TROUBLE IN PARADISE:

A CASE STUDY OF PLEDGE

FOR COTTON
BY

Dr Siva Sockalingam

COURSEWORK CASE STUDY

CHANGE & LEADERSHIP
MMN223634
TRIMESTER A, 2022/2023
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Set up by Gail Munro, Pledge for Cotton (PfC) opened its first high street store on London’s
Oxford Street in 1987. Within 5 years PfC had expanded rapidly with stores in every major
city in the UK and latterly penetrated the European market with stores in key cities such as
Paris, Barcelona, Madrid, Budapest, Lisbon and Athens. The key recipe for its success was its
affordable fashionable product lines and a dedication to Corporate Social Responsibility
(CSR).

Background
Gail from a working class background grew up in the west end of London brought up by her
mother who worked as a fulltime live in maid for a high society socialite, Lady Cotton. Lady
Cotton was a kind young widow who enjoyed hosting lavish dinner parties for her wealthy
and fashionable friends. Having no children of her own she became very fond of Gail and in
many respects treated Gail as her own daughter. In the Cotton household Gail developed
her passion for fashion watching closely the stream of guests who were entertained by Lady
Cotton. When she left school she studied fashion design at university with the cost of her
education being funded by Lady Cotton. Gail excelled on her programme of study and was
offered an internship with a leading British fashion designer. This opportunity opened the
path to securing work at several other fashion companies across Europe; where in Milan she
fell in love and married up-and-coming Italian businessman Benito Mancini. Within a couple
of years they welcomed the arrival of their twins Maria and Franco.

In 1984, Lady Cotton passed away leaving her entire estate to Gail, which left Gail feeling
burdened by responsibility. After careful consideration, Gail decided that she would invest
the money in a fashion business that has been her life’s passion but one that would also
make a difference where possible for those less fortunate. She felt that she owed this to
Lady Cotton whose generosity had made such a difference in her own life. Gail and Benito
drawing on their expertise carefully planned this new venture which took them to several
countries to investigate the raw materials on offer and manufacturing and retail facilities.

Eventually after almost three years of planning the new PfC was born. In memory of Lady
Cotton, the new company name not only incorporated the name ‘Cotton’ but also
encapsulated its pledge to the wellbeing of the less privileged. Accordingly, the priority was
for PfC clothes to be of a quality and price affordable by most and not just the wealthy.
Cotton was naturally incorporated in all clothes designed, manufactured and sold by the
company. Drawing on her passion and expertise in fashion, Gail personally designed the
new lines for the London store to ensure that they were fashionable emulating the designs
of famous fashion houses but of cause much more affordable.

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To keep costs down and yet protect quality Gail knew that she had to outsource clothing
manufacture to a country with low labour cost. However she was keen to carefully select
the clothing manufacturer, cotton fabric producers and cotton suppliers, considering the
horror stories of cotton famers and poor work conditions of clothing manufacturers. It was
vital to her that PfC’s commitment to CSR was protected throughout the supply chain.

On their travels to secure an appropriate manufacturer, Gail and Benito had encountered
several companies that were engaged in poor practices that contravened international
legislation including the abuse of child labour. In Bangladesh they found a family
manufacturing company that proved to be a breadth of fresh air. The company treated its
employers with care and consideration paying them sustainable wages with good working
hours and conditions. Gail and Benito sensed a true ‘family-like’ atmosphere with
employees engaged with both their work and the company. Gail and Benito were
impressed and formed a partnership with the company. They also invested money in
enhancing the manufacturing process with new technology for increased efficiency to
enable the company to meet the demands of PfC. As a gesture of goodwill Gail and Benito
agreed to accept the manufacturing company’s current suppliers of cotton fabrics and their
network of cotton farmers from India having being assured of their reputation.

