TYPES OF PAINT/VARNISHES AND STAINS

Virtually every coating contains four basic components:

1. Pigment: Responsible for color, are finely ground particles of color that are mixed with a
binder to create paint.

2. Resin (Binder): Holds pigment particles together and provides adhesive properties.
There are two types of resins used in paint: alkyd and acrylic. Alkyd resins are derived
from petroleum, while acrylic resins are derived from monomers such as acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, and acrylate esters.

3. Solvent: Liquid in which pigment and resin are suspended. Solvents can be water-based
or oil-based. Water-based solvents are easier to clean up and are less harmful to the
environment, while oil-based solvents tend to dry slower and have a stronger smell.

4. Additives: Enhance paint performance. Additives can include anti-foaming agents, anti-
settling agents, anti-corrosion agents, surfactants, and thickeners.

PROPERTIES OF PAINTS/VARNISHES/STAINS

1. Preservation

2. Protection of the substrate (water resistance)

5. Aesthetically pleasing (appearance)

TYPES OF PAINTS

OIL PAINT—is a type of slow-drying paint that consists of particles of pigment suspended in a drying
oil, commonly linseed oil. The viscosity (thickness and stickiness) of the paint may be modified by the
addition of a solvent such as turpentine or white spirit, and varnish may be added to increase the
glossiness of the dried oil paint film. Common modern applications of oil paint are in finishing and
protection of wood in buildings and exposed metal structures such as ships and bridges. Its hard-
wearing properties and luminous colors make it desirable for both interior and exterior use on wood
and metal. It is slow drying but, the thickness of coat has considerable bearing on time required for
drying.
EMULSIONSPAINT—Modern emulsion paint is a mixture of two substances that do not mix. It is
water-base and due to the vinyl or acrylic resins added, it becomes more hard-wearing than traditional
emulsions. The paint becomes harder wearing as the shine increases; the painting. It comes in matte,
eggshell, silk, satin and full gloss ranges.
Emulsion paints are normally used for walls and ceilings. There are three types of emulsions:

a. Vinyl

b. Matt

c. Satin

Steps for painting:

i. Prime surface and fill holes/crack

ii. Apply first coat
iii. Check for defects and correct
iv. Apply evenly a second coat and allow to dry

(These are used on areas that can be washed or sponged) and vinyl silk emulsion specific to
kitchen and bathrooms. There are also special water base types of emulsions created for woodwork
which is easy to apply, but are not as hard-wearing as oil-paints. They may contain a lot of additives to
produce various properties like: antifreeze, foam control, bacterial growth control and pigment
stability.
Further more, emulsion paint can be applied either as gas (AEROSOL) or as liquid. Generally,
you will apply it by means of brushes, paint rollers and other instruments. Once it is applied, paint can
be blended with other painted regions within a certain interval of time (known as “open time”). This
interval can be extended by addition of white spirit or glycols.

VARNISHES—Is a transparent, hard, protective finish or film primarily used in wood finishing but also
for other materials. Varnish is traditionally a combination of a drying oil,a resin, and a thinner or
solvent. Varnish finishes are usually glossy but may be design to produce satin or semi-gloss sheen
by the addition of “flatting” agents. Varnish has little or no color, is transparent, and has no added
pigment, as opposed to paints or wood stains. Acrylic and waterborne varnishes “dry” by evaporation
of the water but experience an extended curing period. Varnish is made of linseed oil and fossil gum.
Any wood surface that is exposed to the weather should receive three coats of exterior paint for
maximum protection.

TYPES OF VARNISH: Violin, Shellac

Spar varnish Alkyd
Polyurethane Lacquer
Acrylic Two-Part

EMAMEL--- resembles varnish except that a pigment is added to give coloring. Enamel must be
applied with the same care that is used for varnish. Enamel come in dull or glossy finish and be used
both interior and exterior work, and for furniture. It has the advantage of drying without brush marks.
LACQUER—is a very quick-drying finish, usually made from nitrocellulose, Lacquer should not be
applied over oil paint and varnishes because it acts as a remover and softens the undercoat. Lacquer
is an excellent finish for metal work, such as brass, that will tarnish it left exposed. There are some
kinds of lacquer that can be put on with a brush, but others should be applied with a spray gun
because they dry so quickly.

SHELLAC— Is made by dissolving a gum obtained from insect in denatured alcohol. The common
mixture is four pounds of shellac to one gallon of denatured alcohol. This is called a “four pound cut”
and is generally too heavy for most jobs. It can be thinned by adding more denature alcohol. Shellac
is a quick-drying finish but brittle and does not wear particularly well. Moisture will turn shellac white.
Shellac can be bought in either white or orange.

