Nail Technology Manual

Copyright 2021 © Beauty Courses Online Version 2.1

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INDEX

MODULE ONE
INTRODUCTION 7
COURSE OVERVIEW 8
ANATOMY OF THE NAIL 10
DISEASES AND DISORDERS 16

CONTRA INDICATIONS 30

MODULE TWO

SANITATION AND HYGIENE 31

IN THE SALON 44

OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH & SAFETY (OHS) 48

SKIN OVEREXPOSURE 53

HAZARDS OF NAIL GLUE 57

CLIENT RECORD KEEPING 59

MODULE THREE
PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT COMMON TO ALL SYSTEMS 63

ROOM SET UP 69

MAINTENANCE OF YOUR BRUSHES, FILES AND IMPLEMENTS 71

HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICE HAND WITH A RUBBER GLOVE 74

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MODULE FOUR

STARTING YOUR PRACTICAL ASSESSMENTS 75

NAIL SHAPES AND SHAPING 76

NATURAL NAIL PREP ON GOOD CUTICLES 80

NATURAL NAIL PREP ON OVERGROWN CUTICLES 80

SIZING, ATTACHING AND BLENDING NATURAL TIPS 82

SIZING AND ATTACHING FRENCH TIPS 82

SIZING AND ATTACHING CLEAR TIPS 82

REFILLS versus REBALANCE 84

STEPS FOR SERVICE 86

MODULE FIVE

PRODUCTS FOR DIP SYSTEM 88

NATURAL LOOK 91

NATURAL LOOK REFILL 93

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH TIP 95

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH POWDER 97

PERMANENT FRENCH REBALANCE 99

COLOURED NAIL 101

COLOUR REFILL 103

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MODULE SIX

PRODUCTS FOR ACRYLIC SYSTEM 106

PRACTICING WITH THE LIQUID AND POWDER 109

NATURAL LOOK 110

NATURAL LOOK REFILL 112

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH TIP 114

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH POWDER 116

PERMANENT FRENCH REBALANCE 118

SCULPTING WITH ACRYLIC 120

COLOURED NAIL 122

COLOUR REFILL 122

MODULE SEVEN

PRODUCTS FOR GEL SYSTEM 123

INFORMATION ABOUT THE CURING LAMPS 128

SAFETY OF THE CURING LAMPS 129

VARIATION IN CURING TIMES 130

NATURAL LOOK 131

NATURAL LOOK REFILL 133

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH TIP 134

PERMANENT FRENCH WITH GEL 136

PERMANENT FRENCH REBALANCE 138

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MODULE EIGHT

BUFF & POLISH 140

NAIL PAINTING 141

REPAIR A BROKEN NAIL 143

PREP ON DAMAGED NAIL ENHANCEMENT 143

PREP ON LIFTING NAIL ENHANCEMENT 143

TEMPORARY TIPS 144

REMOVE NAIL ENHANCEMENTS 145

MODULE NINE

PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT FOR GEL POLISH 148

CHOOSING THE GEL POLISH 151

CURING THE GEL POLISH 152

GEL POLISH APPLICATION ON NAIL ENHANCEMENT 154

GEL POLISH REMOVAL ON NAIL ENHANCEMENT 156

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MODULE TEN

DRILL AND DRILL BITS 157

DRILL EXERCISE 163

PREPARE NAIL PLATE AND CUTICLE WITH DRILL 164

BLEND TIP WITH DRILL 164

CUT BACK FOR MAINTENANCE WITH DRILL 165

REMOVE COATING WITH DRILL 165

BUFF & CLEANUP WITH DRILL 165

FINISH AND REFINE THE NAIL ENHANCEMENT WITH DRILL 165

REMOVE NAIL ENHANCEMENT WITH DRILL 166

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 MODULE ONE

INTRODUCTION

Our nail course has been designed as instruction for those wishing to learn how to apply nails
for personal use or profit.

The systems we will be teaching in this course are the Dip System (SNS), Acrylic (liquid and
powder) and Gel, both builder gel and gel polish application.

The instructional videos will give you the confidence to do your own nails and those of your
friends and family and may create a great opportunity for you to start a very profitable business
with very little outlay.

Nail technicians perform more than six billion dollars worth of services, manicure, pedicures and
nail enhancements per year to millions of image-conscious clients. It is one of the fastest
growing industries in the world with constant development in product improvement and
application techniques.

As a nail technician you have unlimited potential. You will become an integral part of your
clients’ lives offering them ongoing service to help them look and feel their best.

This skill is not as easy as it looks and will take some time and perseverance to perfect, but with
practice and guidance from us you will be confident with your skills in no time. We are only an
email away.

Please pay special attention to the areas in module 2 covering all aspects of sanitation and
hygiene, OHS and especially the section on Overexposure to Nail Products and the Hazards of
glue.

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COURSE OVERVIEW

Please make sure you read through this section or watch the video on the student site in
its entirety so can work through this course without any confusion.
The course is put together in chronological order so please do not skip any of the
following steps.
First of all – download your training manual, which you will find under the Course Resources
tab at the top of any page on this site.
Once downloaded you can print the manual out if you would prefer a hard copy.
Second - While you are in Course Resources take the opportunity to also print out your Log
Sheets and Log Sheet guide, so you have everything ready to go for your practical work. You
may also want to be getting your client records cards and consultation sheets organised.
Third - You may at this point like to have a look at the Products and Equipment Video in Module
3 for the products and equipment common to all systems, and then Module 4, 5 and 6 for the
products for each nail system, so you can start sourcing everything ready for your practical
assessments on your models.
Four - Read through the entire Training Manual and make sure you understand everything
before watching the videos.
Five -Start watching the videos “IN ORDER” and make sure you click the “mark complete”
button at the bottom so you can move on to the next video. If you do not push the “mark
complete” button you will not be able to move on. The site will keep track of where you are up
to.
Once you have watched the videos you can go back and forth as much as you like to re-watch.
There is a quiz at the end of each module so you can check your progress.
Six - After watching all the videos on this site, you can then go back to Module 4, 5 or 6
depending on which system you are learning first and begin working on your models.
If you are not confident to start on your models, we show you in the videos how to make a
practice hand from a rubber glove that you can do some practice on first.
You have step by step guidance for each system, showing how to do different nail styles.
Watch it as many times as you need until you are confident to start working on your models.

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I also suggest you set your device up where you can see it, with the sound off, so you can
watch while you are working in case you forget the next step.
Make sure you perfect each step before moving on to the next and you have a thorough
knowledge and understanding of your products and how they are used.

YOUR PRACTICAL ASSESSMENTS

You need to send your practical assessments in as you complete them.
All of your practical assessment requirements are set out in the Log Sheet Guide, how they are
made up and how we would like the photographic evidence sent through. We need the name of
the model and date of service in the email with the photos and one service per email only.
You need to keep detailed records of every treatment on your Log Sheets as we will ask for
these before your exam.
Please do not skip through or you will miss important steps and work that needs to be sent to us
for feedback and assessment.
You cannot sit the final exam until ALL practical assessments have been submitted.

PHOTOGRAPHIC EVIDENCE

Please check the sample photos at the bottom of the Treatment Log guide which you will find
under Course Resources on the student site.

Each photo has a caption, some are just to show you an example of correct and incorrect and
are accordingly marked, so just the others.

We need all 10 fingers, all stages and angles taken exactly the same as the sample photos.
Please check your angles are correct and your photos are not blurred as you are taking them.
We need them sent through as normal attachments, no drop box or collage with the name of the
model and date of service in each email and sent as you do each assessment.

One model per email and if you need to send each set in more than one email just mark them
Jane #1, Janes #1 etc. Keep detailed records on your Log sheets as we will ask for them once
all photographic evidence has been submitted.

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ANATOMY OF THE NAIL
Nails are a protective covering for the fingertip and contain a large amount of keratin (protein).
They are made up of the outer surface, the hardest part which is smooth and shiny and the
underpart which is the softest part made up of lots of parallel ridges that run lengthwise and fit
exactly into similar depressions in the nail bed.

The nail takes approximately 130-160 days to grow from the matrix to the free edge. Growth is
more exaggerated in summer than winter and thin nails will grow more quickly than thick ones.

NAILS DO NOT BREATH PAST THE CUTICLE. However the nail bed requires oxygen and
need to omit toxins. Some people's nail beds are so sensitive that even wearing nail polish can
cause nail and nail bed to separate. In cases like this it is not advised to apply artificial coatings
OF ANY KIND.

The nail consists of three main divisions:

The Root (Matrix) - Very soft and thin and partly embedded beneath the cuticle.
The matrix is what actually produces the nail by multiplication of new cells pushing old cells
forward. It contains nerves and blood vessels and is very sensitive. If the matrix is damaged it
can cause disfigurement to the nail often permanently.

The Body (Nail Plate) - The hard pinkish section starting at the cuticle and actually attached to
the nail bed.

The Free Edge (Distal Edge or Free Margin) - The hard white tip which extends over the edge
of the fingertip.

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 PARTS OF THE NAIL

There are 8 main parts to a Nail

The Free Edge

This is the part of the nail that extends from the end of the nail bed outwards past
the fingertip.

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The Nail Plate

The Nail Plate is the actual Visible Fingernail which extends from the matrix to the
free edge. It is kept in place by interlocking cells on the underside and serves as a
protective cover for the finger.

The Laternal Fold and the Nail Groove

The Laternal Fold are the folds of skin which sit neatly on each side of the finger,and
creates the nail groove.
The nail groove is the groove down the sides of the natural nail that the natural
nailsits in and it provides protection for the sides of the nail plate as it grows.

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The Lunula

The half-moon area at the base of the nail is called the lunula. This is surrounded by
the eponychium (better known as the cuticle).

It is the visible part of the nail Matrix and is where keratinisation takes place. It is
the softest part of the nail because it is still hardening as it grows. It appears white
because the cells are tightly packed together which obscures the blood vessels

The Eponychium

Is the fold behind the cuticle and consists of layer of epidermis.

The nail emerges from under this fold from the matrix

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The Cuticle

The cuticle is the overlapping dead skin from the underside of the eponychium and
sticks to the nail plate. It protects the Matrix from bacteria and physical damage.

This should be regularly oiled and gently pushed back which keeps the cuticle soft
making it less likely to split and dry out, and also adds length to the nail.

The Nail Bed

The Nail Bed lies underneath the nail plate and starts at the matrix and ends at the
free edge and is what the nail plate sits on… This area is extremely sensitive if the
nail is broken into it or removed.

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The Matrix

The area between the cuticle and the first knuckle is called the matrix. The matrix is
the root system and actually produces the nail by multiplication of new cells pushing
old cells forward. It contains nerves and blood vessels and is very sensitive. If the
matrix is damaged it can cause disfigurement to the nail often permanently.

Nail Surfaces

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DISEASE AND DISORDERS
It is imperative to distinguish between a disease and a disorder of the nail. Where in
doubt, treat the nail as if it is diseased and do not work on it but refer client to
physician to be safe.

NAIL DISORDERS
The following are basic disorders which do not require medical attention and can
usually be self treated or need no treatment at all. You would not normally use any
form of artificial nail or coating on any of these nails until the condition has be
rectified. However in most cases of disorders light manicure can be performed.

Longtitudinal Ridging

Usually an ageing or hereditary condition, can also be caused by lacking in the diet.
Nails need to be well hydrated with oils to stop ridges from splitting. Do not try to buff
the ridges out as this will thin the nail down and cause it to split.

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Transverse Ridges

Horizontal ridges across the nail plate caused by uneven growth rate usually resulting from
illness or injury to the matrix or injurious manicure and pushing cuticles back too far. Manicure
gently. Again do not try to buff the ridges out.

Splinter Haemorrhages

Tiny splinters of blood appearing beneath the nail plate, looking like a splinter. Usually occur
after a hard blow to the nail. Can also indicate liver disease. No treatment is required. Do not try
and remove, they will grow out with the nail.

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Koilonychia

Spoon nails which grow with an upward/concave curve. Usually stems from iron deficiency or
anaemia. Can also be caused by age, chronic eczema and tumours. Nail plate is often rippled
and opaque. No treatment required but gentle care should be taken as nail plate is usually
fragile. (It is not suggested to apply any coating).

Egg Shell Nails

Nail plates with a bluish/white hue, usually due to lack of keratin in the nail plate or thin nails
growing too fast. No treatment necessary. (It is not suggested to apply any coating).

Blue Nails

Nail bed appears very blue in colour. Caused by poor blood circulation or heart condition.
Massage regularly to stimulate circulation.

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Hang Nails

Small splinters of hardened skin or nail in nail groove or surrounding tissue often linked to nail
biting, but more likely caused by irritation from detergents, acids, lemons, etc. Paper is also a
major cause of dry cuticles and hands. Remove with clippers and massage with oil or lanolin. If
left untreated may become deeper and subject to infection.

Pterygium

Very thin obstinate growth of cuticle (skin) onto base of nail at cuticle end usually due to
improper nail care. Hot oil manicure then gently massage and treat with cuticle remover. Must
be removed before any coating applied or coating will lift.

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Onychophagy

Neurotic nail biting to the extent that it causes nail deformities, hang nails and infections. Also
introduces bacteria into the body that can cause illness. Regular manicure, hot oil. Quite often
covering the nails with some form of artificial nail is the only way to break the habit. However
some people will also bite the artificial nail.

Leuconychia

White spots commonly appearing on the nail plate. Causes range from injury to the matrix,
bruising of the nail plate or lack of zinc. Treat as normal but do not apply too much pressure.

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Onychauxis

Hypertrophy. Slow growing nails, very thick in density, usually due to ageing but can be
congenital or acquired from infection. If no infection present, file smooth and buff gently.

Onychorrexis

Splitting, peeling nails usually resulting from harsh detergents or chemical solutions. Sometimes
due to injury of the finger joint, arthritis or possibly result of internal condition or poor diet. Hot oil
manicure. In some cases covering a vertical split with a tip holds the nail together long enough
to mend as it is growing out, but this solution is usually not a permanent cure.

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Onychogryposis

Claw Nail. Nail becomes extremely thick, twisting or clawing over the end of the finger usually
caused by injury. There would be no reason to coat these nails as they are already extremely
thick.

Bruised Nails

Large areas of blood reflecting through nail plate caused by injury. Normal growth of nail will
depend on extent of damage. If the damage is too severe the nail will usually fall off and a new
healthy nail will then grow. Do not treat.

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Habit Tick

Nervous habit of picking at or playing with nails. Thumb nails are most commonly
damaged by other nails. Treat with regular manicure and keep nails very short until
habit broken.

Verruca Vulgarise

Common warts. Commonly found on the fingers and hands. Manicure depends upon location
and severity. Although not contagious you may want to have your client get the warts treated
before commencing any procedure.

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Nail disorders which CANNOT be coated
Onycholysis

Nail begins separating from nail bed at free edge and progresses back towards cuticle. Can be
caused by persistent injury. More likely from condition or illness such as psoriasis, thyroid
deficiency or eczema. Can also be caused by fungal infection or certain antibiotics. Medical
attention may help. Keep nails short so as not to aggravate condition.

Onychocryptosis

Ingrown nail. More commonly found in toe nails. Should be treated by physician to avoid
infection.

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Onychomadesis

Onychoptosis. Separation of nail from nail bed beginning at cuticle end and progressing forward
until nails fall off completely. Usually caused by malfunction of the matrix being deprived of
nutrition. Should be treated by physician.

NAIL DISEASES

The following are more common diseases which must not have a coating applied and should be
referred to a physician. Most of these are highly contagious and you should not be working on
anyone with any sign of any of the following:

Paronychia
Tissue surrounding nail (cuticle) becomes inflamed causing redness, swelling and pain. Usually
caused by a pulled cuticle. Paronychia left untreated can result in Onychia. Keep area clean and
sterile and use an antibacterial lotion.

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Onychia

Inflammation of the matrix and cuticle, redness, swelling and puss, often resulting in loss of nail.
Nail will grow back if matrix is not permanently damaged. Area can be lanced to allow puss to
exit, then kept clean and sterile and treated with antibacterial lotion. In some cases medication
is required.

PARONYCHIA AND ONYCHIA CAN BE CAUSED BY UNSTERILIZED MANICURE

EQUIPMENT OR STAPHYLOCOCCI OR STREPTOCOCCI INFECTION, but is
more commonly caused by picking or pulling at cuticle.

Onychomycoses

Ringworm or parasitic disease of nails. Nail becomes dry, lack lustre, soft and furrowed.
Infected layers separate to show infected nail bed.

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Tinea Unguis

Fungus of the nail or skin. More common in feet.

White Fungus
A yeast like bacteria that forms under the nail and travels up the nail bed towards the cuticle.
Artificial nail must be removed and natural nail treated until clear.

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Water Mould
When water is trapped between nail and nail bed or natural nail and artificial nail. Begins as a
grey shadow and advances if unattended to, as a green/black shadow increasing in size.
Artificial nail must be removed and natural nail treated until clear. As shown in picture 2, usually
the quickest and most effective treatment is to remove the mouldy nail and the nail will grow
back healthy. This is not usually painful as the nail is already totally detached from the nail bed.

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Pigmentation and discolouration of nail plate

Not all discolouration of the nail plate is due to disease or fungal infection. Below is a list of
more common discolourations and possible causes.

Black

• Dyes or stains. Can be soaked in solution or lightly buffed to remove colour and wrapped
as normal.
• VITAMIN B DEFICIENCY
• VARIOUS FUNGAL INFECTIONS Cannot be wrapped

Brown

• Fungal infection
• Bacterial paronychia
• Nail rot possibly caused by moisture and dirt trapped beneath artificial nail.
• Must be treated by physician. Do not wrap.

Ruddy Brown

• Oxidisation and stain from certain nail enamel.

• Dye or stain.
• Soak in solution, lightly buff to remove discolouration.
• Wrap as normal.

Green

• Bacterial infection
• Mould
• Cannot be wrapped

Yellow

• Nicotine stain - soak in solution, lightly buff to remove discolouration and wrap as
normal. Old acrylic which has crystallised and discoloured (file back close to the natural
nail and re-coat)
• Psoriasis (do not wrap)
• Disorder of the lymph system.

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CONTRA-INDICATIONS FOR NAIL SERVICES

Contra indications are conditions that will either prevent or restrict you doing a nail service on a
client’s hands or feet.

It is not only for the benefit of the client you are about to work on, to ensure you give them the
best possible treatment you can, but also for the protection of yourself and any further clients to
avoid cross contamination and spreading of infection.

