Original Article ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts

ISSN (Online): 2582-7472 July-December 2024 5(2), 111–121

EXPLORING THE KALAMKARI THROUGH HAND-PAINTED TEXTILE ART

Preethi Gollapalle 1 , Dileep Kumar Kota 1 , Rajesh Kumar 2

1 Bachelor Student, Department of Fashion Design, School of Arts and Design Woxsen University, Hyderabad, Telangana, India
2 Assistant Professor, Department of Fashion Design, School of Arts and Design Woxsen University, Hyderabad, Telangana, India

ABSTRACT
Indian calligraphy, or kalamkari, is a highly regarded traditional art form whose
elaborate hand-painted motifs on textiles have attracted art fans for years. This paper
delves into the intricate world of Kalamkari, a traditional Indian art form celebrated for
its hand-painted textile artworks. The study aims to uncover Kalamkari's historical
Received 10 April 2024
evolution, cultural significance, and contemporary relevance through a multidimensional
Accepted 05 July 2024
Published 11 July 2024
exploration. The methodology combines a thorough literature review, field study, visual
analysis of artworks, and comparative examination across regions and historical periods.
Corresponding Author The literature review provides insights into Kalamkari's origins, techniques, and socio-
Rajesh Kumar, cultural contexts, while field study involves interactions with artisans and
[email protected] documentation of their techniques and processes. Visual analysis scrutinizes motifs,
DOI colours, and narrative elements in Kalamkari textiles, illuminating their aesthetic and
10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.109 symbolic dimensions.
1
Funding: This research received no Keywords: Kalamkari, Indian Textile Art, Hand-Painted, Cultural Heritage, Traditional
specific grant from any funding agency in Craftsmanship
the public, commercial, or not-for-profit
sectors.
Copyright: © 2024 The Author(s).
This work is licensed under a Creative
Commons Attribution 4.0
International License.
With the license CC-BY, authors retain
the copyright, allowing anyone to
download, reuse, re-print, modify,
distribute, and/or copy their
contribution. The work must be
properly attributed to its author.

1. INTRODUCTION
India's artistic heritage is embodied in the beloved symbol of kalamkari, an age-
old craft known for its painstaking hand-painting and printing methods on cloth.
Born out of the ancient domains of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, Kalamkari has
been appreciated for generations for its depictions of stories from sacred texts like
the Mahabharata, the Ramayana, and the Bhagavatam. The title "Kalamkari," which
is derived from the word "kalam," which means pen, emphasizes how detailed this
art form is and how each stroke on fabric conveys a tale. This is a laborious
technique that requires 23 different procedures, starting with the fabric's initial
softening and sun-drying and continuing with the careful preparation of natural
How to cite this article (APA): Gollapalle, P., Kota, D. K., and Kumar, R. (2024). Exploring the Kalamkari Through Hand-Painted 111
Textile Art. ShodhKosh: Journal of Visual and Performing Arts, 5(2), 111–121. doi: 10.29121/shodhkosh.v5.i2.2024.1091
 Exploring the Kalamkari Through Hand-Painted Textile Art

pigments, layer-by-layer application of colours, and thorough rinsing in between

layers. Two primary styles within the Kalamkari domain are Machilipatnam, which
is distinguished by its block-printing techniques, and Srikalahasti, which is marked
by its freehand drawing skills. Reptiles, tigers, graceful deer, the Tree of Life, and
other themes inspired by nature's abundance are among the motifs that frequently
adorn Kalamkari sculptures. Hand-washing cotton to remove starch and then sun-
drying it to make sure the canvas is ready for painting or printing are the careful
steps involved in preparing cloth for Kalamkari Sonia (2024).
Kalamkari faces modern difficulties, primarily related to the declining number
of artists passing on the trade to future generations, despite its rich cultural legacy
and distinguished past. The practice is now only carried out by a small group of
knowledgeable practitioners. That being said, there are deliberate efforts afoot to
revitalize and preserve this singular art form, guaranteeing its survival for posterity
to treasure and honour. When it comes to creating everlasting masterpieces that
speak to the deep stories and customs of the country, Kalamkari is essentially a
moving testament to India's rich artistic legacy. It accomplishes this by skillfully
weaving intricate motifs and natural colours into textiles Shelar (2021).

2. OBJECTIVE
The major objective of this research study is to explore the traditional art of
Kalamkari through a detailed examination of hand-painted textile artworks. This
involves analyzing the historical context, techniques, materials, and motifs used in
Kalamkari, and understanding its cultural significance and evolution over time.

