Kigurumi

Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop
"Snuggie" Character Costume

by LegoBrickMaster7 on August 1, 2010
Table of Contents
"Snuggie" Character Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Intro: "Snuggie" Character Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Step 1: The Pattern and Some Size Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Step 2: Materials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Step 3: Cutting Out the Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Step 4: Sewing the Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Step 5: Cutting Out the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Step 6: Sewing the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Step 7: Cutting Out the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Step 8: Sewing the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Step 9: Attaching the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Step 10: Attaching the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Step 11: Time for Creativity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Step 12: Finishing Details (Snorlax) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Step 13: Finishing Details (Poliwhirl) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Step 14: Finishing Details (Piplup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Step 15: Finishing Details (Quilava) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Step 16: (Chancey) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Step 17: (Totoro) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Step 18: (Snorlax #2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Step 19: Final Notes and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Advertisements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-Pokemon-Snuggie-Costume/
Author:LegoBrickMaster7 RedBubble
The name's Alex. I'm currently majoring in Graphic Design at Cal Poly Pomona. When I'm not busy with schoolwork I like to practice hockey, watch some
movies, modify my Nerf blasters, play with my Yamaha DTXpress drum set, or just chill with my friends.
Intro: "Snuggie" Character Costume

This cute costume is made of warm fleece and is great for wearing out on Halloween or just chillin' around the house. Good luck choosing which Pokemon you want to
create your costume after!
I got the idea for this after my good friend Max purchased a pair of Pikachu Pajamas . With a hefty price of 74 dollars (on that site), I figured I could do one better and
make my own for a fraction of the price. 40 dollars of fleece later, me and my other friend Evan set out about making our own Charmander and Meowth costume.
However, I didn't document the making of those costumes. It didn't cross my mind until we wore them to our band's first performance and after the show nearly every
person we talked to asked me where I got those. Everyone seemed dumb-founded that I sewed them, and soon people were requesting Pokemon "Snuggie" costumes
of their own.
That's is what this Instructable will cover. A few friends making their own Pokemon costumes, under my guidance. Naturally, I wont be making one for each Pokemon out
there, but you can get some ideas about how it's done, and create your own!
These costumes aren't supposed to be an exact "spot on" copy of the character you are choosing. They have more of a melty vibe going to them, and keep in mind that
most of this is meant to be floppy so you can be comfortable in them. We don't want any wires to hold up tails, because that would just be uncomfortable.
Also, I encourage you read through the entire thing before you get too exited and start crafting your own.
Image Notes Image Notes

1. Charmander! 1. Totoro!
2. Polywhirl! 2. Snorlax!

1. Chancey! 1. Piplup!
Image Notes
1. Meowth!
2. Charmander!
3. The original Pikachu pajamas.
Image Notes
1. An artist's rendition of us, in costume.
Step 1: The Pattern and Some Size Issues

This project is rather forgiving since the whole idea behind this is that it is floppy and blanket like, so it doesn't need to fit well.
You can go about cutting your material a few different ways. One is to make patterns like I did and then lay them over the fabric and cut it out. Or you can just free hand it,
by drawing the rough dimensions on the fabric and cutting it out without creating the pattern.
Body and Legs (Cut out 4 of these)
The body piece is the largest part of the project. Remember to modify the length of the leg section if you're much taller than 5' 8'', but you don't need to change the body
part of the main piece. Cut out 4 of these.
Sleeves (Cut out 2 of these)
Simple enough. With the dimensions given in the picture below I had enough extra fabric to hem the sleeves, and they are still decently long. If you need to make the
sleeves longer, extend the 22'' dimension to the size you need.
Hood
The hood is made up of 4 different pieces of fabric, and 3 different patterns. I would call the hood "Jedi sized", so you really shouldn't need to do any modification to this
part of the project.
Tail
This is something that will vary depending on the Pokemon or character you choose to model your "Snuggie" after.
Size Issues
This pattern is taken almost directly from the Pikachu Pajamas that my friend Max ordered. These were not made for 6 foot tall men, they were made for tiny Japanese
girls. Thankfully me and Evan are only 5' 8'', so the design here fits us fine, but if you're over that height I suggest making the legs longer and wider to accommodate your
different height. You can see the Pikachu costume on Max and how the legs are shorter, the body is fine, but the legs will need to be made larger if you're tall.
Step 2: Materials
Fleece is the first and most important thing we need to get to complete his project. This is also something that will limit what character you can create your costume after
depending on what colors are available. I also suggest waiting for a sale to purchase your fabric. It ended up costing most of these guys somewhere between 20-30
dollars (while there was a sale).
Now for the amount you need. If you’re following the pattern directly you will only need 2 ½ to 3 yards. If you’re going to extend the legs you’re going to want 3 to 3 ½
yards. With the smaller amount you will have enough to complete it. Some people just like to be on the safe side.
You also need to consider buying more fleece for different parts of you character. Do they have a different colored belly? You will need to buy more fleece. Plan
accordingly.
Other materials
-Fabric Scissors
-Appropriate color thread
-Pins
-Buttons, zipper or Velcro
-Felt- for eyes and other small character designs
-Sewing machine
Image Notes
1. Pins!
Image Notes
1. Some buttons, a zipper, and fleece.

