Sew News - 2016-04
Sew News - 2016-04
Sew News - 2016-04
FIT
PERSONALITY
QUIZ
INSIDE!
P. 16
CREATE A
NAUTICAL
TOTE
+ FREE PATTERN!
P. 32
30
Beyond
Basic Skirts
TO CUSTOMIZE
FOR YOUR BODY
P. 44
Manipulate Darts
FOR A PERFECT FIT
+ FREE Practice Sloper
APRIL/MAY 2016
sewnews.com P. 53
For Every Occasion
Baby Lock and You.
A once-in-a-lifetime occasion calls for a unique outfit. The Destiny sewing and embroidery
machine comes with 641 built-in designs to inspire your imagination. Plus, with all the on-screen
editing tools, you can make each project one-of-a-kind. When you’re ready to explore endless
possibilities, there’s only one name to trust—Baby Lock.
www.babylock.com
CONTENTS
FEATURES
32 MARITIME TOTE
Create a cool canvas tote
with rope handles.
35 TRUE COLLARS
Learn three methods for
sewing crisp collars.
38 UPTOWN FOLK
Embellish a peasant blouse
with hand-embroidered details.
50 PICNIC IN
THE PARK DRESS
Sew a sweet dress with
a unique scallop insert.
53 METHODS TO MASTER:
DART MANIPULATION
Move, remove and convert
darts like a pro.
APRIL/MAY
ISSUE 352
2016
26
2 SEWNEWS.COM APRIL/MAY 2016
38
62
ON THE COVER
32 Join our
SEW-ALONG.
Get the pattern at
shopsewitall.com.
50 35
COLUMNS IN EVERY ISSUE
16 JOI OF FITTING: The Theory of Fit 4 Editor’s Letter 64 Staff Picks
22 BASIC SKILLS: Patternmaking 6 Experts 65 Off the Shelf
26 PATTERN PLAY: Qipao Dress 8 Online Extras 70 Ask the Editor
58 CREATIVE SPACE: Melissa Mora 10 From You 71 Clippings
62 SEW & TELL: Magic Bias Dress 12 Reader Tips 72 Last Laugh
66 FASHION FETE: Work Wear 14 Cool Tools
68 HOME COUTURE: Art Deco
SEWNEWS.COM 3
EDITOR
DEAR READERS,
It’s finally skirt weather, and we’re taking full advantage by bringing
you skirt styles that are versatile enough to wear on a warm spring
day or layer with tights and boots on days that aren’t so sunny.
I love making skirts because they’re generally easy to fit, don’t
require too much fabric (or time), and I’m able to choose just about
any fabric type, color or print. But I am a bit challenged in the styling
department. I may have the perfect top to pair with a skirt, but then
there’s the matter of shoes and accessories. Most of the time I choose
my go-to flats or boots, and I’m lucky if I get out of the house with
any jewelry other than my wedding rings. When I have help and can
really style an outfit well, I certainly have more confidence. It never
occurred to me that this process should begin before I’ve made my
skirt, rather than after!
The first of our new “Fit Finder” columns is all about skirts, and it’s a
must-read for those of you who want to understand which skirt types
fit and flatter your body best. If an A-line skirt just isn’t flattering on
you, all the styling in the world won’t make a difference. Turn to page
44 to learn more and to find a plethora of skirt styles to choose from.
Once you’ve discovered your go-to skirt style, hop on over to page
47 to find two brand-new skirt patterns, made exclusively for Sew
News. Joi Mahon’s gored skirt fits like a glove and is easily dressed up
or down. Christine Haynes’ Anya skirt is a full circle that looks great in
your favorite cotton or voile print.
Speaking of embellishments, hand embroidery is one of my
favorites. The stunning blouse on page 38 was embroidered all
by hand. Sure you could cheat a little and create the blouse with
machine embroidery, but the soft plush Perle cotton gives the blouse
a bohemian flair that’s not easily replicated by machine. Find all the
how-tos and get the free pattern details on page 39.
Happy Sewing,
Ellen March
WHAT’S NEXT?
GET YOUR SUMMER SEWING FIX WITH THE NEXT ISSUE OF SEW NEWS. FIND FUN GARMENTS FOR POOLSIDE PARTIES;
MAKE A TRAVEL BAG THAT’S SLEEK AND CHIC; AND LEARN TIPS AND TRICKS FOR SEWING A LACY COVER-UP. PLUS
STYLE THE DADS IN YOUR LIFE WITH QUICK FATHER’S DAY GIFTS. PICK UP THE JUNE/JULY ISSUE ON NEWSSTANDS
MAY 17, 2016.
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EXPERTS Find out about the talented experts featured in this
issue, and visit their websites for more fun extras.
6 S E W N E W S.CO M A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
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ONLINE EXTRAS
Visit the
Sew News blog sewnews.com
email: [email protected]
at sewnews.com EDITORIAL
for giveaways, Community Content Director Ellen March
Senior Editor Amanda Carestio
tutorials and Managing Editor Veronica Graham
more! Technical Editor & Illustrator Eliane Pinto
Online Editor Jill Case
Editorial Assistant Jessica Ziebarth
ART
Creative Director Sue Dothage
Graphic Designer Danielle Fay
Photography Jessica Grenier,
Donald Scott,
Mellisa Karlin Mahoney
Photo Stylist Tina Gill,
Pam Chavez
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READER REMARKS
twitter.com/ Check out the latest comments on our Facebook fan page:
sewnews “I still have patterns from the 1960’s. Just “I have a baby dress and bonnet pattern
can’t part with a good pattern.” Sue B. that was my mother's and cost only 35
instagram.com/ cents at the time. I still use it.” Jodi L.
sewnews “When I worked in a fabric store, I’d
get older men in all the time saying, “I LOVE Tula Pink!! The quilt collections
flickr.com/groups/ ‘I’m looking for a gray-haired lady....’ I [at keepsakequilting.com] are beautiful!”
sewnews would usually tell them they could keep Karen P.
whichever one of them they could
convince to leave the store.” Colleen P.
10 S E W N E W S.CO M A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
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READER TIPS
1. RED LIGHT, GREEN LIGHT
Whenever you have to stop sewing
a project, leave it on the machine
at the beginning of the next step.
1 3
When you come back to resume the
project, you won’t have to wonder
where you left off.
Judy D., Facebook
2. BLUE GLUE
Utilize Elmer’s School Gel Glue
for basting. The glue creates
less bunching than pins, and it
completely washes out.
Jesi J., Facebook
4. INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH
Use an industrial tape measure for
hemming large projects. It’s easy to lock
and bend when altering draperies, which
is simpler than marking every 60 inches.
Emily P., Facebook
5. SAVED SELVAGE
When working on a project that calls
for narrow twilltape, use a thin fabric
5
selvage strip. It’s convenient and
almost always available.
Margaret C., Facebook
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SEWNEWS.COM 15
of FITTING
The Theory
of FIT BY JOI MAHON
Explore fit from a different perspective.
16 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
MOSTLY A’S: MOSTLY B’S: MOSTLY C’S:
The Measuring Tape The Pincushion The Scissors
You have years of experience and With the increase in social media and You’re the confident sewist who sews
your skills mostly stem from unlimited availability of sewing well and consistently, like a good pair
traditional home sewing, 4-H or information, self-taught sewists are a of reliable scissors. You sew regularly
home economics, where you large and growing market. Eager to and have mastered many techniques.
learned commonly taught methods learn and try new skills, you poke When it comes to fitting, you’ve read
of sewing and fit. You may have around for inspiration wherever you every fit book and taken every fit
branched out to different sewing can find it. You may identify with class. You’re familiar with numerous
methods, such as quilting or DIY-ers, young moms, new sewists of fitting methods, yet you still have
embroidery, but when returning to any age, trendsetters and more. You challenges that are never solved.
garment sewing you’ve found the find tutorials in books, videos, You may continue trying the same
body is quite different to fit. You may magazines and most often on the methods because of how you were
have found yourself saying, “I used to Internet. You often look to taught; however, your body and/or
sew a pattern right out of the experienced sewists for fitting advice the patterns you’re using are different.
envelope, but now I don’t fit any (or any advice). With a body that As difficult as it is to change and
pattern size.” While it’s no reflection requires pattern-fitting knowledge, deviate from your go-to fit method,
on sewing skill, achieving the perfect you’re often seeking trendy styles and you may need to try something
fit seems impossible because the a creative outlet. You ask lots of unconventional for the desired results.
techniques you once relied upon questions and are willing to try Understanding your sewing mindset
don’t give you desired results. This is anything new to immerse yourself and personality helps determine
a common issue in sewing, and it's into sewing. Generally, you have no what might be holding you back
very discouraging for any sewist. It’s preconceived notions about sewing from a well-fitting garment. Of
difficult to relinquish favorite and fit and you jump right into course, there’s no need to change
methods, but implementing a new learning. The challenge is finding the things that work well, but consider
skill and having it work can be right sources to turn to rather than trying a new technique for the areas
refreshing for a veteran sewist, stumbling upon unverified and where you struggle.
especially when viewing the before untrustworthy information,
and after results. particularly on the Internet.
