100% found this document useful (2 votes)

4K views570 pages

Aatcc 2023

Uploaded by

oussamaneffati31

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

100% found this document useful (2 votes)

4K views570 pages

Aatcc 2023

Uploaded by

oussamaneffati31

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

You are on page 1/ 570

Volume 98, 2023

AATCC MANUAL
OF INTERNATIONAL TEST
METHODS AND PROCEDURES

AATCC takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentioned in these test
methods and evaluation procedures. Users of the AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures are expressly
advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the risk of infringement of such rights, are entirely their
own responsibility.
The test methods in the AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures are subject to revision at any time by the
responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years and, if not revised, either reaffirmed or withdrawn. Your
comments are invited either for revision of current methods in this technical manual or for additional methods and should be
addressed to the AATCC Technical Center. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of the responsible
technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing, you should make your
views known to Erika Simmons, Technical Director, at the address shown below.
The AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures is copyrighted by AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
Park, NC 27709 USA. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of any method may be obtained by contacting AATCC at
the above address or tel: +1.919.549.3526; fax:+ 1.919.549.8933, e-mail: [email protected], or online at www.aatcc.org.
AATCC License Agreement: The AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures is copyrighted by the American
Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, 1 Davis Drive, Research Triangle Park, NC USA. All
rights reserved.
AATCC grants you a license as follows: The right to download an electronic file from this AATCC Manual of International Test
Methods and Procedures for storage on one computer for purposes of viewing, and/or printing one copy of any AATCC Test
Method for individual use for one year. Neither the electronic file nor the hard copy print may be reproduced in any way. In
addition, the electronic file may not be distributed elsewhere over computer networks or otherwise. The hard copy print may
only be distributed to other employees for their internal use within your organization.
This AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures is not for resale.

Go to Table of Contents

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, USA
Tel: +1.919.549.8141; Fax: +1.919.549.8933
www.aatcc.org
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

1
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
ISBN-13 Print: 978-1-942323-20-4
ISBN-13 PDF: 978-1-942323-21-1
Library of Congress Catalog Number: 85-647500

Copyright Permission: AATCC has contracted with Copyright Clearance Center Inc. (CCC)
such that permission requests to photocopy or otherwise reproduce copyrighted material owned
by AATCC for internal or personal use beyond the fair use provision of the Copyright Act
should be submitted to CCC, tel: +1.978.750.8400; fax: +1.978.750.4470; web site: www.copy-
right.com; e-mail: [email protected]. Copying for other than internal or personal use without
express permission of AATCC is prohibited. Address requests for customized bulk reprints to
AATCC Bulk Reprints, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215, tel:
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933.

2
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Navigation Tips
All bookmarks (on the left side of your screen) are links that will
take you directly to the list of test methods (move your mouse
over a bookmark and click once). All blue text in this document
is a direct link to the referenced text. To access a method or
document, simply point to it with your mouse and click once. To
return to the Table of Contents or a specific list, click on one of
the bookmarks on the left. To access the previously viewed page,
press the ALT Key + the Left Arrow.

Table of Contents
Preface....................................................................................... 4
List of AATCC Standards
Numerical (Current) .............................................................. 5
Numerical (Discontinued)..................................................... 8
Alphabetical (Current)........................................................... 11
Topical (Current) ................................................................... 14
Changes in 2022 Manual of International Test Methods
and Procedures ...................................................................... 18
Test Methods ............................................................................. 20
Laboratory Procedures ..............................................................463
Evaluation Procedures ..............................................................472
Monographs ..............................................................................507
Administrative Committees ......................................................548
Interest Groups..........................................................................551
Past Presidents (Living) ............................................................551
Research Committees ...............................................................552
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Reference Committees..............................................................561
AATCC Representatives to Other Organizations .....................562
Foundation Board of Directors .................................................562
Joint Report ECR/TCR .............................................................563
Reports of Research Committees..............................................566

3
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Preface

T standards in this volume of the Manual of Interna-

HE
tional Test Methods and Procedures were current as of
July 2022. New standards that have been added and other
organization and functioning of these research committees.
Prior to 1969, the Manual of International Test Methods
and Procedures also contained the Buyer’s Guide and the
important changes made since the last volume are summarized AATCC Membership Directory, now both available online.
on page 18. The general content of the Manual of International Test
AATCC standards are developed by research committees Methods and Procedures has continued unchanged since
through extensive investigations and interlaboratory compar- 1969.
isons, often covering several years of work. Simplicity, re- Major changes in layout of the Manual of International
producibility, applicability, cost of performing the test and Test Methods and Procedures were made in 1985 as follows:
the time required to perform the test are all important consid- (1) indexes were grouped at the front of the book; (2) test
erations in each development. methods were arranged in numerical order; (3) A Glossary of
Before a standard is published in the Manual of Inter- AATCC Standard Terminology was added and (4) the
national Test Methods and Procedures, it must be approved AATCC Style Guide for Writing Test Methods and Proce-
by the responsible research committee and the Technical dures was added.
Committee on Research (TCR). In 1989, evaluation procedures were listed immediately
During the first three years of publication, each new stan- after the test methods.
dard is reviewed annually, at which time, on recommenda-
In 2012, monographs were given number designations and
tion of the research committee and approval by TCR, it may
were included as a separate item in the numerical and topical
be reaffirmed, revised or withdrawn. After the first three
indexes for easy access.
years, each standard is reviewed at least once every five
years by the research committee, and following approval by In 2019, laboratory procedures were listed between test
TCR, may be reaffirmed, revised or withdrawn. The record methods and evaluation procedures. The glossary and style
of these actions is published in an activity history at the guide were numbered as monographs.
beginning or end of each standard. In 2020, the official designations and titles for all stan-
An important feature of all AATCC test methods is that dards were updated.
test results are numerically quantified. Methods do not in- In 2021, new, revised, reaffirmed, editorially revised, and
clude pass/fail criteria for materials or processes. AATCC editorially revised and reaffirmed methods were aligned to
policy prohibits endorsement of such specifications, require- the AATCC style guidelines. The official title was changed
ments, or acceptance criteria. These must be agreed upon by from Technical Manual of the American Association of Tex-
the interested parties. tile Chemists and Colorists to the American Association of
Each standard is designated by AATCC, then the letters Textile Chemists and Colorists Manual of International Test
TM, LP, EP, or M as appropriate, a number (no space), a Methods and Procedures.
dash, and the four-digit year of the latest revision. Additional
technical changes within the same year are signified by a
small “t” following the year. Reaffirmations—with no
RA99, TECHNICAL MANUAL EDITORIAL REVIEW COMMITTEE
changes—are signified by a year in parentheses following
the year of latest revision. Editorial changes are signified by Norma Keyes, Chair
a small “e” following the year. The designation should be Adi B. Chehna
quoted in full in referring to a standard, as for example, Karen Dickerman
TM90-2011(2016)e. Heather Elliot
AATCC M12-2020, Style Guide for Writing Test Methods Angela Massengill
and Procedures (page 521) is the defining document used by Shawn Meeks
research committees in writing these methods. M13-2017e, Erika Simmons
Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technol- Adam Varley
ogy Committees (page 528) is the defining document for the Diana Wyman

4 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Numerical List of Current AATCC Standards
Test Methods
Method Committee Title Page
TM6 RR1 Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis .................................................................................................... 20
TM8 RA38 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter ............................................................................................. 21
TM15 RA23 Colorfastness to Perspiration.............................................................................................................. 25
TM16.1 RA50 Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor......................................................................................................... 29
TM16.2 RA50 Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc ................................................................................................... 37
TM16.3 RA50 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc .................................................................................................... 47
TM17 RA63 Wetting Agents, Evaluation of ........................................................................................................... 61
TM20 RA24 Fiber Analysis: Qualitative................................................................................................................. 64
TM20A RA24 Fiber Analysis: Quantitative............................................................................................................... 84
TM22 RA63 Water Repellency: Spray .................................................................................................................... 95
TM23 RA33 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes..................................................................................................... 98
TM26 RR9 Ageing of Sulfur-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated.................................................................................. 101
TM27 RA63 Wetting Agents: Evaluation of Rewetting Agents ........................................................................... 103
TM30 RA31 Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of
Textile Materials........................................................................................................................... 104
TM35 RA63 Water Resistance: Rain......................................................................................................................110
TM42 RA63 Water Resistance: Impact Penetration...............................................................................................112
TM43 RA63 Wetting Agents for Mercerization.....................................................................................................114
TM61 RA60 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated ........................................................................................116
TM66 RA61 Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle................................................................... 121
TM70 RA63 Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption ...................................................................... 125
TM76 RA32 Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics .......................................................................................... 127
TM79 RA63 Absorbency of Textiles..................................................................................................................... 129
TM81 RA34 pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles .................................................................... 132
TM82 RA34 Fluidity of Dispersions of Cellulose from Bleached Cotton Cloth.................................................. 133
TM84 RA32 Electrical Resistance of Yarns .......................................................................................................... 136
TM86 RA43 Drycleaning: Durability of Applied Designs and Finishes .............................................................. 138
TM88B RA61 Seam Smoothness in Fabrics after Home Laundering..................................................................... 140
TM88C RA61 Crease Retention in Fabrics after Home Laundering....................................................................... 145
TM89 RA34 Mercerization in Cotton.................................................................................................................... 150
TM90 RA31 Antibacterial Activity of Textile Materials: Agar Plate ................................................................... 152
TM92 RR35 Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Single Sample ............................................................................ 155
TM93 RR29 Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: Accelerotor................................................................................... 157
TM94 RA45 Finishes in Textiles: Identification ................................................................................................... 160
TM96 RA42 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool... 166
TM97 RA34 Extractable Content of Textiles ........................................................................................................ 170
TM98 RA34 Alkali in Bleach Baths Containing Hydrogen Peroxide .................................................................. 173
TM100 RA31 Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of............................................................ 175
TM101 RA34 Colorfastness to Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide ...................................................................... 177
TM102 RA34 Determination of Hydrogen Peroxide by Potassium Permanganate Titration................................. 180
TM103 RR41 Bacterial Alpha-Amylase Enzymes used in Desizing ..................................................................... 182
TM104 RA23 Colorfastness to Water Spotting ....................................................................................................... 184
TM106 RA23 Colorfastness to Water: Sea.............................................................................................................. 185
TM107 RA23 Colorfastness to Water...................................................................................................................... 187
TM109 RA33 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities ................................................ 191
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

TM110 RA36 Whiteness of Textiles ....................................................................................................................... 193

TM111 RA50 Weather Resistance of Textiles: Exposure to Daylight and Weather............................................... 195
TM112 RA45 Formaldehyde Release from Fabric: Sealed Jar............................................................................... 204
TM114 RR35 Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Multiple Sample ........................................................................ 208
TM115 RA32 Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal .......................................................................... 210
TM116 RA38 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter ................................................................. 214

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 5

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Method Committee Title Page
TM117 RR54 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) ............................................................................ 218
TM118 RA56 Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance ........................................................................................ 220
TM119 RR29 Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire .................................................................. 223
TM120 RR29 Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Emery ........................................................................... 226
TM121 RA57 Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating........................................................................................................... 228
TM122 RA57 Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling ........................................................................................................ 230
TM124 RA61 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering .......................................................... 232
TM125 RA50 Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light ........................................................................................... 237
TM127 RA63 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure........................................................................................... 239
TM128 RA61 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance ...................................................................................... 242
TM129 RA33 Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under High Humidities................................................ 244
TM130 RA56 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release ...................................................................................................... 246
TM131 RR53 Colorfastness to Steam Pleating....................................................................................................... 250
TM132 RA43 Colorfastness to Drycleaning ........................................................................................................... 253
TM133 RR54 Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing................................................................................................. 256
TM134 RA57 Electrostatic Propensity of Carpets .................................................................................................. 259
TM135 RA42 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering............................................................... 263
TM137 RA57 Rug Back Staining on Vinyl Tile...................................................................................................... 267
TM138 RA57 Cleaning: Washing of Textile Floor Coverings................................................................................ 269
TM140 RA87 Dye and Pigment Migration in a Pad-Dry Process .......................................................................... 271
TM141 RA87 Compatibility of Basic Dyes for Acrylic Fibers .............................................................................. 273
TM142 RR81 Appearance of Flocked Fabrics after Home Laundering and/or Coin-Op Drycleaning ................. 275
TM143 RA61 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products after Home Laundering.......................... 278
TM144 RA34 Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Total ........................................................................................... 285
TM146 RA87 Dispersibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter............................................................................................. 287
TM147 RA31 Antibacterial Activity of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak............................................................. 290
TM148 RA36 Light Blocking Effect of Textiles and Related Materials: Photodetector ........................................ 292
TM149 RR90 Chelation Value of Aminopolycarboxylic Acids and Their Salts: Calcium Oxalate ...................... 296
TM150 RA42 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering........................................................... 298
TM154 RA87 Thermal Fixation Properties of Disperse Dyes ................................................................................ 302
TM157 RA92 Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting: Perchloroethylene..................................................................... 304
TM158 RA43 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine .......................................... 305
TM159 RA87 Transfer of Acid and Premetallized Acid Dyes on Nylon ............................................................... 308
TM161 RR90 Color Change of Disperse Dyes Caused by Metals, with and without Chelating Agent ................ 310
TM162 RA23 Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool ........................................................................................ 314
TM163 RA92 Colorfastness to Storage: Dye Transfer............................................................................................ 316
TM164 RA33 Colorfastness to Oxides of Nitrogen in the Atmosphere under High Humidities ........................... 318
TM165 RA57 Colorfastness to Crocking: Textile Floor Coverings—Crockmeter ................................................ 320
TM167 RA87 Foaming Propensity of Disperse Dyes............................................................................................. 323
TM168 RR90 Chelation Value of Polyaminopolycarboxylic Acids and Their Salts: Copper PAN....................... 325
TM169 RA50 Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp Exposure ................................................................. 327
TM170 RA87 Dusting Propensity of Powder Dyes ................................................................................................ 333
TM171 RA57 Carpets: Cleaning of; Hot Water Extraction .................................................................................... 335
TM172 RA60 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering......................................... 337
TM174 RA31 Antimicrobial Activity Assessment of New Carpets ....................................................................... 340
TM175 RA57 Stain Resistance: Pile Floor Coverings ............................................................................................ 345
TM176 RA87 Speckiness of Colorant Dispersions................................................................................................. 347
TM179 RA42 Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering........................................................................... 349
TM182 RA36 Relative Color Strength of Dyes in Solution.................................................................................... 354
TM183 RA106 Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics........ 357
TM184 RA87 Dusting Behavior of Dyes ................................................................................................................ 361
TM185 RR90 Chelating Agents: Percent Content in Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach Baths;
Copper PAN Indicator .................................................................................................................. 365
TM186 RA50 Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure .................................................................. 367
TM187 RA42 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics: Accelerated ................................................................................ 372
TM188 RA60 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering ............................................. 375

6 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 7

Evaluation Procedures
Procedure Committee Title
EP1 RA36 Gray Scale for Color Change ........................................................................................................... 472
EP2 RA36 Gray Scale for Staining .................................................................................................................... 474
EP5 RA89 Fabric Hand ...................................................................................................................................... 477
EP6 RA36 Instrumental Color Measurement..................................................................................................... 480
EP7 RA36 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen ............................................ 487
EP8 RA36 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale................................................................................ 489
EP9 RA36 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles ......................................................................... 491
EP10 RA59 Multifiber Adjacent Fabrics ............................................................................................................. 494
EP11 RA36 UV Energy of Optically Brightened Textiles: Spectrophotometer Calibration............................... 497
EP12 RA36 Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Staining .............................................................................. 499
EP13 RA111 Electrical Resistance of Electronically-Integrated Textiles ............................................................. 500
EP14 RA36 AATCC Evaluation Procedure for Small Color Differences ........................................................... 503

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Monographs
Monograph Committee Title
M1 RA88 AATCC Standard Reference Detergents and Laundry Detergents in General ................................ 507
M3 RA88 High Efficiency Washers in North America .................................................................................... 509
M4 RA88 Overview of Liquid Fabric Softeners Used in Home Laundering....................................................511
M9 RA102 A Summary of ASTM Methods for Interlaboratory Testing ........................................................... 512
M10 RA99 Barré: Visual Assessment Descriptive Terms and Terminology...................................................... 514
M11 RA99 Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology .................................................................................... 515
M12 RA99 AATCC Style Guide for Writing Test Methods and Procedures ..................................................... 525
M13 C2 Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees................................... 532
M14 RA113 Guidance and Considerations for General Purpose Textile Face Coverings: Adult........................ 539

Numerical List of Discontinued AATCC Standards

Test Methods
Method Title
TM1-1957 Colorfastness to Washing, Mill Washing and Scouring: Wool Textiles.
TM2-1989 Colorfastness to Fulling.
TM3-1989 Colorfastness to Bleaching with Chlorine.
TM4-1957 Colorfastness to Washing, Mill: Silk Textiles.
TM5-1962 Colorfastness to Dry and Wet Heat. Superseded by AATCC TM133.
TM7-1989 Colorfastness to Degumming.
TM9-1989 Colorfastness to Stoving.
TM10-1944 Colorfastness to Commercial Laundering and to Domestic Washing. Superseded by AATCC TM36.
TM11-1989 Colorfastness to Carbonizing.
TM12-1931 Colorfastness to Sea Water. Superseded by AATCC TM63.
TM13-1957 Colorfastness to Peroxide Bleaching with Peroxide: Silk. Superseded by AATCC TM101.
TM14-1953 Dimensional Changes in Cotton and Linen Textiles. Superseded by AATCC TM91.
TM16-2004 Colorfastness to Light. Superseded by AATCC TM16.1, AATCC TM16.2 and AATCC TM16.3.

8 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

9
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Method Title
TM77-1977 Scourability of Spinning Lubricant.
TM78-1989 Ash Content of Bleached Cellulosic Textiles.
TM80-1954 Determining the Noncotton Content of Bleached Woven Cotton Cloth. Superseded by AATCC TM97.
TM83-1974 Colorfastness to Light and Washing: Alternate Exposure.
TM85-1968 Colorfastness to Drycleaning. Superseded by AATCC TM132.
TM87-1965 Colorfastness to Washing, Industrial Laundering: Accelerated.
TM88-1961 Appearance of Wash and Wear Fabrics after Home Laundering. Superseded by AATCC TM88A.
TM88A-1964 Appearance of Fabrics in Wash and Wear Items after Home Laundering. Superseded by AATCC TM124.
TM90-1982 Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Detection of: Agar Plate Method. Superseded by
Reactivated/Revised AATCC TM90-2016.
TM91-1958 Dimensional Changes in Woven Textiles (Excluding Wool). Superseded by AATCC TM96.
TM95-1959 Dimensional Restorability of Woven Textiles after Laundering. Superseded by AATCC TM96.
TM99-2004 Dimensional Changes of Woven or Knitted Wool Textiles: Relaxation, Consolidation and Felting.
TM105-1975 Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool. Superseded by AATCC TM162.
TM108-1963 Dimensional Changes in Drycleaning.
TM111A-1990 Weather Resistance: Sunshine Arc Lamp Exposure with Wetting. Superseded by AATCC TM111.
TM111B-1990 Weather Resistance: Exposure to Natural Light and Weather. Superseded by AATCC TM111.
TM111C-1990 Weather Resistance: Sunshine Arc Lamp Exposure without Wetting. Superseded by AATCC TM111.
TM111D-1990 Weather Resistance: Exposure to Natural Light and Weather through Glass. Superseded by AATCC TM111.
TM113-1978 Formaldehyde Odor in Resin Treated Fabric, Determination of: Steam Method.
TM123-2000 Carpet Soiling: Accelerated Soiling Method.
TM126-1991 Colorfastness to Water (High Humidity) and Light: Alternate Exposure.
TM136-2013 Bond Strength of Bonded and Laminated Fabrics
TM139-2005 Colorfastness to Light: Detection of Photochromism.
TM145-1985 Color Measurement of the Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards: Instrumental.
TM148-1989 Light Blocking Effect of Curtain Materials. Superseded by Reactivated/Revised AATCC TM148-2014
with new title.
TM151-2003 Soil Redeposition: Launder-Ometer Method.
TM152-1990 Soil Redeposition, Resistance to: Terg-O-Tometer Method.
TM153-1985 Color Measurement of Textiles: Instrumental. Superseded by AATCC EP6.
TM155-1991 Transfer of Disperse Dyes on Polyester.
TM156-1991 Transfer of Basic Dyes on Acrylics.
TM160-1992 Dimensional Restoration of Knitted and Woven Fabrics after Laundering.
TM166-1998 Dispersion Stability of Disperse Dyes at High Temperature.
TM173-2009 Test Method for Calculation of Small Color Differences for Acceptability
TM177-2000 Colorfastness to Light at Elevated Temperature and Humidity: Xenon Lamp Apparatus.
TM178-2004 Barré: Visual Assessment and Grading. Superseded by M10.
TM180-1997 Colorfastness to Light at High Temperatures: Daylight Temperature Controlled Apparatus.
TM181-2005 Colorfastness to Light at High Temperatures: Daylight Temperature and Humidity Controlled Apparatus.

Evaluation Procedures
Procedure Title
EP3-1996 AATCC 5-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
EP4-2011 Standard Depth Scales for Depth Determination.

Monographs
Monograph Title
M2-2005 2003 Standard AATCC Standard Reference Liquid Laundry Detergent. Superseded by M1.
M5-2007 Standardization of Hand Laundering for Fabrics and Apparel. Superseded by LP2.
M6-2016 Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions. Superseded by LP1.
M7-1991 Standard Laboratory Practice for Home Laundering Fabrics Prior to Flammability Testing
to Differentiate Between Durable and Non-Durable Finishes
M8-1992 Nomenclature for Subjective Rating Processes.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

10 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire .................................................................................................... TM119 223

Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)............................................................................................................... TM117 218
Heat: Hot Pressing ................................................................................................................................... TM133 256
Home Laundering with Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent: Accelerated ........................................... TM190 381
Laundering: Accelerated.......................................................................................................................... TM61 116
Light: Carbon-Arc.................................................................................................................................... TM16.2 37
Light: Outdoor ......................................................................................................................................... TM16.1 29
Light: Xenon-Arc..................................................................................................................................... TM16.3 47
Oxides of Nitrogen in the Atmosphere under High Humidities.............................................................. TM164 318
Ozone in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities................................................................................... TM109 191
Ozone in the Atmosphere under High Humidities .................................................................................. TM129 244

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 11

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Title Number Page
Colorfastness to: (Continued)
Perspiration .............................................................................................................................................. TM15 25
Perspiration and Light.............................................................................................................................. TM125 237
Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering ........................................................................... TM172 337
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering ................................................................................ TM188 375
Sodium Hypochlorite of a Textile Floor Covering.................................................................................. TM196 405
Solvent Spotting: Perchloroethylene ....................................................................................................... TM157 304
Steam Pleating ......................................................................................................................................... TM131 250
Storage: Dye Transfer .............................................................................................................................. TM163 316
Water ........................................................................................................................................................ TM107 187
Water: Chlorinated Pool........................................................................................................................... TM162 314
Water: Sea ................................................................................................................................................ TM106 185
Water Spotting ......................................................................................................................................... TM104 184
Compatibility of Basic Dyes for Acrylic Fibers ......................................................................................... TM141 273
Crease Retention in Fabrics after Home Laundering.................................................................................. TM88C 145
Determination of Hydrogen Peroxide by Potassium Titration.................................................................... TM102 180
Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering.......................................................................... TM135 263
Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering...................................................................... TM150 298
Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool.............. TM96 166
Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine ..................................................... TM158 305
Dimensional Changes of Fabrics: Accelerated ........................................................................................... TM187 372
Dispersibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter........................................................................................................ TM146 287
Drycleaning: Durability of Applied Designs and Finishes ......................................................................... TM86 138
Drying Rate of Fabrics: Heated Plate.......................................................................................................... TM201 420
Drying Rate of Textiles at their Absorbent Capacity: Air Flow ................................................................. TM200 417
Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer .............................................................................................. TM199 414
Dusting Behavior of Dyes ........................................................................................................................... TM184 361
Dusting Propensity of Powder Dyes ........................................................................................................... TM170 333
Dye and Pigment Migration in a Pad-Dry Process ..................................................................................... TM140 271
Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics ..................................................................................................... TM76 127
Electrical Resistance Before and After Various Exposure Conditions ....................................................... TM210 447
Electrical Resistance of Electronically-Integrated Textiles ........................................................................ EP13 500
Electrical Resistance of Yarns ..................................................................................................................... TM84 136
Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal Test.............................................................................. TM115 211
Electrostatic Propensity of Carpets ............................................................................................................. TM134 259
Extractable Content of Textiles ................................................................................................................... TM97 170
Fabric Hand ................................................................................................................................................. EP5 477
Fiber Analysis: Qualitative.......................................................................................................................... TM20 64
Fiber Analysis: Quantitative........................................................................................................................ TM20A 84
Fiber Fragment Release During Home Laundering.................................................................................... TM212 456
Finishes in Textiles: Identification .............................................................................................................. TM94 160
Fluidity of Dispersions of Cellulose from Bleached Cotton Cloth............................................................. TM82 133
Fluorine Content of Carpet Fibers............................................................................................................... TM189 378
Foaming Propensity of Disperse Dyes ........................................................................................................ TM167 323
Formaldehyde Release from Fabric: Sealed Jar.......................................................................................... TM112 204
Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde: Water Extraction.............................................................................. TM206 435
Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology ............................................................................................... M11 515
Guidance and Considerations for General Purpose Textile Face Coverings: Adult................................... M14 539
Gray Scale for Color Change ...................................................................................................................... EP1 472
Gray Scale for Staining ............................................................................................................................... EP2 474
High Efficiency Washers in North America................................................................................................ M3 509
Home Laundering: Machine Washing......................................................................................................... LP1 463
Home Laundering: Hand Washing .............................................................................................................. LP2 468
Horizontal Wicking of Textiles ................................................................................................................... TM198 411
Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen ....................................................... EP7 487
Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Staining ......................................................................................... EP12 499
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,```

12 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Title Number Page
Instrumental Color Measurement................................................................................................................ EP6 480
Light Blocking Effect of Textiles and Related Materials: Photodetector ................................................... TM148 292
Light Blocking Effect of Textiles: Spectrophotometric .............................................................................. TM203 426
Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics ...................................................................... TM195 400
Mercerization in Cotton............................................................................................................................... TM89 150
Multifiber Adjacent Fabrics ........................................................................................................................ EP10 494
Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test............................................................................................ TM118 220
Overview of Liquid Fabric Softeners Used in Home Laundering.............................................................. M4 511
pH and Total Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Combined........................................................................ TM209 445
pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles................................................................................ TM81 132
Reduction of Bacterial Odor on Antibacterial Treated Textiles.................................................................. TM211 453
Relative Color Strength of Dyes in Solutions ............................................................................................. TM182 354
Relative Hand Value of Textiles: Instrumental ........................................................................................... TM202 423
Rug Back Staining on Vinyl Tile................................................................................................................. TM137 267
Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees.............................................. M13 532
Seam Smoothness in Fabrics after Home Laundering ................................................................................ TM88B 140
Seam Twist in Garments Before and After Home Laundering................................................................... TM207 438
Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering ...................................................................................... TM179 349
Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Home Laundering ..................................................................... TM124 232
Soil Release: Oily Stain Release ................................................................................................................. TM130 246
Speckiness of Colorant Dispersions............................................................................................................ TM176 347
Stain Resistance: Pile Floor Coverings ....................................................................................................... TM175 345
Summary of ASTM Methods for Interlaboratory Testing .......................................................................... M9 512
Thermal Fixation Properties of Disperse Dyes ........................................................................................... TM154 302
Transfer of Acid and Premetallized Acid Dyes on Nylon .......................................................................... TM159 308
Transfer of Free Permethrin from Textile Surfaces..................................................................................... LP3 470
Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics ................... TM183 357
UV Energy of Optically Brightened Textiles: Spectrophotometer Calibration .......................................... EP11 497
Vertical Wicking of Textiles ........................................................................................................................ TM197 407
Vertical Wicking Rate of Textiles: to Specified Times ............................................................................... TM213 460
Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles .................................................................................... EP9 491
Water Repellency:
Spray ........................................................................................................................................................ TM22 95
Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption............................................................................................................. TM70 125
Water Resistance:
Hydrostatic Pressure ................................................................................................................................ TM127 239
Hydrostatic Pressure Using a Restraint ................................................................................................... TM208 443
Impact Penetration ................................................................................................................................... TM42 112
Rain .......................................................................................................................................................... TM35 110
Water Vapor Transmission of Textiles......................................................................................................... TM204 430
Weather Resistance of Textiles:
Exposure to Daylight and Weather .......................................................................................................... TM111 195
Xenon Lamp Exposure ............................................................................................................................ TM169 327
Sunshine-Arc Lamp Exposure with and without Wetting....................................................................... TM192 387
Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure ............................................................................. TM186 367
Wetting Agents, Evaluation of .................................................................................................................... TM17 61
Wetting Agents: Evaluation of Rewetting Agents ...................................................................................... TM27 103
Wetting Agents for Mercerization............................................................................................................... TM43 114
Whiteness of Textiles .................................................................................................................................. TM110 193
Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance ................................................................................................. TM128 242
Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle.............................................................................. TM66 121

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 13

CARPET TESTING
Carpet: Liquid Penetration by Spillage ....................................................................................................... TM205 433
Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling ................................................................................................................... TM122 230
Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating...................................................................................................................... TM121 228
Carpets: Cleaning of; Hot Water Extraction ............................................................................................... TM171 335
Electrostatic Propensity of Carpets ............................................................................................................. TM134 259
Fluorine Content of Carpet Fibers............................................................................................................... TM189 378
Rug Back Staining on Vinyl Tile................................................................................................................. TM137 267
Stain Resistance: Pile Floor Coverings ....................................................................................................... TM175 345

COLORFASTNESS
Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis ............................................................................................................. TM6 20
Colorfastness to Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide ................................................................................. TM101 177
Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes .............................................................................................................. TM23 98
Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method ........................................................................................ TM8 21
Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method ............................................................... TM116 215
Colorfastness to Crocking: Textile Floor Coverings— Crockmeter Method ............................................. TM165 320
Colorfastness to Drycleaning ...................................................................................................................... TM132 253
Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Emery ...................................................................................... TM120 226
Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire ............................................................................. TM119 223
Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing) ....................................................................................... TM117 218
Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing............................................................................................................ TM133 256
Colorfastness to Home Laundering with Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent: Accelerated.................... TM190 381
Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated .................................................................................................. TM61 116
Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc ............................................................................................................ TM16.2 37
Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor .................................................................................................................. TM16.1 29
Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc ............................................................................................................. TM16.3 47
Colorfastness to Oxides of Nitrogen in the Atmosphere under High Humidities ...................................... TM164 318
Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under High Humidities........................................................... TM129 244
Colorfastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities ........................................................... TM109 192
Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light ...................................................................................................... TM125 237
Colorfastness to Perspiration....................................................................................................................... TM15 25
Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering.................................................... TM172 337
Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering......................................................... TM188 375
Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite of a Textile Floor Covering .......................................................... TM196 405
Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting: Perchloroethylene................................................................................ TM157 304
Colorfastness to Steam Pleating .................................................................................................................. TM131 250
Colorfastness to Storage: Dye Transfer....................................................................................................... TM163 316
Colorfastness to Water................................................................................................................................. TM107 187
Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool ................................................................................................... TM162 314
Colorfastness to Water: Sea......................................................................................................................... TM106 185
Colorfastness to Water Spotting .................................................................................................................. TM104 184

14 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Title Number Page
DYEING PROPERTIES
Color Change of Disperse Dyes Caused by Metals, with and without Chelating Agent ........................... TM161 310
Compatibility of Basic Dyes for Acrylic Fibers ......................................................................................... TM141 273
Dispersibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter........................................................................................................ TM146 287
Dusting Behavior of Dyes ........................................................................................................................... TM184 361
Dusting Propensity of Powder Dyes ........................................................................................................... TM170 333
Dye and Pigment Migration in a Pad-Dry Process ..................................................................................... TM140 271
Foaming Propensity of Disperse Dyes ........................................................................................................ TM167 323
Relative Color Strength of Dyes in Solutions ............................................................................................. TM182 354
Speckiness of Colorant Dispersions............................................................................................................ TM176 347
Thermal Fixation Properties of Disperse Dyes ........................................................................................... TM154 302
Transfer of Acid and Premetallized Acid Dyes on Nylon .......................................................................... TM159 308

EVALUATION PROCEDURES
Chromatic Transference Scale, 9-Step ........................................................................................................ EP8 485
Electrical Resistance of Electronically-Integrated Textiles ........................................................................ EP13 496
Fabric Hand ................................................................................................................................................. EP5 473
Gray Scale for Color Change ...................................................................................................................... EP1 468
Gray Scale for Staining ............................................................................................................................... EP2 470
Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen ....................................................... EP7 483
Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Staining ......................................................................................... EP12 495
Instrumental Color Measurement................................................................................................................ EP6 476
Multifiber Adjacent Fabrics ........................................................................................................................ EP10 490
Small Color Differences .............................................................................................................................. EP14 503
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

UV Energy of Optically Brightened Textiles: Spectrophotometer Calibration .......................................... EP11 493

Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles .................................................................................... EP9 487

IDENTIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

Alkali in Bleach Baths Containing Hydrogen Peroxide ............................................................................. TM98 173
Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Total....................................................................................................... TM144 285
Chelation Value of Polyaminopolycarboxylic Acids and Their Salts: Copper PAN.................................. TM168 325
Chelation Value of Aminopolycarboxylic Acids and Their Salts: Calcium Oxalate.................................. TM149 296
Chelating Agents: Percent Content in Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach Baths; Copper PAN Indicator............ TM185 365
Extractable Content of Textiles ................................................................................................................... TM97 170
Fiber Analysis: Qualitative.......................................................................................................................... TM20 64
Fiber Analysis: Quantitative........................................................................................................................ TM20A 84
Finishes in Textiles: Identification .............................................................................................................. TM94 160
Fluidity of Dispersions of Cellulose from Bleached Cotton Cloth............................................................. TM82 133
Formaldehyde Release from Fabric: Sealed Jar.......................................................................................... TM112 204
Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde: Water Extraction.............................................................................. TM206 435
Determination of Hydrogen Peroxide by Potassium Permanganate Titration............................................ TM102 180
Light Blocking Effect of Textiles and Related Materials: Photodetector ................................................... TM148 292
Light Blocking Effect of Textiles: Spectrophotometric .............................................................................. TM203 426
Mercerization in Cotton............................................................................................................................... TM89 150
pH and Total Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Combined........................................................................ TM209 445
pH of the Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles ........................................................................................ TM81 132
Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics ................... TM183 357
Whiteness of Textiles .................................................................................................................................. TM110 193

LABORATORY PROCEDURES
Home Laundering: Machine Washing......................................................................................................... LP1 463
Home Laundering: Hand Washing .............................................................................................................. LP2 468
Transfer of Free Permethrin from Textile Surfaces..................................................................................... LP3 470

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 15

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT PROPERTIES

Drying Rate of Fabrics: Heated Plate.......................................................................................................... TM201 420
Drying Rate of Textiles at their Absorbent Capacity: Air Flow ................................................................. TM200 417
Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer .............................................................................................. TM199 414
Horizontal Wicking of Textiles ................................................................................................................... TM198 411
Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics ...................................................................... TM195 400
Vertical Wicking of Textiles ........................................................................................................................ TM197 407
Vertical Wicking Rate of Textiles: to Specified Times ............................................................................... TM213 460
Water Vapor Transmission of Textiles......................................................................................................... TM204 430

MONOGRAPHS
AATCC Standard Reference Detergents and Laundry Detergents in General ........................................... M1 503
AATCC Style Guide for Writing Test Methods and Procedures ................................................................ M12 521
Barré: Visual Assessment Descriptive Terms and Terminology................................................................. M10 510
Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology ............................................................................................... M11 511
Guidance and Considerations for General Purpose Textile Face Coverings: Adult................................... M14 535
High Efficiency Washers in North America................................................................................................ M3 505
Overview of Liquid Fabric Softeners Used in Home Laundering.............................................................. M4 507
Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees.............................................. M13 528
Summary of ASTM Methods for Interlaboratory Testing .......................................................................... M9 508

OTHER PROPERTIES
Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: Accelerotor.............................................................................................. TM93 157
Ageing of Sulfur-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated............................................................................................. TM26 101
Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test...................................................... TM193 395
Electrical Resistance Before and After Various Exposure Conditions ....................................................... TM210 447
Electrical Resistance of Electronically-Integrated Textiles ........................................................................ EP13 496
Electrical Resistance of Yarns ..................................................................................................................... TM84 136
Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics ..................................................................................................... TM76 127
Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal Test.............................................................................. TM115 211
Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test............................................................................................ TM118 220
Relative Hand Value of Textiles: Instrumental ........................................................................................... TM202 423
Soil Release: Oily Stain Release ................................................................................................................. TM130 246
Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance ................................................................................................. TM128 242
Wrinkle Recovery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle.............................................................................. TM66 121
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,

16 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

WET PROCESSING PROPERTIES

Acid Cellulase Enzymes, Effect of: Top Loading Washer.......................................................................... TM191 384
Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Multiple Sample.................................................................................... TM114 208
Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Single Sample ....................................................................................... TM92 155
Wetting Agents, Evaluation of .................................................................................................................... TM17 61
Wetting Agents: Evaluation of Rewetting Agents ...................................................................................... TM27 103
Wetting Agents for Mercerization............................................................................................................... TM43 114

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 17

T he following AATCC standards have been developed,

revised, or reaffirmed since publication of the 2022
volume of the Manual of International Test Methods and Proce-
AATCC TM98-2022, Test Method for Alkali in Bleach
Baths Containing Hydrogen Peroxide. Revised in 2022 to
align to the AATCC Style Guide.
dures. In accordance with AATCC M13, Rules of Procedure for
AATCC TM102-2022, Test Method for Determination of
AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees, all technical
Hydrogen Peroxide by Potassium Permanganate Titra-
changes are unanimously approved by the responsible research
tion. Revised in 2022 to align to AATCC Style Guide.
committee and the Technical Committee on Research (TCR)
before publication. AATCC TM107-2022, Test Method for Colorfastness to
Water. Revised in 2022 for clarity and align with prescribed
AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e, Test Method for Colorfast- AATCC style guide.
ness to Crocking: Crockmeter. Reaffirmed and editorially
revised to add History section in 2022. AATCC TM111-2022, Test Method for Weather Resis-
tance of Textiles: Exposure to Daylight and Weather.
AATCC TM15-2021e, Test Method for Colorfastness to Revised in 2022 for clarity and to add the History section.
Perspiration. Editorially revised in 2022 to correct a typo
and update conditioning tolerances. AATCC TM116-2018e(2022)e, Test Method for Color-
fastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter. Reaf-
AATCC TM16.1-2022, Test Method for Colorfastness to firmed and editorially revised in 2022 to add the History
Light: Outdoor. Revised in 2022 for clarity and to add the section.
History section.
AATCC TM128-2017e2, Test Method for Wrinkle
AATCC TM16.2-2022, Test Method for Colorfastness to Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance. Editorially revised
Light: Carbon-Arc. Revised and added History section in 2022 to add History section.
2022.
AATCC TM144-2022, Test Method for Alkali in Wet
AATCC TM17-1999e2(2018)e2, Test Method for Wetting Processed Textiles: Total. Revised in 2022 to align to the
Agents, Evaluation of. Editorially revised in 2022 to note AATCC style guide.
jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114. AATCC TM146-2011(2022)e, Test Method for Dispers-
AATCC TM27-1952e8(2018)e2, Test Method for Wetting ibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter. Reaffirmed and editorially
Agents: Evaluation of Rewetting Agents. Editorially revised to add the History section.
revised in 2022 to note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Com- AATCC TM157-2022, Test Method for Colorfastness to
mittee RA114. Solvent Spotting. Revised in 2022 to provide replacement
AATCC TM43-1952e6(2018)e2, Test Method for Wetting chemistries for perchloroethylene, and title change.
Agents for Mercerization. Editorially revised in 2022 to AATCC TM174-2022, Test Method for Antimicrobial
note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114. Activity of New Carpets. Revised in 2022 to clarify and
align with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
AATCC TM66-2017e2, Test Method for Wrinkle Recov-
ery of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle. Editorially revised AATCC TM183(2020)e, Test Method for Transmittance
in 2022 to add History section. or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted Ultraviolet Radia-
tion through Fabrics. Editorially revised in 2022 to remove
AATCC TM79-2010e2(2018)e2, Test Method for Absor- the UPF compilation as it has been discontinued.
bency of Textiles. Editorially revised in 2022 to note juris-
diction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114. AATCC TM186-2022, Test Method for Weather Resis-
tance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure. Revised in 2022
AATCC TM81-2022, Test Method for pH of the Water- to align with the style guidelines.
Extract from Wet Processed Textiles. Revised in 2022 to
align to the AATCC Style Guide. AATCC TM192-2022, Test Method for Weather Resis-
tance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc Lamp Exposure With
AATCC TM82-2022, Test Method for Fluidity of Disper- and Without Wetting. Revised in 2022 for clarity and to
sions of Cellulose from Bleached Cotton Cloth. Revised in add the History section.
2022 to align with the AATCC Style Guide.
AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4, Test Method for Liquid
AATCC TM90-2022, Test Method for Antibacterial Moisture Management Properties of Textile Fabrics. Edi-
Activity of Textile Materials: Agar Plate. Revised in 2022 torially revised in 2022 to note jurisdiction transfer to
to clarify and align with prescribed AATCC style guidelines. AATCC Committee RA114.

18 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2022
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM197-2022, Test Method for Vertical Wicking AATCC TM201-2012(2014)e3, Test Method for Drying
Rate of Textiles: to Specified Distances. Revised in 2022 Rate of Fabrics: Heated Plate. Editorially revised in
(with title change) to remove wicking rate to specified times 2022 to note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee
(now TM213) and define other parameters. Jurisdiction RA114.
transferred to RA114.
AATCC TM204-2019e, Test Method for Water Vapor
AATCC TM198-2011e3(2020)e, Test Method for Hori- Transmission of Textiles. Editorially revised in 2022 to note
zontal Wicking of Textiles. Editorially revised in 2022 to jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114.
note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114.
AATCC TM209-2022, Test Method for pH and Total
AATCC TM199-2013e(2018)e2, Test Method for Drying Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Combined. Revised in
Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer. Editorially revised in 2022 to align to the AATCC Style Guide, and to correctly
2022 to note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC Committee RA114. reference in Section 7.5.

