Crochet

Dream
Pattern
Baby Dragon
 Thank you very much for
your purchase!
Hi,

I’m very happy that you have chosen my pattern! I hope you have loads of fun crocheting
it and later enjoy the finished toy.

A lot of work and love was put into this design and the pattern, so I ask you not to
distribute it any further (see copyright page 26).

I would love to see your finished toy, please tag me on your picture @just.inami_,
so I can share it with my community.

Please read the entire pattern before you start crocheting. I would advise you to crochet
in the given order, since some parts like the arms and the legs will be crocheted into the
body. But you are welcome to sew these parts on the body, too, if that is easier for you.

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me on Instagram @just.inami_
or by mail ([email protected]).

InaMi

1
 You need the following materials
Chenille wool in a blue tone of your choice (2 skeins of 100 g/120 m length) as the main color, half a skein in cream for
the details (tummy, wings, legs) (e.g. Funny Uni, Leami Chenille Soft UNI, Himalaya Dolphin Baby, etc.)
a small amount of Ricorumi Nilli Nilli in cream for the horns and approx. 15 g in yellow for the star
crochet hook 3.5 mm (if you crochet very tightly, or want a bigger animal, use a 4.5 mm or 5 mm - maybe the chenille
consumption will be a bit higher in this case) and 2.5 mm for the Nilli Nilli
safety eyes 13-14 mm, in black
black and white embroidery thread for the eye details
black chenille or cotton yarn for the nose
fiberfill
stitch markers
pins
scissors
blunt needle for sewing / pointed needle for deepening the eyes
strong, tear-resistant yarn for modeling the eyes
cotton thread in the respective color to attach some body parts
possibly some blush for the cheeks

Using the same or similar yarn and needle size as above, Baby Dream will be about 35 cm
tall from head to toe.

I used the following colors

Leami Soft UNI Leami Soft UNI

Babyblue (No. 126) Creme (No. 103)

Of course, it is up to you, which yarn, and which crochet hook you use. I just listed the materials I used for. Just keep in mind
that the size of the toy can vary from the stated measurements, if you replace the yarn or use a thicker/thinner crochet hook.
This means you can also use cotton yarn or Chenille Velvet for Baby Dream.

2
 Abbreviations
MR - Magic Ring BLO - back loop only
Rd - round FLO - front loop only
Rw - row B3 - bobble stitch (crochet 3dc together)
inc - increase B4 - bobble stitch (crochet 4dc together)
dec - decrease ( ) - total number of stitches at the end of the round
sl st - slip stitch (...) x … - repeat what is in the brackets x-times
sc - single crochet tog. with - crochet together (with the body parts)
ch - chain *...* - crochet into one stitch
tch - turning chain Dchsts - Double chain stitches
hdc - half double crochet
dc - double crochet
tr - treble crochet

Helpful tips before you start

Each part starts with a Magic Ring and is crocheted in spiral rounds - if not stated otherwise.

If you have difficulties with the Magic Ring, you can try this alternative: Make 2 chains and then crochet into the 2nd
chain from the crochet hook 6 sc. You can find a video of how I do a Magic Ring with Chenille yarn on my Instagram
account under the tab "Reels".

Use an invisible decrease to get a clean finish (For this only crochet into the FLO of the two stitches, pull the yarn
through both FLO and finish the dec as usual)

When you are instructed to only crochet in the back loop, crochet the stitch as usual, but skip the front loop and only
work in the back loop. The same goes for the front loop as well (skip the back loop and only work in the front loop).

Please note that I crochet x-stitches. If you crochet v-stitches, the finished toy might look a bit different from mine.

Some body parts like e.g. the head, the horns, ears and the tail are sewn on the body. I would advise you to use a cotton
yarn with a similar color for this. This way your toy will hold up much better than with Chenille yarn since Chenille
tends to lint and tear easily. This might lead to body parts loosening (e.g., if children tear on them).

3
Ears (2x)
(Use baby blue)

Rd1: 6sc in MR (6) Pull the thread through the last stitch and
Rd2: (inc) x6 (12) leave a long thread for sewing on.
Rd3: (1hdc, hdc inc) x6 (18)
Rd4: 3sc, (*3hdc*, 1sl st) x6, 3sc (30) You can also sew the ears on with a separate
cotton thread so that they hold better. (in this
Place both sides on top of each other and crochet case you need to hide the chenille thread).
them together with 3sc, crocheting through both
sides.through both sides.

