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‘A HAPPY HOLIDAY’:
ENGLISH CANADIANS AND TRANSATLANTIC TOURISM,
1870–1930
One of the most revealing things about national character is the way
that citizens react to and report on their travels abroad. Oftentimes a
tourist’s experience with a foreign place says as much about their
country of origin as it does about their destination. ‘A Happy Holiday’
examines the travels of English-speaking Canadian men and women to
Britain and Europe during the late nineteenth and early twentieth cen-
turies. It describes the experiences of tourists, detailing where they
went and their reactions to tourist sites, and draws attention to the cen-
trality of culture and the sensory dimensions of overseas tourism.
Among the specific topics explored are travellers’ class relation-
ships with people in the tourism industry, impressions of historic
landscapes in Britain and Europe, descriptions of imperial spectacles
and cultural sights, the use of public spaces, and encounters with fel-
low tourists and how such encounters either solidified or unsettled
national subjectivities. Cecilia Morgan draws our attention to the
important ambiguities between empire and nation, and how this
relationship was dealt with by tourists in foreign lands. Based on
personal letters, diaries, newspapers, and periodicals from across
Canada, ‘A Happy Holiday’ argues that overseas tourism offered peo-
ple the chance to explore questions of identity during this period, a
time in which issues such as gender, nation, and empire were the sub-
ject of much public debate and discussion.
‘A Happy Holiday’
English Canadians and Transatlantic
Tourism, 1870–1930
U N I V E R S I T Y O F TO R O N TO P R E S S
Toronto Buffalo London
© University of Toronto Press Incorporated 2008
Toronto Buffalo London
www.utppublishing.com
Printed in Canada
This book has been published with the help of a grant from the Canadian
Federation for the Humanities and Social Sciences, through the Aid to
Scholarly Publications Programme, using funds provided by the Social
Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada.
To Paul
This page intentionally left blank
Contents
Acknowledgments ix
Prologue xiii
Epilogue 361
viii Contents
Notes 371
Bibliography 447
Index 455
Acknowledgments
for sharing her knowledge of the family’s history, and for suggesting
that I consult the Fulford Family Papers. My thanks to the following
for permission to reproduce visual material: the Archives of Ontario,
the D. B. Weldon Library at the University of Western Ontario, Library
and Archives Canada, and the McCord Museum, Montreal. I thank
Victoria University Library for granting me permission to quote from
the Kathleen Coburn papers.
My intellectual debts are very large and probably can’t be repaid. A
number of historians of the British Empire introduced me to new bod-
ies of historiography and gave me the benefit of their rich knowledge
of its history. It would be very hard to write imperial, transatlantic,
and transnational histories without such scholarly generosity. Sandra
den Otter read the initial grant proposal and offered very good advice
for its improvement. Stephen Heathorn and Paul Deslandes have not
only been good friends over the years but in 1997 also were kind
enough to invite me to participate in a panel on national identities
at the North American Conference on British Studies (NACBS) at
Asilomar, California. I am extremely grateful to them for introducing
me to NACBS: the Association’s gatherings have been a wonderful
source of intellectual stimulation and that initial meeting introduced
me to Angela Woollacott. Her work on white Australian women trav-
ellers has been a great source of inspiration and her friendship and
support have been equally important. For their interest, enthusiasm,
and very insightful suggestions, I also would like to thank Anne
Clendinning and Matthew Hendley. Closer to ‘home,’ Karen Dubinsky’s
enthusiasm for this project has been truly gratifying. In 1996 she had
the prescience to tell me that this would be my next book: not only
was she right but she also was generous enough to read the first draft
and to give me wonderful advice and suggestions for its improve-
ment. Brian Young, whose work has shown us how to look at the
privileged with critical and perceptive eyes, was a constant source of
enthusiasm and support. I must also thank Elizabeth Kirkland for
so generously sharing her knowledge of Montreal’s Clouston and
Roddick families. My thanks to audiences at the following confer-
ences and seminars: the Canadian Historical Association; NACBS;
Cultural Approaches to the Study of Canadian Nationalism, Nipissing
University; Queen’s University History Department’s Faculty-Graduate
Seminar; and the Victorian Studies Association of Ontario. Special
thanks to Barbara Lorenzkowski and Steve High for inviting me to
participate in the Nipissing Conference, an experience that helped
Acknowledgments xi
‘The noise was fearful, the children screaming and vomiting and my
fellow-sufferers groaning,’ wrote Mary Leslie to her mother at the fam-
ily’s home in Guelph, Ontario. Leslie herself had been delirious and
was unable to retain anything – food, water, or medicine – in her stom-
ach; a visit from a young and, it seems, rather brusque doctor was suc-
cessful only in sedating her. Her letter described not a hospital ward
where all were stricken by some deadly disease but, rather, the cabin of
a transatlantic ship bound for Liverpool, England, overbooked with
passengers in the throes of violent seasickness. From the moment she
set foot on board, the trip did not bode well for Leslie. She had been
‘horrified’ by the sight of her small and overcrowded cabin, with its
cloying smell of new paint and lack of ventilation. The disagreeable
behaviour of one of her cabin mates did not help, for Miss ‘L’ ‘always
dressed first in the morning, took full an hour and had the door shut all
the time nearly suffocating us poor creatures in our beds.’ Leslie’s
plight would have been wretched indeed had it not been for the kind-
ness of her capable stewardess, a fifty-year-old with ‘not a grey hair
and rosy cheeks,’ who had been twenty-two years at sea and had
sailed to almost ‘every port.’ Her diet of beef tea and gruel managed to
stay in Leslie’s stomach, and she was able to receive a visit from one of
the French Roman Catholic priests on board, the only passenger, she
told her mother, who came to see her.1 These men were initially
‘shunned and treated with contempt by all the good Protestant passen-
gers, but before the voyage was out they were very popular.’2
Once the ship reached the Irish coast and calmer waters Mary Leslie
was able to remain on deck for most of the day, enjoying the ‘coast that
appeared to you so desolate and frowning … the dark rocks were
xiv Prologue
clothed in the brightest and softest greenest moss I ever saw in my life.’