PfC
PfC garments proved an instant success in London; it was the first fashion store in the UK to
offer fashionable designed clothes at affordable prices. The Oxford Street store drew the
attention of consumers from all walks of life. Its association with Lady Cotton meant that
even the socialites of London were seen shopping at PfC and wearing PfC’s products. To
further stimulate the cross class appeal of the clothes Gail worked hard on promotion using
fashionable celebrities. Pictures of celebrities in PfC clothes combined with other reputable
brands in magazines and news papers fuelled interest and demand.

Within the first ten years, PfC had expanded into all major cities in the UK and subsequently
into Europe. As the company grew, a formal organisational structure was required to
manage the business along with the recruitment of both generalist and specialist staff and
managers. Gail assumed the position of CEO and brought her twins into the business as IT
Director (Franco) and HR Director (Maria). Together they formed PfC’s Board of Directors.
They also employed a team of designers who worked closely under Gail’s direct supervision
in designing the new clothing lines. A team of managers and staff were also appointed for
the key functions including IT, Marketing, HR, Operations and Finance. The head office of

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PfC was located in London to enable Gail’s frequent visits to all PfC stores in the UK and
Europe.

Gail retained sole control over the manufacturing of the products in Bangladesh. As the
business grew and became more successful she made further investments in the partner
company in Bangladesh to ensure it was able to meet the required capacity for production.
She also enhanced the terms of employment of the employees by increasing the wages of
employees well beyond that of other manufacturers in Bangladesh. Gail visited Bangladesh
frequently to oversee the production and over time developed close personal relationships
with the owners and their employees. In 1990, she built and staffed a free crèche and
kindergarten on the factory premises, for the young children of the factory employees so
that parents did not have to worry about the well being of their children whilst at work.
These facilities were appropriately equipped with free food and drinks provided to children
whilst in care. In 1995 she set up an after school club a for employees’ children. These acts
of philanthropy had a monumental impact on the future of the employees’ children in a
country plagued by poverty where many children are denied an education and are forced
into work from as young as 5 years of age (UNICEF, 2010). Supporting the less privileged
remained a central foundation of the growing business.

Overtime she also developed relationships with the company’s cotton fabric producers and
their cotton suppliers. She actively encouraged and supported cotton farmers to move from
conventionally grown cotton to organic cotton production; despite being a little more
expensive organic cotton was in keeping with PfC’s philosophy and commitment to
wellbeing of the less privileged. Conventionally grown cotton is the most pesticides and
insecticides intensive crop in the world (Natracare, 2013). Cotton farmers typically use
some of the most dangerous pesticides which even when carefully administered according
to label instructions harm people, wildlife and the environment. In many countries, cotton
is still hand picked; therefore anyone working in the cotton fields is exposed to extreme
levels of toxic chemicals. The chemicals can also affect others in the community once they
have seeped into the water supply. The health risks of pesticide exposure include birth
defects, reproductive disorders, long-term memory loss, paralysis, weaker immune systems
and even death. “In India, home to over one third of the world’s cotton farmers, cotton
accounts for 54% of all pesticides used annually, despite occupying just 5% of land under
crops” (Environmental Justice Foundation ). In contrast, organic cotton is free from the use
of toxic pesticides; composted manures and cover crops replace synthetic fertilizers,
innovative weeding strategies are used instead of herbicides, and beneficial insects and trap
crops control insect pests. “Organic farming, helps prevent topsoil erosion, improves soil
fertility, protects groundwater, and conserves energy as well as protecting the health of

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children and women, who often are the key workers on cotton farms” (Natracare 2013).
Following the move to organic cotton, PfC associated cotton farmers also became early
supporters of the Fair Trade Cotton movement in India aimed at a transparent textile
production chain which complies with international regulations and social standards.
Fairtrade “is based on a partnership between producers and consumers” and “offers
producers a better deal and improved terms of trade. This allows them the opportunity to
improve their lives and plan for their future” (Fairtrade International, 2011).