Horns (2x)
(Start with Nilli Nilli in cream, with a 2.5 mm hook -
alternatively you can also use thicker cotton)

Rd1: 5sc in MR (5)

Rd2: 5sc (5)
Rd3: inc, 4sc (6)
Rd4: 6sc (6)
Rd5: (1sc, inc) x3 (9)
Rd6: (2sc, inc) x3 (12)
Change to baby blue chenille
Rd7: FLO: 12sc (12)

Fill the horns lightly with filling material. Leave a long thread for sewing on.

You can also sew them on with a separate cotton thread so that they hold better. (in this case you
need to hide the chenille thread).

4
Head
(Use baby blue)
Rd1: 8sc in MR (8)
Rd2: (inc) x8 (16)
Rd3: (1sc, inc) x8 (24)
Rd4: 24sc (24)
Rd5: 8sc, B3, 6sc, B3, 8sc (24)
Rd6-7: 24sc (2 rounds) (24)
Make sure the increases in the next round are between the bobble stitches.
Rd8: 8sc, FLO: (inc) x8, 8sc (32)
Rd9: 8sc, (inc, 1sc) x8, 8sc (40)
Stuff the snout firmly with fiberfill.
Rd10: (7sc, inc) x5 (45)
Place the eyes between Rd8/9 with a distance of 8 visible stitches.
Count the increases at Rd8. There should be 4 visible increases between the eyes.
Rd11-17: 45sc (7 rounds) (45)
Rd18: (7sc, dec) x5 (40)
Rd19: (8sc, dec) x4 (36)
Rd20: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)
Rd21: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)
Continue stuffing the head with fiberfill.
Rd23: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rd24: (1sc, dec) x6 (12)
Tip: Leave the hole open until you have finished sculpting the face.
Afterwards you can pull the threads to the back and knot them there (see page 11).
Rd25: (dec) x6 (6)

Finish stuffing the head firmly with fiberfill. Leave a tail for sewing the opening closed. With a tapestry needle, sew
through the 6 remaining stitches. Gently pull the thread tight to close. Weave in the ends.

The tutorial for the face

sculpting, the fancy hairstyle
and the finishing touches can be
found on pages 6-11.

5
Sculpting the face
TUTORIAL
beginner friendly

6
 Tutorial for deepening the eyes

Please note: You can sculpt the face in the way that suits you best. For example, if you prefer to start with the
needle from the back of the head (at the opening), you are welcome to do so. The description on the next pages
only show how I do it :)

1. Use a long, strong, tear-resistant cotton thread. Put

the needle right next to the eye into the head and
come out at the bottom of the head. For this part, I
use a long and sharp needle.

2. Use the upper end of the yarn and thread it through

your needle. Stitch with your needle on the other side
of the eye into the head and come out in the same
stitch at the bottom again (leave a loop above the eye).

3. Hide the yarn behind the eye by pulling on the two

threads at the bottom of the head.

4. Use your needle and pull both threads now to the back
of the head (where you left the hole open). Make sure that
you pull both threads through the same stitch, otherwise
a dent will appear. Pull equally on both threads so that
the eye gets pulled into the head. Knot the threads when
you're happy with the position.

Repeat steps 1-4 for the 2nd eye.

7
 Tutorial for embroidering the eyes / eyebrows

1. Use a long, white, strong, tear-resistant 2. Use the right end of the yarn and thread it through your needle.
cotton thread for the white part of the eyes. Pierce into the upper corner of the eye into the head and come out
Put the needle in the outer corner of the at the back of the head (if you haven't closed the opening yet).
lower part of the eye into the head and come This way the white part of the eye is created. Repeat this step for
out at the outer bottom corner of the 2nd the other eye.
eye.

3. Use a long, black, strong, tear-resistant 4. Use the right end of the yarn and thread it through your needle.
cotton thread for the eyelid. Stitch at the Stitch 1sc away from the eye into the head again (slightly downwards)
upper inner corner into the head and come and come out at the back of the head (if you haven’t closed the
out at the same position on the other side. opening yet). You can of course embroider a longer eyelid (matter of
taste). Repeat this step for the 2nd eye. Knot the threads.

Use a long, strong, tear-resistant, black

cotton thread for the eyebrows. These are
located between Rd11/12 and go over 4sc.
The distance between them is 8sc. Knot the
threads.