She attended a benefit concert for a ‘poor widow’ travelling in steer-
age, who was returning to Cornwall after her husband’s death in a
Quebec mining accident. Various songs were sung, and Shakespeare
was recited ‘very badly,’ but the evening’s efforts raised £7 for the
woman and her three children. Leslie also contributed to other charita-
ble collections for steerage passengers (a sick woman, a elderly man),
explaining to her father that ‘I had suffered so much myself and I had a
great many more comforts than these poor miserable creatures that I
felt it would be a sin not to give something.’ On disembarking in Liver-
pool she gave her stewardess a half sovereign and the steward 5s, as
she felt that she had given them more trouble than anyone else on
board. Her voyage ended on a somewhat sour note with her efforts to
tip the doctor. ‘I am paid by the shipowners,’ he told Leslie but ‘if you
like to give me a fee, I am a poor man and not above being paid like
any other “servant.”’ Forced to ask him the amount, Leslie was visibly
shaken when he quoted her two sovereigns. Seeing her distress, the
doctor relented and took only one. ‘You are not so rich as I supposed,’
he told her, ‘“I know you think two too much for you changed colour,
you value your life at one sovereign – good bye take care of your body
– though women never do that,” and so I took back the sovereign and
we parted.’3
The most gruelling part of her journey to England over, Leslie took
the train to London, where she spent the next four months with her
paternal uncle William and his family in Dulwich. An aspiring writer
who had travelled overseas to find a publisher, Mary Leslie spent her
time sightseeing, visiting relatives and family friends, and observing
the foibles of the English. In October she responded to a Times adver-
tisement for an English governess in a German school in Amsterdam.
In return for two hours of English lessons and drawing instruction, she
was to receive board, lodging, washing, and instruction in German,
French, and music (‘but no salary,’ she emphasized to her parents, the
recipients of a number of requests for money). The reference for the
school was a good one, she reassured them, as it came from the chap-
lain of the British Consul in Amsterdam.4 Once in the Netherlands,
Leslie continued to write home, describing and commenting on Dutch
manners and customs. Her letters to Guelph end 15 March 1868, with a
description of a Dutch wedding and a promise that she would bring
home ‘green cheddar and chocolate’ for her mother’s birthday.5
Prologue xv
and unwarranted respect for the titled. One time she ‘had a good look
at Lady Palmerston driving along in an open carriage looking rather
desolate I thought with her white hair and widow’s cap.’ Another time,
as she and her friend Mrs Williamson were leaving Rotten Row, they
stopped to watch the occupant of a carriage descend from it and enter
his house. A ‘gross gouty over-grown old man, like old Jones in the
face, but coarser and more surly … Mrs Williamson slightly pulled my
sleeve and we stood back till the old fellow got up the steps and into his
own house, with the assistance of a most gentlemanly looking man
(who proved to be the butler) and just as I was honouring her in my
heart for her deference to old age, she whispered deferentially “that was
Lord Lowborough.”’11
London would send many Canadian visitors into paroxysms of
delight. Mary Leslie judged it far more critically and at times quite
harshly. After she took a trip along the Thames to Greenwich on the
smallest steamboat she had ever seen, she reported that the river
‘exceeds my expectations for I had not imagination enough to conceive
anything so filthy and abominable. The stench nearly made me sick,
and entirely spoiled the pleasure of looking at the Traitor’s Gate,
Somerset House, and the London Docks.’ Greenwich itself, though,
was ‘wonderful,’ with its portrait and death mask of Nelson, relics of
the Franklin Expedition, and Van Dyke’s portrait of Prince Rupert’s
‘dark spirited face with a smiling satirical mask that would surely have
said something saucy to me if I had stood there a minute longer.’12 At
the Adelphi Theatre she saw the final performance of Kate Terry, a ‘pet
actress’ who was leaving the stage to marry a rich man, and found it
enjoyable – at least to a degree. Terry, appearing in Much Ado about
Nothing, ‘played with great spirit and had a nice Irish voice.’ The audi-
ence gave her a ‘thundering cheer’ on her first entrance and afterwards
two curtain calls of her own. Leslie was ‘supplied with a pair of opera
goggles and stared through them the whole evening like a black beetle.
The dresses of the performers were very rich, magnificent brocades
and velvets and once they used the magnesium lights to represent
noonday and it was wonderfully natural.’ But the theatre was
‘crowded to excess and the heat insufferable’ and, apart from Terry, the
‘only two good actors were a Mr Henry N (a scion of the aristocracy
who has been cut by his family for becoming an actor) and Mr Clarke
who acted Dogberry.’13
Leslie’s critical evaluation of English society touched on a wide vari-
ety of topics. She told her mother that ‘I have scarcely seen a pair of
Prologue xvii
a dirty back street, a sort of arched back way not far from the Adelphi the-
atre, I daresay you know the place and there was a number of blind men
there standing against the wall with their hats held out before them mis-
erable looking creatures most of them were, but one in particular who
xviii Prologue
was tapping the pavement with his stick and feeling his way slowly along
was the most wretched looking fellow creature I ever beheld. He was evi-
dently sight-less, his face scarred almost out of the form of humanity, he
was thin to emaciation and the rags he had on scarcely covered his naked-
ness. He carried a board on his waist with large printed letters on it
appealing to the charity of his fellow creatures by telling them that he had
lost his sight in a coal mine accident many years before. I was sorry but I
had left my purse at home for fear of thieves and had not even a penny to
give him and I said so. ‘It is very sad my dear,’ said cousin Anne drawing
her skirts up round her plump person and stepping back a little as he
passed us. Mr Green came up just then and he said with a look of repug-
nance to the beggars ‘you chose a very unpleasant way to come Mamma,’
and offered an arm to each of us. He never gave any of those poor old fel-
lows a half-penny and I don’t believe it ever occurred to him that he was
of the same humanity as them, or that there was any connection between
the wife who walked by his side, and the little daughter he had been pet-
ting at dinner-time, and a poor dirty woman and child whom we saw
asleep on a door step. I think if Christ came back to the earth that these
wealthy Britons would be as hard upon him as the rich Jews were of old,
and consider him a ‘pestilent fellow’ for healing and comforting the poor
– indeed I am sure of this point the way I have heard nearly every body
speak of Lord Shaftesbury, Dr Marsh and his daughter who did so much