SEWNEWS.COM 17
THE MODERN BODY MYTH #1: Picking the
It’s fascinating to know and under- right pattern size is the
stand the underlying factors that
Not all areas on a most important step.
affect fit. Over the years, changes
pattern need ease. Allow include, but are not limited to, TRUTH: A pattern is a guide to
a generous 1” seam overall larger bodies, heavier bodies, create a style, not custom-fit to
allowance all over and more fatty deposits, changes in anyone’s body. A pattern size is
2” in the side seam stature and increased musculature. simply a name given to a group of
as a general rule. The traditional hourglass figure is measurements. A pattern won’t fit
often outdated, though that shape perfectly out of the envelope, and
is what most fit methods refer to for forget using only the bust, waist and
standard adjustments. Many pattern hips as a fit gauge. Use those
companies developed their basic measurements to select a size range
pattern shapes and sizing decades only. A lot of sewing and fitting
ago and fitted them to those issues are blamed on the pattern,
smaller standard body types. when most often, the problem isn’t
Clothing was also not as disposable the pattern at all. In fact, the pattern
as in generations past, so sewists size really doesn’t matter. Always
spent more time sewing fewer select a pattern close to your
garment types, which were then measurements, as that’s the purpose
worn over shape-giving foundation of the pattern guide. Your body
garments. For the most part, our might be a size 14 on the bodice
bodies aren’t trained that way today, front, a size 18 on the lower-body
and there’s a much wider variety of front, a size 12 on the bodice back
clothing to fit the broad spectrum and a 20 on the lower-body back. In
of figure types for all ages. any given pattern envelope, certain
pieces won’t fit or match your body
and will need adjusting. Either
5 FITTING THEORIES unnecessarily purchase four different
DEMYSTIFIED patterns, or select the pattern closest
Fit can seem much more compli- to your measurements and then
cated than necessary. It’s a skill that easily scale it to create a custom
takes practice, but it's attainable for pattern to fit your unique body.
anyone who tries. Fitting success can Selecting a pattern is less about
happen easily, quickly and efficiently, purchasing the perfect size and
and it’s not necessary to memorize a more about learning how to work
dictionary full of fit issues and their with the pattern you have.
solutions, many of which aren’t even
needed. Instead, approach fit from a
common sense perspective.
18 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
MYTH #2: Sewing a fit with women wearing more uniform
foundation garments. During this time,
sample requires extra
a common pattern adjustment was to
time and money. increase or decrease size by adding or
TRUTH: This step actually saves subtracting at the side seams or by
you both. Expert fitters know that a fit dividing adjustments evenly amongst
sample is a must for achieving the all seams. For example, to add 4” to
perfect fit. This step can’t be skipped, the waist of a dress, divide that amount
but consider the process. Unless you’re by four and add 1” to each front, back
doing haute couture sewing, it isn’t and side seam. Numerically, this
necessary to hand baste or add example adds up, meaning the
pockets and decorative details to a fit garment will fit around the body, but
sample. Fitting needs to be fast and that doesn't mean the garment will fit
efficient. Instead: the body. These methods may have Always sew a fit sample,
worked when all women wore girdles unpinning and adjusting
• Quickly cut major pattern pieces and the same style dress, but for
from inexpensive muslin or a fabric
for desired comfort.
today’s bodies, this approach is
similar to the final garment. Incorporate wide seam
outdated. For example, the front of
allowances, which are
• Sew only the major seams (princess, the body might need 3” and the back
might only need 1” to fit and contour.
easily trimmed off
side seams and shoulders) and pin
the openings closed.
the final garment.
• Don’t add plackets or collars. MYTH #4: Proper fitting
• Pin and adjust seams to determine is a time-intensive process
ease, and remove any excess if done right.
wrinkles to create a smooth-looking
garment.
TRUTH: A very common method 5 PATTERN
taught in fit classes involves matching
Once you have a polished fit sample,
ADJUSTMENT TIPS
a flat pattern to a few body measure-
carefully mark all the changes or final ments, such as the bust, waist and 1. Adjust vertical areas first.
seamlines on the muslin. Then use the hips. Because tissue isn’t similar to 2. Adjust horizontal areas next.
muslin as the final pattern for cutting fabric in drape, this results in an 3. Pay attention to the bust curve.
and sewing the fashion fabric. ill-fitting muslin sample that requires
4. Polish the outer pattern edges
more work. Next steps include cutting
only after scaling the pattern.
MYTH #3: Always begin by and slashing the muslin where it’s tight,
inserting fabric in the holes to fill the 5. Don’t attach sleeves to a fit
adjusting at the side seams. sample until the torso pattern
gaps, taking in areas that are too big,
is fitted correctly.
TRUTH: When patterns were first making a new muslin sample and
developed, bodies were much more beginning the process again. This
standard in size, and styles were limited process does indeed work, but it’s very
SEWNEWS.COM 19
time consuming and discouraging for most breast tissue either above the
inexperienced fitters. Instead of apex (quadrant 1), to the inside of the
sewing a fit sample and expecting apex (quadrant 2), below the apex CUSTOM SCALE
residual work, take five minutes to (quadrant 3) or toward the side
scale the paper pattern and create a (quadrant 4. Simply moving the dart
ANY PATTERN TO
fit sample that matches the propor- or increasing the cup doesn’t FIT YOUR BODY
tion of your body. This process only account for these differences, and if Apply this process to any
takes one muslin sample. From there, the adjustment must taper back into pattern, any size, any style.
refine the details and begin sewing the original seam, it might cause you Measure the pattern. Mea-
with the fashion fabric. to miss an important area of fit in the suring smaller areas of fit is
transition. FBAs also never address more precise than measur-
MYTH #5: The full- the bust curve, a key area of fit right ing large generic areas. Think
below the apex and above the under of the body and pattern as a
bust adjustment, or FBA,
bustline. A more accurate and precise puzzle. Each smaller piece on
is the best way to fit a way to target fitting the bust area is the pattern, if laid directly on
top for a large bust. the Bust Quadrant Method, which the body, should match that
targets the four areas of the breast exact area on the body. For
TRUTH: FBAs and most bust- listed above. Using the pattern scaling
example, instead of measur-
fitting techniques revolve around ing the full bust, measure
method, it’s easy to grade the pattern
adjusting a cup size. If you compare a apex to apex and apex to side
to allow space in exactly the area seam for the front, and then
pattern with different cup sizes
needed. across the back from one side
marked, there isn’t a lot of difference.
The markings are usually derived seam to the other. The three
measurements add up to the
from a computer-generated grade to
full bust, but the smaller areas
the cup. The problem with only
allow for more accurate fitting.
addressing cup size is that this
method doesn’t address the size and Measure your body in those
same areas and compare. If
placement of the actual breast tissue.
the pattern measurements
A C cup, for example, might have
match, then that individual
pattern piece will fit. If the
pattern is bigger or smaller
than the body, adjust the
pattern to match the body.
Visit Designer Joi's blog for helpful
Cut through the pattern center
how-tos, fit information and and increase or decrease
garment fitting solutions at from the center to adjust an
perfectfitblog.fashion. individual pattern piece. Keep
in mind that this isn't the
same slashing and spreading
technique used to flat-pattern
different styles. This technique
is actually a form of grading
with a more visual approach.
For more on Joi’s Use a ruler to blend the outer
approach to fit, grab a edges of the pattern, darts,
copy of Create the Perfect necklines and armholes.
Fit at shopsewitall.com.
20 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Create 21 Fun, Feminine Looks
that capture the essence of summer!
Sew 21
Easy, Breezy
Dresses
for Women
and Girls
PATTERNMAKING
& DESIGN M AKING YOUR OWN PATTERNS allows you to instill
your personal style, fitting preferences and design
sense into your sewing endeavors. With a basic sloper, you
can create custom patterns with virtually endless variations.
