copyright 2024 by Red Mill’s Crochet

Dahlia the Axolotl Dragon

A Crochet Pattern by Red Mill’s Crochet
Intermediate-Advanced
Pattern Tester Appreciation!

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Pick up your crochet hooks

and START YOUR ENGINES!!
For this you'll need: Supplies
A 4.25mm hook (or your preference)
Big Twist Baby Bear Yarn or Posh yarn in whatever colors please
you!
Fiber Fill Stuffing
Sinker eyes (I used 25mm)
A yarn needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Optional: Weighted polyfil beads
**You can honestly use whatever hook and yarn combo your heart
desires, the above are just what I used for my baby dragon.

CH: Chain Terms to Know

Rnd or R#: Round
SC: Single Crochet
INC: Increase (2 in a stitch)
INC the RND: Increase every stitch in the Round
DEC: Decrease
Fun Fact, if you message
MR: Magic Ring me asking for the terms or
HDC: Half Double Crochet the supplies, I will direct
you to read the pattern or
DC: Double Crochet the listing description you
silly little goose!
TR: Triple (treble) crochet
HDC-INC: Half Double Crochet Increase
DC-INC: Double Crochet Increase
SLST: Slip Stitch
TW: Turn Work
Read this before you leave a dumb review
about me having the term MR in my pattern

** This pattern is worked in continuous rounds or with a

SLST between rounds, and you can start with a MR or the
chain 2 method, artist's preference :)
 Helpful diagrams and pictures for the legs
and body for you visual learners out there!
outer stitches to work as the body

unworked stitches that should be left

until it’s time to stuff and close the body

13sc
13sc

1 2
12 total
unworked

4 3
13sc
13sc

Listen, the next page is only confusing if you let it be. Read through
it first and then start so you have a better understanding of where
things are going.

You if you don’t actually read the

directions and just skippideedoo through
the pattern like a silly goose.
you me
Legs (make 4) Legs and Body
R1: ch.2, 8sc into 1st chain [8] Worked in rounds
R2: inc the rnd [16]
R3-R4: 16sc around [2rnds of 16sc]
Round 5: Connecting Round
-Fasten off the first 3 legs, but don’t cut your working yarn from the 4th leg.
-With your working yarn, join the 1st leg to the current leg with a sc, place a
stitch marker, and 12sc
-Repeat that process until you’re back at the 4th leg, make sure you count 3
stitches from the first join and 13sc, this will count as round 5.
-You should be back at the stitch marker now.

**There should now be 3 unworked stitches left in the center from each leg
(12 center stitches, this will come back into play later in the game I`m playing
with you to test your patience)
Body
-You should now have a new starting round with a total of 52 stitches.
I highly recommend you use a stitch marker here to keep track of where your
rounds begin.
R6-R9: 52sc around [4rnds]
R10: 3sc, dec, (2sc, dec)x11, 3sc [40]
R11-R12: 40sc around [2rnds of 40sc] *Fun Tip*
R13: (2sc, dec)x10 [30] Use a small bag of
polyfil beads or
R14: (sc, dec)x10 [20] something similar to
R15: 10dec [10] weigh down the body
to keep it from tipping
Fasten off and close this hole. over once the head is
sewn on.
Leave a Long tail to help fasten on the head

