrious Daniel in New York, uses
chilies sparingly and aggressive spices carefully while employing classical techniques. It’s not
traditional Indian or French food but a hybrid all his own. Consider: bison loin on a plate with
daikon puree and thrice-baked potato; wild boar cooked with ginger, fennel, and almonds; and
tandoori-spiced sweetbreads finished with lemon sabayon and miso mushroom duxelle.
Chopra was initially lured to California to become executive sous-chef at San Jose’s
Amber India Restaurant. That was where he met Wolff, who, in need of a job, walked into the
restaurant the day it opened and was hired immediately as a server. He won her heart—and her
stomach—with his home-cooked Cornish game hens, which he roasted after stuffing gobs of
butter underneath the skin, as he had learned to do at Daniel.
1602 South El Camino Real, San Mateo, CA 94402, (650) 627-4303, allspicerestaurant.com

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 13


ROASTED LAMB LOIN WITH OLIVE & SMOKY
EGGPLANT YOGURT TERRINE
(Serves 4)

To prepare the lamb loin: Carefully cut the lamb loin meat from
2 untrimmed racks of lamb (11/2 –2 the bones, keeping the loin whole. Reserve the bones. Trim the
pounds per rack, with 8 bones layer of fat from the top of each loin, leaving about 1⁄8 inch of fat.
each) Discard the rest of the fat. Cut each loin crosswise into two even
pieces.
FOR THE MARINADE:
1 tablespoon olive oil In a medium-sized bowl, combine all the marinade ingredients
1 teaspoon yellow mustard and mix well. Place the meat in the bowl with the marinade. Use
Zest of 1 lemon your hands to rub the marinade onto the meat, cover the bowl, and
1 bunch fresh thyme, leaves only refrigerate it for at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

To prepare the sauce: Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan


FOR THE SAUCE:
over medium-high heat. Brown the lamb bones in the oil, then add
1 tablespoon olive oil
the onion, carrots, and celery. Cook until the onions are translucent,
1 medium onion, chopped
about 5 minutes. Add the remaining sauce ingredients except the
1 small carrot, chopped
butter and flour, which you will use to thicken the sauce later. Stir
1 rib celery, chopped
well, then bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
2 cups red wine
for about 90 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning, until
6 cups water
the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups of liquid in addition to the
1/2 cup tomato paste
bones, vegetables, and herbs.
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 teaspoon whole black Strain the sauce through a fine sieve or a couple of layers of
peppercorns cheesecloth. Discard the vegetables and herbs but reserve the
Peel of 1 lemon cooked lamb bones. Return the strained sauce to the pot. In a small
1 tablespoon butter, at room bowl, mix the flour and butter together to form a paste; add it to the
temperature sauce. Heat gently, stirring to dissolve the paste completely, and
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour cook another 5 minutes or so until the sauce is nicely thickened.
(The sauce can be made ahead of time and reheated. Be sure to
keep it uncovered in the refrigerator until it has completely cooled.)