1. The most bomb-diggidy scissors ever. 1. More fleece, after we cut out some parts.
Image Notes
1. Ziggi has a brand new fleece fort.
Step 3: Cutting Out the Body

The easiest way to cut out the body is to fold the fabric so there are 4 layers. You have to cut some of the pieces apart from the folds, but I find it works the best. The
pattern is a little too wide for cutting it this way, but not to worry the body is very floppy anyways. The legs are the only thing you may want to widen.
If you are adding length or width to the legs this is the time to do it. Take a look at Aaron’s pictures to get some ideas (dark blue).

1. Me demonstrating to the group how to fold the fleece to get 4 layers. 1. Pattern placement.

1. The pattern goes over a bit, but not to worry. 1. *snip snip*
Image Notes
1. Done with the top. Now onto the legs.
Image Notes
1. Making them much wider than the original pattern.
1. And longer... 1. Cutting apart the 4 layers of fabric.
Image Notes
1. All done!
Image Notes
1. All that is left to separate them is a cut down the middle.
Image Notes
1. Almost finished separating the layered fabric.
Image Notes
1. A normal sized body piece.
Image Notes
1. One last cut down the middle.
1. *snip snip* 1. Finishing up the upper body.

1. That same cut down the middle. Notice that Kazu folded the fabric differently, it 1. Cutting out some legs.
still works.

1. Completing the top. 1. One last cut.
Step 4: Sewing the Body
The first part of the body we will be sewing together is the back seam. Now you have to think about if your character has tail, or if you just want to go back and do that
later (like we do).
Now onto the back seam, pin it up from the bottom of the crotch to the top of the neck by laying the two pieces on top of each other.
Next you need to lay out the back part of the costume so the seam you just sewed is on the ground. Layout the two body pieces you have left to line up with the outside
edges. Pin from the bottom of the leg to the bottom of the armpit to create what will be the side seams.
For this next part you need to lay it out flat again. Keeping in mind that it should still be "inside out" with all the seams showing. We will be pinning and sewing the crotch
and shoulders.
The only areas we aren't sewing are the bottom of the legs, and the arm holes. So, now we have a sweet vest with leggings that you can try on!
NOTE: The front of the costume will be open right now. Meaning, there should be no front seam sewn.
Image Notes
1. Pin pin pin...
Image Notes
1. Almost done pinning.
Image Notes
1. All finished, new sew here.
Image Notes
1. New he's pinning one of the side seams, from the leg to the bottom of the
armpit.
Image Notes
1. Sewing up one of the side seams.
Image Notes
1. Almost done...
Image Notes
1. Pinning the other side seam.
1. Both sides are finished, now it's time to pin the crotch. 1. Don't forget to pin the shoulders as well.

1. Once that is done, you can give it a test. Fits well! 1. Back seam is already sewed up, she's lining up both the side seams.
Image Notes
1. Both side seams pinned and ready to be sewn.
1. Lining up the crotch to be pinned. 1. Almost done...

1. And the shoulders, don't forget the shoulders. 1. Ready to go!
2. Shoulders too.
1. Fits well! 1. Pinning the back seam.
Image Notes
1. Also the back seam.
1. Back and side seams are sewn already, now he is onto pinning the crotch. 1. Pinning one of the side seams.
Image Notes
1. Three completed bodies.
Step 5: Cutting Out the Hood

The hood should be quite simple to cut out. Everything fits on the fabric easily. Just remember that you need to cut out two of the “Hood Piece #2”.
Side Note: Your character’s head may be a different color, the hood is the head. So, cut out the appropriate color.
(I didn't take as many pics of people doing this)

1. Starting the cutting with "Hood Piece 3". 1. All the pieces laid out, ready to be cut.
1. Finishing up "Hood Piece 2". 1. All the hood pieces, cut out.

1. Remember that you need 2 of "Hood Piece 2". 1. Finishing up.

1. Cutting out "Hood Piece 3". 1. Long piece is long.
Step 6: Sewing the Hood
Sewing the hood is probably the hardest part of this project. If you like to plan ahead and already have your character’s face cut out and designed you can sew it on the
hood now before you attach it to the body. If your character has ears, now is also a good time to sew them on (if you plan ahead). We just end up doing ours later.
The first two pieces of the hood we will be sewing together are the “Hood Piece 1” and “Hood Piece 3”. We want to find the center of the “Hood Piece 1” (which should
be at 18’’) and pin “Hood Piece 3” to it. The pictures do much more justice to explaining it, than my words.
Next we take out the two pieces “Hood Piece 2”. You can go about this part two different ways, but I find it easier to just pin one side of this piece at a time.
Choice 1: Pin “Hood Piece 2” onto “Hood Piece 3” starting with the point next to the part we just sewed on. Sew that up, then move on to Choice 2.
Choice 2: Pin “Hood Piece 2” onto “Hood Piece 1” starting with the point next to the part we just sewed on. Sew that up, then move on to Choice 1.
That was probably more confusing than it needed to be, and you can figure it out from the pictures.

1. Where you need to pin the pieces together. 1. Pin here.

1. Pointy end of "Hood Piece 2" goes here. 1. She chose here.
2. Then, you can pin it here.
3. Or here.
1. This is flipped (so the seams are facing down). Finished sewing on two sides 1. Pin here.
of "Hood Piece 2"

1. Now you need to pin the other sides of "Hood Piece 2" to the long piece 1. Now it's a hood!
"Hood Piece 1".
1. Pins in their proper place. 1. Vrrrrrooooom.
Image Notes
1. This hood was pinned to the long piece first. Rather than the small rectangle
we sewed on.

