B&D 01 Poured Concrete

NEW
3rd Edition DVD

INCLUDED
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
MASONRY
& STONEWORK
Updated with
New Products
& Techniques
• Poured Concrete
• Brick & Block
• Natural Stone
• Stucco
DVD
INCLUDED
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO
MASONRY
& STONEWORK
Updated with New Products & Techniques
• Poured Concrete
• Brick & Block
• Natural Stone
• Stucco
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA
www.creativepub.com
Copyright © 2010 President/CEO: Ken Fund
Creative Publishing international, Inc.
400 First Avenue North, Suite 300 Home Improvement Group
Minneapolis, Minnesota 55401
1-800-328-0590 Publisher: Bryan Trandem
www.creativepub.com Managing Editor: Tracy Stanley
All rights reserved Senior Editor: Mark Johanson
Editor: Jennifer Gehlhar
Printed in China
Creative Director: Michele Lanci-Altomare
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Art Direction/Design: Jon Simpson, Brad Springer, James Kegley
The complete guide to masonry & stonework. -- 3rd ed. Lead Photographer: Joel Schnell
p. cm. Set Builder: James Parmeter
Includes index. Production Managers: Linda Halls, Laura Hokkanen
At head of title: Black & Decker.
“Poured concrete, brick & block, natural stone, stucco.” Page Layout Artist: Parlato Design Studio
Summary: “Includes traditional techniques for laying concrete, as well Shop Help: Charles Boldt
as new materials and techniques, such as tumbled concrete pavers, Edition Editor: Kristen Hampshire
acid-etching for colored concrete slabs,and important green paving Copy Editor: Mark Kakkuri
options, such as rain garden arroyos and permeable pavers”-- Proofreader: Leah Noel
Provided by
publisher.
ISBN-13: 978-1-58923-520-5 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 1-58923-520-7 (soft cover)
1. Stonemasonry. I. Black & Decker Corporation (Towson, Md.) II.
Title: Complete guide to masonry and stonework.
TH5401.C655 2010
693’.1--dc22
2009048793
The Complete Guide to Masonry & Stonework

Created by: The Editors of Creative Publishing international, Inc. in cooperation with Black & Decker. Black & Decker® is a trademark of The
Black & Decker Corporation and is used under license.
NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The Publisher
and Black & Decker cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of misuse
of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local Building Department for information on building permits, codes and other laws as they apply to
your project.
Contents
17 18
The Complete Guide to

Masonry & Stonework
36 44
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Gallery of Masonry & Stonework . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
POURED CONCRETE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Concrete Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 56 62
Preparing a Project Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Setting Concrete Posts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
Concrete Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
Poured Footings for Freestanding Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Poured Concrete Walkway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 72
Concrete Steps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56
Entryway Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62
Poured Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
Round Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
Poured Concrete Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 80 94
Poured Concrete Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86
Cast Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94
Kitchen Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
BRICK & BLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 100
Brick & Block Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Dry Block Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
Block Retaining Wall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
Outdoor Kitchen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138
Brick Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 110 138

Contents (Cont.)
150
156
Brick Planter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150
Brick Pillars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152
Brick Archway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156
Brick Wall Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
Mortared Brick Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 164 170
NATURAL STONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169
Natural Stone Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170
Dry Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182
Mortared Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 182
Stone Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188
Arroyo (Dry Streambed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194
Stone Firepit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198
Mortared Flagstone Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202
Flagstone Garden Steps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 194 198
Rock Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212
Stone Moon Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214
Cobblestone Paver Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
Sandset Flagstone Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226

214 219
Pebbled Stepping Stone Path . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232
Zen Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234
DECORATIVE MASONRY FINISHING. . . . . . . . 239
Stamped Concrete Finishes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240
Acid-stained Concrete Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 234

Contents (Cont.)
242 244
250 256
Decorative Concrete Floor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
Stucco Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250
Stone Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256
Mortarless Brick Veneer Siding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262
Tiling a Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 262 268
Tiling Concrete Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
REPAIR & MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283
Repairing Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284
Patching Cracks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
Quick Fixes for Wet Walls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
Renewing an Old Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290
Repairing Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294
Miscellaneous Concrete Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .296
Brick Repairs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298 276
Repairing & Replacing Chimney Caps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .302
Repairing Stonework . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .304
Repairing Stucco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308
Pressure-washing Masonry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310

284
Conversion Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312
Resources. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
Photography Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 298 310

Introduction
M asonry is a popular home building material for many reasons, including its beauty, versatility, and resistance
to fire, earthquakes, and sound transmission. And let’s not forget its remarkable durability. While few of
us imagine that our homes will exist for centuries, when we choose masonry we’re choosing a material that has
precisely that capability. Some of the world’s most venerable masonry structures—the Taj Mahal, the Egyptian
Pyramids, the Colosseum in Rome, the Great Sphinx of Giza—have awed countless generations with their ability
to withstand time.
Poured Concrete introduces you to the tools, materials, and basic techniques necessary for accomplishing
functional and attractive concrete projects. You’ll learn foundation skills that allow you to build projects ranging
from foundations to retaining walls and for inside, a kitchen island countertop. We walk you through each project,
step-by-step, providing illustrative photos to guide the way.
Brick & Block includes projects such as building a brick barbecue and laying a mortared brick patio. You’ll
learn the tools, materials, and skills necessary to complete basic brick projects and sophisticated designs. A
comprehensive section of projects gives you an opportunity to explore the possibilities of brick and block as a
functional, long-lasting, and aesthetically pleasing construction medium.
Natural Stone introduces fresh design interpretations for an age-old material. Versatile and texturally interesting,
natural stone is an increasingly popular landscaping material, and a robust selection of paver materials that
resemble old-world stone are accessible and easy to use in building projects. We’ll show you the various types of
stone, how to choose appropriate material for your project, and techniques you’ll want to master before taking
on the projects in this book. Then, we give you a portfolio of natural stone ideas and step-by-step instructions to
accomplish them at home.
Decorative Masonry Finishing shows you how to add interest to concrete surfaces, install veneer siding, and
accomplish a stucco finish. These skills will help you customize other projects in this book.
Repair & Maintenance teaches you how to make quick fixes and take on more substantial repair projects to
keep your masonry and stonework projects in top condition.
So, dig in! Peruse each section and earmark projects that interest you. You may want to make a priority list—one
project inevitably leads to another. Consider yourself a masonry apprentice learning a time-honored craft and let
us expose you to the hands-on techniques and creative possibilities.
■ 7
Gallery of Masonry & Stonework
I n their raw state, concrete and rocks are about the

most humble building materials you can find. But add
some inspiration and a little hard work, and you’ll be
amazed at the feats that can be accomplished with these
simple products. The projects featured on the following
pages are just a sampling of the beauty of masonry.
Stone slabs placed in a slope create natural garden steps in casual or formal settings.
A natural stone retaining wall and mortared flagstone driveway add structural interest to this home and provide a formal entryway.
8 ■ THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO MASONRY & STONEWORK

Natural clay tile and a clay brick garden wall are separated This stacked stone wall provides the framework for an
by a border of light porcelain tiles. The contrasting porcelain outdoor kitchen. It combines natural and cast stones.
color creates a visual bridge between the slightly differing brick
tones of the patio and wall.
Stucco is a very popular and highly durable siding product Blocks, pavers, and natural stone all find a home in this
that is created using modified masonry materials, tools, landscape. Included are two retaining walls (one cut stone,
and techniques. one interlocking block with cast capstones), a concrete paver
walkway, and well-chosen landscape boulders.
Gallery of Masonry & Stonework ■ 9

Terracing is a landscaping technique in which a series of retaining walls are built to break up a slope into small, flat areas.
Cast cobble stones emulate the look Cast concrete can be formed into a Poured concrete sidewalks don’t
of natural stone paving, with tumbled host of useful and decorative items for need to be straight and uniform. Curves
surfaces and random coloration. They the garden, such as this planter cast in a go a long way toward visually softening
are usually laid in regular patterns. 5-gallon bucket. this rock-hard material.

Veneer stone has a refined, timeless appearance that is a very convincing imitation of natural stone. Because the manmade product
weighs less than natural stone and is engineered for ease of installation, it is a very practical solution for siding your home.
Brick veneer transforms these

cast concrete column bases from
unremarkable to elegant. The resulting
posts have the strength and durability of
concrete and the beauty of brick.

The massive presence of concrete is used to great design advantage in the cast concrete elements found in the patio and fireplace
above. The simple lines and monochromatic tones give the patio a contemporary feel.
Concrete pavers in various sizes and shapes add visual appeal when used in stairs and as planters.

Cast stepping stones allow landscapers to apply creative touches to the otherwise plain concrete gray tones. In this case, the gaps
between stepping stones are filled with crushed gravel.

The exposed aggregate squares in this concrete patio take on the look of high-end landscape design because they are
separated into a grid bordered by brick pavers.

Curves and nonlinear designs add great visual interest and A stairway landing is used to create a resting place and to
create natural stopping points near landscape features. allow you to adjust the stairway design so all of the treads are
the same depth.
Cut flagstone patios and walkways are more formal in appearance and easier to walk on than surfaces made with uncut flags.

Poured Concrete
P oured concrete is versatile, sturdy, and highly
functional for walkways, foundations, and even
decorative features like garden steps. Concrete is
back-to-the-basics—a standard material because of
its weather-ready qualities and ability to stand the
test of time. Plus, with today’s creative applications
for poured concrete you’ll enjoy customizing a slab,
experimenting with casting, and learning how to pour
structures that will enhance your living environment.
In this chapter:
• Concrete Basics
• Preparing a Project Site
• Setting Concrete Posts
• Concrete Piers
• Poured Footings for Freestanding Walls
• Poured Concrete Walkway
• Concrete Steps
• Entryway Steps
• Poured Concrete Slab
• Round Patio
• Poured Concrete Wall
• Poured Concrete Retaining Wall
• Cast Concrete
• Kitchen Island Countertop
■ 17
Poured concrete might not be the first material that comes to mind when dreaming of a new garden wall, but it’s certainly worth
consideration. The versatility of concrete can inspire all sorts of custom creations, such as this retaining wall with a traditional
frame-and-panel effect.

Concrete Basics
D urable, versatile, and economical, poured concrete

can be shaped and finished into a wide variety
of surfaces and structures throughout your home and
Good preparation means fewer delays at critical
moments and leaves you free to focus on placing and
smoothing the concrete—not on staking loose forms
yard. Decorative surfaces and unique appearances can or locating misplaced tools. Before beginning to mix
be produced with exposed aggregate, tints and stains, or pour the concrete, make sure the forms are sturdy
and special stamping tools. enough to stand up to the weight and pressure that
Pouring footings or a foundation is the first step to will be exerted on them and that they are staked and
many hardscape projects, such as fences, walls, sheds, braced well. Forms that are taller than four or five
and decks or gazebos, and is an excellent introduction to inches should be tied with wire. The joints on the
working with concrete. Pouring a small sidewalk or patio forms should be tight enough that the bleed water
is a good way to learn about finishing concrete. It’s best doesn’t run through them.
to save larger projects, such as driveways and large patios, One of the most difficult aspects of finishing
until you are comfortable working with and finishing concrete is recognizing when it’s ready. Many people
concrete and have plenty of assistants on hand to help you. try to rush the process, with disappointing results.
Planning and preparation are the keys to Wait until the bleed water disappears and the concrete
successful concrete projects. Poured concrete yields has hardened somewhat before floating the surface.
the most durable and attractive final finish when it A good rule of thumb is when the footprints you leave
is poured at an air temperature between 50 and 80 are light enough that you can no longer identify the
degrees F and when the finishing steps are completed type of shoes you are wearing, the concrete is ready to
carefully in the order described in the following pages. be worked.
Components of Concrete ▸
Aggregate
Sand
Clean water
Portland cement
The basic ingredients of concrete are the same, whether the concrete is mixed from scratch, purchased premixed,
or delivered by a ready-mix company. Portland cement is the bonding agent. It contains crushed lime, cement, and
other bonding minerals. Sand and a combination of aggregates add volume and strength to the mix. Water activates the
cement, and then evaporates, allowing the concrete to dry into a solid mass. By varying the ratios of the ingredients,
professionals can create concrete with special properties that are suited for specific situations.
Poured Concrete ■ 19
■ Tools & Materials
A A
B
D
B
C
C
Layout and measuring tools for preparing jobsites and Other useful tools include: a carpenter’s square (A), a
installing and leveling concrete forms include a tape measure chalkline (B), a laser level (C), and a combination laser level and
(A), a 4-ft. level (B), and a 2-ft. level (C). stud finder (D).
D
C
E
Landscaping tools for preparing sites for concrete projects include: power auger (A) for digging holes for posts or poles;
pick (B) for excavating hard or rocky soil; weed trimmer (C) for removing brush and weeds before digging; power tamper (D) and
power sod cutter (E) for driveway and other large-scale site preparation; come-along (F) for moving large rocks and other heavy
objects; garden rake (G) for moving small amounts of soil and debris; and posthole digger (H) for when you have just a few holes
to dig.

C
B
C A
Safety tools and equipment include: gloves (A), safety Mixing and pouring tools include: masonry hoe and
glasses (B), particle masks (C), and tall rubber boots (not shown). mortar box (A) for mixing small amounts of concrete; garden
Wear protective gear when handling dry or mixed concrete. These hose and bucket (B) for delivering and measuring water; and
mixes are very alkaline and can burn eyes and skin. When mixing power mixer (C) for mixing medium-sized (between 2 and
dry bagged concrete, a half-mask respirator is good insurance. 4 cu. ft.) loads of concrete.
A
D
C M
E I
F
G
H
L
J K
Finishing tools include: outside corner tool (A); aluminum darby (B) for smoothing screeded concrete; screed board (C) for
striking off placed concrete; long wood float (D); trowel (E); groover (F) for forming control joints; edger (G) for shaping and forming
edges; standard-length wood float (H); square-end trowel (I) for finishing; inside corner tool (J); a steel trowel (K); mason’s trowel (L);
and long-handled bull float (M) for smoothing large slabs.
Bagged concrete mix comes in many
D
formulations. The selection you’re likely
to encounter varies by region and by
time of year, but the basic products most
home centers stock include: all-purpose
B concrete (A, C) for posts, footings, and
C slabs; sand mix (B) for topping and
casting; Portland cement (D) for mixing
with aggregate, sand, and water to make
your own concrete; high/early concrete
A (E) for driveways and other projects
that demand greater shock and crack
resistance; fast-setting concrete (F) for
setting posts and making repairs; specialty
E
blends for specific purposes, such as
countertop mix (G,) which comes premixed
with polyester fibers and additives that
make it suitable for countertops.
F
G
Liquid concrete products are either added

to the concrete mix while blending or applied
after the concrete sets up. Concrete sealer
A B (A) is added to the concrete while liquid for
even coloring that goes all the way through
the material. Dry pigments also may be added
to the wet mixture or scattered onto the
surface of concrete slabs during the troweling
stage. Bonding additive (B) is applied (usually
by roller or sprayer) to protect the concrete
from moisture penetration and to give it a
deeper, wet-look finish. The product seen here
also encourages proper curing when applied
immediately after the concrete dries. Concrete
colorant (C) is added to dry mix instead of
water to make the concrete more elastic and
to help it grab onto old concrete surfaces.
Also called acrylic fortifier or latex bonding
agent, it can be painted onto the old concrete
surfaces, as well as the new, to increase
concrete adhesion. Stucco and mortar color
D (D) can be added to finish coat stucco, mason
C mix, surface-bonding cement, and heavy-duty
masonry coating. It is often premixed with water.

