TEXTILES

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NAME: RASHIDA DHINOJWALA
CLASS: 12 SEC: H
YEAR: 2024-25
SUBJECT: HOME SCIENCE
TOPIC: TEXTILES

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to convey my heartfelt gratitude to our principal mam

Mrs.J.G Surana, our loving sister, Sr.Vanisha and our home science
teacher, Mrs S.B Mazumdar for supporting and guiding me to complete
my home science project. This was an enriching experience and I
thoroughly enjoyed while going (banking,meal planning,food labels)
through the journey of the report writing for the traditional weaves,
prints and costumes of three states in India. I’m grateful to all those who
have supported me in completing my project. I am thankful to god for his
blessings to guide me to the right direction.

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 INTRODUCTION
India has been well known for textile since very ancient times. The origin of Indian
textiles can be traced to the Indus valley civilization as early as 5th millennium BC. The
people of that civilization used homespun cotton for weaving their garments and used
indigo to color their fabric. Textile has always played an important in trade and
business here in India. Rome, China and Egypt everywhere traces have been found of
Indian textiles. Still we can say India is textile hub and it has thousands of clusters
which beautifully weave and give is the most beautiful fabrics which mesmerize our
eyes. Listed here few of the fabrics/prints/embroidery of India.

KHADI
India Khadi is a handspun, hand-woven natural
fiber cloth. Also known as khaddar during
british era, depict purely India or one say it’s a
swadeshi fabric. Fibers are spun into yarn on a
spinning wheel called a charkha. It is a versatile
fabric, cool in summer and warm in winter. This
doesn’t require more introduction.

KALAMKARI — Andhra Pradesh

Kalamkari is a type of hand-painted or block-printed cotton textile. There are two
distinctive styles of kalamkari art in India — the Srikalahasti style and the Machilipatnam
style. The Srikalahasti style of kalamkari is done using a pen for freehand drawing of
pattern and filling in the colors, is entirely hand worked. Machilipatnam style of Kalamkari
work involves vegetable Dyed block-painting of a fabric.

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 BANARASI SILK — Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh
Banarsi silk known for gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery.
The saari is decorated with intricate design inspired by Mughal, floral and foliate motifs,
mango leaves motifs and minakari work.

CHIKANKARI EMBOIDERY — Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh

Chikankari is an art, which results in the transformation of the plainest cotton and
organdie into flowing yards of magic. The word ‘Chikan’ steps from a Persian word
derived from ‘Chic’, which referred to the ‘Jali’ work done on marble or wood.
Chikankari is a long running or darning stitch worked with six strands on the right side
of the fabric taken over four threads and picking up one. Other styles of embroidery
are backstitch, chainstitch, bakhiya, jail work, etc.

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 EVOLUTION OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The origins of textiles can be traced to man's great transition from a nomadic, food-
seeking hunting culture to a communal food-storing surplus civilisation. Using culture,
this evolution was confined around the four great river cradles of civilization- The Nile
Valley, The Tigris-Euphrates Plain, The Yangtze Valley and The Indus Valley of North-
Western India where it began in around 2500 BC. Primitive clothing styles were
determined by the climate and nature of raw materials which naturally differed from
region to region.

THE INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry of India, which is more than 5000 years old, has undergone significant
developments starting from its modest beginnings as handlooms in villages to large-scale
modern-day textile mills. From the era of ‘Cholas’, ‘Seljuks’, and ‘Safavids’ till now, Indian
Textile Industry has come a long way. The story of textiles in India is one of the oldest in the
world. The earliest surviving Indian cotton threads date to around 4000 BC and dyed fabrics
from the region are documented as far back as 2500 BC. India’s textiles were so central to
its identity abroad that in ancient Greece and Babylon the very name ‘India’ was shorthand
for ‘cotton’.

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 The Textile industry of India was well-known to the world much before the colonial
period. Silk from China and Cotton from India were important import goods in the
western countries. The access to markets was greatly amplified by the discovery of a sea
route via the Cape of Good Hope in the 15th Century by the great traveller Vasco De
Gama. With the entry of the East India Company, the production and trade of Indian
textiles and fabrics in the medieval period were further intensified. Artisans developed
their own styles of treating and decorating the textiles with locally available raw materials
in each area. For instance, Tavernier wrote that Barouch (Bharuch), with large meadows
full of lemon trees, was particularly known for the bleaching of textiles that required lime
juice.
During the Colonial Period, a large variety of Indian Calico and other types of cotton
production made inroads into the British Empire and the sheer variety of production
styles and the skills of the Indian artisans accumulated through generations made the
products manufactured in India far superior in quality and range than the textiles
produced in Europe.
However, the situation began to change after the colonial period. As more affordable
clothes made of machine-spun yarn flooded not only European but also Indian markets,
the traditional hand-spun yarn and textiles faced stiff competition, which became even
more pronounced with the use of chemical dyes in the West. After the Industrial
Revolution began in England, it removed all import duties on British goods in the Indian
market, while the English East India Company imposed heavy import duties on Indian
clothes in the British markets. The Indian textile mills were not able to withstand the
competition from machine-made goods produced in Britain, and gradually this led to the
decline of the Indian textile industry during the colonial period.
With the singular agenda of maximizing profits, the textile industry in India like all other
industries under the colonial regime suffered major losses. It is therefore very pertinent to
analyse the situation with the independence movement of India and the boycott of British
mill-made clothes and the promotion of khadi became the identity of Swaraj or the self-
rule movement under the father of the nation Mahatma Gandhi.

