92813.

Snöfall – T-Shirt

Soft elegance or a T-shirt for everyday – this model is always just right. Snöfall is the Sweish word for
snowfall. With its simple silhouette, it can be worn for all occasions, on the job, for leisure time, or as a
dress-up garment for a party evening. It is knitted with the two yarns held together, worked from the
top down, with minimal finishing. After casting on at the back neck, you work back and forth to shape
the shoulders and neck. Then you work back and forth separately on back and front to underarms. At
that point, you’ll join the two pieces and knit in the round until shirt is desired length. The sleeves begin
with stitches picked up and knitted around the armholes and worked down, in the round.

YARN Junior Raggi (75% superwash wool, 25% nylon, 219 yd/200 m / 50 g)
Fin Mohair Silke (72% mohair, 28% silk, 230 yd/210 m / 25 g)
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS FOR JUNIOR RAGGI
Bambu Raggi (50% wool, 25% nylon, 25% bamboo, 437 yd / 400 m / 100 g)
GAUGE Approx. 20 sts x 37 rows/rnds in stockinette on larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Adjust
needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary.
SIZES XXS (XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 36¾ (38¼, 40½, 43, 45¼, 47¾, 50, 52½, 54¾) in / 93 (97, 103, 109, 115, 121,
127, 133, 139) cm
GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 19¾ (20½, 21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62,
64, 66) cm
GARMENT SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 7 (7, 7¾, 7¾, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 8¾) in / 18 (18, 19.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 22,
22, 22) cm
YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
Color 1: Approx. 200 (200, 250, 250, 300, 300, 350 350, 400) g (color 68427, Pink Fuchsia, Junior Raggi)
Color 2: Approx.100 (100, 125, 125, 150, 150, 175, 175, 200) g (color 31531, Arctic Wolf, Fin Mohair
Silke)
NEEDLES U. S. sizes 4 and 7 / 3.5 and 4.5 mm: smaller size: circular 16 in / 40 cm; larger size: circulars 16
and 32 in / 40 and 80 cm
NOTIONS Stitch markers
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY **

Matching Tunic: 92809

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES

M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front
loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop
= left-leaning increase.
M1R-p = make 1 right-purl: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from back to front and purl into
front loop = right-leaning increase.
M1L-p = make 1 left-purl: With left needle, lift strand between 2 sts from front to back and purl into
back loop = left-leaning increase.

BACK NECK
With larger size circular and 1 strand of each yarn held together, CO 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66)
sts.
Work back and forth in stockinette; the first row = WS.
After first row, turn work and pm on st numbers 2 + 49 (51, 53, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63, 65) – shoulder lines.
Now increase along shoulder lines on both RS and WS as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit to first marker (on Row 1: k1), M1R, k1 (= marked st), M1L, knit to next marker, M1R, k1
(= marked st), M1L, k1 = 4 sts increased.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to marked st, M1R-p, p1 (= marked st), M1L-p, purl to next marker, M1R-p, p1 (=
marked st), M1L-p, purl to end of row = 4 sts increased.

Rep Rows 1-2 a total of 5 times (all sizes) = 10 rows = 40 sts increased (all sizes) = a total of 90 (92, 94,
96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106) sts.

Continue increasing the same way along shoulder lines on both RS and WS, and now, at the same time,
increase on neck on RS rows. After 1st st of row, M1R, and before last st, M1L.
RS = 6 increases.
WS = 4 increases.

Rep Rows 1-2 a total of 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11) times

= 6 (8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22) rows
= 30 (40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110) sts increased
= a total of 120 (132, 144, 156, 168, 180, 192, 204, 216) sts.

Continue increasing the same way along shoulder lines on both RS and WS, and, at the same time, cast
on new sts to shape neck at end of every row.
Begin by casting on 2 sts (backward loop) at end of last WS row
= 122 (134, 146, 158, 170, 182, 194, 206, 218) sts.

Turn work, continue as est, increasing along shoulder lines and ending RS row with CO 2 sts (backward
loop)
= 6 new sts (all sizes)
= 128 (140, 152, 164, 176, 188, 200, 212, 224) sts.

End each row with CO 2 sts (backward loop) another 3 times at each side (all sizes)
= 24 new sts (all sizes)
= 152 (164, 176, 188, 200, 212, 224, 236, 248) sts.

Work another WS row, increasing along both shoulder lines and ending row by casting on 28 sts (all
sizes) = 184 (196, 208, 220, 232, 244, 256, 268, 280) sts.

Continue on WS. After the newly cast-on sts, continue directly on WS of right front. Purl to shoulder line
on right side of work without increasing.
Purl marked st and place on a short strand of yarn.

Now back is worked back and forth.

BACK
The first row is on WS.
Begin row by casting on 1 st (backward loop), purl to shoulder line on other side and end row casting on
1 st before shoulder line
= 92 (98, 104, 110, 116, 122, 128, 134, 140) sts.
Turn work and then work back and forth in stockinette until armhole measures 8 (8¼, 8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 9, 9,
9½, 9½) in / 20 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24) cm as measured from division of pieces.

Place back sts on holder.

