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Scope of Polyester Cotton Blended Single Jersey Knit Fabric Finishing Without
Heat Setting

Article · July 2014

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.6, pp : 725-729 1 June 2014

Scope of Polyester Cotton Blended Single Jersey Knit Fabric Finishing Without Heat
Setting
Shahjalal Khandaker1*, M A Rahman Bhuiyan1, M A Hannan1, M A Al Faruque2,
A Y M Anwarul Azim 3, M A Rouf 4
1
Dept. of Textile Engg., Dhaka University of Engg. & Technology, Gazipur-1700, Bangladesh
2
Bangladesh University of Textiles, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
3
Department of Textile Engineering, Primeasia University.
4
Dept. of Fashion Design, Shanto-Mariam University of Creative Technology, Bangladesh.
E-mail: sk_tex2005@yahoo,com, [email protected], [email protected],
[email protected], [email protected]
Abstract: The present paper elucidates the study on finishing of both the benefits of the two types of fibers together. The fabric
single jersey PC fabric devoid of heat setting. 140 grams per thus remains light and cool for the presence of cotton and at the
square meters (GSM) single jersey PC (65% cotton and 35% same time polyester gives the strength and durability. This blend
polyester) blended knit fabric was prepared by circular knitting is usually comfortable by combining the natural effects of cotton
machine and divided into two categories. The processing and for softness and moisture absorption with the no iron crispness of
finishing of one group of fabric samples was carried out by polyester. The most common polyester cotton blend is found as
heat setting and another one was performed without heat 65% polyester and 35% cotton. Other combination of polyester
setting. The bursting strength of without heat set fabric was cotton blended fabrics are 50% polyester and 50% cotton, 70%
slightly higher than the heat set polyester cotton blended fabric. polyester and 30% cotton, 80% polyester and 20% cotton etc.
However, the pilling of polyester cotton blended fabric was Heat setting needs to be applied on polyester or polyester cotton
faintly better in case of heat set samples. Although, heat set blend fabric prior to dyeing process to alter the physical
fabric exhibited better outcomes for shrinkage and spirality properties of polyester fabric resulting more stable polyester
compared to non heat set fabric, still both results were within fiber. This system, applied in industry, includes dry air contact
the acceptable limit (±5%). Furthermore, it can be seen from heating elements, water vapor, liquid baths etc10. It is one of the
the revealed data that the washing fastness and rubbing major influencing parameters to process the polyester cotton
fastness properties were not significantly influenced by the heat blend fabric. Basically heat setting is a heat treatment by which
set process on finished fabric. No distinction was noticed in shape retention, crease resistance, resilience and elasticity are
hand feeling for both types of fabrics. imparted to the fibers. It also brings changes in strength,
Keywords: knit fabric, heat setting, polyester cotton blend, stretchability, softness, dyeability. All these changes are
dimensional stability. connected with the structural and chemical modifications
1. Introduction occurring in the fiber. The importance of heat setting as a means
Textile fabrics, for wearable purpose, are mainly prepared from of optimizing the structure and performance of oriented films and
cellulosic fibers such as cotton which provides desirable fibers has been well recognized.
properties like high absorbency, breathability, softness and In the different textile dyeing industries in Bangladesh, heat
comfort all kind of people all over the world 1,2. Despite the setting is done on polyester cotton blended fabric before dyeing.
aforementioned advantages, there are also some unexpected However, for heat setting, utility cost, manpower cost and other
properties such as easy wrinkling, easy soiling, susceptibility costs are involved which ultimately increases the production cost
to microbial attack, supporting the growth of micro of fabric. This cost can be reduced by avoiding heat setting
organisms, low UV-protection as well as low strength 3,4. On process prior to dyeing of polyester cotton blended fabric. In this
the other hand, textile fabrics based on polyester fibers case, fabric quality will be a vital issue to avoid this process from
generally are strong, wrinkle resistant, more resistant to this type of blended fabric finishing. If heat setting could be
microbial attacks by microorganisms and dirt resistant 5. avoided without compromising the quality of polyester cotton
However, they certainly lack the comfort properties as well as blended fabric, production cost and process duration will be
low absorbency 6.Therefore, blending of cellulosic cotton and reduced to a great extent. In this study, the properties of
polyester fibers along with the used novel finishes and polyester cotton blended fabric such as bursting strength,
innovative technologies can economically extend the dimensional stability, pilling and also various color fastnesses
functional and performance properties as well as values of properties of dyed PC fabric were compared after finishing by
textile processing and products, to cope with the increasing heat setting and without heat setting to predict wheather is it
consumer’s demand for innovative multifunctional feasible to omit heat set prior to dyeing or not.
materials7,8,9.This blend is perfect for clothing as it outcomes