3. SIGNIFICANCE
This research is significant as it aims to preserve and promote the rich heritage
of Kalamkari, a traditional Indian art form. The study contributes to the appreciation
and understanding of this cultural practice by documenting and analysing the
intricate details of hand-painted textile art. It also provides valuable insights for
contemporary artists and designers, encouraging the integration of traditional
techniques into modern textile design and fostering cultural continuity.

4. REVIEW AND LITERATURE

Kalamkari, a unique and captivating form of hand-painted textile art, has long
been a source of fascination for scholars, artists, and enthusiasts alike. The intricate
designs, vibrant colours, and rich cultural significance of this ancient craft have
made it an integral part of India's textile heritage.
Kerala, a state renowned for its diverse artistic traditions, has been a significant
contributor to the preservation and promotion of Kalamkari. The state's handicraft
industry, which employs over 1. 7 lakh artisans, is a testament to the creative spirit
and skilled craftsmanship of its people Devaraj (2021). Kerala's textile art forms,
including Kalamkari, are celebrated for their precise craftsmanship, distinct creative
features, and unrivaled sense of colour.
The history of Kalamkari in Kerala can be traced back to the influence of Tamil
Nadu weavers who settled in the region, bringing with them the knowledge and
techniques of this captivating art form. Painted Textile Depicting Celestial
Musicians. (2009) Over time, Kerala's Kalamkari has developed its own unique
aesthetic, characterized by its vibrant hues and intricate patterns.

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The diversification of Kalamkari into various applications, from home decor to

apparel and accessories, has further expanded its reach and appreciation. The use
of Kalamkari motifs in Kerala's renowned mural paintings, with their distinct color
application techniques, has also contributed to the art form's cultural significance.
Akshaya et al. (2020)

5. THE HISTORICAL EVOLUTION AND ARTISTIC PROCESS OF

KALAMKARI
Kalamkari has a more than three millennium-old history, and during the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, it had a revolutionary effect on the Indian
textile trade. The art form known as Kalamkari, which dates back to the 16th
century, became well-known in South India as a mural addition in temples,
especially in the Vijayanagar Kingdom. After a while, the Sultans of Golconda gave
the art form a new name: Kalamkari. The word "kalam" means pen, and the word
"kari" implies art. With its vivid colours and elaborate designs becoming popular
throughout Europe in the 17th century, Kalamkari became more and more in
demand from the Mughals, Persians, Dutch, English, and French. Problems for
Kalamkari included English weavers' complaints, which in the early eighteenth
century led to import prohibitions Chandra (2015).
Figure 1

Figure 1 Kalamkari Fabric

The development of the Indonesian batik industry and the European cotton
industry also had an impact on its downfall. There aren't many documented
processes or dye recipes because the craft, which is rooted in superstition and
tradition, was once only practised by a small number of people. The All India
Handicrafts Board, together with the support of local enthusiasts, helped bring the
industry back to life in locations like Masulipatnam and Kalahasti, where it had
almost completely vanished by the mid-20th century. Currently, millions of people
are employed by Kalamkari, which plays a vital role in India's textile sector and
makes a substantial economic contribution. With more than 1,200 artisan families
specializing in different Kalamkari fabrics, the little Andhra Pradesh village of
Pedana has become a centre for Kalamkari block printing. The eco-friendly and
sustainable processes of Kalamkari are highlighted by the materials used in its
creation, which include cotton fabric and natural colours derived from plants such
as tamarind, indigo, alum, and Indian madder root Baral (2015). Kalamkari, which
means "pen-work," has a centuries-old and rich history. Despite its traditional
origins, Kalamkari has embraced contemporary technology, enabling artists to

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 Exploring the Kalamkari Through Hand-Painted Textile Art

improve and digitize their designs with unmatched accuracy and efficiency
Sengupta (2016).
This fusion of innovation and tradition makes sure that Kalamkari respects its
legacy while being relevant in the modern era. Using natural dyes derived from
fruits and plants and recycling water throughout the dying process, Kalamkari
artists place a high value on sustainability. Green practices are encouraged by the
use of handlooms that are powered by human energy. Encouraging these
craftspeople not only helps to maintain ancient crafts but also encourages ethical
and sustainable fashion methods, which is why Kalamkari has become a fashion
industry emblem for sustainability Shelar (2021).