8
 Crocheting the hair

Reattach the baby blue chenille yarn after round 14 in the middle, 2sc from the right eyebrow and crochet your first strand:
9 ch + 1 sc into the head. Repeat this 2 more times right beside it.

Then crochet 7 ch, but turn the head over and attach the chain further down (towards the snout). Now crochet 7 ch + 1 sc
into the head. Repeat this 2 more times right beside it. Then crochet 6 ch, turn the head over again and attach the chain one
round further down (towards the snout).

Finally, crochet 2 ch and fasten them with a sl st one round further down. Knot the end thread with the beginning thread
and hide the threads inside the head.

9
 Completion of the Head

Take your time to find the right position for the horns and the ears. My horns are one round above the eyebrows and
about 2sc away from the hair piece in the center. Stitch with the needle only in the BLO of the horn when sewing on.

I have attached the ears at the same height as the horns, with a distance of 2sc. Sew the parts on carefully. You can sew
them on with chenille or cotton.

I usually sew my body parts on with chenille, if the quality of the chenille is right and the thread doesn't fray too
much. However, as a beginner, I would advise you to use a separate cotton thread. That way you can unravel the parts
more easily (if necessary).

10
 Closing the opening at the back of the head
I left the hole at the back of the head open until I was completely finished with the sculpting of the face. Now you can
knot the threads that belong together. Make sure to knot the eyes tightly enough, but not too tight (otherwise the
thread could disappear behind the eye). I always turn the head around (facing me) and see how far the thread tightens
around the eye. Then hide all the threads in the head.

Now you can crochet the hole closed:

(1sc, dec) x6 (12)
(dec) x6 (6)

Cut the thread long enough and pull it with the help of a darning needle through the front loops of the
6 remaining stitches. Gently pull the thread tight to close the hole. Weave in the thread.

You can brush pink cheeks on Baby Dream with some blush or embroider them with pink cotton yarn.

11
Arms (2x)
(Use baby blue for the arm and cream for the bobble stitch)

Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rd2: (inc) x6 (12)
Rd3: (inc) x12 (24)
Rd4: (3sc, inc) x6 (30)
Rd5: 10sc, (B4, 2sc) ×4, 8sc (see detailed pictures below) (30)
Rd6-7: 30sc (2 rounds) (30)
Rd8: 9sc, (dec) x6, 9sc (24)
Rd9: 9sc, (dec) ×3, 9sc (21)
Rd10: (5sc, dec) x3 (18)
Stuff the base of the foot firmly with fiberfill.
Rd11: 7sc, (dec) x2, 7sc (16)
Rd12: FLO: 16sc (16)
Rd13: 16sc (16)
Rd14: (7sc, inc) x2 (18)
Rd15: 18sc (18)
Rd16: (8sc, inc) x2 (20)
Rd17: 20sc (20)
Rd18: (8sc, dec) x2 (18)
Rd19: 18sc (18)
Rd20: (1sc, dec) x6 (12)

The upper part (from Rd18) is only very lightly filled (otherwise the arms will stick out too much). If necessary, crochet 2-3sc in
addition so that the arm is in the correct position. The bobble stitches point to the front (perpendicular to the edge). Place
both sides on top of each other and crochet them together with 5sc by stitching through both sides.

Pull the thread through the last stitch and weave in the thread. The arms are crocheted into the body later. When crocheting
on, I take the end thread from the arm into the body instead of sewing it.

Tutorial
B4 - bobble stitch (in cream)

Finish the previous sc with cream yarn.

Dc in the next stitch (FLO) but don’t
complete a full dc. Pull the thread only
through the first two loops. Now you have 2
loops on the needle. Repeat 3 more times
(you have 5 loops on the needle). Finally,
pull the baby blue thread through all the
loops. You can then pull the bobble stitch
out a little with the crochet hook.