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.6, pp : 725-729 1 June 2014

2. Experimental ( Accu-Dry from U.K). Colorfastness to washing and rubbing of

2.1 Materials dyed fabric was also assessed. Wash fastness tester (Gyro wash
Single jersey polyster cotton blended fabric was used to perform model no: 415/8), rubbing fastness tester (Crock meter, model
the experimental works. The fabirc was formed with 65% no: 670) from James H. Heal & Co, UK were used for the
polyester and 35% cotton where yarn count was 30s. The respective fastness testing.
pretreatment i.e. scouring and bleaching was carried out by using 2.3 Methods
the chemicals - Wetting agent (Imeron PCLF) and Peroxide 2.3.1 Fabric formation
stabilizer (Stabilizer SOF liquid) from Clariant, Bangladesh; The formation of fabric was performed by circular knitting
Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2), Acetic acid (CH3COOH), and machine at 24 gauge, dia 34 inch and stitch length 2.57 mm
Caustic soda (NaOH) from Merck, India; Sequestering agent through which 140 GSM fabric was produced. Maintaining the
from Dysin, Bangladesh. The dyeing of fabric was carried out by same production parameters the manufactured fabrics were
using three commercial reactive dyes Novacron Yellow FN2R, divided into two groups. Each group is divided into three
Novacron Red FN2BL and Novacron Blue FNR from Swiss fractions where 15 Kg of fabric was used in each fraction. The
Colours BD Ltd., Bangladesh. Auxiliary chemicals like-Leveling processing and finishing of one group of fabric samples was
agent (Drimagen E3R) from Clariant, Bangladesh; Glauber’s salt carried out by heat setting and another group was performed
(Na2SO4.10H2O) and Soda ash (Na2CO3) were collected from without heat setting. For the ease of identification, the heat set
Merck, India. The finishing was performed by using softening couples were denoted by H1, H2, and H3 and without heat set
agent (Cepreton- UNP) brought from Clariant, Bangladesh. All couples were W1, W2, and W3.
the chemicals applied in the fabric processing were of analytical 2.3.2 Heat setting of fabric
grade and used as received. The heat setting of fabric was carried out in Stenter machine at
2.2 Equipments 1900C in dry condition. During heat setting 20% over feeding of
The knitting of fabric was done by circular knitting machine of fabric was maintained throughout the process.
Mayer & Cie from Germany. The pretreatment and dyeing of 2.3.3 Processing of fabric
fabric was carried out by sample dyeing machine from Fongs, The processing of fabric i.e. pretreatment and dyeing was
Taiwan.The dyed fabric samples were finished by keeping the performed after knitting and heatsetting. The pretreatment
same parameters. Slitting machine (Bianco from Italy) was used (scouring and bleaching) of fabric samples both heat set and
for squeezing and opening the fabric. Stenter machine (Brukner without heat set was carried out by exhaust method at 100 °C
from Germany) was employed to heat set and dry the fabric. temperature for 45 minutes. The single bath scouring and
Moreover, compacting of the fabric was done by open compactor bleaching recipe and process curve are given in Table 1 & Figure
machine (Lafer from Italy). The performance of the finished 1.The pretreated fabric was then dyed in the same bath of
fabric i.e. bursting strength and pilling was measured by scouring and bleaching. Only cotton part of the blended fabric
hydraulic bursting strength tester (Tru Burst from James H. Heal was dyed in batch process with medium brand reactive dyes at
& Co, UK) and ICI Pilling Box (Tex care industries from India) 600C temperature for 60 minutes. All the parameters were
respectively. The washing and drying of the fabric for the testing remained constant for both the types of fabrics. Dyeing recipe
of shrinkage and spirality were executed by washing machine and process curve are shown in Table 2 & Figure 2
(Gyro wash from James H. Heal & Co, UK) and Tumble dryer

Table: 1 Single bath scouring bleaching recipe for all test

samples
Ingre Wetting Seques Hydrogen Stabilizer Caustic M:L*
dients agent g/l tering peroxide g/l soda g/l
agent g/l
g/l
Amou 0.4 0.3 2.5 0.5 4.0 1:10
nt
*Material liquor ratio
Figure 1: Single bath scouring bleaching procedure of cotton fib
Table 2: Dye bath recipe for all test samples
Ingredients Dyes Glauber Soda Wetting Leveling
(%) salt g/l ash agent agent M:L*
g/l g/l g/l
Amount 1.0 50.0 12.0 1.0 1.0 1:10

