Whisky Advocate - March 2020 (MagazinePUB - Com)

IRISH SINGLE POT STILL WHISKEY • THE ISLE OF SKYE • NOT-QUITE WHISKEY
SPECIAL REPORT
VOLUME 29, NUMBER 1 SPRING 2020
102
F EAT UR ES
56 Flipping Whiskey by Sean Evans 85 Whiskey Imposters by Charles K. Cowdery

Bourbon lovers desperate for a coveted bottle often Whiskeys lining the shelves of the liquor store aren’t all what
find themselves staring down outrageous prices— they seem. Go deep into the rules about what is, and isn’t,
and illegal transactions—on the secondary market. whiskey, and you’ll regard familiar labels in a new light.
Who benefits from this shadowy world?
90 Adventure Island by Gavin D Smith
76 Back From The Brink by David Fleming Scotland’s Isle of Skye offers dramatic landscapes,
Single pot still whiskey built Ireland’s thriving photogenic destinations, and ample whisky. This
distilling industry—then it all came crashing down. guide highlights everything you shouldn’t miss.
PETER GARRITANO
Now established distillers and newcomers alike

are breathing fresh life into the unique style. 102 It Takes A Village by Liza Weisstuch
The people and industries that work alongside craft
distillers have a tremendous impact on the final
Cover photograph by Jeff Harris whiskey. Meet the trades support craft distilling.
DE PART MEN T S
9 From the Publisher

by Marvin R. Shanken
11 Dear Whisky Advocate

40 Letters to the editor
18 Event Report
WhiskyFest New York served
up whisky and education in
spades on December 3, 2019.
21 Distillations
MEANDER through charming
Baltimore, BET ON whisky lists
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DAVID YELLEN; JEFF HARRIS / DRINK STYLING BY TYNA HOANG; GLENN MILLER; MICHAEL G. PRINCE
at casino bars, PAIR a dram
with pickles, ADD some fizz to
your cocktails, RELISH bakery
flavors, VENTURE into rum
49 Straight Talk
by Charles K. Cowdery
The line between innovation and
authenticity isn’t always so clear, but
35 36 it’s also not cause for concern.
50 Head, Heart & Tales

by Jonny McCormick
Distillers are making great progress
in sustainability on the production
side. Time for packaging to catch up.
53 The Thinking Drinker

by Stephen Beaumont
The best thing a bar can offer
isn’t a cold beer or a great
whisky—it’s comfort.
111 Buying Guide

Reviews of the latest whisky releases
123 I’m a Whisky Advocate

Photos from our readers
124 A Lighter Dram

by Terry Sullivan
That emoji may be worth a thousand
words, but think about what
22 you’re actually communicating.
TH E WH I S KY ADV OCAT E
Why Can’t I Find This Whisky?
T
he single most common com- tified for obvious reasons. and Buying Guide reviewer David Flem-
plaint we hear from readers is His 41,000 words of transcripts are dis- ing traveled to Ireland to offer a thorough
that they can’t find a particular tilled in our cover story, Flipping Whiskey lesson in this historic whiskey style. You’ll
whisky at their local retailer— (page 56). It presents a fascinating dive into find distillation details and superb whiskey
especially when it comes to the thriving, generally illegal secondary mar- recommendations in his feature story, Back
bourbon and other American whiskeys. ket for desirable whiskeys, and the complex From the Brink (page 76), chronicling the
Many of you write us asking where to locate forces that shape it. Whisky lovers who have welcome return of Irish pot still whiskey.
a particular bottle, or why you can’t find it, struggled to locate that special bottle will find And over in Scotland, Gavin D Smith ven-
or expressing frustration because a coveted some answers, and even more questions. tures to the popular Isle of Skye—home to
whisky is available, but priced many times Keep your inquisitive hat on as contributor Talisker Distillery—to take in the sights on
higher than expected. Charles K. Cowdery explores whiskeys that this stunning island and offer insider tips to
Unfortunately, there is no simple expla- aren’t always what they seem. His feature beat the crowds.
nation. So in this issue, writer Sean Evans on page 85 pulls back the curtain on familiar I hope you enjoy this issue and share it
illuminates the unusual times in which we brands that aren’t technically whiskey at all, with your friends.
are living, where American whiskey, and to explaining their legal classifications and why My best,
some extent Japanese and other whiskies as you may not even realize there’s a difference.
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY
well, disappear from the shelves of licensed Irish whiskey lovers have surely noticed
retailers almost instantly. In chasing down the proliferation of Irish whiskeys in our
the whereabouts of these rare whiskeys pages, including the rise of small craft dis-
Evans spent over three months interviewing tillers and impressive scores from veteran
more than two dozen sources including law producers. Many of the best share a common
enforcement, distillers, retailers, and illicit lineage, crafted in the uniquely Irish single Marvin R. Shanken
resellers, some of whom declined to be iden- pot still style. Veteran M. Shanken editor Editor & Publisher
WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 9

Dear Whisky Advocate...
BAFFLED BY BOTTLED IN BOND
Dear Whisky Advocate,
As I celebrate the New Year I can attest
that your Whisky of the Year award (First
place out of 20) to George Dickel 13 year old
Bottled in Bond is a good decision. Cascade
Hollow Distilling Company is punching
above their weight with this release. How-
ever, I do have questions about the labeling of
this product.
My understanding of the Bottled in Bond
Act of 1897 is that distillers must store and
age whiskeys in government bonded ware-
houses under the supervision of Treasury Act included many provisions that are no lon- change to accommodate all this new atten-
agents for it to comply with the act and be ger required, like engraved strip stamps across tion. Or quite possibly not, as the Dickel folks
labeled as such. I have toured distilleries that the mouth of the bottle, information “burned seem to know how to keep it simple.
produce bonded products where tour guides on the side of each case,” and on-site Treasury Congratulations to everyone at George
point out bonded warehouses as something agents. Today, bottled in bond is governed by Dickel and the Cascade Hollow Distillery.
separate and different than regular ware- Federal Code 27 CFR § 5.42. The code main- Stay American!
houses. Correct me if I am wrong: a distillery tains many aspects of the 1897 Act, including Jim Hennessy
cannot simply pull distilled and aged prod- that the spirit must be of a single type, from a
uct out of regular warehouses and label it as single distilling season, aged at least 4 years, Hello Jim,
bonded because the product has not been with no additions except water, and bottled at Thanks for sharing your experience with our
aged in the warehouses specifically super- 100 proof. However, there is no requirement for Whisky of the Year. We certainly share your
vised by Treasury agents. bonded warehouses. Presumably, this is also fondness for the work being done at Dickel and
Your review of this George Dickel prod- because essentially all modern warehouses are hope this recognition inspires them to keep do-
uct states: “[General manager and distiller bonded. ing exactly what they have been doing.
Nicole] Austin set about cherry-picking the
warehouses for exceptional barrels.” This DELIGHTED FOR DICKEL PARTY TIME!
statement implies that she pulled barrels Dear Whisky Advocate, Hey Whisky Advocate,
from regular George Dickel warehouses. I just received my year-end issue of Whisky I was reading your fabulous magazine from
Unless George Dickel set up government- Advocate and what a great surprise to read cover to cover and ripping out pages to make
bonded warehouses in the fall of 2005 (July- that George Dickel Distillery [received] the a binder of ideas and bourbons to add to my
December, the fall distilling season from the Whisky of the Year Award! Finally, the world 100-bottle bourbon collection.
Bottled in Bond Act), how is their product makes its way to the backwoods of Tulla- I was so disappointed to find out when I
certified and labeled as “bonded” for sale to homa, Tennessee. returned to my resort room in Mexico; the
consumers? I discovered Dickel in 2015, while on my way maid threw all of my hard work and pages
Are we being bamboozled by a fancy label, to Lynchburg and a visit to Jack Daniel. Prior away. Could you please resend me Whisky
purchasing a product that is very good but to Jack’s place, we stopped at Dickel, and it Advocate “Party Time” (Fall 2019) again? I
does not comply with the federal standards of was well worth it. The folks at Cascade Hollow would really like to complete my binder with
a government purity act passed into law over Distillery are very simple and accommodating. party ideas and bourbons to buy.
a century prior? Their facility is just an old small house with Your appreciative fan,
Sincerely, lots of character; makes you feel very welcome. Jean Algate
Aaron Shipley A good old boy kicked up some gravel and
asked if we wanted to take a tour. Hell yeah! Hi Jean,
Good day Aaron, I am glad, and sad, to see this award honor- Thanks for the kind words and for taking
We are delighted you enjoyed our Whisky of ing the Dickel achievement. Glad as in good Whisky Advocate on your Mexican vaca-
the Year and thank you for raising this inter- for them, as they certainly have earned it and tion. You should have your replacement issue
esting question. The first thing to know is that deserve it. Sad, as sometimes awards tend by now and if you want a copy you can’t lose,
the Bottled in Bond Act of 1897 created this to change things. People will descend upon there is a digital version available by subscrip-
style, but it’s no longer the relevant law. This Tullahoma, and the little place will have to tion on Zinio at whiskyadvocate.com.

graduate school. “That’s when I old Bottled in Bond, Vnek
started appreciating scotches,” received bottles of Dewar’s 21
he says. Vnek honed his taste for year old Double Double and Four
scotch both stateside and on Roses Small Batch Select—a
several trips to Scotland—one of small but well-rounded collection
which was especially notable. including a Tennessee whiskey, a
“My wife and I went to Scotland blended scotch, and a bourbon.
on our honeymoon, which just Vnek invited his coworkers at
shows you the fervor of my Savills, the commercial real
interest in whisky and how estate brokerage firm where he
accommodating my wife could works as senior managing
be,” he says, adding, “Because it director, to join him for an
was in October, which is not the informal tasting after work. “We
best time to be in Scotland.” tried to be as objective as
On another trip to Scotland, possible,” he says, adding that
Meet our 2019 Top 20 Vnek was introduced to Mortlach, the group was in general
Sweepstakes Winner which would become his favorite

whisky. “I’d never heard of it, but
agreement with the Whisky
Advocate tasting panel on the
it is far and away the most excellence of the George Dickel
A
lthough he doesn’t “It was just pure happenstance,” refined whisky I’ve ever had,” he 13 year old Bottled in Bond. “I
necessarily consider Vnek says, adding that he entered says. Although scotch ignited his think all three were obviously
himself unlucky, Norbert the sweepstakes on a spontane- whisky journey, Vnek’s now refers very strong in their flavor
“Norb” Vnek says he has never ous whim. And while winning may to himself as “almost exclusively profiles.” he says.
won a contest. That unfortunate be new for the 53 year old an American whiskey drinker.” Whisky Advocate congratu-
streak came to a surprising end Montclair, N.J. resident, his Currently, he is especially fond of lates Vnek on his good fortune
when his name was drawn at appreciation for whisky dates Stranahan’s from Colorado, an and commends him for sharing
random from 12,947 entries in back decades. “I’m not a casual American single malt with a the joy of whisky. “I thought it’d
Whisky Advocate’s 2019 Top 20 drinker,” he declares. “I’m defi- flavor profile that he describes as be cool to share them with my
Sweepstakes, awarding him the nitely an ardent whisky advocate.” “fantastic in its spiciness.” coworkers,” he says. “They
top three whiskies, including the By Vnek’s recollection, his love In addition to 2019 Whisky of deserve it.”
Whisky of the Year. for the spirit blossomed in the Year, George Dickel 13 year —Sam Stone
Dear Whisky Advocate, attention one that I recently sampled during Shalom Matt,
We were so inspired by the party ideas in the a trip to Israel. It’s wonderful to hear about new whiskies
Fall edition that we hosted a Robbie Burns The whisky industry in Israel is still very from our readers as we continue to monitor the
night with an Old Fashioned bar. We also new. Of the only two distilleries that I am expansion of single malts around the world.
made the Single Barrel Bacon Whiskey Jam aware of, the oldest, Golan Heights Distill- As whiskies become more available in the U.S.,
and the Whisky Cheese Ball. The jam paired ery, was founded in 2014. The other, Milk we will put them to the taste test in our Buying
very well with the haggis! Throw in a Scot- & Honey, still only has a new-make and a Guide. It’s interesting to see how different cli-
tish trifle and some shortbread, and it was a young single malt available…they haven’t even mates impact the aging of single malts. Thanks
huge success. reached the 3-year point in aging their whisky. for bringing this one to our attention.
Cheers, It is about the Golan Heights Distillery, and
Phil and Suzanne Thorpe their Israeli Single Malt Single Cask Edition, Dear Whisky Advocate,
that I wanted to write to you. In doing my re- Fantastic special issue on “Starting Your
Greetings Phil and Suzanne, search in advance of the trip, finding a place Own Tasting Club.” I suggest adding a step
It’s so kind of you to write and share how you to buy Cuban cigars and Israeli whisky was to tasting: “Shut your trap.” After sipping,
were inspired by our suggestions for entertain- top on my list. Thanks to Porto Vino in Tel one enjoys the flavors and finish more fully
ing with whisky. It sounds like an incredible Aviv, I was able to get both. I bought a bottle by keeping one’s mouth closed for at least 30
night you put together for your very lucky that was aged 3 years. To say that this whisky seconds, sometimes longer with great whis-
guests! surprised me would be an understatement. kies that have a long finish.
For being only 3 years old, I thought it had Steve Sapp
WHISKY FROM THE HOLY LAND the mellow sweetness of a 15 year old scotch.
Dear Whisky Advocate, I hope that you and your staff can find a way Hi Steve,
RACHEL VANNI
I enjoy your magazine very much, and have to start including Israel in your reviews of Glad you enjoyed the special clubs issue. Your
particularly come to appreciate the knowl- world whiskies. point is well taken! It’s a notable moment when
edge that I’ve gained about whiskies from L’Chaim! you encounter that spellbinding whisky with an
around the world. I’d like to bring to your Matt Harper amazing finish that begs to be quietly savored.
12 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

A publication of M. Shanken Communications, Inc.
825 Eighth Avenue, New York, NY 10019
vol. 29, no. 1
Editor & Publisher Marvin R. Shanken

Executive Editor Jeffery Lindenmuth
Managing Editor Melanie Schwenk
Art Director John Thompson
Vice President, WhiskyFest Events Joan McGinley
Senior Whisky Specialist & Digital Editor Susannah Skiver Barton
Contributing Editor Jonny McCormick
Digital Assistant Editor/Tasting Coordinator Ted Simmons
Assistant Editor Zak Kostro
Assistant Tasting Coordinator/Editorial Assistant Sam Stone
Photo Editor Casey Oto
Imaging Eli Halpern, Lindsay Mitchell
Vice President/Advertising Director Michael P. McGoldrick

Advertising, Cigars and Luxury Barry Abrams
Corporate Advertising Miriam Morgenstern
Cheryl Lewis
Michael DiChiara
Advertising Services Manager Jennifer Arcella
Circulation Director Phylicia Bedoya
Assistant Circulation Manager Tina Ratwani
Senior Retail Sales Director Jeanne Holly
Office Manager Kathy Fox
Copy Editor Sam Komlenic
Vice President, Shanken Creative Group Don Gatterdam

Creative Director, Shanken Creative Group Ken Ferris
Designer, Shanken Creative Group Eleni Stathakos
Mission Statement
To be the most informative and entertaining drinks publication by promoting
the intelligent, responsible, and joyful consumption of the world’s whiskies.
Mailing address
22 S. Second Street, Suite 201, Emmaus, PA 18049
(610) 967-1083
[email protected]
www.whiskyadvocate.com
M. SHANKEN COMMUNICATIONS, INC.

Chairman Marvin R. Shanken
Vice Chairman Michael D. Moaba
Executive Vice President Laura Zandi
Senior Advisor to the Chairman Mel Mannion
Senior Vice President, Advertising Constance McGilvray
Senior Vice President, Events Lynn Rittenband
Chief Financial Officer Steven Gordon
Vice President, Business Development Jessica Shanken
Vice President, Production Kevin Mulligan
Executive Assistant to the Chairman Sheena Dellanzo
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Whisky fans thronged the Times Square Marriott Marquis ballroom last December for WhiskyFest New York and enjoyed access to over 425 whiskies.
EVENT REPORT
WhiskyFest New York Delivers Whisky Bliss

Whisky lovers celebrated a momentous year—and the 2019 Top 20 reveal—
with a night of unforgettable pours BY ZAK KOSTRO
L
egions of whisky fans flooded the Norte, plus a smorgasbord of offerings from whisky luminaries like Suntory chief blender
Marriott Marquis in Times Square pioneering craft distillers, and even some Shinji Fukuyo, who led a seminar celebrating
on December 3, 2019 for Whisky- elusive age-statement Japanese whiskies. the brand’s 30th anniversary with a number of
Fest New York, thirsting for whisky, WhiskyFest New York is “undoubtedly the rare whiskies—including single malts from
knowledge, and kindred spirits. And they biggest event of the year in the whisky Yamazaki and Hakushu Distilleries—that
found all three in abundance thanks to calendar in the U.S.,” said Glenmorangie and each contribute unique flavor characteristics
distillers, blenders, and experts pouring more Ardbeg global brand ambassador David to the final blend of Hibiki Japanese Har-
than 425 whiskies from around the world, Blackmore, who estimates he’s attended mony. Fittingly, the tasting culminated with a
in-depth seminars, and fellow whisky more than a dozen WhiskyFests. “What’s pour of the exquisite Hibiki 30 year old.
enthusiasts who’d flocked from near and far. great is you see a lot of old friends, but every Fukuyo’s seminar—and the entire evening—
Many of the 2019 and past years’ Top 20 year you see a lot of new people as well.” Yet made first-time WhiskyFest attendee Jason
whiskies—including Whisky Advocate’s 2019 it’s the crowd’s curiosity that makes the night Ford glad he bought a ticket. “I’ve been able to
Whisky of the Year, George Dickel 13 year old even richer. “You are meeting people that sample a huge range of [whiskies],” Ford said,
Bottled in Bond—flowed throughout the genuinely care about the brands, the history noting Bruichladdich’s Octomore 10.1 and
night, alongside drams from producers from of [the whisky], how it’s made, why it’s made, 10.3, and Tobermory 21 year old. “And then to
around the globe: single malt scotch titans where it’s made,” said Beam Suntory east hear the chief blender of Suntory talking
DAPHNEE YOUREE
such as Glenmorangie and Laphroaig; coast American whiskey ambassador Tim about all his whiskies is pretty amazing.”
American whiskey heavyweights, including Heuisler between straight-from-the-barrel WhiskyFest returns to New York on
Jim Beam and Jack Daniel’s; and innovative pours of Knob Creek Cask Strength Rye. October 29, 2020 and closes out the year in
distillers from less-heralded whisky regions, Perhaps such enthusiasm shouldn’t come San Francisco on December 4th. Order your
like France’s Brenne and Mexico’s Sierra as a surprise, however, given the presence of tickets today at whiskyfest.com.

Friends savored drams from all around the world. Suntory chief blender Shinji Fukuyo Seminars offered insights—and rare pours.
MIDDLE ROW RIGHT, BOTTOM ROW LEFT: TIM RYAN SMITH; OTHERS THIS PAGE: DAPHNEE YOUREE
Old favorites and new discoveries abounded. Whisky clubs gathered for an extra-special meeting. George Dickel distiller Nicole Austin
Sierra Norte distiller Douglas French Whisky enthusiasts geared up for tasting and education. Couples found whiskies to enjoy together.

DISTILLATIONS
Distillations
LEAD A MORE SPIRITED LIFE
The Land of Pleasant Living

Baltimore is a charming city for whisky lovers 22
Pairing Pickles 32 • Fizzy Cocktails 36
Casinos with Whisky 38 • Whisky Kitchen 43
A flight of rye awaits visitors

on tour at Sagamore Spirit
Distillery in Baltimore.
MARIN
PHOTO CREDIT
SEBASTIAN TK

DISTILLATIONS
48 HOURS
Harboring Charm
Baltimore's whiskey status is on the rise
Inner Harbor
N Day One
o city shares a greater affinity
with rye whiskey than Balti-
more. Locals remained loyal to During your Baltimore stay, consider
Maryland’s Pikesville rye even anchoring yourself at one of the fine
long after the brand moved hotels near Inner Harbor. Four Seasons
to Kentucky’s Heaven Hill Distillery in 1982. and Royal Sonesta put you right on the
The city is also the epicenter for the revival water, while the Hampton Inn and Hotel
of Maryland-style rye, which is distinguished Indigo place you closer to non-harbor
by a significant portion of corn, anywhere attractions Oriole Park and the Walters Old Line Spirits
from 15% to 45% of the mashbill, giving it a Art Museum, respectively.
lighter, sweeter taste. Its reemergence is a Wherever you stay, you’ll want to seek out central business district until midnight on
TOP: EFRAIN PADRO / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

sign of Baltimore’s, and Maryland’s, return to the sense of community and support shared Friday and Saturday, and 8 p.m. otherwise.
the East Coast’s whiskey-making vanguard. among local Baltimoreans and nowhere is Or grab an Uber or Lyft out to the Hampden
Like rye playing second fiddle to bourbon, that more evident than at Union Collective, a neighborhood for The Food Market, which
there is an underdog quality to Baltimore, liv- 155,000-square-foot former Sears warehouse. features a lengthy brunch cocktail menu and
ing in the shadow of Washington, D.C. “We’re Since its opening in 2017 the Collective has rib-sticking fare you can wash down with a
excited to show the world what sort of spirits curated independently owned businesses— pancake shot—whiskey, butterscotch, and or-
Baltimore is creating, and return the city to from a rock climbing gym to an ice cream ange juice chaser. Woodberry Kitchen is also
its rightful place in the pantheon of world shop—to form a massive one-stop attraction. nearby, with a drinks list that features several
booze meccas,” says Max Lents, founder and As far as cities go, Baltimore is relatively locally produced spirits.
CEO of Baltimore Spirits Company. “No other small, so getting around either by car or If you choose to go straight to Union, you
city deserves to be ground zero for world- scooter is fairly inexpensive. The Charm City can grab a hot cup and a pastry at Vent Cof-
class rye whiskey.” Circulator offers free bus rides around the fee Roasters. Union Craft Brewing occupies

Orioles fan at Camden Yards
Baltimore Spirits Company
an event space and cocktail bar where guests

can sip drinks, both classic and creative,
including a rotating barrel-aged cocktail.
Tours and tastings for $5 a person are held on
Saturdays on the hour from noon to 5 p.m.
Monument City Brewing, founded by
brothers Ken and Matthew Praay and named
after one of Baltimore’s many nicknames, is
just a six-minute walk away. The bar’s tap
handles are custom made by nearby wood-
Chesapeake Crab, Wine & Beer Festival working studio Mark Supik and Co., with
events like live music and Ravens watch par-
ties filling up their monthly calendar.
the largest space in the industrial strip, the For dinner, head to Ida B’s Table, a soul
outdoor area filling with clusters of dogs and food restaurant named after investigative
their two-legged companions in the summer- Guinness Open Gate Brewery journalist Ida B. Wells, for fried blue catfish,
time. The taproom has an extensive beer list jambalaya, or smoked fried chicken. Local
as well as the fully operational Well Crafted a mile away from Union Collective, easily musicians play Friday and Saturday nights
Kitchen. walkable, and well worth the trek. Plus, it’s year-round. The cocktail menu takes inspira-
Now you’re ready for whiskey. Head next dog-friendly and open until 2 a.m. seven tion from famous African-American authors
door to Baltimore Spirits Company, a ware- nights a week. The expansive selection of and incorporates local spirits throughout.
house-style distillery offering free tastings of American whiskey includes multiple bar Epoch rye, vanilla liqueur, jasmine tea, and
any four of their spirits. Their Epoch straight picks of Four Roses single barrel ($12 each), a cassis compose the Caged Bird Sings by Maya
rye was the first to be distilled in the city Buffalo Trace single barrel ($7), and a slew of Angelou, while a caraway rye from Tenth
TOP LEFT: DAN KUBUS / BALTIMORE ORIOLES
proper in at least half a century and is released other reasonably priced drams, some starting Ward Distilling Company in nearby Freder-
in batches throughout the year, only at the at just $5. The barbecue includes a brisket ick is mixed with Catoctin Creek rye (from
distillery. Other spirits on offer include gins, rubbed with local favorite Zeke’s Coffee, neighboring Virginia), Chapman’s apple
apple brandy, a trio of amari, and more. The and bourbon-glazed St. Louis pork ribs. Since brandy (made in D.C.), and Don Ciccio & Figli
tasting room is open Wednesday to Saturday you’re in the northern part of the city, hit up finochietto for the Home by Toni Morrison.
from noon to 8 p.m., and Sunday from noon to The Wine Source, about a five-minute drive Finish your night with drinks near the
6 p.m. Free tours are available every hour on away, touted for its overall selection of spirits, harbor, where a number of bars offer plenty
Saturdays from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., with a cocktail wine, and beer and knowledgeable staff. of great whisky, like Barfly’s list of more than
program on the horizon. “To our mind, we’re Fueled up on barbecue, grab a rideshare to 400. The Elk Room puts a modern spin on the
creating the spirit that Baltimore deserves and Old Line Spirits, where two Navy vets are speakeasy concept with a scannable cocktail
one it can be proud of,” Lents says. making American single malt and sourcing soundtrack. And the plainly named Rye—its
Blue Pit BBQ & Whiskey Bar is less than Caribbean rum. The Ready Room doubles as neon sign a beacon for whiskey-seeking night

owls—delivers, with multiple rye cocktails,
Monument City’s Rye IPA on tap, and Roots
Radicals, a Boilermaker that pairs rye whiskey
with Cardamaro and Belgian ale.
Day Two
Begin your second day by fueling up at Blue
Moon Café, known for serving a hearty
breakfast with a rock and roll attitude, or
HandleBar Café, a bike shop and eatery
where you and your wheels can get a fix.
Feeling revived, it’s time to pay a visit to
Sagamore Spirit, the biggest kid on the
The Elk Room Baltimore distilling block, with a shiny new
distillery that opened in the Port Covington
neighborhood in 2017. “Our mission is to
inspire a global passion for Maryland rye
whiskey, and we built our Baltimore distillery
to do just that,” President Brian Treacy says.
Tour the 22,000-square-foot facility Sunday
through Tuesday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. or Wednes-
day to Saturday 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. for $15 and
taste the range of rye whiskeys on offer, from
Signature and Cask Strength to one of the
cask-finished products. The brand started
sourcing rye exclusively from Indiana’s MGP
in 2012, barreling its own distillate upon
opening the distillery in early 2017. Sagamore
is waiting for its stocks to age at least 4 years
before blending into the four core products.
You won’t have to go far for lunch, as the
Sagamore property has its own restaurant,
Rye Street Tavern, opposite the stillhouse
and adjacent to the visitor center. The menu
Sagamore Pendry Baltimore Hotel skews Southern (gumbo, fried chicken, shrimp
and grits), with all cocktails priced at $15.
If that’s not enough, Sagamore owner and
Under Armour founder Kevin Plank, a Mary-
land native, intends to further develop the
Port Covington area with new offices, homes,
stores, restaurants, and parks on 160 acres of
Sagamore-owned property, targeting comple-
tion of the first phase by 2022.
BOTTOM: COURTESY OF THE BALTIMORE ORIOLES

The sports-minded may opt instead to
grab a Stuggy’s hot dog at Camden Yards,
home to the Baltimore Orioles. Sunday
home games start at 1:05 p.m., so best to
grab your tickets the day before. Take a
break from whiskey and pop open the local
favorite National Bohemian beer, aka “Natty
Boh.” While 90% of National Bohemian
sales are in Baltimore, it is brewed under
contract at MillerCoors facilities elsewhere
in the country (the brand was purchased by
Pabst in 2010). Those looking for the full-
scale brewery experience will have to travel
Camden Yards about 25 minutes to Halethorpe, where the

Rye Street Tavern Rye
Guinness Open Gate Brewery offers tours, Distilleries/Breweries

a taproom, restaurant, beer garden, store, Baltimore Spirits Company 1700 W. 41st St.,
and food truck. Suite 430; baltimorespiritsco.com
If you need a break from the libations, Guinness Open Gate Brewery
pay a visit to one of Baltimore’s impressive 5001 Washington Blvd., Halethorpe;
non-sporting attractions like the National guinnessbrewerybaltimore.com
Aquarium, B&O Railroad Museum, or Monument City Brewing Company 1 North
Fort McHenry National Monument and Haven St.; monumentcitybrewing.com
Historic Shrine. Old Line Spirits 4201 E. Pratt St.;
You have one mission for the remainder oldlinespirits.com
of your stay in Baltimore, and that’s to eat Sagamore Spirit Distillery 301 E. Cromwell
a table full of crabs. “Eating crabs is more a St.; sagamorespirit.com
social event than a meal,” Andy Garner, gen- Union Craft Brewing 1700 W. 41st St., Suite
eral manager and co-owner at L.P. Steamers 420; unioncraftbrewing.com
says. Garner recommends going big on the Bars and Restaurants
sides and not hesitating to ask your server for
Barfly’s 620 E. Fort Ave.; barflysbaltimore.com
some pointers. “Remember, the mallet—don’t
call it a hammer—is only for the claws; don’t Blue Moon Café 1621 Aliceanna St.;
bluemoonbaltimore.com
eat the lungs, and don’t wear white.” He says
the best time for Maryland crabs is in the Blue Pit BBQ 1601 Union Ave.; bluepitbbq.com Sagamore Spirit Distillery
fall, but restaurants like his will serve crabs Bygone 400 International Dr., 29th Floor;
year-round. Those looking for more harbor- thebygonerestaurant.com Hotels
centric options should consider Rusty Scup- The Cannon Room 1715 Thames St.; Four Seasons 200 International Dr.;
per or McCormick & Schmick’s where the pendry.com/baltimore fourseasons.com/baltimore
menu extends beyond sea fare. Or better yet, The Elk Room 1010 Fleet St.; theelkroom.com Hotel Indigo Baltimore Downtown
time your trip with the annual Chesapeake The Food Market 1017 W. 36th St.; 24 W. Franklin St.; baltimoreindigohotel.com
Crab, Wine & Beer Festival, held this year thefoodmarketbaltimore.com Hampton Inn Baltimore-Downtown
on June 20th. HandleBar Café 511 S. Caroline St.; 550 Washington Blvd.; hilton.com
Close out your second day by returning handlebarcafe.com Royal Sonesta Harbor Court 550 Light St.;
to another Sagamore property, this time sonesta.com
Ida B’s Table 235 Holliday St.; idabstable.com
the Sagamore Pendry Baltimore Hotel, Sagamore Pendry Baltimore 1715 Thames St.;
L.P. Steamers 1100 E. Fort Ave.;
where you’ll find a number of rare drams at pendry.com/baltimore
locustpointsteamers.com
The Cannon Room. The ample American
McCormick & Schmick’s 711 Eastern Ave.; Attractions
whiskey list includes Buffalo Trace Antique
mccormickandschmicks.com B&O Railroad Museum 901 W. Pratt St.;
Collection releases, Van Winkle selections,
TOP RIGHT: GLENN MILLER
Rusty Scupper 402 Key Hwy.; borail.org