Although Benito was not formally involved in the business, he played an active role in
helping Gail with PfC’s strategy development including its expansion strategy. Gail was a
visionary inspiring leader. She believed in developing close relationships not just with
organisations within PfC’s supply chain but also with staff in all 30 stores. PfC’s employees
respected, trusted and believed in her. She prioritised employee wellbeing and developed a
trust based culture, and was ahead of her time introducing flexible working for all
employees. PfC also invested heavily in staff training and development with employee
reward initiatives such as Best Employee of the Month; part-time store staff were included
in all initiatives. She strongly believed that in the highly competitive retail industry, an
engaged work force and sensitivity to CSR were important sources of advantage that
distinguished PfC from its competitors.

In dedication to its commitment to the welfare of the less privileged, PfC worked closely
with the local communities in the cities where its stores were located. Every Christmas,
Gail allocated funds from the company sales revenue 1 to Store Managers to help bring some
Christmas cheer to less fortunate members of the community; last year PfC stores focused
on children’s home. It also has internship partnerships with several local London
universities for students in fashion design whereby students from low income families
undertake paid internships working with Gail and her team of designers. PfC also works
closely with third sector organisations donating unsold sales items to those in need of
clothes.

Her dedication to employee wellbeing and CSR has over the years raised the profile of PfC
distinguishing it from its competitors through strong brand identity and loyalty. In 2003,
Channel 4 screened a documentary of the history of PfC hailing it a 21st Century Business
Role Model given its unique capability for growth and profitability whilst remaining socially
responsible in all communities it engaged in.

1
The fund consists of 5% of all sales revenue in the first two weeks of December in each store.
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Despite her caring paternalistic leadership style Gail led the company with a firm grip
making all key decisions, with input from Benito. Although Franco and Maria were on the
Board of Directors and were experienced with managing the business, they were rarely
involved in the strategic leadership and decision making of the company. PfC remained very
much a Benito and Gail venture, which infuriated the twins and brought them even closer.
However, when Gail invited Maria on a trip to Paris in 2000 to finalise the arrangements for
PfC’s first Parisian store it caused a serious rift between the twins. Since then the twins had
begun to compete with each other to gain Gail’s attention in vying for the future role of
CEO; the closeness that they had previously shared has been replaced by ambition and
unhealthy competition.

Gail continued to make frequent visits to key fashions shows in London, Europe and the
USA. These shows were a key source of inspiration for the new lines that she designed for
PfC. In 2007, rushing back to the Head Office from a New York fashion show for the 20 th
anniversary celebration of PfC’s first Oxford Street store she walked into a major argument
between the twins in the board room. This day was to mark the end of Gail’s PfC.

She discovered that the twins were impatient to take over the reins of the company; the
argument concerned who would make the better CEO. Distraught by what she had
witnessed Gail wanted nothing more to do with the business that she had so caringly built; a
profitable and responsible company that made a difference to so many. At the end of 2007,
she retired from PfC and moved back to Milan with Benito. The business was handed over
to the twins who became joint CEOs with equal interest.

PfC: Post Gail

The delight of finally being able to take control of PfC very soon turned into anguish for the
twins. Despite extensive experience of the business, neither Maria nor Franco had any real
experience of strategic leadership of the company. Further they struggled to cope with
sheer scale of the responsibilities that they had to deal with. It was only after Gail’s
retirement that they had begun to appreciate the extent of the role that she had played.

Despite their previous discord they realised that they had to put their differences aside and
learn to work together. The twins divided the roles previously played by Gail with the
exception of strategy development which they retained jointly. However both twins were
overwhelmed with the sheer challenge of their role as joint CEOs that they tended to seek
comfort in the management of the company, which was familiar.