good among the navvies.17
Charles Dickens is very much liked and everybody speaks well of him
but in a tolerant half-patronizing sort of way. They tolerate him because
he is amusing and gives them hard hits in a pleasant general way and his
lectures are well attended not because they are given for the benefit of the
poor but because the people who go are sure of spending a pleasant
evening and getting their shilling’s worth. Everybody whom I have heard
speak of his lectures has gone from this motive and no other. They praise
him for his genius and wit, and admire him for his wealth, and in consid-
eration of those qualities forgive him for his philanthropy and his ‘infatua-
tion about the poor.’ (I am quoting a tradesman who has heard his lectures
for many a long yr) and look upon him as a wealthy and eccentric old
idiot and feel on the whole rather proud to have him as a countryman.18
Prologue xix
were in the Southern States at the time of the war’ and told her that she
must stock up on clothes before she left London: ‘there is a beautiful
brown satin in a shop in Regent Street only two sovereigns and a half
which is very cheap for a material of a best quality … Neither the
Greens nor Cousin Charlotte have any idea of how we are circum-
stanced in Canada they speak as if we were all well off as they are or
better – they seem to think any body who possessed land must be
rich.’27
‘On the whole,’ she announced to her father, ‘I feel proud of my
country and like it much better than the old, and think it has greater
natural advantages (except the extreme cold and heat) and hope it will
be a finer country than England some day, and I never see a pictur-
esque old church and parsonage without wishing I could transfer it to
Meaford or some other Canadian village where it was needed.’ As she
made clear in describing an English couple who had emigrated to New
Zealand ‘and were the better for it,’ Leslie preferred such colonies and
their residents to an ‘old country’ or its populace.28 Leslie’s intense dis-
like of perceived English condescension towards and ignorance of
Canada was very similar to the feelings aroused in Australian women
who travelled to Britain in the years shortly after Leslie’s trip. In
Leslie’s case, however, given her identification with English literature,
music, and art, her impatience with her relatives came at least partially
from what she saw as their lack of appreciation for their own cultural
‘heritage.’ Being a ‘white colonial,’ as historian Angela Woollacott has
shown, was not an uncomplicated identity.29
But if Leslie’s distancing herself from contemporary English society
was more pronounced than that of later English-speaking Canadian
travellers, she eagerly recorded the social and cultural ‘customs and
traditions’ of the Dutch. In many ways she thought more highly of
Holland than of England, telling her family that ‘Rotterdam is the most
beautiful city I have ever seen … the buildings are fine and picturesque
and the streets are clean to a marvel.’ En route to Amsterdam, Leslie
saw ‘peasant women with snow white caps and wooden shoes, little
carts drawn by dogs,’ as well as ‘fine fat cattle,’ goats, windmills, ‘pic-
turesque houses … and canals canals everywhere.’ Although she did
not much like her Dutch and German male travelling companions’
habit of smoking (‘in my face for twenty four miles’),30 and was discon-
certed by the poor English spoken by her fellow teachers and students,
Leslie found the area of Amsterdam in which she stayed quite charm-
ing and picturesque. Despite the fact that ‘in Holland unmarried ladies
Prologue xxiii
are not allowed to walk alone,’ she went for a stroll every morning after
breakfast, figuring that ‘the privilege is accorded to me as the ignorant
foreigner who knows no better.’31
Although her letters were not as numerous as those from London,
Leslie’s correspondence from Holland was full of descriptions. Dutch
food included lots of vinegar, arrowroot broth, stringy beef (but good
German sausages), boiled chestnuts, hot drinks, and plum pudding.
Regarding table manners, she reported that forks were held in the right
hand. She commented on the Dutch language, which she was learning
quickly: ‘it is a very unmusical tongue, composed of snufflings, sneez-
ings, and strange gurglings in the throat.’32 In her last letter home, she
described attending a Dutch wedding, where, she observed, ‘she was a
novelty,’ although most of the forty-two guests preferred to flirt with
each other than speak to her. The fashions were unremarkable (even
the bride and groom were plainly dressed) except in the case of one
woman.
I know the meaning of Dutch courage now. One old lady had a cap literally
covered with rubies and I don’t know which but either diamonds or paste.
They flashed and sparkled in a wonderful way whenever she moved her
head. She was the wife of a burgermeister (whatever that is) and every one
paid her great respect. I don’t like to say she was treated with great servility
but it was something very like it. She had no teeth and her hair was as
white as snow. She looked a strange figure so gaily caparisoned, the cap
was a national cap without a bit of border and fitted the head like a skull cap
– having long tippets at the ears hanging down straight like rabbits-ears.33
This book began with a diary or, rather, a number of diaries.1 Seques-
tered from the mugginess of the southern Ontario summer of 1995 in
the University of Western Ontario’s Archives, I was working my way
through the papers of Harriett Priddis. As she had been an active
member of the London and Middlesex Historical Society, I hoped that
Priddis’s writings would give me more insight into the writing of his-
tory by English-Canadian middle-class women in late-Victorian and
Edwardian Canada.
In addition to providing information on Priddis’s work as a histo-
rian, her papers held something else: a collection of three typescript
diaries that documented her travels to the Philadelphia Exposition of
1876, to Britain and Europe in 1906, and to Britain in 1911. Although
they had, ostensibly, little or nothing to do with the project that had
taken me to London – the commemoration of Laura Secord – the dia-
ries caught my eye for a number of reasons. For one, they were quite
lengthy. Priddis’s accounts of her overseas trips covered well over
three hundred pages. Moreover, even a cursory flip through them
made it clear that they were more than just lists of places visited and
sights seen, for Priddis was indefatigable when it came to recording
her impressions of her travels. Not only had she left very detailed
descriptions of monuments, castles, and cathedrals, she also recorded
her perceptions of the people she met, whether locals or other tourists,
in the course of her travels. The diaries also let me see how the daily
experiences of transatlantic tourism in this period – the scramble to get
on the right train at the right time, to have the correct papers for
‘foreign’ customs inspectors, to find one’s eyeglasses oneself when
Thomas Cook’s agency proved incompetent – could be both amusing
and provoking, well organized and maddeningly confusing.