12
Legs (2x)
(Use baby blue for the arm and cream for the bobble stitch)
Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)
Rd2: (inc) x6 (12)
Rd3: (inc) x12 (24)
Rd4: (3sc, inc) x6 (30)
Rd5: 10sc, (B4, 2sc) ×4, 8sc (see detailed pictures on page 12) (30)
Rd6-7: 30sc (2 rounds) - the beginning of the Rd should be in the (30)
middle of the back, so that the decreases are centered.
Rd8: 9sc, (dec) x6, 9sc (24)
Rd9: 9sc, (dec) ×3, 9sc (21)
Rd10: (5sc, dec) x3 (18)
Stuff the base of the foot firmly with fiberfill.
Rd11: FLO: 18sc (18)
Rd12: 18sc (18)
Rd13: 6sc, (inc) x6, 6sc (24)
Rd14: 6sc, (inc, 1sc) x6, 6sc (30)
Rd15-16: 30sc (2 rounds) (30)
Rd17: 6sc, (dec, 1sc) x6, 6sc (24)
Rd18: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rd19: 18sc (18)
Rd20: (1sc, dec) x6 (12)

The upper part (from Rd18) is not filled (otherwise the legs will stick out too much). If necessary, crochet 2-3sc in addition so that
the leg is in the correct position. The increases from Rd13-14 and the bobble stitches point to the front (perpendicular to the edge).
Place both sides on top of each other and crochet them together with 5sc by stitching through both sides.

Pull the thread through the last stitch and sew up the thread if necessary. The legs are crocheted into the body later.
When crocheting on, I take the end thread from the leg into the body instead of sewing it.

Tail
(Use baby blue)
Finish the round with a sl st and weave in the end. Stuff the tail with
Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)
fiberfill. It will later be sewn to the body with a separate cotton thread.
Rd2: 6sc (6)
Rd3: (inc, 1sc) x3 (9)
Rd4-5: 9sc (2 rounds) (9)
Rd6: (inc, 2sc) x3 (12)
Rd7-10: 12sc (4 rounds) (12)
Rd11: (inc, 3sc) x3 (15)
Rd12-16: 15sc (5 rounds) (15)
Rd17: (inc, 4sc) x3 (18)
Rd18-20: 18sc (3 rounds) (18)
Rd21: (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
Rd22-23: 24sc (2 rounds) (24)

13
Wings (2x)
(Use baby blue for the 1st part and cream for the 2nd part)

Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rd2-11: 6sc (10 rounds) (6)

End the round with a sl st and sew the thread.

Re-attach the yarn to the blue part with cream (at the top of the opening) and crochet:
Rw1: 9sc along it, turn
Rw2: 8sc, turn
From here only BLO:
Rw3: 6sc + 1tch
Rw4: 6sc, turn
Rw5: 5sc, turn
Rw6: 3sc

Finally, crochet 5sc along the edge down to the blue part.

Finish the round with a sl st and attach the cream-colored part to the blue part with 2-3 stitches. Then sew the
threads together. The wings will later be sewn to the body with a separate cotton thread.

14
Star
(Use Nilli Nilli in yellow and crochet the circle twice)

Rd1: 5sc in MR (5)

Rd2: (inc) x5 (10)
Rd3: (1sc, inc) x5 (15)
Rd4: (2sc, inc) x5 (20)

Crochet both sides together as described below.

(do not forget to lightly stuff the middle with fibrefill before
the last prong) lightly with fiberfill before the last prong)

(hdc, *2dc, 1tr, 2dc*, hdc, sl st) x5

Leave a long thread for sewing on.

19
Body (part 1):
(Begin with cream color, we start with a Dchsts and crochet around these.)

Rd1: Dchsts with 18ch + 1 tch (see pictures) (19)

Rd2: inc, 16sc, 3sc in 1 stitch, 16sc, inc (39)
Rd3: (inc) x2, 16sc, (inc) x3, 16sc, (inc) x2 (46)
Rd4: (1sc, inc) x2, 16sc, (1sc, inc) x3, 16sc, (1sc, inc) x2 (53)
Rd5: (2sc, inc) x2, 16sc, (2sc, inc) x3, 16sc, (2sc, inc) x2 (60)

Start your Dchsts with a longer beginning thread. Loop the thread over your hook and pull your thread through both
loops on your hook. Crochet in this way 17 more chains (18 in total). Crochet the last chain normally, though (without
looping the beginning thread over your crochet hook). Mark this stitch with a thread. You will skip this stitch later.

Now you have a front and a back row with visible sc. Crochet into the first sc from your hook (do not crochet in the tch). We
do an inc first. After this, crochet 16 sc. In the last stitch you crochet 3sc. Then you continue crocheting on the back side.
Crochet again, 16sc. In the last stitch crochet a increase. Start your new beginning of the round.

Like mentioned above - skip the

stitch you marked. This means
crochet into the next stitch (arrow in Continue on the next page.
the picture) and start round 3.

