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ietting the
builders in
 If you want to know how . . .

Building Your Own Home

A practical guide to set up and manage a self-build programme
for your perfect home

The Beginner's Guide to Property Investment

The ultimate handbook for first-time buyers and would-be
property investors

How to be a Property Millionaire

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email: [email protected]
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 Getting the
builders in
How to manage homebuilding and renovation projects

LEONARD SALES ACIOB

howtobooks
Published by How To Content,
A division of How To Books Ltd,
Spring Hill House, Spring Hill Road,
Begbroke, Oxford 0X5 1RX. United Kingdom.
Tel: (01865) 375794. Fax: (01865) 379162.
email: [email protected]
www.howtobooks.co.uk

All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or stored in an

information retrieval system (other than for purposes of review) without the
express permission of the publisher in writing.

The right of Leonard Sales to be identified as the author of this work has
been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and
Patents Act 1988.

© 2006 Leonard Sales

First published in paperback 2004

Second edition 2006
First published in electronic form 2007

ISBN: 978 1 84803 027 5

Cover design by Baseline Arts Ltd, Oxford

Produced for How To Books by Deer Park Productions, Tavistock
Typeset by TW Typesetting, Plymouth, Devon

NOTE: The material contained in this book is set out in good faith for general
guidance and no liability can be accepted for loss or expense incurred as a
result of relying in particular circumstances on statements made in the book.
The laws and regulations are complex and liable to change, and readers
should check the current position with the relevant authorities before making
personal arrangements.
 Contents

Introduction ix
A homebuilding and renovating management book
for the uninitiated ix
Ten golden rules before starting your project xiv
About the author xvii

1 Getting Started 1
Setting out your objectives 1
Setting out your budget 1
Setting out the technical aspects 2
Minimising the initial cost 4
Drawing up a timetable 5
Progress reports 6
Insurance 7
Professional fees 7
Planning permission and scheme design 8
Building regulations 11
Works requiring planning permission/consent 15
Trees 20
Mechanical and electrical 22
Legal requirements 23
Condition schedule 24
Party wall awards 26
Issuing a notice 32

2 Know Your Requirements 35

Drawing up a specification 35
Security on site 44
Health and safety on site 44

v
vi / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

3 Contacting Contractors 54
Contractors and the size of the project 54
Directories 55
Local papers 55
Recommendation 55
Advertising boards 57
The Internet 57
The response to your enquiry 58

4 Establishing Credibility 61
Reference checks 61
Portfolios of work completed 62
Inspecting the company set-up 63
Establishing insurance cover 64
Inspection of equipment 66

5 Obtaining and Agreeing Quotes 67

'Like for like' quotes 67
Breakdown of quote 68
Cost-saving exercises 70
Timescale programme of works 74
Extras and variations 76

6 Starting the Work 82

Contract of agreement 82
Method statement 85
Inspection procedure 89
Site set-up 92

7 Financial Arrangements 96
Valuation of work completed 96
Contingency plans 97
Making payments 98
Bonus/incentive schemes 100
 C O N T E N T S / vii

8 Operation and Maintenance Manuals 102

Operation manuals 102
Maintenance manuals 103
Test certificates 104
Guarantees 104

9 Good Working Relations 109

First meeting with main contractor 109
Site set-up 109
Visitors 111
Site instructions 112
Inspections/quality control 115
Environmental issues 115
Welfare facilities 116
Health and safety issues 117
Site meetings 118
Correspondence 122
Avoiding conflict 122
Site tidiness 123
Photographic records 124

10 Record-keeping 126
Issuing drawings 126
Project file 129
Diary 130
Telephone numbers 131

11 Professional and Site Teams 134

The construction team 134
Responsibilities of site management 135
The design team 142
Index 149
This page intentionally left blank
 Introduction

A Homebuilding and Renovating Management Book

for the Uninitiated
Congratulations! By picking up this book you have
taken the first step towards safeguarding your most
important asset, your property! This is one book which
really will help to give you 'peace of mind'.

This book is aimed at those readers who are planning

to carry out small to medium-sized projects, and will
enable you to control costs and monitor the standard
of workmanship. It must be stressed, however, that
each project is unique and some will require more
planning than others.

Undertaking a new building project can be a daunting

prospect, so I have tried to cover many of the critical
areas related to domestic project management in as few
words as possible, avoiding long and complicated
contractual jargon.

This book raises awareness of the pitfalls to avoid, the

regulations to be met and the best ways to manage

ix
x / G E T T I N G THE BUILDERS IN

works from start to finish. While common sense is a

necessity for any form of management, there are some
procedures that require specific attention, and when it
comes to construction we cannot leave anything to
chance.

We hold certain professionals such as doctors and

solicitors in high regard. The question is - are they
always right? One reason for this level of trust we have
in them is that they are for the most part regulated by
their respective authoritative bodies, and they are also
educated to the required level to provide the advice or
services associated with their field of expertise.

In a similar way most people will rely on the word of

the 'building' professionals. However, when we require
advice or services from companies or people who are
not regulated and who do not hold specific qualifi-
cations, we should put in place some safety precautions
and procedures to ensure that we are protected, as far
as practically possible.

The principles of project management that this book

deals with can be applied to many different situations,
the fundamentals of which we use in our daily lives,
albeit subconsciously. Take, for example, buying food.
Below are some of the questions we might ask and the
decisions we might have to make.
 I N T R O D U C T I O N / xi

What do we need?
When do we need it?
How much do we need?
Where will we get it?
Does the supplier have a good reputation?
How much will it cost?
Will we buy brand names?
Is there an alternative of the same quality but cheaper?
Was it as good as we thought it would be?
What was the service like?
Would we use that supplier again?

Other situations in which these same decisions are

made on a regular basis include:

refuelling the car;

having the car repaired;
buying household goods;
buying luxury items;
buying clothes;
planning holidays;
buying insurance;
buying a second-hand car.

Generally speaking, we are happy to make these

decisions without too much planning, as we know the
end product before we buy it. In comparison, with
major building works the risks are naturally increased.
xii / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

When we are planning to have work carried out in our

homes, there are other factors that need to be considered.
These will be covered in this book and are those elements
that are unique to the domestic construction industry but
which we do not generally give much thought to.

Bringing these to your attention now will help you to

understand the importance of reading through this
book completely before moving on to the first steps of
the planning stages.

Areas to take into consideration include the following:

Your privacy:
- ensuring areas that are off limits are secure.

Security:
- who will be responsible for door keys?
- how will the builder secure holes in walls etc.?
- will the scaffold be alarmed?
- who will monitor visitors?

Safety:
- how will excavations be made secure?

Precautions:
- how will rainwater be redirected?
- what measures will be used for controlling dust etc.?
 I N T R O D U C T I O N / xiii

Insurance:
- are we insured against short-term higher risks?

Emergencies:
- who do we contact in an emergency?

Despite the high level of media attention and regular

stories of disasters surrounding domestic building
projects, most people feel that it will not happen to
them. They are prepared to risk potential difficulties,
such as poor workmanship, security problems and
projects running over budget and time.

Although there are many reputable builders and con-

tractors on the domestic side of the construction
industry, when the market is thriving some may exploit
this situation and charge extortionate rates for carrying
out substandard work.

Most of the aspects covered in this book have had

volumes written about them in their own right. How-
ever, with this step-by-step approach to the fundamen-
tals, all of these elements become easily manageable
which will help to give the reader confidence in their
decision-making. It will also help the client to produce
the information which the builder/contractor will use
to accurately price the work.
xiv / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

All those who use this book will learn cost-saving

exercises and how to relay exactly what is required to
all concerned. However, it must be stressed that, as in
any form of contract, cooperation and discretion is
required from all parties involved.