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 15


To prepare the kebab: Peel the meat scraps from the cooked
FOR THE LAMB KEBAB: lamb bones and place them in the bowl of a food processor along
1/2 cup white cheddar cheese, with the remaining kebab ingredients; process until a smooth, airy,
grated mousse-like consistency is achieved. Transfer the kebab mixture to
2 slices fresh bread, crusts the refrigerator to cool and solidify for about 1 hour. When it has
removed, cut into 1-inch firmed up, shape the mousse into four equal-sized patties. Place
cubes them on a plate lined with parchment paper, and refrigerate.
4 sprigs fresh mint, roughly
chopped To prepare the sunchoke puree: In a medium saucepan, heat
1 pinch cardamom powder the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté
2 pinches cumin powder until the onions are translucent. Add bouquet garni and chopped
2 tablespoons butter, melted sunchokes. Cook for about 5 minutes, then add stock and cream.
1 tablespoon heavy cream Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer about 30 minutes, until
vegetables are soft. Add Parmesan cheese, and season to taste
FOR THE SUNCHOKE PUREE: with salt and pepper. Remove bouquet garni and discard. Puree
1 tablespoon butter mixture in a food processor until smooth. (Can be made ahead of
1 medium white onion, chopped time and reheated. Be sure to keep it uncovered in the refrigerator
3 cloves garlic, peeled and until it has completely cooled.)
chopped
Bouquet garni (sprigs of To make the terrine: In a blender, puree the olives with 1–2
thyme, rosemary, sage, and tablespoons cold water to form a smooth paste; reserve.
a bay leaf wrapped in a
Pierce the eggplant a couple of times with a fork. Char it over an
cheesecloth and tied with
open flame or under a broiler. Let cool, then peel off the skin. Puree
kitchen twine)
the roasted eggplant; season with salt and pepper.
1/2 pound sunchokes, scrubbed
but not peeled, roughly In a small bowl, season the yogurt to taste with salt, cumin, and
chopped paprika.
1 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1/2 cup heavy cream Put about ¼ cup cold water in a small mixing bowl. Bloom the
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese gelatin by sprinkling it over the surface of the water, being careful
Salt and pepper not to mound the powder in one place. Let stand for 10 minutes,
then stir to completely dissolve the gelatin, heating gently if
necessary by adding a little warm water. Add about half of the
gelatin mixture to the yogurt, and stir well. Of the remaining gelatin
mixture, add three-quarters to the eggplant puree, then mix the
remainder into the olive puree.

16 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Line an 8 x 8-inch pan with plastic wrap. Pour the yogurt into the
FOR THE OLIVE AND SMOKY mold, and let it set in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Top the yogurt
EGGPLANT YOGURT gel with the eggplant puree, and return to the refrigerator for 30
TERRINE: minutes. Top the terrine with the olive purée. Again return it to
2 tablespoons chopped black the refrigerator to set. After several hours, use a very sharp knife
olives to carefully cut the terrine into four even squares. Wrap each in
1 small eggplant (about 1/2 pound) parchment paper and return them to the refrigerator until ready to
1 cup plain yogurt serve.
Salt, to taste
2 pinches roasted cumin powder To cook the lamb and assemble the dish: Remove the lamb
1 pinch smoked paprika powder loin meat from the refrigerator about 1 hour before you plan to cook
1 envelope powdered gelatin it. When ready, preheat oven to 400°F.

FOR THE ASSEMBLY: Gently reheat the sauce and the sunchoke puree, adding a little
Salt and pepper water or cream to thin them out if desired. Keep warm.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Scrape marinade from the meat, then liberally season with salt
1 tablespoon butter
and pepper. In a large oven-safe frying pan on high heat, add 1
1 tablespoon olive oil
tablespoon vegetable oil. Place the meat, fat side down, in the
16 shishito or Padrón peppers
hot pan and brown slightly. Turn the pieces over, and place the
pan in the oven. For medium-rare, cook until the center of the
meat registers 125°F, 10–15 minutes. For best results use a meat

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 17


thermometer. Pull the meat out of the oven and let it rest, covered
with foil in a warm place, at least 5 minutes.

In a nonstick frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon butter over medium


heat. Place the kebabs in the pan and allow them to brown, flipping
gently so that they color evenly on both sides and are heated
through. Loosely tent with foil to keep warm.

Just before you are ready to serve, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a
small sauté pan until it starts to smoke. Add the peppers, tossing
constantly until they are browned and blistered, about 2 minutes.
Remove them from the pan and season with salt.

On each of four plates, place a generous dollop of sunchoke puree


to one side. Cut each piece of lamb into thirds and arrange them
on top of the sunchokes. Place a kebab and a piece of the terrine
beside the lamb. Spoon a small amount of sauce over or around
the lamb, as you prefer. Any remaining sauce can be put into a
small pitcher or bowl and placed on the table for guests to help
themselves. Arrange four blistered peppers on each plate, and
serve.