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 Growth of the Indian Textile Industry post-Independence
The British Rule in India saw the imposition of various levies and taxes with import and
export barriers to the already fledgling textile industry in India. Britain had already started
exporting mill-made fabrics and yarns to India in the 1780s. The flooding of low-cost
fabrics and textiles in India from Britain severely hampered and damaged the
development of the indigenous textile industry. This situation created the cloth crisis in
India during British rule.
Post Independence Industrialised Era – Source:
On August 15, 1947, India attained freedom from British rule. Freedom also brought in a
lot of challenges of industrialisation and modernisation. Alongside a drive to increase
factory production to clothe India’s vast population, the government set up the All-India
Handloom Board in 1952 to nurture hand-weaving and other textile crafts. In 1961, the
National Institute of Design was established, and designers began to play a key role in the
modernising process.
The Government of India rapidly took charge of the situation and implemented a slew of
measures and initiatives to revive the textile industry. The Indian textiles industry is now a
well-established one with significant attributes and a lustrous future. The country is the
second biggest textiles manufacturer worldwide, right after China. The Indian textile
industry is an integral part of the overall manufacturing sector of the country and is a
major contributor to the country’s economy. India’s textile industry is also the largest in
the country in terms of employment generation. It not only generates jobs in its own
industry but also opens up scope for other ancillary sectors.

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 3 STATES OF INDIA
RAJASTHAN
HISTORY OF RAJASTHAN

The history of human settlement in the western Indian state of Rajasthan dates back to
about 100,000 years ago. Around 5000 to 2000 BCE many regions of Rajasthan
belonged as the site of the Indus Valley Civilization. Kalibangan is the main Indus site of
Rajasthan, here fire altars have been discovered, similar to those found at Lothal.[1]

Around 2000 BCE, Sarasvati Riverflowed through the Aravalli mountain range in the
state. During the Vedic Period present Rajasthan region known as Brahmavarta (The
land created by the gods and lying between the divine rivers Saraswati and
Drishadwati). Matsya kingdom (c. 1500–350 BCE) was the one of the most important
Vedic kingdom. The main ruler of kingdom was king Virata, who participated in
Kurukshetra War by the side of Pandavas. After Vedic Period, Rajasthan was ruled by
many Mahajanapadas includes- Matsya, Surasena, Kuru, Arjunayanas, Sivis and others.
The early medieval period saw the rise of many Rajput kingdoms such as the Chauhans
of Ajmer, Sisodias of Mewar, Gurjara-Pratihara and the Rathores of Marwar, as well as
several Rajput clans such as the Gohil and the Shekhawats of Shekhawati.[2] The
Gurjara-Pratihara Empireacted as a barrier for Arab invaders from the 8th to the 11th
century, it was the power of the Pratihara army that effectively barred the progress of
the Arabs beyond the confines of Sindh, their only conquest for nearly 300 years.
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 The British made several treaties with rulers of Rajasthan and also made allies out of
local rulers, who were allowed to rule their princely states. This period was marked by
famines and economic exploitation. The Rajputana Agency was a political office of the
British Indian Empire dealing with a collection of native states in Rajputana (present,
Rajasthan).[9]
After Indian Independence in 1947, the various princely states of Rajputana were
integrated in seven stages to formed present day state of Rajasthan on 1 November
1956.

GEOGRAPHIC CONDITIONS OF RAJASTHAN

Rajasthan is a state in India situated in the country’s northwest. The name Rajasthan
means “Land of Kings.” Rajasthan is home to the largest desert in Asia, called the Thar
Desert. The desert is made up of silt and clay unsuitable for agriculture due to insufficient
rain or water. Other major cities in Rajasthan include Jaipur and Jodhpur. The dry region
of Rajasthan is called the Thar Desert. It was formed over 10 million years ago after the ice
age of the last glacial period and currently covers about 12,000 square km (4,700 sq mi).

Rajasthan borders Gujarat to the west, Haryana and Punjab to the north and Uttar
Pradesh to the east.
The average annual rainfall in northern Rajasthan is 610 mm, while in southern states of
India, it is 750 mm. The average annual maximum temperature is 29°C, and the
minimum temperature is 12°C. The state experiences hot summers and cold winters.
The average annual rainfall in Rajasthan is 610 mm, while in the south Indian states, it
ranges from 750 mm to 780 mm. To make it clear, the state of Rajasthan lies in the rain
shadow areas of the region.