*Material liquor ratio

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.6, pp : 725-729 1 June 2014

Figure 4: Bursting strength of heat set and without heat set fabric Figure 2: Dyeing procedure of cotton part of PC fabric using
samples after finishing reactive dye

2.3.4 Finishing of fabric measured by hydraulic diaphragm method and the results of heat
The dyed fabric samples were finished maintaining the same set (H1, H2 and H3) and without heat set (W1, W2 and W3)
process parameters . The drying of fabric was done by Stenter fabrics are represented in the Figure 4. From figure 4 it has been
machine at 140 C ̊ temperature and then compacted by using found that, the fabric samples of without heat set exhibit higher
compactor machine followed by opening and squeezing by bursting strength than the heat set fabrics. In case of without heat
slitting machine. set, the strength of fabric was 271, 270 & 273 KPa respectively.
2.3.5 Evaluation of fabric performance However, the strength of heat set fabrics was lower than that of
The bursting strength and pilling of fabric was determined the without heat set fabric samples and the values varied from
according to BS EN ISO 13938-2 and BS EN ISO 12945-1:2000 248 KPa to 266 KPa. The decrease in strength of fabric is due to
respectively. The pilling of fabric was examined visually after the loss of strength of polyester fiber after heat setting. Because
comparing it with the standard sample by the use of a written heat setting was carried out at 1900C in dry condition and
scale of severity11. The shrinkage and spirality of fabric was polyester fiber losses its strength above 150 0C12 which results in
measured after washing. The washing of fabric was conducted lower bursting strength of fabric after heat setting.
according to: ISO-6330. After washing and drying the 3.2 Pilling of Fabric Surface
lengthwise and widthwise shrinkages were calculated according Pilling is a phenomenon that arises in wear due to the formation
to ISO-3759 by using following formula: of little 'pills'. Pills are entangled fiber clinging to the fabric
Length wise Shrinkage Width wise Shrinkage surface giving it an unsightly appearance. The tendency of pill
formation is greater in case of blended fabric such as
polyester/cotton13.
Where, L1= Length of fabric before wash, L2= Length of fabric
after wash, W1= Width of fabric before wash and W 2= Width of
fabric after wash. The spirality of fabric was calculated by using
the following formula from Figure -3.
Spirality % =
The fastness properties of dyed fabrics i.e. color fastness to
washing and rubbing were assessed according to ISO 105C03
and ISO 105x12 method respectively.
A B A B A B
Figure 5. Rating of pilling of heat set and without heat set fabric
surface
Figure 5 represents that, the average pilling rating of without heat
set fabric is 1-2 i.e. dense surface fuzzing or severe pilling11. But
C D C1 C D1 D C C1 D D1 the fabric samples of heat set exhibit higher pilling rating.
Figure 3. Measurement of spirality of PC blend fabric after Because, heat setting can improve the pilling performance of
finishing fabrics containing thermoplastic fibers such as polyester, nylon
3. Results and discussions etc13. Since heat setting of fabric was performed in dry condition
3.1 Measurement of Bursting Strength of fabric at high temperature 1900C. High temperature can enhance the
Bursting strength is a method in which the material is stressed in pilling performance of PC fabric due to high heat shrinkage
all directions at the same time. This method is applicable for combined with low flex life where the fabric appears to be pill
knitted fabrics where maximum strength is not found at any free.
distinct direction11. This strength of the sample knitted fabric was

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.6, pp : 725-729 1 June 2014