Booker’s 30th Anniversary, and more. Seating
is limited, but you can take your drink to the rusty-scupper.com Camden Yards 333 W. Camden St.; mlb.com
indoor-outdoor atrium or outside where a Rye 1629 Thames St.; ryebaltimore.com Chesapeake Crab, Wine & Beer Festival
poolside bar overlooks the harbor. If there’s Rye Street Tavern 13 Rye St.; 1310 Point St.; mdcrabfest.com
crab in your belly and rye in your glass, you ryestreettavern.com Fort McHenry National Monument and
will feel content with your Charm City stay. Woodberry Kitchen 2010 Clipper Park Rd.; Historic Shrine 2400 E. Fort Ave.; nps.gov
—Ted Simmons woodberrykitchen.com National Aquarium 501 E. Pratt St.; aqua.com

DISTILLATIONS
TASTING LESSON
Fresh Baked
Tasting Lesson is a drink hack to help sponsible for the complex aromas and flavors and toasty notes. Malty notes from maltol, 2–
you better identify common whisky of baked goods that often span sweetness, and 3–methyl butanal and other compounds,
flavors and their origins cereal notes, toast, and spices. buttery or butterscotch flavors from diacetyl,
As with bread, the cereal variety weighs vanilla notes from vanillin, and coconut fla-
W hisky is often redolent of the

warm scents of a neighborhood
bakery. Whether it’s notes of
baking cookies, buttery pastry, sweet sticky
buns, or a toasty baguette, these heady
heavily on our impression of baked goods:
wheat whiskeys and bourbons with wheat
may display a soft, bready character in
contrast to the bold and spicy notes of rye. If
higher kilning temperatures are used, cere-
vors from oak lactones all contribute further
in directing our specific impression of baked
goods, from coconut macaroon to tarte Tatin.
Wood extractives are modified by further
chemical reactions during maturation; the
aromas can transport us back to childhood als can offer more toasted and burnt bready aromatic aldehyde coniferaldehyde, derived
memories of tasty treats. The way whisky notes as well as chocolate nuances. from the lignin in the oak, smells of graham
can evoke aromas and flavors of fresh-baked Beyond grain, oak staves, especially those crackers and the crust of freshly baked bread.
goodies is understandable given that whisky of used bourbon casks employed by distillers Furfural yields an almond-like or marzipan
is also made from grains and fermented with worldwide, contribute to the impression of flavor that reminds some of cake mix. Finally,
yeast. However, no single compound is re- baked delights, lending vanilla, burnt sugar, cask staves can also produce spicy notes of
ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove that we
strongly associate with holiday baked goods.
As you relive your baking memories, con-
sider whether you are observing simple fresh
TOAST BREAD PASTRY
bread, a sticky caramelized bun, or a specific
Chicken Cock Strathcolm The Kinahan’s Small
Double Barrel Extra Special Batch Danish dressed with baked fruits, or sim-
10 year old Toasted crumpets, Apple Danish, vanilla ply box-mix birthday cake. You might even
TOP: JEFF HARRIS
Cinnamon bread, silky texture, vanilla extract, cocoa reminisce about licking a spoon thick with
toasted oak, rich sweetness cake or cookie batter; satisfying and comfort-
chocolate
ing tasting experiences that leave you hungry
for more.
BREAD WINNERS: Delicious whiskies that smell fresh from the oven —Jonny McCormick

DISTILLATIONS
FRIENDS
W HI S KY + A BS I N THE
Beyond the
Sazerac
A
bsinthe is known to whiskey drinkers
for the distinctive anise flavor it lends
to a classic Sazerac cocktail, which
blends the botanical green spirit with rye
whiskey, Peychaud’s bitters, and sugar. “It’s
not really meant to make a big, complicated
cocktail as much as it is just dressing up that
little bit of whiskey in the glass,” says Brent
Rosen, president of the Museum of the Ameri-
can Cocktail in New Orleans. Like a flower on
a lapel, a little absinthe adds a lot of flair.
Traditionally made from wormwood—a
plant that contains the mind-altering sub-
stance thujone—absinthe gained a notably
naughty reputation; it was (largely spuriously)
blamed for a litany of social ills, and banned
in the U.S. and much of Europe by the early
1900s. Sazerac drinkers made do with Herb-
saint, a legal anise-flavored liqueur. And, even
with absinthe legalized in the U.S. since 2007,
Herbsaint remains a popular substitute.
Rye isn’t the only whiskey that stands up
well to absinthe’s potent flavor, however.
“Bourbon, with its sweetness, its kind of cara-
mel flavor, can take some herbal notes, which
you get from the anise,” says Erik Adkins, bar
director at San Francisco’s Hard Water. And
while absinthe is a powerful spirit on its own,
it adds a lovely accent when used sparingly in A little absinthe adds a lot of
a whiskey cocktail. "It seems to just open up flair to whiskey cocktails like
flavors," says Joe Tangney, bartender at Bayou the Cocktail à la Louisiane.
Bar in New Orleans. —Zak Kostro
Sazerac 1 1⁄2 oz. rye 1⁄4oz. 1 sugar 3 dashes lemon peel Muddle sugar and bitters. Add rye,
whiskey absinthe cube Peychaud’s for garnish stir with ice. Strain into chilled Old-
or bitters Fashioned glass rinsed with absinthe
Herbsaint or Herbsaint. Garnish with expressed
JEFF HARRIS / DRINK STYLING: TYNA HOANG
lemon twist.
Billionaire 2 oz. 1⁄4

oz. 1 oz. fresh 1⁄2
oz. 1⁄2
oz. lemon wheel Shake all ingredients with ice. Strain
Employees Only, high-proof absinthe lemon simple grenadine for garnish into chilled coupe and garnish with
New York City
bourbon juice syrup lemon wheel.
Cocktail à la 3⁄4 oz. rye 3 dashes 3⁄4oz. 3⁄4

oz. 3 dashes maraschino Stir all ingredients with ice. Strain
Louisiane whiskey absinthe sweet Benedictine Peychaud’s cherry for into chilled coupe. Garnish with
Adapted from Stanley vermouth bitters
Clisby Arthur’s 1937 recipe garnish maraschino cherry.
Improved 2 oz. 1 dash 1 sugar 1 barspoon 2 dashes lemon twist Muddle sugar, maraschino, bitters, and
Whiskey Cocktail bourbon absinthe cube maraschino Angostura for garnish absinthe. Add whiskey, stir with ice.
Adapted from Jerry or rye liqueur bitters Garnish with expressed lemon twist.
Thomas’s Bar-Tender’s Guide

DISTILLATIONS
WHISKY WITH...
Arguably, a good fermented
dill offers the greatest flavor
complexity among pickles. On the
pairing front, any number of modern
American single malt whiskeys prove an
excellent partner for this traditional pickle,
brawnier than their Scottish counterparts
and often with a woody reticence that suits
them more to sour flavors than their bourbon
Another or Tennessee brethren.

For vinegar pickles, especially the garlicky
variety sometimes identified as Polski Ogorki,
Fine Pickle a peaty Scottish malt will embrace the pickle’s

flavor without defanging its bite. In fact, the
lingering smokiness the whisky leaves on the
I f Peter Piper really did pick a peck of

pickled peppers, what sort of whisky do
you think he chose to drink with them?
The question is not entirely fanciful, par-
ticularly if Peter lives in the U.S., since it is es-
palate can enhance the pickle’s more subtle
flavors and add new dimensions to the taste.
Of course, the pairing of pickles with whis-
keys comes as no surprise to fans of the booze-
and-brine combination known as the Pickle-
timated that in 2019 the per capita consump- back. While Irish whiskeys usually form one
tion of pickles was around nine pounds. half of this combo, the dill pickles that supply
Granted, most of these pickles are made the brine leave room for improvement. Sweet
from cucumbers rather than peppers, bread and butter pickles prove a superior
with roughly 100,000 to 125,000 acres companion, as the generally sweet whiskey
devoted to growing pickling cucumbers character of blended Irish whiskey meets
in 30 states, led by Michigan and North and measures the equal or greater sweetness
Carolina. The relatively mild flavor of of the pickles, particularly so when they are
these cucumbers makes them the per- partnered with cheddar cheese in a sandwich.
fect blank canvas for several pickling And finally, for Mr. Piper’s proverbial peck
procedures. of pickled peppers, specifically the spicy sort
According to Linda Ziedrich, like Italian peperoncini and banana-pepper
author of three editions of The Joy of rings, get your hands on the biggest, spiciest
Pickling, the principal separation in pick- straight rye that you can find, using the sa-
les concerns preparation, specifically whether vory spice of the whiskey to meet and match
they are fermented or pickled in vinegar. the heat of the peppers. A beef on weck, as
“Vinegar pickles are sometimes called ‘quick usually Lactobacillus, Ziedrich continues. they call it in Buffalo—roast beef on a salted,
pickles’ and come to us mainly from British Unlike shelf-stable vinegar dills, fermented caraway-seasoned roll—can be favorably, if
and German traditions,” she explains, “Fer- pickles are most often found refrigerated and irreverently, topped with a few forkfuls of
mented pickles, on the other hand, come from have been identified as having health benefits hot pepper rings and paired deliciously with
eastern Europe, largely via New York delis.” similar to probiotics. If you want to be certain a solid rye whiskey such as McKenzie rye
Sometimes called sour or kosher dills, you have a fermented pickle, shake up the from nearby Finger Lakes Distilling, or the
these pickles ferment in water, salt, and spice brine, Ziedrich says. If it turns cloudy, the more commonly available Sazerac rye.
with a naturally derived fermenting agent, pickle is fermented. —Stephen Beaumont
PICKLES: JEFF HARRIS
Bread and Butter Pickles with Sour (Fermented) Dills with Garlic Dills with Bowmore
Jameson Black Barrel Stranahan’s Diamond Peak 12 year old
The “twice charred” vanilla-y The contrast of dry, oaky malt and The naturally briny nature of the
sweetness and body complement sour fermented flavors proves a Islay whisky combines superbly
the sweetness of the pickle while stellar marriage, one made even with the pickle, and the garlic and
also taming whatever sugary over- better with a cube or two of ice. smoke provide further compatible
load it may offer. complexity.

DISTILLATIONS
SPIRIT GUIDE
Rum for Whisky Drinkers Fine Rum

Comes of Age
R um and whisky are born of different
parents—whisky from grains, rum
from sugar cane. But then comes the
upbringing, when these two often find them-
selves in the same classroom with the same
few boundaries. Scotch, bourbon, Canadian,
and Irish whiskey are by international trade
agreements all produced within a single na-
tion, each with its own regulations regarding
distillation, aging, and materials. Rum, how-
IF YOU LIKE Craft whiskey
TRY Hampden Estate 46% • $55
The fruity funk of white rums from this fabled
Jamaican distillery is tamed by the barrel. On
the heels of a broad, earthy minerality comes a
teacher. They begin to talk like one another. ever, is produced in dozens of countries—in rounded, chalky finish.
Those classrooms are, of course, white oak fact, pretty much everywhere sugar cane is
IF YOU LIKE Peated scotch
barrels, which impart their own distinctive fla- grown—and while each country has its own TRYLa Maison & Velier Caroni 2000
regulations and traditions when it comes to
vor to any spirit over time. It’s this barrel aging 55% • $215
that can transform a clear Caribbean cocktail the production of rum, many offer the pro- These prized barrels sourced from a
ducer considerable latitude. defunct Trinidad distillery are full of
As a result, the taste pro- smoked vanilla up front, followed by
files of rum can vary widely. dense but fleeting notes of molas-
As the lines tend to be geo- ses and peat-like phenols.
graphic and a bit blurry, rum IF YOU LIKE Spicy rye whiskey
is full of delightful surprises TRY Panamá-Pacific 9 year old
at every turn. For instance, 47.3% • $30
rum made from fresh sugar This Panamanian rum serves up
cane on column stills in a broad sweetness on entry that
Martinique has a bright, swiftly gives way to a spicy blend of black
fresh-cut-grass flavor while pepper, ginger, and a touch of prune.
rum made from molasses in IF YOU LIKE Barrel-proof bourbon
pot stills in Jamaica can taste TRY Plantation O.F.T.D. 69% • $32
of ripe pineapple and green Bottled at a stout 69% ABV, this full-flavored
banana. While a long frater- blend of rums from three Caribbean distilleries
nization with oak will narrow is rife with notes of ripe banana and pineapple,
those variations, unmistak- but grounded by a brown sugar-edged
able differences persist. smokiness.
Privateer Rum's president and head distiller Maggie Campbell Taking a page from the IF YOU LIKE Island scotch
whisky maker’s textbook, TRYPrivateer Navy Yard Barrel
mixer into a rum deserving of slow sipping rum producers are offering more single cask Proof 57% • $48
and contemplation. and cask-strength bottlings, as distillers Distilled next to a Massachusetts
The longer rum and whisky are aged, the divert top-quality products that might earlier salt marsh, expect a touch of brine
more their tastes converge. After 3 years they have been used for blending. Among these mingling with bittersweet choco-
may start to share a similar flavor profile, are Hampden Estate rums from Jamaica, late, burnt toast, tobacco, and tar.
with tannins and vanilla and caramel notes which had previously sold its stock to a IF YOU LIKE Well-aged bourbon
taking the lead over their respective raw European wholesaler for aging and blend- TRY Real McCoy 12 year old
materials. After 5 or 6 years, they’re all but ing. The distillery entered a partnership with 40% • $55
finishing each other’s sentences. This process La Maison & Velier (a joint venture of La Expect this Barbados rum to
of convergence is accelerated by the fact Maison du Whisky in France and Velier in deliver a deep, multidimensional
that rums are typically aged in barrels that Italy) to barrel-age in Jamaica and sell their entry full of praline, dried apricot
formerly held bourbon, imbuing them with robust-edging-into-funky rums. and black cherry, with a long finish
LEFT: MICHAEL G. PRINCE
an initial burst of borrowed flavor. All this is good news for the whisky rich with vanilla and cigar.
All of this is to say that if you’ve walked drinker looking to expand their repertoire IF YOU LIKE Irish blended whiskey
briskly through your liquor store’s rum aisles of well-aged spirits. Because no matter your TRY Santa Teresa 1796 40% • $45
en route to the whisky, you might want to preference in whisky, there’s a reasonably This Venezuelan rum is like a cocktail, with a
slow your step and scope out a few bottles. good chance you’ll find an aged rum to match creamy texture on entry, followed by mocha
When exploring rum, it’s good to remem- your palate. and root beer, and capped with a strikingly
ber that this is a spirit category that knows —Wayne Curtis dry finish.

The Gilded Ape
Created by Leanne Favre, head bartender at
Brut champagne Leyenda, Brooklyn, New York
brings depth and “Oloroso sherry highlights the nuttiness of
fizz to The Gilded
the American single malt while the crème
Ape cocktail.
de banana builds upon the sweet baking
spice notes contributed from the barrel,”
says Favre. “A topping of champagne elon-
gates the flavors and contributes a beautiful
effervescence, allowing each layer of flavor
to shine.”
¼ oz. Talisker 10 year old (or other peated
Islay scotch)
1 oz. Westward American single malt (or an
unpeated Highland Scotch or Japanese
whisky)
Brut Force
¾ oz. Giffard crème de banane
½ oz. Lustau oloroso sherry
½ oz. lemon juice
½ oz. rich demerara syrup (recipe below)
3 oz. brut champagne
The fizz of champagne makes whisky Lemon twist for garnish
flavors pop in these decadent drinks Rinse a stemmed red wine glass with
Talisker. Add all other ingredients, except
champagne, to a shaker, add ice, and shake.
Pour into the rinsed glass and top with cham-
pagne. Garnish with lemon twist.
Rich Demerara Syrup
C
1 cup demerara sugar
hampagne features in some of the finest classic cocktails, like the French 75 and
½ cup water
the eponymous Champagne Cocktail. Whisky, however, has rarely been part of
such spirited liaisons. Modern bartenders have discovered that the bright acidity Combine sugar and water in a saucepan.
of champagne plays well with whiskies, and “the yeast build in the champagne bal- Place over medium heat and whisk constant-
ances the sweetness found in whisky,” explains bar consultant and educator Tiffanie Barriere, ly until sugar is dissolved. Let syrup cool and
aka The Drinking Coach. So, uncork some bubbles and add effervescence to your whisky. transfer into a bottle. Store refrigerated for
up to six weeks.
Irish Rover
Created by Adam Robinson, owner of Dead-
Royal St. Rye Cocktail
Combine the first six ingredients in a shaker.
shot, Portland, Oregon Add ice and shake until cold. Add champagne Created by Lu Brow, head bartender at Bren-
“The floral notes of the chamomile syrup to the shaker, then strain into an ice-filled nan’s, New Orleans, Louisiana
complement the robust Irish whiskey, while double Old-Fashioned glass. Spritz the “This beautiful cocktail is approachable
the bright acidity of the sparkling wine along surface with peated scotch and garnish with because it’s not overly strong or sweet,” says
with the lemon juice makes for a very well- lemon slice. Brow, who recommends serving it as an
balanced cocktail,” Robinson says. aperitif.
JEFF HARRIS / DRINK STYLING: TYNA HOANG

Chamomile Syrup
1 oz. Sazerac rye (or other rye)
1 ½ oz. Tullamore D.E.W. Irish whiskey (or 2 cups water
¾ oz. Dolin sweet vermouth
other blended Irish whiskey) 1/4 cup dried chamomile flowers
½ oz. fresh lemon juice
½ oz. Lustau Capataz Andres cream sherry (amazon.com)
½ oz. pomegranate grenadine (recipe below)
(or other cream sherry) 2 cups sugar
¾ oz. lemon juice
Lemon twist for garnish
½ oz. chamomile syrup (recipe below) Bring water to a boil. Add chamomile flowers,
1 barspoon honey turn heat to low, and simmer for 2 minutes. Combine all ingredients except champagne
2 dashes aromatic bitters Remove from heat and let sit for 20 minutes. in a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake until
1 ½ oz. brut champagne Strain through cheesecloth. Stir in sugar until chilled. Strain into a coupe. Top with cham-
Lemon slice and a spritz of Laphroaig 10 year dissolved. Store refrigerated for up to two pagne and twist a lemon peel over the top
old (or other peated scotch) for garnish weeks in a sealed glass bottle. and drop into the cocktail.

Pomegranate Grenadine The subtleness of
¼ cup water the Royal St. Rye
2 cups pomegranate juice Cocktail makes it
2 cups granulated sugar an ideal aperitif.
1 large piece of orange zest
Combine water and pomegranate juice in
a saucepan over medium heat until warm.
Slowly whisk in granulated sugar until com-
pletely dissolved. Add orange zest and remove
from heat. Once cool, strain into a glass bottle.
Keep refrigerated for up to two weeks.
April Showers
Created by bar consultant and educator Tif-
fanie Barriere, aka The Drinking Coach
A play on the Seelbach cocktail, with cham-
pagne acting to balance sweet vanilla syrup.
“The bourbon adds the right amount of spice,
while the vanilla curves well through the dry-
ness of the brut,” Barriere says.
1 ½ oz. Maker’s Mark (or other wheated
bourbon)
½ oz. butterfly pea-infused vanilla syrup
(recipe below)
¼ oz. oloroso sherry
4 dashes Angostura bitters
Baby’s breath for garnish (optional)
Combine first four ingredients in a shaker.
Add ice and shake until cold. Strain into a
coupe and top with champagne. Garnish with
baby’s breath.
Butterfly Pea-Infused Vanilla Syrup
1 cup water
½ cup sugar
3-4 butterfly pea buds (amazon.com)
1 vanilla bean, halved
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and
bring to a low simmer. Once the liquid turns
purplish-blue in color, remove from heat and
JEFF HARRIS / DRINK STYLING: TYNA HOANG; CORK: ISTOCK
let cool. Store in a glass container and keep

refrigerated up to two weeks.
Pop a Couple of These 91 Lanson Brut 91 Moët & 90 Pol Roger 90 Pommery 90 Veuve
Champagne Chandon Brut Brut Champagne Brut Champagne Clicquot Brut
Kicking off, or finishing, a bottle of champagne
Black Label NV Champagne Réserve NV Royal NV Champagne NV
by mixing a cocktail can add a tasty twist to
$45 Impérial NV $50 $45 $49
the experience. While we don’t suggest mixing
Bright, accessible $40 Flavors of Fresh accents of Fresh and lightly
the finest vintage champagne or tête de cuvée
version, with Grilled nut nectarine, pink spring blossom toasty, with
in a cocktail, these solid-scoring and afford-
well-cut citrus meets flavors of grapefruit pith, and chalk; ripe red- snappy acidity;
able non-vintage selec-
acidity; flavors Asian pear and oyster shell, and currant and pine- flavors of white
tions, as reviewed by Wine
of grainy green preserved lemon; ground ginger apple fruit; framed cherry, pickled
Spectator senior editor
pear and ripe creamy, driven by ride a creamy by racy acidity and ginger, and Mar-
Alison Napjus, make good
raspberry. refreshing acidity. mousse. zesty mousse. cona almond.
candidates.

DISTILLATIONS
BARS
Rising Sun ($40, for Toki, Hibiki Harmony,
and Yamazaki 12 year old) and Round of 18
($99, for three 18 year old whiskies includ-
ing Glenmorangie, Macallan Triple Cask,
and Bowmore Manzanilla Cask The Vintners
Trilogy). The menu includes Puck’s signature
dishes alongside specialty whisky cocktails,
like Good Ol’ Wolf (house-infused “brown
butter” Knob Creek, pear nectar, spiced burnt
orange syrup) and Hipster’s Paradise (Book-
er’s, Sandeman Don Fino sherry, Cointreau,
chocolate bitters). theborgata.com
Rare Steakhouse
Encore Boston Harbor, Mass.
Opened in June 2019, this steakhouse flaunts
Whiskey Down offers a a high-end whisky list of about five-dozen
great selection of whiskies labels, including several Pappy Van Winkles,
in a relaxed atmosphere. Macallans, Highland Parks, and Japanese
whiskies including
Yamazaki, Hibiki, and
Nikka Taketsuru. There’s a
Sure Bets special emphasis on Whis-

tlePig rye, featuring the
10, 12, and 15 year olds, the
O nce upon a time you had to go to

Las Vegas or Atlantic City to visit
a casino. Now there are more than
750 across 41 states, according to the 2019
American Casino Guide. With such a long list
annual Boss Hog special
edition, and a bespoke 12
year old blend exclusive
to Encore Boston, triple-
barrel-aged in madeira,
vying for your cash, there’s no need to gamble sauternes, and port casks.
on finding a suitable whisky—many casinos This fuels Rare’s signature
now offer selections for everyone from the Manhattan, along with
penny-slot player to the high roller. Carpano Antica vermouth,
bitters, and orange peel.
Whiskey Down encorebostonharbor.com
MGM Grand, Las Vegas
The biggest hotel in Sin City has an oversized world, including private-barrel selections, Delmonico Steakhouse
whisky program to match and, like the casino, are offered as two-ounce pours, with square The Venetian Resort, Las Vegas
it’s open 24/7. Whiskey Down’s offerings in- two-inch ‘king’ ice cubes for rocks fans. But With well over 600 whiskies from around
clude an MGM-selected single-barrel Kavalan the most inspired match-up here is the signa- the world, including over 300 scotches,
Sherry Cask and private casks from indepen- ture State Street Manhattan ($17), featuring 200-plus Americans, and ten selections of
dent bottlers like Gordon & MacPhail—cur- Woodford Reserve and Carpano Antica sweet Kavalan alone, Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico
rently a 1997 Macallan bottled for the bar vermouth infused with Toschi Amarena Steakhouse's whisky list is aptly known as the
at 92 proof instead of 86, the only one of its cherries and fresh orange peels, finished with “Whisky Book.” The tome includes an anno-
kind. It has a rotating selection of other rare a spritz of Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Select and tated map of scotch distilleries, many repre-
Macallans, which recently included a 1946, garnished with a slice of USDA Prime New sented by multiple expressions and private
plus whiskies from all over the world at every York strip steak. mortons.com cask bottlings, like Duncan Taylor Ladyburn
price point, about 300 in all. mgmresorts.com Rarest of the Rare 34 year old vintage 1973
Wolfgang Puck American Grille ($155) or Gordon & MacPhail Glen Grant 50
Morton’s The Steakhouse Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa, year old distilled in 1958 ($145). Scotches in
Golden Nugget Casino, Atlantic City, N.J. excess of 30 years old abound, while bourbon
JACOB KEPLER
Biloxi, Miss. Puck’s Atlantic City outpost celebrates whisky fans can select from Pappy Van Winkle 23 year
Even for this high-end prime steakhouse with nearly 60 scotch, Irish, Canadian, Ameri- old, a single-barrel bottled in bond E.H. Tay-
chain its beachfront location goes above and can, and Japanese bottlings. Themed flights lor, Jr. , and single-barrel W.L. Weller.
beyond. About 75 whiskies from around the of three one-ounce pours include Land of the emerilsrestaurants.com —Larry Olmsted

DISTILLATIONS
ICON
Sharing a Dram With the Drama King

The WWE personality enters the whisky world from the top rope
I
n liquor and in life, Matt Rehwoldt via his YouTube channel Barrel and a can of Diet
is all about balance. and social media accounts I C O N I N S I D E R Coke, sipping then chasing.
“To me, balance is key to just that combine his passions, “And I would do that every
WHO Matt Rehwoldt,
everything you do, whether it’s aptly titled Wrestling With other night,” he says. “Until
aka WWE’s Aiden English
fitness, whether it’s work,” he says, Whiskey. I didn’t need the chaser.
sipping a glass of bourbon at The “I thought the only reason INSTAGRAM HANDLES Then, eventually, I was sip-
@WrestlingWithWhiskey;
Shanty, New York Distilling Co.’s adjoining I would ever have any suc- ping whisky neat and then
@DramaKingWWE
cocktail bar. “I try to be balanced in everything cess was because of the I started trying different
I can because I think that’s where peace lies wrestling stuff,” he says. But FAVORITE STYLES things.”
Bourbon and rye
and understanding lies. While passion might in the two-plus years since From there, Rehwoldt be-
lie in the extremes, so does trouble.” starting Wrestling With HOME BAR FIXTURES gan honing his tasting skills,
For a guy with multiple pursuits, and Whiskey, Rehwoldt has seen Knob Creek Single Barrel, reading whisky books, and
Evan Williams Bottled in
personas, it’s an appropriate mantra. World his knowledge and fan base studying maturation and dis-
Bond, Eagle Rare
Wrestling Entertainment (WWE) fans know expand. “It’s the first thing tillation. About six to eight
Rehwoldt better as Aiden English, aka The I’ve been truly interested in SLEEPER SHOPPING CITIES months later, he launched
Sioux Falls, S.D.; Hartford
Drama King, antagonistic wrestler turned actively pursuing outside Wrestling With Whiskey in
Conn.
sharp-dressed announcer. The whisky world of wrestling since I was 18. 2017. “I’m so used to trying
is getting to know the bearded Chicagoan It’s fun to have something I HOW HE DRINKS “There to have a social media brand
are some things that benefit
actually want to delve into and presence, I was like,
from water, but I don’t care if
and do homework on.” ‘Well if I’m really getting
Matt Rehwoldt's alter ego: it’s 150 proof. I want to know
And part of the work for what it’s like as it is.”
into this hobby, let’s delve
WWE wrestler and announcer
Aiden English, The Drama King. Rehwoldt is maintaining into it in that platform as
balance. Whisky tasting nev- well,’” he says.
er gets in the way of his WWE duties, which Rehwoldt has been ramping up his whisky
often require traveling to arena shows across activity ever since, especially with his transi-
the country (he has a special foam-lined tion to color commentary for WWE’s cruiser-
THIS PAGE: ©2019 WWE, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED; OPPOSITE: DAVID YELLEN
Pelican case for taking his tasting to-go). Nor weight show “205 Live” in 2019 lessening his
does it deter his commitment to the fitness time on the road. “I’m home a bit more often
required for the extreme physical demands of so now I can do Wrestling With Whiskey
professional wrestling. He frequently advises with a little bit more regularity and a little bit
his followers with the catchphrase “Earn more attention,” he says. That has included
Your Bourbon,” encouraging others with a move to subscription content platform
instructional workout videos. Patreon, the creation of Earn Your Bourbon
“I never imagined incorporating fitness merchandise, and live events in Chicago.
into my bourbon hobby, but I actually am As Rehwoldt’s online work becomes more
kind of proud of it,” he says. “One of the main robust, it’s clear he loves sharing the joy of
reasons I started it was to promote the idea whiskey with his viewers, and even his fellow
of responsible appreciation and enjoyment, WWE stars (“Sheamus, he loves Irish whis-
because drinking is not just about drinking. key,” he says of Stephen Farrelly).
It’s about enjoying.” Much like learning and practicing a new
It’s clear that Rehwoldt enjoys whisky, in-ring maneuver, Rehwoldt is pushing him-
primarily bourbon and rye, and discussing it, self and his repertoire of spirits outside the
though that wasn’t always the case. While his ring. “As much as I love bourbon and Ameri-
dad was a scotch drinker, it wasn’t until seeing can whiskey and I think that will always be
characters on “Mad Men” sip whisky neat my heart, I want to be a well-rounded spirits
that he thought about developing a taste for it. persona.” As always, it comes back to balance.
He started with a bottle of Knob Creek Single —Ted Simmons

PHOTO CREDIT TK
Matt Rehwoldt paid a visit to

Brooklyn's New York Distilling
Co. during a recent stop in
New York City.
41
DISTILLATIONS
GEAR
Kitchen Makeover
Dream appliances designed for the whisky lover
U nless you have a license, it's illegal to make whisky in

your kitchen. But you may want to prepare as the Hobby
Distiller's Association lobbies for legal home distilling. In
the meantime, trick out your kitchen with these other whisky-
friendly appliances, or put the PicoStill to use making hop oils.
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Stash your favorite house
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and access up to five whis-
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This refrigerator creates
slow melting ice spheres
without the need for molds.
It produces two to three
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right. lg.com
Crafthouse by Fortessa
Smoking Box $250
Wow your guests by add-
ing savory notes of burning
wood, herbs, or spices
to a Manhattan or other
favorite cocktail using this
sleek double-door device.
williams-sonoma.com
Drinkworks Home Bar

by Keurig $299
Just like making your
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and out comes a cold cock- The PicoBrew C model with PicoStill ($350),
tail, whether you prefer a a 5-liter vacuum still suitable for professional
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with Kentucky straight picobrew.com
bourbon. drinkworks.com