The desert has a hot climate with extreme temperatures during summer and winter times.
The average temperature in summer is 32 °C, and in winter, the temperature usually goes
down by 4 °C. The extreme heat of the desert is caused due to lack of vegetation and very
low rainfall

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 Weaves
Batik
Batik is a medium that lies somewhere
between art and craft, and is believed to be at
least 2000 years old. The Batik technique is a
development of resist printing. The fabric is
painted with molten wax and then dyed in cold
dyes after which the cloth is washed in hot
water.

Bandhani
Jaipur and Sikar are the notable centers. Sikar
produces one of the finest Bandhanis. Another
form of tie and dye in Rajasthan is the Lehriya
and Mothra. Here the opposite ends of the
length of the cloth are pulled and rolled
together. They are then tied and dyed in
different colors producing multicolored lines.

Sanganeri Prints
Sanganer is the most famous center for block
printing and screen printing the cotton cloth.
Colourful cloth with various folk patterns is
available here for bed- covers,table covers etc.
The distinctive feature of sanganeri print is that
its background is always white. Black color is
used for outlines whereas red color is used to
fill in the figures and floral motifs.
Barmeri Prints
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 TEXTILES OF RAJASTHAN

The textiles of Rajasthan represent an amalgamation of generations of experimentation

with fabric, handicraft skills, and a sharp eye for detail. These textiles, woven with
incredible precision, are the result of an oral tradition that has passed down generations
and been honed with finesse and purpose.

Rajasthan’s textiles and handlooms are vibrant;

they encompass sustainable techniques to
produce wholesome results. The state is home
to an umpteen number of handicrafts and these
endpieces champion the local artisan that
enlivens them. Almost all native garments are
bright-coloured. In the olden days, it was
believed that wearing dark-coloured clothes
would help to locate those lost in the barren
landscapes.

TIE & DYE

Textiles of Rajasthan – Bandhini or Bandhej
Tiny, incredibly precise designs are achieved in cloth by
plucking and tying a thread to reveal artwork in bright
shades of like vermillion, saffron, emerald, sapphire, and
yellow yields. Along with style, there is also symbolism
here – red can represent a Hindu bride, and yellow
signifies maternity. Bandhini use is common on turbans,
dupattas, and sarees, in accompaniment with
embroidery, mirror-work, and appliqué.

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A Famous style of patterning the fabric with a tie-and-dye technique, the practice
is 5000 years old. Bandhani means bandhna or to tie. Traditionally, it involved
placing methi or fenugreek seeds on the cloth and tying them with string in
places to leave a colour-block impression post dyeing. These days artisans make
minuscule knots by pinching and twisting. Bandhani is best recognised by the
natural wrinkles left on the fabric after it is complete.

LEHRIYA
Lehariya means a wave, it is a symbol of Rajasthan’s shifting dunes by the desert winds;
as a counter to the paradox represented by the arid land, lehariyas are dyed in bright
colours. They are made with the resist-dyeing technique, where certain parts of the
fabric maintain their original form while the others arrest the hues applied. Donning
rainbow hues, this ancestral style of tie-and-dye has mostly adorned grooms’ safas and
turbans of tradesmen. Women in Rajasthan wear chiffon sarees of this particular
technique in the summers.

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 Sanganeri Block Printing
Rajasthan’s most popular hub of block and screen printing is Sanganer, famed for its
sheer variety of folk patterns on white cotton. It is great for home linens and furnishing,
including bed covers, table cloths etc. These motifs are made with thin black outlines and
the use of red dye to colour figures and flowers.

This style of block printing is done with carved teak blocks on Sanganeri cotton material.
Handblock printing is an organic art, it is time-consuming, unlike machine prints that lack
character. Due to their wearability in India and abroad, these prints are high in demand
for three-fourths of the year. Block prints are affordable and ecologically safe; fighting
fast fashion’s aesthetics to ape this handicraft’s charm.

Many of us refer to this style as ‘Jaipuri print’ due to the mammoth market for prints in
the capital city of Rajasthan. But it is Sanganer, south of Jaipur, that remains an
evergreen hub for manufacturing this block-printed cotton. Sanganeri prints are
distinguished by the clean slate of cloth used as a base and the sheer dominance of rich
floral patterns on them. Fabrics are mostly cotton and cotton-linen, sometimes Silk
Tussar and Kota are used too. Different materials pave the way for intriguing effects
when dyed blocks are applied to them.

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 The traditional attire of men finds its root in the kind of life that
men in Rajasthan had during the ancient royal era. Whether it is the
majestic turban or the traditional angrakha and dhoti, each piece of
Rajasthan clothing is extremely special for the people.

Angrakha is the epitome of the traditional

dress of Rajput-Rajasthani men. It is the
luxury version of a simple cotton kurta
that is worn by common men. The name
of the attire literally translates to
protecting the body. This upper-body
garment is traditionally made from
cotton fabric.
There are two kinds of angrakha that men
in Rajasthan wear. One is mid-thigh
length with a frock-like design. The other
is straight and knee-length ones, also
known as kurtas. These attires are
customised to make them breathable
and comfy against the hot weather.