1. Same thing on the other side. 1. Almost done, just need to sew this up.
Step 7: Cutting Out the Sleeves
The sleeves are super easy to cut and assemble. They consist of a 20’’ by 22’’ rectangle, and shouldn’t need any modification.

1. *snip snip snip* 1. Nearly impossible to see the pattern on the off white fleece.
Image Notes
1. All done!

1. Just getting started. 1. Sleeves!
Step 8: Sewing the Sleeves
Sewing them is also very easy.
We start by finding the side that is 20’’ long. Fold it in half, so now we have a 10’’ by 22’’ rectangle. Pin where the fabrics meet up and sew up the sleeve.

1. Two sleeves ready to be pinned. 1. Lining up one of the sleeves to pin.
Image Notes
1. Waiting for someone to sew them.
1. Ready to be sewn! 1. 10''
2. 22''
Step 9: Attaching the Sleeves

For attaching the sleeves we need to body piece to be inside out. The sleeve, however, will be right side out.
We want the seam of the sleeve to be at the bottom of the armpit when we sew the arm on, so keep that in mind. Now we need to flip up one of the body flaps and attach
pin the sleeve from the inside.
Pictures will explain this much better than be, but be warned. We sewed sleeves some of the sleeves on the opposite way, with the seam on the outside (inside out), and
had to redo them.
I will make the annotations appropriately for this step so you know which ones are the "correct" way.

1. This one is inside out, but it should give you and idea of how they are to be 1. Pin here.
attached. 2. Again, inside out (WRONG)
1. Pin around the circle here. 1. WRONG
Image Notes
1. Pinning on the sleeve.
Image Notes
1. WRONG
2. But hey, that is what it should look like. Despite it being inside out.
Image Notes
1. Now you have a sleeve!
Image Notes
1. Ready to be sewn.
Image Notes
1. Give it another test run once you get the sleeves on.
Step 10: Attaching the Hood

To start pinning the hood on, we first need to find the collar of the body. Once that is found line up the small rectangle (Hood Piece #3) with the middle of the collar.
Only pin that piece to the collar for now.
Next we need to find the ends of “Hood Piece 1” (the long one) and find the ends of the collar as well.
Pin the ends of “Hood Piece 1” to their respective ends of the collar.
You should probably have a little extra fabric from the hood, so we will pleat it and fold it over our first rectangle we pinned on. Do this for both sides and pin the rest of
the hood on.
The hood should be ready to sew now.
1. Find the center of the hood and center of the collar. 1. Pin the only the small rectangle to the center of the collar.

1. Next pin the long piece to the edge of the collar. 1. Fold the extra fabric towards the middle and pin.Trying to make it look as neat
2. Same goes over here. Long piece to edge. as possible.
3. You're left with this extra fabric which we will just fold to the middle and
pin.

1. View from the other side. 1. Everyone pinning on their hoods.
1. Pinned. 1. Take your time sewing the hoods.
Image Notes
1. Give it another test run!
Step 11: Time for Creativity
Up til now has been all about following the pattern and creating the base of the character. Starting next we need to get creative and begin making this strangely colorful
"snuggie" into a recognizable character.
This will vary for each person and each character. Some are easy to finish, and some are hard.
But this is where the directions part of this Instructable ends, and the advice section begins.
I'll show you how and what we did for the characters we chose, but keep in mind you may have to create something completely different. These are just to give you ideas!
Image Notes
1. Favorite pin holder ever!
2. Only second to these guys.
Step 12: Finishing Details (Snorlax)

Belly
Up til now we've had the entire front of our costumes open. But for the sake of using less Velcro we want to sew up a foot or so from the bottom of the crotch.
Once that is done we need to measure out how big we want the tan belly of our Snorlax to be. To cut out the belly piece I just folded the tan fleece in half to make the
dimensions I previously measured. When we cut out a half circle we get a full one once we unfold it.
Place it on body to make sure it fits right. Once you're happy with the size if the belly we need to make a split down the top of it to where we sewed earlier in this step.
Some simple measuring will help you get the cut right.
Now we will pin and sew the part we just split to the body. Next, we will pin the rest of the belly to the body and sew that on.
Looking much better now.
Hemming
The legs ended up being too long so we decided to hem them, along with the arms. This also makes the costume look much nicer.
Ears
I find it much easier to just do the ears along with all the other "creative" parts of the project, rather than when the hood is being sewn together. We will need to split open
part of the hood to fit in the ears we cut out.
Face
Making a pattern on paper for the face is a good way to experiment on designs. Remember we want the face of the character to fit completely on "Hood Piece 1". If it
goes much farther back, the face will be on top, or back of your head, rather than the front.
I made a few changes to the design after the paper pattern.
You may need to do some of the sewing by hand for details on the face.
Claws
Snorlax isn't really that exiting, so I figured "Hey, why not". These were a pain to make and sew on. I ended up sewing the smaller (hand) claws on by hand.
Velcro
Aaron chose Velcro as his way to close up the costume. The original "Pikachu Pajamas" use buttons and go all the way down to the crotch. Velcro is much easier, and
we got away with only using four 1'' pairs.
On a side note: My Charmander costume I originally made uses a scavenged wet suit zipper. It rocks.
1. Sew up part of the front flaps. 1. Sewn.
1. Pin the legs to the desired length. 1. Sew them.