DISTILLATIONS
WHISKY CLUBBING meetings usually bring in around 30 people,

but the Whisky Blasphemy Facebook group
has nearly 5,000 members from all around the
globe, sharing photos and stories about what
whiskies and cocktails they’re drinking.
Among whisky purists, the very concept of
mixing such whiskies in cocktails can seem
sacrilegious—and that’s exactly why Whisky
Blasphemy was formed. “We had encoun-
tered a lot of snobbery in the whisky world,
and we kind of wanted to thumb our noses
at the people who look down at someone
drinking whatever it is they enjoy, because
our philosophy is whatever you enjoy in good
company and good health is the best possible
thing you could drink,” Weisgal says.
Though Weisgal notes that he and the
other Whisky Blasphemy members tend to
drink their whisky neat about 95% of the
time, they’re definitely not afraid to push the
boundaries with cocktails. “I think the most
expensive drink we ever made was a Vieux
Whisky Blasphemy co-founder
Jun Nunez (second from right)
enjoys a cigar and whisky with
fellow club members.
Mixing It Up in Philly
Whisky Blasphemy embraces cocktails
and eschews snobbery
Y ou might not expect to find a trio of

friends enjoying one another’s compa-
ny over cigars at a private cigar lounge
to be discussing Jell-O shots—but for the
Whisky Blasphemy club, those are the exact
Blue Jell-O shots just to mess with this guy.’”
The rest is history, as they say. While the
trio never ended up making those gelatin
delicacies, it did open up a conversation about
mixing cocktails with high-end whiskies. “It
The founding members (left to right) Jun
Nunez, Matt Kinson, and Judd Weisgal
Carré with George T. Stagg bourbon and Rémy

circumstances that brought led us to walk into Jun’s Martin Louis XIII cognac, and one time I used
the group to fruition. CLUB INSIDER house and make an Old- half a bottle of Pappy 23 and mixed it with Ma-
“We’re all members at Fashioned using vintage callan Amber liqueur to make vanilla-maple
Holt’s cigar club in Philadel- LOCATION Philadelphia Macallan 25, good qual- milkshakes for the group—it was delicious!”
phia and there was an older YEAR FOUNDED 2014
ity bitters, and homemade Weisgal says. With the other half of the bottle
gentleman there who was syrup, and we quickly he made two pounds of chocolate-covered
NUMBER OF MEMBERS
a big fan of Johnnie Walker realized that better ingre- walnut whisky bacon, which he cut into bites
30 regular attendees; 4,846
Blue, and we all loved him online followers
dients make better cock- for everyone to enjoy at Holt’s. “We just have
but we used to tease him be- tails,” Weisgal recalls. “Matt a lot of fun; we’re always laughing. Some-
WEBSITE
cause he would never drink suggested we start opening times we look around and just can’t believe all
facebook.com/groups
anything else no matter how up our regular Thursday the different people we’ve met and brought
MEMBERSHIP Join via
much we tried to convince nights at Holt’s to guests together. There’s an ex-NFL star that comes
request to Facebook group
him,” says Judd Weisgal, who want to get together regularly, plus politicians, cigar brand own-
who co-founded Whisky and try these cocktails with ers, cocktail experts—all types of people are
Blasphemy with friends Matt Kinson and Jun us.” That was more than five years ago and the members of our group. And it all started with
Nunez. “Then one day we were at the club group continues to meet every Thursday at Matt being a little bit of a smart aleck and the
and Matt, who’s a smart aleck of the highest Holt’s—even Weisgal, who recently moved to three of us wanting to take the snobbery out of
order, said, ‘We should make Johnnie Walker North Carolina, flies up often to attend. The whisky.” —Sally Kral

DISTILLATIONS
COLLECTING
BUY IT NOW
Timing Is Everything Laphroaig 30 year old The Ian Hunter Story:

Book One
The first of an attractive series of col-
T argeting the smaller

pool of wealthy collec-
tors trying to acquire
high-value whiskies raises the
stakes for those buying whiskies
cost you thousands of dollars.
Once you have a bottle in
hand, your stratagem as a
reseller is to turn a profit:
anything else counts as failure.
lectible Laphroaig releases celebrates
the legacy of Ian Hunter, the last mem-
ber of the Johnston family to run the
distillery. Each bottle sits snugly within
a cut-out section inside a book within
its own slipcase. Laphroaig has been in the fortunate position
to sell for profit. You are putting Demand at auction drives up
to release a succession of whiskies either side of 30 years old in
your assessment of a higher de- hammer prices, but in reality
recent times, and with the distillery promising fifteen chapters to
mand for the whisky up against you only need two impassioned look forward to, this will build into an impressive display for those
that of the distiller, who has collectors with sufficient resolve collectors who manage to complete the series.
calculated their release price not to back down. But if a bottle
based on its anticipated appeal. achieves a record price, don’t
If the retail buyer has an rush to capitalize by selling RECORD BREAKERS
edge it may be that not every yours. Consigning a whisky just
factor is predictable in advance; after it has set a new record U.S. RECORD
awards, high-scoring reviews, seldom accomplishes a higher
Booker’s Rye “Big Time Batch”
and word-of-mouth excitement hammer price; consider that one Hammer Price $750
all have the power to catapult of the two top bidders is already Skinner Inc, Boston, October 2019
a whisky onto the must-have holding their prize, often reduc- Although in 2016 people balked at its $300 release
lists of collectors, bars, whisky ing the next sale price. Having price, this award-winning rye has climbed steadily in
clubs, and investors. Get your the acumen to sell at the right value at auction. The concept for this rye was the final
timing right and you could reap time takes experience. undertaking of master distiller Booker Noe (1929–
the rewards of offering the only Good timing applies to buyers 2004). It was made from over 60% rye and bottled
bottle on the horizon to an ea- as well as sellers. Shrewd collec- uncut and unfiltered at 13 years, 1 month, and 12 days
ger multitude of buyers. Get it tors will sniff out a new high-val- old. Skinner Inc. achieved the hammer price of $750
wrong, and your mistake could ue whisky sold without reserve. per bottle in both October and November last year.
Targeting a high-value
WORLD RECORD
whisky at auction that’s
still available for sale in Glenfarclas 1966 Fino Casks 47 year old
Hammer Price £1,500/$1,935
stores can often result
Whisky Auctioneer, Scotland, November 2019
in a significant dis-
Bearing the likeness of John Grant on the box, this initial
count for the collector.
release of a six-part series paid homage to the family
As retail bottles run
owners of Glenfarclas Distillery. Despite the regular ap-
dry, prices are likely to pearance of numerous Glenfarclas Family Cask releases
climb. Time is money, at auction, this series is coveted for its superb age and
so whether you are a vintage, and distinctive packaging. Glenfarclas is famous
buyer or a seller, make for using oloroso sherry casks to mature their Speyside
sure you act when the single malts, but the 1,444 bottles drawn from three fino sherry
time is right. casks made this an unusual and tasty departure into lighter flavors.
—Jonny McCormick
AUCTION NEWS
World’s Largest Bottle of Single Malt

The largest bottle of single malt whisky sold at auction in Scotland for £15,000/$20,000. This
colossus was hand-filled in 2009 with just over 105 liters of Tomintoul 14 year old single malt. Who-
ever pulls the (substantial) cork will unleash enough whisky to offer 1-oz. pours to 3,560 of their
closest friends. In 2012, the 57-inch tall bottle, which weighs over 360 pounds, went on display at
the Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh. The jumbo bottle previously failed to sell at McTear’s
Auctioneers, Glasgow with an estimate of £100,000–£150,000 in 2013. Online whisky auction spe-
cialists Just Whisky conducted the successful sale last December.

STRAIGHT TALK
But Is It Whiskey?
by CHARLES K. COWDERY
W
hiskey labels are might harm whiskey’s overall image, which ally include less and younger whiskey than
prohibited from using relies so much on the aura of authenticity. the pure products, so they can relieve supply
the expression “pure Part of this is regulatory. After Prohibi- pressure when well-aged whiskey is scarce.
whiskey,” but I am not tion, mature whiskey was in short supply, but Some of these new products are very
so constrained. What people wanted whiskey, so rules were written innovative. I like that. Innovation is good.
I call pure whiskey is distillate made from to allow many products to be labeled as such. Complementing whiskey with other flavors
a mash of grain, distilled below neutrality, Whiskey was defined as I outlined above; has been a key driver in the cocktail boom,
and matured in oak, specifically oak contain- variations required a modifier. Blended whis- so why not bottle it? Unlike vodka, whiskey
ers untouched by anything except whiskey. key made in the U.S. can be up to 80% neutral contributes both alcohol and flavor to
Everything else is something else. spirit, i.e., vodka. (For imported blends, their a drink.
With the massive success of products country of origin’s rules apply.) Spirit whiskey To succeed in the marketplace, you need a
such as Jack Daniel’s Honey and Sazerac’s can be up to 95% vodka. Flavored whiskey is good product and a good story. Most people
Fireball, we’ve seen a lot of these something- whiskey to which flavors have been added. would prefer the story be true. Policing that
elses recently. They’re commonly referred Whiskey that has touched wood in any form is up to all of us. “Truth Well Told” is the
to as flavored whiskey, even though few are other than its original barrel, or a secondary longtime motto of McCann, an advertising
classified as such by the U.S. Department barrel of the same type, is a whiskey specialty. agency. It should guide everyone who is into
of Treasury’s Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Spirit whiskey is an abomination that whiskey. The “well told” part lends itself to
Trade Bureau (TTB). should be stricken from the books. The rest creativity, but you must start with truth.
They range from whiskeys that have spent
time finishing in other casks to sweetened
liqueurs, and everything in between. More Some of these new products are very innovative.
and more bourbons are finished in barrels
that previously held something other than
I like that. Innovation is good. Complementing
whiskey, which in turn makes them some- whiskey with other flavors has been a key driver
thing other than bourbon. A feature article
about this subject appears on page 85.
in the cocktail boom, so why not bottle it?
The marketplace can be messy. Clear delin-
eations as to a whiskey’s type can be elusive. are a closer call. If you like Fireball you prob- Distillers and bottlers who exploit ambigu-
Many scotches are matured in barrels that ably are not reading this magazine, but Fire- ity in the regulations to deliberately mislead
have been seasoned first with sherry. The ball drinkers have as much right to like what consumers may help themselves in the short-
use of sherried barrels which impart flavor is they like as we do. The fact that they think term, but if their product doesn’t deliver on
a traditional practice in Scotland; however, they are drinking whiskey may even tempt their brand promise, they won’t last long. I
I wouldn’t dare call Macallan a flavored whis- them to try a more whiskey-forward drink at am happy to speed that process by calling
ky for their use of sherry barrels. The use of some point, and that’s good for whiskey. them out.
peated malt is another example of a tradi- Often the challenge is to educate without This problem won’t be solved because it
tional scotch flavoring. But tradition aside, is insulting the person you’re trying to en- isn’t a problem. When whiskey was in the
flavoring whiskey with coffee or cherry juice lighten. doldrums, 40 years ago, many worried it was
so different? All these products, no matter how loaded dying because it was old and tired, stuck in
Whiskey is hot right now, so many bever- up they are with neutral spirits, flavorings, the past. It wasn’t attracting young drink-
age marketers will push the rules to put the or sweeteners, contain at least some actual ers and would die out when the last current
word “whiskey” on their labels. One can whiskey. Most of the companies make pure whiskey drinkers did. So while purists may
generally have a live-and-let-live attitude whiskey too. The money all goes into the pine for “pure whiskey” at least no one is
about these products and still worry that they same pockets. The flavored products gener- worried about that now.

HEAD, HEART & TALES
Little Boxes
W
by JONNY MCCORMICK
hen the Scotch Whisky Outside of champagne, the world’s greatest follow their example. On a recent visit to a
Industry Environmental wines are not sold in individual boxes, yet a well-stocked wine and spirits store in Nash-
Strategy was first premium product like whisky is coddled in ville, the ample number of unboxed Tennes-
published in 2009, the heavy, custom-molded glass bottles with see whiskeys and bourbons on the shelves
Scotch Whisky Associa- elaborate stoppers, mounted into bespoke impressed me greatly. But in the current race
tion (SWA) outlined targets for its members wooden boxes and slipped into a protective for premiumization, I fear American whiskey
to achieve by 2020 and 2050. Judging from cocoon of Styrofoam and reinforced card- is vulnerable to the lure of premium packag-
the regular SWA updates, a lot of progress board. The issue with the conveyer belt of ing as distillers strive to convey their luxury
has been made already. Years before 2020, new premium whiskies aimed squarely at credentials to attract discerning drinkers and
the industry had already surpassed its target collectors is that many are never opened and astute collectors. Collectible whiskeys such
of using recycled materials in over 40% of never consumed, and the only thing recycled as Parker’s Heritage Collection, Buffalo Trace
packaging, a 10% improvement in water is their ownership through the auction house. Antique Collection, and limited-edition Four
efficiency, and using non-fossil fuels for a If we’re not careful, we risk becoming depen- Roses all remain admiringly box-free, but one
fifth of its primary energy needs. For packag- dent on extravagant packaging for our value look at the shelves will show you how this
ing weight, the stated goal was a reduction by judgments about Scotch whisky. Innovations phenomenon is stealthily creeping into cer-
an average of 10%, the equivalent of making that reduce packaging weight need to be tain American whiskey ranges.
every case around 1 ½ pounds lighter. But for balanced against expectations of prestige, “Little Boxes,” the protest song that inspires
this particular weighty 2020 objective, it’s status, and durability. Glass bottles can be non-conformity by Malvina Reynolds and
not just that the pounds aren’t falling off fast made lighter yet resilient enough to with- made famous by Pete Seeger, acts as a rallying
enough, they’ve actually become heavier by stand the rigors of global export, but with cry for breaking out of life’s perpetual cycles.
2.4% since 2012. glass, you can only go so far. Bartenders pre- We know younger consumers are choosing to
Over 1.2 billion bottles of scotch are ex-
ported from Scotland every year, the equiva-
lent of 41 bottles per second. Nearly all scotch I doubt many of us would forego buying a favorite sipper
exported to the U.S. leaves England’s deep- if we discovered that it no longer came in a box. What if
sea ports in shipping containers to cross the
Atlantic, although some single malt ship- that box was optional, or available for a few extra dollars?
ments were hastily air freighted to the U.S. to
beat the introduction of last October’s trade fer to display their selection of bottles to their drink less, and their greater environmental
tariffs. Shipping whisky by sea creates fewer clientele, not slip them out of sight into consciousness means they are looking to
greenhouse gas emissions than flying pallets boxes, so the superfluous cartons go straight brands to provide them with experiences that
of whisky around in cargo aircraft, but below into the trash or recycling. I doubt many of us align with their beliefs, including a shift to
the surface, there is still plenty of work to do would forego buying a favorite sipper if we companies who put sustainability and envi-
to improve the sustainability of the ocean discovered that it no longer came in a box. ronmental responsibility first. Later this year,
freight industry. Heavier, bulkier cargo in- What if that box was optional, or available for we will discover whether the SWA has met
creases the costs and greenhouse gas emis- a few extra dollars? We have yet to see a every one of its 2020 environmental targets,
sions associated with transportation, major brand of scotch lead with a commit- but with so much progress made to date, it
underlining why it’s an important issue for ment to ditching boxes and cartons as a show would be regrettable if the vogue of consum-
both whisky producers and drinkers alike. So of strength, but we live in hope. ers was the reason behind why the packaging
why is this issue getting worse rather than Comparatively speaking, scotch has the weight-reduction target has slid further be-
better? The main driver, according to the furthest to go in terms of unboxing, but when yond reach than when they began. Because if
SWA, is the consumer trend for more pre- scotch sets the standard, other nations, espe- consumer demand is the problem, isn’t it time
mium products. cially those making world whiskies, often we started demanding something else?

THE THINKING DRINKER
The Secret to Bar Success
W
by STEPHEN BEAUMONT
here bars are concerned, Which is not to suggest that the Oud Arse- self-evident. For a new generation of bever-
I consider myself to be a naal is filled with Barcaloungers or that the age-room owners, apparently it is not.
bit of an aficionado. Toronado professes a spa-like ambiance. No, Principally, I speak here of the wave of
I can’t say when I first here I am talking more about a level of comfort brewery taprooms and distillery tasting
visited one, but I can befitting a good bar, such as stools and chairs a rooms-cum-cocktail bars that has swept
report that by my late teens, I was a more-or- person might actually enjoy sitting upon, a across most of North America over the past
less regular at the Duke of Bedford, the faux- bartop that’s not so high the average drinker few years. I’ve visited more than my fair
British pub that my friends and I would has to stretch to get an elbow on it, and tables share of them, and even discounting the
frequent after and sometimes during school. sturdy enough that there’s no need to worry certain sameness that many possess—indus-
The Duke wasn’t much to look at, but it was about losing your drink even in the middle of a trial chic, exposed building materials, sparse
convenient, friendly, and perhaps most decoration—it seems to me that many
importantly, comfortable. are a wee bit too dependent on the
It’s been more than a couple of de- novelty of drinking in a production
cades since those halcyon days of space to keep butts in the seats.
drinking at the Duke, but since then I You know those metal barstools with
have been fortunate enough to visit the hand-hold slot in the center of the
literally hundreds of bars, pubs, cafés, seat? Of course you do, because they are
and taverns, all over the world. And as ubiquitous as they are uncomfort-
among a certain class of such premises, able. And their metal chair equivalents,
call them the hip or fashionable spots, or perhaps even worse, plastic garden
that final element—comfort—seems to chairs? Yep, those too are pretty much
be a vanishing attribute. everywhere, and universally unpleasant
Which is not to say that I’m an en- to use. Clunky glassware, drafty con-
thusiastic patron of only the poshest of fines, and unyielding concrete floor-
watering holes. I am not. In fact, three ing—pick two of the three and chances
of my favorite bars—San Francisco’s are you’ll find them at your local tap-
Toronado, the Oud Arsenaal in Ant- room or tasting bar.
werp, and FrangÓ in São Paulo, Bra- I realize, of course, why these places
zil—are hardly places that could be are built this way: it’s cheap and, when
described as upscale. They, and many Antwerp’s comfortable Oud extra production space is required, such
Arsenaal begs one to linger.
other bars I enjoy, are best described furniture is easily stacked and stored.
as ‘basic,’ or perhaps more generously But with a growing number of brewer-
‘rustic,’ although definitely a step up from heated discussion. The atmosphere should be ies and distilleries increasingly reliant upon
‘dive-y.’ ‘Elegant,’ they are not. casual and welcoming, and designed in a way in-house sales to make ends meet, I wonder if
The thing that endears them to me are that demonstrates an appreciation of the real- it might also be somewhat short-sighted.
some of the same attributes I enjoyed at the ity that, while drink selection matters, ambi- Because right now brewery and distillery
Duke, although being scattered around the ance and vibe matter even more. bars are largely novelties, and draw good
world as they are, convenience is much less In short, a place where, as my wife likes to crowds for precisely that reason. But like all
a factor. And to be honest, neither is friend- put it, you can get easily ‘stuck in.’ novelties, eventually this will wear off and
liness, necessarily, since at least one of my To someone like myself, who has been these businesses will need to come up with
BETH DRUCE
favorites is renowned for its grumpy bar- drinking in bars for a good while, has had a new ideas to keep their premises full. I would
tenders. But comfort, well, they all boast hand in designing a few, and even was for a suggest that catering at least a bit to the com-
that in spades. time a part-owner of one, this is all pretty fort of guests is a very good place to start.

F l i p p i n g
WHISKEY
How desperate drinkers,
powerless distillers, and
shameless profiteers
shape the bourbon
black market
BY SEAN EVANS ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAN FEINDT
“T
HE TERM ‘FLIPPER’ SOUNDS SO BAD,”
Paul H.* groans after I casually refer to him as
such. As the midday sun streams in through his
kitchen window, he leans back against a folding
table that’s overflowing with whiskey-shipping
supplies, running a hand through his bed-head
hair. “I sell high-end whiskey as a middleman,” he
clarifies. My eyes drift to ogle another table full of
enviable whiskies—Hirsch Select 25, Sazerac 18, and
Hibiki 21 year olds. Paul’s makeshift processing
center is not what you’d call tidy. Children’s books,
plastic bags, and crumpled cash fill the occasional
voids between the rare bottles packed upon the
stained table.
“But I never feel bad about selling whiskey,” Paul
admits. “It’s like walking into a store, seeing ten lotto
tickets, one of which is a winner, and taking any of
the nine losers. You don’t leave winners on the
shelves. I’m not ruining whiskey. I’m not the reason
people can’t get Van Winkle. I’m one f******* person.
I don’t have that much power.”
I’m in Paul’s home, just outside New York City. We
connected with each other via a Facebook bourbon
group and I’ve come, as agreed, with cash to buy a
store-pick Four Roses Single Barrel. Downstairs in
his ramshackle basement, Paul’s bunker of 300-plus
bottles is divided between two shelving units, one
containing every coveted bourbon and rye you’ve
dreamt of owning and the other containing rare
scotch—holy grail whiskies like Brora 25 and 37 year
olds—and Japanese whisky, including Yamazaki
Mizunara Oak from 1984. These are the same
*Several sources for this story spoke on condition of

anonymity. They are indicated by abbreviated surnames.

A rare whiskey burns a hole in an instaflipper’s hand; he
typically snaps a photo and posts it before leaving the liquor
store parking lot. The bottle is sold before he gets home. At
right: Secure storage until the sale: basement shelving.
whiskies that appear in glossy international string of questions surrounding his sourcing blame the allocation system of control states;
auction catalogs. Paul yanks out various bot- of vintage whiskeys. His suspicion aroused, I blame the distillers for poor allotment of lim-
tles he calls “fire,” including Willett 12 year tell him I’m both a whiskey lover and a jour- ited releases; blame the likes of the Wall Street
old, 2007 Hirsch, and 2006 Van Winkle. nalist investigating the state of the bourbon Journal and other media outlets for declaring
“There used to be a lot more,” Paul gestures secondary market. “I don’t know how I feel that bourbon was a winning investment that
to his prized collection. “But a lot of it was about being included,” replies Paul. would only appreciate in value. One fact was
sold to buy this house.” Up until the fall of 2019, the bourbon sec- crystalline: the bourbon secondary market had
For all his proclamations to the contrary, ondary market was a seemingly unstoppable reached fever pitch.
most whiskey lovers would call Paul a flipper. wave. Some groups on Facebook dedicated to
He doesn’t drink. He doesn’t have another reselling bourbon had surpassed 50,000 mem- Skirting the Rules
As I continued to uncover and gain acceptance
in more Facebook groups, the bourbon
For all his proclamations to the contrary, most whiskey lovers secondary tsunami made landfall. All hell
broke loose. eBay started yanking down
would call Paul a flipper. He doesn’t drink. He doesn’t have “Blanton’s topper, sealed!” posts, knowing full
another job. He sells and ships 30 bottles “in a good week.” well they were illicit sales of unopened bottles.
Facebook began feverishly shutting down
groups, especially those with obvious names,
job. He sells and ships 30 bottles “in a good bers, turning the social network into a venera- like Bourbon Secondary Market. I had just
week.” He boasts that he can get you any ble bazaar, rife with unicorn bottles rarely been accepted into one group and was smack
bottle you want within 24 hours—any bottle. glimpsed in the wild. Unfathomable pricing in the middle of making my first purchase
He claims he’s the first call most retailers abounded, largely propagated by instaflippers: when the page simply disappeared as I typed,
make when their allotment of allocated whis- people who brazenly post snapshots of bottles obliterated by Facebook’s watchdogs. Their
keys arrives. He has spent fifteen hours a day for sale from the driver’s seat of their car, assault on the secondary market groups was
driving around, hitting up scores of liquor listing them at inflated prices before they’ve met with equal parts ire and panic from the
stores across multiple states. He’s braggado- even left the store parking lot. Oftentimes the besieged denizens. Complaints and rebukes
cious until pressed on the intimate details of bottles were snapped up within minutes by toward the social media platform and Mark
his operation. “Man, you’re not the IRS, eager buyers. Blame the taters (slang for a Zuckerberg himself ran the gamut from witty
right?” he nervously chuckles in reply to my whiskey drinker with more money than taste); GIFs to churlish name-calling.

In-person deals are preferred for rarer bourbons, or
bottles especially susceptible to counterfeiting, like
Pappy Van Winkle. Meeting in a parking lot allows the
buyer to inspect the bottle before handing over the cash.
However, even for sophisticated Facebook

algorithms, eliminating bourbon buyers from
the platform proved an endless game of
Whac-A-Mole. One group fell; another
emerged immediately. The names got more
coy, like Brown Water Appreciation Society,
and obvious keywords like “Pappy” or “for
sale” were replaced by encoded acronyms in a
bid to thwart further strafing by Facebook. positioned directly in front of it. The pay- original online trading hubs, where even
Other groups migrated to MeWe, a social ment and shipping logistics are then worked major deals were done as gentlemen’s agree-
platform that purported to offer more shield- out in private messages. Despite the crack- ments based on mutual trust.
ing from governance than Facebook. All the down, sales flourished. I counted 120 sales But what if you couldn’t make it into those
groups posted rules, pinned to the tops of the within a 24-hour period on one group that groups because you lacked the connections?
pages. Rule number one? “You don’t talk had reconstituted in less than a week after Owen Powell was in that very predicament,
about Fight Club.” Given that these rekindled demolition. so the Kentucky native woke up at 5:00 one
groups proliferated to thousands of members “It never used to be like this,” says Chad morning and thought, “Screw it. I’ll start my
within weeks, loose lips still flapped. Colwell, a buyer for Citarella Wine and Spirits own group and make it open to the public.”
Some group administrators banned words in New York City. “Six or seven years ago the Powell launched the Bourbon Secondary
altogether, permitting only emoji-filled code groups were smaller, comprised of the biggest Market when he was only “sort of into bour-
with images of bottles on offer. A post of two bourbon collectors in the world. These guys bon. I didn’t know the secondary market
handles of Weller 12 year old is emblazoned were on a first-name basis with the distillers, values, and I didn’t have any bottles to sell,”
with “ISO” (In Search Of ) and three Christ- and they were selling various barrel picks and he recalls.
mas trees, indicating the seller required $300 vintage stuff you couldn’t find anywhere on At the time, Facebook’s policy allowed the
for each bottle. Type “BIN” (Buy It Now) in shelves. Everyone knew each other and to sale of alcohol provided users were at least 18
the comments and you’re the new owner. enter a group, you had to personally know years old. “I triple-checked that because I
Some groups use images of whiskey bottles someone in it who vouched for you.” Many of couldn’t believe it,” Powell laughs. (Later it
for sale, loaded with coded items. Rather the two dozen-plus sources contacted for this would be amended to 21 years old, then pro-
than purchase a bottle of Pappy, you ask to piece echo Colwell’s sentiments, citing groups hibited completely.) His group blew up. In-
buy the rubber duck or red Sharpie like Phil’s Basement and Strong Water as the stantly. “All of the other admins of the secret

12 Whiskies Most Flipped Wondering which whiskies are most flipped, sold, or traded on the secondary
market? We scoured a half-dozen private Facebook and MeWe groups to
compile this list, averaging the various prices at which the bottles sold.
VAN WINKLE SPECIAL RESERVE W. L. WELLER 12 YEAR OLD BLANTON’S SINGLE BARREL OLD FITZGERALD 15 YEAR OLD
12 YEAR OLD BOURBON BOURBON BOURBON BOTTLED IN BOND BOURBON
(LOT B) $99 MSRP $60 MSRP $150 MSRP (Fall 2019 Release)
$80 MSRP $150 Secondary Market Price $120+ Secondary Market Price $300 Secondary Market Price
$525 Secondary Market Price The potential margins on this Depending on the date it was This decadent wheated sipper
The poster child for whiskey bottle are generous and, given the dumped from the barrel, as stated from Heaven Hill is its oldest
flipping due to its rarity and high scattered national allocation, on the label, this whiskey’s prices release yet, contributing to high
demand. The prevalence of people in some regions where it can fluctuate immensely. People demand on the secondary market.
counterfeits often requires isn’t distributed will pay as much searching for specific dates to Semi-annual releases create more
multiple photos, showcasing fill as $200. commemorate anniversaries or opportunities to buy, but also
level, laser code, and foil seals. birthdates will pay $300 or more. seem to increase demand.
groups were freaking out because I hit 5,000 Antique Collection, sometimes at ludicrous that Pappy Van Winkle was the hardest bour-
members very quickly. They were concerned prices. Bottles of Weller Antique picked up bon to find. I started thinking that I’ve got
the whole market would explode and every- for $30 were tossed out like chum for $299 time and the internet; I can turn a cat into a
one would lose,” Powell says. At the time it just to see if anyone might bite. As the mem- dog if I tried hard enough. So I went out to
was shuttered by Facebook last summer, his bership bourgeoned, the steady flow of avail- get all of the Van Winkle I could.” Back in
group exceeded 55,000 members. able bottles became mesmerizing, like 2011, Paul spent days hunting, coming up
The composition of Powell’s group was a watching a stock market ticker. Wait a few with several bottles of Van Winkle, all ac-
mixed bag. Profiteers mingled alongside minutes, hit refresh on your web browser, quired for $50 a pop. “I put it up on Craigslist
bourbon lovers. The big-money spenders and there’d be a dozen new options. and within a few hours, some guy calls me
shelled out top dollar for rarities like Twisted The ease of selling, buying, and trading on and wants it all at $150 per bottle. I’ve now
Spoke (made at Stitzel-Weller), red wax clo- a proven platform with an active and ad- made $1,200, more money in one day than
sure Van Winkle, 1970s Rebel Yell, and more. dicted fan base like Facebook was alluring to I’ve ever made in my life.” But Craigslist
Nascent bourbon sellers were trying to folks like Paul. “I got into whiskey for straight could be hit or miss, given the broad array of
offload anything from the Buffalo Trace profit,” he says. “My dad and I read in Maxim items for sale on the site. The efficacy of a

BAKER’S 13 YEAR OLD MICHTER’S 10 YEAR OLD OLD FORESTER ELMER T. LEE 100 YEAR
BOURBON SINGLE BARREL BOURBON BIRTHDAY BOURBON TRIBUTE BOURBON
$99 MSRP $130 MSRP (2019 Release) $100 MSRP (2019 Release) $100 MSRP
$200 Secondary Market Price $200 Secondary Market Price $350 Secondary Market Price $400 Secondary Market Price
This single barrel was distributed While Michter’s 20 year old Demand for this annual limited Regular Elmer T. Lee fetches about
via lottery in some control states bourbon can command north of release has risen considerably, $150, but the limited availability of
and often unavailable in others, $2,000, the 10 year is more especially among collectors who the special-edition tribute bottle
making it a current darling. prevalent and affordable. want to complete a set. has made the price soar.
dedicated, captive Facebook group like Pow- Folks who’d obtained bottles at regular but after inspecting the laser code, the foil, and
ell’s would ensure Paul’s money spigot would prices years ago found profits far easier. Louis the fill level, the Van Winkle proved authentic
never stop flowing. D. had been collecting for 30 years when he and he completed the purchase.
Other sellers utilized the expanding mar- came across a known big spender willing to
ket as a double means to an end. Texan Mark shell out $35,000 for seven bottles he’d bought Ferreting Out Fakes
S. saw plenty of Weller on his local stores’ for around $100, including rare Willett 17 year Counterfeiting is trotted out by legislators
shelves and a demand for it on the secondary old, Eagle Rare 17 year old, Black Maple Hill and distillers alike as a chief reason the
market. “Stores down here use a point system bourbon, and others. This enormous upside secondary market should be shuttered. At a
based on your annual spends,” he explains. was too tempting. After checking on the buy- public roundtable last September, Preston
“If I can buy enough to up my profile to be er’s reputation within the resale community, Van Winkle of the eponymous bourbon brand
offered the big-dog bottles, and make a little Louis invited him to a face-to-face transaction. revealed to a gathered crowd that there were
money in the short-term, why shouldn’t I?” “This was my first sale and the guy FedExed a “a lot of dollars being thrown [by themselves
He works two full-time jobs, and considered bunch of cash initially to prove this was legiti- and distiller Buffalo Trace] from a legal
selling whiskey to be a side hustle over a mate, then he came down with the remainder standpoint to getting Facebook groups shut
two-year period, earning him about $5,000 in of the cash in person,” he says. down.” This came after his remark that “it’s
profit the first year and $10,000 in profit the For deals of this magnitude, people prefer to the a******* in the retail shops and on
second year. It wasn’t exactly easy money: he meet in person for obvious reasons. I spoke Craigslist that are making all that money; not
sold and shipped around 700 bottles, laying with one physician from Illinois who bought a us. First, it’s illegal. Second, there are tons of
out $23,000 to make his first $5,000. Many bottle of Van Winkle Special Reserve 12 year counterfeiters. There are countless instances
retailers now elect to maximize their own old (Lot B) for $400 off Craigslist and drove an where people are selling empty bottles on
profit by marking up their rare bottles close hour to meet the seller at a gas station. His eBay and then it reappears full.” Preston then
to the secondary-market price. concern was that it was a fraudulent bottle, continued on page 67

WILLETT 6 YEAR OLD BARRELL 15 YEAR OLD WILLIAM LARUE WELLER HIBIKI 17 YEAR OLD
FAMILY ESTATE BOURBON CASK STRENGTH BOURBON BOURBON JAPANESE WHISKY
$100 MSRP (2019 Release) $250 MSRP $99 MSRP (2019 Release) $150 MSRP
$250 Secondary Market Price $300 Secondary Market Price $725 Secondary Market Price $450 Secondary Market Price
Demand for aged Willett ryes has Partially sourced from MGP in Consistently high-scoring and Second only to bourbon, Japanese
reached a fever pitch and its Indiana, Barrell’s whiskeys are limited, this is the current star of whiskies, especially those bearing
bourbons aren’t far behind. well-aged and well-curated, as the Buffalo Trace Antique Collec- age statements, are also compel-
Private barrels like “Annd It’s their high scores in the Whisky tion, all of which fetch high prices ling targets for flippers.
Gone” command triple this price. Advocate Buying Guide show. on the secondary market.
Speak in Circles Whiskey hunters and traders have their own lingo, including some terms
created to elude computer algorithms that could thwart online transactions.
C+S Cost plus shipping. a love of whiskey. good juice, but is it SHELF TURD A perpetuates the hype of
A seller is stating they FT For trade. really worth $500?” whiskey that has no a whiskey’s rarity. “Have
are making no profit on POOR MAN’S PAPPY secondary market value, you seen the price
a bottle. IN THE WILD An usually because it is increase on the newest
A homemade blend of
instance when a bottle retail-priced at or above release? Haha. I’ll leave
CAMP OUT The act of more affordable wheated
is found on a retail shelf its actual quality. Savvy that one for the taters.”
waiting outside a retail bourbons attempting to
rather than through a buyers pass these
store for a whiskey, private or secondary
replicate the Van Winkle UNICORN A rarely
flavor profile. bottles by, leaving them seen whiskey.
often overnight. market sale. to sit on the shelf.
CONUS Shipping only HONEY HOLE A store PPFF PayPal Friends WHITE WHALE
to contiguous 48 states. and Family only. This SLEEPER A whiskey A collector’s single most
that frequently offers that is underappreciated
avoids raising red flags wanted bottle. “I have a
DOLL HAIRS Dollars. rare whiskies. “I visited and sits on the shelf or
within PayPal. shelf full of unicorn
my family upstate this fails to get its due
DUSTY A vintage bottle bottles, but the hunt for
weekend and you won’t POPCORN AUCTION respect.
no longer in production, my white whale goes on.”
believe what I picked up An auction where the
sometimes found TATER Disparaging
at my favorite honey bid close is automati- YOUR LABEL The
dust-covered on shelves. term for a buyer who
hole.” cally extended to buyer provides a paid
FLIPPER One who prevent last-minute pays inflated prices for a shipping label to the
JUICE Slang for the whiskey or generally
resells whiskey purely bids, or sniping. seller. Upon receipt, the
liquid in the bottle. “It’s
for profit, as opposed to seller ships the bottle.