18 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Amber India
Restaurant
In 1994 Vijay Bist stepped inside an abandoned Cajun restaurant in a nondescript strip
mall in suburban Mountain View and had a vision. Of an Indian restaurant with modern style.
With a sophisticated wine list, exemplary service, and a menu that honored the best of India’s
multifaceted cuisine while making the most of Northern California’s premier ingredients.
Bist, who studied hotel management in India and received an MBA from San Francisco
State University, made all that a reality. And he did it again and again. His Amber India
Corporation now operates seven contemporary Indian restaurants in the Bay Area, each with
its own look and feel.
The original Mountain View location, with its focus on classic Northern Indian cuisine,
continues to thrive even after all these years. It was followed in 2003 by the striking Amber
India Restaurant in San Jose’s Santana Row, with its planetarium-like ceiling of glittering
constellations, including shooting stars that streak across the “sky.” Then in 2007 Amber India
Restaurant opened with a splash in downtown San Francisco with gleaming onyx floors and its
own LED light show behind the bar.
25 Yerba Buena Lane, San Francisco, CA 94103, (415) 777-0500, amber-india.com

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 19


TANDOORI CHICKEN
(Serves 4)

Trim thigh meat of any excess fat. Cut each thigh into 2 or 3 pieces.
2 pounds boneless chicken The chicken will be marinated in a two-step process.
thighs
2 tablespoons ginger paste In a medium-sized bowl mix together the ginger paste, garlic paste,
2 tablespoons garlic paste lemon juice, and Kashmiri red chili powder. Transfer half of this
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed mixture to a small bowl, cover, and reserve in the refrigerator. Rub
lemon juice remaining mixture all over the chicken, distributing evenly. Cover
1 tablespoon Kashmiri red chili and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
powder
1 tablespoon dried cilantro For the second marinating step, combine the remaining ingredients
powder with the reserved ginger-garlic mixture. Add this to the chicken, and
1/2 tablespoon dried turmeric mix well. Let marinate in the refrigerator for an additional 2 hours.
powder
Preheat oven to 350°F.
1 teaspoon dried fenugreek
leaves Place chicken in a single layer in a baking pan lightly coated with
4 tablespoons yogurt vegetable oil. Bake for 20 minutes or until done.
1 tablespoon mustard oil or
vegetable oil Note: To make skewers, cut chicken into smaller chunks. Thread on
Salt, to taste bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water. Roast in the oven
Vegetable oil, for the pan or cook on top of a grill.

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 21


STUFFED PORTOBELLO WITH ASPARAGUS PANEER BHURJEE
(BHARA JUNGLI KHUMB)
(Serves 4)

Preheat oven to 350°F.


4 portobello mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil Clean the mushrooms. Using a spoon, scrape out the gills.
4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped garlic In a medium-sized bowl, make a marinade by stirring together
Salt, to taste olive oil, balsamic vinegar, chopped garlic, salt, and pepper. Rub
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black mushrooms with the mixture; sprinkle with chopped rosemary.
pepper
Place in a single layer on a lightly greased baking sheet; bake for
1 sprig fresh rosemary, needles
15–20 minutes until tender. Remove from oven; set aside and keep
removed and chopped finely
warm.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds While the mushrooms bake, make the stuffing: In a large sauté pan,
1 tablespoon green chili, heat vegetable oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add cumin
finely chopped seeds. They will crackle. Stir, so they do not burn.
1 tablespoon fresh ginger,
finely chopped Add chopped green chili, ginger, and onion. Cook, stirring frequently,
1 red onion, finely chopped until onions are translucent. Add turmeric and cumin powder.
1 teaspoon turmeric powder Next, add asparagus, bell peppers, and grated paneer. Cook until
1 teaspoon cumin powder vegetables are tender. Add lemon juice and salt to taste.
1 pound asparagus, finely
chopped Spoon mixture into the mushroom caps. Serve immediately.
1 green bell pepper, finely
Note: If you can’t find the Indian fresh cheese known as paneer,
chopped
feel free to substitute finely cubed tofu or other diced mushrooms or
1 red bell pepper, finely chopped
vegetables.
1 pound paneer, grated (see
Note)
1/2 teaspoon freshly squeezed
lemon juice

22 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Bix

Finding your way here always feels a little clandestine.