22 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
START WITH A SLOPER FITTING FOUNDATION your chosen style. (See Wearing Ease
A sloper, sometimes referred to as a The first step of pattern drafting is to Minimum below and Design Ease in
block, is the foundation of pattern create a fitting shell from the sloper. Commercial Patterns on page 24.)
drafting. It’s a basic flat pattern (either A fitting shell is a garment produced Mark any fit adjustments on the
drafted by you or purchased) that from the sloper to assess the sloper fit. fitting shell. Make the changes to the
represents your measurements. When you try on the shell, it should sloper, and refit the shell until you’re
A sloper allows you to begin from a fit close to your body, almost like a absolutely satisfied. It’s worth spending
correct and consistent origin each second skin. After creating actual extra time on this step because you’ll
time you draft a new pattern. The patterns from the sloper, you’ll add save a lot of time in the long run.
sloper has just enough ease added so the design ease that’s necessary for
that you don’t split a seam when you
sit down or reach for something, also
called wearing ease. It doesn’t have
seam allowances, design details or
WEARING EASE MINIMUM
any style lines other than fitting darts.
Slopers can be bodice slopers, used
for blouses and two-piece dresses;
torso slopers, used for one-piece
dresses, jackets and coats (both
bodice and torso slopers can be
one-dart, two-dart or dartless); sleeve
slopers, made in conjunction with
bodice and torso slopers to develop
different sleeve styles; pant slopers,
used to draft trousers, jeans and
slacks; and skirt slopers, used for
skirts, two-piece dresses and, in some
cases, to draft a pant sloper.
Different slopers are necessary
when using different fabric types.
A sloper created for woven fabrics
will have one or two fitting darts to
accommodate the body’s curvature.
However, knit fabric has inherent
stretch, so while a knit sloper may
have some shaping at the side seam,
darts aren’t needed. Slopers may also
vary for woven fabrics that contain
spandex. A basic woven sloper is used
as the starting point in this article.
SEWNEWS.COM 23
BASIC SKILLS
DESIGN EASE IN
COMMERCIAL PATTERNS
Once the fitting shell is refined and When developing a new pattern principle of patternmaking. Darts
the sloper is finalized, begin drafting idea, it’s often easier to work with a provide a three-dimensional shape that
patterns. Use the sloper to create sloper that’s quarter or half size rather allows patterns to fit over the body
infinite pattern variations. Manipulate than full size. It’s faster and simpler to curves. Darts eliminate excess fullness
the darts, add fullness or create new draft a new pattern in a smaller scale, in areas, such as the waist and side
style lines, such as yokes or princess and it saves paper and fabric during seam, once the pattern has accommo-
seams, as the fun of making your own the initial mock-ups. Working in half dated the areas like the bust, shoulder
patterns begins. size gives you a feel for how the blades and hips. In pattern drafting,
pattern is constructed as well as an dart fullness can be moved, multiplied,
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT idea of the steps you’ll need to take to divided or combined according to your
Brainstorm a garment design. Consider obtain the desired result. When you’ve design preferences. Darts may also be
the style lines and details, such as experimented with the smaller scale converted to tucks, pleats and princess
closures, collars, cuffs, sleeves, hem sloper and noted what alterations seams using various methods.
length and shape. Is the garment very you’ll need to make in full size,
There are two basic ways to
fitted, a casual fit or loose and unfitted? multiply all of the measurements by
manipulate darts: “pivot-and-slide” or
What’s the basic silhouette? What four (to convert from quarter size) or
“slash-and-spread.” The method you
fabric will you use? Sketch out your two (to convert from half size).
choose depends on the desired result.
design ideas and jot down notes about To move darts from one place to
any alterations or additions. Visualize DART MANIPULATION another on the sloper or pattern, or to
the changes that you’ll need to make Outside of basic alterations, such as close a dart, pivot-and-slide is usually
to your sloper in order to accomplish changing the overall length or adding a the most useful. To add style lines or
the desired result. new seam, dart manipulation is the first put in pleats or multiple darts, slash-
and-spread is the best choice.
24 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Expand Your Sewing Know-How
Go to craftonlineuniversity.comto
browse the available courses today!
gning
Do you dream of deprsios
fashions like the ?
Have you always wondered what
fashion school would be like?
Look to Fashion School Crash Course, starring
six of your favorite Project Runway alumni!
photo by Kurt Aper
ll
photo by Steve Squa
Zaca
photo by Anderson
Qipao
Dress
BY ANA JANKOVIC
26 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES 1
• Basic shift dress pattern with
vertical waist darts and horizontal
bust darts (such as McCall’s 7085)
• Dress fabric & fusible interfacing
(amount according to pattern
envelope; approximately 1½ yards
of 54”-wide fabric)
• Zipper & notions
(according to pattern)
• Coordinating fabric (enough
to cut 7 yards of 1¼” bias strips)
• 7 yards of piping cord
• All-purpose thread
• Pattern or tracing paper
• Rulers: clear & curved
• 5 Chinese knots to match
or fabric to make your own
PREPARE
Cut out the pattern pieces (1).
2
Before beginning alterations, pin-fit
or make a fit sample of the pattern.
Make any necessary fit adjustments
to the pattern, and then trace a copy
on paper, transferring all markings.
ALTER
Draw a slightly curved horizontal
line at the waistline on the front and
back panels.
If the base pattern doesn't include
raglan sleeves, draw a line connecting
the armhole with the neckline.
Slightly curve the front centerline
toward the neckline, starting at the
bustline (2).
Draw a 1”-wide button placket at the
center front.
SEWNEWS.COM 27
PATTERN PLAY
CUT
From the dress fabric, cut two front
bodice panels, one front skirt panel on
the fold, two back bodice panels, two
back skirt panels, two sleeves, two
4
sleeve facings, two armhole facings,
two collars on the fold, two front
neckline facings, one back neckline
facing on the fold, one button placket
and two belt panels.
28 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
From the remaining dress fabric, cut
four 3¼”x20” strips for the belt band
and two short bias strips for the
sleeve binding.
Cut 1¼” bias strips from the
coordinating fabric.
From the fusible interfacing, cut two
front neckline facings, one back
neckline facing, one button placket, 5
one collar, two belt panels and four
belt bands. Apply the interfacing to
the wrong side of the corresponding
fabric pattern pieces, following the
manufacturer's instructions.
CONSTRUCT
To create piping, fold the bias band in
half widthwise with wrong sides
together. Place the cord inside the
band, aligning the cord with the
foldline. Using a piping foot and
working as close to the piping cord as
possible, stitch along the band from
the right side using matching thread.
Stitch the bust and waist darts on the 6 7
bodice panels with right sides
together; press.
Stitch the front panel to the back
panel at the side seams with right
sides together; press.
With right sides together, stitch the
upper 2” of the center-back seam. 8
Leave the rest of the seam free.
Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise
with right sides together and sew the
shoulder seams; press.
Hem the sleeve, and then press.
Repeat to finish the remaining sleeve.
Place the piping along the straight
sleeve-edge right side, aligning the
raw edges; pin.
With right sides together, stitch one
sleeve facing to the sleeve along the
lower edge, stitching as close as
possible to the piping cord.
SEWNEWS.COM 29
PATTERN PLAY
Sandwich the button placket Turn the belt right side out, and then
between the bodice center-front right hand stitch the opening closed; press.
30 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Check out the latest Sew with Me
product offerings at shopsewitall.com!
Find exclusive kits, videos and patterns
by your favorite sewing stars.
CHRISTINE HAYNES
OF CHRISTINE HAYNES PATTERNS
Choose from four multi-size garment patterns and
learn how to navigate the tricky techniques in four brought to you by
easy-to-follow videos. Find the patterns alone and
video/pattern bundles at ShopSewItAll.com.
JOI MAHON
OF DRESS FORMS DESIGN
Learn tips and tricks for creating four exclusive brought to you by
32 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
FIND THE
MARITIME TOTE
PATTERN at
shopsewitall.com
after the
expiration date.
SUPPLIES
• ½ yard of natural canvas
• ¼ yard each of red
& blue canvas
• 1/3 yard of cotton lining
• 2 yards of ½”-diameter cotton
or hemp rope
• Eight size 24 (5/8") heavy-duty
snap fasteners
• Fabric glue (See “Source.”)