Dhoti is not just traditional but also

the most ancient dress in Rajasthan.
The fabric of a dhoti is pure cotton
and it is white in colour most of the
time. It is a single piece of long cloth
that is tied around the waist and
wrapped all the way from the hip to
the ankle and then passed between
the legs and tugged on the waistband
a little above the tailbone. The length
varies from knee to ankle according to
their preferences.

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 The traditional attire for women Ghagras are the
signature dress of Rajasthani women. These are the most
iconic attire that is appreciated and popular across the
country. The attire consists of two parts.
The bottom part is a long flaunting skirt decorated with
different geometric patterned fabric works, mirror work
or embroidery or enhanced with broad gota patti borders.
The fabric of the skirt varies from georgette, crepe, chiffon
and cotton to silk. Not just the fabric but also the colours
of the skirt are diverse. Predominating fabric prints like
Laharia, Tie-and-Dye, Mothra, Bandhej, and Chunari are
popular and commonly worn across the state.
The other part of the ghagra is the blouse. Also known as
kanchli, choli or kurti, it is an upper-body wear that can be
custom-made as per body measurements or comes in
different sizes. The blouse is also enhanced by different
fabric prints, colours, clothing materials and various
intricate designs and embroidery work.
The ethnic originality of the Ghagras has influenced the
current fashion trend and dominates the bridal attire that
is famously known as lehengas.

Odhani or Chunari
This piece of cloth is similar to that of a veil and completes the attire of
Rajasthani women. It is a long piece of cloth about 3 metres long and around 2
metres wide. The fabric of Chunari or Odhini is very lightweight. These pieces of
cloth are ornate with coral shells, beadwork, sequin or mirror work with
beautiful embroidery features. It comes in different colours and is worn across
the chest all the way from one side of the shoulder to the other side of the
waist. Odhani or Chunari are must-wear for Rajasthani women. It acts as a veil
and becomes a token of respect shown to the elders.

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GUJARAT

The State took it’s name from the Gujjars, who ruled the area during the 700’s
and 800’s. Stone Age settlements around Sabarmati and Mahi rivers indicate the
same time as that of the Indus Valley Civilization while Harappan centres are also
found at Lothal, Rampur, Amri and other places.
Rock Inscriptions in the Girnar Hills show that the Maurya Emperor Ashoka,
extended his domain into Gujarat in about 250 BC. With it’s fall, the control of the
region came under the Sakas or Scythians. During the 900’s the Solanki Dynasty
came to power and Gujarat reached it’s greatest extent. Then followed a long
period of Muslim rule. Ahmed I, the first independent Muslim ruler of Gujarat,
found Ahmedabad in 1411. The Mughal Emperor Akbar conquered Malwa and
Gujarat in 1570s. The British East India Company set its first footsteps in Surat in
1818 and the State came in control of their rule. Gujarat was divided into princely
states. After the Indian Independence in 1947, all of Gujarat except Saurashtra
and Kutchh became part of Bombay State until May 1, 1960, when the
Government split Bombay state into the States of Maharashtra and Gujarat.
Ahmedabad became the chief city of the new State and housed the State
Government Offices. They remained there until they were transferred to
Gandhinagar in 1970.

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GEOGRAPHICAL CONDITIONS OF GUJARAT

Gujarat is a statealong the western coast of India. Its coastline of about 1,600 km
(990 mi) is the longest in the country, most of which lies on the
Kathiawarpeninsula. Gujarat is the fifth-largest Indian state by area, covering
some 196,024 km2(75,685 sq mi); and the ninth-most populous state, with a
population of 60.4 million in 2011. It is bordered by Rajasthan to the northeast,
Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu to the south, Maharashtra to the
southeast, Madhya Pradesh to the east, and the Arabian Sea and the Pakistani
province of Sindh to the west. Gujarat's capital city is Gandhinagar, while its
largest city is Ahmedabad.[13] The Gujaratis are indigenous to the state and their
language, Gujarati, is the state's official language.

The state encompasses 23 sites of the

ancient Indus Valley civilisation (more
than any other state). The most
important sites are Lothal (the world's
first dry dock), Dholavira (the fifth
largest site), and Gola Dhoro (where 5
uncommon seals were found). Lothal is
believed to have been one of the world's
first seaports.[14] Gujarat's coastal cities,
chiefly Bharuch and Khambhat,[15]
served as ports and trading centres in
the Maurya and Gupta empires and
during the succession of royal Saka
dynasties in the Western Satraps era.
[16][17] Along with Bihar, Mizoram and
Nagaland, Gujarat is one of four Indian
states to prohibit the sale of alcohol.[18]
The Gir Forest National Parkin Gujarat is
home to the only wild population of the
Asiatic lion in the world.

