Best Practices Guide for Installing

Solid Wood Cladding

Second Edition
 Project Managers
Myriam Drouin, Innovation Support Specialist, Strategic Foresight, FPInnovations
Nicolas Pearson, Industrial Advisor, FPInnovations.

Acknowledgements
Many collaborators worked together to produce this guide:
Writing:
• Alain Gagnon / Martin Scallon, Groupe Crête
• Benoit Schmitt, Maibec
• Éric Venne, Groupe Concept PV
• Guy Simard, APCHQ – Quebec City Region
• Jean-Luc Ouellette / Alain Lavoie, Juste-du-Pin
• Jean-René Jacob / Pierre Beaudoin, Maxi-Forêt
• Lara Sioui, Revêtement Premium
• Michel Brunet, Goodfellow
• Simon Martin, Fraser Wood Siding

Secondary contributors:
• Donia Melanson, MEL Innovation
• Julie Côté, Plafond, Lambris & Cie Inc
• Caroline Frenette, Francois Chaurette, Kevin Gazeau et Richard Poirier, Cecobois

Technical drawing production:

• Louise Armstrong
• Appalaches Solutions Bois Inc
Funding :
This guide was funded by the Signature Bois Laurentides excellence cluster via the ministère de l’Économie,
de la Science et de l’Innovation, le ministère des Forêts, de la Faune et des Parcs du Québec, along with
Natural Resources Canada.

Guide of Best Practices for Installing Solid Wood Cladding

ii Second Edition
Disclaimer
Although this guide was designed with as much precision as possible, in accordance with current practices
for wood cladding, Cecobois, Wood WORKS! and the Canadian Wood Council are not liable for any errors or
omissions that may arise from the use of this guide. All users of this guide fully assume all risks and responsibil-
ities associated with it.
This guide presents the best manufacturer installation practices. It supplements the codes and standards and
manufacturer installation guides, but is not a replacement or substitute for these. As such, it is the installer’s
duty and responsibility to take all available documentation into account prior to completing work to ensure the
validity of manufacturer warranties.
Finally, to ensure simplification, the technical drawings in this guide do not show all construction details to meet
requirements of codes and standards.

Note
This version of the Guide of Best Practices for Installing Solid Wood Cladding is an abridged version. The com-
plete version of the guide may be obtained from FPInnovations (www.fpinnovations.ca). Cecobois collaborated
to format and publish this guide.

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Second Edition iii
 Table of Contents
Project Managers ii
Acknowledgements ii
Disclaimer iii
Note iii
Table of Contents iv
1. Preparation 1
1.1 Receiving and storing materials at work site 1
1.2 Materials required 2
1.3 Wall straightening and corrections 2
1.4 Flashing and weather barriers 2
1.5 Furring strips 3
1.6 Opening contours 5
1.7 Junctions with other cladding 7
2. Installation 9
2.1 Spaces 9
2.2 Openings for ventilation 9
2.3 Organization of lengths and butt joints 13
2.4 Cutting 14
2.5 Touch-ups 15
2.6 Cladding fasteners 16
2.7 Installing cladding 19
2.8 Sealant 21
3. Maintenance 22
3.1 Cleaning 22
3.2 Minor maintenance 23
4. References 23

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1 Preparation
1.1 Receiving and storing The cladding must be stored in a place that will
maintain its original condition—it should be dry and
materials at work site well-ventilated, not heated, on a flat and dry surface,
Best practices in installing wood cladding begin with and at a distance of 150 mm (6 in) off the ground to
proper material receipt and storage. allow for good airflow below the package (Figure 1).
An ideal example is a carport with open sides or a
Upon receipt of the materials, an inspection is required. gazebo. When such a location is available, the pack-
Customers must ensure that the product is the correct aging may remain open during the work. Otherwise,
model, colour and quantity they ordered. If the clad- the covering provided by the manufacturer must be
ding is delivered damaged, it must not be installed. You kept on the package at all time, as long as it has
should take note of any alteration to the packaging. maintained its waterproofing, without which it must
If you notice a problem, contact the supplier as soon be replaced by a new, equivalent covering. You must
as possible. Cladding manufacturers or suppliers are also keep the plastic film between the boards to pre-
not generally required to replace damaged cladding vent them from sticking together. Whether in a special
once it has been installed or altered in any way. storage area or not, any cladding remaining at the
It is recommended that you install the cladding as end of the day must be protected or at least covered
quickly as possible after you receive it in order to by the manufacturer’s covering.
prevent risks of variation in the product’s moisture
content, which may lead to warping in the boards
or variation in size. Optimal storage conditions are
the best bet for maintaining the quality and stability of
your cladding, from the time you receive it to the time
it is installed.

or

SLOP
E
SLOP
E

FIGURE 1 • Storage of cladding on site

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 1.2 Materials required 1.3 Wall straightening and
Prior to beginning work on site, the person responsible corrections
must ensure that they have all materials necessary for
For proper installation, the wall to be covered in clad-
the installation. The list below contains the main neces-
ding must be generally flat. Significant differences in
sary components:
the evenness between two or several adjacent furring
Cladding and mouldings strips will warp the wall cladding and the resulting rip-
• Correct colour ples may be visible depending on lighting. Significant
• Correct shape ripples could also seriously constrain the fastening sys-
tems used to hold the cladding in place. Corrections
• Sufficient quantity
are recommended when the amplitude of the ripples
Finishing product for touch-ups (provided is greater than 5 mm (0.2 in) for one furring strip com-
by cladding manufacturer) pared to two adjacent furring strips (Figure 2).
• Correct colour
• Sufficient quantity - 5 mm