15
Body (part 2):
Rd6: 60sc (cream) - after this Rd change color to baby blue, do not cut the yarn, we will continue (60)
alternating in two colors - (B) for blue and (C) for cream
Rd7-9: 25sc (B), 10sc (C), 25sc (B) (3 rounds) (60)
In the next round, the legs are crocheted on. The new beginning of the round is
in the center back. The bobble stitches of the foot point to the front. The front legs are 10sc
apart, the back legs 8sc. Mark the position of the legs. (You may need to adjust stitches before
the first leg).
Rd10: 4sc, 5sc tog. with the 1st hind leg, 9sc, 5sc tog. with the 1st front leg, 2sc (B), (60)
10sc (C), 2sc, 5sc tog. with the 2nd front leg, 9sc, 5sc tog. with the 2nd hind leg, 4sc (B)
Rd11-13: 25sc (B), 10sc (C), 25sc (B) (3 rounds) (60)
Rd14: dec, 10sc, dec, 11sc (B), dec, 6sc, dec (C), 11sc, dec, 12sc (B) (55)
Rd15: 9sc, dec, 10sc, dec (B), 8sc (C), dec, 10sc, dec, 8sc, dec (B) (50)
Rd16-17: 22sc (B), 7sc (C), 21sc (B) (2 rounds) (50)

Continue on the next page.

16
 Completing the body
Make sure that the round ends in the middle at the back and that the color change is in the middle at the front
(you may have to crochet 2-3sc more). Then pull the thread through the last stitch and leave a long thread.
We sew up the back from back to front.

When sewing, insert the needle into the outer loops. Sew 15sc together on each side.

Leave 20sc free at the front to create a circle. Continue crocheting the neck there. Stuff the body firmly with
fiberfill. Stuff the back part so that it does not look too pointed.

Reattach the thread at the neck and crochet: 6sc (B), 7sc (C), 7sc (B) (2 rounds).

End the round with a slst, pull the yarn through it and sew it. Stuff the body and the neck tightly with fiberfill
once again.

17
 Finishing touches
Tip: Use a long knitting needle and pierce it through the head into the body. This way, it is easier to find the right position
for the head. It should protrude from the top of the head so that it can be easily removed at the end.

Carefully sew the head to the body by stitching alternately behind the stitches on the head and body. I double the cotton
thread and knot it at the back of the body.

Stuff with fiberfill if necessary. I always sew twice around the head so that it holds well. Knot the beginning thread with the
end thread and pull it into the inside of the body.

Sew the tail to the center back of the body. Finally, you can attach the star to the tip of the tail or tie it around the neck.

Sew the wings to the left and right of the body. Use a cotton thread of the same color for this.
It is best to determine the position yourself. Pin them in the desired position with long needles.

18
Detailed photos

20
Baby Dream
2nd Version
lying on the back
Addition: tummy patch, arms, body
the rest remains unchanged.

21
Tummy Patch
(Use cream. This is worked in rows. Turn the piece after each row)

Rw1: 6ch + 1tc (6)

Rw2: 6sc + 1tc (6)
from here on crochet only into the BLO
Rw3: 6hdc + 1tc (6)
Rw4: inc hdc, 4hdc, inc hdc + 1tc (8)
Rw5-6 8hdc + 1tc (2 rows) - (see additional info below) (8)
Rw7: inc hdc, 6hdc, inc hdc + 1tc (10)
Rw8-9: 10hdc + 1tc (2 rows) - (see additional info below) (10)
Rw10: inc hdc, 8hdc, inc hdc + 1tc (12)
Rw11: 12hdc + 1tc (12)
Rw12: dec hdc, 8hdc, dec hdc + 1tc (10)
Rw13: dec hdc, 6hdc, dec hdc + 1tc (8)
Rw14: 8hdc (8)

Info: If your belly patch is too short, you can crochet one or two additional rows at Rw5-6 and Rw8-9.
Crochet around the belly patch once all the way around with sc. Pull the thread through the last stitch
and sew the threads together. The belly patch is later sewn onto the front of the belly with a separate
cotton thread.