• Denim sewing machine needle
• Removable fabric marker
• Snap fastener setting tool
• Hammer
PREPARE
Download the Maritime Tote pattern
from sewnews.com/web_extras for
free until May 31, 2016. Print and cut
out the pattern pieces. Cut the rope in half and tie a knot 1
at each end, leaving a short tail.
CUT Apply fabric glue to the ends. Set
From the natural canvas, cut four aside to dry (1).
tote tops on the fold.
From the blue canvas, cut one tote
CONSTRUCT
With right sides together, stitch one
base and two exterior strips.
natural tote top and one red exterior
From the red canvas, cut two strip together along the natural lower
exterior strips. edge and red upper edge. Stitch a
From the lining fabric, cut one tote blue exterior strip to the red lower
base and two lining strips. edge; designate this piece as the tote
front. Repeat to stitch the tote back.
SEWNEWS.COM 33
Stitch the lining strip upper edge to
one natural tote top lower edge with
right sides together. Press the seams
down. Topstitch the lining 1/8” from POCKET TALK
Follow these steps to create a
the seam. Repeat to stitch the
hidden in-seam zipper pocket
lining back.
along the tote front.
With right sides together, stitch the
tote front to the tote back along the CUT
side seams. From the lining fabric, cut two
4”x5” rectangles.
Stitch the lining front and back right
sides together along the side seams.
CONSTRUCT
Press open the seams.
Press open the zipper as
With right sides together, pin the directed on the zipper packaging.
tote base to the tote front and back,
Using the invisible zipper foot,
aligning the base notches with the
stitch the zipper to the natural
side seams (2); stitch. Repeat to stitch
tote top, beginning 3” from the
the lining base, leaving a 4” opening left side edge. Repeat to stitch
along the front edge. the opposite zipper tape to the
With right sides together, place the red canvas piece. Trim off the
lining inside the tote, matching the excess zipper.
side seams and curves. Stitch the
Using the standard zipper foot
upper edge using a ¼” seam. Clip the and beginning ½” from the
curves and corners. Turn the tote edge, stitch a pocket piece to
right side out through the opening. either side of the zipper seam
Press open the seam. allowance.
Set the snaps in place as marked on Stitch along the pocket
the pattern using the snap setting rectangles open edges using
2
tool and hammer. a ½” seam allowance.
Position the rope handles and snap
With the tote top and red
the tote top closed to secure the
canvas right sides together,
handles. stitch to complete the seam on
either side of the zipper. Press
SOURCE
open the seam.
Thermoweb provided the Fabric Fuse Liquid
Adhesive: thermowebonline.com
34 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
True
Collars
BY DEBORAH MOEBES
WATCH
Watch Deborah demonstrate
these techniques in
“True Collars,” episode 907
of Sew it All, available at
shopsewitall.com.
SEWNEWS.COM 35
SUPPLIES
• Shirt pattern with collar
& collar stand
• Fabric & notions (according
to pattern envelope)
• All-purpose thread
• Lightweight fusible interfacing
free. Clip the points, and then turn the Align the un-interfaced collar stand
collar right side out. Press, favoring the with the shirt neckline edge, ensuring
PREPARE
seam toward the un-interfaced collar. the collar stand edge aligns with the
Download the True Collars pattern
shirt placket edge; pin. Manually lower
from sewnews.com/web_extras to If desired, topstitch the collar finished
the needle into the collar at the edge.
practice the techniques. edges. Baste the neckline edge using a
Stitch, backstitching at the beginning
¼” seam allowance.
From the shirt fabric and interfacing, and end.
cut out all pieces denoted by the Fold the interfaced collar stand
Press the seam allowances toward the
pattern guidesheet. straight edge ½” toward the wrong
collar. Align the collar-stand folded edge
side; press.
Stitch the shirt shoulder seams and over the neckline stitching, encasing the
center-front placket according to the With the right side facing up, place raw edges. With the wrong side facing
pattern guidesheet. Staystitch the shirt the interfaced collar stand on a flat up, edgestitch the collar-stand perimeter,
neckline edge at the seamline; clip work surface. Place the collar wrong closing the neckline opening. Or hand
the neckline curve at 1” intervals. side down over the collar stand, stitch the neckline opening closed.
Attach the collar to the shirt before aligning the collar neckline edge with
stitching the side seams and inserting the collar stand curved edge. Place the ALTERNATE METHOD A
the sleeves. un-interfaced collar stand right side Assemble the collar following the
down over the collar, aligned with the Traditional Method, up to and including
Adhere the corresponding interfacing
first collar stand. the basting step. With right sides
pieces to one collar and one collar-
stand wrong sides, ensuring the Stitch the collar stand curved edge, together, stitch the un-interfaced collar
interfacing is ½” smaller on all sides beginning at the un-interfaced stand to the shirt neckline.
than the fabric. collar-stand edge and catching the
collar neckline edge in the seam (1).
TRADITIONAL METHOD Trim the interfaced collar-stand seam
Trim 1/8” from each short straight allowances to 1/8”. Trim the collar seam 1
edge and along the long edge of the allowances slightly longer. Clip the
collar without interfacing. seam allowances along the curves.
Turn the collar stand right side out,
With right sides together, align the
using a chopstick or point turner to
collar pieces. Beginning along one
push out the curves; press. Ensure the
short edge, stitch the collar outer
collar-stand seam allowance beyond
edges, gently pulling the collar corner
the folded edge is pressed toward the
to align the raw edges and pivoting at
wrong side at the stitching line.
the corners. Leave the neckline edge
36 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Sandwich and stitch the collar
between the two collar stands and
stitch following the Traditional Method.
Grade the seam allowances. Turn the
collar stand right side out; press the
seam allowances toward the collar
stand. Edgestitch the collar stand
perimeter, closing the neckline
opening with the stitches.
ALTERNATE METHOD B
With right sides together, align
the interfaced collar stand with the
interfaced collar lower edge. Stitch,
and then press open the seam
allowances. Repeat to stitch the
remaining collar and collar stand.
Fold the interfaced collar stand
straight edge ½” toward the wrong
side; press.
With right sides together, align the
un-interfaced collar-stand neckline
edge with the shirt neckline edge.
Place the interfaced collar right sides
together with the un-interfaced collar,
matching seamlines and raw edges.
Stitch the neckline, making sure not
to catch the collar-stand fold in the
seam. Stitch the collar pieces,
beginning and ending at the opposite
neckline opening. Clip the corners and
trim or grade the seam allowances.
Turn the collar and stand right side out;
press. Align the collar-stand fold over
the neckline stitching. Edgestitch the
collar and stand perimeter, closing the
neckline opening (2). Or hand stitch
the neckline opening closed.
SEWNEWS.COM 37
Uptown
FOLK
BY KATALIN LOVASZ
38 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
SUPPLIES
• Medium- to lightweight linen neckline down to the notch mark to
1
(See chart below for yardage denote the front neckline opening.
requirements; see "Sources.") Staystitch each sleeve perimeter, C
• All-purpose thread working ¼” from the edge. Repeat
to staystitch the back pattern A C
• Cotton hand-embroidery thread
piece neckline.
or Perle cotton (See "Sources.")
Staystitch the front perimeter,
• 1/8”-wide elastic
sewing two additional lines ¼” from B
• Removable fabric marker either side of the marked neckline
opening. At the base of the marked
PREPARE opening, pivot to create a V to join
Choose fabric with some drape but the two lines. (1).
good stability and stitch recovery.
Test this by sticking a pin through the EMBROIDER 2
fabric, removing the pin and pulling Copy the Uptown embroidery
the fabric in both directions. If the template on page 43 for the neckline
pinhole disappears, the fabric is well and the sleeves. 4”
suited for embroidery.
Trace the design onto the corre- 1¼”
Download and print the Uptown sponding pattern pieces using a
Folk pattern from sewnews.com/ lightbox or carbon paper.
web_extras for free until May 31,
Position the neckline embroidery 4”
2016. The pattern will be available
1¼ to 1½” from the sides and lower
for purchase at shopsewitall.com
opening curve; trace.
after the expiration date.
Position the sleeve embroidery 4”
Cut out the pattern pieces, transfer-
from the sleeve lower edge, centered
ing all pattern markings.
across the sleeve centerline; trace (2). 3 Stem Stitch
CUT Leaving a 3”-long tail along the
From the blouse fabric, cut one fabric wrong side to later weave into 1. 2. 3.
front pattern piece on the fold, one the embroidery wrong side, begin
back pattern piece on the fold, and stitching. Create the stems, vines,
two sleeves. neckline and shape outlines using
a stem stitch (3).