AATCC TM200-2017e2, Test Method for Drying Rate of AATCC TM213-2022, Test Method for Vertical Wicking
Textiles at their Absorbent Capacity: Air Flow. Editori- Rate of Textiles: to Specified Times. Developed in 2022
ally revised in 2022 to note jurisdiction transfer to AATCC (previously part of AATCC TM197), by AATCC Committee
Committee RA114. RA114.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2022 19

Test Method for Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis

1. Purpose and Scope 6.5 Acetic acid (CH3COOH), 56%. atmosphere of 65 ± 5% RH and a temper-
6.6 Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH), ature of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F), evaluate the
1.1 Test specimens are evaluated for anhydrous ammonia 28% (NH3). change in color in each test specimen by
change in color when spot tested with 6.7 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), anhy- comparison with the Gray Scale for Color
acid, or steeped in alkali fumes, in a labo- drous, technical. Change (AATCC EP1), or using AATCC
ratory setting. These test methods are ap- 6.8 Calcium hydroxide [Ca(OH)2], EP7, Instrumental Assessment of the
plicable to textiles made from all fibers in freshly prepared paste. Change in Color of a Test Specimen.
the form of yarns or fabrics, whether 6.9 Equipment and environment for Record the numerical rating that corre-
dyed, printed or otherwise colored. evaluating color change. sponds to the appropriate one on the Gray
6.9.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray Scale.
2. Principle
Scale for Color Change (see 12.1). Refer
2.1 Test specimens are steeped in, or to AATCC EP1 for additional materials 10. Report
and use of gray scale.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
spotted with, the required solutions by 10.1 Describe or identify the sample
means of simple laboratory equipment, 6.9.2 For instrumental evaluation, use a tested.
allowed to dry at room temperature, then spectrophotometer as specified in AATCC
10.2 Report that the sample was tested
examined for change in color. EP7.
using AATCC TM6-2021.
7. Specimens 10.3 Report the testing conditions:
3. Referenced Documents
10.3.1 Acid and alkali solutions used.
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- 7.1 Specimens of any convenient size 10.3.2 Method of application.
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change and shape may be used. 10.3.3 Evaluation procedure for color
(see 12.1). change (AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7).
3.2 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- 8. Procedure 10.4 Report the test results:
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the 8.1 Acid Tests. 10.4.1 Color change for each reagent
Change in color of a Test Specimen (see 8.1.1 Prepare hydrochloric solution by and application method.
12.1). adding 100 mL of 35% acid to a volumet- 10.5 Describe any modification(s) of
3.3 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for ric flask half-filled with distilled water the published method.
Sampling Design. and then dilute to the 1-L mark. Spot a
test specimen with the solution of hydro- 11. Precision and Bias
4. Terminology chloric acid at 21°C (70°F), and then dry 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of the specimen at room temperature with- method has not been established. Until a
a material to change in any of its color out rinsing. precision statement is generated for this
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 8.1.2 Spot a test specimen with acetic test method, use standard statistical tech-
rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a acid (56%) and dry it at room tempera- niques in making any comparisons of test
result of the exposure of the material to ture without rinsing. results for either within-laboratory or
any environment that might be encoun- 8.1.3 An eyedropper may be used to between-laboratory averages.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- apply the acid spots. If liquid sits on sam- 11.2 Bias. The colorfastness to acids
age or use of the material. ple surface, use a stirring rod to gently and alkalis can be defined only in terms
rub in. of a test method. There is no independent
5. Safety Precautions 8.2 Alkali Tests. method for determining the true value.
8.2.1 Soak a test specimen in ammo- As a means of estimating this property,
5.1 The safety precautions specified in nium hydroxide (28% anhydrous ammo-
the method/procedure are ancillary to the the method has no known bias.
nia) at 21°C (70°F) for 2 min and dry it at
testing procedures and are not intended to room temperature without rinsing. 12. Note
be all inclusive. 8.2.2 Soak a test specimen in a 10%
5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- solution of sodium carbonate at 21°C 12.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
erence applicable safety data sheets, use (70°F) for 2 min and dry it at room tem- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- perature without rinsing. USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
propriate personal protective equipment www.aatcc.org.
8.2.3 Suspend a test specimen over a
in handling materials in this standard. 7.6-cm (3-in.) evaporating dish contain-
5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- 13. History
ing 10 mL ammonium hydroxide (28%
ers for specific details such as equipment anhydrous ammonia) for 24 h in a 4-L 13.1 Revised in 2021 to clarify and align
operating instructions and other recom- bell jar placed on a glass plate. with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
mendations. Consult and follow all appli- 8.2.4 Spot a test specimen with a 13.2 Editorially revised 2019. Revised
cable health and safety regulations (e.g., freshly prepared paste of calcium hydrox- 2016. Reaffirmed 2011. Editorially revised
OSHA standards and rules). ide (prepared by mixing the hydroxide 2010. Reaffirmed 2006. Editorially revised
2004. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001.
with a small amount of water), and dry Editorially revised 1995. Editorially revised
6. Apparatus, Materials and Reagents the specimen. Then brush the specimen and reaffirmed 1994. Reaffirmed 1989. Edito-
6.1 Beaker, 250 mL. to remove the dry powder. rially revised and reaffirmed 1986, 1981. Re-
6.2 Bell jar, 4 L, with a glass plate base. affirmed 1978, 1975, 1972. Revised 1957,
9. Evaluation 1952, 1945.
6.3 Evaporating dish, 7.6 cm. 13.3 Developed in 1925 by AATCC Com-
6.4 Hydrochloric acid (HCl), 35%. 9.1 After conditioning for 1 h in an mittee RR1. Maintained by RA99.

20 AATCC TM6-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter

1. Purpose and Scope 5.1 This method is not recommended tion of the test and the apparatus should
for use for carpets or for prints where the be made routinely and the results kept in
1.1 This test method determines the singling out of areas may be too small us- a log. The following observations and
amount of color transferred from the suring this method (see 14.1 and 14.2). corrective actions are extremely impor-
face of colored textile materials and other 5.2 Since washing, drycleaning, tant to avoid incorrect test results where
dyed materials (i.e., leather) to other sur- shrinkage, ironing, finishing, etc. may af- abnormal crock images can result and in-
faces by rubbing. fect the degree of color transfer from a fluence the rating process (see 14.7).
1.2 Test procedures employing white material, the test may be made before, after, 7.2 Use the crockmeter verification
crocking cloth squares, both dry and wet or before and after any such treatment. fabric or in-house poor crocking fabric
with water, are given. 5.3 This method is designed for use with known predictable and repeatable
with an AATCC crocking cloth as de- crocking behavior and conduct three dry
scribed in 14.5. Alternatively, other adja- and wet crock tests.
2. Principle cent textile substrates may be used as 7.2.1 A poor circular image with un-
2.1 A colored test specimen is rubbed agreed between interested parties. even dye pick-up may indicate the crock-
with a white crocking test cloth under ing finger needs resurfacing (see 14.8).
controlled conditions. 7.2.2 A double, elongated image may
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.3) indicate a loose clip (see 14.8).
2.2 Color transferred to the crocking
cloth is assessed by a comparison with 6.1 Crockmeter (see 14.4 and Fig. 1). 7.2.3 A stretched and streaked crock
the Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC image may be due to mounting the crock
6.2 AATCC Crocking Cloth, cut in 50 ±
EP2), the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic square diagonally.
1 mm squares (see 14.5).
Transference Scale (AATCC EP8), or 7.2.4 Scuff marks to the sides of the
6.3 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-
Instrumental Assessment of Degree of specimen indicate the loops of the wire
ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 14.6).
clip are positioned downwards and are

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Staining (AATCC EP12), and a grade is 6.4 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC
assigned. not high enough to prevent rubbing the
EP2) (see 14.6). specimen surface.
6.5 White AATCC Textile Blotting 7.2.5 A streak in the center of the crock
Paper (see 14.6). cloth image and in the direction of rub-
3. Terminology 6.6 Specimen holder for crockmeter. bing may indicate damage to the metal
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 6.7 Spiral wire clip for securing crock- base of the device. Contact the manufac-
a material to change in any of its color ing cloth to crockmeter finger. turer for recommended solution.
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 6.8 Crockmeter verification fabric, or 7.2.6 If specimen holder is used, place
ant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a in-house fabric with known poor color- the holder over the specimen on the tester
result of the exposure of the material to fastness to crocking properties, that pro- base. Verify that the holder is not imped-
any environment that might be encoun- vides repeatable and predictable crocking ing the motion of the finger or coming in
tered during the processing, testing, stor- results. contact with it in any way, adjust the
age or use of the material. 6.9 Emery paper to provide friction on holder as necessary to ensure free move-
3.2 crocking, n.—a transfer of color- the base of the crockmeter (see manufac- ment. Without correction, this problem
ant from the surface of a colored yarn or turer’s recommendations). will cause a dark area on one side of the
fabric to another surface or to an adjacent crocking image.
area of the same fabric principally by 7.2.7 Confirm the wet pick-up tech-
7. Verification
rubbing. niques (see 10.2).
7.1 Verification checks on the opera- 7.2.8 Replace the abrasive paper on the
tester base if it is smooth to the touch in
4. Safety Precautions the crocking area compared to the adja-
cent area, if slippage of the specimen is
NOTE: These safety precautions are noticed or if any ridges or bumps are
for information purposes only. The pre- noticed.
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 7.2.9 In routine testing, observe if mul-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
tiple streaks are on the crocking image.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use Position specimen normally with the long
safe and proper techniques in handling dimension oblique to the warp and fill-
materials in this test method. Manufac-
ing. If the direction of rubbing falls along
turers MUST be consulted for specific a twill line or surface pattern, etc., then
details such as material safety data sheets streaks may occur. If they do occur,
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
slightly adjust the angle for testing.
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 8. Test Specimens
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas. 8.1 Two specimens are used, one each
for the dry and the wet tests.
8.1.1 Additional specimens may be
5. Uses and Limitations Fig. 1—Crockmeter. used to increase the precision of the aver-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e 21

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
tiles. Condition each specimen for at least uators rate color transfer.
4 h in an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± Apply water evenly over the crocking
4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH by laying each test cloth square and weigh to verify 65 ± 5%
specimen or crock square separately on a pickup. If necessary, discard the square 12. Report
screen or perforated shelf of conditioning with insufficient or excessive weight and
use a new crocking cloth square. Repeat 12.1 State the grades of dry and wet
rack. crocking test, unless otherwise requested
this process each day (see 14.10).
An example of how to achieve this between parties.
10. Procedures pickup is: Using a syringe tube, gradu- 12.2 Report the grade determined in 11.3.
ated pipette or automatic pipetter, draw 12.3 State whether AATCC EP2,
10.1 Dry Crocking Test. up water in mL to 0.65 times weight of AATCC EP8 or AATCC EP12 was used
10.1.1 Place a test specimen on the crocking square. Example: If the crock- for evaluating staining (see 14.12).
base of the crockmeter, flat on the abra- ing square weight equals 0.24 g, the mL 12.4 If any pretreatment or aftertreat-
sive cloth, with its long dimension in the used would be 0.24 × 0.65 = 0.16 mL. ment was given to any specimens (see
direction of rubbing. Lay the crocking cloth square on white 5.2), indicate method of treatment.
10.1.2 Place specimen holder over plastic mesh over a dish. If needed, adjust
specimen and apply sufficient tension to the amount of water used to wet the
avoid slippage or wrinkling. 13. Precision and Bias (see 14.14)
square and using a new crocking cloth
10.1.3 Mount a crocking cloth square, square, repeat steps. When 65 ± 5% wet 13.1 Precision. An interlaboratory test
pickup is achieved, record the amount of was conducted in 1986 to establish the
water used. Draw up the recorded amount precision of the test method. Testing was
of water into the syringe tube, graduated conducted under the normal atmospheric
pipette or automatic pipette for each wet conditions of each laboratory and not
crocking performed during the current necessarily under ASTM D1776 standard
day. Other methods are available and can conditions. Two operators at each of 12
be used. laboratories evaluated 5 fabrics in 3 repli-
10.2.2 Avoid evaporative reduction of cations by both dry and wet test method.

Table I—Components of Variance

Dry Wet
Chromatic Gray Chromatic Gray
Single Operator/Rater 0.20 0.20 0.24 0.25
Within Laboratory 0.20 0.19 0.31 0.34
Fig. 2—Oblique alignment of specimen (left). Between Laboratory 0.10 0.17 0.38 0.54

22 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
eas too small to test with the standard crock- results. This attachment is 25 mm in diameter
Dry Wet
meter is necessary (see AATCC TM116, Test by 51 mm long. Positioned on its side and held
Lab A 4.5 3.5 Method for Colorfastness to Cracking: Rotary in place by the standard finger, it provides a
Lab B 4.0 1.5 Vertical Crockmeter). Specimens tested by wider test area, and holds the white test square
Difference 0.5 2.0 both test methods may show dissimilar results. by two spring loaded clips. For additional in-
There is no known correlation between the formation on this development see the article
two methods. by C. R. Trommer, “Modification of the
14.3 For potential equipment information AATCC Crockmeter for Yarn Testing,” Amer-
pertaining to this test method, please visit ican Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 45, No. 12, June
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. 4, 1956, p357; also see articles by S. Korpanty
Each of 3 raters independently rated the aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
stained crocking cloth squares using both and C. R. Trommer, “An Improved Crock-
of listing equipment and materials sold by its meter for Yarn Testing,” American Dyestuff
the Gray Scale for Staining and the Corporate members, but AATCC does not Reporter, Vol. 48, No. 6, March 23, 1959, p40.
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 14.10 Experienced operators do not have to
Scale. The original data is on file at the tify that any of the listed equipment or repeat this weighing procedure during a test
AATCC Technical Center. materials meets the requirements in its test session once the technique is established.
13.1.1 The components of variance as methods.
14.11 CAUTION: It has been reported that
standard deviations of the Gray Scale for 14.4 The crockmeter provides a reciprocat- the results for staining obtained by this
ing rubbing motion simulating the action of a
Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic human finger and forearm.
method on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy,
Transference Scale rating units are given black, etc.) that contain a combination of poly-
The crockmeter is so designed that the 16 ± ester and spandex, or their blends, may not
in Table I. 0.3 mm diameter finger moves back and forth,
13.1.2 Critical differences are given in show the full staining propensity of such fab-
with each complete turn of the crank, in a rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom-
Table II. straight line along a 104 ± 3 mm track on the mended that the staining results obtained by
13.1.3 Example for determining be- specimen, with a downward force of 9 ± 0.9 N this test not be used for the acceptance testing
tween laboratory differences using one (2 ± 0.2 lb). of such fabrics.
observer and the chromatic scale are 14.5 AATCC Crocking Cloth should meet 14.12 It has been noted that different grades
given in Table III. the following specifications: may result depending upon whether the
Interpretation: For the dry crock test, Fiber 100% 10.3-16.8 mm combed Gray Scale for Staining or AATCC 9-Step
since the difference between labs is less cotton staple with no optical Chromatic Transference Scale is used for the
than the critical differences in Table II brightener present evaluation. It is, therefore, important to report
(0.82), the difference in results is not sig- Yarn 15 tex (40/1 cotton count), which scale was used.
5.9 turns/cm “z” For very critical evaluations and in cases of
nificant. For the wet crock test, since the arbitration, grades must be based on the Gray
difference between labs is greater than Thread count for greige fabric 32 ± 5 warp
ends/cm: 33 ± 5 filling picks/ Scale for Staining.
the critical difference (1.53), the differ- 14.13 An automated electronic grading sys-
cm
ence in results is significant. Weave 1/1 plain tem may be used as long as the system has
13.2 Bias. The true value of colorfast- Finished fabric desized and bleached with no been demonstrated to provide results that are
ness to crocking can only be defined in optical brightener or finish- equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
terms of a test method. Within this limita- ing material present ity and reproducibility than an experienced
tion, this test method has no known bias. pH 7±1 grader performing visual evaluation.
Mass/sq meter 100 ± 3 g finished 14.14 The precision of this test method is
Whiteness W = 78 ± 3 (AATCC TM110) dependent on the combined variability of the
14. Notes material being tested, the test method itself,
14.5.1 CAUTION: ISO crock test cloth re- and the evaluation procedure utilized.
14.1 For carpets, AATCC TM165, Test sults may not be equivalent to AATCC crock- 14.14.1 The precision statement in Section
Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Car- ing cloth results/values based on crocking 13 was developed from results obtained by vi-
pets—Crockmeter, under the jurisdiction of cloth study. sual evaluation.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e 23

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

24 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration

1. Purpose and Scope sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
1.1 This test method is used to deter- materials in this test method. Manufac-
mine the fastness of colored textiles to turers MUST be consulted for specific
the effects of acid perspiration. It is appli- details such as material safety data sheets
cable to dyed, printed or otherwise col- and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
ored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics of all tions. All OSHA standards and rules
kinds and to the testing of dyestuffs as must also be consulted and followed.
applied to textiles.
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices.
1.2 Work by Committee RA52 showed Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas.
this test will correlate with limited field
4.2 All chemicals should be handled
studies. Prior to this there were acid and
alkaline tests; however, as a result of with care.
these studies the alkaline test was elimi- 4.3 Observe wringer safety. Normal
nated (see 13.1). safe guards on pad should not be re-
moved. Ensure adequate guard at the nip
2. Principle point. A foot operated kick off is recom-
mended for a motorized wringer.
2.1 A specimen of colored textile in
contact with other fiber materials (for 5. Apparatus, Materials and Reagents
color transfer) is wet out in simulated acid (see 13.2)
perspiration solution, subjected to a fixed
5.1 Perspiration tester (with acrylic Fig. 1—Horizontal perspiration tester.
mechanical pressure and allowed to dry
slowly at a slightly elevated temperature. plates) (see Figs. 1 and 2).
After conditioning, the specimen is eval- 5.2 Drying oven—convection.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

uated for color change and the other fiber 5.3 Balance with a weighing accuracy 5.9 White AATCC Textile Blotting Pa-
materials are evaluated for color transfer. of ± 0.001 g. per (see 13.4).
5.4 Cold cut Multifiber test fabric (8 5.10 Acid perspiration solution.
3. Terminology mm [0.33 in.] bands) containing acetate, 5.11 Petri dish with a depth greater
cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and than 1.5 cm and capable of containing a 6
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of wool shall be used for specimens contain- × 6 ± 0.2 cm test specimen
a material to change in any of its color ing silk. Multifiber test fabric (8 mm 5.12 Un-dyed adjacent fabric
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- [0.33 in.] bands) containing acetate, cot-
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a ton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool 6. Preparation of Reagent
result of the exposure of the material to
shall be used with specimens with no silk
any environment that might be encoun- 6.1 Prepare the acid perspiration solu-
present (see 13.3).
tered during the processing, testing, stor- tion by filling a 1 L volumetric flask half
age or use of the material. 5.5 pH meter accurate to ± 0.01.
5.6 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- full of distilled water. Add the following
3.2 perspiration, n.—a saline fluid se- chemicals and mix to be sure that all
creted by the sweat glands. ference Scale (AATCC Evaluation Proce-
dure 8) or Gray Scale for Staining chemicals are thoroughly dissolved:
(AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2) (see 10 ± 0.01 g sodium chloride (NaCl)
4. Safety Precautions 1 ± 0.01 g lactic acid, USP 85%
13.4).
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.7 Gray Scale for Color Change 1 ± 0.01 g sodium phosphate, dibasic,
for information purposes only. The pre- (AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 or 7) anhydrous (Na2HPO4)
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- (see 13.4). 0.25 ± 0.001 g -histidine monohydro-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.8 Wringer. chloride (C6H9N3O2⋅HCl⋅H2O)

Fig. 2—Vertical perspiration tester.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM15-2021e 25

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
is more than three days old (see 13.5). specimen assembly through the wringer ration tester with the specimens evenly
with the multifiber stripes perpendicular distributed between the 21 plates. Place
7. Verification to the length of the wringer rolls (all all 21 plates into the unit regardless of the
stripes go through the wringer at the same number of specimens. The plates are held
7.1 Verification checks on the opera- time). Weigh each test specimen to be in a vertical position between an indicat-
tion of the test and apparatus should be sure it weighs 2.25 ± 0.05 times its origi- ing scale with a fixed metal plate at one
made routinely and the results kept in a nal weight. Because certain fabrics may end and an adjustable metal plate at the
log. The following observations and cor- not be able to retain this amount of solu- other end. Use the adjusting screw to ex-
rective actions are extremely important to tion when passing through a wringer, ert a 4.54 kg (10.0 lb) force against the
avoid incorrect test results. such fabrics may be tested after blotting plates. Lock the specimen unit containing
7.2 Use an in-house perspiration fabric to the required wet pickup with White the test specimens with a set screw. Re-
with a mid-range visual grade on the AATCC Textile Blotting Paper (see move the pressure gauge unit from the
most heavily stained stripe of the multifi- 13.4). To obtain consistent results all specimen unit and place the specimen
ber cloth as a calibration specimen and specimens of a given construction in a unit in the oven such that the side of the
conduct a perspiration test using three test series should have identical pickup, perspiration tester is parallel to the oven
specimens. Verification checks should be as the degree of staining increases with walls. Another specimen unit may be
performed periodically as well as each the amount of retained solution. added to the pressure gauge unit and the
time a new lot of multifiber or undyed ad-
9.3 Place each test specimen assembly loading procedure repeated.
jacent fabric is used.
on an acrylic plate with the multifiber 9.5 Heat the loaded specimen unit in an
7.2.1 Non-uniform color transfer may
stripes running perpendicular to the long oven at 38 ± 1°C (100 ± 2°F) for 6 h ± 5
be due to improper wet-out procedures or
may be a result of uneven pressure on the dimension of the plate (see Fig. 3). min. Check the oven temperature periodi-
specimens due to warped plates in the 9.4 Depending upon equipment avail- cally to be sure it remains at the specified
tester. Check the wet-out procedures to able, use the following alternates: temperature throughout the test.
be sure that the balance is accurate and 9.4.1 Horizontal Perspiration Tester 9.6 Remove the tester from the oven
that the procedure is being carefully fol- (see Fig. 1): Place the plates in the perspi- and for each test specimen assembly, sep-
lowed. Check all plates to be sure they ration tester with the specimen assem- arate the multifiber fabric and, if used,
are in good condition and not warped. blies evenly distributed between the 21 the undyed adjacent fabric from the test
plates. Place all 21 plates into the unit re- fabric. Place the multifiber fabric and test
gardless of the number of specimens. Af- fabric specimens separately on a wire
8. Test Specimens
ter placing the final plate in position (on screen in a conditioned atmosphere (21 ±
8.1 Number and size of specimens. top) set the dual plates with compensat- 2°C [70 ± 4°F]) and 65 ± 5% relative hu-
8.1.1 For fabric testing, one specimen ing springs in position, place the 3.63 kg midity overnight.
6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm is needed. Attach a piece
of multifiber adjacent fabric measuring 5
× 5 ± 0.2 cm to the face of the specimen
by sewing a single seam stitch along one
edge of the fabric.
8.1.2 For yarn or loose fiber testing,
weigh a 5 × 5 ± 0.2 cm piece of multifi-
ber fabric and a 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm piece of
the un-dyed adjacent fabric together.
Then take a mass of the yarn or loose fi-
ber approximately equal to one half of the
combined mass of the adjacent fabrics.
Place it between the 5 × 5 ± 0.2 cm piece
of multifiber fabric and a 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm
piece of the un-dyed adjacent fabric, and
sew along all four sides.
8.1.3 Do not use multifiber test fabric
that has fused, sealed, or pre-sewn edges
because it might have thickness varia-
tions at the edges which would cause un-
even compression during testing.

9. Procedure
9.1 Weigh each test specimen (as pre-
pared in 8.1) to the nearest 0.1g. Place
each test specimen) in a petri dish. Add Fig. 3—Specimen in holder.

26 AATCC TM15-2021e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Table 2—Precision Table for

Stain Rating of Acrylic
No. of Within Lab Between Lab
Specimens Precision Precision
1 0.02773 0.03646
2 0.0196 0.0258
3 0.0160 0.0210
Fig. 4—Horizontal Perspiration tester placement in oven.
4 0.0139 0.0182
5 0.0124 0.0163
6 0.0113 0.0149
10. Evaluation (see 13.7) ferent time periods (June 2012, Decem-
ber 2012, June 2013, December 2013 and
10.1 General—Unsatisfactory perspi- June 2014) was used to define the preci- Table 3—Precision Table for
ration fastness may be due to bleeding or sion of stain rating and color change rat- Stain Rating of Cotton
migration of color or it may be due to ing values. Each lab used the same fabric
change in color of the dyed material. It materials to obtain the stain rating and
No. of Within Lab Between Lab
should be noted that objectionable color change rating values. Each lab per-
Specimens Precision Precision
change in color may be encountered with formed three replicate tests for each test 1 0.09994 0.1315
no apparent bleeding. On the other hand, material and used three different raters to 2 0.0708 0.0931
there may be bleeding with no apparent 3 0.0577 0.0759
assign ratings for staining and color
change in color, or there may be both 4 0.0500 0.0658
change. Each lab also used multi-fiber
bleeding and change in color. 5 0.0447 0.0588
fabric strips containing acetate, acrylic,
10.2 Rate the effect on the color of the 6 0.0408 0.0537
cotton, nylon, polyester and wool fibers
test specimens by comparison with the
to assess the staining of individual fibers.
Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
Evaluation Procedure 1), or using 12.1.1 Tables 1-6 give the within lab Table 4—Precision Table for
AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7, Instru- and between lab precision values for the Stain Rating of Nylon
mental Assessment of the Change in stain ratings of acetate, acrylic, cotton,
No. of Within Lab Between Lab
Color of a Test Specimen, and record the nylon, polyester and wool fibers. Specimens Precision Precision
numerical rating that corresponds to the 12.1.2 Table 7 gives the precision val-
ues for color change rating. As men- 1 0.040426 0.05312
appropriate one on the Gray Scale (see 2 0.0286 0.0376
13.4). tioned above, the multi-period data gen-
3 0.0233 0.0307
10.3 Rate the staining on each fiber erated by 188 different labs was used to 4 0.0202 0.0266
type of the multifiber, and the undyed compute the precision values. 5 0.0181 0.0238
original fabric if used, by comparison 12.1.3 In addition to providing the pre- 6 0.0165 0.0217
with the Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC cision values, the analysis of the multi-
Evaluation Procedure 2), the AATCC 9- period data revealed the following statis-
Step Chromatic Transference Scale tical facts: Table 5—Precision Table for
(AATCC Evaluation Procedure 8) or In- • The stain ratings assigned by different Stain Rating of Polyester
strumental Assessment of Degree of labs for acetate fiber differed signifi- No. of Within Lab Between Lab
Staining (AATCC Evaluation Procedure cantly at 95% confidence level. Specimens Precision Precision
12), and record the numerical rating that • The mean stain ratings of acetate fiber
corresponds to the appropriate one on ei- 1 0.019723 0.026041
corresponding to five different time
ther of them. (see 13.4.) 2 0.0140 0.0184
periods differed significantly at 95% 3 0.0114 0.0150
confidence level. 4 0.0099 0.0130
11. Report • The stain ratings assigned by different 5 0.0088 0.0116
labs for acrylic fiber differed signifi- 6 0.0081 0.0106
11.1 Report the color change grade and
the staining grades for each fiber type in cantly at 95% confidence level.
the multifiber test sample and state which • The mean stain ratings of acrylic fiber
scale (AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2, 8, corresponding to five different time
periods differed significantly at 95% periods differed significantly at 95%
or 12) was used in the staining evaluation
(see 13.4). confidence level. confidence level.
• The stain ratings assigned by different • The stain ratings assigned by different
12. Precision and Bias labs for cotton fiber did not differ sig- labs for nylon fiber did not differ sig-
nificantly at 95% confidence level. nificantly at 95% confidence level.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--

12.1 Precision. Proficiency data gener- • The mean stain ratings of cotton fiber • The mean stain ratings of nylon fiber
ated by 188 different labs during five dif- corresponding to five different time corresponding to five different time

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM15-2021e 27

labs for wool fiber differed signifi- qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- torially revised 1983, 1981; reaffirmed 1979;
cantly at 95% confidence level. revised 1976, 1975; editorially revised 1974;
• The mean stain ratings of wool fiber als meets the requirements in its test methods.
13.3 The six fiber test fabrics without fused revised 1973, 1972; reaffirmed 1967; editori-
corresponding to five different time edges should be used in this method. ally revised 1967; revised 1962; editorially re-
periods differed significantly at 95% 13.4 The AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- vised 1961; revised 1960, 1957, 1952.
confidence level. ference Scale, Gray Scale for Staining, Gray 14.2 Developed in 1949 by AATCC Com-
• The mean color change ratings of dif- Scale for Color Change and White AATCC mittee RR52; jurisdiction transferred to AATCC
ferent labs differed significantly at Textile Blotting Paper are available from Committee RA23 in 2006; related to ISO 105-
95% confidence level. AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle E04.

28 AATCC TM15-2021e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor

1. Purpose and Scope to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color 3.10 langley, n.—a unit of total solar
Change or 1.7 ± 0.3 CIELAB units of radiation equivalent to one gram calorie
1.1 This test method provides the gen- color difference on AATCC Blue Wool per square centimeter of irradiated sur-
eral principles and procedures for deter- Lightfastness Standard L4. face.
mining the colorfastness to light of textile 3.3 broad bandpass radiometer, n.— NOTE: The internationally recom-
materials outdoors under glass. The test a relative term applied to radiometers that mended units are: Joule (J) for quantity of
options described are applicable to textile have a bandpass width of more than 20 radiant energy, watt (W) for quantity of
materials of all kinds and for colorants, nm and less than 70 nm at 50% of maxi- radiant power, and meter squared (m2) for
finishes and treatments applied to textile mum transmittance. area. The following factors are to be
materials. used: 1 langley = 1 cal/cm2; 1 cal/cm2 =
3.4 color change, n.—as used in col-
1.2 This test method contains the fol- 4.184 J/cm2 or 41840 J/m2.
orfastness testing, a change in color of
lowing sections. 3.11 lightfastness, n.—the property of
any kind whether a change in lightness,
Section hue or chroma or any combination of a material, usually an assigned number,
Principle....................................... 2 these, discernible by comparing the test depicting a ranked change in its color
Terminology................................. 3 specimen with a corresponding untested characteristics as a result of exposure of
Safety Precautions ....................... 4 specimen. the material to sunlight or an artificial
Uses and Limitations ................... 5 3.5 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of light source.
Apparatus and Materials.............. 6 a material to change in any of its color 3.12 narrow bandpass radiometer,
Comparison Standards................. 7 characteristics, to transfer of its colo- n.—a relative term applied to radiometers
Test Specimen Preparation .......... 8 rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both as a that have a bandpass width of 20 nm or
General Conditions ...................... 9 result of exposure of the material to any less at 50% of maximum transmittance
Daylight Exposure Procedures .... 10-12 environment that might be encountered and can be used to measure irradiance at
Evaluation of Results................... 13-15 during the processing, testing, storage or wavelengths such as 340 or 420, ± 0.5 nm.
Report .......................................... 16 use of the material. 3.13 photochromism, n.—a qualita-
Precision and Bias ....................... 17-18 3.6 colorfastness to light, n.—the re- tive designation for a reversible change in
References.................................... 19 sistance of a material to a change in its color of any kind (whether a change in
Notes ............................................ 20 color characteristics as a result of expo- hue or chroma) which is immediately no-
Appendix...................................... A sure of the material to sunlight or an arti- ticeable upon termination of light expo-
Appendix...................................... B ficial light source. sures when the exposed area of a speci-
3.7 infrared radiation, n.—radiant men is compared to the unexposed area.
2. Principle energy for which the wavelengths of the NOTE: The reversal of the color
monochromatic components are greater change or instability of the hue or chroma
2.1 Specimens of the textile material to than those for visible radiation and less upon standing in the dark distinguishes
be tested and the agreed upon comparison than about 1 mm. photochromism from fading.
standard(s) are exposed simultaneously 3.14 pyranometer, n.—a radiometer
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range
to daylight behind window glass under used to measure the global solar irradi-
of infrared radiation are not well defined
specified conditions. The colorfastness to ance or, if inclined, hemispherical solar
and may vary according to the user.
light of the specimen is evaluated by irradiance.
Committee E-2.1.2 of the CIE distin-
comparison of the color change of the ex-
guishes in the spectral range between 780 3.15 radiant power, n.—energy per
posed portion to the masked control por-
nm and 1 mm: unit time emitted, transferred or received
tion of the test specimen or unexposed
IR-A 780-1400 nm as radiation.
original material using the Gray Scale for
Color Change (AATCC EP1), or by In- IR-B 1.4-3.0 µm 3.16 radiant exposure, n.—time inte-
strumental Color Measurement (AATCC IR-C 3 µm to 1 mm gral of irradiance, typically reported in
EP6). Lightfastness classification is ac- 3.8 irradiance, n.—radiant power per joules per square meter, J/m2.
complished by evaluation versus a simul- unit area incident on a receiver, typically 3.17 radiometer, n.—an instrument
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

taneously exposed series of AATCC Blue reported in watts per square meter (W/ used to measure radiant energy.
Wool Lightfastness Standards. m2). 3.18 total irradiance, n.—radiant
3.9 “L” designation, n.—the sequence power integrated over all wavelengths at
number given each AATCC Blue Wool a point in time expressed in watts per
3. Terminology
Lightfastness Standard according to the square meter (W/m2).
3.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness number of AATCC Fading Units required 3.19 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant
Standard, n.—one of a group of dyed to produce a color change equal to Step 4 energy for which the wavelengths of the
wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for on the Gray Scale for Color Change. monochromatic components are smaller
use in determining the amount of light NOTE: See Table I for the numerical than those for visible radiation and more
exposure of specimens during lightfast- relationship between “L” designations of than about 100 nm.
ness testing (see 20.1). the standards and their colorfastness to NOTE: The limits of the spectral range
3.2 AATCC Fading Unit (AFU), n.— light in AFUs. The colorfastness to light of ultraviolet radiation are not well de-
a specific amount of exposure made un- of a fabric specimen can be determined fined and may vary according to the user.
der the conditions specified in various by comparing its color change after light Committee E.2.1.2 of the CIE distin-
test methods where one AFU is one- exposure with that of the most similar guishes in the spectral range between 400
twentieth (1/20) of the light-on exposure AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan- and 100 nm:
required to produce a color change equal dard as shown in Table II. UV-A 315-400 nm

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 29

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
UV-B 280-315 nm interchangeably, unless a mathematical Standards L2 through L9 (see 20.1 and
UV-C 100-280 nm correlation has been established. No cor- 20.3).
3.20 visible radiation, n.—any radiant relations among differently constructed 6.2 Gray Scale for Color Change
energy capable of causing a visual sensa- test apparatus are known to AATCC (AATCC EP1) (see 20.3).
tion. Committee RA50. 6.3 Card stock: 163 g/m2 (90 lb) one
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range 5.2 Since the spectral distribution of ply, White Bristol Index.
of visible radiation are not well defined Xenon-Arc, Alternate Light and Dark, 6.4 Test masks made of material ap-
and may vary according to the user. The equipped with the specified daylight filter proaching zero light transmittance, and
lower limit is generally taken between glass (according to ASTM G155) is very suitable for multiple exposure levels,
380 and 400 nm and the upper limit be- close to that of average or typical day- such as 10, 20, 40, etc. AFU.
tween 760 and 780 nm (1 nanometer, 1 light behind window glass, it is expected 6.5 Spectrophotometer or Colorimeter
nm = 10–9 m). that similar photochemical degradation (see 19.2).
3.21 wide bandpass radiometer, n.– a reactions in similar ratios appear and 6.6 Daylight Exposure Cabinet (see
relative term applied to radiometers that therefore the results should be in good 20.4, 20.7 and Appendix A).
have a bandpass width of more than 70 agreement with the results obtained in
nm at 50% of maximum transmittance. natural Daylight, Daylight Behind Glass. 7. Comparison Standards
NOTE: Wide bandpass radiometers The two carbon-arc options, Continuous
can be used to measure irradiance at and Alternating Light and Dark, under 7.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
wavelengths such as 300-800 nm. the conditions specified, will produce re- Standards, as defined in AATCC
3.22 For definitions of other terms rel- sults which correlate with those obtained TM16.1, are preferred for all options.
ative to lightfastness used in this test in the Daylight Behind Glass Method un- However, the rate of fade of any AATCC
method, refer to AATCC M11. less the material being tested is adversely Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard by one
affected by the differences in spectral test option may not agree with that of
4. Safety Precautions characteristics of Enclosed Carbon-Arc other test options.
and natural light. 7.2 The reference standard can be any
NOTE: These safety precautions are suitable textile material where a history
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.3 When using this test method, the of the rate of color change is known. Ref-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- test method option selected should incor- erence standards for comparison must be
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- porate light, humidity, and heat effects determined and agreed upon by the con-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use based upon historical data and experi- tractual parties. Standards must be ex-
safe and proper techniques in handling ence. The test method option selected posed simultaneously with the test speci-
materials in this test method. Manufac- should also reflect expected end-use con- men. The use of the standard assists in
turers MUST be consulted on specific de- ditions associated with the material to be determining time-to-time equipment and
tails such as material safety data sheets tested. test procedure variations. If test results
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.4 When using this test method, use a of the exposed standards differ by more
tions. All OSHA standards and rules standard of comparison which has a than 10% from the known standard data,
must also be consulted and followed. known change in lightfastness after a spe- thoroughly review the test equipment
4.1 Daylight exposure of the skin and cific exposure for comparison to the operating conditions, and correct any
eyes for prolonged periods may be haz- material to be tested. AATCC Blue Wool malfunctions or defective parts. Then, re-
ardous and therefore caution should be Lightfastness Standards have been used peat the test.
employed to protect these areas. Do not extensively for this purpose.
look directly at the sun under any circum- 8. Test Specimen Preparation
stances. 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 20.2)
4.2 Good laboratory practices should 8.1 Number of Specimens—For accep-
be followed. 6.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness tance testing, use at least three replicate
specimens of both the material to be
5. Uses and Limitation tested and the standard for comparison to
ensure accuracy unless otherwise agreed
5.1 Not all materials are affected Table I—AATCC Fading Unit and upon between the purchaser and the
equally by the same light source and en- Light Exposure Equivalents for supplier.
vironment. Results obtained by the use of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness NOTE: It is recognized that in practice
any one test option may not be represen- Standards (see Section 17)a one test and one control specimen are
tative of those of any other test option or used for test purposes. While such a pro-
any end-use application unless a mathe- AATCC cedure cannot be accepted in cases of
matical correlation for a given material Blue Wool AATCC Xenon Only Xenon Only dispute, it may be sufficient in routine
and/or a given application has been estab- Lightfastness Fading kJ/(m2 nm) kJ/(m2 nm) testing.
lished. Enclosed Carbon-Arc, Xenon-Arc Standard Units @ 420 nm 300-400 nm 8.2 Specimen Cutting and Mounting—
and natural Daylight have been exten- L2 5 21 864 Identify each specimen using a label re-
sively used in the trade for acceptance L3 10 43 1728 sistant to the environment encountered
testing of textile materials. There may be L4 20 85b 3456 during the test. Mount in frames such that
a distinct difference in spectral irradiance, L5 40 170 6912 the surface of the test specimen and the
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

b
air temperature and humidity sensor loca- L6 80 340b 13824 reference specimen are the same distance
tions, and test chamber size between test L7 160 680 27648 from the light source. Use covers that
L8 320 1360 55296
equipment supplied by different manu- L9 640 2720 1105920 avoid specimen surface compression,
facturers that can result in differences in particularly when testing pile fabrics. The
reported test results. Consequently, data a test specimen and the reference standards
For color change of Step 4 on the Gray Scale for
obtained from equipment supplied by the Color Change. shall be of equal size and shape. Cut and
different manufacturers, different test b
Verified by experiment using Daylight Behind prepare test specimens for exposure as
chamber size, or different light source Glass and Xenon-Arc, Continuous Light. All follows:
and filter combinations cannot be used other values are calculated (see Section 17). 8.2.1 Specimen Backing—For all op-

30 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Equal To But Not 10.1 Use of AATCC Blue Wool Light-

Less Than Greater Than More Than Lightfastness AATCC Fading fastness Standards—Mount reference and
Standard Standard Standard Class Units (AFU) test specimen(s) to be exposed as directed
— — L2 L1 in 9.1 and expose simultaneously to the
— L2 L3 L2 5 same test conditions behind glass as di-
L2 — L3 L2-3 rected in 9.2. Monitor the effect of light
— L3 L4 L3 10 by frequently removing the standard(s)
L3 — L4 L3-4 from the test frame and evaluating the
— L4 L5 L4 20 color change. Continue the exposure until
L4 — L5 L4-5
the standard exhibits a difference in color
— L5 L6 L5 40
L5 — L6 L5-6
between the exposed and masked portion
— L6 L7 L6 80 as described in Section 14. When the test
L6 — L7 L6-7 of the specimens is to be terminated after
— L7 L8 L7 160 exposure to a specified number of
L7 — L8 L7-8 AATCC Fading Units, choose the appro-
— L8 L9 L8 320 priate standard to achieve the end point.
L8 — L9 L8-9 The standards may be used as a set,
— L9 — L9 640 L2 through L9, or in replicate sets ex-
posed consecutively to total a given end
a
The following are examples for using Table II to assign lightfastness classifications: point; that is, singularly expose two L2
The test specimen is exposed simultaneously with standards L4, L5, and L6. After exposure and condition- standards to reach 10 fading units, or
ing, the color change exhibited by the test specimen is less than that exhibited by the standards L4 and L5 expose one L3 standard to reach 10 fading
but greater than that exhibited by the standard L6. The test specimen would be assigned a Lightfastness units.
Classification of L5-6, or use the following example.
10.1.1 Remove the specimens from ex-
The test specimen is examined after each exposure increment until it exhibits a color change equal to Step posure when the desired AATCC Fading
4 on the Gray Scale for Color Change. If this occurs after 40 AFU and before 80 AFU exposure, the test Units have been achieved and evaluate as
specimen would be assigned a Lightfastness Classification of L5-6.
specified in Evaluation of Results. For
multiple step exposure, that is, 5 fading
units and 20 fading units, a single speci-
tions, mount the specimens and standards contain the same number of strands as the
men may be exposed, and portions cov-
on white card stock. The card stock shall specimen subjected to exposure. After
the exposure has been completed, bind ered (masked) at intervals measured by
be white, non-reflecting cardboard. Con-
together those yarns facing the light the standard. The result will be a speci-
sult the AATCC Buyer’s Guide (www.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

source using 20.0 mm (0.75 in.) masking men having an original masked, unex-
aatcc.org/bg) for information. When
or other suitable tape to keep the yarns posed section and various sections which
mounted test specimens are masked, use
closely packed on the exposure frame for have been exposed and subsequently
test masks approaching zero light trans-
evaluation (see 20.6). masked. Each section of the specimen,
mittance. Put the mounted, or mounted
representing a stated exposure interval,
and masked, test specimens in frames
can be evaluated versus masked control
with backing as directed in an applicable 9. General Conditions or an unexposed original portion of the
specification: such as open-backed, solid
9.1 Mount the AATCC Blue Wool specimen.
metal, or solid backing (white card-
board). Lightfastness Standard(s) and the test 10.2 Use of Irradiation Monitors—
specimen(s) on cardboard with an opaque Mount reference and test specimen(s) to
8.2.2 Fabric—Cut swatches of fabric cover (mask) covering one-half of the be exposed as directed in 9.1 and expose
with the long direction parallel to the ma- standard. them simultaneously to the same test con-
chine (warp) direction, at least 70.0 mm × 9.2 Expose standards and test speci- ditions behind glass as directed in 9.2.
120.0 mm (2.75 in × 4.7 in.) with the ex- men(s) simultaneously to the same test
posed area measuring not less than 30.0 NOTE: The exposure of the AATCC
conditions behind glass (see 20.8 and Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards with
mm × 30.0 mm (1.2 in × 1.2 in.). Secure Appendix A). Ensure that the face of the
the backed specimens in the frames sup- their known performance can be helpful
exposed standard(s) and test specimen(s) in determining whether any unusual con-
plied with the test apparatus. Ensure that are at least 75.0 mm (3.0 in.) below the
front and back covers of the holders make ditions were present during the test dura-
inside surface of the plate glass cover and tion (see 20.8).
good contact with the specimens and give are positioned at least 150.0 mm (6.0 in.)
a sharp line of demarcation between the in from the edges of the glass frame. The 10.2.1 Record any one, or a combina-
exposed and unexposed areas without back of the exposure cabinet may be tion of global, broad bandpass (preferred
compressing the specimen unnecessarily varied as follows to achieve the desired from 295-385 nm), or narrow bandpass
(see 20.5). When required to prevent rav- exposure conditions: irradiation with a radiometer, exposed
eling, the specimens may be edged by Backing Exposure Condition under the same conditions as the speci-
sewing, pinking or fusing. Open/Expanded Low Temperature mens.
8.2.3 Yarns—Wind or fasten yarns on Metal 10.2.2 Remove the reference and test
frames of white card stock to a length of Solid High Temperature specimens from exposure when the de-
approximately 150.0 mm (6.0 in.). Only Standard(s) and specimen(s) remain ex- sired radiant energy, as measured by the
that portion of the yarns directly facing posed 24 h a day and are removed only radiometer, has been achieved. For multi-
the radiant energy is evaluated for color for inspection. ple step exposure, a single specimen may
change. Wind the yarn on the frame 9.3 Monitor temperature and relative be exposed, and portions covered
closely packed to at least 25.0 mm (1.0 humidity in the vicinity of the test cabi- (masked) at intervals of measured radiant
in.) width. The control specimen must nets (see 20.10). exposure (see 10.1.1).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 31

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
and 10.2, as applicable. mentally
original portion of the specimen (pre-
ferred), as specified in a material specifi- f) Classification method
cation or purchase order. Complete char- g) Reference standard (if any)
12. Daylight Exposure for Lightfastness
acterization of the lightfastness of a test h) Exposure controlled by: AATCC
Classification
specimen requires evaluation at more Blue Wool, radiant energy or other
12.1 One-Step Method—Expose test than one level of exposure. A difference i) Total radiant energy
specimen(s), as detailed in 9.1 and 9.2, in color between unexposed material and j) Elapsed exposures time
simultaneously with a series of AATCC the masked portion of the exposed speci- k) Mounting procedure (backed or un-
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards or de- men indicates that the textile has been af- backed)
termine the number of AATCC Fading fected by some agent other than light, l) Deviations from AATCC TM16.1
Units required to produce a color change such as heat or a reactive gas in the atmo- or the performance of the reference stan-
in the test specimen equal to Step 4 on the sphere. Although the exact cause of this dard, if any
Gray Scale for Color Change (see 20.11). difference in color may not be known, m) Geographical location
12.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as it should be noted in the report when it n) Exposure dates
directed in 12.1, except double the expo- occurs. o) Site latitude and exposure angle
sure area of the test specimens. After the 14.2 Quantify the color change using p) Type of exposure
specimen has been exposed to a color either AATCC EP1, or AATCC EP7, In- q) Daily ambient temperature (min °C,
change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale strumental Assessment of the Change in max °C and avg °C), and relative humid-
for Color Change, remove the specimens Color of a Test Specimen, at the specified ity (min, max and avg)
from the test chamber and mask (cover) exposure level whether in AATCC Fad-
one-half of the exposed area and continue ing Units or compared to a reference Precision and Bias
the exposure until the test specimen ex- standard (see 20.12 and 20.13).
hibits a color change equal to Step 3 on 14.3 Determine total color difference 17. Precision
the Gray Scale for Color Change (see (DECIELAB) and the difference in lightness,
20.11). chroma, and hue (DL*, DC*, DH*). Use 17.1 Interlaboratory Test Summary—
instruments that provide values based on Committee RA50 has conducted exten-
Evaluation of Results the CIE 1976 equation using illuminant sive studies to evaluate the use of radia-
D65 and 10° observer data. For instru- tion monitoring devices to terminate ex-
13. Conditioning ments with diffuse geometry, include the posures in lightfastness testing. Data has
specular component of reflectance in the been collected in interlaboratory studies
13.1 After the test exposure is com- measurements (refer to AATCC EP6). using controlled irradiance, xenon-arc
pleted, remove the test specimens and equipment and in daylight exposures con-
comparison standards from exposure. 15. Acceptance Based on Simultaneous ducted during a two-year period in both
Condition in a dark room at standard con- Exposure of a Reference Specimen Arizona and Southern Florida. In both
ditions for testing textiles, as directed in studies, one laboratory conducted instru-
ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for 15.1 Assess color change of the mate- mental measurement of the color change
Conditioning and Testing Textiles, [65 ± rial (not blue wool) as directed in Section for all exposed specimens.
5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F)] for a 14 in terms of the agreed upon reference 17.2 The interlaboratory studies were

32 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Sample Identification _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Material Exposed: Face Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating_ Lightfastness Classification

Acceptance Compared to Reference Sample (Yes/No)_____________________________________

Test Specimen Compared To: Masked Portion ___________________________________

Unmasked Portion__ Unexposed Original _

Colorfastness to Light Rating determined by:

Gray Scale for Color Change __________________________________________

Instrumentally, Name Type __________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Classification Method_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Reference Standard__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Temperature Controlled By: Ambient (Dry Bulb) _____________________________________ °C

Black Panel __ °C Black Standard _ °C

Exposure Controlled By: AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards _______________________________________

Radiant Energy __ Other

Total Radiant Energy __________________________________

Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________________________________ Model No.