Ten Golden Rules Before Starting Your Project

1. Study this book from start to finish, and pick out

the elements that are suitable for the size of project
that you are undertaking, and which you feel
comfortable in implementing.

2. Always have any agreement in writing. You may

feel that you want a more legally binding contract
than the examples shown in this book - your
architect or legal representative should be able to
organise this for you.

3. Do remember that it is your money that is being

spent, so you need to be in control at all times and
confident in your decision-making.

4. Set out a plan of action, study it and make changes

where necessary until you are satisfied that you
have covered all aspects.
 I N T R O D U C T I O N / xv

5. If you feel that you are unable to project manage

your own building work, do consider using a
consultant. He should be able to make sufficient
cost-savings to cover at least some of his fees,
depending on the size of the project.

6. Do not pay money in advance.

7. Do remember that some builders may appear to be

professional but may not perform to expectation
when required.

8. Monitoring, inspecting and good communication

will keep you informed and help to avoid any
problems before they arise.

9. Ensure that your insurance company is aware of

building works being carried out.

10. Make sure that the builder or contractor has

sufficient insurance cover.

Whatever project you are preparing to undertake,

planning and good contractual procedures are the key
to success. I wish you every success with your project.
This page intentionally left blank
 About the author
Leonard Sales ACIOB has been in the construction
industry for 30 years, having started at the age of 16
when he left school to work for his father's building
company. He studied various aspects of the industry,
concentrating on carpentry as his main trade.

At the age of 20 he set up his own company, working

mainly in West London for selected clients on prestig-
ious projects. However, due to the recession in the late
1980s, he had to cease trading and decided to become
a site manager for a large organisation in London.

He enrolled in a professional education course in 1989,

attending Chelmsford College of Further Education,
and qualified for his Diploma and Certificate in Site
Management in July 1992. The course of 16 modules
was very comprehensive and included Project Finance
and Cost Control, Contractual Procedures, Legal Re-
sponsibilities, and Health and Safety. This led to a
professional qualification with the Chartered Institute
of Building, a well respected organisation world-wide,

XVII
xviii / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

which proved instrumental in helping him to obtain

positions which enabled him to work on high-profile
projects in London such as the Admiralty and 10
Downing Street and the Middle East, including palaces
in Abu Dhabi and Saudi Arabia, as well as a variety
of other small, medium and large projects in the UK
and overseas.

Since the early 1990s he has worked in middle and

senior management for a variety of companies and has
been involved in many different styles of management.
He has learnt from this experience that those clients
who demand the highest standards and are willing to
work in conjunction with the contractor are the ones
who generally get their projects finished on time and to
budget. He has observed that architects generally do not
want to get involved in overseeing the smaller projects
as this is too time-consuming, and in most cases their
services would be too expensive for the domestic client.

It is with this in mind that he has written this book for

the general public and small businesses. When used
with common sense and confidence, it can assist in the
smooth running of all types of projects, both large and
small. Included in this book are simple-to-follow
management techniques that have been used success-
fully and will suit any project, whether valued at £1,000
or £1,000,000.
 ©

Getting Started

SETTING OUT YOUR OBJECTIVES

Before starting on any kind of building work in your
home or business, you need to know exactly what your
objectives are, the resources that are available to you
and how you are going to achieve those objectives.
You also need to consider whether or not your ideas
are practical and achievable within your anticipated
timescales. Do remember that the planning of any
work, whether it is on a large or small scale, takes time
and patience.

The scale of the project will obviously dictate the

amount of time it will be necessary to spend on the
planning. If you think that your project is too small to
warrant the time spent on reading all of the chapters
and issues in this book read it anyway - you may be
surprised how some of the bigger issues can be scaled
down to help in the smaller projects.

SETTING OUT YOUR BUDGET

Once you are satisfied that your ideas are realistic, you

1
2 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

need to decide on your budget, and check you have the

financial resources to carry them out.

It is important to understand that any decisions that

you make in the planning stages of any home building
or alteration work can have cost implications later on.
These cost implications need not be to your disadvan-
tage. If you study this book and the areas relating to
cost-saving exercises, you may find that you have more
to spend on your furnishings etc.

SETTING OUT THE TECHNICAL ASPECTS

If you have little or no knowledge about the technical
aspects related to your project or the logistical prob-
lems that building work involves, you will need to
contact an architect or specialist designer, depending
on your requirements. For example, any work that
involves alterations to internal or external walls will
require the advice of experienced people.

While builders and contractors will have had experi-

ence in carrying out the work, it is important that you
satisfy yourself in the first place as to whether struc-
tural calculations and drawings will be required.

Architects' and engineers' rates vary, and can run in

excess of £80.00 per hour or a fixed fee as a percentage
of the project. However, if you do not start off on the
 GETTING STARTED / 3

right track, it could cost you much more in the long

run.

For example, if an architect or engineer carries out any

provisional work such as outline proposals, or any
other work on your behalf for an agreed percentage of
the project value, and for some reason the project does
not proceed, his fee may be payable at an hourly rate.
This could soon mount up to a considerable sum if a
full set of working drawings and specifications are
involved.

Architects, engineers and designers will also know

what is required to obtain planning permission (if
needed) and building regulation approval. If the archi-
tect has submitted drawings, calculations and any
other information to the local authority in order to
obtain planning approval/consent, there may also be
additional disbursement costs that you will be liable
for.

It is worth obtaining estimates from the various

professionals before engaging in any form of contract,
as their charges can vary drastically depending on their
workload. Architects and designers are market-led and
in boom times may have many months' work booked
in advance. They will therefore have the upper hand
when negotiating fees, so be patient and shop around.
4 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

Consider speaking to friends and relatives who may

have had similar work carried out on their properties,
as they may be able to point you in the right direction
on a number of aspects of the project.

Do remember though that it is you who will be

employing the various different people. So you must
feel comfortable about them and carry out the refer-
ence checks where necessary.

MINIMISING THE INITIAL COST

You can minimise the initial costs by putting together
as much information as possible. This will cut down on
the amount of time the professionals would normally
spend in extracting your ideas from you, and is where
speaking to other people who have had similar work
carried out may be of help.

It is easy enough to explain to someone what you want

but, as the saying goes, 'a picture paints a thousand
words'. Basic sketches can help to avoid misunderstan-
dings and will help to avoid redrawing plans and
incurring costs for abortive work. You may like ideas
that you have seen in magazines or photographs -
these are all visual aids that will assist in the initial
concept of what you are proposing.

This will also help to speed the whole process up, as

some professionals will use the design element as a
 GETTING STARTED / 5

pretext for taking their time to provide drawings,

particularly if they have a heavy workload. Remember,
though, from conception to on-site development may
take more time than the building process itself - this is
generally the case with small domestic projects.

DRAWING UP A TIMETABLE
It is advisable to draw up a timetable of things to be
done which will help you to keep track of the dates for
issuing information etc. It does not matter that you
don't know the actual timing of some of these el-
ements, but it will give you a format to work with
which will soon become a workable programme that
you can adjust as the known delivery dates become
apparent.

As you can see from the sample planning programme

shown in Figure 1.1, by entering dates for certain
elements you should start getting actual feedback from
the service providers involved which will in turn help
you with the adjustments required to make your
planning programme more accurate.