Owen Powell founded the Bourbon
Secondary Market group, which had
over 55,000 members when it was
shut down by Facebook. He now has
his own whiskey brand.
tossed out a disturbing kicker when asked spending big money on bourbon. counterfeiting measures than anyone else.”
how he’d handle a counterfeiter: “I’d make Of the nearly 150,000 bottles moved on Buffalo Trace declined to answer questions
him or her drink whatever rotgut they put in Bourbon Secondary Market, Powell can’t or comment for this story.
the bottle and hope it was poisonous.” estimate what percentage might have been Sealed bottles are the domain of collectors,
Kenny Coleman, host of the Bourbon Pur- illegitimate. “Potentially there are thousands but the secondary market also deals in sam-
suit podcast, who was there recording the of fakes out there, many due to the Buffalo ples for true whiskey lovers who simply want
Van Winkles’ comments for an episode, was Trace and [parent company] Sazerac employ- to try a fine whiskey without purchasing a
flabbergasted. “That put Preston in a negative ees,” he bellows, referring to “Pappygate,” a full bottle. Sellers take a 750 ml bottle and
light with the consumer market. I don’t see 2015 case involving nine individuals, includ- divide it into 100 ml samples for resale, mak-
what they were trying to accomplish in taking one Buffalo Trace employee, who stole ing their authenticity a matter of pure faith.
ing down the secondary market. It’s hard to more than $100,000 worth of Pappy, Weller, “You lose the paper trail in the secondary
make a good counterfeit,” he says. and Eagle Rare. “Last year, secondary market market,” says Josh Hafer, senior manager of
For a global brand that’s been built on the policing found a refilled bottle of Pappy 23 corporate communications and community
affairs at Heaven Hill Brands. “I would be
heartbroken for someone to think they’re
Counterfeiting is trotted out by legislators and distillers alike getting a Parker’s Heritage Collection, either
as a chief reason the secondary market should be shuttered. a full bottle or a sample, and have it not be
what they were expecting it to be.”
back of infamous secondary pricing, the Van and traced the serial number back to a guy in The Long Arm of the Law
Winkles’ stance seems somewhat incongru- Elizabethtown, Kentucky who bought it off Regardless of the authenticity of the liquid,
ous. “Secondary groups are fantastic at de- Craigslist from a Buffalo Trace employee selling alcohol without a license is illegal in
WILLIAM DESHAZER
tective work,” Colwell notes. “They keep stealing the Van Winkle shrink caps. If Buf- all states. (Kentucky permits resale of vintage
databases of serial numbers and tax stamps falo Trace wants to say they’re the reason the bottles under certain circumstances.) Getting
and can find refill bottles from eBay and secondary market got shut down, good for caught is of little concern to most sellers. The
alert group admins.” No one has more incen- them. But they should look at how their own serious ones have adroitly ascertained how to
tive to ferret out fakes than the people employees contributed more to circumvent the system.

team sent out emails to people who’d posted
bottles for sale, informing them it is illegal
and asking them to remove the posts. “All but
one individual complied, so we purchased a
bottle from him and he was charged.” Jones
notes that his crew primarily focuses on
blatant personal sales, not trafficking by mail,
but emphasizes that all sales of this type are
illegal in Pennsylvania.
Other states have taken a more hardline
stance. Wiping out the secondary market
seems to be a point of pride for Ohio Depart-
ment of Commerce Division of Liquor Con-
trol superintendent Jim Canepa. He’s in a
unique position of regulating liquor sales
within his control state, but also buying and
selling on its behalf. This requires ingratiation
with the distillers, like Buffalo Trace, in order
for Ohio to receive the maximum volume of
allocated products. “Health and human safety
is a key concern of mine because of the coun-
terfeit products that are going on in Mexico,
India, or other U.S. places,” Canepa says,
reiterating that the distillers care deeply
about brand integrity. “And I want to demon-
strate I’m protecting their brands.”
Beyond fakes, Canepa brings up “poisoned”
Bourbon Pursuit podcast host Kenny bottles a few times during our chat, once
Coleman (above) was shocked by Preston
referencing the Tylenol tampering issue from
Van Winkle’s comments about the second-
ary market. Manhattan retailer Chad Colwell 1982 that resulted in numerous deaths—a
(right) views secondary market groups as somewhat flawed analogy since the toxins
counterfeit detectives. were inserted into legitimate pill bottles and
snuck back onto store shelves. Canepa con-
Louis only ships via USPS, because the cedes no poisoned bourbon bottles have been
“feds can’t open a shipment without a war- uncovered in his state and doesn’t have any
rant, and there aren’t any alcohol dogs so the data on poisoned bourbon nationally. “We’ve
odds of interception are low.” Several flip- been lucky so far,” he notes. “We’re in pre-
pers, including Louis, knowingly sold directly vention mode.”
to police officers. “Cops don’t get allocated Then Canepa drops a bombshell. “Mark
bottles any easier. They’re in all the groups, Brown [CEO of Buffalo Trace] himself is send-
buying along with the rest of us,” he says. ing me screenshots of secondary sellers in
“Come after me, and I’d just say, ‘Do you want Ohio. They’ve got brand people doing nothing
these 20 cops I’ve sold to?’” Powell got pan- but trolling the secondary markets. When that
icked messages about police officers and seller is in my state, I send it right to the liquor
TOP: WILLIAM DESHAZER; BOTTOM: PETER GARRITANO

judges in his groups, but nothing came of it. cops.” Buffalo Trace declined to comment.
Coleman states that he knows of several Directly helping Brown helps Ohio, Canepa
Louisville officers who buy, sell, and trade on argues, given that he’s competing for bottles
the gray market. with other control states like Pennsylvania,
“Investigating secondary sales is not a pri- Michigan, North Carolina, and Virginia. “If I
ority issue, but it’s not uncommon,” says Cap- make Ohio a fertile marketplace for offerings,
tain Jamie Jones of the Pennsylvania State appear on secondary markets, where Jones’s I’m going to get more juice than anyone else,”
Police’s Bureau of Liquor Control Enforce- officers are anonymously lurking, trying to he says. “I need to practice legal and fair
ment. Jones oversees the Operations Division identify individuals engaged in reselling. distribution of the supply I have; I’m running
for the Bureau, a force of 171 officers, one of Once confiscated, the bottles meet a certain a business, not a club.” In a bid to more fairly
the largest battalions of liquor cops in the end. “It gives me great pain to know these distribute rare whiskeys, Canepa began raf-
country. Pennsylvania, a control state, offers bottles are being poured down the drain,” fles and lotteries and claims that as a result
allocated bottles to residents using an online says Jones, himself a bourbon fan. “We’d “regular people thank me all the time, saying
lottery system. Despite warnings directed at prefer to educate the public that this is illegal they’ve never been able to get a Kentucky
the lucky winners, rare bottles sometimes so it stops altogether.” A while ago, Jones’s Owl or a Weller C.Y.P.B. before.”

Not everyone appreciates Canepa’s efforts.
Neil S. is an Ohio resident who “can’t get
anything rare here. Even Stagg Jr. is hard to
come by. I have to go into a lottery with
70,000 people and be lucky enough to get
picked,” he says with the sting of a guy on a
20-year losing streak. Accordingly, Neil be-
lieves he should be able to buy from anyone
and pay whatever he wishes, even if that’s
$4,000 for a bottle of Pappy. “People may
think I’m stupid, but that’s no one’s business
but mine.”
Distribution Tactics
The Van Winkles’ answer to desperate buyers
like Neil is they should seek out the whiskeys
at a bar. This misses the point that many bars
also acquire rare whiskeys through illegal
back channels. Michael V. owns a Baltimore
restaurant and has been collecting bourbon
for years. The bulk of the rare offerings on his
menu were purchased from secondary
market groups because “my distributor is
garbage,” says Michael. “Instead of Mr. Van
Winkle mouthing off about the market, how
about he fixes the distributor issues and talks Sellers include props with the botlle they’re selling to
to whoever in his distillery is allocating those If you’re wondering how a bar ends up avoid detection by authorities. Buyers ask to buy the
bottles? Distilleries have a responsibility to with an unexpected bottle of Pappy, the an-
help if they want to complain,” he suggests. swer may again lie with distributors. “In
baseball instead of requesting the whiskey by name.
“One of my groups shared that there are ten Kentucky, Republic National [Distributing
cases of Weller 12 down in a Texas liquor Company] distributes Sazerac products,” says Kentucky, as well as other markets, has not
store. I’ve never seen that in the wild up here. Powell. “They were allocating Van Winkle been able to keep up with demand for these
I have to beg and cajole just to get Blanton’s, products as rewards for selling cases of wine. products.”
which rarely comes.” Admittedly, distillers Sazerac found out and got upset, demanding Retailers who practice fair pricing and sell-
and other producers have limited influence that Republic base allocations on sales of ing are clamoring for a change in the distribu-
on where their products end up at retail due Sazerac products, like its popular Fireball tion model. Colwell, whose store is inside the
to the well-entrenched U.S. three-tier system cinnamon whisky,” Powell goes on to explain, new billion-dollar Hudson Yards complex,
(see page 72). “Now you have a drive-through liquor store hides the good stuff to avoid what he calls
Even for fortunate bars that do get rare moving tons of Fireball whisky minis which “Blanton’s zombies” from meandering in and
bottles directly, it’s sometimes questionable can net them a bottle of Pappy. If a bar had a snapping it up for the reasonable $65 that he
charges.
His most important call of the year is in the
“It gives me great pain to know these bottles are being poured fall when he’s trying to get allocated prod-
ucts. “Everyone in the city dials up Empire
down the drain. We’d prefer to educate the public that this is Distributors and we’re all trying to get
—Captain Jamie Jones, Pennsylvania State Police
illegal so it stops altogether.” Bureau of Liquor Control Enforcement
through. I spent an hour on hold last year and
when someone picked up, they claimed they
couldn’t hear me and told me to call back and
whether the bottle will ever reach the back- Fireball machine, they’d have more Sazerac hung up,” Colwell says. “I’m one guy trying to
bar. There’s too much risk: staff might over- sales than another bar moving the right prod- place my order and I couldn’t get anything.
pour, drink it themselves, or steal it. So the ucts. These places didn’t have a need for it, so Other stores in the city are using relatives in
bar owner might decide to get rid of it at the out the back door it went and the owners and other countries, armed with their account
point of sale. “Sales reps from the distributor sales reps got a huge profit.” When contacted code, to have 40 chances to get through and
would call me saying they’d convinced a bar about these allegations, Buffalo Trace and get it ordered. That’s not how it should be.”
owner that didn’t normally get Pappy to sell Sazerac declined to comment. Republic Na- Other retailers play the hand they’re dealt
them back a Pappy 23 for $800,” says Powell. tional declined to answer direct questions, and attempt to reap the market price. “If
“The sales reps would then sell it to me for but stated, “The demand for bourbon has you’re willing to pay $700 for a Weller Full
$1,500 and I’d put it on the secondary market reached all-time highs in the United States Proof, why not have that money come to me?”
and take a cut.” and around the world. Unfortunately posits Mark B., owner of an East Coast liquor

Why Can’t
store. “It’s a no-brainer to go after bottles that make a quick buck never really works. To stay
are resold on the secondary market because I in business a decade from now, you can’t
I Find Weller
know I’ll have buyers no matter what.” justify increasing the price of a $100 bottle to
Counter to the Van Winkle response, some $500 because you need customer loyalty. The
whiskey makers embrace the secondary mar- Van Winkles and the other manufacturers
(or Pappy, or
ket. “You can’t fight the marketplace,” says should work with distributors to find the bad
Ken Lewis, owner and founder of New Riff actors out there.” To their credit, the Van
Kentucky Owl, or...)

Distilling. His staff follows the secondary Winkles and Sazerac have resisted any temp-
market for research. “For a 5 year old brand, tation to inflate prices, taking only modest
in My State?
it’s flattering to see who we’re alongside.” increases for themselves despite the second-
Plus, Lewis believes there’s marketing data to ary market escalation. Some of the rarest
be found there. “We look at what appears—al- Buffalo Trace bottles, including 1980, 1982,
most exclusively single barrels—and note and 1983 vintages under the O.F.C. label, went
I
we’ll need to make some more single barrels straight to auctions when released in 2016,
and not all bottled in bond when we launch a raising $1.2 million for a host of charities f you’ve ever looked with envy at a
new product in a few years’ time. However, it including cancer services, animal rights, and photo of a faraway liquor store,
would be anathema to price New Riff at what military veterans. In April 2018, bourbon packed with shelves full of coveted
the secondary market will bear.” bottled from Buffalo Trace’s six millionth whiskeys like Blanton’s, Four Roses
When PM Spirits launched Mic Drop, barrel only went to nonprofits to help with Limited Edition, or Weller 12 year
owner Nicolas Palazzi, who’d cut his teeth in fundraising efforts. old, and wondered why your local selec-
brandy and cognac, was blown away by how It’s impossible to separate the secondary tion appears so bleak in comparison, the
fast the $100 bourbon sourced from Indiana’s market from the maelstrom of negativity that answer may simply be that you’re in the
MGP Distillery sold out. After the second hovers over it, but redeeming tales of camara- wrong place. Each state determines how
edition—several years older and priced at derie, benevolence, and sacrifice are also to handle its own alcohol sales, often
$450—was released, “I got screenshots of omnipresent. Many whiskey lovers have creating huge disparities in whiskey
crazy prices on Facebook,” Palazzi says. “I forged lasting friendships with secondary- selection, availability, and prices.
found it funny. We just needed to add a bour- market strangers from other states, some of The United States has one of the most
bon to the lineup and here we are.” The in- whom began traveling to meet in person for complicated systems of alcohol sale in
clusion of Mic Drop in the secondary circles bottle shares. Others have established symbi- the world, and it all goes back to Prohibi-
makes Palazzi wonder how successful the otic “cost plus shipping” relationships where tion. Before the Noble Experiment that
product really is. “Am I selling 1,000 bottles allocated bottles common in one region are outlawed the manufacturing, transporta-
to 100 guys who are waiting to flip it? Or is it swapped, without profit. “There are plenty of tion, and sale of “intoxicating liquors,”
five bottles to 2,000 people who are opening good folks in these groups,” says Michael V. producers of alcohol, usually brewers,
it? I don’t know which, and I don’t know if “People in it are just trying to help each other often owned the places where alcohol
the brand is successful as a result.” Palazzi find great whiskey.” was sold, such as saloons. This arrange-
isn’t at all opposed to buyers flipping Mic Whether we’re talking weapons or bour- ment, known as a “tied house,” often led
Drop. “We work hard to sell it and after we bon, black markets are adept at survival, and to unfair competition and harmful pro-
do, I don’t care what happens next.” His the secondary market will evolve to meet motion and consumption of alcohol.
pricing is based on his cost—Mic Drop’s most the times. With eBay and Facebook cooper- When Prohibition was repealed in
recent release was $60 for a 4 year old bour- ating with law enforcement, established 1933, the federal government reverted to
bon—and he intends for it to remain that way. whiskey sellers will resort to email newslet- allowing states to regulate alcohol within
ters, privately hosted websites, or WhatsApp their borders. Most states sought to elim-
A Broken System Still Works chats—far harder to dismantle. Some move inate tied houses, increase public safety,
“Bourbon has become a commodity,” Paul on; Powell recently launched Fern Creek, his and collect tax revenue by introducing a
surmises. “Some of us choose to use it, own whiskey brand. Others are lifers. Guys compulsory separation of the three tiers:
whereas other people stockpile 900 bottles in like Paul will always exist, living for the alcohol production, distribution, and
their basement, like that’s a normal thing to thrill of the hunt and the resulting profit. retail. No entity may occupy more than
do. Everyone started getting upset like it I snagged that Four Roses bottle from Paul to one tier, meaning a brewery can’t own a
wasn’t a commodity.” The real question is if gift to a friend, a big Four Roses fan, to cele- bar, and a distillery isn’t allowed to sell
you’ve got a $300 bottle that can easily brate his engagement. This single barrel recipe directly to a liquor store. The federal
command $2,000, who should be making that (OESQ) was the only one he hadn’t been able government licenses producers and im-
money? The distiller? The distributor? The to sample yet. Upon presentation, his eyes porters (the top tier), as well as distribu-
retailer? Flippers? And should they be widened with excitement. “I’ve been hunting tors and wholesalers (the middle tier),
required to do it legally? in stores for a while and never found this,” he but leaves licensing of retailers (the bot-
“When I look at the Buffalo Trace and beamed as we poured a dram. Eyes closed, as tom tier) up to the states. States may also
Sazerac portfolio, they’re not doing anything he savored the first sip, a broad grin crept decide exactly how they want to regulate
to create crazy prices or bump up MSRP across his face. “This is better than I imagined. distribution (most impose additional
because they look at this as the long game,” I can’t believe you found a bottle.” The system licensing on distributors and wholesal-
says Coleman. “The short game of trying to may be broken, but the system still works. ers), local taxation, and sales of

where’s the whisky?
alcohol—for example, restricting sales on
Sundays or banning happy hour discounts.
Some states take a light touch, allowing dis-
tributors and retailers to operate in a mostly
free market, but others maintain a monopoly
over distribution and/or retail of some or all
Whisky Allocation Under the Three-Tier System
The three-tier system of alcohol distribution became enshrined in law following the repeal of
types of alcohol. These “control states” can Prohibition. It is designed to distribute wine and spirits from manufacturer to marketplace
often be identified by their Alcoholic Beverage while ensuring all federal and state taxes are paid. When a whisky is limited, allocation may
Control (ABC) stores which are the only retail be based on demographics, geography, sales, or even arbitrary factors.
outlets offering spirits and, in some cases, wine
and/or beer. There are seventeen control states
Tier 1
in the U.S., encompassing about one-quarter of
the nation’s population.
What does all this have to do with your
hunt for a bottle of whiskey? It means that
instead of a single marketplace, the United
Manufacturer
Distillery produces a
States functions as 50 different markets. Dis- limited number of bottles
tillers have to work with each state on an of a desirable whisky.
individual basis in order to sell their whiskey
there. Getting set up to sell in 50 markets
Tier 2
takes a lot of time and money; for smaller EAST COAST WEST COAST CONTROL
distillers or those with limited amounts of
whiskey, it’s often not worth it to go through
the process in every single state, especially in
states where the system is onerous or product
Wholesalers
Licensed importers,
demand is not promising. New brands typi- distributors, and state
cally choose to establish themselves in their control boards receive a
home state, or begin by focusing on the largest portion of whisky for their EUROPE JAPAN
markets, like New York and California. markets. Other bottles may
When it comes to limited-edition whis- go to export markets.
keys, distillers may decide how to allocate
them to various states—for example, New
Tier 3
York might get more bottles than Illinois
because the distiller anticipates higher de-
mand there. But the distiller loses control
once the bottles are in the hands of the dis-
tributor, who makes the call about which
Retailers
Liquor stores, bars,
stores and bars get bottles, and how many and restaurants far
they receive. outnumber the
Allocation decisions are rarely discussed available bottles, so
publicly, leaving whiskey lovers in the dark as the regional whole-
to exactly how or where these bottles might saler or control board
appear. The decision might factor in demo- allocates them.
graphics, location, or a store’s sales record;
distributors may elect to reward stores that
have sold large volumes of completely unre-
lated products by allocating coveted whis-
keys to them.
And if you think you can simply order the Exceptions to the Rule Although the separation of the three tiers is fairly
whiskey you desire online, you’re in for more standard across the country, some states make exceptions for small craft producers.
For example, many states allow craft breweries to operate brewpubs and taprooms
disappointment. Because of the separation of
where they can sell their beer without going through a distributor. This type of conces-
the tiers, most states don’t allow distillers—in-
sion has increasingly been extended to craft distilleries as well. In some states, craft
state or out—to sell and ship you a bottle. And producers are allowed to self-distribute their products up to a capped number of cases.
because each state has its own system, few On the other end of the size spectrum, large producers and retailers are often able to
allow out-of-state retailers to ship spirits across establish distributorships under a linked or subsidiary enterprise. These partner
state lines. You might be able to order whiskey businesses—which can improve efficiencies and save money—are technically following
from an in-state store, however, and have it the letter, if not the spirit, of the law.
brought to you via their delivery service.
—Susannah Skiver Barton
O Back
N IRELAND’S windswept
southwest coast, the Galley
Head Lighthouse sits high
above the rocky cliffs at the
edge of the Atlantic. The fields
around the lighthouse are filled
with sea air and mist, and are
planted with barley. The Scully
family has owned this farmland for three
centuries. “It’s a special place to grow barley,”
says Michael Scully, who represents the
eighth generation of family leadership. “The
maritime air permeates right to the grain.”
Scully’s passion for farming extends to a
love of whiskey, and he saw the farm’s seaside
location as an ideal place for making and
maturing it. In 2016, he took the plunge, and
scouted a distillery location in the town of
Clonakilty, about five miles down the road.
Scully’s mission: to make single pot still whis-
key. “The very best single pot still expres-
sions are among the very best exemplars of
whiskey in the world, and our goal is to make
world-class whiskeys,” he says. Clonakilty
Distillery, a modern glass building that once
housed a local bank, began laying down whis-
key in March of last year. Small amounts of
single malt will be produced, but the predom-
inant expression will be single pot still.
In the capital city of Dublin, ancestral home
of the single pot still whiskey style, Teeling
Distillery opened its doors five years ago in
the Liberties district, a neighborhood that
teemed with distilleries in the 18th and 19th
centuries. The Teeling company symbol is a
phoenix, meant to represent the restoration of
Dublin distilling to its former glory. Much of
that history surrounds the making of single
pot still whiskey. Just over a year ago, Teeling
proudly released its first single pot still ex-
pression—and the first made in Dublin in over
40 years. Admiring the whiskey’s sky blue
label, whose color represents the city’s tradi-
tional “Dublin blue,” master distiller Alex
Chasko leaves no doubt about its importance.
“This whiskey is why we built the distillery,
and why we built it in Dublin,” Chasko says.
“This is the future personification of Teeling.”
Ireland recently witnessed the opening of its
st
31 distillery—up from only four a decade ago—
and 20 of those are now making single pot still
whiskey. This uniquely Irish style ruled the
world in the 19th century, and then nearly van-
ished into history in the 20th. It may now repre-
sent the bright future of Irish whiskey.

THE JOYFUL RETURN
OF IRELAND’S MOST
IRISH WHISKEYS
BY DAVID FLEMING
PHOTOGRAPH BY
JEFF HARRIS
from the
brink WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 77

What sets single pot still whiskey apart? hyper-efficient column still had given rise to designated as the export leader, had its bottle
Like the single malts of Ireland and Scotland, the international dominance of blended changed from clear to green to accentuate its
it’s pot-distilled from a mash of barley by a Scotch whiskies. War, economic downturns, Irishness abroad.)
single distillery—but the defining details are and taxation did the rest, and by the 1960s the Only two small brands remained in the en-
in the mashbill, and in the proportions of its Irish whiskey industry lay in ruins, its silent, tire Irish single pot still universe: the “bonded”
various grain types. While single malt is dis- shuttered distilleries dotting the landscape. labels Redbreast and the Spot range. Bonded
tilled entirely from malted barley, single pot Only three survivors remained in all of the whiskeys were owned by merchants—import-
still mash contains a substantial share of Irish Republic—the once-mighty Dublin dis- ers, pub owners, grocers, and the like—who
unmalted barley. (By law Irish pot still whis- tillers John Jameson & Son and John Power & purchased whiskey from their local distillery
key contains at least 30% of each barley type, Son, and Cork Distilleries Co. in Midleton, and aged it in their own cellars “under bond,”
plus up to 5% of other grains.) The husky raw County Cork. In 1966, they joined forces in a exempt from duty until release. Redbreast, so
barley helps create single pot still’s unique final roll of the dice, and formed Irish Distill- named because its owner’s chairman was an
profile—thick and loaded with spice and ers. Plans were mapped for Jameson and ardent birdwatcher, belonged to the Irish
complex fruit notes. Its mouthfeel is often Power to be consolidated into Midleton, end- branch of Britain’s W&A Gilbey Ltd. The Spot
described as oily, leathery, or viscous. An ing Dublin’s reign as a global whiskey capital. range was owned by Dublin wine merchant
explosion of prickly spice then follows, At Irish Distillers, the mission was to rein- Mitchell & Son, and its name was inspired by
reaching its crescendo with a parade of spices troduce Irish whiskey to the world. Its execu- the dabs of colored paint applied to barrels in
and notes of ginger, licorice, Christmas cake, tives recruited a small army of marketing the Mitchell & Son cellars to mark their aging
dried fruits, and demerara sugar, to name a consultants, who advised that single pot still’s potential. Pub patrons began calling for these
few characteristic flavors. profile was too difficult for new drinkers to whiskeys by the color of the “spot” on the
In its origins, the creation of single pot still grasp. The “modern” taste was for lighter- barrelheads—green for the 10 year old, yellow
whiskey was an accident of history, brought style blends. Irish Distillers accordingly tran- for the 12 year old, and red for the 15 year old—
on by the taxman. The Malt Tax of 1785, one sitioned its production from pot still to and the name stuck.
of Britain’s many onerous levies, placed a blends. The legendary pot still brand Powers For many decades, Redbreast and the Spot
duty on malted barley used in whiskey pro- became a blended whiskey in 1967, and Jame- whiskeys were sourced from John Jameson &
duction. To ease this burden, Ireland’s distill- son followed suit a year later. (Jameson, Son in Dublin. But the Jameson Distillery had
ers began substituting a portion
of unmalted (and thus untaxed) Barley fields dot the coast around Galley
barley in their mashbills. The Head Lighthouse, land that has been
addition of this “green” malt farmed by the Scully family for three
produced the surprisingly centuries. Below: The Shed Distillery
creamy, spiced style that would
go on to conquer the world.
Its popularity spread like
wildfire, and even after the Malt
Tax was repealed in 1855, there
was no going back. In Victorian
drawing rooms and pubs across
Ireland and throughout the
British Empire, single pot still—
then known as “pure pot still” or
“Dublin sipping whiskey”—be-
came the tipple of choice. (The
word “single” was substituted
only in recent years to resolve a
dispute with U.S. authorities
over the term “pure.”) By the end of the 19th
century, Irish single pot still accounted for
about 80% of the entire world’s whiskey sup-
ply. The style became a byword for sophisti-
cated whiskey, its taste considered far more
refined than that of its rustic Scottish cousins.
Then came Irish whiskey’s long fall from
grace. After Ireland won independence in
TOP: INK. AGENCY
1922, it faced a U.S. market that was com-

pletely shuttered by Prohibition. A trade war
with Britain was ignited in the 1930s, blocking
Irish exports to all countries of the Empire.
Meanwhile, rival Scotland’s embrace of the