Serial No. Manufacturer’s Name_______________________________________

Specimen Rack: Inclined ___________________ 2-Tier ____________________ 3-Tier ____________________ Horizontal ________________________

Type of Water Supply_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Option Employed _____________________________________ Elapsed Exposure Time ______________________________

Mounting Procedure: Backed Unbacked_

Sample Rotation Schedule % Relative Humidity__

For Daylight Behind Glass, report the following:

Geographical Location________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Exposure Dates: From ____ To _

Exposure Latitude __ Exposure Angle _

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ___ If Yes, Specify Type_

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily Black Panel Temperature: Minimum __________°C Maximum __________°C Avg. __________°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum Maximum Avg. __

Hours of Wetness: Rain ___________ Rain and Dew

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 33

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
mens is affected differently by variations test cabinet selection. masked, and expose simultaneously in another
in temperature, humidity, atmospheric 20.5 Pile fabric, such as carpets, which cabinet of the same type used in the light ex-
contaminants, etc.; however, the single have fibers that may shift position, or texture posures but with the glass covered with an
most significant variable is radiation. The which may make evaluations in small areas opaque material so that the light is excluded.
variation in color change resulting from difficult should be tested with an exposed area Since there is a combined effect of light, tem-
of not less than approximately 40.0 × 50.0 mm perature, humidity and atmospheric contami-
exposure during different years, loca- (1.6 × 2.0 in.). Expose sufficient size or multi- nants, it cannot be assumed that a comparison
tions, and seasons, averaged ± 30%. ple specimens to include all colors in the spec- between specimens exposed in the covered
17.4 A more detailed summary of these imen. cabinet and in the uncovered cabinet under
test results was presented to the 14th 20.6 Specimen frames must be made of glass will permit separating the effects pro-
meeting of ISO, Technical Committee 38, stainless steel, aluminum, or suitably coated duced by light only. However, a comparison
Subcommittee 1 as Document 38/1 N steel to avoid contaminating the specimens of the two sets of specimens with a piece of
993, USA Report on Monitoring of Radi- with metallic impurities that might catalyze or the original which has not been in an exposure
ation during Lightfastness Testing. inhibit the degradation. When specimens are cabinet will indicate whether a material is sen-
fastened with staples, they should be of the sitive to moisture and atmospheric contami-
18. Bias nonferrous type overcoated to avoid contaminants. This may also help to explain why
nation of the specimen by corrosion products. different results may be obtained with the
18.1 The colorfastness to natural and Metal frames must have a dull finish and be same amount of radiant energy in daylight ex-
artificial light can be defined only in designed to avoid reflectances that could in- posures made at different times and in differ-
terms of a test method. There is no inde- fluence the performance of the material. ent locations.
pendent method for determining the true Frames shall conform to the curvature of the 20.9 Available from ASTM International,
value. As a means of estimating this specimen rack. The size of the frame is deter- 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
property, the method has no known bias. mined by the type specimens required for indi- 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
vidual property requirements. 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
The following references provide back- 20.10 For measuring temperature and rela-
19. References ground information on radiation measure- tive humidity of the air under the same condi-
19.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- ments by Light Control Systems: tions that the specimens and reference
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change 20.6.1 Handbook of Chemistry & Physics, materials are exposed and in the vicinity of
(see 20.3). 61st Edition, 1980, edited by Robert C. Weast; test cabinets, any suitable indicating or record-
19.2 AATCC EP6, Evaluation Proce- The Chemical Rubber Co., Cleveland OH. ing instrument may be used. Continuous re-
20.6.2 International Commission on Illumi- cording of temperature and relative humidity
dure for Instrumental Color Measurement nation (CIE) Publication No. 20, 1972. is preferred.
(see 20.3). 20.6.3 Atlas Sun Spots, Vol. 4, No 9, Spring 20.11 An automated electronic grading sys-
19.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- 1975, Atlas Material Testing Technology tem may be used as long as the system has
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the LLC, Chicago, IL. been demonstrated to provide results that are
Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see 20.7 Refer to ASTM G24 for guidance on equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
20.3). window glass selection. ity and reproducibility than an experienced

34 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
classification would illustrate a L5 classifica- equipped with a rack which supports the whereas in most temperature and sub-
tion at Step 3 color change and a L4 classifica- specimens in a plane parallel to that of tropical areas, it should be low cut grass.
tion at Step 4 color change. When only one the glass cover with the face of the speci- The type of ground cover should be indi-
classification number is assigned, it shall rep-
resent the number of AATCC Fading Units to men at a distance below it of not less than cated in the report.
produce a Step 4 color change. 75.0 mm (3.0 in.). The specimen mount- A6 Instruments for determining clima-
20.13 Classification above L7 AATCC ing rack shall be constructed of a material tological data during the exposure period
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard that is compatible with the test speci- shall be operated in the immediate area of
20.13.1 Using Table III, classify lightfast- mens. It may be either the open type pro- the exposure cabinets. When requested,
ness above the L7 AATCC Blue Wool Light- viding good ventilation on the back side data obtained shall be reported as part of
fastness Standard according to the total of the specimen, or of a solid material as
number of consecutive L7 standards exposed the results of the test. To characterize the
required. To minimize shadows from the
to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color Change conditions around the test frame, these
top and the sides of the cabinet, the us-
during the exposure cycle that is required to instruments should be capable of record-
able exposure area under glass shall be
produce a Step 4 color change on the test spec-
limited to that of the glass cover reduced ing: ambient temperature (daily mini-
imen, and Table III. mum and maximum), relative humidity
by twice the distance from the cover to
the specimens. (daily minimum and maximum), hours of
21. History
A3 The cabinet shall be located where precipitation (rain), and total hours of
21.1 Revised in 2022 for clarity and to add it will receive direct daylight throughout wetness (rain and dew). To characterize
the History section. the day and where shadows of objects in the conditions within the test frame, these
21.2 Editorially revised 2021, 2019, 2016; the vicinity will not fall upon it. When instruments should be capable of record-
revised 2014, 2012 (Supersedes AATCC the cabinet is installed over soil, the dis- ing: ambient temperature under glass
TM16-2004); editorially revised 2009; revised tance between the bottom of the cabinet (daily minimum and maximum), black-
2004, 2003; reaffirmed 1998; editorially re- and the plane of the cleared area shall be panel temperature sensor under glass, to-
vised 1996, 1995; revised 1993, 1990 (Super- tal radiant exposure and ultraviolet radi-
sedes AATCC TM16-1987, TM16A-1988,
great enough to prevent any undesirable
TM16C-1988, TM16D-1988, TM16E-1987, effects of contact with grass or other plant ant exposure (either broad or narrow
TM16F-1988 and TM16G-1985); editorially growth during the period of exposure. bandpass) at the same angle of exposure
revised 1986, 1984,1983; revised 1982, 1981, A4 The glass cover and the test speci- as the test specimens, and relative humid-
1978; reaffirmed 1977; revised 1974, 1971. men shall slope toward the equator at an ity (daily minimum and maximum).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 35

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

36 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Carbon-Arc

1. Purpose and Scope plished by evaluation versus a simulta- these, discernible by comparing the test
neously exposed series of AATCC Blue specimen with a corresponding untested
1.1 This test method provides the gen- Wool Lightfastness Standards. specimen.
eral principles and procedures for deter- 3.7 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of
mining the colorfastness to light of textile a material to change in any of its color
materials. The test options described are 3. Terminology
characteristics, to transfer of its colo-
applicable to textile materials of all kinds 3.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both as a
and for colorants, finishes and treatments Standard, n.—one of a group of dyed result of exposure of the material to any
applied to textile materials. Test options wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for environment that might be encountered
included are: use in determining the amount of light during the processing, testing, storage or
1—Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Con- exposure of specimens during lightfast- use of the material.
tinuous Light ness testing (see 34.1). 3.8 colorfastness to light, n.—the re-
2—Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp, Alter-
3.2 AATCC Fading Unit (AFU), n.— sistance of a material to a change in its
nate Light and Dark
a specific amount of exposure made un- color characteristics as a result of expo-
1.2 The use of these test options does
der the conditions specified in various sure of the material to sunlight or an arti-
not imply, expressly or otherwise, an ac-
test methods where one AFU is one- ficial light source.
celerated test for a specific application.
twentieth (1/20) of the light-on exposure 3.9 infrared radiation, n.—radiant
The relationship between any lightfast-
required to produce a color change equal energy for which the wavelengths of the
ness test and the actual exposure in use
to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color monochromatic components are greater
must be determined and agreed upon by
Change or 1.7 ± 0.3 CIELAB units of than those for visible radiation and less
the contractual parties.
color difference on AATCC Blue Wool than about 1 mm.
1.3 This test method contains the fol-
Lightfastness Standard L4. NOTE: The limits of the spectral range
lowing sections that assist in the use
and implementation of the various op- 3.3 black-panel thermometer, n.—a of infrared radiation are not well defined
tions for determining lightfastness of tex- temperature measuring device, the sens- and may vary according to the user.
tile materials: ing unit of which is coated with black Committee E-2.1.2 of the CIE distin-
paint designed to absorb most of the radi- guishes in the spectral range between 780
Section ant energy encountered in lightfastness nm and 1 mm:
Principle...................................... 2 testing (see 34.2). IR-A 780-1400 nm
Terminology................................ 3 3.3.1 This device provides an estima- IR-B 1.4-3.0 µm
Safety Precautions ...................... 4 tion of the maximum temperature a spec- IR-C 3 µm to 1 mm
Uses and Limitations .................. 5 imen may attain during exposure to artifi-
Apparatus and Materials............. 6 3.10 irradiance, n.—radiant power per
cial light. Any deviation from the unit area incident on a receiver, typically
Comparison Standards................ 7 geometry of this device described in 34.2
Test Specimen Preparation ......... 8 reported in watts per square meter (W/ m2).
may have an influence on the measured 3.11 “L” designation, n.—the se-
Machine Operating Conditions .. 9, 17 temperature.
Calibration and Verification ....... 10-11, quence number given each AATCC Blue
3.4 black standard thermometer, Wool Lightfastness Standard according
18-19
n.—a temperature measuring device, the to the number of AATCC Fading Units
AATCC Fading Unit
sensing unit of which is coated with black required to produce a color change equal
Measurement .......................... 12, 20
material designed to absorb most of the to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color
Machine Exposure Procedures ... 13-16,
radiant energy encountered in lightfast- Change.
21-24
ness testing and is thermally insulated by NOTE: See Table I for the numerical
Evaluation of Results.................. 25-29
means of a plastic plate (see 34.2). relationship between “L” designations of
Report ......................................... 30

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Precision and Bias ...................... 31-32 3.4.1 This device provides an estima- the standards and their colorfastness to
References................................... 33 tion of the maximum temperature a spec- light in AFUs. The colorfastness to light
Notes ........................................... 34 imen may attain during exposure to artifi- of a fabric specimen can be determined
Appendix..................................... A cial light. Any deviation from the by comparing its color change after light
Appendix..................................... B geometry of the device described in 3.4.2 exposure with that of the most similar
may have an influence on the measured AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan-
temperature. The temperature measured dard as shown in Table II.
2. Principle by the black standard thermometer will 3.12 langley, n.—a unit of total solar
2.1 Specimens of the textile material to not be the same as that measured by the radiation equivalent to one gram calorie
be tested and the agreed upon comparison black-panel thermometer; therefore, they per square centimeter of irradiated surface.
standard(s) are exposed simultaneously cannot be used interchangeably. NOTE: The internationally recom-
to a light source under specified condi- 3.5 broad bandpass radiometer, n.— mended units are: Joule (J) for quantity of
tions. The colorfastness to light of the a relative term applied to radiometers that radiant energy, watt (W) for quantity of
specimen is evaluated by comparison of have a bandpass width of more than 20 radiant power, and meter squared (m2) for
the color change of the exposed portion nm and less than 70 nm at 50% of maxi- area. The following factors are to be
to the masked control portion of the test mum transmittance. used: 1 langley = 1 cal/cm2; 1 cal/cm2 =
specimen or unexposed original material 3.6 color change, n.—as used in col- 4.184 J/cm2 or 41840 J/m2.
using the Gray Scale for Color Change, orfastness testing, a change in color of 3.13 lightfastness, n.—the property of a
or by instrumental color measurement. any kind whether a change in lightness, material, usually an assigned number, de-
Lightfastness classification is accom- hue or chroma or any combination of picting a ranked change in its color charac-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.2-2022 37

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
L9 640 2720 1105920 have a bandpass width of more than 70 tions among differently constructed test
nm at 50% of maximum transmittance. apparatus are known to AATCC Com-
a
For color change of Step 4 on the Gray Scale for NOTE: Wide bandpass radiometers mittee RA50.
Color Change. can be used to measure irradiance at 5.2 When using this test method, the
b
Verified by experiment using Daylight Behind wavelengths such as 300-800 nm. test method option selected should incor-
Glass and Xenon-Arc, Continuous Light. All 3.24 For definitions of other terms rel- porate light, humidity, and heat effects
other values are calculated (see Section 31). ative to lightfastness used in this test based upon historical data and experience.
method, refer to AATCC M11. The test method option selected should
also reflect expected end-use conditions
4. Safety Precautions associated with the material to be tested.
teristics as a result of exposure of the mate-
rial to sunlight or an artificial light source. 5.3 When using this test method, use a
NOTE: These safety precautions are standard of comparison which has a
3.14 narrow bandpass radiometer, for information purposes only. The pre-
n.—a relative term applied to radiometers known change in lightfastness after a spe-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- cific exposure for comparison to the ma-
that have a bandpass width of 20 nm or dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
less at 50% of maximum transmittance terial to be tested. AATCC Blue Wool
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use Lightfastness Standards have been used
and can be used to measure irradiance at safe and proper techniques in handling
wavelengths such as 340 or 420, ± 0.5 nm. extensively for this purpose.
materials in this test method. Manufac-
3.15 photochromism, n.—a qualita- turers MUST be consulted on specific de-
tive designation for a reversible change in 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 34.3)
tails such as material safety data sheets
color of any kind (whether a change in and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
hue or chroma) which is immediately no- tions. All OSHA standards and rules Standards L2 through L9 (see 34.1, 34.4
ticeable upon termination of light expo- must also be consulted and followed. and 34.5).
sures when the exposed area of a speci- 4.1 Do not operate the test equipment
men is compared to the unexposed area. 6.2 L4 AATCC Blue Wool Standard of
until the manufacturer’s instructions have Fade for 20 AATCC Fading Units (AFU)
NOTE: The reversal of the color been read and understood. It is the opera-
change or instability of the hue or chroma (see 34.5).
tor’s responsibility to conform to the man- 6.3 L2 AATCC Blue Wool (alternate)
upon standing in the dark distinguishes ufacturer’s directions for safe operation.
photochromism from fading. Standard of Fade for 20 AATCC Fading
4.2 The test equipment contains high Units (AFU) (see 34.5).
3.16 pyranometer, n.—a radiometer intensity light sources. Do not look di-
used to measure the global solar irradi- 6.4 Gray Scale for Color Change
rectly at the light source. The door to the (AATCC EP1) (see 34.5).
ance or, if inclined, hemispherical solar test chamber must be kept closed when
irradiance. 6.5 Card stock: 163 g/m2 (90 lb) one
the equipment is in operation.
3.17 radiant power, n.—energy per ply, White Bristol Index
4.3 Before servicing light sources, al-
unit time emitted, transferred or received low 30 min for cool-down after lamp op- 6.6 Test masks made of material ap-
as radiation. eration is terminated. proaching zero light transmittance, and
3.18 radiant exposure, n.—time inte- 4.4 When servicing the test equipment, suitable for multiple exposure levels,
gral of irradiance, typically reported in shut off both the off switch and the main such as 10, 20, 40, etc. AFU
joules per square meter, J/m2. power disconnect switch. When 6.7 Black-Panel Thermometer (see 3.3,
3.19 radiometer, n.—an instrument equipped, ensure that the main power in- 34.2).
used to measure radiant energy. dicator light on the machine goes out. NOTE: The Black-Panel Thermometer
3.20 total irradiance, n.—radiant 4.5 Good laboratory practices should should not be confused with the Black
power integrated over all wavelengths at be followed. Standard Thermometer which is used in
a point in time expressed in watts per AATCC TM16.3, Test Method for Color-
square meter (W/m2). 5. Uses and Limitation fastness to Light: Xenon-Arc, Continu-
3.21 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant ous Light, Option 2, and some European
energy for which the wavelengths of the 5.1 Not all materials are affected test procedures. Temperatures as mea-
monochromatic components are smaller equally by the same light source and en- sured by the two different devices gener-
than those for visible radiation and more vironment. Results obtained using any ally will not agree at the same test condi-
than about 100 nm. one test option may not be representative tion. The term Black Thermometer, as
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range of those of any other test option or any used in this method, refers to either the
of ultraviolet radiation are not well de- end-use application unless a mathemati- Black Panel or Black Standard Ther-
fined and may vary according to the user. cal correlation for a given material and/or mometers.
Committee E.2.1.2 of the CIE distin- a given application has been established. 6.8 Spectrophotometer or Colorimeter
guishes in the spectral range between 400 Enclosed Carbon-Arc, Xenon-Arc and (see 33.2).

38 AATCC TM16.2-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

backed specimens in the frames supplied

Number of L7 Standards Exposed
Equivalent AATCC with the test apparatus. Ensure that front
Equal To But Not Lightfastness Fading Unit and back covers of the holders make
Less Than Greater Than More Than Class (AFU) good contact with the specimens and give
— 2 — L8 320 a sharp line of demarcation between the
3 — 2 L8-9 — exposed and unexposed areas without
— 3 — L8-9 480 compressing the specimen unnecessarily
4 — 3 L8-9 — (see 34.7 and 34.8). When required to
— 4 — L9 640 prevent raveling, the specimens may be
5 — 4 L9-10 — edged by sewing, pinking or fusing.
— 5 — L9-10 800 8.2.3 Yarns—Wind or fasten yarns on
6 — 5 L9-10 — frames of white card stock to a length of
— 6 — L9-10 960 approximately 150.0 mm (6.0 in.). Only
7 — 6 L9-10 — that portion of the yarns directly facing
— 7 — L9-10 11200 the radiant energy is evaluated for color
8 — 7 L9-10 — change. Wind the yarn on the frame
— 8 — L10 12800 closely packed to at least 25.0 mm (1.0
a
etc.a a
etc.a a
etc.a a
etc.a0 in.) width. The control specimen must
a
contain the same number of strands as the
A classification increase of 1 represents the interval when the equivalent AATCC Fading Units are doubled specimen subjected to exposure. After
from the previous whole number classification. Any test specimen for which the number of L7 Standards
fall between two whole number classifications is assigned both the lower and higher classification defining the exposure has been completed, bind
that interval. together those yarns facing the light

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.2-2022 39

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Relative applicable AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast- methods: daylight, carbon-arc lamp and
Humidity % 30 ± 5 ness Standard and assessment of the xenon-arc lamp. The terms clock hours
Filter type Borosilicate Standard after every 80-100 AATCC and machine hours are not valid reporting
Irradiance Not controlled Fading Units. Always expose reference methods.
Water requirements (Input) standards near the center position of the 12.2 Table I illustrates the number of
Type Demineralized, specimen rack adjacent to the black-panel AATCC Fading Units to produce a color
distilled or reverse temperature sensing unit. change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale
osmosis for Color Change (see 33.1) or instrumen-
Solids ppm Less than 17, prefer- 11. Verification by AATCC Blue Wool tally (see 33.3) on each of the AATCC
ably less than 8 Lightfastness Standards Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards.
pH 7±1 12.3 For instrumental color measure-
Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5ºC 11.1 Expose the L4 AATCC Blue ment, the colorimetric data are calculated
(61 ± 9ºF) Wool Lightfastness Standard at the speci- using CIE 1964 10° observer data for Il-
(See Appendix A.) Be sure that the tem- fied temperature, humidity and operating luminant D65. Express the color differ-
perature chosen is appropriate for the conditions 20 ± 2 continuous light-on op- ence in CIELAB units as directed in
type of Black Thermometer to be used erating hours. After exposure, assess the AATCC EP6.
(see 34.2). Fill the specimen rack with exposed standard specimen, either visu-
framed white card stock and the required ally or instrumentally. Increase or de- Machine Exposure Procedures
black thermometer unit. The white card crease the wattage of the lamps, the time
stock is used to simulate air flow in the of exposure, of both, and expose addi- 13. Machine Exposure, General
test chamber during the test exposure and tional standard specimens until the Conditions
should not include the actual test speci- change in color of the exposed standard
mens. Support the black thermometer meets one of the following criteria. 13.1 Specimen Mounting. Mount the
unit in the specimen drum or rack in the 11.1.1 Visual Comparison—equals the test material on the specimen rack. Make
same manner as the test specimen frames. change in color exhibited by the L4 Stan- sure that all materials are adequately sup-
Operate and control the test apparatus as dard of Fade applicable to the Lot desig- ported. Any displacement of the material
described above and further defined by nation used. toward or away from the source, even by
the manufacturer. Operate the test appa- 11.1.2 Instrumental Color Measure- a small distance, may lead to variation in
ratus in this mode and adjust the instrument—Lot designations of AATCC Blue fading between specimens (see 8.2).
mentation to provide the required black Wool Lightfastness Standard L4 equals When alternate light and dark cycles are
panel temperature, chamber air tempera- the CIELAB units of color change speci- required, begin exposure at the start of
ture and relative humidity. When exterior fied on the calibration certificate supplied the light cycle.
indicators are not available, read the with the standard as determined by 13.2 In the case of woven, knitted and
black thermometer unit through the win- AATCC EP6, Instrumental Color Mea- nonwoven fabrics, unless otherwise spec-
dow in the test chamber door. surement. ified, ensure that the side normally used

40 AATCC TM16.2-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
as the face is directly exposed to the radi- for Color Change, remove the specimens the manufacturer. Operate the test appa-
ant source. from the test chamber and mask (cover) ratus in this mode and adjust the instru-
13.3 Operate the test apparatus daily one-half of the exposed area and continue mentation to provide the required black
until the selected exposure has been com- the exposure until the test specimen ex- panel or black standard temperature,
pleted. Avoid unnecessary delays when hibits a color change equal to Step 3 on the chamber air temperature and relative hu-
interrupting the exposure period to Gray Scale for Color Change (see 34.11). midity. When exterior indicators are not
change filters, carbons or lamps, as such available, read the black thermometer
delays may contribute to variations in re- Option 2 unit through the window in the test cham-
sults or lead to errors. When available, Enclosed Carbon-Arc, ber door.
monitor exposure test chamber condi- Alternate Light and Dark 17.5 Verify using AATCC Blue Wool
tions with suitable recorders. If neces- Lightfastness Standards following the
sary, readjust the controls to maintain the Machine Operating Conditions guidelines in 19.1-19.2.2. If the fade of
specified test conditions. the L2 or L4 standards do not meet these
17. Preparation of Test Apparatus requirements follow the instrument man-
14. Machine Exposure to a Specified ufacturer’s instructions for calibration
17.1 Prior to running the test proce- and repeat the 20 AFU exposure with
Amount of Radiant Energy dure, verify machine operation by using fresh L2 or L4 standards. If the fade does
14.1 One-Step Method—Expose the the following test protocol. To enhance meet the requirements described in Sec-
test specimens and applicable standards the repeatability of test results, install test tion 19, remove the white card stock from
for 5, 10, 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC apparatus in a room where temperature the specimen rack and proceed.
Fading Units until the specimen has been and relative humidity are controlled in 17.6 For additional information to pre-
exposed to the desired amount of radiant accordance with the manufacturer’s rec- pare and operate the test apparatus refer
energy defined in terms of AATCC Fad- ommendations. to the manufacturer’s instructions and the
ing Units measured by simultaneous ex- 17.2 Check to see that the machine has following:
posure of the appropriate Blue Wool been calibrated and maintained within the 17.6.1 For Carbon-Arc use Test Standard
Standard(s). manufacturer’s recommended calibra- ASTM G151 and G153 (see 33.4 and 33.5).
14.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as tion schedule interval.
directed in 14.1, except double the expo- 17.3 Turn off all rack and specimen
18. Calibration, Verification and AATCC
sure area of the test specimens. After the spray units, if applicable.
Fading Unit Measurement
specimen has been exposed to the first 17.4 Set machine operating conditions
specified level of radiant energy, remove as follows: 18.1 Instrument Calibration—To en-
the specimens from the test chamber and Light source Enclosed carbon sure standardization and accuracy, the in-
mask (cover) one-half of the exposed Alternate light/dark struments associated with the exposure
area and continue the exposure for an ad- (light on/off) apparatus (that is, light monitor control
ditional 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC Black panel temperature system, Black Thermometers, chamber
Fading Units until the specimen has been Light cycle 63 ± 3ºC (145 ± 6ºF) air sensor, humidity control system, UV
exposed to the higher desired amount of Chamber air temperature sensors and radiometers) require periodic
radiant energy. Light cycle 43 ± 2ºC (110 ± 4ºF) calibration. Whenever possible, calibra-
NOTE: The two-step method is pre- Dark cycle 43 ± 2ºC (110 ± 4ºF) tion shall be traceable to national or inter-
ferred for the complete characterization Relative Humidity % national standards. Calibration schedule
of the lightfastness of a test specimen. Light cycle 35 ± 5 and procedure should be in accordance
Dark cycle 90 ± 5 with manufacturer’s instructions.
15. Machine Exposure using a Reference
Light cycle hours 18.1.1 The accuracy of machine opera-
Specimen
Light ON 3.8 tion must be verified by exposure of an
Light OFF 1.0 applicable AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast-
15.1 Expose the test specimen(s) and Filter type Borosilicate ness Standard and assessment of the
reference specimen(s) simultaneously to Irradiance Not controlled Standard after every 80-100 AATCC
the required end point in terms of Water requirements (Input) Fading Units. Always expose reference
AATCC Fading Units or reference speci- Type Demineralized, standards near the center position of the
men performance (that is, the reference distilled or reverse specimen rack adjacent to the black-panel
specimen shows a color change equal to osmosis temperature sensing unit.
Step 4 on the Gray Scale of Color Solids ppm Less than 17, prefer-
Change). ably less than 8 19. Calibration by AATCC Blue Wool
pH 7±1 Lightfastness Standards
16. Machine Exposure for Lightfastness Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5ºC
Classification (61 ± 9ºF) 19.1 Expose the L4 AATCC Blue
(See Appendix A.) Be sure that the tem- Wool Lightfastness Standard at the speci-
16.1 One-Step Method—Expose test perature chosen is appropriate for the fied temperature, humidity and selected
specimen(s) simultaneously with a series type of Black Thermometer to be used option for 20 ± 2 continuous light-on op-
of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness (see 34.2). Fill the specimen rack with erating hours. After exposure, assess the
Standards or determine the number of framed white card stock and the required exposed standard specimen, either visu-
AATCC Fading Units required to pro- black thermometer unit. The white card ally or instrumentally. Increase or de-
duce a color change in the test specimen stock is used to simulate air flow in the crease the wattage of the lamps, the time
equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for test chamber during the test exposure and of exposure, of both, and expose addi-
Color Change (see 34.11). should not include the actual test speci- tional standard specimens until the
16.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as mens. Support the black thermometer change in color of the exposed standard
directed in 16.1, except double the expo- unit in the specimen drum or rack in the meets one of the following criteria.
sure area of the test specimens. After the same manner as the test specimen frames. 19.1.1 Visual Comparison—equals the
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

specimen has been exposed to a color Operate and control the test apparatus as change in color exhibited by the L4 Stan-
change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale described above and further defined by dard of Fade applicable to the Lot desig-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.2-2022 41

19.2.1 Visual Comparison—equals the Condition in a dark room at standard con-

22. Machine Exposure to a Specified
change in color exhibited by the L2 Stan- ditions for testing textiles, as directed in
Amount of Radiant Energy
dard of Fade for 20 AFU applicable to the ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for
Lot designation used (see 34.5). 22.1 One-Step Method—Expose the Conditioning and Testing Textiles, [65 ±
19.2.2 Instrumental Color Measure- test specimens and applicable standards 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F)] for a
ment—The performance of the Blue for 5, 10, 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC minimum of 4 h before evaluation.
Wool lot designations of AATCC Blue Fading Units until the specimen has been
Wool Lightfastness Standard L2 and L4 exposed to the desired amount of radiant 26. Assessment of Color Change
must equal the CIELAB unit of color energy defined in terms of AATCC Fad-
ing Units measured by simultaneous ex- 26.1 Compare the exposed portion to
change specified on the calibration certif- the masked control or to an unexposed
icate supplied with the standard as deter- posure of the appropriate Blue Wool
Standard(s). original portion of the specimen (pre-
mined by AATCC EP6. ferred), as specified in a material specifi-
22.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as
directed in 22.1, except double the expo- cation or purchase order. Complete char-
20. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement by acterization of the lightfastness of a test
AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness sure area of the test specimens. After the
specimen has been exposed to the first specimen requires evaluation at more
Standards than one level of exposure. A difference
specified level of radiant energy, remove
the specimens from the test chamber and in color between unexposed material and
20.1 The use of AATCC Blue Wool
mask (cover) one-half of the exposed the masked portion of the exposed speci-
Lightfastness Standards and AATCC
area and continue the exposure for an ad- men indicates that the textile has been af-
Fading Units provides a common expo-
ditional 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC fected by some agent other than light, such
sure standard across the various exposure
Fading Units until the specimen has been as heat or a reactive gas in the atmosphere.
methods: daylight, carbon-arc lamp and
exposed to the higher desired amount of Although the exact cause of this difference
xenon-arc lamp. The terms clock hours
radiant energy. in color may not be known, it should be
and machine hours are not valid reporting
NOTE: The two-step method is pre- noted in the report when it occurs.
methods.
ferred for the complete characterization 26.2 Quantify the color change using
20.2 Table I illustrates the number of either AATCC EP1, Gray Scale for Color
AATCC Fading Units to produce a color of the lightfastness of a test specimen.
Change, or AATCC EP7, Instrumental
change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale Assessment of the Change in Color of a
for Color Change (see 33.1) or instrumen- 23. Machine Exposure using a Reference Test Specimen, at the specified exposure
tally (see 33.3) on each of the AATCC Specimen level whether in AATCC Fading Units or
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards. compared to a reference standard (see
20.3 For instrumental color measure- 23.1 Expose the test specimen(s) and
reference specimen(s) simultaneously to 34.11).
ment, the colorimetric data are calculated 26.3 Determine total color difference
using CIE 1964 10° observer data for Il- the required end point in terms of
AATCC Fading Units or reference speci- (ΔECIELAB) and the difference in lightness,
luminant D65. Express the color differ- chroma, and hue (ΔL*, ΔC*, ΔH*). Use
ence in CIELAB units as directed in men performance (that is, the reference
specimen shows a color change equal to instruments that provide values based on
AATCC EP6. the CIE 1976 equation using illuminant
Step 4 on the Gray Scale of Color
Change). D65 and 10° observer data. For instru-
Machine Exposure Procedures
ments with diffuse geometry, include the
21. Machine Exposure, General 24. Machine Exposure for Lightfastness specular component of reflectance in the
Conditions Classification measurements (refer to AATCC EP6).
21.1 Specimen Mounting. Mount the 24.1 One-Step Method—Expose test 27. Acceptance Based on Simultaneous
test material on the specimen rack. Make specimen(s) simultaneously with a series Exposure of a Reference Specimen
sure that all materials are adequately sup- of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
ported. Any displacement of the material Standards or determine the number of 27.1 Assess color change of the mate-
toward or away from the source, even by AATCC Fading Units required to pro- rial (not blue wool) as directed in Section

42 AATCC TM16.2-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
26 in terms of the agreed upon reference daylight exposures conducted during a 33.2 AATCC EP6, Evaluation Proce-
specimen. two-year period in both Arizona and dure for Instrumental Color Measurement
27.2 Assess the lightfastness of the ma- Southern Florida. In both studies, one (see 34.5).
terial as follows: laboratory conducted instrumental mea- 33.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce-
27.2.1 Satisfactory—If the test speci- surement of the color change for all ex- dure for Instrumental Assessment of the
men exhibits a color change equal to or posed specimens. Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see
less than the reference specimen at the 31.2 The interlaboratory studies were 34.5).
exposure level when the reference speci- under-taken, using eight different light- 33.4 ASTM G151, Standard Practice
men shows a color change equal to Step 4 fastness standard fabrics, to determine for Exposing Nonmetallic Materials in
on the Gray Scale for Color Change. the definition of 20 AATCC Fading Units Accelerated Test Devices that Use Labo-
27.2.2 Unsatisfactory—If the test spec- in terms of measured radiation. These ratory Light Sources (see 34.10).
imen exhibits a color change greater than studies showed that acceptable agreement 33.5 ASTM G153, Standard Practice
the reference specimen at the exposure between laboratories can be obtained for for Operating Enclosed Carbon-Arc Light
level when the reference specimen shows lightfastness testing providing the follow- Apparatus for Exposure of Nonmetallic
a color change equal to Step 4 on the ing variables are controlled: irradiance Materials (see 34.10).
Gray Scale for Color Change. level, black-panel temperature, ambient 33.6 ISO 9370 Plastics—Instrumental
27.3 Alternatively, buyer and seller temperature and relative humidity. Over- Determination of Radiant Exposure in
may make acceptance judgment based on all, there was less than 10% variability in Weathering Tests—General Guidance.
color difference as described in 26.3. the instrumentally determined color
change of specimens exposed in different 34. Notes
28. Classification Based on the AATCC laboratories. For all specimens tested the
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards standard deviation was equivalent to less 34.1 Historically, AATCC Blue Wool
(Note 34.12) than one-half step on the Gray Scale for Lightfastness Standards, except L2, were spe-
Color Change. As a result of these tests, cially prepared by blending varying propor-
20 AATCC Fading Units was established tions of wool dyed with a very fugitive
29. Classification above L7 AATCC Blue dyestuff, Erio Chrome Azurole B (C.I. 43830)
Wool Lightfastness Standard (See at 85 kJ/(m2nm) when measured at and wool dyed with a fast dyestuff, Indigosol
34.13) 420 nm (approximately 21.5 continuous Blue AGG (C.I. 73801). Each resultant higher
light–on operating hr) when tested at the numbered standard is twice as colorfast as the
conditions specified for Xenon-Arc preceding numbered standard. AATCC Blue
30. Report (see Table IV) Lamp, Continuous Light, Option 3. Wool Lightfastness Standards and the ISO
30.1 Reporting at the minimum should 31.3 For the daylight studies, 16 differ- numbered Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards
include the following information: ent fabrics, in addition to AATCC and (as used in ISO 105-B01) produce different
ISO Blue Wool Lightfastness standard ratings and therefore cannot be used inter-
a) Operator’s name and test date changeably. Lots 8 and 9 of the L2 AATCC
b) Specimen identification fabrics, were exposed. An exposure se-
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard were batch
c) Colorfastness to light rating/Light ries was begun each quarter year at two dyed. L2 can be used to measure 5 or 20 AFU
classification locations over a two-year period. Expo- exposures, producing two distinct fading end-
d) Acceptance compared to reference sures were terminated based on instru- points. L2 Standards of Fade for 5 AFU and
specimen or masked area (Yes/No) mental measurement of radiant energy 20 AFU are available (see 34.5).
e) Colorfastness to light rating deter- dosage. A wide variation in climatic con- 34.2 Black Thermometers are used to con-
mined by Gray Scale or Instrumentally ditions was encountered during the test trol an artificial weathering device and to pro-
f) Classification method period. The data obtained clearly shows vide an estimate of the maximum temperature
that the color change of individual speci- of specimens exposed to a radiant energy
g) Reference standard source. There are two types of Black Ther-
h) Temperature ambient (dry bulb) ºC, mens is affected differently by variations
mometers. One type is referred to as a “Black
black panel ºC or black standard ºC in temperature, humidity, atmospheric Panel Thermometer” which is uninsulated and
i) Exposure controlled by: AATCC contaminants, etc.; however, the single is made of metal. The other type is referred to
Blue Wool, radiant energy or other most significant variable is radiation. The as a “Black Standard Thermometer” which is
j) Total radiant energy variation in color change resulting from insulated and is made of metal with a plastic
k) Type of apparatus, model no., serial exposure during different years, loca- backing. As a point of information, some ISO
no., manufacturer, specimen rack (in- tions, and seasons, averaged ± 30%. specifications specify the use of a “Black
clined, 2-tier, 3-tier or horizontal) and 31.4 A more detailed summary of these Standard Thermometer.” Typically, Black
test results was presented to the 14th Standard Thermometers indicate higher tem-
type of water supply peratures than Black Panel Thermometers un-
l) Option employed meeting of ISO, Technical Committee
der the same exposure conditions.
m) Elapsed exposures time 38, Subcommittee 1 as Document 38/1 N The Black Thermometer units indicate the
n) Mounting procedure (backed or un- 993, USA Report on Monitoring of Radi- absorbed irradiance minus the heat dissipated
backed) ation during Lightfastness Testing. by conduction and convection. Keep the black
o) Deviations from AATCC TM16.2 face of these thermometer units in good condi-
or the performance of the reference stan- 32. Bias tion. Follow the manufacturer’s recommenda-
dard, if any. tions for proper care and maintenance of
32.1 The colorfastness to natural and Black Thermometers.
artificial light can be defined only in 34.2.1 For Black Panel Thermometers:
Precision and Bias terms of a test method. There is no inde- Testing temperature is measured and regulated
pendent method for determining the true by a Black Panel Thermometer unit mounted
31. Precision
value. As a means of estimating this on the specimen rack to permit the face of it to
31.1 Test Summary—Committee receive the same exposure as the test speci-
property, the method has no known bias. men. Black Panel Thermometers shall consist
RA50 has conducted extensive studies to
of a metal panel at least 70 mm × 150 mm
evaluate the use of radiation monitoring 33. References whose temperature is measured with a ther-
devices to terminate exposures in light- mometer or thermocouple whose sensitive
fastness testing. Data has been collected 33.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- portion is located in the center of and in good
in interlaboratory studies using controlled dure for Gray Scale for Color Change thermal contact with the panel. The side of the
irradiance, xenon-arc equipment and in (see 34.5). panel facing the light source shall be black

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM16.2-2022 43
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Reporting Form
Operator’s Name ___________________________________________________________________________________ Date___________________________

Sample Identification _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Material Exposed: Face Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating_ Lightfastness Classification

Acceptance Compared to Reference Sample (Yes/No)_____________________________________

Test Specimen Compared To: Masked Portion ___________________________________

Unmasked Portion__ Unexposed Original _

Colorfastness to Light Rating determined by:

Gray Scale for Color Change __________________________________________

Instrumentally, Name Type __________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Classification Method_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Reference Standard__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Temperature Controlled By: Ambient (Dry Bulb) _____________________________________ °C

Black Panel __ °C Black Standard _ °C

Exposure Controlled By: AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards _______________________________________

Radiant Energy __ Other

Total Radiant Energy __________________________________

Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________________________________ Model No.

