A330 Assembly Guide

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1.

Introduction
1.1.General
This 1/30th scale A330-300 was designed with scale appearance in mind, and utilizes custom retracts designed to enable
the odd angles needed for the main and nose gear. Spaces throughout the airframe have provisions to allow the
installation of 5mm LEDs for navigation lights with minimal drilling or cutting. Although the plane was designed for 6S
70mm EDFs, a 4S power system will be sufficient and can allow for a lighter flying plane.

1.2.Specifications
4S Setup 6S Setup
Wingspan: 2006mm
(79 in)
Length: 2122mm
(83.5 in)
Wing Area: 40.18 dm2
(623 in2)
Print Weight: 3460g
(122 oz)
AUW: 5700g 6050g
(201 oz) (213 oz)
Wing Loading: 141.9 g/dm2 150.6 g/dm2
(46.5 oz/ft) (49.2 oz/ft)
Cubic Wing Loading: 22.3 23.7
Thrust to Weight Ratio: 0.6 0.7
*AUW and Wing Loadings are assuming a 2x3700mAH 45C setup.
Lower weights can be achieved with a single 5000mAH or 2x2650mAH setup at the cost of reduced flight time

Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019


2. Equipment Requirements
The following hardware is required to complete the construction of model. Links are provided for the equipment, but
equivalent alternates can be substituted.

2.1.Powerplant
EDF mounting is made specifically for the 70mm XRP fans but should be able to work with many other 70mm units.
If you have issues with your fan unit and fitment, reach out in the Cults3D comment section, or join the discussion at
RCGroups to request STLs for your specific fan unit. Dimensions would be required for the Fan unit to fulfill the
request.

Powerplant: XRP 70mm 14 Blade Power Unit 2200Kv


Speed Controllers: YEP 80A (2~6S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller
Battery: Roaring Top 6S 3700mAH 45C
ESC Bullet Connectors: 3.5mm Gold Bullet Connectors (6 Female Needed)

2.2.Electronics
Several servos used in the model require to be reversed. This can be done with re-soldering the servos, in-line signal
reversers, or by putting the servo on a dedicated channel on the receiver. If you purchase servos from ServoCity,
they have an option for reversed servos.

Aileron and Nose Steering: HS-65MG (x3)


Elevator, Rudder, Flaps: HS-85MG Servo (x3 Standard, x2 Reversed)
Landing Gear: HS-75BB Servo (x2 Standard, x1 Reversed)

Not listed are servo extensions. These will need to be measured based on however you plan to route the wiring.

Additional servos and a gear door sequencer would be needed to implement functioning gear doors.

2.3.Navigation Lights
If you opt for Navigation lights the airframe has provisions for the following:

 (2) Red Beacon


 (2) White Nose
 (2) White Wing Landing
 (3) White Wingtip and Tail Strobes
 (2) Red/Green Navigation
 (2) White Tail Logo
 (4) White Wing Leading Edge

Lighting can be accomplished in many ways, but below are suggested links for equipment. Additionally, lengths of
red/black ~26g wire and male/female connectors will be needed depending on how you prefer to configure the
lighting wiring. The amount of lights might overload a single receiver channel and it is recommended to have a
separate battery pack for the lights.

Navigation Lights: G.T. Power LED Lighting Kit (x2)


5mm LED Pack: 5mm LED Diode Kit
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2.4.Hardware
Many of the screws and bolts used came from assortment packs, so specific quantities are listed for each item if the
assortment packs are not wanted. Self-tapping screws are listed for assembling the various removable sections;
however this can be substituted with 2mm bolts.