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The design team was the first to feel the frustration of the leadership gap. Although Maria
was tasked with leadership of design, she rarely made herself available to the design team.
The team was desperate to start on the next new line knowing that in a couple of months
new designs would be required by the manufacturer in Bangladesh. Having relied on Gail
for the inspirational ideas she brought from her travels they were at a complete loss. In the
end the team asked for a meeting with Maria, where they proposed that the senior team
members would take turns in attending Fashion Shows to inform PfC’s designs. They were
shocked when Maria proposed that she would attend the shows herself and outraged when
she claimed that such perks were only for the CEOs and not mere employees.
Disenchantment with the new regime begun to set in and motivation hit rock bottom when
Maria returned from her first show claiming that it was so boring that she decided to go
shopping instead. All she provided were a few pictures taken of shop window displays from
New York. With very little to go on they struggled to design the next season’s line. Not
surprisingly, over the years PfC begun losing its reputation for fashionable well designed
clothes; market share and profits have dropped noticeably since 2007. The design challenge
was further exacerbated as PfC lost its more experienced designers.

Store managers and employees too started to feel alienated from PfC’s Head Office. They
had been accustomed to Gail’s constant updates, frequent visits, her genuine care for the
wellbeing of staff and her keen interest in the stores, its window displays and merchandise
display bringing new ideas from her travels to multiple cities. In contrast, Maria rarely
visited the stores and when she did it was clear it was obligatory; she showed little interest
in the initiatives of store managers and staff concerns. When issues and problems were
raised Maria became defensive and autocratic. For example, at the Paris Store in the
presence of employees, Maria when challenged by the Store Manager for the lack of appeal
of PfC’s recent lines responded by informing the manager that she could look for a new job
if she was unhappy at PfC. The lack of communication, involvement and support from the
CEOs combined with reduced sales and limited investment in store enhancements
prompted a significant proportion of store managers and employees to leave PfC in search
of alternative employment.

Within a couple of years PfC had lost its lustre, with unappealing designs and dreary stores.
For the first time in its history in 2010 PfC recorded a loss which continued for subsequent
quarters. With mounting financial challenges all previous investments in local communities
were slowly terminated including the paid internship. Franco, who had taken on the
responsibility for PfC’s supply chain also contacted its clothing manufacturer in Bangladesh
to report that it would no longer be supporting its crèche, kindergarten and after school
club facilities. He also informed the manufacturer that PfC would be reconsidering the

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financial agreement negotiated by Gail and if the company did not comply with the new
arrangements PfC would be looking to secure an alternative manufacturer. The tone of this
formal correspondence from Franco deeply upset and infuriated the owners of the
Bangladesh based company, which had been in partnership with PfC since 1987.
Regardless, having already established itself as a trust worthy and CSR sensitive
manufacturer in the industry, and having fended off requests from one of PfC’s Spanish
based competitors it was confident that it could easily find an alternative customer.

In 2009, Just –Style reported that value clothing retailers are most likely to ride the storm of
the recession as this segment is set to be the rare growing segment in a generally declining
clothing retail sector. The twins decided that to survive in the current difficult economic
climate compounded by the financial challenges and talent drain experienced at PfC, the
only viable solution was to target the low cost market. To rebrand as a low cost clothing
retailer, PfC would have to either reshape or completely redesign its supply chain. Firstly,
organic cotton from Fair Trade cotton farmers would not suit the low cost target market
given the higher prices. Secondly, retaining the current manufacturer would also prove too
expensive given the higher wages. As such they opted for a new manufacturer which would
meet the needs of the low cost focus.

PfC Today
In 2011 PfC rebranded itself as a low cost clothing retailer having sourced a new
manufacturer in Bangladesh able to produce its clothing at low cost. Unfortunately, by the
time PfC entered the low cost market the market dynamics had changed; in the current
economic crisis it is low cost retailers that are suffering the worst (Feltsted, 2011).
Competition in the low cost segment is intense with key players such as Primark, C&A, H&M,
Tesco, Kiabi, Takko and Matalan. Further mid-range segment players such as Zara and
Cortefiel have engaged in strong discounting strategies to fuel competition, whilst Mango
has established a new low cost line called ‘think-up’(Just –Style, 2009). Further, established
players such as Primark have absorbed rising costs in a bid keep prices down and retain
market share. As such Kunde (2013) proposes that in the future, higher-end segments are
more likely to see growth given demographic shifts in Western Europe; the more mature
population with a higher disposable income is likely to desire higher priced better quality
garments. Some retailers such as H&M are already moving into this segment (Kunde, 2013).