STAINS— stain is a discoloration that can be clearly distinguished from the surface, material, or
medium it is found upon. Stains are caused by the chemical or physical interaction of two dissimilar
materials. Stains are used intentionally in a variety of fields, including (metal staining), and art (wood
staining, stained glass).

Steps for varnishing:

i. fill gaps
ii. Sand surfaces (medium grade paper)
ii. Apply sanding sealer
iii. Sand surfaces (fine grade paper)
iv. Wipe clean and apply varnish

Tools used for Paint/Varnishes/Stains Application

The Brush

The brush is available in numerous sizes; it is used greatly for “cutting in” around windows and
doors etc, for finishing off with a roller. The brush application method provides good adhesion to the
surface. Care is required not to “overload” the brush as the film coating can become uneven, take
longer to dry, peel off, run or drip.

The brush bristles will also get clogged and will make it difficult to work with. There is a wide
range in quality of brushes; this comes down to the type of bristle, (natural or synthetic), the length of
the bristles, the end of the bristles, and the density of the bristles.

Natural vs. synthetic – natural brushes tend to shed, synthetic don’t.

Synthetic are better for use with water-based paints.

Length – longer are better as they hold more paint and reduce dripping.

End of bristles – varying lengths in bristles are better, especially if the tip is tapered as it lets the paint
flow on smoothly.

Density – beware of a packed out brush! Check inside the bristles to ensure that they are not.
The Roller

This was a great invention.

It is wider than a brush and as its name suggests it rolls the paint onto the wall.
It can be used by hand or attached to a pole to paint a ceiling of high walls.
It is a quicker way to paint than using a brush and tends to use less paint as the application provides a
lighter film coating.
It provides an even finish.
It has a handle that gets attached to an angled metal frame when then takes the roller sleeve.
The sleeve is a fabric-coated tube that slots over the frame. There are many different piles for the
different types of paint application.

Pads

This is a short pile fiber pad fixed to a plastic handle.

You dip it into the paint and wipe it over the substrate to cover it with a thin film of paint.
They are available in different shapes and sizes allowing you to paint almost anything with them.
It leaves a thinner, more even and run free coat of paint than a paintbrush.

Mechanical Spraying Equipment

This is an application method that is used for difficult areas to paint, i.e. a large amount of
relief, or textures surfaces. It is also very cost effective to spray a single color for large areas; the time
involved is a lot less than rollering or brushing.

Care is required that adequate masking is done as over spray can be difficult to remove.
It is used in the application of multicolored paint finishes to great effect.

HOW TO CLEAN UP AFTER PAINTING

1. Wipe off any excess paint using a cloth or soft tissue. Gently squeezing the bristles from the
ferrule edge outwards with your fingers, or with a cloth, will help remove paint from the brush. But
be careful to avoid pulling on the bristles.

2. Rinse the brush in turpentine or oil if you've been using oils or lukewarm water if you've been
using a water-based medium. Never use hot water as it can expand the ferrule, causing the hairs
to fall out.

3. Wipe it on the cloth again to remove the last of the excess paint.

4. Wash gently using a little bit of mild soap (or a gentle dishwashing liquid). Dab the brush gently
onto the piece of soap, then work up a lather in a small container (or the palm of your hand if
you're not using any toxic pigments or solvents).

5. Rinse and repeat until there's no trace of any color coming out. Over time a brush may become
stained, but don't stop rinsing until you're sure there's no paint left.
 6. Rinse once more in clean, lukewarm water to remove any traces of soap. Shake off the water.

7. Use your fingers to gently shape the brush head into its correct shape.

8. If necessary, wrap the bristles in a piece of tissue or toilet paper while the brush is still wet. When
the paper dries it'll contract, pulling the bristles into shape.

9. Leave brush to dry at room temperature. Ensure it's not resting on its head as it will then dry
misshapen. Standing it on the back of the handle works well.

10. If you're worried about the toxicity of the paint you're working with, wear gloves while painting and
cleaning your brushes. Also if you find the paint is drying out and cracking, or staining your skin.

Tips:

1. Always use separate brushes for oil painting and water-based medium. After all, oil repels water.
Also use separate brushes for varnish, gesso, and masking fluid.

2. Don't let acrylic paint dry on a brush as its water-resistant when dry. But also never leave a brush
standing in water.

3. Never use a lot of pressure to force paint out of a brush. Be patient and rinse it several times.

4. If your brush is made from natural bristle, you can soften it by dipping it in clean oil (the one you
use as a medium) after you have cleaned it.

5. Misshapen synthetic brushes can sometimes be reshaped by soaking them in hot water (not
boiling).

What You Need

 Luke-warm water
 Mild soap
 Patience