Your service providers should be able to give you

actual dates or advise you why your planned dates are
not achievable. If you start off in this manner, the
service providers will see that you expect the dates they
supply will be realised.
6 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

ACTIVITY

Month

Week commencing
Formulate ideas and sketches

Contact architects for quotes

Draw up preliminary drawings

Gain outline planning approval

Wait for planning approval

Draw up full specification

Contact builders for quotes

Assess quotes

Negotiate and agree on quote

Confirm contract details

Start date

Completion date

Send off guarantee documents

Figure 1.1 Sample planning programme

You can also see from this example that this type of
programme will assist in the preparation of documents etc.

(Note, however, that these timescales are not based on

actual timings. The response times of local authorities
will vary, as will those of all other service providers.)

PROGRESS REPORTS
Do not be afraid to ask your architect or designer etc.
to keep you informed of progress on a regular basis.
 GETTING STARTED / 7

Unless the project has been submitted and you are

awaiting approval, it would not be unreasonable to
request a weekly update.

One of the most frustrating elements of home building

and renovating is when you are not kept fully informed
of what stage certain elements are at. This includes the
input from professionals.

INSURANCE
It should be noted that all professional consultants are
required by their governing body to carry professional
indemnity insurance to cover any claims made against
them for failures in their services/designs. It is therefore
important to have any agreement in writing and to
ensure that you have read and understood the small
print (if applicable). We will cover the building con-
tractor's legal contract in Chapter 6.

Non-qualified designers (one-man bands) may be less

expensive, but may not always be competent and could
prove difficult or impossible to recover money from if
sued. Whoever you decide to use for your professional
work, ensure that you obtain or at least see a copy of
their professional indemnity insurance.

PROFESSIONAL FEES
As far as professional fees are concerned, you should
look at paying around 5-15 per cent of your budget
8 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

(construction costs), depending on the complexity and

value of the project. You may find that in the case of
a project which is technically difficult, requiring a high
level of structural calculations, these percentages are
exceeded.

PLANNING PERMISSION AND SCHEME DESIGN

Once you have decided what your requirements are,
and have furnished your architect/designer with suffi-
cient information, they will produce drawings based on
your ideas. These should also take into account the
planning authority's criteria.

Most projects will require planning permission al-

though minor domestic works such as porches, conser-
vatories etc. may be approved as 'permitted
development' (not requiring a planning application) by
the local authority. But this should always be checked
with them as the rules are complex, and it is always
sensible to obtain written confirmation if this is the
case.

Planning guidelines
While the local authority has planning guidelines
(referred to as the local plan), these are open to
interpretation. Even if the planning officer is in favour
of the scheme, it can often be refused by the planning
committee.
 GETTING STARTED / 9

Planning permission has to be obtained for most major

building works. The permission deals with the issues
surrounding the design, e.g. use and appearance (plans
and elevation), which should not be confused with the
construction drawings, e.g. sections, details, etc.

Impact of the scheme

The planning authority will consider the general im-
pact that the development will have on the site and
surrounding area. In the case of the work being of a
commercial nature, environmental issues will be con-
sidered, particularly if there are specified hazards such
as dust, noise, chemicals, etc.

Not only will they consult with adjoining neigh-

bours but they may also obtain advice/consent from
other departments such as Highways, Environmental
Health or other organisations such as English
Heritage.

Notification of the scheme

Part of the planning process involves notifying/adver-
tising the development. The basic details should be
advertised in the local press or by means of the 'yellow'
site notice displayed on the site boundary. This allows
interested parties 21 days to inspect the deposited plans
and make comments to the planning departments.
10 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

Timing of consent
Obtaining planning consent can be a lengthy process
and will take at least 6-8 weeks although in practice it
is more like 12-16 weeks for simple projects.

With this in mind it is, therefore, very important to

consider the time of year that you would prefer to have
the work carried out. If, for example, the work requires
your home to be exposed to the elements and, due to
financial constraints, you have decided not to have a
fully covered scaffold over the property, it would
make more sense to try to have the work carried out
when it is less likely to be freezing cold or wet for long
periods.

Works lacking consent

It is a legal requirement to obtain planning consent (if
needed) and works started without planning approval
can be stopped by an injunction from the local
authority. You may also incur fines, and an order to
reinstate any work previously carried out appertaining
to the injunction.

Duration of consent
Normally planning permission (consent) lasts for five
years. This means you have five years in which to start
the work.
 G E T T I N G S T A R T E D / 11

BUILDING REGULATIONS
The building regulations are completely different from
local authority planning approval and are concerned
with the construction of the building and its services.
They evolved following the Great Fire of London and
were used to protect the public from dangerous
building construction and to improve public hygiene,
e.g. foul drainage etc.

Due to new technology, and new and improved

methods of construction, the building regulations con-
tinue to grow in size and complexity and cover most
areas of construction. New areas being considered are
the use of recycled building materials/products (conser-
vation of natural resources).

Building regulations are a set of minimum require-

ments, which have been designed to secure the health,
safety and welfare of people in and around buildings.
The building regulations are made under powers given
in Schedule 1 of The Building Act 1984, by the
Secretary of State.

The fourteen 'parts' of Schedule 1 to the Building Act

are:

A Structure
B Fire Safety
12 / GETTING THE BUILDERS IN

C Site preparation and resistance to contaminants

and moisture
D Toxic substances
E Resistance to the passage of sound
F Ventilation
G Hygiene
H Drainage and waste disposal
J Combustion appliances and fuel storage systems
K Protection from falling, collision and impact
L Conservation of fuel and power
M Access to and use of buildings
N Glazing - safety in relation to impact, opening and
cleaning
P Electrical safety

To gain a clearer understanding of these regulations

for specific areas, you can access the Office of the
Deputy Prime Minister's (ODPM) website,
www.odpm.gov.uk. The ODPM's responsibilities for
local and regional government including, fire, housing,
planning, estate regeneration, social exclusion and
neighbourhood renewal, puts the Office at the heart of
the Government's ambition to improve sustainable
communities for all.

Understanding your requirements

Complying with the building regulations is different
from obtaining planning permission for your work.
 GETTING STARTED /13

Similarly, obtaining planning permission is different

from taking action to ensure that your work complies
with the building regulations.

Researching details of building regulations will help

you to understand what is required on your specific
project. Your local authority department that deals
with building control issues should be able to provide
you with the information that you require. Alterna-
tively, the department should be able to provide you
with the details of where to obtain specific information.

Your architect will know which regulations are re-

quired for your project and will incorporate them in
the drawings, both in writing and where necessary in
detailed drawings.

Inspection of building regulations

The regulations are inspected by BCOs (building
control officers) who ensure the plans that have been
approved are being followed.

It is the responsibility of the builder to inform the BCO

when each of the regulations needs to be inspected. It
is advisable to find out what inspections are likely to
be carried out on your project, and ask the builder/
contractor to provide you with written evidence that
the inspection took place. The BCO may sign a
14 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

visitor's book, but they will not usually sign to say that
something has been inspected and passed.

This is due to the fact that, although an inspection may

have been carried out and the element being inspected
did not fail the inspection, there will be a final
inspection at the end of the project. Elements such as
drainage, glass, manholes and other aspects need to be
inspected and passed once the project is complete.

The elements that need to be inspected at various

stages differ but they include:

excavations;
foundations;
membranes (damp proof courses etc.);
drainage;
structural elements etc.

Responsibility for defective work

While the works are inspected by the BCO, it should
be noted that the BCO cannot be held responsible for
defective work. The responsibility for this lies with the
designer or builder.

Although the BCO must be invited to inspect the work

at various stages they have no obligation to do so, and
can decide to inspect elements later on in the project if
 G E T T I N G S T A R T E D / 15

they desire. This ensures that the builder/contractor is

aware that at all times the work must reach the
minimum standards for design and construction.

If at some stage the BCO inspects work that has been

covered up such as drainage, and it subsequently fails
the inspection, it will be the responsibility of the
builder/contractor to rectify the work at his own
expense.

