05 - Chapter 1
05 - Chapter 1
GENERAL INTRODUCTION
Travel has been integral to human life even in its nomadic state. After
humans had settled down to a calmer existence they travelled far and wide. O f
and on, this adventurous human activity has been recorded. In fact, as Theroux
remarks in The Tao o f Travel, the travel narrative is the ‘oldest in the world, the
story the wanderer tells to the folk gathered around the fire after his return from
a journey” (Preface, 2011, viii). These travel tales that may range from being
full o f wonder, delight, awe, are very often instructional and entertaining. At
times, some o f them may be even farcical. However, the best end in sheer
pleasure at the amazing travelling experience and the admiration for the human
involved in travel.
Often some o f the tales remain verbally untold, but many more get told
regard:
1
Stasis, monotony and isolation are in all likelihood the three angst creating
conditions that human psyche has always abhorred and striven to counter by
way o f adventure, change and creativity. This can be the possible explanation
for the timeless urge for travel as well as for travel writing displayed by
humanity. In fact, it can be argued that, in these twin exploits the innermost
Interestingly, in recent times, it has also become the focus o f critical and
literary inquiry. The travel voices speak a language conditioned by their socio
cultural milieu. While the western travel-voice has been substantially studied,
especially after the 1980s, the same cannot be said of Indian travel writing. As
such, the present study has undertaken the task o f exploring this dynamic body
of literary work in the Indian context, with available theoretic and critical
inputs.
writing, had been a marginalized domain in literary discourse. This had been
the case, in spite o f the sheer quantum, the distinctive nature and focus of
Hulme and Youngs point out to the Exodus in the Bible, and in the classical
Homer in Odyssey(2002, 2). In the travel tradition in India, for instance, the
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triumphs and travails in the course o f journeys undertaken by the semi-divine
protagonists o f the ancient epics M ahabharata and Ramayana are only too well
known to be discussed. Thus, although travel writing has had such rich
conventional literary genres like poetry, drama, novel and other prose writing
One o f the primary reasons for this neglect is the fact that travel
literature has been conglomerated into the miscellaneous mass o f writing that
manuals and journals pertaining even remotely to travel. Literary travel writing
thus has not been separated or disengaged from the bulk o f its popular non-
1500 to the late twentieth century and o f other more inclusive studies devoted
3
Reflections on Contem porary Travel Writing (1998), travel writing as a genre
has come to stay. These studies reveal the orientation of research on travel
writing as a genre taking place in the west i.e. mainly U.S.A and Western
Europe.
In addition to these works, the iconic and seminal text of Mary Louise
perspective. In turn, this has helped lay the ground for a postcolonial reading of
the travel genre. Thus, travel writing in the west has now become a potential
domain for multiple critical explorations. This has considerably erased the
emergent critical canon has helped build the notion of travel writing as a
As against this, Indian critical writing about travel has little to show by
way o f generic analysis and theoretic inputs. Although travel writing in India
has generated critical interest and it has been explored in recent times in works
Nation, Gender, Empire and the Cultures o f Travel (1996), their concern has
been with the contextual, mainly socio-cultural, rather than with a generic or
4
specific historical period that is, nineteenth century India, which has seen an
Ek Vangamay Prakar (1987) based on his Ph.D. thesis and Surendra Mathur’s
literary, generic study o f Indian travel writing befitting the Indian multilingual
and Hindi seems not to have been undertaken till date. This offers tremendous
visage o f travel writing as a literary genre in the Indian context, was felt to be
across the borders o f various sub-generic identities, being written in forms like
diaries, letters, even Active narratives and essays, among others, it is on the
domain/locales. This complexity o f the travel genre and the multifaceted nature
research.
Indian culture has been seen to be closely linked to travel. As is the case
with some other cultures o f the world, travel has been essential to its existence,
5
growth and sustenance. Thus, travel has been also a part of the ancient Indian
literary tradition. Surendra Mathur, for instance identifies three ages o f travel
Indian literature falls into: the Vedic age (1500BC to 1200BC), the Pre-historic
Age (1200 BC to 600BC), and the Historic Age (600BC tol200AD). With the
M athur also reveals how during these ages Indian travellers visited
various parts o f the world with varied objectives such as, political, trade-
modes o f travel more and m ore places came to be explored (as cited by Sawant,
1987, 10-11).