You give a furtive glance over your shoulder, as if you’re on your way to some place that’s
the best kept secret in town, down an alleyway off the Jackson Square Historic District, one of
the city’s oldest commercial hubs, now home to interior design companies, architecture firms,
and art galleries.
The glowing neon sign beckons. Step inside the retro Bix and be prepared to be
transported back in time. Stylish and sophisticated, it has the air of a speakeasy. Squeeze into
a secluded booth in the dramatic two-story dining room with its warm mahogany walls, fluted
columns, and sexy accent lighting from Art Deco sconces that’s guaranteed to make anyone
look more glamorous.
Or take a seat at the massive curved bar where bartenders—never trendy “mixologists”—
know their way with a Negroni, Gimlet, Manhattan, and other classic cocktails like nobody’s
business.
With its 1930s–1940s aura, it’s easy to see why Bix has been a favorite setting for films,
including starring Gene Hackman and Elizabeth Mastrantonio; and with Richard Gere and
Kim Basinger.
As live jazz plays nightly, sit back and dig into steak tartare, marrow bones, a black truffle
cheeseburger, and the perennial favorite of chicken hash, which has been on the menu for
decades.
Proprietor Doug “Bix” Biederbeck, who founded the supper club a quarter century ago,
can often be found making the rounds in the dining room to welcome guests. He also owns
two other establishments in the city: Florio restaurant and MarketBar in the Ferry Building.

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 23


Asian flavors can be seen in this starter of gin-cured trout, which is garnished with Thai
chili and Korean citrus marmalade. The curing technique works equally well on salmon or
arctic char.
Serve with a classic gin martini, and let the good times roll.
56 Gold Street, San Francisco, CA 94133, (415) 433-6300, bixrestaurant.com

GIN-CURED MCFARLAND SPRINGS TROUT WITH POTATO PANCAKES,


SUGAR SNAPS & YUZU MARMALADE
(Serves 6 as a Light Starter to Share)

To cure the trout: In a one-gallon resealable plastic bag, combine


FOR THE TROUT: the trout with all the other ingredients. Seal the bag, taking care to
1 pound trout fillet (or salmon or remove as much air as possible. Gently massage the bag to evenly
arctic char), skin on, bones distribute the cure around the trout fillet. Refrigerate for 48 hours,
removed flipping the bag once after 24 hours to redistribute the cure.
3 tablespoons gin (St. George
Terroir preferred) After 48 hours, remove the fillet from the bag and wipe away as
3 tablespoons granulated sugar much of the cure as possible. Do not rinse with water; it is okay
2 tablespoons kosher salt if some of the cure remains. Pat dry with paper towels and wrap
11/2 teaspoons juniper berries, tightly in plastic wrap. Keep the trout refrigerated until needed.
toasted and ground
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, To make the potato pancakes: In a medium-sized pot, boil the
toasted and ground potatoes in ample water. When they are cooked through, drain
1 tablespoon fresh dill, roughly and peel them. Working quickly while they are still hot, mash the
chopped potatoes with a potato masher or, alternatively, use a ricer.