WORKS REQUIRING PLANNING PERMISSION/CONSENT

Within the domestic side of the construction industry
there are five main categories of works that may
require planning permission and building regulations
consent (approval):

extensions;
loft conversions;
garages;
major internal alterations;
major external work.

Note: Even replacement windows are covered by the

building regulations, although some window manufac-
turers/suppliers are licensed to undertake these works
without the need for a formal application to the local
authority.
16 / G E T T I N G THE B U I L D E R S IN

Alterations to the building structure or services require

building regulation approval, although small building
works can often be carried out using a 'building notice'
application requiring limited information or plans.
Often the building inspector will just visit the site to
discuss and inspect the works.

Extensions
To have an extension built you will require scaled
drawings. These will need to be drawn up by an
architect or similar qualified person. You will need
to apply for planning permission and have the appro-
val of your local planning authority. The local plann-
ing office can be contacted via your local council
offices.

As explained earlier, having drawings prepared and

approved can be a long drawn-out affair so be mindful
of this from the outset. From the conception of a
project to actually starting work can vary from six
weeks to six months, depending on its size and nature.
In some cases, such as listed buildings, this may be
longer and could even be rejected for a variety of
reasons.

Many people set out to have an extension built

expecting everything to be 100 per cent complete
within four or five months. However, to ensure that
Exploring the Variety of Random
Documents with Different Content
port, although the Captain General had said he would wait there until
he saw our message, and knew in what country we had arrived. And
we did not go more than half a league from where we departed from,
and then rested at a dry channel, which had no water except in a few
little pools. We held the midday rest here on account of the great
drought of the land: for further on we should not have water, and the
heat was very great. We all carried our gourds, and leather ewers,
and waterskins of the country, with water. In this dry river bed there
were many trees of different species, amongst which were jujube
trees, and other trees without fruit. Whilst we were thus resting at the
river bed there came to us a gentleman named Frey Mazqual, which
in our tongue means servant of the cross. He in his blackness was a
gentleman, and said he was a brother-in-law of the Barnagais, a
brother of his wife. Before he reached us he dismounted, because
such is their custom, and they esteem it a courtesy. The ambassador
Mattheus, hearing of his arrival, said he was a robber, and that he
came to rob us and told us to take up arms: and he Mattheus took
his sword, and put a helmet on his head. Frey Mazqual, seeing this
tumult, sent to ask leave to come up to us. Mattheus was still
doubtful, and withal he came up to us like a well born man, well
educated, and courteous. This gentleman had a very good led horse
and a mule on which he came, and four men on foot.

Cap. vii.—How Mattheus made us leave the road, and travel through
the mountain in a dry river bed.
We departed from this resting place all together, with many other
people who had been resting there; and this gentleman went with us
on his mule, leading his horse: and he approached the ambassador,
Don Rodrigo, and caused the interpreter we had with us to
approach, and they went for a good distance talking and conversing.
He was in his speech, conversation, questions, and answers, a well
informed and courteous man, and the ambassador Mattheus could
not bear him, saying that he was a robber. And while we were going
by a very good wide and flat road, by which were travelling all the
people who had rested with us at the rest, and many others who
were travelling behind, Mattheus, who was in front, left this road and
entered some bushes and hills without any road, and made the
camels go that way, and all of us with them, saying that he knew the
country better than anyone else, and that we should follow him.
When Frey Mazqual saw this he said that we were out of any road,
and that he did not know why that man did this. We all began to cry
out at him, because he was taking us through the rough ground to
lose and break what we carried with us, leaving the highroads, and
that we were travelling where the wolves went. Mattheus, perceiving
our outcry, and that we were all against him, took a turn, and we
went round some mountains to the road, more than two leagues
before reaching it. And before we reached it Mattheus had a fainting
fit, during which we thought he was dead for more than an hour.
When he came to himself we put him on a mule, and two men on
each side to assist him. So we went, all accompanying and looking
after him, and Frey Mazqual with us, until we arrived at the road,
which was a long way off. When we reached it we found a very large
cafila of camels and many people who were coming to Arquiquo,
because they only travel in cafilas for fear of robbers. These were all
amazed at the road we had travelled. We all slept at a hill where
there was water and a certain place for cafilas to halt at, and Frey
Mazqual also. We all slept, we and the two cafilas keeping good
watch all night. From here we set out next morning, always travelling
by dry river beds, and on either side very high mountain ridges, with
large woods of various kinds of trees, most of them without fruit: for
among them are some very large trees which give a fruit which they
call tamarinds, like clusters of grapes, which are much prized by the
Moors, for they make vinegar with them, and sell them in the
markets like dried raisins. The dry channels and road by which we
went showed very deep clefts, which are made by the thunder
storms: they do not much impede travelling, as they told us, and as
we afterwards saw similar ones. All that is necessary is to turn aside
and wait for two hours the overflow of the storm, they then set out
travelling again. However great these rivers may be with the waters
of these storms, as soon as they issue forth from the mountains and
reach the plains, they immediately spread out and are absorbed, and
do not reach the sea: and we could not learn that any river of
Ethiopia enters into the Red sea, all waste away when they come to
the flat plains. In these mountains and ridges there are many
animals of various kinds, such as lions, elephants, tigers, ounces,
wolves, boars, stags, deer,[7] and all other kinds which can be
named in the world, except two which I never saw nor heard tell that
there are any of them here, bears and rabbits. There are birds of all
kinds that can be named, both of those known to us and of those not
known, great and small: two kinds of birds I did not see nor hear say
that there are, these are magpies and cuckoos; the other herbs of
these mountains and rivers are basil and odorous herbs.

Cap. viii.—How Mattheus again took us out of the road, and made us
go to the monastery of Bisam.
When it was the hour for resting ourselves, Mattheus was still
determined on taking us out of the high road, and taking us to the
monastery of Bisam, through mountain ridges and bushes,[8] and we
took counsel with frey Mazqual, who told us that the road to the
monastery was such that baggage could not go there on men’s
backs, and that the road we were leaving was the high road by which
travelled the caravans of Christians and Moors, where no one did
them any harm, and that still less would they do harm to us who
were travelling in the service of God and of Prester John.
Nevertheless, we followed the will and fancy of Mattheus. At the halt,
[9] where we slept, there were great altercations as to the said
travelling, and as to whether we should turn back to the high road
which we had left. Seeing this, Mattheus begged of me to entreat the
ambassador Don Rodrigo and all the others to be pleased to go to
the monastery of Bisam, because it was of great importance to him,
and that he would not remain there more than six or seven days (he
remained there for ever, for he died there); and that when those
seven or eight days were passed, in which he would trade in what
belonged to him, we should be welcome to go on our road. At my
request all determined to do his wish, since it was important to him,
saying that we would remain at a village at the foot of the monastery.
We departed from this halt by much more precipitous ground and
channels than those of the day before, and larger woods. We on foot
and the mules unridden in front of us, we could not travel; the camels
shrieked as though sin was laying hold of them. It seemed to all that
Mattheus was bringing us here to kill us; and all turned upon me
because I had done it. There was nothing for it but to call on God, for
sins were going about in those woods: at midday the wild animals
were innumerable and had little fear of people. Withal we went
forward, and began to meet with country people who kept fields of
Indian corn, and who come from a distance to sow these lands and
rocky ridges which are among these mountains: there are also in
these parts very beautiful flocks, such as cows and goats. The
people that we found here are almost naked, so that all they had
showed, and they were very black. These people were Christians,
and the women wore a little more covering, but it was very little.
Going a little further in another forest which we could not pass on
foot, and the camels unladen, there came to us six or seven friars of
the monastery of Bisam, among whom were four or five very old
men, and one more so than all the rest, to whom all showed great
reverence, kissing his hand. We did the same, because Mattheus
told us that he was a bishop; afterwards we learned that he was not
a bishop, but his title was David, which means guardian, and
besides, in the monastery there is another above him, whom they
call Abba, which means father: and this father is like a provincial.
From their age and from their being thin and dry like wood, they
appear to be men of holy life. They go into the forests collecting their
millet, both that grown by their own labour, and the produce of the
dues paid to them by those who sow in these mountains and forests.
The clothes which they wear are old yellow cotton stuffs, and they go
barefooted. From this place we went forward until the camels had
taken rest, and in the space of a quarter of a league we arrived at
the foot of a tree with all our baggage, and Mattheus with his, and
frey Mazqual with us, also the friars, particularly the old ones, were
there with us: and the oldest, whom Mattheus called a Bishop, gave
us a cow, which we at once killed for supper. We were here in doubt
by what way we could get out, and as there was no help for it we all
slept here together, ambassadors, friars and frey Mazqual, ready to
start.

