Standing waves
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧) Consider another standing wave:
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
𝜙= sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
This is one of the solutions we discarded earlier. The free
surface elevation:
1 𝜕𝜙 𝐻
𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡 = ቤ = − sin 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 2
(linearized DFSBC)
Subtract this from the other solution, we have a new solution:
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Standing waves
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
The surface elevation
1 𝜕𝜙 𝐻 Propagates from left to right
𝜂 𝑥, 𝑡 = ቤ = cos(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
𝑔 𝜕𝑡 𝑧=0 2
This is the superposition of two wave elevations.
Linear problem!
Shallow and deep water
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡 Also
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Here,
Thus, for small kh
Taylor expansion, for small
or
For large kh
Shallow and deep water
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘 ℎ + 𝑧
𝜙= cos 𝑘𝑥 sin 𝜔𝑡 − sin 𝑘𝑥 cos 𝜔𝑡
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
𝐻𝑔 cosh 𝑘(ℎ + 𝑧)
=− sin(𝑘𝑥 − 𝜔𝑡)
2𝜔 cosh 𝑘ℎ
Shallow and deep water
Dispersion relationship for shallow water reduces in
the following manner:
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ = 𝑔𝑘 2ℎ
𝜔2
2 = 𝐶 2 = 𝑔ℎ
𝑘
Relative
𝐶= 𝑔ℎ
The wave speed in shallow water is determined
solely by the water depth.
Shallow and deep water
Dispersion relationship for deep water reduces in the
following manner:
𝜔2 = 𝑔𝑘 tanh 𝑘ℎ ≈ 𝑔𝑘
In general, for the same depth, longer waves have
faster speeds.
Summary of shallow and deep-water waves
Gravity-Capillary waves
Two-dimensional periodic linear water wave problem
Consider surface tension
Governing equation:
𝜕𝜙 𝜎 𝜕 2𝜂
− + 𝑔𝜂 − = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
∇2 𝜙 =0 𝜕𝑡 𝜌 𝜕𝑥 2
Boundary conditions:
𝜕𝜙
− =0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = −ℎ
𝜕𝑧
𝜕𝜙 𝜕𝜂
− = , 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑧 𝜕𝑡
𝜕𝜙
− + 𝑔𝜂 = 0 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0
𝜕𝑡
Gravity-Capillary waves
0.5
Consider surface tension 0.45
0.4
𝜕𝜙 𝜎 𝜕 2𝜂
− + 𝑔𝜂 − = 0, 𝑜𝑛 𝑧 = 0 0.35
𝜕𝑡 𝜌 𝜕𝑥 2
C (m/s)
0.3 f 6 f 104
C 0.274917 C 0.274729
f 40.5
0.25 C 0.274651
0.2
clean water T=0.07N/m
surfactant T=0.03N/m
0.15
0.1
50 100 150 200 250
f (Hz)
Fish line problem (moving pressure)