F
C
A
Materials for sub-bases and forms include: lumber (A) and 3" screws (C) for building forms, vegetable oil (B) or a commercial release
agent to make it easier to remove the forms, compactable gravel (D) to improve drainage beneath the poured concrete structure, asphalt-
impregnated fiberboard (E) to keep concrete from bonding with adjoining structures, and stakes (F) for holding the forms in place.
D
A A B
B E
F
C
G
H
Reinforcement materials: Metal rebar (A, B), available Masonry fasteners allow you to mount objects to concrete
in sizes ranging from #2 (1⁄4" diameter) to #5 (5⁄8" diameter) and other masonry surfaces. It is most effective to embed
reinforce concrete slabs, like sidewalks, and masonry walls; the fasteners in fresh concrete so that it cures around the
for broad surfaces, like patios, bolsters (C) support rebar and hardware. Examples include: J-bolt with nuts and washers
wire mesh; wire mesh (D) (sometimes called remesh) is most (A, B); removable T-anchor (C); metal sleeve anchor (D);
common in 6 × 6" grids. compression sleeves (E, G); light-duty plastic anchor sleeve (F);
self-tapping coated steel screws (H).
■ Planning Concrete Projects
There are two basic stages to planning and designing
a concrete project. First is the idea-gathering phase:
Employ a variety of sources to help answer questions
such as “What qualities will make your project
attractive, practical, and durable?” Consider these
goals as you plan. Second, apply the basic standards of
construction to create a sound plan that complies with
local building codes. The projects in this book outline
those processes.
Begin by watching for good ideas wherever you
go. As you walk through your neighborhood, look
for similar projects and observe detail and nuance.
Once you’ve settled on a plan, test the layout by
using a rope or hose to outline the proposed project
areas. Remember that successful structures take into
account size and scale, location, slope and drainage,
reinforcement, material selection, and appearance.
It’s also advisable to take your own level of skills and
experience into account, especially if you haven’t
worked with poured concrete before.
Finally, develop plan drawings for your project. If
it’s a simple project, quick sketches may be adequate.
If permits will be necessary for your project, the
building inspector is likely to request detailed plan
drawings. (Always check with the local building
department early in the planning process.) Either way,
drawings help you recognize and avoid or deal with
challenges inherent to your project.
Make scaled plan drawings using graph paper and drafting Test project layouts before committing to your ideas. Use
tools. Plan drawings help you eliminate design flaws and a rope or hose to outline the area, placing spacers where
accurately estimate material requirements. necessary to maintain accurate, even dimensions.

■ Estimating Concrete
Plan drawings are especially valuable when the time Coverage rates for poured concrete are determined
comes to estimate materials. With your drawing in by the thickness of the slab. The same volume of
hand, calculate the width and length of the project concrete will yield less surface area if the thickness of
in feet, and then multiply the dimensions to get the the slab is increased.
square footage. Measure the thickness in feet (four Unless you need to improve the drainage or
inches thick equals one-third of a foot), and then the soil stability of your building site, the only other
multiply the square footage times the thickness to raw material you’ll need for most pours is sub-base
the get the cubic footage. For example, 1 foot × 3 material, such as compactable gravel. Gravel is
feet × 1⁄3 foot = 1 cubic foot. Twenty-seven cubic normally sold by the cubic yard. For a slab with a
feet equals one cubic yard. four- to six-inch–thick sub-base, one cubic yard of
gravel will cover 60 to 70 square feet of surface.
1 cubic foot Concrete Coverage ▸

Volume Slab thickness Surface area
1 cu. yd. 2" 160 sq. ft.

3 ft. long 1 cu. yd. 3" 110 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 4" 80 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 5" 65 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 6" 55 sq. ft.
1 cu. yd. 8" 40 sq. ft.
This chart shows the relationship between slab thickness,

4” thick
surface area, and volume.
1 ft. wide
Estimate the materials required based on the dimensions of

your project.
Estimating Concrete for Tube Format ▸

Footing Number of 60-lb. bags for Footing Number of 80-lb. bags for
depth each size (diameter of tube) depth each size (diameter of tube)
6" 8" 10" 12" 6" 8" 10" 12"

1 ft. 1 1 2 2 1 ft. 1 1 1 2
2 ft. 1 2 3 4 2 ft. 1 2 2 3
3 ft. 2 3 4 6 3 ft. 2 3 3 4
4 ft. 2 4 5 7 4 ft. 2 3 4 6
This chart shows the number of bags of concrete mix a footing requires.
■ Ordering Concrete
For concrete pours where more than one cubic yard readymix delivered assures that you will be getting
of concrete is required, it usually makes sense to find quality material that is customized for your project.
an alternative to mixing the concrete in small batches. When you contact your local, reputable concrete
In most cases, this means ordering premixed concrete supplier, the first question he or she will ask is “What
(called readymix) and having it delivered in a concrete are you building?” The answer to this (driveway,
truck to your jobsite. This will increase the concrete foundation wall, patio, etc.) allows the supplier
cost considerably, especially for smaller pours of one to design a mixture that has just the right ratios
to two cubic yards (most concrete mixing trucks can of ingredients and admixtures that you need. The
carry up to six cubic yards, but this is more than a concrete is further customized on the day of the pour
DIYer typically can deal with in one shot). The cost as a good supplier will factor in the weather conditions
of the material itself is comparable to buying bagged and the distance from the plant to your house when
concrete and mixing it yourself, but the minimum making the final blend of concrete. The result is a
delivery charge often exceeds the cost of the material custom blend that will almost certainly outperform
and drives up the total cost. anything you can whip up by just adding water. But of
In addition to saving all the time and energy course, the tradeoff is higher cost and the inability to
that is required for mixing concrete by hand, having control the timing of the pour.
For larger pours there really is no good

alternative to having readymix concrete
delivered. Once you factor in the delivery
charges, it costs a good deal more than
mixing your own from bags, but the quality
of the material is consistently superior.
Are You Ready for Delivery? ▸

1. Are all concrete forms built and staked? 8. Do you have at least two heavy-duty wheelbarrows
2. Has reinforcement (rebar or remesh) been placed (and strong helpers to run them) on site?
inside the forms as required? 9. Are trowels, floats, and screeds clean and ready to go?
3. Has clean fill been placed in form as required (mostly 10. Do you have a concrete vibrator rented and on site,
used with steps)? if required?
4. Have forms been treated with a release agent? 11. Have you constructed a ramp for wheelbarrows
5. Have any required permits to block the sidewalk or to scale forms and get inside project area
street been obtained? Ask your concrete supplier for (where required)?
more information. 12. Have you confirmed the delivery time, amounts, and
6. Has a path from the truck parking spot to the project type of concrete with the readymix supplier?
been cleared? 13. VERY IMPORTANT: Have your forms been
7. Have you consulted with the readymix supplier to inspected and approved by your local
determine if wheelbarrows will be necessary? building department?

■ How Much Does Concrete Cost?
The actual costs of buying bagged concrete or having if you use special blends the cost will go upward
concrete mixed and delivered to your site can be hard very fast. High-strength and fast-setting concrete
to predict. Like gasoline or plywood, concrete is a cost about twice as much as general-purpose, and
commodity and is subject to fairly wild price fluctuations special purpose mixtures, such as countertop,
as market conditions change. The costs also vary quite concrete can cost five times as much.
a bit regionally and seasonally. But for the sake of
comparison, here are the results of some recent price
shopping (quotes obtained on the same day in the same READYMIX CONCRETE IN DIY TRAILER
city), along with some notes on each method. Trailer rental: Waived with purchase
Cost of 1⁄2 cubic yard: $117
BAGGED CONCRETE MIXED BY HAND: Cost of 1 cubic yard: $155
Cost of materials: $3.50 per 80 lb. bag
(general-purpose concrete) Notes:
80 lb. bags per cubic yard: 41 • If you will be pulling the trailer with a vehicle
Cost of 1 cubic yard: $143.50 smaller than a full-size pickup, you probably won’t
be allowed to haul more than one half cubic yard
Notes: of mixed concrete at a time. If this means you’ll
• One person mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow or be making multiple trips, be sure to place your
mortar box and working hard can expect to mix one entire order at once so you will be charged the
80-pound bag in about five minutes (or close to three discounted rate for larger orders.
and a half hours per cubic yard if mixing nonstop). If • Freshly mixed concrete is bounced and vibrated in
you are pouring footings or if your project is broken the trailer as it rolls along over the road. A concrete
up into smaller sections, you may be able to mix the mixer on board a concrete truck turns continually,
concrete by hand, especially if you halve the mixing so road vibration does not create a problem. But
time by recruiting a helper and an extra wheelbarrow. in a trailer, separation of the liquid and the heavier
But for large slabs and walls, hand mixing is too slow. solids will occur during transport, weakening the
You will not get consistency of water content, which concrete. If you need to haul the concrete more
can lead to cracking along seams between batches. than 10 or 15 miles, a trailer is not recommended.
Tooling also works better if you can finish the whole
project at one time.
• Electric or gas-powered mixers do save a lot of READYMIX CONCRETE (DELIVERED)
time. A larger gas-powered mixer that can handle Delivery Charge: $100 to $150 on average
three 80-pound bags will yield two cubic feet of Cost of 1 cubic yard: $90
mixed concrete in about five minutes. Total cost: $240 (per-yard cost drops off dramatically
• General-purpose concrete (usually around 3,500 for larger orders)
psi) is relatively inexpensive in bagged form, but
Notes:
• Operator charges: Concrete supplier may add
additional charge for driver time beyond a
minimum allowance of free time (5 or 10 minutes
per yard is typical)
• Customizing your concrete with admixtures such as
air entrainers and accelerants usually doesn’t have
a major impact on the cost of ready mix, as it does
with bagged mixtures. Adding tint to the mixture can
result in a surcharge of 50 percent or more, however.
• Some drivers are happy to jump in and lend a
hand with the work. Others prefer to stay in their
climate-controlled cabs. If you get lucky, that’s
great—but don’t plan on it.
■ Mixing Concrete
When mixing concrete on site, purchase bags of dry
premixed concrete and simply add water. Follow the Tools & Materials ▸
instructions carefully and take note of exactly how much
water you add so the concrete will be uniform from one Power mixer or Bagged concrete mix
batch to the next. Never mix less than a full bag, however, mortar box Clean, fresh water
since key ingredients may have settled to the bottom. Wheelbarrow Mason’s trowel
For smaller projects, mix the concrete in a Masonry hoe
wheelbarrow or mortar box. For larger projects, rent or 5-gal. Bucket
buy a power mixer. Be aware that most power mixers Safety glasses
should not be filled more than half full. Gloves
When mixing concrete, the more water you add, Particle mask
the weaker the concrete will become. For example, if Hammer
you need “slippery” concrete to get into the corners of 2 × 4 lumber
a form, add a latex bonding agent or acrylic fortifier
instead of water. Mix the concrete only until all of the
dry ingredients are moistened; don’t overwork it.
Too dry
Too wet Correct
A good mixture is crucial to any successful concrete project. Properly mixed concrete is damp enough to form in your hand
when you squeeze and dry enough to hold its shape. If the mixture is too dry, the aggregate will be difficult to work and will not
smooth out easily to produce an even, finished appearance. A wet mixture will slide off the trowel and may cause cracking and
other defects in the finished surface.

■ How to Mix Concrete
1 2
Empty premixed concrete bags into a mortar box or Work the material with a hoe, continuing to add water until
wheelbarrow. Form a hollow in the mound of dry mix, and then a pancake batter consistency is achieved. Clear out any dry
pour water into the hollow. Start with 3⁄4 of the estimated water pockets from the corners. Do not overwork the mix. Also, keep
amount per 80-lb. bag. track of how much water you use in the first batch so you will
have a reliable guideline for subsequent batches.
■ Using a Power Mixer

Eye protection
Particle mask or
half-mask respirator
Fill a bucket with 3⁄4 gal. of water for each 80-lb. bag of Add all of the dry ingredients, and then mix for 1 minute.
concrete you will use in the batch for most power mixers, 3 Pour in water as needed until the proper consistency is
bags is a workable amount. Pour in half the water. Before you achieved and mix for 3 to 5 minutes. Pivot the mixing drum
start power-mixing, carefully review the operating instructions to empty the concrete into a wheelbarrow. Rinse out the
for the mixer. drum immediately.
■ Placing Concrete
Placing concrete involves pouring it into forms, and
then leveling and smoothing it with special masonry
tools. Once the surface is smooth and level, control
joints are cut and the edges are rounded. Special
attention to detail in these steps will result in a
professional appearance. Note: If you plan to add a
special finish, read “Curing & Finishing Concrete”
(page 34) before you begin your project. Be sure to
apply a release agent before pouring the concrete.
Tools & Materials ▸

Wheelbarrow Masonry hoe
Shovel Mixed concrete
Lumber Spade
3" screws Hammer
Rebar Concrete vibrator
Sand Float
Moving concrete from the source to the destination
Bucket Groover
represents much of the work in many concrete pours. Make
Gloves Edger sure to plan ahead to create access for wheelbarrows or
Safety glasses ready-mix trucks, and get all of the help you can round up for
the actual pour.
Do not overload your wheelbarrow. Experiment with sand Lay planks over the forms to make a ramp for the
or dry mix to find a comfortable, controllable volume. This also wheelbarrow. Avoid disturbing the building site by using ramp
helps you get a feel for how many wheelbarrow loads it will supports. Make sure you have a flat, stable surface between
take to complete your project. the concrete source and the forms.

■ How to Place Concrete
1 2
Load the wheelbarrow with fresh concrete. Clear a path Pour concrete in evenly spaced loads. Start at the farthest
from the source to the site. Always load wheelbarrows from point from the concrete source, and work your way back. Pour
the front; loading from the side can cause tipping. so concrete is a few inches above the tops of the forms. If
you’re using wood scrap as shims to support a ramp end, be
sure and fasten them together with screws or nails.
3 4
Continue placing concrete, working away from your Distribute concrete evenly in the project area using a masonry
starting point. Do not pour more concrete than you can tool at hoe. Work the concrete with a hoe until it is fairly flat, and the
one time. Monitor the concrete surface to make sure it does surface is slightly above the top of the forms. Remove excess
not harden too much before you can start tooling. concrete from the project area with a shovel. Avoid overworking
the concrete and take care not to disturb reinforcement.
(continued)
5 6
Work a spade blade between the inside edges of the forms Hammer the sides of forms to settle the concrete. This action
and the concrete to remove trapped air bubbles that can draws finer aggregates in the concrete against the forms,
weaken the material. This will help settle the concrete. creating a smoother surface on the sides. This is especially
important when building steps. For larger pours, rent a concrete
vibrator for this job (inset).
7 8
Remove excess concrete with a screed board—a straight Float the surface in an arching motion once bleed water
piece of 2 × 4 lumber or angle iron long enough to rest on disappears. Float with the leading edge of the tool tipped up,
opposite forms. Move the board in a sawing motion, and keep and stop floating as soon as the surface is smooth so you do
it flat as you work. If screeding leaves valleys in the surface, add not overwork the concrete.
fresh concrete in the low areas and screed them to level.