1. Measuring the size of the belly. 1. Measuring the belly some more.

1. Half of the width measurement. Fabric folded over to make an nice symmetrical 1. Lay out the ruler to mark how long to cut.
shape.
1. Now we have a belly. 1. Lookin' good!

1. Cut a slit down to where we sewed up the front flap. 1. All done.

1. Line up the sides of the belly with their respective body flaps. 1. Pin each side.
1. One side done. 1. Both sides done. Now, sew them.

1. Remove the pins, and start pinning the rest of the belly to the body. 1. Almost half way there.

1. Done pinning. 1. Ziggi wanted to help.
1. Take your time sewing this part. 1. Time to design the face.

1. Yes! 1. Cut it out.

1. Don't forget the ears, too! 1. Sew them.
1. Give em' a flip, and now you have some Snorlax ears. 1. We need to rip out part of a seam on the hood to put the ears in.

1. Ear pinned in. 1. View from the other side.

1. You can't tell, but it's sewn in there. 1. Do the same for the other ear.
1. Ta da! 1. Put the face on the hood.

1. I decided to do some trimming. 1. Cut out the eyes, mouth, and teeth.

1. Pin and sew the black parts on. 1. Looks good!
1. Now, pin on the teeth. 1. Teeth sewed on.

1. Pin the face onto the hood. It's a good idea to try it on and make sure it looks 1. Sewn on.
how you want it.

1. Pin the sleeves, to hem them. 1. Both sleeves.
Image Notes
1. Looks much better, now.

1. Time to cut out some claws. 1. This part takes a while....

1. Sew them, but leave the bottom open so we can flip them. 1. I had to trim the little ones to flip them right side out.
1. Little (hand) claws. 1. Foot claws pinned on.

1. Hand claws pinned on. 1. Foot ones sewed on with the machine.

1. Small ones were sewn on by hand. 1. And the other hand.
Image Notes
1. 4 pairs.
Image Notes
1. Costume is a little big for me. All that's left is the Velcro.
Image Notes
1. Velcro sewn on.
Image Notes
1. Checking out his latest investment.
1. So warm and fuzzy! 1. One happy camper.
Step 13: Finishing Details (Poliwhirl)

Belly and Swirl
Just like Snorlax, we need to sew up part of the front corresponding to the size of the zipper we bought.
Next we need to find a large circle shaped thingy (I chose a hula hoop) and cut out the white part of the belly. Then I found a smaller circle and cut out a piece of black.
To make the swirl I just kept cutting the edge off the black circle keeping about an inch away the whole time. Turned out great, and it was the perfect amount, too.
Now we need to pin and sew the black swirl to the white belly. This takes a while.
Next we need to lay out our belly-swirl over our body to find out how far we need to cut down to make room for the zipper. Make the cut, and then pin and sew that onto
the body.
Pin the rest of the belly-swirl to the body and sew it on.
Hemming
Hem the sleeves and legs so they look awesome and fit better.
Eyes
Cut out some circles in black and white, just like the characters. Pin them in place to see if they look good. First time I tried they were too far apart and looked more like
The Cookie Monster's. I sewed on the large white circle with the machine and did all the other smaller details by hand.
Zipper
I attached the zipper last. It's as simple as pinning it on and sewing.
Image Notes
1. Laid out the zipper, seeing how far to sew up the front flaps.

1. To there. 1. Sewn up, from the crotch.

1. Found a large circular thing to make the white belly part. 1. Worked wonderfully!
1. A smaller circle for the black swirl. 1. Preparing to cut.

1. Voila! 1. Now comes the fun part of cutting that circle into a swirl.

1. Place it on, over the white belly. 1. Start pinning.
1. Pinning took me a good 15 minutes. 1. All sewn on.

1. Now we need to figure out how much we need to cut. 1. Cut and line up with the body flaps.

1. Pin and sew. 1. Looks good!
1. Pin the rest of the belly on, and sew it. 1. Finished sewing, now remove the pins and try it on.
Image Notes
1. We need to hem the legs and sleeves.
Image Notes
1. Swirly.
1. Ready to be sewn. 1. Same for the sleeves.

1. Sewn up. 1. Cut out appropriate black and white circles to make the eyes.

1. Place them on the head. These were too far apart. 1. Pin them when you get em' in the right spot.
1. Sewed the nostrils on by hand. 1. And the small white part of the eye by hand.
Image Notes
1. All that's left is the zipper. Pin it on, and sew it.
Image Notes
1. Poliwhirl!
Step 14: Finishing Details (Piplup)
Finished on 8-10-10
Body Details
First thing I did was sew up part of the front flaps. I only got 4 buttons and that didn't seem like enough for the whole length.
Next was cutting out the dark blue details on Piplup's body. I started by measuring the width I needed then folded the fabric I was going to cut in half, to get a symmetrical
shape.
I then cut out the white circles for the front of the body.
Pin and sew on the front blue parts, and the white circles.
Next we need to make the tail, which will attach into the back blue part. Sew the tail into the dark blue body part before attaching it to the body.
Pin and sew, then you're all done with the body details.
Hemming
Just like all the other ones, I hemmed the legs and arms.
Face
The faces just look better if you keep them on the long hood piece. I started trying to make it larger, but it just looked horrible. After trimming it down multiple times, and
trying it on a few times as well. I found a configuration that worked.
All the larger pieces were sewn on with the machine but the small eye details were done by hand.
Buttons
I've never done buttons before. It turned out well, and looks pretty snazzy too.
1. Sewing up this part. 1. All done.