Using a removable fabric marker, 4. 5.
draw a line starting at the center-front
13/4 13/4 6. 7.
XL
L 15/8 15/8
M 11/2 1½
S 11/8 1¼
XS 1 11/8
SEWNEWS.COM 39
4 Satin Stitch
1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
5
7. 8. 9.
6
To create a flower shape using a Press and steam the embroidery
satin stitch, place the inner ends of repeatedly until the stitches are
the center flower stitches closer smooth and set.
together, and slightly fan out the
outer ends (4). The inner end of CONSTRUCT
some of the stitches may even All pattern pieces include a 3/8” seam
overlap (5). allowance, 3/8” hem allowance at the
neckline and sleeves, and 7/8” hem
To create a star-flower shape using
allowance at the lower edges.
a stem stitch (as featured on the
sleeves), create sharp points by Matching the notches on the sleeve
plunging the needle to the embroi- front seam and front bodice, stitch
dery wrong side at the tip. Flip the the sleeves to the front bodice.
embroidery to the wrong side and Repeat to stitch the sleeves to the
loop the thread through the back back bodice.
of the second-to-last stitch. Then Finish the seam allowances using a
bring the needle back to the fabric zigzag stitch, serger or French
right side at the tip (6). seams, and then press the seams
When the embroidery is complete, toward the bodice.
remove the transfer marks by soaking
the fabric, and then air dry.
40 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Roll the sleeve hem toward the
7 8
wrong side following the staystitch-
ing. Finger-press and secure with a
blanket stitch, using a contrasting A
embroidery thread color (7); press
using steam.
Using a 3mm straight stitch or long,
narrow zigzag stitch, attach a piece
of elastic 7/8” from one finished
sleeve hem along the wrong side
(8). Repeat to stitch elastic to the
remaining sleeve. C
Stitch the side seams, and then
finish the seam allowances. Press the
seam allowance toward the back.
Tack down the side seam allowances Using the staystitching as a guide,
at the sleeve hem. roll the neckline edge toward the B
Cut the neckline keyhole opening wrong side. Finger-press and secure
between the staystitching lines, with a hand embroidered blanket
taking care not to cut through the stitch, using the same thread color as
V-tip at the lower edge. the sleeve hem.
SEWNEWS.COM 41
Blanket stitch around the neckline
9 as well as the keyhole opening. Place
three stitches into one hole at the
corners of the keyhole opening and
one stitch straight down at the
bottom of the v-tip (9).
Once the neckline is finished, create
two small button loops at each
keyhole opening corner (10).
Create an 11” to 12” neckline tie by
cutting two 30” lengths of embroi-
dery thread. Fold the threads in half,
and then secure the fold on a
tablecloth by placing a pin at the
midpoint. Twirl the ends of the
threads on each side to the left
(counter-clockwise) with both hands,
and then fold the thread ends over
each other clockwise (11). Knot the
10 twist 1” from each end and trim the
ends. Pull the twist through one of
the button loops at the neckline, and
then knot again.
Fold the blouse lower edge ¼”
toward the wrong side; press. Fold
the lower edge another ¾” toward
the wrong side; press. Stitch close to
the first fold.
SOURCES
Presencia carries #8 Finca Perle cotton in colors
Red - 1902, Blue - 3411, Orange - 1237, Yellow -
1137, Pink - 2333 and Green - 4565: colonialneedle.
com/presencia-america.
11
30”
42 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Uptown Folk
Embroidery Design Template
gn for sleeves:
SEWNEWS.COM 43
NEW
Mini-
Series!
FIT FINDER
Skirts
BY RAE CUMBIE
44 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
1 2
SEWNEWS.COM 45
WAIST TREATMENTS
Knit fabrics are suitable for any skirt With an understanding of the basic skirt well at the waist, it'll shift around and
shape. Some shaping can be shapes and their fitting components, succumb to gravity.
built into the seams, but most of the the next step in designing your ideal
Examine the three waist placements
shaping comes from the stretch of skirt is to consider waist treatments and
on each body type shown (6). Identify
the fabric. Knit skirts are typically snug placement. Because the female form is
your body type and your waist
fitting or rely on stretch finishes, such so varied and fitting preferences are so
placement preference.
as covered elastic waistbands. Use diverse, this is a complex topic. The
patterns especially designed for knits waist treatment is what anchors the Next consider the basic choices
if you plan to make knit skirts. skirt to the body. If the skirt doesn't fit for waist treatment (7). The simplest
waistband style is elastic inserted into
a casing at the top of the skirt. The
6 stretchiness of the elastic eliminates
the need for a zipper or other closure.
The classic straight waistband is best
if it's positioned at the natural waist
with a stiff narrow band and a zipper or
Natural other closure, offering the most secure
Waist
finish of any skirt style.
Hourglass Pear Low
Waist Other waist treatments—faced
High waistband, shaped waistband or
Hip
yoke—can be used in conjunction with
a closure and must be fitted quite snug
to keep the skirt from sagging or
Apple dropping. A faced waistband uses a
classic facing to finish the skirt waist
on the wrong side. The shaped
waistband follows the curves of the
Straight Inverted Triangle waist with a contoured waistband on
the right side that‘s finished on the
inside with a mirror-image facing.
A yoked waistband treatment is
7 shaped from the waist to a seam at or
near the hip. Once the yoke is fit, a
wide variety of skirts can drop from the
yoke to complete the skirt, including
straight, A-line, handkerchief, pleated,
gathered, ruffled or circle skirts to
Elastic waistband Straight waistband Faced waistband name a few. A yoked skirt is usually
finished at the waist on the wrong side
with a lining that's the mirror image of
the yoke.
A flattering skirt accentuates favorite
features and minimizes others. For
example, for a pear- or hourglass-
shaped body, highlight a small waist
by choosing an A-line, such as a gored
skirt, that drapes over curves. For an
Shaped waistband Yoke apple, straight or inverted-triangle
shape, consider a straight skirt or any
skirt shape that doesn’t give extra
46 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
PATTERN PREPARATION
& FIT ADJUSTMENTS
8 Armed with the ideal skirt shape, waist Take waist and hip measurements and
finish and length preferences, purchase choose the size that matches your
a pattern for the skirt style closest to largest applicable measurement. To
the one chosen. If planning to make test the pattern for fit, cut out the skirt
knit skirts, be sure to choose a pattern in a mockup fabric similar to the
designed especially for knit fabrics. finished skirt fabric.
Check the flat drawings on the back of
For a straight skirt, draw the grain-
the pattern envelope or in the online
lines and horizontal balance lines
description to confirm the actual lines
(HBLs) onto the skirt pieces with a
Mini of the skirt are what you’re looking for.
marker. If there aren't any HBLs marked
Short
BASIC SKIRT PATTERNS
Build a skirt pattern collection with these basic designs.
Above Find these basic skirt patterns at mccall.com, simplicity.com,
knee colettepatterns.com, pamelaspatterns.com and shopsewitall.com.
Below
knee
Tea
STRAIGHT SKIRTS
McCall’s 3830,
Midi McCall’s 3341,
McCall’s 7096
Maxi
A-LINE SKIRTS
Simplicity 2314,
Simplicity 1807,
Colette Patterns Ginger
fullness at the waist or hem to make the
lower section of the body look sleeker.
SKIRT LENGTH
With so many different lengths in
KNIT SKIRTS
fashion today, your ideal length is one Pamela’s Patterns
that works with your body type and Magic Pencil Skirt,
height and is also practical for your Simplicity 1068,
lifestyle (8). McCall’s 6654
Anya Skirt Anya Skirt by Christine Haynes Patterns designed exclusively for
SEWNEWS.COM 47
on the pattern, add them at the and try on the skirt. Put some elastic ments and observe the gridlines. Or
abdomen and hip. Add these lines to around the waist to anchor the skirt if consider hiring a professional to assist
the skirt pieces as well to make it easier necessary and pin the zipper opening. you in developing a wardrobe of
to transfer any pattern adjustments Arrange the skirt on the body so the well-fitting basics.
from the mockup to the pattern. Baste grainlines hang perpendicular to the
the front and back skirt pieces together, floor, the side and center-back seam SKIRT FABRIC SELECTION
stitch in any darts and try on the skirt. are positioned correctly, and the Planning wardrobe basics with a
Put some elastic around the waist to hemline hangs parallel to the floor. conscious understanding of how you
anchor the skirt if necessary and pin Move the skirt at the waistband and spend your days will help determine
the zipper opening if applicable. increase or decrease seams to achieve which skirt fabrics are most practical.