Michael Scully, owner
of Clonakilty Distillery
now become part of Irish Distillers, and began devoting more attention to single
in an effort to bring all whiskey develop-
ment in-house, Irish Distillers decided to
In its origins, the creation pot still. Since 2011, it has released at
least one new expression every year from
terminate all sales to bonders. Mitchell &
Son, now faced with a finite supply, dis-
of single pot still whiskey its Redbreast, Powers, Spot, or Midleton
single pot still labels.
continued the Yellow Spot and Red Spot
labels. But Jonathan Mitchell, the sixth-
was an accident of history, All of them offer signature pot still
creaminess and spice, but are distin-
generation owner who still leads the
company today, managed to strike an
brought on by the taxman. guished by the differences in their distil-
lation and wood maturation. Redbreast is
agreement whereby Irish Distillers the most sherry-driven of the bunch,
would continue supplying Green Spot, taking Distillers master distiller Brian Nation, who matured in a combination of first-fill Ameri-
ownership of the brand’s global rights while succeeded Barry Crockett in 2013. “It’s only can oak and sherry casks but with the sherry
leaving Mitchell & Son in charge of Ireland. thanks to Barry and his father before him side in command, delivering notes of dried
Redbreast, meanwhile, kept going for a time, that we were able to release the whiskeys we fruit, Christmas cake, and spiced complexity.
but finally went off the market in 1985. At have today. In 1981 when Barry took over, The Spot range has a slightly different distil-
that point, Green Spot became the last sur- there were stocks, but by the mid-’80s we had late, enhanced by the vanilla sweetness from
viving single pot still whiskey. much more in our inventory. We had some its toasted American oak barrels. But the Spots
visionary innovators who saw the future differ vastly from one another. Green Spot, at 6
Modern Masters potential of single pot still.” to 10 years old, is matured mainly in American
In the 1980s, only one person in all of Ireland Irish Distillers in the meantime had acquired oak barrels with a small contribution from
was making single pot still whiskey—Midle- the Redbreast trademark from Gilbey, and it sherry casks, and sits in the fruity quadrant,
ton’s legendary master distiller Barry Crockett. relaunched the brand in 1991. Redbreast’s with notes of orchard fruits, freshly mown
Born in the Distillers Cottage on the grounds of return received some high-profile praise from grass, and toasted oak. Yellow Spot, a 12 year
Midleton, Crockett assumed the master Michael Jackson, the most influential whiskey old, is different altogether—thanks to the
distiller position in 1981, a role once held by his writer of the time. Single pot still remained influence of malaga wine casks. It contains
father, Max, who had retired in 1974. elusive even within Ireland, but this signaled whiskey that isn’t merely finished in malaga
“Back in the 1980s, the easiest option hope for its long road to restoration. casks, but aged there a full 12 years. That liq-
would have been to shut the distillery for half With the commercial success of Jameson uid is then added in measured amounts to the
the year and make only the blended volume in export markets and tastes returning to bourbon and sherry-cask aged components to
required at the time,” says current Irish more complex whiskeys, Irish Distillers create a delightfully chewy whiskey, with

us every year,” says Scully affectionately.
At Teeling in Dublin, single pot still ac-
counts for 40% of total production, with the
remainder devoted to single malt and experi-
mental mashbills. Its single pot still is a mix
of 3 and 4 year old whiskeys, both equal parts
malted and unmalted barley. “The final re-
lease was a balance of American virgin oak,
first-fill bourbon barrels, and sherry casks—
first-fill oloroso hogsheads,” says Chasko.
“That got it right, offering the familiarity of
sherry and American oak influence.” Teeling
is also aging some single pot still distillate in
tawny port casks, which Chasko describes as
“very different,” and perhaps someday des-
tined to become a 10 year old expression.
In Connacht Province in the northwest, The
Shed Distillery in the town of Drumshanbo
laid down its first whiskey in December 2014.
Built inside an abandoned jam factory, The
Shed has three pot stills pump-
ing out whiskey. Its first single
pot still expression was released
notes of butterscotch and crème brûlée. Red last Christmas and sold out
Spot, a 15 year old, has the marsala wine cask quickly. “For us, it’s about re-
from Sicily as its influencer. It offers sweetness specting the heritage of single
and greater depth from its extra age, and lay- pot still,” says owner P.J. Rigney,
ered notes of baked apple, mango, and black whose inspiration is the work
cherry, with confectionery punch. done by Irish Distillers. “This is
Powers, with its Powers John’s Lane and a style that needs time—about
Three Swallow expressions, is the boldest of five years, in our view—to reach
the group. It’s classically viscous, earthy, and its sweet spot. From there it will
spicy, but relies less on the cask and lets the keep getting better and better.”
distillate do the talking. “You tend to find Rigney won’t reveal how much
more refill barrel and very little sherry con- unmalted barley is in the mash-
tribution here—to keep the earthy, spicy bill (30% is the minimum), but
distillate style in the whiskey—true to the notes that it contains 5% oats, as
Powers way,” says Nation. Top: John Power & Son at the height of Irish whiskey, c. 1890. permitted by law.
The Midleton expressions, meanwhile, are Above: Brian Nation (right) succeeded the legendary Barry Out on the Dingle Peninsula
the pinnacle of single pot still elegance. Midle- Crockett (left) as Irish Distillers master distiller in 2013. on Ireland’s west coast, Dingle
ton Barry Crockett Legacy is a selection of pot Distillery is led by master dis-
still whiskeys that have been matured in first- barley, will need to mature for a few more tiller Graham Coul, formerly of Glen Moray
fill American barrels, with a subtle contribu- years, but Scully says its intense barley flavor Distillery in Scotland, who oversees a pro-
tion from pot-still distillate matured in virgin and maritime character are already discern- gram of both single malt and pot still produc-
American oak, producing notes of vanilla ible. “You can taste it in the make, and that’s tion. Dingle filled its first casks in December
sweetness and clean oak. Midleton Very Rare going to make the whiskey special,” he says. 2012, and released its first whiskey three
LOWER RIGHT: JOHN SHEEHAN PHOTOGRAPHY

Dair Ghaelach is finished in virgin Irish oak. “The maritime notes will come through more years later. Its Dingle single pot still expres-
Midleton Very Rare blended whiskey is an with aging in our maturation warehouses, sion, which has had three releases thus far, is
annual release that includes a grain whiskey which are also right by the ocean.” matured in PX sherry casks.
component, but relies heavily on pot still whis- Like many start-ups, Clonakilty is initially On the outskirts of Tullamore, about an
key, lending it luxurious flavors and ranking it offering whiskeys sourced from other Irish hour west of Dublin, Tullamore D.E.W. is
among the most collectible Irish whiskeys. distilleries. The Clonakilty labels feature the making single pot still, single malt, and grain
curious illustration of a minke whale fin, in whiskeys. The malt and pot still distillery
The New Pioneers tribute to the whales that play offshore, migrat- began production in 2014, the grain distillery
The seeds are being sown—in some cases ing away in the winter but returning in spring. in 2017. Thus far, the liquid is being utilized to
literally—for a new generation of single pot The locals know these creatures by their tail fin support Tullamore D.E.W.’s existing blends
still whiskey makers. In County Cork, markings, and have even given them names. and single malts. “Pot still is an essential part
Clonakilty’s single pot still whiskey, with its The oldest whale is Boomerang, and he’s been a of the Tullamore D.E.W. blend, so it’s hugely
mashbill of 60% unmalted and 40% malted visitor for seventeen years. “He comes back to important to us,” says master blender Brian

Best of Breed
Single pot still whiskeys to try now
96 Redbreast 12 year old
40% • $60
Toffee, toasted marshmallow, banana
bread, maple syrup, and a hint of toasted
coconut.
46% • $304
Spice, dark cherry, and berries, with a
delightful wood influence throughout.
95 Midleton Barry Crockett
Legacy 46% • $258
Caramel, dates, treacle, pot still spice,
fleeting green apple, vanilla, and
cinnamon.
94 Powers John’s Lane

12 year old 46% • $91
Slightly fermented Bramley apples,
oolong tea, green banana, spices.
93 Kilbeggan Single Pot Still
Master distiller Alex Chasko (left) crafts single 43% • $45
pot still whiskey at Teeling in Dublin (above). Orange, apricot, cake, vanilla, and fizzing
pot still spices.
The Shed, Kilbeggan’s pot still expression 93 Redbreast Lustau 46% • $69
contains a small amount of oats—this time Fruit, oak, walnut, spices, red berries,
2.5% of the total—in tribute to the old styles. apples, and marzipan.
All across Ireland, single pot still is thriv-
92 Powers Three Swallow
ing. At Walsh Whiskey, it’s the backbone of 43.2% • $52
the company’s Writers’ Tears and The Irish- Marmalade, sugared almonds, golden
man blends. Owner Bernard Walsh, who sold barley, citrus, green apple, and spice.
his stake in Royal Oak Distillery last year,
now spends his time visiting distilleries and
46% • $108
sampling whiskeys to source for his brands Silky, with oak spice, nutty toffee, fig,
and is currently developing a single pot still black raspberry, chocolate, and chewy
expression of Writers’ Tears. In a broader nougat.
sense, he sees its general proliferation as a
longer-term prospect. “Single pot still is the
91 Green Spot 40% • $66
Vanilla, butterscotch, and creamy rice
jewel in the crown for Irish whiskey, but it pudding sprinkled with nutmeg.
will take five to ten years for it to really start
shining,” says Walsh. 91 Green Spot Chateau
Slane Distillery in County Meath, north of
Montelena 46% • $95
Ripe red apple, damson, zested orange,
Dublin, filled its first barrel in 2018, and is
and lemon envelop pot still spices.
Kinsman. “We’ve been filling single pot still laying down single malt, single pot still, and
and single malt for the current range, but with single grain whiskeys. While it waits for them 91 Red Spot 46% • $140
LOWER LEFT: PATRICK BOLGER PHOTOGRRAPHY
an eye toward new possibilities. We’ve been to mature, it’s offering Slane whiskey, a Cooked apple and blackberry with brown
sugar, cherry, hazelnut, and allspice.
trying different things every year, and we’ll sourced blend. But founder Alex Conyngham
start working with the inventory over the is a true believer in single pot still. “Give us 91 Teeling Single Pot Still
next few years to create potential new expres- time, and single pot still will become the Irish 46% • $65
sions.” Those most probably will include a equivalent of Scottish single malt,” he says. Apple, pear, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper,
Tullamore D.EW. single pot still whiskey. Conyngham understands that whiskey time ground almond, and caramel.
Just a fifteen-minute drive from Tullamore is very different from real time. It could take a 90 Glendalough Single Cask Pot
D.E.W. is Kilbeggan Distillery, which recently few more years to fully blossom, and it’s un- Still (Batch 1) 43% • $55
released a single pot still expression—its first likely that single pot still Irish whiskey will Creamy, with caramel, dried apple, clove,
since the place was shuttered in 1953 and then ever resume its once-overwhelming domi- and pepper.
revived in 2007. Inspiration was taken from nance of the whisky world. But from a place of 89 Yellow Spot 46% • $105
an old book dating back to the 19th century, near extinction, it appears ready to thrive, and Sweet, with nutmeg, clove, bitter nut oils,
which offers more than 100 recipes. As with delight whiskey drinkers once again. and burnt toast.

WHISKEY
IMPOSTERS
That tasty whiskey
you’re enjoying may
not be what it appears
BY CHARLES K. COWDERY
PHOTOGRAPH BY JEFF HARRIS
D AVID LANDRUM is the founder of

Two James Spirits, a small distillery
in Detroit. His buddy, Jacques
Driscoll, runs Johnny Noodle King, a
nearby ramen shop. Driscoll was planning a
bar program for the restaurant and asked
Landrum if he might create a whiskey to
complement his umami-rich broths.
“I was an art student,” says Lan-
drum. “I’ve always been pushed
by creativity. I like to keep mak-
ing new things.”
He had been drinking a lot
of Asian teas and lapsang
souchong, a Chinese smoked
tea, came to mind. It was a
source of inspiration. Landrum
infused a blend of corn and rye
whiskeys with lapsang souchong and
two other Asian teas. He calls it Johnny
Smoking Gun. Driscoll loved it. Both
the noodle shop and Two James’s
tasting room serve it in cocktails
and also neat with a “broth back.”
Interesting? Yes. Unique? Sure.
Innovative? Absolutely! But is it
whiskey?
That question sits at an intersection of art,
craft, tradition, culture, law, commerce,
imagination, taste—and probably a few
other things.

Two James Spirits founder David
Landrum (right) created Johnny
Smoking Gun to complement the
fare at the noodle shop owned by
his buddy Jacques Driscoll (left).
But Is It Whiskey? styles and categories to discern. Bourbon is in the whisky. It’s a flavor component.”
According to the law that governs spirits different from rye. Blended scotch is different Julio’s has created a flavored whiskey sec-
labeling, no, Johnny Smoking Gun is not from single malt scotch. Bourbon is different tion, adjacent to the flavored vodka aisle and
whiskey. It, and other products you might from straight bourbon, which is different from around the corner from the whiskey section.
perceive as whiskey can be thought of more bottled in bond bourbon. Some styles of whis- “We set ourselves up as a whiskey store,” says
accurately as beverages that contain whiskey, like non-straight rye, wheat, malt, and Maloney. “Plenty of stuff we sell is not my
key—along with something else. Depending corn whiskeys, are allowed to include a small cup of tea. That’s why we do a lot of tastings
on the product’s exact composition, it may be amount of added flavoring and/or coloring. here, so the consumer can decide what they
Everyone says whiskey is popular again want to spend their money on.” With its clear
because drinkers crave authenticity, but areas for different whiskey styles, as well as
We want innovation and we many whiskey-esque products can be confus-
ing to the point of deception. Will all these
flavored whiskey, Julio’s is helping its cus-
tomers more easily explore their preferences.
want authenticity. Don’t tell us new whiskey variations prove overwhelming, “I was a purist, a curmudgeon, when this
or displace traditional products on the shelf? [flavored whiskey trend] all started,” says
we can’t have both. What happens to authenticity when whiskey Larry Rice, owner of Louisville’s Silver Dol-
products are loaded up with added flavors lar, a bar and restaurant that specializes in
deemed a liqueur, a flavored whiskey, a and sweeteners? bourbon and other Kentucky whiskeys. It has
distilled spirits specialty, or one of several We want innovation and we want authen- about 600 in stock, including vintage prod-
other official classifications. But the label can ticity. Don’t tell us we can’t have both. ucts that are no longer being made. Rice
prove confusing. A distilled spirits specialty doesn’t think finished and flavored whiskeys
made using “rye whiskey” might list those Blurred Lines are good for the category, even if they are
words prominently, landing the bottle on the “My main view is, we’re trying to get more getting more people to drink whiskey. “It’s a
shelf among other whiskeys, even if it’s not people to the category, so we’re blurring the bit disingenuous,” he says. “The consumer
technically qualified as one at all. lines,” says Ryan Maloney, owner of Julio’s isn’t going to learn the nuances. I think it
One of the key promises of the craft spirits Liquors in Westborough, Massachusetts. dilutes the category,” meaning the drinker
movement is innovation: new ideas, new “Whiskey is hot so producers use the word to may not understand the difference between
flavors, and new methods. Drinkers must like get more attention.” As Maloney points out, whiskey and whiskey with something else
ERIKA RICE
all this innovation. The products are selling, flavoring whiskey is not new. “Scotch has added. “Then again, if you make cocktails, it’s
and large distillers are copying them. been using barrel finishes for years. Also a little hypocritical to say you can’t add any-
Whiskey is already complicated, with many peat—it’s a way to get a different flavor going thing to bourbon. Maybe [these

WHAT IN THE WORLD IS…?
S everal styles of whiskey—
including blended, blended
straight, and non-straight rye,
NOT-QUITE WHISKEY UNMASKED
wheat, malt, and corn
whiskeys—may include up to
2.5% “harmless coloring/
T
flavoring/blending materials”
hese products
without disclosing it on the
use words like
label. Beyond those designa-
whiskey,
tions, however, there are
bourbon, and rye
additional types that often
prominently on
look like whiskey on the shelf.
their labels. Some
Distilled Spirits Specialty also display the

names of well-
[Includes Whiskey Specialties]
known whiskey
Generally, any class and/or
brands; however,
type of distilled spirits that
none of these are
contain or are treated with
straight whiskey.
flavoring and/or coloring
That doesn’t mean
Angel’s Envy Basil Hayden’s Evan Williams FEW Cold Cut
materials and/or nonstandard Straight Bourbon Finished Dark Rye Honey Bourbon
they’re inferior or
blending or treating materials in Port Wine Barrels
you shouldn’t LOOKS LIKE LOOKS LIKE LOOKS LIKE
or processes. This includes LOOKS LIKE Rye Bourbon Bourbon
consider drinking Bourbon
bourbons and straight IT’S REALLY IT’S REALLY IT’S REALLY
them, but that they
American whiskeys that are IT’S REALLY Whiskey specialty Liqueur Whiskey specialty
may display flavors Whiskey specialty
finished, or partly matured, in Kentucky straight Kentucky straight Bourbon diluted to
well outside what’s Kentucky straight
a secondary barrel such as a rye blended with bourbon blended proof with cold-
normal for conven- bourbon finished in
sherry, port, or rum cask. Canadian rye and with honey liqueur. brew coffee instead
tional whiskey. port barrels.
port-style wine. of water.
Flavored Whiskey
Whiskey with natural flavoring
materials, with or without the
addition of sugar, bottled at
not less than 30% alcohol by
volume (60 proof). The name
of the predominant flavor has
to be on the label—for
example, Cherry-Flavored
Whiskey. Wine may be added,
but if it exceeds 2.5% by
volume of the finished
product, the information must
be included on the label.
Liqueur
Flavored spirits containing
not less than 2.5% by weight
sugar, dextrose, levulose Heritage Distilling Oak & Eden Southern Comfort Tommy Bahama Two James Spirits
(fructose), or a combination. Co. BSB (Brown Bourbon & Spire LOOKS LIKE
American whiskey
Rye Johnny Smoking
It’s made by mixing or
redistilling any type of spirits
Sugar Bourbon) LOOKS LIKE
Bourbon IT’S REALLY
LOOKS LIKE
Rye whiskey
Gun
LOOKS LIKE Whiskey specialty LOOKS LIKE
with fruits, flowers, plants (or Bourbon IT’S REALLY IT’S REALLY American whiskey
their pure juices), or other Whiskey specialty Spirit whiskey with Whiskey specialty
IT’S REALLY added natural IT’S REALLY
natural flavoring materials, or Flavored whiskey Bourbon finished Rye whiskey Flavored whiskey
flavors and caramel
with extracts derived from Bourbon with “in bottle” with a blended with A blend of corn
spiral-cut piece of color. Tommy Bahama
infusions, percolation, or natural brown and rye whiskeys
maceration of such materials. sugar and cinna- toasted oak. rum. infused with Asian
mon flavors added. teas.

whiskey-based products] need another cate- Caribbean Reserve is a limited release, but whiskey with cold brew coffee.” “There’s
gory just for clarity.” Dark Rye is a permanent addition to the Basil nothing else. It’s virtually all bourbon; the
Bob Zacharias, who runs the whiskey pro- Hayden’s lineup. Marks says it took several coffee is relatively minimal,” says Hletko.
gram at Chicago’s Fountainhead bar and tries to get the profile right. “The port tended He does worry that super sugary-sweet
restaurant, is a supporter of whiskey special- to get overpowered by the Kentucky rye,” he products will cause confusion among drink-
ties. “I think overall they are good for whis- explains. “The Canadian rye softened it out, ers because they are so different from au-
key,” he says. “I’ve certainly gotten some helped the port shine.” thentic whiskey. Brands like Jack Daniel’s,
people into bourbon by trying Angel’s Envy A whiskey drinker would be forgiven for Jim Beam, Wild Turkey, and Evan Williams
first. Where it can get confusing is if someone thinking that in purchasing Dark Rye, they have all enjoyed success with honey-flavored
tries Basil Hayden’s Dark Rye [which in- are getting American rye whiskey—but it whiskeys bearing their names. All are very
cludes added port-style wine and is bottled at does not come close to the definition, or taste, sweet, as are cinnamon-flavored whiskeys
40% ABV] and then wants to have a go at with a syrupy character and wine flavors that such as Fireball and Jack Daniel’s Tennessee
barrel-proof Stagg. Yikes! That’s where the wouldn’t naturally be found in straight rye. Fire. In fact, it’s hard to taste whiskey in any
retailer comes in, to educate staff and con- Marks explains that the goal is to entice of these low-proof, heavily flavored spirits.
The labeling rules set out and enforced by
the U.S. Treasury Department’s Alcohol and
Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) are of
only limited help. There are nuances and
complexities to these regulations that can
escape translation by even the most dedi-
cated consumers. What, for example, do the
words “spirit whisky with natural flavors and
caramel color” mean? If you look it up, you
will find that TTB defines spirit whisky as “a
mixture of neutral spirits and not less than
5% on a proof gallon basis whisky.” That
means a product that is 95% vodka can still
use the word “whiskey” on its label. In fact,
Southern Comfort, which has long been
marketed as a whiskey substitute and an
approachable spirit for newcomers to whis-
key, qualifies as a spirit whisky. It is very
sweet, flavored with fruit and spice, and only
tastes like whiskey if you truly don’t know
what whiskey tastes like.
sumers on the differences between products drinkers to step outside their comfort zone, It can be argued that Southern Comfort
and flavor profiles.” flavor-wise, but with the reassurance that and similar products, like Yukon Jack, a fla-
Dark Rye and other recent Basil Hayden’s they’re getting the same quality found in vored Canadian whisky, and Jeremiah Weed,
releases have many people scratching their other Basil Hayden’s releases. “Part of the joy a bourbon-based liqueur, have deliberately
heads. Introduced a quarter-century ago as is trying out and finding new things,” he says. confused whiskey drinkers for decades. Go-
one of four bourbons in Jim Beam’s Small ing back further, America has a sad history of
Batch Collection, (which also includes Book- The Spice of Life compound whiskey, where a variety of flavor-
er’s, Baker’s, and Knob Creek), the name Basil Marks believes that whiskey’s future is in this ings and colorings, some quite toxic, were
Hayden’s has long indicated a Kentucky sort of differentiation and pushing the used to fashion ersatz whiskey from neutral
straight bourbon that’s distinguished by a boundaries. Paul Hletko, owner and distiller at spirit. That prompted passage of the first
high-rye recipe and an approachable 40% FEW Spirits in the Chicago suburb of Evan- national consumer protection laws more than
ABV. According to Jon Marks, marketing ston, Illinois, agrees that innovative products a century ago. Despite the best efforts of TTB
director for the Small Batch Collection, that can be good for the whiskey category if they’re regulation, category confusion has always
approachability made Basil Hayden’s a natu- done the right way. He makes a spirit called been a part of the whiskey world.
ral fit for products such as Dark Rye, which is Cold Cut, which is bourbon that has been Back in Detroit, Landrum says he wasn’t
Kentucky straight rye whiskey blended with reduced from barrel proof to bottle proof not trying to upset the whiskey cart with Johnny
Canadian rye and port-style wine, and Carib- with water, but with cold-brew coffee. Smoking Gun. “It happened organically with
bean Reserve Rye, a blend of Kentucky “I’d like to think our innovations are making the partnership” with the noodle shop, he
straight rye, Canadian rye, and rum. “Drink- the category stronger,” says Hletko. “To me, says. “Is this confusing the marketplace?
ers are looking for new things, looking to the important thing is clarity and honesty. Tell Maybe for the uneducated consumer—I could
expand what they expect,” says Marks. “Basil people what is in the bottle. When the whis- see where it might be confusing. There are a
JEFF HARRIS
doesn’t have to only be a bourbon. It can be a key drinker is purchasing a bottle, they ought lot of classifications already.”
platform for other interesting, unique expres- to get what they think they’re getting.” Cold Then he puts on his artist hat. “But variety
sions that live up to the spirit of the brand.” Cut is described on the label as “FEW bourbon is the spice of life, right?”

Island
Of
BY GAVIN D SM IT H
ALL SCOTLAND’S many islands,

few serve up such a heady blend of
heritage, romance, folklore, and
dramatic beauty as Skye, “the Misty
Isle,” or Eilean a’ Cheo in Gaelic.
Despite measuring only 50 miles
across, Skye is actually the largest
of the Inner Hebrides, boasting a
spectacular coastline of sea lochs
and peninsulas. Of most importance
to whisky lovers, Skye is the gate-
way to three whisky distilleries. ANDREW LLOYD/ALAMY

A lone hiker stands at the
base of the Old Man of Storr,
peering out over Skye’s
primordial landscape.

Catch of the day
The Fairy Pools
The Three Chimneys Neist Point Lighthouse
TOP LEFT: ROOM THE AGENCY / ALAMY; BOTTOM RIGHT: ARTERRA

The most well-known distillery is Talisker, with the island’s tourism management organi- but not quite so stunning when shared with
PICTURE LIBRARY / ALAMY; OTHERS THIS PAGE: JACK HARDING

producer of rugged single malts recognized zation Skye Connect, has launched a market- busloads of eager admirers.
for the way it captures the spray of the sea ing campaign, #skyetime (skye-time.com), This is not to say you should forfeit the op-
and delivers a distinctive peppery spice. which advises visitors to “stay longer, see less, portunity to visit key sights (see sidebar), in-
If there is a drawback to this beautiful experience more.” It is generally good advice cluding Kilt Rock; the Old Man of Storr, a
island, it is that we are not alone in realizing and, combined with some specific strategies, spectacular pinnacle of stone; the crystal-clear
its many charms. The intimate island now will ensure a positive experience. Fairy Pools on the River Brittle; the vast an-
attracts an outsized 650,000 visitors annually, The island capital of Portree tends to be a cient landslip of the Quiraing; and Neist Point
often resulting in overcrowding as narrow bustling place most of the time, as does the Lighthouse. But in order to avoid the crowds,
roads are blocked by large motorhomes and village of Broadford, further to the south, you’ll do best to visit early in the morning, with
parking lots overflow. However, with which offers a number of hotels and restau- late in the day the second-best alternative.
thoughtful planning, a visit to Skye will still rants that feature an abundance of locally For the whisky enthusiast, the most allur-
be a delight: a destination of meals, vistas, caught seafood, making it hard to go wrong. ing place to experience on Skye is Talisker
and whiskies the likes of which can be found The most photogenic tourist destinations Distillery, located at an idyllic spot on the
nowhere else. have become must-sees for the Instagram outskirts of the village of Carbost, in the west
Recognizing the fact that Skye faces issues generation, keen to bag and share their expe- of the island, surrounded by hills and with
relating to overcrowding at times, the national riences of these places. They are popular for stunning views across Loch Harport. Along
tourism body Visit Scotland, in association good reason: they are all visually stunning, with the magnificent Dunvegan Castle (see

Flora Macdonald’s Grave Kinloch Lodge
Talisker Distillery Isle of Raasay Distillery
Must-See on Skye sidebar), Talisker is Skye’s Taliskers are also on offer, and even Talisker
most popular paid attraction, welcoming “It really is incredible truffles, if your tooth is sweet.
75,000 to 90,000 people each year according
to senior site manager Diane Farrell.
to see people making Although the distillery was established by
brothers Hugh and Kenneth MacAskill in
“It really is incredible to see people mak- pilgrimages from all 1830, most of the present production build-
ing pilgrimages from all over the world to ings were erected following a serious fire in
over the world to come
BOTTOM LEFT: ANGUS MCCOMISKEY / ALAMY
come here,” says Farrell. Booking tours in November 1960. The replacement stillhouse—
advance is essential, except at the quietest
here.” —Diane Farrell, Talisker now capable of turning out 3.3 million liters of
TOP LEFT: LOOP IMAGES LTD / ALAMY;
times during winter. As long as you’ve made pure alcohol (lpa) per year—was equipped
the trek, we suggest opting for the Talisker with five stills that were exact replicas of the
Masterclass Tour ($58, two hours) which new expressions released during the past few originals, and these stills give an insight into
includes a tasting of six expressions. years (see Taste of Talisker sidebar). the character of the single malt once referred
More than three million bottles of Talisker Talisker boasts a stylish tasting bar, where to as “the lava of the Cuillins.” Farrell ex-
were sold in 2018, making it among the most you can sample their full range of single plains: “Our wash stills are tall, with a unique
popular single malts from international spir- malts, including the current distillery exclu- bend in the lyne arm used to reflux heavier
its producer Diageo, second only to Single- sive bottling, selected by the staff and avail- elements back into the still, and the way in
ton. Talisker enjoys a devoted following, and able for purchase only at the distillery. Do which we run our worm tubs ensures that
the whisky has seen a significant number of grab one, or two. Two different flights of there is minimal copper contact.”

“This all adds to the complexity of Talisker peat, sourced from Aberdeenshire, not me- Owned by Edinburgh-based R&B Distillers,
spirit and is when the signature peppery/ dicinal Laphroaig style. The height and width Isle of Raasay Distillery has an annual capac-
spicy notes make their appearance,” she con- of our stills was partly governed by the build- ity of 200,000 lpa, with Alisdair Day and Bill
tinues. “At Talisker, many will agree, we’ve ing they were going into, but also they were Dobbie at the helm. Day notes, “We filled our
managed to capture a lot of the flavor and designed to give the kind of spirit we wanted. first cask on September 14, 2017 and went
character of our environment through our They’re quite short and round, as we’re look- into full production five days a week on Sep-
production process. Talisker imbibers will ing for a pretty robust whisky here. We could tember 27th of that year.”
tend to remark on how they can smell and only make a maximum 600,000 lpa even if we The pair of stills fabricated by Tuscany’s
taste our ‘made by the sea’ character with worked three shifts all the time, and we actu- Frilli displays a certain Italian flair. As Day
every sip.” For anyone who has sensed a ally have a day shift and a night shift.” puts it, “I like to think that Forsyths makes
whisper of the sea or the rugged outdoors in Unlike many scotch distilleries that tend to the Rolls-Royce of stills, and Frilli is the Fer-
sipping Talisker, a visit to Skye will only bring champion a single veteran master distiller, rari. Very stylish! Our setup also gives us
these perceptions into ever-sharper focus. Torabhaig relies on nine distillers. All are potential to produce different styles of spirit.
For almost two centuries, Talisker could young and eager locals, who are being trained We make unpeated spirit and spirit from malt
claim to be the only legal distillery on Skye. and supported in furthering their formal peated to 40 to 55 ppm. We’re doing approxi-
Finally, in 2017 it was joined by Torabhaig, education through programs like the Institute mately 50:50 through 2020. We’re aiming for
Gaelic for ‘the hill above the bay.’ Torabhaig is of Brewing & Distilling’s Diploma in Distill- a spirit that’s not too heavy, with a degree of
located in a converted and expanded historical ing. “Nobody in the distilling team has ever elegance, with dark fruity notes encouraged
farmstead on the Sleat (pronounced ‘slate’) worked in a distillery before,” says Mathieson. by long fermentations.”
Peninsula, in the southwest of the island. Beginning in July, the first selection of just Raasay is going down a slightly unorthodox
Sir Iain Noble, one-time merchant banker, 100 casks will be made for an initial bottling, path to create a house style for the future. They
Skye landowner, and passionate advocate of due to hit U.S. shelves in October, and la- are filling both their unpeated and peated
distillates into three different cask types:
Woodford Reserve rye barrels, virgin American
If there is a drawback oak barrels with a high level of charring, and
to this beautiful island, Bordeaux red wine casks. The resulting six
permutations will give Raasay many options
it is that we are not for blending, with their first single malt release
scheduled to debut April 2021.
alone in realizing its Prior to routinely producing these six vari-
many charms. ations, Raasay made a one-off peated expres-
sion, Day explains. “The first release has been
THIS PAGE: STEVEN SCOTT TAYLOR / ALAMY; OPPOSITE BOTTOM RIGHT: JONATHAN COHEN / ALAMY
peated to 48 ppm, and we took a narrow
beled as distilled in 2017. Peating levels have spirit cut. We filled it into bourbon barrels,
subsequently been increased from 55-60 and it’s being finished in Bordeaux wine
phenol parts per million (ppm) to 70-80 casks. We’ve put 40 casks aside, and advance
Cars jam the parking area for the Fairy Pools. ppm, and spirit is being filled into a wider sales are going very well. It will be in the
range of cask types. Mathieson intends to States soon after its Christmas 2020 launch.”
the Gaelic language, identified the dilapi- bottle such batches of the most precocious As at Torabhaig, the distillery provides a
dated farm dating from the 1820s as the ideal casks until the time arrives for the initial valuable opportunity for local employment.
site for his proposed “Gaelic-speaking” dis- age-statement release: a Torabhaig 10 year According to Day, “More than 20 of the is-
tillery; sadly he died in 2010, before the proj- old single malt. land’s 160 inhabitants are employed here. It’s
ect could come to fruition. Starting in 2020, Torabhaig also plans to had a hugely positive impact on the place.”
With planning permission in place, Moss- offer a more in-depth tour in addition to the Last fall, Isle of Raasay Distillery was
burn Distillers Ltd. grabbed the baton and current standard version ($13), along with awarded Tourism Destination of The Year at
committed to seeing Torabhaig to comple- whisky dinners. Keep an eye on their website the inaugural Scottish Whisky Awards, in rec-
tion. Starting in 2013, the derelict property for details. ognition of the way it cares for visitors. Distill-
was revived with new buildings and a visitor To reach the third and final distillery you ery tours ($13) and Whisky and Chocolate tours
center in the original style, along with distill- must cross Skye to the east coast and the tiny ($19) are available, and pre-booking is essential
ing equipment—including a 1.5-ton semi- crofting community of Sconser, located at the for Sundays, but advisable regardless.
lauter mashtun, eight Douglas fir washbacks, head of Loch Sligachan. From here, it’s a In Raasay, Torabhaig, and Talisker, the
and a pair of Forsyths stills, named for origi- 25-minute car ferry crossing to the neighbor- Hebrides has a cluster of three excellent
nal visionaries Sir Iain and Lady Noble. ing small island of Raasay, where illicit distill- distillery experiences to offer: an iconic vet-
The first spirit from Torabhaig flowed in ing tool place until around 1850. Today it is eran, and the optimism of youth, as the two
January 2017 and Mossburn CEO Neil Ma- home to legal whisky making at Isle of Raa- newcomers step up. Blend this with superb
thieson says, “I had an idea of what a non-Is- say Distillery, constructed adjoining the for- scenery, historic attractions, and great places
lay ‘island’ whisky should be. We didn’t want mer Borodale House, which now serves as a to eat and drink, and you appreciate the old
to try to be Talisker, so went for a higher visitor center and provides bed & breakfast island saying that “Skye is conclusive proof
peating level than Talisker, and it’s an earthy accommodations. that, sometimes, God was just showing off.”