1. Back piece laid out for a test. 1. Front piece, as well.

1. Cut this in half. 1. All ready to be sewn.
1. Testing out the white circles. 1. Pin and prepare to sew.

1. Ready to be hemmed. 1. Feet too.

1. All done. 1. Front part sewn on.
1. ...and the circles. 1. The tail.

1. Pinned into the back piece. 1. Sewn up.

1. Pin and sew the back piece on. 1. Now, all that's left is the face and buttons.
1. Trying out my design. 1. Sew on the blue piece first.

1. Then the white. 1. Purdy.

1. Next comes the beak. 1. Then the eyes.
1. What they will look like, but not sewn yet. 1. Wonky picture of the eyes sewn.
Image Notes
1. Layout for the small eye details.
1. Face complete. 1. Button and button hole.

1. Our recipient is off in her hometown, but she'll be back to receive it soon. Evan 1. I felt this one turned out the best.
shall be a decent stand in.
1. So hugable! 1. Show em' yer larvard side.
Step 15: Finishing Details (Quilava)

Finished on 9-2-10
Body Details
The first thing we did with the body was sew up part of the front flap according to the length of the zipper we bought.
Next we went about cutting and measuring the blue back piece. Once we got that the right size we sewed it on.
The fire butt was our next task. She cut out a design out of felt and sewed it on top of the blue piece.
Hemming
Just like all the other costumes we hemmed the arm and leg sleeves.
Face
The blue hood piece was probably the hardest part about doing this pokemon. We had to consider the "fire mow-hawk" and also the placement and size of the ears. This
part resulted in a lot trial and error sizing. Once we got he right shape she attached the fire, and then sewed the whole piece to the hood.
Next we cut out some ears and sewed them together.
Getting the eyes to be the right size was quite difficult. It's just a matter of creating some that are too big, then trimming them until they look right.
Make sure to pin the eyes on to test them. Then sew them on when they're in the right place.
Zipper
Sew on the zipper. Then you're all done!
Image Notes
1. Sewn up the front flaps.
1. Hem the legs and arms. 1. Laying out the back blue piece.

1. Cut to a decent size. 1. Pinned.

1. Sewn on. 1. Future butt flames.
1. Shazam! 1. Pinned on.
Image Notes
1. They hang down and cover where we sewed.

1. Some head flames cut out. 1. The arduous task of creating another blue hood/head piece.
1. Head flames sewn into it. We didn't document this getting sewn onto the main 1. Ear pieces before they are sewn together.
body, but it basically explains itself.

1. All done. 1. Mock up of the eyes. This took quite a few tries/placements/trimming.

1. All we have left is the black part. 1. Mmm, looking good.
Image Notes
1. Both eyes done.
Image Notes
1. Pinning the ears on.
Image Notes
1. Very clean looking.
Image Notes
1. Sewn on by hand.

1. Close up of the ear stitches. 1. More stitches hidden under the red part.
1. I'm looking this way! 1. Now I'm looking this way!
Image Notes
1. All that's left is the zipper.
Image Notes
1. *zzzzrp*
Image Notes
1. Quilava is finished!

1. Quality Macbook photos. 1. Trying to show off her butt flames.
Step 16: (Chancey)
Finished on 10-29-10
Body Details
The first thing I did was sew up part of the front. I sewed about a foot of it up, from the crotch. Then, I cut out a stencil for the "egg pouch", and cut out that piece on bring
pink fleece. I modified the stencil for the "egg", and then cut out that piece.
The only other detail Chansey has is its tail. I just cut out a shape that seemed right, and sewed together the two halves. Flipped the piece inside out, and sewed it into
the back seam.
Hemming
Face
I started with cutting out pieces for the "dreadlock" things that are on Chansey's head. Once I had all six of those cut out, I sewed them together, making each
"dreadlock."
Next I cut out pieces to the face. I got it right the first time, so I sewed it onto the hood, by hand, after finding the correct placement.
Once the face was sewn on, I pinned on the "dreadlocks" and used the machine to sew those to the hood.
Velcro
I went with Velcro on this one. I was trying to keep it as cheap as possible, and Velcro is also the easiest to sew on.
Image Notes
1. Ready for some details.

1. Egg pouch stencil, made out of paper. 1. The egg pouch.
1. About where it should go. 1. Pinned to where I'm sewing up part of the front flaps.

1. Sewn 1. Pinned the legs for hemming.

1. ...and the sleeves. 1. Now they're nice and pretty.
1. Egg stencil. 1. Egg and pouch, united at last.

1. Split the egg. 1. Pin and sew onto the body.
Image Notes
1. Pin and sew the pouch on over it.
1. Lookin' good. 1. Tail.