Arrange the skirt on your body so the a balanced skirt. When and where do you wear skirts?
gridlines are parallel and perpendicular For either style, stitch in the altera- Do they need to be washable or do
to the floor. Make any necessary tions to test the adjusted fit, but don’t you dry clean your clothing? What
adjustments so the skirt sits smoothly cut any fabric until all of the adjust- are your daily activities?
on the body (9). If the skirt is pulling or ments have been transferred to the Skirts can be fashioned from a
wrinkling, the pull line usually points to paper pattern. variety of fabrics, but different fabrics
the place that needs an adjustment.
Make the skirt in the final fabric, and suit different skirt styles. Stiffer fabrics
Fitting adjustments could include
then assess the fit. For a more relaxed work better in straighter skirts, and
shaping the waist, increasing, decreas-
fit, release the skirt where it feels softer fabrics hang nicely in A-line
ing or adding darts, and releasing or
constricting or choose a looser-fitting or full skirts. Transparent fabrics
taking in the seams. For best results,
style. Likewise, if the skirt feels a little too and wintery fabrics that will cling
keep the grid aligned as adjustments
loose, adjust it for a closer fit. If any to tights should both be lined. Choose
are made so the skirt will hang in a
additional adjustments are needed, a fabric that is weather- and season-
balanced way.
make them to the skirt and wear it again appropriate and aligns with prefer-
For an A-line skirt, mark the grainlines to test the success of the adjustment. ences for washing or dry cleaning.
or foldlines on each piece with a Fabrics with large or directional prints,
marker. Because of the curved nature If you're having a hard time making stripes and plaids might require special
of the pattern pieces, HBLs are imprac- fitting changes on your own, ask a attention when placing the skirt
tical. Baste the skirt pieces together friend to help you pin in the adjust- pattern. It’s often easier to match
patterns on straight skirts than A-line
skirts with their angled seams.
Straight Skirt Mockup
Knit fabrics or fabrics with spandex
9 woven into the cloth hang better with
a snug fit. By today’s fashion standards,
woven fabrics have a more relaxed fit
because they don't cling to the body.
With adjusted pattern in hand, begin
by stitching up some basic skirts in the
colors and fabrics that work well in
your wardrobe, and then expand to
more challenging fabrics. The same
straight skirt looks completely different
in wool tweed than in silk shantung. A
well-fitting A-line skirt can be breezy in
a soft summer cotton print and dressy
in winter in velvet or brocade.
48 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
CLOSURES
Getting in and out of a fitted skirt Any type of zipper is compatible RESOURCES
The Association of Sewing and Design
involves a closure of some sort. Zippers with a straight waistband. Skirts with Professionals: sewingprofessionals.org
are an excellent choice for a skirt a faced waistband, shaped waistband
The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting
closure. Standard nylon zippers in a lap or yoke are easier to finish with an by Sarah Veblen; published by Creative
Publishing International, 2012
application or invisible zippers work invisible zipper.
well in the skirt side or center-back Looking Good: A Comprehensive Guide to
Other options for closing a skirt Wardrobe Planning, Color, and Personal
seam. Either a standard zipper or a include buttons or heavy duty snaps. Style Development by Nancy Nix-Rice; pub-
lished by Palmer/Pletsch Publishing, 1996
metal jean zipper in a fly application These decorative and functional
work well in a center-front seam. closures work best down the front,
Exposed metal zippers make a fashion off center in the front or along the side
statement when placed in the front or seam with an overlap built into the
back of a skirt, too. skirt to accommodate the buttons and
buttonholes or the snap fixtures.
Yoke Skirt
with Pleats
Faced Waistband
Circle Skirt
SEWNEWS.COM 49
PICNIC
in the
PARK
Dress
BY ADDIE MARTINDALE
50 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
When sewing knits
without a serger, use a
narrow zigzag stitch or
stretch stitch and install
a ballpoint needle.
SUPPLIES
• 1¼” yards of 60”-wide knit fabric With right sides together, pin the
(such as jersey, pique or interlock) two scallop pieces along the scalloped 1
edge. Stitch slowly using a ¼” seam
• 10”x37” rectangle of woven
allowance. Make small clips in the
or knit contrast fabric
scallop curves so the seams will lay flat
• All-purpose thread after turning (1). Turn right side out;
• Twin needle press flat. Push out the scallop curves Curve
using a ruler edge or chopstick. Clipping
• 11/8”-diameter covered button
Place the straight edge of the
• Fusible interfacing for contrast
scallop strip ½” down from the upper
fabric (optional)
neckline edge on the right side of front
A; pin (2). Baste in place using a ¼”
seam allowance.
PREPARE
Pin front piece B to front piece A
Download the Picnic in the Park
right sides together, sandwiching the
Dress pattern from sewnews.com/
scallop strip between the layers (3).
web_extras for free until May 31,
Pin, and then stitch using a ½” seam
2016. Purchase the pattern at
allowance. Press the scallop toward
shopsewitall.com after the expiration
the left edge.
date. Print, and then cut out the
pattern pieces.
2 3
CUT
From the main fabric, cut one front
A piece, one front B piece and one
back piece on the fold.
From the contrast fabric, cut
two scallops.
If using a lightweight contrast
fabric for the scallop, cut one scallop
from interfacing and fuse it to one
corresponding pattern piece, following
the manufacturer’s instructions.
CONSTRUCT
Use ½” seam allowances unless
otherwise noted.
SEWNEWS.COM 51
SCALLOP PLAY
Inserting a scallop detail into a
garment is as easy as slicing and
dicing the pattern in the desired
location. Read on to add this frilly
detail to any garment.
• Locate the desired scallop
location on the pattern. Draw
a line using an appropriate
ruler, such as a French curve
or yardstick if the desired
seam is curved or straight.
Cut the pattern along the
drawn line, resulting in two
Pin the shoulder seams with right separate pieces.
4
sides together. Stitch the shoulders, • Tape tissue paper or craft
working from the neck outward. paper to each cut edge, and
Pin the side seams with right sides then add the seam allowance,
following the pattern recom-
together. Stitch, working from the
mendations. Trim away the
underarm toward the hem.
extra paper beyond the new
seam allowance. Use these
FINISH new pattern pieces to cut
Fold the neckline edge ½” toward the fashion fabric.
the wrong side; press. Pin, and then • Create the scallop insert
stitch using a 3/8” seam allowance. Fold to match the desired scal-
the sleeve edge ½” toward the wrong lop width by the pattern cut
side; press. Pin, and then stitch using a length. Begin with the Bloom
3/8” seam allowance (4). Tunic Scallop pattern piece
as a guide, and then cut it to
Fold the blouse hem 1” toward the
the needed pattern length.
wrong side; press. Pin the hem in
Or use a scallop-quilting
place, and then stitch using a ¾” ruler or geometry compass
seam allowance. to create the scallop curves.
Cover the button following the • Stitch the scallop pieces and
manufacturer’s instructions, using a insert the scallop between
scrap of contrast fabric. Place the the fashion fabric cut edges
button 2” from neckline and ½” from following the Picnic in the
the scallop seam; hand sew the button Park Dress instructions.
in place.
52 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
METHODS TO MASTER:
Dart Manipulation
BY LINDA REYNOLDS
SEWNEWS.COM 53
3
Dart Apex
DART BASICS
Darts are essential for providing the the waist dart up to the neckline so it’s
fullness needed for fabric to conform parallel to the center front. The apex is
to the contours of the body. Outwardly where the two lines intersect; mark (3).
visible or not, they’re embedded into Redraw the bust dart so the dart legs
the structure of all garments. Moving extend to the apex (4).
or converting a dart allows for more
creativity and empowers the sewist to Draw a line from the center area of the
both alter and design apparel. shoulder to the bust apex. This is the 4
new location of the shoulder dart (5).
Manipulating darts is relatively easy
to do and is what makes sewing fun Cut out the redrawn bust dart to, but
and expressive. Darts can be easily not through, the apex point. Repeat
moved from one location to another, with the new shoulder line. A small
removed from a pattern or converted hinge should remain. Using invisible
into other forms of shaping, such as tape, bring the two legs of the bust
gathers, pleats or tucks. Before dart together and tape them closed.
initiating any dart changes to a pattern, This spreads open the shoulder dart
personal fitting adjustments must be the appropriate amount to compen-
complete, especially those that will sate for the bust dart removal (6).
impact the darts. These adjustments
include making sure darts are properly
directed to the intended apex (if not,
redraw the existing darts accordingly) 1 5
and bust adjustments. Completing
these adjustments first ensures that
ensuing dart changes will appropriately
transfer the fitting adjustments.