4 A Happy Holiday
Diaries entitled ‘My Trip to Britain and Time on the Continent,’ news-
paper columns called ‘Travel, Adventure, and National Customs,’ and
books with titles such as Our Trip to Europe suggest that, for middle-
and upper-middle-class English Canadians, transatlantic tourism was
desirable for its own sake, as well as offering multiple opportunities
for reflection on, and perhaps for testing and questioning, social and
cultural sensibilities. This is not to argue that a trip overseas became de
rigueur for all those who thought of themselves, and were seen by oth-
ers, as middle class (although for some it clearly was). Not all were
able to or even wanted to visit London, Edinburgh, Brussels, Berne, or
Rome – although this book will be about those who could and did.
However, the press and periodical literature, texts that helped consti-
tute the public spheres of the nineteenth-century middle classes, con-
stantly and consistently invited those who might never venture further
than Truro, Hamilton, Selkirk, or Victoria to imagine themselves as
doing so, to acquire and share in the social and cultural tastes, knowl-
edge, and customs of like-minded men and women.
Most of the people in this study went overseas primarily to see
sights and to be informally educated, as well as to be entertained. I
have included a few Canadians who were overseas for other reasons,
such as professional, familial, political, or business, because they also
used those opportunities to travel around Britain and Europe as tour-
ists and left detailed and rich records of their experiences. However,
particularly in the case of those who travelled to Britain and Europe for
professional and artistic training, the range of material and questions
to be asked would be so extensive as to warrant another, separate
study. Nevertheless, culture plays an important role in this book, as I
explore how a range of cultural genres including theatre, art, music,
history, and literature featured in middle-class Canadians’ overseas
6 A Happy Holiday
chapter 4, guides too may have been playing along in this act, creating
and performing in character for reasons both tangible and less obvi-
ous. Yet none of this, I caution, should let us forget the relationships of
class, ethnicity and race, nation and empire, and gender that framed
and encoded transatlantic tourism, relationships that resulted in some
people being able to represent themselves more fully for the benefit of
themselves and (although they might not have intended to do so) for
historians. For various reasons, others have not been able to do so.
and Hawaii.18 George Fulford left his Brockville home in 1902 and set
out on a five-month ‘world tour’ that took him to London and Paris, as
well as Egypt, India, Singapore, and Japan.19 That being said, travel to
Britain – and, to a certain extent, Europe – was understood to be the
apogee of an education, formal and informal, in culture, history, and
progress; many aspects of these overseas trips resembled the early
modern Grand Tour undertaken by young male aristocrats who
wished to further their education in the classics.20 People who under-
took such a trip could reassure themselves that they would be exposed
to ‘the very best’ and that by taking such a trip they could claim mem-
bership in a community of cultured, enlightened, and modern men
and women. Moreover, while travel within Canada was becoming
increasingly popular and accessible during this period, the few indi-
viduals who left documents comparing Canada’s tourist sites with
those in Britain tended to reinforce this belief.21 Natural wonders such
as Niagara Falls or the Canadian Rockies were remarkable and should
be seen; however, it was the Atlantic crossing that would bring those
Canadians face to face with the pinnacle of history and culture.
The writings of the tourists who included Europe in their overseas
trips help us understand the contingent and shifting nature of the lines
of affiliation to empire and their links to the racialized discourses of
civilization in late-Victorian and Edwardian anglophone Canada.22 As
chapters 6 and 8 will show, Europe was an important cultural destina-
tion, desired because of its rich store of art and architecture and scenes
of immense natural beauty, such as the Alps and the Mediterranean
coastline. Europe also was a place where quaint folk customs, particu-
larly interesting types of peasant dress, might be observed and
recorded. Europe also was in many ways the ‘other’ and experiencing
Europe served to strengthen these English-Canadians’ ties to Britain
and their sense that they themselves were members of a civilized, pro-
gressive nation and empire. Europe housed the artefacts that they felt
were part of their cultural heritage. Also in Europe, as it was plain to
see, were societies that were socially backward, societies that, in the
estimation of the Canadian tourists, were missing the most essential
features of progress and British imperial greatness.
Nowhere was this more obvious than the organization of gender rela-
tions in European peasant societies. In the agricultural regions of coun-
tries such as Switzerland and Italy, what they saw of women’s labour
(and, conversely, men’s apparent idleness) spoke to these Canadian
tourists of societies that clung to primitive, not progressive, habits. At
Introduction 11
the very least, such observations suggested that European nations were
not yet fully formed entities, that civilized habits and social structures
had not yet taken full root across all sectors of society. In time, perhaps,
with the good example set by the continent’s improving middle class,
such habits and structures would become widespread. But some Euro-
peans might, though, have more in common with such ‘racially back-
ward’ groups as Native peoples: they were not really members of
nations at all. All of this appeared to some travellers to be very unlike
the Dominion of Canada, where the middle-class, English-speaking,
Protestant population was making a considerable effort to assimilate
both Aboriginal peoples and European immigrants into modern,
English-Canadian ways.23 As a group of Manitoba school teachers, who
toured Britain and Ireland in 1910 themselves put it, their work for the
dominion and empire involved convincing both materialistic Ameri-
cans and a plethora of European ethnicities of the formers’ benefits; by
bringing them into contact with the ‘real thing,’ overseas travel would
strengthen their commitment to national and imperial projects.24 Trans-
atlantic tourism did not abolish the racial and ethnically charged hierar-
chies of power that structured Canadian society; rather, it might at
times have confirmed the view that such hierarchies were necessary
components of ‘civilized’ society, along with ‘appropriate’ gender roles,
certain cultural genres, and particular norms of behaviour.