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 WEAVES OF GUJARAT

Bandhni

The craft of Tie & Dye, typically known as Bandhni or Bandhej in Gujarat is practiced in several
areas of the state. The term Bandhni is derived from the Hindi word Bandhan, this means
tying. Bandhni from Jamnagar, Anjar and Bhuj are particularly renowned. The Bandhnis from
these areas differ from those of other regions in terms of designs and craftsmanship. In
Jamnagar, Bandhni work is done on a special type of silky material. Initially, Bandhni work was
done only on sarees. Later on, Bandhni salwar kameezes began to be produced. Nowadays,
there are many items available in Bandhni, ranging from blouses and scarves to bedsheets and
ties. Usually, Bandhni is done in bright colors such as red, green and black. Handmade colors
were used earlier; but the scenario has changed now. The traditional patterns used in
Bandhnis are dots, squares, waves and stripes. Bandhni is generally done on cotton, silk or
satin material. The communities of Muslim Khatris in Kutchh have been doing Bandhni work
since generations.

Gujarati sarees

There are different types of sarees that Gujarat is famous for. One of them is the Gharchola,
which is woven with silk and zari threads. Bandhni work is then done on them or they are
block-printed. Gharcholas are traditionally used as wedding sarees. The saree is divided into
squares by white bandhni dots or stripes of zari. The number of squares are usually in
multiples of 9, 12 or 52. Motifs like elephants, parrots, flowers and dancing girls are generally
found in each compartment.

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 The Patola saree produced in Patan, North Gujarat, is another type of saree that is
well known. These sarees are handwoven and involve traditional patterns such as
leaves, flowers, parrots and dancing girls. Patolas are generally produced in the red
color with white, dark green and yellow patterns. Patola sarees are also considered to
be wedding sarees. Simple traditional looms are used for weaving and natural dyes
made from vegetable extracts and other natural colors are made use of. These colors
are fast and do not fade easily. In fact, there is a Gujarati saying The Patola will tear,
but the color will not fade.
Yet another type of saree from Gujarat that is famous is the Tanchoi saree. The fabric
of this saree is woven in Surat in Gujarat. In these sarees, traditional motifs such as
peacocks and other birds, flowers and hunting scenes are generally observed.

The Gujarati brocade saree is also one of the famous sarees from Gujarat. In this
saree, designs are woven in colored silk on a golden background. Motifs such as
leaves, flowers, fruits, birds, figures of dancing women and women waving fans are
woven in such sarees. These sarees are highly expensive as they are exquisitely woven.
However, such sarees are gradually becoming extinct. These sarees are usually
produced in Mehsana, Jamnagar and Dolka

Zari
Surat in Gujarat is one of the oldest and the
largest producers of zari. It is one of the major
centres for the production of both gold and
silver zari. This zari is utilized in making
decorative borders, shoes, evening bags and
many other items.

Crotchet
Jamnagar in the state of Gujarat is one of the
oldest centres for crotchet lace work, which is
done by the women of the Vohra community.
These women make several crotchet items for
household use. These items are usually made
in black, brown and white colors.

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 Mashru
Gujarat is also famous for its Mashru fabric, which is a blend of silk and cotton.
It is weaved in such a way that the cotton comes in contact with the skin while
the silk remains on the surface. This fabric was initially used by Muslims, who
were not allowed to wear pure silk. Mashru is produced in many places in India,
but Mashru from Gujarat has bold patterns and colors which lend it a certain
uniqueness. In todays times, however, this fabric has been replaced by cheap
quality products that look similar.

Prints of Gujarat
Certain printing techniques of Gujarat are very famous. One of them is the
Ajrakh technique, which is undertaken by the Khatri community of Gujarat.
Other well-known printing techniques of Gujarat are the Sodagiri prints of
Paithapur and the Mata Ni Pachedi prints produced by the Vaghri community
priests as a mark of reverence to their goddess. Rogan is a technique of printing
undertaken in some villages of Kutchh. In this technique, printing is done by
using thick, bright-colored pastes and spreading them on fabric by using the
fingers. Fabric printed using Rogan technique is generally used for making
tablecloths, curtains and borders for skirts. However, this art is on the verge of
becoming extinct.

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 Embroidery styles of Gujarat
There are several embroidery techniques of Gujarat that are very famous.
Different communities in Gujarat have their own distinct style of embroidery. The
Mochi community in Gujarat specializes in chain-stitch embroidery on leather and
they make attractive embroidered leather shoes. These shoes are very much in
demand in the modern fashion world. Animals as well as Persian and Mughal
motifs feature prominently in their embroidery. The Ahir and Rabari communities
specialize in embroidery using vibrantly colored threads and mirrors on black
fabric and other dark-colored surfaces.