Cap. ix.—How we said mass here, and Frey Mazqual separated from
us, and we went to a monastery where our people fell sick.
The following day was Holy Cross of May; we said mass at the
foot of a tree in honour of the true cross, that it might please to direct
us well, entreating our Portuguese to make this petition with much
devotion to our Lord, that like as He had opened a way to Saint
Helena to find it, so He would open a road for our salvation which we
saw to be so closed up. Mass being ended we dined, and the
ambassador Mattheus ordered his baggage to be loaded on the
backs of negroes, and taken to a small monastery which was half a
league from where we were, and they name the patron of it St.
Michael, and they call the site of the monastery Dise. Joam Escolar,
the clerk of the Embassy, and I, went with this baggage on foot, as it
was not ground or a road fit for mules. We went to see what country
it was there, and whether we should go to that monastery, or
whether we should turn back. Here frey Mazqual departed from us.
With the journey we made, the clerk and I, we were almost dead
when we arrived at the monastery, both from the precipitous path
and steep ascent, and the great heat. After having taken rest, and
seen the said monastery, and seen that it had buildings in which to
lodge our goods, and ourselves also, the clerk returned to the
company, and I remained at the monastery. On the following day,
fourth of May, all our people came with the goods we were bringing
with us, and which had remained at the foot of this mountain, all
being carried on the backs of negroes. And on the night on which our
people remained and slept there, Satan did not cease from weaving
his wiles, and caused strife to arise among our people, and this on
account of the ambassador’s carrying out that which he had to do,
and ought to do for the service of God and the King, and for the
safety of our lives and honour: and one said that there were men in
the company who were not going to do all that seemed fit to him,
upon this they came to using their spears. God be praised that no
one was wounded. As soon as we were all at the monastery I made
them good friends, blaming them for using such words, since he was
our captain, and that which was for the service of God and the King
was an advantage to us all, and that we ought not to do anything
without mature deliberation. We lodged in this monastery of St.
Michael under the impression that we should depart at the end of
seven or eight days, as Mattheus had said, and they gave us very
good lodgings. Upon this Mattheus came and told us that he had
written to the court of Prester John, and to Queen Helena, and to the
patriarch, and that the answer could not come in less than forty days,
and that we could not depart without this answer, because from there
mules had to be sent for us and for the baggage. And he did not stop
at this, but went on to say that the winter was beginning, which
would last three months, and that we could not travel during that
time, and that we should buy provisions for the winter. Besides, he
said that we should wait for the Bishop of Bisam, who was coming
from the court, and that he would give us equipment. This one that
he called Bishop is not one, but is the Abba or provincial of Bisam. In
this matter of the winter, and the coming of this provincial, the friars
of this monastery concerted with Mattheus, and they did not lie, for
nobody in this country travels for three months, that is, from the
middle of June, July, August, to middle of September, and the winter
is general: also as to the coming of him they called Bishop, he did
not delay much. A few days after our arrival the people fell sick, both
the Portuguese and also our slaves, few or none remained who were
not affected, and many in danger of death from much bloodletting
and purging. Among the first mestre Joam fell sick, and we had no
other remedy. The Lord was pleased that purging and bloodletting
came to him of itself, and he regained his health. After that the
sickness attacked others with all its force, among them the
ambassador Mattheus fell sick, and many remedies were used for
him. And thinking that he was already well, and as though delighted
and pleased, he ordered his baggage to be got ready and sent to a
village of Bisam named Jangargara, which is half way between this
monastery and Bisam. In that village are friars of the said monastery,
who keep their cows there, and there are many good houses in it. He
had his baggage taken there, and went with it, and two days after his
arrival he sent to call the mestre, for he had fallen ill again. He left all
the sick people and went, and we did not wait long after him, the
ambassador, Don Rodrigo, and I, but went to visit him, and we found
him very suffering. Don Rodrigo returned, and I remained with him
three days, and I confessed him and gave him the sacraments, and
at the end of the three days he died, on the 23rd of May 1520; and
he made his will in the Portuguese language by means of mestre
Francisco Gonzalves, his spiritual father, and also in the Abyssinian
language by a friar of the said monastery. As soon as he was dead
there came thither at once the ambassador, and Jorge d’Abreu, and
Joam Escolar the clerk, and a great number of the friars of Bisam.
We took him with great honour to bury him at the said monastery,
and did the office for the dead after our custom, and the friars after
their custom. In the same night that Mattheus died, Pereira, servant
of Don Rodrigo, died. When the burial of Mattheus was done, the
ambassador, Don Rodrigo, and Jorge d’Abreu, and Joam Escolar,
clerk, and certain friars of the monastery, returned to the village
where Mattheus died, and where his goods remained. And it was
intended to make an inventory of his goods, in order that they should
be correctly sent to the person whom he named, by Francisco
Mattheus, his servant, whom the King of Portugal, our Sovereign,
had given him and had set free, because before he was a Moorish
slave, and the goods were in his keeping. The said Francisco
Mattheus took it into his head not to choose that the inventory should
be made: and the friars for their part hoping to get a share of the
goods. Seeing this, Don Rodrigo left them to their devices and came
away in peace; and Francisco Mattheus and the friars took these
goods to the monastery of Bisam, and thence sent them to the court
of the Prester for them to be given to the Queen Helena, to whom
he, Mattheus, ordered them to be given.

Cap. x.—How Don Rodrigo sent to ask the Barnagais for equipment
for his departure.
 As we were thus without any remedy, and had been waiting for a
month and no message came, and we did not know what to do, and
Mattheus having died, we determined on sending to ask the
Barnagais to send us some equipment for our departure, so that we
might not remain here for our destruction. Knowing this the friars
grieved much at it, and pressed Don Rodrigo not to send, and to wait
for the arrival of the said provincial, as he would be at the monastery
within ten days, and that if he did not come that they would provide
the means for our departure. And because these people are
unconfiding they would not trust in the ambassador, although he had
promised it them; and they took an oath from all of us on a crucifix
that we would wait for the said ten days, and they also swore to fulfil
that which they had promised. And in order that we might not be
disappointed on one side or the other, or in case both should take
effect, we might choose the best, Don Rodrigo arranged to send
Joam Gonzalves, interpreter and factor, and Manoel de Mares and
two other Portuguese to the Barnagais to ask him to remember the
oath which he swore and promised to the Captain General of the
King of Portugal, which was to favour and take into his keeping the
affairs of the King, and to be pleased to give us an equipment for our
travelling. When the ten days were ended the factor sent one of the
Portuguese that went with him with a good message, and with him
came a man from the Barnagais saying that he came to give us oxen
for the baggage and mules for ourselves. On the part of the friars
nothing came.