9 Understanding Bleed Water ▸
Draw a groover tool at joint locations after bleed water

has dried. Use a straight 2 × 4 as a guide. You may need to
make several passes to create a smooth control joint. Avoid
digging into the concrete surface with the flat edges of the tool.
Smooth out tool marks with a float once the joint is cut.
Timing is key to an attractive concrete finish. When

10 concrete is poured, the heavy materials gradually
sink, leaving a thin layer of water—known as bleed
water—on the surface. To achieve an attractive
finish, it’s important to let bleed water evaporate
before proceeding with other steps. Follow these
rules to avoid problems:
• Settle and screed the concrete and add

control joints (steps 9 through 11) immediately
after pouring and before bleed water appears.
Otherwise, crazing, spalling, and other flaws
are likely.
• Let bleed water dry before floating or
edging. Concrete should be hard enough
that foot pressure leaves no more than a
1
⁄4"-deep impression.
• Do not overfloat the concrete; it may cause
bleed water to reappear. Stop floating if a
sheen appears and resume when it is gone.
Shape concrete with an edging tool, smoothing between the

Note: Bleed water may not appear with air-entrained
forms and concrete to create a finished appearance. Make several
concrete, which is used in regions where temperatures
passes if necessary and use a float to smooth out any marks left
by the groover or edger. Note: Cutting a radiused profile in the often fall below freezing.
edges also prevents concrete from cracking and chipping.
■ Curing & Finishing Concrete
Concrete that is exposed, such as for patios and of times a day to slow down the process. Concrete that
sidewalks, requires a good finish for project success. dries too fast can crack. However, most professionals
Creating the final finish may be as simple as troweling today have recognized that covering the concrete often
the surface and letting it dry. Or, you may choose causes more problems than it prevents. So they are less
to do something a little more decorative, such as an likely to cover the concrete, preferring instead to treat it
acid stain, a broomed antiskid surface, or exposed with a curing or sealing agent once it sets up, or simply
aggregate. Some of the fancier finishes you can do to let it dry naturally in the open air.
with concrete are covered in the Decorative Masonry
Finishing chapter. Because it is done when the
concrete is still wet, we’ve included some information
on exposed aggregate finishes here. Tools & Materials ▸
Once the fresh concrete has been edged and the
control joints have been cut, it needs to dry for a period Broom Plastic sheeting
of time before any surface finishing, such as brooming Wheelbarrow Aggregate
or exposing aggregate, can be done. After that, it should Shovel Water
dry overnight before any forms are removed. Finally, Magnesium float 2 × 4 lumber
it should cure for three to seven days, or even longer Groover Screed board
depending on the type of concrete, the conditions, Edger Muriatic acid
and the nature of the project. Traditionally, concrete is Hose Work gloves and
covered with burlap or sheet plastic for the drying and Coarse brush eye protection
curing phases, and the surface is dampened a couple
Tip for a Broomed Finish ▸
For a nonslip finish, tool the concrete and then draw a clean stiff-bristle broom across the surface once the concrete is
thumbprint hard. Wait until concrete is firm to the touch to achieve a finer texture and a more weather-resistant surface.
Make sure all strokes are made in the same direction and avoid overlapping.

■ How to Create an Exposed Aggregate Finish
Exposed aggregate finishes provide a rugged, nonskid into a landscape featuring natural stone. Chose from
surface that is resistant to heavy traffic and extreme a wide variety of decorative aggregate to achieve
weather. This effect helps the concrete surface blend different finishes.
1 2
Place the concrete. After smoothing the surface with a Pat the aggregate down with the screed board, and then
screed board, let any bleed water disappear; then spread float the surface with a magnesium float until a thin layer of
clean, washed aggregate evenly with a shovel or by hand. concrete covers the stones. Do not overfloat. If bleed water
Spread smaller aggregate (up to 1" in dia.) in a single layer; for appears, stop floating and let it dry before completing the step.
larger aggregate, maintain a separation between stones that is If you are seeding a large area, cover it with plastic to keep the
roughly equal to the size of one stone. concrete from hardening too quickly.
3 4
Cut control joints and tool the edges. Let concrete set for 30 Rinse the concrete surface with a hose after it has cured
to 60 minutes, and then mist a section of the surface and scrub for one week and covering is removed. If a residue remains, try
with a brush to remove the concrete covering the aggregate. If scrubbing it clean. If scrubbing is ineffective, wash the surface
brushing dislodges some of the stones, reset them and try again with a muriatic acid solution, and then rinse immediately and
later. When you can scrub without dislodging stones, mist and thoroughly with water.
scrub the entire surface to expose the aggregate. Rinse clean. Do
not let the concrete dry too long, or it will be difficult to scrub off.
Preparing a Project Site
The first stage of any poured concrete project is to Proper site preparation depends on the project and
prepare the project site. The basic steps include site. Plan on a sub-base of compactible gravel. Some
the following: projects require footings that extend past the frost line,
while others, such as sidewalks, do not. Consult your
1. Lay out the project using stakes and strings. local building inspector about the specific requirements
2. Clear the project area and remove the sod. of your project.
3. Excavate the site to allow for a sub-base and If your yard slopes more than one inch per foot, you
footings (if necessary) and concrete. may need to add or remove soil to level the surface. A
4. Lay a sub-base for drainage and stability and landscape engineer or building inspector can advise you
pour footings (if necessary). on how to prepare a sloping project site.
5. Build and install reinforced wood forms.

Rope Sod cutter Drill Asphalt-impregnated
Carpenter’s square Straightedge Lumber (2 × 4, 1 × 4) fiber board
Hand maul Level 3" Screws Wood stakes
Tape measure Wheelbarrow Compactable gravel Work gloves
Mason’s string Shovel Vegetable oil Common nails
Line level Hand tamper or commercial
Spade Circular saw release agent
Good site preparation is one of the keys to a successful project. Patience and attention to detail when excavating, building
forms, and establishing a sub-base help ensure that your finished project is level and stable and will last for many years.

■ How to Prepare the Site
1 2
Measure the slope of the building site to determine if you need to do grading work Dig a test hole to the planned depth
before you start your project. First, drive stakes at each end of the project area. so you can evaluate the soil conditions
Attach a mason’s string between the stakes and use a line level to set it at level. and get a better idea of how easy the
At each stake, measure from the string to the ground. The difference between the excavation will be. Sandy or loose
measurements (in inches) divided by the distance between stakes (in feet) will give soil may require amending; consult a
you the slope (in inches per foot). If the slope is greater than 1" per foot, you may landscape engineer.
need to regrade the site.
3 4 Isolation joint
Shown cut away
Shown cut away
Compactable gravel sub-base
Add a compactable gravel sub-base to provide a level, When pouring concrete next to structures, glue a
stable foundation for the concrete. For most building projects, 1
⁄2"-thick piece of asphalt-impregnated fiber board to the
pour a layer of compactable gravel about 4 to 6" thick, and use adjoining structure to keep the concrete from bonding with
a tamper to compress it to 4". the structure. The board creates an isolation joint, allowing
the structures to move independently and minimizing the risk
of damage.
■ How to Lay Out & Excavate the Site
1 2
3 .ft.
4 ft.
5 ft.
Lay out a rough project outline with a rope or hose. Use Connect the stakes with mason’s strings. The strings
a carpenter’s square to set perpendicular lines. To create the should follow the actual project outlines. To make sure the
actual layout, begin by driving wood stakes near each corner strings are square, use the 3-4-5 triangle method: Measure
of the rough layout. The goal is to arrange the stakes so they and mark points 3 ft. out from one corner along one string
are outside the actual project area, but in alignment with the and 4 ft. out along the intersecting string at the corner.
borders of the project. Where possible, use two stakes set back Measure between the points, and adjust the positions of the
1 ft. from each corner, so strings intersect to mark each corner strings until the distance between the points is exactly 5 ft.
(below). Note: In projects built next to permanent structures, A helper will make this easier.
the structure will define one project side.
3 4
Line level
Reset the stakes, if necessary, to conform to the positions of Attach a line level to one of the mason’s strings to use as a
the squared strings. Check all corners with the 3-4-5 method, reference. Adjust the string up or down as necessary until it is
and adjust until the entire project area is exactly square. This level. Adjust the other strings until they are level, making sure
can be a lengthy process with plenty of trial and error, but it is that intersecting strings contact one another. This ensures that
very important to the success of the project, especially if you they are all at the same height relative to ground level.
plan to build on the concrete surface.

5 6
Level line
Slope line
Shift mason’s strings on opposite sides of the project Start excavating by removing the sod. Use a sod cutter if
downward on their stakes (the lower end should be farther you wish to reuse the sod elsewhere in your yard (lay the sod
away from the house). Most concrete surfaces should have as soon as possible). Otherwise, use a square-end spade to
a slight slope to direct water runoff, especially if the surface cut away sod. Strip off the sod at least 6" beyond the mason’s
is near your house. To create a standard slope of 1⁄8" per foot, strings to make room for 2 × 4 forms. You may need to remove
multiply the distance between the stakes on one side (in feet) the strings temporarily for this step.
by 1⁄8. For example, if the stakes were 10 ft. apart, the result
would be 10⁄8 (11⁄4"). You would move the strings down 11⁄4" on
the stakes on the low ends.
7 8
Make a story pole as a guide for excavating the site. First, measure down to ground Lay a sub-base for the project (unless
level from the high end of a slope line. Add 71⁄2" to that distance (4" for the sub- your project requires a frost footing). Pour
base material and 31⁄2" for the concrete if you are using 2 × 4 forms). Mark the total a 5"-thick layer of compactable gravel in
distance on the story pole, measuring from one end. Remove soil from the site with a the project site, and tamp until the gravel
spade. Use the story pole to make sure the bottom of the site is consistent (the same is even and compressed to 4" in depth.
distance from the slope line at all points) as you dig. Check points at the center of the Note: The sub-base should extend at
site using a straightedge and a level placed on top of the soil. least 6" beyond the project outline.
■ How to Build & Install Wood Forms
1 2 3
A form is a frame, usually made from Use the mason’s strings that outline Cut several pieces of 2 × 4 at least
2 × 4 lumber, laid around a project the project as a reference for setting 12" long to use as stakes. Trim one end
site to contain poured concrete and form boards in place. Starting with the of each stake to a sharp point. Drive the
establish its thickness. Cut 2 × 4s to longest form board, position the boards stakes at 3-ft. intervals at the outside
create a frame with inside dimensions so the inside edges are directly below edges of the form boards, positioned to
equal to the total size of the project. the strings. support any joints in the form boards.
4 5
Drive 3" deck screws through the stakes and into the form Once the forms are staked and leveled, drive 3" deck
board on one side. Set a level so it spans the staked side of screws at the corners. Coat the insides of the forms with
the form and the opposite form board, and use the level as a vegetable oil or a commercial release agent so concrete won’t
guide as you stake the second form board so it is level with the bond to them. Tip: Tack nails to the outsides of the forms to
first. For large projects, use the mason’s strings as the primary mark locations for control joints at intervals roughly 11⁄2 times
guide for setting the height of all form boards. the slab’s width (but no more than 30 times its thickness).

Variations for Building Forms ▸
Straight forms made from dimensional lumber do not standard wood forms for the tops of footings for building
work for every concrete project. Use ⁄4"-thick plywood
3
with brick or block when the footing will be visible.
for building taller forms for projects such as concrete Create curves with hardboard, siding or other thin,
steps or walls. Use the earth as a form when building flexible sheet stock attached at the inside corners of a
footings for poured concrete building projects. Use form frame.
Braces
1
⁄ 8" hardboard
Tips for Working with Rebar & Remesh ▸
Cut rebar with a reciprocating saw Overlap joints in rebar by at least Leave at least 1" of clearance
that is equipped with a metal-cutting 12", and then bind the ends together between the forms and the edges
blade (cutting rebar with a hacksaw with heavy-gauge wire. Overlap or ends of metal reinforcement. Use
can take 5 to 10 minutes per cut). seams in wire mesh reinforcement bolsters or small chunks of concrete
Use bolt cutters to cut wire mesh. by 12". to raise remesh reinforcement off
the sub-base, but make sure it is at
least 2" below the tops of the forms.
Setting Concrete Posts
E ven among professional landscapers, you’ll

find widely differing practices for setting fence
posts. Some take the always-overbuild approach
don’t bother. The posts may be set all at once, prior
to installing the stringers and siding; or, they may
be set one-at-a-time in a build-as-you-go approach.
and set every post in concrete that extends a foot Ultimately, the decision of whether to set posts in
past the frost line. Others prefer the adjustability concrete comes down to weight of the panels, as
and improved drainage you get when setting posts well as where they fall in the fence layout. At the
in packed sand or gravel. Some treat the post ends very least, gate posts and corner posts should be set
with preservative before setting the posts, others into concrete.

Shovel Post lumber (4 × 4)
Posthole digger or 2 × 4 lumber
gas-powered auger Screws
Digging bar auger Wood sealer
Tube form Hand tamper (for wood posts)
Saw Plumb bob
Width = 3x Drill Mason’s string
post size
Maul Paint brush
6" gravel Level Waxed paper
layer for Gravel
drainage Trowel Gloves and eye
Depth = 1⁄ 3 – 1⁄ 2 Option for sandy or
of post height loose soil Gravel protection
above ground
Concrete mix
When setting posts for fences, one way to ensure that To preserve post ends, treat fence posts with wood
post spacing is exactly correct is to assemble the fence panels preservative before setting them into the ground or into
and posts prior to digging the postholes. Then, you can lay the concrete. These chemicals may be applied with a brush or, if
fence section or sections in place and mark post locations you are setting a lot of posts, by dipping them directly into a
exactly where the posts will hit. Level and brace the structure container. Most wood preservatives are quite toxic so follow all
and fill in the concrete. safety precautions and handling recommendations.

■ How to Set a Post in Concrete
1 2
Dig a hole that is three times wider Option: Use a gas-powered auger if Pour 6" of loose gravel into the
than the post width (or diameter) and you are digging several postholes— bottom of the hole to create drainage.
as deep as 1⁄3 the post length, plus 6". especially if you need to dig deeper Tamp the gravel, using a hand tamper or
Use a posthole digger for most of the than 20 to 24" (the depth at which wood post.
digging and a digging bar to dislodge posthole diggers become ineffective).
rocks and loosen compacted soil.
3 4
Set the post in the hole. Attach wood braces to two Mix all-purpose concrete and pour it into the hole,
adjacent faces of the post. Check for plumb, then drive a overfilling it slightly. Tamp the concrete down with the butt
stake into the ground near the end of each brace, and attach end of a 2 × 4 to settle it into the posthole. TIP: Mask the post
the ends of the braces to the stakes. temporarily with waxed paper before adding concrete to
protect the wood from discoloration and staining. Use a small
trowel to smooth the concrete and form a slight crown.
Concrete Piers
C oncrete pier footings support the weight of

outdoor structures, such as decks and pergolas.
Check local codes to determine the size and depth
of pier footings required in your area. In cold Power auger or Concrete tube forms
climates, footings must be deeper than the soil posthole digger Concrete mix
frost line. Tape measure J-bolts or masonry
To help protect posts from water damage, each Shovel anchors
footing should be poured so that it is 2" above ground Reciprocating saw Scrap 2 × 4
level. Tube-shaped forms let you extend the footings or handsaw Gravel
above ground level. Torpedo level Speed square
As an alternative to inserting J-bolts into wet Hoe Shop vac
concrete, you can use masonry anchors or install anchor Trowel Masking tape
bolts with an epoxy designed for masonry installations. Hammer drill Epoxy
Before digging, consult local utilities for the Shovel Gloves and eye
location of any underground electrical, telephone, or Utility knife protection
water lines that might interfere with footings. Wheelbarrow
■ How to Pour Concrete Piers

1 2 3
To install tube forms for concrete Slowly pour concrete into the tube, Level the concrete by pulling a wood
piers, dig holes with a posthole digger guiding concrete from the wheelbarrow scrap across the top of the tube form
or power auger. Pour 4 to 6" of gravel with a shovel. Fill about half of the form. using a sawing motion. Add concrete to
in the bottom for drainage, and then Use a long board to tamp the concrete, any low spots.
cut and insert the tube, leaving about filling any air gaps in the footing. Then
2" of tube above ground level. Pack soil finish pouring and tamping concrete
around tubes to hold them in place. into the form.