1. Sewn and flipped tail. 1. Tail is ready to be sewn in.

1. Pinned and ready to go. 1. Tails are good.
1. First parts of the "dreadlocks" 1. Second parts.

1. Put together. 1. Sewn together.

1. My floor is happy. 1. Not quite right...
1. There we go! 1. Stitch on the face, by hand.

1. Next come the eyes. 1. Looks good!

1. Pin and sew the "dreads" on. 1. Finished product!
Step 17: (Totoro)
Body Details
I stared with cutting a belly piece out of tan fleece. A good way to keep it symmetric is to fold the fabric in half, and cut out a half circle. Next, I cut out the little
"mustaches" that go on Totoro's chest. They were a little big, so I ended up needing to trim them down to fit all of them on there.
Sewing the "mustaches" onto the belly is the next step. This takes a while.
Once that's done you can pin and sew the belly onto the main body. Remember to sew up part of the main body piece.
I made the tail very wide, and ended up needing to cut a slit horizontally in the back of the costume to attach it.. I pinned it like you would a sleeve, and sewed it on that
way. Now there's a secret tail pocket.
Hemming
Face
Cut out the desired shapes for the ears, and sew the pieces together. Flip them inside out, and decided where you want to attach them. I ended up stuffing the ears with
polyester fiberfill.
The face is pretty simple, except for the mouth. This one was a commission, and after showing the customer some pics of the face, we decided to change it's mouth to
being more "cute." You can see these changes reflected in some of the final pictures.
Buttons
I did buttons again for these next two. This time I used the automatic buttonhole on my sewing machine. Once I figured it out, it worked quite well.
Image Notes
1. A body piece ready for some details.
1. Legs pinned for hemming. 1. Very purdy.

1. Sleeves pinned for hemming. 1. ...and those are done.

1. Cut out a belly piece. 1. Making mustaches.
1. 7 mustaches. That's 7 more than I can grow. 1. I had to cut them down from their original size.
Image Notes
1. Sewn onto the belly, but not the body.

1. Cut out tail, pinned. 1. Sewn together. Time to flip it inside-out.
1. It shall go here. 1. Cut a new hole for it.

1. I pinned it like the sleeves. 1. Now you can use it as extra storage.
Image Notes
1. Cut out ears.
1. Sewn. 1. Fill them up with some polyester fiberfill.

1. Nice and squishy. 1. Figuring out the placement.

1. Sewn on. 1. I made the face pretty quickly.
1. Pin and sew the belly onto the main body piece. 1. Remember to cut this slit.

1. Eyes. 1. Everything pinned.

1. Mouth sewn on. 1. Eyes sewn on.
1. ...and finally the nose. 1. All it needs now are buttons.
Image Notes
1. Shazam!
Image Notes
1. Change of plans...
Image Notes
1. The final face.
Step 18: (Snorlax #2)

This one is almost identical to the first Snorlax I made. This was a commission, hence the repeat of characters.
I found some better colored fabric for this once, and just about the only changes I made were to the claws. Instead of making them out of 2 pieces of fleece, I just used
one. It ended up looking a lot nicer, and is much easier to do. Plus, it's more comfortable.
Image Notes
1. Ready for some details.

1. Pin the legs and sleeves for hemming. 1. Looks good.
1. Sew up part of the front flaps. 1. ...just like that.

1. Fabric folded in half to make a symmetric belly. 1. Ta-da!

1. Cut a slit down it. 1. Here are the ears.
1. Sewn. 1. ...and flipped.
Image Notes
1. Sewn into place.

1. Pin on the belly. 1. I like doing this part after the outside circle.
1. All sewn up. 1. Time for a face.

1. Pin and sew. 1. Layout the face design.

1. Cut out some claws. 1. Pinned.
Image Notes
1. Large claws for feet.

1. All done. I like these better than the other Snorlax. 1. Pin on some small ones.

1. These go on the sleeves. 1. All done!
1. BUTTONS! 1. It looks so relaxed.
Step 19: Final Notes and Comments

Completion time
Again, this depends a lot on what character you are doing. You could finish a character like Snorlax in a day, but you might want to set aside a weekend to finish some of
the more detail oriented ones.
Uses
Anything and everything! If you're cold throw it on. Need a sweet costume for Halloween, make this! Or if you just like dressing up as derpy looking Pokemon, this is for
you!
Washing
I haven't actually washed any of these yet. I am assuming you can wash it just like you would any other fleece blanket.
Here are my suggestions:
1. Turn your fleece item inside-out to prevent piling
2. Machine wash at in cold water with a mild detergent.
3. Machine dry at a low temperature, or just let it air dry.
Questions, comments?
I get comments emailed to me, so if you have any questions or need any help feel free to drop me a line.
Thanks for reading, hope you enjoyed.
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment view all 79 comments
Alimaria says: Aug 8, 2010. 11:09 PM REPLY

With the magical aid of this tutorial, I was able to make a Gengar Costume. And it was super easy with the directions.
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Aug 8, 2010. 11:11 PM REPLY

Thanks for posting the pics!
Raymark2 says: Oct 3, 2012. 6:12 PM REPLY

Thank you so much, I can't believe I actually found this! I was searching for a Charmander costume last year but I wanted to just buy one. So this was long
lost and I finally stumbled upon this!!!
The question starts here v v v v v
This year I am getting help to make a costume so I was just wondering, Is there any way to make this cove my face?