Start stuffing the body from the center hole in the belly.
-Flip to the bottom and reconnect in one of the stitches here. You will have
16 unworked stitches (including each stitch between each leg, 12+4=16)
R1: (2sc, dec)x4 [12]
R2: (sc, dec)x4 [8]
-Fasten off and close the hole.
-Leave a long tail for sewing. May have a couple of holes,
just use your extra yarn to sew them closed.
Tail worked in rounds, make 1.
R1: ch.2 and 3sc into 1st chain [3]
R2: inc, 2sc [4]
R3: inc, 3sc [5]
R4: inc, 4sc [6]
**Make sure you stuff
R5-R12: 6sc around [8rnds]
and shape/stretch the
R13: inc, 5sc [7]
tail as you go!!! This is
R14-R18: 7sc around [5rnds]
in big letters so if you
R19: inc, 6sc [8]
get upsetti-spaghetti
R20-R24: 8sc around [5rnds]
that your tail doesn’t
R25: inc, 7sc [9]
look great well..**
R26-R30: 9sc around [5rnds]
R31: inc, 8sc [10]
R32-R36: 10sc around [5rnds]
R37: inc, 9sc [11]
R38-R42: 11sc around [5rnds]
R43: inc, 10sc [12]
R44-R48: 12sc around [5rnds]
R49: (3sc, inc)x3 [15]
R50-R53: 15sc around [4rnds]
R54: (4sc, inc)x3 [18]
R55-R57: 18sc around [3rnds]
R58: (2sc, inc)x6 [24]
R59-60: 24sc around [2rnds]
-Fasten off and leave a long tail for
sewing.
Head worked in rounds.
R1: Ch.2, 8sc into the 2nd chain from the hook. [8]
R2: inc the Rnd [16]
R3: (1sc, inc)x8 [24] HYDRATION
R4: (3sc, inc)x6 [30]
R5: (4sc, inc)x6 [36]
R6: 36sc around [36]
R7: (5sc, inc)x6 [42] IT’S KIND OF
A BIG DEAL
R8-R9: 42sc around [2rnds of 42sc]
R10: (2sc, inc)x6, 24sc [48]
R11: (inc, 3sc)x5, 24sc, inc, 3sc [54]
R12: (7sc, dec)x6 [48] Insert the safety eyes between
rnds 9&10 approx 8-9 stitches
R13: (6sc, dec)x6 [42] apart and centered to the middle
of the nose. You can mark the
R14: (5sc, dec)x6 [36] 12/13th stitch to help yoiurself
R15: (4sc, dec)x6 [30] find it later.

R16: (3sc, dec)x6 [24] Start stuffing here, keep in

R17: (2sc, dec)x6 [18] mind where your increases
are to shape the nose
R18: (1sc, dec)x6 [12] (round 10ish)
Fasten off. Leave a long enough tail to close the head and use to
secure to the body.
Finish stuffing and close the hole.

See how I stuffed the head 8-9 stitches apart

so the nose area protrudes
here?
Big Ears worked in rounds, make 2.
R1: Ch.2, 6sc into the second chain from the hook [6]
R2: Inc the Rnd [12]
R3: (3sc, inc)x3 [15]
R4: (4sc, inc)x3 [18]
R5-R6: 18sc around [2rnds of 18sc]
R7: 4dec, 10sc [14] TO NOT STRETCH
R8-R9: 14sc around [2rnds of 14sc] MY WRISTS!

R10: 2sc, fold in half and slst closed. Fasten off with and leave a tail
for sewing.

Medium Ears worked in rounds, make 2.

R1: ch.2, 6sc into the second chain from the hook [6]
R2: Inc the Rnd [12]
R3-R6: 12sc around [4rnds of 12sc]
Fold in half and slst closed. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Small Ears worked in rounds, make 2.

R1: ch.2, 6sc into the second chain from the hook [6]
R2: (sc, inc)x3 [9]
R3-R5: 9sc around [3rnds of 9sc]
Fold in half and slst closed. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.

Tiny Ears worked in rounds, make 2.