4 5
Insert a J-bolt into wet cement, lowering it slowly and wiggling Use a torpedo level to make sure the J-bolt is plumb. If
it slightly to eliminate any air gaps. Set the J-bolt so 3⁄4 to 1" is necessary, adjust the bolt and repack concrete. Let concrete
exposed above the concrete. Brush away any wet concrete on dry, and then cut away exposed portion of tube with a utility
the bolt threads. knife (optional).
■ How to Install Anchor Bolts in Epoxy

1 2
Drill a hole for the threaded rod after the pier has cured Wrap masking tape around 3⁄4 to 1" of rod for reference.
at least 48 hours. Locate the bolt locations and drill using a Inject epoxy into hole using the mixing syringe provided by
hammer drill and masonry bit sized to match the rod diameter. the manufacturer. Use enough epoxy so a small amount is
Use a speed square to vertically align the drill, set the depth forced from the hole when the rod is fully inserted. Insert
gauge so the rod will protrude 3⁄4 to 1" above the pier. After the rod immediately; epoxy begins to harden as soon as it is
drilling, clean out debris from the hole using a shop vac. injected. Check the height of the rod, and then allow the epoxy
to cure for 16 to 24 hours. If necessary, trim the rod using a
reciprocating saw with a metal-cutting blade.
Poured Footings for Freestanding Walls
F ootings provide a stable, level base for brick, block,

stone, and poured concrete structures. They
distribute the weight of the structure evenly, prevent
Tips for Planning ▸
• Describe the proposed structure to your local
sinking, and keep structures from moving during
building inspector to find out whether it requires
seasonal freeze-thaw cycles.
a footing and whether the footing needs
The required depth of a footing is usually
reinforcement. In some cases, 8”-thick slab
determined by the frost line, which varies by region.
footings can be used as long as the sub-base
The frost line is the point nearest ground level where
provides plenty of drainage.
the soil does not freeze. In colder climates, it is likely
• Keep footings separate from adjoining structures
to be 48 inches or deeper. Frost footings (footings
by installing an isolation board (page 37).
designed to keep structures from moving during
• For smaller poured concrete projects, consider
freezing temperatures) should extend 12 inches below
pouring the footing and the structure as one unit.
the frost line. Your local building inspector can tell you
• A multi-wall project such as a barbecue may
the frost line depth for your area.
require a floating footing (page 147).
Footings are required by building

code for concrete, stone, brick, and block
structures that adjoin other permanent
structures or that exceed the height
specified by local codes. Frost footings
extend 8 to 12" below the frost line. Slab
footings, which are typically 8" thick, may
be recommended for low, freestanding
structures built using mortar or poured
concrete. Before starting your project,
ask a building inspector about footing
recommendations and requirements for
your area.

Rope Sod cutter Float Vegetable oil
Carpenter’s square Straightedge Drill or release agent
Hand maul Level Concrete mix Stakes
Tape measure Wheelbarrow #3 rebar Tie-rods
Mason’s string Hand tamper 16-gauge wire Eye protetction and
Line level Circular saw 2 × 4 lumber work gloves
Spade Reciprocating saw 3" screws
Shovel Isolation board Compactable gravel

■ Options for Forming Footings
W hen you build footings, make them twice as
wide as the wall or structure they will support.
Footings also should extend at least 12 inches past
will be pouring concrete over the footing. After the
concrete sets up, press 12-inch pieces of rebar six
inches into the concrete. The tie-rods will anchor the
the ends of the project area. Add two tie rods if you footing to the structure it supports.
Sod removed
during construction
2 × 4 forms
Earth forms
Frost line Frost line
Shown cut away Shown cut away
For poured concrete, use the earth as a form. Strip sod from For brick, block, and stone, build level, recessed wood
around the project area, and then strike off the concrete with forms. Rest the screed board on the frames when you strike
a screed board resting on the earth at the edges of the top of off the concrete to create a flat, even surface for stacking
the trench. masonry units.
Wall
Wall width × 2
Add tie-rods
Shown cut away
Make footings twice as wide as the wall or structure they Add tie-rods if you will be pouring concrete over the footing.
will support. They also should extend at least 12" past the ends After the concrete sets up, press 12" sections of rebar 6"
of the project area. into the concrete. The tie-rods will anchor the footing to the
structure it supports.
■ How to Pour a Footing
1 2
Make a rough outline of the footing using a rope or hose. Strip away sod 6" outside the project area on all sides and
Outline the project area with stakes and mason’s string. then excavate the trench for the footing to a depth 12" below
the frost line.
Build and install a 2 × 4 form frame for the footing, aligning Option: Cut an isolation board and glue it to the existing
it with the mason’s strings. Stake the form in place and adjust concrete structures at the point where they meet the new
to level. sidewalk. Steps, foundation walls, driveways, and old sidewalk
sections are examples of structures you’ll need to isolate from
the new concrete.

4
Make two #3 rebar grids to reinforce the footing. For each grid, cut two pieces of #3 rebar 8" shorter than the length of the
footing and two pieces 4" shorter than the depth of the footing. Bind the pieces together with 16-gauge wire, forming a rectangle.
Set the rebar grids upright in the trench, leaving 4" of space between the grids and the walls of the trench. Coat the inside edge of
the form with vegetable oil or commercial release agent.
5 6
Mix and pour concrete, so it reaches Cure the concrete for one week before you build on the footing. Remove the forms
the tops of the forms. Screed the surface and backfill around the edges of the footing.
using a 2 × 4. Float the concrete until it
is smooth and level.
Poured Concrete Walkway
I f you’ve always wanted to try your hand at creating

with concrete, an outdoor walkway is a great project
to start with. The basic elements and construction
steps of a walkway are similar to those of a poured Drill, bits Drywall screws
concrete patio or other landscape slab, but the Circular saw (21⁄2, 31⁄2")
smaller scale of a walkway makes it a much more Sledgehammer 4" wood or deck
manageable project for first-timers. Placing the wet Mason’s string screws
concrete goes faster and you can easily reach the Line level Compactable gravel
center of the surface for finishing from either side of Excavation tools (3⁄4" maximum
the walkway. Bow rake stone size)
Like a patio slab, a poured concrete walkway 2- or 4-ft. level 6 × 6" welded
also makes a good foundation for mortared surface Duct tape wire mesh
materials, such as pavers, stone, and tile. If that’s Plate compactor or Metal rebar
your goal, be sure to account for the thickness of the hand tamp Tie wire
surface material when planning and laying out the Heavy-duty wire or 2" wire bolsters
walkway height. A coarse broomed or scratched finish bolt cutters Isolation board and
on the concrete will help create a strong bond with the Concrete mixing construction
mortar bed of the surface material. tools adhesive
The walkway in this project is a four-inch-thick Shovel Concrete form
by 26-inch-wide concrete slab with a relatively Hammer release agent
fine broom finish for providing slip resistance in Magnesium float 4,000 psi concrete
wet weather. It consists of two straight, 12-foot- Edger (or as required by
long runs connected by a 90-degree elbow. After 1" groover local code)
curing, the walkway can be left bare for a classic, Trowel Clear polyethylene
low-maintenance surface, or it can be colored with Push broom sheeting
a permanent acid stain, and can be sealed or left Lumber (2 × 2, Eye and ear
unsealed, as desired. When planning your walkway 2 × 4) protection
project, consult your city’s building department for
7
⁄16" hardboard siding Sprayer
recommendations and construction requirements. or 1⁄4" lauan for Work gloves
curved forms
Poured concrete walkways can be

designed with straight lines, curves, or
sharp angles. The flat, hardwearing surface
is ideal for frequently traveled paths and
will stand up to heavy equipment and
decades of snow shoveling.

■ Options for Sloping a Walkway
1 2×4 1
⁄4" spacer 4" deck screws ⁄4" spacer
(set on edge)
Curved screed board 2×2

Level line
Slope line
( 1⁄4" per foot)
2 × 4 forms
Straight slope: Set the concrete form Crowned slope: When a walkway does not run near the house foundation, you
lower on one side of the walkway so have the option of crowning the surface so it slopes down to both sides. To make the
the finished surface is flat and slopes crown, construct a curved screed board by cutting a 2 × 2 and 2 × 4 long enough to
downward at a rate of 1⁄4" per foot. rest on both sides of the concrete form. Sandwich the boards together with a 1⁄4"-thick
Always slope the surface away from the spacer at each end, and then fasten the assembly with 4" wood or deck screws
house foundation or, when not near the driven at the center and the ends. Use the board to screed the concrete (see step 7,
house, toward the area best suited to page 32).
accept water runoff.
■ Options for Reinforcing a Walkway
As an alternative to the wire mesh reinforcement used in the following project, you can reinforce a walkway slab with metal
rebar (check with the local building code requirements). For a 3-ft.-wide walkway, lay two sections of #3 rebar spaced evenly inside
the concrete form. Bend the rebar as needed to follow curves or angles. Overlap pieces by 12" and tie them together with tie wire.
Use wire bolsters to suspend the bar in the middle of the slab’s thickness.
■ How to Build a Concrete Walkway
1
Lay out the precise edges of the finished walkway using stakes (or batterboards) and mason’s string (see pages 38 to 39 for
additional help with setting up and using layout strings). Where possible, set stakes 12" or so outside of the walkway edges so
they’re out of the way. Make sure any 90° corners are square using the 3-4-5 measuring technique. Level the strings, and then
lower the strings on one side of the layout to create a downward slope of 1⁄4" per foot (if the walkway will be crowned instead of
sloped to one side, keep all strings level with one another: see page 39). Begin the excavation by cutting away the sod or other
plantings 6" beyond the layout lines on all sides of the site.
2 3
Excavate the site for a 6"-thick gravel sub-base, plus any sub- Cover the site with a 4" layer of compactable gravel,
grade (below ground level) portion of the slab, as desired. Measure and then tamp it thoroughly with a plate compactor. Add 4"
the depth with a story pole against the high-side layout strings, or more of gravel and screed the surface flat, checking with a
and then use a slope gauge to grade the slope. Tamp the soil slope gauge to set the proper grade. Compact the gravel so the
thoroughly with a plate compactor. top surface is 4" below the finished walkway height. Reset the
layout strings at the precise height of the finished walkway.

4 5
Build the concrete form with straight 2 × 4 lumber so the Add curved strips made from hardboard or lauan to create
inside faces of the form are aligned with the strings. Fasten the curved corners, if desired. Secure curved strips by screwing
form boards together with 3 1⁄2" screws. Drive 2 × 4 stakes for them to wood stakes. Recheck the gravel bed inside the
reinforcement behind butt joints. Align the form with the layout concrete form, making sure it is smooth and properly sloped.
strings, and then drive stakes at each corner and every 2 to 3 ft. in
between. Fasten the form to the stakes so the top inside corners
of the form boards are just touching the layout strings. The tops of
the stakes should be just below the tops of the form.
6 7
Lay reinforcing wire mesh over the gravel base, keeping the Place the concrete, starting at the far end of the walkway.
edges 1 to 2" from the insides of the form. Overlap the mesh strips Distribute it around the form (don’t throw it) with a shovel.
by 6" (one square) and tie them together with tie wire. Prop up the As you fill, stab into the concrete with the shovel, and tap a
mesh on 2" wire bolsters (“chairs”) placed every few feet and tied hammer against the back sides of the form to eliminate air
to the mesh with wire. Install isolation board (see page 37) where pockets. Continue until the form is evenly filled, slightly above
the walkway adjoins other slabs or structures. When you’re ready the tops of the form.
for the concrete pour, coat the insides of the form with a release
agent or vegetable oil.
(continued)
8
Immediately screed the surface with a straight 2 × 4: Two people pull the board Option: Cut an isolation board and glue
backward in a side-to-side sawing motion, with the board resting on top of the form. As it to the existing concrete structures
you work, shovel in extra concrete to fill low spots or remove concrete from high spots, at the point where they meet the new
and re-screed. The goal is to create a flat surface that’s level with the top of the form. sidewalk. Steps, foundation walls,
driveways, and old sidewalk sections
are examples of structures you’ll need
to isolate from the new concrete.
9 10
Float the concrete surface with a magnesium float, working Use an edger to shape the side edges of the walkway
back and forth in broad arching strokes. Tip up the leading edge of along the wood form. Carefully run the edger back and forth
the tool slightly to prevent gouging. Stop floating once the surface along the form to create a smooth, rounded corner, lifting the
is relatively smooth and has a wet sheen. Be careful not to over- leading edge of the tool slightly to prevent gouging.
float, indicated by water pooling on the surface. Allow the bleed
water to disappear and the concrete to harden sufficiently (see
page 33).

11 12
Mark the locations of the control joints onto the top edges Cut the control joints with a 1" groover guided by a straight
of the form boards, spacing the joints 11⁄2 times the width of 2 × 4 held (or fastened) across the form at the marked
the walkway. locations. Make several light passes back and forth until the
groove reaches full depth, lifting the leading edge of the tool
to prevent gouging. Remove the guide board once each joint
is complete. Smooth out the tool marks with a trowel or float.
13 14
Create a nonslip surface with a broom. Starting at the far Cure the concrete by misting the walkway with water, and
side edge of the walkway, steadily drag a broom backward over then covering it with clear polyethylene sheeting. Smooth out
the surface in a straight line, using a single pulling motion. Repeat any air pockets (which can cause discoloration), and weight
in single, parallel passes (with minimal or no overlap), and rinse down the sheeting along the edges. Mist the surface and
off the broom bristles after each pass. The stiffer and coarser the reapply the plastic daily for a few days.
broom, the rougher the texture will be.
Concrete Steps Tools & Materials ▸
Tape measure Bolsters
D esigning steps requires some calculations and Sledge hammer Construction adhesive
some trial and error. As long as the design meets Shovel Compactable gravel
safety guidelines, you can adjust elements such as Drill Concrete mix
the landing depth and the dimensions of the steps. Reciprocating saw Fill material
Sketching your plan on paper will make the job easier. Level Exterior-grade 3⁄4"
The single-wall plywood forms seen here are sufficient Mason’s string plywood
for stairs of this size, but if the scale of your project is Hand tamper 2" deck screws
larger, add a second layer to each side prevent bowing Mallet Isolation board
or blow-out. Concrete mixing tools #3 rebar
Before demolishing your old steps, measure them Jigsaw Stakes
to see if they meet safety guidelines. If so, you can Clamps Latex caulk
use them as a reference for your new steps. If not, Ruler or framing square Vegetable oil or
start from scratch so your new steps do not repeat any Float commercial
design errors. Step edger release agent
For steps with more than two risers, you’ll need Broom Eye protection and
to install a handrail. Ask a building inspector about 2 × 4 lumber gloves
other requirements. Steel rebar grid J-bolts
Wire Concrete sealer
New concrete steps give a fresh, clean appearance to your house. And if your old steps are unstable, replacing them with
concrete steps that have a non-skid surface will create a safer living environment.

■ How to Design Steps
1 2
Overall run
Overall rise
Attach a mason’s string to the house foundation, 1" below Measure down from the string to the bottom of the stake
the bottom of the door threshold. Drive a stake where you to determine the overall height, or rise, of the steps. Divide
want the base of the bottom step to fall. Attach the other the overall rise by the estimated number of steps. The rise of
end of the string to the stake and use a line level to level it. each step should be between 6" and 8". For example, if the
Measure the length of the string—this distance is the overall overall rise is 21" and you plan to build three steps, the rise of
depth, or run, of the steps. each step would be 7" (21 divided by 3), which falls within the
recommended safety range for riser height.
3 4
Landing depth
minimum = door + 12" Riser height
6" – 8" Tread depth

Overall rise
10" – 12"
Minimum
landing depth 12"
Overall run
Measure the width of your door Sketch a detailed plan for the steps, keeping these guidelines in mind: Each step
and add at least 12"; this number is the should be 10 to 12" deep, with a riser height between 6 and 8", and the landing
minimum depth you should plan for the should be at least 12" deeper than the swing radius (width) of your door. Adjust the
landing area of the steps. The landing parts of the steps as needed, but stay within the given ranges. Creating a final sketch
depth plus the depth of each step will take time, but it is worth doing carefully.
should fit within the overall run of the
steps. If necessary, you can increase the
overall run by moving the stake at the
planned base of the steps away from
the house, or by increasing the depth
of the landing.
■ How to Build Concrete Steps 2
1
Isolation
board
Remove existing steps; if the old steps are concrete, break Dig 12"-wide trenches to the required depth for footings.
them up and set aside the rubble to use as fill material for the Locate the trenches perpendicular to the foundation, spaced
new steps. Wear protective gear, including eye protection and so the footings will extend 3" beyond the outside edges of
gloves, when demolishing concrete. Tip: A rental jackhammer the steps. Install rebar grids (page 59) for reinforcement. Affix
can shave hours of hard labor from demolishing concrete steps. isolation boards to the foundation wall inside each trench
using a few dabs of construction adhesive (12" below the
permanent frost line).
3 4 5
Mix the concrete and pour the When bleed water disappears, Let the footings dry for two days, and
footings. Level and smooth the concrete insert 12" pieces of rebar 6" into the then excavate the area between them
with a screed board. You do not need to concrete, spaced at 12" intervals and to 4" deep. Pour in a 5"-thick layer of
float the surface afterwards. centered side to side. Leave 1 ft. of clear compactable gravel sub-base and tamp
space at each end. until it is level with the footings.