Things that will prevent you doing a nail service include:

• Everything listed in the disease section of this manual preceding this section, as
well as some of the things listed in the disorders section.
• Contagious disease or virus such as a cold, flu or Covid to name a few
• Bacterial infection of the skin such as impetigo (school sores)
• Fungal infections of the skin such as ringworm
• Parasitic infection such as head lice or scabies
The reason being all of these are easily transferred from one person to another, or by coming
into contact with anything that a contaminated person has touched, so you need to protect
yourself and other clients.
• Recent broken or fractured bones in the area you are working on
• Recent Scarring
• Open sores or cuts
• Any unusual or undiagnosed lumps or swelling
Your client will need to get permission from their doctor if presenting with any of these
conditions, and wait until they are completely healed, or you risk aggravating or exacerbating
the issue or risk infection.

Things that will restrict what you do in a hand or foot nail treatment include:
• Sensitivities to ingredients in your products
• Eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis
• Some of the things listed in the disorders section of this manual
Allergies to ingredients in you products should be covered in the initial client consultation. You
will need to have good knowledge of what ingredients are in your products and can add a list to
the bottom of the Medical Form for them to check. Always have a backup product.

Conditions such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis can all have gentle treatment as long as
they are not active and under control.

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 MODULE TWO
SANITATION & HYGIENE

Please read and understand this section very carefully. This is a most important area of your
business as you do not want to be responsible for spreading any infection either to yourself or
your clients.

Depending on which country you are living in there may be state or federal regulations that
relate to the practice of Beauty Therapy.

There will also be state and territory guidelines for the manufacture, sale and use of chemical
ingredients for safety in the workplace.

Occupational Health and Safety has been created in most states (Countries) to regulate and
enforce safety and health standards to protect employees in the workplace.

It is important that employees are protected from exposure to potentially toxic substances and
well informed about possible hazards of materials used in Beauty Therapy.

Please make sure you read through the OHS section of this manual and also a copy of your
local OHS laws (state government available via the internet) and read through it carefully to
make sure you and anyone you are working with or working on is well protected from any
potentially hazardous ingredients in the Facial Products.

MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) are available from your wholesaler for every product you
purchase and will contain all information about the product including names and potentially
hazardous ingredients, safe use and handling procedures,risk of accidental harm or
overexposure, flammable warnings, disposal guidelines and medical information if needed in
case of an accident.

CROSS INFECTION AND HOW IT HAPPENS

It is important to remember that one careless action could cause injury or infection to not only
yourself, but your client or worse still multiple clients. Preventing the spread of infections is easy
if you follow proper hygiene and sanitary precautions AT ALL TIMES.

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Potentially harmful organisms that are important to Beauty Therapists are bacteria, viruses,
fungi and parasites.

An infectious or contagious disease is caused by harmful organisms that will spread very easily
from one person to another. For this reason it is important that you do not treat your clients if
you are suffering from an infectious disease or if they are suffering from an infectious disease.
Infections can be spread between the client and operator, and from client to client, from you to
other employees of the salon and even from you to your family and friends. It is important to
remember that one careless action could cause injury or infection to many people.

Preventing the spread of infections is easy if you follow proper hygiene and sanitary precautions
AT ALL TIMES and understand the importance of following the health guidelines.

Most people that visit your salon will be free of diseases, some will unknowingly have come into
contact with a contagious condition and in rare cases they may know that they have a
contagious condition but hope that you will proceed with the service anyway.

If you follow the recommended procedures set out by your State or Territory, you and your
clients will be protected from cross infection. In Module 2 this learner guide you will cover how to
identify contagious diseases, so you know when you can and more importantly when you
cannot treat a client and when to refer to the relevant medical practitioner.

Some common contagious diseases are ringworm, conjunctivitis, common cold, natural nail or
toe and foot infections, viral infections, Covid. Common sources for spreading these infections
are dirty hands, most particularly the webs between the fingers and under the fingernails.

Other sources are contaminated implements, infected nails, cuts, open sores, mouth and nose
discharges, shared drinking cups, towels and telephone receivers, door handles.

For this reason it is important that you do not treat your clients if you are suffering from an
infectious disease or if they are suffering from an infectious disease.

Beauty professionals are not permitted to diagnose, treat or recommend treatments for
infections, disease or abnormal conditions. You must advise your client to seek professional
advice from their physician and they can only return for salon services after their condition has
been successfully treated.

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Micro-organisms

Micro-organisms are everywhere! On all the surfaces you can see, on you and your clothes, on
the tools and equipment you use. Most of these micro-organisms are harmless; some are even
needed to maintain our health.

However, there are some micro-organisms that are harmful to us and cause illness and disease.

The goal of infection control procedures is to kill these harmful micro- organisms and to stop the
movement of them between people (cross-infection).

The micro-organisms of interest in Infection control are bacteria, fungi and viruses.

BACTERIA

Also known as microbes or germs, are one-celled micro-organisms, which are of microscopic or
sub-microscopic size and are so small they can only be seen with a microscope.

Micro-organisms have plant and animal characteristics. Some of these are harmful and some
are harmless.

Bacteria can exist almost anywhere, in water, decayed matter, clothing, skin, body secretions
and particularly under the free edge of a nail.

There are thousands of different kinds of bacteria that fall into two primary types, nonpathogenic
and pathogenic.

Non-pathogenic are harmless, safe to come into contact with and perform many useful functions
i.e. Bacteria are used to make some medicines, cheese and yoghurt. Non-pathogenic bacteria
help the body break down food, stimulate the immune system and protect against infection.

Pathogenic are harmful as they may cause infection or disease in humans when they invade the
body. It is for this reason that it is vital that salons prevent the spread of pathogenic
microorganisms and maintain sanitary standards at all times.

An example of a pathogenic bacterial is golden staph: This is a bacterium that has caused
problems in hospitals. Its real name is Staphylococcus aureus. It is conical in shape, grows in
grape like clusters and it has a gold colour. Many people in the population carry golden staph,
they often do not know it and it may cause them no problems, but it easily passed on to others.

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The shape of golden staph, the way it grows and its colour help scientists to classify it and give
it a name.

Bacterial Infections occur when body tissues are invaded by disease-causing or pathogenic
bacteria. Without the presence of pathogenic bacteria there can be no bacterial infection, so if
they are eliminated clients cannot become infected.

FUNGAL

Fungi are next on our list. Some are useful micro-organisms to humans. For example they are
used as yeast in bread-baking and in making soy sauce, but many of them are harmful to
humans.

Fungi is a microscopic plant parasite which includes moulds, mildews and yeast. It can produce
contagious diseases such as ringworms.

Infections are commonly spread by the use of dirty implements or improper cleaning of the
therapists hands before treatment.

Fungi that are harmful in facial services are usually rare. They like a warm, moist and dark
environment. Fungi like the keratin (a Chemical protein) in the skin. An example of the type of
fungi that can cause problems for you is those that cause tinea, ringworm and candida.

It is very easy to spread either a bacterial or fungal to other clients or even yourself if everything
that touches the client is not either disposed of (disposable or single-use items) or properly
cleaned and disinfected before it is re used.

Any fungal infections should be treated by a doctor and completely eliminated before you can
commence treatment.

VIRUSES

A virus is a parasitic sub-microscopic particle that infects the cells of a biological organism
which is only capable of replication through taking over the host cell’s reproduction machinery.
They are so small you will need the most sophisticated and powerful microscopes to see them.

Many common illnesses are caused by virus including gastrointestinal infections, the common
cold, measles chicken pox, mumps, smallpox, rabies, hepatitis, yellow fever, influenza, polio
and HIV (AIDS).

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Viruses can live and reproduce only by penetrating other cells and becoming part of them,
where bacterial can live and reproduce on their own.

Specific antibiotics will treat bacterial infections whereas viruses are hard to kill without harming
the body in the process.

Blood borne pathogens are disease-causing micro-organisms that are carried in the body by
blood or body fluids.

The spread of these blood borne pathogens can be through anything that may cut the client’s
skin such as shaving, clipping tweezing, nipping, certain facial treatments and even waxing.

Great care should be taken to avoid cutting or damaging the client’s skin during any service.

PARASITES

Parasites are an organism that feed, shelter and grow on or in another organism which is
referred to as the host. They contribute nothing to the survival of the host, but must have a host
to survive.

They can live either on or inside humans and animals, but are also found in food, on trees and
plants and in water.

NEVER perform a service on a client if their skin shows visible signs of infection. You may only
work on healthy skin.

Clients are not obliged to tell you that they have blood borne diseases like HIV and Hepatitis.
But you are safe to do treatments on them provided you follow the guidelines.

If the client tells you they have a blood borne disease you must not reveal that information to
other people.

As a result of the privacy considerations the industry works as if everyone has a blood borne
disease and everyone strictly follows the correct procedures to prevent cross-infection.

That way you are automatically protected whether your client has a blood borne disease or not.

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The above information should not make you uncertain and apprehensive in providing nail
services. You should not be concerned because there are guidelines, procedures, tools,
chemicals and equipment all designed to make it safe for you to work in the nail and beauty
industries.

ROUTES OF INFECTION

The first thing you should know is how cross infections can occur. There are many routes of
infection. Intact skin is the body's first defense against infection. You should make sure that you
have no cuts or abrasions on your skin, if you have cuts and abrasions you should cover them
with a waterproof dressing and gloves, and you should keep the skin of your hands moisturized
and supple.

The first route of infection to consider is through the penetration of the skin. In facial services
it might be through accidental cutting of the client's skin. The instrument is then infected and you
must follow the right sterilisation process before using the instrument again.

The second route of infection is through open wounds or cuts. If your client has a cut in the
skin and if you also have an uncovered cut on your finger, the client's blood can enter your body
through the wound.

The third route of infection contamination of instruments is another way that infection travels
from one person to another.

You need to follow a particular procedure to make sure that all instruments you use are cleaned
and disinfected properly and then stored correctly until they are used on the next client. For
example, if you use a facial sponge on a client and there is a tinea infection that is not visible
you will transfer the tinea to the next client if you reuse the sponge without following the correct
disinfection processes. This is why disposables are so much safer.

Next you should consider what the client comes into contact with and what needs to be changed
after a service. For example, the gown, headband and sheets or towels on the bed have all
come into contact with the client and must not be used on another client until it has been
laundered correctly.

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Finally, the fourth source of infection is contamination. This can happen when, for example,
you put a tissue you have used to say do extractions on to your bench top. The bench top then
becomes a potential source of cross contamination during the service. All waste should go
directly into the rubbish bin.

So you can see that there are a lot of things you need to do consistently to keep your salon safe
for everyone.

PREVENTING CROSS-INFECTION

How do you work safely and protect yourself and the client from cross-infection? The first point
is correct hand washing, the second point is minimising risk and the third point is minimising
blood to blood contact and the fourth point is correct cleaning and disinfecting of equipment.

THE FIRST POINT – HAND WASHING

All health authorities say that the foundation of preventing cross infection is correct and regular
hand washing. Incorrect and sloppy hand washing does not protect you. So how do you wash
hands correctly?

Once the client has arrived in the service area you need to wash your hands. The spread of
infection from hands has been recognised as the single most important factor in preventing
infection (after cleaning and sterilising equipment) and cannot be overstated. Unbroken skin is
the best defence because it provides the perfect barrier against infection. The purpose of
washing hands is to reduce any micro-organisms that may be present. Unless the fingernails
are visibly dirty, a nailbrush should not be used because it may cause breaks in the skin during
vigorous brushing. Obvious dirt under the nails must be removed.

First, wet hands with warm running water, use liquid soap (one pump measure is sufficient),
then rub hands vigorously for a minimum of 15 seconds. Look at the diagram and be sure to
wash your hands all over including:
• Back of hands
• Wrists
• Between finger
• Under fingernails

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Rinse hands well after washing is complete and pat dry hands thoroughly using single use
paper towel. Good hand-washing facilities are essential and should be located within the service
area in view of the client. Liquid soap dispensers using single-use cassettes are recommended,
because they do not permit a topping-up process and they minimise the risk of contamination.

• Wash your hands

• Before and after contact with each client
• After contact with blood or body fluids
• After using a tissue or handkerchief
• After smoking 46
• After going to the toilet
• Before and after eating
• After answering the phone or touching any potentially contaminated objects,
• and before returning to a client.

CORRECT HAND WASHING TECHNIQUE

For basic services plain liquid soap is suitable. If you are doing skin penetration procedures then
you must use one of the following antibacterial soap solutions:
• aqueous 2% chlorhexidine-based solution
• aqueous 4% chlorhexidine-based solution
• aqueous povidone-iodine
• triclosan 2% solution (for people with an allergy to the chlorhexidine or povidone-iodine
solutions)

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Small areas of broken or infected skin on exposed parts of the operator's body or the treatment
area of the client's hands or feet, should be covered with a waterproof dressing that completely
covers the affected area. If a cut or abrasion is on the hands, then single-use gloves should be
worn during all procedures.

THE SECOND POINT – RISK MINIMISATION

Your best way of dealing with the potential of cross-infection is to use risk minimisation
procedures all the time. These include:

• Wash your hands before and after working on a client, before working on\ the next client
and if you are interrupted during a service, when you resume the service. Refer to the
section below that is headed Hand Washing for more information.
• Use clean disposable gloves when you think you might come into contact with blood or
body fluids.
• Cover any wounds on you or the client with a waterproof dressing that completely covers
the affected area. You can also use clean disposable gloves if you have a cut on your
hand.
• Use disposable or single use equipment where possible. For example, single use
sponges and headbands. You can give the sponges to your client to take home to use or
just throw them out.Use equipment that has been properly cleaned and disinfected or if
necessary, sterilised
• Keep the premises in a clean condition, regularly cleaning surfaces, chairs, tables and
floors.
• Handle and dispose of sharps correctly.
• Liquid soap and single use paper towels should be used for hand washing.
• Linen that has come into contact with the client's skin should be changed after each
client and laundered according to the State or Territory guidelines.
• Waste should be disposed of in accordance with your State or Territory guidelines. Make
sure you dispose of waste directly into the proper bin.
• Use pump dispensers for lotions and creams. If this is not possible a new spatula can be
used to remove cream from a jar. Never reuse the spatula and never use your fingers to
remove cream from the jar.
• Keep accurate records of all treatments and services with the date and time recorded.
• Immunisation against Hepatitis B is recommended. You need to consult your personal
doctor about this option.
• Follow the workplace procedure for the cleaning and disinfection of tools and equipment
and never mix clean and unclean instruments.

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THE THIRD POINT – MINIMISING BLOOD TO BLOOD CONTACT

Micro-organisms can also be spread through blood to blood contact. For example, an invisible
trace of blood on equipment can spread diseases such as HIV, Hepatitis B and Hepatitis C. You
must assume that all blood and body substances are a potential source of infection.

As a Beauty Therapist you are responsible for minimising the risk of infection. You need to learn
proper sanitation and disinfection procedures and follow them. Shortcutting these procedures
will put clients and you at risk of becoming infected.

Following are the steps you must take to protect yourself and the client from infection while
performing any hand and foot service:

• Use proper sanitation and disinfection procedures consistently.

• Do not work near an open wound. Ensure that the open wound is thoroughly covered
and disinfect the area around the wound before commencing the service. If unsure about
servicing the client, recommend that the client seek medical attention before providing a
service.
• Be very careful when working with sharp objects to avoid damaging a client's skin and
making them more prone to infection.
• Wear disposable gloves to protect yourself against cross-infection, and dispose of
gloves after each client.

THE FOURTH POINT – CLEANING AND DISINFECTING EQUIPMENT

• Proper prevention procedures can be achieved by two methods:

• Cleaning and disinfecting
• Cleaning and sterilizing.
• Because salons have a very low risk of infection compared to places such as body
piercing/tattoo studios or medical facilities, they only need to clean and disinfect. Any
instrument or part of an instrument used on a client should be cleaned with detergent
and warm water, dried and either thermally or chemically disinfected before being used
on another client.

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CLEANING

The first step in any decontamination method is proper cleaning, which is removing all visible
dirt and debris from tools, implements and equipment with liquid soap and water.

Proper cleaning will great reduce the number of germs on the surface and thus the risk of
infection.

A surface must be properly cleaned before it can be disinfected. If the majority of the
contaminants and pathogens are not washed from the surface the disinfectant will most likely
become contaminated and not work efficiently.

Proper cleaning of instruments and hand washing are the most powerful ways to prevent the
spread of infection.

Some methods of cleaning are:

• Washing well with low sudsing antibacterial soap and warm water and a properly
disinfected scrubbing brush
• Using an ultrasonic unit
• Using a cleaning solvent

DISINFECTING

The second step to prevent the spread of germs and disease is disinfection.

Disinfection will eliminate most, but not all microorganisms on non-living surfaces, however it is
not effective against bacterial spores, and is very effective in the salon for surfaces, and
equipment such as nippers, scissors and other multi-use tools.

Chemical disinfectants will destroy all bacteria, fungi and viruses (NOT SPORES) on surfaces.
They are not to be used on human skin, hair or nails and care must be taken to wear gloves
when working with this product.

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STERILIZATION

Although not normally relevant to the salon professional sterilization is a process that completely
destroys all microbial life, including spores and is only necessary when an instrument comes
into contact with blood.

The most effective and common way to sterilize instruments (normally medical) is by an
Autoclave.
If your implements come into contact with blood they will need to be properly sterilized or
disposed of.

Thermal disinfection uses heat and water (moist heat) at temperatures that destroy most
organisms. It is the most cost-effective and efficient method of disinfection. It is only suitable for
items that can be fully immersed in water at high temperatures.

Autoclave is the most effective form of thermal sterilization available. Autoclaves use water,
pressure, and heat to create superheated steam that kills micro organisms and spores. For any
metal instruments that have come into contact with blood, this is the only accepted form or
sterilizing and disinfecting.

All items must be fully immersed for the time indicated in the table below once the water boils.
Additional items must not be added during this boiling stage.

Surface temperature (°C) Minimum disinfection time (minute)

90 1
80 10
75 30
70 100

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DISINFECTANTS

You must always read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions, relating to mixing ratios
(dilution) and contact time. Not all disinfectants have the same concentration, so it is important
that you read the directions to get the correct mix. If your product does not have the word
“concentrated” on it, then it is ready to use as it and must not be diluted any further.

Any EPA-registered liquid hospital disinfectant will be effective enough for a salon. While
working with any disinfectant is it important that you wear gloves and follow the proper protocol.

All implements must first be thoroughly cleaned with soap and warm water and a sterile
scrubbing brush. Any residue can interfere with the disinfectant and prevent proper disinfection.
Cleaned implements must be completely immersed in disinfectant solution for the
recommended amount of time (see manufacturer’s instructions) but at least 10 minutes.

Quaternary ammonium compounds are also very effective when used properly in the salon,
however while many of these formulas may not contain anti-rust ingredients, leaving tools in the
solution for prolonged periods may cause damage.

Household bleach, 5.25 percent is another effective disinfectant that can be used in salons,
however again this may cause rust and damage to your instruments and skin and eye irritation if
not used correctly.