Torabhaig Distillery
Fly-fishing
Portree
The Mealt Waterfall at

Kilt Rock. Center right,
Mitchell Partridge,
Kinloch Lodge’s
“gillie,”will guide your
fly-fishing adventure.
GUIDE TO SPECTACULAR SKYE
Must-See Old Man of Storr, a striking
pinnacle of rock that serves as a
On Skye landmark for miles around. The
45-minute walk is suitable for
Distilleries Dunvegan Castle anyone of average fitness.
This has been the ancestral home isleofskye.com
Talisker
of the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod for
Carbost, Isle of Skye The Fairy Pools
800 years and is the oldest
malts.com Perfect for a visit while taking in
continuously inhabited castle in
Torabhaig Scotland. According to legend, Talisker Distillery, the Fairy Pools
Teangue, Sleat, Isle their magical Fairy Flag, dating are located off the road from
of Skye from the 4th century, ensures the Carbost to Glenbrittle, and
torabhaig.com Macleod clan is never defeated in comprise a series of waterfalls
battle. dunvegancastle.com and pools filled with crystal-clear
Isle of Raasay blue water on the Brittle River.
Borodale House Flora MacDonald’s Memorial, Reaching the first pool involves a
Isle of Raasay Kilmuir Cemetery walk of about one and a half
raasaydistillery.com This site is situated six miles north miles. Great photo opportunities,
of the ferry port of Uig. According and a chance for a spot of wild
to legend, Bonnie Prince Charlie, swimming if you’re feeling brave!
disguised as a girl, fled “over the isleofskye.com
sea to Skye” after the failed
Jacobite rising of 1745/46,
The Quiraing
Trotternish is the gift that keeps
assisted by local Flora MacDon-
on giving, for it is also home to
ald. The Prince is said to have
the Quiraing, spectacular rock
gifted the recipe for the re-
formations which have been
nowned Drambuie whisky liqueur
described as “Britain’s biggest
to Captain John MacKinnon as a
landslide.” This hike is longer and
reward for his protection.
slightly more difficult than those
Torabhaig Distillery theskyeguide.com
to the Old Man of Storr or the
Kilt Rock and the Mealt Fairy Pools, being approximately
Waterfall four and one-quarter miles in
Located on the Trotternish length. isleofskye.com
Grave of Flora MacDonald
Peninsula, some ten miles north
The Quiraing Neist Point Lighthouse
of Portree, Kilt Rock is almost
Kilt Rock and Dating back to 1909, Neist Point
300 feet high, with basalt
Mealt Falls Viewpoint Lighthouse is located on the most
columns that resemble a pleated
westerly tip of Skye, near the
A87 kilt. The Mealt Waterfall flows
Old Man of Storr community of Glendale. The
STEIN
spectacularly over the cliffs to the
scenic walk begins from a parking
sea below. theskyeguide.com
COLBOST area about ten and a half miles
GLENDALE Dunvegan Castle The Old Man of Storr from Dunvegan and 30 miles from
DUNVEGAN Three miles from Kilt Rock on the Portree. The relatively easy walk
Neist Point PORTREE
RAASAY Trotternish Peninsula is the is less than one and a half miles
Lighthouse
starting point for a walk to the total. isleofskye.com
PORTNALONG ISLE OF RAASAY
DISTILLERY
TALISKER DISTILLERY
SLIGACHAN A87
A87
Fairy Pools
BOTTOM BENNY MARTY / ALAMY
TORABHAIG
DISTILLERY
INVERNESS
Scotland Aird of Sleat

EDINBURGH
GLASGOW
Dunvegan Castle

Where to Dine splurge! After dinner, enjoy the
superb accommodations at the
and Drink House Over-By, adjoining the
restaurant. threechimneys.co.uk
Stein Inn, Stein
One of Skye’s best bars for Scorrybreac, Portree
whisky lovers, with 130 single Scottish fine dining with an
malts on offer plus excellent local emphasis on local and seasonal
ales, food, and accommodations. produce in elegant, intimate
stein-inn.co.uk surroundings, with views across
Portree harbor. Arguably the best
Seumas’ Bar, Sligachan dining in town. scorrybreac.com
More than 400 single malts are
stocked in this friendly, popular Loch Bay, Stein
bar at the Sligachan Hotel. The Chef/patron Michael Smith’s
micro Cuillin Brewery is situated contemporary Scottish eatery in
right next door. sligachan.co.uk the village of Stein, on the Water-
nish Peninsula. The ‘Fruits de Mer’
Merchant Bar, Portree dinner option is a must for seafood
A cozy bar located in the Bosville lovers. lochbay-restaurant.co.uk
Hotel in the town center, featuring
a decent cocktail list as well as a
wide range of whiskies and gins.
The hotel’s Dulse & Brose
restaurant is also recommended
for its seasonal menu featuring
fresh local produce and seafood.
bosvillehotel.co.uk
The Three Chimneys, Colbost,

Dunvegan
One of Scotland’s most renowned
and awarded restaurants.
High-end, but well worth the Loch Bay
Dunvegan Camping Pods
Where to Stay Taigh Ailean Hotel,

Portnalong
Kinloch Lodge Hotel, Sleat Well-appointed, good value hotel
Located on the impressive Sleat close to Talisker Distillery, with its
Peninsula, with stunning coastal own cask ale and a strong range
views, this is one of Scotland’s of single malts in Munro’s Bar.
leading country-house hotels, taighailean.scot
with an equally impressive
Carter’s Rest Guest House,
Cuillin Hills Hotel restaurant presided over by
Glendale
Michelin-star awarded chef
Situated on the most westerly
Marcello Tully. kinloch-lodge.co.uk
coast of Skye, Carter’s Rest is an
Borodale House, Raasay upscale B&B providing the
You can’t get much closer to perfect opportunity to enjoy
staying in a distillery than this! some solitude—not to mention
Borodale House is a converted spectacular views.
Victorian villa adjoining Isle of cartersrestskye.co.uk
Raasay Distillery, offering luxury
Dunvegan Camping Pods,
accommodations.
Dunvegan
raasaydistillery.com
Camping without the need for
BOTTOM: JACK HARDING
Cuillin Hills Hotel, Portree tents! The wooden self-catering

A former hunting lodge with pods all have en-suite amenities
views over Portree Bay and a and Wi-Fi, and are open year-
well-stocked whisky bar. At the round.The peaceful yet conve-
center of island life but away from nient location offers dining and
the crowds, as it’s set on fifteen shopping within walking distance.
The Three Chimneys acres. cuillinhills-hotel-skye.co.uk dunvegancampingpods.co.uk

When to Go it one of the few opportunities for
more serene outdoor excursions.
Ideally, avoid the peak summer
vacation months of July and
However, some degree of bravery
is required with regard to weather:
Taste of
August. This is when Skye is at its
busiest and most expensive.
winters can be cold and wet, and
daylight hours are more limited.
You are likely to see snow on the
Talisker
While Torabhaig and Raasay
Spring and fall are quieter overall,
and seasonal businesses that you high peaks of the Cuillins. whiskies age, taste Skye in any
may want to visit will be open. Another possible drawback is one of these Taliskers.
Accommodations will also be that some restaurants and craft
easier to find, and cheaper than shops may be closed for the
93 Talisker 18 year old
45.8% • $160
during the most popular tourist winter season. All distilleries
Refined, with oak and fruit
period. These are prime periods featured here operate tours
gumdrops before a knockout
for the average traveler looking year-round, although they tend to
pepper punch on the finish.
for a well-rounded excursion. be less frequent during the winter
months. Accommodations will be 91 Talisker 15 year old 90 Talisker 10 year old
Winter is the off-season and the
(Diageo Special Releases 45.8% • $50
quietest time on the island, making plentiful and offer good value.
2019) 57.3%, •$140 Smoke with sweet pear,
Sweet with fleshy oranges, heather, moor, sweet seaweed,
peaches, cocoa powder, and cracked black pepper.
A bridge built in 1995 connects woodsmoke, and peppery peat. 90 Talisker Distillery
Skye and the mainland. 91 Talisker Select Reserve Exclusive 2019 48% • £95
Game of Thrones House Citrus fruits and sweet peat
Greyjoy 45.8% • $45 smoke, with fruit and oak
Sweet smoke and citrus fruit; spices and a hint of pepper.
peaty, with soft toffee and 89 Talisker Storm 45.8% • $40
light pepper. Sweet and spicy, with cranber-
ries and black currants, peat
smoke, and black pepper.
88 Talisker Distillers Edition
2008 45.8% • $80
Orchard fruits, peat, a mari-
time note, dark chocolate,
dried fruit, and soft smoke.
86 Talisker Port Ruighe
45.8% • £50
Jaffa orange, apricots,
Getting There The vessel in use is the much-

loved Glenachulish, the last
woodsmoke, and dried fruit
from a finish in port pipes.
Although still technically an manually operated turntable ferry
island, Skye has been linked to in Scotland, and visitors have even
the mainland by a road bridge— been known to get married on it!
part of the A87—since 1995. This
replaced the old ferry service
There are no railways on Skye,
with the nearest stations being
Where to Shop building, and also offer informal
whisky and gin tasting events.
between Kyle of Lochalsh and Mallaig (trains from Glasgow), for Whisky Tiny, but lots of goodies to be
Kyleakin and, while convenient, it linking with Mallaig-Armadale discovered. mistybottle.co.uk
LEFT EYE35 SELECT / ALAMY; BOX INSET: PEP MASIP / ALAMY
Pràban na Linne, next to Hotel

does take away some of the sense ferries, and Kyle of Lochalsh,
Eilean Iarmain on the Sleat Isle of Skye Distillers is located on
of adventure and romance with trains from Inverness
Peninsula, is the headquarters and Rathad na Slignich in Portree.
associated with arriving on an (scotrail.co.uk). Bus services are
retail outlet of Gaelic Whiskies Here, the Wilson brothers produce
island by sea. available from Kyle to Skye, and
(gaelicwhisky.com). The compa- Misty Isle gin and Misty Isle vodka.
Crossings ‘over the sea to Skye’ City Link runs coaches from
ny’s brands include the blend Tè The shop stocks the Wilsons’ own
are still possible, however, for both Glasgow and Inverness to
Bheag (“the little lady”), and the products, along with a selection of
incurable romantics, with a Skye (citylink.co.uk). Local buses
blended malt Poit Dhubh (“black whiskies and local beers. Regular
CalMac car ferry running from on the island are operated by
pot”). Pràban na Linne is also Gin Schools are also hosted.
Mallaig on the mainland to Stagecoach (stagecoachbus.com).
home to the Gaelic Gin Still isleofskyedistillers.com
Armadale in southwest Skye Glasgow is the nearest interna-
House, complete with copper pot
(calmac.co.uk), while the small, tional airport to Skye (glasgowair- The Isle of Skye Brewing Com-
still producing Uisge Lusac gin.
privately run, and characterful port.com), and requires up to a pany operates a brewery and
Glenelg Ferry operates between six-hour drive to the island. The The Misty Bottle is located in the shop on the pier at the northern
Glenelg and Kylerhea on Skye closest local airport is Inverness former post office of Breakish. ferry terminal of Uig. Don’t leave
(skyeferry.co.uk). Using the latter (invernessairport.co.uk), which is Proprietors Gordon and Fiona the island without sampling a pint
will, however, lengthen your a two-and-a-half-hour drive from manage to squeeze a remarkable of Tarasgeir, brewed using
journey time significantly: it only Portree. Both airports offer range of whiskies, gins, and a peat-smoked malt from Ardmore
runs between Easter and October. multiple rental car options. Scottish beer cave into the small Distillery. skyeale.com Q

Craft whiskey
“ Folks in the craft spirits industry
are looking to make differ- gets creative with
entiated products,” says
Dave Green, president and CEO of Skagit
Valley Malting in Washington. “You can’t do
help from an army
that with commodity ingredients.” Green
supports small-scale distillers, valuing flavor
over yield, with locally grown grains like
of artisans
BY LIZA WEISSTUCH
Obsidian, an exotic barley variety originally
PORTRAIT BY PETER GARRITANO
from Egypt, and Skagit white club wheat,
introduced to the Pacific Northwest from
Spain in the 1700s.
Green’s customers include forward-think-
ing whiskey makers like Westland and Cop-
perworks, distillers who look upon every
aspect of production, including ingredients,
mashing, distilling, and aging, with fresh
eyes. For them, each step represents an op-
portunity to distinguish themselves from the
status quo, and these are some of the crafts-
people that make it possible.
The Builder of Barrels

HEIDI KORB
Black Swan Cooperage founder and
co-owner, Park Rapids, Minn.
Heidi Korb can’t remember a time when she
wasn’t listening to her dad talk about oak or
watching him build barrels. The second-gen-
eration cooper co-owns Black Swan Cooper-
age, which she opened in 2009 under the
tutelage of her father, Russ Karasch, a cooper
of 30 years who continues to work with his
daughter. Among his innovations is the
It Takes
patented Honey Comb stave. His Honey
Comb Barrels and Honey Comb Barrel
Alternative, a wood insert, are imprinted
with a honeycomb pattern that increases the
wood’s surface area, thus facilitating wood
extraction and accelerating maturation. Even
a
Black Swan’s standard barrel is impressed
Village
with a cross-groove for similar effect.
Tattersall Distilling in Minneapolis, Wiggly
Bridge Distillery in Maine, and Far North
Spirits in Minnesota are distillers taking
advantage of Karasch’s invention.
Now, with the proliferation of the industry
and the ensuing, much-talked-about barrel
shortages over the past few years, more coo-
perages have opened in the U.S. to serve the
growing boutique distilling industry. Mem-
bership in the Associated Cooperage

COOPER HEROES
Heidi Korb and her father,
Russ Karasch, provide craft
distillers with custom barrels
from Black Swan Cooperage.
Industries of America has grown from 59 no larger than a New York City apartment, practices and fire codes. “The biggest chal-
industry companies in 2008 to 78 in 2019. just 300 to 500 square feet. “Microdistill- lenge is helping not only distillers, but also
Black Swan’s footprint in the American coo- eries become more complicated than, say, those regulating them,” Scott says. “Distill-
pering industry is slight—they make some- Beam [Distillery],” he says. eries suffer from over-regulation. Many rules
where between 5,000 and 6,000 barrels each Seven years ago, when Moore was design- designate what they make as something that’s
year—whereas the colossal Independent ing commercial properties in Colorado, the not alcohol.” At sea level, a solution of alcohol
Stave Co. can make over 2,000 a day. last thing he imagined himself doing was that’s above 20% alcohol by volume is consid-
The challenges of running a small cooperage meeting with fire marshals and city counsel- ered a flammable liquid, regulated similarly
are not unlike those a behemoth operation ors throughout the U.S. for the singular pur- to petroleum, according to Scott.
faces, but being small has appeal for craft dis- pose of helping people make small-batch Delicately balancing art and mathematics,
tillers looking for specific barrel traits or inno- spirits. Today, Scott and Colleen regularly Colleen and Scott agree that the most excit-
vative ways to distinguish their whiskeys. “Our converse about flammable liquid codes, coming part of their job is problem solving as they
size gives us the ability to customize more. We pliance regulations, fire ratings, and zoning try to create facilities that not only adhere to
don’t make one standard one-size-fits-all prod- laws. In 2009 they tackled one of the larger the regulations, but are also functional and
uct,” Korb says. “We have several sizes and projects for Stranahan’s, founded in 2004 and beautiful places to create new whiskey.
with all the toast and char levels we can do, it’s one of the first craft distillers in the U.S., to
easy for folks to create their own standard.” convert a Denver brewery into their current
distillery. Over the years the Moores have
The Roastmaster
The Space Makers worked on other projects for the distillery,
including designing 12,000 square feet of new
DAVE GREEN
Skagit Valley Malting president
SCOTT AND COLLEEN MOORE building space, barrel warehouses, bottling and CEO, Burlington, Wash.
Dalkita Architecture and Construction areas, and a visitor center. They continue to Malting grains is a straightforward process,
co-owners, Littleton, Colo. work with the company on smaller projects, but when you need to malt a tremendous
Few commercial architects are up for the like making improvements to brewing spaces, batch one day and a single sack of barley the
challenge of taking a restaurant or other bottling halls, and barrel storage. next, it can become more complicated.
modestly sized space in a populated area Carving their niche in that rarified realm of The process for malting barley is quite sim-
and sticking a flammable-liquid factory distillery design evolved from Dalkita’s focus ple: the grains are steeped in water until they
inside. “That’s in a nutshell, what a distillery on designing distilleries. As Colleen and Scott begin to germinate, and are then dried with
is” says Scott Moore, co-owner of Dalkita worked with more and more new distillers, it heat. Malting generally occurs on a massive
Architecture and Construction. Since they became clear that few were fluent in the industrial scale, contributing raw material for
often exist in city centers, or are retrofitted regulatory lingo and requirements they nearly all the beer and whisky that is con-
into old buildings, craft distilleries present a faced—but neither were the regulators. To sumed around the world. But when a craft
unique set of challenges. Moore has de- address this, the couple started meeting with distiller needs to malt a single 50-pound bag of
signed several distilleries in spaces that are civic leaders to establish proper zoning barley, perhaps to a different roasting level,
they call Skagit Valley Malting (SVM).
Located in Washington State’s picturesque
Skagit Valley—where an increasing amount
of the local economy and agriculture center
around a thriving craft brewing and distill-
ing scene, including distilleries in and
around Seattle, about 70 miles south—SVM
has worked with Westland and Copper-
works in Seattle, Black Ring Spirits in Port
Orchard, and Orcas Island Distillery in
Washington’s San Juan Islands.
The founders of the company created a
single-vessel malting process, which Dave
Green patented once he became president and
CEO. It is unique because it uses a machine
that steeps, germinates, and kilns the grains in
a single vessel; temperatures and speeds are
adjustable and rotation is controlled. This lets
them customize each batch for factors such as
color and nitty-gritty details like the soluble-
to-total-protein ratio.
MASTER PLANNER Green has worked his whole career in food
Scott Moore (right) of
Dalkita Architecture
production. He prizes the relationships he
specializes in distilleries. developed with growers and others in the
valley over that time, including the founders

Skagit Valley Malting in Washington State
(right, top and bottom) often works with local
growers (above) to meet custom and some-
times small-scale requests of craft distillers.
of SVM, with whom he worked on an expan-

sion project. It went so well that he joined
the company and set out to widen its cus-
tomer base within the brewing and distilling
industries. SVM is larger than what’s com-
monly referred to as a craft maltster, a sector
of the industry that’s grown tremendously—
but his customized product is no less craft.
According to the Craft Maltsters Guild,
which was formed by eight craft malthouses
in 2013 and now has 64 members, the pro-
jected average total production for the Guild
in 2019 is 485 tons, which is 80% more than
the 270 tons produced in 2018, and more than
12 times the 38 tons produced in 2016.
But before details like roasting level can be
considered, there’s the broader, more critical
choice: what kind of grains to use and their
source. “For a long time, where barley was
grown didn’t matter. For a long time, that
wasn’t a goal or a consideration for beer or
spirits. We’ve chosen a different goal: find
[grains] that are wildly different,” Green
expounds. SVM looked at the supply chain to
find out where raw materials came from, how
Still Crazy budgets for that in terms of having architects
and hazmat people, but Chris went well
they’re processed, and how to sell them. CHRIS PARKS beyond being just an equipment supplier. He
According to Green, “We built relationships AAA Metal Fabrication helped us interpret all the codes and explain
with growers who understand what we’re president, Kemp, Texas the code to the code officials.”
trying to do to be a differentiated producer, “Craft distilling is really new in this country Parks applies the skill of a Tetris master to
so they produce products of different stan- and we were building one of the larger craft fit all the necessary equipment into a small
dards than [a] commodity system would distilleries,” explains Christian Krogstad, space. “He worked to build everything with
support. We don’t use middlemen, distribu- founder of House Spirits in Portland, Oregon, proper tolerances and made use not just of
tors, or grain elevators; self-distribution is a who selected Chris Parks of family-owned every bit of floor space, but every bit of ver-
must. The steps are tight—from grower to AAA Metal Fabrication to build his stills in tical space, space that otherwise would have
processor. Grower, us (processor), producers. 2015. “There are a number of people with gone unused,” Krogstad says. The receiver,
Less hands in the jar.” experience building big distilleries and process pump, and piping are cleverly

THRESH PRINCE
Rick Pedersen of Pedersen
Farms grows heritage grains
and processes them using
this antique fanning mill.
tucked under a nine-foot high platform that

wraps around the still, supporting the con-
thermal design—knowing how the steam pip-
ing sizing is associated with steam delivery,
The Grain Reaper
denser and the spirit safe. knowing the cooling surfaces. You need to be RICK PEDERSEN
Parks has spent the last fifteen years working able to pull all that together.” Pedersen Farms co-owner,
with brewers and distillers to fabricate highly In some ways, helping others achieve their Seneca Castle, N.Y.
customized stainless steel fermentation tanks, dream of making spirits is close to Parks’ own Rick Pedersen is a very patient man.
stills, and more. It’s a logical transition from his heart. “My personal study of distilling goes Case in point: Horton rye, an extra-spicy
JAMES FARRELL
core skills. “Mechanical operators are versed in way, way back,” he says with a hint of mis- heirloom rye that he cultivated from a small
running systems that can do things like heat a chief in his voice. “I was making alcohol fuels envelope of seeds from Cornell’s College of
hospital,” Parks explains. “Selling a complete in high school. It was a result of my desire to Agriculture and Life Sciences for a project
system requires a thorough knowledge of do drag racing.” continued on page 109

FARMERS
Oechsner Farms
Newfield, N.Y.
oechsnerfarms.com
Located in the Finger Lakes
region, Thor Oechsner’s farm
focuses on sustainable practices,
like crop rotation. His best-selling
grains are soft white and hard red
wheats and rye. Specialty grains
he’s grown include buckwheat and
triticale. He works with partners
who run a mill.
Colorado Malting Company

Alamosa, Colo.
coloradomaltingcompany.com
This farm/malt house has been a
family homestead since 1930. The
malting operation was added in
2008. They grow barley, wheat,
and rye, and do custom crops
including, but not limited to, hemp
TOP BRASS and teff.
Vendome Copper and Brass works
provides stills of all sizes. Meadow Brook Farms
Riegelsville, Pa.
mbfhay.com
Where Distillers Go to See a Specialist Farmer-owner Nevada Mease runs

this 1000-acre family farm in
Bucks County where he cultivates
rye, custom-grown grains, and
heirloom corn varietals, like
ARCHITECTS/DESIGN COOPERS FABRICATORS Bloody Butcher, Wapsie Valley,
GastingerWalker& Anne-Grey Cooperage Artisan Still Design and blue corn.
Kansas City, Mo. and Chicago, Ill. Fort Wayne, Ind. Eight Mile, Ala.
artisanstilldesign.com
gastingerwalker.com annegreycooperage.com
This family-owned company offers
MALTSTERS
Specializes in distillery designs This cooperage specializes in 5,
that account for every aspect of 15, and 25-gallon white oak custom-designed batch distillation Valley Malt
day-to-day operation, from barrels; repair and maintenance systems. Hadley, Mass.
delivery drivers to employees to work includes stave and head valleymalt.com
Chip Tate Craft Copperworks
visitors, as well as historic preser- replacement, hoop repair, and The third artisanal malt house in
Waco, Texas
vation. J. Rieger & Co. was its first more. the U.S. when it opened in 2010,
tatedistillery.com
distillery design project. this small operation malts grains
Speyside Bourbon Pioneering distiller Chip Tate, who from sustainability-minded
Peggy Noe Stevens and Cooperage built stills for his own distilleries,
farmers.
Associates Jackson, Ohio makes highly customized copper
Louisville, Ky. speysidebci.com pot stills. Solstice Malt
peggynoestevens.com A subsidiary of Speyside Salt Lake City, Utah
Vendome Copper and Brass solsticemalt.com
This firm focuses on visitor centers Cooperage in Scotland, the Ohio
Works
and tasting rooms, working with location is dedicated to produc- Owner and maltster James Weed
Louisville, Ky.
architects to design tour-friendly ing new bourbon barrels. floor-malts all his grains, which he
vendomecopper.com
distilleries of all sizes. sources from local small farms.
Kelvin Cooperage A world leader in still production,
Urbanadd Louisville, Ky. this generations-old, family-run Blue Ox Malthouse
Seattle, Wash. kelvincooperage.com company fabricates customized Lisbon Falls, Maine
urbanaddarchitects.com Family-run since 1969, this stills and equipment. blueoxmalthouse.com
An architecture, planning, and cooperage supplies 25 and Organic pale malt, wheat, and two
design firm specializing in small 53-gallon barrels and customizes and six-row pils are just a few of
KRISTINA KRUG
distilleries, equally adept at oak-toasting and charring the many house-malted grains
building brand-new spaces or combinations. It also sells freshly from regional farms this malt
retrofitting a distillery into an emptied wine and bourbon house produces, along with
existing space. barrels. smoked malts.

At Black Swan Cooperage in Minnestoa, Heidi Korb (upper left) and her team transform oak
trees into finished barrels, and offer customization for individual distillers, allowing them to des-
ignate their preferences, including the patented Honey Comb stave treatment (lower left).
with New York Distilling Company in Brook- Pedersen traffics in heritage grains—variet- Horton rye proves, can take years. Like the
lyn. Co-owners Allen Katz and Tom Potter ies that are not commodity products. They distiller waiting for his whiskey to age, the
approached Pedersen, seeking an heirloom rye provide him an opportunity to play historian, farmer waits for his grain to grow.
with New York ties for their rye whiskey. From forensic detective, and geneticist all at once. Cornell University professor of plant
that first contact to mashing took seven years, Pedersen Farms, the 1,200-acre property he breeding Mark Sorrells also runs the Cornell
as the few seeds they started with had to be owns in Seneca Castle in New York’s Finger Small Grains Breeding and Genetics Pro-
planted, harvested, and repopulated over and Lakes region, is essentially a sanctuary dedi- gram; he worked with Pedersen on the Hor-
over to obtain enough grain to mash and distill. cated to resurrecting long overlooked grains ton project. Sorrells says the last five years
Katz and Potter wanted an organic rye from around the world to determine if have been a grain renaissance. Until recently,
according to Pedersen, “[They] wanted to see they’re viable for whiskey making. not a single acre was dedicated to growing
what we could do that might be unique. I What makes a particular grain a good con- barley in the Northeast since before Prohibi-
contacted the [National Small Grains Collec- tender for distilling is based on various bio- tion, whereas now he estimates that barley
tion] seed repository in Idaho, for every class logical factors, like growing conditions. A grows on 6,000 to 7,000 acres. The cost is a
PETER GARRITANO
of commercial crop plant.” Seed repositories grain’s reaction to the climate, seasonal bit higher than commodity grain from the
stockpile seeds from around the globe, dating changes, even length of daylight will deter- Midwest because of land availability and
back centuries, in order to preserve their mine its health and yield. But before Peder- labor issues, but it’s a price distillers (and
genetic material until someone like Pedersen sen can test a specimen’s viability, he needs to brewers and bakers) are willing to pay for
offers them a new lease on life. grow enough for a mash, a task that, as locally grown heritage grains.

VOLUME 29, NUMBER 1 • SPRING 2020
Angel’s Envy Distillery in

Louisville, Ky. applies port and
rum finishes to its whiskeys.
BUYING GUIDE
I
f you’ve read Chuck Cowdery’s Whiskey profile of this whiskey—a bourbon finished in port 113 WA Selections
Imposters (page 85), you already appreci- barrels—clearly appeals to bourbon drinkers.
ate that not every bottle of whiskey is We’ve decided to group it and other bourbons
114 Scotland
what it appears to be. In sorting our that are finished, but have no added flavorings, 116 United States
Buying Guide reviews, where to place such with traditional bourbon for that reason. 119 Canada
whiskeys is often a topic of debate. For instance, Federal law, distiller creativity, and consumer
120 Ireland
SO-PHOTOGRAPHY / ALAMY
there is no legal definition of American single tastes rarely evolve in close alignment, so we will
malt, yet most whiskey drinkers recognize the continue to reconcile these considerations using 121 Japan
style, so it felt like a disservice to readers to lump our best judgment, always with fairness and
them into “Other American.” service to our readers in mind. Categorizing and 121 World Whiskies
Similarly, the new release of Angel’s Envy Cask reviewing whiskies is an imperfect science to be 121 International
Strength Port Barrel-Finished (93 points) is not sure, but one aspect that cannot be debated is the Market Highlights
classified as bourbon by the distillery in their abundance of high-quality bottlings lurking
filing with federal regulators. However, the flavor throughout this Buying Guide.