The Kathi community of Saurashtra specializes in a

form of embroidery which is popularly known as
Kathi embroidery. Another form of embroidery
commonly done by the Mochi community is bead
work. The Jats of Kutchh use beads, mirrors and
colorful threads to create beautiful designs on
fabric. This type of embroidery is popularly known
as Heer Bharat. The women of the Lohana
community in Banni have their own unique style of
embroidery. The Mutwa community living in Banni
has perfected almost all the styles of embroidery.
These forms of embroidery have been passed on
from generation to generation. The girls in these
communities are taught embroidery at a very early
age by their mothers and usually, they embroider
their own wedding dresses. Several villages of
Gujarat excel in producing beautiful, embroidered
shawls.
Applique or patchwork
Women from the Darji (tailor) community in
Saurashtra specialize in the art of appliqu, which is
commonly known as patch work. Colored and
patterned fabric is cut into different shapes and
sewn on to a background fabric. Sarees, salwar
kameezes, curtains, bed spreads and wall hangings
can be made using this technique.
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 Gujarat is the state where every aspect represents the rich traditions and
incredible heritage which dates back to ages and centuries back. From being
the kingdom of Lord Krishna to being home to the salt desert of the Great
Rann of Kutch it is a place where the authenticity of Gujarati culture is kept
alive. Just like its food, architecture, and way of life the dressing sense of the
people of Gujarat are very distinctive from the rest of India. It represents the
age-old culture and the modern changes coexisting in unison with each other.

Traditional Clothing for Men

Chorn: When in Gujarat you will definitely witness the local men wearing a
sort of a pair of cotton pants that has a very close resemblance to a well-
stitched dhoti. Bring situated in very warm and hot climatic conditions this
piece of clothing is very loose and comfortable making moving around very
cool and easy. Men use a piece of string or elastic to fix it to the waist. This
clothing wear is referred to as a Chorn that can also be found easily anywhere
in one of the many market places here.
Kediyu: Chorno, mentioned above, is paired up with a garment which works as
a top for wearing above in the form of a top. It resembles a frock like clothing
and is probably one of the most popular male costumes of Gujarat. Adorned
with colorful patterns and various frills Kediyu is also referred to as an
Angrakhu. It is available widely in various patterns, designs and Colours which
looks extremely beautiful and is worn during various different local events and
festivals.

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 Dhoti: This long, simple, white / Coloured piece of garment is a very popular
clothing item not only in Gujarat but also among the people of India. It is worn by
wrapping this piece of clothing around the waist and through the legs and finally
tucking it in. this can be worn not only during some occasion or festival but it is
also used in normal day to day life and as a form of casual wear especially in the
village regions.

Phento: While going through the pictures of the local Gujarati men you will find a
stunning resemblance with the local men of Rajasthan which is due to the
adorning of a traditional colorful hat. This is a common piece of accessory that
holds the whole look of the attire in one place. One can easily find these
interesting headgear which is created by layering pieces of cloth and wrapping it
around the head.

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 Ghagra/Chaniya Choli: It goes without saying that this particular piece of
traditional Gujarati clothing is probably one of the most popular ethnic wear.
Women dawn this traditional attire which is made out of colorful patterns, mirror
work, and interesting ethnic designs, during some festival or a traditional
occasion. People from all over the world admire Ghagra for its lively and charming
outlook which can also be worn with an Odhni which is a Dupatta or a Chunri.
Chaniyo: One may easily confuse a Chaniyo with a Lehenga since they both look
almost similar to each other. Available in a range of different shades of colors this
is a petticoat like clothing wear which also sort of looks like a traditional skirt. The
Chaniyo is filled with various unique thread works and even mirror works which
makes it all the more pretty to wear and look at. A Chaniyo can be paired up with
a beautiful top or a tunic which goes well with the bottom wear.
.

Chunni: Traditional and ethnic Chunnis of Gujarat is famous all over the world for
their interesting colors, patterns, and charming designs. As we all know this pretty
looking piece of clothing which can also be worn with Lehengas, skirts, and
Kurtas. The local women use a Chunri to wear it diagonally or to cover their heads
as seen among the local village residents in and around the region of Gujarat. This
can also be seen all over India and not only the region of Gujarat

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WEST BENGAL

The history of West Bengal basically refers to the history of the western part of
Bengal, located in the eastern part of the Indian subcontinent. Evidence of human
settlement has been found in West Bengal about 42,000 years ago. The presence
of human settlement of that period has been found in the Ayodhya Hills of West
Bengal.[1][2][3] By 2,000 BCE, settled life had increasingly spread of human
civilization in the Damodar-Ajay River Valley, which was contemporary with the
Harappa-Mahenjodaro civilization.[4][5] The southern part of West Bengal
witnessed the presence of the Vanga kingdombetween 1100 BCE and 350 BCE,
which was contemporary with the Vedic civilization of northern India.[5]

The Medieval Period in the History of West Bengal

Islamic Rule and the Bengal Sultanate
The 13th century saw the advent of Islamic rule in Bengal with the establishment of
the Bengal Sultanate. The sultans of Bengal were known for their patronage of arts
and architecture. The period saw the blending of Islamic and Bengali cultures,
resulting in unique architectural styles exemplified by structures like the Adina
Mosque in Pandua.