Cap. xi.—Of the fashion and situation of the monasteries and their
customs, first this of St. Michael.
The manner of these monasteries as to their sites and customs:
all are situated on the greatest and highest cliffs, or the deepest they
can find. This one of St. Michael is situated on a very steep rock at
the foot of another very high rock, where no one can ascend. The
stone of which these rocks consist is of the grain of the walls of the
port of Portugal.[10] They are very great rocks. The land around
these rocks is all covered with very great forests, and besides wild
olive trees and high grass between them, in which there is much
basil. The trees which are not wild olive trees are not trees known to
us; all are without fruit. In the narrow valleys which belong to this
monastery there are orange trees, lemon trees, citron trees, pear
trees and fig trees of all kinds, both of Portugal and India; peach
trees, cabbages, coriander, cardamine, wormwood,[11] myrtle and
other sweet-smelling and medicinal herbs, all ill profited by because
they are not good working men: and the earth produces these like
wild plants, and it would produce whatever was planted and sown in
it. The monastery house looks quite like a church building,
constructed like ours. It has around it a circuit like a cloister, covered
above in the same manner as the body of the monastery. It has three
entrances, as ours are, one principal one, and two side ones. The
roof of the church and of its cloisters is of wild straw, which lasts a
man’s life: the body of the church is built with naves very well
constructed, and their arches are very well closed; all appears to be
vaulted. The church has a chancel and a transept, in the centre
transept are curtains from end to end; and there are other curtains
before the side doors, from wall to wall. They are curtains of silk: the
entrance through these curtains is in three places, they are open in
the middle, and they reach one to another, also they can be entered
close to the walls. In the said three entrances there are little bells
suspended to the curtains themselves, and nobody can enter by any
part without these bells ringing. Here there is not more than one
altar, which is in the chancel: this has a stand on four props, and the
altar reaches to these four props. This stand is covered over above
as though with a vault, and there is an altar stone which they call
tabuto. Upon this altar stone there is a basin of copper, very large
and flat below, and with low sides. This basin also reaches to the
supports of the stand, which are disposed in a square. Within this
large basin there is another smaller one. This stand has curtains
hanging down from it to the ground, that is, at the back and sides,
which screen the altar, except that in front it is open. One can go all
round the altar. The bells are of stone, and in this manner: long thin
stones, suspended by cords passed through them, and they strike
them with sticks made for the purpose, and they make a sound as of
cracked bells heard at a distance. Also at festivals they take the
basins from the altar and strike them with sticks, and they help to
make a sound. They have also other iron bells, not round, but with
two sides, they have a clapper which strikes first on one side and
then on the other, and it makes a noise as of helving a mattock. They
also have other small ill-made bells, which they carry in their hands
at processions, and they ring the whole of them at the festivals. On
other days the bells of stones and iron are used. In all churches and
monasteries they ring for matins two hours before dawn. They say
the prayers by heart and without light, except in the lamps or
chandeliers, for they have not got lamps. They burn butter in these
chandeliers, for they have not got oil. They pray or chaunt very loud,
without art of singing, and they do not recite (alternate) verses, but
all sing straight on. Their prayers are psalms, and on feast days
besides psalms they recite prose, according as the feast is so is the
prose. They always stand in the churches; at matins they only say
one single lesson: this is said by a priest or a friar, rather shouted
than intoned, and he reads this lesson before the principal entrance.
When this lesson is finished, on Saturdays, Sundays, and feast
days, they make a procession with four or five crosses on their
poles, and a cross not so much raised as carried like a stick in the
left hand, because they carry a thurible in the right hand, since as
many as carry a cross carry a thurible, there are always as many
thuribles as crosses. They wear some silk cloaks, not well made,
because they are not wider than the width of a piece of damask, or
other silk from top to bottom. Before the breast, a cross piece to the
flanks on each side, of any other stuff and of any colour, even though
it should not match the principal part, and of this principal part a
good ell hangs behind dragging on the ground. They make this
procession through the circuit, which is like a cloister. This being
ended, on the said Saturdays, Sundays, and feasts, he who has to
say mass enters with two others into the chancel; they bring out an
effigy of Our Lady, which they have in ancient pictures in all churches
and monasteries. He who has to say mass places himself in the
centre of the transept with his face towards the principal entrance,
and the image in his hands held before his breast: and those who
stand by his sides hold lighted candles in their hands, and all the
others commence a chaunt like prose, and all walk, shouting and
leaping as if dancing[12] they hold hands and go round, before the
image,[13] and at the sound of that chaunt or prose which they sing,
they also ring the little bells and sound the cymbals to the same
tune. Each time that they pass before the image they make a great
reverence to it. Certainly it has a good appearance and causes
devotion, from being a thing done for the praise of the Lord God.
There also proceed crosses and thuribles in this feast as in the
procession. When this is ended, which lasts a good while, they put
by the picture and go to a small building which is on the North side,
and of the gospel according to our mass; and outside the covered
circuit, where they make the bread which they call corbom, and we
hostia. They carry cross, thurible, and bell, and bring thence the
bread of wheat flour, and without leaven, made at that moment, very
white and nice, of the size and roundness of a patena, in this
monastery in which are few people. In other monasteries and
churches, where there are many people, they make large loaves,
and many of them according to the people, because all are
communicants who go to the church. According to the width of the
bread they make its thickness, from half a finger’s breadth to an inch,
or larger. They bring this loaf in a small vase, which is one of those
of the altar, covered with a cloth, and with the cross and thurible,
sounding a bell. Behind the church, that is, behind the chancel,[14] in
that circuit which is like a cloister, nobody must remain unless he
were in holy orders, and all the others must be before the principal
entrance in another large circuit, which all the churches have; for
near this, which is like a cloister, anybody who likes may stand.
Whilst bringing the bread, as many as are in the church or in its
circuit, when they hear the bell, bow their heads until the bell is
silent, which is when they place the wafer on the altar with the small
vase in which they brought it. They place this vase in the other larger
one, and cover the bread with a dark cloth, after the fashion of a
corporale. They have a silver chalice in this monastery, and so in all
honourable churches and monasteries there are silver chalices,
some have them of gold: in poor churches, which they call churches
of Balgues, that is, of rustics, there are copper chalices. The vases
are very wide and ill made, and they have not got patenas. They put
into the chalice wine of raisins, in large quantities, because as many
as partake of the communion of the body also partake of the blood.
He who has to say mass begins it with Hallelujah in a loud voice,
rather shouted than sung; all respond and continue the chaunt. He of
the mass is silent and continues his benedictions, which he does
with his small cross, which he holds in his hand. Those who are
outside sing as well as those who are inside the church and cloister,
up to a certain distance. Here one of those who is at the altar, takes
a book and goes to read the epistle at the principal door of the
church. When it is ended, he who read it at once begins a chaunt as
a response; those who are at the altar, or in the church, follow him.
This ended, he who says the mass takes a book from the altar; and
gives it to him who has to read the gospel, and he bows his head
and begs a blessing. After he has received it he goes to the place
where the epistle was read, and with him two others, one with a
cross and thurible, the other with a bell. They read the gospel, and
likewise the epistle, fast and loud, as much so as the tongue can
speak and the voice be raised. Returning to the altar, on the way
another chaunt commences, and those that accompany them join in
it. On reaching the altar they give the book to kiss to him who says
the mass, and they deposit the book in its place; because at the altar
they say nothing from a book. Then he who says mass takes the
thurible, or they give it into his hand, and he incenses the altar above
it, and then takes several turns round it, giving incense. When these
circuits and incensing are ended, he turns to the altar and gives
many blessings with the cross, and then uncovers the bread which
was covered up, and which is for the sacrament: they take it with
both hands, and let go the right hand and it remains in the left hand:
with the thumb of the right hand he makes five marks like little
hollows, that is to say, one in the upper part, one in the middle,
another at the lower part, another on the left, and another on the
right hand, and then he consecrates in his language, and with our
own very words, and does not elevate it. He does as much with the
chalice, and says over it our own very words, in his language: and
again covers it, and takes the sacrament of the bread in his hands
and divides it in the middle, and of the part which remains in his left
hand, from the top of it he takes a very small portion, and places the
other pieces one upon another. The priest takes this small portion for
himself, and also takes a portion of the sacrament of the blood. After
that he takes the vase with the sacrament covered up and gives it to
him who read the gospel, and likewise takes the chalice with the
sacrament and gives it to him who read the epistle. He then
administers the communion to the priests who are near the altar,
taking the sacrament in very small portions from the vase which the
deacon holds in his right hand, and as often as he administers it the
sub-deacon takes of the blood with a spoon of gold, or silver, or
copper, according to the church, and gives a very small quantity to
the person who has received the body. There is also on one side
another priest with a ewer of holy water, and the person who has
received the communion puts out the palm of his hand and he pours
some of that holy water, and with it he washes his mouth and
swallows it. This being done all go to the altar with this sacrament
before the first curtain, and in this manner they give the communion
to those that are there, and thence to those who are at the other
curtain, and thence to the secular people who are at the principal
door, both men and women, if it is a church to which women come.
At the giving of the communion, and likewise at all the offices of the
church, all are standing up. When they come to receive the
communion, all come with their hands raised before their shoulders,
and the palms forward. As soon as each one receives the sacrament
of the blood he takes the said water as has been said, and so
generally as many as are communicants. Before mass they wash
their hands with the water which is in all the churches and
monasteries. The priest who said the mass, and those who stood
with him at the altar, when the communion is ended, return to the
altar, and wash the vase in which the sacrament was, with the water
which remains in the ewer, which they say is blessed, this water they
pour into the chalice, and the priest who said mass takes it all. This
done, one of these ministers of the altar takes a cross and a bell,
and beginning a low chaunt goes to the principal entrance, where the
epistle and gospel were read, and the administering the communion
ended, and as many as are in the church, and outside of it, bow their
heads, and go away in peace. They say this is the blessing, without
this no one goes away. On Saturdays and Sundays, and feast days,
in all the churches and monasteries, blessed bread is distributed.
The method which they have in this small monastery, which will not
have more than 20 or 25 friars, is that which is followed in all the
monasteries and churches, great and small. The office of the mass,
exclusive of the processions, is short; and the mass on week days is
quickly finished.