Installation accessories
• Metal starting strips
• Metal finishing strips for upper walls or screens
FIGURE 2 • Ripple amplitude of one furring strip compared
• Screens to two adjacent furring strips
• Manufacturer-recommended staples
and/or nails
Tools
• Pneumatic nailer or stapler for 1) cladding,
1.4 Flashing and weather barriers
2) finishing strips (if needed) Installers must make sure that there are flashing and
• Compressors with adequate capacity weather barriers, that they are installed in compliance
to supply air for pneumatic tools with local codes, and that the installation meets manu-
facturer requirements. Remember that the purpose of
• Laser level
weather barriers and flashing is to dissipate water to
• Manual level the exterior. An error may cause a leak and premature
• Mitre saw wall damage.
• Scroll saw Flashings ensure building water tightness between
• Finish blade two different construction materials. Installers must
make sure that the necessary flashing is constructed
• Sheet metal brake (to make flashing) correctly (Figure 3), in compliance with codes and
• Hammer standards in effect, and that they are present in the
• Plastic cap for hammer head following proper locations:
• Sheet metal snips • Openings (doors and windows)
• Fine or applicator brush • Wall/ceiling junction
• Chimney
• Transition between another type of cladding
or surface

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 END STOP
Minimum 25 mm
(about 1 in)
6% slope towards exterior

Rise minimum 50 mm
(about 2 in) under the
sheathing membrane

VERTICAL COVERING
Minimum 10 mm
LIP (about 3/8 in)
Minimum 5 mm
(about 3/16 in)

FIGURE 3 • Flashing specifications for openings (Source: APCHQ)

1.5 Furring strips 400 mm o.c.

(16" o.c.)
For proper maintenance of solid wood cladding, it is
important to install the necessary furring strips. The
dimensions of the furring, their position and spacing
depend primarily on the shape of the cladding used
(width, thickness) and the orientation of the cladding
boards (horizontal, vertical, diagonal).
For renovations, it is necessary to replace any or all
damaged furring strips as needed.

1.5.1 Type of furring strips

Furring strips are commonly made of wood: SPF
(spruce-pine-fir) boards or marine-grade plywood
in the same size. The cladding is then nailed or sta-
pled to the furring. In some commercial or institu-
tional buildings, metal furring is sometimes used—for
example, stainless steel, Z section or Omega. This
requires the addition of a wood nail-holding base as
described below.

FIGURE 4 • Position of furring strips for horizontal cladding

1.5.2 Dimensions and position
of furring
In residential and commercial construction, a common All furring must be firmly attached to the building
type of furring available is 25 mm x 76 mm (1 in x 3 in). structure. To ensure the cavity drains and ventilates
Some more severe conditions require thicker or wider adequately, only vertical furring is accepted directly
backing—for example, with larger width cladding, dark on weather barriers at 400 mm centre to centre
colours and/or surfaces with high sun exposure. (16 in o.c.).
The best practice is to install furring following the
primary methods of installation as shown in the fol-
lowing images.

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 c. c.
o. o.
2" m

)
400 mm o.c. 400 mm o.c.

(1 m
0
(16" o.c.) (16" o.c.)

30
or 300 mm (12" o.c.)
400m o.c. (16" o.c.)

FIGURE 5 • Position of furring strips for horizontal cladding

c. .
o. o.c

400 mm o.c.
)
(1 mm

(16" o.c.)
0
2"
30

1.5.4 Attaching furring strips

The furring strips must be fixed to the wall frame.
It is recommended that the fasteners penetrate
the solid frame by at least 32 mm (1¼ in). Depen­
ding on the wall’s construction and the energy effi-
ciency standard in effect for the building’s envelope,
it is now common to add insulation on the wall’s exterior.
The length of fasteners must be adjusted accordingly
so that they penetrate at least 32 mm (1¼ in) into the
frame.
Resin-coated spiral nails are the recommended type of
fastener. Two (2) nails are installed at the ends of the
furring, and then one (1) nail at every 300 mm (12 in)
vertically. For installation methods requiring a double
lathing, the second row of furring strips requires two (2)
nails at the ends of the furring, and then also two (2) nails
at each furring strip in the first row, every 400 mm (16 in).

FIGURE 6 • Position of furring strips for diagonal cladding NOTE:

The installation of double furring strips (laths) as illus-
trated above creates an air space of 38 mm behind
1.5.3 Cladding surface over the exterior cladding. However, for any air space
6 metres tall greater than 25 mm under the cladding, most con-
struction codes require that sheet steel fire blocking
The dimensions and spacing for furring shown above
0.38 mm thick (article 9.10.16.3.2a) be installed at the
apply for walls of a maximum height of 6 metres. If the
level of each board (article 3.1.11.2.1a) horizontally, to
cladding surface exceeds this height, the following is
leave a maximum of 20 m of horizontal distance and
necessary for proper ventilation:
3 m of vertical distance between the fire blocks (article
• Either increase the width of the furring and 3.1.11.2.1c). This detail will be similar to Figure 16 of
opening at the top and bottom of the walls; the guide, but with double furring strips (double laths).
• Or compartmentalize, by breaking up and
expelling the air space by integrating new
openings and air outlets in each section of the
wall (maximum 6 metres). Refer to Figure 16 to
view the impact on the furring strips of breaking
up the air space on the second board.