Sorry, I meant cover*
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Oct 3, 2012. 10:11 PM REPLY

Hrm. That's a tough one.
The only way I can think of is adding a zipper to the front of the hood. Like those zip up hoodies (that keep going past the neck). You'd probably have
to add some eye holes, change up the pattern from what I have (it'd probably be too baggy), and re-arrange where the face goes.
Seems do-able, though.

Okay thank you!
cracka350z says: Sep 30, 2012. 2:04 AM REPLY

sooo....if i wanted you to make me a meowth version of this...how much :D if you feel like it lol. i suck at sewing and know no one that can.
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Sep 30, 2012. 1:22 PM REPLY
Ah, sorry.
As of late, there's just not enough hours in the day for me.
SNOOORLAAX says: Sep 9, 2012. 3:55 PM REPLY

I love this and I am Going to make if for Halloween but I have a few questions. If I want to make pikachu will I need to purchase any extra fabric for the ears
and tail? Also I am a very skinny short 5"2 girl so should I make any size adjustments to this?
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Sep 10, 2012. 10:21 AM REPLY

If you get 3 yards of fabric I'm pretty sure that should be enough for the ears and the tail.
Just remember that you'll need to get some brown for the tail, and different colors for the face.
As far as adjustments go, you shouldn't need to change the size from the original pattern. You'll just do your size adjustments when you hem the arms
and legs.
SNOOORLAAX says: Sep 10, 2012. 5:34 PM REPLY

okay thankyou :)
mysilentdeath13 says: Sep 7, 2012. 7:11 PM REPLY

Also, how much fabric did you use to make snorlax's belly and all the smaller details?

Tough to say... I think I ended up getting a yard of the tan (for the belly/face), and a yard of white (for claws).
If you go that route, you'll have plenty left over. I just wouldn't know if less than 1 yard would be wide enough for the dimensions of the belly.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
mysilentdeath13 says: Sep 6, 2012. 2:49 AM REPLY

Hi, I know this is from a while back, but i was wondering if you knew how much fabric i would need to purchase for this project??

3 yards should be enough.
Step 2 covers how much fabric you will need, along with various other materials.
olympic 50 says: Sep 5, 2012. 8:54 PM REPLY

i mean not to be a bother but i was wondering how long did it take for the snorlax overall because i was planning to make one for a sewing class in school
but i dont have all year so yeah... if you can get back to me ASAP it would be great thanks.

Almost all of the costumes on here took about one weekend of work. While it was never 48 straight hours of sewing, they still take a good amount of
dedication over 2 days.
The Snorlax one was probably right around that mark. The claws are probably the most time consuming part, but I think you could easily pull this off in a
sewing class.
Good luck!
cosborne3 says: Jul 8, 2012. 11:24 AM REPLY

Wow...Nice kigurumi tutorial!!!! You could also do other characters...Might I suggest for magical girl anime fans Luna, Artemis, or Diana from Sailor Moon. Or
for Pretty Cure fans, there are lots of fairy mascots to select from. You could even go really far back into the archives and do one of the little alien cats from
Creamy Mami!
jennblaise says: Jun 20, 2012. 9:49 PM REPLY

Do the ears stand up on their own?
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Jun 22, 2012. 2:11 PM REPLY

No, you'd need to put some wire or supporting structure in them to make them do that.
gryffinpuff73 says: Jun 10, 2012. 10:14 AM REPLY
you are my new favorite person!!! Totally making one of these! or 5...
cmbooher says: May 28, 2012. 3:00 AM REPLY

I ended up making two of these, and they were very simple and quick to make! I made them in one day, and had fun doing it :) I made two Wobbuffets(a girl
and a boy so my boyfriend and I match when we're being lazy), and they turned out very soft and cute! Thank you so much - he loved it!
N3rdPrinc3ss says: Feb 18, 2012. 5:14 AM REPLY

Darn! was really hoping for a finishing part for Pikachu! Oh well, wish me luck! This is a great instructable! :D
spiritshepherd says: Dec 4, 2011. 1:02 PM REPLY

Thank you for making this. Its really awesome and I can't wait to create a ton of "Snuggies". :D
jlofaso says: Oct 24, 2011. 10:14 PM REPLY

Working on a Cubone one, NO IDEA on how to do the skull, we shall see!
Xyniffta says: Oct 22, 2011. 8:59 PM REPLY

I LOVE this!! I'm totally making an oddish, bulbasaur, and ampharos one as christmas presents.
hle raawr says: Oct 22, 2011. 1:08 PM REPLY

I'm finding it kind of hard to get hold of some fleece, what other fabrics would work? Also (separate question), since summer is starting soon, which fabrics
can I use that are not as hot as fleece.