Overall the rebranding strategy had proved unsuccessful. PfC continued to make losses and
even its Head Office employees had become disillusioned with the lack of a meaningful

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vision and effective strategies. The only thing that has kept employees at PfC was the
difficulty of securing a new job in a crisis crippled economy.

On 6th September 2013 the world heard the news of the collapse of the Merchant Tower at
which PfC’s new manufacturing company was located. Killing more than 2,000 people it was
labelled the world's worst industrial disaster sparking global outrage. The involvement of
PfC, which had been hailed the 21st Century Business Role Model, caused disbelief.

Finally the twins appreciated the inspirational wisdom of their mother and acknowledged
responsibility for the failure of what was once a highly successful, ethical and socially
responsible organisation. At cross roads, they are of the opinion that an external
consultant, able to bring a fresh perspective in designing creative strategic and fundamental
change drawing on developments in theory and practice is vital for the future survival of
PfC.

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References:

Feltsted A (2011); Europe’s cheap chic brands feel the pinch

http://www.ft.com/cms/s/0/ed23fef6-9cf2-11e0-8678-
00144feabdc0.html#axzz2fMWQzlWA
(Accessed 19th Sep 2013)

Just-Style (2009); Value Clothing Retailers Shine Amid Recession

http://www.just-style.com/analysis/value-clothing-retailers-shine-amid-
recession_id105395.aspx
(Date accessed 15/9/2013)

Kunde (2013) Western European Apparel Markets Sluggish but Strategic

http://www.just-style.com/analysis/western-european-apparel-market-sluggish-but-
strategic_id118304.aspx

Natracare (2013) Healthier by Nature

http://www.natracare.com/p139/en-GB/Our-Environment/Organic-Cotton.aspx
(Date accessed 17/9/2013)

UNICEF (2010); Child Labour in Bangladesh

http://www.unicef.org/bangladesh/Child_labour.pdf
(Date accessed 17/9/2013)

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APPENDIX 1: Cotton and the Environment

Benefit of Organic
Organic agriculture protects the health of people and the planet by reducing the overall
exposure to toxic chemicals from synthetic pesticides that can end up in the ground, air,
water and food supply, and that are associated with health consequences, from asthma to
cancer. Because organic agriculture doesn't use toxic and persistent pesticides, choosing
organic products is an easy way to help protect yourself.

Acreage estimates for the 2006 U.S. cotton crop show approximately 5,971 acres of certified
organic cotton were planted in the United States and in 2007, farmers planed 7,473 acres.
Internationally, Turkey and the United States are the largest organic cotton producers.

Demand is being driven by apparel and textile companies that are expanding their 100%
organic cotton program and developing programs that blend small percentages of organic
cotton with their conventional cotton products.

Here are some reasons why organic cotton production is important to the long-term health
of the planet.

Cotton is considered the world's 'dirtiest' crop due to its heavy use of insecticides, the most
hazardous pesticide to human and animal health. Cotton covers 2.5% of the world's
cultivated land yet uses 16% of the world's insecticides, more than any other single major
crop (1).

Aldicarb, parathion, and methamidopho, three of the most acutely hazardous insecticides to
human health as determined by the World Health Organization, rank in the top ten most
commonly used in cotton production. All but one of the remaining seven most commonly
used are classified as moderately to highly hazardous (1).

Aldicarb, cotton's second best selling insecticide and most acutely poisonous to humans, can
kill a man with just one drop absorbed through the skin, yet it is still used in 25 countries
and the US, where 16 states have reported it in their groundwater (1).