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1.5.5 Installation specifications For optimal ventilation, the back cavity should be of
minimal dimensions. The open space of the back
When the wall exterior is aligned with the foundation, cavity should generally be at least 10 mm (3/8 in). The
it is recommended that the furring strips cover the foun- size and orientation of the furring as well as the airflow
dation by at least 25 mm (1 in). If the wall is set back percentage from the installed ventilation component
from the foundation, or when there is masonry at the determine this size.
base of walls, refer to Figure 10, 11 and 13 for design
recommendations.
1.6 Opening contours
1.5.6 Protective barriers Prior to installing furring strips and/or finishing moul­
ding around openings (doors, windows, conduits,
Furring strips create a ventilated cavity between the etc.), make sure that the weather barrier membrane
wall and the cladding. The presence of this cavity, or air is watertight to prevent water from entering the wall
space, is essential because it enables water, humidity structure. You must also install metal flashing above all
and heat to escape where it may otherwise accumulate. doors and windows to allow water drainage. Weather
This cavity therefore needs to be open, at the top and barriers should overlap the flashing by 50 mm (2 in).
bottom of walls as well as openings, in order to ensure Furring strips should leave a space of about 25 mm
good air circulation in the cavity. These openings must (1 in) above the horizontal part of the flashing so they
remain free at all times of sealant or any other material are not visible once the cladding is installed.
obstructing air circulation.
Install furring strips making sure to not press them
Functional statement F42 of the National Building Code directly on the frame of the opening in order to al-
(NBC) stipulates that the building must resist the entry of low for water drainage and facilitate door or window
vermin and insects (NRC, 2012). It is therefore recom- installation or replacement. The following spacing is
mended to install ventilation components at the base recommended (Figure 8).
and top of walls to prevent vermin and insects from
settling behind the cladding (moulding, anti-rodent grille Above the opening:
or metal screen) (Figure 7). Some manufacturers make • 25 mm (1 in) between the flashing and furring
metal moulding that provides this protection.
• 10 mm (3/8 in) between the flashing and cladding
NOTES :
On the sides:
• Avoid installing horizontal furring strips at the
• 12 mm (½ in) between the frame and furring
base and top of the wall, because they will
prevent good ventilation and free drainage. Under the opening:
• To meet the NBC’s requirements, the air space • 12 mm (½ in) between the frame and furring
should not be adjacent to the concealed space • 10 mm (3/8 in) between the cladding and flashing
under the roof 1.

Anti-rodent grille Screen Avoid horizontal furring at top and base of wall
FIGURE 7 • Protective barriers at the base and top of walls

1
https://www.garantiegcr.com/fr/echo-gcr/protection-minimale-contre-les-infiltrations-de-precipitations/

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 Ventilation component

Flashing 25 mm

12 mm 12 mm

12 mm
Ventilation component

a) Front view

Weather barrier Furring strip

Ventilation component

25 mm
(1") Flashing

10 mm
( 3/8")

10 mm
( 3/8") Flashing
10 mm
( 3/8")

Cladding Ventilation component

Weather barrier
Furring
b) Cross-section

FIGURE 8 • Preparation of walls around openings (without finishing moulding)

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If finishing mouldings are installed onto frame openings, flashing must be added above the upper moulding.
The same orientation for furring applies (Figure 9).

Furring Weather barrier

3 mm Flashing
( 1/8")
Decorative moulding

Flashing

25 mm
(1")
10 mm
( 3/8")

Ventilation component

10 mm
( 3/8") Flashing
Decorative moulding

Ventilation component

Cladding
Furring
Weather barrier

FIGURE 9 • Preparation of walls around openings (with finishing moulding)

1.7 Junctions with other cladding 1.7.1 Masonry sleeper wall

It is common for a dwelling’s walls to be covered in more As a general rule, a stone apron is installed above
than one type of cladding. For example, a wall with solid a masonry sleeper wall. This requires the installation
wood cladding might have a base in masonry, panel- of flashing for water drainage. The upper section of
ized stone or faux stone. It is important to install the the flashing must be under the weather barrier and
flashing necessary for water drainage and to have an under the furring. The furring must leave a space of
opening above the flashing for ventilation and drain- 38 mm (1 ½ in) above the horizontal part of the flashing
age. Where the two types of cladding meet, there (Figure 10). In this specific case, the flashing rests
should be a minimum of 10 mm (3/8 in) clearance on the apron, and a sealant is applied to prevent
between the two, depending on how far the element water ingress under the flashing. Depending on the
protrudes. For large protruding elements, the space thickness of the masonry wall, maintain clearance of
can be increased to 25 mm (1 in). 10 mm (3/8 in) to 25 mm (1 in) between the clad-
ding and the flashing. To ensure good ventilation and
drainage, the wood should not touch the flat surface
of the flashing. This means that no sealant should be
applied to connect the flashing and wood cladding.