5mm x 3mm Carbon Tubes 4pcs 5mm x 3mm x 1000mm (x1)


 3x827mm (Fuselage)
6mmx4mm Carbon Tubes: Autek 2pcs 6mm X 4mm X 400mm (x5)
 8x190mm (Fuselage)
 1x174mm (H Stab)
 4x139mm (Batt. Tray)
 2x139mm (Nacelles)
 2x90mm (Main Gear)
 1x40mm (Nose Gear)
8mm x 6mm Carbon Tubes ARRIS 2pcs 8mm x 6mm x 500mm (x2)
 1x450mm (Sub Spar)
 2x490mm (Wings)
10mm x 8mm Carbon Tube ARRIS 2pcs 10mm x 8mm x 500mm (x1)
 1x400 (Main Spar)
2x1/4” Self-Tapping Screws 2x1/4" (M2.3x6mm) Washer Head Phillips Self
 7x Servo Hatches Tapping Screws
 2x ESC Hatches
 6x Nacelle Shroud
 12x Hardpoints
2x1/2” Self-Tapping Screws 2x1/2" (M2.3x12mm) Washer Head Phillips Self
 4x Battery Hatch Tapping Screws
 6x Servo Attachments
 4x EDF Mount
M2 and M3 Socket Screws Stainless Steel Socket Head Screws
 28x M2x6
 1x M2x10
 2x M2x12
 4x M2x16
 10x M2 Washers
 2x M3x10
 4x M3x16
Grub screws (M2.5x4) Grub Screw Assortment Kit
 8x Nose Strut
2-56 Threaded rod w/ Link Du-Bro 185 Steel Kwik-Link With 12", 2-56 Rod (5-
 2x Elevator Pack) (x3)
 1xRudder
 2x Aileron
 2x Flap
 1x Nose Steering
 1x Nose Gear Retract
 2x Main Gear
2-56 Swivel Ball Link Du-Bro 2135 Swivel Ball Link With Hardware, 2-56
 2x Main Gear Retract x 1/2 (2-Pack)

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3mm Piano Wire K&S Piano Wire (3mm x 1000mm) (Qty 1)
 2x55mm (MLG Hinge)
 4x80mm (MLG Axles)
 2x25mm (MLG Bogie)
 2x14mm (Nose Gear)
 1x27mm (Nose Strut)
 1x53mm (Nose Axle)
 2x20mm (Flap Link)
693ZZ Ball Bearings (20 pc) 693ZZ 3mmx8mmx4mm Ball Bearing
 2x Nose gear
 12x Main Gear
1/8” (3mm) wheel Collars Great Planes 1/8" Plated Wheel Collar (12-Piece)
 2x Nose Axle
 8x Main Axles
Bogie Tilt Springs Neiko 50456A Spring Assortment Set, 200 Pieces |
 7/32”x1” Extension Zinc Plated Compression and Extension Springs for
Repairs
Gear Suspension Springs Swordfish 32030 Oxide Finish Steel Compression
 0.035”x0.25”x1 Spring Assortment, Black, 114 Piece
 0.035”x0.375”x1.75
Nose Wheels Dave Brown Treaded Lite Flite 1.5" Wheel Set
 2x1.5”
Main Wheels Dave Brown Treaded Lite Flite 2" Wheel Set (x4)
 8x2”
Du-Bro Nylon Piano Hinges Du-Bro 117 5/8" x 1-1/8" Standard Size Nylon
 6x Ailerons Hinge (15-Pack)
 6x Elevators
 4x Rudder
Du-Bro T-Style Horns Du-Bro 237 1-3/8" T-Style Nylon Control Horns (2-
 2x Elevator Pack) (x2)
 1x Rudder
Super Strength Servo Arms Du-Bro 672 Super Strength Servo Arms (Long
 2x Main Gear Hitec/Tower Hobbies/Hobbico/Command Servos)
 1x Nose Gear (8-Pack)

2.5.Filament Selection
This model is designed around using ABS or ASA for printing the sections. Alternately, if there are issues printing
parts or segments with ABS or ASA, PETG or PLA can be used. Be aware that PETG and PLA are ~20% denser than
ABS or ASA, so there would be a weight penalty if you go this route.