6 7
Bevel
Make slopes 1⁄ 8" per foot
Transfer the measurements for the side forms from your working sketch onto 3⁄4" Cut form boards for the risers to fit
exterior-grade plywood. Cut out the forms along the cutting lines using a jigsaw. Save between the side forms. Bevel the bottom
time by clamping two pieces of plywood together and cutting both side forms at the edges of the boards when cutting to
same time. Add a 1⁄8" per foot back-to-front slope to the landing part of the form. create clearance for the float at the back
edges of the steps. Attach the riser forms
to the side forms with 2” deck screws.
8 Cleats
9
Riser
support
Cut a 2 × 4 to make a center support for the riser forms. Use Cut an isolation board and glue it to the house foundation
2" deck screws to attach 2 × 4 cleats to the riser forms, and at the back of the project area. Set the form onto the footings,
then attach the support to the cleats. Check to make sure all flush against the isolation board. Add 2 × 4 bracing arms to the
corners are square. sides of the form, attaching them to cleats on the sides and to
stakes driven into the ground.
(continued)
10 11
Fill the form with clean fill (broken concrete or rubble). Stack Lay pieces of #3 rebar on top of the fill at 12" intervals, and
the fill carefully, keeping it 6" away from the sides, back, and attach them to bolsters with wire to keep them from moving
top edges of the form. Shovel smaller fragments onto the pile when the concrete is poured. Keep rebar at least 2" below the
to fill the void areas. This conserves new concrete. top of the forms. Mist the forms and the rubble with water.
12 13
Coat the forms with vegetable oil or a release agent so concrete won’t stick to the Float the steps, working the front
forms. Mix concrete and pour steps one at a time, beginning at the bottom. Settle and edge of the float underneath the
smooth the concrete with a screed board. Press a piece of #3 rebar 1" down into the beveled edge at the bottom of each
“nose” of each tread for reinforcement. riser form.

14 Shown cut away
for clarity
Pour concrete into the forms for the remaining steps and Option: For railings with mounting plates that attach to sunken
the landing. Press rebar into the nose of each step. Keep an J-bolts, install the bolts before the concrete sets (page 45).
eye on the poured concrete as you work, and stop to float any Otherwise, choose railings with surface-mounted hardware
concrete as soon as the bleed water disappears. (see step 16) that can be attached after the steps are completed.
15 16
Mounting
plate
Once the concrete sets, shape the Remove the forms as soon as the surface is firm to the touch, usually within
steps and landing with an edger. Float the several hours. Smooth rough edges with a float. Add concrete to fill any holes. If forms
surface. Finish by brushing with a stiff- are removed later, more patching may be required. Backfill the area around the base
bristled broom for maximum traction. of the steps, and seal the concrete. Install a railing.
Entryway Steps The concrete steps seen here require enough
concrete to make pouring them a fairly big
undertaking, but because the structures they are
integrated with are a retaining wall and a sandset
I ndoors or outdoors, steps undergo a lot of abuse.

Everyday foot traffic, appliance moving, shoveling, and
freeze/thaw cycles are just some of the stresses that can
paver walkway, a full concrete footing that extends
beyond the frost line is not required.
contribute to premature step failure. In short, you want

steps to be durable. And when it comes to durability,
poured concrete is virtually impossible to beat.
Building entryway steps can be a relatively simple
Spud bar Edging tool
landscaping project or it can be a fairly complex home
Shovel Lumber (2 × 4,
remodeling project involving structural engineers
Circular saw 2 × 8)
and building permits. The key variables are the total
Power miter saw Deck screws
height and whether or not the steps are connected
Table saw Concrete release
to a permanent structure with a frost footing. If your
Drill/driver agent
project is simply two or three concrete steps that
Level #3 rebar
solve a slope problem in your yard, the standards are
Tamper Concrete
relatively low and you can probably accomplish the
Bow rake Sheet plastic
project in an afternoon with a couple bags of concrete
Wheelbarrow Sprayer
mix and some gravel. But if your new concrete steps
Float or trowel Concrete stain
will include three or more risers and will serve as the
Compactable gravel Eye protection and
entryway to your house, then you are looking at a fairly
Crushed rock work gloves
major concrete project.
Poured concrete steps are hardworking structures that are at home in just about any setting. If they are freestanding (not
attached to a house), they normally do not require a frost footing.

Freestanding Stairs Form
2 × 4 nailer
2×8 2 × 4 brace
2 × 4 brace
Clean fill
2 × 4 stake
Compactable
gravel
The form for these stairs is built from 2 × 8 lumber, creating risers with a height of 71⁄4"—the actual width of a 2 × 8.
■ How to Pour Concrete Landscape Steps
1 2
Remove any old steps and prepare the building site. If Excavate for the new steps. If you are building next to
the old steps are concrete, you’ll need to break them up first a house, you’ll need to dig down past the frost line to pour
(see page 58). Wood steps, such as the railroad-tie steps seen footings. For larger steps you may find it worth your time to
here, generally can be pried out with a sturdy spud bar. Note: rent a small backhoe or hire an excavation contractor to dig
Before you do any digging, contact your local utilities to have out for the project.
underground lines identified and flagged.
3 4
Prepare a sturdy base for the structure by filling the bottom Create drainage by adding a 6 to 12" layer of 1 to 2"-dia.
of the excavation area with a 4 to 6" layer of compactable gravel crushed rock on top of the compactable gravel. This type of
and then compacting it with a hand tamper or gas-powered rock is not compactable, but you can settle it somewhat by
plate vibrator. The base should extend at least 6" beyond the working it with a bow rake.
area where the forms will be located.

5 6
Cut the form boards. Although 3⁄4" plywood is often used for Assemble the frames. Here, the form for the steps is being
step forms (see pages 59 to 60), 2 × 8 stock is being used here to created by building and squaring four three-sided frames
make the riser forms and the form sides. The 71⁄4" actual width of that are equal in width. The deepest frame is on the bottom,
a 2 × 8 is perfect for an exterior step riser when coupled with an and the others, which decrease in length by 11" each, are
11" tread depth, and the beefy thickness of the dimensional stacked on top of it. When the squared 2 × 8 frames are bound
lumber makes for a sturdier form that requires less reinforcement together, they will create the form.
and is often easier to strip. To create nosing on the steps, cut a 1⁄2
× 11⁄2" rabbet along the top inside edge of each riser form (inset).
7 8
Riser brace
Attach 2 × 4 battens to the sides of the form once the frames Set the fully assembled form into the prepared step
are squared, stacked, and pinned together with nails or screws. In construction area. You’ll need at least one helper for this. Add
addition to binding the frames together, the battens will provide or remove gravel beneath the bottom of the form until the
fastening surfaces for the braces that support the form. Attach bottom is at or slightly below grade.
2 × 4 riser braces to keep the riser boards from bowing outward.
(continued)
9 10
Level and brace the form with 2 × 4 braces that are attached Add clean fill inside the form. Chunks of old concrete are
to stakes on one end and to the sides of the form battens on the perfect for this. The main reason for the clean fill is to conserve
other end. Once the form is level and plumb, reset it so it slopes on the expense of fresh concrete, but it will also assist in drainage
1
⁄8" per foot from the back edge of the top step to the bottom on and lower the likelihood of cracking. Once you have filled the form
the lowest riser (inset). to within (but no closer than) 6" of any surface, dump crushed
gravel onto the top of the pile and let it filter down to fill voids.
11 12
Place reinforcement inside the form. Cut lengths of #3 rebar Begin filling the form with concrete, starting with the bottom
about 8" shorter than the step width. Place the rebar strips on step. Work the concrete with the shovel to help settle out air
top of the clean fill pile so the rocks hold them in place. Position bubbles and rap the form with a mallet for the same purpose.
one length a couple of inches back from each crotch where a Tip: To assure best results, rent a concrete vibrator to settle the
riser meets a tread. Also place a piece so it reinforces the front material into all the crevices and corners. Once you have filled
of each tread, setting it 1" to 2" back and down from the corner. each step, immediately strike off the concrete with a float.

13 14
Smooth the concrete surfaces once the steps are all filled, Profile the tread noses and sides with a concrete edging
working a magnesium float or steel trowel back and forth to level tool. Set bolts or hardware for handrails, if required, into the
the concrete as you smooth it. Let the concrete set until the bleed fresh concrete. You can also attach handrail hardware by
water disappears. drilling holes after the concrete has set. For extra traction,
broom the treads. Tack sheet plastic over the concrete and let
it dry for at least two days.
15 16
Remove the forms and finish the steps if desired. Here, the Backfill around the edges of the steps and install or
concrete has been colored with concrete stain and a coating of replace pathways and landings at the top and bottom of the
penetrating concrete stain is being applied. Secure the handrail landscape steps.
into the stanchions or hardware, if required. Once the coatings
are dry, backfill around the steps.
Poured Concrete Slab
A slab foundation commonly used for garages or

patios is called a slab-on-grade foundation. This
combines a three and a half- to four-inch-thick floor
The slab shown in this project has a three and one
half-inch-thick interior with an eight-inch-wide by eight-
inch-deep footing along the perimeter. The top of the
slab with an 8- to 12-inch-thick perimeter footing that slab sits four inches above ground level (grade). There is
provides extra support. The foundation can be poured a four-inch-thick layer of compacted gravel underneath
at one time using a simple wood form. the slab, and the concrete is reinforced internally with a
Because they sit above ground, slab-on-grade layer of six by six-inch welded wire mesh.
foundations are susceptible to frost heave; in In some areas, you may be required to add more
cold-weather climates they are suitable only for rebar in the perimeter. Check the local code. If this
detached buildings. Specific design requirements foundation will be used as a garage surface, then set
also vary by locality, so check with the local building 8-inch-long J-bolts into the slab along the edges, after
department regarding the depth of the slab, the concrete is poured and finished. These J-bolts are
metal reinforcement required, the type and amount used later to anchor the wall framing to a slab. If this
of gravel required for the sub-base, and whether a foundation will serve as a patio sub-base, consider
plastic or other type of moisture barrier is needed using one of the finishing techniques described on
under the slab. pages 238 to 281.

Work gloves and eye Long level Concrete edging tool Metal mending plates
protection Tape measure Wood or magnesium Rewire mesh
Stakes and boards Drill concrete float Concrete
Mason’s lines Wheelbarrow Paint roller J-bolts
Plumb bob Bull float Compactable gravel Concrete cure and seal
Shovel Concrete groover tool Lumber (2 × 4, 2 × 8) Plate compactor or
Tie wire Release agent 3" deck screws hand tamper
A concrete slab with an adjoining concrete apron and driveway is the most common garage foundation setup. The same
techniques in this project can be applied when pouring a patio or a foundation.

■ How to Pour a Concrete Slab
1 String lines
2" slope toward door 4" concrete

for drainage 6 × 6" reinforcing mesh
Gravel
Hold-down bolts
To 6" below frost line, if required
Begin to lay out the excavation with pairs of batterboards installed at each corner of the garage slab site. Position them about
2 ft. outside the perimeter of the slab area so you’ll have plenty of room to work. Run level mason’s lines between the batterboards
to establish the final size of the slab. Drop a plumb bob down from the intersections of the strings and drive a stake at each corner.
2 3
Excavate the area about 2 ft. wider and longer than the staked Fill the excavation area with 4" of compactable gravel,
size of the slab. The poured slab should slope slightly to facilitate letting it spill down into the 12"-deep footings that frame the
drainage. Remove 3 to 4" of soil from the excavation area, and perimeter. Tamp the gravel level and smooth it with a plate
dig a deeper trench around the perimeter for the footing. The compactor. The gravel surface should maintain the 2" total
outside of the footing should line up with the mason’s lines. back-to-front slope. Depending on your soil conditions, some
Slope the soil to create a transition between the excavated concrete contractors recommend laying 6-mil polyethylene
interior and the footing. Check your local building codes to sheeting over the compacted base to form a moisture barrier.
determine the correct footing size and depth for your climate Tip: Install electrical conduit underneath the slab if you will be
and soil conditions. providing underground electrical service.
(continued)
4 5
Drive woods stakes along the outside of a form (built with Add rewire reinforcement according to the requirements in
2 × 4 lumber), placing stakes at 4-ft. intervals. Place two stakes your area. Here, rows of 6 × 6 wire mesh are set onto spacers
at each corner. Set the tops of stakes flush with the top edges (chunks of brick) in the pour area. Overlap the sheets of mesh
of the form (or slightly below the tops). As you drive in stakes, by 6" and stop the rows about 2" in from the insides of the form.
periodically check the form to be sure it is level and measure Fasten the mesh together with tie wire. Apply a release agent.
from corner to corner to ensure that it’s square. The form
should measure 4" above grade. Attach stakes to the form with
deck screws to hold it in place.
6 7
Pour the concrete. Have ready-mix concrete delivered to Strike off the concrete once a section of a form is filled. The
your job site and place it into the forms with wheelbarrows best way to do this is to have two helpers strike off (screed)
and shovels (make sure to have plenty of help for this job). the wet concrete with a long 2 × 6 or 2 × 8 that spans the
Fill a form with concrete, starting at one end. Use a shovel to width of the form. Drag the screed board back and forth along
settle the concrete around the reinforcement and to remove the top of the form in a sawing motion to level and smooth
air pockets. Fill the form to the top. Note: In most municipalities the concrete. Fill any voids ahead of the screed board with
you must have the forms and sub-base inspected before the shovelfuls of concrete.
concrete is poured.

8 9
Smooth the surface further with a bull float as soon as Push J-bolts down into the concrete, wiggling them slightly to
you’re finished screeding, working across the width of the slab. eliminate air pockets. Twist the bottom hooked ends so they face
Floating forces aggregate down and draws sand and water to into the slab. Position the J-bolts 13⁄4" from the edges of the slab,
the surface to begin the smoothing process. aligned with your layout marks. Leave 21⁄2" of bolt thread exposed,
and make sure the J-bolts are plumb. Smooth the surrounding
concrete with a wooden or magnesium concrete float.
10 11
Use a magnesium or wood hand-held float to refine the Apply a coat of cure and seal product (See Resources, page
slab’s finished surface as soon as the bleed water evaporates. 313) to the surface once it dries so you do not have to water
Work the float back and forth, starting from the middle of the the concrete surface during the curing stage. After a couple of
slab and moving outward to the edges. Use large scraps of days, strip off the forms. Wait at least one more day before you
2"-thick rigid foam insulation as kneeling pads while you work. begin building on the slab.
The moldable nature of poured concrete makes it ideal for creating patios with curves and custom shapes in addition to perfect
squares and rectangles.

