Fabrics Calculation and Others
Fabrics Calculation and Others
ABRIC CONSUMPTION
WARPING
S
IZING
COUNT CONVERSION
Unit Conversion
1. 1cm=2.54’’
WARPING
The parallel winding of a set of warp yarns many yarn packages on a bobbin at uniform
spacing, tension & length is called warping.
We have,
Warp wt in kg =TE X Beam length(m)÷Count X 1.6933 X 1000
Beam length(m) =Warp wt in kg X Count X 1.6933 X 1000÷TE
=3950X30X1.6933X1000÷8800
=22801.82m
Warp Calculation
Red =30
White =50
Yellow =25
Total =105
Wp wt. = {(TE X B/L/ (Ne X 1.6933X1000)} +3%
={(6380X4400)/(45X1.6933X1000)}+3%
=379KG
Red = Total weft yarn kg X Required yarn ends/ repeat ends
=379X30/105
=108
White =379X50/105
=180
Yellow =379X25/105
=91
Total =108+180+91
=379Kg
Weft Calculation
SIZING
Sizing is the process of giving a protective coating on the warp to minimize yarn breakage during weaving. Sizing raw material is
starch or gum.
Starch or gum is three types--
Sizing program
Construction =32X32/144X72
TE =7968
Water =400L
JS—99 =52.KG
Size add on =13.70%
A.RF =11%
Moisture =3%
,, setting =7.5%
Final volume
Tension
1. 1st zone (Creel) =450 KN
2. 2nd zone (size boxes) =00KN
3. 3rd zone (Cylinder) =00KN
4. 4th zone (Leasing) =1600KN
5. 5th zone (Take up) =2000KN
Squeezing Tension
1. 0 =2KN
2. 40 =5KN
3. 80 =8KN
Temp zone
Speed : 40m/min
Load % =TE/(28X√count)
=7968/ (28 X √32)
=
Reqt of total chemical =Initial chemical X Reqt of final volume/ Final volume
=70X1129/530
=135.90
=149.11
=150Kg
Sizing costing
Construction: 40+40x20/120x50
TE=7000
Sized length=13700m
Yarn wt =1415.84kg
Volume consumed=2300-350=1950 ltr
2.PVA consumed=4.69kgs
Price=200tk
Cost=938tk
Total cost=27792+939 tk
=Tk 28731
Weaving TAP:
Eff =85%
Count =20X20/60X60
RPM =650
Grey qty =125000mtre
PPI =57
Running m/c =5
Require time for total grey qty = Grey qty ÷ (Daily Production—30) / no. running m/c
=125000÷(354 -30)/5
=(125000÷324)/5
TAP =90 days
Crimp % =L1-L2/L2X100%
Where, L1=Size length, L2= Woven length
GSM:
Gram per Square meter.
=(EPI÷Wp Count+ PPI÷Wt Count)X24.75
=(130÷30+70÷30)X24.75
=(4.34+2.34)X24.75
=6.68X24.75
=165.33 g/sq.m
(Note: Twill=24.75,Plain=24.41)
Weft insertion:
Its mention the inserting speed of weft yarn.
Weft insertion rate
= Useable weave width (m) x rpm; Where, width =195cm =1.95m & rpm =800
= 1.95 m x800 m/min
= 1560m/min
Prepared by Md. Mustafizur Rahman
Sr. Executive QAD (Central) ATML
Mobile: 01913717771
Warp stop/400 ends/1000 mtr of
Super high speed warping m/c (Direct)
=Total stop ÷ TE ÷ Warp length (m) x400x1000
=91 ÷5860 ÷11900 x400x1000
=0.52 (Avg);{Good=0.2Average=0.5Poor=0.7}
Warp stop/400 ends/1000 mtr of
Super high speed warping m/c (Sectional)
=Total stop ÷ TE ÷ Warp length (m) x400x1000
=30÷6900÷2600x400x1000
=0.66 (Avg) {Good=0.4 Average=0.8, Poor =1.0}
Winding speed random
For up to 40 s is 1400 to 1500 m/min and finer than 40+ for 1000 to 1400 m/min
Weaving unit
1. RH = 68-72%
2. Temp =25-26 degree Celsius
3. Steam of sizing = 1.5 kg / kg yarn
4. Wet pick up% = Thermal, 100kg/150 kg.
5. Knot tail for winding = 5-6 mm
6. Drawing capability = 5500 ends / pair person /8 hrs.
7. For Automatic (m/c) = 65000 ends /every day (m/c) that means 21666 ends / 8 hrs.
8. Knotting, 13000 ends/operative
We have,
GSM = [{(EPI X 39.37)/ (Count X 1.6933)}+{(PPI X 39.37)/(Count X 1.6933)}]
=72.06+60.45
=132.52
And
GLM = GSM X Fabric width (m)
=132.52X1.47
=194.79
So,
Fabric Length (m) = {Fabric weight (kg) X1000}/GLM
=195.50X1000/194
=1003.65m
Prove,
Weight of fabric (kg) = [{(Total ends X Fabric length (m))}/ (CountX1693.3)}]+[{Finished fabric length(m) X Finished fabric (inch)
X PPI}/ (CountX1693.3)}]
=106.69+89.38
=196kg
If,
Construction = 40x40/120x80
Finished width =58”
Total ends =6900
Requirement of finished fabric’s =1000m,
Than grey fabric’s quantity =1000+12%=1120m
Warp length =1120+10%=1232m
R&D
Working flow-chart.