PLEASE NOTE:

If your metal instruments have come into contact with blood, you need to either sterilize them in
an autoclave or throw them out.

Disinfectant alone will not remove all traces of blood.

If you do not have an autoclave, check with your local dentists or doctors to see if you can pay
to use theirs from time to time when needed.

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SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR DISINFECTANTS

• Keep MSDS on hand (Material Safety Data Sheets)

• Wear gloves and if necessary protective eyewear when mixing
• When diluting, you should always add the disinfectant to the water, not the water to the
disinfectant to prevent foaming.
• Always use room temperature water.
• Use tongs or a draining basket to remove implements from disinfectants
• Keep out of reach of children at all times
• Only use disinfectant in accordance with label instructions
• Follow manufacturer’s instructions for mixing, using and disposing or product
• Change disinfectant solution every day, or more regularly if it has become soiled or
contaminated
• Do not store large amounts of mixed solution. Mix the solution on a daily basis.
• Do not let any disinfecting solution come into contact with your skin, if this occurs wash
immediately with liquid soap and warm water and dry thoroughly.
• Never place solution in an unmarked container.

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IN THE SALON

It is extremely important that both yourself, your environment and the products and equipment
you are using are kept clean and sterile.

Your personal appearance should reflect your professionalism. Clean clothes, hair tied back if
long or styled if short. No jewellery as this can catch and also be distracting. Make sure you use
deodorant as you are working in very close proximity and also clean your teeth and use
mouthwash.

You should always begin by washing your hands with an antibacterial cleanser followed by hand
sanitizer. The client should always do the same.

Only liquid soap and sanitizer should be used and dispensed from an automatic dispenser.

Hands should be dried with paper towel or automatic hand drier.

Your work table should be wiped over with disinfectant after every client to remove germs and
dust.

Your towels need to be changed between every client and laundered in the appropriate manner,
using a quaternary ammonium compound solution and following dilution requirements or by
immersing them in water at a temperature of 160F degrees for no less than 5 minutes at some
time during the washing or rinsing operation.

Files should be single use and disposed of or given to your clients to take home. You can set up
a file pack for each client but they need to be disinfected between each use. They need to be
scrubbed with a brush and hot soapy water and sprayed well with a hospital grade disinfectant
and left to air dry before being baged up. It is a good idea to set up a set of files for each
individual client, this way you are guaranteed not to spread any infection you may have missed.

All metal instruments are to be washed with hot soapy water, soaked for required amount of
time in hospital grade disinfectant, (see manufacturers directions) rinsed well, left to air dry
wiped over with alcohol and stored in a dust free container. Any instruments that come into
contact must be sterilized with an autoclave or disposed of.

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Orangewood sticks should be a single use/disposable item.
ALL files and instruments MUST be cleaned and disinfected after EVERY CLIENT.
Most health departments will now require single use files to be used.

All benches, lamps and containers should be regularly wiped over and kept meticulously clean,
as should your benches and floors.

There is more information on how to care for your brushes, files and implements in the section
titled MAINTENANCE OF YOUR BRUSHES, FILES AND IMPLEMENTS in module 3.

Clothing:

● Not all salons enforce uniforms but there should at least be some sort of dress code.
● If you do not have a mandatory uniform you need to wear salon appropriate clothing.
● Your clothing should be clean and smell fresh, ideally a change of clothes daily.
● Do not wear anything that drape or has things dangling from it, but something that is
comfortable to move in but still looks professional.
● You may want to wear a disposable apron for some services which will help reduce cross
contamination and keep your clothing clean.

Hair:

● Should be clean and secured off the face.

Nails:

● Should be of a workable length.

● If nail extensions are worn, these should be cleaned underneath every time you wash your
hands and they should be of a decent length and shape so as not to piece your gloves.

Footwear:

● No high heels to be worn for health and safety and comfort reasons.
● You should have closed in back and no peep toes.
● Should be clean. It is good practice to keep a pair of shoes in work and travel to and from
work in outdoor shoes.

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Personal Hygiene:

● Deodorant should be worn at all times.

● No heavy perfumes should be worn.
● Smokers must take extra care with their personal hygiene. The smell of cigarette smoke
clings to fingers, clothes and hair. Clients may find this offensive.
● Be aware of fresh smelling breath. If having close contact with a client, avoid garlic and
excessively spicy food the previous night. Face masks also help mask smells and allow
you to work at close contact with your client.
● Keep jewellery to an absolute minimum, especially things like bracelets that jingle, dangly
earrings etc.

Ergonomics

Posture is important, whether you are sitting or standing up to do a treatment. Try to find a working
position that is comfortable for you and reduces the need to lean over to just one side.

Using height adjustable treatment couches and chairs. Choose a height that reduces your need
for bending over the client. Ideally your back should be at a 90-degree angle. Your chair should
be comfortable to avoid pressure point sores or injury.

Try to avoid twisting the neck, keep your head upright and keep your shoulders relaxed.

Never ignore pain, look at ways to alleviate the symptoms. If you cannot take a break during a
treatment, then you can adopt gentle stretching techniques.

Repetitive strain injuries can be caused by using the same movements over and over again. Try
to avoid repetitive flexing of the wrist and instead alternate by bending elbows or shoulders
instead. Equipment should feel comfortable in your hand and have as minimal vibration as
possible.

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OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH AND SAFETY (OHS)

Occupational health and safety procedures – Workplace hazards

Your workplace should be assessed continuously by the employer or designated person, for any
dangerous plant, equipment or substances that may cause injury or harm to a person in the
workplace. Employees in the workplace should also have an awareness of hazards and report
any situation that may possibly be dangerous to themselves or others. Some examples are:

Workstations

The work area needs to allow enough space for the client and operator to move without
restriction and for the operator to access and use equipment safely and without putting any
undue pressure on any body parts. Keep the area uncluttered and neat as congestion can lead
to accidents. Power points should be at bench level to prevent cords creating a tripping hazard.

Chairs & Stools

All work chairs should be purpose built and height adjustable to enable operators to work on
clients at a suitable level, preventing possible neck, arm and shoulder complaints.

Floors

Flooring should be non-slip, easy to clean and even to prevent slipping and injury. It is important
that floors are kept clean and any spillages are attended to immediately to prevent anyone from
slipping over.

Fixtures

Fixtures and fittings forming the salon structure need to be fitted in such a way that they create
easy accessibility, and do not block doorways and emergency exits, and keep all cupboards and
stairways clear of obstruction. They must be soundly structured and maintained in good repair.

Lighting

Lighting in the salon must be sufficient for the operator to work safely. Poor lighting can lead to
eye strain and confusion in product selection.

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Manicure Table

The worktable needs to be at a suitable height so as not to cause strain on any part of the body
to the operator.

Tools of the Trade

Consideration should be given in relation to the possible stress on the body of the operator.
Equipment should be attached securely to the wall with an easy swing arm, or on wheels for
ease of movement. Operators should not be lifting heavy equipment at any time, as this can
cause injury to both the operator and client.

Electrical Equipment

All equipment must be checked and maintained in good repair to avoid risk or injury to both the
operator and client. Keep electrical equipment away from water and only use with dry hands.
Unplug equipment prior to cleaning. All cords should be neatly tucked away or taped down to
avoid becoming a tripping hazard.

Bins

Bins should be well marked for rubbish, recycle, blood and chemicals, emptied regularly and
disposed of in the appropriate manner.

Air Quality

Ensure you have adequate ventilation and clean air for the health of operators and
clients. Provide adequate extraction for the removal of dust and fumes. Tables with extraction
fans for dust and fumes are ideal or external exhaust intalled.

Products

Manufacturers try to make products as safe as possible, but their best efforts can be undone by
a single careless act. It is up to you as a professional in the industry to learn about the
chemicals and ingredients in products and how to handle them safely.

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Working Safely with Chemicals

Providing nail services requires you to use products that if used incorrectly could irritate and
scar the skin. The key to working safely is to understand how the ingredients can adversely
affect the skin and health and what you can do to prevent this.

Professional products are designed to be used safely in salons. You need to read and
remember the precautions outlined in the Material Safety Data Sheets supplied with each
product. You must also follow the manufacturer’s instructions. They want you to use the
products safely and successfully on your clients. If you are successful, they will also be
successful. Good technique in performing the treatments and a thorough understanding of the
products are most important.

Summary List of Use and Storage of Chemicals:

1. Ensure premises are well ventilated.

2. Only use drop-on or brush-on products and try to avoid aerosol products
3. Wear gloves when decanting or mixing products such as chemicals (including cleansers,
primers and removers) because they should not come into contact with the skin of the
client or operator
4. Label all solutions decanted from bulk containers, and date them with the day of
decanting and a use-by date if applicable.
5. Do not eat, drink or smoke in areas where chemicals are stored or used, because food
and drink may absorb emitted vapours that can be flammable. A specific staff room
should be set aside for breaks and the consumption of food.
6. After handling chemical containers, secure their lids and store them in a cool area away
from gas appliances.
7. Secure chemicals to prevent unauthorised access. Especially make sure that any
chemicals are not within reach of children. If they are they should have child proof lids.

8. Remember that cotton wool and similar articles soaked with chemicals will be present in
waste, so fumes will be dispersed into the room if not adequately contained.
9. Remove waste regularly from the immediate client area to a larger, covered bin.
10. Operators should request Material Safety Data Sheets relating to the safe handling,
storage and first aid requirements for chemical products from manufacturers/suppliers of
chemicals.
11. Proprietors/operators should refer to these sheets for advice and keep copies on the
premises at the point of use.

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 12. Employers should make formal arrangements for maintaining and improving safe working
conditions and practices. This includes competency training and risk assessments.
13. You should report any injuries, diseases and dangerous occurrences to the appropriate
person/department. This includes loss of sight, amputation, fracture and electric shock. In
all cases where a personal injury of any type occurs, it should be recorded in an accident
book.
14. Whatever the size of your business, you should always make sure you have a First Aid
kit on site, as well as an eyewash bottle. You should ensure this is fully stocked at all
times. You should have at least one ‘Appointed Person’ on hand to take charge in an
emergency who holds an approved basic first aid qualification.
15. This covers the use of display screens and computer screens. This specifies the
acceptable levels of radiation emissions from the screen, as well as identifying the
correct posture and the number of rest periods.
16. This states the duties for any users of equipment. It identifies the requirements in
selecting and maintaining suitable equipment, as well as the training and safe use of it.
17. This requires employers to identify activities which require special protective clothing,
which must then be made available.
18. These regulations require that cosmetics and toiletries are safe for their intended
purpose and comply with labelling requirements.
19. All premises must have adequate means of dealing with a fire and all members of staff
should know where these are. This can include fire extinguishers and blankets; however,
you should only operate a fire extinguisher if you have been properly trained to do so. All
equipment should be checked and maintained regularly.
Fire Drill notices should be clearly displayed and should inform people of what to do in
case of a fire. All staff should be trained in the location of alarms, exits and meeting
points.Electrical items are potentially hazardous and should be used and maintained
properly. You should always ensure that you are fully trained on a piece of equipment
before operating it.
All electrical equipment should be regularly tested to ensure it is safe to use. If any
equipment is deemed to be faulty or unsafe, you should stop using it immediately and
report the problem. Make sure the equipment is clearly marked as faulty until the
problem has been corrected to avoid it being used by other members of staff.
20. Work Safe Australia regulations cover the essential requirements for controlling
exposure to hazardous substances, and for protecting people who may be affected by
them. You should carry out a Work Safety assessment to identify all chemicals, products
or other substances which could cause harm.
21. A substance is considered to be hazardous if it can cause harm to the body. It poses a
risk if it is inhaled, ingested, in contact with the skin, absorbed through the skin, injected
into the body or introduced to the body through cuts.

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 Always check the ingredients and instructions of all products to see what they contain
and ensure they are stored properly. If the product could cause harm, it should be listed
on your Work Safe assessment, together with what the risk is and who is at risk from it.
Next, decide on the degree of risk and who to minimise that risk. If you can, try to
replace high risk products with lower risk ones. Never leave chemicals identified as
hazardous in areas accessible to the general public. Do not forget, Work Safe
substances include both those used for treatments and cleaning.
22. You will need local council Health Department registration for all beauty services carried
out, and also be registered for skin penetration if you are carrying out any form of
electrolysis, ear or body piercing, tattooing including semi lift/permanent makeup or brow
microblading, skin planning or any other service where skin penetration is involved.
23. The consumer Protection Act is in force to protect the customer from unsafe or defective
services or products. All staff should be trained in using and maintaining products.
Retails items and salon products must be as described and of satisfactory quality. They
should be fit for purpose and safe for use. It is the responsibility of the retailer to correct
a problem where the goods are not as described.
24. The Trade Descriptions Act prohibits the use of false descriptions of goods or services.
Information must always be accurate, false comparisons must not be made and
misleading price comparisons must not be made.
25. You should ensure that clients are not discriminated against on the grounds of disability.
You cannot use this as a reason to refuse to provide a service, provide a service to a
lesser standard or fail to make reasonable adjustments. The premises must be able to
facilitate access for disabled people.
26. The Equality Act gives disabled people important rights of access to everyday services.
Service providers have an obligation to make reasonable adjustments to premises or to
the way they provide a service. Sometimes it just takes minor changes to make a service
accessible. What is considered a reasonable adjustment for a large business such as a
bank, may be different from what is a reasonable adjustment for a small local salon. It is
about what is practical in the service provider’s individual situation and what resources
the business may have. They will not be required to make adjustments that are not
reasonable because they are unaffordable or impractical.

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 Skin Over Exposure –

How to minimize and control over exposure to nail products.

If you follow these simple yet highly effective guidelines for professional product
handling, you will create a very safe working environment for anyone who
encounters these salon professional substances/products. The guidelines will
significantly help minimize the exposure of salon product or overexposure which
can cause unwanted irritations or allergic reactions to both the client and salon
professional nail technician.

Product overexposure and what is it?

When the signs of skin irritation, redness or other skin irritation are caused, it could be
the result of overexposure to certain ingredients which have come into contact with the
skin, known as overexposure. The causes of overexposure are most likely caused by an
amount of time or overuse of the ingredients touching the skin. Salon Professional
products especially the nail products are meant to be used in tiny amounts and created
only to be applied to the nail plate which makes it simpler to avoid skin overexposure. A
person’s healthy nail plate is made up of dense keratin and it is therefore most unlikely
to absorb these ingredients which once again makes it easier to avoid skin
overexposure.

Professional nail technicians should understand and directly follow the guidelines
outlined in this article to avoid the unnecessary exposure of the product overexposure to
the skin to both the client and professional nail technician when performing a nail
service.

Some potential artificial nail enhancement and products such as hardeners, adhesives,
nail treatments, nail polishes, artificial nail primers as well as the range of UV gels,
liquid/powder, polymers and wrap resins can all potentially cause serious irritation to the
client and technician.

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These listed products and artificial nail enhancements are designed in such a way that
they are only to be used directy on the nail plate and should not come into direct contact
with the surrounding skin. The products can potentially cause the live skin to become
irritated. The products are designed so they can be applied safely to the nail plate
during a professional nail service although over time and repeated use can still in some
people cause over exposure and skin irritation.

Wearing suitable salon/protective gloves can protect the skin. Disposable nitrile gloves
are most preferred for a salon professional environment as the latex or vinyl gloves are
extremely permeable to many of the salon professional products or ingredients and
should be avoided and not used in any salon professional service.
Anyone that is allergic or sensitive to Latex gloves should avoid them as they have a
thin powder made from cornstarch and can cause further allergic reactions. The majority
of professional salons choose to wear disposable gloves as a one-time use and need to
be completely discarded at the end of the service.

Common Allergic Skin Reactions

Individuals who have become overexposed to types of ingredients found in these nail
products, can develop red, swollen, dry, itchy, cracked, peeling or even tiny water
blisters on the individuals’ skin. The products that cause these kinds of reactions are
classified as potential “allergens” this is because the ingredients found in them can
cause allergic reactions in some individuals, more likely the one who are sensitive
especially to different fragrances, preservatives and many ingredients incorporated into
the salon professional nail artificial products. A common allergic skin reaction to the
product can have a result when such ingredients (allergens) come into direct contact
with the skin’s own immune system and creates the symptoms on the skin as
mentioned above. On most occasions the allergic reaction is developed by prolonged
exposure and repeated contact with an allergen. The latex glove as we now know can
cause skin allergies. Continuous and repeated use over months and even years can
cause people who have previously been unaffected to develop an annoying and
persistent rash on the wrists and hands. In this case sterilizing can be the most
common causes and the proteins found to be in latex rubber gloves also play out as
allergens.

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The Reason Skin Protection Is So Important
We all know that washing our hands is one of the most important ways to avoid skin
overexposure from happening. With every nail service the hands need to be thoroughly
cleaned and especially when touching products that are not for skin application. The
correct and most effective way are to scrub the hands continuously for 20 seconds with
a gentle bristle scrub brush used in conjunctions with a mild liquid soap, rinse hands
thoroughly under warm running water, then dry hands completely. Hands that are often
wet, and have had harsh soaps used on them or the use of hot water can cause
irritation also. Correct hand washing is a great way to prevent prolonged skin
overexposure. Debris such as sticky, oily substances or filings which stay on the skin for
prolong periods can increase the risk for developing allergies or skin irritations.
As soon as hands, arms and the wrists become contaminated with dust or residue like
substances, they should be thoroughly cleaned and the area completely dried.
Substances that splash and spill need to be quickly removed and all clothing should be
changed to avoid the prolonged contact with the skin. Using a good lotion will help
protect and restore lost oils from the area that has been overexposed to too much hand
washing especially with drying cleansers are used or the washing of hands or when
hands are being washed many times a day.

55
Some Important Tips to Remember
- Thoroughly wash hands before and after each nail tech service, before and after
eating and especially after handling products which may cause skin exposure to
you or the client.
- Follow MSDS protocols regarding wearing disposable nitrile gloves or other
gloves that are recommended.
- If there is damage to the gloves, throw away and replace straight away.
- Wear appropriate clothing to help prevent overexposure whilst using Salon
professional products. Such as, long sleeve top, smock, knee length pants/skirt.
- Keep all containers containing salon professional substances closed tightly and
in a safe location to avoid spillage or leaks which can cause over exposure if it
comes into direct contact with the skin.
- Wear recommended MSDS safety equipment (gloves, protective eye wear) when
transferring different products/substances.
- A dropper or funnel is to be used to prevent spillage or accidental skin contact
whilst moving different products to and from different containers.
- Skin contact with disinfectants should always be avoided and should never be
added to the water with client’s hands or feet.
- If there are noticeable signs of sensitivity or allergic reactions to a particular
product on the skin, it must be immediately discontinued and if symptoms persist
contact your local GP/Doctor.
- Manufacturer’s product instructions should be followed strictly, and you also stay
up to date by reading and heeding warnings and precautions by the
manufacturer.
- Thoroughly read and understand the MSDS for every product you use in your
salon professional nail tech service.