Cap. xii.—Where and how the bread of the Sacrament is made, and of
a Procession they made, and of the pomp with which the mass is
said, and of entering into the church.
The making of this sacramental bread is in this manner. The
building in which it is made, in all churches and monasteries, is, as I
said above, on the gospel side, outside of the church and its circuit,
which is like a cloister, in the space contained by the other outer
circuit, which is not covered in, which space serves for a churchyard.
All the churches and monasteries have such a building, and it does
not contain anything else except what is requisite for this purpose;
that is to say, a mortar for pounding wheat, a machine for making
very clean flour, and such as is required for such a purpose, for they
do not prepare this sacrament from flour or wheat on which women
have laid their hands. They have pots for preparing the paste, which
they make thicker than ours. They have a furnace, as for distilling
water, and upon it a plate of iron, and in some churches of copper,
and in other poor churches of clay. This plate is round and of a good
size; they place fire underneath it, and when it is hot clean it with a
waxed cloth, pour on it a portion of paste, and spread it out with a
wooden spoon of such size as they intend to make the bread, and
they make it very round. When it is set they take it off and place it on
end, then they make another in the same way. When this second
one is set, they take the first and place it upon it, that is to say, the
side of the first which was uppermost they put upon the top of the
other, fresh with fresh, and so the bread remains one whole one, and
they do nothing more than make it round and turn it from one side to
the other, and move it about on the plate, that it may bake on both
sides and on the circumference. In this manner they make one or as
many as they wish. In this same house are the raisins from which the
wine is made, and a machine for pressing. In this same house the
blessed bread is made which is given away on Saturdays and
Sundays and feast days; and on great feasts, such as Christmas,
Easter, Our Lady of August, etc., they carry this bread of the
sacrament with a pallium,[15] bell, and cross devoutly. Before they
enter the church with it they go round the church by the circuit like a
cloister; when it is not a feast they enter the church at once and
without the pallium. On a Saturday before Ascension these friars
made a procession, and from being in a new country it seemed to us
very good, and they did it in this way. They took crosses, and the
altar stone covered with a silk cloth, a friar carried it on his head,
which was also covered with the said cloths; and they carried books
and bells, and thuribles, and holy water; and all went chaunting to
some millet fields: there they made their devotions and cries after the
fashion of litanies, and with this procession they returned to the
monastery. We asked why they did that, and they said that the
animals ate their millet, and so they went to pour out holy water and
pray God to drive them out. In this country he that says the mass has
no other difference from the deacon and sub-deacon in his
vestments than a long stole with an opening in the middle to allow
the head to pass through; before and behind it reaches to the
ground. The friars say mass with hair on their heads; the priests do
not wear hair, and are shaven and so say mass. Also, both friars and
priests say mass barefooted, nobody enters the church with his feet
shod, and they allege for this what God said to Moses: “Take off thy
shoes from off thy feet, for thou art on holy ground.”