Material Mass Density


PLA 1.25 g/cm3
PETG 1.23 g/cm3
ASA 1.07 g/cm3
ABS 1.04 g/cm3

Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019


3. Slicer Settings
This model stands out from other available 3D printable
airframes in that the design can be used with any slicer
software and doesn’t follow the typical thin-wall outer shell
with intricate internal supports requiring separate processes.
All external surfaces are 0.8mm in thickness, so the slicer
treats the parts a single solid part. All parts were designed to
fit on a Prusa MK2S bed (250mmx210mmx200mm)

Note: The only parts that require supports generated are the
Tail4, battery tray, and the Landing Gear parts.

3.1.Airframe Parts
ABS PLA
Cooling Fan: OFF
Extruder (o C): 255 230
Bed (o C): 90 55
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Perimeters: 3
Top Layers: 5
Bottom Layers 4
Fill Density: 20%
Fill Pattern: Cubic
Fill Angle: 45o

3.2.Landing Gear, EDF Mounts, Attachment Points


ABS PLA
Cooling Fan: OFF
Extruder (o C): 255 230
Bed (o C): 90 55
Layer Height: 0.2mm
Perimeters: 3
Top Layers: 5
Bottom Layers 4
Fill Density: 50%
Fill Pattern: Cubic or Gyroid
Fill Angle: 45o

Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019


4. Printing
4.1.Bed Preparation
It is recommended to apply a light coating of ABS juice (acetone mixed with a small amount of dissolved ABS
filament) to the heatbed. Alternately, hairspray or glue sticks have been mentioned to help with bed adhesion.

4.2.Built-In Break-Away Supports


Many parts have a built-in break-away supports and
“sacrificial” bases. These can be broken off with your
fingers or a plier by giving the support a light bend. For
the sacrificial base, these typically exist for the first 15mm
off the build plate and are implemented to avoid
“elephant footing” on the parts. Similarly, these just need
a light bend to release.

The break-away has only been designed and tested for


ABS. If the parts are printed in PLA or PETG, there may be
more resistance with removal of the parts. Instead, the
parts in the “_No Supports” zip folder can be sliced and
printed.

4.3.Built-In Servo/Access Hatches


The stabilizers and wings have sections with hatches that
must be cut away to open the compartments. It is
recommended to print one of these pieces first as a test
to make sure that the hatch can be successfully cut open.
If the hatch is fused to the mounting bracket, the
extrusion multiplier of the print may need to be
decreased.

To release the hatch, gently score with a hobby knife


along the perimeter of the hatch. Do this for multiple
passes, and work from the edge inward.

If priming/filling is planned, trim the hatches open after


the first filling/sanding pass is completed. Though this
may be a bit riskier since a mistake when cutting can
result is needing to re-print the whole part.

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5. Joining Parts
5.1.Recommended ABS Glues
Acetone
Acetone causes the ABS to soften and creates a solvent weld, which gives similar
strength as the base material. To use acetone, pour a small amount into a small
mixing cup and apply the acetone via a swab. The swab can be made by rolling a
small piece of paper towel onto the end of a piano wire or bamboo skewer and
taping in place. A Q-Tip can also be used.

After the parts have been joined together, allow about 1 hour for the acetone to
evaporate and the joints to cure before handling.

Plastruct Plastic Weld


Similar to acetone, it creates a solvent weld, and requires some time for the joints to
cure for handling. This comes with a brush applicator attached to the cap.

After the parts have been joined together, allow about 1 hour for the solvent to
evaporate and the joints to cure before handling.

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6. Joint Types
6.1.Lip and Groove
This is the most common joint method in the whole
airframe. This allows a large contact surface for
applying the glue and helps to align the parts. Apply
the glue to all surfaces that will make contact with
the joining piece (Marked in RED).

When using acetone, I have found that it takes 2


passes of application to get the areas fully wetted (3
passes for fuselage sections and large wing panels).
First pass will initially coat the joint surfaces and
make the part look glossy. The second pass the
acetone starts to pool up, and this is when you want
to join the parts together. After the 2 parts are joined
together, some excess acetone/ABS slurry may
extrude from the joint seam (Be careful of splatter,
wear eye protection).