56
HAZARDS OF NAIL GLUE

One of the products that can cause the most problems is the nail glue or any glue based
product such as the resins in the dip system.

Being a glue, if you were to get this on your skin it is likely to burn, and it is quite easy to
glue your fingers together or to glue your self to your client if you are not extremely
careful.

If you do get glue on your fingers, do not put them together, it will dry quite quickly and
will normally flick off.

Never put your finger over the top of a tip that you are attaching to a client. If excess
glue has come out from the well you will be stuck to them and it is very difficult to get
separation.

If this does happen, rinse well with cool water, then use a cotton bud soaked with
acetone, rub gently to dissolve the glue and separate the fingers. If you feel burning you
will need to stop. It will take quite some time to get separation. If the skin is broken you
cannot use acetone.

Nail glues and resins, and indeed most of your nail product can cause a chemical
reaction with certain materials in your clothing.

You also need to be very careful what the glue comes into contact with on your work
bench. Anything cotton, cotton wool, swabs, many materials and yarns will all react with
the glue causing a rapid exothermic reaction which will both burn and let of fumes that
will irritate the eyes.

If you spill glue on your clothes you need to get them off as soon as you can, before it
bonds to the skin and causes burns. If you wear cotton gloves while doing nails, you
need to remove them at any point in the service where you are using glue or glue based
products. If the glue spills onto the gloves, it will cause a reaction and burn through to
your fingers.

57
You also need to be careful of your surfaces, if you tip the glue over, chances are the
glue bottle and the spilled glue will be stuck to the surface and won’t be able to be
removed without damage.

Keep your products well away from the edges of your work area to avoid spillage. I
suggest you get a rubber glue holder for your glue, this will avoid any accidental spillage
or tipping over.

TREATMENT
If you spill glue on your clothes or skin, remove clothing immediately, rinse area well
with cool water.

If you spill glue on your skin and get your fingers stuck together, just let it set, don’t pull
the fingers apart or you will rip the skin. Once set run it under cold water which will
make it brittle and usually they will just pull apart, if they don’t pull apart easily just soak
in a little bit of acetone which should release them.

Seek medical advice or if skin is still burning or has signs of deep burning go
immediately to a hospital emergency department, it will need to be treated to avoid
further scarring and infection.

58
CLIENT RECORD KEEPING

One of the most important parts of any beauty service is the client consultation and this should
always be done for any new client before any service is commenced.

Keeping accurate client records is extremely important for several reasons. Your local Health
Department will require you to keep records on every client who is treated in your salon, they
will need their name, address, phone number and date of birth and exactly what service you
have provided. These records are crucial in the unlikely event that there may be an outbreak of
some kind.

You will need to keep a record of exactly what you have done on each visit so that if there are
any problems or reactions, you know exactly what products you used the last time and can start
an elimination process to see what may have gone wrong.

Your client base is your best form of repeat business. Having as much information on them as
possible allows you to effectively market to people who are already coming through your door.
As well as the name, address, phone number and date of birth, emails are a great way to
market to your clients.

Your client record card is also an excellent place to jot down any personal information on your
client that you would like to remember for the next visit, i.e. special birthday, illness in the family,
holiday, etc. You can check the card before the next visit and bring it up in conversation. Your
client will be extremely impressed at what you remember about them and it adds a very
personal touch to your service.

Do not underestimate the importance of client consultation and record keeping.

Although it is very unusual for anything so bad to happen that it may end up in legal
proceedings, in the unlikely event that something should go wrong, you will need every little bit
of information and evidence you can get your hands on or your insurance may not cover you.

I cannot stress how important good records are for the safety of both you and your clients,
especially in the case of an allergic reaction to something, you need to be able to advise the
doctor what you have used and what ingredients are in those particular products. It might not
only save you a hefty legal bill, but potentially save someone’s life.

I hope this has scared you enough to KEEP EXTENSIVE, ACCURATE RECORDS.

59
CLIENT CONSULTATION FORM

Date: ______________________________________________________________________

Name: _____________________________________________________________________

Address: ____________________________________________________________________

Phone: (w) ___________________________ (h) __________________________

(mobile) ___________________________(Email)____________________________________

Date of Birth: _________________________________________________________________

Medical Details:

Health Condition: (such as diabetes, epilepsy, blood pressure, pacemaker, haemophilia etc)
____________________________________________________________________________

Current Medication:
____________________________________________________________________________

Have you recently or currently been suffering from any cold, flu or other virus symptoms.
____________________________________________________________________________

Allergies or Allergic reactions:

____________________________________________________________________________

Recent surgery, recent injections for varicose veins?

____________________________________________________________________________

Do you have arthritis or recent fractures?

____________________________________________________________________________

Have you had any recent skin or nail infections such as fungal, bacterial or parasitic?
____________________________________________________________________________

Sign ________________________________ Date ________________________________

60
MEDICAL CONSULTATION FORM FACIAL

Please tick if you have any of the following:

꙱ Contagious Disease such as cold, cold sore, flu, Covid, HIV, Hepatitis A or B, herpes.

꙱ Bacterial Infection such as conjunctivitis, stye, boil, impetigo (school sores)

꙱ Fungal Infection such as blepharitis, ringworm, Candida (yeast infection)

꙱ Parasitic Infection such as head lice or scabies

꙱ Any unusual or undiagnosed lumps or swelling

꙱ Recent broken bones or fractures on your hands or feet

꙱ Haemophilia

꙱ Unstable Blood Pressure

꙱ Heart Condition

꙱ Recent neck or head injury

꙱ Fever

꙱ Recent surgery or scarring on your feet or hands

꙱ Open cuts or sores on your feet or hands

꙱ Diabetes

꙱ Skin sensitizing medication or topical treatment

61
Below is an example of a client record card. These cards are readily available in blank form at
any newsagency or office supply shop. It is quite simple to pre-print them on any home
computer. Don't worry if you do not have the facilities to pre-print them, you can just write in the
relevant information.

You can also keep your records on a computer program. There are many good salon record
keeping programs around. It is very important that you keep accurate client records. You need
to collect the name, address, phone number and date of birth of each client. Email addresses
are also handy and a good way to send out information on specials without any expense.
In the lined area you need to fill in the date and type of service you have performed. It is also a
good idea to record any problems or existing conditions in this area and have the client sign the
card so that it does not come back on you. It is a good way to track the frequency of each
client's visit and identify those who are no longer coming for any reason.

Your local council health department will also require you to keep an accurate record in case of
any outbreak, and will want to see the record cards when they come to inspect your salon.

Name: Mary Jones Ph: 9123 4567

Address: 1 Smith Street, Melbourne 3000 DOB: 7-8-1999
Email: mary j @hotmail.com
24-04-2020 Deluxe Manicure with scrub and paraffin to help with arthritis and dry
skin
Damaged nail ring finger of left hand finished with clear polish and top
coat

62
 MODULE THREE

PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT COMMON TO ALL SYSTEMS

Watch Video in module 3

Nail Table

You can get by with a small desk or table to start with

or even working across the corner of a dining table,
but eventually for the comfort of yourself and your
clients you will need a professional manicure table to
work on with an extraction fan and/or adequate
ventilation

Cotton Wool

For removing nail polish and cleansing the nail. Also

used for soaking off gel polish/shellac and nail
enhancements.

Lint Free Wipes

For removing dust from the nail and applying

dehydrator or gel wipe. Also used to wipe excess
product from your brush.

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Nail Polish Remover – Non Acetone

For removing normal nail polish. A non-acetone

based nail polish remover will remove normal nail
enamel (not gel polish) without damaging the nail
enhancement.

Will not remove gel polish/shellac, you will need pure

acetone for this.

Acetone

Pure acetone is used to help remove gel polish and

also to soak off nail enhancements.

Anti bacterial Hand Wash

To wash and disinfect hands before procedure.

Anti-Bacterial Solution

To disinfect hands before procedure. Can also be

used to dehydrate the nails in prep for gel
polish/shellac as it is alcohol based.

64
Nail Dehydrator

An alcohol based product used to dehydrate the nail

plate for better bonding of tips and nail enhancement
products.chamois

Hospital Grade Disinfectant

This is to disinfect your metal instruments after they

have been thoroughly washes with warm soapy water
and rinsed well. You can also use this on your files
and buffers, but single use would be better.

Nail Files

A selection of nail files 100, 180 and 240, block

buffer and chamois

Cuticle Softener/Remover/Conditioner

This can be called cuticle remover, softener or

conditioner, usually all the same sort of product.
Helps to soften and remove excess cuticle from and
around the nail plate if clients cuticles are very
overgrown.

65
Cuticle Oil

Used to condition cuticles and skin around the nail

plate after enhancement service.

Cuticle Clippers

To remove loose hanging skin around the cuticle

area.

Orangewood stick or metal cuticle pusher

Used to push back and prepare cuticles, clean under

the free edges and can also be used to remove
excess polish from around cuticle area

Arm and hand rest

Placed under the towel for the client to rest her arm
on

66
Selection of Nail tips

You will need a selection of nail tips, natural look,

French white and clear. You can also use coloured,
glitter or patterned tips in the course.

Tip Cutters

Professional tip cutters are best to use to cut your

tips. If you use scissors or nail clippers you ay split
or fracture the tips.

Nail Glue or Resin

Tip glue or resin to bond the tips to the natural nails.

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU READ AND

UNDERSTAND THE INFORMATION ON THE
HAZARDS OF NAIL GLUE IN MODULE 2

Hand Towels

Placed over the arm cushion for the nail service.

Must be appropriately laundered after each client.

67
Nail Polish

You have a choice of normal nail enamel or gel

polish/shellac or both.
You will need the appropriate base and top coats
and can get by with a small range of colours to start
with.

Vaseline & Cotton Buds

Vaseline or balm is used to coat the skin around

nails to protect it during removal process

Cotton Buds

Cotton Buds are used to apply the Vaseline to the

skin around the nails in a removal process

Soak of pads or cotton wool and foil

Foil soak off pads or normal cotton wool and foil are
used to wrap the nails during a removal process

68
ROOM SET UP

Watch video in module 3

You truly need only the smallest of areas to set up for these services if you plan well and have a
place for everything.

Things that will be required by your local council health department will be:

The construction of the premises should meet with local council requirements. If working in a
room that is part of your house, this should be no issue, but if it is a bungalow or garage that
you are converting they will need to check it is a solid structure and they will also check for
things like easy and safe access to the area, so no uneven paths or hazards.
The finish on all surfaces within your work area must be made of materials that are easily
cleaned.

The floor should be non slip, tiles, vinyl, sealed wood or marble – NO CARPET, and should be
even, non slip and easy to clean. The area between the floor and wall should be sealed.

Adequate lighting and good ventilation. If you are not using extraction fans, you will need to be
able to open a window or door for fresh air.

A hand basin with hot and cold running water. This is for you and your client to wash your hands
and they prefer it is in the work area, however some councils will allow it outside the work area,
as long as it is in close proximity.

A separate sink that has hot and cold running water for cleaning of equipment. This does not
have to be in your work area but they will want to inspect it. You will need clearly marked areas
for clean and dirty equipment.

Liquid soap and hand sanitiser, preferably in a non touch, automatic container which you can
get from sites like eBay for about $20.

Paper towel or automatic hand dryer for drying hands.

Non touch bin, can be foot peddle or automatic.

Storage cupboard for your products where they cannot be reached by children.

69
The premises must be kept in a clean and hygienic condition at all times.

Treatment areas such as benches must be cleaned between each client.

Towels should be changed for each client and properly laundered and disinfected.

While the area needs to be clean and sterile you can also make it professional and inviting by
adding things like plants, soft prints on the walls, soft easy listening music, candles and any
other personal touches you like as long as everything can be cleaned and it is not cluttered and
causing a walkway hazard.

Some ideas for nail area:

70
Some ideas for areas if you are also doing manicure and pedicure:

71
MAINTENANCE OF YOUR BRUSHES, FILES AND IMPLEMENTS

Watch video in module 3

FILES
Files should be single use. You can give them to your clients to take home and use. OR you can
set up a container for each client, but the files still need to be sanitised between use. Once you
finish the service brush over with warm soapy water, spray with hospital grade disinfectant,
rinse well and leave to air dry before storing in a dust free container marked with the clients
name. Files are not to be used on multiple clients.

METAL INSTRUMENTS – Cuticle clippers, tip cutters, metal cuticle pusher

If metal instruments come into contact with blood and you do not have access to an autoclave
they are to be thrown out.
Otherwise at the end of the service they are to be washed with warm soapy water, soaked for
the appropriate time in a hospital grade disinfectant – please refer to manufacturers directions –
rinsed well and left to air dry before being stored in a dust free container.

SABLE BRUSH (USED FOR ACRYLIC)

Sable brushes damage very easily and no harsh chemical can be used on them. Your new
sable brush will have a dressing in the hairs which will appear like a very thin white coating. This
needs to be thoroughly removed before you use your brush. To do this tip a small amount of
clean acrylic liquid into a dappen dish. Gently dip the hairs of the brush into the nail liquid for
around 10-15 seconds to dislodge the dressing. Remove the brush and wipe on a lint free nail
wipe. Repeat until all the dressing is removed.

You also need to get any air out of your brush. Gently push down into the liquid, you will see
bubbles come out of the brush, then remove and wipe back into shape on a lint free wipe.

At the end of every service, providing you do not have a buildup of product in your brush, dip it a
few times into a small amount of clean clean acrylic liquid in a clean dappen dish and use a lint
free wipe to wipe it. Dip into liquid again roll it into place on a lint free wipe, stand it up to dry and
store in a cupboard where it will not collect dust.

Never wash your brush in soap and water and never soak it in acetone. You may occasionally
want to use a brush cleaner, but the acrylic liquid will do just as good or even a better job at
keeping your sable brush in order. If you do use a brush cleaner make sure it is suitable for
sable and does not contain acetone.

72
If your brush has a buildup of product in it at the end of the service, place a small amount of
acrylic liquid in a clean dappen dish and stir it around with your brush to soften it. Bring the
brush out and run the sharp end of an orangewood stick through gently to start removing the
loose product, you may need to repeat this a few times to remove it all. If it is not removing, you
may need to leave your brush to soak in the monomer for a while and try again. Then follow
normal cleaning procedures.

You may also need to do this during a set when you first start as you will get build up of dry
powder in the brush until you get the hang of creating and picking up your beads.

Your brush will need to be conditioned occasionally. To do this just rub some cuticle oil through
the bristles and leave for about one minute. Then use either a baby wipe, or a lint free wipe to
clean the oil out and then dip into acrylic liquid, roll into shape and store as normal.

Your acrylic liquid is all you need to keep your brush clean and disinfected. The strong
chemicals in the liquid will prevent any bacteria build up.

GEL BRUSH
At the end of the service use a lint free wipe to squeeze out any excess product in the brush.
Place a small amount of gel cleanser into a clean dappen dish and dip your brush in and out
until all trace of gel is removed, then dry with a lint free wipe and store.

If there is a lot of build up in your brush dip in gel wipe and run the sharp end of an orangewood
stick through to remove it.

Wipe excess product out with a lint free wipe and store upright in a cupboard so it doesn’t
collect dust.

Your gel wipe is all you need to keep your brush clean and disinfected as it is an alcohol based
product that will prevent any bacteria build up.

DIP LIQUID BRUSHES

Your dip system should come with a brush saver/restorer. At the end of every service, or during
the service if you feel you are getting build up in your brushes, dip them into the brush
saver/restorer bottle for a few seconds and wipe with a clean lint free wipe before putting them
back into the resin/gel bottles.

73
HOW TO MAKE A PRACTICE HAND WITH A RUBBER GLOVE

One of the best ways to practice working with your products before you start your models it on a
practice hand.

There are dozens of different types of rubber and plastic practice hands on the market that you
can purchase, but you can easily make one up with a rubber glove, flour and a rubber band. It
actually feels quite realistic.

Just take a normal household rubber glove, and some cooking flour, it doesn’t matter if it is plain
or self raising, you are not cooking with it.

This is easier if you have someone to help you, but you can do it on your own. Take a large
spoon, open the neck of the glove and spoon the flour into the glove, keep shaking it so the flour
is going all the way to the tips of the finger and you may need to occasionally push it down so it
is quite firm.

Once the flour is up to just past where the wrist would be and well packed into the glove, wrap a
rubber band around the top to hold it in.

DONE your own practice hand for a couple of dollars.

Once it is set up you can attach tips to make the finger nails, use the non well end of the tips so
they bond better to the glove, then you can just use them as they are and apply product or you
can cut them back to replicate and natural nail and add tips.

So you can practice tip application and blending, shaping, nail enhancement application and
polish application before you start on your models.

Watch video in module 3

74
 MODULE FOUR

BEFORE YOU START YOUR PRACTICAL ASSESSMENTS

Watch video in module 4

Please read this and watch the video before you start your practical assessments. I am
sure most of you are a little apprehensive and nervous about finally starting to work on your
models. Your models know you are learning so I am sure they will be patient and hopefully kind
with their feedback on your work.

You are going to make mistakes, nothing will be perfect at the start and we don’t expect it to be,
and things will go wrong. It is all part of the learning process. If and when you do make a
mistake don’t dwell on it, fix the problem, come to us for help and move on. It is very rare that
you will make the same mistake twice.

Please make sure you perfect each step before you move on to the next. This will give you a
much better end result and stop you from picking up bad habits by rushing through.

TAKE YOUR TIME. Do not try and do your first few sets in record time. In fact I would like you
to take at least 3 hours or more to do your first couple of sets, and in fact unless you have any
previous nail experience that is how long it will take, so please advise your models to allow
plenty of time.

If you take the time to perfect the nails early on in the piece, your work will be perfect. The time
will take care of itself with practice. This is part of the reason we ask you to keep Log Sheets,
you need to record your time and you will see it improving with each set.

The photographic evidence is crucial both for us to give comprehensive feedback on your work
and so we know where issues may be arising. It also gives you the chance to go back and
compare the work you are submitting later in the course against the first few sets you do. It is
also great for your resume and also for advertising for new clients.

Before you start on your models it is a good idea to do some work on a practice hand. If you
don’t have one we show you how to make one from a rubber glove in the videos. It will give you
a good feel for the file and product and make is easier when you do start your models. Also
practice on yourself. This will show you just how much pressure you can put on your file and
how to position it so you don’t cut the skin.

75
Find as many models as you can. You can use the same models multiple times, but the more
you have the quicker you will get through your course.

MOST OF ALL, DON’T BE TOO HARD ON YOURSELF. YOU ARE LEARNING.