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 Cladding
Furring
Weather barrier

38 mm
(1")
38 mm
(1 1/2")

Flashing

Ventilation component

Concrete sill
Brick

FIGURE 10 • Preparing walls at junction of masonry sleeper wall

1.7.2 Other cladding flashing is necessary (Figure 11). Since this section
of cladding maintains continuity in ventilation, it is
with ventilated air space included in the 6 metre maximum height for the clad-
For transitions with another type of cladding with an ding surface (section 2.2.1).
adequately ventilated air space (an open free space at
least 10 continuous mm (3/8 in)), only one transition
Weather barrier
Furring
Cladding

10 mm
( 3/8")

Flashing

Panelized

Ventilation component

FIGURE 11 • Preparing walls at junction of a panelized stone wall (or faux stone)

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2 Installation
2.1 Spaces 2.2 Openings for ventilation
Wood cladding must have the following minimum
distances from surfaces below in order to prevent 2.2.1 Openings
deterioration from excessive humidity or nearby
water: As described previously, it is recommended to install
• 200 mm (8 in) above the ground openings at the base and top of walls that link directly
with the back cavity. These openings are crucial for
• 50 mm (2 in) above inclined roofing letting out water, moisture and heat that can accumu-
• 200 mm (8 in) above flat roofing late behind the cladding. On a foundation wall, which
• 50 mm (2 in) above a patio is normally aligned with this wall, this opening is not
necessary because the cavity is directly exposed
• 25 mm (1 in) above a lintel
(Figure 13a). However, if the foundation sticks out
In situations where it is difficult to leave this amount beyond the wall towards the exterior, flashing must be
of clearance, the responsibility lies with the designer installed and a 10 mm (3/8 in) opening must be placed
or construction contractor to adapt the design and between the cladding and flashing (Figure 13b).
installation to attain the same objective.

200 mm
(8 in) 50 mm (2 in) 50 mm (2 in)

FIGURE 12 • Minimum clearance of cladding above a surface

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Second Edition 9
 Weather barrier Cladding

Ventilation component
Furring

25 mm
(1")

200 mm
(8 in) minimum

200 mm
(8 in) minimum

a) Foundation aligned with the wall

Weather barrier Ventilation component Furring

Cladding

25 mm 10 mm
(1") ( 3/8")

Flashing

b) Foundation sticking out beyond wall

FIGURE 13 • Opening at the base of the walls

At the top of the wall, a minimum of 10 mm (3/8 in) of contiguity between the back cavity and the under-
open space (free of any obstruction) is also neces- roof air space (art 9.27.2.2.3) (CNRC, 2015). There
sary between the cladding and the roof, but it will are several possible solutions, including the two
be different depending on the type of roof. It is im- exam­ples presented in Figures 14 and 15.
portant to note that the NBC requires a break in the

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 50 mm x 50 mm flashing
(2” x 2”) minimum

Roo
f tru
ss
Fascia
10 mm
( 3/8")

10 mm
( 3/8")

Perforated
soffit

Weather barrier Furring Ventilation

component
Note :
50 mm x 50 mm (2” x 2”) flashing is an example of a way to break
Cladding the contiguity between the back cavity and the under-roof air space.
There are other possible methods.
Please refer to the responsible authorities.
a) With eaves

Flashing
10 mm
Flashing ( 3/8")

Roof
beam Ventilation
component

Cladding
Weather barrier

Cladding

Furring

b) Without eaves

FIGURE 14 • Opening at top of walls with and without eavesit

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 Perforated soffit Flashing 50 mm x 50 mm (2" x 2")

Roofing

10 mm
( 3/8")
Fascia

10 mm
( 3/8")

Weather barrier Furring Ventilation component

Cladding

a) For horizontal cladding

Perforated soffit Flashing 50 mm x 50 mm (2" x 2")

Roofing

10 mm
( 3/8")
Fascia
10 mm
( 3/8")

Weather barrier Furring Ventilation component

Cladding

b) For vertical cladding

FIGURE 15 • Opening at top of a gable

On the other hand, remember that for walls with a thickness of the drainage and ventilation cavity must
flat surface greater than 6 metres tall, it is required be increased to compensate for a greater amount
to break up the air space with free openings of 10 of air to ventilate. It is suggested that you place this
mm (3/8 in), as illustrated in Figure 16. Otherwise, the break at the floor edges.

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 Ventilation component
Furring
Weather barrier

10 mm
( 3/8")
10 mm
( 3/8")

10 mm
( 3/8")
Flashing

Cladding

FIGURE 16 • Interruption of air space for cladding surfaces taller than 6 m

2.2.2 Open space of cladding 2.3 Organization of lengths

back cavity and butt joints
The open area of the back cavity depends on furring For a natural effect and to distribute the effects of po-
thickness, furring spacing and the airflow of the venti- tential longitudinal shrinkage or swelling, it is best to
lation component (moulding, screen, etc.). Ventilation vary board lengths and spread out the butt joints on
components with perforations (quantity and dimen- the wall to avoid having them in alignment. The dis-
sions) allowing for the free flow of air and providing an tribution of lengths on the wall should be planned as
open free space of at least 10 continuous mm (3/8 in), follows:
at the base and top of the walls, will provide the mini­ • Distribute the boards in a way that limits
mum open air space necessary for most wall lathing. the number of joints on the wall
These openings must not be obstructed by sealant or
• Position the lengths according to the length
any other material that could hinder airflow.
of spaces to cover to minimize the number
of breaks
• As much as possible, avoid joints above open-
ings to limit potential points of water ingress