R1: ch.2, 6sc into the second chain from the hook [6]
R2: (sc, inc)x3 [9]
R3-R4: 9sc around [2rnds of 9sc]
Fold in half and slst closed. Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing.
Wings worked in rows, make 2.
Row1: Chain 7, start in the second chain from the hook, slst, 5hdc, ch.1, TW
Row2: 4sc, ch.3, TW
Row3: slst in 2nd ch. from hook, sc, 3hdc, hdc-inc, ch.1, TW
Row4: 4sc, ch.3, TW
Row5: slst in 2nd ch. from hook, sc, 3hdc, hdc-inc, ch.1, TW
Row6: 4sc, ch.4, TW
Row7: slst in 2nd ch. from hook, sc, 4hdc, hdc-inc, ch.1, TW
rotate to work to the top, ch.2 (you’re now going to rotate your work 90
degrees so that you’re working along the top - see photos)
Along the top: tr, dc, 2hdc, and then slst if needed
to get to the end.
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

Here we are ready to And here we are all

ch.2 and do the top of done with the top.
our wing! You can see the
Don’t worry about sloping shape as
exact placement, we’re we worked our
just trying to get those way from the Tr to
stitches in there for the sc!
some shaping.

Tail Pieces worked in rows, make 2.

Row1: Chain 8, start in the second chain from the hook, 6sc, inc, ch.1, TW.
Row2: slst, 3sc, 2dec, ch.1, TW
Row3: 5sc, slst, ch.1, TW 2 decreases
You’ll see here,
Row4: slst, sc, 2dec, ch.1, TW we are ready to
ch.1 and rotate
Row5: 3sc, slst, ch.1 to do those 2
decreases.
Rotate and 2dec going towards beginning tail.
Fasten off, leave a tail for sewing.

And here, we’ve

finished off the
2 decreases and
fastened off
with a slip
stitch!
Assembly

tiny
Big
I made a diagram
of how the ears
Medium are placed on the

head head for you!

You better like
it, no returns!

Small

Big Ears to Head

Sew the big ears to the head
from approx. round 2 to round 7
They should be about 3-4
stitches apart at the center

Tiny Ears to Head

Sew the tiny ears to the head,
just slightly behind the center
and behind the big ears
They should both basically be
touching at the center
Medium Ears to Head
Sew the medium ears to the head,
slightly behind and below the big
ears
Small Ears to Head
Sew the small ears to the head,
slightly behind and below the
medium ears
I like my small ears to be about half
way covered by the medium ears
when looking at them from the
front
Head to Body-ody-ody-ody
Use the sewing-stix to help keep the
head in place
Place the head on any side of the body
and center it
Sew the head on by using all of the
stitches that are naturally touching
and make sure it is secure and not
wobbly before fastening off your
sewing yarn

Tail to Body...ody
At the opposite end of the head, use
sewing-stix to once again secure your
tail while you sew Tail placement
Sew the tail on using round 60 of the
tail to secure the base to the body
the base of the tail should sit below
the final decrease rounds of the body
Head placement
Tail Pieces to Tail
Sew the tail pieces on both sides
of the tail, the smaller side of the
tail piece should be what’s sewn
on and the wider end should be
what is flared out

Wings to Body
Center the wings on the body and
angle them out slightly
Use row 1 as your anchor to attach the
wings to the body
I usually will weave in my ends, tie
them together, and then weave them
in again for extra security

Finishing Touches
Clean off any extra fuzz
You can use pink yarn to add blush if
you’d like
I added this super cute flower to mine!
you can find the pattern for free from my
crochet bestie, @kp_crochetcreations on
instagram
Give your work a good test squish to
ensure absolute cuteness and perfection
Final Look
 Special Shoutouts

First to Finish Best Theme

CozyWondersCrochet punkinpatchcrochet

Best Background Chonkiest

NerdyGirlsCrochet FreckledBrunetteCreations

Best Colors Best Duo

CrochetingCrap &
OldSoulFactoryCrochet Kp_crochetcreations
 And there you are! A complete and absolutely super cute baby
axolotl dragon and it’s all yours! (or someone very lucky if you
decide to part with the little guy!)
I hope you enjoyed this pattern and if you love what you made
enough to post it, please tag me (@redmills_crochet) so I can see
your beautiful creations!!!
Thank you so much!
Cheers! - Millie