NAIL SHAPES AND SHAPING

OVAL AND STRAIGHT SIDED OVAL

Straight sided oval

Allow the nail to grow out so you can keep the side straight as this will keep the nail
stronger. Towards the top, start rounding the tip until a nice oval shape is formed.

You can cut the rounded corners out first with scissors to give you less filing.

With a straight sided oval, the nail can be reshaped into a more oval shape if the
side is damaged.

Oval

Leave a small amount of the side straight and then start shaping nail into an oval
(egg) shape.

The less straight sidewall on the nail the weaker the nail will be. There is little room
for re-shaping if the side of the nail is damaged.

This is an ideal shape for nails that are thick or wide as it give them a more delicate,

76
refined appearance.

SQUARE

Allow the nail to grow out and keep the sides completely straight. Once you have cut the tip
back to length, file straight across at the top of the free edge.

With the straight sides this is the strongest nail of all, but completely square look is
more appropriate for longer nails. The short square nails can make the hands look a
bit blunt and pudgy.

POINTED

Start to shape the nails at the start of the free edge. Check your middle point, you can cut the
sides to shape to give you less filing, then file from side to side constantly checking they are
even with the point in the middle.

77
ROUND

The round nail is idea for shorter nails as it will give the fingers an elongated look.

Depending on the length of the nails, keep the sides straight for about 1 to 1.5mm
and then begin to file the sides until a round tip is achieved, or you can cut the rounded corners
out first with scissors to give you less filing.. This is a very strong nail ideal for both long and
short nails.

SQUOVAL

Fast becoming the most the more popular choice as it is not as severe as the square
shape but flatter than oval or round.

Keep the sides straight all the way to the top, file the top flat as with the square, then
slightly round the corners.

78
This is a strong nail and suitable for both long and short nails.

STILETTO

This is another shape that is becoming very popular

Check your middle point, you can cut the sides to shape to give you less filing, then file from
side to side constantly checking they are even with the point in the middle. For this shape you
can have very straight sides, or you can slightly round them for a softer look

There are a variety of other shaped you can also use. Some are slight variations on
the above nail shapes, but some of these would be for a feature nail only and not
practical for everyday wear.

Watch the video on nail shaping in module 4. You will need either a practice hand or
make up one of the practice hands we show you in the videos in Module 3.

79
NATURAL NAIL PREPARATION

This section covers natural nail prep for a new set of nails or an overlay on natural nails.

An overlay is simply applying the enhancement product directly over the natural nail without
adding extensions tips or using forms. The preparation of the nail plate and cuticles is exactly
the same, you just don’t extend the nails

For information and video on how to prep the enhancements for maintenance, including
damaged or lifting product for refills please see the videos and information in module 8.

Nail preparation is crucial to the end result of your service and how long the nails will last.

You need to start by both client and technician washing hands. Both client and nail tech need to
disinfect the hands with alcohol based hand sanitizer.

Remove all old product or polish.

If your client has come in with polish on, either normal or gel polish it needs to be removed
before you begin. If you are doing a new set of nails any old nail enhancement product needs to
also be completely removed from the nail plate before you begin.

Treat cuticles.

Normally you would use a metal cuticle pusher to prep the cuticles and nails, this will eliminate
any unnecessary moisture from being in the nail when applying the nail enhancements.

However, If the cuticles are very badly overgrown, normally this will happen with very badly
bitten nails, I would suggest you get them in a few days before the service and give them a
manicure and use some good quality cuticle conditioner to push the cuticle back and remove
any loose skin with cuticle clippers if necessary.

If you are going to do this at the time of the service you need to make sure you remove any
trace of cuticle conditioner or oil from the nail plate and surrounding skin and you then wipe
over the nail plate with nail dehydrator before you etch.

80
Etch the Nail Plate

Nothing will stick to a nail plate that is too shiny or has any grime, dirt, polish or old product on it.

You need a very clean surface to work on.

Using either a 180 or 240 grit file or block buffer gently etch the whole nail plate, taking
exceptional notice of the areas down the sides and around the skin line as that is where lifting
will start if not prepared properly. Pull the skin back at the sides of the nail so you can get the
file right down to the very edge of the nail plate.

Run the file or buffer up and down the nail in the direction of the grain. DO NOT over buff, you
just want the natural nail to be chalky white. If it starts to go pink or red, you have gone too far
and need to stop immediately
.
At this point you will also need to shape the natural nail.

If you are using tips, make sure you shape the edge of the natural nail so it will fit snuggly into
the well of the tip, this will make for better bonding of the tip and also look much better
underneath as they grow out.

Remove Dust and Dehydrate

Using a lint free wipe and nail dehydrator or an alcohol-based product wipe over each nail
thoroughly to remove dust and dehydrate the nail plate.

Make sure you pull the skin back and get right into the nail grooves at the side of the nails.

Use a new wipe for each nail otherwise you are just moving dust from one nail to the next.

Once the nail plate turns white, this means the product has evaporated and the nail plate is now
ready for the next step.

Watch videos in module 4

Natural Nail Prep on Good Cuticles
Natural Nail Prep on Overgrown Cuticles

81
APPLYING EXTENSION TIPS

Natural, French White and clear

You can extend the nails either with tips or forms. If your client already has nails at the length
she requires, then you do not need to extend them, just do the prep and application as normal
but without tips or forms. This is logged as an overlay and can be counted in the extras you
need to make up the 35 assessments that need to be submitted.

Do nail prep as per the previous page and wait until nail dehydrator has completely evaporated
and the nail plate looks white.

Size your tip. Your tip must cover the exact width of the natural nail. It must not be narrower
than the natural nail plate and it must not extend past the natural nail groove at the side of the
nail.

If your client has very short or bitten nail beds, you will either need to use a short well tip, or if
you are using the large well tips you will need to use your tip cutters to cut the well of the tip
back a little so you can still butt the well up to the edge of the natural nail, but it is not covering
more than 2/3rds of the nail plate.

If you cannot get an exact match of the tip to the natural nail, choose the next size UP and
slightly file the sides in to match the natural nail width. It is important that the tip matches the
width of the natural nail exactly.

Apply plenty of glue to the well of the tip.

Apply tip to the nail by sliding down until the edge of the well clicks onto the free edge of the
natural nail. Lay the tip down onto the nail plate being careful not to lift it at the free edge and
cause separation and a gap between the nail plate and the tip. Hold firmly with downward
pressure until bonded.

Wipe away excess glue.

Cut to length and shape.

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APPLYING EXTENSION TIPS (Cont’d)

Natural Tips:
If you are using natural look tips, they need to be blended so you can’t see where they start on
the nail.

Blend by slowly moving the file back and forth and across the edge of the tip, being careful NOT
to file on the natural nail.

Do not overwork the sides as this will affect the strength of the tip, but the middle should be
invisible. When you have finished if you spray some anti bac spray onto it, you will be able to
see if it needs more blending.

Do not file in one spot or you will create friction and burn. You need to continually move the file
and the client’s finger to avoid this.

French White, or Coloured Tips:

If using french white tips you just need to remove the shine. To do this just buff very lightly over
the top of the tip with your block buffer. Do not try and blend, you will lose the crisp smile line
created by the edge of the tip.

Clear Tips:
Clear tips do not need to be blended as they are clear, but you do need to remove the shine
with your block buffer and it is also a good idea to flatten the step of the well so you don’t end up
with a lump when you apply your coating.

Glitter or Patterned Tips:

You can’t remove the shine on these or you will lose the glitter or the pattern. Normally the
glitter or the pattern will help the coating bond.

For All Tips, once blended or shine removed:

Wipe over the nail and tip with nail dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and
dehydrate the nail. Use a new wipe for each nail to you are not spreading the dust from one nail
to the next.

Your nail is now ready for your choice of nail enhancement coating.

Watch videos in module 4 – Applying Extension Tips – Natural, French and Clear

83
 Refill versus Rebalance

Watch video in module 4

A refill, also known as a fill, infill, or back fill, is where you have created either a natural look nail
or a solid colour.

The videos will show you when doing a refill how to remove and clean up any lifted product,
shorten and shape the nail, cut back about 2/3rds of the old product and move the peak of the
nail back over the stress area to keep the strength where it is needed. As the nail grows out of
course the peak you have built in the original set will be towards the tip of the nail, so as you
shorten the nails you need to taper the tip down and leave the bulk over the stress area. This
will make more sense when you watch the videos.

A rebalance is where you have done a permanent french nail. This can be done with tips or
product. It can be white, coloured, glitter or patterned. If using white, coloured or glitter you will
need a matching product to do the rebalance. If using a patterned tip you will probably need to
go over it with a white or coloured product as you usually can’t reproduce the pattern on the tip.

When french nails are done, they will usually have a normal refill at the first maintenance
service but this depends on how quickly they grow. If they grow quickly and the nails have
grown out well and the first maintenance isn’t for about 3 weeks or more you will most likely
need to go straight to a rebalance.

So if your french client comes back after two weeks and the nails have not grown so much that
the grey line of the natural free edge is showing you can do a straight refill.

If your french client comes back and there is a definite grey line of the natural free edge showing
you need to move the free edge you have created when doing the original set, back to cover
this grey line. The rebalance is done EXACTLY the same way whether the original french nail
was created with a tip or product. This will make more sense once you watch the videos.

Please see the photos on the next page, showing french done with white as a new set and then
3½ weeks later where you can see an obvious line from the natural free edge where the white
has grown out. Once you have done the rebalance they should look exactly the same as when
you did the original set.

84
This is a fresh set of french white nails, you can see how there only 2 colours, the white and the
pink of the nail bed showing through.

This is the same set of nails 3½ weeks later, you can clearly see the grey line of the natural free
edge showing where they have grown out. These need a REBALANCE to move the white smile
line back towards the cuticle to cover the grey of the natural free edge.

85
 STEPS FOR SERVICE

Watch video in module 4

For every service you do you will follow basically the same steps. This is for two reasons. The
first is to give the product you are using a chance to set before you do the final perfecting step
and secondly to save time.

You need to do as much of one step as you can on each hand before moving to the next.

I like the single hand option but you can do exactly the same doing both hands at the same
time.

So whether you are doing all of the following on one hand and then moving to the next or all on
both hands is entirely up to you.

Once client and technician have washed and sanitized their hands you are ready to being.

Do cuticle work on all fingers of the first hand

Prep the nail plate, wipe over with lint free wipe and dehydrator
Size and attach the tips
Cut tips back to size, shape and blend if necessary or else remove the shine
Wipe over with lint free wipe and dehydrator
Apply coating and allow to dry

REPEAT ON SECOND HAND

Go back to the first hand and do the final perfecting clean up step and apply polish

REPEAT ON SECOND HAND

‘For maintenance:
Shorten and shape the nail enhancement, remove 2/3rd of product and clean up around
regrowth line to remove any lifting product. If doing a rebalance remove ¾ of the product at the
tip end.
From there just follow instructions for new set.

86
 MODULE FIVE

DIP SYSTEM

Before beginning any work with your nail system products please make sure you have read,
understood and follow the guidelines for Skin Overexposure and Hazards of Nail Glue which
you will find in Module 2 of this manual.

The Dip system was first introduced to the market place in the early to mid-1990s as an
alternative to the already existing acrylic, gel and fiberglass systems. It did not really take off
until a company called SNS started to advertise it heavily advertising it in the early 2000s and it
has since become one of the most asked for nail services salon wide.

With improving product development there are now literally hundreds of brands of dip system,
although most people continue to refer to it as SNS, they are all exactly the same if you get a
professional quality product.

The benefits of this system are that it is extremely easy to learn.

There is no strong or lasting smell like there is with acrylic, it feels light and it bonds and lasts
very well on the nails. It is strong, but also much easier to remove than most other nail
enhancements.

Many technicians will just soak off and re apply at each service, however it is not good for the
natural nail to be constantly soaking in acetone and buffed, so it is much healthier for the natural
nail if you offer a refill/rebalance service and just soak off and replace from time to time.

There is far less likelyhood of allergic reaction to this system than there is to acrylic both for the
client and the technician, however proper application and removal procedures need to be
following and proper product protocols followed to avoid over exposure and damage to the skin
or possible irritation or allergic reaction.

This is a great entry point to Nail Technology and also a great alternative to offer clients.

87
Products for Dip Systems
Watch video in module 5

You will need all of the product in the products and equipment section common to all nail
systems in module 3.

Products specific to the quick dip system are:

Fine grade building powder:

This can be clear, blush, white, coloured or glitter
This powder is exactly the same as you will be using with the acrylic system, so it can be called
either building powder or acrylic powder. You DO NOT need to get both, as long as you get a
fine grade professional quality powder it will work perfectly with both systems.

DIP TRAY
This is used to create a permanent french free edge

88
Resin (Base and Top)
There are two types of dip systems on the market. All products are the same except the resins.
The original dip system uses a brush on fibreglass resin which is used as both the base/building
resin and also the top coat resin and works with a spray on activator.

The new version (SNS style) uses a set of liquids which are all brush on. Normally numbered 1
to 4, you will have a base, activator, top and brush cleaner/restorer. These can be referred to
as base coat, gel base, base resin, pro base and many other names but they are all the same
thing.

We teach you how to do the SNS style dip system in the videos, but if you want to do the other
one it is exactly the same except the activator is spray on and I can give you guidance on this if
you want to try it.

Please note: these products are glue based but are NOT nail glue, and you cannot use normal
nail glue to create dip nails. It is too thin and brittle, you will not be able to build a thick enough
nail and they will crack and damage your clients’ nails.

Base coat used with powder will creat the Top coat is used to give the finished nail
shape of the enhancement enhancement a glossy shine

89
Activator:
The resin will not cure properly without an activator. This can be spray on or brush on
depending which system you are using. It can also be known by other names, such as
Activating Dryer and Setting Liquid, but most systems that I know of call it Activator.

Brush Saver:
The brush saver is used either during or at the end of the service to remove any built up product
on the brush of the base and top resins to avoid contamination of the products. This is also
called multiple names depending on the system you are using and can be known as brush
saver or brush rejuvenator. Please note this is not a brush cleaner that can be used on your
sable brushes used for acrylic nails, it is only to keep your dip system brushes clean.

90
 Natural Look Nail Dip System

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.

Very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file to remove shine and wipe with nail
with dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and dehydrate nail plate
Size and attach extension tips, natural look

Cut extension tips to required length

Shape and blend being careful to keep the file OFF the natural nail plate.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of base resin/gel, covering to about 3/4 of the nail but
being careful not to touch skin.

Slowly dip/scoop nail in building powder with an upward scooping motion. Do not dip
finger too quickly or you will push the base resin/gel up the nail making a lump at the
cuticle.

Once powder has dissolved, brush another coat of building base resin/gel over the
whole nail right up to but not touching the cuticle, avoiding the skin.

It is very important that you check your brush for excess powder before putting it
back into base resin/gel bottle. If you have excess powder on the brush, wipe your
brush on a lint free wipe to remove it before replacing it back into your base
resin/gel or your brush will go hard. If it has a lot of powder or you feel it getting
hard, put it straight into your brush saver/rejuvenator for required time, wipe with lint
free wipe and put back into base coat bottle.

91
Carefully dip/scoop the finger into the building powder for a second time, again with
a slow upward scooping motion.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

The thinner you apply your resin the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make sure it is dry. It will
make a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it
click when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

92
 Refill/Maintenance of Natural Look Dip System

Your artificial nails will need to be re-filled somewhere between 2 - 4 weeks, sometimes
even longer. Some people can get 5 to 6 weeks between re-fills but this is rare and
usually involves them doing some maintenance on them in between.

The average time lapse is around three weeks however, depending on what some
people do for a living they may find that they need to have re-fills every two weeks to
keep their nails looking nice and others can easily get away with four weeks.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail.

Buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the nail, concentrating on the enhancement
product only and around the sides, making sure there is no flaking or lifting product
around the regrowth line. Thin free edge down using 100 grit file.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of building base resin/gel covering the whole nail
but beingcareful not to touch the skin.

Slowly dip/scoop nail in building powder with an upward scooping motion. Do not dip
the finger too quickly or you will push the base resin/gel up the nail making a lump.

93
At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

The thinner you apply your base resin/gel the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make sure it is dry. It will
make a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it
click when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

94
Permanent French using White/Coloured Tip

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.

Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol on lint free wipes to remove dust and dehydrate the
nail plate.

Size and attach French extension tips. You can use white, coloured,

glitter or patterned tips for this.

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

Use block buffer lightly to remove shine if using white or coloured tips, if using glitter or
patterned just leave them. DO NOT BLEND, you want to keep the smile line intact.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of base resin/gel on the nail plate area (between the
edge of the tip and the cuticle, but leaving approx.. 1mm from the cuticle.

Slowly dip nail in building powder with an upward scooping motion. Do not dip finger
too quickly or you will push the resin up the nail making a lump.

Once powder has dissolved, brush another coat of base resin/gel over the whole
nail, up to but not touching the cuticle, again avoiding the skin.

Carefully dip/scoop the finger into the building powder for a second time, again with
a slow upward motion.

95
At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

The thinner you apply your resin the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make it is dry. It will make
a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it click
when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

NOTE: If you find you are getting a dip over the stress area, you may need to
build that area up first. There is a video on this in the trouble shooting section of
the videos.

See video in module 5

96
Permanent French using Clear Tip & White/Coloured Powder
Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess, if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.
Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol on lint free wipes to remove dust

and dehydrate the nail plate.

Size and attach white (French) extension tips

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

Use 100 grit file to flatten the step of the well, and then use block buffer lightly to
remove shine

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of base resin/gel, covering to about 3/4 of the nail but
being careful not to touch skin.

Using either your dip tray or your powder tub, dip finger into the white powder
and gently move from side to side to create the free edge and smile line.
Remove from white powder, keep the finger pointed down and tap any excess
white powder off the nail, then dip/ scoop into the blush or clear powder.

If your free edge or smile line are patchy, you can repeat the above step.

If you are happy with your free edge and smile line, brush the base resin/gel over
the whole nail and dip/scoop into the blush or clear powder.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

97
The thinner you apply your resin the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make it is dry. It will make
a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it click
when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

98
 Refill of Permanent French Nails Dip System

The refill of the permanent french is EXACTLY THE SAME as the refill for the natural
look.

Rebalance of Permanent French Nails Dip System

Your artificial nails will need to be rebalanced once the grey line of the natural free edge
is showing.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail.

Buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the nail, concentrating on the enhancement
product only and around the sides, making sure there is no flaking or lifting product
around the regrowth line.

Thin free edge down using 100 grit file. The free edge needs to be thinned down a lot
more than when you are doing a refill as you need to have room to build and
reposition your new free edge.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

99
Brush on a reasonable coat of base resin/gel, covering the nail to about 1mm
from the cuticle but being careful not to touch the skin.