BUYING GUIDE
WHISKY ADVOCATE SELECTIONS

Best Values Editors’ Choice Collectibles
Whiskies with solid scores, modest This issue’s most impressive whiskies Whiskies that are generally limited releases
prices, and wide availability. considering score, price, and availability. and show the most potential to gain in value.
IRISH SINGLE POT STILL ISLAY IRISH BLENDED

93 Kilbeggan Single 94 Laphroaig 10 year old 94 Midleton Very Rare
Pot Still, 43%, $45 Cask Strength (Batch 011), 2019, 40%, $220
The follow up to Small Batch rye, 58.6%, $70 A classic with its nose of toffee,
this single pot still is double- Laphroaig’s latest batch continues vanilla, treacle tarts, and fragrant
distilled at the historic Kilbeggan the high standards set by previous pot still spices. Initially, flavors of
Distillery with a mashbill releases. More sherry on the nose green apple, red fruits, toffee,
containing 2.5% oats, inspired by compared to Batch 010, with malt, nimble spices, caramel, and vanilla
a Locke family recipe from the sea spray, lemon, antiseptic, and big before a minty master class: rubbed
late 1800s. Pot still spices hit the notes of peat. Citrus fruits, sherry, mint leaves become peppermint,
nose first, with candied peel, brine, and peat smoke on the full developing into After Eight mints,
baked peach, apricot, creamy palate, with vanilla and charred oak. then cool mints. Taste for a minute or more for
vanilla, nutmeg, cinnamon, and The finish is long, sweet, and the full experience. The smooth finish has clove,
ground pepper. Flavors of orange, apricot, medicinal, with licorice singed over a peat pepper, and bitter dark chocolate.—JM
cake, and vanilla combat fizzing pot still fire.—GS
spices. Sublimely good Irish whiskey.—JM
BOURBON
BOURBON
94 Old Fitzgerald 15
BLENDED SCOTCH
93 Larceny Barrel Proof year old Bottled in Bond
91 Chivas Regal 13 Kentucky Straight Kentucky Straight (2019
year old Manchester (Batch A120), 61.6%, $50 Release), 50%, $150
United Limited Powdered sugar, vanilla frosting A rich aroma dominated by
Edition, 40%, $35 and other bakery shop notes on vanilla, pralines, and cola
Bottled in recognition of Sir Alex the nose, as well as leather, iced showcases well-integrated wood
Ferguson’s remarkable thirteen tea, dark chocolate, cherries, and that smacks of tobacco, candied
league soccer titles, this scotch plums. The palate offers spiced nuts, and dark chocolate. The
does him proud. Juicy citrus, chocolate, toasted almonds, palate is similarly rich, full, and
aromatic spices, and vanilla cinnamon, pepper, vanilla cream, sultry-smooth, with no percep-
pudding; the nose is enveloped and well-integrated oak. The tible alcohol heat, just heaps of
with milk chocolate aromas and finish is spicy and powerful, with semi-sweet brown sugar, seductive spice, and fine leather.
further spiciness. The blend was chocolate, raisins, walnuts, leather, and pipe The maturity and refinement here are lovely to
selectively finished in American tobacco. A big whiskey that carries its proof behold—fruit, spice, and earth, draped over
rye barrels, and the flavors crescendo through remarkably well—savory and sweet, but with crystalline sweetness.—JL
orange, malt, chocolate, mint, and pepper, with subtlety and balance.—DF
some rye spices that usher in a lengthy, spicy
FINISHED BOURBON
finish. Blissfully good.—JM
RYE
93 Angel’s Envy
TENNESSEE
91 Old Pepper Finest Cask Strength Port
Kentucky Oak Straight Barrel-Finished (2019
91 George Dickel Barrel (Batch K02), 58%, $70 Release), 61.2%, $200
Select, 43%, $46 This whiskey’s lush qualities are An enchanting and somewhat racy
A lovely nose of overripe pears immediately evident on the nose, nose, with blackberries, cherries,
and baked apple is drizzled which is redolent of Mexican concord grapes, brown sugar, apple
with caramel and toffee chocolate, cedar spice, fresh crumble, leather, iced tea, and
sweetness, then veers into dark berries, raisin-studded polished oak; though the port finish
bakeshop notes of sticky- stollen, and balsam boughs. is evident, it doesn’t smother the
bun pastry. The rich, Without water, oak dominates bourbon’s core character, which
mouth-coating palate piles the palate, but add a few drops comes through with corn muffin and peanuts.
on more sweet fruit and and much more unfolds: grape Nutty grain asserts itself on the palate as well,
tarte Tatin, with flavors of cough syrup, blackcurrant jam, mocha, and set off by dark fruit and chocolate, ample spice,
mocha, peanut chocolate bars, and lemon- rich spice, with more blackcurrant, allspice, pecan pie, and cherry cough syrup. The lengthy
grass lending complexity. Drying tannins, pepper, and lingering herbs on the finish. finish is peppery, and pops with chocolate,
toasted almond, and sandalwood bring home There’s lots to unpack here, all of it cough syrup, roasted pecans, and warm spices.
the finish.—JL good.—SSB (14,000 bottles)—SSB

BUYING GUIDE
Scotland more vanilla, and caramel. The leisurely finish

presents wood spices and Jaffa oranges.—GS
cloves, and cinnamon, along with sherry,
cocktail cherries, more dark chocolate, and
bitter coffee. Long, oaky, spicy, and drying in
SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALTS 90 Balvenie Tun 1509 the finish.—GS
92 Macallan Edition No. 5, 48.5%, $120 (Batch 6), 50.4%, $400
Intended to showcase the color of Macallan, The sixth batch in this highly regarded series 89 Glencadam 15 year old, 46%, $75
the fifth annual Edition release has been aged comprises whisky aged in five refill sherry After an absence of a couple of years, the 15
in a variety of American oak casks. The nose butts, seven DoubleWood refill sherry butts, year old is back. Its temporary withdrawal was
is initially reticent and offers dried fruits, and nine bourbon barrels. The nose is soft and due to a shortage of appropriately aged
salted caramel, sawdust, and ginger. inviting, with honey, pineapple, vanilla, stocks, now in supply. The nose is delicate,
Extremely smooth on the palate, with more caramel, and ginger. The palate is rounded, with floral notes, plus cereal, cooking apples,
dried fruits, ripe plums, milk chocolate, new rich, and sweet, with honey, vanilla, apples, and a hint of white pepper. Honey figures on
leather, and black pepper. The finish is and pears. Tangy citrus fruit, star anise, and the early palate, with vanilla, more cereal,
medium in length, with leather and dark oak in the lengthy finish.—GS roasted chestnuts, and nutmeg. The finish is
chocolate.—GS medium in length, with oak and ginger.—GS
HIGHLAND SINGLE MALTS
91 Mortlach 15 year old Six 91 GlenDronach Cask Strength 87 Raasay While We Wait
Kingdoms, 46%, $150 (Batch 8), 61%, $95 (2018 Release), 46%, $60
The ninth and final release in Diageo’s Game As with previous batches, this was matured in The latest While We Wait bottling comprises a
of Thrones series was aged in first-fill a mix of Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry mix of peated and unpeated whisky from an
sherry-seasoned casks and finished in butts, puncheons, and quarter casks. The nose undisclosed distillery, finished in French oak
bourbon barrels. Vanilla and toffee, plus spicy offers quite subtle sherry, malt, vanilla, dark Tuscan wine casks. Fragrant on the nose, with
oak on the nose, while the full sherried palate chocolate, and black treacle. The palate is freshly mown hay, gentle smoke, berries,
yields dry fruit, spicy citrus notes, almonds, notably spicy, with hot ginger, black pepper, honey, and hot chocolate. Apricots and red
ABOUT THE BUYING GUIDE

REVIEWERS
Our reviewers cover the following territories. (Reviewers are
The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the
indicated by their initials at the end of the individual reviews.)
world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in
the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring Davin de Kergommeaux (DdeK) has been writing about Canadian
84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower whisky for over 15 years. Canada
scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and David Fleming (DF) has more than 25 years of professional whisky
some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. tasting experience and leads coverage of the spirits industry as
executive editor of Market Watch, Shanken’s Impact Newsletter, and
R AT I N G S A N D P R I C E S
Shanken News Daily. Staff reviewer
Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference
to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Jeffery Lindenmuth (JL) is the executive editor of Whisky Advocate.
Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices He has been a full-time writer and reviewer of beer, spirits, and wine
shown reflect the suggested retail price. When none is available, we for over 15 years. Staff reviewer
establish a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Jonny McCormick (JM) is a contributing editor for Whisky Advocate.
Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky He resides in Scotland. Blended scotch, blended malts, grain, Irish
priced in other currency is not presently available in the U.S. whiskey, Japan, and world whisky
F E AT U R E D W H I S K I E S Susannah Skiver Barton (SSB) is a senior whisky specialist and digital

editor for Whisky Advocate. She has been writing about whisky for
Groups of similar whiskies sometimes appear as a special focus and
over 5 years. Staff reviewer
Whisky Advocate Selections are highlights of the issue’s reviews.
These selections and accompanying images are for editorial Gavin D Smith (GS) is based in the Scottish Borders and has
purposes only and are not the result of any commercial transaction contributed to Whisky Advocate for more than 20 years. Speyside,
between Whisky Advocate and the producers. Islay, Scottish Highlands, Lowlands, Campbeltown, and Islands
95-100 90-94 85-89 80-84 75-79 50-74

Classic: a great Outstanding: a Very good: a whisky Good: a solid, well- Mediocre: a drink- Not recommended
whisky whisky of superior with special qualities made whisky able whisky that may
character and style have minor flaws

BUYING GUIDE
wine on the palate, with vanilla and dried fruits, 91 Bowmore 12 year old, 40%, $52 BLENDED SCOTCH
against a backdrop of singed woodsmoke. A great introduction to Bowmore’s single 91 Chivas Regal 13 year old Manchester
Nutty and oaky in the slightly oily finish. malts, and one of the best 12 year old single United Limited Edition, 40%, $35
(10,000 bottles)—GS malt scotches around. The nose offers tropical See Best Values, page 113
fruit, sweet smoke, a hint of brine, new leather,
ISLAY SINGLE MALTS and floral notes. Peaches, honey, vanilla, and 91 Johnnie Walker A Song
94 Bowmore 18 year old, 43%, $130 more full-on smoke on the rounded palate. of Ice, 40.2%, $36
This 18 year old is aged in a mix of bourbon Brine, cocoa powder, citrus fruits, and fading This pale gold, limited-edition dram is named
barrels and oloroso sherry casks. The nose is woodsmoke in the finish.—GS in honor of House Stark from the Song of Ice
redolent of a damped-down bonfire, with and Fire book series, better known by its
stewed fruit, wood spice, and pipe tobacco. 90 Bunnahabhain Toiteach television name, Game of Thrones. Designed
There are red berries, subtle peat, a hint of A Dhà, 46.3%, $75 for Highballs or pouring over ice, it offers a
iodine, and soft oak on the complex palate. Toiteach A Dhà means ‘smoky two’ in Gaelic nose of vanilla sponge cake sweetness, dried
The finish yields more tobacco, oak, rich peat, and follows the previously released Toiteach. grasses, green melon, spring blossoms, white
and spicy dark chocolate.—GS The nose opens with aromatic smoke and pepper, and a faint trace of peppermint. It has
brine, while red berries, caramel, nutmeg, and a soft, caressing character, with melon, pulpy
94 Laphroaig 10 year old Cask Strength cloves develop. Significantly greater sherry summer fruits, sour lemon, butterscotch,
(Batch 011), 58.6%, $70 wood influence on the palate compared to the barley sugar, vanilla caramel, and a later
See Editors’ Choice, page 113 last version, plus Jaffa oranges, pipe tobacco, supportive fizzle of spice. It concludes with a
nougat, cloves, black pepper, and smoked fish. finish of sweet vanilla and fruits.—JM
93 Lagavulin 16 year old, 43%, $65 Medium to long in the finish, with drying
This has been Lagavulin’s principal expression sherry, oak, pepper, salt, and dark 89 Johnnie Walker A Song
for more than 30 years. Iodine, rich peat, and chocolate.—GS of Fire, 40.8%, $36
caramel on the early nose, with sherry, sea Named for House Targaryen from Game of
salt, and charcuterie. The oily, briny palate 90 Caol Ila 12 year old, 43%, $65 Thrones. Aromas of malt, peppercorn, dry
offers peat and a medicinal note, along with On the nose, fresh fish wrapped in bacon with chile flakes, spicy nachos, sliced red apples,
black tea, Seville orange, toffee, cinnamon, a squeeze of lemon, cooked at a beach roasted whole spices, and soft smoke from
and a hint of smoked fish. Peat embers and barbecue. Floral and allspice notes emerge. snuffed candles. On the palate, this has a
hot tar in the lengthy, spicy finish. Deeply The palate is lightly oily, medium-peated, light, floaty texture with flavors of red apple
satisfying!—GS meaty, and softly spiced, with pineapple and at its core, followed by a roar of spice, citrus
melon. The finish dries, with more fruit and peel, lemon, sharp fruity acidity, vanilla pod,
92 Bowmore 15 year old, 43%, $76 peppery peat. Balanced and inviting.—GS and a touch of walnut. The finish is lengthy
Formerly known as Darkest, this expression and spicy.—JM
was given a secondary maturation for 3 years 89 Lagavulin 11 year old
in oloroso sherry casks. The nose features Offerman Edition, 46%, $75 BLENDED MALT SCOTCH
smoky caramel, dates, citrus fruits, and quite Saline, smoke, seaweed, and iodine mingle 90 Chivas Regal 20 year old Ultis
dry sherry. Dark chocolate and cocktail with biscuity shortbread, lemon, bubble gum, 1999 Victory Edition, 40%, $189
cherries on the rich malty palate, with peat bright berry fruit, and wafting floral aromas. Blended from 20 year old Strathisla, Long-
smoke and a hint of dry oak balancing the The palate glides silkily from lemon, orange, morn, and Braeval whiskies to mark
sweet fruitiness. Sherry, brine, soft peat, oak, and soapy-floral flavors to almonds, hazelnuts, Manchester United’s treble—triple trophy
and allspice in the lingering finish.—GS drying oak, and hints of ginger, with peat win—in 1999, this is a drink of understated
smoke and salt weaving throughout. Sweet, elegance. Orange peel, toffee, fine-roasted
91 Kilchoman 100% Islay then bitter on the finish, showcasing cigar ash, spices, vanilla extract, with hints of cocoa and
(2019 Release), 50%, $110 leather, and polished oak. Actor Nick Offer- malt on the nose. Creamy palate with
This expression was distilled from barley man, who collaborated with the distillery on Whoppers, candied orange peel, orange
harvested on Islay in 2007 and 2009, and this single malt, could hardly be described as sherbet crystals, and mild spices, with a later
combines whisky aged in 43 bourbon barrels. reticent, but his whisky has a sweet shyness phase of baked orange and butterscotch, it
Sweet peat, lemon juice, and sea salt on the that works well in the glass.—SSB remains creamy and soothing to the
nose, with honey, vanilla, and an herbal note. finish.—JM
The palate opens with overt peatiness,
LOWLAND
followed by brine and lemon, plus vanilla and a 90 Daftmill 12 year old (Summer BLENDED GRAIN SCOTCH
hint of charcoal. Long in the finish, with ashy 2006 Batch), 46%, $250 91 Royal Salute 21 year old Snow
peat and sea salt. (1,440 bottles for U.S.)—GS Pure, clean malt shines throughout this whisky, Polo Edition, 46.5%, $155
the first Daftmill bottling for sale in the U.S. With its inventive limited editions and contem-
91 Ardbeg Supernova (2019 Shortbread, candle wax, Golden Delicious porary design, it’s worth paying attention to
Release), 53.8%, $180 apple, rose garden, apricot, ginger, and Royal Salute these days. Its first blend of aged
This is the fifth release of Ardbeg’s most cinnamon on the nose. The palate is biscuity grain whisky has aromas of peanut, caramel,
heavily peated expression. The bold nose and sweet, with vanilla, shortbread cookies, ground pepper, rye crackers, vanilla pod, fresh
yields ashy peat, fish oil, hot lemon juice, black candied pistachios, and crushed almonds; oak, and stewed fruits. A rapid turnover of
pepper, asphalt, and antiseptic cream. Oily and lemon and orange peel and lively rose oil perk flavors: tangy orange shifts quickly to bitter
voluptuous on the sweet palate, with orchard things up once water is added. Tobacco, orange, followed by clove, pepper, chocolate,
fruits, honey, seaweed, and lots of moist peat. cinnamon, and toasted almonds and hazelnuts and honeycomb, then chocolate orange,
The finish is lengthy and very smoky, with fade like a whisper on the gentle, soft finish. nougat, and marzipan. It’s an even better dram
chile, cinnamon, and barbecued meat.—GS (1,260 bottles)—SSB over ice.—JM

BUYING GUIDE
United States shavings, and nutty-sweet butter pecan ice

cream. There’s a touch of herbal antiseptic and
palate; adding water is a good idea. The finish
extends all the flavors with seemingly bound-
tarragon, but it’s kept in check, letting the less length. Every sip is thrilling.—SSB
BOURBON AND caramel sweetness and baked marshmallow
FINISHED BOURBON permeate the palate. Water unleashes dark 92 Yellowstone 9 year old
94 Booker’s 2019-03 “Country Ham” cherry and candied peanuts. A really well- Limited Edition Kentucky Straight
Kentucky Straight, 62.35%, $80 balanced whiskey, with sweetness, spice, and (2019 Release), 50.5%, $100
Clover honey, floral notes, bright citrus, fruit working in harmony.—JL There’s a bounty of nuts here—almond, walnut,
marzipan, nutmeg, and cinnamon initiate a and pecan—along with vanilla, nougat,
mesmerizing succession of flavors. On the 92 Booker’s 2019-04 “Beaten Biscuits” poached pear, and some beeswax notes.
palate, the impeccable balance of sweetness Kentucky Straight, 63.05%, $80 Initially the palate is citrus-loaded, with zesty
and spice introduces candied orange peel and Fragrant oak on the nose, along with pow- grapefruit peel and cut orange wedges, but it
cinnamon hearts candies. What is remarkable dered sugar, vanilla fudge, cherry pie, and quickly succumbs to drying oak tannins,
is how a bourbon this potent can play host to accents of orange peel and leather. The palate showing a bit of heat as toasty oak, bitter
such delicate flavors, making it both massive offers notes of orange Creamsicle, pepper, chocolate, and cinnamon carry the finish.
and bright. The creamy sweetness rolls on and dried oranges, and cigar wrapper. The finish is (12,500 bottles)—JL
on, with waves of exotic sandalwood and spice a long ride of spice and chocolate-covered
appearing on the finish.—JL almonds, melding with cooked fruit notes of 91 Four Gate Split Stave by Kelvin
orange and black cherry, as well as cracked Cask-Finished, 57.8%, $175
94 Old Fitzgerald 15 year old pepper. A robust whiskey that carries its heft A straight bourbon that was finished in barrels
Bottled in Bond Kentucky Straight gracefully, and offers balanced complexity.—DF made with alternating charred and toasted
(2019 Release), 50%, $150 staves. There’s plenty of wood char and pencil
See Collectibles, page 113 92 Four Gate Outer Loop Orbit shavings on the nose, along with dry leaves,
Orange Curaçao-Gin Cask- pine needles, tea leaves, orange peel, clove,
93 Angel’s Envy Cask Strength Finished, 60.15%, $200 nutmeg, cedar, sandalwood, menthol, and
Port Barrel-Finished (2019 A pleasantly oily nose, rich with botanical licorice. It’s chewy and, naturally, quite oak-
Release), 61.2%, $200 notes, orange peel, black licorice straps, forward in the mouth, with complex flavors of
See Collectibles, page 113 herbs, vanilla frosting, and macaroons. The spice, dark cherry, black tea, and herbs—mint,
palate is sweet, with tropical notes of pine- licorice, sassafras, and cinnamon. More spice,
93 Larceny Barrel Proof Kentucky apple and mango, grapefruit, dried apricots, semi-sweet chocolate, tea leaves, and well-inte-
Straight (Batch A120), 61.6%, $50 and gentle spice. A lengthy finish offers lemon grated oak into the finish. (2,700 bottles)—SSB
See Editors’ Choice, page 113 cream pie, vanilla cream, light pepper, and
tobacco, ending with a hint of bitter choco- 90 W.L. Weller C.Y.P.B. Kentucky
93 Maker’s Mark Wood Finishing late. A very unusual bourbon, divisive within Straight, 47.5%, $40
Series: Stave Profile RC6 (2019 our tasting panel, but also very unique, Buffalo Trace asked fans to “Craft Your Perfect
Release), 54.1%, $60 balanced, and flavorful.—DF Bourbon” and this is the result. Cracker Jack
An impressive nose of cedar cigar box, sweet and butterscotch sweetness appear on the
cornbread crusts, leathery oak, and sweeping 92 Maker’s Mark Cask nose, with cedary oak and black cherry soda
vanilla introduce this decadent whiskey. On Strength Kentucky Straight lurking just beneath. On the palate, the flavors
the palate, the prolific oak offers lots of (Batch 19-01), 54.4%, $50 are bold, mouthwatering, and juicy, like dark
tobacco, dark chocolate, and sassafras draped The nose offers bold notes of cocoa powder, berry fruit sprinkled with baking spices and
over sweet dark berries and coupled with bold brown sugar, peanuts, licorice, cherry pie, spearmint. This has big impact, but is also
baking spices. Coffee, charred oak, and more vanilla ice cream, and baking spice. The delightfully drinkable, as the finish delivers
bitter chocolate linger long on the finish. palate is creamy, with chocolate fudge, citrus oil, stone fruit, and blackberry.—JL
Water serves well to tame the heat. Finished almonds, and shortbread, along with earthier
with the addition of ten toasted RC6-profile notes of drying oak, old leather, and tobacco 90 Widow Jane 14 year old The
staves in the barrel.—JL leaf. Cracked walnuts on the finish, along with Vaults Blend of Straight Bourbons
almonds, chocolate, toasted oak, orange, and (Batch 1), 49.5%, $150
93 Weller Full Proof Kentucky tea leaves. Lots of sweetness, spice, and The nose is fragrant and well-integrated with
Straight, 57%, $50 nuttiness, all ringed by a hint of black pepper. the oak, offering candied orange slices,
Fragrant lemon and dried herbs on the nose, (12,000 bottles)—DF peach, and notes of dried red berries. The
along with a sprinkling of powdered sugar and palate is smooth and has flavors of bright
a hint of licorice. The palate offers deep notes 92 New Riff Kentucky Straight Single fruit, drying oak tannins, raspberry jam, and
of blackberry compote, tiramisu, and milk Barrel (No. 15-3150), 56.45%, $50 semi-sweet chocolate. The finish is lengthy,
chocolate, all underpinned by earthy tones of New Riff is still too, well, new to have estab- with more fruit notes as well as brown sugar,
cedar and polished oak. A rich symphony of lished “classic” flavors, but this bourbon chocolate, and pepper spice. The oak flirts
flavor punctuates the long, impressive finish— certainly shows consistency with the distill- with being overdone, but creates a balanced
mocha, almond, and cooked dark fruit, draped ery’s bottled in bond version—amped up here and solid expression of well-aged bourbon.
in notes of gooey caramel and pepper spice, at barrel proof. Almonds and berries lead the (3,000 bottles)—DF
set against balanced oak.—DF nose, but it boasts voluminous depth with
notes of peanuts, iced tea, orange blossom, 89 Chattanooga 111 Proof Straight
92 Barrell Cask Strength tobacco leaf, and baking spice. Dark fruit, (Batch 19G19R), 55%, $45
(Batch 23), 53.89%, $90 textured spice, savory peanuts, dark chocolate, A hint of caramel corn, along with nutmeg, oak
This is heaped with toasty oak, notes of wood mint oil, orange, almond, and cherry on the char, blackberry jam, and earthy notes of wet

BUYING GUIDE
clay and tea leaves. The palate has loads of notes of new oak, baked apple, sassafras, 89 High West A Midwinter Nights
spice, black tea, and a subtle earthiness. The spice, and old leather. The palate is earthy and Dram (Act 7, Scene 6), 49.3%, $100
finish brings on chile-pepper heat, bitter herbal, with pulling oak tannins, while water A finish in port casks imparts plenty of dark
chocolate, burnt walnut, cooked cherries, and smooths out the heat and coaxes out more fruit and rich flavor throughout this blend of
light herbaceousness. Very unusual, successfully spice. The finish offers some classic bourbon ryes, which includes some of High West’s
venturing outside the box, with a deft mix of notes, but is somewhat lacking in balance. own make. The nose is leathery, with plums,
sweetness, chocolate, earthiness, and spice.—DF There are some youthful notes in the blend cherries, dark chocolate, brown sugar,
that don’t seem to offer much depth and orange pekoe tea, and blueberry jam. More
88 High West American Prairie complexity. (12,000 bottles)—DF fruit on the palate, including black cherry,
Blend of Straight Bourbons orange marmalade, and raisin, as well as
(Batch 19A23), 46%, $35 86 Pinhook Bourbon Country cacao nibs, baking spice, cola, and rich oak.
Minty and herbal on the nose, with notes of Straight, 47.75%, $37 The finish is lengthy and layered, with cough
fresh oak, licorice, apricots, brown sugar, dried The nose is a medley of bananas and cream, syrup, dark berries, chocolate, and
apples, orange peel, peaches, light coconut, cinnamon-covered apples, and saltwater taffy, cola.—SSB
ginger, and dried leaves. The palate is sweet with an undernote of new wood. A rich,
up front, with a complex melding of butter- creamy palate offers dried orange slices, 88 Blaum Bros. Straight, 50%, $50
scotch, spicy oak, orange slices, and chocolate marmalade, dried figs, mince pie, and vanilla Rose petal, orange pekoe tea, and grandma’s
fudge. The finish offers lots of spice, black cream. The finish has notes of baking spice, perfume earmark this as a somewhat youthful
pepper, bitter chocolate, and a pleasant note vanilla, more dried fruit, and a peppery back rye, with white pepper and cinnamon Trident
of almond nuttiness. A well-textured whiskey, note. Delightfully sweet and with good texture gum accompanying the floral aromas. The
with lots of spice and heat.—DF following through nicely on the finish. Youth- palate weaves together heaps of cinnamon,
ful, but balanced and enjoyable.—DF clove, sandalwood spice, dried flower sachet,
87 FEW Alice in Chains All Secrets and chamomile, with generous oak balancing
Known Tequila Barrel-Finished 86 Pinhook 4 year old Bourbon the confectionary notes of circus peanuts
(Batch 19H19), 50.5%, $75 War Straight, 49%, $45 candies and Pixy Stix. Quite distinctive—and
A fragrant, mellow nose of vanilla cream and A rather innocuous bourbon, it shows some likely divisive.—JL
root beer, with hints of lime, wood char, and of the pep that its namesake racehorse
oak. The palate offers racy red fruit, berry surely shares, with aromas of banana 88 Redemption Straight
skins, desert herbs, chocolate, licorice, and oak pudding, banana peel, lemon, vanilla, cloves, (Batch 259), 46%, $30
tannins, with a minty, peppery note. The finish licorice, cherry hard candy, and cornbread. At first the nose is dominated by wood—pen-
presents a new round of dry oak, peanuts, rich There’s zingy lemon and orange, rose oil, cil shavings and Popsicle sticks—but it soon
chocolate, cracked pepper, cedar, and red fruit. vanilla, cherry, and some herbal flavors on reveals violets, blueberries, grape Kool-Aid,
The tequila-barrel finishing creates an almost the palate, with more banana peel, candied and peppery spice. The palate is dry, with
rye-like spiciness in this unusual, creative fruit, and lemon oil on the finish.—SSB nuts, herbs and spices, mocha, and semi-
offering. (900 bottles)—DF sweet chocolate; a few drops of water help
84 Chicken Cock Kentucky with integration and bring out more fruit,
87 Frey Ranch Straight Straight, 45%, $60 including lemon meringue pie. It finishes
(Batch 1), 45%, $50 Banana peel, pencil shavings, florist’s shop, nutty and dry, with coffee beans and a touch
Certainly one for the oak lover, the nose is and rose garden lined with herb beds on the of lemon.—SSB
dominated by fresh lumber, dusty floorboard, nose. Oak takes the lead on the palate, but is
and toasty wood notes, with sweet vanilla, tempered by lemon and orange zest, sweet 88 Templeton Maple Cask-
hazelnut, cedar, and dark berry buried black licorice, chocolate, peanuts, and Finished, 46%, $35
beneath. The palate is similarly oak-driven, popcorn. Crushed peanuts, milk chocolate, A pleasant, honeyed nose of brown sugar,
with grape skins, tea leaves, and robust wood and pencil shavings persist on the finish, lemon peel, candied clementine, cherry hard
tannins leading to a finish that is dry and although it’s fairly short.—SSB candy, and light notes of herbs. The palate is
somewhat austere, with bitter chocolate and liltingly sweet with an overlay of spice, as
modest spice flavors.—JL
RYE well as flavors of orange peel and marma-
92 New Riff Kentucky Straight Single lade. Water brings out notes of vanilla wafer,
87 Middle West Spirits 5 year old Barrel (No. 15-5356), 58.2%, $56 orange, spice, licorice, and black pepper. The
OYO Double Cask Sherry Cask- This presents a pleasant nose of fresh-baked finish is spicy but sweet, with hints of
Finished (Batch 11), 43.25%, $70 muffins, honey-dipped apples, powdered candied orange and vanilla cream, all
Delicate and dessert-like on the nose: pista- sugar, raisin bread, baking spice, and cooked punctuated by a spice-note finale. (24,000
chio and vanilla rice pudding, milk chocolate, black cherries. Big and spicy, but smooth on bottles)—DF
cherry pie filling, grape soda, honey-roasted the palate, with flavors of dark fruit and bitter
peanuts, and iced tea. Naturally, it’s very sweet chocolate, grape jam, blackcurrants, herbs, 87 Templeton 6 year old, 45.75%, $50
and almost syrupy at times, with powdered cola, and dark berries. The finish offers A burst of orange on the nose: orange blos-
sugar, orange, cherry, rose water, milk choco- richness and length, with vanilla notes, spice, som, orange peel, orange pekoe tea, candied
late, and cinnamon; the mouthfeel is silky, and freshly baked apple pie. This is a big, orange slices. It also has sweet licorice, sage,
bordering on light. It finishes simply, with milk solid whiskey, beautifully structured, and honey, and blueberry. Light-bodied in the
chocolate, candied nuts, and vanilla.—SSB carries its proof superbly.—DF mouth with a bit of astringency; the flavors run
to berry, orange, spearmint, and cinnamon,
86 Barrell Bourbon (Batch 22), 91 Old Pepper Finest Kentucky Oak with gentle spice. On the finish, more fruit and
58.3%, $90 Straight (Batch K02), 58%, $70 cinnamon prevail, along with nuttiness and an
Initially, the nose is herbal, with emerging See Editors’ Choice, page 113 undercurrent of herbal pine.—SSB