Cap. xiii.—How in all the churches and monasteries in the country of

Prester John only one mass is said each day; and of the situation
of the monastery of Bisam where we buried Mattheus; and of the
fast of Lent.
 In the monastery of St. Michael, where we were staying, we said
mass each day, not in the monastery, but in the circuit which is like a
cloister. In this country they do not say more than one mass in each
church or monastery. The friars came to our mass with great
devotion, as it appeared; and they supplied a thurible and incense,
because we had not brought any with us, and they do not think mass
is properly said without incense; and they said that they approved of
all, except that we had only one priest to say mass; because among
them not less than three, five, or seven stand at the altar to say
mass. They also were surprised at our coming into the church with
our shoes on, and still more at our spitting in it. In this manner we
said mass every day up to Trinity Sunday, and when we intended to
say mass on the following Monday they did not allow us to say it, at
which we were much scandalised and aggrieved, and it seemed to
us that they had some evil suspicion of us, not knowing why they so
acted. Later we learned how they preserved some things of the Old
Law together with the New; such as that of the fast of Lent, which
they began on Monday after Sexagesima Sunday, that is, ten days
before the beginning of our Lent; and so they make fifty days of Lent.
They say they take these days in anticipation for the Saturdays when
they do not keep the fast. When they fast they eat at night, and
because all fast they say mass at night, because all have to take the
communion. Likewise, as they take fifty days’ fast in Lent, so they
take as many days after Easter which are not fast days. Then, when
there is no fast, they say mass in the morning. This secret we did not
know, and we had no one to explain it to us: as soon as their liberty
not to fast had ended, their mass could not be said, except at night,
and so they did not consent to our saying it; thus we felt aggrieved
without cause. This time having ended and Trinity passed by, all
priests and friars are obliged to fast every day except Saturdays and
Sundays. They keep this fast up to Christmas Day, and as all fast
they say mass at night. They allege for this the supper of Christ,
when He consecrated His true Body, having been a fast time, and
almost night. The general people, that is secular men and women,
are obliged to fast from Trinity to Advent, Wednesdays and Fridays
of each week, and from Christmas day to the Purification of Our
Lady, which they call the feast of Simeon,[16] they have no fast. The
first three days after the Purification, not being Saturday or Sunday,
are great fast days for priests, friars, and laymen. They say that in
these three days they do not eat more than once: it is called the
penitence of Niniveh. At the end of these three days, up to the
beginning of Lent, they again fast as from after Trinity. During Advent
and the whole of Lent, priests, friars, lay friars, men and women,
small and great, sound and sick, all fast. Thus from Easter to Trinity,
and from Christmas to the Purification, they say mass in the
morning, because there is no fast, and all the other time at night,
because they are fasting. Where we buried Mattheus is a great and
honourable monastery, which is named Bisam, and its patron, Jesus.
From the monastery where we stayed to this is a league of very
precipitous country. It is on a very high rock, and looking round all
sides of it there appear like the depths of hell. The monastery house
is very large in bulk, and larger in revenues, and this monastery is
very well fitted. The fashion of this house is of three large and
beautiful naves, with their arches and vaulted roofs. They appear to
be of wood, and because all is painted, it is not certain whether it is
stone or wood. It has two sets of cloisters round the body of the
church, both covered in, and much painted with figures of apostles,
patriarchs, prophets, and many things of the Old Law, and many
angels, and St. George on horseback, who is in all the. churches.
This monastery also possesses a great cloth, like a piece of tapestry,
on which is the crucifix and effigy of Our Lady and the apostles, and
other figures of patriarchs and prophets, and each one has his Latin
name written, so that no man of the country made it. It has many
small and ancient pictures, not well made, and they are not upon the
altars, for it is not their custom: they keep them in a sacristy, mixed
up with many books, and they bring them out on feast days. There is
in this monastery a very large kitchen and bakehouse, also a very
large refectory, in which they eat. They mostly eat three and three[17]
in a large dish, it is not deep, but flat like a tray, and their food is very
poor. The bread is of maize and barley, and other grain which they
call taffo,[18] a small black grain. They make this bread round, and of
the size and roundness of a citron,[19] and they give three of these to
each friar: to the novices they give three loaves to two of them, it is a
matter of amazement how they can maintain themselves. They also
give them a few vegetables, without salt or oil. Of this food they send
to a great many old pensioners, who do not come to the refectory.
Besides seeing these things when we buried Mattheus, I saw them
many times, because I came there to pass time with the friars,
principally on feast days, when we were near there. In this way I
learned about them and their property, and revenues and customs.
In my opinion there were generally always a hundred friars in this
monastery, most of them old men of great age, and as dry as wood;
very few young men. This monastery is entirely surrounded by a
wall, and this wall is closed with two gates, which are always locked.

Cap. xiv.—How the monastery of Bisan is the head of six monasteries,

of the number of the brothers, and ornaments, of the “castar”[20]
which they do to Philip, whom they call a Saint.
This monastery is the head of six monasteries, which are around
it in these mountains; the furthest off is at a distance of three leagues
from it, and all are subject to it, and are governed and ruled by it. In
each of them is a David, that is a guardian appointed by the Abbot or
provincial of this monastery, who is also David under the Abba. I
always heard say that there were in this monastery three thousand
friars, and because I doubted it much I came here to keep the feast
of our Lady of August, in order to see if they would come together.
Certainly I rejoiced to see the riches of this monastery, and the
procession which they made: in my judgment the friars did not
exceed three hundred, and most of them were very old. There is a
circuit to this monastery which surrounds the two which are like
cloisters covered in, and this one which is not covered in was on that
occasion all covered in with brocades and inferior brocades, and
velvets of Mekkah, all long pieces, sewn one to another in order that
they might shelter the whole circuit. They made a very beautiful
procession through this canopied circuit; all wore cloaks of the same
stuffs, brocades, and velvets of Mekkah, badly made as I mentioned
above. They carried fifty small crosses of silver, of bad workmanship,
and as many thuribles of copper. When mass was said, I saw a great
gold chalice and gold spoon, with which they administered the
communion. Of the three hundred friars who came to this monastery,
very few were those that I knew as belonging to it: and I asked some
of my friends how it was, that with so large a number of friars in the
monastery as they said, they were not present at such a feast. They
told me that even though there were more than they had said, that
they were scattered about in these monasteries and churches, and
markets, to seek for their living, because that could not be in the
monastery whilst they were young men; and when they were old
men, and could not walk, they came to die in the monastery. On that
day I saw the habit put on seventeen young men. There is a tomb in
this monastery which they say is of an Abba or provincial of this
monastery who is named Philip, and they give him the merits of a
Saint, saying that there was a King Prester John who commanded
that Saturday should not be observed in his kingdoms and lordships,
and this Abba Philip went to that King Prester with his friars, and
undertook to show how God had commanded that Saturday should
be kept, and that whoever did not keep it should die by stoning, and
that he would maintain this before all the fathers of Ethiopia: and he
made it good before the King. Therefore they say that he was a Saint
for making Saturday to be kept, and they treat him as a Saint, and
they hold a feast for him every year, in the month of July, which they
call Castar Philip, which means funeral or memorial of Philip.[21] On
this account the people of this monastery are the most Judaizing of
all the kingdoms of Prester John. I came twice to this Castar of
Philip, at which they did me much honour, and they kill many cows at
this feast. In one year they killed thirty, and in another year twenty-
eight, and in each of the years that I came there they gave me two
quarters of the fattest cow that was killed. This flesh is distributed
amongst the people who come to the Castar, and the friars have
none because they do not eat meat. And these cows are all brought
as offerings by their breeders in the district, who vow them to Philip.
This monastery, and the others that are subject to it, have this rule in
addition, that no females enter them, that is to say, neither women,
nor she-mules, nor cows, nor hens, nor anything else that is female.
And these cows which they kill are killed a long way from the wall,
and when I came there they came to the distance of a crossbow shot
to take my mule, and they took her away to their farm of
Jamgargara, where Mattheus died.

Cap. xv.—Of the agriculture of this country, and how they preserve
themselves from the wild beasts, and of the revenues of the
monastery.
The friars of this monastery, and of the other monasteries subject
to it, might do good works by planting trees and vines, and making
gardens and orchards for their exercise; and they do nothing. The
country is ready to produce everything, as is seen from that which is
uncultivated: they do not plant or grow anything except millet and
beehives. When it is night, neither they nor anybody else go out from
their houses from fear of the wild beasts that are in the country, and
those who watch the millet have very high resting places upon the
trees, in which they sleep at night. In the district of this monastery
there are, in the valleys between the mountains, very large herds of
cows, kept by Arab Moors, and there go with each herd forty or fifty
Moors, with their wives and children: and their headman is a
Christian, because the cows that they keep belong to Christian
gentlemen of the country of the Barnagais. These Moors have
nothing else for their labour than the milk and butter which they get
from the cows, and with this they maintain themselves and their
wives and children. On some occasions it happened to us to sleep
near these Arabs, they accosted us to ask if we wished to buy cows,
and for the price allowed us to choose them. They say that these
Moors, and headmen who go with them, are all robbers under the
favour of the lords to whom the cows belong, and so only large
caravans travel. The revenues of this monastery are very large;
those which I saw and heard of are, chiefly, this mountain in which
the monastery is situated, of an extent of ten leagues, in which they
sow much millet, barley, rye, and all these pay dues to the
monastery, and they are also paid on the herds. On the skirts of this
mountain there are many large villages, and most of them belong to
the monastery, and at a distance of one or two days’ journey an