Using either your dip tray or your powder tub, dip finger into the white powder
and gently move from side to side to create the free edge and smile line and re
position it back over the natural free edge line. Remove from white powder, keep
the finger pointed down and tap any excess white powder off the nail, then dip/
scoop into the blush or clear powder.

If your free edge or smile line are patchy, you can repeat the above step but you
would cover the whole nail up to the cuticle with the base resin/gel before dipping
into the white and blush. Your nail should now be thick enough but if it is not you
can do another layer of base and blush or clear powder.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

The thinner you apply your resin the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make it is dry. It will make
a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it click
when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

100
 Coloured Nail Dip System

There are several different ways of doing the coloured dip nail so you may need to have a play
around and see what works best for you but here is my recommendation.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.

Very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file to remove shine and wipe with

nail dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and dehydrate nail

plate

Size and attach extension tips, you can use either natural or clear.

Cut extension tips to required length

Shape and blend if using natural look, or shape and remove step and shine if using

clear tips

Wipe with nail with dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint
free wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of base resin/gel, covering to about 3/4 of the nail but
being careful not to touch skin.

Slowly dip/scoop nail into clear or blush building powder with an upward scooping
motion. Do not dip finger too quickly or you will push the base resin/gel up the nail
making a lump at the cuticle.

Once powder has dissolved, brush another coat of building base resin/gel over the
whole nail right up to but not touching the cuticle, avoiding the skin.

101
It is very important that you check your brush for excess powder before putting it
back into base resin/gel bottle. If you have excess powder on the brush, wipe your
brush on a lint free wipe to remove it before replacing it back into your base
resin/gel or your brush will go hard. If it has a lot of powder or you feel it getting
hard, put it straight into your brush saver/rejuvenator for required time, wipe with lint
free wipe and put back into base coat bottle.

Carefully dip/scoop the finger into the coloured building powder.

Do another coat of base resin over the whole nail, keeping it thin at the cuticle and
dip for a second time into the coloured building powder.

This will ensure you have a good coverage around the edge so that when you go
to clean up at the end, you will not eat through the colour and make them patchy
around the edges.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is. The thinner you apply your resin the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make sure it is dry. It will
make a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it
click when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

102
 Refill of Coloured Nail Dip System

If you are changing colours you do not need to do a complete soak off. If you have done the
original nails with the first coat over 2/3rds of the nail in clear or blush you can just file back to
there.

If you have done the original nails building with colour from the start you will need to strip them
right back or remove, unless you are doing a similar or darker colour.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail.

If using the same colour or a darker colour buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the
nail, concentrating on the enhancement product only and around the sides, making
sure there is no flaking or lifting product around the regrowth line. Thin free edge
down using 100 grit file.

If you are using a different colour buff back to the clear/blush coating from the
original set if you did them that way if you are using the same or a darker colour. If
you didn’t do the clear/blush coat on the original set and you are using a lighter
colour you will need to do a soak off and follow new set instructions.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free

103
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Brush on a reasonable coat of building base resin/gel covering the whole nail
but beingcareful not to touch the skin.

Slowly dip/scoop nail in building powder with an upward scooping motion. Do not dip
the finger too quickly or you will push the base resin/gel up the nail making a lump.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep repeating the above
steps until it is.

The thinner you apply your base resin/gel the more dips you will need to do

After the last dip, once the powder has dissolved, brush the activator over the nail. Let
it drip from the brush, do not put too much pressure on the brush or you will get dents
in the nail enhancement.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make sure it is dry. It will
make a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it
click when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 5

104
 MODULE SIX

ACRYLIC SYSTEM (LIQUID/POWDER)

Before beginning any work with your nail system products please make sure you have read,
understood and follow the guidelines for Skin Overexposure and Hazards of Nail Glue which
you will find in Module 2 of this manual.

Acrylic or liquid/powder system is one of the oldest methods of creating artificial nails and many
people still don’t know what else is available on the market even through most other methods of
nail enhancements are much better for the nails and healthier for both the client and technician.

The acrylic system works by mixing a liquid and powder (known as monomer and polymer).
The nail can be created using an extension tip or by sculpting with a form.

There has been huge improvements made to the acrylic products over the last decade or so
and some ingredients are now banned although they still have a very strong smell and create
the most dust out of any of the systems we teach, so our guidelines on well ventilated areas,
masks and gloves really need to be adhere to.

Many salons are now moving away from traditional acrylic nail due to the toxic fumes and strong
lingering smells that they leave in the salon.

It is also the method of nail enhancements that is most likely to cause skin irritations and allergic
reactions.

Having said that it is still a service that is often asked for, but if you decide not to offer it, you
need to be well educated in the other systems so you can explain to your clients why they are a
better alternative.

105
 PRODUCTS FOR ACRYLIC
Watch video in module 6

You will need all of the product in the products and equipment section common to all nail
systems in module 3.

Products specific to the acrylic system are:

Acrylic Liquid – Monomer

This is the liquid used to mix with the powder to create the enhancement. Please make sure you
are following strict safety precautions when using this liquid and you are working in a well
ventilated area.

106
Fine grade building powder:
This can be clear, blush, white, coloured or glitter
This powder is exactly the same as you will be using with the dip system, so it can be called
either building powder or acrylic powder. You DO NOT need to get both, as long as you get a
fine grade professional quality powder it will work perfectly with both systems.

Non acid primer or bonder, this is the best to start with, if you have a client who is having
lifting problems you can move on to an acid primer.

107
Sable brush – we suggest you start with a #6 or #7 and move up from there if you feel you
need to. These brushes are made from kolinsky sable and a very easy to destroy. You need to
continually check for product build up while you are working and remove it as you go, then
follow the instructions in this manual and the video to clean and maintain it between services.
You cannot use a brush that is made of anything other than kolinsky sable for acrylic nails,
anything else will just disintegrate in the acrylic liquid.

Dappen dish – you will need at least one of these for your acrylic liquid, however we suggest
you also use them for your powder for hygiene reasons rather than dipping your brush straight
into your large tub of powder. So if you are going to be doing french or ombre, you will need 3, 1
for liquid, 1 for white powder and 1 for clear/blush powder.

108
 Getting your Mix Right

Watch video in module 6

You will need to practice with the liquid and powder before you start working on your models.

If your mix is not perfect you will struggle to get a professional looking nail.

The mix of powder and liquid needs to be not too wet and not too dry, but there are many
variables within that middle range.

Your beads need to be firm enough that they stay on your brush and sit on the nail and give you
time to shape.

If they are too dry they will crumble and fall of your brush, and if you do get them to the nail as
you push on them to shape they will just fall apart and off the nail.

If they are too wet, again they will not stay on the brush, but if they do once you get it on the nail
it will spread and just run over the sides, off the nail and onto the skin.

So you need to do some practice either on a practice/rubber hand or even just some spare tips.

Not all powders and liquids work the same way, you have fast setting products, medium setting
products and slow setting products.

Slow setting is best for you to start with as it will give you plenty of time to shape and perfect the
nail before it starts to set.

Once you find you are getting the nails shaped quickly and you would like them to set a bit
quicker you can move on to a medium or fast settting product., They will all give the same
result, you just have more time to work with the slow setting products.

You will find clear of very translucent powders are much easier to work with, the more pigment
in powders the harder they are to get the ratio correct, so you will find you will need to play
around a bit with colours if you are using them. Not all colours work the same either, you will
find some harder to get the ration correct than others, but a minute or two of practicing with
them before you do your client and you will perfect it.

109
 Natural Look Nails Acrylic

Please make sure you watch the video in Module 6 on mixing the
acrylic and do some practice on some spare tips or a practice hand
before attempting this on your models.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.

Very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file to remove shine and wipe with

nail dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and dehydrate nail

plate

Size and attach extension tips, natural look

Cut extension tips to required length

Shape and blend being careful to keep the file OFF the natural nail plate.

Wipe with nail with dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint
free wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.
Prime nail if required

Mix liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on nail

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just add more product.

110
Allow to dry. Your room temperature will play a big part in the drying time. If your room
is too cold it will take longer for the product to dry and it may even crystalize. Your
room temperature needs to be above 20c.

Tap with the handle of your sable brush to make sure it is dry. It will make a clicking
noise if dry. If it isn’t dry leave it for a bit longer. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it
will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural you can use a gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or f leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish
with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

111
 Natural Look Refill Acrylic

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and shape nail enhancement and buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the
nail, concentrating on the enhancement product only and around the sides, making
sure there is no flaking or lifting product around the regrowth line. Thin free edge
down using 100 grit file.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Prime new nail growth if required

Mix liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on nail concentrating on the regrowth area, then
feathering down over free edge

112
Allow to dry. Your room temperature will play a big part in the drying time. If your room
is too cold it will take longer for the product to dry and it may even crystalize. Your
room temperature needs to be above 20c.

Tap with the handle of your sable brush to make sure it is dry. It will make a clicking
noise if dry. If it isn’t dry leave it for a bit longer. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it
will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural you can use a gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or if leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish
with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

113
 Permanent French Using White/Coloured tip

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.

Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol on lint free wipes to remove dust and dehydrate the
nail plate.

Size and attach French extension tips. You can use white, coloured,

glitter or patterned tips for this.

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

Use block buffer lightly to remove shine if using white or coloured tips, if using glitter or
patterned just leave them. DO NOT BLEND, you want to keep the smile line intact.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Prime if required

Mix ball of liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on nail, keeping it thin at the cuticle end, down the

sides and at the tip.

114
Allow to dry. Your room temperature will play a big part in the drying time. If your room
is too cold it will take longer for the product to dry and it may even crystalize. Your
room temperature needs to be above 20c.

Tap with the handle of your sable brush to make sure it is dry. It will make a clicking
noise if dry. If it isn’t dry leave it for a bit longer. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it
will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural you can use a gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or if leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish
with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

115
 Permanent French Using White/Coloured Powder

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.

Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol on lint free wipes to remove dust and dehydrate the
nail plate.

Size and attach French extension tips. You can use natural or clear.

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

If using natural look tips blend remembering to keep the file OFF the natural nail plate. If
using clear tips, smooth the step and use block buffer lightly to remove the shine.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Prime if required

Mix a small ball of liquid and white powder and apply ball of mixture to free edge of
nail

Mould with brush into free edge shape desired

Mix liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on body of nail and feather down over

white free edge, keeping it thin at the cuticle and sides.

116
Allow to dry. Your room temperature will play a big part in the drying time. If your room
is too cold it will take longer for the product to dry and it may even crystalize. Your
room temperature needs to be above 20c.

Tap with the handle of your sable brush to make sure it is dry. It will make a clicking
noise if dry. If it isn’t dry leave it for a bit longer. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it
will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural you can use a gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or if leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish
with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

117
 Refill of Permanent French Acrylic System

The refill of the permanent french is EXACTLY THE SAME as the refill for the natural
look.

Rebalance of Permanent French Nails Acrylic System

Your artificial nails will need to be rebalanced once the grey line of the natural free edge
is showing.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail.

Buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the nail, concentrating on the enhancement
product only and around the sides, making sure there is no flaking or lifting product
around the regrowth line.

Thin free edge down using 100 grit file. The free edge needs to be thinned down a lot
more than when you are doing a refill as you need to have room to build and
reposition your new free edge.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

118
Prime new nail growth nail if required

Mix a small ball of liquid and white powder and apply ball of mixture to free edge of
nail

Mould with brush into free edge shape desired making sure you re position it back over
the natural free edge line.

Mix liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on body of nail concentrating on the regrowth and
feather down over white free edge

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep adding more products
until it is.

Allow to dry.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make it is dry. It will make
a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it click
when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

119
 Sculpting with Acrylic

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.

Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Fit form, making sure it is sitting flush

Prime nail if required

If doing a natural look or coloured nail mix liquid and powder and apply the ball to
the nail,

Mould with brush into shape on the body of the nail and feather down to tip.

If doing a permanent French nail mix a small ball of liquid and white/coloured
powder and apply ball of mixture to free edge of nail and extend down form

Mould with brush into free edge shape desired

Mix liquid and blush or clear powder and apply ball of mixture to nail

Mould with brush into shape on body of nail and feather down over

white free edge, keeping it thin at the cuticle and sides.

120
At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just keep adding more product
until it is.

Allow to dry.

Tap with an orangewood stick or acrylic nail brush handle to make it is dry. It will make
a clicking noise if dry. If it isn’t dry, do another coat of activator until you hear it click
when you tap it. If it is not dry and you start to file it, it will start peeling off.

Once dry lightly file with 100 grit file to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove
heavy file marks. At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and
continue with polish, or if leaving natural use the top coat from the dip system.

When using the dip system top coat, if you find it is not drying quickly enough you can
use your activator before or after each coat to speed it up. The top coat from the dip
system is ONLY to be used over the dip system, you cannot use if over any type of
polish.

If leaving the nails completely natural, after block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and
apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 6

121
 Coloured Nail Acrylic
To use coloured acrylic powder you will follow the steps for natural look up to tip
application.

You need to do a medium coat of clear or blush acrylic over about ¾ of the nail,
leaving a small gap at the cuticle end. Your remaining coats will be in the colour of
your choice and you will extend it all the way up to the cuticle.

Clean up and smooth around the edges as normal.

Refill of Coloured Nail Acrylic

If you are refilling in the same or a darker colour you just do it the same as you
would for a normal natural look refill.

If you are going back to a lighter colour, you will need to strip the product back to
the clear or blush coating that you put on first in the original set, you can then
proceed as normal for a refill with your new colour.

Make sure all of the old colour is completely removed from the nail plate, if it is
darker than the colour you are applying, it will show through.

See videos in Module 6

122
 MODULE SEVEN

GEL SYSTEM
Before beginning any work with your nail system products please make sure you have read,
understood and follow the guidelines for Skin Overexposure and Hazards of Nail Glue which
you will find in Module 2 of this manual.

Gel nails are a great alternative for those who do not want acrylic nails and much
healthier for the nails, client and technician as many salons try to move away from
the toxic chemicals and fumes associated with acrylic nails.

This system works with a “hard” gel which usually comes in tubs or tubes and is
the consistency of thick honey.

Once applied to the nail it is cured with a UV or LED lamp rather than another chemical.

Gel nails are very light and comfortable for the client to wear, they are long lasting
more natural alternative for your clients and this is a very easy system to master.

There are two types of gel. One is used for building nail enhancement and the
other is used to decorate natural nails or nail enhancements.

The one you will be using in this section is known as hard gel or builder gel. This
is a very strong gel used for building nail enhancements. It can be moulded to
form the desired shape and used with tips or sculpting forms. Please note, this gel
can NOT be used like gel polish. Because it is a hard gel if you do not apply it to
the correct thickness it will chip, crack and break as it has absolutely NO flexibility.

Soft gel is what is known as gel polish. This is applied thin like normal polish and
is used to decorate the nail or nail enhancement. It cannot be used for building a
nail enhancement as it does not have the strength.

Both kinds of gel can be UV or LED cured, so we suggest getting a combination

UV/LED lamp so you can use it on any gel products hard or soft on the market.

123
 Products Specific to the Gel System

Watch video in module 7

You will need all of the product in the products and equipment section common to all nail
systems in module 3.

Products specific to the acrylic system are:

Curing Lamp – there is a lot of information on the lamps and their

safety immediately following this section in the training manual.

124
Clear and White Gel, also pink and coloured if you would like to be
more creative.

Most building gels will cure with an inhibition (tacky) layer, that needs to
be wiped off after curing of the top coat. All layers of the gel will have
this tacky finish but you only wipe it off after curing the top coat, you do
not wipe it off the lower layers.

Gel Brush – unlike the brush you use for acrylic nails which is made of
kolinsky sable and very easy to destroy, the gel brushes are a much
cheaper acrylic material and very hardy. They are quite firm and if
looked after correctly you will get a lot of use out of them.

125
Gel Wipe – this is multi functional, it is used to remove the inhibition
(tacky) layer from the last coat of gel if it has one, and can also be used
to dehydrate the nail as it is an alcohol based product.

Pump Dispenser for gel wipe or other nail solutions.

These are a great way to dispense your liquids.
They are optional

126
Lint Free Wipes – these are used with your
solutions. They are better to use than cotton wool as
they will not leave any lint or fluff on the nails.

UV Protector Gloves – For your clients who are a

bit worried about the safety of the lamps there are
gloves with the tips cut out. You can stock and sell
them these gloves to bring with them at each
appointment. You must not use the same gloves on
more than one person.

127
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT LAMPS

You do not need to spend a fortune on a lamp. The only different between the expensive lamps
and the less expensive lamps is the brand name on them, and some many have slightly more
bulky cases. It is the UV and LED bulbs that do the curing and they are EXACTLY THE SAME
in all lamps.

There are three kinds of lamps you can get.

UV – This is straight UV bulbs that will cure both UV and LED cured gels but will take a longer
time.

LED – Straight LED lights, these are quicker but will ONLY CURE LED cured gels.

UV/LED – This kind of lamp is the one we would recommend getting. These lamps are as quick
as LED lamps but have a mix of UV and LED bulbs so will cure any gel on the market whether it
be gel polish or builder gel.

DO NOT BE FOOLED BY SOME OF THE MORE EXPENSIVE GEL BRANDS THAT WILL
TELL YOU THEIR GEL WILL ONLY CURE IN THEIR LAMP.

This is absolute rubbish, and you are looking at a huge difference in price, with the medium
range lamps starting at around $60 to $150 that will do the same job as the more expensive
lamps at around $400 to $600 or even more being charged by some of the bigger brands.

I CANNOT STRESS ENOUGH; THEY ARE ALL THE SAME.

128
SAFETY AND YOUR LAMP

There has been some concern about using UV lamps to cure the gel, saying it can lead to
premature wrinkles, age spots and even skin cancer, however the FDA views nail curing lamps
are low risk when used as they should be, as it is such a small amount of exposure.

People are also under the impression that LED lamps are safer to use than UV lamps which is
not true. BOTH lamps emit ultraviolet radiation, predominantly in the form of UVA, however as
mentioned above for very short periods of time every 2 to 3 weeks is not likely to increase the
risk of skin cancer significantly but you need to be aware that it may on some people.

The only benefit LED lamps over UV lamps is that they cure quicker, but there is also a
drawback that they do not cure all gels. So the combination UV/LED lamps are a much better
choice.

So what can you do to eliminate your client’s concerns.

You can use sunscreen before you put the hands in the lamp, or you can get specially designed
UV protective gloves from most beauty wholesalers. These are white cotton gloves with the tops
of the fingers cut out, so the only part of the hand that is being exposed to the UV is the
fingertip.