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 Mughal Era
In the 16th century, Bengal became part of the expansive Mughal Empire. The
Mughal period was marked by economic prosperity and the flourishing of trade and
commerce. The region became a significant hub for the production of fine textiles,
particularly muslin. The Mughals also contributed to the cultural and architectural
landscape, as seen in the construction of notable edifices like the Qadam Rasul
Mosque in Gaur.

Economy of West Bengal

Colonial Period in the History of West Bengal
British East India Company
The 18th century marked the beginning of British colonial rule in Bengal. The
Battle of Plassey in 1757, where British forces led by Robert Clive defeated Nawab
Siraj-ud-Daulah, established the British East India Company’s dominance in
Bengal. Kolkata (then Calcutta) became the capital of British India and an
important administrative and commercial center.
Socio-Cultural Renaissance
The 19th century witnessed a socio-cultural renaissance in Bengal, known as the
Bengal Renaissance. Pioneers like Raja Ram Mohan Roy, Ishwar Chandra
Vidyasagar, and Swami Vivekananda spearheaded social reforms, advocating for
women’s education, the abolition of sati, and the promotion of scientific thinking.
This period also saw a resurgence in Bengali literature, art, and theatre, with
luminaries like Rabindranath Tagore making significant contributions.
Struggle for Independence in the History of West Bengal
Partition of Bengal (1905)
The early 20th century saw rising nationalist sentiments in Bengal. The partition
of Bengal in 1905 by the British, ostensibly for administrative reasons, was met
with vehement opposition. The anti-partition movement saw widespread
protests, boycotts of British goods, and the rise of revolutionary activities. The
partition was eventually annulled in 1911, but it left a lasting impact on Bengal’s
political landscape.

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 Role in the Freedom Movement
Bengal played a crucial role in India’s struggle for independence. The region was a
hotbed of revolutionary activities, with figures like Subhas Chandra Bose
emerging as prominent leaders. The Indian National Congress and other
nationalist organizations had a strong presence in Bengal, leading numerous
protests and movements against British rule.
Post-Independence Era in the History of West Bengal
Partition of India (1947)
The partition of India in 1947 led to the creation of the state of West Bengal as
part of the newly formed Republic of India, while East Bengal became East
Pakistan (later Bangladesh). The partition caused massive population
displacement and communal violence, significantly affecting the region’s social
fabric.

GEOGRAPHICAL CONDITIONS
West Bengal is on the eastern neck of India, stretching from the Himalayas in the
north to the Bay of Bengal in the south. It lies between 85 degree 50 minutes and
89 degree 50 minutes east longitude, and 21 degrees 25 minutes and 27 degrees
13 minutes north latitude.[1] The state has a total area of 88,752 square
kilometres (34,267 sq mi).[2] With Bangladesh on its eastern border, the state
forms the ethno-linguistic region of Bengal. To its northeast lie the states of
Assamand Sikkim and the country of Bhutan. To its southwest is the state of
Odisha. To the west, it borders the states of Jharkhand and Bihar, and to the
northwest, Nepal. The capital of the state is Kolkata, the third-largest urban
agglomeration and the seventh-largest city in India.

Rivers Flowing Through West Bengal and Water Resources

Rivers Flowing Through West Bengal play a critical role in shaping the state’s
landscape and supporting its economy. The Geography of West Bengal is marked
by many considerable rivers that provide essential water resources for
agriculture, industry, and daily life.

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 1. The Ganges
The Ganges River flows through the state, dividing into several distributaries,
including the Hooghly. The river supports agriculture and is an essential source of
water for millions of people.
2. The Teesta
Originating from the Himalayas, the Teesta River flows through the northern part
of West Bengal, providing irrigation and supporting agriculture in the region.
3. The Damodar
The river infamous for causing floods, the Damodar River is now regulated by a
series of dams and barrages, providing water for irrigation and hydroelectric
power generation.

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WEAVES

Colonial wars have been waged over silks and chintz in addition to spices and
gems from India, and undivided Bengal was known particularly for its textiles.
Records prove that the fine muslin and silks of the region were so famed that
these were big items of trade among foreign merchants. From William
Dalrymple’s latest book ‘The Anarchy’, we learn that “with its myriad weavers –
25, 000 in Dhaka alone – and unrivalled luxury textile production of silks and
woven muslins of fabulous delicacy, it was by the end of the seventeenth century
Europe’s single most important supplier of goods in Asia and much the wealthiest
region of the Mughal Empire.”
Bengal was particularly known for its muslin, which was said to be so fine that it
could pass through a ring! And the jamdani work – Persian in origin – on muslin
was much sought after. Even today super fine handloom saris or Taant, in
addition to Dhakai jamdani saris, with its geometric patterns, is what the state is
known for, even if the name Dhakai is today a bit of a misnomer.