MOVING A DART
Darts can be relocated anywhere
within the radius of the apex of any
one of the body’s major contours: the
bust, hip, waist and shoulder blades (1).
Using the side bust and waist darts
found on a standard bodice front block
pattern as examples, enumerable dart
manipulations are possible following
essentially the same process (2). 2 6
Moving a dart involves closing a dart
(or darts) to make the appropriate and
equal amount of room, or fullness,
Bodice Front
for another dart in a new location.
To move a side bust dart to the
shoulder using a basic bodice front
pattern, first locate and mark the bust
apex. Draw a horizontal line along the
side-bust dart leg toward the center
front. Next, draw a vertical line from
54 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
7
SEWNEWS.COM 55
the bust dart shut. This spreads open Redraw the side seam and hem,
the newly created waist dart (9). or waistline edge, to the desired
shape (12).
Place tissue under the new dart
opening and tape in place.
CONVERTING A DART INTO
Redraw the waist dart by drawing GATHERS
a line from each of the dart legs to Darts are easily converted into other
a point near the side seam and forms of shaping. Changing them into
underarm, extending one of the lines gathers, tucks or pleats are common
beyond the underarm (10). This step options. The process begins by first
effectively redirects the new waist dart moving a dart(s) to the location where
to another place so the pattern can the new form of shaping (gathers in
eventually be rendered flat. Otherwise, this case) will take place. As discussed
if you simply close the new waist dart in “Moving a Dart” on page 54, this
as first drawn, the pattern becomes technique creates the necessary
three-dimensional. amount of fullness needed to replace
Cut the new dart out up to the the eliminated dart.
underarm. Cut the line that extends To convert bust and waist darts into
beyond the underarm up to the dart gathering at the neckline that'll extend
point. Tape the dart shut. The pattern across the center front, locate the
is now in a flat state. The side seam bust apex and redraw both the bust
corner, however, is askew (11). and waist darts as described in
“Moving a Dart.”
11 12
56 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
Practice moving
and converting darts
with a free bodice
sloper at sewnews.
com/web_extras.
13 14 15
SEWNEWS.COM 57
CREATIVE SPACE
MELISSA MORA
BY VERONICA GRAHAM
58 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
B
UILDING A SEWING EMPIRE
within the existing empire that
is your home can be tricky.
Melissa Mora of the blog Melly Sews
learned this firsthand in her Austin,
Texas home. About a year ago she
moved her workspace from the public
domain of the living room to the
sanctuary of an upstairs bedroom;
the Blank Slate Patterns designer
struggled to keep her two young boys
and their friends from admiring her
"toys," i.e. scissors and needles. Now
that she's taken refuge in a room
all her own, the self-proclaimed
"organization freak" prioritizes order
above all else—whether or not the
tidiness is aesthetically pleasing is a
happy accident. "I need functionality,
then to be organized," Mora says. "If
it turns out pretty, then great."
Mora's present setup is a 10'x12'
room with a walk-in closet. The crisp
white backdrop gives her a literal
blank slate for both designing and
filming tutorials. Her camera is mount-
ed above her 4'x8' cutting table for
optimal recording. "I got my husband
to build me the ceiling mount. It's not
something I thought I would love as
much as I do, but I can get that exact
bird's eye view, and now that I have
it, I couldn't live without it," she says.
Her fabrics are stored in a cubed
shelving unit, sorted first by type (knit
or woven) and then by color. Tools
and notions live by the corner with
her sewing machine and serger so
they're accessible without interrup-
tion. "I can't create in chaos. I need to
be able to see my supplies and tools
and have kind of a blank canvas to
work from," she says, "so I purpose-
fully set things up [to be] visible. Even
if I pull out bins, the things in them
are stored vertically so I can see at a
glance what I need."
SEWNEWS.COM 59
CREATIVE SPACE
Wall décor is more selective. "I'm
not the best at putting things on the
wall unless things are given to me. It's
not my strong suit." The heart painting
is a souvenir from her days teaching
high school theater; one of her
students created it as a backdrop for a
play they staged. Her wooden thread
rack in her signature font, however, is
entirely Mora's creation. Using a
projector to enlarge the "M" in her
Melly Sews logo, Mora cut the shape
with a scroll saw as a project for an
American Crafter contest in 2012. Her
entry won that week's theme, Hard-
ware Store Gems. "I wanted to make
something sewing related even
though not everyone in the competi-
tion was a sewing blogger, and my
rule of thumb was that I wouldn't do
something I wouldn't use other than
the competition," Mora says. "I was
overflowing with thread, and I don't
really like plastic thread boxes be-
Be sure to check
out our take on the
Oceanside Pant
in the Creative
Machine Embroidery
May/June issue!
60 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
cause they're not as easily accessible that's why I keep the stylus
as a thread rack, and I came up with to keep the experience of hand
this." She still occasionally gets emails drawing. I hand write lists of blog
from customers imploring her to post ideas, too."
make one for them as well, but Mora When Mora's ready to turn her inspi-
says she's sticking to patterns. ration into action, she tunes into a
Mora's no slouch with software as good TV show that also lets her tune
well as hardware, either, blending the out to focus on her creations. She
digital age with her penchant for pulls from her inspiration file on her
handiwork. She works "almost computer but also turns to the colors
exclusively" on her iMac computer of her fabric stash for influence. Once
and iPad but with applications that let in a while the TV show she's watching
her hand write digital notes and seeps into her patterns—she says her
sketch ideas with a stylus. Magazine Linens Wildflower Top is directly
pages with inspiring images get influenced by "Downton Abbey"—but
screenshot so she can write notes on ultimately every design tells a story
them. She's also been known to take all its own. "I like stories, and that's
surreptitious photos of strangers on always been true. When I was teach-
her phone if she's out and about and ing high school I taught English and
spies an interesting outfit or environ- theater, and those are all about
ment. But even though Mora loves her stories," she says, "so with patterns,
gadgets, "I just process things better I tend to try to create stories that I'm
when writing by hand," she says, "so filling in with these outfits."
Pocketful of
Posies Dress
"We talk about knit-
banded hems with this
dress because it has a
ribbed knit banded hem,
neckline and sleeves"
Mora says. With a pleated
front and pockets, the
dress perfectly blends
comfort and style.
Favorite Purse
This bag addresses zipper techniques, but also the ability
to upcycle materials for the straps, which are made
with webbing. "It's hard sometimes to find webbing light
enough for purse straps and even harder to find cotton
webbing," Mora says. "Pants tend to be sold with
a webbed belt with D-rings that nobody wants,
so webbing's fairly easy to find at thrift stores."
SEWNEWS.COM 61
ALONG
THE
MAGIC
BIAS
DRESS
BY RHONDA BUSS
BUY IT
Purchase the Magic
Bias Dress Pattern
by Fashion in
Harmony Patterns at
shopsewitall.com.
62 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
JOIN
the Sew News Magic Bias Dress
Sew-Along on the Sew News Blog
at sewnews.com/blogs/sewing.
CREATIVE
CUSTOMIZING
Join the Sew News Magic Bias
Dress Sew-Along and learn
ON THE BLOG! how to customize this dress
Join us on the blog on April 4 to (instructions included) and a feminine just for you.
start the Magic Bias Dress Sew- tulip-sleeve version. There are only • Learn how to add tulip
Along. Purchase the pattern at three pattern pieces, and each one is sleeves for a flattering
shopsewitall.com, and then visit easily manipulated to create an array look (A).
the blog weekly for tips and tricks of color blocking possibilities. Light- • Add French piping to
to guide you through the pattern. to mediumweight fabrics with drape, necklines (B).
such as rayon, wool challis, silk,
• Learn how to sew curved
PATTERN DETAILS charmeuse and crepe, are great
seams.