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 • Avoid placing two boards that are 3.6 m (12 ft) 2.4 Cutting
to 4.8 m (16 ft) long end to end
• It is recommended to insert shorter lengths
between long boards 2.4.1 Cutting methods
• A wood or metal vertical transition moulding For a high-quality cut, use a finish blade. Regular
is necessary when making fixed-length wall cutting blades tend to make coarse cuts that are not
sections smooth.
Positioning of non-tongue and groove cladding End cut
For non-tongue and groove cladding, joints must be End cuts at a 22.5° angle are recommended, rather
aligned with furring to solidly attach the ends of clad- than a 90° angle, for higher quality and to prevent
ding boards to each other. being able to see through the joint in case of wood
shrinkage. A 22.5° angle is suggested to prevent splin-
Positioning of tongue and groove cladding
tering or breaking at the end of the cut, compared to a
(irregular installation)
45° cut. It is not necessary to leave spacing, because
Several manufacturers now offer cladding boards with the ends must be supported on top of the other.
edges containing tongues and grooves. This maxi-
mizes wood use and lengths in a “random” instal- When pieces are installed vertically—mouldings, clad-
lation, distributing the butt joints at different lengths ding, etc.—it is essential to cut at an angle that allows
along the wall. water to run off towards the exterior.
When pieces are installed horizontally, it is best to cut
so that the angle will face the least visible side of the
building.
As specified in section 2.5, it is important to apply
a finish product to the ends of the pieces prior to
installation.
Junction cut
For cuts to delineate a corner or an opening, 90°
angle cuts are recommended, while planning for a
clearance of about 3 mm (1/8 in) maximum to allow
for wood movement. This spacing will be covered in
sealant (section 2.8).
For outer wall corners, do not use a 45° angle cut be-
cause wood movement over time will create openings
that allow water ingress. Exterior corner mouldings
are recommended instead.
When using metal corner moulding, the same spa-
cing and weather stripping precautions apply.

FIGURE 17 • Positioning of lengths and joints

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 Wall structure Wall structure

Furring Furring
Horizontal cladding

22.5º cut - Touching ends 90º cut

Horizontal cladding Corner
3 mm (1/8”) spacing and sealant
moulding
End cut Junction cut

FIGURE 18 • Cut to make at end and junction joints

2.4.2 Removing flaws prior 2.5 Touch-ups

to installation
Wood contains distinctive marks that increase its 2.5.1 How and why to touch up
visual value. Taking these characteristics into ac- During installation, any alterations to the surface
count, factory work is done following strict and highly finish, such as cuts or fasteners, can allow water
detailed quality criteria to remove abnormalities that ingress and product damage. Everywhere the wood
could allow water to enter through the cladding. In is stripped down, it must be protected from potential
spite of this, the final product may still contain some damage by reapplying sufficient finish product. The
irregularities. In addition, transportation and storage objective of modifications is to seal the stripped parts
may cause breaking. As such, it is up to the client or using the finish product provided or recommended by
installer to plan for a percentage of lost for any mate- the manufacturer.
rial that will be cut, and to perform a final inspection
of the boards before installation. On the other hand, Apply a layer of finish product to saturate the pores.
a client or installer may want to remove some or all A second layer may be advisable in some cases.
distinctive marks for a more uniform and pared-down Touch-ups must be done using a brush or applica-
appearance. Remember that this operation will inc- tor sized appropriately for the necessary touch-ups.
rease material loss and is not necessary from a product It is important not to reapply the touch-up product on
performance perspective. top of the finish already in place to avoid changing its
appearance. For example, when installing with visible
nails, the unfinished nail heads should be touched up
with the brush point without going over the edges to
the wood around it.

2.5.2 Application conditions

Since the objective behind touch-ups is to seal
the stripped areas of wood, it is essential that the
conditions allow the product to penetrate the wood.
For this to happen, the wood and finish product
must be at an adequate temperature, in particular
to ensure optimal product viscosity. Cladding pro-
ducers refer to their finish product manufacturers,
and generally the application temperatures must be
higher than 10° C.

FIGURE 19 • Final inspection by installer

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Second Edition 15
 • Ringed body
• Flat textured head with 1/4 in diameter
• Minimum length:
• 50 mm (2 in) minimum for cladding and
moulding that has a thickness of 19 mm
(3/4 in) or less.
• 64 mm (2 1/2 in) minimum for cladding
and moulding that has a thickness of 32 mm
(1 1/4 in) or less.
• For thicker moulding and cladding,
see manufacturer recommendations.
Never use mild steel fasteners that are not corrosion
resistant, because rust stains the cladding surface
finish and compromises the fastener’s integrity.