Such hierarchies of power included their belief that English, not
French, Canada represented the nation, a belief expressed in ways more
implicit than explicit. I chose to confine my focus to English-speaking
and (mostly) Protestant Canadians and to omit French-speaking
(mostly) Catholics – a choice shaped by considerations such as the
sheer volume of sources and the intricacies of questions surrounding
issues of religious, national, and imperial identities. But I should note
that, although French Canada appears conspicuous by its absence
from this study, this absence is not entirely because of my choices as a
historian. The absence of French Canada and French-speaking Canadi-
ans is also a reflection of the very conspicuous absence of French Can-
ada and French Canadians from the individual and, I would argue,
collective consciousness of my research subjects. To be sure, a number
of them used their departing or returning stops in Montreal or Quebec
City as opportunities to tour those cities, and they might have observed
Quebec’s landscape as they sailed the St Lawrence.25 Yet, once they
reached the other side of the Atlantic, Quebec – or the notion that Can-
ada included that province and its inhabitants – vanished from their
12 A Happy Holiday
sensibilities (or at least was eclipsed from the historian’s eye by other
considerations). There is not the slightest indication in these accounts
that travels around France evoked comparisons, for better or worse,
with Quebec’s society and culture; the religiously inspired cultural
tours of Italy’s cathedrals and galleries did not elicit musings about the
church’s cultural influence on or in French-speaking, Catholic Canada.
In reports of their travels in Ireland, where we might have expected to
find various comparisons between Catholic peasantries on both sides
of the ocean, Canadian tourists either were silent on such matters or
considered it was more salient to discuss Ireland’s relationship with
England. Widespread absences and silences like these can be difficult
for the historian, given our discipline’s epistemological and method-
ological preference for that which is tangibly present and visible. Nev-
ertheless, while outside the scope of this work, the general absence of
French Canada from these men’s and women’s consciousness of nation
and empire is a topic that warrants its own historian, for absences and
exclusions do not occur naturally or inevitably: they are as a much a
product of historical processes as are inclusions and presences.
If being a Canadian was predicated on an identification with Britain
that actively excluded (or, at the very least, ignored) French Canada,
these travellers’ sensibilities concerning gender relations were often
acute; moreover, their experiences of transatlantic tourism were
shaped and structured by gender relations in a number of ways. As is
the case with the other types of affiliations discussed in this book, gen-
der roles and constructs were not static. The ways in which they
thought about themselves as men and women were inflected by their
other relationships and ways of imagining themselves: class, for one,
and nation and empire, for another (and vice versa). Travel and tour-
ism were structured by the discourses and practices associated with
normative gender roles, although not always in predictable or straight-
forward ways. It would be claiming too much to argue that late-
Victorian and Edwardian middle-class femininity and masculinity
were fundamentally challenged or reshaped by the experiences of
being abroad, if for no other reason than the sources and methodology
I employ do not permit an extensive exploration of such a claim: my
study ends as the passengers disembarked from the steamers at Hali-
fax or Quebec. Nevertheless, these travellers’ sense of being in differ-
ent situations, as well as the genre of travel writing itself (which is
explored in more depth later in this chapter), prompted them to record
impressions in which their own understandings of gender were never
Introduction 13
was central to transatlantic tourism did not preclude them from dwell-
ing on spiritual matters and their religious heritage. Rather, it perhaps
encouraged and fostered private reflections and public acts of venera-
tion that helped buttress the hegemonic influence of religion that,
Marguerite Van Die has argued, became a central dimension of public
life within nineteenth-century Canada.33
Hovering over all of this is the question of modernity, one that has
been addressed only sparingly in Canadian historiography. While
modernity often has been relegated to the twentieth century or
explored as ‘modernization’ (as in, for example, transitions from agri-
cultural to commercial economies or secularization), I argue that by
examining transatlantic tourism for this period we can see the multi-
faceted ways and means in which modernity shaped the lives and
identities of the subjects of this study. In many respects this aspect of
late-Victorian and Edwardian tourism seems so obvious as not to war-
rant any special discussion. Various scholars have pointed out that
nineteenth-century tourism was intricately and intimately tied to
modernity. Technological and cultural forms of modernity took tour-
ists to the steamship dock in the first place. Modernity brought them
into contact with ‘Others.’ Shaped by technologies (the railroad, the
steamship, the telegram) modernity encouraged ever-faster movement
across geographical regions and time zones, and thus collapsed time
and space, perhaps encouraging a sense of fragmented identity and
uncertainty, and modernity was deeply implicated in commercial and
industrial capitalism.38 In his study of Toronto’s Industrial Exhibition,
historian Keith Walden has pointed to the many lessons in modernity
that attending that event entailed – ‘learning how to control fleeting
moments and impressions, how to interpret delicate, shifting grada-
tions of taste, how to interact with strangers in chance encounters, how
to cope with ambiguity, how to sustain coherence and self-possession
18 A Happy Holiday
Two factors led me to choose the decades between 1870 and 1930. Many
fine works of cultural history have selected a small slice of time (and,
on occasion, a small cast of characters) to investigate large questions
and themes at a microscopic level.45 For this study, I made a conscious
and deliberate choice to widen my chronological canvas in order to
determine both commonalities and differences of various kinds. Cana-
dian historians have seen this period as having a particular kind of
unity that makes the category of ‘nation’ – at least in English-speaking
Canada – most relevant and important, reaching beyond the obvious
political structures and processes such as increased industrialization,
20 A Happy Holiday
detailed accounts of the places that had been visited and their histories
and offered suggestions for further reading, in the form of either travel
guides or histories. Many publications provided copious illustrations of
both the people and places that should be seen; this book features a
number of such photographs and sketches in an attempt to suggest
how middle-class anglophone Canadians’ visual sense might have
been aroused by the prospect of transatlantic travel. The Canadian
press played a significant role in shaping and promoting the desire to
travel overseas and the national and imperial memberships that such
travel facilitated.52 Although it existed primarily for the benefit of Brit-
ons who might be interested in investing in or emigrating to Canada,
the periodical Canada: An Illustrated Journal, founded by its editor Hugh
Allan in 1906, regularly published the names of Canadians about to
depart for overseas and from time to time ran articles about Britain, as
well as advertisements for London hotels and services.
It could not be said that spontaneity was actively discouraged (and,
as we shall see, the unexpected did occur). Nevertheless, this literature
insisted that tourists should be well prepared in order to appreciate
fully the landscape, monuments, architecture, and people they would
see. Possibly because the time spent overseas by many middle-class
English-Canadians was quite short the desire was so intense to arrive
there with clear agendas and a clear understanding of what to expect.53
Their desire to arrive well prepared also might be linked to middle-
class eagerness for efficiency, made more urgent by a sense of the
quickening pace of modernity, a sense exacerbated by technologies
such as steamships and rail travel. Travellers without dependants or
the demands of regular daily employment, such as young, single middle-
class women or wealthy middle-class men, sometimes were away for
as long as a year, but most middle-class tourists went for two or three
months. A minority spent only a few weeks overseas.