Serial No. Manufacturer’s Name_______________________________________

Specimen Rack: Inclined ___________________ 2-Tier ____________________ 3-Tier ____________________ Horizontal ________________________

Type of Water Supply_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Option Employed _______ Elapsed Exposure Time

Mounting Procedure: Backed Unbacked_

Sample Rotation Schedule % Relative Humidity__

For Daylight Behind Glass, report the following:

Geographical Location________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Exposure Dates: From ____ To _

Exposure Latitude __ Exposure Angle _

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ___ If Yes, Specify Type_

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Daily Black Panel Temperature: Minimum __________°C Maximum __________°C Avg. __________°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum Maximum Avg. __

Hours of Wetness: Rain ___________ Rain and Dew

44 AATCC TM16.2-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
with a reflectance of less than 10% throughout fluence the performance of the material. 35. History
the spectrum of light source reaching the spec- Frames shall conform to the curvature of the
imen; the side of the panel not facing the light specimen rack. The size of the frame is deter- 35.1 Revised and added History Section in
source shall be open to the atmosphere within mined by the type specimens required for indi- 2022.
the exposure chamber. vidual property requirements. 35.2 Editorially revised in 2019, 2016; re-
34.2.2 For Black Standard Thermometers: 34.9 In Table A1, the data are for a typical vised 2014 (supersedes AATCC TM16-2004),
Testing temperature is measured and regulated spectral irradiance for an enclosed carbon-arc 2012; editorially revised 2009; revised 2004,
by a black standard thermometer unit mounted with a borosilicate glass globe. The daylight 2003; reaffirmed 1998; editorially revised
on the specimen rack to permit the face of it to data are for global irradiance on a horizontal 1996, 1995; revised 1993 (supersedes AATCC
receive the same exposure as the test speci- surface with an air mass of 1.2, column ozone TM16-1987, TM16A-1988, TM16C-1988,
men. The Black Standard Thermometer shall 0.294 atm cm, 30% relative humidity, altitude TM16D-1988, TM16E-1987, TM16F-1988
consist of a plane of stainless steel plate mea- 2100 m (atmospheric pressure of 787.8 mb), and TM16G-1985); revised 1990; editorially
suring 70 mm × 40 mm with a thickness of and an aerosol represented by an optical thick- revised 1986, 1984, 1983; revised 1982, 1981,
about 0.5 mm, whose temperature is measured ness of 0.081 at 300 nm and 0.62 at 400 nm. 1978; reaffirmed 1977; revised 1974, 1971.
by a thermal resistor, with good heat-conduct- Data from 701-800 nm is not shown. 35.3 Developed in 1964 by AATCC Com-
ing properties, fitted to the reverse side. The mittee RA50.
The following references provide back-
metal plate is fixed to a plastic plate so that it ground information on radiation measure-
is thermally insulated. The side of the panel ments by Light Control Systems:
facing the light source shall be black with a re- Appendix A
flectance of less than 5% throughout the spec- 34.9.1 Handbook of Chemistry & Physics, Enclosed Carbon-Arc
trum of light reaching the specimen. 61st Edition, 1980, edited by Robert C. Weast; Lamp Fading Apparatus
34.3 For potential equipment information The Chemical Rubber Co., Cleveland OH.
pertaining to this test method, please visit 34.9.2 International Commission on Illumi- A. Enclosed Carbon-Arc Lamp Fading
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. nation (CIE) Publication No. 20, 1972. Apparatus
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 34.9.3 Atlas Sun Spots, Vol. 4, No 9, Spring
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 1975, Atlas Material Testing Technology A1 Different types of carbon-arc test
corporate members, but AATCC does not LLC, Chicago, IL. apparatus may be utilized. The design of
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 34.10 Available from ASTM International, the test chamber may vary, but it should
tify that any of the listed equipment or 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA be constructed from corrosion resistant
materials meets the requirements in its test 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. material, and in addition to the radiant
methods. 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
34.4 More uniform and reproducible fading
source, may provide for means of con-
34.11 An automated electronic grading sys- trolling temperature and relative humidity.
of the AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan- tem may be used as long as the system has
dards and test specimens is achieved when A1.1 Laboratory Light Source—En-
been demonstrated to provide results that are
backed with white cardboard. The color dif- equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
closed carbon-arc light sources typically
ference values in the initial determination of ity and reproducibility than an experienced use carbon rods which contain a mixture
the end point for the AATCC Blue Wool grader performing visual evaluations. of metal salts. An electric current is
Lightfastness Standards were determined from passed between the carbon rods which
exposures with such backing. Although toler- 34.12 Classification Based on the AATCC
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards burn and give off ultraviolet, visible and
ances are given for the AATCC Blue Wool infrared radiation. Use carbon rods rec-
Lightfastness Standards, every effort should 34.12.1 One Step Exposure—Classify
be made to achieve the midpoint value given lightfastness of the material by: ommended by the device manufacturer.
for these standards. For referee purposes, the (a) comparison of the color change of the A1.2 Filter—The most commonly used
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards will be ex- test specimen to that of a simultaneously ex- filters are borosilicate glass globes which
posed in multiples of three and the average posed series of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast- fit around the carbon burners.
color change must equal the CIELAB unit of ness Standards (see Table II), or A1.3 The emission spectra of the en-
color change specified on the calibration cer- (b) determination of the number of AATCC closed carbon-arc shows strong emission
tificate supplied with the applicable standard Fading Units required to produce a color in the long wavelength ultraviolet region.
as determined by AATCC EP6 (see 34.5). change in the test specimen equal to Step 4 of Emissions in the visible, infrared and
34.5 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box the Gray Scale for Color Change (see Table I). short wavelength ultraviolet below 350
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 34.12.2 Two Step Exposure—Classify nm are generally weaker than in daylight
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; web lightfastness of the material by:
site: www.aatcc.org; e-mail: ordering@aatcc. behind window glass (see Table A1). The
org. (a) determination of the number of AATCC enclosed carbon-arc does not provide a
Fading Units required to produce color good match to natural daylight.
34.6 Refer to ASTM G151 and G153 for
changes in the test specimen equal to both a A1.3.1 Spectral Irradiance for En-
guidance on design and performance require-
Step 4 and Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Color closed Carbon-Arc with Borosilicate Fil-
ments for instruments specified in this
Change (see Table I).
method. Further guidance is found in Appen- ters—Table A1 is representative of the
dix A. Consult the AATCC Buyer’s Guide for 34.12.3 Assign both classifications: the
potential equipment information. Step 3 level appears first, followed by the Step
34.7 Pile fabric, such as carpets, which have 4 level in parentheses. For example, a L5(4)
fibers that may shift position, or texture which classification would illustrate a L5 classifica-
may make evaluations in small areas difficult tion at Step 3 color change and a L4 classifica- Table A1—Typical Spectral Irradiance
should be tested with an exposed area of not tion at Step 4 color change. When only one Distribution for Enclosed Carbon-Arc with
less than approximately 40.0 × 50.0 mm (1.6 × classification number is assigned, it shall rep- Borosilicate Filters. Ultraviolet Wavelength
2.0 in.). Expose sufficient size or multiple spec- resent the number of AATCC Fading Units to Region Irradiance as a Percentage of Total
imens to include all colors in the specimen. produce a Step 4 color change. Irradiance from 300-400 nm
34.8 Specimen frames must be made of 34.13 Classification above L7 AATCC
stainless steel, aluminum, or suitably coated Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard Enclosed
steel to avoid contaminating the specimens 34.13.1 Using Table III, classify lightfast- Carbon-Arc
with metallic impurities that might catalyze or ness above the L7 AATCC Blue Wool Light- with
inhibit the degradation. When specimens are fastness Standard according to the total Borosilicate
fastened with staples, they should be of the number of consecutive L7 standards exposed Bandpass (nm) Filters Sunlight
nonferrous type overcoated to avoid contami- to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color Change
nation of the specimen by corrosion products. during the exposure cycle that is required to 290-320 20.0% 5.6%
Metal frames must have a dull finish and be produce a Step 4 color change n the test speci- 320-360 20.5% 40.2%
designed to avoid reflectances that could in- men, and Table III. 360-400 79.5% 54.2%

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM16.2-2022 45
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
spectral irradiance received by a test of thermometer used, the method of midity. Such instruments shall be
specimen mounted in the specimen plane. mounting on specimen holder, and the shielded from the light source.
A1.4 See 34.9 for additional information. exposure temperature shall be stated in A1.7 Apparatus Maintenance—The test
A1.5 Thermometer—A Black Panel or the test report. apparatus requires periodic maintenance
Black Standard Thermometer may be A1.6 Relative Humidity—The test to maintain uniform exposure conditions.
used and shall conform to the descrip- chamber may be equipped with a means Perform required maintenance in accor-
tions found in 34.2.1 and 34.2.2. The type to measure and control the relative hu- dance with manufacturer’s instructions.

Appendix B
Flow Chart for AATCC TM16.2, Carbon-Arc
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

46 AATCC TM16.2-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc

1. Purpose and Scope to the masked control portion of the test and can be used to measure irradiance at
specimen or unexposed original material wavelengths such as 300-400 nm or 300-
1.1 This test method provides the gen- using the Gray Scale for Color Change, 800 nm.
eral principles and procedures for deter- or by instrumental color measurement. 3.6 color change, n.—as used in col-
mining the colorfastness to light of textile Lightfastness classification is accom- orfastness testing, a change in color of
materials. The test options described are plished by evaluation versus a simulta- any kind whether a change in lightness,
applicable to textile materials of all kinds neously exposed series of AATCC Blue hue or chroma or any combination of
and for colorants, finishes and treatments Wool Lightfastness Standards. these, discernible by comparing the test
applied to textile materials. Test options specimen with a corresponding untested
included are: specimen.
1—Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternate Light 3. Terminology
3.7 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of
and Dark a material to change in any of its color
2—Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous 3.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
Standard, n.—one of a group of dyed characteristics, to transfer of its colo-
Light, Black Standard Option rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both as a
3—Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for
use in determining the amount of light result of exposure of the material to any
Light, Black Panel Option environment that might be encountered
1.2 The use of these test options does exposure of specimens during lightfast-
ness testing (see 44.1). during the processing, testing, storage or
not imply, expressly or otherwise, an ac- use of the material.
celerated test for a specific application. 3.2 AATCC Fading Unit (AFU), n.—
a specific amount of exposure made un- 3.8 colorfastness to light, n.—the re-
The relationship between any lightfast- sistance of a material to a change in its
ness test and the actual exposure in use der the conditions specified in various
test methods where one AFU is one- color characteristics as a result of expo-
must be determined and agreed upon by sure of the material to sunlight or an arti-
the contractual parties. twentieth (1/20) of the light-on exposure
required to produce a color change equal ficial light source.
1.3 This test method contains the follow-
to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color 3.9 infrared radiation, n.—radiant
ing sections that assist in the use and im-
Change or 1.7 ± 0.3 CIELAB units of energy for which the wavelengths of the
plementation of the various options for de-
color difference on AATCC Blue Wool monochromatic components are greater
termining lightfastness of textile materials.
Lightfastness Standard L4. than those for visible radiation and less
Section 3.3 black-panel thermometer, n.—a than about 1 mm.
Principle................................. 2 temperature measuring device, the sens- NOTE: The limits of the spectral range
Terminology........................... 3 ing unit of which is coated with black of infrared radiation are not well defined
Safety Precautions ................. 4 paint designed to absorb most of the radi- and may vary according to the user.
Uses and Limitation............... 5 ant energy encountered in lightfastness Committee E-2.1.2 of the CIE distin-
Apparatus and Materials........ 6 testing (see 44.2). guishes in the spectral range between 780
Comparison Standards........... 7 3.3.1 This device provides an estima- nm and 1mm:
Test Specimen Preparation .... 8 tion of the maximum temperature a spec- IR-A 780-1400 nm
Machine Operating Condition 9, 18, 26 imen may attain during exposure to artifi- IR-B 1.4-3.0 µm
Calibration and Verification .. 10-11, cial light. Any deviation from the IR-C 3 µm to 1 mm
19-20, geometry of this device described in 44.2 3.10 irradiance, n.—radiant power per
27-28 may have an influence on the measured unit area incident on a receiver, typically
AATCC Fading Unit temperature. reported in watts per square meter (W/
Measurement...................... 12-13, 3.4 black standard thermometer, m2).
21, 29-30 n.—a temperature measuring device, the 3.11 “L” designation, n.—the se-
Machine Exposure ................. 14-17, sensing unit of which is coated with black quence number given each AATCC Blue
Procedures 22-25, material designed to absorb most of the Wool Lightfastness Standard according
31-34 radiant energy encountered in lightfast- to the number of AATCC Fading Units
Evaluation of Results............. 35-39 ness testing and is thermally insulated by required to produce a color change equal
Report .................................... 40 means of a plastic plate (see 44.2). to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color
Precision and Bias ................. 41-42 3.4.1 This device provides an estima- Change.
References.............................. 43 tion of the maximum temperature a spec- NOTE: See Table I for the numerical
Notes ...................................... 44 imen may attain during exposure to artifi- relationship between “L” designations of
Appendix................................ A cial light. Any deviation from the the standards and their colorfastness to
Appendix................................ B geometry of the device described in 44.2 light in AFUs. The colorfastness to light
may have an influence on the measured of a fabric specimen can be determined
2. Principle temperature. The temperature measured by comparing its color change after light
by the black standard thermometer will exposure with that of the most similar
2.1 Specimens of the textile material to not be the same as that measured by the AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan-
be tested and the agreed upon comparison black-panel thermometer; therefore, they dard as shown in Table II.
standard(s) are exposed simultaneously cannot be used interchangeably. 3.12 langley, n.—a unit of total solar
to a light source under specified condi- 3.5 broad bandpass radiometer, n.— radiation equivalent to one gram calorie
tions. The colorfastness to light of the a relative term applied to radiometers that per square centimeter of irradiated sur-
specimen is evaluated by comparison of have a bandpass width of more than 20 face.
the color change of the exposed portion nm at 50% of maximum transmittance NOTE: The internationally recom-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM16.3-2020 47
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
mended units are: Joule (J) for quantity of ative to lightfastness used in this test 5.2 Results from Xenon-Arc, for all
radiant energy, watt (W) for quantity of method, refer to AATCC M11. materials should be in good agreement
radiant power, and meter squared (m2) for with the results obtained in Daylight Be-
area. The following factors are to be 4. Safety Precautions hind Glass (see Table I). Since the spec-
used: 1 langley = 1 cal/cm2; 1 cal/cm2 = tral distribution of Xenon-Arc, Alternate
4.184 J/cm2 or 41840 J/m2. NOTE: These safety precautions are Light and Dark, equipped with the speci-
3.13 lightfastness, n.—the property of for information purposes only. The pre- fied filter glass is very close to that of av-
a material, usually an assigned number, cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- erage or typical daylight behind window
depicting a ranked change in its color dures and are not intended to be all inclu- glass, it is expected that results should be
characteristics as a result of exposure of sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use in good agreement with the results ob-
the material to sunlight or an artificial safe and proper techniques in handling tained in Daylight, Daylight Behind
light source. materials in this test method. Manufac- Glass.
3.14 narrow bandpass radiometer, turers MUST be consulted on specific de- 5.3 When using this test method, the
n.—a relative term applied to radiometers tails such as material safety data sheets test method option selected should incor-
that have a bandpass width of 20 nm or and other manufacturer’s recommenda- porate light, humidity, and heat effects
less at 50% of maximum transmittance tions. All OSHA standards and rules based upon historical data and experi-
and can be used to measure irradiance at must also be consulted and followed. ence. The test method option selected
wavelengths such as 340 or 420, ± 0.5 4.1 Do not operate the test equipment should also reflect expected end-use con-
nm. until the manufacturer’s instructions have ditions associated with the material to be
3.15 photochromism, n.—a qualita- been read and understood. It is the opera- tested.
tive designation for a reversible change in tor’s responsibility to conform to the 5.4 When using this test method, use a
color of any kind (whether a change in manufacturer’s directions for safe opera- standard of comparison which has a
hue or chroma) which is immediately no- tion. known change in lightfastness after a spe-
ticeable upon termination of light expo- 4.2 The test equipment contains high cific exposure for comparison to the ma-
sures when the exposed area of a speci- intensity light sources. Do not look di- terial to be tested. AATCC Blue Wool
men is compared to the unexposed area. rectly at the light source. The door to the Lightfastness Standards have been used
NOTE: The reversal of the color test chamber must be kept closed when extensively for this purpose.
change or instability of the hue or chroma the equipment is in operation.
upon standing in the dark distinguishes 4.3 Before servicing light sources, al- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 44.3)
photochromism from fading. low 30 min for cool-down after lamp op-
3.16 pyranometer, n.—a radiometer eration is terminated. 6.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
used to measure the global solar irradi- Standards L2 through L9 (see 44.1, 44.4
4.4 When servicing the test equipment, and 44.5).
ance or, if inclined, hemispherical solar shut off both the off switch and the main
irradiance. 6.2 L4 AATCC Blue Wool Standard of
power disconnect switch. When Fade for 20 AATCC Fading Units (AFU)
3.17 radiant power, n.—energy per equipped, ensure that the main power in-
unit time emitted, transferred or received (see 44.5).
dicator light on the machine goes out.
as radiation. 6.3 L2 AATCC Blue Wool (alternate)
4.5 Good laboratory practices should Standard of Fade for 20 AATCC Fading
3.18 radiometer, n.—an instrument be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
used to measure radiant energy. Units (AFU) (see 11.2, 44.5).
laboratory areas. 6.4 Gray Scale for Color Change
3.19 total irradiance, n.—radiant
(AATCC EP1) (see 44.5).
power integrated over all wavelengths at
a point in time expressed in watts per
5. Uses and Limitation 6.5 Card stock: 163 g/m2 (90 lb) one
ply, White Bristol Index.
square meter (W/m2). 5.1 Not all materials are affected 6.6 Test masks made of material ap-
3.20 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant equally by the same light source and en- proaching zero light transmittance, and
energy for which the wavelengths of the vironment. Results obtained by the use of
monochromatic components are smaller any one test option may not be represen-
than those for visible radiation and more tative of those of any other test option or
than about 100 nm. any end-use application unless a mathe- Table I—AATCC Fading Unit and
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range matical correlation for a given material Light Exposure Equivalents for
of ultraviolet radiation are not well de- and/or a given application has been estab- AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
fined and may vary according to the user. lished. Enclosed Carbon-Arc, Xenon-Arc Standards (see Section 41)a
Committee E.2.1.2 of the CIE distin- and Daylight have been extensively used
guishes in the spectral range between 400 in the trade for acceptance testing of tex- AATCC
and 100 nm: tile materials. There may be a distinct dif- Blue Wool AATCC Xenon Only Xenon Only
UV-A 315-400 nm ference in spectral power distribution, air Lightfastness Fading kJ/(m2 nm) kJ/(m2 nm)
temperature and humidity sensor loca- Standard Units @ 420 nm 300-400 nm
UV-B 280-315 nm
UV-C 100-280 nm tions, and test chamber size between test L2 5 21 864
equipment supplied by different manu- L3 10 43 1728
3.21 visible radiation, n.—any radiant facturers that can result in differences in L4 20 85b 3456
energy capable of causing a visual sensa- reported test results. Consequently, data L5 40 170 6912
tion. obtained from equipment supplied by the L6 80 b
340b 13824
NOTE The limits of the spectral range different manufacturers, different test L7 160 680 27648
of visible radiation are not well defined L8 320 1360 55296
chamber size, or different light source L9 640 2720 1105920
and may vary according to the user. The and filter combinations cannot be used
lower limit is generally taken between interchangeably, unless a mathematical a
380 and 400 nm and the upper limit be- For color change of Step 4 on the Gray Scale for
correlation has been established. No cor- Color Change.
tween 760 and 780 nm (1 nanometer, 1 relations among differently constructed b
Verified by experiment using Daylight Behind
nm = 10–9 m). test apparatus are known to AATCC Glass and Xenon-Arc, Continuous Light. All
3.22 For definitions of other terms rel- Committee RA50. other values are calculated (see Section 41).

48 AATCC TM16.3-2020 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
suitable for multiple exposure levels, follows: Light source Xenon
such as 10, 20, 40, etc. AFU. 8.2.1 Specimen Backing—For all op- Alternate light/dark
6.7 Black-Panel Thermometer (see 3.3, tions, if the specimens do not have an in- (Light ON/OFF)
44.2). tegrated backing mount the specimens Black Standard
6.8 Black Standard Thermometer (see and standards on white card stock. The temperature 70 ± 1ºC (158 ± 2ºF)
3.4, 44.2). card stock shall be white, non-reflecting Chamber air temperature
NOTE: The Black-Panel Thermometer cardboard. Consult the AATCC Buyer’s Light cycle 43 ± 2ºC (110 ± 4ºF)
should not be confused with the Black Guide (www.aatcc.org/bg) for informa-
Dark cycle 43 ± 2ºC (110 ± 4ºF)
Standard Thermometer. Temperatures as tion. When mounted test specimens are
masked, use test masks approaching zero Relative Humidity %
measured by the two different devices
generally will not agree at the same test light transmittance Light cycle 35 ± 5
condition. The term Black Thermometer, 8.2.2 Fabric—Cut swatches of fabric Dark cycle 90 ± 5
as used in this method, refers to either the with the long direction parallel to the ma- Light cycle hours
Black Panel or Black Standard Ther- chine (warp) direction, at least 70.0 × Light – ON 3.8
mometers. 120.0 mm (2.75 × 4.7 in.) with the ex- Light – OFF 1.0
6.9 Spectrophotometer or Colorimeter posed area measuring not less than 30.0 × Filter type See A3.3
(see 43.2). 30.0 mm (1.2 × 1.2 in.). Secure the Irradiance
6.10 Xenon-Arc Lamp Fading Appara- backed specimens in the frames supplied W/m²/nm (at 420 nm) 1.10 ± 0.03
tus optionally equipped with light moni- with the test apparatus. Ensure that front W/m² at (300-400nm) 48 ± 1
tors and control systems (see Appendix A and back covers of the holders make
Water requirements (Input)
and 44.6). good contact with the specimens and give
a sharp line of demarcation between the Type Demineralized,
exposed and unexposed areas without distilled or reverse
7. Comparison Standards compressing the specimen unnecessarily osmosis
(see 44.7 and 44.8). When required to Solids ppm Less than 17, prefer-
7.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness prevent raveling, the specimens may be ably less than 8
Standards, as defined in Method 16.3, are edged by sewing, pinking or fusing. pH 7±1
preferred for all options. However, the
8.2.3 Yarns—Wind or fasten yarns on Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5ºC
rate of fade of any AATCC Blue Wool
frames of white card stock to a length of (61 ± 9ºF)
Lightfastness Standard by one test option
approximately 150.0 mm (6.0 in.). Only
may not agree with that of other test op- (see Appendix A.) Be sure that the tem-
that portion of the yarns directly facing
tions. perature chosen is appropriate for the
the radiant energy is evaluated for color
7.2 The reference standard can be any change. Wind the yarn on the frame type of Black Thermometer to be used
suitable textile material where a history closely packed to at least 25.0 mm (1.0 (see 44.2). Fill the specimen rack with
of the rate of color change is known. Ref- in.) width. The control specimen must framed white card stock and the required
erence standards for comparison must be contain the same number of strands as the black thermometer unit. The white card
determined and agreed upon by the con- specimen subjected to exposure. After stock is used to simulate air flow in the
tractual parties. Standards must be ex- the exposure has been completed, bind test chamber during the test exposure and
posed simultaneously with the test speci- together those yarns facing the light should not include the actual test speci-
men. The use of the standard assists in source using 20.0 mm (0.75 in.) masking mens. Support the black thermometer
determining time-to-time equipment and or other suitable tape to keep the yarns unit in the specimen drum or rack in the
test procedure variations. If test results of closely packed on the exposure frame for same manner as the test specimen frames.
the exposed standards differ by more than evaluation (see 44.8). Operate and control the test apparatus as
10% from the known standard data, thor- described above and further defined by
oughly review the test equipment operating the manufacturer. Operate the test appa-
conditions, and correct any malfunctions Option 1 ratus in this mode and adjust the instru-
or defective parts. Then, repeat the test. Xenon-Arc Lamp, mentation to provide the required black
Alternate Light and Dark panel or black standard temperature, cham-
ber air temperature and relative humidity.
8. Test Specimen Preparation
Machine Operating Conditions When exterior indicators are not available,
8.1 Number of Specimens—For accep- read the black thermometer unit through
tance testing, use at least three replicate 9. Preparation of Test Apparatus the window in the test chamber door.
specimens of both the material to be 9.5 Verify using AATCC Blue Wool
tested and the standard for comparison to 9.1 Prior to running the test procedure, Lightfastness Standards following the
ensure accuracy unless otherwise agreed verify machine operation by using the guidelines in 11.1-11.2.2. If the fade of
upon between the purchaser and the sup- following test protocol. To enhance the the L2 or L4 standards do not meet these
plier. repeatability of test results, install test ap- requirements follow the instrument man-
8.2 Specimen Cutting and Mounting— paratus in a room where temperature and ufacturer’s instructions for calibration
Identify each specimen using a label re- relative humidity are controlled in accor- and repeat the 20 AFU exposure with
sistant to the environment encountered dance with the manufacturer’s recom- fresh L2 or L4 standards. If the fade does
during the test. Mount in frames such that mendations. meet the requirements described in Sec-
the surface of the test specimen and the 9.2 Check to see that the machine has tion 11, remove the white card stock from
reference specimen are the same distance been calibrated and maintained within the the specimen rack and proceed.
from the light source. Use covers that manufacturer’s recommended calibra- 9.6 For additional information to pre-
avoid specimen surface compression, tion schedule interval. pare and operate the test apparatus refer
particularly when testing pile fabrics. The 9.3 Turn off all rack and specimen to the manufacturer’s instructions and the
test specimen and the reference standards spray units, if applicable. following:
shall be of equal size and shape. Cut and 9.4 Set machine operating conditions 9.6.1 Test Standard ASTM G151 and
prepare test specimens for exposure as as follows: G155 (see 43.4 and 43.5).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM16.3-2020 49
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10. Calibration, Verification and AATCC 11.2.2 Instrumental Color Measure- 14.3 Operate the test apparatus on a
Fading Unit Measurement ment—The performance of the Blue daily basis until the selected exposure has
Wool lot designations of AATCC Blue been completed. Avoid unnecessary de-
10.1 Instrument Calibration—To en- Wool Lightfastness Standard L2 and L4 lays when interrupting the exposure pe-
sure standardization and accuracy, the in- must equal the CIELAB unit of color riod to change filters, carbons or lamps,
struments associated with the exposure change specified on the calibration certif- as such delays may contribute to varia-
apparatus (that is, light monitor control icate supplied with the standard as deter- tions in results or lead to errors. When
system, Black Thermometers, chamber mined by AATCC EP6. available, monitor exposure test chamber
air sensor, humidity control system, UV conditions with suitable recorders. If
sensors and radiometers) require periodic necessary, readjust the controls to main-
calibration. Whenever possible, calibra- 12. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement by
AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness tain the specified test conditions.
tion shall be traceable to national or inter-
national standards. Calibration schedule Standards
and procedure should be in accordance 15. Machine Exposure to a Specified
12.1 The use of AATCC Blue Wool Amount of Radiant Energy
with manufacturer’s instructions. Lightfastness Standards and AATCC
10.1.1 The accuracy of machine opera- Fading Units provides a common expo- 15.1 One-Step Method—Expose the
tion must be verified by exposure of an sure standard across the various exposure test specimens and applicable standards
applicable AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast- methods: daylight, carbon-arc lamp and for 5, 10, 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC
ness Standard and assessment of the xenon-arc lamp. The terms clock hours Fading Units until the specimen has been
Standard after every 80-100 AATCC and machine hours are not valid reporting exposed to the desired amount of radiant
Fading Units. Always expose reference methods. energy defined in terms of AATCC Fad-
standards near the center position of the 12.2 Table I illustrates the number of ing Units measured by simultaneous ex-
specimen rack adjacent to the black-panel AATCC Fading Units to produce a color posure of the appropriate Blue Wool
temperature sensing unit. change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale Standard(s).
for Color Change (see 43.1) or instrumen- 15.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as
11. Verification by AATCC Blue Wool tally (see 43.3) on each of the AATCC directed in 15.1, except double the expo-
Lightfastness Standards Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards. sure area of the test specimens. After the
12.3 For instrumental color measure- specimen has been exposed to the first
11.1 Expose the L4 AATCC Blue ment, the colorimetric data are calculated specified level of radiant energy, remove
Wool Lightfastness Standard at the speci- using CIE 1964 10° observer data for Il- the specimens from the test chamber and
fied temperature, humidity and operating luminant D65. Express the color differ- mask (cover) one-half of the exposed
conditions for 20 ± 2 continuous light-on ence in CIELAB units as directed in area and continue the exposure for an ad-
operating hours. After exposure, assess AATCC EP6. ditional 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC
the exposed standard specimen, either vi- Fading Units until the specimen has been
NOTE: For Xenon-Arc, Alternating
sually or instrumentally. Increase or de- exposed to the higher desired amount of
Light and Dark, Option 1, although cali-
crease the wattage of the lamps, the time radiant energy.
bration is conducted using continuous
of exposure, of both, and expose addi- 15.3 In those machines equipped with
light-on operating hours, it may take
tional standard specimens until the irradiation monitors, the AATCC Fading
more or less operating hours during the
change in color of the exposed standard Units of exposure can be determined and
actual test cycle due to the inclusion of
meets one of the following criteria. controlled by measuring kJ/(m2nm) at
the dark periods.
11.1.1 Visual Comparison—equals the 420 nm (see Table I).
change in color exhibited by the L4 Stan- NOTE: The two-step method is pre-
dard of Fade applicable to the Lot desig- 13. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement
based on Spectral Irradiation ferred for the complete characterization
nation used. of the lightfastness of a test specimen.
11.1.2 Instrumental Color Measure- 13.1 The 20 AATCC Fading Units are
ment—Lot designations of AATCC Blue produced by an exposure interval of 85 kJ/ 16. Machine Exposure using a Reference
Wool Lightfastness Standard L4 equals (m2nm) measured at 420 nm when xenon- Specimen
the CIELAB units of color change speci- arc machines are operated at the conditions
fied on the calibration certificate supplied specified in this test method (see Table I). 16.1 Expose the test specimen(s) and
with the standard as determined by reference specimen(s) simultaneously to
AATCC EP6, Evaluation Procedure for the required end point in terms of
Machine Exposure Procedures
Instrumental Color Measurement. AATCC Fading Units, kilojoules per
11.2 Alternatively, the L2 AATCC 14. Machine Exposure, General square meter of irradiance or reference
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard may Conditions specimen performance (that is, the refer-
be exposed at the specified temperature, ence specimen shows a color change
humidity and selected conditions for 20 ± 14.1 Specimen Mounting. Mount the equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale of
2 continuous light-on operating hours. test material on the specimen rack. Make Color Change).
After exposure, assess the exposed stan- sure that all materials are adequately sup-
dard specimen, either instrumentally or ported. Any displacement of the material 17. Machine Exposure for Lightfastness
compare to a L2 Standard of Fade for 20 toward or away from the source, even by Classification
AFU. When required, increase or de- a small distance, may lead to variation in
crease the wattage of the lamps, or the fading between specimens (see 8.2). 17.1 One-Step Method—Expose test
time of exposure, or both, and expose ad- When alternate light and dark cycles are specimen(s) simultaneously with a series
ditional standard specimens until the required, begin exposure at the start of of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
change in color of the exposed standard the light cycle. Standards or determine the number of
meets one of the following criteria. 14.2 In the case of woven, knitted and AATCC Fading Units required to pro-
11.2.1 Visual Comparison—equals the nonwoven fabrics, unless otherwise spec- duce a color change in the test specimen
change in color exhibited by the L2 Stan- ified, ensure that the side normally used equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for
dard of Fade for 20 AFU applicable to the as the face is directly exposed to the radi- Color Change (see 44.10).
Lot designation used (see 44.5). ant source. 17.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as di-

50 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
rected in 17.1, except double the exposure Operate and control the test apparatus as change in color exhibited by the L4 Stan-
area of the test specimens. After the speci- described above and further defined by dard of Fade applicable to the Lot desig-
men has been exposed to a color change the manufacturer. Operate the test appa- nation used.
equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for ratus in this mode and adjust the instru- 20.1.2 Instrumental Color Measure-
Color Change, remove the specimens mentation to provide the required black ment—Lot designations of AATCC Blue
from the test chamber and mask (cover) panel or black standard temperature, Wool Lightfastness Standard L4 equals
one-half of the exposed area and continue chamber air temperature and relative hu- the CIELAB units of color change speci-
the exposure until the test specimen exhib- midity. When exterior indicators are not fied on the calibration certificate supplied
its a color change equal to Step 3 on the available, read the black thermometer with the standard as determined by
Gray Scale for Color Change (see 44.10). unit through the window in the test cham- AATCC EP6.
ber door. 20.2 Alternatively, the L2 AATCC
Option 2 18.5 Verify using AATCC Blue Wool Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard may
Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light, Lightfastness Standards following the be exposed at the specified temperature,
Black Standard Option guidelines in 20.1-20.2.2. If the fade of humidity and selected conditions for 20 ±
the L2 or L4 standards do not meet these 2 continuous light-on operating hours.
Machine Operating Conditions requirements follow the instrument man- After exposure, assess the exposed stan-
ufacturer’s instructions for calibration dard specimen, either instrumentally or
18. Preparation of Test Apparatus and repeat the 20 AFU exposure with compare to a L2 Standard of Fade for 20
fresh L2 or L4 standards. If the fade does AFU. When required, increase or de-
18.1 Prior to running the test proce- meet the requirements described in Sec- crease the wattage of the lamps, or the
dure, verify machine operation by using tion 20 remove the white card stock from time of exposure, or both, and expose ad-
the following test protocol. To enhance the specimen rack and proceed. ditional standard specimens until the
the repeatability of test results, install test 18.6 For additional information to pre- change in color of the exposed standard
apparatus in a room where temperature pare and operate the test apparatus refer meets one of the following criteria.
and relative humidity are controlled in to the manufacturer’s instructions and the 20.2.1 Visual Comparison—equals the
accordance with the manufacturer’s rec- following: change in color exhibited by the L2 Stan-
ommendations. 18.6.1 Test Standard ASTM G151 and dard of Fade for 20 AFU applicable to the
18.2 Check to see that the machine has G155 (see 43.4 and 43.5). Lot designation used (see 44.5).
been calibrated and maintained within the 20.2.2 Instrumental Color Measure-
manufacturer’s recommended calibra- 19. Calibration, Verification and AATCC ment—The performance of the Blue
tion schedule interval. Fading Unit Measurement Wool lot designations of AATCC Blue
18.3 Turn off all rack and specimen Wool Lightfastness Standard L2 and L4
spray units, if applicable. 19.1 Instrument Calibration—To en- must equal the CIELAB unit of color
18.4 Set machine operating conditions sure standardization and accuracy, the in- change specified on the calibration certif-
as follows: struments associated with the exposure icate supplied with the standard as deter-
Light source Xenon apparatus (that is, light monitor control mined by AATCC EP6.
Continuous Light-on system, Black Thermometers, chamber
Black Standard air sensor, humidity control system, UV
temperature 60 ± 3ºC (140 ± 8ºF) sensors and radiometers) require periodic 21. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement by
Chamber air calibration. Whenever possible, calibra- AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
temperature 32 ± 5ºC (90 ± 9ºF) tion shall be traceable to national or inter- Standards
Relative national standards. Calibration schedule
and procedure should be in accordance 21.1 The use of AATCC Blue Wool
Humidity % 30 ± 5 Lightfastness Standards and AATCC
Filter type See A3.3 with manufacturer’s instructions.
19.1.1 The accuracy of machine opera- Fading Units provides a common expo-
Irradiance W/m²/nm sure standard across the various exposure
tion must be verified by exposure of an
(at 420nm) 1.25 ± 0.2 methods: daylight, carbon-arc lamp and
applicable AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast-
Irradiance W/m² xenon-arc lamp. The terms clock hours
ness Standard and assessment of the
(300–400nm) 65 ± 1 Standard after every 80-100 AATCC and machine hours are not valid reporting
Water requirements (Input) Fading Units. Always expose reference methods.
Type Demineralized, standards near the center position of the 21.2 Table I illustrates the number of
distilled or reverse specimen rack adjacent to the black-panel AATCC Fading Units to produce a color
osmosis temperature sensing unit. change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale
Solids ppm Less than 17, prefer- for Color Change (see 43.1) or instru-
ably less than 8 mentally (see 43.3) on each of the
20. Verification by AATCC Blue Wool
pH 7±1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan-
Lightfastness Standards
Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5ºC dards.
(61 ± 9ºF) 20.1 Expose the L4 AATCC Blue 21.3 For instrumental color measure-
(see Appendix A.) Be sure that the tem- Wool Lightfastness Standard at the speci- ment, the colorimetric data are calculated
perature chosen is appropriate for the fied temperature, humidity and operating using CIE 1964 10° observer data for Il-
type of Black Thermometer to be used conditions for 20 ± 2 continuous light-on luminant D65. Express the color differ-
(see 44.2). Fill the specimen rack with operating hours After exposure, assess ence in CIELAB units as directed in
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

framed white card stock and the required the exposed standard specimen, either vi- AATCC EP6.
black thermometer unit. The white card sually or instrumentally. Increase or de- NOTE: For Xenon-Arc, Alternating
stock is used to simulate air flow in the crease the wattage of the lamps, the time Light and Dark, Option 1, although cali-
test chamber during the test exposure and of exposure, of both, and expose addi- bration is conducted using continuous
should not include the actual test speci- tional standard specimens until the light-on operating hours, it may take
mens. Support the black thermometer change in color of the exposed standard more or less operating hours during the
unit in the specimen drum or rack in the meets one of the following criteria. actual test cycle due to the inclusion of
same manner as the test specimen frames. 20.1.1 Visual Comparison—equals the the dark periods.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.3-2020 51

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Machine Exposure Procedures the required end point in terms of Type Demineralized,
AATCC Fading Units, kilojoules per distilled or reverse
22. Machine Exposure, General square meter of irradiance or reference osmosis
Conditions specimen performance (that is, the refer- Solids ppm Less than 17, prefer-
ence specimen shows a color change ably less than 8
22.1 Specimen Mounting. Mount the equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale of pH 7±1
test material on the specimen rack. Make Color Change). Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5ºC
sure that all materials are adequately sup-
ported. Any displacement of the material (61 ± 9ºF)
25. Machine Exposure for Lightfastness (see Appendix A.) Be sure that the tem-
toward or away from the source, even by Classification
a small distance, may lead to variation in perature chosen is appropriate for the
fading between specimens (see 8.2). 25.1 One-Step Method—Expose test type of Black Thermometer to be used
When alternate light and dark cycles are specimen(s) simultaneously with a series (see 44.2). Fill the specimen rack with
required, begin exposure at the start of of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness framed white card stock and the required
the light cycle. Standards or determine the number of black thermometer unit. The white card
22.2 In the case of woven, knitted and AATCC Fading Units required to pro- stock is used to simulate air flow in the
nonwoven fabrics, unless otherwise spec- duce a color change in the test specimen test chamber during the test exposure and
ified, ensure that the side normally used equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for should not include the actual test speci-
as the face is directly exposed to the radi- Color Change (see 44.10). mens. Support the black thermometer
ant source. 25.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as unit in the specimen drum or rack in the
22.3 Operate the test apparatus on a directed in 25.1, except double the expo- same manner as the test specimen frames.
daily basis until the selected exposure has sure area of the test specimens. After the Operate and control the test apparatus as
been completed. Avoid unnecessary de- specimen has been exposed to a color described and further defined by the man-
lays when interrupting the exposure pe- change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale ufacturer. Operate the test apparatus in
riod to change filters, carbons or lamps, for Color Change, remove the specimens this mode and adjust the instrumentation
as such delays may contribute to varia- from the test chamber and mask (cover) to provide the required black panel or
tions in results or lead to errors. When one-half of the exposed area and continue black standard temperature, chamber air
available, monitor exposure test chamber the exposure until the test specimen ex- temperature and relative humidity. When
conditions with suitable recorders. If hibits a color change equal to Step 3 on exterior indicators are not available, read
necessary, readjust the controls to main- the Gray Scale for Color Change (see the black thermometer unit through the
tain the specified test conditions. 44.10). window in the test chamber door.
26.5 Verify using AATCC Blue Wool
Lightfastness Standards following the
23. Machine Exposure to a Specified Option 3
guidelines in 28.1-28.2.2. If the fade of
Amount of Radiant Energy Xenon-Arc Lamp, Continuous Light,
the L2 or L4 standards do not meet these
Black Panel Option
23.1 One-Step Method—Expose the requirements follow the instrument man-
test specimens and applicable standards ufacturer’s instructions for calibration
for 5, 10, 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC Machine Operating Conditions and repeat the 20 AFU exposure with
Fading Units until the specimen has been fresh L2 or L4 standards. If the fade does
exposed to the desired amount of radiant 26. Preparation of Test Apparatus meet the requirements described in Sec-
energy defined in terms of AATCC Fad- tion 28 remove the white card stock from
26.1 Prior to running the test proce- the specimen rack and proceed.
ing Units measured by simultaneous ex-
dure, verify machine operation by using 26.6 For additional information to pre-
posure of the appropriate Blue Wool
the following test protocol. To enhance pare and operate the test apparatus refer
Standard(s).
the repeatability of test results, install test to the manufacturer’s instructions and the
23.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as apparatus in a room where temperature
directed in 23.1, except double the expo- following:
and relative humidity are controlled in 26.6.1 Test Standard ASTM G151 and
sure area of the test specimens. After the accordance with the manufacturer’s rec-
specimen has been exposed to the first G155 (see 43.4 and 43.5).
ommendations.
specified level of radiant energy, remove
26.2 Check to see that the machine has
the specimens from the test chamber and 27. Calibration, Verification and AATCC
been calibrated and maintained within the
mask (cover) one-half of the exposed Fading Unit Measurement
manufacturer’s recommended calibra-
area and continue the exposure for an ad-
tion schedule interval. 27.1 Instrument Calibration—To en-
ditional 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC
Fading Units until the specimen has been 26.3 Turn off all rack and specimen sure standardization and accuracy, the in-
exposed to the higher desired amount of spray units, if applicable. struments associated with the exposure
radiant energy. 26.4 Set machine operating conditions apparatus (that is, light monitor control
23.3 In those machines equipped with as follows: system, Black Thermometers, chamber
irradiation monitors, the AATCC Fading Light source Xenon air sensor, humidity control system, UV
Units of exposure can be determined and Continuous light-on sensors and radiometers) require periodic
controlled by measuring kJ/(m2nm) at Black Panel calibration. Whenever possible, calibra-
420 nm (see Table I). temperature 63 ± 1ºC (145 ± 2ºF) tion shall be traceable to national or inter-
NOTE: The two-step method is pre- Chamber air national standards. Calibration schedule
ferred for the complete characterization temperature 43 ± 2ºC (110 ± 4ºF) and procedure should be in accordance
of the lightfastness of a test specimen. Relative with manufacturer’s instructions.
Humidity % 30 ± 5 27.1.1 The accuracy of machine opera-
24. Machine Exposure using a Reference
Filter type See A3.3 tion must be verified by exposure of an
Specimen Irradiance applicable AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast-
W/m²/nm (at 420nm) 1.10 ± 0.03 ness Standard and assessment of the
24.1 Expose the test specimen(s) and W/m² (at 300-400nm) 48 ± 1 Standard after every 80-100 AATCC
reference specimen(s) simultaneously to Water requirements (Input) Fading Units. Always expose reference