If you are using these gloves, and it is a good idea to use them, you will need to get your clients
to purchase them from you and then bring them every time they have a service. You cannot use
one pair of gloves on multiple people.

Anyone with any concern about the exposure will be more than happy to purchase them.

129
VARIATION IN CURING TIMES
Curing times may very slightly, a matter of seconds depending on the product and lamp you are
using but the following are some guidelines that should work for most products and lamps.

UV or LED builder gel, in a UV curing lamp:

30 seconds for the very thin coat you massage in at the start
120 seconds for the thicker coat or coats
120 seconds for any final coat

LED Builder Gel, in an LED curing lamp:

10 seconds for the first very thin coat you massage in
30 to 60 seconds for the thicker coat or coats
60 to 90 seconds for any final coat

UV cured Gel polish WILL NOT cure in an LED lamp no matter how long you leave it in.

UV AND LED builder gels will both cure in a UV/LED lamp.

10 seconds for the first very thin coat you massage in
30 to 60 seconds for the thicker coat or coats
60 to 90 seconds for any final coat

You may need to play around with these times a little but it would only be around 10 seconds
difference between products and lamps.

130
 Natural Look Gel System

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.

Very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file to remove shine and wipe with

nail dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and dehydrate nail

plate

Size and attach extension tips, natural look

Cut extension tips to required length

Shape and blend being careful to keep the file OFF the natural nail plate.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Prime nail if required

Massage a very thin layer of clear gel into the nails and cure for 10 seconds under a
UV/LED light or 30 seconds under a UV light.

Apply a slightly thicker coat to the nail making sure to keep it thin around the edges
and built up over the stress area and cure for 60 seconds under a UV/LED light or
120 seconds under a UV light.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just repeat the above step with a
slightly thinner coat of gel, and remove inhibition layer (tacky layer) after curing if it
has one.

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Clean up and perfect around the edges and over the top by lightly filing with 100 grit file
to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove heavy file marks. At this point if you
are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish, or if leaving
natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after block buffer,
finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 7

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 Natural Look Refill Gel System

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail. Buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the nail,
concentratingon the cuticle end and around the sides, making sure there is no flaking
or lifting product. Thin free edge down using 100 grit file.

Gently etch new nail growth and wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and
sterilize nail

Massage a very thin layer of clear gel into the nails and cure for 10 seconds under a
UV/LED light or 30 seconds under a UV light.

Apply a slightly thicker coat to the nail making sure to keep it thin around the edges
and built up over the stress area and cure for 60 seconds under a UV/LED light or
120 seconds under a UV light.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just repeat the above step with a
slightly thinner coat of gel, and remove inhibition layer (tacky layer) if it has one.

Clean up and perfect around the edges and over the top by lightly filing with 100 grit file
to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove heavy file marks. At this point if you
are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish, or if leaving
natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal polish top
coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after block buffer,
finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 7

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 Permanent French with White/Coloured Tip

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel to sterilize nails and hands

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.

Very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file to remove shine and wipe with

nail dehydrator or alcohol on a lint free wipe to remove dust and dehydrate nail

plate

Size and attach extension tips, white or coloured

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

Use block buffer lightly to remove shine if using white or coloured tips, if using glitter or
patterned just leave them. DO NOT BLEND, you want to keep the smile line intact.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Massage a very thin layer of clear gel into the nails and cure for 10 seconds under a
UV/LED light or 30 seconds under a UV light.

Apply a slightly thicker coat to the nail making sure to keep it thin around the edges
and built up over the stress area and cure for 60 seconds under a UV/LED light or
120 seconds under a UV light.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just repeat the above step with a
slightly thinner coat of gel, and remove inhibition layer (tacky layer) after curing if it
has one.

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Clean up and perfect around the edges and over the top by lightly filing with 100 grit file
to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove heavy file marks.

At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish,
or if leaving natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal
polish top coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after
block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 7

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 Permanent French Look with Tip and White/Coloured Gel
Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition, you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint freewipe.

Remove shine and very lightly etch natural nail with 180 or 240 grit file

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol on lint free wipes to remove dust and dehydrate the
nail plate.

Size and attach French extension tips. You can use natural or clear.

Cut extension tips to required length and shape

If using natural look tips blend remembering to keep the file OFF the natural nail plate. If
using clear tips, smooth the step and use block buffer lightly to remove the shine.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.

Massage a very thin layer of clear gel into the nails and cure for 10 seconds under a
UV/LED light or 30 seconds under a UV light.

Taking a small amount of white or coloured gel, place it on the tip of the nail and
move into desired shape for free edge.

NOTE: Your gel needs to be quite firm to do this. If you are working in a very warn
climate, keep your gel in the fridge and stand it in a bowl of cool water to keep it
thick while working. If you are still having problems, just put each finger into the
lamp for about 10 seconds after you have created the free edge which will put a
skin over the gel and hold it in place while you do the rest.

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Once you have happy with your free edge and smile lines, apply a slightly thicker
coat to the nail making sure to keep it thin around the edges and built up over the
stress area and cure for 60 seconds under a UV/LED light or 120 seconds under a
UV light.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just repeat the above step with a
slightly thinner coat of gel, and remove inhibition layer (tacky layer) after curing if it
has one.

Clean up and perfect around the edges and over the top by lightly filing with 100 grit file
to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove heavy file marks.

At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish,
or if leaving natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal
polish top coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after
block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 7

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 Refill of Permanent French Gel System

The refill of the permanent french is EXACTLY THE SAME as the refill for the natural
look.

Rebalance of Permanent French Nails Gel System

Your artificial nails will need to be rebalanced once the grey line of the natural free edge
is showing.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
Shorten and reshape nail.

Buff approx.. 1/3rd of the product from the nail, concentrating on the enhancement
product only and around the sides, making sure there is no flaking or lifting product
around the regrowth line.

Thin free edge down using 100 grit file. The free edge needs to be thinned down a lot
more than when you are doing a refill as you need to have room to build and
reposition your new free edge.

Your nail should now be free of all lifted product and no sign of old product that will
show through the new coating.

Check the shape from the barrel and side, the peak should be back over the stress
area before applying the new coating.

Gently etch new nail growth at cuticle end.

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Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate nail. Use one lint free
wipe for 2 nails, turning over from one nail to the other so as not to spread the dust.
Massage a very thin layer of clear gel into the nails and cure for 10 seconds under a
UV/LED light or 30 seconds under a UV light.

Taking a small amount of white or coloured gel, place it on the tip of the nail and
move into desired shape for free edge to re position it back over the natural free
edge line.

NOTE: Your gel needs to be quite firm to do this. If you are working in a very warn
climate, keep your gel in the fridge and stand it in a bowl of cool water to keep it
thick while working. If you are still having problems, just put each finger into the
lamp for about 10 seconds after you have created the free edge which will put a
skin over the gel and hold it in place while you do the rest.

Once you have happy with your free edge and smile lines, apply a slightly thicker
coat to the nail making sure to keep it thin around the edges and built up over the
stress area and cure for 60 seconds under a UV/LED light or 120 seconds under a
UV light.

At this point you need to check the thickness of the nail enhancement both from the
side and down the barrel. If it is not thick enough, just repeat the above step with a
slightly thinner coat of gel, and remove inhibition layer (tacky layer) after curing if it
has one.

Clean up and perfect around the edges and over the top by lightly filing with 100 grit file
to perfect shape and move to block buffer to remove heavy file marks.

At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish,
or if leaving natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal
polish top coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after
block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.
See video in module 7

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 MODULE EIGHT

Buff & Polish

There are times when your client will need her nails looking perfect in between refills
or rebalances. On these occasions you can offer her a buff and polish which will
clean the nails up until her next appointment for maintenance.

Client and Technician to wash hands thoroughly with antibacterial soap

Client and technician to use antibacterial spray or gel

Treat cuticles with cuticle remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary

Use metal cuticle pusher to push cuticles back and remove excess with block buffer or
cuticle clippers. If cuticles are not in good condition you can treat them with cuticle
remover/conditioner and clip any excess if necessary, but you must remove cuticle
remover/conditioner with non-acetone nail polish remover on lint free wipe.
If required shorten and reshape nail.

Lightly file around the cuticle and sides (180 grit file) to remove any step or flaking
product, for this you hardly remove any product this is just a tidy up ready for
polish.

Buff well with block buffer.

At this point if you are using polish, just wipe over with alcohol and continue with polish,
or if leaving natural you can use a very thin coat of the builder gel, gel polish or normal
polish top coat to give it a shine, or if you client wants them completely natural, after
block buffer, finish with chamois buffer and apply cuticle oil.

See video in module 8

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NAIL PAINTING

This information relates to normal nail enamel, however the actual application technique is the
same for gel polish, but the prep and removal for gel polish is quite different and is shown in the
videos in Module 10 & 11 and explained further on in this manual.

Good preparation for nail enamel will make all the difference to how it applies and lasts. If the
enhancement product is not well prepped and clean of all oil, cream and grime the polish will not
bond well to it and will start to chip and peel quickly.

Once you have completed all steps up to and including the block buffer. Make sure you get the
nail enhancement as smooth as you can with the block buffer but do not go over it with the
chamois buffer, you do not want the surface to be so smooth that the polish will not bond. Then
you will need wipe over the nail enhancement with a lint free wipe soaked in nail dehydrator or
alcohol to remove all dust and slightly dehydrate the top of the nail enhancement product.

Always make sure your polish is at a workable consistency. If it is too thick it will not apply well
and peel quickly. If your polish starts getting thick and tacky you can add some polish thinner to
keep it workable.

You are better doing more thin coats than less thick coats, and the less strokes you can do to
get the nail covered the smoother the end result will be.

You also need to get used to holding the bottle in the palm of your hand that is supporting the
client’s hand. Please watch the video on this. It is more professional and will save you having to
chase the bottle around your table.

Ideally you want to get it on in three strokes, but that depends entirely on the size and length of
the nails.

Start at the base (cuticle end) and apply one stroke down the middle of the nail. Then go back to
the middle of the base of the nail, slide the brush around the cuticle and then down the side to
fill in the rest of the nail, you may need to do this one, two or if necessary 3 strokes per side until
the whole side of the nail is covered making sure the polish is neat and smooth around the
cuticle. Then repeat on the other side of the nail.

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This is not easy and takes a lot of practice. Some colours and polishes apply better than others
and it is usually to do with the quality of the brush.

There are some colours that are very hard to apply such as white, very pale pinks, black or very
dark colours and these need to be absolutely perfect to look good.

If you brush any polish onto the skin you need to remove it using either an orangewood stick
wrapped in cotton wool and dipped in non acetone polish remover or a polish corrector pen. The
nails should look perfect when your client leaves, and make sure they sit for plenty of time to
allow the polish to dry.

ALWAYS USE A BASE COAT OR NAIL STRENGTHENER

This is more for natural nail painting, but it is a good habit to get into for any nail painting.

The base coat or nail strengthener does multiple tasks. It is the glue that holds everything
together. Base coats are designed to be sticky so they bond very well to the nail plate (with
proper preparation) and the coloured polish will then bond very well to the base coat. Using a
base coat will help the polish stay on much longer.

It also helps prevent nail staining from the coloured polish, although some very bright or dark
colours may oxidize and still manage to stain the nails, but it will be less than if a base coat
wasn’t used.

ALWAYS USE A TOP COAT

The top coat is designed to seal the deal. It is a harder polish which holds its shine better than
just colour alone and helps prevent chips and wearing of the colour. Most top coats are also fast
drying meaning your client is less likely to smudge the nails.

ALWAYS DO THIN COATS

Check the consistency of your polish and use polish thinner if necessary. Normally you would
do four thin coats, 1 x base, 2 x colour and 1 x top coat. Some polishes are very transparent or
naturally very thin so on the odd occasion you may need to do 3 x colour.

If you apply your colour thin enough you do not have to wait between coats. By the time you
have done all 10 fingers you are ready to go back and start at finger 1 again immediately.

See video in Module 4

Gel polish application and removal instructions can be found in Module 10 & 11

142
 Repair a Broken Nail Enhancement

Watch video in Module 8

If your client comes with a broken nail there are various ways to fix it.

If it is a very small crack, file the product back in that area and re-apply. If need be
you may need to lightly file and do another coating over the whole nail to get it
even, then clean up and finish as normal
This will only hold if the crack is only in the top coatings and is very small.
If it is all the way through and includes the natural nail this will not be strong enough
and the whole artificial nail will have to be removed and replaced from scratch.
If the crack is too large or open this will not be strong enough to hold and you will
need to remove the whole artificial nail and replace from scratch.

Prep on Damaged or Lifting Nail Enhancement

If your client comes in with a damaged nail enhancement but not damaged enough that
you need to remove it, you need to make sure you remove all loose and damaged
product and have a clean surface before the new coating.

There are two videos for you to watch in Module 8, one covers a nail with product that is
lifting and one covers a nail that has a hairline crack and some lifting.

To prep the nails you need to very carefully clip any loose product away and then slowly
and gently buff to blend the rest of the product so it is not visible at all on the nail plate.

Watch videos in Module 8

Prep on Damaged Nail Enhancement
Prep on Lifting Nail Enhancement

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 Temporary Tips

Temporary tips are an ideal way to dress up the hands for someone who has not got
nice enough nails for a manicure but does not want the financial or time commitment
of full on nail enhancements.

Temporary tips are ideal for brides, debutants, someone going on a short holiday or
anybody with a special occasion who just wants their nails to look nice for a few
days.

Temporary tips will last anywhere between 3-4 days and 2 weeks or more and will
either just flick off by themselves or can be easily removed by just carefully filing or
soaking inacetone.

To apply temporary tips you begin in exactly the same way as for the extension tips
in the full set of nails.

Lightly buff the natural nail.

Match the tip.

Fill the well with glue and apply to natural nail.

Cut tip to desired length and shape.

Blend into natural nail remembering to keep file moving across nail so as not to
cause friction and DO NOT file on the natural nail plate.

Buff over tip and nail lightly with white buffer to remove any scratch marks from 100
grit file.

Buff over tip and nail lightly with chamois buffer to bring nail to a smooth shine.

Wipe with nail dehydrator or alcohol to remove dust and dehydrate the nail and

then paint as normal.

Watch video in Module 8

144
 Removing Nail Enhancements

Removing the artificial nail is a fairly time consuming process, but if you are
careful and patient you can remove them without any further damage to the
natural nail.

You can use either the soak or wrap technique, I highly recommend the wrap
technique as you can protect the surrounding skin this way.

The removal is the same for all nail enhancement systems, some will just take
a little longer than others. Acrylic will usually take the longest to remove, and
any gel product usually the quickest, dip system takes a little longer than gel
but not as long as acrylic. How long it will take will also depend on the
thickness of the enhancement and how long it has been on for.

First you need to etch the top of the nail enhancement so the acetone can
soak in and soften it all the way through.

For soak, place a small amount of acetone into two glass bowls.

For wrap, use Vaseline on a cotton bud and apply on the skin and cuticle
around and under the nail.

Take a soak or pad and drench the pad with acetone and wrap tightly around
the top of the finger. You can also use normal household foil and cotton wool
for this.

Leave on for 10-12 minutes.

If using soak method, remove one hand and start gently buffing.

If using wrap technique remove wrap from one finger at a time and start gently
buffing.

You will notice that the product has become rubbery and the top will file off quite
easily.

Place back in acetone or re wrap and repeat on other hand.

145
Move back to first hand and keep repeating this process until all of the product is
able to be filed off.

Be very careful as you get closer to the natural nail as you do not want to file into
the nail plate

Shape natural nails and treat cuticles.

Massage oil into nail polate and

cuticles.

Have client wash hands.

Apply a nail strengthener.

It is a good idea for the client to continue to use a good nail strengthener and
have hot oil manicures until nails get back to normal.

If the nails have not been damaged in the enhancement and removal process
the nails will be back to normal within a few weeks.

If the nails have been damaged the nails will not be back to normal until the
have completely grown out from the cuticle which is normally 3-4 months. If this
is the case the client needs to keep the nails very short until they have grown
out. The ends will continually snap and peel off until they are back to normal.

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 MODULE NINE

GEL POLISH

INTRODUCTION

Gel soak off polish can come in UV or LED cured formulas. More commonly known as Shellac,
due to the fact that CND released the first form of gel polish and called it Shellac. Just so you
are aware, Shellac is just one of hundreds of brands of gel polish.

It is important that you recognise that this product is NOT normal nail enamel.

The nails need special preparation before application and it cannot be removed with normal nail
polish remover. It needs to be soaked off properly with acetone and not really something you
want your clients doing at home unless they know what they are doing.

It is important that you educate yourself and your client in exactly what is being applied to their
nails. Your client needs to understand that they cannot take this product off at home and change
the colour themselves. It cannot be removed with normal nail polish remover. It has to be
soaked off in an acetone based product and any residue scrapped or buffed carefully from the
nail plate, something most clients cannot do for themselves.

If you have training in using gel polish over natural nails you will need to refer to the instructions
and videos in the next two modules as it is a slightly different process when applying and
removing from nail enhancements.

Gel polish is a soft gel. This is a totally different product to the hard Gel that is used in nail
enhancements and is applied in a totally different manner.

Hard Gel is used to build an artificial nail and/or extend the nail, and designed to be left on and
refilled as the nail grows.

Gel polish, or soft gel is designed to be painted over the natural nail or nail enhancement like
nail polish and totally removed and reapplied every 2-3 weeks as the nail grows out.

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GEL POLISH PRODUCTS & EQUIPMENT

Watch videos in Module 9

You will need all of the product in the products and equipment section common to all nail
systems in module 3.

Products specific to the gel system are:

CURING LAMP
UV, LED or UV/LED lamp to cure the product, more explanation on lamps and safety in
Module 7 in this manual

Please read the information on lamps in Module 7 of this manual.

GEL POLISH
You will need a base and top coat and a range of colours, don’t get too many colours to start
with, you may want to try a few brands before you decide on the one you like, and there is no
issue with using more than one brand as long as you have the corresponding base and top coat
for each range.

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GEL CLEANSER / GEL WIPE

This is an alcohol based solution that will remove the inhibition layer (tacky layer) if you are
using a top coat that cures with the inhibition layer

CUTICLE PUSHER

Metal / spoon cuticle pusher to prepare the cuticles and remove the gel polish from the nails
after soaking

FOR REMOVAL

Cotton wool and foil or gel polish removal pads

149
OR GLASS SOAK OFF BOWL

GEL REMOVER SOLUTION OR ACETONE

Please ensure you get beauty grade acetone for this, do not go to the hardware store and get
commercial grade acetone as it will burn your clients nails and skin.

150
CHOOSING THE GEL POLISH

There is a huge difference in quality between the very cheap and the very expensive, but not
between the moderately priced and the very expensive.