Insecticide use has decreased in the last 10 years with the introduction of Biotechnology
(BT), the fastest adapted yet most controversial new technology in the history of agriculture.
As of 2007, Bt cotton already commands 34% of total cotton cropland and 45% of world
cotton production. In Bt cotton, the insecticide is always present in the plant rather than
applied in periodic spraying sessions which will lead to rapid rates of pest immunities and
possibly produce superpests (3).

It can take almost a 1/3 pound of synthetic fertilizers to grow one pound of raw cotton in
the US, and it takes just under one pound of raw cotton to make one t-shirt (4).

Nitrogen synthetic fertilizers are considered the most detrimental to the environment,
causing leaching and runoff that freshwater habitats and wells (5).

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Nitrogen synthetic fertilizers are a major contributor to increased N2O emissions, which are
300 times more potent than CO2 as greenhouse gas (5), which is ominous for global
warming as synthetic fertilizer use is forecasted to increase roughly 2.5 times by mid-
century (6).

Organic farming methods use natural fertilizers, like compost and animal manure, that
recycles the nitrogen already in the soil rather than adding more, which reduces both
pollution and N2O emissions (5).

The cottonseed hull, where many pesticide residues have been detected, is a secondary
crop sold as a food commodity. It is estimated that as much as 65% of cotton production
ends up in our food chain, whether directly through food oil or indirectly through the milk
and meat of animals (1).

Cottonseed and field trash is usually sold for animal feed. Studies in Brazil and Nicaragua
have show traces of common cotton pesticides in cow milk, fueling concerns about chemical
residues on the cottonseed (1).

The developing world is home to 99% of all cotton farmers and produces 75% of the world's
total cotton, so it bears the brunt of cotton's environmental and health concerns (1).

Rural farmers lack the necessary safety equipment, protective clothing, and training for
handling hazardous pesticides. In India, one in ten pesticide applications results in three or
more reported health symptoms related to pesticide exposure (1).

Surveys show that rural cotton farmers often store pesticides in their bedrooms or in close
proximity to their food and some even reuse pesticide containers for drinking water. These
farmers and their families are at highest risk for acute pesticide poisoning as well as chronic
effects (1)

US cotton subsidies artificially lower cotton prices while production costs for Biotech (Bt)
seeds and pesticides are rising, causing financial stress in the rest of the world's cotton-
producing areas. India's once prestigious cotton belt is now referred to as the "suicide belt"
due to farmers unable to accept growing debts. Since 2003, the suicide rate has averaged
one every eight hours in Vidarba, India (7).

During the conversion of cotton into conventional clothing, many hazardous materials are
used and added to the product, including silicone waxes, harsh petroleum scours, softeners,
heavy metals, flame and soil retardants, ammonia, and formaldehyde-just to name a few
(8).

Many processing stages result in large amounts of toxic wastewater that carry away
residues from chemical cleaning, dyeing, and finishing. This waste depletes the oxygen out
of the water, killing aquatic animals and disrupting aquatic ecosystems (8).

The North American Organic Fiber Processing Standards prohibits these and similar
chemicals.

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Cotton uses approximately 25% of the world's insecticides and more than 10% of the
pesticides (including herbicides, insecticides, and defoliants.). (Allan Woodburn)

Approximately 10% of all pesticides sold for use in U. S. agriculture were applied to cotton in
1997, the most recent year for which such data is publicly available. (ACPA)

Fifty-five million pounds of pesticides were sprayed on the 12.8 million acres of
conventional cotton grown in the U.S. in 2003 (4.3 pounds/ acre), ranking cotton third
behind corn and soybeans in total amount of pesticides sprayed. (USDA)

Over 2.03 billion pounds of synthetic fertilizers were applied to conventional cotton in 2000
(142 pounds/acre), making cotton the fourth most heavily fertilized crop behind corn,
winter wheat, and soybeans. (USDA)