Whatever the length of time spent, though, most travel writers
would have been pleased by the Canadian Magazine’s tale of the four
young women whose plans to make ‘the grand tour’ for the summer of
1904 had gone awry and had to be postponed. Instead of despairing,
the young women decided that they would ‘visit’ London (a trip that
included Stratford-on-Avon, Oxford, and Warwick), France, Germany,
and Italy with the help of their friends’ ‘guide-books, collections of for-
eign photographs, and museum and art gallery catalogues.’54 They
also wrote to ‘a well-known man of learning for a list of the best books
to read in order to become thoroughly “acquainted” with the places
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
(2) The Comitia
The civil courts of appeal existing under the Principate are partly
due to a survival of the Republican principle of appellatio to a
magistrate with the right of veto, partly to the principle (new for
Rome, though not for the provinces) of delegated jurisdiction, and
partly to a wholly novel principle of an appeal which can completely
reverse the decisions of a lower court, which has its origin mainly in
an attempt at centralising the higher provincial jurisdiction in Rome.
From the decision of a judex in the judicia ordinaria there is now, as
formerly, no appeal to any authority, although, as we shall see, the
sentences of judices might, under certain conditions, be reversed by
the authority either of the praetor or the Princeps. From the decision
of the praetor in jure an appeal lies as before to an equal or higher
authority,[1823] and the veto in virtue of the major potestas or majus
imperium is naturally possessed by the Princeps. When we find
Tiberius present in the praetor’s court, he may be there for the
purpose of over-ruling that magistrate’s decisions.[1824] His presence
seems to show that the limitations of the old auxilium—which must
be offered in person[1825]—were preserved. Whether the veto was
pronounced in virtue of the imperium or in virtue of the tribunicia
potestas is a matter of indifference; how the veto operated is the
really important point. On the analogy of the Republican intercession
its effects should have been purely cassatory, and perhaps in the
early Principate this principle was observed. But it must be
remembered that the Princeps is in a very different position to the
vetoing consul or tribune of the Republic, or even to the Republican
praetor who presides over a department other than that which he
controls by his veto. These magistrates can negative a decision of a
lower court, but they cannot replace this negatived decision by a
positive judgment of their own. The Princeps, on the other hand, has
a theoretically unlimited power of civil jurisdiction.[1826] He can,
therefore, supplement his negative by a positive judgment, and this
unique combination of the power of vetoing and the power of
judging is almost unquestionably the basis of that appeal to Caesar
which leads to the reformation of a sentence. It is not improbable
that the appeal came to operate in this way even against the
praetor, although, even if it did not, the effect of Caesar’s veto would
really be reformatory. Even the tribunes of the Republic could put
pressure on a praetor to induce him to alter his formula,[1827] and
we can hardly imagine the praetor withstanding the suggestion
accompanying a veto pronounced by the holder of the tribunicia
potestas. The jurisdiction of the municipal towns of Italy was, so far
as it was “ordinary” jurisdiction, still under the control of consuls,
praetors, and tribunes, at least as late as the reign of Nero.[1828]
These municipal courts were technically those of the praetor
urbanus, and the Princeps probably interfered (if at all) with their
jurisdiction only through his control of the rulings of the praetor in
Rome. We shall trace elsewhere the mode in which the extraordinary
jurisdiction of one of Caesar’s delegates, the praefect of the city,
came to encroach on the ordinary jurisdiction of the Roman courts.
Another method of appeal springs from the principle of delegated
jurisdiction. Caesar, when he cares to exercise civil jurisdiction, can
perform it either personally or through mandataries, and there is
necessarily an appeal from the mandatary to the higher authority,
unless this authority distinctly asserts that no appeal will lie.[1829]
The appeal in such a case, if it is upheld, issues not merely in the
veto but in the reform of the sentence of the mandatary. Caesar
may, of course, employ such delegates as he pleases. Augustus used
the praetor urbanus and consulares for home and foreign
appellationes,[1830] a word which in this context probably means
simply “requests for cognisance” made to the Princeps. The imperial
jurisdiction in matters of trust (fidei commissa) was delegated to
consuls or to praetors.[1831] But, apart from this regular delegation,
the Emperor might instruct any one to be his judex extra ordinem,
when he did not care to take the case himself.
The appeal from provincial governors was, so far as the public or
senatorial provinces were concerned, the result of a conscious
striving after unity of administration, although it was not wholly
unconnected with Republican precedents; with respect to Caesar’s
provinces, it was a direct consequence of the fact that the governors
of these provinces were merely his legates, although the frequency
with which the appeal was allowed shows the same striving for a
centralised jurisdiction. The principle which in the early Principate
regulated appeals from the public provinces was that these should
come invariably to the Senate, and this principle of the dyarchy,
which tended to be disregarded, was emphatically restated by Nero
at the commencement of his reign.[1832] It was probably a
development of a Republican custom in accordance with which
certain important cases had been summoned from the provinces to
Rome by the consuls and Senate (Romam revocatio);[1833] but this
principle seems to have been now extended to include true cases of
appeal as well as cases of denial of jurisdiction. When such appeals
in civil matters came to Rome, it is probable that the Senate
delegated the hearing of them to the consuls.
The fact that this principle of the appellate jurisdiction of the
Senate required restatement in 54 a.d. prepares us for the ultimate
neglect into which it fell. It is certain that by the close of the second
and beginning of the third century, Caesar, or his great delegate the
praefect of the praetorian guard, is the universal court of appeal for
the whole provincial world. This result cannot be attached to any
power possessed by the Princeps over the proconsuls of the public
provinces; for the statement that he possessed maius imperium over
such governors[1834] can only mean that in any collision of authority
the Princeps is not inferior to the proconsul. The world-wide
appellate jurisdiction of the Princeps was a thing of very gradual
growth, and it originated, not from any idea of his prerogative, but
from the irresistible tendency of provincial governors, senatorial as
well as imperial, to refer their difficulties to the highest interpreting
authority in the Roman world, the Princeps and his consilium of
judicial advisers. It is no wonder that the man who became the
central source of law should also become the universal authority for
its interpretation in detail.