Using the swab wetted with acetone, wipe along the


seam to give it once last application (Marked in
BLUE).

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6.2.Fuselage Former Seats
The fuselage sections are composed of 2 parts:

1. A fuselage section
2. Former, which provides stiffness to the part. The formers have small alignment tabs that snap over the
stringers inside the fuselage.

Install the former by first wetting out the seat section


(Marked in RED). Install the former and press along the
perimeter lightly with a screwdriver to get the former
to properly sit on the contact surface (do not push too
hard). Make sure the alignment tabs are fully snapped
over the stringers.

To finish off the joint, apply acetone along the edge


between the former and the fuselage. Do this on both
the top and bottom (Marked in BLUE).

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7. Horizontal Stabilizer/Elevator
7.1.Build Notes
 After gluing together the horizontal stabilizer, place a ruler along the hinge line to make sure that the
sections have been assembled straight. Do the same with the elevator.
 Hstab1_Port and Hstab1_Stbd have a spot to install a 5mm LED for the tail logo light. This can be installed
when the stabilizer is fully assembled, however it can be tricky with the tight space and require a
hemostat. Alternately, the light can be installed prior to joining Hstab1 to Hstab2.
 Repeat the process for the starboard side.

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8. Vertical Stabilizer/Rudder
8.1.Build Notes
 After gluing together the vertical stabilizer, place a ruler along the hinge line to make sure that the sections
have been assembled straight. Do the same with the rudder.

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9. Tail
9.1.Build Notes
 Glue the Formers into the respective Tail sections prior to joining the Tail sections together.
 Check fitment of 6mm x 4mm x 190mm carbon fiber tubes in Tail1.
 Glue in Tail4_Brace1 and Tail4_Brace2 before attaching to Tail3.
 If Navigation lights will be installed, leave the APU off until the LED is mounted and wiring is finished.
 Hstab Attachment_Front and Hstab Attachment_Rear should be aligned with Horizontal Stabilizer
mounting holes before the glue/solvent is cured.
 Install the Vertical Stabilizer to Tail4. A laser level can be used to confirm Tail is perpendicular with CF tube
 NAV_Bracket_Tail is only needed if the spec’d out LED controller is used for the navigation lights. It is
recommended to have a dedicated LED controller in the tail, and one in the fuselage.

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10. Nacelle (Trent 700)
10.1. Build Notes
 Nacelle Front is meant to be removable, and attached via 3x screws.
 Install Nacelle Pylon Front to Nacelle Rear prior to installing the EDF Cradle.
 The EDF Cradle and Nacelle Pylon Rear are recommended to be installed after the nacelles are attached to
the wings.
 Carbon fiber tube should be the installed after the EDF Cradle.
 Glue in Tail4_Brace1 and Tail4_Brace2 before attaching to Tail3.
 Repeat for Starboard Nacelle.

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11. Wing
11.1. Build Notes
 Prior to assembly, check fitment of carbon fiber tubes. If there is too much resistance, some sanding might
be needed. Do this for each individual piece, and then dry-fit Wing4 thru Wing7 to make sure the carbon
fiber tube goes in smoothly.
 Wing6 can be printed in a single piece, or can be printed in 2 sections if leading and trailing edge warping
causes fitment issues.
 Wing6 has supports in place for the Nacelle mount. Score along the perimeter and remove the section. A
secondary support is inside the section that also needs to be removed, followed by an oval for the wiring
to pass through.
 Winglet has 2 versions available, one with sockets to mount 5mm LEDs.
 If Navigation lights will be installed, leave the Winglet off until the LED is mounted and wiring is finished.
 Begin assembly of the wing from Wing1 -> Wing2 -> Wing3 -> Wing4. Eyeball along the leading edge to
ensure straightness. Put the outboard wing section aside while you assemble the inboard section.
 Assemble inboard section from Wing7 -> Wing8 -> Wing6 -> Wing5. Temporarily install the 8mm x 6mm
carbon tube after joining each section and allow the joint to cure. Remove the carbon fiber tube and
repeat for the next section. Excess glue may cause the CF tube to bind to the parts, give the carbon fiber
tube a coat of wax, or push back/forth/twist after insertion to make sure no sticking.
 Assemble the Outboard and Inboard wing sections; temporarily install the 8mm x 6mm carbon tube while
the joint cures.
 Routing the ESC wires into the nacelles can be a bit tight. Prior to installing the nacelles into Wing6, the
motor leads can be pre-ran, and pulled through the nacelle during gluing. Wing6_Port/Stbd1_hatch is an
optional part that has a hatch built in for easy access to route wiring.
 Repeat the process for the starboard side.