In a small bowl, lightly beat eggs with extra egg yolk. Add flour and
FOR THE PANCAKES:
crème fraîche. whisking until homogenous. Stir this mixture into the
1/2 pound fingerling or Yukon Gold
potatoes to form a slightly lumpy batter. Adjust seasoning with salt
potatoes
and white pepper.
2 whole eggs
1 egg yolk Preheat oven to 200°F.
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons crème fraîche

24 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


In a nonstick skillet over medium-low heat, melt about 1 tablespoon
Kosher salt of butter. Drop quarter-sized spoonfuls of batter into the skillet to
White pepper create mini pancakes. Cook until golden brown, about 1 minute.
Butter, for the pan Flip pancakes over and continue to cook until done, about 1 minute
longer. Arrange pancakes on a baking pan. Wrap with aluminum foil
FOR THE GARNISH: and place in the oven to keep warm.
1/4 cup crème fraîche
4 tablespoons citron tea jelly To serve: Cut cured trout into thin slices. Top each pancake with a
(aka yuzu marmalade; dollop of crème fraiche, then a slice of the cured trout.
available in Korean markets)
or zest of 1 lemon In a small bowl, mix citron jelly with chili and sugar snap peas.
1 red Thai chili, minced Place a teaspoon of this mixture over the top of the cured fish.
6 sugar snap peas, strings Sprinkle with a grain or two of sea salt and a frond of dill.
removed, sliced thinly on the
bias
Sea salt
3 tablespoons fresh dill fronds

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 25


BIX GIN MARTINI
(Serves 1)

In a mixing glass, combine gin, vermouth, and ice to fill. Cover with
31/2 ounces gin, preferably a stainless steel cocktail shaker. Lift the mixing glass and cocktail
Plymouth shaker above your shoulder and shake gently until frost appears
3/4 ounce dry vermouth, on the exterior of the stainless steel. Do not over-shake or you will
preferably Dolin regrettably dilute your cocktail.
Ice
To serve: Delicately twist the lemon peel to extract its oils. Run
TO SERVE: the peel along the edge of the chilled martini glass, then drop it
1 lemon twist in the bottom of the glass. Strain the contents of the shaker into
1 chilled (5-ounce) martini glass the martini glass. Add a couple olives, if you like. For best results,
Olives, optional repeat process (wink, wink).

26 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


Calafia Cafe &
Market A-Go-Go
He may very well be the man most responsible for elevating corporate cafeteria grub in
Silicon Valley to epic epicurean fare. After all, Charlie Ayers was not only employee #53 at
Google in Mountain View, he was the search engine giant’s very first executive chef.
“I had read in the paper that they were having tryouts,” Ayers said. “It said you’d have
weekends off. Well, every chef wants that.”
So the former Bay Area restaurant chef and private chef to the Grateful Dead applied. But
after the initial meeting, he walked away thinking he’d blown his chance—especially since he
didn’t even realize he was talking to the company founders, Larry Page and Sergey Brin, who
were dressed casually in shorts and T-shirts.
Two weeks later, though, with only two days’ notice, he was invited to return to cook a
meal for them. His shrimp bisque, barley corn salad, five-spice tofu cashew lettuce cups, Sri
Lankan chicken curry with roasted pumpkin, steak-mushroom quesadillas, and flourless
chocolate almond torte won them over. He took the job in 1999, tasked with creating an
array of meals and snacks—all served for free—to fuel employees working crazy hours at this
milestone start-up.
Ayers stayed for nearly six years, watching the company grow from forty employees to
a worldwide behemoth, before deciding it was time to move on to open his own restaurant
in neighboring Palo Alto. He called it Calafia, the old Spanish name for California, which he
learned of—not surprisingly—from a woman at a Grateful Dead concert. Built with reclaimed
and repurposed materials, the sunny cafe was financed by Ayers along with present and
former Google employees who’d long been fans of his food.

GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO 27


The crisp duck dumplings can be found on the Meat Eaters Menu. Make an extra batch to
freeze for later, and you’ll be glad that you did.
Ayers originally created the short ribs to serve at a Google executive conference. Just
think: You don’t even need stock options to enjoy them now.
Town & Country Village, Suite 130, 855 El Camino Real, Palo Alto, CA 94301, (650) 322-9200,
calafiapaloalto.com

28 GREAT FOOD FINDS SAN FRANCISCO


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