FRONT
Place second marked st on a short strand of yarn.
Slip front sts to larger size circular.
Begin row by casting on 1 st (backward loop), knit to other side and end row casting on 1 st; turn.
Turn work and then work back and forth in stockinette until armhole measures 8 (8¼, 8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 9, 9,
9½, 9½) in / 20 (21, 21, 22, 22, 23, 23, 24, 24) cm as measured from division of pieces.

BODY
Arrange back and front onto same larger size circular and join to knit in the round.
Knit around until body measures 18½ (19¼, 20¼, 20¾, 21½, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½) in / 47 (49, 51.5, 52.5,
54.5, 56, 58, 60, 62) cm, as measured from point between neck edge and beginning of shoulder.
Pm to indicate row for change to smaller size needle.

Change to smaller size circular and work a folded edge:

Work around in stockinette until edge measures 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5,
3.5, 4, 4, 4, 4) cm from marker.
Purl 1 rnd (= foldline).
Work around in stockinette for another 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4,
4, 4) cm.
Next Rnd: Fold last part of hem to WS and join for a doubled hem: Knit tog 1 live st with 1 corresponding
st on marked rnd. Join next pair of sts the same way and pass 1st st over 2nd to bind off. Continue the
same way around. Make sure bind-off is not too tight!

SLEEVES
Begin at center of underarm with larger size circular.
Pick up and knit 38 (40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46) sts along one side of armhole, with 3 sts for every 4
rows, then knit the single held st. Pick up and knit 38 (40, 40, 42, 42, 44, 44, 46, 46) sts along other side
of armhole, (3 sts for every 4 rows) to beginning of rnd = 77 (81, 81, 85, 85, 89, 89, 93, 93) sts.

Knit around until sleeve measures 6 (6, 6¼, 6¼, 6¾, 6¾, 7, 7, 7) in / 15 (15, 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18) cm.

Pm (in st, not around needle) or attach a piece of yarn to mark row for change to smaller size needle.
Change to smaller size circular and work a folded edge:
Work around in stockinette until edge measures 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5,
3.5, 4, 4, 4, 4) cm from marker.
Purl 1 rnd (= foldline).
Work around in stockinette for another 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4,
4, 4) cm.
Next Rnd: Fold last part of hem to WS and join for a doubled hem: Knit tog 1 live st with 1 corresponding
st on marked rnd. Join next pair of sts the same way and pass 1st st over 2nd to bind off. Continue the
same way around. Make sure bind-off is not too tight!
Make second sleeve the same way.

NECKBAND
With smaller size circular, beginning at right shoulder line, pick up and knit (1 st for every st and 3 sts for
4 rows) = 98 (102, 106, 110, 114, 118, 122, 126, 130) sts around neck.

Knit around until band measures 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4, 4, 4)
cm from pick-up-and-knit rnd.
Purl 1 rnd (= foldline).
Work around in stockinette for another 1⅛ (1⅛, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅜, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝, 1⅝) in / 3 (3, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 4, 4,
4, 4) cm.
Next Rnd: Fold last part of hem to WS and join for a doubled hem: Knit tog 1 live st with 1 corresponding
st on marked rnd. Join next pair of sts the same way and pass 1st st over 2nd to bind off. Continue the
same way around. Make sure bind-off is not too tight!

FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
Wash t-shirt carefully. Lay flat to dry on a towel, patted out to finished measurements; leave flat until
completely dry.

SCHEMATIC

A ≈ Approx. 36¾ (38¼, 40½, 43, 45¼, 47¾, 50, 52½, 54¾) in / 93 (97, 103, 109, 115, 121, 127, 133, 139)
cm
B ≈ Approx. 19¾ (20½, 21¼, 22, 22¾, 23¾, 24½, 25¼, 26) in / 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) cm
C ≈ Approx. 11 (11¾, 12, 12¾, 13, 13¾, 14¼, 14¾, 15) in / 28 (30, 30.5, 32, 33, 35, 36, 37.5, 38) cm
(measured from transition between neckband and shoulder, vertically down to end of armhole).
D ≈ Approx. 8¾ (8¾, 9¼, 9½, 9¾, 9¾, 10¼, 10½, 11) in / 22 (22, 23.5, 24, 25, 25, 26 26.5, 28) cm
F ≈ Approx. 15¼ (16, 16, 16¾, 16¾, 17½, 17½, 18¼, 18 ¼) in / 38.5 (40.5, 40.5, 42.5, 42.5, 44.5, 44.5,
46.5, 46.5) cm
H ≈ Approx. 7 (7, 7¾, 7¾, 8, 8¼, 8¾, 8¾, 8¾) in / 18 (18, 19.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21, 22, 22, 22) cm
TIPS & SHORTCUTS
To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t match the
gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern,
your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To determine the
right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much
ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around each other
on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make
sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.

Yarn alternative: Please be aware that the gauge (tension), yarn quantity and the shape of the work varies if you use another
yarn (even in the same yarn group).

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from time to time. To
get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS

KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle,
CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front
loop, g st = garter stitch, inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two
stitches together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main
color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) = round/rounds, RH = right hand
needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk = slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st =
stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue, dc = double crochet, dec =
decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m =
marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds = round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts =
stitches, tog = together, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY

* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting

** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

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