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

52 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
of exposure, of both, and expose addi- more or less operating hours during the Fading Units until the specimen has been
tional standard specimens until the actual test cycle due to the inclusion of exposed to the higher desired amount of
change in color of the exposed standard the dark periods. radiant energy.
meets one of the following criteria. 32.3 In those machines equipped with
28.1.1 Visual Comparison—equals the irradiation monitors, the AATCC Fading
change in color exhibited by the L4 Stan- 30. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement
Based on Spectral Irradiation Units of exposure can be determined and
dard of Fade applicable to the Lot desig- controlled by measuring kJ/(m2nm) at
nation used. 30.1 The 20 AATCC Fading Units are 420 nm (see 30.1 and Table I).
28.1.2 Instrumental Color Measure- produced by an exposure interval of 85 NOTE: The two-step method is pre-
ment—Lot designations of AATCC Blue kJ(m2nm) measured at 420 nm when xe- ferred for the complete characterization
Wool Lightfastness Standard L4 equals non-arc machines are operated at the con- of the lightfastness of a test specimen.
the CIELAB units of color change speci- ditions specified in this test method (see
fied on the calibration certificate supplied Table I). 33. Machine Exposure using a Reference
with the standard as determined by
Specimen
AATCC EP6.
28.2 Alternatively, the L2 AATCC Machine Exposure Procedures 33.1 Expose the test specimen(s) and
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard may reference specimen(s) simultaneously to
be exposed at the specified temperature, 31. Machine Exposure, General the required end point in terms of
humidity and selected conditions for 20 ± Conditions AATCC Fading Units, kJ/m2 of irradi-
2 continuous light-on operating hours. ance or reference specimen performance
After exposure, assess the exposed stan- 31.1 Specimen Mounting. Mount the
test material on the specimen rack. Make (that is, the reference specimen shows a
dard specimen, either instrumentally or color change equal to Step 4 on the Gray
compare to a L2 Standard of Fade for 20 sure that all materials are adequately sup-
ported. Any displacement of the material Scale of Color Change).
AFU. When required, increase or de-
crease the wattage of the lamps, or the toward or away from the source, even by
a small distance, may lead to variation in 34. Machine Exposure for Lightfastness
time of exposure, or both, and expose ad- Classification
ditional standard specimens until the fading between specimens (see 8.2).
change in color of the exposed standard When alternate light and dark cycles are 34.1 One-Step Method—Expose test
meets one of the following criteria. required, begin exposure at the start of specimen(s) simultaneously with a series
28.2.1 Visual Comparison—equals the the light cycle. of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness
change in color exhibited by the L2 Stan- 31.2 In the case of woven, knitted and Standards or determine the number of
dard of Fade for 20 AFU applicable to the nonwoven fabrics, unless otherwise spec- AATCC Fading Units required to pro-
Lot designation used (see 44.5). ified, ensure that the side normally used duce a color change in the test specimen
28.2.2 Instrumental Color Measure- as the face is directly exposed to the radi- equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for
ment—The performance of the Blue ant source. Color Change (see 44.10).
Wool lot designations of AATCC Blue 31.3 Operate the test apparatus on a 34.2 Two-Step Method—Proceed as
Wool Lightfastness Standard L2 and L4 daily basis until the selected exposure has directed in 34.1, except double the expo-
must equal the CIELAB unit of color been completed. Avoid unnecessary de- sure area of the test specimens. After the
change specified on the calibration certif- lays when interrupting the exposure pe- specimen has been exposed to a color
icate supplied with the standard as deter- riod to change filters, carbons or lamps, change equal to Step 4 on the Gray Scale
mined by AATCC EP6. as such delays may contribute to varia- for Color Change, remove the specimens
tions in results or lead to errors. When from the test chamber and mask (cover)
29. AATCC Fading Unit Measurement by available, monitor exposure test chamber one-half of the exposed area and continue
AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness conditions with suitable recorders. If the exposure until the test specimen ex-
Standards necessary, readjust the controls to main- hibits a color change equal to Step 3 on
tain the specified test conditions. Verify the Gray Scale for Color Change (see
29.1 The use of AATCC Blue Wool calibration of the test apparatus during 44.10).
Lightfastness Standards and AATCC the test cycle.
Fading Units provides a common expo- Evaluation of Results
sure standard across the various exposure 32. Machine Exposure to a Specified
methods: daylight, carbon-arc lamp and Amount of Radiant Energy 35. Conditioning
xenon-arc lamp. The terms clock hours
and machine hours are not valid reporting 32.1 One-Step Method—Expose the 35.1 After the test exposure is com-
methods. test specimens and applicable standards pleted, remove the test specimens and
29.2 Table I illustrates the number of for 5, 10, 20 or multiples of 20 AATCC comparison standards from exposure.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.3-2020 53

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
the CIE 1976 equation using illuminant Precision and Bias artificial light can be defined only in
D65 and 10° observer data. For instru- terms of a test method. There is no inde-
ments with diffuse geometry, include the 41. Precision pendent method for determining the true
specular component of reflectance in the value. As a means of estimating this
measurements (refer to AATCC EP6). 41.1 Interlaboratory Test Summary— property, the method has no known bias.
Committee RA50 has conducted exten-
37. Acceptance Based on Simultaneous sive studies to evaluate the use of radia- 43. References
Exposure of a Reference Specimen tion monitoring devices to terminate ex-
posures in lightfastness testing. Data has 43.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce-
37.1 Assess color change of the mate- been collected in interlaboratory studies dure for Gray Scale for Color Change
rial (not blue wool) as directed in Section using controlled irradiance, xenon-arc (see 44.5).
36 in terms of the agreed upon reference equipment and in daylight exposures con- 43.2 AATCC EP6, Evaluation Proce-
specimen. ducted during a two-year period in both dure for Instrumental Color Measurement
37.2 Assess the lightfastness of the ma- Arizona and Southern Florida. In both (see 44.5).
terial as follows: studies, one laboratory conducted instru- 43.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce-
37.2.1 Satisfactory—If the test speci- mental measurement of the color change dure for Instrumental Assessment of the
men exhibits a color change equal to or for all exposed specimens. Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see
less than the reference specimen at the The interlaboratory studies were un- 44.5).
exposure level when the reference speci- dertaken, using eight different lightfast- 43.4 ASTM G151, Standard Practice
men shows a color change equal to Step 4 ness standard fabrics, to determine the for Exposing Nonmetallic Materials in
on the Gray Scale for Color Change. definition of 20 AATCC Fading Units Accelerated Test Devices that Use Labo-
37.2.2 Unsatisfactory—If the test spec- in terms of measured radiation. These ratory Light Sources (see 44.9).
imen exhibits a color change greater than studies showed that acceptable agreement 43.5 ASTM G155, Standard Practice
the reference specimen at the exposure between laboratories can be obtained for for Operating Xenon-Arc Light Apparatus
level when the reference specimen shows lightfastness testing providing the follow- for Exposure of Nonmetallic Materials
a color change equal to Step 4 on the ing variables are controlled: irradiance (see 44.9).
Gray Scale for Color Change. level, black-panel temperature, ambient
37.3 Alternatively, buyer and seller temperature and relative humidity. Over- 44. Notes
may make acceptance judgment based on all, there was less than 10% variability in
color difference as described in 36.3. the instrumentally determined color 44.1 Historically, AATCC Blue Wool

54 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Lightfastness Standards, except L2, were spe- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 44.8 Specimen frames must be made of
cially prepared by blending varying propor- of listing equipment and materials sold by its stainless steel, aluminum, or suitably coated
tions of wool dyed with a very fugitive corporate members, but AATCC does not steel to avoid contaminating the specimens
dyestuff, Erio Chrome Azurole B (C.I. 43830) qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- with metallic impurities that might catalyze or
and wool dyed with a fast dyestuff, Indigosol tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- inhibit the degradation. When specimens are
Blue AGG (C.I. 73801). Each resultant higher als meets the requirements in its test methods. fastened with staples, they should be of the
numbered standard is twice as colorfast as the 44.4 More uniform and reproducible fading nonferrous type overcoated to avoid contami-
preceding numbered standard. AATCC Blue of the AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Stan- nation of the specimen by corrosion products.
Wool Lightfastness Standards and the ISO dards and test specimens is achieved when Metal frames must have a dull finish and be
numbered Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards backed with white cardboard. The color dif- designed to avoid reflectances that could in-
(as used in ISO 105-B01) produce different ference values in the initial determination of fluence the performance of the material.
ratings and therefore cannot be used inter- the end point for the AATCC Blue Wool Frames shall conform to the curvature of the
changeably. Lots 8 and 9 of the L2 AATCC Lightfastness Standards were determined from specimen rack. The size of the frame is deter-
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard were batch exposures with such backing. Although toler- mined by the type specimens required for indi-
dyed. L2 can be used to measure 5 or 20 AFU ances are given for both the AATCC Blue vidual property requirements.
exposures, producing two distinct fading end- Wool Lightfastness Standards, every effort 44.9 Available from ASTM International,
points. L2 Standards of Fade for 5 AFU and should be made to achieve the midpoint value 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
20 AFU are available (see 44.5). given for these standards. For referee pur- 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
44.2 Black Thermometers are used to con- poses, the AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
trol an artificial weathering device and to pro- Standards will be exposed in multiples of 44.10 An automated electronic grading sys-
vide an estimate of the maximum temperature three and the average color change must equal tem may be used as long as the system has
of specimens exposed to a radiant energy the CIELAB unit of color change specified on been demonstrated to provide results that are
source. There are two types of Black Ther- the calibration certificate supplied with the ap- equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
mometers. One type is referred to as a “Black plicable standard as determined by AATCC ity and reproducibility than an experienced
Panel Thermometer” which is uninsulated and EP6 (see 44.5). grader performing visual evaluations.
is made of metal. The other type is referred to 44.5 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 44.11 Classification Based on the
as a “Black Standard Thermometer” which is 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards
insulated and is made of metal with a plastic +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; web 44.11.1 One Step Exposure—Classify
backing. As a point of information, some ISO site: www.aatcc.org; e-mail: [email protected]. lightfastness of the material by:
specifications specify the use of a “Black 44.6 Refer to ASTM G151 and G155 for (a) comparison of the color change of the
Standard Thermometer.” Typically, Black guidance on design and performance require- test specimen to that of a simultaneously ex-
Standard Thermometers indicate higher tem- ments for instruments specified in this posed series of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfast-
peratures than Black Panel Thermometers un- method. Further guidance is found in Appen- ness Standards (see Table II), or
der the same exposure conditions. dix A. Consult the AATCC Buyer’s Guide for (b) determination of the number of AATCC
The Black Thermometer units indicate the potential equipment information. Fading Units required to produce a color
absorbed irradiance minus the heat dissipated 44.7 Pile fabric, such as carpets, which change in the test specimen equal to Step 4 of
by conduction and convection. Keep the black have fibers that may shift position, or texture the Gray Scale for Color Change (see Table I).
face of these thermometer units in good condi- which may make evaluations in small areas 44.11.2 Two Step Exposure—Classify
tion. Follow the manufacturer’s recommenda- difficult should be tested with an exposed area lightfastness of the material by:
tions for proper care and maintenance of of not less than approximately 40.0 × 50.0 mm (a) determination of the number of AATCC
Black Thermometers. (1.6 × 2.0 in.). Expose sufficient size or multiple Fading Units required to produce color
44.2.1 For Black Panel Thermometers: specimens to include all colors in the specimen. changes in the test specimen equal to both a
Testing temperature is measured and regulated
by a Black Panel Thermometer unit mounted
on the specimen rack to permit the face of it to
receive the same exposure as the test speci- Table II—Classification by AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standardsa
men. Black Panel Thermometers shall consist Test Specimen Color Change
of a metal panel at least 70 × 150 mm and not
less than 45 × 100 mm whose temperature is Equal To But Not
measured with a thermometer or thermocou- Less Than Greater Than More Than Lightfastness AATCC Fading
ple whose sensitive portion is located in the Standard Standard Standard Class Units (AFU)
center of and in good contact with the panel. — — L2 L1
The side of the panel facing the light source — L2 L3 L2 5
shall be black with a reflectance of less than L2 — L3 L2-3
5% throughout the spectrum of light reaching — L3 L4 L3 10
the specimen; the side of the panel not facing L3 — L4 L3-4
the light source shall be open to the atmo- — L4 L5 L4 20
sphere within the exposure chamber. L4 — L5 L4-5
44.2.2 For Black Standard Thermometers: — L5 L6 L5 40
Testing temperature is measured and regulated L5 — L6 L5-6
by a black standard thermometer unit mounted — L6 L7 L6 80
on the specimen rack to permit the face of it to L6 — L7 L6-7
receive the same exposure as the test speci- — L7 L8 L7 160
men. The Black Standard Thermometer shall
L7 — L8 L7-8
consist of a plane of stainless steel plate mea-
suring 70 × 40 mm with a thickness of about — L8 L9 L8 320
0.5 mm, whose temperature is measured by a L8 — L9 L8-9
thermal resistor, with good heat-conducting — L9 — L9 640
properties, fitted to the reverse side. The metal a
plate is fixed to a plastic plate so that it is ther- The following are examples for using Table II to assign lightfastness classifications:
mally insulated. The side of the panel facing The test specimen is exposed simultaneously with standards L4, L5, and L6. After exposure and condition-
the light source shall be black with a reflec- ing, the color change exhibited by the test specimen is less than that exhibited by the standards L4 and L5
tance of less than 5% throughout the spectrum but greater than that exhibited by the standard L6. The test specimen would be assigned a Lightfastness
of light reaching the specimen. Classification of L5-6, or use the following example.
44.3 For potential equipment information The test specimen is examined after each exposure increment until it exhibits a color change equal to Step
pertaining to this test method, please visit 4 on the Gray Scale for Color Change. If this occurs after 40 AFU and before 80 AFU exposure, the test
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. specimen would be assigned a Lightfastness Classification of L5-6.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.3-2020 55

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
— 7 — L9-10 11200 radiation. In addition, filters to remove
8 — 7 L9-10 — infrared radiation may be used to prevent
— 8 — L10 12800 unrealistic heating of test specimens that
a
etc.a a
etc.a a
etc.a a
etc.a0 can cause thermal degradation not experi-
a
enced during outdoor exposures. Filters to
A classification increase of 1 represents the interval when the equivalent AATCC Fading Units are doubled reduce irradiance at wavelengths shorter
from the previous whole number classification. Any test specimen for which the number of L7 Standards
fall between two whole number classifications is assigned both the lower and higher classification defining
than 310 nm must be used to simulate
that interval. daylight filtered through window glass.
The instrument manufacturers’ recom-
mendations should be used to provide the
appropriate spectrum (see A3.4 below).
Step 4 and Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Color ity level, chamber air temperature, and Replace filters when chipped, cracked, or
Change (see Table I). Black Panel or Black Standard Ther- when discoloration or milkiness devel-
44.11.3 Assign both classifications: the mometer temperature. ops. Discard xenon lamp tubes and filters
Step 3 level appears first, followed by the Step A2 The design of the test chamber may at the manufacturer’s recommended time
4 level in parentheses. For example, a L5(4)
classification would illustrate a L5 classifica- vary, but it should be constructed from intervals or sooner, or when 20 AATCC
tion at Step 3 color change and a L4 classifica- corrosion resistant material. Fading Units can no longer be attained in
tion at Step 4 color change. When only one A3 Xenon-Arc Light Source. The xe- 20 ± 2 continuous light-on operating
classification number is assigned, it shall rep- non-arc test apparatus utilizes a long-arc (clock) hours.
resent the number of AATCC Fading Units to quartz-jacketed xenon-arc lamp as the A3.3 Spectral Irradiance of Filtered
produce a Step 4 color change. source of irradiance which emits radia- Xenon-Arc—Fig. A1 shows the desired
44.12 Classification above L7 AATCC tion from below 270 nm in the ultraviolet relative spectral power distribution for
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard through the visible spectrum and into the filtered xenon-arcs comply with these
44.12.1 Using Table III, classify lightfast- infrared. limits. The acceptable limits for variation
ness above the L7 AATCC Blue Wool Light-
fastness Standard according to the total While all of the xenon-arc lamps are of of the relative spectral power distribution
number of consecutive L7 standards exposed the same general type, different size shown in Fig. A1 are on file at the
to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Color Change lamps operated in different wattage AATCC Technical Center.
during the exposure cycle that is required to ranges are employed in several sizes and A3.4 Follow the device manufacturer’s
produce a Step 4 color change on the test spec- types of apparatus. In each of the various instructions for recommended maintenance.
imen, and Table III.

45 History
4.50
45.1 Revised in 2020 to update and added
three flow charts in Appendix B to reflect each 4.00
of the three options.
45.2 Revised 1971, 1974, 1978, 1981, 3.50
1982, 1990 (Supersedes AATCC TM16-1987,
TM16A-1988, TM16C-1988, TM16D-1988, 3.00
TM16E-1987, TM16F-1988 and TM16G-
Irradiance (W/(m2nm)

1985), 1993, 2003, 2004, 2012 (Supersedes 2.50

AATCC TM16-2004), 2014; reaffirmed 1977,
1998; editorially revised 1983, 1984, 1986,
2.00
1995, 1996, 2009, 2016, 2019.
45.3 Developed in 1964 by AATCC Com-
1.50
mittee RA50; Related to Option 3-ISO 105-
B02.
1.00

Appendix A
0.50
Xenon-Arc Lamp Fading Apparatus
0.00
A. Xenon-Arc Lamp Fading Apparatus 280 320 360 400 440 480 520 560 600 640 680 720 760 800

A1 Different types of xenon-arc test wavelength (nm)

apparatus may be utilized provided that

the test apparatus is capable of automati- Fig. A1—Filtered Xenon Lamp Spectral Power
cally controlling irradiance level, humid- Distribution Controlled at 1.1 W/(m2nm) at 420 nm

56 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Sample Identification_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Material Exposed: Face_ Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating _ Lightfastness Classification _

Acceptance Compared to Reference Sample (Yes/No) ____________________________________

Test Specimen Compared To: Masked Portion ____________________________________

Unmasked Portion _ Unexposed Original_

Colorfastness to Light Rating determined by:

Gray Scale for Color Change __________________________________________

Instrumentally, Name Type __________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Classification Method ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Reference Standard _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Temperature Controlled By: Ambient (Dry Bulb)_____________________________________ °C

Black Panel _°C Black Standard °C

Exposure Controlled By: AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards _______________________________________

Radiant Energy___ Other

Total Radiant Energy__________________________________

Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________________________________ Model No.

Serial No. _ Manufacturer’s Name ________________________________________

Specimen Rack: Inclined ___________________ 2-Tier ____________________ 3-Tier ____________________ Horizontal _______________________

Type of Water Supply ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Option Employed ________ Elapsed Exposure Time _

Mounting Procedure: Backed _ Unbacked ___

Sample Rotation Schedule % Relative Humidity __

For Daylight Behind Glass, report the following:

Geographical Location _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Exposure Dates: From___ To

Exposure Latitude ___ Exposure Angle _

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ____________________________________ If Yes, Specify Type _________________________________

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily Black Panel Temperature: Minimum __________°C Maximum __________°C Avg. __________°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum Maximum Avg. __

Hours of Wetness: Rain____________ Rain and Dew_

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.3-2020 57

16.3 Flowchart 1 for Option 1 Xenon-Arc Lamp, Alternating Light and Dark

Section 8 Section 36
Test Specimen Assessment of
Preparation Color Change

Section 10
Section 9
Calibration,
Preparationand
Verification of Assessment > L7
Reference
Test
AATCC Apparatus
Fading
Specimen
Unit Measurement

Blue Wool
Section 10 Section 37 Section 38 Section 39
Calibration, Acceptance Based Classification Classification
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Verification and on Simultaneous Based on AATCC Above L7 AATCC

AATCC Fading Exposure of a Blue Wool Blue Wool
Unit Measurement Reference Lightfastness Lightfastness
Specimen Standards Standard

Section 11
Verification of
Section 40
AATCC Blue Wool
Report
Lightfastness
Standards

Section 14
Machine
Exposure, General
Conditions

Radiant
Energy, Blue
Reference Wool or
Material Reference Blue Wool
Material

Radiant Energy

Section 15
Section 16 Section 17
Machine Exposure
Machine Exposure Machine Exposure
to a Specified
Using a Reference for Lightfastness
Amount of Radiant
Specimen Classification
Energy

Section 35
Conditioning

58 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Section 8 Section 36
Test Specimen Assessment of
Preparation Color Change

Section 10
Section 18
Calibration,
Preparationand
Verification of Assessment > L7
Reference
Test
AATCC Apparatus
Fading
Specimen
Unit Measurement

Blue Wool
Section 19 Section 37 Section 38 Section 39
Calibration, Acceptance Based Classification Classification
Verification and on Simultaneous Based on AATCC Above L7 AATCC
AATCC Fading Exposure of a Blue Wool Blue Wool
Unit Measurement Reference Lightfastness Lightfastness
Specimen Standards Standard

Section 20
Verification of
Section 40
AATCC Blue Wool
Report
Lightfastness
Standards

Section 22
Machine
Exposure, General
Conditions
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Radiant
Energy, Blue
Reference Wool or
Material Reference Blue Wool
Material

Radiant Energy

Section 23
Section 24 Section 25
Machine Exposure
Machine Exposure Machine Exposure
to a Specified
Using a Reference for Lightfastness
Amount of Radiant
Specimen Classification
Energy

Section 35
Conditioning

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.3-2020 59

Section 8 Section 36
Test Specimen Assessment of
Preparation Color Change

Section 10
Section 26
Calibration,
Preparationand
Verification of Assessment > L7
Reference
Test
AATCC Apparatus
Fading
Specimen
Unit Measurement

Blue Wool
Section 27 Section 37 Section 38 Section 39
Calibration, Acceptance Based Classification Classification
Verification and on Simultaneous Based on AATCC Above L7 AATCC
AATCC Fading Exposure of a Blue Wool Blue Wool
Unit Measurement Reference Lightfastness Lightfastness
Specimen Standards Standard

Section 28
Verification of
Section 40
AATCC Blue Wool
Report
Lightfastness
Standards

Section 31
Machine
Exposure, General
Conditions

Radiant
Energy, Blue
Reference Wool or
Material Reference Blue Wool
Material

Radiant Energy

Section 32
Section 33 Section 34
Machine Exposure
Machine Exposure Machine Exposure
to a Specified
Using a Reference for Lightfastness
Amount of Radiant
Specimen Classification
Energy

Section 35
Conditioning
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

60 AATCC TM16.3-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Wetting Agents, Evaluation of

Developed in 1932 by AATCC Committee 5.6 Bulb transfer pipettes, assorted sizes. of 25°C merely by using water which has
RR8; jurisdiction transferred in 2003 5.7 Cotton yarn, greige unboiled, 2-ply, been brought to the correct temperature
to AATCC Committee RA63; jurisdiction in 5-g skeins (see 10.4). in a large pail. For tests at higher temper-
transferred in 2022 to AATCC Commit- 5.8 Water, distilled (see 10.5). atures, heat the diluted solution for test in
tee RA114; reaffirmed 1943, 1971, 5.9 Graph paper, log-log. the mixing beaker to a temperature some-
1977, 1980, 1989, 2005, 2010, 2014, what above that required, pour the solu-
2018; revised 1952, 1999; editorially 6. Test Solutions tion into the cylinder and then allow it to

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
revised and reaffirmed 1974, 1985, cool back to the testing temperature.
1994; editorially revised 1988, 1991, 6.1 Stock solutions of the agents to be 7.3 For a determination, a 5.00 g skein
2004, 2008, 2019, 2022. tested are normally prepared to contain of yarn is folded enough times to form a
50.0 g of agent per liter unless the solu- loop 45.7 cm around. A 91.4 cm skein is
bility is so poor that less must be em- most convenient and can be formed into a
1. Purpose and Scope ployed. The wetting agent is first thor- 45.7 cm loop with only 2 folds; a 137.2
oughly dissolved in about a quarter of the cm skein requires 3 folds; a 182.9 cm
1.1 This test method determines the ef- necessary distilled water at a temperature
ficiency of ordinary commercial wetting skein, 4 folds and a 228.6 cm skein re-
above 80°C and is then diluted to the final quires 5 folds. The hook with its anchor
agents. volume with cold distilled water. Aliquot is fastened at one end of the folded skein
portions of 5, 7, 10, 15, 25, 35, 50, 75 and and the skein is cut through with shears at
2. Principle 100 mL of the 5% stock solution taken the opposite end. The cut skein is drawn
2.1 A weighted cotton test skein is with delivery bulb pipettes and diluted through the fingers when testing wetting
dropped into a tall cylinder containing a with suitable water (see 10.4) to 1000 mL agents in order to make it more compact.
water solution of a wetting agent. The correspond, respectively, to concentra- Any threads which have been tied around
time required for a string stirrup connect- tions of 0.25, 0.35, 0.50, 0.75, 1.25, 1.75, the skein to correct its weight are folded
ing the weight and the skein to relax is re- 2.50, 3.75 and 5.00 g of wetting agent per into the skein near the hook. The skein is
corded as the sinking time. liter. This range of concentrations is suffi- held in one hand with the anchor dan-
cient for the study of any commercial gling into the wetting solution contained
product. in the 500 mL graduated cylinder. A stop-
3. Terminology
watch held in the other hand is started
3.1 wetting agent, n.—a chemical 7. Procedure just as the skein is released into the solu-
compound which when added to water tion and it is stopped when the buoyant
lowers both the surface tension of the liq- 7.1 The diluted solution for test is skein definitely starts to sink to the bot-
uid and its interfacial tension against the poured from the liter volumetric flask tom of the cylinder. The skein before
solid material. into a 1500 mL beaker to ensure mixing. sinking must be entirely covered with so-
The solution in the beaker is then divided lution and yet it must possess enough
equally between two 500 mL graduated buoyancy from the air within the yarn to
4. Safety Precautions
cylinders. If the more dilute solutions are keep the linen thread taut between the an-
NOTE: These safety precautions are tested first, the mixing beaker and cylin- chor and the hook (see Fig. 1). The aver-
for information purposes only. The pre- ders need not be rinsed out and dried each age of at least four determinations of
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- time. The operator must wait after the sinking time should be obtained for each
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- cylinders have been filled until all bub- concentration of wetting agent. An aver-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use bles below the surface of the solution age deviation of 10-12% in sinking time
safe and proper techniques in handling have risen to the top before the sinking may be expected (see 10.6).
materials in this test method. Manufac- tests are made. The operator may advan-
turers MUST be consulted for specific tageously prepare solutions for 6 more
details such as material safety data sheets cylinders while waiting for the bubbles to 8. Evaluation
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- rise. Foam on the surface of the solution
8.1 The method of handling the data
tions. All OSHA standards and rules is removed either with a 100 mL bulb pi-
must also be consulted and followed. pette or with an aspirator. Where there is
4.1 Good laboratory practices should little tendency for exhaustion of the wet-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all ting agent on the test skeins—practically
laboratory areas. always true for cotton—it is permissible
4.2 Wear chemical goggles, rubber to use the same diluted solution over
gloves and apron in preparing wetting again several times rather than to make a
agent stock solution. new diluted solution for each new skein.
In this case only one 500 mL cylinder can
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 10.1) be filled repeatedly from one liter of solu-
tion of a certain concentration.
5.1 Hooks of standard weight and at- 7.2 Since temperature often markedly
tached anchors (see 10.2 and 10.3). affects wetting, standard temperatures of
5.2 Volumetric flasks, 1000 mL. 25°C, 50°C, 70°C and 90°C have been
5.3 Beaker, 1500 mL. chosen for testing so as to include the
5.4 Graduated cylinders, 500 mL. complete commercially useful range. It is Fig. 1—Position of skein before and
5.5 Bulb pipette (or aspirator), 100 mL. most convenient to attain a temperature after sinking.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM17-1999e2(2018)e2 61

10.2 The hook of a standard weight and the

hook, it has been found that they have the 9. Precision and Bias attached anchor are prepared as follows: A
same slopes for any weight of hook by piece of No. 10 B&S gauge copper wire about
the method of testing described here, and 9.1 Precision. A within-laboratory test 6.51 cm long is bent into the form of a hook as
they even have quite closely the same was conducted to establish the precision illustrated by “A” in Fig. 3 and then the
slopes for any other method of testing in of the test method. Three testers, on three weight of the bent hook is adjusted to exactly
which cotton is employed. Under such different days, performed four checks per 3.000 g. Nickel, silver and stainless steel wire
conditions it is then logical to assume that level of surfactant. An average of the four are even more suitable than copper for this
checks was computed for each level of purpose because they are more corrosion re-
solutions that cause wetting in equal sisting. The anchor, “C,” is a flat, cylindrical,
times for the same lot of cotton under surfactant. Table II indicates the average,
lead slug weighing over 40 g and having a di-
similar conditions are equivalent. Com- and the standard deviation, from the data ameter of 25 mm and a thickness of about 4.7
parisons of relative costs of wetting can of the three testers. mm. In the center of the anchor is soldered a
then be made as illustrated in Table I, 9.1.1 The coefficient of variation is be- loop of wire to serve as a small ring, or eye,
where the cost for 378.5 L of wetting ing used to determine the bias of this for attaching the anchor to the hook with a
agent is calculated from the following method. The data used was generated fine linen thread, “B,” at a distance apart of
formula: from the within-laboratory results of 19 mm. If many products are to be tested, pre-
three testers. Table III indicates the per- pare at least two hooks and anchors.
8.3 Cost for 378.5 L of solution at wet- 10.3 In the comparison of wetting agents it
ting conc. = 0.835 × (wetting conc. in g/L centage per level of surfactant.
has been found that a 3.0 g hook gives a con-
× (cost per g). centration for 25 s wetting which is most often
8.4 When two products have markedly fairly close to the concentration employed in
different slopes for plots representing the practice for original wetting in various mill
Table II—Sinking Time Average processes. If now, however, the concentration
relationship between sinking times and and Standard Deviation of wetting agent found satisfactory for the
concentrations on log-log graph paper, particular work in the mill is much higher or
Sinking Time much lower than the concentration obtained
Surfactant Avg. of S.D. of with the 3.0 g hook, then a hook of a different
Level 3 Testers 3 Testers weight should be employed for making com-
parisons between products which are valid for
0.25 g/L 120.00 s 0s the particular situation.
0.35 g/L 120.00 s 0s
For comparisons at low concentrations a
0.50 g/L 77.00 s 13.18 s
6.0 g, or even a 9.0 g hook, is employed for a
0.75 g/L 32.75 s 3.70 s sinking time of 25 s. Only products with sink-
1.25 g/L 14.42 s 1.70 s ing curves of similar slopes show the same
1.75 g/L 8.58 s 0.80 s equivalent values for 0.5 g, 1.5 g, 3.0 g, 6.0 g,
2.50 g/L 4.75 s 0.50 s
3.75 g/L 3.10 s 0.14 s
5.00 g/L 2.00 s 0s

Table III—Coefficient of Variation

at Different Surfactant Levels
Surfactant Level CV %
0.25 g/L 0
0.35 g/L 0
0.50 g/L 17
0.75 g/L 11
1.25 g/L 12
1.75 g/L 9
2.50 g/L 11
Fig. 2—Plot of results. 3.75 g/L 5 Fig. 3—Hook for use in
(See text under Evaluation.) 5.00 g/L 0 test of wetting agents.

62 AATCC TM17-1999e2(2018)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM17-1999e2(2018)e2 63

Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Qualitative

1. Purpose and Scope amination is particularly useful in charac- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
1.1 This test method describes physi- terizing the natural fibers. It must be used laboratory areas.
cal, chemical and microscopical tech- with caution on man-made fibers since 4.2 All chemicals should be handled
niques for identifying textile fibers found they are frequently produced in a number with care.
in textile products and sold in the United of modifications which alter the longitu- 4.3 In preparing, dispensing and han-
States. Fibers may be examined in raw fi- dinal or cross-sectional appearance. In dling the reagents outlined in Section 6,
ber form or taken from yarn or fabric. addition, man-made fibers may contain use chemical goggles or face shield, im-
1.2 These test methods may be used to some or no delusterant or other additive pervious gloves and an impervious apron.
identify generic fiber types as defined by particles. Filaments of a given type may Concentrated acids should be handled
the Textile Fibers Products Identification vary in size or cross-sectional shape. In- only in an adequately ventilated labora-
Act and subsequent rules and regulations dividual filaments may have two or more tory hood. CAUTION: Always add acid
of the Federal Trade Commission or ISO component sections of the same or differ- to water.
2076, Textiles man-made fibres-generic ent generic types. 4.4 All poisonous and flammable re-
names. Quantitative methods for deter- 2.1.2 Even natural fibers show a fairly agents should be mixed and handled only
mining percentages in blends of fibers are wide variation in typical cross-section. in an adequately ventilated laboratory
covered by AATCC TM20A, Test No specific specimen will look exactly hood. CAUTION: Acetone and ethyl al-
Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative. like the pictures published. A sufficient cohol are highly flammable and should
1.3 The test methods apply to fibers number of fibers should be examined to be stored in the laboratory only in small
which are shown below grouped by ge- cover the range of appearance in any containers away from heat, open flame
neric classifications: specimen. and sparks.
2.2 Successful identification of fibers 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should
Natural Fibers Man-Made Fibers depends upon experience and familiarity
Cellulose (Vegetable) acetate
be located nearby and an organic vapor
with the fibers. The identification of an respirator should be readily available for
cotton secondary
hemp triacetate unknown fiber is best made by compari- emergency use.
jute acrylic son with properly identified fibers used 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this
linen anidex as reference standards. For this reason it procedure must be controlled at or below
ramie aramid is desirable to have available at least one
sisal (agave) meta aramid levels set by governmental authorities
manila hemp (abaca) para aramid representative fiber sample from each ge- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
azlon neric class of fibers, which can be used Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
glass for comparative identification. posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
Keratin (Animal) metallic 2.3 This test method provides means
alpaca modacrylic 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
camel novoloid for identifying the generic classification for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
cashmere nylon of the common fiber types. In special can Conference of Governmental Indus-
horse 6 cases, as when dealing with fibers not de- trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
llama 6,6 scribed in this method or attempting to
mohair 11 Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
rabbit nytril distinguish between products of different weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
vicuna olefin suppliers of the same generic types, one term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
wool lastol must consult standard texts on fiber iden- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
yak polyethylene tification or technical bulletins issued by as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
polypropylene
polybenzimidazole suppliers of man-made fibers. See refer- posure which should be met (see 12.1).
Fibroin (Animal) polyester ences Section 13.
silk elastrelle
Bombyx (cultivated) rayon 5. Apparatus (see 12.2)
tussah (wild) cuprammonium 3. Terminology
lyocell 5.1 Compound microscope with matched
viscose 3.1 For definitions of technical terms, re- objectives and eye pieces to achieve mag-
rubber fer to the AATCC M11 in this Manual of In- nifications of 100-500× and equipped
saran ternational Test Methods and Procedures. with a polarizer and analyzer.
spandex
triexta 5.2 Glass slides and cover glasses.
Mineral vinal 4. Safety Precautions 5.3 Dissection needles.
asbestos vinyon 5.4 Scissors (small) and tweezers (fine).
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.5 Cross-sectioning device of one
2. Use and Limitations type such as listed below.
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
2.1 This test method describes a num- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.5.1 Stainless steel plate, 2.54 × 7.62
ber of procedures—microscopical exami- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use × 0.0254 cm (1 × 3 × 0.01 in.) drilled
nation, solubility in solvents, melting safe and proper techniques in handling with 0.09 cm (0.04 in.) diameter holes.
point, refractive index, and micro-Fourier materials in this test method. Manufac- Soft copper magnet wire AWG #34,
0.016 cm (0.0063 in.) diameter.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Transform Infrared Spectroscopy—which turers MUST be consulted for specific

should be used in combination to identify details such as material safety data sheets 5.5.2 Microtome, hand.
a fiber type. For identifying certain fibers and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.6 Razor blades, sharp, thin, single
some procedures will be found to be tions. All OSHA standards and rules edge or double edge with holder.
more effective than others. must also be consulted and followed. 5.7 Density gradient tube, glass ap-
2.1.1 For example, microscopical ex- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should proximately 2.5 cm (1 in.) in diameter

64 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
viewing the specimen at low magnifica- ter if not cooled during mixing. After the solution, rinse well with water and dry.
tion. The instrument should have a range solution has cooled to 20°C (68°F) adjust 8.4 To strip dye from colored fibers,
of 100-300°C or more, and an accuracy the density to a value between 1.4902 and especially the cellulosic fibers, heat for
of ± 1 degree over the entire range. 1.4956 g per mL. 30 min at 50°C with hydrosulfite caustic
5.9 Micro-FTIR Instrument. 6.5.11 Sulfuric acid solution, (70 ± 1% solution (see 6.2.1).
5.10 Differential Scanning Calorimeter. by weight, density 1.6105 ± 0.0116 g per
mL at 20°C). Weigh 70 g of concentrated
sulfuric acid (sp gr 1.84) and 30 g of 9. Procedure
6. Reagents and Materials (see 12.2)
water and mix with the same precautions 9.1 The identification of fibers is usu-
6.1 Mounting Reagents. as in 6.5.10. After the solution has cooled ally carried out by subjecting specimens
6.1.1 Mineral oil, U.S.P. or other im- to 20°C (68°F) adjust the density to a value to a variety of selected tests until enough
mersion fluid. between 1.5989 and 1.6221 g per mL. information is obtained to make a satis-
6.1.2 Collodion, solution of nitrocellu- 6.5.12 m-Cresol, reagent grade. Poi- factory judgment as to the generic class
lose (4 g/100 mL) in 1:3 alcohol/ethyl sonous. Use in ventilated hood. or specific type. The selection of tests
ether. 6.5.13 Hydrofluoric acid, 49% reagent and order in which they are performed
6.2 Bleaching Reagent. grade. Very dangerous. Use goggles and can change depending on the knowledge
6.2.1 Hydrosulfite-caustic solution. hood under suction. Do not inhale vapors already available and results of the pre-
Dissolve 2 g sodium hydrosulfite and 2 g or allow to contact skin. liminary tests.
sodium hydroxide in 100 mL of water. 9.2 Visual and Microscopical Exami-
6.3 Staining Reagents. 7. Sampling nation.
6.3.1 Zinc chloro-iodide reagent. Dis- 9.2.1 Examine the sample of material
solve 20 g of zinc chloride in 10 mL of 7.1 To obtain a representative sample submitted for identification. Note form
water. Add 2.1 g of potassium iodide and for identification it is necessary to con- (loose fibers, yarn, fabric, etc.), color, fi-
0.1 g of iodine dissolved in 5 mL of wa- sider the following: ber length and fineness, uniformity of
ter. Add a leaf of iodine. 7.1.1 If the sample is loose fiber or appearance and probable end-use. If
6.3.2 Acid phloroglucinol reagent. Dis- yarn, it may contain one fiber only or it the sample is a fabric, separate out yarns
solve 2 g of phloroglucinol in 100 mL of may be an intimate blend of two or more by unraveling or cutting. If the fabric
water. Use with equal volume of concen- fibers. is woven, separate warp and filling
trated hydrochloric acid. 7.1.2 A yarn sample may be a ply or yarns. If yarns differ in color, luster, size
6.4 Refractive Index Immersion Liq- wrapped core blend of two or more yarns. or other apparent ways, make a physical
uids. These yarns in turn may be the same or separation of these yarns for separate
6.4.1 Hexadecane (cetane) C. P. Grade, different and may themselves contain a identification.
RI = 1.434. blend of fibers. 9.2.2 The fibers may be identified using
6.4.2 Alpha chloronaphthalene, RI = 7.1.3 Woven or knitted fabrics may be either light or scanning electron micros-
1.633. Poisonous. Avoid inhaling vapors. constructed of yarns from one fiber type copy. If using transmitted light micros-
6.4.3 Blends of the above. Assume that or from yarns made with multiple fiber copy, place a small quantity of the fibers
the refractive index varies linearly by types. Further, fabrics may be made with on a glass slide, tease fibers apart, mount
volume of ingredients. For example, to yarns that have different individual fiber with a drop of mineral oil or other immer-
make a liquid of RI = 1.550 mix 42 parts types or multiple fiber types in the length sion fluid, cover with a cover slip and ex-
by volume of hexadecane with 58 parts or width directions of the fabric construc- amine under the microscope.
by volume of alpha chloronaphthalene. tion, that may require separate analysis. 9.2.3 Observe the fiber characteristics
6.5 Fiber Solvents. 7.1.4 Different fiber types may be dyed as seen in traverse section and classify
6.5.1 Acetic acid, glacial. Corrosive. to the same color. Contrarywise, the same into four general classes.
Do not get in eyes or on skin. fiber type may appear in different colors 9.2.4 Fibers with surface scales. These
6.5.2 Acetone, reagent grade. (CAU- in the finished article by mixing stock are the animal hair fibers listed in Pur-
TION: Highly flammable.) dyed or yarn dyed materials or using fi- pose and Scope (see 1.3). All of the natu-
6.5.3 Sodium hypochlorite solution, bers with modified dyeing characteristics. ral protein fibers listed except silk are in-
5%. Home laundry bleach is satisfactory. 7.1.5 It is essential that the specimens cluded in this group. Continue detailed
6.5.4 Hydrochloric acid, concentrated selected represent the entire sample of microscopical examination including
reagent, 20%. Dilute 50 mL of concen- raw fiber, yarn or fabric under examin- cross-section examination (see 9.3).
trated hydrochloric acid, 38%, to 95 mL ation. Compare with the characteristics in Table
with distilled water. I, photographs in the appendix of this
6.5.5 Formic acid, 85%. Corrosive. Do 8. Specimen Preparation method, and known specimens of hair fi-
not get in eyes or on skin. bers (see 12.3). Cashmere is the fine (de-
6.5.6 1,4-Dioxane. 8.1 In many cases the identity of an un- haired) undercoat fibers produced by a
6.5.7 m-Xylene. known fiber can be established without Cashmere goat (Capria hircus laniger).
6.5.8 Cyclohexanone. pretreatment. The fiber is generally non-medullated
6.5.9 Dimethylformamide. (CAUTION: 8.2 When the presence of starch, wax, and has a mean maximum diameter of 19
If spilled on skin, wash off immediately.) oil or other coating obscures the appear- microns. The coefficient of variation

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 65

Longitudinal Section: Linen Hemp Ramie

Chemical (colorimetric) and/or instru- Ratio, lumen of fiber diameter under 1/ 3 usually over 1/ 3 over 1/ 3
mental (Atomic Absorption Spectropho- Cell ends pointed blunt or forked blunt
tometric, Inductively Coupled Plasma Cross-Section:
Spectrometry and/or Energy Dispersive Contour sharp polygon rounded polygon elongated polygon
X-ray or X-ray Fluorescence) analyses Lumen round or oval irregular irregular
should be performed to confirm their
presence.
Examples of x-ray and elemental analy- 9.3.1 Obtain a parallel bundle of fibers ficient fibers to pack the hole full. If nec-
sis are provided in the AATCC Fiber or yarn. Thread a loop of copper wire essary, use some extra, readily identifi-
Identification Supplement (see 12.4). through one hole in the stainless steel able other fiber to fill up the hole.
9.3 Microscopical Cross-Section Ex- plate. Catch the bundle or yarn in the 9.3.2 With a sharp razor blade make a
amination. loop and pull it through the hole. Use suf- smooth cut on both sides of the plate.