When we turn to criminal jurisdiction, we find that here too there
are three sources of jus. The Republic is represented by the
quaestiones perpetuae with their praetors and equestrian judices,
and also by the new criminal jurisdiction which has been attached to
the consuls and the Senate; the Principate is represented by the
jurisdiction of the Princeps and his delegates. The jurisdiction of the
quaestiones, so long as it continued,[1835] proceeded on the old
lines. They judged except where the case, through a request of the
parties accepted by a higher court, was exempted from their
jurisdiction. The higher courts, which might stop their jurisdiction by
accepting a case, were those of the Senate and the Princeps. Both of
these were high courts of voluntary jurisdiction, and no appeal was
permitted from one to the other.[1836] Voluntary jurisdiction is by its
nature difficult to define; but custom tended to limit the Senate’s
cognisance to certain classes of cases. These classes were
determined either by the position of the accused or the nature of the
offence. The Senate tried ordinary crimes, such as murder, adultery,
incest, when they were committed by the members of the upper
classes in society,[1837] and there was a growing feeling, which
subsequently obtained something like legal recognition, that a
senator should be tried by his peers.[1838] But the character of the
offence was the chief determinant of the Senate’s jurisdiction. Any
offence of a directly political character, even in the early Principate a
breach of a treaty by a foreign prince,[1839] tended to come before
it. It was the usual court for extortion or other misuse of powers by
provincial governors;[1840] it judged offences against the majesty of
the state;[1841] and when the majesty of the Princeps had become
identified with that of the state, it might be employed as a
convenient engine of judicial tyranny.[1842] Its utility was assisted by
the unlimited and arbitrary character of its jurisdiction. It interpreted
while it judged; it might extend the incidence of a law and frame
new penalties; it might even punish in cases where no penalty was
fixed by law;[1843] and the principle, forbidden in the quaestiones, of
uniting several crimes in the same charge, was here admitted.[1844]
This jurisdiction was technically, perhaps, a cognitio of the consuls.
[1845] But the Senate was their constant advising body, and the
sentence took the form of a senatus consultum. We shall soon see
how the Emperor’s presence at the board enabled him to influence a
jurisdiction which was technically independent of his control.
The voluntary jurisdiction of the Princeps in criminal matters was
theoretically unlimited, and could be exercised at any time or in any
place. It rested with him whether he would undertake the
cognisance (cognitionem suscipere) at the request of one of the
parties,[1846] or refer the case to the ordinary courts that is, to the
quaestio competent to try it. The relations of the two high courts of
voluntary jurisdiction to the ordinary court of necessary jurisdiction,
are admirably exemplified by the procedure adopted in the trial of
Piso for the murder of Germanicus (a.d. 19-20). It is at the outset
assumed that the case, which is one of poisoning, will come before
the special commission established by the lex Cornelia de veneficis.
But the Emperor’s cognisance is sought by the prosecutor, and
Tiberius and his consilium actually listen to the preliminaries of the
trial. But the Emperor soon sees how invidious it will be to
pronounce judgment in a case in which the murder of his own
nephew and adopted son is the subject of investigation, and he,
therefore, sends the matter unprejudiced to the Senate with a
request that they should exercise their voluntary jurisdiction—a
request which, coming from the Princeps, it was practically, although
not legally, impossible for the Senate to decline.[1847]
But, although any request for cognisance might be listened to, the
Princeps usually confined his personal jurisdiction to certain spheres.
These included serious crimes committed by members of the upper
ranks in society, but especially offences committed by imperial
servants or by the officers of the army.[1848] The Emperor might, of
course, delegate this jurisdiction, although the delegation of special
cases seems to have been unusual.[1849] On the other hand, the
regular delegation of certain kinds of offences is frequent enough,
and is the basis of the criminal jurisdiction of the Emperor’s servants,
the various praefects who presided over the city, the praetorian
guard, the corn-supply, and the watch.[1850]
A peculiar right of the Princeps to try cases from the provinces in
which the lives of Roman citizens were involved may, perhaps, have
grown up during the Principate. It certainly does not exist during the
early portion of this period. Instances of the maintenance of the
Republican principle, that capital charges against Roman citizens
should be sent to Rome, are indeed furnished by such cases as
those of the Bithynian Christians in the reign of Trajan,[1851] and
perhaps of St. Paul’s appeal in the reign of Nero;[1852] and perhaps
such a demand for a trial at Rome was accompanied by a request,
usually accepted, to be tried before the Princeps; but there are as
many instances which prove the unlimited jurisdiction of the
provincial governor, at least when dealing with ordinary crimes. Thus
Marius Priscus scourged and strangled a Roman knight in the
province of Africa, and Galba, when governor of Tarraconensis,
crucified a guardian, who was a Roman citizen, for poisoning his
ward.[1853] There are, however, signs that the right to kill (jus
gladii), if this expression refers to ordinary as well as to military
jurisdiction, was specially given by the Emperor at least to the
administrators of his own provinces,[1854] which shows that the
frequent requests of one who stood “before Caesar’s judgment seat”
to be tried by Caesar had issued in some standing rule. At a later
time, when the universal criminal appeal to Caesar had grown up,
certain persons—senators, officers, and decurions—are exempted
from capital or severe penalties pronounced by provincial governors,
[1855] and this jurisdiction, reserved for the Princeps, was exercised
by the praefectus praetorio without appeal.
The Princeps was (especially in the early Principate) by no means
a universal court of criminal appeal for the whole Roman world.
There was no appeal to him from the quaestiones perpetuae,
although he may have had some right of rescinding the inequitable
judgments of such courts (in integrum restitutio); nor is there
theoretically any appeal from the Senate, although the Princeps
possesses, through the tribunicia potestas, a practical power of
rescinding the judgments of that body.[1856] In the matter of
jurisdiction delegated to his praefects, the appeal lies unless he wills
it away, as he does in favour of the praefectus praetorio. With
respect to the provinces, the principle of the dual control, which we
have illustrated with reference to civil jurisdiction,[1857] must have
originally been supposed to hold good with reference to criminal
jurisdiction as well; but the dyarchy was, in this particular, ultimately
dissolved. By the end of the second century Caesar, represented in
most cases by his inappellable praetorian praefect, was the highest
court of criminal appeal for the whole Roman world.