However, although India has had a long tradition of travel, writing about
right, since travel writing as an independent genre had not emerged till the
modem period in India though there were instances o f travel related writing in
epics and poetry. For instance, Dr Gopalkrishna and Jois point out that in the
ancient Indian literature viz Ram ayana, M ahabharata and Bhagwata, “there
are instances o f heroes visiting holy places, sacred rivers, venerable hermitages
and the authors o f these works have given their vivid description”(Tanjavur to
how many a work in Indian languages, such as the Sanskrit mega poem
6
and valleys” (ibid, xvi). They also note the sthalapuranas in the important
temples o f South India which were descriptions o f the holy places visited by
the Tamil saints o f yore (ibid, xviii). However, all these travel accounts were
subsumed under the broader generic frameworks o f either epics or saint poetry.
Simonti Sen has observed that the traveller has not been a very popular
figure in the H indu /shastric tradition. She points out that one of the words for
travel bhram an - a derivative o f the Sanskrit root word bhram means to make a
wandering. She cites the exam ple o f an episode in the epic Mahabharata,
eldest o f Pandavas, cites among other things the one who “stireth not from
home” as being the happiest, to depict this negative notion o f travel, wherein
clarifies that in the context o f pilgrimage, travel is encouraged and given a high
never encouraged (2005, 2-3). This may partially explain why the genre
literature.
rather than as a voluntary abode) was also an aspect highlighted in the two
epics Ramayana and Mahabharata through the episode o f Ram, Laxman, Sita in
Ramayana, and the Pandavas (once with mother Kunti and later with common
7
wife Draupadi) in M ahabharata. The aspect o f Vanvas that connotes a negative
like The E pic o f Gilgamesh or Odyssey. Leed, for instance, in his in depth
analysis o f western travel writing in, The M ind o f the Traveler: from
Gilgamesh to G lobal Tourism, points out that the journey in these two western
sustain and shape, alter and govern human destinies. The travels narrated in
the Odyssey and The Epic o f Gilgamesh are god-decreed and thus not wholly
Although the notion o f travel in the two western and Indian epics is
similar, unlike its western counterparts, which have been called as travel epics
(Emphasis added, Leed, 6), the Indian works are primarily epics and not travel
epics, since travels form only a part o f the larger narratives. In ancient Indian
literature, travel writing was thus embedded in genres like epics and poetry.
In early medieval Indian literature too, travel formed a part o f the major
genre o f poetry, particularly o f Bhakti poetry. The Bhakti lyric, as Sisir Kumar
Das points out in A H istory o f Indian Literature (500-1399): From the Courtly
to the Popular (2005), was a new form of literature, a product o f the Bhakti
Movement that began in the 6th century in Tamil Nadu and developed in
various Indian languages through the medieval ages. Further, he points out that,
there were two groups: one the worshippers o f the deity Siva called the
Shaivites and the other, the worshippers of the deity Vishnu and his incarnation
8
According to Das, the saints who belonged to the above sects would
travel from one temple to another praising God followed by the devotees. He
observes further, that this articulation was not the calm recitation reminiscent
of love for God. Through various examples o f literary works belonging to this
period Das shows that in the Bhakti lyrics, music and folk practices were used
and a sacred geography was created. Thus, he argues, that a new genre of
poetry w hich preached the religion o f compassion and love and crossed across
various social and cultural boundaries came into being. (Das, 27-35).
expression o f a strong hatred against the Buddhists and the Jains” (ibid, 28), it
also spelt a desire to change the rigidity that had set into the traditional Hindu
religion m aking it intolerant and exclusionist. These Bhakti lyrics were thus not
only structurally different in their usage of folk practices, but also thematically
compassion. These poems could be called travel lyrics since they were
the saints.