66 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

or gray
tion. anidex yes no yes yes brittle black
9.4.4 The test can be seen best with irregular bead
round fibers. On flat ribbons it may be rayon no no yes yes none
easier to see movement of a bright line— aramid no yes yes no hard black
the Becke line—at the outlines of the fi- bead
novoloid no no brief no carbon
ber. Movement is in the same direction,
toward the medium of higher refractive triexta yes yes yes yes hard black
index as the focus is raised. round bead

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 67

polyester 1.71-1.73 1.53-1.54 intense 1.38 or 250-260 Turn the heat on and set the heating rate
or 1.63 1.23 or 282 for fast heating. Observe the thermometer
polyethylene 1.56-0.00 1.51-0.00 strong 0.90-0.92 135 and the sample. When the temperature
polypropylene 1.56-0.00 1.51-0.00 strong 0.90-0.92 170 reaches 100°C, reduce the rate of heating.
rayon 1.54-1.56 1.51-1.53 strong 1.51 none
rubber opaque — 0.96-1.06 none
(If previous tests already indicate the fi-
saran 1.61-0.00 1.61-0.00 weak, negative 1.70 168 ber, the rate can be set at about 10°C per
spandex opaque — 1.20-1.21 230 min until 10-20°C below the expected
triexta 1.57-0.00 — — 1.33 226-233 melting point.) Near the melting point the
vinal 1.55-0.00 1.52-0.00 strong 1.26-1.30 — rate should be reduced to about 2°C per
vinyon 1.53-1.54 1.53-0.00 weak, negative 1.34-1.37 230 or min.
400 9.10.3 Observe the fibers for evidence
of softening. At the melting point, liquid
*Not sharp. Sticking point is 176°C.
begins to form which wets the cover slip.
Fibers eventually merge and form a liq-
umn as follows. Clamp the density gradi- 10 mg of fiber. uid mass. As the test is in progress it is
ent glass tube in a firm vertical stand. 9.7.2 If the test is conducted at the boil- sometimes helpful to press gently on the
Pour into the tube 25 mL of tetrachloro- ing point of the solvent, first bring the cover slip with tweezers to see if the fi-
ethylene. Now prepare mixtures of xy- solvent to a boil in a beaker on an electric bers flatten under pressure. If this melting
lene and tetrachloroethylene by volume hot plate in a ventilated hood. Adjust the point is passed at a high heating rate, re-
in descending order of percent tetrachlo- hot plate temperature to maintain slow peat the test with a fresh sample.
roethylene: 90/10, 80/20, 70/30, 60/40, boiling and keep watch so that the solvent 9.10.4 Compare the melting point
50/50, 40/60, 30/70, 20/80 and 10/90. does not boil dry. Drop fiber sample into found with those listed in Table IV.
Pour 25 mL of each in order carefully the boiling solvent. 9.10.5 Microscope Mounted Apparatus.
down the side of the gradient tube. Fi- 9.7.3 If the test is conducted at some 9.10.6 Place a few fibers on one of the
nally, put 25 mL of xylene on top. intermediate temperature, heat a beaker small glass slides provided and cover
9.6.2 Take short fragments of dyed ref- of water on a hot plate and adjust the tem- with a cover slip. Place the slide on the
erence fibers and tie in a knot snipping off perature with a thermometer. Place the fi- stage of the microscope with the fibers
loose ends. Boil for about 2 min in xylene ber sample in the test solvent in a test over the central hole of the stage. Put the
solvent to remove moisture and air. Place tube and immerse in the heated water baffle and cover plate in place.
in the column. After about a half hour bath. 9.10.7 Insert the polarizing accessories
they should come to rest at the level rep- 9.7.4 Note if the fiber dissolves com- in the optical path of the microscope to
resenting their density. Calibrated glass pletely, softens to a plastic mass or re- provide crossed polars. The fibers should
spheres may be used to determine the ac- mains insoluble. Compare with data on be visible if aligned diagonally to the di-
tual density at various levels. fiber solubility in Table V. rection of polarization. If fibers are not
9.6.3 Prepare the unknown fiber in like 9.7.5 Solubility can also be used as a visible under these lighting conditions,
manner, place in the gradient column and test to determine the presence of a metal remove the polarizing accessories and
note at what level it floats. Densities of fi- component in a fiber. On dissolving in observe in ordinary transmitted light.
bers are listed in Table IV. meta-cresol a shiny residue is evidence of 9.10.8 Set a high heating rate with the
9.7 Solubility Test. a metal component. voltage regulator until the temperature
9.7.1 For tests at room temperature 9.8 Drying Twist Test. reaches 100°C. Reduce the rate as the ex-
(20°C) place a small sample of the fibers 9.8.1 Separate out a few parallel fibers. pected melting point is approached as di-
in a watch crystal, test tube or 50 mL bea- Dip in water and squeeze off excess. Tap rected in 9.10.2.
ker and cover with the test solvent (see the end of the bundle to make separate fi- 9.10.9 Observe the fibers. As melting
Table V). Use about 1 mL of solvent per bers flare out. Hold over a hot plate in takes place there is a decrease in birefrin-

68 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

hydrofluoric acid
cyclohexanone
hypochlorite

hydrochloric

sulfuric acid

sulfuric acid
1,4 dioxane
formic acid

formamide
acetic acid

m-xylene

m-cresol
dimethyl
acetone

sodium

acid
Concentration (%) 100 100 5 20 85 100 100 100 100 59.5 70 100 50
Temperature (°C) 20 20 20 20 20 101 139 156 90 20.0 38 139 50
Time (minutes) 5 5 20 10 5 5 5 5 10 20.0 20 5 20
acetate S S I I S S I S S S S S
acrylic I I I I I I I I S I I P I
anidex I I I I I I I I I I I I
aramid I I I I I I I I I I I I I
azlon I I S
cotton & linen I I I I I I I I I I S I I
glass I I I I I I I I I I I I S
modacrylic I SE I I I SP I S *SP* I I P
novoloid I I I I I I I I I I I I †I†
nylon I I I S S I I I I S S S
nytril I I I I I I I S S I I SP
olefin I I I I I I S S I I I I
polybenzimidazole I I I I I I I I I I I I I

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
polyester I I I I I I I I I I I S I
rayon I I I I I I I I I S S I I
saran I I I I I S S S S I I I
silk I I S I I I I I I S S I
spandex I I I I I I I S S SP SP SP
teflon I I I I I I I I I I I I
triexta I I I I I I I I I I I S I
vinal S S I I I I S S I
vinyon I S I I I S S S S I I S
wool I I S I I I I I I I I I

S = Soluble SE = Soluble except for one modacrylic fiber characterized by low flammability and liquid inclusions visible in cross-section.
I = Insoluble * = Soluble at 20°C without plastic mass.
P = Forms plastic mass † = Novoloid turns red
SP = Soluble or forms plastic mass

gence; the fibers become dark. Read as 12.2 For potential equipment information niques and illustrations.
melting point the temperature at which pertaining to this test method, please visit 13.4 Wildman A. B., The Microscopy of
the fibers become completely dark. If the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. Animal Textile Fibers, Wool Industries Re-
crossed polars are not used, observe melt- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility search Association, Torridon, Leeds, England,
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 1954.
ing as described in 9.10.2. Corporate members, but AATCC does not 13.5 Appleyard, H. M., Guide to the Identi-
9.10.10 Compare the melting point qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- fication of Animal Fibers, same publisher as
found with those listed in Table IV. tify that any of the listed equipment or 13.4, 1960. Both contain excellent descrip-
9.11 Micro-FTIR. materials meets the requirements in its test tions and photomicrographs.
9.11.1 Compare FTIR spectra with methods. 13.6 Man-Made Fiber Producers Associa-
FTIR spectra in Appendix II or other li- 12.3 Reference samples, along with interlab tion, Man-Made Fiber Fact Book, New York,
brary sources (see Appendix II—Figs. 1-9). data, of cashmere and wool, both separate and 1970. Revised annually. List of current fibers
combined, are available from AATCC, P.O. made in United States.
10. Report Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 13.7 Man-Made Textiles, Index to Man-
27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919. Made Fibers of the World, Third Edition, Har-
10.1 Report the fiber type and, if more 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web lequin Press, Manchester 2, England, 1967.
than one type is present, where each is lo- site: www.aatcc.org. Lists about 2,000 man-made fibers by trade-
cated. For example, the report could be 12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box mark names and their suppliers.
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 13.8 Linton, G. E., Natural and Man-Made
“woven fabric with nylon 6,6 warp and Textile Fibers, Duell, Sloan and Pearce. New
cotton/rayon filling.” +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. York, 1966. History and technology, espe-
cially of natural fibers.
11. Precision and Bias 13.9 Potter, D. M. and Corbman, B. P.,
13. References Textiles: Fibers to Fabric, Fourth Edition,
11.1 A precision and bias statement is McGraw-Hill, New York, 1967. A textbook
not applicable because data are not gener- 13.1 The Textile Institute, Identification of with section on fiber identification.
ated by this method. Textile Materials, Sixth Edition, C. Tinling & 13.10 Chamot, E. M., and Mason, C. W.,
Co., London, 1970. Chemical Microscopy, Vol. I on Physical
12. Notes 13.2 Federal Trade Commission, “Rules Methods, Third Edition, John Wiley & Sons,
and Regulations Under the Textile Fiber Prod- New York, 1950. A classical textbook with
12.1 Available from Publications Office, ucts Identification Act,” as amended 1969, various references to fibers.
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Washington, DC 20580, www.ftc.gov. 13.11 IWTO Draft Test Method 58-97,
Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; 13.3 Heyn, A. N. J., Fiber Microscopy, A “Quantitative Analysis of Blends of Wool
tel: +1.513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih. Text Book and Laboratory Manual, Inter- with Specialty Fibers by Scanning Electron
org. science, New York, 1954. Old, but good tech- Microscope.” Describes method for distin-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 69

70 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 1—Cotton, not mercerized. Fig. 2—Cotton, mercerized. Fig. 3—Linen.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 4—Hemp. Fig. 5—Jute. Fig. 6—Ramie.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 71

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 7—Sisal. Fig. 8—Abaca. Fig. 9—Kenaf.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 10—Phormium. Fig. 11—Wool. Fig. 12—Mohair.

72 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Longitudinal View 240X Longitudinal View 1500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 13—Cashmere. Fig. 13A—SEM (Cashmere). Fig. 14—Camel hair.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 115X

Longitudinal View 240X Longitudinal View 240X Longitudinal View 230X

Fig. 15—Alpaca. Fig. 16—Vicuna. Fig. 17—Horsehair.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 73
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 18—Rabbit fur. Fig. 19—Silk. Fig. 20—Silk, tussah.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 21—Asbestos. Fig. 22—Acetate, secondary. Fig. 23—Triacetate, 2.5 denier (0.28 tex)
per filament, dull luster.

74 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 24—Acrylic, reg. wet spun, semi-dull. Fig. 25—Acrylic, modified wet spun, 3.0 Fig. 26—Acrylic, solvent spun.
denier (0.33 tex) per filament, semi-dull
luster.
Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 100X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 100X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 27—Acrylic, two-component, 3.0 Fig. 28—Anidex. Fig. 29—Glass.

denier (0.33 tex) per filament, semi-dull
luster.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM20-2021 75
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Cross-Section 100X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 100X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 30—Metallic. Fig. 31—Modacrylic. Fig. 32—Modacrylic.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 33—Modacrylic, 3.0 denier (0.33 Fig. 34—Modacrylic with liquid inclusions. Fig. 35—Nylon, bright.
tex) per filament, dull luster.

76 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 36—Nylon, low modification ratio Fig. 37—Nylon, high modification ratio Fig. 38—Nytril, 2.0 denier (0.22 tex) per
trilobal, 15 denier (1.65 tex) per trilobal, 18 denier (1.98 tex) per filament, filament, dull luster.
filament, bright luster. semi-dull.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 39—Polyethylene, low density. Fig. 40—Polyethylene, medium density. Fig. 41—Polyethylene, high density.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 77

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 42—Polyester, regular melt spun, Fig. 43—Polyester, low modification ratio Fig. 44—Rayon, cuprammonium, 1.3
3.0 denier (0.33 tex) per filament, semi- trilobal, 1.4 denier (0.15 tex) per filament, denier (0.14 tex) per filament, bright
dull. semi-dull luster. luster.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 45—Rayon, viscose. Regular tenacity, Fig. 46—Rayon, viscose. High tenacity, Fig. 47—Rayon, viscose. High tenacity,
brt. high wet elongation. low wet elongation.

78 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 48—Rayon, saponified acetate. 0.8 Fig. 49—Rayon, viscose. Modified, 3.0 Fig. 50—Rayon, viscose. Modified, 1.5
denier (0.09 tex) per filament, bright denier (0.33 tex) per filament, bright denier (0.17 tex) per filament, bright
luster. luster. luster.
Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 65X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 65X Longitudinal View 250X

Fig. 51—Rayon, viscose. Modified, 1.5 Fig. 52—Saran. Fig. 53—Saran, 16 denier (1.76 tex) per
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`

denier (0.17 tex) per filament, semi-dull filament, bright luster.

luster.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 79

Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 250X Longitudinal View 500X

Fig. 54—Spandex, adhering filaments, 12 Fig. 55—Spandex, coarse mono- Fig. 56—Fluorocarbon.
denier (1.32 tex) per filament, dull luster. filaments, 250 denier (27.50 tex) per
filament, dull luster.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 600X Cross-Section 600X

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 600X Longitudinal View 600X

Fig. 57—Vinyon. Fig. 58—Aramid, round, high-tenacity Fig. 59—Aramid, FR staple fiber.
filament.

80 AATCC TM20-2021 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 1500X Scanning Electron Photomicrograph (10 µm)

Fig. 60—Novoloid. Fig. 61—Permanently crimped lyocell Fig. 62—Uncrimped lyocell fiber.
fiber.

Cross-Section 500X Cross-Section 500X

Longitudinal View 500X Longitudinal View 1500X Longitudinal View 100X

Fig. 63—Yak. Fig. 63A—SEM of Yak. Fig. 64—Polybenzimidazole.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 81

Fig. 1—Poly(ethylene) Ultra High Molecular Weight Fig. 2—Poly(propylene)

Fig. 3—Poly(ethyleneterephthalate) Fig. 4—Poly(phenyleneterephthalamide)

Fig. 5—Poly(m-phenyleneisophthalamide) Fig. 6—Cotton

82 AATCC TM20-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Fig. 9—Nylon 6 Fiber Fig. 10—Polybenzimidazole

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20-2021 83

Test Method for Fiber Analysis: Quantitative

1. Purpose and Scope dard Table of Commercial Moisture Re- for information purposes only. The pre-
gains for Textile Fibers, can be used for cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
1.1 This method presents individual this purpose. dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
procedures for the quantitative determi- 2.3 The procedure for determining fi- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
nation of moisture content, nonfibrous ber composition by mechanical separa- safe and proper techniques in handling
content and fiber composition of textiles. tion is applicable to those textiles materials in this test method. Manufac-
1.2 The procedures for the determina- wherein the different fibers making up its turers MUST be consulted for specific
tion of fiber composition include me- composition are segregated in separate details such as material safety data sheets
chanical, chemical and microscopical yarns, or plies, in the textile product. and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
methods. They are applicable to blends of 2.4 The chemical procedures for fiber tions. All OSHA standards and rules
the following generic classes: composition described herein are applica- must also be consulted and followed.
ble to most of the current, commercial 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
Natural Fibers Man-Made Fibers production fibers within each generic be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
Cotton Acetate class listed. Known exceptions are noted laboratory areas.
Hair Acrylic in Table II. However, there may be in- 4.2 All chemicals should be handled
Hemp Aramid (see 17.17) stances in which a method may not be with care.
Linen meta-aramid fully adequate for a newly developed fi- 4.3 Perform the soxhlet extractions in
Ramie para-aramid ber falling within one of the listed generic Section 9, Nonfibrous Material—Clean
Silk Modacrylic classes and for re-used and/or physically Fiber Content, using hexane and ethyl al-
Wool Nylon (see 17.1) or chemically modified fibers. Caution cohol inside an adequately ventilated lab-
Olefin should be exercised when applying these oratory hood. CAUTION: Hexane and
Polybenzimidazole (see 17.17) methods to such cases. ethyl alcohol are highly flammable.
Polyester 2.5 The microscopical procedures for fi- 4.4 Perform Chemical Analysis Proce-
Rayon ber composition are applicable to all fibers dure No. 1 (Table II, 100% acetone) in-
Spandex and their accuracy depends to a consider- side a ventilated laboratory hood. CAU-
Triexta able extent upon the ability of the analyst TION: Acetone is highly flammable.
to identify the individual fibers present. 4.5 Hexane, ethyl alcohol and acetone
2. Uses and Limitations However, owing to the tedious nature of are flammable liquids and should be
this technique, its use is generally limited stored in the laboratory only in small
2.1 The procedure given for the removal quantities away from heat, open flame
to those mixtures which cannot be sepa-
of nonfibrous materials will remove most, rated mechanically or chemically; e.g., and sparks.
but not all, of these components. Each mixtures of hair and wool and mixtures of 4.6 In preparing, dispensing, and han-
treatment is applicable only to certain cat- dling hydrochloric acid (20%), sulfuric
cotton, linen, hemp and/or ramie.
egories of these substances and no general acids (59.5% and 70%), and formic acid
scheme can be given that is all inclusive. (90%) used in Chemical Analysis Proce-
2.1.1 Some of the newer finishes may 3. Terminology
dure Methods No. 2, 3, 4, and 6 (Table
present special problems and the analyst 3.1 clean-fiber content, n.—the amount II), use chemical goggles or face shield,
will have to deal with these cases as they of fiber after removal of nonfibrous impervious gloves and an impervious
arise. Thermosetting resins and crosslink- content. apron. Concentrated acids should be han-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ing latices are not only difficult to re- 3.2 fiber, n.—in textiles, a generic dled only in an adequately ventilated lab-
move but in some cases cannot be wholly term for any one of the various types of oratory hood. CAUTION: Always add
removed without destroying the fiber. matter that form the basic elements of a acid to water.
2.1.2 When it is necessary to modify a textile and which are generally character- 4.7 In preparing ammonium hydroxide
procedure, or use a new one, one should ized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio (8:92) for use in Chemical Analysis Pro-
make sure that the fibrous portion of the of length to thickness. cedure Method No. 4 (Table II, 70% sul-
specimen under test is not attacked. 3.3 moisture content, n.—that part of furic acid), use chemical goggles or face
2.2 Fiber composition is generally ex- the total mass of a material that is ab- shield, impervious gloves and an imper-
pressed in the laboratory either on the sorbed or adsorbed water, compared to vious apron. Dispense, mix and handle
oven-dry weight of the textile as received the total mass. ammonium hydroxide only in an ade-
or on the oven-dry weight of the clean fi- 3.4 nonfibrous content, n.—products quately ventilated laboratory hood.
ber after nonfibrous materials are first re- such as fiber finishes, yarn lubricants, 4.8 An eyewash/safety shower should
moved from the textile before the fiber slasher sizing, fabric softeners, starches, be located nearby and a self-contained
analysis is carried out, or if the treatments china-clay, soaps, waxes, oils and resins breathing apparatus should be readily
described in Section 9 are incapable of re- which are applied to fiber, yarn, fabric or available for emergency use.
moving them, any such materials present apparel. 4.9 Exposure to chemicals used in this
will increase the percentage of the fiber 3.5 Additional terms used in this test procedure must be controlled at or below
constituent with which they are removed method can be found in standard chemi- levels set by governmental authorities
during the analysis. cal dictionaries, in dictionaries of com- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
When used in commerce for the repre- mon terms or in AATCC M11. Administration’s [OSHA] permissible
sentation of the nominal fiber content of exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29
end use items such as garments, moisture 4. Safety Precautions CFR 1910.1000; see web site: www.
regain is typically added back to bone dry osha.gov for latest version). In addition,
numbers generated. ASTM D1909, Stan- NOTE: These safety precautions are the American Conference of Govern-

84 AATCC TM20A-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
glass, 250 mL capacity. based household bleach (nominally 7.1.2 If a reasonably large lot is avail-
5.9 Filtering crucible, fritted glass, 5.25%) has been found to be acceptable. able, and if it is possible to do so, sam-
coarse porosity, 30 mL. 6.11 Sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3) (1%). plings should be taken from different,
Freshly prepared. widely separated areas or parts of the lot.
5.10 Suction flask, with adapter, to 7.1.3 In the case of fabrics where there
hold filtering crucible. 6.12 Formic acid (HCOOH) (90%), sp
gr of 1.202 at 20°C. is a definite repetition in the pattern, the
5.11 Weighing bottle, large enough to sample should include all yarns in a com-
hold filtering crucible. 6.13 Ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH)
(8:92). Mix 8 volumes of NH4OH, sp gr plete pattern (see 17.4).
5.12 Microscope, equipped with a 7.1.4 In the case of yarns, not less than
moveable stage and a cross-hair ocular, 0.90, with 92 volumes of water.
6.14 Herzberg stain. Add the previ- a 2-meter length should be taken.
200-250× magnification.
5.13 Projection microscope, capable of ously prepared solution A to solution B;
500× magnification. allow to stand overnight; decant the clear
Test Methods
liquid into a dark colored glass bottle and
5.14 Fiber cutter: A device comprised add a leaf of iodine.
of two razor blades, a threaded pin and 8. Moisture Content
an assemblage that will hold the blades
rigidly in position. The device is operated Solution A Solution B 8.1 Procedure. Place not less than 1 g
by applying pressure vertically down- Zinc Chloride 50 g Potassium of the textile to be tested in a previously
ward. It cuts fibers approximately 250 µm Iodide 5.5 g tared weighing bottle and immediately
in length. Water 25 mL Iodine 0.25 g replace the cover. Weigh to the nearest
5.15 Wedge scale: Strips of heavy pa- Water 12.5 mL 0.1 mg using the analytical balance and
per or Bristol board imprinted with a record the weight. Place the uncovered
wedge for use at 500× magnification. weighing bottle containing the specimen
5.16 Flask cover (see 17.16). in an oven maintained at 105-110°C for
5.17 Wet grinder/polisher equipped 1.5 h. At the end of the time period, re-
44.50 mm
move the bottle from the oven, immedi-
12.70 mm

with 10 in platen for use with 10-in. abra-

sive discs. ately replace the cover and put it in the
desiccator. When the bottle and contents
5.18 Adhesive-backed abrasive discs,
have cooled to room temperature, remove
10-in. (grit: 120, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800,
6.35 mm them from the desiccator and reweigh.
1200).
19.00 × Repeat the heating and reweighing pro-
5.19 1-gallon vacuum chamber with cess for periods of 30 min until the
pump capable of maintaining vacuum 19.00 mm
25.40 mm

weight is constant to within ± 0.001 g and

pressure of at least 25 in-Hg. record the constant weight.
5.20 2-piece castable mounting cups, 8.2 Calculations.
1.5 in. 8.2.1 Calculate the moisture content of
5.21 Rigid mounting card: non-absor- the specimen as follows:
bent yarn sample mounting card for use 31.75 mm
with epoxy resin mounting method. See
Fig. 1 for dimensions suitable for 1.5-in. A–B
Fig. 1—Rigid Mounting Card M = ------------- × 100
sample cups. (all tolerances are ±0.38 mm). A–T

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20A-2021 85

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
constant weight. yarns into lengths not greater than 3 mm, the crucible any residue left in the flask
9.1.5 Acid Treatment (for removal of thoroughly mix the cut pieces and then using a little more 20% hydrochloric
amino resins). Immerse the dried speci- take a representative portion for the spe- acid. Apply suction to drain the excess li-
men in 100 times its weight of 0.1N HCl cific determination. An alternate proce- quor from the filter residue. Wash the
at 80°C for 25 min, stirring occasionally. dure, suitable in many cases, is to grind residue in the crucible with about 40 mL
Rinse thoroughly with hot water and dry the sample using a Wiley Mill, homoge- of 20% hydrochloric acid and then with
at 105-110°C to constant weight. nize the ground fibers by slurrying them water until the filtrate is neutral to litmus.
9.2 Calculations. in a water suspension in a Waring Disconnect the suction and add to the
9.2.1 Calculate the nonfibrous content Blender and taking the representative crucible about 25 mL of ammonium hy-
of the specimen as follows: portion from the dried homogenate for droxide (8:92) allowing the fiber residue
the specific determination. Yarns are to soak for 10 min before applying suc-
treated the same way but omitting the un- tion to drain it. Wash the residue with
C–D necessary steps. about 250 mL of water, allowing it to
N = -------------- × 100
C 11.2 Method Application. A tabula- soak in the water for about 15 min. After
tion of appropriate chemical treatments the final washing, apply suction to re-
where: for binary fiber mixtures is given in Table move rinse water, and dry the crucible
N = nonfibrous materials, percent. I. To use this table one enters at the left and residue in an oven at 105-110°C to
C = dry weight, specimen, before side on the line listing one of the compo- constant weight. Record the dry weight to
treatment. nents of the binary mixture and moves to the nearest 0.1 mg.

86 AATCC TM20A-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
9 alkaline methanol section 12.9
10 xylenes section 12.10
11 4% lithium chloride in
N,N-dimethylacetamide section 12.11
12 Cyclohexanone section 12.12

12.3 Method No. 3, 59.5% Sulfuric for 10 min before applying suction to left in the flask using three 10 mL ali-
acid: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g por- drain it. Wash the residue with about 150 quots of 70% sulfuric acid. Apply suction
tion of the clean, dry, prepared specimen mL of water, allowing it to soak in the to drain the excess liquor from the fiber
and record the weight to the nearest 0.1 water for about 15 min. After the final residue after the addition of each aliquot.
mg. Transfer into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer washing, apply suction to remove the Wash the residue in the crucible with 50
flask. Add 50-150 mL of 59.5% sulfuric rinse water and dry the crucible and fiber mL of sulfuric acid (1:19), then with wa-
acid (100 mL reagent/g of sample) and residue in an oven at 105-110°C to con- ter until the filtrate is neutral to litmus.
shake vigorously for 1 min. Let stand for stant weight. Record the weight of the dried Disconnect the suction and add to the
15 min at a temperature of 15-25°C. residue to the nearest 0.1 mg (see 17.7). crucible about 25 mL of ammonium hy-
Shake again and let stand for another 15 12.4 Method No. 4, 70% Sulfuric acid: droxide (8:92); allow the fiber residue to
min, shake for a third time (see 17.6) and Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g portion of soak for 10 min before applying suction
then filter the mixture through a dried the clean, dry, prepared specimen and to drain it. Wash the residue with about
weighed fritted-glass crucible. Wash into record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg. 150 mL of water, allowing it to soak in
the crucible any residue left in the flask Transfer into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask. the water for about 15 min. After the final
using three 10 mL aliquots of 59.5% sul- Add 50-150 mL of 70% sulfuric acid washing, apply suction to remove excess
furic acid. Apply suction to drain the ex- (100 mL reagent/g of sample) and shake water and dry the crucible and fiber resi-
cess liquor from the fiber residue after vigorously for 1 min. Let stand for 15 due in an oven at 105-110°C to constant
the addition of each aliquot. Wash the min at a temperature of 15-25°C. Shake weight. Record the weight of the dry resi-
residue in the crucible with 50 mL of sul- again and let stand for another 15 min; due to the nearest 0.1 mg.
furic acid (1:19), then with water until shake for a third time (see 17.6) and then 12.5 Method No. 5, Sodium hypochlo-
the filtrate is neutral to litmus. Discon- filter the mixture through a fritted-glass rite: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g portion
nect the suction and add to the crucible crucible which has been oven-dried, of the clean, dry, prepared specimen and
about 25 mL of ammonium hydroxide cooled in a desiccator and weighed to 0.1 record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg.
(8:92), allowing the fiber residue to soak mg. Wash into the crucible any residue Transfer into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20A-2021 87

*Depending on type
**Compatible for triexta
KEY TO SYMBOLS: S = SOLUBLE
PS = PARTIALLY SOLUBE (Method not applicable)
SS = SLIGHTLY SOLUBLE (Usable but correction factor required)
I = INSOLUBLE

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
NA = Not Applicable ND = Not Determined
Section 11.2 contains details of table use.

Add 50-150 mL of sodium hypochlorite acid to the flask and agitate for an addi- time rinsing well with 70% isopropanol,
reagent (100 mL reagent/g of sample). tional 15 min. Filter the contents of the and then filter the undissolved residue by
Use a wrist shaker or stir the specimen flask through the crucible, rinse with two suction through a dried, weighed fritted
vigorously in this solution for 20 min 50 mL portions of 90% formic acid and glass filtering crucible. Dry the crucible
making sure the temperature is main- drain with the aid of suction. Wash the and residue in air and then in an oven at
tained at 25 ± 1°C (use constant tempera- residue with 50 mL of water and then al- 105-110°C to constant weight. Record
ture bath) (see 17.8) and then filter low it to soak in 25 mL of ammonium hy- the weight of the dried residue to the
through a dried weighed, fritted-glass droxide (8:92) for about 10 min. Wash nearest 0.1 mg.
crucible. Wash thoroughly with sodium the residue thoroughly with water until 12.8 Method No. 8, N,N-Dimethylace-
bisulfite (1%) followed by water and re- the filtrate is neutral to litmus. Drain the tamide: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g por-
move the excess water by suction. After residue with the aid of suction and dry in tion of clean, dried, prepared specimen
the final washing, apply suction to re- an oven at 105-110°C to constant weight. and record the weight to the nearest 0.1
move excess water and dry in an oven at Record the weight of the dried residue to mg. Transfer to a 250 mL Erlenmeyer
105-110°C to constant weight. Record the nearest 0.1 mg. flask. Add 50-150 mL of N,N-dimethy-
the weight of the dried residue to the 12.7 Method No. 7, Dimethylforma- lacetamide reagent. Agitate for 20 min
nearest 0.1 mg. mide: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g por- keeping the temperature at 70 ± 1°C. De-
12.6 Method No. 6, 90% Formic acid: tion of the clean, dried, prepared speci- cant the liquid from the undissolved resi-
Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g portion of men and record the weight to the nearest due, add a fresh portion of the N,N-
the clean, dry, prepared specimen and 0.1 mg. Transfer to a 250 mL Erlenmeyer dimethylacetamide and agitate for a few
record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg. flask. Add 50-150 mL of dimethylforma- more minutes. Repeat the decanting and
Transfer into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask. mide reagent (100 mL reagent/g of sam- agitation process one more time rinsing
Add 50-150 mL of 90% formic acid (100 ple). Agitate for 20 min keeping the tem- well with 70% isopropanol, and then fil-
mL reagent/g of sample) and shake fre- perature at 98 ± 1°C. Decant the liquid ter the undissolved residue by suction
quently over a period of 15 min (see from the undissolved residue, add a fresh through a dried, weighed fritted glass fil-
17.9). Decant the supernatant liquid into portion of dimethylformamide and agi- tering crucible. Dry the crucible and resi-
a dried, weighed, fritted-glass crucible, tate for a few more minutes. Repeat the due in air then in an oven at 105-110°C to
add another equal portion of 90% formic decanting and agitation process one more constant weight. Record the weight of the

88 AATCC TM20A-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
dried residue to the nearest 0.1 mg. with a magnetic stirrer for 5-10 min. De- AATCC TM20
12.9 Method No. 9, Alkaline Metha- cant the liquid from the undissolved resi-
Herzberg stain (zinc chloro- Section 9.9.1
nol: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g portion due. Rinse well with 70% isopropanol iodide)
of clean dried, prepared specimen and and repeat the decanting and agitation Acid phloroglucinol reagent Section 9.9.2
record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg. process. Filter the undissolved residue by Longitudinal appearance Tables I and II
Add 18 g of reagent grade sodium hy- suction through a dried, weighed, fritted Cross-section appearance Tables I and II and
droxide in a pellet form to 200 mL of glass filtering crucible. Dry the crucible Appendix I
methanol (dissolution of the NaOH is and residue in air and then in an oven at
mildly exothermic) in a 250 mL Erlenm- 105-110°C to constant weight. Record
the weight of the dried residue to the It is recommended that reference tests
eyer flask. Heat to 65°C mixing thor- be made on known fibers rather than plac-
oughly. Add specimen and stir using a nearest 0.1 mg.
ing total reliance on photographic repro-
magnetic stirring bar and flask cover. Af- 12.13 Calculations: Calculate the con- ductions and word descriptions of colors.
ter 5 min of immersion, decant the liquid tent of each generic fiber type as deter-
from the undissolved residue, rinse using mined by any one of the above applicable
70% isopropanol and then filter the un- chemical methods using one of the fol- 14. Microscopical Analysis Procedures
dissolved residue by suction through a lowing equations: 14.1 Preparation of Slides.
dried, weighed, fritted glass filtering cru- 12.13.1 If the fiber is dissolved by the 14.1.1 Longitudinal Sections of Vege-
cible. Dry the crucible and residue in air test reagent: table Fibers (cotton, flax, ramie, etc.): A
and then in an oven at 105-110°C to con- swatch of fabric measuring at least 5 × 5
stant weight. Record the weight of the G–H cm should be available. Count the num-
dried residue to the nearest 0.1 mg. X i = ---------------i × 100
G ber of yarns in both the warp and filling
12.10 Method No. 10, Xylene: Weigh and select from each direction at random
accurately a 0.5-1.5 g of clean, dried, pre- a number of yarns that is proportional to
pared specimen and record the weight to 12.13.2 If the fiber is insoluble in the the fabric count. The combined number
the nearest 0.1 mg. Transfer to a 250 mL test reagent: of warp and filling yarns should total at
Erlenmeyer flask. Add 50-150 mL of xy- least 20 (see 17.10). If the sample is in
lenes under a fume hood and cover with a H yarn form, take at least a two-meter
flask cover. Heat to the boiling tempera- X i = -----i × 100
G length and, from it, cut not less than
ture and stir with a magnetic stirrer for 20 twenty 5-cm sections at random. Cut ap-
min. Decant the liquid from the undis- proximately 2.5 cm of each yarn, or yarn
solved residue. Rinse well with 70% iso- where:
section, into lengths of 0.5-1 mm. The
propanol, and repeat the decanting and Xi = content of fiber i, percent. shorter the lengths the easier it is to pre-
agitation process. Filter the undissolved G = weight of clean, dry, prepared pare a homogeneous fiber suspension.
residue by suction through a dried, specimen Collect the cut fibers on a paper of con-
weighed, fritted glass filtering crucible. Hi = weight of dried residue after trasting color and transfer to a 125 mL
Dry the crucible and residue in air and treatment Erlenmeyer flask. Add sufficient water so
then in an oven at 105-110°C to constant that after stoppering the flask and shaking
weight. Record the weight of the dried 13. Microscopical Analysis, General the contents, a uniform and fairly dense
residue to the nearest 0.1 mg. fiber suspension is obtained. Quick boil-
12.11 Method No. 11, 4% Lithium 13.1 The following procedure may be ing or the addition of a few glass pellets
Chloride in N,N-Dimethylacetamide: used for the quantitative analysis of tex- facilitates the separation of the fibers. Us-
Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g portion of tiles containing two or more fiber types ing a glass-marking pencil, draw two par-
the clean, dried, prepared specimen and which cannot be separated readily by me- allel lines about 1 in. apart across a glass
record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg. chanical or chemical methods. The pro- slide. With a wide-mouth pipette, draw
Transfer to a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask. cedures rely on the ability of a technician 0.5-1 mL of the well shaken suspension
Add 50-150 mL of 4% lithium chloride to identify and count, by means of a mi- and place it between the two reference
in N,N-dimethylacetamide reagent (100 croscope, the relative number of fibers of lines on the slide. The amount of liquid
mL reagent/g of sample). Agitate for 180 each type in a prepared specimen. Such a taken is dependent upon the density of
min keeping the temperature at 65 ± 1°C. count will result in a percent blend by the suspension. Just sufficient liquid
Decant the liquid from the undissolved number of fibers. In order to convert this should be placed on the slide so that—af-
residue, add a fresh portion of 4% lithium result to a percent by weight, the size of ter evaporation—a thin, uniform film of
chloride and agitate for 5-10 min. Repeat the fibers being counted and their respec- fibers remains. After all of the moisture
the decanting and agitation process one tive densities must be included in the cal- has evaporated from the slide, stain the
more time rinsing well with 70% isopro- culation. fibers with Herzberg stain and cover with
panol, and then filter the undissolved res- 13.2 Microscope slides may be pre- a cover glass.
idue by suction through a dried, weighed pared to scan longitudinal or cross-section 14.1.2 Longitudinal Sections of Wool,
fritted glass filtering crucible. Dry the views of a fiber sample. The fiber images Hair and other round Fibers: Select a rep-
crucible and residue in air and then in an may be viewed either through a micro- resentative swatch, or yarn sections, as in
oven at 105-110°C to constant weight. scope or as projected onto a horizontal 14.1.1. With a fabric swatch, remove the
Record the weight of the dried residue to plane. While either viewing method may outermost yarns in both directions so that
the nearest 0.1 mg. be used for identification and counting of the warp and filling yarns are protruding
12.12 Method No. 12, Cyclohex- fibers, the projection method is specifi- approximately 1 cm. Lay the sample flat
anone: Weigh accurately a 0.5-1.5 g of cally used for measuring fiber diameters on a table and, using a fiber cutter, force
clean, dried, prepared specimen and using a wedge scale (see 14.3.2). the blades vertically downward into the
record the weight to the nearest 0.1 mg. 13.3 Methods which may be used to warp fringe. Repeat the operation with
Transfer to a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask. identify fibers during the fiber counting the filling fringe. Remove the device with
Add 50-150 mL of cyclohexanone under procedures are discussed in AATCC the top plate up, release the tension on the
a fume hood and cover with a flask cover. TM20, Test Method for Fiber Analysis: cutting blades and remove them together
Heat to the boiling temperature and stir Qualitative. They include the following: by their ends between the thumb and
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20A-2021 89

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
forefinger. Carefully separate the blades field is again traversed. Repeat this pro- clear well formed image appears on the
so that the cut fiber sections will adhere cedure until the whole slide has been cov- video monitor. Use of a 50× objective with
to the edge of one or both blades. Place a ered. The spacing between each traverse C mount video camera coupling has been
few drops of mineral oil on a clean slide is dependent upon the number of fiber found acceptable for most fiber types. Us-
and, with a dissecting needle, scrape the sections on the slide. If a fiber passes the ing correctly calibrated image analysis
fiber sections onto the oil. Thoroughly crosshair more than once, record each software and a digital image capture board
disperse the fibers in the oil with the dis- passing (see 17.11). In a similar manner, digitally capture the cross-sectional image.
secting needle and cover with a cover count the fibers by moving the slide verti- Using a mouse or stylus trace around the
glass. For yarn samples, align the sec- cally. The combined horizontal and ver- captured cross-sectional images. Use the
tions side-by-side and perform the above tical counts should total at least 1000 image analysis software to store the result-
operation starting with the use of the fiber fibers. ant cross-sectional areas. If there are not
cutter. 14.2.2 Projected Images of Fibers: Cal- sufficient fibers on the slide to provide 100
14.1.3 Cross-Sections of Fibers: Select ibrate the microprojector so that it will of each type, prepare another slide as de-
representative yarns, or yarn sections, give a magnification of 500× in the plane scribed above using another tuft of fibers.
from the sample and render them to sta- of the projected image. To do this, place Continue to trace and count on the new
ple by removing twist and drawing out fi- a stage micrometer (having units of slide until 100 fibers of each type have
bers. Align the fibers parallel to each 0.01 mm) on the stage of the micro- been tallied. Calculate the mean cross-sec-
other so as to form a well blended tuft. projector with its scale toward the objec- tional area automatically using the statisti-
Prepare a slide following the instructions tive and place a large sheet of white, non- cal functions of the digital image analysis
of AATCC TM20, Section 9.3. glare paper in the projection plane. software. Final values should be in µm2.
14.1.4 Cross-Sections of Cut-resistant Lower or raise the microscope until an 14.3.2 Fibers with Circular Cross-
Fibers or Yarns: For yarns containing interval of 0.20 mm on the stage micro- Sections: Prepare a slide as described in
highly cut resistant fibers that cannot be meter will measure 100 mm when 14.1.2. Be sure to make measurements on
readily separated by mechanical or chem- sharply focused in the center of the paper. the same day that the slide was prepared.
ical means (e.g. blends containing ara- Place the slide prepared as in 14.1 on the Position the slide in the microprojector or
mids and/or polybenzimidazole), do not stage of the microprojector with the cover microscope so that all areas of the slide
use the fiber cutting techniques described glass toward the objective. Draw a 10-cm can be reached.
in AATCC TM20, Section 9.3. Mount diameter circle in the center of the white 14.3.2.1 Measurement with Wedge
representative yarns from the sample paper in the projection plane. All mea- Scale and Microprojector: Bring each in-
onto the rigid mounting card using dou- surements and counts are to be made dividual fiber being measured into sharp
ble sided tape. Coat the inside surfaces of within this circle. Begin to count near focus on the wedge scale. Adjust the posi-
the sample cup with epoxy release agent. either the upper or lower corner of the tion of the scale until the fiber image is
Place rigid mounting card, with sample field and proceed exactly as described in projected on the wedge with a fine line
affixed, into the sample cup taking care to 14.2.1 (see 17.12). and mark on the wedge the point that cor-
keep the card centered and perpendicular. 14.2.3 Video Imaging of Fibers: Using responds to the width of the fiber midway
Mix epoxy resin and epoxy hardener ac- a video monitor with a crosshair placed in of its length. Traverse the slide and mea-
cording to manufacturer’s instructions the center of the screen coupled to a sure successive fibers of each type follow-
and fill the sample cup. Place sample cup video camera attached to a correctly ad- ing a planned course. Measure fibers only
containing samples and resin into vac- justed transmitted light microscope scan when their midpoint falls within the 10-
uum chamber and evacuate to a vacuum the slide as outlined in 14.2.1. cm circle central located in the field. Ex-
pressure of 25 in-Hg for 10 minutes. 14.3 Fiber Measurement. clude from measurement those fibers that
Slowly release vacuum pressure and cure 14.3.1 Fibers with Noncircular Cross- cross another fiber at the point of mea-
epoxy in standard atmospheric conditions Sections: surement and those that are shorter than
according to manufacturer’s instructions 14.3.1.1 Paper Tracing Method: Pre- 150 µm. A minimum of 100 fibers of each
(typically 18-24 h). Remove cured epoxy pare a slide as described in 14.1.3. Place type present should be measured. Calcu-
mount from sample cup and cut away top this slide on the stage of the microprojec- late the mean cross-sectional area of each
tabs of rigid mounting card. Starting with tor and project the image onto a sheet of fiber type. Final values should be in µm2
120 grit abrasive disc affixed to grinder/ graph paper having one millimeter (see 17.13). Considerable variation can
polisher platen, grind surface to a smooth squares. Trace the image of the fibers on occur in the average diameter of hair and
finish, free of indentations. Gradually in- the graph paper using a sharpened pencil, wool fibers. Thus, for accurate results on
crease the grit rating (going to finer grit) taking care not to retrace fibers previ- any specific sample, the fiber diameters
of the abrasive disc, grinding/polishing to ously traced. If there are not sufficient fi- must be measured. If, however, maximum
a smooth (scratch-free) clear finish on the bers on the slide to provide 100 of each accuracy is not required, the diameters
epoxy mount. Mounted fibers are then type, prepare another slide as described given in Tables III and IV may be used.
counted according to 14.2. above using another tuft of fibers. Con- 14.3.2.2 Measurement with Digital Im-
14.2 Fiber Counting. tinue to trace and to count on the new age Analysis Software: Using a correctly
14.2.1 Fibers Viewed Through Micro- slide until 100 fibers of each type have calibrated image analysis system measure
scope: Place the slide prepared as in 14.1 been tallied. By counting squares, and the diameter of the individual fibers in
on the moveable stage on a microscope parts of squares, determine the cross- question.
equipped with a crosshair ocular and hav- sectional area of each individual fiber of 14.4 Calculations. Calculate the content
ing a magnification of 200-250×. Begin each type. Calculate the mean cross- of each fiber as percent by weight using
to count near either the upper or lower sectional area for each fiber type present equation 1 if 14.3.1 was used to determine
corner of the field and, as the slide is by summing the individual values re- average area of fiber cross-section images,
moved slowly across the field in the hori- corded for that type and dividing the sum and equation 2 if section 14.3.2 was used
zontal direction, identify and count all fi- by the total number of fibers of that type to determine fiber diameters (see 17.14).
bers passing through the center of the measured. Final values should be in mm2.
crosshairs. After each trip across the 14.3.1.2 Digital Tracing Method: Pre-
field, move the slide 1-2 mm vertically pare a slide as described in 14.1.3. Place Ni × Ai × Si
X i = -------------------------------
- (Eq. 1)
and identify and count the fibers as the this slide on the stage and adjust until a Σ(N × A × S)

