West Bengal and Tamilnadu

WEST BENGAL AND TAMILNADU
West Bengal:
1.Kantha Embroidery: This popular technique involves
stitching layers of old or discarded cloth together and
then embroidering intricate designs on them. The
stitching is typically done with coloured threads,
creating vibrant patterns.
2.Batik: Batik is a resist dyeing technique where hot

wax is applied to fabric in specific patterns. The waxed
areas resist the dye, creating intricate designs. West
Bengal is known for its batik work, often done on
cotton and silk fabrics.
3.Block Printing: Block printing involves carving

designs into wooden blocks, which are then dipped in
natural dyes and stamped onto the fabric. This
technique is commonly used to create repetitive patterns
and motifs.
Tamil Nadu:
1. Kalamkari: Kalamkari is a traditional art form that
involves hand-painting or block printing intricate
designs on fabric. Natural dyes, derived from plants and
minerals, are used to create vibrant colours. The fabric
is then treated with a mordant to fix the dyes.
2. Resist Dyeing: Tamil Nadu is renowned for its resist
dyeing techniques, including tie-dye (bandhani), wax
resist (chhapa), and paste resist (kataki). These methods
involve applying a substance to the fabric to resist the
dye, resulting in intricate patterns.
COMMON BETWEEN WESTBENGAL AND

TAMILNADU
In summary, the common themes between West Bengal
and Tamil Nadu include the use of natural dyes derived
from plants, as well as the utilization of resist dyeing
techniques like block printing and tie-dye. Common
natural dyes used in Tamil Nadu include indigo,
madder, and turmeric, while West Bengal employs dyes
like kesu flowers, indigo, and myrobalan. These
traditional practices reflect the cultural heritage and
artistic expressions of these regions.
NATURAL DYE:
Certainly! Natural dyes offer a fascinating range of
colours and are widely used in different regions. If we
consider West Bengal, another commonly used natural
dye is turmeric. It imparts a vibrant yellow colour and
has been used for centuries in textiles and traditional
rituals. In Tamil Nadu, madder root is a popular choice
for dyeing. It yields shades of red and is often utilized
in textile production, particularly for the creation of
vibrant silk fabrics. These natural dyes showcase the
rich cultural heritage and artistic traditions of their
respective regions.
CHEMISTRY BEHIND NATURAL DYE

Natural dyes derive their colour from various chemical
compounds present in plants, roots, or other natural
sources. Let us take a closer look at two common
natural dyes: indigo and turmeric.
Indigo is obtained from the leaves of the indigofera
plant. The active compound responsible for its blue
colour is indigotin. When indigo is mixed with a
reducing agent, such as fructose, it undergoes a
chemical reaction that converts indigotin into a soluble
form called leuco-indigo. This soluble form can
penetrate the fibres of the fabric. Once the fabric is
exposed to air, oxidation occurs, converting leuco-
indigo back into indigotin, which precipitates and
attaches to the fabric fibres. This process creates the
desired blue colour.
Turmeric, on the other hand, contains a group of
chemical compounds called curcuminoids, with
curcumin being the most abundant and responsible for
its yellow colour. Curcumin is soluble in water and can
easily attach to the fabric fibres, imparting the yellow
hue. However, curcumin can be sensitive to pH
changes. Under acidic conditions, it exhibits a reddish-
brown shade, while alkaline conditions result in a more
vibrant yellow colour.
The pH of the dye bath or the fabric itself can influence
the colour outcome. Acidic pH tends to shift the colour
towards the red spectrum, while alkaline pH enhances
the yellow tones. This sensitivity to pH allows for
colour variation and control when dyeing with natural
dyes.
Understanding the chemical compounds in natural dyes
and how they interact with fabrics, as well as the impact
of pH, provides insight into the intricate processes
involved in achieving desired colours and manipulating
dye outcomes.
EXPERIMENT
The fabric to be created
Dyeing techniques:
1. Start with a piece of plain fabric, preferably cotton or
other natural fibre, prewashed to remove any sizing or
impurities.
2. Prepare your resist material, which can be a special

wax called batik wax, beeswax, paraffin wax, or even
soy wax. Melt the wax in a double boiler or a dedicated
wax pot, taking care to handle hot wax safely.
3. Using a brush, tjanting tool, or a canting (a pen-like