Critics like Das, have also identified forms o f the travel book in the
Jnanadev, for instance, wrote an account of his pilgrimage to north India titled
Thirtavaliche Abhanga. Das calls this text a proto form of a travelogue (Ibid,
9
205). The Lilacharitra (1276), written by Mhaimbhat who belongs to the Nath
Indian literature until almost the fourteenth century, albeit subsumed in the
travel w riting is absent in Indian travel writing. In all likelihood, with the
various invasions in the later medieval period, India recoiled inwards and was
not able to deal with the spate o f invasions that suddenly followed. Karsondas
Mulji a Gujarati native, social reformer and an avid endorser o f travel in the
mid nineteenth century points out in his book, England Ma Pravas{ 1886j, how
the Muslim invasions must have curbed the desire for travel in India and led to
a phobia o f foreign travel among the Hindus (the native religion o f the
medieval period). He further asserts that if travel was not mingled with religion
then perhaps the Hindus would not have travelled at all. (As qtd in Sawant,
1987, 4). Thus, travel during late medieval period, in the Indian context, was
largely, if not entirely, religious. Hence, the earliest accounts o f travel in Indian
To a large extent, the M uslim invasions and later the early European
colonial control generated a sense o f fear and led to lesser travel abroad. There
sindubhandhi (restrictions put on travel beyond and across the Sindhu river,
10
during the medieval age) and slowly travel came to mean being exposed to the
harmful influences of foreign people and their ways o f living. Thereby, travel
was associated with the notion o f potential defilement and by late medieval
A significant point o f departure from this trend was marked with the
was a gradual curiosity and so a desire among the Indians to travel abroad,
especially to England (the land o f the White Sahib). In fact, the history of
Indian travel writing in English begins with this endeavour. The first travel
immigrant working for the British army. It presents a view o f India to the
colonizer w ith an attempt to create ‘brand India’. As such, Dean Mahomed was
one o f the first immigrants to realize the benefit o f asserting the native identity
foreign countries were undertaken on a large scale. Such a desire for travel is
seen articulated in the narratives o f this period. Karsondas Mulji recorded his
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civil service officer in British bureaucracy wrote a travel book in English Three
Travel and travel w riting in India in the nineteenth century was thus
liberating, and strengthened the bond of the self to its traditional Indian ethos.
(This point is discussed at length in Chapter Three under the heading, ‘the
Bengali emerged. He opines that this was mainly due to the influx o f modem
genres like the novel, biography, autobiography and diary that placed the self
the rise o f the modern travelogue in Bengal during this period (2002, 298).
Other critics like Sisir Kumar Das in Indian Ode to the West Wind: Studies in
Literary Encounter also point towards a similar colonial influence (2001, 186).
was at the periphery. In ancient languages like Sanskrit and Tamil too, critics
have pointed out that it was not an autonomous genre. In ancient Tamil
literature though the basic elements o f travel book were present, the modem
travel book like the other m odem Indian genres “owes itself to western
of Sanskrit, K. Krisnamoorthy points out that, “we do not have anything like a
only after the advent o f m odem education in the nineteenth century” (ibid,
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4381). A sim ilar opinion is expressed with regard to modem Indian languages
like Marathi (ibid, 4376) and Bengali too. (‘Ode to West Wind’, Das, 186)
itself as a sub genre ensconced in larger frameworks like the epic and poetry.
Thus, it can be maintained that the evolution o f the travel genre was slow.
independent narrative only as late as the nineteenth century. Though the role of
the hands o f the elite educated Indian, there were a host o f other factors like the
patronage from the local princes to the British imperial power that led to the
century. This aspect will be subsequently taken up for detailed discussion and
travel books. Presently a word needs to be said about the focus, the objectives,
the scope, the methodology and the hypothetical bearings of the study.
years, and offers wide scope for study and analysis. The study aspires to be a
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modest attem pt at tracing the trajectory o f the developing generic visage of
travel writing and critically tapping what has been termed henceforth as
present study has been called, Voices in Transit: A Critical Study o f Indian
Travel W riting.
selected, the scheme o f chapterisation, the delimitation o f scope, and the usage
of the specific terms (Indian and Indian voices) in the title is sought to be
clarified.
in Indian literature. This study o f the Indian literary articulation in transit has
been gleaned from different epochs o f history-a history that has been wrought
with the intervention of invasions, but also restructured with the drive and
struggle for freedom. As a result, this study retraces the historical trajectory of
an India gradually evolving from the erstwhile imperial domain into the
Although the study examines various travel books under the broad
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homogeneous monolith o f w riting with a clear formal identity. In fact, these
travel writings are defined and enriched by their very heterogeneity. It was,
writing and establish its generic identity. The present study has also undertaken
this endeavour.