90 AATCC TM20A-2021
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table III—Comparative Scale for Fineness of Various Textile Fibers in Micrometers (µm) for determining the true value. As a
means of estimating this property, the
IWTO Super Fine Wools Grades method has no known bias.
‘X’ Value Average Fineness µ ‘X’ Value Average Fineness µ
17. Notes
Super 80’s 19.5 ± 0.25 Super 150’s 16.0 ± 0.25
Super 90’s 19.0 ± 0.25 Super 160’s 15.5 ± 0.25 17.1 Applicable only to Nylon 6 and Nylon
6,6.
Super 100’s 18.5 ± 0.25 Super 170’s 15.0 ± 0.25 17.2 Available from Publications Office,
Super 110’s 18.0 ± 0.25 Super 180’s 14.5 ± 0.25 ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
Super 120’s 17.5 ± 0.25 Super 190’s 14.0 ± 0.25 Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
Super 130’s 17.0 ± 0.25 Super 200’s 13.5 ± 0.25 17.3 Since sodium hypochlorite solutions
Super 140’s 16.5 ± 0.25 Super 210’s 13.0 ± 0.25 lose strength on standing, it is recommended
that they be standardized frequently. The fol-
lowing is a suitable method for determining
the available chlorine content of such solu-
tions: Dilute a 10 mL aliquot of the solution to
be tested to 250 mL with water in a volumetric
flask. Pipette 25 mL from the volumetric flask
to an Erlenmeyer flask; add 3-5 mL of a 10%
solution of potassium iodide (KI) and then add
2-3 mL acetic acid (CH3COOH). Mix well
and titrate with 0.1N sodium thiosulfate
(Na2S2O3) until the yellow color of the iodine
is nearly destroyed. Add 5 mL of a starch indi-
cator solution and titrate until the blue color
entirely disappears. Calculate the percentage
of available chlorine by weight as follows:
Available Chlorine, % = 3.5A/B
where:
A = mL of 0.1N sodium thiosulfate used
B = g of 10 mL aliquot taken
17.4 Exception: when the pattern is smaller
than 15 × 15 cm, a sufficient number of com-
plete patterns should be taken to be equivalent
to not less than 225 cm2.
17.5 Whenever there is any doubt about the
effectiveness of a given method in dissolving
a specific fiber, or whenever there is an appli-
N i × D2i π/4 × S i 16. Precision and Bias cation of a method to a new type of fiber, one
X i = ------------------------------------------
- (Eq. 2)
Σ ( N × D π/4 × S )
2 should always examine the residue in the fil-
16.1 A chemical separation interlabora- tering crucible after weighing. This precaution
tory test was conducted using a PET/ should always be taken when a fiber blend
where: Wool intimate blend fabric with a nomi- consists of (1) one predominate fiber with one
Xi is content of fiber i, percent (by nal fiber content of 55% PET/45% Wool (or more) minor components; or (2) one very
weight) according to the fabric manufacturer, with minor fiber with one (or more) major com-
Ni is relative number of fibers of type i results as noted in Tables VI and VII. ponents.
Ai is average area of fiber images of 16.1.1 Between Laboratories 17.6 If a mechanical shaking machine is
fiber i available, the flask may be shaken on it con-
Standard Deviation = 0.6305 = tinuously for 30 min.
D2i is the mean of diameter squared of 0.7940% polyester 17.7.1 Cotton is not completely insoluble in
fibers of type i H2SO4 (59.5%). Furthermore, a small amount
2 Precision: ± t.975(6df)×S = 2.45 ×
D π/4 is the mean cross-sectional 0.7940% = ± 1.9454% polyester of rayon remains undissolved in this solvent.
area of round cross-section fibers In addition, some types of rayon, like lyocell,
of type i 16.1.2 Between Operators within may gel instead of dissolve in 59.5% sulfuric
Si is specific gravity of type i fiber Laboratories. acid (see Fig. 2). In the analysis of cotton/
Σ(Ni × Ai × Si) is sum of the respective rayon blends, interlaboratory tests indicate
Standard deviation = 0.0655 = that to allow for the above bias, the composi-
N × A × S products for each fiber 0.2559% polyester tion of the specimen should be calculated as
type in the blend Precision: ± t.975(6df)×S = 2.45 × follows:
Σ(N × D2i π/4 × S) is sum of the re- 0.2559% = ± 0.627% polyester
spective N × D2i π/4 × S products 100 aJ
16.2 Interpretation. The above statis- Corrected cotton, % = ----------------- – 1.6
for each fiber type in the blend F
tics apply to the PET/Wool fabric tested
See Table V for specific gravity values. which may represent a best case scenario where:
for the determination of fiber content by for raw cotton, a is 1.062
15. Report chemical separation. Additional studies for bleached cotton, a is 1.046
are underway in conjunction with Com-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

J is the oven-dry residue weight

15.1 Report the percentage fiber con- mittee RA102, Statistics Advisory, in- F is the oven-dry weight of clean fiber
tent by weight of the sample analyzed. volving different blend levels. before treatment.
State if nonfibrous content has been re- 16.3 Bias. The quantitative fiber analy-
Corrected Regenerated Cellulose Rayon,
moved or if results are based on other sis can only be defined in terms of a test
than oven-dry weights. method. There is no independent method % = 100 – corrected cotton percent.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM20A-2021 91

U.S. Wool Classification

Wool Grades Wool Top Grades Pulled Wool
Numerical Average Blood Numerical Average
System Diameter Systemc System Diameterd Grades
80s 17.7-19.1 Fine 80s 18.1-19.5 AA
70s 19.2-20.5 Fine 70s 19.6-21.0 AA
64s 20.6-22.0 Fine 64s 21.1-22.5 AA
62s 22.1-23.4 ½ 62s 22.6-24.0 A
60s 23.5-24.9 ½ 60s 24.1-25.5 A
58s 25.0-26.4 3
/8 58s 25.6-27.0 A
56s 26.5-27.8 3
/8 56s 27.1-28.5 B
54s 27.9-29.3 ¼ 54s 28.6-30.0 B
50s 29.4-30.9 ¼ 50s 30.1-31.7 B
48s 31.0-32.6 ¼ 48s 31.8-33.4 B
46s 32.7-34.3 Low ¼ 46s 33.5-35.1 C
44s 34.4-36.1 Common 44s 35.2-37.0 C
40s 36.2-38.0 Braid 40s 37.1-38.9 C
36s 38.1-40.2 Braid 36s 39.0-41.2 C
Hair Fibers and Silk
Mohair (1) Miscellaneous Hair Fibers (1) Silk (1)
Fineness Average Average
Grade Range Fiber Fineness Fiber Fineness
40s 23.55-25.54 Vicuna 13.0-14.0 Cultivated silk 10.0-13.0
36s 25.55-27.54 Cashmere 14.0-19.0 Tussah silk 00.0-28.5
32s 27.55-29.54 Camel hair 17.0-23.0
30s 29.55-31.54 Alpaca 26.0-28.0
28s 31.55-33.54 Llama 20.0-27.0
26s 33.55-35.54
22s 35.55-38.04
18s 38.05-40.54
Vegetable Fiber (1) Glass Fiber (2)
Filament
Average Diameter Theoretical Staple Fiber Average
Fiber Fineness Designation Diameter Diameter Designation Diameter
Cotton 16.0-21.0 D 5.3 E 7.1
Flax (linen) 15.0-17.0 E 7.4 G 9.7
Jute 15.0-20.0 G 9.0 J 11.4
Hemp 18.0-23.0
Kapok 21.0-30.0
Ramie 25.0-30.0
Theoretical Fiber Diameterd
Rayon (3), Acetate (3), Nylon (4), and Vinyon (3) Casein Fiber (5)
Filament Viscose Acetate Fiber
Denier Rayon and Vinyon Nylon Grade Denier Diameter
1 9.6 10.3 11.1 70s 3 20
2 13.6 14.5 15.7 60s 5 25
3 16.7 17.8 19.3 50s 7 30
4 19.3 20.6 22.3
5 21.6 23.0 24.9
6 23.6 25.2 27.3
7 25.5 27.3 29.5
8 27.3 29.1 31.5
9 28.9 30.9 33.4
10 30.5 32.6 35.2
12 33.4 35.7 38.5
14 36.1 38.5 41.7
16 38.6 41.2 44.5
18 40.9 43.7 47.3
20 43.1 46.1 49.9
a
Source of Data:
(1) Werner von Bergen and W. Krauss, Textile Fiber Atlas, Textile Book Publishers Inc., New York NY (1949).
(2) Owens-Corning Fiberglas Corp.
(3) American Viscose Corp.
(4) E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Co.
(5) Aralac Incorporated.
c
Trade application.
d
U.S. Standards, Federal Register, January 13, 1954; Specifications for Fineness of Wool Tops and Assignment of Grade (ASTM Designation: D3992).

92 AATCC TM20A-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table V 17.7.3 Some dyeing and finishing processes purchased from Fisher Scientific Company,
may increase the variability and decrease the Part #10-042.
Fiber Specific Gravity accuracy of chemical separation using 59.5% 17.17 Blends of aramids and polybenzimi-
H2SO4 to determine the percent fiber content dazole are very difficult to cut cleanly using
Acetate 1.31 by weight of cellulosic blends. fiber cutting techniques (e.g. AATCC TM20,
Acrylic 1.16-1.22 17.8 Extreme care must be taken to control Section 9.3) without smearing the cross-sec-
Cotton 1.55 both time of exposure to the reagent and the tion of the highly cut resistant fibers. Attempts
Hair 1.32 temperature of treatment. If either is insuffi-
Hemp 1.48 at chemical separation of the fibers typically
cient, the desired fiber or fibers, will not be results in the either no dissolution or partial
Linen 1.50
completely dissolved. If either becomes ex- dissolution of both fiber types, making accu-
Modacrylic 1.28-1.38
Nylon cessive, it will cause attack of other fibers. rate quantitative analysis impossible. Hard ep-
1.14
Olefin 0.93 17.9 A mechanical shaking machine may oxy mount cross-sections (see 14.1.4) provide
Polyester 1.23-1.40 be used for this purpose. very clean cross-sections that allow accurate
Polybenzimidazole 1.40 17.10 For fancy woven fabrics, use all microscopical quantitative blend analysis.
Ramie 1.51 the yarns in one or more complete patterns
Rayon 1.52 or a representative fraction, if the pattern is
Silk 1.25 large. 18. References
Spandex 1.0-1.2 17.11 Linen fibers may be present in the
Wool 1.31 fabric or yarn in the form of fiber bundles. 18.1 ASTM D276, Standard Test Methods
Most bundles are reduced to single fibers dur- for Identification of Fibers in Textiles.
In the case of a fiber with a range of values, ing the preparation of the fiber suspension. If, 18.2 ASTM D629, Standard Test Methods
knowledge of the specific type in the generic class however, some bundles do appear on the slide, for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles.
may permit the selection of a precise specific gravity; an attempt should be made to count each of 18.3 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for
or the density of a fiber may be determined using the the individual fibers in the bundle. Conditioning and Testing Textiles.
procedure described in AATCC TM20, Section 9.6. 17.12 A regular microscope may be used 18.4 ASTM D1909, Standard Table of Com-
for the fiber counting and, if a suitable cali- mercial Moisture Regains for Textile Fibers.
brating device is available, it may also be used
18.5 ASTM D2130, Method of Test for
for measuring fiber diameters.
17.7.2 Linen is not completely insoluble in Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by
17.13 For further information on marking Microprojection.
H2SO4 (59.5%). Furthermore, a small amount cell numbers on a wedge scale, and for exam-
of rayon remains undissolved in this solvent. ples of calculations of how to determine the 18.6 ASTM D4920, Standard Terminology
In addition, some types of rayon, like lyocell, average fiber diameter using cell numbers, see Relating to Moisture in Textiles.
may gel instead of dissolve in 59.5% sulfuric ASTM D2130, Method of Test for Diameter 18.7 Available from ASTM International,
acid (see Fig. 2). In the analysis of linen/rayon of Wool and Other Animal Fibers by Micro-
blends, interlaboratory tests indicate that to al- projection.
low for the above bias, the composition of the 17.14 One is cautioned not to mix units;
specimen should be calculated as follows: e.g., if some fiber diameters have been deter-
mined in µm, then all diameters must be in µm.
100 aJ For ease of calculation, the terms D 2i and D2
Corrected linen, % = ----------------- – 1.6 may be used in place of D 2i π/4 and D2 π/4
F
respectively. If this is done one cannot use
where: both cross-sectional areas and squared diame-
for undyed linen, a is 1.084 ters in the same equation.
for dyed linen, a is 1.105 17.15 Any extractor capable of heating the
J is the oven-dry residue weight sample in the solvent up to 150°C while pres-
F is the oven-dry weight of clean fiber surizing up to 2000 may be used. Solvent in
before treatment. use must have an auto ignition of higher than
200°C. The accelerated solvent extractor
Corrected Regenerated Cellulose Rayon, (ASE) has been found to be an acceptable al-
ternative to Soxhlet extractor. Fig. 2—Gelled Lyocell in left beaker;
% = 100 – corrected linen percent. 17.16 The flask covers (reflux caps) can be Dissolved Viscose in right beaker.

Table VI—Nested Factorial Design (Polyester %)

Laboratory A B C D E
Operator 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
58.00 57.57 58.60 58.00 57.95 58.27 58.35 59.88 58.30 57.78
58.09 57.65 58.00 57.70
58.04 57.60
Totals 174.13 172.82 116.60 115.70 57.95 58.27 58.35 59.88 58.30 57.78

Table VII—ANOVA

Degrees of Freedom (df) Sum of Squares Mean Square F Ratio

Between Laboratories 4 2.5221 0.6305 2.161
Between Operators within Laboratories 5 0.3275 0.0655 0.224
Residual (or error) 6 1.7501 0.2917 —
Totals 15 4.5997

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM20A-2021 93
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA 19. History 2005, 2004; editorially revised 2002; revised
19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. 2000, 1995; reaffirmed 1989; editorially re-
9555; web site: www.astm.org. 19.1 Revised 2021 to updated Table I for vised 1985, 1982 (new title); reaffirmed 1981;
18.8 IWTO Draft Test Method 58-97, correctness. editorially revised 1980; reaffirmed 1978;
“Quantitative Analysis of Blends of Wool 19.2 Revised in 2020 for clarity and to revised 1975; reaffirmed 1971; revised 1959,
with Specialty Fibers by Scanning Electron update Tables I and II; editorially revised 1958.
Microscope.” Describes method for distin- 2019; revised 2018, 2017; editorially 2015; 19.3 Developed in 1957 by AATCC Com-
guishing between specialty animal fibers and revised 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010; edi- mittee RA24. Related to ISO 17751 and 1833
wool and provides numerous references. torially revised 2009; revised 2008, 2007, and IWTO 58.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

94 AATCC TM20A-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Water Repellency: Spray

Developed in 1941 by AATCC Commit- this method of test especially suitable for be conditioned at 65 ± 5% relative hu-
tee RA63; revised 1952, 1996, 2001, screening finishes. It is not intended, midity and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) for a min-
2005, 2017; reaffirmed 1943, 1961, however, for use in predicting the proba- imum of 4 h before testing.
1964, 1967, 1971, 1974, 1977, 1980, ble rain penetration resistance of fabrics, 7.2 Where possible, each specimen
1985, 1989, 2010, 2014; editorially re- since it does not measure penetration of should contain different groups of length-
vised 1987, 2008, 2016, 2019. Techni- water through the fabric. For testing rain wise and widthwise yarns.
cally equivalent to ISO 4920. penetration, AATCC TM35, Test Method
for Water Resistance: Rain Test, should 8. Procedure
1. Purpose and Scope be used.
8.1 Calibrate the apparatus by pouring
1.1 This test method is applicable to 250 mL of distilled water at 27 ± 1°C (80
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.1)
any textile fabric, which may or may not ± 2°F) into the funnel of the tester and
have been given a water-repellent finish. 6.1 AATCC Spray Tester (see 11.2, measure the time required for the funnel
It measures the resistance of fabrics to Figs. 1, 2, 2A and 3). to empty.
wetting by water. It is especially suitable 6.2 Graduated cylinder, 250 mL. 8.1.1 The spray time must be between
for measuring the water-repellent effi- 6.3 Water, distilled. 25-30 s, otherwise the nozzle should be
cacy of finishes applied to fabrics. 6.4 Stopwatch (see 8.3) checked to see if the holes are enlarged or
1.2 The results obtained with this test blocked. Nominal hole size is indicated
method depend on the resistance to wet- 7. Test Specimens in Fig. 3, but spray time is the critical
ting or water repellency of the fibers, value for calibration.
yarns and finishes on the fabric, and upon 7.1 Three test specimens 180.0 × 180.0 8.2 Fasten the test specimen securely
the construction of the fabric. mm (7.0 × 7.0 in.) are needed and should in the 152.4 mm (6.0 in.) diameter hoop

2. Principle
2.1 Water sprayed against the taut sur-
face of a test specimen under controlled
conditions produces a wetted pattern
whose size depends on the repellency of
the fabric. Evaluation is accomplished by
comparing the wetted pattern with pic-
tures on a standard chart.

3. Terminology
3.1 water repellency, n.—in textiles,
the characteristic of a fiber, yarn or fabric
to resist wetting.
3.2 face, n.—in textiles, the side of a
fabric that is intended to be the outer visi-
ble surface in an end product.

4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data and
other manufacturer’s recommendations.
All OSHA standards and rules must also
be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
he followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas.

5. Uses and Limitations

5.1 The portability and simplicity of
the instrument, and the shortness and
simplicity of the test procedure, make Fig. 1—Spray test rating chart.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM22-2017e

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 95
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 2A—Details of AATCC spray tester.

12 holes Ø 0.86 mm
(nominal) on a circle
Ø 21 ± 0.5 mm

Fig. 2—AATCC spray tester. 6 holes Ø 0.86 mm

(nominal) on a circle
Ø 10 ± 0.5 mm
so that the face of the fabric specimen
will be exposed to the water spray. The
surface of the specimen should be smooth 1 hole Ø 0.86 mm
and without wrinkles. (nominal) on center
8.3 Place the hoop on the stand of the
tester with the fabric uppermost in such a
position that the center of the spray pat-
tern coincides with the center of the hoop
(see Fig. 2A).
8.3.1 In the case of twills, gabardines, 8.8 ± 0.25 mm
piques or fabrics with similar ribbed con-
struction, place the hoop on the stand in
such a way that the fabric is oriented in
the same direction as it will be used in the
end product. 49 ± 0.38 mm
8.4 Pour 250 mL of distilled water at
27 ± 1°C (80 ± 2°F) into the funnel of the
tester and allow it to spray onto the test 5.85 ± 0.25 mm
specimen for 25-30 s.
8.4.1 Avoid touching the funnel with
the graduated cylinder while pouring the
distilled water. Movement of the funnel
will alter the spray disposition on the
specimen. 32 ± 0.50 mm
8.5 Take the hoop by the bottom edge
and tap the opposite edge firmly once Fig. 3—Nozzle for spray tester.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

96 AATCC TM22-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

creasing variation as the grade goes

for each test specimen. Do not average Single Within Between
lower. This has been verified again, in Operator Laboratory Laboratory
the results. N
this limited study. For this reason, critical 1 5.9 6.3 6.3
10. Precision and Bias difference tables are shown for two 2 4.2 4.8 4.8
ranges. 3 3.4 4.1 4.1
10.1 Precision. Precision of this test 10.1.4 Single fabric precision parame- 4 2.9 3.7 3.7
method is based on interlaboratory tests ters for two fabric levels are given in Ta- 5 2.6 3.5 3.5
conducted in 1994, using six laboratories, bles I and II.
three fabrics, two operators per labora- 10.2 Bias. This test method has no
tory and three determinations per fabric. known bias. There is no referee method Corporate members, but AATCC does not
Separate tests were run on two days. The by which to determine the true value of qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
data sets from each lab were combined Spray Rating and to find any existing bias tify that any of the listed equipment or
for analysis, which required averaging in this methodology. materials meets the requirements in its test
the individual ratings. There were no sig- methods.
nificant differences found between days. 11. Notes 11.2 The AATCC Spray Test Unit consist-
ing of hoop, nozzle, funnel, stand and Spray
10.1.1 The Spray Rating Scale is dis- 11.1 For potential equipment information Test Rating Chart is available from AATCC,
crete and discontinuous, but results are pertaining to this test method, please visit P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC
based on averages which tend to normal- the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
ity. Also, ratings are assigned against de- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web
veloped grade standards (photographs), of listing equipment and materials sold by its site: www.aatcc.org.

Appendix A
Flow Chart of Evaluation and Report

Calibrate spray time to Spray sample;

25–30 s. Calibrate water Tap firmly
temperature to 27 ± 1°C. twice.

Yes Is there No
a wet spray
pattern?

Rate from
Are
the pictures, Yes No
water droplets
0 to 90.
clinging to the surface
fibrils?

Rating = 95 Rating = 100

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM22-2017e 97

Test Method for Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes

1. Purpose and Scope be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 5. Apparatus, Materials and Reagents
laboratory areas.
1.1 This test method is intended for as- 5.1 Exposure chamber (see 11.2).
sessing the resistance of the color of tex- 4.2 All chemicals should be handled 5.2 Control Ribbon No. 1 (see 11.3).
tiles of all kinds and in all forms when with care. 5.3 Standard of Fading (Ribbon No. 1)
exposed to atmospheric oxides of nitro- (see 11.3).
gen as derived from the combustion of 4.3 Stoddard solvent is a combustible
5.4 Gray Scale for Color Change
natural gas. Exceptions are noted in liquid and presents a moderate hazard. It
(AATCC EP1) (see 11.9).
11.8.1. should not be used near an open flame,
and fabric saturated with this solvent 5.5 Natural gas (see 11.6).
1.2 This test method may be used for should be dried in an adequately venti- 5.6 Urea solution (see 11.10).
rating colorfastness of dyes by applying lated laboratory hood. Use chemical gog- 5.7 Mineral spirits.
the dye to textiles by a specified proce- gles or face shield, impervious gloves 5.8 Perchloroethylene.
dure and at a specified depth of color and and an impervious apron when handling 5.9 Trichloroethylene.
testing the dyed textiles. 5.10 1993 AATCC Standard Reference
Stoddard solvent.
Detergent WOB (see 11.9).
2. Principle 4.4 Perchloroethylene is toxic by inha-
lation, by repeated contact with skin and 6. Test Specimens
2.1 A specimen of the textile and the by ingestion; it MUST be used only in a
test control fabric are exposed simulta- well vented atmosphere. Toxicology 6.1 Use test specimens that measure
neously to oxides of nitrogen from burnt studies with laboratory animals have approximately 5.0 × 10.0 cm. If pressing
gas fumes until the control shows a shown evidence of cancer in rats and is necessary to remove wrinkles, iron the
change in color corresponding to that of mice exposed to perchloroethylene va- specimens between two layers of closely
the standard of fading. The change in pors at 100-400 ppm concentrations for woven cotton cloth or press them with a
color of the specimen is assessed with the prolonged times. Fabric saturated with steam press (see 11.4).
standard gray scale for assessing change this solvent should be dried in an ade- 6.1.1 For fastness to oxides of nitrogen
in color. If no color change is observed in quately ventilated laboratory hood. Use in storage or use, test a specimen of the
the specimen after one exposure period or chemical goggles or face shield, impervi- original fabric.
cycle, exposure may be continued, for ei- ous gloves and an impervious apron 6.1.2 For fastness to oxides of nitrogen
ther a specified number of periods or for when handling perchloroethylene. after drycleaning, immerse one specimen
the number of periods required to pro- in cold mineral spirits for 10 min, then
duce a specified amount of color change 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should squeeze the solvent out and dry the speci-
in the specimen. be located nearby and an organic vapor men in air. One specimen is immersed in
respirator should be readily available for cold perchloroethylene for 10 min,
3. Terminology
emergency use. squeezed and allowed to dry in the air.
4.6 In previous versions of this test, Trichloroethylene may be substituted for
3.1 burnt gas fumes, n.—atmospheric recommendations were made for the use perchloroethylene. Prepare a drycleaned
oxides of nitrogen as derived from the of a wire screen placed above the burner only specimen for comparison with the
combustion of illuminating or heating to decrease the test time. During recent tested drycleaned specimen.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
gas. studies it was found that the improper ap- 6.1.3 For fastness to oxides of nitrogen
3.2 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of plication of the steel screen may increase after washing (see 11.5), unless a specific
a material to change in any of its color the generation of residual unburnt gas wash test is specified, wash the test speci-
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- and, thereby, cause the potential for an men in a detergent solution containing
rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a explosion. The manufacturers of the de- 5 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Reference
result of the exposure of the material to vices are recommending against the use Detergent WOB per liter of water of ap-
any environment that might be encoun- of this screen due to potential safety is- proximately zero hardness for 10 min at
tered during the processing, testing, stor- sues (see 11.6.1). 41 ± 3°C, rinse it in warm water and dry
age or use of the material. it in air. Prepare a washed only specimen to
4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this compare with the tested washed specimen.
4. Safety Precautions procedure must be controlled at or below
levels set by governmental authorities 7. Procedure
NOTE: These safety precautions are (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
for information purposes only. The pre- Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 7.1 Suspend the test specimens and
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR a piece of the Control Ribbon freely in
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov the test chamber so that they are not in
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- contact with each other and do not come
safe and proper techniques in handling can Conference of Governmental Indus- into direct contact with any hot metallic
materials in this test method. Manufac- trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold surface. Light the gas burner and adjust
turers MUST be consulted for specific Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time the flame and ventilating equipment so
details such as material safety data sheets weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short that the temperature in the chamber does
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and not exceed 60°C (see 11.7 and 11.8).
tions. All OSHA standards and rules ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended Leave the specimens to remain in the
must also be consulted and followed. as a general guide for air contaminant ex- chamber until the control sample changes
4.1 Good laboratory practices should posure which should be met (see 11.1). color to correspond to the color of the

98 AATCC TM23-2015e(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Standard of Fading when compared in 10.2 Bias. Burnt gas fumes can be de- both the dyestuff and undyed fabric will pro-
daylight (ranging from average to slightly fined only in terms of a test method. duce variations in both the original shade and
bluish north sky light) or equivalent arti- There is no independent method for de- its fading rate, it is therefore necessary to ac-
ficial illumination. termining the true value. As a means of curately establish a new standard of fading
for each dyed lot of control ribbon so that
7.2 Then remove the test specimens estimating this property, the method has comparable tests results can be obtained
from the test chamber and immediately no known bias. when using different lots of the control and
assess the change in color of each by use their respective standards of fading. In con-
of the Gray Scale for Color Change. ducting tests, only the standard of fading appli-
7.3 Specimens exposed to oxides of ni- 11. Notes cable to that lot of control ribbon may be used.
trogen may continue to change color after 11.1 Available from Publications Office,
11.3.4 The standard of fading for the origi-
removal from the test chamber. Option- nal lot of control ribbon was made with vat
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper dyes on cellulose acetate satin. For subsequent
ally, another or more detailed visual or in- Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
strumental examination may be done. If lots of the control ribbon, it was found that the
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. use of direct dyes on viscose satin for the stan-
this is to be done, without delay, plunge 11.2 Exposure Chamber. dard of fading provided a better shade match.
the test and control specimens and pieces 11.2.1 The exposure chamber may be of 11.3.5 Both the Control Ribbon and the
of the original test and control fabric into variable construction but must provide an en- Standard of Fading must be kept in suitable
buffered urea solution (see 11.10) for 5 closure in which test specimens can be ex- containers or enclosures to protect them from
min. Then squeeze out the specimens and posed in an atmosphere of air which has possible exposure and color change to oxides
pieces and thoroughly rinse them. Dry passed over and contains the byproducts of of nitrogen and other contaminants which
the specimens in air at a temperature not combustion from a lighted gas burner. The ap- might be present in the atmosphere during
paratus should be equipped with a suitable transportation and storage.
above 60°C. means of supporting the test specimens so that
7.4 After the first cycle, any specimens 11.3.6 The Control Ribbon is also sensi-
there is a free circulation of the atmosphere tive to other atmospheric contaminants such
which do not show a color change and around the specimens and so that only a mini- as ozone. Its fading rate will vary consider-
which are not treated with the buffered mum amount of the specimen at the point of ably at different humidities and temperatures
urea solution may be returned to the test its suspension is in direct contact with any hot and its use in natural or end-use testing as a
chamber along with a fresh piece of the metallic surface. Either a motor driven fan to measure of exposure to oxides of nitrogen is
test control and the test continued until move the air around in the test chamber or a not recommended. The color change pro-
the second test control shows a change in motor driven rotating specimen rack should be duced on the control will reflect the com-
color corresponding to that of the Stan- used in order to insure as nearly as is possible bined effects of the atmospheric
that all specimens are exposed to the same contaminants present, and temperature-hu-
dard of Fading. conditions of gas concentration, temperature
7.5 Cycles may be repeated for either a midity variations; not just the effects of ex-
and humidity. Adjustable vents or dampers in posure to oxides of nitrogen.
specified number of cycles or until the the top of the unit together with the height of 11.3.7 A sealed unit of Test Control Fabric
specimens show a specified amount of the flame of the gas burner are used to regulate comprising 2.47 cm wide Control Ribbon No.
color change. the temperature of the exposure chamber, but 1 with a specific lot number indicated; and a
temperature and humidity will vary with that specimen of the Standard of Fading for that lot
8. Evaluation of the room in which the exposure chamber is of control ribbon is available as CR & SF
being operated. No. 1 from Testfabrics Inc., 415 Delaware
8.1 At the end of each cycle immedi- 11.2.2 Several forms of suitable apparatus Ave., P.O. Box 3026, W. Pittston PA 18643;
ately compare those specimens which are are illustrated in the American Dyestuff Re- tel: +1.570.603.0432; fax: +1.570.603.0433;
removed from the exposure chamber with porter, July 22, 1940, pp368-369. Blueprints e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.
of a suitable apparatus can be purchased from testfabrics.com.
the preserved originals from which they AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
were drawn. 11.4 Heat by Ironing.
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: 11.4.1 When an acetate fabric is pressed
8.2 Rate the effect on color of test +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc. with an iron which is hot enough to remove all
specimens after any specified number of org; web site: www.aatcc.org. wrinkles, there is danger of sealing the surface
cycles by reference to AATCC EP1, Gray 11.3 Test Control and Standard of Fading. of the fabric which would increase the resis-
Scale for Color Change, or using AATCC 11.3.1 Historically, the control ribbon was a tance to gas fading. This technique is not con-
EP7, Instrumental Assessment of the dyeing of 0.4% C.I. Disperse Blue 3 on cellu- ducive to accurate test results and should be
Change in Color of a Test Specimen, and lose acetate satin. Lot 21 uses 0.4% Disperse avoided on fabrics of this type.
record the numerical rating that corre- Violet 1 on cellulose acetate satin since its 11.5 Drycleaning and Washing Test Speci-
sponds to the appropriate one on the Gray fading characteristics are well known and it mens.
Scale. Report the number of cycles run yields more color change after the testing cy- 11.5.1 All the inhibitors available at present
cle than previous test control lots dyed with are soluble to some extent in water and there-
(see 11.11). Disperse Blue 3. fore tend to be removed by washing. These in-
11.3.2 Pieces of the original lot of control hibitors are in general not soluble in the
9. Report ribbon were hung in air in three separate ordinary drycleaning solvents, and fabrics
places in southern New Jersey for six months. treated with suitable inhibitors should with-
9.1 Report the grade for each specimen It was assumed that the atmosphere in these stand several drycleanings without losing their
and the number of cycles, to which it was places contained an average content of oxides resistance to gas fading (if the drycleaning op-
exposed. Report the average temperature of nitrogen. At the end of the exposure period, eration does not include spotting or sponging
employed and, if humidity was increased, samples from the three locations were assem- with water). The inhibitors also tend to lose
report the method used. bled and compared with the original material. their efficiency if the fabrics come into fre-
All had changed about equally, being decid- quent contact with perspiration.
edly duller and redder than the original. The 11.6 Gas.
10. Precision and Bias faded shade was then matched with vat dyes 11.6.1 Illuminating gas furnished by the
10.1 Precision. Precision for this test on cellulose acetate satin and this became the gas companies in Massachusetts, Connecti-
original standard of fading for that lot of con- cut, Rhode Island, New York, New Jersey,
method has not been established. Until a trol fabric. This produced a standard of fading Pennsylvania and Delaware has been used in
precision statement is generated for this which was more permanent than the exposed this work, including both natural and manu-
test method, use standard statistical tech- pieces of the control fabric which would have factured gas. The results were essentially the
niques in making any comparisons of test continued to change with even very small same in all cases. Any gas burner may be
results for either within-laboratory or amounts of oxides of nitrogen. used, and either a luminous (yellow) or a
between-laboratory averages. 11.3.3 Since different lots and sources of blue-green flame is suitable, though the latter

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM23-2015e(2020)

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
99
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
is to be preferred to avoid formation of soot. peratures approaching 60°C. For other fibers less of an anionic surfactant.
In cases of dispute or for referee testing com- such as nylon, rayon or cotton it is necessary 11.11 An automated electronic grading sys-
pressed butane (c.p.) gas in cylinders shall be to use high humidities to produce results tem may be used as long as the system has
used. which correlate with service performance. A been demonstrated to provide results that are
11.7 Temperature for Testing. suggested procedure for raising the level of equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
11.7.1 Other conditions being equal, the humidity in the chamber is to place containers ity and reproducibility than an experienced
fading of the specimens will vary according to of water on the floor surface of the chamber. If grader performing visual evaluation.
the temperature in the exposure chamber, the humidity is raised by this or any other pro-
which in turn depends upon the amount of gas cedure, this should be noted in the report of
12. History
consumed in a given period. Exposure for 8- the test results.
12 h at 60°C may cause as much color de- 11.9 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12.1 Reaffirmed 2020.
struction as exposure for 96 h at 21-27°C. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 12.2 Revised 2015, 2005, 1972, 1962,
Aside from this, the temperature may vary +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: 1957, 1952, 1946. Reaffirmed 1989, 1983,
somewhat in different parts of the exposure [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. 1975, 1971. Editorially Revised 2019, 2014,
chamber from time to time. 11.10 Urea Solution. 2008, 1997, 1996, 1995, 1985, 1983, 1981.
11.8 Humidity for Testing. 11.10.1 10 g of urea (NH2-CO-NH2) per liter Editorially Revised and Reaffirmed 2010,
11.8.1 The fading of dyes by oxides of ni- buffered to pH 7 by addition of 0.4 g 2004, 1999, 1994, 1988.
trogen on acetate, triacetate and polyester will of monosodium orthophosphate (NaH2PO4 · 12.3 Developed in 1941 by AATCC Com-
occur at relatively low humidities as would be 2H2O) and 2.5 g of sodium phosphate dibasic, mittee RA33. Technically equivalent to ISO
obtained in the conventional chamber at tem- dodecahydrate (Na2HPO4 · 12H2O) and 0.1 g or 105-G02.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

100 AATCC TM23-2015e(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM26-2020

Test Method for Ageing of Sulfur-Dyed Textiles: Accelerated

1. Purpose and Scope 6.2 Steam ager (see 13.3) equipped 9.2 Steam Ager Test. Suspend the test
with proper controls for uniform steam specimens while ageing, or tack on
1.1 This test method describes a proce- flow and temperature. frames and place in the steam ager, pyra-
dure for determining whether sulfur-dyed 6.3 Tensile testing machine. mid style, with the bottom baffle func-
textile materials will deteriorate under tioning as a support. Age the specimens
normal storage conditions and to estab- for 8 h with saturated steam at 103 kPa
lish the degree of such deterioration. 7. Sampling
(15 psi) pressure, or for 16 h at 51.7 kPa
7.1 Test results are valid only when the (7.5 psi) pressure. After the ageing test is
2. Principle samples are statistically representative completed, remove the specimens from
(see ASTM E1402). the ager and place in a conditioning
2.1 Specimens are steam-aged in a
7.2 Sampling must be random. Every room.
moist atmosphere under controlled condi-
unit of product must have a mathemati-
tions and then tested for loss in breaking
cally equal chance of becoming a sample;
strength to determine if storage deteriora- 10. Evaluation
and every portion of each sample must be
tion is likely.
equally likely to become a test specimen. 10.1 Condition test specimens and un-
7.3 All specimens must be alike within aged controls for 16 h at standard condi-
3. Referenced Documents the variations due to pure chance. There tions, 65 ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ±
3.1 ASTM E145, Standard Specifica- must be no differences within samples as- 4°F), before performing breaking
tion for Gravity-Convection and Forced- signable to known causes. strength tests. Perform testing under the
Ventilation Ovens. same standard conditions.
3.2 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for 8. Test Specimens 10.2 Determine the breaking strength
Sampling Design. of the unaged control specimens. Since
8.1 Sufficient samples are taken for
both control and test specimens. Tensile comparative, but not absolute, results are
4. Terminology specimens are prepped from control and to be obtained, any suitable breaking
aged samples after conditioning (see strength machine may be used which is
4.1 accelerated ageing, n.—in textile adaptable to breaking the specimens be-
processing and testing, use of controlled 10.1).
ing tested. Perform a minimum of 10 sig-
environmental conditions to promote nificant breaks and average the results.
rapid physical and/or chemical change in 9. Procedure
10.3 Determine the breaking strength
a textile material. of the aged specimens. Perform a mini-
4.2 sulfur dye, n.—a dye, containing 9.1 Oven Test, Option 1. Expose the
specimens to 135 ± 2°C heat in the oven mum of 10 significant breaks and average
sulfur both as an integral part of the chro- the results.
mophore and in attached polysulfide for 6 h continuously. At the beginning of
chains, normally applied in the alkali-sol- the second, third, fourth, fifth and sixth 10.4 Calculate percent loss (or gain) in
uble reduced (leuco) form from a sodium hours, close the ports or vents and add 20 strength based on the unaged control
sulfide solution and subsequently oxi- mL of water for each 0.03 m3 (1.0 ft3) of material.
dized to the insoluble form in the fiber. oven capacity. Keep vents closed for 5
min, then open and resume circulation for 11. Report
the rest of the period. At the end of 6 h of
5. Safety Precautions heating, remove the specimens from the 11.1 Describe or identify the sample
5.1 The safety precautions specified in oven and place in a conditioning room. tested.
the method/procedure are ancillary to the 9.1.1 Oven Test, Option 2. Expose the 11.2 Report that the sample was tested
testing procedures and are not intended to specimens to 135 ± 2°C heat in the oven using AATCC TM26-2020.
be all inclusive. for 6 h. Remove the test specimens from
the oven at the end of each hour and thor- 11.3 Report the testing conditions:
5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref-
erence applicable safety data sheets, use oughly humidify in an atmosphere of 11.3.1 Test procedure (oven test: Op-
safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- steam, then replace in the oven. At the tion 1, Option 2, Option 3, or steam ager
propriate personal protective equipment end of 6 h of heating, remove the speci- test).
in handling materials in this standard. mens from the oven and place in a condi- 11.3.2 Test conditions.
5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- tioning room. 11.4 Report test method used for
ers for specific details such as equipment 9.1.2 Oven Test, Option 3. Expose the breaking strength.
operating instructions and other recom- specimens to 135 ± 2°C heat in the oven 11.5 Report the test results:
mendations. Consult and follow all appli- for 6 h continuously. At the beginning of 11.5.1 Mean breaking strength and
cable health and safety regulations (e.g., the test, introduce 100 mL of water for standard deviation of unaged control
OSHA standards and rules). each 0.03 m3 (1.0 ft3) of oven capacity us- specimens.
ing a vessel having a surface area of ap-
proximately 413 cm2 (64 in.2). Leave the 11.5.2 Mean breaking strength and
6. Apparatus standard deviation of aged test speci-
vents open during the entire test. At the
6.1 Conventional laboratory drying end of the 6 h of heating, remove the mens.
oven (see 13.1), uniformly heated and specimens from the oven and place in a 11.5.3 Percent loss (or gain) in strength
controlled to ± 2°C. It should be provided conditioning room. Under the conditions based on the unaged control material.
with ventilating ports and some means above, it has been found that the water 11.6 Describe any modification(s) of
for introducing moisture (see 13.2) or; will require 1.75-2.0 h to evaporate. the published method.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM26-2020 101
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Precision and Bias accomplished by natural convection or by a part of the oven where the temperature is con-
circulating system. During humidification, the stant and uniform and where all portions of
12.1 Precision. Precision for this test ports or vents should be closed to confine the tested specimens are exposed to the same tem-
method has not been established. Until a moisture within the oven for the specified perature and the same conditions of humidity
precision statement is generated for this time. and atmospheric change.
test method, use standard statistical tech- 13.2.2 Controlled amounts of water (or 13.3 A typical steam ager consists essen-
niques in making any comparisons of test steam) should be admitted into the oven at tially of a closed cylinder, 58 cm (23 in.) long
specified intervals. This may be through either by 38 cm (15 in.) diameter, inside measure-
results for either within-laboratory or be- ment, one end of which is a swinging door. A
the top or the side of the oven. The requisite
tween-laboratory averages. amount of water should be added onto a groove in the face of the cylinder holds a gas-
12.2 Bias. The accelerated ageing of heated mass of material to effect rapid vapor- ket against which the door is held tightly by a
sulfur-dyed textiles can be defined only ization. To effect this relatively rapid vapor- lever clamp. The apparatus is equipped with a
in terms of a test method. There is no in- ization, the weight of material should be pressure gauge, automatic temperature re-
dependent method for determining the approximately 100 g for each gram of water corder, steam inlet with handcock flow control
true value. As a means of estimating this admitted per hour. The amount of water ad- valve, petcock, trap and baffle of thin stainless
property, the method has no known bias. mitted should be sufficient to cause the filling steel sheet metal in the top half to prevent
of the oven with steam at atmospheric pres- dripping from condensation. A wooden frame
sure each hour (20 mL of water produces ap- 56 × 36 cm (22 × 14 in.), covered with coarse
13. Notes proximately 0.03 m3 (1 ft3) of vapor at cloth and supported by protruding bolts in the
atmospheric pressure and at 135°C). In addi- sides along the center, serves as a bottom baf-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
13.1 The oven used may be of any conven- tion to the desired rapid vaporization of the fle to prevent possible splashing. However,
tional design and constructed of conventional water admitted, the mass of metal or other ma- any steam ager equipped with the proper con-
material as long as the heating elements or terials acts as a temperature stabilizer and trols for uniform steam flow and pressure may
materials of construction do not give off gases serves to prevent a sudden drop in temperature be adapted to this test procedure.
when heated that would tend to distort the re- owing to the latent heat of vaporization of the
sults. The quantity of materials tested must water introduced. Ovens meeting the ASTM
bear a fixed relationship to the capacity of the
14. History
specifications for accelerated aging of rubber,
oven, 25 g of materials tested per 0.03 m3 equipped with automatic humidity control, are 14.1 Revised in 2020 to clarify and align
(1 ft3) of oven capacity being considered correct. acceptable (see ASTM E145, Standard Speci- with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
13.2 The temperature control must be accu- fication for Gravity-Convection and Forced- 14.2 Editorially revised 2016. Editorially
rate within ± 2°C. Care must be exercised to Ventilation Ovens). revised and reaffirmed 2013, 2009, 2004. Re-
ensure that the thermometer indicates the true 13.2.3 Provision must be made for holding affirmed 1999. Editorially revised and reaf-
and correct internal temperature of the area in specimens to be tested so that they will not firmed 1994. Editorially revised 1990.
which the samples are being tested. contact the hot metal portion of the oven. A Reaffirmed 1989, 1988, 1983, 1978. Revised
13.2.1 The oven should be equipped with suitable means is to hang the specimens by 1975. Reaffirmed 1972. Revised 1952. Reaf-
ports or vents of such size as to allow the air in strings from glass or wooden rods, avoiding firmed 1944.
the oven to be changed approximately every 2 contact with each other and with the sides of 14.3 Developed in 1943 by AATCC Com-
min except when humidifying. This may be the oven. Materials tested must be held in that mittee RR9. Maintained by RA99.