Arms (2x)
(Use a color of your choice - here I used Honey Bunny, Nougat Nr. 09 and cream for the B3)

Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rd2: (inc) x6 (12)
Rd3: (inc) x12 (24)
Rd4: 9sc, (B3, 1sc) ×4, 7sc (24)
Rd5: 24sc (24)
Rd6: 6sc, (dec) x6, 6sc (18)
Rd7: 6sc, (dec) ×3, 6sc (15)
Rd8: FLO: 15sc (15)
Stuff the base of the foot firmly with fiberfill.
Rd9-13: 15sc (5 rounds) (15)
Rd14: (3sc, dec) x3 (12)

The upper part (from Rd9) is not filled (otherwise the arms will stick out too much). If necessary, crochet 2-3sc in addition so
that the arm is in the correct position. The bobble stitches point to the front (perpendicular to the edge). Place both sides on top
of each other and crochet them together with 5sc by crocheting through both sides. Pull the thread through the last stitch and
weave in the thread. The arms will be crocheted on the body later.

22
Body
(Use a color of your choice - here I used Honey Bunny, Nougat Nr. 09)

Rd1: 6sc in MR (6)

Rd2: 6sc (6)
Rd3: (inc, 1sc) x3 (9)
Rd4-5: 9sc (2 rounds) (9)
Rd6: (inc, 2sc) x3 (12)
Rd7-9: 12sc (3 rounds) (12)
Rd10: (inc, 3sc) x3 (15)
Rd11-13: 15sc (3 rounds) (15)
Rd14: (inc, 4sc) x3 (18)
Rd15-16: 18sc (2 rounds) (18)
Rd17: (2sc, inc) x6 (24)
Rd18-19: 24sc (2 rounds) (24)
Rd20: 9sc, (inc) x6, 9sc (30)
Rd21: 9sc, (inc, 1sc) x6, 9sc (36)
Rd22: 9sc, (inc, 2sc) x6, 9sc (42)
Rd23: (6sc, inc) x6 (48)
Rd24-25: 48sc (2 rounds) (48)
Rd26: (14sc, dec) x3 (45)
Rd27-28: 45sc (2 rounds) +1 sc to move the beginning of the round. (45)
In the next round, the legs are crocheted on. Make sure that the increases
from Rd22-24 lie between the legs. The toes/bobble stitches point to the front.
Rd29: 8sc, 5sc tog. with the 1st leg, 19sc, 5sc tog. with the 2nd leg, 8sc (45)
Rd30-31: 45sc (2 rounds) (45)
Rd32: 18sc, (dec, 1sc) x3, 18sc (42)
Rd33-34: 42sc (2 rounds) (42)
Rd35: (5sc, dec) x6 (36)
Rd36-37: 36sc (2 rounds) (36)
Rd38: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)
Rd39: 30sc (30)
Rd40: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)
Begin to fill the body continuously with fiberfill. In the next round, the arms are
crocheted in. Make sure that they are parallel and at the same height as the legs.
Rd41: 3sc, 5sc tog. with the 1st arm, 8sc, 5sc tog. with the 2nd arm, 3sc (24)
Rd42: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)
Rd43-44: 18sc (2 rounds) (18)

Finish the round with a sl st and weave in the thread.

23
 Completing the body
Tip: Use a long knitting needle and pierce it through the head into the body. This way, it is easier to find the right position
for the head. It should protrude from the top of the head so that it can be easily removed at the end.

Carefully sew the head to the body by stitching alternately behind the stitches on the head and body. I double the cotton
thread and knot it at the back of the body.

Stuff with fiberfill if necessary. I always sew twice around the head so that it holds well. Knot the beginning thread with the
end thread and pull it into the inside of the body.

Sew the belly patch to the center front of the body. Use a cotton thread of the same color for this. The lower part ends at the
start of the tail. Sew the star to the tip of the tail.

Sew the wings to the back left and right of the body. Use a cotton thread of the same color for this.
It is best to determine the position yourself. Pin them in place with long pins for a better hold.

24
Detailed photos

25
 Congratulations,
you made it!

I hope you had a great time crocheting Baby Dream.

I would love to see your version of him. Just tag me on your picture on
Instagram @just.inami_ or use the hashtag #inamidesign

Copyright
This pattern and the design of Baby Dream is owned by @just.inami_ and for personal use only. Neither the whole pattern nor parts of it
may be copied, reproduced, translated, resold or published (neither digitally nor printed). Photos of Baby Dream may of course be shown
on the Internet if @just.inami_ is clearly named as the designer. The crocheted toys that are personally handmade based on this pattern
may only be sold in limited quantities (maximum 10 pieces per year). If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact me on
Instagram or by email ([email protected])

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 A big thank you to my
testers

@_julimax_ @jessis_haekelwelt @anis_herzstuecke

@denise_haekelwelt @vivis.maschenzauber

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