Kantha embroidery on sari;

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 Cotton is the most preferred fabric for hand-woven saris because of the state’s
sultry weather. Then there are the Baluchari and the Swarnachuri silk saris. Silks
are reserved for special occasions such as weddings and festivities and the
fleeting winters. However, in keeping with modern tastes and requirements,
Bengal saris today have gone through various blends of threads, design
innovations, colour combinations and are embellished with block prints, batik,
zari work, hand-painted (Madhubani motifs), and even embroidery, the most
famed being the Kantha. This fusion is so popular that we now have combinations
of Taant Benarasi or matka muslin or silk saris with jute which is further combined
with cotton or silks threads.

Jamdani work
The finely woven lightweight muslin, mostly cotton, however, is what legends
were made of, its reputation travelling beyond the shores of the country.
The muslin has received a revival of sorts in West Bengal. Daccai muslin jamdani
which are products of Bangladesh have been re-invented in this state as saris,
which combine three features: a blend of muslin and sometimes matka threads,
and hand-woven or hand-embroidered jamdani motifs. These have resulted in
some ethereal looking saris in soft pastel shades. Depending on the amount of
work and time taken, a sari is priced. However, it must be mentioned here that
well-known designers of the country have their own set of dedicated weavers
who are adept at jamdani weaving anywhere in the country, to produce specially
designed high-end saris or other items of fashion accessories like scarves and
stoles.

Taant or cotton tangail sari

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The state of West Bengal is synonymous with a rich cultural heritage that reflects
in its literature, cuisine, music, painting and much more. Bengal's sartorial legacy
derives from the royal patronage and the nobility that valued the richness of
traditional techniques of weaving, embroidery and stitching. This legacy is the
common heritage of both present-day West Bengal and Bangladesh where these
traditional methods of curating beautiful weaves exist in curious harmony with
the modern-day synonymity of the 'fashionable' with the western-wear.
Presenting below are some of the traditional dresses of West Bengal that would
top the list of every collector and fashion enthusiasts:
1. Saree
No image of Bengali women is complete without the six-yards of elegance that
defines Bengali saree. A host of traditional techniques practised on pure cotton
and silk, authentic motifs and drapes of the Bengali saris spell unique charm,
sensuousness and allure at the same time. Below are some of the choicest types
of Bengali sarees that one just cannot give a miss:

Dhakai Jamdani
Believed to have originated from Dhaka, the
uniqueness of Jamdani sarees lie in their "Panna
hazar" (thousand emeralds) patterns of delicate
flowers weaved through gold and silver threads.
Spelling class and timelessness, Jamdani technique
is laborious and time-consuming and worth every
penny!
Source
Korial and Garad
Garad, meaning white, is the traditional Bengali
saree with a bright red border and stripes in the
pallu offset against the un-dyed white silk. Imbued
with religious significance, garad sarees (and their
cousin- Korial with intricate buti or flower patterns
in the body) are hugely popular during the Durga
puja, weddings and other religious ceremonies.
Paired with the typically Bengali ivory/conch shell
and red lacquer bangles, garad sarees are an
epitome of grace and authentic Bengali beauty.

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 Muslin Cotton
Known for their sheer simplicity, the
highlight of these sarees is the fine
quality of muslin that is super-soft to
touch. Usually made in soft paste colour,
they are adorned with delicate patterns,
and if properly starched, they look
incredibly classy and elegant. They come
in both affordable and expensive range,
the latter being quite luxurious
depending upon the quality of the
muslin used.

Kantha Silks and Cottons

Kantha is a type of embroidery that is
popular in the Shantiniketan region of
Bengal. Characterized by 'running stitch'
in bright hues, Kantha embroidery is
used for making a range of linen items
such as bedcovers, cushions and quilts.
Woven thoroughly by hand, Kantha
sarees can be light or heavy and carry
both delicate and elaborate designs on
cotton and silk. Kantha Silk sarees are
popular Bengali Dresses.

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 Panjabi and Dhoti
The traditional attire for men in
Bengal is a 'Panjabi', which is the
equivalent of north-Indian kurta,
paired with a dhoti- a plain loincloth
in cotton or silk. Panjabis can be
either short or long ending up to
knees. What distinguishes Panjabis
from the usual kurta is the
authentic Bengali fabric that can
range from tussar silk, cotton-silk or
muga-silk embroidered with kantha
around neckline or buttonholes.
Garad silk kurtas in the shades of
beige, cream and honey are the
traditional wedding attire for
Bengali men. These days, Panjabi is
also paired with jeans or trousers in
a unique fusion to blend traditional
with the comfortable modern.

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CONCLUSION
The textile project has offered an invaluable opportunity to explore the intricacies
of textile production, design, and sustainable fashion. Throughout the project, we
examined the lifecycle of textiles, from raw material selection to final product
creation, considering both the environmental and social impacts of each phase.
We also engaged with various fabric types, dyeing techniques, and clothing
construction methods to gain a holistic understanding of the textile industry.

Key findings from this project highlight the importance of sustainable practices,
including the use of eco-friendly materials, waste reduction, and ethical labor
standards. By adopting these approaches, the fashion and textile industry can
minimize its ecological footprint and support a more responsible, circular
economy.

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