FIGURE 20 • Applying touch-ups

When two coats are necessary, the first coat must
be dry before the second is applied, unless othe-
rwise indicated by the finish product manufacturer. All
6 faces/edges of the siding should be covered by a
finish product and no surface should be left exposed
to the elements.
It is important to protect the touch-up product from
freezing before and during its use to avoid altering its
properties.
Staples
2.6 Cladding fasteners For concealed-fastener cladding (interlocking tongue-
and-groove system), staples are recommended for all
hidden fasteners. The specifications are as follows:
2.6.1 Types of fasteners
• For cedar cladding: 304 stainless steel staples
(or 316 for coastal regions) only
• For other types of wood: staples made of 304
stainless steel (or 316 for coastal regions)
or galvanized steel staples
• Calibre: 16
• Minimum width: 11 mm crown (7/16 in)
• Minimum length: 50 mm (2 in)
• Coated in resin

Nails
Nails are the recommended type of fastener for instal-
ling cladding with visible attachments and mouldings.
The specifications are as follows:
• For cedar cladding: 304 stainless steel nails
(or 316 for coastal regions) only
• For other types of wood: nails made of 304
stainless steel (or 316 for coastal regions)
or hot-dip galvanized steel nails

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However, some attachments cannot be hidden in 2.6.3 Fastener positioning
concealed-fastener cladding installations, and visible
fasteners are needed: cladding boards whose inter- Concealed-fastener cladding
locking systems were cut or places where the stapler For concealed-fastener cladding, the base of each
can’t reach. The manufacturer-provided nails descri- board is held by interlocking with the board below.
bed above can be used particularly in the following However, the upper side of the board must be at-
situations: tached with two fasteners per furring strip. For this,
• First row at base of wall many manufacturers place a staple line on their
channels. If this line is not present, the staple must
• Cladding board above an opening (window
be positioned so that it will be covered by the board
or door)
above and inserted at the incident angle required to
• Cladding board under a window penetrate through the whole width of the board, and
• Final cladding board at top of wall not just the upper tongue. Use two staples per furring
strip with a recommended spacing of 19 mm (3/4 in)
between the staples (Figure 21a). Some manufactur-
2.6.2 Anchorage depth ers also provide a guide that can be used with certain
Article 9.27.5.7.2 of the National Building Code (NRC, commercial staplers to ensure proper fastener loca-
2015) stipulates that, for optimal cladding perfor­ tion and angle.
mance, fasteners must cross the furring strips or pene-
trate at least 25 mm (1 in) into a solid nail-holding base.
This nail-holding base may be made up of furring strips
and solid wood (panel of OSB, plywood, CLT). Calcu- 3
/4"
lating the depth of penetration in the nail-holding base
takes into account the thickness of the cladding and
incident angle.
Staple #1 Staple #2
For most cladding 19 mm (3/4 in) thick or less, a 51 mm
(2 in) long staple, placed at an incident angle between
20 and 30 degrees, will penetrate the furring as speci- Horizontal cladding
fied in the National Building Code (NRC, 2015). In addi-
tion, attaching a 50 mm (2 in) long nail, at a right angle
Vertical furring
(90 degrees), on cladding from 19 to 25 mm (3/4 to 1 in)
thick, will fully penetrate the furring.
Corner and framing moulding with a thickness of
a) Stapling line
32 mm (1¼ in) and battens require the use of a nail
at least 64 mm (2½ in) long, which will penetrate
through the furring. Staple
positioning

b) Concealed by the board above

FIGURE 21 • Fastener location for staples on cladding

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 Cladding with visible fasteners (nails with heads) For moulding, one single fastener point is recom-
Cladding with visible fasteners with length varying be- mended when the width is under 50 mm (2 in), and two
tween 100 and 150 mm (4 and 6 in) must be nailed fastener points are necessary for widths greater than
around 25 mm (1 in) from the base of the cladding 50 mm (2 in), with each point located about 19 mm
boards with one fastener (1 nail) per furring strip. The (3/4 in) from the edge. For all widths, fastener points
nail must penetrate through the full cladding thick- should ideally be spaced 400 mm (16 in) apart or less.
ness and be far enough from the lower lip to prevent
splitting. ≤ 25 mm
(1 in)
When the cladding has a width of 200 m (8 in) or more,
at least one more fastener is required. There are there-
fore at least two nails per board on each furring.
≤ 25 mm
Refer to the manufacturer’s installation guide for more (1 in) 19 mm ( 3/4 in)
details regarding the number and location of fasteners
depending on the different shapes.

> 50 mm
(2 in)
< 50 mm
(2 in)
19 mm ( 3/4 in)

± 25 mm (1 in) FIGURE 23 • Fastener location for nails on moulding

2.6.4 Proper installation of fastener

For optimal cladding performance, it is important to
follow these instructions:
• Head (or crown) penetration
a) 100 and 152 mm (4 to 6 in) cladding
The nail heads or staple bases must rest on the wood
and must not penetrate the surface, because then the
± 75 mm (3 in) perforation becomes a leakage point and weakens
the board attachment.
• Press the cladding board in well before
fastening it.
• Avoid stapling or nailing too close to the edges
to prevent wood splitting.
± 25 mm (1 in) • It is sometimes ideal to pre-drill cladding to
attach boards when the fastener is too close
to the edge or one end.

b) Cladding 203 mm (8 in) or larger

FIGURE 22 • Fastener location for nails on cladding

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 a) Nails b) Staples
FIGURE 24 • Fastener penetration