Round Patio
F ew outdoor surfaces are as heavy-duty as a properly

poured concrete slab. As a patio material, poured
concrete is tough to beat. The surface is flat, smooth,
house with an isolation board and slope the surface so
water drains away from the foundation. A smaller slab
is much more manageable for amateurs. Larger slabs
easy to clean, and fairly maintenance-free. A concrete often require that you place and tool the wet concrete
slab is also the best foundation for decorative treatments in workable sections, and these steps must continue
like mortared brick, tile, and stone. And if you like the simultaneously until the entire slab is filled and
simplicity and durability of a bare concrete patio, but leveled before the concrete begins to set. Therefore,
flat gray doesn’t suit your design scheme, you can always it’s a good idea to seek guidance and/or assistance
apply an acid stain, dry pigment colors, or concrete paint from a concrete professional if your plans call for a
(rated for exterior use) for custom coloring effects that large patio.
don’t compromise the surface’s performance. Because they are permanent structures, concrete
If you’ve never worked with poured concrete patios are often governed by local building codes and
before, you’ll find that most of the time lies in preparing you might need a permit for your project—especially
the site and building the forms for containing and if the patio abuts a permanent structure. Before you
shaping the wet concrete. Once the concrete is mixed get started, contact your city’s building department
or delivered to your site, time is of the essence, and to learn about permit requirements and general
the best way to ensure quality results is to be prepared construction specifications in your area, including:
with strong forms, the right tools, and an understanding
of each step of the process. And it never hurts to have • Zoning restrictions
help: You’ll need at least two hardworking assistants for • Depth of gravel sub-base
the placing and finishing stages. • Concrete composition
This patio project follows the steps for building a • Slab thickness and slope
small (100 square feet or so) slab that can be poured • Internal reinforcement (wire mesh,
and finished all at once. The patio featured here is rebar, etc.)
a circular, freestanding structure slightly more than • Control joints (see page 35)
10 feet in diameter. If you are building a patio of any • Moisture barrier under slab (not a
shape that abuts your house, always isolate it from the common requirement)
Forming Curves ▸
Creating a smooth curve in a concrete
form can be done by using one of
several different techniques. The
easiest and fastest is to rip-cut strips
of bendable sheet stock, such as
hardboard, lap siding (nonbeveled),
or thin plywood. Use 1⁄4 or 3⁄8"-thick
stock—thinner will flex too much
and thicker is difficult to bend. If you
need greater rigidity without giving
up flexibility, make a curved form by
cutting saw kerfs every inch or so
about halfway into a piece of 1 × 4.
For thicker slabs you may use a 1 × 6.
Control joint
3 1⁄ 2 to 4" concrete
6 to 8" compactable
gravel
6×6 wire remesh
Bolster
7
⁄ 16"-thick
2×4 hardboard siding
stake
Well-constructed forms and properly prepared foundational elements will ensure your slab is structurally sound.

Drill Lawn edger Bull float Isolation board
Circular saw Plumb bob Edger and construction
Hand maul or Plate compactor or 1" groover adhesive
sledgehammer hand tamper Magnesium trowel 4,000 psi concrete
Mason’s string Chalk line Fine-bristled push (or as required by
Stakes Hammer broom (optional) local code)
Marking paint 31⁄2" hardboard lap Lumber (1 × 2, 2 × 4) Sprayer
Line level siding Compactable gravel Clear polyethylene
Excavation tools Heavy-duty wire cutters Screws sheeting
Bow rake or bolt cutters 6 × 6" wire mesh Safety protection
Level Concrete mixing tools Tie wire (per manufacturer
Eye protection and Shovel or masonry hoe 2" wire bolsters recommendations)
gloves Wheelbarrow Release agent

■ How to Build a Round Concrete Patio
1
Establish layout lines for the site excavation using batterboards, mason’s string, and inverted marking paint. Set the lines so they
reach at least 12" beyond the work area on all sides. Eventually, the gravel base should extend 12" beyond the slab. Use two pairs
of perpendicular batterboards with strings to establish the centerpoint of a round patio (where the strings intersect). To create a
rough outline for the patio excavation, drive a stake at the centerpoint and then attach a string to the top of the stake. Tape the
other end of the string to a can of inverted marking paint so the distance from the stake to the can equals the radius of the circle,
including the gravel base; mark the outline.
2 3
Cut the sod on the perimeter of the excavation area to define Excavate the site for a 6- to 8"-thick compactable gravel
where to dig. For better access, first remove the batterboards sub-base plus any subgrade (below ground level) portion of
(or at least the strings). A lawn edger works well for cutting the the slab. If building next to your house, grade the soil so it
outline into the sod (be sure to wear safety equipment). slopes away from the house at 1⁄8" per foot. Measure down
from leveled cross strings with a story pole to gauge the depth
as you work. Compact the soil after grading using a plate
compactor or a hand tamper.
(continued)
Patio Next to a House ▸
If your patio will butt up to a
house or another permanent
structure, you should use the
ground level next to the house
as your starting point for
setting slope and establishing
a patio layout. Snap a
chalk line onto the house
foundation at the precise
elevation of the top of the
finished slab. This should be
1 to 3" below any patio door
threshold. You can use this
line for reference during the
site prep and concrete pour
and finishing.
4 5
Fill the excavation area with a 4"-thick layer of compactable Use a plate compactor to tamp the first 4" of graded
gravel. Use an upside-down bow or garden rake to move the compactable gravel. Add another 2 to 4" layer of gravel until
rock around. Rake the rock until it is level and follows the the top surface is an inch or so above the finished level. Use
grade of the soil base. cross strings and the story pole to make sure the sub-base is
uniform and follows the 1⁄8" per ft. slope. Tamp until the gravel is
compacted and at the correct height relative to your lines.

6
Set level lines for the form height. Replace batterboards and retie the mason’s lines so they are level and at the top height of the
forms. If you are making a circular patio, as seen here, add intermediate stakes between the batterboards and tie lines to divide the
circle into at least eight segments. Drop a plumb bob from the point where the lines intersect and drive a stake at this centerpoint.
Use this stake to create a string compass and redraw the patio outline (inset, see step 1).
7 8 9
Drive stakes for anchoring the forms Install forms. Here, 7⁄16"-thick pieces of Drive stakes behind the forms
around the perimeter of the patio, just hardboard lap siding have been rip-cut anywhere where the strips require
outside the outline. Drive the stakes into 31⁄2" strips to make bendable forms. additional bending or anchoring to
deep enough that they will be beneath Cut each strip long enough to span three follow the round outline. Attach the
the tops of the forms. Use a hand maul stakes as it follows the patio outline. Screw forms to the stakes. Note: If you are
or sledgehammer to drive the stakes. To the strip to the middle stake first, making installing straight 2 × 4 forms, drive
prevent them from splitting, use a scrap sure the top is flush with the layout string. screws through the outsides of the
2 × 4 as a hammer block to absorb the Bend the form to follow the outline and stake and into the forms boards to
blows. Drive a stake at each point where attach it to the other stakes. Check with a make them easier to remove later.
a string intersects the patio outline. level as you install forms.
(continued)
10 11
Lay reinforcing wire mesh over the Place 4,000 psi concrete in the form, starting at the end farthest from the
gravel base, keeping the edges 1 to 2" concrete source. Before pouring, construct access ramps so wheelbarrows can
from the insides of the form. Overlap roll over the forms without damaging them, and coat the insides of the form with
the mesh strips by 6" and tie them a release agent or vegetable oil to prevent the forms from sticking. Distribute the
together with tie wire. Prop up the mesh concrete with a shovel or masonry hoe. As you fill, hammer against the outsides of
on 2" wire bolsters placed every few the forms to eliminate air pockets.
feet and tied to the mesh with wire. If
required, install isolation board along
the house foundation.
12 13
Screed the surface with a long, straight 2 × 4: Have two Float the concrete surface with a bull float: Without
people pull the board backward in a side-to-side sawing applying pressure, push and pull the float in straight, parallel
motion, with the board resting on top of the form. As you work, passes, overlapping each pass slightly with the next. Slightly tip
shovel in extra concrete to fill low spots or remove concrete up the leading edge of the float to prevent gouging the surface.
from high spots and rescreed. The goal is to create a flat Stop floating once the surface is relatively smooth and has
surface that’s level with the top of the form. a wet sheen. Be careful not to overfloat, indicated by water
pooling on the surface. Allow the bleed water to disappear.

14 15
Use an edger to shape all edges of the slab that contact Cut a control joint (if required) using a 1" groover guided by
the wood form. Carefully run the edger back and forth along a straight 2 × 4. In most cases, you’ll need to erect a temporary
the form to create a smooth, rounded corner. Slightly lift the bridge to allow access for cutting in the center of the patio.
leading edge of the tool as needed to prevent gouging. Take great care here. Be sure to cut grooves while concrete is
still workable. Make several light passes back and forth until
the groove reaches full depth, lifting the leading edge of the
tool to prevent gouging.
16 17
Flatten ridges and create a smooth surface with a Cure the concrete by misting the slab with water, then
magnesium trowel. This will create a smooth surface that covering it with a single piece of polyethylene sheeting.
takes a finish well once the concrete has dried. Another Smooth out any air pockets (which can cause discoloration),
finishing option is simply to skip additional floating and let and weight the sheeting along the edges. Mist the slab and
the concrete set up until all the bleed water is gone. Then, reapply the plastic daily for 1 to 2 weeks.
brush lightly with a push broom to create a nonslip
“broomed” surface.
Poured Concrete Wall
B uilding vertically with poured concrete introduces

a whole new dimension to this versatile material.
And as much as walls may seem more challenging than
For help with building a new footing, see pages
48 to 49. The footing should be at least 12 inches
wide (2× wall thickness) and at least six inches thick
slabs or casting projects, the basic building process is (1× wall thickness), and it must extend below the frost
just as simple and straightforward. You construct forms line (or in accordance with the local building code).
using ordinary materials, then fill them with concrete, If your wall will stand on a concrete patio or other
and finish the surface. While tall concrete walls and slab, the sidebar on page 83 shows you how to install
load-bearing structures require careful engineering and rebar in the slab for anchoring the wall.
professional skills, a low partition wall for a patio or
garden can be a great do-it-yourself project.
The first rule of concrete wall building is knowing
that the entire job relies on the strength of the form. A Tools & Materials ▸
cubic foot of concrete weighs about 140 pounds, which
means that a three-foot-tall wall that is six inches thick Drill and 1⁄8" bit 16d and 8d nails
weighs 210 pounds for each linear foot. If the wall is Hacksaw or Wood screws or
10 feet long, the form must contain over a ton of wet reciprocating saw deck screws
concrete. And the taller the wall, the greater the pressure Pliers 8-gauge tie wire
on the base of the form. If the form has a weak spot and Level Vegetable oil or
the concrete breaks through (known in the trades as a Concrete mixing tools commercial
blowout), there’s little chance of saving the project. So be Shovel release agent
sure to brace, stake, and tie your form carefully. Concrete trowel Concrete mix
This project shows you the basic steps for building Lumber (2 × 4, Plastic sheeting
a three-foot-high partition wall. This type of wall can 2 × 2, and 1 × 2) Exterior-use
typically be built on a poured concrete footing or a 3
⁄4" exterior-grade anchoring cement
reinforced slab that’s at least four inches thick. When plywood Heavy-duty masonry
planning your project, consult your local building #3 steel reinforcing coating (optional)
department for specific requirements, such as wall bar (rebar) Work gloves and eye
size, footing specifications, and metal reinforcement in Hammer or mallet protection
the wall. Note: This wall design is not suitable for Edger
retaining walls, tall walls, or load-bearing walls.
In any setting, a poured concrete wall offers clean, sleek lines and a reassuringly solid presence. You can leave the wall exposed
to display its natural coloring and texture. For a custom design element, you can add color to the concrete mix or decorate any of
the wall’s surfaces with stucco, tile, or other masonry finishes.

Wall Form Construction ▸
A wall form is built with two framed
sides (much like a standard 2 × 4
Pull wire
stud wall) covered with 3⁄4" plywood. 3
⁄4" plywood
The two sides are joined together
at each end by means of a stop
3
⁄4"
board, which also shapes the end plywood
of the finished wall. The form is
Spacer
braced and staked in position. Tie
wires prevent the sides of the form 2×4
frame
from spreading under the force of 2×2 frame
for stop
the concrete. Temporary spacers board
Stake
maintain proper spacing between
#3 rebar
the sides while the form is empty;
these are pulled out once the
concrete is placed. Concrete Stake Diagonal
3
⁄4" plywood footing bracing
stop board
■ How to Create a Poured Concrete Wall

1 2
Build the frames for the form sides from 2 × 4 lumber and Cut one piece of 3⁄4" plywood for each side frame. Fasten the
16d nails. Include a stud at each end and every 16" in between. plywood to frames with 8d nails driven through the plywood
Plan an extra 21⁄4" of wall length for each stop board. For walls and into the framing. Make sure the top edges of the panels
longer than 8 ft., build additional frames. are straight and flush with the frames.
(continued)
3 4
Drill holes for the tie wires: At each stud location, drill two Cut #3 rebar at 34", one piece for each rebar anchor in the
pairs of 1⁄8" holes evenly spaced and keep the holes close to footing. Cut rebar for three horizontal runs, 4" shorter than
the stud faces. Drill matching holes on the other form side. the wall length. Tie the short pieces to the footing anchors
using 8-gauge tie wire, and then tie the horizontal pieces to
the verticals, spacing them 12" apart and keeping their ends 2"
from the wall ends. To make a 90° turn, bend the bars on one
leg of the wall so they overlap the others by 24".
5 6
Spacer
Pull wire
Spacer Spacer
Handle
Cut 1 × 2 spacers at 6", one piece for each set of tie wire Set the form sides in place. Install the stop boards with 2 × 2
holes. These temporary spacers will be used to maintain the frames for backing; fasten the frames to the form sides with screws.
form width. Tie each pair of spacers to a pull wire, spacing Tie a loop of wire through each set of tie wire holes and position
them to match the hole spacing. Then attach a piece of scrap a spacer near each loop. Use a stick to twist the loop strands
wood to the end of the pull wire to serve as a handle. together, pulling the form sides inward, tight against the spacers.

Building on a Concrete Slab ▸
A standard, reinforced 4"-thick concrete slab can Mark the locations for the rebar anchors along the
be a suitable foundation for a low partition wall like the wall center: Position an anchor 4" from each end of the
one shown in this project. The slab must be in good wall and every 24" in between. At each location, drill a
condition, with no significant cracks or changes in level, 11⁄2"-diameter hole straight down into the concrete using
and you should place the wall several inches away from a hammer drill and 11⁄2" masonry bit (above, left). Make
the slab edge to ensure adequate support. To anchor the the holes 3" deep. Spray out the holes to remove all dust
new wall to the slab and provide lateral stability, you’ll and debris using an air compressor with a trigger-type
need to install rebar anchors in the slab, following the nozzle. Cut six pieces of #4 rebar at 16". Mix exterior-use
basic steps shown here. But before going ahead with the anchoring cement to a pourable consistency. Insert the
project, be sure to have your plans approved by the local rods into the holes, and then fill the hole with the cement
building department. (above, right). Hold the rods plumb until the cement sets
(about 10 minutes). Let the cement cure for 24 hours.
Securing Braces on a Concrete Slab ▸

Fasten sheets of 3⁄4" plywood
to the slab as an anchoring
surface for form braces.
Wall form Fasten the plywood with a
few heavy-duty masonry
screws driven into the slab.
Butt the sheets against
Diagonal the bottom of the form to
bracing screwed provide the same support
to plywood
you would get from stakes.
Screw diagonal form bracing
directly to the plywood. You
can also add a cleat behind
2× cleat the braces for extra support.
3
⁄4" plywood
anchored
to slab
Abut plywood to form base
Concrete slab
(continued)
7
Make sure the form is centered over the footing. Check that the sides are plumb and the top is level. Secure the form with
stakes and braces: Install a diagonal brace at each stud location, and stake along the bottom of the form sides every 12". Fasten
all stakes and braces to the form framing with screws. For long walls, join additional side pieces with screws for a tight joint with
no gap along the plywood seam. Brace the studs directly behind the joint between sections. Coat the insides of the form with a
release agent. If building on a slab (above, right), construct the form and then attach as a unit.
8 9
Mix the first batches of concrete in a power mixer, being Place the concrete in the forms. Start at the ends and work
careful not to add too much water—a soupy mix results in toward the center, filling the form about halfway up (no more
weakened concrete. than 20" deep). Rap on the forms to settle out air bubbles and
then fill to the top. Remove the spacers as you proceed.

