JUTE IN TECHNICAL TEXTILES

Prabir Ray1 & Mallika Datta2

Against the backdrop of growing global concern for environment, jute being a natural
fibre can certainly be considered as a potential candidate for many of the eco-friendly
products that will replace majority of today's popular products posing severe threats to
our environment. An area which offers new possibilities for jute (and jute has the
potential for meeting the challenge) is the growing market for natural fibres for
industrial applications provided jute products are able to meet stringent quality
specifications and there is improvement in quality/production of lighter and better jute
fabrics. At the same time there is a need to create newer market with innovative
products, adaptation of new technologies for use of jute in technical textiles,
composite materials and other industrial applications. The diversified fibre qualities
and its adaptations to meet the requirements of newer products with better standards
can lead to development of newer markets. This calls for product development and
market development along with assurance of meeting stringent quality standards and
specifications. The work on new product and technology needs to focus on solutions,
which are appropriate and cost effective based on a complete understanding of the
inherent strength and capabilities of the jute fibre. Apart from Research and
Development for newer products and better technology there should be constant
upgrading of products design and quality to cater to an ever changing market and not
only to retain existing market share but also to increase it.

1.0 Introduction:

Jute is the common name given to the fibre obtained from the bark of the two
cultivated species of the genus Corchorus, viz, C. Capsularis (white jute) and C.
Olitorius (Tossa jute) of the family Tiliaceae. Jute is cultivated in the alluvial plains
in the tropical and subtropical zones in South Asia region. India alone, accounts for
about 50% of the world production of jute and allied fibre(1).
Jute plant grows to 2.5 to 3.5 meters in height at maturity. Jute fibre is extracted from
the stem of the plant by a microbiological process known as retting. Retting of jute
normally carried out in running water, may also be done chemically. Typical yield of
fibre based on the stem from which it is derived is about 6% by weight (2).

1. Principal, Institute of Jute Technology, Kolkata, India.

2. Research Fellow, Institute of Jute Technology, Kolkata, India.

1.1 Physico-Chemical Properties of Jute:

Jute, unlike cotton, is multicellular fibre. Rings of fibre cell bundles from a tubular
mesh that encase the entire stem. A single fibre of jute is a bundle of overlapping cells
forming one of the links of the mesh. The number of cells (ultimate cells), in one such
bundle is ranging from a minimum of 8-9 to maximum of 20-25. Each cell is roughly
polygonal in shape with a central canal or lumen accounting for about 10% of cell
area of cross section. The cells are firmly attached to one another laterally by an
isotropic amorphous matrix and the regions at the interface of the two cells are termed
as middle lamella. Cells, when separated chemically, resemble elongated bodies with
tapered ends ranging from 0.8 mm to 6 mm in length, with a length to breadth ratio of
110(3-5).

Table 1. Dimension of ultimate cells of Capsularies and Olitorious jute:

Dimensions Capsularis jute Olitorius jute
Length (mm) 0.8-6.0 0.8-6.0
Cell width, (µm) 5-25 5-25
Aspect ratio 110 110

Physical properties of jute fibre with an emphasis on some special properties useful
for technical textiles have been shown in the table 2.

Table 2. Physical and related properties of jute fibre.

Single fibre
Gravimetric fineness (tex) 1.25-5
Tenacity (g/tex) 30-50
Extension at break (%) 1.0-2.0
Initial modulus (g/tex) 1170-1980
Modulus of Rigidity ( 103 GPa) 0.25-1.3
Flexural rigidity (10 -9 N.m2 ) 3.0-6.0

Fibre Bundle
Tenacity (g/tex) 13-35
Density (g/cm3) 1.45
General
Moisture regain (%) at 65% RH 12.0
at 100% RH 36.0
Crystallinity (%) 50-55
Angle of Orientation (Degree) 7-9
 Transverse swelling in water (%)
20-22

Swelling in water (Area wise) (%) 40-45

Refractive Index (parallel to fibre axis) 1.577
(perpendicular to fibre axis) 1.536
Specific heat (Cal/g/0C) 0.324
Coefficient of friction 0.45-0.54

Table 3. shows the chemical constituent of ligno cellulosic jute fibre. Jute fibre may
be considered to be a composite with anisotropic cellulose micro fibrils acting as the
load bearing entity in an isotropic lignin matrix with hemicellulose acting as the
coupling agent between the two. The hemicellulose is strongly bonded to cellulose
micro fibrils by hydrogen bond and a portion of hemicellulose is linked to lignin
hydroxyls through its uronic acid groups forming ester linkage. Contribution of
cementing materials i.e. lignin and hemicellulose to the tensile property of jute fibre
both in dry and wet condition is enormous. It was observed that when jute is treated
with chemical agent employed in textile pretreatments and bleaching processes lignin,
hemicellulose and other encrusting substance are attacked and to some extent
removed. The greater extent of this removal, the more will be the lowering in the
strength of jute fibre.

Table 3. Chemical Composition (% by bone dry weight) of jute.

Constituent (%)
α- Cellulose 58-62
Lignin 12-14
Hemicellulose 21-22
Fat and Waxes 0.4-0.8
Pectin 0.2-0.5
Mineral matter 0.6-1.2
Nitrogenous matter (% N2 X 6.25) 0.8-2.5

1.2 Gradation of jute:

Depending upon six fibre quality attributes viz. strength, defects, root content, colour
and lustre, fineness and bulk density, weightage for the each of the six attributes of
the jute fibre mentioned above were given according to their importance with
reference to end product quality. Total marks of 100 have been distributed for the six
attributes accordingly. The best quality fibre with maximum score is termed as grade
1. Jute has been graded into 8 white (C. Capsularis) grades i.e. W1, W2, W3,
W4,……….. W8 and 8 tossa (C. Olitorius) grades TD1, TD2, TD3, TD4,………….
TD8 in descending order of quality (6).

1.3 Life Cycle of Jute:

Retted jute
Pollution
Jute Production Jute Fibre
production

Residue

Soil enrichment Jute Product

Biodegraded material Product waste


Jute cultivation creates a large direct employment to the farmers, Industrial
Workers and indirect employment to workers associated with ancilliary
Industries

Jute cultivation prevents migration to cities.

Leaves which are left in the field are good manures and increase the fertility
of land. Such fields are therefore very good for cultivating other crops.
Stems are used for other products/energy.(11)

1.4 Salient Features of Jute:

Jute is a ligno cellulosic, natural fibre. As an environment friendly fibre it deteriorates
organically and can be disposed in landfills and is easily and safely incinerated
leaving behind no toxic gases or residues. The fibre is both reusable and disposable. It
is annually renewable natural product and so makes no demand on the world's scarce
energy resources. The fibre is strong and durable. The products are aesthetically
pleasing and versatile in nature and environmentally safe. Jute fibre has high strength
and modulus, low extensibility, appreciable moisture regain, good dyeability with
almost all types of dyes, good thermal stability, irregular surface morphology.
The major drawbacks of jute, which restrict its use in major application areas, are its
coarse nature, harsh feel, surface fuzziness, prominent hairiness and poor washability.
The advantages of the products conventionally made from jute are listed in table 4(7).
Those advantages can be viewed as the consequence of the property profile
highlighted before.

Table 4:
Property Jute
Favourable Unfavourable
Durability x
Hook resistance x
Stack stability x
Contamination x x
Content preservation x
Static charge generation x
Skin irritation x
Weight x x
Biodegradability x
Elasticity x x
Cost x

Jute is in favourable position for most of the properties in the different application
area. All the properties tabulated are not required in all end uses and hence, for
specific product development for particular end use, appropriate properties have to be
understood and the relative advantages of jute are to be recognised in an intrinsic
sense. Weightage for different properties will also vary with the end use. In some
cases it may also be appropriate to make mixed or union fabric or blends of jute and
synthetic since such a composition might combine the advantage of both the fibre by
covering up the disadvantage of either.
2.0 Jute Diversified Products:

Jute has always been famous for its use in packaging. But changing times, newer uses
have found for this wonder fibre. Its natural texture and strength lend it to a variety of
uses, both functional and decorative. A variety of handicraft, handloom items are
being produced from jute/ jute yarn /jute fabric by common people in tiny sector as
mentioned in Fig. 1.

Jute Fibre

Yarn Fibre Hand Braiding

Fabric Braided Knitted Hand Knotted

Handicraft
Bleaching, Dyeing Diversified Fabric
and/or Printing,
Finishing

Fig. 1: JUTE DIVERSIFIED PRODUCT IN TINY SECTORS

These products varies from cushion covers to lampshades, from hats to footwear and
from bags to fashion accessories. Jute yarn and/or jute yarn blended with other fibre
are used for producing decorative yarn, special yarn. Treatment of blended yarn with
suitable chemicals brings about bulk and shrinkage that helps in giving an added
aesthetics to the items produced.
A summarised list of available diversified products is given below
 Bags for all purposes:
Shopping bags, Carry bags, Promotional bags. Cosmetic bags, Children bags, School
bags, Garden bags, Ladies’ evening bags, Tote bags, Wing bottle bags, Garment bags,
Tea bags, Postal bags, Waste disposal bags etc.
 Garden Sets:
Comprising Tool bags, Apron, Hats and Gloves.
 Dolls and Stuffed Toys.
 Home Textile and Interior Products :
Tussles, Curtains, Pillow / Cushion covers, Blankets, Bedcovers, Lamp shades,
Magazine bags, Shoe racks, Room dividers, Carpets Durries, Wall hangings, Woven
blinds, Hessian memo boards, Kitchen wear etc.
 Table Top Items:
Tablemats, Tea cosy sets, Dinner table sets etc.
 Foot Wear:
Beach sandals, Ladies and children sleepers, Room slippers.
 Soft Luggage and Travel Accessories:
Folding Collapsible bags, Trolleys, Suit cases, Waist belt bags, Backpacks etc.
 Promotion and Premium Trade:
Calendars, Portfolio bags, File covers, Promotion bags and shoppers, Spectacle cases
Gifts and Stationery:
Photo frames, Greeting cards, Pencil holders, Desk items, Purse sets etc.
 Storage boxes and Gift boxes
 Christmas Decorations
 Handicrafts (Fibre Crotchet Work) :
Wall hangings, Bead curtains, Lampshades, Tablemats, Coasters, Hanging chairs,
Ethnic flowerpots, Vegetable market bags, Hammocks etc.
 Apparel, Garments and Fashion Accessories:
Hats, Jackets / Waistcoats, Party Dresses, Designer fabric, Buttons, Laces,
Embroideries, Patchwork, Cord work, Fringes, Printed fabrics and Speciality fabric
etc.
 Gift Packing:
Ribbons, Sachets, Candy bags, Decorative boxes, small bags (customised) etc.

3.0 Jute based Technical Textiles:

The growing disinclination to use artificial fibres and increasing preference for natural
fibres may revive the importance of jute. With growing concern regarding
environment, mainly because of non-biodegradability and higher toxicity of synthetic
substitutes, new market opportunities will arise for natural fibres like jute.
Environmental legislation/regulation by National Government may open up new
market for jute and allied fibres. Choice of discerning consumers in favour of
environmentally friendly products would further expand the market. Jute, a natural
fibre which easily renewable and a biodegradable commodity, would find favour with
consumers focusing on eco friendly materials from sustainable resources. But at the
same time we have to look into the traditional usages of jute and emphasis the role of
diversified sector. Therefore, concerted efforts need to be made to explore non-
traditional products mainly used for technical function as mentioned in Fig. 2.
 .

Jute Fibre
Yarn Woven/Non-
woven/Knitted
Cord/Twine Woven
Non-woven
Agrotech Buildtech
Industrial Packaging Composites
Applications Geotech Clothtech

Mobiltech Oekotec
Traditional Non-Traditional Rigid Flexible
Packaging Packaging

1. Food Grade Jute Bag

2. Packaging of Lower Capacity
3. Flexible Intermediate Bulk

Fig. 2: TECHNICAL TEXTILES FROM JUTE

Three broad areas require special mention, which could lead to the usefulness of the
fibre and the development of jute industry in the world.

3.1 Food grade jute products:

Food grade quality hessian cloth and sacks are eminently suitable for packaging
products like cocoa, coffee beans, shelled nuts, sugar, flour, rice, wheat, spices fruit,
vegetable etc., so on because of the absence of hydrocarbons and unpleasant odours.
Increasing health consciousness among the public holds out considerable promise for
this classic packaging product. The technical features of such products embrace two
different aspects:
a) Raw material and Technology
b) Quality Assurance.
Jute batching oil (JBO) and water which have been recommended for use in jute
processing are used in the form of water-based emulsion being sprayed on dry jute
fibre. The fibre after receiving the spray is piled for a definite duration and thereafter
the piled jute is put to use in processing. During this period, the required softening
takes place in fibre, which is actually required for satisfactory spinning. The fibre is
softened and lubricated with oil and water and thereby becomes amenable to
mechanical processing without excessive fibre breakage and waste. Needless to
mention this phenomenon also takes care of twisting of fibres for adequate cohesion
and strength in the yarn. The experience gained over the years suggests that oil and
water as mentioned are indispensable in jute processing. However, there is also a
technical limit of oil add-on in the fibre beyond which oil creates problem in
processing. The oil what is added to fibre is not totally present in the finished product,
a part of this oil is evaporated and is lost in the process and the rest remains. During
transit and storage of finished products, there may be a small loss of oil but the
finished goods ultimately hold a good portion of the oil added. The oil (JBO) is
mostly composed of different types of relatively high molecular weight hydrocarbons
both saturated and unsaturated, and are aliphatic and alicyclic in nature. One major
draw back for this oil is its unpleasant and repulsive odour which most of the time are
not liked by users. The oil is not biodegradable and comes from a non-renewable
natural resource. The batching oil in jute bags with 6% oil content can in all
possibility migrate from the jute to the material inside the package and there by
deteriorate the quality of the material in many ways. In case of food packaging, this
issue is very serious as oil that has migrated in to the food item may introduce an oily
taste in the food. Further there may be danger to health and ecology if such jute bags
are used regularly for packaging of food items ingredients. It is worth mentioning here
that when JBO is present at 3% or below level in the jute bags, such bags are being
accepted by Bureau of India Standard (BIS) for Eco Mark.
The wake of this growing concern about health and environment the world over,
notable in USA and Europe emerged the new jute bags. This jute bags are processed
with a vegetable oil, i.e., Rice Bran Oil (RBO) and comply with the specification IJO
98/01 for Food Grade Jute Bags. Currently in the International trade the bags are
marketed as Food Grade Jute Bags from India. (12)
Rice Bran oil is a vegetable oil and is derived from paddy. A special grade of this oil
is used in manufacture of Food Grade Jute product (FGJP) confirms the following
criteria.
 The batching emulsion used contains other than RBO, chemicals, additives
which are eco-friendly.
 The bag does not emit any odour untypical of jute and thus complies with
requirement of IJO 98/01 in the area of organoleptic criteria.
 The bag conforms to most important parameters in IJO 98/01 i.e.,
unsaponified matter not to exceed 1250 ppm/bag.
 The bag is more stable to UV radiation exposure.
India Jute Industry is now fully geared to manufacture hydrocarbon free Food Grade
Jute Product to cater the complete needs of global users. The threat for possible
contaminations of hydrocarbons in food items is finally over. Cocoa beans/Coffee
beans and edible nuts are saved from hydrocarbons contamination when packed in
India Food Grade Jute Bags. A few standard Food Grade Jute Bags are given in the
table 5(8).
Table 5.
Food Warp x Ends/dm x Length x Bag Tensile Seam
Grade Weft (tex) Picks/dm Width (cm) weight strength strength
Jute Bag (g) Warp Weft (Kg.)
(Kg.) (Kg.)
50kg. DW 379 x 930 76 x 28 94 x 57 665 160 145 45
Twill
100kg 379 x 896 76 x 31 112 x 67.5 1025 160 165 62
Twill
100kg 379 x 896 102 x 35 112 x 67.5 1190 204 180 67
Twill
50kg. 379 x 896 68 x 31 87.5 x 58.5 630 160 145 45
Twill
Hessian 276 x 336 47 x 47 119.5 x 76 590 112 120 34

3.2 Jute Geotextiles:

Jute Geotextiles (JGT) can be described as natural fibre engineering material to meet
technical and functional requirements for soil related problems. It is the natural
economical and eco-friendly answer to geo-technical problem. There are several
advantages of jute geotextiles arising out of its inherent, distinguishing characteristics,
which make them eco compatible and soil friendly for end uses in soil consolidation,
road construction, river bank and coastal protective work, construction of earthen
embankments, slope management, soil erosion control etc.(13)
JGT finds its application in the area of Civil Engineering:
 Surface Soil Erosion Control in Slopes and Plains
 Stability of Embankments (Roads/ Railways / Flood)
 Strengthening of Sub-grade in Roads
 Protection of Banks of Rivers & Waterways
 Sub-surface Drainage
 Soft soil Consolidation
And other sectors are
 Agriculture
 Horticulture
 Forestry
Jute is renewable and eco friendly natural fibre and has properties very suitable for
many technical applications in the area of geotextiles. One of the problems as also
strength of jute fibre is however its biodegradability and natural preference over the
synthetic geotextiles lies on indicative cost comparison between the two. Followings
are the advantages offered by jute fibre as JGT
 High moisture absorbing capacity
 Excellent drapability
 High initial tensile strength
 Can be tailor-made
 Biodegrability and improve soil structure
  Renewable resource and easily available
 Economical

JGT withstands stresses in the constructional phases, prevents intermixing of different

soil layers, acting as separator, performs filtration function and also controls lateral
dispersion, subsidence & slides. JGT performs five basic functions such as separation,
filtration and drainage, initial reinforcement, control of surface soil detachment and
vegetation or biotechnical support.
a) Separation: JGT segregates two layers preventing their intermixing and
separation process induces natural consolidation by formation of ‘filter-cake’
in soil.
b) Drainage and Filtration: Permittivity and transmittivity of JGT are high and
acts as drain within its own thickness. Prefabricated Jute drain drains out water
from the compressible soft soil and body prevents differential settlement of
overlying structure. JGT offers proper drainage of soil and accelerates its
consolidation. JGT can perform two contrasting functions viz. soil retention on
one hand and ensuring permeability of water through and along JGT on the
other.
c) Initial Reinforcement: JGT acts against rotational slides, lateral dispersion and
vertical subsidence when inserted within a soil body at appropriate levels at
initial stages. It also exerts confining action on soil and absorbs a part of the
stress causing shear failure.
d) Control of surface soil detachment: JGT can prevent rain splash detachment of
surfacial soil particles and arrest their migration thus reduces the velocity of
surface run-off of the soil. Jute retains water by about 5 times its own dry
weight, which is highest among all fibres hence controls dehydration of soil
and reduces erodeability co-efficient of soil. Jute adds nutrients to the soil and
acts as mulch on biodegradation.
e) Vegetation or biotechnical support: JGT ensures soil attachment with roots
and strengthens the soil, dissipates KE of raindrops. JGT is a receptor of
moisture and attenuates wind effects. JGT improves micro-climatic conditions
(viz. temperature, moisture) and enhances organic matter levels of soil.
Table 6 Product range available for Jute Geotextiles (9)

Type
Properties Open Mesh Typical Woven Nonwoven
Woven Geotextiles Geotextiles (for Geotextiles (for
(for control of separation & filtration &
surface & erosion) filtration) drainage)
Weight (g/m2) 292-730 760-1200 500-1000
Threads/dm (MD x CD) 12-7 x 12-7 102 x 39
Thickness (mm) 3-7 2-3 4-8
Open area (%) 60-40
Width (cm) 122 76 150
Strength (kN/m) (MD x CD) 10-12 x 10-12 20-21 x 20 4-6 x 5-7
Elongation at break (%) (MD x CD) 10 x10 20 x 25
Pore size (O90) Micron 300-150 500-300
Coefficient of water permittivity 3.4 – 0.34
(10-3 m/s)
Water permeability at 10cm. water 50-20
head (l/m2/s)
Puncture resistance (N/cm2) 380-400
Water holding capacity (% on dry 400-500
weight basis)
Durability (yrs.) Max. 2 1-4 1

3.3 Other Technical Textile:

3.3.1 Agricultural textile:

Agricultural textiles is now widely used for the following end uses
 Sun screens
 Plant nets
 Wind shield
 Harvesting nets
 Nets for protecting crop from birds
 Weed protection
 Mulching
 Nursery nets
Even though fine polyolefins, polyester, polyethylene nets of warp knitted structure
are widely used but jute fabric with low aereal density in the form of woven, knitted
or nonwoven are slowly becoming popular in the following application areas.
Application areas
- Mulch on seedbeds
- Soil conservation
- Development of forests in semi-arid zones
- Nursery shed
- Weed management
Jute based agro textiles offer different advantages when used in different applications
Advantages & cost of material

Jute based agro textiles Advantages

1. Mulch Less labour

Irrigation same
Higher germination
Higher growth
Higher survival rate

2. Soil conservation Significant reduction of soil Loss

Reduction of loss of soil Nutrients
After degradation improves soil properties

3. Development of forests Controls soil erosion

Conserves soil moisture
Faster growth of plants

4. Weed management Reduces weeds by 60%

Conserves soil moisture
Increases productivity

5. Jute nursery cover Identical growth rate

Table 7 Product range available for Jute Agrotextiles

Seed bed Nursery Cover Weed management

Type of fabric Woven Woven Nonwoven
Weight (g/m2) 300 400 300-500
Threads/dm --
(warp) 12 34
(weft) 12 15
Width (cm) 122 122 150
Thickness (mm) 3 4 2-4
Open area (%) 65 40 --
Coverage (%) -- -- 100
Tensile Strength
(kN/m)
warp 10 12 2-6
weft 10 10

3.3.2 Coated textile:

Suitably woven jute fabric can be conveniently coated with different elastomers to
have products, such as hospital sheeting (mackintosh), double texture rubberised
fabric for luggage, flexible hood for automobiles, chemical resistant sheet for
industrial house and many others. High strength and low extensibility, good thermal
stability, irregular surface morphology of the jute fibre appears to be advantageous for
producing such items.
Jute fabric can also be lined with aluminium foil following established technique. Tea
bag produced out of such jute fabric-aluminium foil laminate appears to have
potential for replacement of conventionally used relatively expensive tea bag made
from Kraft paper aluminium foil laminate (14).

Table 8 Typical jute fabric used for coated product

Product Type of Warp x Ends/dm x Width Weight

fabric Weft (tex) Picks/dm (cm) (g/m2)
Hospital sheeting Woven 207 x 207 40 x 32 102 135
Flexible hood Woven 207 x 207 40 x 67 102 235
Double texture fabric Woven 207 x 275 60 x 60 102 278
Single texture fabric Woven 207 x 207 80 x 80 107 317

3.3.3 Jute fibre based composite used as Buildtech & Mobiltech :

In order to reduce deforestation for maintaining ecological balance, there is drive to

develop wood substitute using renewable resources. Jute fibre reinforced resin
composite finds a significant role in the area of building and construction. The
products such as door for house and toilet, corrugated sheet for flooring and false
roof, garden canopy, garden fence, street lamps can be made with this jute based
composite.
Commercial production of jute board from jute hessian fabric and nonwoven
employing water-soluble thermosetting resins has already been started in India. Many
product of this category are coming up to cater the need of Indian Railways for coach
building purpose for the replacement of wood and plywood. For automotive interior
application jute nonwoven polyester composite has already been introduced
commercially. Use of jute fabric, yarn and nonwovens with polyester resin matrix
were successfully done employing conventional pultrusion process to have product
such as doorframe. Resin transfer moulding technology has also been employed to
have product such as door, automotive component, instrument panel, truck hood etc.
Moulded automotive door panels are made of nonwoven jute fabric with unsaturated
polyester resins.
3.3.4 Pulp and Paper:

The demand for pulp and paper is increasing globally and is expected to grow
concerns of environmental degradation and sustainable development have forced
many countries to explore the options of recycling paper and experimenting with non
wood sources for making pulp. Whole jute plant has been found to be an excellent
raw material for making pulp and paper. Table 9 shows a comparison of physical
properties of paper made out of whole jute plant in comparison to bamboo(10).
International Jute Study Group has already brought out a technical manual of paper
production.

Table 9. Physical properties of writing paper from whole jute plant and bamboo
Raw material Yield % Burst Index Tear Index Tensile index
kPa- m2/g. mN-m2/g kN/m
Whole jute 45.00 3.64 13.71 28.51
plant
Bamboo 41.66 2.28 10.5 25.03

3.4 Conclusions:

The strategy for growth therefore aims at diversification and value added jute based
products, textile and non-woven, for a whole range of applications. Product
development and market development along with assurance of premium quality and
creation of awareness among consumers around the globe regarding the advantage of
jute would effectively promote increased use of jute. To satisfy the needs of this
sector it would be necessary to develop a much wider range of jute yarns and fabrics
using diverse technologies. .
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