For the sake o f convenience and emphasis, this study has focused on
selected works o f Indian travel writing dating roughly from 1857 to 2004, the
Although, the study encompasses a wide ranging period, for the purpose of this
study texts have been selected depending on their relevance, availability and
potential for research. For instance, a single text from the eighteenth century,
namely Dean M ahom ed’s Travels (1794), is selected- the criteria for selection
being the pioneering role o f the book in introducing the theme o f native
consciousness in the emergent travel book, and also because he is the first of
the Diasporic voices o f Indian travel writers in English. In like manner two
texts namely Godse Bhatji’s M azha Pravas (1907) and Meera Kosambi’s
Gaze: The P eo p le’s o f the U nited States (2003), have been selected because
they are quite perceptibly representative of the age and depict a pattern of
15
The rest o f the texts by various writers are from the twentieth century.
They have been selected not only on the basis o f geographical space, but also
nation, as well as to the diasporic notion o f Indianness. Hence, writers who are
have been selected for study. Some o f these texts have been available in
Gujarati to Marathi).
patterns and trends seen in the travel books, belonging to the period under
insights from contemporary literary theory have been duly incorporated in this
contemporary reader.
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1) That with the emergence o f modernity there has been a palpable
thematic transition taking place in the Indian travel genre during the colonial
in the native and diasporic travel accounts, especially with regard to the
mentioned period have been selected. With the help o f these texts an extensive
study has been conducted in the relevant domain and chapters have been
formulated.
Indian languages like Marathi and Konkani and translated texts from
17
country like In d ia .
3. Reading primary texts for analysing the nature o f the genre, in the
Indian context;
useful;
5. Use o f travel texts in other languages like Gujarati and Hindi that
researcher.
sources.
The use o f the term Indian in the title o f the study needs clarification.
Hudson in his book An Introduction to the Study o f Literature, points out that a
national literature:
writer may greatly vary from the national type [...]. But his genius will still
representative writer’s at any given time, that spirit will be felt as a well
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defined quality pervading them all [...]. The history o f any nation’s literature,
then is the record o f the unfolding o f that nation’s genius and character under
This view has been taken into account and extended to the present study
A nation’s life has its moods o f exultation and depression; it’s epochs now of
strong faith and strenuous idealism ,[...]and while the manner o f expression
w ill vary greatly with the individuality o f each writer, the dominant spirit of
pronounced in all the writers o f that period, and by virtue of which these
contrast with the groups formed by the writers o f other periods ( 35).
Indian literature in the same vein has both, a national character and spirit
distinguishes the writers o f a particular period from those of another. The term
Indian thus encompasses the literature o f the nation as having a common mind
differential characteristics that m ark one national epoch from the other.
The term Indian w riting is used in the sense, referred by Das and Dev in
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Comparative Indian literature: Theory and Practice, as “a complex o f literary
relations” and further as ‘not only an inquiry into this unity’ but also “a study
into their diversity which enables one to understand the nature o f literary facts”
(1988, 95). The usage o f the term Indian writing would thus take into
diverse elements that define its literary nature and expression. Taking this
definition o f Indian writing into consideration the study has chosen texts from
would mean writings that have the quality o f excellence and presents ideas of
universal and permanent interest. Travel writing that are ‘literary’ in this sense
have been considered for study. This aspect has been fiirther elucidated in
Chapter Two where the literary and the popular travel writing have been
20
as OED, 821). There are few other terms in usage for the genre o f travel
writing such as, travel narrative, travel literature and travel writing. The word
excluded if the term narrative is used. In critical discourse the term narrative
set of events (the story) recounted in the process o f narration (or discourse) in
which the events are selected and arranged in a particular order (the plot)”
This critical sense o f the term, w hich presumes the presence o f narrator who
tells a story, cannot be applied to all types o f travel writings especially those
that deal w ith factual socio-political issues like V.S. Naipaul’s travel books
based on India. Although there are travel works which narrate stories
(imagined events) the use o f the term narrative then, would exclude fact based
travel works that do no have a story to narrate. The phrase travel book, on the
broad term which includes any “written or printed work with pages bound
along one side” (OED, 76) and also excludes any pictorial or illustrated work.
Where the phrase travel book w ould be used in the singular, the phrases travel
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1.9.3. The usage of ‘Voices’:
The usage o f the term voices in the title also needs clarification. This
term is not used in the sense o f the authorial voice prevalent in literary theory
where the term voice is used to indicate the all-pervading presence of the
author, who organizes and controls the text (See Abrams, 2000,219 and ODLT,
353-354). The usage o f the term voices in this sense would be appropriate for
conventional literary genres like a novel, drama or poem which have fictional
text. On the other hand these voices are visualised as experimental, innovative,
distinct and pioneering borrow ing from the attributes implied in Salman
making the case for Indian w riting in English, he describes the Indian voice
‘ambition’ ‘verve’ and as a kind o f writing back, when referring to the western
publishers excitement over this new body o f writing: “western publishers and
critics have been growing gradually more and more excited by the voices
emerging from India [...] British writers are often chastised by their reviewers
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for their lack o f Indian style, ambition and verve. It feels as if the east is
“these writers are ensuring that India, or rather Indian voice [...] will
when he m entions the new generation of Indian writers in English, the Indian
writer Kiran Desai as: “the new est o f all these voices” (xxii). The phrase Indian
voices has been used within this study specifically in these senses as being an
1.10. The list o f texts selected with the intended abbreviation to be used
23
4. Swami Vivekananda’s Memoirs o f European Travel. Translated
10. Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake (English Original; FHL, 1983).
14. Pico Iyer’s Sun after Dark-Flights into the Foreign (English
1.11. Delimitation:
study. Not regional languages per-se rather regional ethos has been
24
sought to be represented, wherever possible, through the availability
2. The study o f the primary texts was chiefly limited to content and to
writing.
4. Some texts which are well-known Indian travel books like Rahul
primary texts. Works of Pottekkatt and Gokak had to be left out due
25
him a west —Indian writer since he is “so much o f an insider while
his Indian ancestry, Panwar calls him a ‘western writer’ since he has
lived in England and ‘has been writing mainly with the western
“gazes at India through the eyes o f the Westerner” (274). Since this
The questions and issues in the study are introduced and essayed,
thought on travel writing has been elucidated. To put the study in perspective, a
brief overview o f travel writing in the period prior to 1857 i.e. the ancient and
medieval period is provided. It has been found that that the travel genre in the
ancient and medieval period was subsumed within the major literary genres
26
like the epic and poetry. W ith the advent o f colonization and subsequent socio
political changes taking place in the Indian society, travel as a genre emerged,
This Chapter also states the objective and the hypotheses of the present
study. Further, it spells out the scope o f the study, marks out its delimitation
The use o f certain terms in the title o f this thesis has also been explained
in this chapter. It lists the primary texts selected for study. Finally, it elucidates
the layout of the chapters with a brief discussion of the focus of the Chapter
and its contribution in testing the hypotheses. This Chapter ends with a brief
travel writing as a literary genre. Since one o f the hypotheses of the study is to
analyse the generic evolution, a generic introduction to this literary form was
found necessary.
‘genre’ in the light o f critical discourse. It has been deduced that travel writing
is a contemporary genre that is liminal, fluid and one that adopts various
literary forms. Notwithstanding this, it has been seen as having distinct literary
features the central among which is the imaginative element that makes it a
literary genre. The fact that the writer creates a story out o f the travelling
material, it has been argued, makes the travel book a constituent of a literary
27
genre. As such, the literary nature o f the travel book is sought to be established
in the course o f this Chapter. The three main features o f the travel genre have
been identified as the travelling self, the locale and the journey.
This Chapter primarily deals with the hypothesis regarding the thematic
transition of travel writing during the period undertaken for this study. As such
this Chapter covers Indian travel writing o f the period after 1857 till the 1920s.
integral part o f this discussion. It has been argued in this Chapter that Indian
evolved gradually as a potent literary medium to ‘voice’ the nation. The factors
that were responsible for its independent emergence have been accordingly
discussed.
Terming this early travel voice as the emergent voice of Indian travel
writing, this Chapter undertakes to divide it for convenience into two strands-
each representing the elite voice and the common m an’s voice respectively.
stage. Two travel books have been short listed as the representatives o f this
primarily o f the social reformers. It was the prominent voice that spoke for the
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These reformist travellers to the west (Europe and America), compared
these progressive countries to their own country and made a plea for a
the motif of their books, this Chapter discusses the concept o f the nation. These
elite travel writers adopted different approaches to voice their vision for the
nation. In the course o f this Chapter, the usage of these approaches has been
transition in the them atic m otif of this elite travel book from the nation to the
self has been traced in this chapter with the help of Rabindranath Tagore’s
PYD/DWV (1925).
On the other hand, this Chapter also notes that there was a common
man’s voice emerging with this elite voice. Two texts have been identified in
Travels has been seen as the earliest voice and the precursor o f travel writing in
India and Godse B hatji’s MP (1907) as holding its own against the dominant
presence o f elite travel writing that emerged in the late and early twentieth
century.
how there was a further growth in Indian travel writing from the 1930s to the
1960s. Since Rahul Sankrityayan’s oeuvre defines Indian travel writing o f this
period by its sheer bulk, variety and vision, this Chapter begins with a brief
29
in the first section o f this Chapter the nation m otif and romantic self,
in this Chapter.
The thematic m otif in Jeevanleela shifts from self to real life issues that
had begun to confront the sensibilities o f individuals o f the new bom nation.
text that shows a transition from the romantic patriotic nation theme to a
realistic concern about one’s identity in the post independence age. With the
help o f this travel text, it has been possible to argue in this chapter, how the
issue o f identity gradually became the dominant theme o f the travel book o f
this era.
(1963) and R.K N arayan’ s MDD{ 1964) have been also discussed in this
Chapter. They are mainly analysed as dealing with the post-colonial theme of
Since generically the travel book evolves steadily in the 1960s, and
writers are seen to discuss the nature o f their travel books in the prefaces and
forewords to their books, this Chapter duly analyses literary qualities that
contribute towards its growth like setting, dialogue and characterization that
This Chapter traces the contemporary (post 1980s) voice o f Indian travel
30
writing. Five representative travel books have been selected for study here.
They are Vikram Seth’s FHL (1983), Am itav Ghosh’s IAAL (1992) (English),
Datta Naik’s KTK (1995), Meena Prabhu’s Dakshinrang (1999) and Pico Iyer’s
SAD (2004).
parochial or any confining identity has taken a backseat now. The post
of the globalised w orld that the travelling s e lf happens to inhabit and trot.
Although, a concern, even pride for the nation still remains present in the travel
books o f this age, the authorial horizon has noticeably widened to include the
Meena Prabhu’s text has been discussed as a link text that shows a
transition from the post colonial theme o f identity to the cosmopolitan outlook
Since the primary focus of this Chapter has been to test the hypothesis
regarding the difference between native and diasporic travel books, terms such
as the ‘diaspora’ and ‘diasporic travel w riting’, the ‘native’ and ‘native travel
writing’ are defined. In the context o f the travel genre, it has been possible to
two groups. Since ‘hom e’ for the diasporic writer, is problematised, whether
31
there was any difference between their respective affiliations to ‘home’ has
technique. In a way the travel genre now justifies its description as a liminal
and establishes the generic identity o f travel writing. It goes over the
Though the texts are divided chronologically, these divisions are not all
exclusive and Indian travel writing should not be seen in terms of these rigid
categories. The period and their thematic import is only a convenient temporal
temperament o f an era and its impact cannot be wished away with the passage
Himalayant. Although, the text was published in the 1970s, it represents the
32
early twenties and thirties. Kelekar’s home state, Goa, a part o f India, was not
liberated at the time o f writing this book, unlike the rest o f the country. Hence,
genre. The texts had been selected not only because they were seen as
representative o f the period, but for the relevance they hold to the central
arguments and basic hypothesis o f this thesis. Hence, though the texts have
thematic focus of the texts, and their distinct formative features, have been of
1.14. Conclusion:
The study thus, intends to examine the perspective o f the Indian travel
writer on both the west as well as the east. This articulation, as the thesis would
scattered across the globe, a wide ranging period, and a broad spectrum o f
33
narrative forms and modes such as the epistolary, diary, memoir and the
34