The Environmental Protection Agency considers seven of the top 15 pesticides used on
cotton in 2000 in the United States as "possible," "likely," "probable," or "known" human
carcinogens (acephate, dichloropropene, diuron, fluometuron, pendimethalin, tribufos, and
trifluralin). (EPA)

In 1999, a work crew re-entered a cotton field about five hours after it was treated with
tribufos and sodium chlorate (re-entry should have been prohibited for 24 hours). Seven
workers subsequently sought medical treatment and five have had ongoing health
problems. (California DPR)

Sources
1) EJF. (2007). The deadly chemicals in cotton. Environmental Justice Foundation in
collaboration with Pesticide Action Network UK: London, UK. ISBN No. 1-904523-10-2.
(2) Whitford, F., Pike, D., Burroughs, F., Hanger, G. Johnson, B., & Brassard, D. (2006). The
pesticide marketplace: Discovering and developing new products. Purdue University
Extension, report # PPP-71.
(3) Chaudhry, M.R., (2007, March 6-8). Biotech applications in cotton: Concerns and
challenges. Paper presented at the Regional Consultation on Biotech Cotton for Risk
Assessment and Opportunities for Small Scale Cotton Growers (CFC/ICAC 34FT), Faisalabad,
Pakistan.
(4) Lauresn, S. E., Hansen, J., Knudsen, H. H., Wenzel, H., Larsen, H. F., & Kristensen, F. M.
(2007). EDIPTEX: Environmental assessment of textiles. Danish Environmental Protection
Agency, working report 24.
(5) Kramer, S. B., Reganold, J. P., Glover, J. D., Bohannan, B. J. M., & Mooney, H. A. (2006).
Reduced nitrate leaching and enhanced denitrifier activity and efficiency in organically
fertilized soils. PNAS, 103 (12), 4522-4527.
(6) Tilman, D., Cassman, K., Matson, P., Naylor, R., & Polasky, S. (2002). Nature (418), 71-
677.
(7) de Sam Lazaro, F. (2007). The dying fields: India's forgotten farmers [Television series
episode]. In WNET (producer), Wide Angle. New York: Public Broadcasting Station.

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(8) Kadolph, S. J., & Langford, A. L. (2002). Textiles (9th ed.). Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice
Hall.

OTA's "2006 U.S. Organic Production & Marketing Trends" report.

Allen Woodburn Associates Ltd./Managing Resources Ltd., "Cotton: The Crop and its
Agrochemicals Market," 1995.
American Crop Protection Association, "1997 Total U. S. Sales by Crop Protection Product
Type and Market," 1998 ACPA Industry Profile.
California Department of Pesticide Regulation, "DPR Releases Data on 1999 Pesticide
Injuries," 2001.
U. S. Department of Agriculture, "Agricultural Chemical Usage: 2003 Field Crop Summary."
U. S. Environmental Protection Agency, "List of Chemicals Evaluated for Carcinogenic
Potential," 2001.

Source: http://www.ota.com/organic/environment/cotton_environment.html

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APPENDIX 2: A Guide to Cotton

Organic Cotton Vs. Traditional Cotton? Ordinary cotton is treated with a variety of chemicals
as it goes through the processes from plant to fabric, and residues remain even after
washing. This interesting and informative chart, found in Your Naturally Healthy Home,
follows the myriad of traditional cotton chemical treatments involved in cotton cultivation,
harvesting, scouring, dyeing, printing, and finishing, and compares them to the methods of
processing organic cotton.

Cultivation
*Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Synthetic chemical pesticides and fertilizers that may be highly toxic and
cause environmental problems.
Global Consequences: Chemicals cause decline in soil fertility and erosion; aerial spraying
affects other crops; high water use and water supplies polluted.
Health Consequences: Traces of chemicals remain and are potentially carcinogenic.

*Organic Cotton
Organic matter fertilizes soil and renews soil productivity; less water used.