tool with a spout), apply the melted wax to create your
desired design on the fabric. The wax acts as a barrier,
preventing dye from penetrating the areas covered.
4. Let the wax cool and harden on the fabric. This will
ensure that it remains in place during the dyeing
process.
5. Prepare your dye bath according to the instructions

provided with the dye of your choice. Select colours
that complement your design.
6. Immerse the fabric into the dye bath, making sure the
areas you want to remain the original colour are
covered with the wax.
7. Follow the dye manufacturer's recommended time for

achieving the desired colour intensity. Stir the fabric
gently to ensure even dye distribution.
8. Once the desired colour is achieved, carefully remove

the fabric from the dye bath and rinse it thoroughly in
cold water to remove excess dye.
9. Allow the fabric to dry completely.
10. Now comes the exciting part. Remove the wax by

ironing the fabric between layers of absorbent paper or
using a hot water bath. The heat or hot water will melt
the wax, and the absorbent material will absorb it,
revealing the dyed design underneath.
11. After removing the wax, gently hand wash the fabric
with a mild detergent to remove any residual wax or
dye.
12. Finally, let your Batik-inspired fabric dry once
again, and it's ready to be used for various creative
projects like clothing, accessories, or wall hangings.
CHEMISTRY IN NATURAL DYEING

TECHNIQUES
Natural dyes contain various chemical compounds that
interact with fabric to create colours. Let us discuss the
chemistry behind two traditional dyeing techniques
used in West Bengal and Tamil Nadu: indigo dyeing and
madder root dyeing.
1. Indigo Dyeing:
Indigo, derived from the indigofera plant, contains the
chemical compound indigotin. When indigo is mixed
with a reducing agent, such as fructose, it undergoes a
chemical reaction. Indigotin is converted into a soluble
form called leuco-indigo, which can penetrate fabric
fibres. Upon exposure to air, leuco-indigo oxidizes back
into indigotin, which precipitates and attaches to the
fabric, resulting in the desired blue colour.
2. Madder Root Dyeing:

Madder root, commonly used in Tamil Nadu, contains
chemical compounds known as anthraquinones,
including alizarin and purpurin. These compounds are
responsible for the red and pink hues obtained from
madder root. When madder root is processed and
extracted, these anthraquinones dissolve in water or
other suitable solvents. Fabrics are then immersed in the
dye bath containing the madder root extract. The
anthraquinones penetrate the fabric fibres and form
chemical bonds, resulting in the characteristic red or
pink colour.
Both indigo dyeing and madder root dyeing

demonstrate the chemical reactions involved in natural
dyeing processes. The interaction between the chemical
compounds in natural dyes and the fabric's fibres allows
for colour absorption and fixation.
Traditional dyeing techniques often involve specific

methods and practices unique to each region. For
example, in West Bengal, resist dyeing techniques like
Batik or block printing may be employed alongside
natural dyes to create intricate patterns and designs on
fabrics. In Tamil Nadu, techniques like tie-dyeing,
known as "Bandhani" or "Pattu Pudavai," are
commonly used with madder root and other natural
dyes to produce vibrant silk textiles.
These traditional dyeing techniques showcase the

cultural heritage and craftsmanship of West Bengal and
Tamil Nadu, where the knowledge of natural dyes and
their chemistry has been passed down through
generations, contributing to the rich textile traditions of
these regions.

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WEST BENGAL AND TAMILNADU

2.Batik: Batik is a resist dyeing technique where hot

3.Block Printing: Block printing involves carving

COMMON BETWEEN WESTBENGAL AND

CHEMISTRY BEHIND NATURAL DYE

2. Prepare your resist material, which can be a special

3. Using a brush, tjanting tool, or a canting (a pen-like

5. Prepare your dye bath according to the instructions

7. Follow the dye manufacturer's recommended time for

8. Once the desired colour is achieved, carefully remove

9. Allow the fabric to dry completely.

10. Now comes the exciting part. Remove the wax by

CHEMISTRY IN NATURAL DYEING

2. Madder Root Dyeing:

Both indigo dyeing and madder root dyeing

Traditional dyeing techniques often involve specific

These traditional dyeing techniques showcase the

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