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12. Ailerons/ Outboard Flaps
12.1. Build Notes
 After assembling Aileron, temporarily install into the wings via piano hinges or CA hinges while the part
cures. Du-Bro hinges require some trimming for proper fitment, trim the hinges prior to gluing the
aileron sections together.
 After assembling Outboard Flap, temporarily install into the wings via a length of 2mm piano wire or with
2mm bolts.
 Flap Inner3 has a socket to install a ~20mm length of 3mm piano wire. This is used to drive the outboard
flaps via the inboard flap servo. If this is not desired, Wing5 has provisions for a servo hatch, and dedicated
servos can be installed for the Outboard Flap. This requires installing the Flap Outer Control Horn into
Flap Outer2. Trim the recessed section and glue in the control horn.
 Repeat the process for the starboard side.

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13. Inboard Flap
13.1. Build Notes
 After assembling Inboard Flap, temporarily install into the wings via a length of 2mm piano wire or with
2mm bolts.
 Flap Inner3 has a socket to install a ~20mm length of 3mm piano wire. This is used to drive the outboard
flaps via the inboard flap servo. If this is not desired, Wing5 has provisions for a servo hatch, and dedicated
servos can be installed for the Outboard Flap. This requires installing the Flap Outer Control Horn into
Flap Outer2. Trim the recessed section and glue in the control horn.
 Trim away slotted section on the Flap Inner2 to install the Flap control horn.
 Repeat the process for the starboard side.

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14. Flap Track Fairings
14.1. Build Notes
 Fairing F glues together with respective Fairing R. Split away sections at visible hinge line on Fairing F
sections. A hot knife or dremel is recommended.
 Glue Fairing F section to Wing. Fairing R will need to be hinged and rigged to open with the flap
deployment.
 For the Easy flap fairings, Fairing 3F will need to have the lower section trimmed/rounded to not interfere
with the flap movement.

14.2. Rigging
 Normal: The regular flap fairings move in a scale manner, and get pushed downward when the flaps
deploy. They pivot on a 2mm hinge, and require an elastic band or lightweight spring to keep in place. The
movement of the flaps fairings are vertical.
 Easy: This version is provided as a simpler option. The rear fairing sections are glued to the flaps, and move
with the flap. The movement of the flap fairings are angled outward (match the rotational axis of the flaps)

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Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019
15. Main Landing Gear
15.1. Printing and Part Preparation
 Below is the recommended print orientation for Main Strut Top, Main Strut Bottom, and MLG Bogie. If
you inspect the STL files, these all have a flat bottom to help with improving the print quality when printed
in this orientation. After the parts are removed from the bed, the bottom later needs to be removed via a
knife. The cylindrical section on Main Strut Bottom needs to be rounded out for fitment into Main Strut
Top.
 The hollow section for Main Strut Bottom will need to be drilled/reamed out to allow the installation of
the 6mm x 4mm x 90mm carbon fiber tube.
 The MLG Bogie axle holes (3) need to be drilled/reamed out for the 3mm piano wire axles. The tighter the
fitment with the axles, the less slop will be present.
 Main Strut Top will need to be drilled with a ¼” bit to allow the movement of the 6mm x 4mm x 90mm
carbon fiber tube during strut compression. See cross-section
 Main Strut Top will need to be drilled/reamed out to 13/32” for the Main Strut Bottom to move smoothly
during strut compression. Be careful when reaching the transition/reduction section, as the drill bit can
catch the strut and seize. Wear gloves if holding the part during this process!
 Main Strut Top will need to have pivot axis drilled/reamed out to 3mm for piano wire hinge to be installed.
The tighter the fitment with the 3mm piano wire, the less slop will be present.
 Main Strut Bottom will need the shaft to be sanded/polished for smooth actuation when assembled.