10 11
Pull wire
Use a shovel to stab into the concrete to work it around the Screed the top of the wall flat with a 2 × 4, removing spacers
rebar and eliminate air pockets. Continue to rap the sides of as you work. After the bleed water disappears, float or trowel
the forms with a hammer or mallet to help settle the concrete the top surface of the wall for the desired finish. Also round
against the forms. over the edges of the wall with an edger, if desired.
12 13
Cut the loops of tie wire and remove the forms. Trim the
tie wires below the surface of the concrete and then patch
the depressions with quick-setting cement or fast-set repair
mortar. Trowel the patches flush with the wall surface.
Quick Tip ▸
To achieve a consistent wall color and texture, apply
Cover the wall with plastic and let it cure for two or three
days. Remove the plastic. Sprinkle with water on hot or dry heavy-duty masonry coating with acrylic fortifier
days to keep concrete from drying too quickly. using a masonry brush.
Before

Poured Concrete Retaining Wall
P oured concrete has advantages and disadvantages

as a building material for structural garden walls,
such as this retaining wall. On the plus side: It can
If the wall will be three feet or taller, you should have
it engineered by a professional. Shorter retaining
walls, sometimes called curb walls, often require less
conform to just about any size and shape you desire stringent engineering, especially if they are located
(within specific structural limitations); depending on in a garden setting or are to be used for planting beds
your source, concrete can be a relatively inexpensive or terracing. The wall seen here is built in a fairly
material; poured concrete is very longlasting; with cold climate, but the fact that the top is less than 36
professional engineering, you can build higher with inches above ground allows for a drainage base that
poured concrete than with most other wall materials. is above the frost line, with the understanding that
But if you live in a region where freeze/thaw cycles some shifting is likely to occur. The project was built
exist, you’ll need to dig at least a foot past the frost in conjunction with poured concrete steps. Because
line and provide plenty of good drainage to keep your the steps and walls are isolated with an isolation
wall from developing vertical cracks. membrane, they are regarded as independent
A properly engineered retaining wall is designed structures and neither is required to have footings
using fairly complicated dimensional and force ratios. that extend below the frost line.
Four types of retaining wall
Counterfort Counterfort
Counterfort
Gravity wall Semigravity wall Cantilever wall
Counterfort wall
Poured concrete retaining walls employ differing strategies to keep the earth at bay. Some, called gravity walls, rely almost
exclusively on sheer mass to hold back the groundswell. These are very wide at the bottom and taper upward in both the front
and the back. Unless you feel like pouring enough concrete to build a dam, don’t plan on a gravity wall that’s more than 3 ft.
tall. A semigravity wall is somewhat sleeker than a gravity wall and employs internal reinforcement to help maintain its shape.
A cantilevered wall has an integral bottom flange that extends back into the hillside where it is held down by the weight of the
dirt that is backilled on top of it. This helps keep the wall in place. A counterfort wall is a cantilevered wall that has diagonal
reinforcements between the back face of the wall and the flange.
1 1⁄ 2"
Shovel Concrete release

Circular saw agent 3
⁄ 4"
Power miter saw #3 rebar
Table saw Concrete 20" above grade
Drill/driver Sheet plastic
Level Concrete vibrator or
36"
Mason’s lines rubber mallet total
height
Compactable gravel Magnesium trowel
Tamper Edger
Bow rake Sprayer
Wheelbarrow Concrete stain
Float 2" AB plastic pipe
Edging tool Landscape fabric 16" below
grade
3
⁄4" plywood Drainage gravel
Tie wire Eye protection and
2 × 4 lumber work gloves
Deck screws Plastic sheeting
Retaining
wall
River
rock
Weephole 2"-dia.
black PE pipe
#3 rebar
Landscape
fabric
Class V

■ How to Build a Concrete Retaining Wall
1 2
Excavate the construction area well beyond the edges Add a thick layer (at least 4 to 6") of compactable gravel
of the planned wall. Reserve some soil for backfilling and to the bottom of the excavation and tamp it thoroughly with
transport some to lower areas in your yard that need building- a hand tamper or a rented plate compactor to create a solid
up. For larger walls, you can save a lot of work by renting a foundation for the wall. Add additional base material in sandy
small backhoe or other earthmoving equipment or hiring an or marshy soil.
excavator. If your utilities company has flagged any pipes in the
area, you must dig around them using hand tools only.
3 4
Stake
Braces
Straightedge cutting guide
Cut the form boards, usually from 3⁄4"-thick exterior-grade Level and stake the forms after doing as much pre-
plywood with one sanded face. You may also use dimensional assembly as you can, including attaching the 1 × 4 front forms
lumber. Do not use oriented-strand board or particleboard to create the lip. Run mason’s lines at the tops of the forms
because they have insufficient strength. Do not use any sheet to use as a reference. Drive 2 × 4 stakes into the ground next
goods that can weaken and delaminate from exposure to wet to the form braces and attach the braces to the stakes with
concrete. Use a circular saw and cutting guide or a table saw deck screws. Wherever possible, stake the forms by driving
to cut panels to width. screws through the outer member so they can be removed to
facilitate stripping off the forms.
5
Stake the back forms as well as the front forms. You’ll have to get a little creative for this task in many cases, because much
depends on the condition of the soil or ground surrounding the wall, as well as access to the forms both during and after the pour.
Here, strips of plywood are secured to metal stakes driven into the hill behind the forms. The strips are then screwed to the braces
on the back wall forms to hold them in position.
6 7
Add rebar reinforcement to tie the integral footing and the Install weep holes. Choose drain pipe (black AB plastic is a
wall together. Drive a length of rebar into the bottom of the wall good choice) around 2" in diameter and cut lengths that are
area and then bend another piece and attach it to the rebar equal to the distance between the inside faces of the plywood
stake with wire. Install these reinforcements every 2 to 3 ft. For form boards. Insert the pipes into the bottoms of the form so
extra strength, connect them with a horizontal pieces of rebar. each end is flush against the inside face of the form. Install a
weep hole drain every 6 ft. or so. Drive a long screw through
the front panel and the back panel so the screw penetrates
the form inside the weep drain, near the top. The ends of the
screws will create supports for the drain pipe if the friction fails
during the pour (as is likely).

Add Decorative
8 Elements to Forms ▸
One of the beauties of poured concrete is that it is
pliable enough to conform to an endless number
of decorative forming schemes. For the retaining
wall seen here, a series of particleboard panels with
beveled edges are attached at regular intervals to the
inside faces of the outer form to create a very familiar
recessed panel appearance. The panels (beveled
edges are cut on a table saw) should be attached
with construction adhesive and short screws so there
are not gaps that concrete can seep into. Be sure to
use a release agent.
Vegetable oil
Apply a release agent to the inside surfaces of the forms.

You can purchase commercial release agent product or
simply brush on a light coat of vegetable oil or mineral oil. Do
not use soap (it can weaken the concrete surface) or motor
oil (it is a pollutant).
(continued)
9 Colored Concrete ▸
The concrete mix seen here was pretinted at the
concrete mixing plant. If you do not want a gray
concrete structure, using tinted concrete adds color
without the need to refresh paint or stain. However, the
process is not cheap (about $60 per yard additional),
the final color is unpredictable, and you’ll have to
tint the concrete to match if you need to repair the
structure in the future. The pigment that is added can
also have unforeseen effects on the concrete mixture,
such as accelerating the set-up time.
Place the concrete. Most walls call for a 4,000psi mixture

(sometimes called 5-bag). You can mix concrete by hand, rent
an on-site power mixer, haul your own premixed concrete in
a rental trailer, or have the concrete delivered. Begin filling the
form at one end of the wall and methodically work your way
toward the other end. Have plenty of help so you can start
tooling the concrete as soon as possible.
10 11
Concrete
vibrator
Hold a panel of sheet stock behind the forms to direct the Settle the concrete in the forms as you work. For best
concrete into the form and prevent it from spilling out. results, rent a concrete vibrator and vibrate thoroughly
before screeding. Do not get carried away—overvibrating
the concrete can cause the ingredients to separate. A less
effective alternative for vibrating (requiring no rental tools) is to
work the concrete in with a shovel and settle it by rapping the
forms with a rubber mallet.

12 13
Strike off, or “screed,” the concrete so it is level with the Tool the concrete once the bleed water evaporates,
tops of the forms. Use a piece of angle iron on square tubing, if desired. For a smoother top, float the surface with a
or a 2 × 4, as a screed. Move the screed slowly across the magnesium trowel or darby. Run the edger along the top edges
forms in a sawing motion. Do not get ahead of the concrete. The on at least the front edge and preferably the back as well.
material behind the screed should be smooth and level with no
dips or voids.
14 15
Cover the concrete surface with plastic sheeting to cure, To backfill, first shovel in an 8 to 12" deep layer of drainage
especially during hot weather. If it is very hot and dry, lift the plastic gravel (1 to 2" dia.), and then place a layer of landscape fabric
off and douse the concrete with fresh water twice a day to slow over the gravel to keep dirt out. Shovel dirt over the gravel and
down the drying. Drying too fast can cause cracking and other tamp it lightly until the desired grade is achieved.
concrete failures. Wait at least two days before removing the forms.
Cast Concrete
C asting decorative objects for the home and

yard is an entertaining and creative exercise
in handling concrete. Locating and making forms
Making your owns forms is another fun exercise
in creativity. Melamine-coated particleboard is a great
material for this job because it holds its shape and the
is a challenge itself, and the specific nature of the concrete will not stick to the surface. When combined
objects you eventually cast is often dictated by with other materials such as the metal flashing used
the potential you see in everyday objects that to form the patio tabletop in this chapter, your casting
you encounter. options are practically unlimited.
The best forms for casting are rigid or semirigid For more complex and sophisticated castings, you
with a slick surface and the ability to contain water. can buy reusable forms in a very wide array of shapes
Plastic and rubber objects are ideal, but you can really and sizes. Garden benches, birdbaths, landscape
use just about any material, especially if you use it for edging, pavers, and statuary are just some of the
a single casting and are not concerned about breaking objects you can cast with a couple bags of concrete
it when you release the cast object. Some examples and a purchased form. The best source for concrete
of useful “found” forms include five-gallon plastic casting forms is the Internet (see Resources section).
buckets (insert a smaller bucket or a tube to cast a One of the best reasons to cast your own
large concrete pot); trash can lids (pavers); nesting decorative and functional objects from concrete is that
plastic bowls (pots and planters); or any sphere you can customize the finished look by coloring the
shapes, such as a basketball, that can be split in two concrete or using creative surface treatments such as
(decorative orbs, bowls). the footsteps in the pavers seen above.
Casting concrete is a DIY-friendly way to gain experience with handling concrete. No matter your masonry skills, there is a
casting project that will challenge and reward you. Projects can be made using purchased molds or everyday objects.

■ Introduction to Casting
Many objects can be used as forms for casting concrete. is a good choice because the melamine side does not
Semirigid items work best because they require no require a release agent. Wood should be treated with a
special preparation, often include embossed shapes or release agent like nonstick cooking spray.
designs, and are usually easy to strip from the cast object. You’ll need to reinforce large concrete objects
Once you try casting, you’ll begin to think of every with metal rods and mesh. Be sure to keep metal away
inanimate object as a potential “form” for a concrete from the edges. Mix in synthetic reinforcing fibers if
structure. Start with simple, easy-to-cast forms such not included in your mix. You can purchased bagged
as plastic bowls or buckets. Choose forms that have concrete with fiber reinforcement blended in at the
interesting textures. Consider how you will use the plant. These products are ideal for large castings
cast concrete when the project is complete: Will it be that will undergo stress, such as stepping stones or
functional or decorative? You may decide to create a tabletops. For small items, use sand mix. In both
form to suit your needs cases, add acrylic fortifier to make the mixture more
Constructed forms can cast items of practically slippery without decreasing strength. Add a coloring
any size or shape. For flat items, such as tabletops agent (liquid or dry) to the mixture to enhance the
and stepping stones, melamine-coated particleboard finished piece.
■ Sample Casting Projects
A deck bowl is cast using two nesting mixing bowls. This Sand casting is a great way to use up the leftovers from a
technique can be used with plastic bowls and buckets and larger poured concrete project. To make this birdbath, you
planters of all sizes. Larger containers should be split in half simply pile up some coarse wet sand and pour the leftover
and taped back together so you can extract the cast object concrete onto the pile. Birds love the rough texture of the
more easily. We used sand mix with acrylic fortifier and black concrete surface.
concrete pigment for this deck bowl.
■ Garden Column
Prefabricated concrete casting forms give you the
ability to make objects for your yard and garden that
rival the best (and very expensive) artwork pieces sold
at garden centers. Garden benches and birdbaths are
among the most popular, but you can locate an array
of forms for just about any objects you can imagine.
Because most of the objects cast with readymade
forms feature grooves, flutes, or complex patterns,
you’ll have the best luck if you use a relatively wet
mixture of concrete with small or sand-only aggregate.
Adding latex bonding agent or acrylic fortifier also
makes the concrete more slippery so it can conform
to odd shapes more readily, but these agents do not
reduce concrete strength, as adding more water does.
If your cast project will be placed outdoors, apply a
penetrating concrete sealer about a week after the casting.

Shovel Nonstick cooking
Mortar box spray
Concrete forms Duct tape
Bagged concrete mix Exterior landscape
(fiber reinforced) adhesive
Acrylic fortifier
Prefabricated casting forms typically are made from rugged This classical concrete column is cast using a simple
PVC so they may be reused many times. You can mix and plastic form purchased from an Internet supplier (see
match the forms to create different objects. The forms above Resources). It can be used to support many garden items,
include a column form with grapevine or fluted insert, two including a display pedestal, a birdbath, or a sundial.
different pedestal shapes, and an optional birdbath top.

■ How to Cast a Garden Column
1 2
Choose a column form insert Choose a sturdy, level work surface. Set the column form upright on a small
(optional) and slide it into the column piece of scrap plywood. Tape down the form with duct tape, keeping the tape clear
form as a liner so the edges meet neatly. of the form top. Mix a batch of fiber-reinforced concrete with an acrylic fortifier and
Tape the column together at the seam. shovel it into the forms. Rap the forms with a stick to settle the concrete and strike
Coat the insides of all form parts with a off the excess with a screed. Run additional tape “hold-downs” over the top of the
very light mist of nonstick cooking spray column form to secure it to the plywood scrap tightly enough that the concrete will
as a release agent. not run out from the bottom.
3 4
Set another scrap of plywood onto the top of the column Apply exterior landscape adhesive to the top of the base
form and weight it down. Let the parts dry for two days and pedestal and set the column end into the adhesive so the
then release them from the forms. Wash and rinse the parts to column is centered. Bond the top pedestal in the same manner.
remove dusty residue. Apply penetrating sealant. If it is not nearby, transport the
column and pedestals to the location before bonding the parts.
■ Patio Tabletop
Casting concrete is a good way to produce some
types of replacement parts, such as a new top for
this old iron patio table base. To make the form
for this project, a strip of galvanized roll flashing is
inserted inside a ring of finish nails to create a circular
shape. Larger tabletops should have rebar or rewire
reinforcement, but this 24-inch-diameter top is small
enough that fiber reinforcement strands are sufficient.