Table 3: Shrinkage percentage of heat set and without heat set satisfactory in case of commercial application where generally
fabric after finishing ±5% spirality is acceptable.
3.4 Assessment of color fastness
Fabric The color fastness properties of dyed PC fabric i.e. fastness to
H1 H2 H3 W1 W2 W3
samples washing and rubbing were analyzed. Color fastness to washing
Lengthwise was assessed in respect of color change and color staining. The
shrinkage +1.00 +1.0 +1.0 -0.30 -0.33 -0.33 staining of color was examined by multifiber fabric (acetate,
(%) cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, wool). Rubbing fastness was
Widthwise evaluated in dry and wet condition. Fastness ratings of different
-1.86 -1.82 -1.84 -2.87 -2.84 -2.83 types of dyed samples are furnished in the Table 5.
shrinkage(%)
Table 5. Color fastness to washing (color change and staining)
Table 3 shows the lengthwise and widthwise shrinkages of fabric and rubbing of heat set
(heat set and without heat set) after finishing. Though the fabrics, Fabric Washing Fastness
Rubbing
heat set and without heat set shrink after finishing, but the values sample
Fastness Color
s Color staining
found in case of both samples were remained within the chang
recommended range (±5% of shrinkage) of commercial purpose. Dr We e Acetate Cotton Nylon Polyester Acrylic Wool
However, the widthwise shrinkage of heat set fabric is H1 y
4/5 4t 3/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4/5
comparatively less than without heat set fabric. Since, heat H2 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4/5
setting was carried out at 1900C which stabilizes the polyester H3 4/5 4 3/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4/5
fibers results in control the residual shrinkage of PC fabric 15. 4/5 4/5
W1 4/5 4 3/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4
Moreover, heat setting changes the morphology of the polyester
W2 4/5 4 3/4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4/5
fibers and improves the dimensional stability of the fabric 16. As
a consequence, the development of dimensional stability heat set W3 4/5 4 4 4/5 4/5 4/5 4/5 4 4/5
fabric exhibits less shrinkage than without heat set fabric. Again,
From Table 5 it has been found that, the fabrics of heat set and
the lengthwise extension of heat set fabric is due to the 20% over
without heat set demonstrate almost similar ratings in case of
feeding of fabric during heat setting. This overfeeding
both color fastness to washing and rubbing. Heat setting affects
compresses the knitted loop axially and after finishing these
the dyeability of polyester fiber and the dye uptake of this fiber is
loops is retained at their original shape, resulting positive
influenced by the time and temperature of heat setting18. Since,
lengthwise shrinkage of fabric.
only cotton part of the PC fabric was dyed and there is no effect
3.3. Determination of fabric Spirality
of heat setting on the dye absorption of the cotton fiber, so the
Spirality is a common problem in single jersey knit structure and
depth of shades of colored fabric was also similar. As a
it may be developed in grey, washed or finished state of fabric. It
consequence of similar depth of shade, same fabric and same
influences the aesthetic and functional performance of knitwear .
dyestuff the fastness rating will be also similar.
Table 4: Spirality percentage of heat set and without heat set 4. Conclusion
fabric after finishing. In this study, the properties of polyester cotton blended fabric
Fabric H1 H2 H3 W1 W2 W3 were compared after finishing with heat setting and without heat
setting. The bursting strength of without heat set fabric was
Spirality 0% 0% 0% 2% 2.03% 2.05% slightly higher than the heat set polyester cotton blended fabric.
However, the pilling of polyester cotton blended fabric was
The practical problems arising out of the loop spirality in knitted slightly better when dyed and finished after heat setting than non
garments are: displacement or shifting of seams, mismatched heat set fabric. Although, heat set fabric shown the better
patterns and sewing difficulties. These problems can be shrinkage and spirality compared to non heat set fabric, the both
minimized by heat setting in case of 100% polyester or PC results were within the acceptable limit of different buyers.
fabric. The spirality of PC fabric after heat setting and without Moreover, it can be seen from the result that the washing fastness
setting is given in Table 4. The dimensional distortions and and rubbing fastness did not influenced by the heat set process on
instability in the knitted loop construction is experienced due to finished fabric remarkable. No difference was found in hand
the relaxation of torsional stresses17. This leads to the felling of both fabric practically. Therefore, the findings of this
appearance of spirality in the single jersey knitted fabrics work suggest that, single jersey PC fabric could be finished of
especially in case of PC fabric. This tendency of deformation that composition without heat set process to save time and utility
and unsteadiness of knitted loop of PC fabric is reduced by heat cost as well as to increase production in a dyeing finishing unit.
setting. Due to the improvement of dimensional stability after
heat setting18. The spirality of fabric was found 0% which is Acknowledgements
The authors are thankful to the all laboratory staff of Textile
shown in Table 4. However, the fabric without heat setting
Engineering Department, DUET, Gazipur, as well as the
exhibit spirality is about 2%. Though the spirality of fabric is
management of the GMS Composite Knitting Industries Ltd.
increased by 2% of without heat set fabric but this value is quite
Gazipur for their enormous supports during the work.

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 International Journal of Scientific Engineering and Technology (ISSN : 2277-1581)
Volume No.3 Issue No.6, pp : 725-729 1 June 2014

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