5.1. PROCEDURES AND TECHNIQUE IN KALAMKARI

The precise use of natural dyes to hand-paint elaborate designs on cotton cloth
is the hallmark of the ancient Indian art form known as kalamkari. There are 23
phases in this procedure, which include preparing the fabric, drawing an outline
with charcoal and a bamboo pen, and layering on bright colours. To create the
desired look, these colours are rinsed in between applications. Religious stories, the
natural world, folklore, and mythology are some of the sources of inspiration for
Kalamkari art's themes and motifs. Buddhist art forms, peacocks, tigers, deer, floral
patterns, mihrab motifs, the Tree of Life, and images from the Ramayana and
Mahabharata are common motifs. Hindu mythology, Buddhism, and Persian art have
all been incorporated into Kalamkari over time, giving it a very special and
individual look. These days, kalamkari is utilized for a variety of items, including
furniture, clothes, and sarees, which helps to maintain this ancient art form and
support Andhra Pradesh artists Gandham (2022).
The complex hand painting of cotton fabrics using natural dyes and a resist
technique is known as kalamkari, an old Indian art form. There are two primary
Kalamkari traditional processes, each with a distinct methodology:
To give cotton material an off-white colour and smooth texture, the Srikalahasti
Technique first treats it with a solution of buffalo milk, myrobalan buds, and flower
paste. After that, they sketch initially with charcoal pencils made from burned
tamarind branches and then create detailed drawings with a bamboo pen dipped in
black dye. The fabric is mordanted with alum to give it a crimson colour, and a
particular mixture known as Kasim Kaaram is employed to achieve darker tones. In
contrast, the Machilipatnam Technique is a printing method wherein artists print
design contours and leading lines using hand-carved blocks. After the outline is
printed, the saree is coloured using wooden blocks, and each colour application is
allowed to dry for two to three days. These operations involve several steps, such as
treating the cloth, drawing on it, dying it, printing it, washing it, and even working
with gold or silver. To create vivid colours and intricate designs on fabrics,
Kalamkari artisans use natural materials like as buffalo milk, myrobalan, alum, and
numerous plant extracts. This art style, which has been passed down through the
generations in Andhra Pradesh's Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam, demonstrates a
rich cultural legacy that goes back thousands of years Ahuja (2023).

5.2. RAW MATERIAL

• Mayrabolan forms light yellow
• Kassim kaaram (Jaggery + Rusted iron filings + water) black outlines for the
fabric

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 Preethi Gollapalle, Dileep Kumar Kota, and Rajesh Kumar

• Natural Indigo produces Blue

• Pomegranate produces Golden yellow
• Catechu (Suryadu chakka) produces Rosemary
• Algerian produces Red
• Alum mixed with water gives out Gray Gupta & Rambabu (n.d.)

5.3. DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT

Diagram 1

Diagram 1 Gupta & Rambabu (n.d.)

Figure 2

Figure 2 Dye Preparation from Natural Source

Figure 3

Figure 3 Kalam

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 Exploring the Kalamkari Through Hand-Painted Textile Art

Figure 4

Figure 4 Outlining and Sketching

Figure 5

Figure 5 Colour Filling

6. GOVERNMENT AND INSTITUTIONAL SUPPORT TO

KALAMKARI UNITS
Governments have been extending their support to Kalamkari units through
various forms of assistance, including finance, subsidies, exhibitions, trade shows,
export promotion activities, and more. Notable schemes include:
1) Baba Saheb Ambedkar Hastshilp Vikas Yojana
2) S.V. Institute of Traditional Sculpture and Architecture, Tirupati
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3) Marketing Support and Service Scheme

4) Design and Technology Upgradation Scheme
5) Export Promotion Scheme
6) Research and Development Scheme
7) Training and Extension Scheme
8) Bima Yojana for Handicrafts Artisans
9) Special Handicrafts Training Projects
These schemes are introduced and implemented for the entire handicraft
segment. While these supporting schemes have benefitted Kalamkari artisans to a
certain extent, they are insufficient to significantly improve their livelihoods. The
niche sector is seeking further encouragement from the government to continue
preserving and promoting this unique artistic textile culture. Maddala & Chiruvoori
(2020)

7. SIGNIFICANT CONCERNS AND SUGGESTIONS FOR POLICY

MAKERS AND KALAMKARI ENTREPRENEURS
1) Marketing Network of Kalamkari
The absence of a systematic marketing network has been a significant
discouragement in the Kalamkari segment. Artisans should organize themselves
under a cooperative umbrella to market their products directly. Developing more
linkages with outside parties is crucial for this initiative.
2) Tourism-Centered Crafts
To propagate crafts culture and explore its commercial potential, tourism
development should go hand in hand with crafts development. There is substantial
scope for exploring craft-centered tourism possibilities.
3) Registration Norms for Authentic Kalamkari Work
Implementing strict registration norms for ancient Kalamkari work can help
reduce the proliferation of imitated items.
4) Design Registration of Kalamkari
Design registration should be mandatory for Kalamkari. Any new design
introduced by an artisan should be registered to prevent unauthorized copying.
5) Price Uniformity in Kalamkari
Prices of Kalamkari products are often erratic and inconsistent, leading to
customer dissatisfaction and potential negative impacts on demand. Pricing should
be standardized based on the categorization of art, skill level, and quality of raw
materials.
6) Research and Development in Kalamkari
Research and Development (R&D) are essential for improving product quality.
New items and designs can be developed through R&D, and environmental concerns
need to be addressed. Issues like the use of toxin substances (e.g., azo dyes), child
labor, and environmental conservation should be converted into opportunities to
enhance the acceptability of Indian products among affluent consumers.
7) Role of Technology
Product innovation and improvements in design and manufacturing
technologies should be introduced in the informal sector to uplift the economy.
Modern technologies can help bring necessary changes to the Kalamkari industry.

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8) Value Addition in Kalamkari

Organizations like the Development Commissioner (Handicrafts and Textiles)
should assist local units in producing value-added items. This will help penetrate
the local market and boost exports.
9) Window Display of Kalamkari Products
Promotional and marketing organizations should display Kalamkari products
in strategic locations such as airports, railway stations, bus stands, and commercial
centers. Effective window displays can attract customers and encourage impulse
buying, serving as a dynamic advertising tool.
10) Positioning of Kalamkari Products
Kalamkari products, created with traditional skills, are facing competition from
machine-made products. However, there is little competition or substitutes for
many Kalamkari items. Strategic positioning should highlight the uniqueness and
traditional craftsmanship of Kalamkari to maintain its market presence against
machine-made products. Maddala & Chiruvoori (2020)

8. A BLEND OF TRADITION AND COMMERCE WITH A SWOT

PERSPECTIVE
Indian artisans have traditionally made their living by hand-painting or
printing elaborate motifs onto cloth using natural dyes, a technique known as
"Kalamkari." During the Vijayanagara Empire, Kalamkari flourished, painting Hindu
mythology scenes on the interiors of temples. The main hub for Kalamkari craftsmen
in Andhra Pradesh, especially in the towns of Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti, where
the age-old art form is still practised and preserves traditional handicrafts while
creating jobs. Global recognition has been bestowed upon Kalamkari for its
inventive designs that fit in well with the creations of Indian designers and satisfy
the increasing demand for its fabrics both at home and abroad Mathur (2020a).
The amalgamation of Kalamkari with contemporary technologies signifies a
noteworthy progression in its cultural importance and worldwide accessibility.
Kalamkari was once a labour-intensive technique that used block printing or hand
painting, the incorporation of cutting-edge technology has transformed the art,
enabling faster and more accurate manufacturing of elaborate designs while
maintaining its cultural core. The seamless fusion of custom and technology
preserves Kalamkari's cultural heritage while also encouraging cooperation
between producers, designers, and artists, reviving the art form and guaranteeing
its ongoing significance in the modern era. The development of Kalamkari
essentially demonstrates the adaptability and tenacity of traditional art forms in a
society that is always evolving Kaur (2022).
With a long tradition of conserving genuine handcrafted artwork made with
natural dyes, Kalamkari is distinguished by its distinctive motifs. Because of the
elaborate procedure involved in the craft, every design is unique, with variations in
techniques found in styles such as Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti. Themes
frequently reference epics of mythology, such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata,
which reflect a millennium-old tradition that peaked in the fifteenth century.
Notwithstanding these advantages, the sector nevertheless has problems, such as
being primarily cottage-based and deficient in infrastructure and innovation.
Opportunities, however, are found in developing original goods using regional
resources, providing a distinctive product range, and reaching out to other markets.
Risks include competition from knockoff designs and problems with the availability

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 Preethi Gollapalle, Dileep Kumar Kota, and Rajesh Kumar

and quality of raw materials, highlighting the necessity of strategic development and
adaptation T (2023).

9. KALAMKARI IN CONTEMPORARY FASHION

The historical significance and unique nature of Kalamkari, an ancient Indian
textile art that dates back to the fifth century BCE, have endured throughout
millennia. This art form, which uses vivid colours and elaborate motifs to reflect
Indian mythology, culture, and nature, is well-known for its exquisite designs and
deep cultural origins. The motifs on Kalamkari fabrics are long-lasting, becoming
more vibrant with each washing because of age-old techniques and organic colours
like pomegranate, turmeric, and indigo. The intricate designs of Kalamkari fabrics
are guaranteed to survive abrasion thanks to the use of block printing and hand
painting techniques that further improve their durability. Colours are applied by
artisans using a bamboo pen, or kalam, which gives each piece a distinctive look.
Because of their durability, Kalamkari textiles are becoming a popular option for
clothing, home décor, and textile art. Designers and craftspeople are striving to
conserve and promote the age-old designs and techniques of Kalamkari, which has
seen a resurgence of attention in recent years Garg (2023).
In traditional Indian art, the Kalamkari symbolises perseverance and
everlasting beauty, embracing technical innovations to thrive in the digital age.
Known as the "artistry of the pen," this type of art entails the meticulous hand-
rendered creation of elaborate motifs and narratives onto fabric with a tamarind
pen. Weeks of careful labour are needed for the technique, which involves dying
cotton cloth with hand-drawn patterns and natural colours derived from plants.
Kalamkari has accepted contemporary technologies while retaining its identity in
the face of modernization. By permitting the creation of more elaborate designs,
faster production, and global accessibility, techniques such as digital printing have
complimented conventional approaches. Kalamkari's reach has increased and new
creative opportunities have been created by this fusion of tradition and
contemporary. Along with the traditional sarees and scarves, Kalamkari now offers
a wide range of products that combine modern aesthetics with timeless appeal, such
as digitally printed lehengas, accessories, and home decor. Kalamkari is a beautiful
treat that is also highly significant culturally, drawing visitors who want to interact
with India's rich past in a modern setting Gupta (2020a).
Figure 6

Figure 6 Lakme Fashion Week Winter Festive 2017 Sonal (n.d.)

https://in.pinterest.com/pin/390898442659004500/
https://pinkpeppercorn.in/top-5-favorites-from-the-lakme-fashion-week-winter-festive-2017/

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 Exploring the Kalamkari Through Hand-Painted Textile Art

The elaborate hand-painted or block-printed designs on silk and cotton that are
characteristic of the ancient Indian art style known as kalamkari have seen a
resurgence in contemporary fashion. Together with craftspeople, designers and
manufacturers are producing cutting-edge clothing that combines traditional
themes and methods with modern flair. The fashion industry's increasing focus on
sustainability is the driving force for this comeback, as Kalamkari provides a
distinctive, handmade substitute for mass-produced apparel. A diverse strategy is
advised by specialists to conserve and advance this trade. Campaigns for education
and awareness, exhibitions, workshops, partnerships with designers and artists,
integration into marketplaces for art and home décor, encouragement of fair-trade
and artisan cooperatives, and the use of digital platforms for e-commerce and
storytelling are all examples of this. The resurgence is mostly due to modern
technology, which makes Kalamkari easily adaptable to contemporary style. For
example, digital printing has completely changed how Kalamkari designs are
created and reproduced on fabrics. It allows designers to explore a vast array of
colours, patterns, and motifs while maintaining the genuine essence of the art form
Malini Divakala. (2014).
Adding state-of-the-art technologies has also increased Kalamkari's
sustainability. The fashion industry's transition to eco-friendly methods is in line
with digital printing, which allows for accurate design execution, minimizes waste,
and uses less water without sacrificing quality or innovation. Kalamkari's seamless
integration of technology and tradition has made it well-known throughout the
world. Through the use of online platforms and e-commerce networks, modern
Kalamkari has become widely available, bridging cultural divides and exhibiting the
ageless beauty and skill of this age-old art form Rani (n.d.-a).

10. CONCLUSION
This research study explored the traditional art of Kalamkari through an in-
depth examination of hand-painted textile artworks. By analyzing its historical
context, techniques, materials, and motifs, we gained a comprehensive
understanding of Kalamkari's rich cultural significance and evolution over time. The
study highlighted the intricate processes and traditional methods that distinguish
Kalamkari, emphasizing the importance of preserving these practices amidst
modern challenges. Furthermore, the insights into the cultural narratives and
symbolic meanings embedded in the motifs underscored Kalamkari's role in
sustaining regional heritage. Despite the pressures from mass production and
market dynamics, the dedication to maintaining traditional techniques and the
support from governmental and non-governmental organizations offer a promising
future for this art form. The study concludes that continued education, innovation,
and market development efforts are crucial for the sustained growth and
appreciation of Kalamkari as a unique and valuable cultural legacy.

CONFLICT OF INTERESTS
None.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
None.

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