As with the lamps you can pay far too much for a brand name product that is only going to do
the same job as a less expensive brand, and in my experience, quite often doesn’t do the job as
well as the less expensive brands.

You need to stay away from the very cheap brands, anything around the $5 to $10 range will
normally be very thick and smelly, they tend to peel off very easily and some of them have some
very harsh ingredients such as Formaldehyde, Toluene and Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) which any
professional brand will not contain.

Normally $12 and above you will get a good product, and if it is being sold by a wholesaler it will
be professional quality. So anywhere between $12 and around $20 will all do a good job. Over
$20 you are wasting your money, as mentioned above, they will normally not do the job any
better and in a lot of cases are not as good as the medium priced brands. You are paying for the
brand name, not the quality of the product.

I suggest you only get a small range to start with. Try a couple of different brands and see which
one you like best. There is also nothing wrong with stocking a few brands. Normally the base
and top coats will all work together, I have had occasion where they didn’t, but this would be
very rare.

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CURING THE GEL POLISH
The curing times for the builder gels will vary depending on both the brand that you are using
and the lamp that you are using, so it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions
carefully.

The top coat on some brands will cure with an inhibition layer (tacky finish) that needs to be
removed with a gel cleanser and others will cure dry and will not need the gel cleanser.

As well as curing correctly you can both under cure or over cure.

If you have left the hand in the lamp for the required amount of time and you find the product is
still not curing, it is most likely that your lamp is getting old and needs to be replaced.

If you are using a UV lamp you can replace the bulbs. You will find when you put new bulbs in
your curing time can be cut down slightly for the first few hours of use.

It is much more difficult to replace the bulbs in an LED or UV/LED lamp, it normally required
completely dismantling the lamp, and often they don’t go back together easily. As most LED
lamps are good for 50,000 hours, you are best just getting a new one, you would have done in
excess of 8,000 sets of nails.

UNDERCURING

You will know if you have under cured the product if when you bring the clients hand out from
the lamp and wipe the tacky surface from the top coat if it has one the product will still feel sticky
or like wet nail polish. If this happens you will need to put the hand back into the lamp for
another minute or so to cure it properly. Please note, you DO NOT wipe the tacky surface from
the base or colour coats, you only wipe it at the end after using the top coat if it cures with the
tacky surface.

OVERCURING

If you over cure, this is normally because you have left the hand in the lamp for too long, you will
find the product will buckle or crack. This will leave you with a nail that does not have a nice
smooth finish. This can also happen if you apply your product too thickly.
If this happens, you really need to remove the product and re-apply.

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VARIATION IN CURING TIMES

This has been mentioned above, it will depend on the product and lamp you are using but the
following are some guidelines that should work for most products and lamps.

UV Gel polish will normally cure in 2 minutes under a UV lamp, for each of the base and colour
coats, for the top coat it is a good idea to give it 3 minutes.

If you are using an LED cured Gel polish in an LED lamp, your curing time is normally 30 to 60
seconds per coat for the base and colour coats, and 60 to 90 seconds for the top coat.

LED cured Gel polish will also cure in a UV lamp but you will need to leave it in for 2 minutes
per coat for base and colour coats and 3 minutes for top coat.

UV cured Gel polish WILL NOT cure in an LED lamp no matter how long you leave it in.

UV AND LED gels will both cure in a UV/LED lamp. This would be the lamp we would
recommend you use as it should cure any gel product.

Base and colour coats 30 to 60 seconds each, top coat 90 to 120 seconds.

You may need to play around with these times a little but it would only be around 10 seconds
difference between products and lamps.

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GEL POLISH APPLICATION

If you have been trained in using gel polish on natural nails this process is only very slightly
different.

Create your nail enhancements as normal but once you get to the point where you have
perfected and gone over the enhancement with the block buffer on the first hand, you can start
applying and curing the polish on that hand, while continuing to finish of the perfecting step on
the second hand. You do not want to use the chamois and make it too smooth or the gel polish
will not bond.

After buffing well with the block buffer, wipe over nail enhancement with dehydrator or alcohol to
remove dust and this will also slightly dehydrate the top of the nail enhancement for better
bonding.

You will need to either use a new wipe for each nail, or each side of a wipe for two nails.
Do not use the same wipe for all nails or you will just be transferring the dust from one
nail to the other.

Normally on nail enhancements you can skip the base coat of the gel polish, but if you find you
are getting peeling then you will need to use it. It will vary from client to client and how they treat
their nails.

If you find it necessary, apply base coat to nails on first hand, this needs to be applied as thinly
as possible and is not to come into contact with the skin. If you do spill some on the cuticle, it
needs to be removed with gel wipe before the product is cured. If you leave it on the skin, it will
eventually loosen and break the bond and cause the product to lift.

Don’t forget to seal your free edge.

Place the hand in the lamp and cure for recommended time as above.

While it is curing you can continue on with the perfecting/finish of the second hand.

When the base coat on the first hand is cured, bring it out and apply the first coat of colour (or if
applying French polish, apply the while tip). Don’t forget to seal your free edge.

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Place the hand back in the lamp to cure for required time and continue with the
perfecting/finishing step on the second hand.

When the first colour coat is cured bring the hand out of the lamp and apply the second coat of
colour (or if applying French polish the clear/pink coat). Don’t forget to seal your free edge.

Place the hand back in the lamp to cure and continue with the perfecting/finishing step on the
second hand.

Once the second colour coat is cured bring the hand out of the lamp and apply the top coat.
Don’t forget to seal the free edge.

Place the hand back in the lamp to cure and continue with the perfecting/finishing step on the
second hand, you should be finished with this step by the time the first hand is cured and have
the base coat on the second hand, ready to put straight into the lamp.

Once the top coat is cured remove first hand from the lamp.
If it is a top non tacky cure top cost you can now apply cuticle oil to the first hand.

If it is a top coat that cures with an inhibition layer (tacky finish) you will need to wipe over the
nails with gel cleanser to remove it. Use a clean wipe for each nail, or one wipe for two nails by
turning it over for the second finger. If you use the same wipe for all fingers you will just be
transferring the inhibition layer (tacky finish) from one nail to the next. If the inhibition layer still
feels tacky it is most likely because you have not used enough gel wipe solution.

You are now ready to continue the gel polish application on the second hand.

If you have two lamps to work with, one each side of the table, you can complete the
perfecting/finishing step of the nail enhancement up to the block buffer stage and then, to the
polish on both hands at the same time. Either way it will take around the same amount of time

IMPORTANT NOTE

The base and colour coats of the gel polish will have an inhibition (tacky) layer, you should not
touch them between coats, and you DO NOT remove the inhibition layer on those coats.
You only remove the inhibition layer from the TOP COAT if it has one, but most top coats on the
market will cure completely with no tacky layer.

See video in module 9

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GEL POLISH REMOVAL

As with the application, if you are used to doing gel polish on the natural nail, this technique is
quite different.

If you have not already been doing so make sure you wear disposable gloves, mask and safety
goggles when doing this.

Use course file to lightly rough up the top of the product and break the seal.

Apply Vaseline with cotton bud around cuticle area to protect the skin and cuticle from acetone.

Lay clients hands flat on the table, drench cotton ball (half) with acetone or soak off solution and
place over nails, DO NOT WRAP.

You only need to leave it on for about 2 minutes which is long enough to soften the gel polish
but it won’t affect the nail enhancement underneath except maybe the very top layer which you
will be removing in the maintenance anyway.

Remove cotton wool from first hand.

Remove any excess polish carefully with spoon cuticle pusher, then use 100 grit file to remove
the remainder of the polish, and you can then continue on prepping the nail for the new
enhancement coating.

Repeat on second hand

Watch videos in Module 9

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 MODULE TEN

E FILE – Electric Nail File – Basic Applications

Please do not move on to using your e file until you are completely competent with your
hand file techniques and have your prep and finish absolutely perfect. This way you will
have had experience with working on the natural nail plate and around the edges of the
nail and skin and how careful you have to be.

You must complete and submit the exercises on the e file for feedback before using it on
your models.

While the e file can speed your services up and save on hand and arm strain, you can do A
LOT of damage to the nails and cuticles if you are not very careful with the e file.
This is a basic nail drill course, we are going to show you how to do the bulk of your work with a
sanding band and a ceramic safety bit which comes with your drill if you purchased our kit. If
you don’t have our kit you can just use the sanding bands.

We have a more advanced course which will show you how to use multiple drill bits for different
prep of the cuticles, natural nail plate, cutting in for smile lines and many more applications, but
you will need to master the basics first, and you may find that what we teach you here is enough
for you if you are still happy to incorporate the hand file as well.

INFORMATION ON YOUR DRILLS

Your drill will have an off/on switch as well as a forward/reverse switch and a control switch for
speed. You must always turn the drill back to zero when changing the direction or you will burn
the motor out.

The reason there is a reverse and forward control is so the drill can be used for left or right
handed people, or for working on different sides of the nails.

Some will have a foot switch as well.

It will also have a barrel to lock and unlock the drill bit holder for easy changing of your drill bits.
It is important that you turn the barrel gently each way so as not to force opening and closing of
the bit holder. It is normally turn gently to the left until it clicks to open and then turn gently to the
right until it clicks to closed but may vary depending on the drill you are using.

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It important that you take care of your drill and make sure it is wiped over with disinfectant after
each use being careful not to let it get into the motor.

Make sure you always use a dust protector ring on your drill bit. This is the little round plastic bit
that runs up and down the arm of your drill bit, you need to position your drill bit with the round
protector right up to bit opening of the drill, it stops dust being sucked into the motor which will
destroy your machine.

The ones that are coloured represent the grit/coarseness of the drill bit, more information below,
but you can also get spares which are usually just white.

See video on Module 10

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR USING AN E FILE

It is very important that you wear a mask, safety glasses and gloves, and have a well ventilated
work area when using an e file for obvious reasons.

SAFETY GLASSES/GOGGLES – You need to wear these in the even that a large particle
comes off the enhancement and flicks up into your eye. It is also a very good idea to give your
clients some safety glasses to wear also.

MASK – Even if you have an extraction fan the drill creates a lot more airborne dust than a hand
file and no extraction fan can catch it all, so you need to avoid breathing it in by wearing a face
mask, it is also a good idea for your client to be wearing one also while using the drill.

GLOVES – This is particular important to protect you from over exposure to possible unreacted
monomer in the dust which can lead to an allergic reaction. Wearing gloves will minimise the
risk. Please read the information in the training manual on overexposure to nail products.

VENTILATION – You always need to make sure you are working in a well ventilated area to
minimise the risk of inhaling the dust. Extraction fans where possible and there just be fresh air
circulating as much as possible via open doors and windows.

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DRILL BITS

There are literally dozens of different styles of drill bits used for different applications but most
techs can do very well with about 3 or 4 different styles that will do most applications they need.
You need to make sure you are getting the real deal when purchasing your drill bits, normally
the price will be a good indicator. If you are getting single bits for less than $10 or kits with about
4 to 5 bits for less than $35 they will be inferior. On average your single drill bits in any material
should be upwards of $14, but don’t pay more than $25 per piece, they are most likely the same
as the $14.00 ones. For kits with 4 to 5 bits in them you could expect to pay upward of $45 to
$50. Don’t bargain hunt, you will end up with junk that you can’t use and it will cost you more in
the long run.

Drill bits are made from several different types of material.

All drill bits no matter what they are made of will range from very fine to very course and
everything in between. Which one you use will depend on the application you are using it for.
Like a normal hand file, the courser the drill bit the more product it will remove.
The most basic is the sanding band. This is a band that fits around a steel mandrel on the end
of the drill bit, these are used for multiple applications especially for new e file users and are
single use and disposable.

Sanding bands

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Steel Mandrel to hold the sanding band

Normally in the kits that come with the drills will be a set of 5 or 6 drill bits, plus various grades
of sanding bands. These are usually stainless steel and not effective at all, the only one you will
use out of that kit will be the steel mandrel for the sanding band. Don’t even both trying to use
the rest they are terrible quality.

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Next you have tungsten carbide, this is very strong and durable and can cut through the product
very quickly but can cause a lot of burning if you are not very careful with your use. Make sure
they are actually tungsten carbide and not a cheaper material.

Diamond bits are another popular one, again very strong and durable but can also cause a lot of
burning with incorrect use. These look very like the drill bits that come in the drill kit but I can
assure you they are very different.

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Then there is ceramic which is quite new on the market. This is what we would suggest for both
beginner and experienced user alike. They are light, create less dust and do not cause the
burning that the tungsten carbide or diamond bits can cause unless you hold it on the one spot
for way too long.

You need to be careful when selecting your drill bit that it is suitable for you depending on
whether you are left or right handed. Many drill bits only cater for right handed people, but the
newer ones are now being made for either right or left handed people.
So you have single cut which can only be used one way, but you can get them for a right or left
handed person.

Or you can get cross cut which means the burrs/teeth cut across each other and they can be
used in either forward or reverse by both right or left handed people, so ultimately this would be
the best one to get.

The courser the drill bit the larger the dust particles will be, the finer the drill bit the more
powdery the dust particles will be.
Also the courser the drill bit the higher the RPMs will need to be to keep the drill bit running
smoothly over the product, if it is too slow the burrs/teeth can get stuck in the product and rip out
chunks instead of removing it evenly.

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SPEED SETTINGS WHEN USING YOUR DRILL
You will need to get a drill that goes up to at least 25,000 to 30,000 RPM. RPM or revs per
minute is how many times the drill bit rotates in one minute.
If your drill is not at least 25,000 RPM it will either slow down or stop completely once any
pressure is put on it when you touch it to the nail. For this reason battery operated or very low
RPM drills are not suitable for nail enhancement work.
It is very important when you first start using the drill you need to start at a low speed, and work
up as you get confident.
There are different speeds for different bits and different grits but for the purpose of this course
we will be working only with medium and course sanding bands and fine ceramic safety bit.
The speed (RPM) you will set your drill at will depend on the bit you are using and the job you
are doing.
When using the drill you need to be moving the drill in the OPPOSITE direction to the direction
the bit is spinning.
If you file the nail in the same direction, you will lose control of it and it will just fly straight across
the nail and into the skin causing cuticle and skin damage.
You need to always be cautious with your pressure. If you use less than you think you can
always go over the area again if you need to.
When using your drill you need to anchor your arms and hands so you have total control over
the drill. The elbow of the arm holding the clients hand needs to be resting on the table for
support and you need to have a very firm grip on the finger you are working on. The elbow of
the hand holding the drill needs to be supported on the table and the hand anchored by putting
your little finger or if you feel more comfortable the little finger and ring finger either on the table
or rest it on the fingers on your other hand. They need to be anchored to something.
The drill is then held like a pen between the thumb, pointer finger and middle finger.
See video in module 10
SANDING BANDS:
Before you start working on your client you need to run the top of the sanding band on an old
nail file to remove the sharp edges so you don’t cut your client.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
Before you do any drill work on your client we have to pass you on the hand file. Also
before you do any drill work on your client you need to do a lot of practice on a rubber
hand and you have an exercise that you need to submit for a pass before you can use the
drill on your models.

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CUTICLES:

To clean up around the cuticle and prep the natural nail for the nail enhancement you will use a
medium sanding band at around 4,000 rpm.

Depending on whether you are right or left handed you will set the drill in forward or reverse and
work slowly around the skin line and cuticle edge to remove any excess cuticle from around the
edge of the nail plate. You DO NOT put any pressure on the drill, let it do the work.

See video in module 10

PREP NAIL PLATE:

To slightly etch the nail plate you just work from one side to the other, or one side to the middle
by tickling the nail plate until the shine is gone. If you are working from one side to the middle
you will need to change the direction of the drill when working on the second side, so you are
moving AGAINST the direction of the drill. You will also need to keep your RPMs down to
about 3,000 to 4,000 for this application as well. You will find you will be stopping to change the
direction of the drill quite often. It takes but a second to do.
See video in module 10

BLEND TIPS WITH DRILL

Once you have mastered blending the tips with your hand file, you can try using the e file. You
need to be super careful with this, you file should only be on the plastic tip, so you will only be
using the very end of the sanding band. Do not back and forth like you would with a hand file,
you need to move it along the step of the well in one direction with the same motion as you do
for nail prep, work from one side to the other smoothing the step down and then go back to the
first side and move across blending the well of the tip, repeat until the tip has become invisible,
check regularly to make sure you have not gone through the tip to the natural nail plate. You will
also need to keep your RPMs down to about 3,000 to 4,000 for this application as well, and turn
it up as you get confident.
See video in module 10

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CUTTING BACK FOR MAINTENANCE:

You can also use your sanding bands to cut back when doing a refill or rebalance. For this you
will need a more course grit, usually a 100 grit sanding band. When using the courser grit you
will only use it on the thicker part of the nail enhancement to remove the bulk of the product first,
you will then need to go back to your medium grit to shorten the length, clean up around the
edges and the regrowth line and perfect the shape before application of the new coating. For
this you can put your RPMs up to around 8,000 to 10,000 or even a little higher once you get
confident. OR you can use your fine or medium ceramic safety bit, exactly the same way and
RPM turning it up as you get more confident.
See video in module 10

REMOVE COATING WITH DRILL

To remove polish foil or any other nail art product you just need to run the drill bit down the nail
moving it across a bit each time or from side to middle moving it down the nail, then repeat on
the other side. Any nail coating will come off very easily
See Video in module 10

BUFF & CLEAN UP WITH DRILL

Using a fine sanding band or safety bit gently clean up and smooth around the regrowth line,
shorten and reshape if requested and make sure the product is smooth over the top. Do not
remove too much product, this is just to clean it up for a re colour until the next maintenance.
See video in module 10

FINISH AND REFINE THE NAIL

Using your medium or fine sanding band or safety bit depending on how well you have applied
your product, use long strokes down the nail moving the drill across each time until the top of
the nail is smooth, then go gently around the edges to smooth the sides and cuticle area. Finish
with block buffer
See video in module 10

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REMOVE THE NAIL ENHANCEMENT

Using a fine or medium sanding band or safety bit run the drill bit down the nail moving it across
a bit each time or from side to middle moving it down the nail until you have removed about half
of the product, then wrap and soak for 10 minutes. Remove wraps, scrap any loose product off
with the metal cuticle pusher. If there is a lot of product left repeat the above step.

Once there is only a small amount of product left go back to using your hand file to finish the
removal.

See video in module 10

Once you have perfected the hand filing, and we have given you the go ahead to start
using the e file, we have an exercise to do with the drill before you start using it on your
models. Please make sure you complete and submit the exercise and are confident and
have a good understanding of how to use the drill BEFORE you work on your models.

It is also a good idea if you try it on yourself first so you know exactly what it feels like
when doing it correctly and also what it feels like when NOT doing it correctly.

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 NOTES

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