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15.2. Assembly Notes
 Press-fit (2) ball bearings into Main Strut Bottom
 Glue in 6mm x 4mm x 90mm carbon fiber tube into Main Strut Bottom.
 Drill 3mm hole through carbon fiber tube after installation. Drill through existing hole on Main Strut
Bottom.
 Install 3mm x 25mm piano wire to join MLG Bogie to Main Strut Bottom. Bottom of carbon fiber tube
should be flush with inside of the fork.
 Place 0.035”x0.375”x1.75 spring over Main Strut Bottom carbon fiber tube, and Install assembly into Main
Strut Top.
 Compress Struts to expose the 3mm hole, and install the M3x16 bolt through the slot.
 Attach MLG Bogie Link to MLG Brake pair after Brakes are on 3mm axles. Then attach the MLG Bogie Link
to the Main Strut Bottom via a single M2x6 bolt.
 Dave Brown Treaded Lite Flite wheel hubs are not required to be replaced. However, better fitment will
be achieved if replaced with 3D printed MLG Wheel Hubs.
 MLG Bogie Link and MLG Brake are for aesthetics only; these can be omitted from the assembly.

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Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019
15.3. Installation Notes
 Press-fit (4) ball bearings into Wing6 Gear Bay.
 If 3mm piano wire does not fit into bearings, put piano wire into drill chuck, and polish the wire down
using 100-200 grit sandpaper, moving the paper back and forth evenly over the piano wire. This will slowly
reduce the overall diameter of the piano wire. Test fitment of the wire using a spare ball bearing.
 Align the Main Strut Top holes with the ball bearings and press the axle in place using needle nose pliers.
Leave ~5mm exposed in the flap cove to allow removal of the 3mm piano wire for any servicing or landing
gear repair/replacement.
 Install Super Strength Servo arms onto the retract servo and use the 4th hole. Test operation and
orientation of the servo arm at the endpoints of the servo movement. When the Gear is deployed, the
servo arm should be almost collinear with the pushrod. This setup may become sensitive to slop. Make
sure the hole made in the control arm for the push rod is very tight when installed.
 With the below picture as reference, the servo should rotate counter-clockwise the retract the gear up
into the bay.

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16. Nose Landing Gear
16.1. Printing and Part Preparation
 Below is the recommended print orientation for the nose landing gear components
 The hollow section for Main Strut Bottom will need to be drilled/reamed out to allow the installation of
the 6mm x 4mm x 90mm carbon fiber tube.
 The MLG Bogie axle holes (3) need to be drilled/reamed out for the 3mm piano wire axles. The tighter the
fitment with the axles, the less slop will be present.
 Main Strut Top will need to be drilled with a ¼” bit to allow the movement of the 6mm x 4mm x 90mm
carbon fiber tube during strut compression. See cross-section
 Main Strut Top will need to be drilled/reamed out to 13/32” for the Main Strut Bottom to move smoothly
during strut compression. Be careful when reaching the transition/reduction section, as the drill bit can
catch the strut and seize. Wear gloves if holding the part during this process!
 Main Strut Top will need to have pivot axis drilled/reamed out to 3mm for piano wire hinge to be installed.
The tighter the fitment with the 3mm piano wire, the less slop will be present.
 Main Strut Bottom will need the shaft to be sanded/polished for smooth actuation when assembled.

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16.2. Assembly Notes
 Press-fit (2) ball bearings into Nose Hinge
 Glue in 6mm x 4mm x 40mm carbon fiber tube into Nose Lower Strut.
 Drill/ream existing 3mm holes in Nose Upper Strut and Nose Upper Housing to install 27mm length of
3mm piano wire. Lock piano wire into Nose Upper Strut with (4) M2.5 grub screws. File flat spots on piano
wire for grub screws to prevent pin rotation.
 Place 0.035”x0.25”x1 spring inside Nose Upper Strut. You may need to clip off one coil for full
compression of the strut, or shave the carbon fiber tube 1-2mm.
 Join Nose Lower Strut and Nose Upper Strut via Nose Torque Link 1 and Nose torque Link 2
 NLG Detail is for aesthetics only; this can be omitted from the assembly.
 Install Nose Upper Strut into Nose Upper Housing. Place Nose Steering Horn onto 3mm Piano wire and
attach via (4) M2.5 grub screws.
 Attach Nose Strut assembly to Nose Hinge via (2) 14mm x 3mm piano wires through ball bearings.
 Dave Brown Treaded Lite Flite wheel hubs are not required to be replaced. However, the assembly will be
wider(55mm), and the wheel collars will stick out wider than the gear bay opening (50mm). The gear bay
will need to be cut wider. Alternately, metal washers can be soldered onto the ends for a low profile
install.

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17. Nose
17.1. Build Notes
 Glue the Formers into the respective Nose sections prior to joining the Nose sections together.
 Bulkhead drawing is included in the Nose folder for printing on 7.5x11” sheet.
 Check fitment of 6mm x 4mm x 190mm carbon fiber tubes in Nose3.
 Install 1/16” plywood bulkhead using rubber cement or epoxy. Make sure that surface of Nose3_Former
has been scuffed/sanded to give a good bonding surface.
 Assemble Nose1 -> Nose2 and cut open Nose gear doors. If you decide to make functioning gear doors,
install hinges, servos, etc. prior to attaching to Nose3.
 Attach Nose Gear Assembly to Nose3_Former using (4) 3Mx10 screws.
 Install Super Strength Servo arms onto the retract servo and use the 4th hole. Test operation and
orientation of the servo arm at the endpoints of the servo movement. When the Gear is deployed, the
Nose Upper Housing should be flush with the backstop on the Nose Hinge. If screwing servo in place is
difficult, use rubber cement/epoxy to glue servo in place.
 Check movement of Nose Retract with nose steering servo installed in Nose Upper Housing. Use
innermost servo horn hole. Confirm no conflict with Nose3_Former when gear is retracted. It is
recommended to have nose steering disabled when gear is retracted, Nose Steering Horn may conflict
with nose assembly with rudder input when retracted.
 Nose lead will likely be needed. ~60g of lead was used for a 2x3700mAH 6S setup with Navigation lights.
For simplicity, keep Radome off until final weight and balance so lead ballast can be easily glued into the
Radome.

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Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019
18. Fuselage
18.1. Build Notes
 Assemble Fuselage5 with Fuselage5_Belly. To assist with alignment, temporarily snap in place
Fuselage5_Former1 and Fuselage5_Former2 while glue cures. Check fitment with Fuselage4 and
Fuselage6.
 Install Formers into respective Fuselage section. Assemble Fuselage sections together.
 Fuselage4_Former needs cross braces to be trimmed away after assembly to allow installation of Battery
Tray.
 Fuselage Hardpoints (4) should be aligned with Nose and Tail before glue cures.
 Glue in (7) Fuselage CF Joiners onto a 5mm x 3mm carbon fiber tube. Spacing is not critical, but align to be
roughly centered with each fuselage section. Repeat to assemble 3. Install inside fuselage onto stringers
(one top, 2 side).
 Drains and Aerials should be the last parts installed, and can be pressure fit without glue.

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Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019
19. Battery Tray
19.1. Build Notes
 Install Battery Tray Tubes into Battery Tray. Center the tubes, and dry fit inside Fuselage to confirm
fitment prior to curing.
 Glue in 6mm x 4mm carbon fiber tubes into Battery Tray slots.
 Install Battery Tray Assembly into Fuselage4 using 10mm x 8mm and 8mm x 6mm carbon fiber tubes to
assist with alignment and keep in place while parts cure. Glue on Battery Tray Tube Joiner1 and Battery
Tray Tube Joiner2 over joints.
 Install Fuselage Rear Brace once Battery Tray is in place.

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20. Battery Hatch
20.1. Build Notes
 Joint Battery Hatch1 and Battery Hatch2. Add an optional 5mm x 3mm carbon fiber tube to give the hatch
strength.
 Glue in Battery Hatch Blocks to Hatch opening. They have lips that will align to the contours of the edges.

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21. Control Throws and Center of Gravity
21.1. Control Throws
 Control throws listed are maximum values. It is recommended to set High/Med/Low rates to allow
switching during flight if the plane is too sensitive/sluggish in flight. Set High/Med/Low to 100%/80%/70%
rates and Expo to personal preference.
Rudder: ±30mm
Elevator: ±25mm
Aileron: ±17mm
Flaps: 10 Degrees Takeoff, 35 degrees Landing

21.2. Center of Gravity


 Center of Gravity should be near the joint of Fuselage4 and Fuselage5. Balance the plane Right-side Up,
with Landing Gear Down. To prevent damage to wings, balance close to the fuselage, or from the Nacelle
Pylons.

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22. Support
22.1. Online Discussions
Below are the websites that can be used for more documentation, pictures, and any support with printing,
assembling, etc. These have been displayed in order of preference.

 RCGroups - A330-300 Main Discussion Thread


 RCGroups - 3D Printed Planes
 Facebook - 3D Printed Pilots
 Cults3D Comment Section

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23. Supplemental Notes
23.1. Fiberglass Reinforcement (Optional)
 Lightweight fiberglass glass can be bonded to ABS with minimal weight gain by brushing acetone to affix to
the parts. A second pass with ABS juice or slurry may be needed to help the adhesion and fill in weave.
This needs to be done carefully, as thin areas such as trailing edges of the spoilers can easily warp from
the acetone.
 This reinforcement is NOT REQUIRED, but was done to give extra piece of mind.

23.2. Wing Flex


 The wings develop a scale-like flex in flight. If there is a desire for more flex in flight, the 8mm x 6mm x
490mm carbon tube wing spars can possibly be shortened, but THIS IS AN UNTESTED IDEA, and may need
to incorporate the fiberglass reinforcement from Wing1 up to Wing6.

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23.3. Center of Gravity and Nose Ballast
 The below is the location of the 2x 3700mAH 6S packs to obtain the correct CG. 50g of lead was glued into
the Radome with gorilla glue mixed with a small amount of water and micro balloons. A 4S setup or
smaller 6S flight packs would require the batteries shifted more forward, and hanging off the battery tray
even more, or additional nose weight to be added.

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24. Change Log
24.1. Rev1 – 09/07/2019
 Section 2.4: Corrected link and description of ball bearing for nose and main gear. Bore should be 3mm for
the 3mm piano wire.
 Section 3: Removed Radome, added Battery Tray for items requiring support material to be generated.
 Section4.2: Updated the name of the zip folder that has parts without support/sacrificial base material.
Recommended for PLA, PETG, etc.
 Section 11.1: New comment added regarding Wing6. New STLs have been created for an access hatch to
allow easier routing of wiring through nacelle pylons.
 Section 14: Flap fairing section has been expanded with more information for rigging of scale flaps.
Additional information also included for an “Easy” set of Flap fairings if rigging is too difficult or time
consuming. New STL Files added for the “Easy” flap fairings.
 Section 16.2: Diagram updated to show printable wheel hubs. Notes added to also discuss this update and
issues if stock hubs are kept.
 Section 22.1: Direct link added to the A330-300 thread on RCGroups, as well as link to Cults3D model page.
 Section 23: New section added for supplemental notes.

Document Version: Rev1 – 09/07/2019

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