It’s a common misconception that choices for the Magic Bias Dress.
bias-cut garments hug curves too (Suiting fabrics won't have enough
tightly and are difficult to sew. drape.) Most of the seams are on the A
Julianne Bramson of Fashion In straight of grain, making sewing the
Harmony Patterns takes the guess- dress even easier.
work and confusion out of creating
wearable bias-cut garments. The trick SEW-ALONG SCHEDULE
to cutting the perfect bias garment is Find the pattern at shopsewitall.com.
to start with the pattern being cut on Purchase fabric, notions and supplies
the straight of grain: no more trying according to the pattern envelope and
to find the bias grainline or working join the Magic Bias Dress Sew-Along
with a huge and umbersome pattern on the Sew News blog. Prep the
piece. Not only is the Magic Bias chosen fabric before the Sew-Along
Dress Pattern designed to be cut on according to the manufacturer’s
the straight of grain, but the seams instructions. And be sure to visit the
are also sewn on the straight of grain, Sew News blog each week for helpful
so it's less likely that the garment will tips and more customizing options. B
be pulled out of shape while sewing. Week 1: Week of April 4
The pattern is designed so that once Fabric Choice & Fabric Prep
the garment is sewn, the straight of
grain will wrap around the body and Week 2: Week of April 11
create a lovely bias drape. Construction
SEWNEWS.COM 63
STAFF PICKS
Stuff we love!
BOUNDLESS STYLE
by Kristiann Boos
From the creator of Victory Patterns comes a
mix-and-match pattern book with five bodice,
skirt and sleeve options all designed to coordinate.
Choose from classic styles with vintage inspiration,
and build your perfect dress, blouse, tunic or skirt.
The book includes a handy CD with PDF patterns WIN A COPY
in sizes from 2 to 16 and plenty of full-color of Boundless Style
photographs to guide your way. by entering the Sew
News blog giveaway
interweavestore.com
on April 19, 2016.
SEWNEWS.COM 65
FASHION FETE
66 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
SKILLS AND TECHNIQUES
for the fashion-minded sewist!
Award-winning designer and stylist Joi Mahon
PA T
IN TE P
CL RN LA
T EM
Designer Joi’s
UD -M TE
FASHION
5 NG
I
JOI MAH ON
Available Now
ShopFonsandPorter.com
HOME COUTURE
INSPIRATION For an
inexpensive art deco
finish, select a luxe fabric
and hang a large gathered
panel behind the bed from
floor to ceiling. The fabric
mimics a headboard,
creating a foundation
for the room. For a more
finished look, frame the
fabric with molding.
The Negroni Shirt With a classic hood I often forget that Men's Easy Shirt For a lightweight
by Colette Patterns or a stylish shawl collar guys like bags, too. by Islander Sewing jacket great for
is a great-fitting basic option, the Finlayson The Grainline Studio Systems is a lovely seasonal transitions,
perfect for customizing. Sweater by Thread Portside Travel Set blend of comfort the Frenchglen Barn
Embellish this basic Theory is hard-working is a go-to set for any and couture details Jacket from Green
design with some tone- and rugged but also traveler. Make it in plaids, for everyday. Pepper is a perfect pick.
on-tone embroidery great for lounging. leather or waxed canvas
shopsewitall.com thegreenpepper.com
for Guayabera- for a rugged look.
threadtheory.ca
inspired styling.
shopsewitall.com
colettepatterns.com
70 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
CLIPPINGS
Meet LOWRY
the sewbot
BY VERONICA GRAHAM
L
OWRY CAN'T EXACTLY take
pride in finishing the perfect
pair of pants and enjoy showing
off the way they effortlessly fit his SoftWear
W Automation
A t ti started
t t d outt iin
derriere. But in terms of pure sewing 2012 with a government grant to may lack in dimension, it makes up
ability, the world's first “sewbot” can create technology for producing for in time spent. LOWRY tops out at
stitch with the best of them. large quantities of military uniforms 12,000 RPMs so that the sewing
LOWRY is a pick and place robot with greater efficiency. Since then the machines can work at their highest
that works with industrial sewing company has received grants from speed at all times. "The sewbots can
machines, serving not only as the the Walmart Foundation and Georgia detect when something is wrong
hands but also the eyes. Developed Tech to improve apparel manufactur- quicker [than a person], and it can do
by Atlanta-based startup SoftWear ing for the private sector as well. “We certain things continuously for up to
Automation, LOWRY positions the want to bring back large manufactur- 24 hours a day if necessary so there
fabric pieces at the machine and ing here, but we're also getting are no breaks to take," Mahindru says.
then sews them by following a interest to localize it a little bit, so the
Mahindru says LOWRY isn't meant
pre-programmed path. While pick factories may be regional and have
to replace human sewists but actually
and place robots aren't entirely new regional chains,” Mahindru says.
act as a job stimulator for an industry
to the soft goods industry, robots A four-axis robot whose movement that's been greatly decimated in the
with sight like LOWRY are, Director of essentially resembles a giant palm United States and come under fire for
Projects Maanav Mahindru says. sliding around the sewing machine, far-from-stellar working conditions
“Overhead vision allows us to fine two versions of LOWRY currently overseas. Sewbots still need human
tune and sew
ew correctly,” he says. exist: one that handles masters to tell them what to sew,
ssmaller tasks like shirt after all, as well as handlers to keep
ffronts and button- them maintained. Says Mahindru,
holes, and another
h “This industry was really huge in
tthat can take on Georgia and the Carolinas, so there's
large-scale projects. a lot of excitement. There's excite-
Both versions mostly ment to create a totally different type
work on flat, two- of job, and even a better job.”
dimensional goods, Photos courtesy of SoftWear Automation.
but what LOWRY
SEWNEWS.COM 71
LAST LAUGH
WHAT’S THE SKINNY PEELING FRUSTRATED BOBBIN FOR SNACKS
I was 16 in the '80s when I took a When making a shirt, I applied fusible My mom and I sew together one day a
sewing class in school. My friends interfacing to the placket wrong side. week, and we take delight in tackling
came up with the brilliant idea for The interfacing was still warm when I new and different techniques. Through
me to make their jeans “skinny jeans.” noticed, so I peeled it off quickly, applied trial and error, we've found that having
I measured twice and cut once but it to the correct side and proceeded to snacks next to our sewing machines is
didn't allow enough room for the feet baste the front. It turns out I had it right necessary, especially ones that don’t
to pass through. A few friends rubbed the first time. So I peeled it off one more make a mess, such as peanut M&M’s.
their feet with butter while others put time and reapplied. One day, we were very engrossed in a
plastic bags on their feet to slide them particular step, and my mom reached
Lisa M., Facebook
into the jeans. behind her for a handful of M&M's.
The next thing I hear is gagging and
Denise S., Facebook
spitting, and then out of her mouth
popped a bobbin.
Lee S., Facebook
ON THE BEND
I recently brought my machine to
And the get repaired because the needle kept
LAST LAUGH hitting the plate. Once at the repair
goes to... shop, I was asked if I'd tried to change
the needle because the one in the
machine was bent. That’s why it
was hitting the plate, the one thing
I didn't check!
Roxann C., Facebook
DOUBLE TROUBLE
I was hired to hem a pair of nice dress pants for a man who was traveling for the holidays.
I cut one leg twice while the other leg remained uncut. I apologized to the customer and
managed to reattach the second cut and make it invisible to match the other leg.
Winnie W., Facebook
Send your sewing bloopers to [email protected] with your name and mailing address!
If your blooper is chosen as our “Last Laugh,” you’ll win the Best of Sew News book bundle,
including Sew it All: Quick Projects, Best of Sew News: Home Accessories and Basics & Beyond:
Simple Embellishments, valued at more than $50. Find these books and more at shopsewitall.com.
Bloopers become the property of Sew News and may be edited for clarity and brevity.
Issue 352. Sew News (ISSN 0273-8120) is published 6 times a year in Feb/March, April/May, June/July, Aug/Sept, Oct/Nov, Dec/Jan by F+W Media, 741 Corporate Circle,
Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Sew News, P.O. Box
420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bluechip International, PO Box 25542 London, ON N6C 6B2 Canada.
72 SEWNEWS.COM A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6
No Pins, No Basting,
No Kidding!
Learn to sew faster and better while using industry sewing techniques in the
Islander Sewing Systems Certification Course, available at Craft U.
er
ican Sewing Expo and owner of Island
Janet Pray is the president of The Amer
Sewing System s Comp any. Janet served as the Executive Director of the
2012, she was presented with a Lifetim
e Course runs May 16 to June 27, 2016.
National Sewing Council for 3 years. In
Achieveme nt Award by the Assoc iation of Sewing and Design Professionals. 6XXZhhi]ZXdjghZ[dg+lZZ`hÄiV`Zi]Zb
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CdhZiXaVhhi^bZ8djghZhVgZhigjXijgZYid
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Find additional items you need to take ndjgfjZhi^dchVcYegdk^YZ[ZZYWVX`
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