Aviator snips Concrete colorant
Hammer Galvanized metal
Caulk gun roll flashing
Magnesium float 6d nails
Pencil Caulk
Drill/driver Duct tape
Rubber mallet Melamine-coated
Hammer particleboard This round patio tabletop was cast with fiber-reinforced
Reinforced concrete Tabletop hardware concrete tinted yellow. It is a much simpler version of the
mix String kitchen island countertop cast on pages 100 to 107. By casting
Acrylic fortifier Work gloves your own top, you can custom fit any table base you may have.
■ How to Cast a Round Tabletop

1 2
1 1⁄ 2" metal
flashing strip
12" radius Duct

tape
Cut a piece of 3⁄4" melamine (or just about any other sheet Drive 6d finish nails on the circle line at 6" intervals. Keep
stock) to 30 × 30" and drive a small nail in the exact center. Tie the nails perpendicular. Cut a 11⁄2" wide by 80"-long strip of
string to the nail and tie a pencil to the other end, exactly 12" galvanized (not aluminum) flashing using aviator snips. Fit the
away form the nail. Pull the string tight and use this “compass” flashing inside the circle with the cut edge down (factory edge
to draw a 12" radius (24" diameter) circle. up). Let the flashing spring out inside the circle and adjust so
the circle is even. Tape the ends of the flashing with duct tape
on the outside of the form.

Caulk liberally around the outside
3 edge of the flashing where it meets
the base. After the caulk dries, fill the
form with a relatively stiff mix of fiber-
reinforced concrete. Add acrylic fortifier
and pigment (if desired) to the water
before mixing the concrete. Pound the
form base gently with a rubber mallet
to settle the concrete. Also, work a stick
around the edges of the concrete form
to help settle the concrete and make
sure there are no voids.
Strike off the the top of the concrete

4 with a wood screed and fill any voids or
dips in the surface with fresh concrete.
Let the concrete set up until the
bleed water that rises to the surface
evaporates. Then, float the surface with
a wood or magnesium float to create a
smooth, hard surface. Do not overwork
the float, however, as this will draw
aggregate to the surface and weaken
the pour.
Let the concrete cure for at least

5 two days, then remove the flashing,
and release the tabletops. Grind and
polish if you wish (see page 107). Then,
attach the top to the table base. The
table base shown here has screwholes
in the bearing ring, so we marked the
screw locations on the underside of the
tabletop and then drilled holes for screw
anchors. Seal the surface.
Kitchen Countertop
C ast concrete countertops have many unique

characteristics. They are durable, heat resistant,
and relatively inexpensive (if you make them yourself).
homeowners. In addition to keeping the mess and dust
out of your living spaces, working in a garage or even
outdoors lets you cast the countertops with the finished
But most of all, they are highly attractive and a great surface face down in the form. This way, if you do a
fit in contemporary kitchens or bathrooms. careful job building the form, you can keep the grinding
A concrete countertop may be cast in place and polishing to a bare minimum. In some cases, you
or formed offsite and installed like a natural stone may even be able to simply remove the countertop from
countertop. Casting offsite makes more sense for most the form, flip it over, and install it essentially as is.

Tape measure Pliers Black or colored Bagged concrete
Pencil Concrete mixer silicone caulk countertop mix or
Table saw or 5-gal. buckets Grinding and polishing high/early mix rated
circular saw Shovel pads for 5,000 psi
Jigsaw Wheelbarrow Melamine-coated Paste wax
Drill and right-angle Wooden float particleboard for Work gloves and eye
drill guide Variable speed angle constructing the form protection
Level grinder with Concrete sealer
Carpenter’s square grinding pads Coloring agent (liquid If installing sink:
Reciprocating saw with Belt sander or powder) Knockout for faucet
metal-cutting blade Automotive buffer Compass Buffing bonnet for
Aviation snips Insulation board #3 rebar polisher
2" coarse wallboard Plastic sheeting Tie wire Faucet set
screws Rubber mallet Panel or silicone Sink
Deck screws (3, 31⁄2) Welded wire mesh for adhesive Polyurethane varnish
Wire mesh reinforcement
Building a custom concrete countertop like this is an easier project than you might think. All of the building materials and
techniques are covered in this book.

Planning a Concrete Countertop ▸
B E H
I
L
J
K
D
The basic supplies needed to build your countertop form and cast the countertop include: (A) welded wire mesh for
reinforcement; (B) black or colored silicone caulk; (C) grinding and polishing pads; (D) melamine-coated particleboard for
constructing the form; (E) concrete sealer; (F) coloring agent (liquid or powder); (G) bagged concrete countertop mix or
high/early mix rated for 5,000 psi; (H) paste wax; (I) knockout for faucet, if installing sink; (J) buffing bonnet for polisher;
(K) faucet set; and (L) sink.
Custom Features: Concrete countertops are normally 48" long × 24" deep × 31⁄2" thick will require 21⁄3 cu. ft. of
cast as flat slabs, but if you are willing to put a little mixed concrete (48 × 24 × 3.5 / 1,728 = 21⁄3) or four 80-lb.
more time and effort into it, there are many additional bags of countertop mix.
features you can create during the pour. A typical 3"-tall
backsplash is challenging, but if you have room behind
the faucet you can create a 3⁄4"-tall backsplash shelf in
the backsplash area. Or, if you search around for some
additional information, you can learn how to cast a
drainboard directly into the countertop surface. And there
is practically no end to the decorative touches you can
apply using pigments and inserts.
Estimating Concrete for Countertops: After

you design your project and determine the actual
dimensions, you’ll need to estimate the amount of
concrete you’ll need. Concrete is measured by volume
Countertop mix is specially formulated concrete
in cubic feet; multiply the length by the width and then
countertop mix designed for use in either precast or
by the thickness of the finished countertop for volume
cast-in-place projects. Countertop mix contains
in cubic inches, then divide the sum by 1,728 for additives that improve the workability, strength, and
cubic feet. For example, a countertop that will be finish of the mix.

■ How to Cast a Concrete Countertop
1 2
Make the form parts. First, cut 11⁄2"-wide strips of 3⁄4" Use a power drill mounted in a right-angle drill guide (or
melamine-coated particleboard for the form sides. Cut the use a drill press) to drill 1⁄4"-dia. guide holes for 3" deck screws
strips to length (26 and 811⁄2" as shown here) and drill two at 6" intervals all the way through the tops of the form sides.
countersunk pilot holes 3⁄8" in from the ends of the front and Countersink the holes so the screw heads will be recessed
back form sides. Assemble the strips into a frame by driving slightly below the surface.
a 2" coarse wallboard screw at each pilot hole and into the
mating ends of the end form strips.
3 4
Attach the form sides to the base. Center the melamine- Make the sink knockout blanks by stacking two pieces of
strip frame pieces on the base, which should have the 3
⁄4" melamine. The undermount sink we used requires a 20 ×
melamine coating face-up. Test the corners with a carpenter’s 31” knockout with corners that are rounded at a 2" radius. Cut
square to make sure they’re square. Drive one 31⁄2" deck screw two pieces of 3⁄4"-thick MDF to 20 × 31" square using a table
per form side near the middle. The screwheads should be saw if you have one. With a compass, mark 2"-radius curves at
slightly below the top edges of the forms. Check for square each corner for trimming. Make the trim cuts with a jigsaw (as
again, and continue driving the 31⁄2" screws at 6" intervals shown in photo). Cut just outside the trim line and sand up to it
through the pilot holes. Check for square frequently. Note: Do with a pad sander for a smooth curve.
not drive any screws up through the underside of the form
base—you won’t be able to lift the countertop and access the
screws when it’s time to strip off the forms.

5 6
Shape the knockout. Clamp the two pieces of melamine Install the sink knockout. Because gluing the faces
face-to-face for the knockout and gang-sand the edges and together can add height to the knockout (and cause the
corners so they’re smooth and even. A belt sander on a concrete finishing tools to bang into it when they ride on the
stationary sanding station or an oscillating spindle sander form tops), attach each blank directly to the layer below it
works great for this. Don’t oversand—this will cause the sink using countersunk screws. Keep the edges aligned perfectly,
knockout to be too small. especially if you’re planning to install an undermount sink.
Faucet Knockouts Option: If your sink faucet will not be

mounted on the sink deck, you’ll need to add a knockout
to your form for the faucet hole (try and choose a single-
handle faucet), according to the requirements of the faucet
manufacturer. You can order knockouts from a concrete
countertop supplies distributor, or you can create them with
PVC pipe that has an outside diameter equal to the required Make the form watertight. Seal exposed edges of the sink
faucet hole size. To anchor the PVC knockout, cover one end knockout with fast-drying polyurethane varnish, and then
with a flat cap made for that size tubing. Drill a guide hole caulk the form once the varnish is dry. Run a very thin bead of
through the center of the cap so you can secure it with a colored silicone caulk (the coloring allows you to see where
screw. The top of the cap should be exactly flush with the the caulk has been laid on the white melamine) in all the
form sides once it is installed. Before securing, position the seams and then smooth carefully with a fingertip. In addition to
knockout next to a form side and compare the heights. If keeping the wet concrete from seeping into gaps in the form,
the knockout is taller, file or sand the uncapped end so their the caulk will create a slight roundover on the edges of the
lengths match. concrete. Caulk around the bottoms of the knockouts as well.
(continued)

8
Variation: If your countertop is more than 2" thick, use #3 Add reinforcement. Cut a piece of welded wire (also called
rebar (3⁄8" dia.) for the primary reinforcement. Do not use rebar rewire) with a 4 × 4" grid so it’s 2" smaller than the interior
on thinner countertops, as the rebar will necessarily be too form dimensions. Make a cutout for the sink and faucet
close to the surface and can telegraph through. Bend the rebar knockouts, making sure the rewire does not come closer than
to fit around the perimeter of the form using a rebar or conduit 1" to any edge, surface, or knockout. Flatten the rewire as best
bender. The rebar needs to be at least 1" away from all edges you can and then hang it with wires that are attached to the
(including knockouts) and 1" away from the top surface. Tie the tops of the forms with screws (you’ll remove the screws and
ends of the rebar with wire and set it in the form on temporary cut the wires after the concrete is placed).
1" spacers.
9 10
Clamp or screw the base of the form to a sturdy workbench Blend water with liquid cement color (if desired) in a
or table so the form cannot move during the critical finishing 5-gal. bucket prior to adding to the mixer.
and curing stages. Check for level and insert shims between
the worktop and the benchtop if needed for leveling. If you’re
concerned about mess, slip a sheet of 3-mil plastic on the floor
under the workbench.

11 12
Slowly pour concrete countertop mix Fill the countertop form, making sure to pack the concrete into corners and press
into the mixer and blend for a minimum it through the reinforcement. Overfill the form slightly.
of 5 minutes. Properly mixed material
will flow easily into molds. Add small
amounts of water as necessary to
achieve the desired consistency.
13 14
Vibrate the form vigorously as you work to settle concrete into all the voids. You Strike off excess concrete from
can rent a concrete vibrator for this purpose, or simply strike the form repeatedly the form using a 2 x 4 drawn along the
with a rubber mallet. If you have a helper and a sturdy floor and worktable, lift up and tops of the forms in a sawing motion. If
down on the ends of the table, bouncing it on the floor to cause vibrations (this is a voids are created, pack them with fresh
very effective method if you can manage it safely). Make sure the table remains level concrete and restrike. Do not overwork
when you’re through. the concrete.
(continued)

15 16
Snip the wire ties holding the rewire mesh once you are Smooth the surface of the concrete with a metal screeding
certain you won’t need to vibrate the form any further. Embed tool, such as a length of angle iron or square metal tubing.
the cut ends attached to the rewire below the concrete surface. Work slowly with a sawing motion, allowing the bleed water
to fill in behind the screed. Since this surface will be the
underside of the countertop, no further tooling is required.
Cover the concrete with plastic and allow the concrete to dry
undisturbed for three to five days.
17 18
Remove the plastic covering and then unscrew and remove Flip the countertop so the finished surface is exposed
the forms. Do not pry against the fresh concrete. In most (you’ll need a helper or two). Be extremely careful. The best
cases, you’ll need to cut apart the sink knockout to prevent technique is to roll the countertop onto an edge, position
damaging the countertop when removing it. Drill a starter hole several shock-absorbing sleepers beneath it (rigid insulation
and then carefully cut up to the edge of the knockout. Cut the board works very well), and then gently lower the countertop
knockout into chunks until you can remove it all. The edges of onto the sleepers.
the concrete will be fragile, so be very careful.

19 20
To expose the aggregate and create a very polished finish, grind the countertop Clean and seal the concrete with
surface. Use a series of increasingly fine grinding pads mounted on a shock-protected several coats of quality concrete sealer
5" angle grinder (variable speed). This is messy work and can go on for hours to get (one with penetrating and film-forming
the desired result. Rinse the surface regularly with clean water and make sure it stays agents). For extra protection and a
wet during grinding. For a gleaming surface, mount still finer pads (up to 1,500 grit) on renewable finish, apply a coat of paste
the grinder and wet-polish. wax after the last coat of sealer dries.
21 22
Mount the sink (if undermount). Sinks are easier to install Install the countertop and hook up the plumbing. Make sure
prior to attaching the countertop on the cabinet. Attach the the island cabinet is adequately reinforced and that as much
sink according to the manufacturer’s directions. Undermount plumbing as possible has been taken care of, and then apply a
sinks like this are installed with undermount clips and thick bead of panel adhesive or silicone adhesive to the tops
silicone adhesive. Self-rimming sinks likely will require some of the cabinets and stretchers. With at least one helper, lower
modifications to the mounting hardware (or at least you’ll need the countertop onto the base and position it where you wish.
to buy some extra-long screws) to accommodate the thickness Let the adhesive dry overnight before completing the sink and
of the countertop. faucet hookups.

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NEW

3rd Edition DVD

The Complete Guide to Masonry & Stonework

The Complete Guide to

Gallery of Masonry & Stonework . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Concrete Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 56 62

Preparing a Project Site . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36

Setting Concrete Posts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

Concrete Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

Poured Footings for Freestanding Walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

Poured Concrete Walkway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50 72

Concrete Steps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Entryway Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

Poured Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

Round Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72

Poured Concrete Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 80 94

Poured Concrete Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86

Cast Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94

Kitchen Countertop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100

BRICK & BLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 100

Brick & Block Basics. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110

Dry Block Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130

Block Retaining Wall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132

Outdoor Kitchen. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138

Brick Barbecue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .146 110 138

Brick Planter. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150

Brick Pillars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152

Brick Archway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156

Brick Wall Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160

Mortared Brick Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .164 164 170

NATURAL STONE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169

Natural Stone Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .170

Dry Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182

Mortared Stone Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184 182

Stone Retaining Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188

Arroyo (Dry Streambed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194

Stone Firepit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198

Mortared Flagstone Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .202

Flagstone Garden Steps. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 194 198

Rock Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .212

Stone Moon Window . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .214

Cobblestone Paver Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218

Sandset Flagstone Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .226

Zen Garden. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .234

DECORATIVE MASONRY FINISHING. . . . . . . . 239

Stamped Concrete Finishes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240

Acid-stained Concrete Patio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 234

Decorative Concrete Floor. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244

Stucco Finish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .250

Stone Veneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256

Mortarless Brick Veneer Siding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .262

Tiling a Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 262 268

Tiling Concrete Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276

REPAIR & MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283

Repairing Concrete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .284

Patching Cracks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286

Quick Fixes for Wet Walls. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288

Renewing an Old Concrete Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .290

Repairing Steps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .294