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Basic Motoplat Testing

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Simon R Potter
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76 views4 pages

Basic Motoplat Testing

Uploaded by

Simon R Potter
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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BASIC MOTOPLAT TESTING

Section 1: Identification
All early Motoplat ignition systems share the same basic
features and operational characteristics. The most critical
electronics are contained in the external ignition secondary
coil, the lighting/ignition primary coils are contained in the
stator assembly. There are 2 basic Motoplat units found on
vintage motorcycles, external rotor (flywheel) and internal
rotor. The flywheel type, with lighting coils is the most
common. It is found on many MX and Enduro bikes. The
internal rotor type has no lighting coils and is found mostly on
competition MX bikes. There are several variations of the
flywheel type. The information below will deal with them. I will
list and describe the most common ones:

#1. I believe this is the earliest type commonly found. It has a


replaceable diode in the stator. It is identified by a diode
symbol (an arrow head pointing to the top of a T) on the front
face and a large notch on the outer circumference (containing
the diode) near the position where the wires come out. The
wires going to the ignition coil have clear insulating covers.
6 volt lighting coils
Yellow wire, 35 watts {head light}
Green wire, 18 watts {stop light}
Red wire, 5 watts {tail light}
Black wire, trigger circuit to ignition coil small terminal
Blue wire, capacitor charge wire to ignition coil large terminal
and kill switch

#2. Similar in appearance to #1 but no notch, although it still


has a diode in the stator. The wires going to the ignition coil
have clear insulating covers. The wire colors and wattage
values are slightly different.
Yellow, 35 w {head light}
Green, 21 w {stop light}
White 5 w {tail light}
Black, trigger {small terminal}
Blue, capacitor charge {large terminal} and kill switch

#3. Similar to #1, however there are some important


differences. It has no diode in the stator (it is has been
relocated to the ignition coil), there is no notch, and no diode
symbol on the face of the stator. The easiest way to identify it
is by the red insulators on the wires that go to the coil.
Yellow, 35 w {head light}
Green, 21 w {stop light}
White, 5 w {tail light}
Black, trigger {small terminal}
Blue, capacitor charge {large terminal} and kill switch

There are 2 types of ignition coils for Motoplat, as follows:

Black spark plug lead. This type has no diode in the coil.
Red spark plug lead. This type has a diode in the coil.
The black wire coil can only be used with the early (#1 & #2)
stators with the diode. The red wire coil can be used with all
three types of stators.

Section 2: Testing

I will describe the testing procedures for the ignition coils first
and then the stator testing procedures. It isn't necessary to
remove components from the motorcycle, but if on the bike
testing indicates a marginal (or faulty) component it is
recommended that the part be removed and retested. All tests
should be carried out with an Ohmmeter with a capacity of 0 to
10,000 ohms or greater.

#1. Testing ignition coil with the Black spark plug cable.

Remove both stator leads from the coil, and disconnect the
spark plug lead from the plug. Set the Ohmmeter to read
values from 0 to 50 ohms. Connect the test leads of the meter
to both flat terminals of the ignition coil. You should get a
reading between 20 and 30 ohms. If the reading is lower (0 or
near 0) or higher (50 ohms or more) the electronic system is
defective.

To test the electronic circuit in the coil set the measuring


range of the ohmmeter to 1,000 ohms. Connect one test lead
to ground and the other to the large terminal on the coil.
Charging of the condenser in the electronics should cause a
brief deflection of the
ohmmeter's needle, and then the needle should return to
infinity. Reverse the test leads. Again the needle should briefly
deflect and return to infinity. Repeat this 3 to 4 times. If the
pointer does not go back to infinity but remains on another
measuring value the
electronic system is defective.

To test the secondary winding of the ignition coil, connect one


test lead to ground. Connect the other test lead to the wire in
the spark plug lead. You should get a reading between 7,000
and 9,000 ohms. If so the secondary winding is in order.

#2. Testing ignition coil with Red spark plug lead.


The electronic circuit cannot be tested with an Ohmmeter.
The secondary windings can be tested as above.

#3. Testing the stator WITH diode (#1 & #2, clear insulators
and diode symbol)

Disconnect the black wire from the ignition coil. Disconnect the
blue wire from the ignition coil and the kill switch. Connect one
lead of the ohmmeter to ground. Connect the other lead to the
blue wire. Note the reading. Interchange the test leads and
note the second reading. In one connection the reading should
be infinity, in the other, 3,000 to 9,000 ohms should be
indicated. If a reading of very low resistance (0 to 50 ohms) is
obtained in both cases, then the diode is defective. If a
reading of very high (over 15,000 ohms to infinity) resistance
is measured, there is an interruption in the stator plate.
#4. Testing the stator WITHOUT diode (#3, no diode symbol,
red insulators in coil leads)

Disconnect the black wire from the ignition coil. Disconnect the
blue wire from the ignition coil and kill switch. Ground one test
lead from the ohmmeter. Connect the other lead to the blue
wire. A resistance reading between 140 and 180 ohms
indicates the charging coil is in order. Next connect one test
lead to the black wire and the other lead to the blue wire. A
resistance between 16 and 24 ohms indicates the trigger coil
is good. A low reading (less than 15 ohms) indicates there is a
short in the trigger coil.

Whenever an electrical problem is encountered, always check


all terminals and connections to ensure they are clean and
tight. If the problem persists or reoccurs, you should
THOROUGHLY inspect all wires, terminals, and connections.
You should disconnect, inspect and clean every junction.
Check each wire for kinks, nicks, and abrasions. It is also a
good idea to check each wire with an ohmmeter to be sure it is
not acting as a resistor. Its also very important to ensure all
components are properly and thoroughly grounded. Again
remove each component, inspect and clean, before
reinstalling it. Most problems can be traced to a poor
connection or faulty wire.

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