Harvesting
* Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Herbicides used to defoliate and make picking easier.
Global Consequences: Chemicals pollute ground and rivers; harvesting machinery compacts
the ground and reduces soil productivity.
Health Consequences: Traces of chemicals remain and are potentially carcinogenic.

* Organic Cotton
Hand picked (no defoliation, machinery, or chemicals); hand picking means less waste.

Scouring, Washing, and Bleaching

* Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Chlorine (see xxx on care2), hydrogen peroxide, APEO (alkylphenoloxylate,
a hormone disrupter), EDTA (ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; binds with heavy metals in
rivers and streams and activates them), and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that react
with sunlight to form ground-level ozone.
Global Consequences: Synthetic disinfectants are slow to biodegrade; chlorine emissions
pollute atmosphere.
Health Consequences: Traces of chemicals are carcinogenic and can affect the nervous
system.

* Organic Cotton
Natural spinning oils biodegrade easily; natural processing such as potato starch used; no
chlorine used.

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Yarn Dyeing
* Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Compounds of iron, tin, potassium, and VOCs.
Global Consequences: Large quantities of water used for washing out dyes.
Health Consequences: Water polluted by heavy metals.

* Organic Cotton
Natural vegetable dyes or low-impact synthetic dyes; or cotton is color grown.

Printing
* Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Solvent-based inks containing heavy metals, benzene, and organochlorides.
Global Consequences: Waste water is polluted with heavy metals; emissions form harmful
ozone.
Health Consequences: Toxic residues cause problems of the central nervous system,
respiratory system, and skin, as well as head-aches, dizziness, and eye irritations.

* Organic Cotton
Natural vegetable and mineral inks and binders are used.

Finishing (easycare, stain resistance, fireproofing, mothproofing, softening, deodorizing,

anti-static, and mercerizing treatments)
* Traditional Cotton
Chemicals Used: Formaldehyde, caustic soda, sulfuric acid, bromines, urea resins,
sulfonamides, halogens, and bromines.
Global Consequences: Waste water has a high acid content; emissions to atmosphere.
Health Consequences: Chemical traces on the fabric can cause burning eyes, nose, and
throat, as well as difficulties with sleep, concentration, and memory. Can increase
susceptibility to cancer; emissions of chemicals from fabric increase with temperature.

* Organic Cotton
No enhancement fishes used.

Transportation
* Traditional Cotton
In addition to the above, there are environmental consequences of transporting huge
quantities of chemicals from the manufacturing plant to the place of cultivation, as well as
the additional journeys involved for all stages of cotton production, from the raw material to
place of manufacture, finishing, and then to distributor and user.

* Organic Cotton
Fewer processes so fewer journeys.

Source: http://www.care2.com/greenliving/a-guide-to-cotton.html

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Useful Links:
CAPTURED BY COTTON
http://www.stoplavorominorile.it/App_Media/Docs/CapturedByCotton.pdf

CARE WHAT YOU WEAR

http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_6347.cfm

COTTON YARN MANUFACTURING

http://www.ilo.org/oshenc/part-xiv/textile-goods-industry/item/880-cotton-yarn-
manufacturing

ENVIRONMENTAL JUSTICE FOUNDATION

http://ejfoundation.org/cotton/cotton-and-pesticides

FAIRTRADE INTERNATIONAL
http://www.fairtrade.net/what-is-fairtrade.html

GREEN CHOICES
http://www.greenchoices.org/green-living/clothes/environmental-impacts

INDIA A COTTON GIANT

http://www.textileworldasia.com/Articles/2010/September/
July_August_September_Issue/Country_Profile_India.html

ORGANIC COTTON
http://www.soilassociation.org/whatisorganic/organictextiles/organiccotton

WHY IT PAYS OFF TO BUY ORGANIC COTTON FROM FAIR TRADE

http://sustainability.gly.bris.ac.uk/soilcritzone/soil_functions/sf_html/from_plant_to_t-
shirt.pdf

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