I really don't have any suggestions. It's probably more of a matter of you going to the fabric store, finding one that has suitable colors, and is thin enough.
Supermoo had a question very similar down below. You could send them a message and ask specifically what they used, and what advice they have. I
haven't tried making it with a different material, so I really couldn't say what works, but they might have some useful tips.
Good luck! Sorry if I wasn't much help...
tang6567 says: Oct 10, 2011. 9:20 AM REPLY

I'm planning on making a Chikorita version for Halloween. Do the patterns' measurements include allowances for seams?
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Oct 10, 2011. 11:28 AM REPLY

Yeah, they basically do. I think I mention it a few times in the Instructable that things don't really need to be perfect. The dimensions I've provided give
enough leeway, where you can have a pretty large seam and things will still turn out fine.
Good luck!
rkin5 says: Oct 2, 2011. 3:28 PM REPLY

Love it, but Totoro is not a Pokemon

That's a good point... I never really updated the title since I added that one. I'll get on it, thanks.
cattibalistic says: Sep 15, 2011. 1:07 PM REPLY

I made one of these out of a real snuggie.
suayres says: Sep 5, 2011. 6:42 AM REPLY

Great instructable, BUT! I'd really like to a photo of the actual, finished totoro!
They're all on step 17, but I added a few here!
elimasmx says: Jul 21, 2011. 11:45 AM REPLY

Awesome! I'm going to make the eevee evolutions (:
I'll go to buy the materials on Saturday :D
mary candy says: Jun 21, 2011. 11:22 AM REPLY

Cute custom :)
I loved.
Supermoo says: Feb 23, 2011. 6:48 PM REPLY

hey do you think this costume would work with different material?? cuz i was hoping to make one for the anime convention but that will be in june, and i dont
want to melt XD
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Mar 6, 2011. 8:27 PM REPLY

Gah! Sorry it took me so long to get back to you, I've been busy with school lately and my gmail inbox has been overflowing.
You could very easily do this with any material. I don't have any particular suggestions, but I feel that if you make the fabric too light and thin it may just
end up looking like a weird Pokemon themed robe.
They aren't ridiculously warm if you wear light clothes underneath. My band played half a show in our costumes with just an undershirt and some gym
shorts underneath, and we were doing some sweat inducing activities. Having a fleece one in a convention center with light clothes on underneath will
probably be fine.
That's my two cents.
Supermoo says: Jun 7, 2011. 6:30 PM REPLY

thanks for the advice but sadly by the time i got it i had already bought my material, oh well... im done with the body and it looks fine with the thinner
material that i chose, it is a little see through but if i wear something light colored underneath it will look fine :] and btw im making an amphoros. i shall
post pics of the finished product!!
juicymoose says: Apr 12, 2011. 1:39 AM REPLY

Im doing mine rattatatta i will put on when finished
juicymoose says: Apr 11, 2011. 6:17 AM REPLY

Fab, piplup soooooo cute !!
theemil says: Mar 26, 2011. 8:07 PM REPLY

This is great! I love how you included so much detail in your instructions. It's such a simple project that if people actually pay attention to your instructions
they shouldn't have any problem on making their own.
This is going to be a hit with all my friends. They're all obsessed with Pokemon.
I appreciate all the hard work you've put into your instructable. :D
tearsofxtc says: Mar 16, 2011. 8:04 PM REPLY

How much material do you think you used??
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Mar 16, 2011. 8:08 PM REPLY

Somewhere around 2.5 - 3 yards if you're following the pattern directly, and 3 - 3.5 yards if you're extending the legs.
Step 2 has the same information.
Alimaria says: Jan 7, 2011. 3:26 PM REPLY
Win! Very much so!
HaliR says: Dec 31, 2010. 4:59 PM REPLY

I'm trying to do an Eevee Snuggie but i don't know how i should do the furry mane-type thing it has. i have fur, but i'm not sure if that would be better that just
white fleece. help? :)
LegoBrickMaster7 says: Dec 31, 2010. 9:54 PM REPLY

Hmm...
I think the fur might look a little out of place if you're using fleece for the body. I would try to craft a stuffed portion of the costume out of fleece. That's just
my opinion, but it's all up to you!
Happy new year! :P
N3CR0K1TTY says: Dec 29, 2010. 12:10 PM REPLY

kigirumi tutorial!yay!
OMGthatsSNAZZY says: Dec 21, 2010. 1:58 AM REPLY

Would it be possible to get a pattern sent to me? idk where you got it from... I live in New Zealand, but you can post stuff here for around 5 dollars. i would be
more than happy to pay. I REALLY want a Plusle one!
Also is there any chance of me commissioning you to make me a plusle one?
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Food Living Outside Play Technology Workshop

"Snuggie" Character Costume

"Snuggie" Character Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro: "Snuggie" Character Costume . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1: The Pattern and Some Size Issues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3: Cutting Out the Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 4: Sewing the Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 5: Cutting Out the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Step 6: Sewing the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Step 7: Cutting Out the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 8: Sewing the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Step 9: Attaching the Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Step 10: Attaching the Hood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Step 11: Time for Creativity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Step 12: Finishing Details (Snorlax) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Step 13: Finishing Details (Poliwhirl) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Step 14: Finishing Details (Piplup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Step 15: Finishing Details (Quilava) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

Step 16: (Chancey) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Step 17: (Totoro) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

Step 18: (Snorlax #2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Step 19: Final Notes and Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

Intro: "Snuggie" Character Costume

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Step 1: The Pattern and Some Size Issues

Body and Legs (Cut out 4 of these)

Sleeves (Cut out 2 of these)

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Step 3: Cutting Out the Body

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Step 5: Cutting Out the Hood

(I didn't take as many pics of people doing this)

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Step 9: Attaching the Sleeves

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Step 10: Attaching the Hood

Only pin that piece to the collar for now.

The hood should be ready to sew now.

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Step 12: Finishing Details (Snorlax)

Looking much better now.

I made a few changes to the design after the paper pattern.

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