2.7 Installing cladding Base of wall and first row

7a - With ventilated metal starting grille:
- Install the metal grille on all walls to be cove­
red in cladding following the reference line,
making sure that it overlaps the concrete
foundation by 25 mm (1 in) (Figure 13).
- Install the first row of cladding by pressing
it into the metal moulding with the tongue
side facing up.
7b - Without ventilated metal starting grille:
- Using a stapler, install the screen by
inserting it under the furring strips and
folding it over.
- Install the first cladding board following
the reference line.
2.7.1 Installing horizontal cladding
- The cladding board must overlap the
1- With a laser level, locate the reference line to cover concrete foundation by 25 mm (1 in).
the lowest point on the walls to be covered.
7c - With horizontal wood finish moulding:
2- Mark this reference line on the full perimeter - Install the screen or metal grille as
of the building and copy it higher on the wall described above by inserting it under
as a reference for installing cladding boards. the furring strips and folding it over.
If the building has more than one floor, transfer
- Install the horizontal wood finish moulding
the reference line throughout the installation.
following the reference line. The moulding
3- Install inside and outside corner mouldings must overlap the concrete foundation by
by aligning their base on the reference line. 1 in (25 mm).
Note: some installers will prefer to use temporary - Install flashing to protect the flat surface of
pieces instead of permanent mouldings, which the horizontal wood finish moulding. Make
are installed at the end. sure to leave a clearance of 10 mm (3/8 in)
between the horizontal surface of the
4- Install framing mouldings (doors, windows, flashing and the ends of the vertical boards.
other). This clearance space must be free of
5- Install all required flashing (section 1.4). sealant or any other obstruction.
Refer to finish mouldings at the top
6- For every section of the wall that needs clad- of openings (Figure 9).
ding, spread out boards based on the board
lengths available. This will help you minimize 8- Mark the corners of the adjacent walls every
waste and produce a better appearance 4 rows, all the way up to the top of the wall.
(section 2.3). These markings will ensure that the rows will
align from one wall to the next.

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Second Edition 19
 Once the starting grille and first row have been 5- Install all required flashing (Section 1.4).
installed levelly on all of the walls, proceed wall 6- For every section of the wall that needs cladding,
by wall: spread out boards based on the board lengths
9- Install the next 3 rows. available. This will help you minimize waste and
produce a better appearance (Section 2.3).
10- Check the level compared to the reference line
and adjust as needed. 7- On the lowest horizontal furring strip and on a
furring strip at 2/3 of the height for the section
Note: If an adjustment is necessary, spread out
requiring cladding, make a mark to check the
the correction over the next 4 rows. Never make
alignment every four rows.
a correction over a single row.
11- Repeat the above by group of 4 rows, checking Wall base
the level with each group 8a- With ventilated metal starting grille:
Top of wall - Install the starting metal grille on all walls
to be covered in cladding following the
12- Install a device to break up the contiguity
reference line, making sure that it overlaps
between the air space and the under-roof
the concrete foundation by 25 mm (1 in)
air space. See section 2.2, Figure 14 as well
(Figure 13).
as the manufacturer installation guides for
more details. 8b- Without ventilated metal starting grille:
13- Install the ventilated metal grille or screen. - Using a stapler, install the screen by
14- Cut the final cladding board width-wise inserting it under the furring strips and
to maintain an opening of 10 mm at the top folding it over.
of the wall. Use nails to fasten the top of the 8c- With horizontal wood finish moulding:
strip of cladding.
- Install the screen or metal grille as de-
Note: it is possible to add a finish metal or wood scribed above by inserting it under the
moulding (grille) to hide this opening if desired. furring strips and folding it over.
15- Install a finish drip (flashing) to stop rainwater - Install the horizontal wood finish moulding
ingress if the eaves are shorter than four times following the reference line. The moulding
the space of the opening (Figure 14). must overlap the concrete foundation by
Note: since the recommended opening is 1 in (25 mm).
10 mm (3/8 in), a finish drop is necessary - Install flashing to protect the flat surface of the
if the eaves are shorter than 40 mm (1 1/2 in). horizontal wood finish moulding. Make sure to
16- Complete the other walls. leave a clearance of 10 mm (3/8 in) between
17- Touch up and apply sealant to appropriate the horizontal surface of the flashing and the
locations (sections 2.5 and 2.8). ends of the vertical boards. This clearance
space must be free of sealant or any other
obstruction. Refer to finish mouldings at the
2.7.2 Installing vertical cladding top of openings (Figure 9).
(tongue and groove or lap) Top of wall
1- With a laser level, locate the reference line 9- Install a device to break up the contiguity
to cover the lowest point on the walls to be between the air space and the under-roof air
covered. space. See section 2.2, Figure 14 as well as the
2- Mark this reference line along the full building manufacturer installation guides for more details.
perimeter. 10- Install the anti-rodent metal grille or screen.
3- Install interior corner mouldings by aligning 11- Cut the ends of the vertical cladding boards
their base with the reference line. to maintain an opening of 10 mm at the top
4- Install framing mouldings (doors, windows, of the wall.
other).