Swatch, fabrics, CAD, (hard copy, soft copy, TPX-Textile Color for paper and Leather,
TCX-Textile Color for Cotton by mail) get from marketing dept.
Analysis: EPI, PPI, weave, count, construction, check solid/ yarn dyed, twist and color
selection, finish (regular finish, soft, brush peach & resin).
Price negotiation
Normal wash
Submit to marketing.
Derivatives of plain:
Construction base
1. Oxford : 40+40x30/2/100x50
2. Ottoman : 20x40+40/100x50
3. Panama/Matt/Boxy : 40+40x40+40/100x50
4. Canvas : 20x20/60x60
5. Poplin : 40x40/133x72
6. Voile : 50x50/130x90, 60x60/160x90
Color base
2. Chambray : Warp 01 color + weft 01 color
3. Fill–a-fill : warp 2 color (1/1) + weft 01 color
4. End on end : warp 01 color + weft 02 color
5. Hams tooth : pair ends same color + pair ends same color
Derivatives of twill:
Normal twill
1. 3/1 twill
2. 2/1 twill
3. 2/2 twill
4. 3/2 twill
5. 3/3 twill
6. 4/1 twill
7. 4/2 twill
8. 4/3 twill
9. 4/4 twill
Zigzag twill
19. 3/1 twill
20. 2/1 twill
21. 2/2 twill
22. 3/2 twill
23. 3/3 twill
24. 4/1 twill
Broken twill
28. 3/1 twill
29. 2/1 twill
30. 2/2 twill
31. 3/2 twill
32. 3/3 twill
33. 4/1 twill
34. 4/2 twill
35. 4/3 twill
36. 4/4 twill
Others Dobby:
Cavalry Twill; 3/3-1/1,
Grendel: which twill weave effect make by twisted yarn. That means which is contained twisted yarn.
b. 1 for document
c. 3 for buyer
Machine of RND
1. CCI LOOM 2 Made by Tawan
2. CCI Warping 1
3. CCI Sizing 2
1. Warping CCI
Model # SW 550 Taiwan
2.Sizing CCI
Model # SS 565 Taiwan
3.CCI LOOM 01
THE-Studio
Premium Sample Loom
Frame =24
Prewinder =8
Quality =repier
Controlled by electric
4.CCI LOOM 02
Model # SL 8900
Premium Sample Loom
Frame =24
Pre winder =8
Quality =repier
Controlled by Air pressure
# Textronic Software (Indian)
Winding
Sizing
Warping
Beaming
Drawing
Weaving
Normal washing
Submit to marketing
Tenacity-Elongation at breaks
Warping
Karl Mayer EGROTEC
Basic concept of Sizing
1. Starch =60-65%; Make the coating the yarn
2. PVA =15-20%; Poly vinyl Acrylic increase the inner strength.
3. Binder =10-15%; Help the raw starch and remove the hairiness of yarn.
4. Wax =3-5%; Soft the yarn and remove hairiness.
Total =100%
Price of Polytex
1. Polytex-17 =169 Tk W
2. Polytex-17 =163 Tk NW
3. Polytex-60 =103 Tk
4. Polytex-BI =195 Tk
5. PVA =200 Tk
6. Wax =149 Tk
Direct warping
Flange dia =800 mm
Barrel dia. = mm
Width =1800 mm
Sectional warping
Flange dia =1000 mm
Barrel dia. =216 mm
Width =2200 mm
Weaver beam
Flange dia =1000 mm
Barrel dia. =216 mm
Width =2000 mm
Seersucker:
Bottom beam length 25% more than top beam
Bottom tension =1.0KN-2.0KN
Top tension =0.1KN-0.50KN
PICANOL
ELCA = Electronic Low Continuous Airflow
x x 0 x x x 0 x x x x x
x 0 x x x 0 x 0 x x x x
0 x x x 0 x x x 0 x x x
x x x 0 x x x x x 0 x x
x x 0 x x x 0 x x x 0 x
x 0 x x x 0 x 0 x x x 0
0 x x x 0 x x x 0 x x x
9 10 11 12
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
Lifting plan
3/1 Zigzag twill
0 x 0 x x x
x 0 x x x 0
0 x x x 0 x
x x x 0 x 0
x x 0 x 0 x
x 0 x 0 x X
Prepared by Md. Mustafizur Rahman
Sr. Executive QAD (Central) ATML
Mobile: 01913717771
1 2 3 4 5 6
WEFT PATTERN
Weft repeat ends=Warp repeat ends/EPIXPPI
RECONNING MACHINE’S SETTING (PROGRAM)
WO TIMO 2 TEST MO -0
YARN T -9 STOP MO 0
LECCORR 1.000
DIACORR 1.00