BUYING GUIDE
AMERICAN WHISKEY
FOCUS ON
Buffalo Trace Antique
Collection
Every year, the Buffalo Trace Antique Collec-
tion metaphorically hits shelves to great
anticipation. In reality, these trophy bottles are
near impossible to find—unless, perhaps,
you’re willing to pay a hefty markup over the
$99 list price.
The 2019 lineup was blind-tasted and scored
by multiple Whisky Advocate reviewers (with
another Buffalo Trace bourbon mixed in with
the range). In general, scores were consistent
among reviewers; as usual, George T. Stagg
and William Larue Weller commanded the
highest praise. But with everything at 90
points and above, there are no duds to be
found.
95 William Larue Weller 12 year old

Kentucky Straight Bourbon, 64%, $99
A decadent whiskey with deep aromas that dark chocolate, leathery oak, and undercur- peppermint candy cane, root beer barrel
unfold sweet pipe tobacco, cedar cigar box, rents of black pepper and baking spice that candies, plenty of citrus, and some raspberry
hot caramel sundae, candied peanuts, toasted don’t quit. Restrained and elegant, even at full notes. However, it’s the wet earth and funky
coconut, and hints of paraffin. While the oak is proof.—SSB mushroom tones that make this the most
here in abundance, it is in lovely harmony, with peculiar of the family. There’s great breadth of
juicy dark blackberry balanced with long, 93 Eagle Rare 17 year old Kentucky flavors on the palate, as a mélange of spices—
leathery oak. The finish rolls on and on, with Straight Bourbon, 50.5%, $99 allspice, clove, and cinnamon—ride along on a
waxy fruit and a cascade of spices ending in Vanilla nougat, violet candies, maple syrup, wave of persistent sweetness, laced with anise
drying oak tannins laced with dark chocolate. blueberry jam, root beer, spiced peanuts, iced and cola.—JL
Masterful.—JL tea, and rich cooked fruit on the nose. Creamy
and nutty on the palate, with milk chocolate, 90 Sazerac 18 year old Kentucky
94 George T. Stagg 15 year old bitter orange, Coca-Cola, roasted pecans, Straight Rye, 45%, $99
Kentucky Straight Bourbon, 58.45%, $99 blackberry jam, and lush, silky spice. The A nose of orange peel, dusty spice, licorice,
Aromas of concord grape jelly, vanilla crumb lengthy, full finish showcases a panoply of cherry, dark fruit, and cola leads to a palate
cake, dusty baking spice, leather, tobacco spice—none of it hot—along with cooked that’s spiced and smooth, and offers notes of
barn, iced tea, and peanut shells are offset by cherries, dark chocolate, and leathery oak. lemon, orange peel, and pepper. Water
citrus peel and rose oil, especially prominent Excellent construction and balance of flavors; enhances the citrus notes, and also brings out
with a bit of water added. The bold, rich palate no water needed.—SSB bitter cherry, dried orange slices, leather, and
is packed with dark berries, baking spice, cracked pepper. The finish has good length,
semi-sweet chocolate, and espresso, with pops 92 Thomas H. Handy Sazerac 6 year with a fair amount of oak influence, orange
of citrus fruit and spearmint adding liveliness old Kentucky Straight Rye, 62.85%, $99 marmalade, cigar ash, dark chocolate, and
and verve. It finishes with blackberry cobbler, Sweet and spicy on the nose, this offers bitter herbs.—DF
86 High West Rendezvous menthol, licorice, Pine-Sol—intertwine with citrus flavors, orange peel, pepper, and tingly
(Batch 18426), 46%, $70 kiwi, green banana, and blackberries on the spice. Water brings out guava, lemon iced tea,
This blend of straight ryes is fruit-forward on nose. It remains consistent on the palate, with and mocha. The finish offers loads of spice,
the nose, with red berries, grape Pixy Stix, mint, bay leaf, eucalyptus, Szechuan pepper- with drying oak tannin and more orange peel,
sweet orange, canned pineapple, and shred- corn, licorice, dark berries, and dry oak; with contrasting with a hint of vanilla sweetness.
ded coconut, along with almond extract, water, lemon oil and hints of tropical fruit (10,000 bottles)—DF
baking spice, and herbs. There’s more fruit on emerge. The finish is oak-driven and peppery,
the palate—strawberry, orange, lemon, with the sweet medicinal quality of cherry
TENNESSEE
pomegranate—and a full panoply of baking cough syrup.—SSB 91 George Dickel Barrel
spices and black pepper. Fragrant nuttiness Select, 43%, $46
extends into the somewhat short finish, 85 WhistlePig 18 year old Double Malt See Best Values, page 113
supported by oak and bitter chocolate.—SSB Straight (2019 Release), 46%, $400
The age is readily apparent on the nose, which
AMERICAN SINGLE MALT
86 Pinhook Rye Humor offers notes of chamomile tea, spice cabinet, 92 Old Line 8 year old
Straight, 48.5%, $37 antique store, grape jam, candied orange, and Golden Edition, 50%, $95
Herbal and medicinal aromas—eucalyptus, balanced oak. The palate is spicy, with bright Bitter and dry with a hint of charred oak on

BUYING GUIDE
the nose, along with dried apricots, lemon flavors. Chocolate-covered candied orange
iced tea, and candied orange slices. The peel and roasted nuts mingle with cigar on
palate starts with drying oak tannins but is the finish.—SSB
balanced, offering black cherry pie, mint,
cloves, baked apple, spiced chocolate, and 85 High West High Country
cinnamon. The finish has hints of oak char, (Batch 19I04), 44%, $80
chocolate, caramel, dark fruit, and a burst Earthy, phenolic, and herbaceous with a
of baking spice at the end. A delicious wisp of smoke and seaweed, this is
sipping whiskey. (200 bottles)—DF certainly characterful. The flavor marries
malty sweetness, red fruits, and a peculiar
91 Grand Canyon Distillery Star smoke, like a distant burning leaf pile or
Shine (Batch 001), 46%, $49 smoldering smoked jalapeños. While it
This whiskey shows no reticence in assert- tastes a bit young, and it’s certainly
ing a unique and frankly thrilling personality unconventional, this is a very intriguing
from first sniff: tea leaves, coconut, brown whiskey, with an ashy finish delivering
sugar, saline, raspberry, plum, cinnamon, cocoa and nutty notes. (9,600 bottles)—JL
incense, and the freshness of a cedar-filled
forest rush out of the glass. Such layered 85 Rogue Rolling Thunder
complexity—belying its 18-month age Stouted, 48.5%, $80
statement—carries ably into the palate, Partial maturation in barrels that held
which is fruit-filled with dark plums and Rogue’s Rolling Thunder imperial stout lends
berries, lush with dark chocolate and this whiskey aromas of hops, dry coffee
baking spice, and tannic with oak and tea grounds, cocoa powder, and vegetal
leaves. The well-balanced finish showcases earthiness; there’s also mesquite barbecue
dark chocolate, sandalwood, subtle spices, chips, vanilla, and amaretto. More beer-for-
and cigar wrapper. Very approachable. ward flavors on the palate, along with spice
(600 bottles)—SSB and chocolate, some dry nuttiness, and
citrus oil. It’s consistent from start to finish,
89 Whiskey Del Bac Distiller’s ending with piney hops, oily citrus, drying
Cut Cask Strength, 58.15%, $85 oak, white pepper, and roasted nuts.—SSB
Dark tobacco, horehound, saddle leather,
mesquite smoke, and dried fruits rightly
OTHER
suggest the intensity to come from this 91 Manatawny Still Works Small
Arizona malt. The robust palate features Batch Port Barrel-Finished
grilled corn, heaps of char, and savory (Batch 19), 47%, $45
smoked meats, with a burnt-sugar note Made with a mashbill of malted barley,
that is both bitter and sweet. This is bold malted wheat, oats, and rye, aged in new
and flavor-packed, like drinking a glass of charred oak, and finished in a port-style
brisket. The no-holds-barred finish displays wine cask. The result of this complex recipe
campfire smoke, milk chocolate, and is an equally complex sensory experience,
burning citrus oil. (1,650 bottles)—JL with tropical and candied fruit on the nose,
including dried mango slices, pineapple
87 St. George (Lot 19), 43%, $100 chunks, raspberry and blackberry jelly
The nose is light, floral, and hoppy; sweet on candies, and grape jam, as well as matcha,
top, with hints of licorice, stone fruit, bubble rose petals, and dark chocolate. Floral
gum, and honeydew. The palate is also light, flavors run almost to soapy, but are
with a silky texture that offers notes of tempered by cedar, layered spice, nuts,
chocolate-covered marshmallows, plums, chocolate, and tobacco. A lovely finish, with
nectarines, and hot cocoa with whipped persistent dark fruit, spices, and lengthy
cream. Smooth and balanced on the finish, if bitter-sweetness.—SSB
perhaps a bit light, with lingering hoppiness,
toasted grain, and cigar wrapper, sweetened 89 Heaven’s Door 26 year old
by vanilla and tropical fruit notes. (3,300 Mizunara Cask-Finished (Bootleg
bottles)—DF Series Vol. 1), 55.75%, $500
The nose is minty and herbal, with a fragrant
86 10th Street STR Cask, 46%, $65 note of potpourri. It’s powerful on the
Cooked malt, roasted chestnuts, and cigar palate, with honey, coconut shavings, vanilla
box aromas mingle with caramel-nut frosting, and spice. Lots of robust age on
clusters, brown sugar, grilled fruit, and new this one, with a finish that offers almonds,
oak. It’s rich and roasty, with a velvety dark chocolate, vanilla cream, oak char, and
texture on the palate; the malt takes center good length. The barrel influence is strong,
stage, highlighted by bright citrus and as would be expected from a whiskey of this
herbaceous pine, as well as cooked fruit age, but is restrained enough to let the
and hints of tobacco, with prominent oak flavors emerge.—DF
BUYING GUIDE
89 Wolves Winter Run, 52%, $185 warm spicy glow. The softness of barley sugar with dark toffee and roasted nuts. (750
An eclectic blend of whiskey distilled from lends a creaminess to this mouth-filling, bottles for U.S.)—JM
beer, as well as rye and malt whiskeys; it middle-aged gem before it resolves in a long
proved divisive among Whisky Advocate’s spicy finish with baking spices and slightly
IRISH SINGLE POT STILL
blind tasters. The nose is resinous, with pine pulling barrel tones. A Canadian classic.—DdeK 93 Kilbeggan Single Pot Still, 43%, $45
needles, biscuity malt, macadamia nuts, See Best Values, page 113
grapefruit oil, and tropical fruit. Oily on the 85 Crown Royal Texas
palate, with assertive hops, pineapple, brown Mesquite, 40%, $25 93 Redbreast Small Batch Cask
sugar, nuts, bread dough, and reticent spice. Appealing notes of sweet mesquite, barbecue, Strength (Batch A), 58.6%, $100
The finish is floral, hoppy, and pleasantly butterscotch, candied nuts, warm cookies, and Prominent red apple, tropical fruits, pot still
savory, with nuts, grapefruit, and lemon. This a very pleasant Southwest smokiness. The spices, and oloroso sherry notes; this shows
whiskey knows exactly what it is—unconven- palate is light in body, offering notes of bitter great balance. The spices are powerful, with a
tional—and it’s not afraid to show it. (1,338 chocolate, herbs, and spice, with the mesquite roasted aroma like a crooked burnt match. The
bottles)—SSB note lingering. There’s more sweetness and palate is gripped by the high alcohol as pepper
chocolate on the finish; a tasty profile but and clove break open over the tongue into a
88 Dogfish Head Alternate somewhat light-bodied. The nose is the best bed of red apple, baked citrus, and caramel.
Takes Vol. 2: Palo Santo Marron part. The palate and finish are balanced, but Unquenchable layers of flavor usher in a
Ale Cask-Finished, 45%, $50 it’s a bit light and lacking in depth.—DF likable, bubble gum finish. (252 bottles)—JM
The nose is herbal, with notes of bitter lime,
92 Redbreast Small Batch Cask
lemon peel, hops, peppermint, green apple,
and hints of salinity. The mouthfeel is smooth,
Ireland Strength (Batch B), 57.2%, $100
with flavors of honey, chocolate cake, and A bold and expressive single pot still with a nose
cinnamon, plus notes of lemon blossom,
IRISH SINGLE MALT of fudge, vanilla, plummy sherry notes, bramble,
confectioners’ sugar, and baking spice. A long 92 Glendalough 17 year old Mizunara aromatic spices, and dried orange peel. Sweet
finish offers vanilla cream and crackling bitter Cask-Finished, 46%, $299 sherry, nutty, with a slow build-up of spice to a
herbs. Light and fruity—sometimes almost Beginning with more mature whiskey than concentrated peak of clove and peppercorns;
tropical—with a grip of appealing spice on the Glendalough’s Japanese oak-finished debut, then there’s red apple, caramel, and vanilla as
finish. (6,000 bottles)—DF which was 13 years old, this has all the aro- the spices keep going into the dry finish. This
matic hallmarks of mizunara, as well as golden one has a lot to say. (252 bottles)—JM
87 FEW Cold Cut Bourbon with pastry, cooked peach, heather honey, light
Cold Brew Coffee, 46.5%, $45 malt, baguette, and white pepper. A honeyed 91 Teeling Single Pot Still, 46%, $65
Not a whiskey: FEW Spirits cut its bourbon dram of melon, white grape, and clementine With a delicacy often missing from single pot
with cold-brew coffee instead of water, but the peel, with sparkling spices of black pepper and still, this shows melon fruitiness, white grape,
effect is subtle and surprising. There’s sweet ginger root. It concludes with notes of and rose water, with spice markets, cinnamon
green tea, spearmint gum, marzipan, coconut, gingerbread through to a spicy finish, though breakfast cereals, and wafting barbecue scents.
caraway, and toasted oak on the nose. the sweetness remains a constant. (3,000 Apple, pear, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, and
Mint-chocolate candy, licorice, blueberry, and bottles for U.S.)—JM ground almond mingle with velvety smooth
black pepper vie with oak on the palate; caramels. An impressive Dublin-distilled pot
adding water, a juicy, fruity strain of raspberry 92 Teeling Chestnut Cask-Finished still debut from Teeling, with its diverse cask
and pomegranate emerges. The finish is dry, Single Cask (No. 29555), 55.1%, $100 mix for the 1:1 ratio of unmalted and malted
peppery, and herbal; water brings out fruit to Teeling has cleverly exploited Ireland’s whiskey barley to develop texture and complexity.
balance.—SSB regulations that specify maturation in wooden (6,000 bottles for U.S.)—JM
casks, not just oak, to release the first chest-
90 Glendalough Single Cask
Canada nut-cask Irish whiskey in the U.S. Crushed
cloves, wet rocks, mint chocolate, vanilla Pot Still (Batch 1), 43%, $55
seeds, dark roast coffee beans, Brazil nut, and Hawthorn, apple, caramel, ground almond,
92 Forty Creek Confederation antique leather on the nose. Partaking shortbread, and finely ground pepper on an
Oak Reserve Small Batch unshackles gingerbread, treacle, clove, black alluring nose. Gentle, creamy mouthfeel with
(Lot 1867 L), 40%, $65 coffee, black fruits, and plain chocolate. Dark, caramel, dried apple, a moderate attack of clove
A complex nose with citrus fruits, hints of gothic whiskey from a shadowy part of the and pepper, and a finish of mild spices and
sultanas, barrel tones, mild vanilla, butter- warehouse to devour at midnight. (846 bottles bakery treats. Irish oak-finished whiskeys are a
scotch, and manuka honey. The sweetish for U.S.)—JM rare occurrence, making this a good stepping-
palate is rich in stone fruits—peaches and stone into the category, though it’s mellow by
apricots that merge into a vaguely pithy 90 Glendalough 25 year old pot still standards. (10,500 bottles for U.S.)—JM
nuttiness, then dried Mediterranean fruits: Irish Oak-Finished, 46%, $499
dates and figs. Classic slippery corn sweetness Taking a leaf from other successful virgin Irish 88 Redbreast Small Batch Cask
complements hot, sweet rye spices. Ends in a oak finishes, Glendalough is the first to Strength (Batch D), 58.9%, $100
medium, vaguely oaky, smoky finish.—DdeK deploy this powerful tool on aged Irish single An appealing nose, as an unrestrained
malt. Dark gold with complex aromas: treacle, spiciness surges out of the glass, uncovering
89 Gibson’s 12 year old toffee apple, walnut shells, new leather boots, notes of rowan jelly, baked pear, date, and
Finest Rare, 40%, $28 hints of blackcurrant, bramble, prune, whole lively sherry notes. Slightly sour baked
Fruit, grape skins, high esters, and oiliness on spices, and roasted meat juices. Sour plum, Bramley apple flavors are sideswiped by a rush
the nose yield to sweet fruits on the palate, 100% cacao, peppercorn, cassis, and slight of spices on a wave of high-strength alcohol,
with mild white pepper broadening into a bitter tannic notes, becoming liqueur-like somewhat anticlimactically suspending further

BUYING GUIDE
flavor development. Water rescues, coaxing MEXICO Light smoke, wood polish, mixed nuts, and
out lemon and gooseberry, with spice-flecked 88 Sierra Norte Native Oaxacan Red licorice in the lengthy finish. Pleasing balance of
vanilla toffee to finish. (252 bottles)—JM Corn Single Barrel (No. 67), sweet, savory, and smoky notes.—GS
45%, $45/375 ml
87 Redbreast Small Batch Cask Master distiller Douglas French unveils the
ISLAND SINGLE MALTS à
Strength (Batch C), 59.1%, $100 single-barrel results of his latest heritage corn 90 Talisker Distillery Exclusive
Cherry, raisin, aniseed, ground pepper, and experiments: a dry and spicy nose with graham (2019 Release), 48%, £95
fruitcake on the nose. The taste experience cracker, cornbread, red licorice, buttered Initial maturation of this expression took place
builds to a spicy clove and pepper fistfight, corncobs, and a cloud of spices. It’s a big in refill casks, followed by heavily charred
and while there are glimpses of red apple, it mouthful with flavors of fruit concentrate, red American oak hogsheads, and finally Euro-
takes time for the spiciness to subside and the bell pepper, baked orange, clove, star anise, pean oak puncheons. The nose is relatively
other flavors don’t ever really get a chance. peppercorn, and toffee, with the spices light, fruit-forward, slightly floral, spicy, and
Even the chocolate notes on the finish are congregating around the tip of the tongue, mildly ashy. Citrus fruits and sweet peat
harried by the spices. Dilution delivers much then a slightly vegetal finish.—JM smoke on the palate, with fruit and oak spices.
more enjoyable flavors. (252 bottles)—JM Orchard fruits in the finish, with just a hint of
87 Sierra Norte Native Oaxacan Green classic Talisker pepper. (6,000 bottles;
IRISH BLENDED Corn Single Barrel (No. 224), distillery only)—GS
94 Midleton Very Rare 2019, 40%, $220 45%, $75/375 ml
See Collectibles, page 113 This single-barrel release made from an
BLENDED SCOTCH à
attractive heritage corn has herbal notes of 93 Ballantine’s 21 year old
89 Jameson Triple Triple, 40%, $36/liter dill, cilantro stalks, and hints of tarragon, with Golden Zest, 40%, $151
Named because it’s triple-distilled and matured green melon, boiled corn, and dried apple. Perhaps the most alluring name ever given to
in sherry, bourbon, and malaga casks, this has Sipping it begins with a fruity palate of citrus, a whisky, this has a nose of bright, zesty,
a syrupy, fruity sweetness with notes of red raspberry, and green fruits, which are joined potent clementine with vanilla sponge cake,
cherry, green apple, pear, peeled clementine, by dill, ginger root, pepper, and a touch of fudge, heady floral scents, toasted coriander
vanilla toffee, and a generous helping of pot bitterness. A hot and spicy finish with rem- seeds, and peppercorn. Citrus drives the
still spiciness. Orange and lemon segments, red nants of unsweetened fruit.—JM palate, but it’s sweet and tangy, and arrives
apple, caramel, Jell-O cubes tossed in pow- with vanilla, fudge, toffee, and twinkling little
dered sugar, and background spices make this
WELSH SINGLE MALT flights of spice. Brilliant blending and the
sweeter and fruitier than regular Jameson, 93 Penderyn 12 year old tastiest exploration of Ballantine’s signature
though the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. Portwood Cask-Matured Single notes to date. (Travel Retail exclusive)—JM
(U.S. Travel Retail exclusive)—JM Cask (No. PT113), 60.4%, $140
Rosy red apples, damson jam, quince jelly,
IRISH SINGLE POT STILL à
93 Method & Madness Acacia
Japan piquant spices, pomegranate juice, and cracked
black pepper on the nose. The palate dutifully Wood-Finished, 46%, ¤92
follows suit with cherry, red apple, cranberry, Equal parts fascinating and delicious, this has a
91 Kaiyo- The Sheri Mizunara Oak blackberry, and raspberry until overwhelmed by clean and creamy nose with notes of Golden
Finished (First Edition), 46%, $129 high-strength alcohol, bristling with clove, Delicious apples, vanilla, golden sugar, snuff,
Don’t get me wrong, this is delicious, but while pepper, and ginger spices. Lastly, a vanilla-cup- and a sprinkle of lime zest. Brown sugar, praline
the mizunara oak subtleties cannot match the cake sweetness is enhanced by cooked apple, edging on chocolate flavors, stone and orchard
intensity of the sherry influence on the nose, its while water conjures up a delicious watermelon fruits, vanilla, light toffee, and a late sensation
flavor contribution to this multidimensional note, with a finish of overbaked deep-dish of spices nipping the tongue. Dark toffee,
whisky is rather wonderful. Strawberry, sherry, apple pie. (251 bottles)—JM coffee grounds, and bitter chocolate join the
fig, prune, and nuts on the nose and palate, spices in the finish (2,500 bottles).—JM
enriched with fragrant spices, millionaire’s
shortbread, vanilla tablet, base notes of pepper, International 91 Method & Madness Wild Cherry
and a finish of sherry, fig, and spice.—JM
Market Wood-Finished, 46%, ¤92
This pale-gold whiskey has a bright and
World Whiskies Highlights à refreshing nose with lots of floral character,

apricot, vanilla frosting, apple tart, and gentle
Selected notable whiskies not currently background spices. Lemon meringue pie,
FRENCH SINGLE MALT available in the United States sugary sweetness, stone fruits, vanilla, orange
92 G. Rozelieures Subtil citrus, and an undertow of spice that mingles
Collection, 40%, $60 higher in the mix by the end: a mirror image of
Although G. Rozelieures makes several peated
SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT à its fragrant aromas. The Method & Madness
whiskies, this is an unpeated single malt, with 90 GlenDronach Traditionally experimental range is delivering some wonder-
notes of honey, sherbet, summer flowers, ears Peated, 48%, £51 fully characterful whiskeys that are worth
of barley, buttery biscuits, and black pepper- GlenDronach is known for its unpeated sherry- hunting down. (2,500 bottles)—JM
corn. Matured in French oak, bourbon, and matured whiskies. This peated expression was
cognac casks; the balance is superb, with honey, matured in Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry
icing sugar, vanilla, apple Danish, and spicy oak, casks, and some port pipes. Hand-rolled tobacco You can search the entire
leading to caramel and baked apple in custard. smoke, ginger, honey, malt, and barbecued database of Whisky
The substantial mouthfeel and serene transition bacon on the nose. New leather, smoky orange,
Advocate reviews online at
whiskyadvocate.com
of flavors make this heavenly to drink.—JM treacle, and milk chocolate on the earthy palate.

Are You A Whisky Advocate? Then Show Us!
Send us your photo. We’ll run the best ones here, or you might see it online.
Email photos to [email protected]
Fort Lauderdale Firehouse 2 captain Mark Rossi hosted

the department’s annual Bourbon & Brotherhood Mike, Cindy, and Ashley Hotta (left to right) stopped for a lunch
excursion. Ironically, their copy of Whisky Advocate got break while on tour of Rinca Island in Indonesia. Is that Komodo
wet and couldn’t be included in the photo. dragon a whisky advocate too?
Joan and Mark Haushalter

traveled from Ohio to visit
Louvre Abu Dhabi in the
United Arab Emirates.
Thanks for taking us along!
Anneliese Rush visited Breckenridge

Distillery after a day of snowshoeing.
This was Whisky Advocate’s first
snowshoeing adventure!
Madeline Monahan
of Pittsburgh and
her father enjoyed a
taste of Talisker 25
year old at a holiday The O’Connors celebrated David O’Connor’s (center) 80th
gathering. Cheers! birthday with a trip to Louisville and distillery visits on the
Kentucky Bourbon Trail. Happy birthday, David!
WHISKY ADVOCATE, (ISSN 1086-4199; USPS 21582) is published quarterly plus one special issue, by M. Shanken Communications, Inc., 825 Eighth Avenue, New York, NY 10019 (212-684-4224). Periodicals postage paid at
New York, NY and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: send all address changes and subscription inquiries to Whisky Advocate, P.O. Box 37367, Boone, IA 50037-0367; go to www.WhiskyAdvocate.com; or call 1-800-
610-6258. Subscription rates: U.S., $22 for one year; Canada, $24 for one year; International, $40 for one year. Subscriptions are payable in U.S. funds. To order a new subscription, go to www.WhiskyAdvocate.com. Unsolicited
manuscripts will not be returned, and no responsibility can be assumed for such material. Whisky Advocate© is a registered trademark of M. Shanken Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. Nothing may be reprinted or
reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher. Copyright© 2020, M. Shanken Communications, Inc.

A LI G H TE R D RAM
Getting Emotional Over Emojis
A
by TERRY SULLIVAN
picture is worth a thousand there are tiki cocktails worth drinking. Make addition of…a tumbler containing a dram of
words! No, sorry, it’s not. that sixteen. There are now over 350 million dark liquid—in the latest Unicode Version
A picture isn’t even worth of those Martini-glass emojis, or the same 9.0 update, has finally lead [sic] to equality
seven words, and if you number as cat videos on middle-schoolers’ among drink icon choices.”
disagree, try expressing that Facebook pages. Well, thank the shade of Elijah Craig for
notion—that a picture is worth a thousand And then one day I got an emoji of a dou- that. Free at last. No longer will people be
words—with a picture. ble Old-Fashioned glass, which the Unicode forced to send pictures of the bone-in rib eye
Which is why I deleted the gazillion emojis community thinks is a tumbler, with brown they’re eating at Peter Luger without being
that my phone thought I needed. I ignored allowed to add a cartoon of their pre-pran-
them until they (whoever they are) added dial pop in the subject line. (Alongside a
pictures of faces expressing emotions I steak emoji, of which there are twelve,
couldn’t identify. It was then that I realized which is ten more than the steaks on
emojis are an attempt to return to the days offer at Peter Luger.)
of ideograms, to ignore the progress of And I don’t want or need any of
written English from Beowulf to Eric them. Most of all, I don’t want or
Blair, Milton to Mark Twain, and need—and here please accept my
revert to hieroglyphics. To pitch W. apologies for causing this to ap-
H. Auden down the drain in favor of pear in print—a poop emoji. There
the Tutankhamun cartoons. are dozens of poop piles out there
But people of course still sent for your enjoyment: smiling, sad,
them to me. I was awash in and dancing. In an inspiration I
thumbs, all of them up, and faces can’t even conceive of, there is
happy, sad, nauseated, and what I now a mason-jar beer-mug emoji
think is semi-bemused with a head- with an added poop emoji on it.
ache, although I can’t be sure. Last I’ll admit to linguistic codger-
week Jeff Bezos, whom careful read- hood, even syntactic curmud-
ers will remember from a previous geonry, but what I could use is a
PORTRAIT: JOE MCKENDRY; ILLUSTRATION: GARY HOVLAND

missive, wanted to tell me that the visual representation of the posses-
book I’d ordered had shipped (and here sive as the subject of a gerund, or that
I’m just guessing) from the Amazon ware- “genius” is a noun, and “ask” is a verb. I
house so he sent me a picture of a little could go on—so I will. What I would
truck. Bellow wept. dearly love is a little emoji that says that I
But it was the booze hieroglyphs that drove still sort of like you, but that can end if you
me to the edge of despair. (Not that I’m ever spirits in it. It was semi-new, but I hadn’t don’t stop sending me pictures of penguins,
all that far away, but still.) People add them to noticed because, remember, I’d 86ed the dancing women, woozy faces, and baby
messages because I scribble at the margins of little buggers some time ago. But being ever chicks hatching. And Martini glasses.
the cocktail, wine, and whiskey universes, curious, and an indefatigable researcher, I Finally, please realize that all those thou-
and they think they’re cute. There are, par found a whiskey website that told me that sands of emojis are nothing but the children
exemple (if you’ll pardon my French—which “until recently, deprived smartphone users and grandchildren of the smiley face, and
is imperfect, but included as a small demon- were restricted to using icons of beer mugs, sticking them on your emails is the semi-
stration of how annoying I find getting emojis a red wine glass, or cocktails to communi- adult version of a fifth-grader passing notes
of Martini glasses on my birthday), seventeen cate what they were drinking when messag- in third-period geography. Or a second-
tiki drink emojis, which is fifteen more than ing friends or posting on social media. The grader making poopy jokes.

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IRISH SINGLE POT STILL WHISKEY • THE ISLE OF SKYE • NOT-QUITE WHISKEY

56 Flipping Whiskey by Sean Evans 85 Whiskey Imposters by Charles K. Cowdery

Now established distillers and newcomers alike

9 From the Publisher

11 Dear Whisky Advocate

50 Head, Heart & Tales

53 The Thinking Drinker

111 Buying Guide

123 I’m a Whisky Advocate

124 A Lighter Dram

Why Can’t I Find This Whisky?

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 9

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 11

Sweepstakes Winner which would become his favorite

12 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Editor & Publisher Marvin R. Shanken

Vice President/Advertising Director Michael P. McGoldrick

Vice President, Shanken Creative Group Don Gatterdam

M. SHANKEN COMMUNICATIONS, INC.

Questions about your subscription? Call (800) 610-6258 or email [email protected]

14 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

WhiskyFest New York Delivers Whisky Bliss

18 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 19

The Land of Pleasant Living

A ﬂight of rye awaits visitors

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 21

TOP: EFRAIN PADRO / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

22 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Baltimore Spirits Company

an event space and cocktail bar where guests

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 23

BOTTOM: COURTESY OF THE BALTIMORE ORIOLES

24 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Guinness Open Gate Brewery offers tours, Distilleries/Breweries

Rusty Scupper 402 Key Hwy.; borail.org

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 27

W hisky is often redolent of the

28 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Billionaire 2 oz. 1⁄4

Cocktail à la 3⁄4 oz. rye 3 dashes 3⁄4oz. 3⁄4

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 31

Another or Tennessee brethren.

Fine Pickle a peaty Scottish malt will embrace the pickle’s

I f Peter Piper really did pick a peck of

PICKLES: JEFF HARRIS

32 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Rum for Whisky Drinkers Fine Rum

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 35

JEFF HARRIS / DRINK STYLING: TYNA HOANG

36 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

let cool. Store in a glass container and keep

WHISKY ADVOCATE SPRING 2020 37

Sure Bets special emphasis on Whis-

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38 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Sharing a Dram With the Drama King

40 SPRING 2020 WHISKY ADVOCATE

Matt Rehwoldt paid a visit to