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12- Install a finish drip (flashing) to stop rainwater 2.8 Sealant
ingress if the eaves are shorter than four times
the space of the opening (Figure 14).
Note: since the recommended opening
is 10 mm (3/8 in), a finish drip is necessary
if the eaves are shorter than 40 mm (1 1/2 in).
First row
13- Ideally, determine the direction of dominant winds
and direct each board so that the tongues face
the wind to minimize the risk of rainwater entering
the grooves.
14- Cut the cladding boards to maintain an opening
of 10 mm at the top of the wall.
15- Cut the bottom of the boards at a maximum 2.8.1 Sealant’s role
angle of about 15 degrees to allow for water
to run off towards the exterior. To limit the risk of leaks, a sealant must be used. The
sealant acts as the first protection in the rainscreen,
16- Install the first board, making sure it is plumb in combination with the cladding itself, to block all
and fastening it with visible nails. potential water entry.
17- If edges need to be trimmed, make sure
to touch up the stripped wood with the
recommended finish product. 2.8.2 Sealant location
18- Install the next three rows. The sealant must be applied with precaution every-
19- Verify that they are plumb. where that water may enter. This is the case along a
Note: If an adjustment is necessary, spread vertical joint, where the cladding meets the moulding
out the correction over the next 4 rows. (sides of doors, sides of windows, corners).

20- Repeat the above by group of four rows, Remember that proper installation of flashing above
checking the level with each group. openings does not require sealant. Properly installed
flashing blocks potential leaks. However, leave a
Final row 10 mm (3/8 in) space between the cladding and the
21- Cut the edges of the boards that will be on the base of the flashing for good ventilation. If the hori-
corner. Cut them on the tongue side, making zontal covering of the flashing does not hang over the
sure to protect the stripped edges with two underlying element, you must apply a sealant joint
coats of the recommended finish. to prevent water ingress under the flashing. (See ma-
sonry sleeper wall example in section 1.6.)
22- Install the corner board or boards making sure
they are plumb.
23- Complete the other walls.
24- Touch up and apply sealant to appropriate
locations (sections 2.5 and 2.8).

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 2.8.3 Choosing a sealant 2.8.4 Sealant application
There are many sealant products on the market. When applying sealant, always follow the sealant
This guide refers to section 9.27.4.2 of the NBC manufacturer’s recommendations.
for sealant specifications (NRC, 2015). Generally
The sealant bead must adhere correctly to the two sur-
speaking, sealants should be:
faces creating the opening. For openings greater than
• A non-hardening type (flexible) for exterior use 6 mm (1/4 in), it is recommended that you first install
• Selected for their ability to resist the effects a filler product in the opening and then cover it with
of weathering sealant. In addition, the sealant must always be placed
• Compatible with and adhere to the substrate between two parallel, non-perpendicular surfaces.
to which they are applied Sealant is not a permanent solution, and requires regu-
• Free of or have very low levels of volatile organic lar maintenance. If the sealant joints are not inspected
compounds (VOCs) and maintained regularly, they may fail, trap water and
alter the cladding, or even cause more serious mold
and rot issues inside the wall structure.

3 Maintenance
Regular, preventative maintenance is recommended The cladding can be cleaned simply using a water
for cladding in order to preserve its original appear- hose with low pressure and a soft brush, like one used
ance, prevent deterioration and ensure wood longevity. to wash a car body. A mild cleanser may be added,
An annual inspection can serve to check the state of without bleach, ammonia or abrasive elements. As
the cladding and the sealant joints. necessary, cleaners can be tested on a small surface
to make sure they do not damage the cladding. After
washing, it is best to rinse gently with a low-pressure
3.1 Cleaning water hose.
NOTE: Never use a pressure washer.
Some types of wood may let off sap when the cladding
is exposed to hot summer temperatures. To remove
the sap, brush it when dry with a simple, dry non-metal
brush. The white powder produced by brushing can
be rinsed with water using a low-pressure hose. This
cleaning method can be repeated as needed if addi-
tional sap comes out of the wood after several seasons
have gone by. This operation may require minor paint
touch-up.

Annual washing is recommended in order to remove

any grime (mold, dirt, spiderwebs, etc.).

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3.2 Minor maintenance Minor maintenance will be necessary as the seasons
go by after any scratching or impacts for various rea-
Immediately after installing the cladding and then an- sons (bicycle propped up on the siding, stone kicked
nually, it is strongly recommended that you visually up by snow blower, etc.). A visual examination is the
examine surfaces in order to fix areas affected by best way to make required fixes, following the recom-
scratching or splitting following an impact. On any sur- mendations above for touch-ups. However, remember
face with bare wood, apply the finish product provided that the colour of the cladding may fade over time.
by the manufacturer, taking care to limit its application to
the bare area to avoid changing the colour of the rest of If a sealant joint needs a correction, it must be remo­
the cladding. A cotton swab or a thin paintbrush can be ved cleanly without damaging the surface finish. In
used for fine application. The touch-up product must this case, the stripped sections need to be touched
be applied following the manufacturer’s specified con- up before reapplying a bead of sealant.
ditions (e.g. exterior temperature during application,
drying time before second coat, etc.).

9 References
Association des professionnels de la construction et de l’habitation du Québec (APCHQ). 2017.
− Collection of specifications: https://www.apchq.com/documentation/technique/fiches-technique
− Check point collection: https://www.apchq.com/documentation/technique/fiches-de-point-de-controle
National Research Council Canada (NRC). 2012. Supplement to the NBC 2010. Intent Statements.
Published by the Canadian Commission on Building and Fire Codes.
National Research Council Canada
National Research Council Canada (NRC). 2015. The National Building Code 2010 (NBC). Published by the
Canadian Commission on Building and Fire Codes (CCBFC). http://www.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/fra/publications/
centre_codes/2015_code_national_batiment.html

Guide of Best Practices for Installing Solid Wood Cladding

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