Besides the right of appeal, there is in most political societies a
power residing somewhere which is, or approximates to be, a power
of pardon. It is sometimes regarded as a signal attribute of
sovereignty, but somewhat improperly, since the power of rescinding
sentences or of ordering a new trial may reside in a mere executive
authority, such as a court of cassation, which possesses none of the
other attributes which we usually associate with a sovereign. In the
constitution of the Principate it is certainly not regarded as a
sovereign right, for the power is limited and, like most of the
manifestations of public life, is theoretically divided between the
organs of the Republic and the Princeps.
The Senate possessed no general power of pardon beyond the
right, inherited from the Republic, of annulling charges and thus
releasing people, who are on their trial, on certain public and festal
occasions.[1858] This right of declaring abolitiones publicae was one
expression of its right of amnesty.[1859] But the Senate had besides,
as a high court, the right of rescinding its own former sentences (in
integrum restitutio).[1860] It might also be occasionally consulted by
the Princeps on the advisability of his rescinding the sentences of
the imperial courts—those, as a rule, which had been pronounced by
former Emperors.[1861] But such consultation was not a right of the
Senate, but merely a concession of the Emperor.
The Emperor, in his relation to the courts of Rome, possessed the
full power of restitutio only over his own sentences and those of his
predecessors in office.[1862] He had no right of interference in the
way of restitutio with the judgments of the Senate, for the power
which he possessed, of preventing the reception of the charge[1863]
or the execution of the judgment, was merely a practical and
accidental consequence of the application of the tribunician power to
a decree of the Senate.[1864] Nor is there any distinct evidence of his
possessing the power of rescinding the sentences of the quaestiones
perpetuae, although interference with these on equitable grounds is
not improbable, and seems, where permitted, to have taken the
form of consent to a new trial (retratactio).[1865] With respect to the
ordinary civil courts, the praetor possessed the power of equitable
restitution,[1866] but there is evidence that the Princeps, also as a
court of equity, might rescind inequitable sentences both of ordinary
judices and of centumviri.[1867]
The Princeps also possessed a power of quashing indictments
(abolitio), which does not seem to have been confined to his own
jurisdiction, but to have been extended to other criminal courts as
well.[1868] Its origin may be explained on two grounds. The first
depends on the fact that it was possible to have any case brought to
the Emperor’s court, on the request either of the prosecutor or of
the accused. The Emperor might, after listening to the preliminaries,
refuse to hear such a case without “remitting” it to another court,
[1869] and it is very improbable that any other authority would listen
for a moment to a prosecution to which the Emperor had declined to
attend. The dismissal of the case by the Princeps was practically a
power of abolition; but the right might have been exercised even
more directly. Republican history furnishes an instance of a tribune
prohibiting the president of a quaestio from receiving a charge,[1870]
and it is obvious that the tribunicia potestas of the Princeps might
have been exercised in the same way to impede the first step in the
jurisdiction of every criminal court.
With respect to the provinces, just as the criminal appeal finally
passes to the Emperor,[1871] so the revision of the sentences of the
local courts, where revision is suggested by the judge,[1872] as well
as the infliction of punishments denied to the judge—such as the
capital penalty on decurions or deportation on any one[1873]—centre
finally in the hands of the Princeps. All right of revision and
restitution is not, indeed, denied to the provincial governor,[1874] but
while this was finally restricted by certain well-defined rules, the
Emperor’s power of restitution appears ultimately to have been
unlimited. “This power might be so employed by the Emperor as to
take the form of a free pardon,[1875] but theoretically it was merely
an equitable assistance. As a legally unlimited power of rescinding
sentences, it approaches very nearly to a power of pardon; but it is
an executive duty rather than a sovereign right, and we search in
vain in the Principate for a power of pardon regarded as an admitted
constitutional right of a sovereign.”[1876]
(iii.) Administration.—The principle of a dual control is as manifest
in administrative matters as in any other. The spheres of
administration are Rome, Italy, and the Provinces. With respect to
the first two it is clear that one of the few justifications for the
maintenance of Republican government was that, by leaving the
ordinary administrative duties connected with Rome and Italy to the
Senate and ordinary magistrates, it enabled the Princeps to
concentrate his attention on his proper sphere, the foreign and
provincial world. But even the provinces did not deserve the
undivided attention of the Princeps. Those whose administration
presented no special difficulties, and which required no military
force, might still be left to the care of the Roman people. This
division of responsibility might have continued a reality had the
Principate continued to be what it was in origin—a provisional
government by an individual who had little personal assistance at his
command. But as this rule gradually assumed the form of a huge
government department, overshadowing all others, with an
organised civil service which replaced the assistance furnished by
freedmen and slaves, it not unnaturally tended to encroach on the
Republican spheres of administration. The motive for the tendency
was chiefly the fact that the Princeps was, in the eyes of all men, not
the head of a department but of the state, and a responsibility,
which he would gladly have disclaimed, for the acts of all officials,
even those of Republican departments, was thus thrust upon him.
[1877] There is no particular ground for believing that the Princeps
managed departments such as Rome or Italy better than the
Republican officials. The important fact was that public opinion
forced him to manage them, whether for good or ill.
(iv.) Finance.—Finance at Rome was always so intimately bound
up with provincial control, that the division of the provinces into
public and imperial implied of itself the existence of two separate
financial departments. The Senate still asserts control over the
aerarium, and gives instructions to the guardians of the chest. The
qualification of these guardians varied from time to time. The
dictator Caesar had in 45 b.c. given the charge to two aediles, but
quaestors seem again to have been the presidents of the
treasury[1878] until Augustus in 28 b.c. instituted two praefecti aerarii
Saturni, chosen yearly from the ex-praetors by the Senate.[1879]
Even this change was short-lived, and the praefects were soon
replaced by two of the praetors of the year who received their
provincia by lot.[1880] Claudius in 44 a.d. restored the Republican
method of administration through quaestors; but these were no
longer to be annual officials designated by lot, but to be chosen by
the Emperor for a period of three years.[1881] Finally under Nero (56
a.d.) the elements of the Augustan and the Claudian arrangements