102 AATCC TM26-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM27-1952e8(2018)e2

Test Method for Wetting Agents: Evaluation of Rewetting Agents

Developed in 1944 by AATCC Committee 5.2 Cloth, fairly heavy cotton, in the liquid on the surface of the cloth loses its
RR8; jurisdiction transferred in 2003 to greige; cloth must not have been boiled, specular reflective power. This point is
AATCC Committee RA63; jurisdiction bleached or desized. Cotton sateen is sug- determined by placing the hoop between
transferred in 2022 to AATCC Commit- gested for use in this test. the observer and a source of light—such
tee RA114; revised 1952; reaffirmed 5.3 Small padder. A household wringer as a window—at such an angle that the
1971, 1974, 1977, 1980, 1989, 1999, with improvised pad box is satisfactory in specular reflection of light from the sur-
2009, 2013, 2018; editorially revised lieu of a small padder. face of the flattened drop can plainly be
and reaffirmed 1985, 1994, 2004; edi- 5.4 Embroidery hoop, 15.2 cm (6 in.). seen. As the drop is gradually absorbed
torially revised 1988, 1991, 1992, 5.5 Burette delivering 15-25 drops per the area of this tiny mirror diminishes and
2008, 2016, 2019, 2022. mL. finally vanishes entirely leaving only a
5.6 Stopwatch. dull wet spot behind. It is at this moment
1. Purpose and Scope 5.7 Conditioned room in which stan- that the watch is stopped.
dard temperature 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and
1.1 This test method provides a means humidity (65 ± 5% RH) are maintained. 7. Evaluation
of measuring the effectiveness of com- Although satisfactory comparisons can
mercial rewetting agents on cotton fabrics. 7.1 Readings of rewetting time are
be made in the ordinary laboratory, the made so easily and quickly that ten are
2. Principle results should be more reproducible un- taken for each concentration. The aver-
der standard conditions. age times of disappearance of a drop for
2.1 A test specimen is padded in a wa-
6. Procedure 2.50, 5.0, 10.0 and 20.0 g of rewetting
ter solution of a rewetting agent and
agent per liter of pad liquor are then plot-
dried. A drop of water is then carefully 6.1 Application of rewetting agent—a ted on log-log coordinate paper with con-
deposited on the taut surface of the speci- solution of the rewetting agent is prepared centration as the abscissa (X-axis). A
men and the time required for the specu- by pouring 100 mL of hot water over the straight line is drawn to approximate the
lar reflection of the water is recorded as required amount of the product in a small four points as nearly as possible.
rewetting time. beaker or casserole. This solution is 7.2 From this line relating disappearance
3. Terminology heated above 97°C (200°F) for a moment time to concentration, one can find the con-
and then is diluted with hot water to a fi- centration which would give a disappear-
3.1 rewetting agent, n.—in textile nal volume of 1 L. The temperature of the ance time of 10 s. This is called the re-
preparation, dyeing and finishing, a sur- solution in the padder box for application wetting concentration for the product. A
factant which, after application and dry- should be 70 ± 3°C (158 ± 5°F). corresponding value is then determined for
ing onto textiles, promotes rapid wetting 6.2 The padder is adjusted to a uni- the second rewetting agent. By using a sim-
on subsequent exposure to an aqueous formly firm squeeze from side to side. On ple proportion with these figures it can be
solution. a household wringer it has been found calculated how many parts of the second
3.2 wetting agent, n.—a chemical that a dozen half turns of the wing nuts product are equivalent to 100 parts of the
compound which when added to water from the place where they just begin to first product (or Standard) for rewetting.
lowers both the surface tension of the liq- take hold is satisfactory.
uid and its interfacial tension against the 6.3 A strip of the selected cotton goods 8. Precision and Bias
solid material. is padded three times through the solution
of the rewetting agent. Three times 8.1 Precision. Precision for this test
4. Safety Precautions method has not been established. Until a
through ensures thorough and uniform
NOTE: These safety precautions are penetration of the cloth. The pickup precision statement is generated for this
for information purposes only. The pre- should be from 60-90%. test method, use standard statistical tech-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- niques in making any comparisons of test
6.4 The padded cloth is dried in air at
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- results for either within-laboratory or
approximately 82°C (180°F) for 30 min.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use between-laboratory averages.
6.5 Four strips of padded cotton are
safe and proper techniques in handling 8.2 Bias. Rewetting agents can be de-
prepared for each rewetting agent repre-
materials in this test method. Manufac- fined only in terms of a test method.
senting, respectively, four concentrations
turers MUST be consulted for specific There is no independent method for de-
for each product to be tested. Concentra-
details such as material safety data sheets termining the true value. As a means of
tions generally suitable are 2.50, 5.0, 10.0
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- estimating this property, the method has
and 20.0 g of rewetting agent per liter.
tions. All OSHA standards and rules no known bias.
6.6 Rewetting—a square of the pad-
must also be consulted and followed. ded, dried and conditioned cloth is
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 9. Notes
mounted in the embroidery hoop. The bu-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all rette containing either distilled water or 9.1 For potential equipment information
laboratory areas. tap water, whichever is desired for the pertaining to this test method, please visit
4.2 Observe padder safety. Normal test, is adjusted so that it delivers one the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
safeguards on pad should not be moved. drop of water at 21 ± 3°C (70 ± 4°F) ap- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
Ensure adequate guard at the nip point. A of listing equipment and materials sold by its
proximately every 5 s. The surface of the Corporate members, but AATCC does not
foot-operated kickoff is recommended. taut cloth is held about 1 cm (0.394 in.) qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 9.1) below the tip of the burette and the stop- tify that any of the listed equipment or
watch is started just as the drop falls on materials meets the requirements in its test
5.1 Rewetting agents. the cloth. The watch is stopped when the methods.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM27-1952e8(2018)e2 103
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM30-2017e

Test Method for Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile

Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textile Materials
Developed in 1946 by AATCC Commit- kill fungi. procedure must be controlled at or below
tee RA31; revised 1952, 1957, 1971, 3.2 fungistatic, adj.—inhibiting the levels set by government authorities (e.g.,
1981, 1987, 1988 (with title change), growth of fungi or fungal spores without Occupational Safety and Health Admin-
1993, 1999, 2017; reaffirmed 1970, destroying them. istration’s [OSHA] permissible exposure
1974, 1979, 1989, 1998, 2013; editori- 3.3 mildew resistance, n.—in textiles, limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
ally revised and reaffirmed 1986, 2004; resistance to development of unsightly fun- 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
editorially revised 2010, 2019. gal growths and accompanying unpleasant, for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
musty odors on textile materials exposed can Conference of Governmental Indus-
to conditions favoring such growths. trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
3.4 rot resistance, n.—in textiles, re- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
1. General Purpose and Scope sistance to deterioration of a textile mate- weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
rial as a result of fungal growth in or on term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
1.1 The two purposes of this test it. ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
method are to determine the susceptibil- NOTE: Such deterioration is normally as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
ity of textile materials to mildew and rot assessed by measuring loss in tensile posure which should be met (see 44.2).
and to evaluate the efficacy of fungicides strength.
on textile materials.

4. Safety Precautions Test I

2. Principle Soil Burial
NOTE: These safety precautions are
2.1 Tests I, II, III and IV can be used, for information purposes only. The pre-
singly or in combination, depending on cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5. Purpose and Scope
the type of exposure to which the textile dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
material will be subjected. For example, 5.1 This procedure is used to evaluate
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use the loss of strength of textile materials
if the final product will come in contact safe and proper techniques in handling
with soil, Test I, which simulates this ex- after exposure to soil and soil micro-
materials in this test method. Manufac- organisms. This procedure is generally
posure, can be used; if the finished prod- turers MUST be consulted for specific
uct will never come in contact with soil considered to be the most severe test for
details such as material safety data sheets textile products. Only those specimens that
or tropical conditions, a much less severe and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
test (e.g., II or III) can be used. Test II is will come in direct contact with soil—
tions. All OSHA standards and rules such as sandbags, tarpaulins, tents—need
specifically designed for cellulose-con- must also be consulted and followed.
taining materials while Test III is for all to be tested by this procedure. It can also
4.1 This test should be performed only be used for testing experimental textile
others. For materials intended for outdoor by trained personnel. The U.S. Depart-
and above ground use, Test IV can be fungicides.
ment of Health and Human Services pub-
used. The two important considerations lication Biosafety in Microbiological and
when evaluating textile materials in rela- Biomedical Laboratories should be con-
tion to fungal growth are (1) the actual 6. Principle
sulted (see 44.1).
deterioration of the textile product (rot), 4.2 CAUTION: Some of the fungi used 6.1 Test specimens are buried in a con-
and (2) growth not necessarily deteriorat- in these tests are allergenic and patho- tainer of soil. After a defined incubation
ing the product, but making it unsightly genic; i.e., capable of infecting humans period, the test specimens are removed
(mildewy), often with an unpleasant and and producing disease. Therefore, every and evaluated for loss of strength.
musty odor. necessary and reasonable precaution
2.2 Certain pre-exposures of textile must be taken to eliminate this risk to the
products may be needed when specific laboratory personnel and to personnel in 7. Referenced Documents
end-uses are critical (see Appendix A). the associated environment. Wear protec-
When the end-use will be in high temper- 7.1 ASTM D5035, Standard Test
tive clothing, respiratory protection, and Method for Breaking Force and Elonga-
ature environments and the fungicide impervious gloves when working with
may be volatile, a preliminary oven expo- tion of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
the organisms. NOTE: Choose respira- (see 44.3).
sure may be desired. When the end-use tory protection that prevents penetration
will be in tropical exposures or outside by the spores.
with rainfall present, a leaching exposure 4.3 Good laboratory practices should
should be performed before mildew eval- 8. Apparatus, Reagents, Materials
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
uation is made. When at all possible, the laboratory areas. 8.1 Untreated cotton cloth, 271 ± 20 g/
textile material should be exposed to the 4.4 All chemicals should be handled m2 (8 oz ± 0.6 oz/yd2). For viability con-
expected conditions of use prior to per- with care. trol.
forming this test. 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should 8.2 Soil. See 44.4 for acceptable soil
be located nearby for emergency use. types.
3. Terminology 4.6 Sterilize all contaminated samples 8.3 Incubator. Incubating equipment to
and test materials prior to disposal. maintain a temperature of 28 ± 1°C (82 ±
3.1 fungicide, n.—a compound used to 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this 2°F).

104 AATCC TM30-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.4 Apparatus, reagents, and materials 11. Interpretation, Calculation, and tion of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
required to perform breaking strength by Evaluation (see 44.3).
method ASTM D5035.
8.5 Autoclave. To sterilize test materi- 11.1 Strength loss determination: Re-
move specimens, gently wash with water,
als prior to disposal. 17. Uses and Limitations
dry at room temperature for 22 ± 4 h and
then condition in an atmosphere of 64 ± 17.1 If the test specimen is thick or
9. Specimens 2% humidity and a temperature of 24 ± non-porous, the fungal spores may not
3°C (76 ± 6°F) for 24 h. Determine have access to minerals in the agar plate.
9.1 Prepare the fabric specimens with breaking strength by the method outlined This may cause a lack of fungal growth
dimensions 15.0 ± 1.0 × 4.0 ± 0.5 cm (6.0 in ASTM D5035, using 25 × 75 mm (1 × on the test specimen and cause mislead-
± 0.4 × 1.5 ± 0.2 in.) with the long dimen- 3 in.) jaw faces. The gage length is deter- ing results.
sion parallel to the warp and unraveling mined as 25% of the specimen length.
to 2.5 ± 0.1 cm wide (1.0 ± 0.04 in.), or, Testing can be performed every two
in the case of fabric with less than 20 weeks or as specified by the end-user.
threads per 2.5 cm (1.0 in.) to a predeter- 18. Apparatus
mined number of threads to give a speci- 18.1 Autoclave. To sterilize media and
men 2.5 ± 1.0 cm wide (1.0 ± 0.4 in.). A 12. Report
to sterilize test materials prior to disposal.
sample cutter can also be used. The num- 12.1 The report shall include the fol-
ber of specimens will vary according to 18.2 Incubator. Incubating equipment
lowing: to maintain a temperature of 28 ± 1°C (82
the number of variables. The suggested 12.1.1 The test method and test part.
number of replicate specimens is 5 (i.e., 5 ± 2°F).
12.1.2 Composition of the soil bed. 18.3 Stereo microscope.
specimens for each treatment, 5 controls
12.1.3 Number of test specimen repli- 18.4 Counting chamber suitable for de-
and 5 reference fabrics).
cates used. termining spore concentrations; e.g.,
12.1,4 Incubation time period in the hemocytometer.
10. Procedure soil bed.
18.5 Apparatus, reagents, and materi-
12.1.5 Percent retained breaking
als to perform breaking strength by
10.1 Soil Bed: Place the air-dry test strength when compared to the unex-
method ASTM D5035 (optional).
soil (see 44.4) in trays, boxes or suitable posed textile.
containers to a depth of 13.0 ± 1.0 cm 12.1.6 Any pre-exposure of specimens
(5.1 ± 0.4 in.) and bring to optimum before burying and percent retained
moisture content by gradual addition of breaking strength of untreated specimen 19. Reagents and Materials
water accompanied by mixing to avoid and/or viability control.
19.1 Organism: Chaetomium globo-
puddling. After allowing it to stand for 24
sum. American Type Culture Collection
h, sieve it through a 6.4-mm (0.25-in.)
13. Precision and Bias No. 6205 (see 44.5).
mesh screen. Maintain uniform moisture
content by covering the soil container 19.2 Ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3.
13.1 The precision and bias of this test 19.3 Dipotassium hydrogen phosphate,
with a suitable lid. The moisture content method have not been established. Refer
of the soil during the test period shall be K2HPO4.
to the precision and bias statement given
maintained at 25 ± 5% (based on dry in ASTM D5035. 19.4 Ferrous sulfate, FeSO4 · 7H2O.
weight). If the surrounding air is main- 19.5 Magnesium sulfate, MgSO4 ·
tained at higher than 83 ± 3% relative hu- 7H2O.
midity, the loss of moisture will be negli- 19.6 Potassium dihydrogen phosphate,
gible. Test II
KH2PO4.
10.2 Viability control: Expose un- Agar Plate, Chaetomium globosum
19.7 Agar.
treated cotton cloth (see 8.1) in the soil
bed for seven days during the test period 19.8 Cellulose filter paper.
to verify fungal activity. The soil bed 14. Purpose and Scope 19.9 Non-ionic wetting agent (see
shall be considered satisfactory if the via- 14.1 This procedure is used for evalu- 44.6).
bility control fabric loses 90% breaking ating rot resistance of cellulose-contain- 19.10 Gauze or glass wool, sterile.
strength after seven days exposure. ing textile materials that will not come in 19.11 Sterile scraping instrument to
10.3 Incubation: After the soil bed has contact with soil. It may also be used harvest fungal spores. Platinum or
been determined to be satisfactory based for determining uniformity of fungicide nichrome wire, plastic loop or needle,
on the viability control, place the speci- treatment. glass rod, or swab.
mens horizontally on 10.0 ± 1.0 cm (3.9
± 0.4 in.) of soil, spaced at least 2.5 cm
(1.0 in.) apart and then cover with 2.5 ± 15. Principle 20. Specimens
0.5 cm (1.0 ± 0.2 in.) of test soil. Incuba-
tion periods can vary from 2 to 16 weeks, 15.1 Test specimens are placed on an
20.1 If strength loss is to be deter-
depending on severity of service require- agar surface and inoculated with fungi. mined, prepare specimens as in Section 9.
ments, and other factors of importance to After a defined incubation period, the test
If only a visual examination of fungal
the interested parties. Maintain the tem- specimens are evaluated for loss of
growth is required, cut 3.8 ± 0.5 cm
perature at 28 ± 1°C (82 ± 2°F) during strength and/or observed for fungal (1.5 ± 0.2 in.) diameter discs from both
the test period. growth.
treated and untreated samples. If the fab-
10.4 Do not reuse soil as components ric is different on both sides, face up and
from the material(s) tested may be 16. Referenced Documents face down, shall be tested. Five replicate
present in the soil bed and may impact fu- specimens should be used; however, any
ture tests. Fresh soil must be used for 16.1 ASTM D5035, Standard Test number can be tested depending on end-
each new test. Method for Breaking Force and Elonga- users request.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM30-2017e 105
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
21. Procedure sample before exposure or the control if 26. Principle
available.
21.1 Culture medium. The mineral 26.1 Test specimens are placed on an
22.2 Visual assessment: Report the ex- agar surface and inoculated with fungi.
salts agar (see 44.7) should have the fol-
tent of fungal growth on the discs, using After a defined incubation period, the
lowing composition:
a stereo microscope (7-50×) where nec- test specimens are observed for fungal
Ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3........3.0 g essary, in accordance with the following
Potassium dihydrogen growth.
scheme:
phosphate, KH2PO4 ...................2.5 g
Dipotassium hydrogen
phosphate, K2HPO4 ...................2.0 g Observed Growth 27. Uses and Limitations
Magnesium sulfate, No growth 27.1 If the test specimen is thick or
MgSO4 · 7H2O ..........................0.2 g Microscopic growth (visible only un- non-porous, the fungal spores may not
Ferrous sulfate, FeSO4 · 7H2O......0.1 g der the microscope) have access to minerals or nutrients in the
Agar.............................................20.0 g Macroscopic growth (visible to the agar plate. This may cause a lack of fun-
Distilled water....................to 1000 mL eye) gal growth on the test specimen and
Add components together and sterilize cause misleading results.
in an autoclave at 103 kPa (15 psi) and
121°C (250°F) for 15 min. Dispense me- 23. Report
dia into sterile petri dish or other appro- 28. Apparatus, Reagents, Materials
priate sterile container, and leave undis- 23.1 The report shall include the fol-
lowing: 28.1 Organism: Aspergillus niger,
turbed until the agar hardens. American Type Culture Collection No.
21.2 Inoculum: Under aseptic condi- 23.1.1 The test method and test part.
6275 (see 44.5).
tions, place a disc of filter paper (previ- 23.1.2 Size of test specimen used. 28.2 Autoclave. To sterilize media and
ously sterilized by dry heat in an oven at 23.1.3 Number of test specimen repli- to sterilize test materials prior to disposal.
71 ± 3°C (160 ± 5°F) for 1 h) on the sur- cates used. 28.3 Stereo microscope.
face of the mineral salts agar. Streak the 23.1.4 Concentration of the fungal 28.4 Incubator. Incubating equipment
filter paper with spores of Chaetomium spore suspension. to maintain a temperature of 28 ± 1°C (82
globosum by use of a sterile instrument ± 2°F).
23.1.5 For strength loss evaluation op-
(see 19.11). Incubate at 28 ± 1°C (82 ± 28.5 Counting chamber suitable for de-
tion, report the percent retained breaking
2°F) for approximately 10-14 days to termining spore concentrations; e.g.,
strength when compared to the unex-
produce abundant growth. Remove the hemocytometer.
posed textile, any pre-exposure of speci-
filter paper from the container and add it 28.6 Culture media for preparation of
mens before burying and percent retained
to a flask containing 50 ± 1 mL of sterile inoculum. Mineral salts agar (see 21.1)
breaking strength of untreated specimen
DI water and a few sterile glass beads. containing 3.0 ± 0.1% glucose. Other
and/or viability control. For visual assess-
Shake vigorously to bring the spores into suitable media are Czapek (Dox) Agar,
ment option, report the observed growth
suspension. Filter the spore suspension Potato Dextrose Agar and Sabouraud
according to 22.2.
using sterile gauze or glass wool. Utiliz- Dextrose Agar.
ing a hemocytometer, or other cell 28.7 Test media. Mineral salts agar
counter, enumerate the number of spores (see 21.1) with or without 3.0 ± 0.1%
present to a final population of approxi- 24. Precision and Bias
glucose. Glucose may be added to the

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
mately 8.0 × 105 to 1.2 × 106 CFU/mL. mineral salts agar prior to autoclave ster-
Use this suspension as the inoculum. Sus- 24.1 The precision and bias of this test
method have not been established. Refer ilization.
pensions may be stored at 6 ± 4°C (43 ± 28.8 Non-ionic wetting agent (see
7°F) for up to 4 weeks. to the precision and bias statement given
in ASTM D5035. 44.6).
21.3 Inoculation: Pre-wet the specimen 28.9 Gauze or glass wool, sterile.
(but do not rub, squeeze, or agitate) in 28.10 Sterile scraping instrument to
water containing 0.05% of a non-ionic harvest fungal spores. Platinum or
wetting agent. Absorbent specimens Test III nichrome wire, plastic loop or needle,
should be damp but not saturated. Place Agar Plate, Aspergillus niger glass rod, or swab.
the specimen on the agar surface. Distrib-
ute 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of the inoculum evenly
over the 15.0 ± 1.0 × 4.0 ± 0.5 cm (6.0 ± 25. Purpose and Scope 29. Specimens
0.4 × 1.5 ± 0.2 in.) specimens by means
of a sterile pipette. Use 0.2 ± 0.01 mL of 25.1 Certain fungi, including Aspergil- 29.1 Cut duplicate 3.8 ± 0.5 cm (1.5 ±
inoculum for the 3.8 ± 0.5 cm (1.5 ± 0.2 lus niger, can grow on textile products 0.2 in.) diameter discs from both treated
in.) discs. Set up a control specimen, cel- without causing measurable breaking and untreated samples. If the fabric is dif-
lulose filter paper or untreated control, in strength loss within a laboratory experi- ferent on both sides, duplicate samples of
a similar way by using 1.0 ± 0.1 or 0.2 ± mental time frame. Nonetheless, their each, face up and face down, shall be
0.01 mL of sterile water. Incubate all growth may produce undesirable and untested. Other shapes and sizes can be
specimens at a temperature of 28 ± 1°C sightly effects. This procedure is used to used, provided any anticipated size of the
(82 ± 2°F) for 14 days. evaluate textile specimens where growth growth-free zone is taken into consider-
of these fungi is important. The proce- ation.
dure has the option of testing with or
22. Calculations, Interpretation, and without 3% glucose in the agar. Although
Evaluation the evaluation of fungal growth is con- 30. Procedure
ducted on top of the sample, the incorpo-
22.1 Strength loss evaluation: Proceed ration of glucose in the agar simulates ex- 30.1 Inoculum: Add 10 mL of sterile
as per 11.1 and report the change in posure of the sample to soiling conditions DI water to a ripe (7-14 days) fruiting
breaking strength as compared to the as might be encountered during use. culture of Aspergillus niger grown on a

106 AATCC TM30-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
medium described in 28.6. Scrape the 32.1.4 The agar media used to harvest 37.3 Atomizer, DeVilbiss #152 (or
surface of the culture gently with a sterile the fungi (see 28.6) and for the test media equivalent) operated at 69 ± 7 kPa (10 ±
instrument (see 28.10) to liberate the (see 28.7). 1 psi).
spores. Agitate the liquid slightly to dis- 32.1.5 Concentration of the fungal 37.4 Counting chamber suitable for de-
perse the spores without detaching myce- spore suspension. termining spore concentrations; e.g.,
lial fragments, and gently decant the 32.1.6 The incubation time. hemocytometer.
spore suspension into a flask containing 32.1.7 The observed growth-free zone 37.5 Incubator. Incubating equipment
50 ± 1 mL of sterile DI water and a few according to 31.1. to maintain a temperature of 28 ± 1°C (82
glass beads. Shake the flask thoroughly 32.1.8 The observed fungal growth ac- ± 2°F).
to bring the spores into suspension. Filter cording to 31.2. 37.6 Autoclave. To sterilize media and
the spore suspension using sterile gauze 32.1.9 The magnification used to make to sterilize test materials prior to disposal.
or glass wool. Utilizing a hemocytome- observation of microscopic growth (if 37.7 Stereo microscope.
ter, or other cell counter, enumerate the necessary).
number of spores present to a final popu-
lation of approximately 8.0 × 105 to 1.2 × 38. Reagents and Materials
106 CFU/mL. Use this suspension as the 33. Precision and Bias
38.1 Organisms (see 44.5):
inoculum. Suspensions may be stored at
33.1 The precision and bias of this test 38.1.1 Aspergillus niger, American
6 ± 4°C (43 ± 7°F) for up to 4 weeks.
method have not been established. Type Culture Collection No. 6275.
30.2 Inoculation: Mineral salts agar
38.1.2 Penicillium varians, American
with or without 3.0 ± 0.1% glucose may
Type Culture Collection No. 10509.
be used as the test media (see 28.7). Dis-
tribute evenly 0.5 ± 0.1 mL of the inocu- Test IV 38.1.3 Trichoderma viride, American
lum over the surface of the agar. Pre-wet Humidity Jar, Mixed Spore Suspension Type Culture Collection No. 28020.
the specimen (but do not rub, squeeze, or 38.2 Potato dextrose agar.
agitate) in water containing 0.05% of a 38.3 Malt agar.
non-ionic wetting agent. Absorbent spec- 34. Purpose and Scope 38.4 Yeast extract.
imens should be damp but not saturated. 38.5 Sodium chloride, NaCl.
34.1 This test method is designed to 38.6 Glycerol.
Place the specimen on the agar surface. determine the fungistatic effectiveness of
Distribute evenly over each disc 0.2 ± 38.7 Ammonium nitrate, NH4NO3.
treatments intended to control mildew 38.8 Dipotassium hydrogen phosphate,
0.01 mL of the inoculum by means of a and non-pathogenic fungal growth on ar-
sterile pipette. A negative control of ei- K2HPO4
ticles or surfaces composed of textile ma- 38.9 Magnesium sulfate, MgSO4 ·
ther filter paper or untreated cotton fabric terials intended for outdoor and above
(see 39.3) is required to ensure inoculum 7H2O.
ground use and which are usually water- 38.10 Non-ionic wetting agent (see
viability. proofed.
30.3 Incubate all specimens at a tem- 44.6).
34.2 For this test method, visual as- 38.11 Gauze or glass wool, sterile.
perature of 28 ± 1°C (82 ± 2°F) for 14 sessment is used. Additionally, breaking
days when mineral salts agar is used 38.12 Sterile scraping instrument. To
strength may be determined. harvest fungal spores. Platinum or
alone or for 7 days when 3% glucose is
nichrome wire, plastic loop or needle,
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

added.
35. Principle glass rod, or swab.

31. Interpretation and Evaluation 35.1 Treated and untreated, nutrient-

saturated strips of fabric are sprayed with 39. Specimens
31.1 If mineral salts agar containing a mixed spore suspension of mildew-
3.0 ± 0.1% glucose was used as the test 39.1 If strength loss is to be deter-
causing organisms and incubated at 90 ± mined, prepare specimens as in Section 9.
media, report the size of the growth-free 2% relative humidity. Mildew growth on
zone (in mm) if present. If only a visual examination of fungal
treated and untreated strips is rated at growth is required, cut 2.5 ± 0.5 cm × 7.5
31.2 For either medium, report the weekly intervals for up to 4 weeks.
extent of fungal growth of Aspergillus ni- ± 0.5 cm (1.0 ± 0.2 × 3.0 ± 0.2 in.) strips
ger on top of the specimens, using a ste- from sample weighing 170.0 ± 34.0 g/m2
reo microscope (7-50×) where neces- 36. Referenced Documents (5.0 ± 1.0 oz/yd2). For heavier fabrics use
sary, in accordance with the following strips 2.0 ± 0.5 cm × 2.0 ± 0.5 cm (0.8 ±
scheme: 36.1 ASTM D5035, Standard Test 0.2 × 0.8 ± 0.2 in.).
Method for Breaking Force and Elonga- 39.2 Use at least 4 specimens of each
tion of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method) treated and untreated fabric.
Observed Growth (see 44.3). 39.3 Untreated fabric strips, identical
No growth in all other respects to the treated speci-
Microscopic growth (visible only un- mens under test, are required to establish
der the microscope) 37. Apparatus the test validity. If untreated fabrics are
Macroscopic growth (visible to the not available, use a control cloth with the
eye) 37.1 Glassware: 500 mL French square
jars or equivalent with fitting screw caps. following requirements:
Caps are modified by center drilling and Cotton: American type, good
32. Report inserting an appropriate size stainless middling
steel or brass bolt to which a hook Warp: 18.5 tex z 886 ×
32.1The report shall include the fol- (formed from a 6.5 ± 0.5 cm length [2.6 ± 2S748 ± 2 tex
lowing: 0.2 in.] of #22 nickel-chromium wire or Weft: 30 tex z 630 × 2S748
32.1.1 The test method, and test part. other non-corrosive wire) is attached. ± 2 tex
32.1.2 Size of test specimen used. 37.2 Plastic paper clips or nylon thread Weave: Plain 34 ends/cm and
32.1.3 The number of test specimen to suspend the specimens from the screw 17 picks/cm ± 5 yarn
replicates used. caps of the French jars. count

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM30-2017e 107
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Mass/unit area: 230.0 ± 20 g/m2 (6.8 ± justed so that the bottom ends of attached method are being established. If the
0.6 oz/yd2) strips are all at a uniform height above breaking strength loss is determined, then
Finish: Scoured only the water level. The caps are tightened, refer to the statement given in ASTM
then backed off one-eighth turn to allow D5035.
for some ventilation.
40. Procedure 40.5 Incubate at 28 ± 1°C (82 ± 2°F)
for 14 days (for non-coated cellulosic 44. Notes
40.1 Culture medium:
40.1.1 Maintain fungal cultures indi- textiles) or 28 days (for non-cellulosic or 44.1 Publication available from U.S. De-
vidually on appropriate agar such as po- coated cellulosic textiles). partment of Health & Human Services—
tato dextrose agar for A. niger and P. CDC/NIH-HHS Publication No. (CDC) 84-
varians, and malt extract agar for T. vir- 8395; web site: www.hhs.gov.
41. Calculations, Interpretation, and 44.2 Booklet available from Publications
ide. Evaluation Office, ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330
40.1.2 Incubate cultures 7-10 days at Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240;
25 ± 1°C (77 ± 2°F), then store at 2- 10°C 41.1 A record of the percent of surface tel: +1.513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
(36-50°F). area covered with fungal growth for each 44.3 Available from ASTM International,
40.2 Preparation of conidial suspen- strip is made at weekly intervals, or until 100 Barr Harbor, W. Conshohocken PA: tel:
sions: heavy growth occurs on each sample rep- +1.610.832.9500; web site: www.astm.org.
40.2.1 Conidial suspensions of fungal licate. Using a microscope (7-50×) where 44.4 Types of soil which have been found
organisms are prepared by adding 10 mL necessary, assess each specimen in accor- satisfactory for this purpose include garden
of a sterile 0.5% saline solution contain- dance with the following scheme: and naturally fertile topsoils, composts and
non-sterile greenhouse potting soils. An equal
ing 0.05% of a non-ionic wetting agent blend of good topsoil, well rotted and shred-
(see 44.6) to a 7-10 day culture. Observed Growth ded manure, and coarse sand should be used.
40.2.2 Scrape the surface of the culture No growth These usually possess the proper physical
gently with a sterile instrument (38.13) to Microscopic growth (visible only un- characteristics, along with an organic content
liberate the spores. Agitate the liquid der the microscope) sufficient to ensure a high degree of microbial
slightly to disperse the spores without de- Macroscopic growth (visible to the activity and the presence of cellulose destroy-
taching mycelial fragments, and gently eye) ing organisms. The optimum moisture content
decant the mold suspension into a flask of these is about 30% moisture above oven dry
41.2 After 7 days each control strip weight.
containing a few glass beads. must show macroscopic growth. If this is 44.5 Available from the American Type
40.2.3 Shake the dispersion vigorously not the case, repeat the test since test con- Culture Collection, P.O. Box 1549, Manassas
to break up any clumps of spores and ditions were not valid. VA 20108; tel: +1.703.365.2700; fax:
then filter through a thin layer of sterile 41.3 Any adverse effect of incubation +1.703.365.2701; web site: www.atcc.org.
cotton or glass wool. Conidial suspen- on the fabric; e.g., color changes, flexibil- 44.6 Triton X-100, dioctyl sodium sulfos-
sions may be stored at 6 ± 4°C (43 ± 7°F) ity, water repellency, should be qualita- uccinate and N-methyl-tauride derivatives
for up to 4 weeks. tively reported. have been found to be good wetting agents.
40.2.4 Inoculum for test should be 41.4 Strength loss determination can Do not use Polysorbate 80 or Tween 80 as it
adjusted using a hemocytometer or a is known to inactivate some antimicrobials.
be carried out as per 11.1.
Petroff-Hausser bacteria counter to con- 44.7 Prepared culture medium having com-
41.5 The results of this test method position prescribed in 20.1 (Mineral Salts
tain 5 × 106 ± 2 × 105 conidia/mL on day have to be correlated to claims and direc- Agar) can be purchased from HiMedia Labo-
of use by appropriate dilution of stock tions for use recommended for the mil- ratories, A-516, Swastik Disha Business Park,
suspension with saline solution. dew control product plus any other crite- via Vadhani Industrial Estate, L.B.S. Marg,
40.3 Preparation of test specimens: ria agreed upon by the interested parties. Mumbai - 400 086, India. www.himedial-
40.3.1 To ensure luxuriant growth, abs.com (M232 AATCC Mineral Salts Agar)
both the test and control strips must be 44.8 If testing is being performed for Fed-
saturated with a sterilized glycerol nutri- 42. Report eral Standards, use AATCC TM30 (Test II).
ent solution of the following composi- Other organisms can be used: Myrothecium
tion: 97.6% distilled water, 2.0% glyc- 42.1 The report shall include the fol- verrucaria ATCC 9095, QM 460; Tricho-
erol, 0.1% K2HPO4, 0.1% NH4NO3, lowing: derma virens ATCC 9645, QM 365; Memnon-
42.1.1 The test method and test part. iella echinata ATCC 11973, QM 1225;
0.05% MgSO4 · 7H2O, 0.1% yeast extract Aspergillus niger ATCC 6275, QM 458; As-
and 0.05% of a non-ionic wetting agent 42.1.2 Size of test specimen used.
42.1.3 Number of test specimen repli- pergillus claratus ATCC 18214, QM 862.
(see 44.6). Adjust the pH to 6.3 ± 0.1.
Sufficient nutrient solution should be pre- cates used.
pared to saturate all the specimens used 42.1.4 Concentration of the fungal
in a single test. spore suspension. Appendix A
40.3.2 Soak each strip in nutrient for 42.1.5 Pressure of the atomizer. Pre-Treatments
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

three minutes or until saturated. Squeeze 42.1.6 The incubation time.

excess liquid and allow fabric strips to air 42.1.7 For strength loss evaluation, re-
port the percent retained breaking A1. Leaching
dry before proceeding with application of
test fungi. strength when compared to the unex- A1.1 The leaching should conform in
40.4 Pre-mix equal volumes of well posed textile, any pre-exposure of speci- principle to the following procedure: Wa-
agitated conidial suspensions of A. niger, mens before burying and percent retained ter from a faucet is passed through a tub-
T. viride and P. varians. Evenly distrib- breaking strength of untreated specimen ing into leaching vessels, care being
ute 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of the above suspension and/or viability control. For visual assess- taken that specimens having different
onto both sides of each specimen either ment, report the observed growth accord- amounts of the same treatment are in sep-
by spraying or by means of a pipette. ing to 41.1. arate vessels. Flow is adjusted to ensure a
40.5 Suspend fabric strips using plastic complete change of water not less than
paper clips or nylon thread from the caps 43. Precision and Bias three times in 24 h. The delivery tubes
of individual jars containing 90 ± 3 mL of are inserted down through the center of
water each. Hook position must be ad- 43.1 The precision and bias of this test wire mesh cylinders in the leaching ves-

108 AATCC TM30-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
sels and held in the wire cylinders with A3. Weathering controlled conditions may also be used.
rubber bands and leached for 24 h. The Refer to AATCC TM169, Test Method
pH and temperature of the water is re- A3.1 Portions of the material to be for Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xe-
corded and included in the report of the tested are exposed on a series of weather- non Lamp Exposure or ASTM D7869,
test results. ing racks at 45° to the horizontal facing Standard Practice for Xenon Arc Expo-
South, between April 1 and October 1, in sure Test with Enhanced Light and Water
such a manner as to avoid sagging or Exposure for Transportation Coatings.
flapping. It is recommended that such The use of an artificial weathering appa-
A2. Volatilization racks be set up in at least four locations ratus has limitations, which are listed in
within the United States; e.g., Washing- the methods mentioned. Results obtained
A2.1 Standard specimens of the fabric ton DC; Miami FL; New Orleans LA; by the use of any one artificial weather-
to be tested are exposed continuously to and suitable desert locations. ing test method may not be representative
dry heat at 100-105°C (212-221°F) for A3.2 Exposure of textile materials in of any other artificial weathering test
24 h in a well ventilated oven. an artificial weathering apparatus using method or any outdoor weathering test.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM30-2017e 109
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM35-2018e2

Test Method for Water Resistance: Rain

1. Purpose and Scope weighed blotter, is sprayed with water for tions. All OSHA standards and rules
5 min under controlled conditions. The must also be consulted and followed.
1.1 This test method is applicable to blotter is then reweighed to determine the 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
any textile fabric, which may or may amount of water which has leaked be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
not have been given a water-resistant or through the specimen during the test. laboratory areas.
water-repellent finish. It measures the
resistance to the penetration of water by
3. Terminology 5. Apparatus and Materials
impact, and thus can be used to predict
the probable rain penetration resistance 3.1 water resistance, n.—of fabric, the 5.1 AATCC Rain Tester (see Figs. 1, 2
of fabrics. It is especially suitable for characteristic to resist wetting and pene- and 3 and 11.3).
measuring the penetration resistance of tration by water. (See also water repel- 5.2 White AATCC Textile Blotting
garment fabrics. With the instrument, lency.) Paper (see 11.4).
tests may be made at different intensi-
ties (see 11.1) of water impact to give a 4. Safety Precautions 6. Test Specimens
complete overall picture of the penetra-
tion resistance of a single fabric or a NOTE: These safety precautions are 6.1 A minimum of three specimens of
combination of fabrics. for information purposes only. The pre- 20 × 20 cm is cut from the test fabric. The
1.2 The results obtained with this test cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- fabric samples and the blotting paper
method depend on the water repellency dures and are not intended to be all inclu- should be conditioned in an atmosphere
of the fibers and yarns, and on the con- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use of 65 ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2ºC (70 ± 4°F)
struction of the fabric. safe and proper techniques in handling for at least 4 h before testing.
materials in this test method. Manufac-
2. Principle turers MUST be consulted for specific 7. Procedure
details such as material safety data sheets
2.1 A test specimen, backed by a and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 7.1 The test specimen (see 11.5),

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Fig. 1—Rain tester, complete assembly. Fig. 2—Rain tester, structural details.

110 AATCC TM35-2018e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 3—Rain tester, nozzle.

backed by a 15.2 × 15.2 cm standard pa- 9. Report 11.2 The temperature of the supply water
per blotter weighed to the nearest 0.1 g is may be measured by means of a thermometer,
clamped in the specimen holder and the 9.1 Report the individual determina- but recent work has shown that it is more con-
assembly is mounted in a vertical rigid tions. For values of over 5.0 g simply re- veniently and accurately measured with a ther-
port as 5 + g or > 5 g. mometer suspended in the glass pressure
support frame. The specimen assembly is column or immersed in a beaker placed to
positioned into the central portion of the catch water from the overflow.
spray at a distance of 30.5 cm from the 10. Precision and Bias 11.3 The AATCC Rain Tester is available
face of the spray nozzle (see 11.6). A hor- from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Trian-
izontal water spray at 27 ± 1°C (81 ± 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test gle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
2°F) (see 11.2) is directed against the method has not been established. Until a +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
specimen and is allowed to continue for a precision statement is generated for this web site: www.aatcc.org. Information relative
period of 5 min. At the end of the spray test method, use standard statistical tech- to the principle of the instrument may be ob-
period the blotter is carefully removed niques in making any comparisons of test tained by reference to the original article by
Slowinske, G.A. and Pope, A.G., American Dye-
and quickly reweighed to the nearest 0.1 g. results for either within-laboratory or stuff Reporter, Vol. 36, 1947, p108.
between-laboratory averages. 11.4 Blotters suitable for this test can be
8. Evaluation 10.2 Bias. The bias derived by this pro- obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
cedure can be defined only in terms of a Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.
8.1 Water penetration as indicated by test method. There is no independent, ref- 919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
the increase in mass of the blotting paper eree test method by which bias may be [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
during the 5 min test period is calculated, determined. This test method has no 11.5 The test specimen may comprise (a) a
and the average for the three test speci- known bias.
single layer of the test fabric, (b) two layers of
mens is reported. Individual determina- the test fabric, or (c) a combination of two dif-
tions or average values of over 5.0 g may ferent fabrics such as the outer fabric of a rain-
be simply reported to 5 + g or > 5 g. 11. Notes coat and the lining fabric.
11.6 A loose-fitting cap may be placed over
8.2 In order to obtain a complete over- the end of the spray nozzle to shut off the
11.1 The intensities are produced and con-
all picture of the penetration resistance of trolled by means of a column of water which spray during the mounting or the removal of
a fabric or fabric combination the average may be adjusted to 0.6, 0.9, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.1 the specimen holder in the support frame.
penetration with different pressure heads and 2.4 m above the nozzle. This is done by
on the nozzle should be obtained. The means of a glass pressure column to which a 12. History
pressure head should be varied by 300 nozzle is connected. The adjustment is made
mm increments in order to determine (a) by a simple setting of a valve at the lower end 12.1 Editorially revised in 2021 to remove
the maximum head at which no penetra- of the drain or overflow pipe which extends up excess wording from Figure 2 and to add his-
tion occurs, (b) the change in penetration through the center of the glass column. A fil- tory section.
with increasing head and (c) the mini- tering device between the pressure gauge and 12.2 Reaffirmed 1952, 1963, 1964, 1967,
mum head required to cause “break- the glass column may be used to prevent clog- 1969, 1971, 1974, 1977, 1980, 1985, 1989,
ging of the nozzle openings. It may be elimi- 2006, 2013; editorially revised 1983, 1987,
down” or the penetration of more than 5 g nated in localities where the water supply is 1998, 2004, 2009, 2016, 2019; editorially re-
of water. At each pressure head a mini- relatively free from iron rust or other sus- vised and reaffirmed 1994; revised 2000,
mum of three specimens should be tested pended matter. A pressure gauge on the supply 2018. Technically equivalent to ISO 22958.
in order to obtain the average penetration line also is an accessory which usually can be 12.3 Developed in 1947 by AATCC Com-
for that head. eliminated in the interest of economy. mittee RA63.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM35-2018e2

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
111
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM42-2017e

Test Method for Water Resistance: Impact Penetration

Developed in 1945 by AATCC Commit-
tee RA63; revised 1952, 2000, 2017; re-
affirmed 1957, 1961, 1964, 1967,
1971, 1977, 1980, 1989, 2007, 2013;
editorially revised and reaffirmed 1985,
1994; editorially revised 1986, 1987,
2009, 2014, 2016, 2019. Technically
equivalent to ISO 18695.

1. Purpose and Scope

1.1 This test method is applicable to
any textile fabric, which may or may not
have been given a water-resistant or wa-
ter-repellent finish. It measures the resis-
tance of fabrics to the penetration of wa-
ter by impact, and thus can be used to
predict the probable resistance of fabrics
to rain penetration. It is especially suit-
able for measuring the penetration resis-
tance of garment fabrics.
1.2 The results obtained with this test
method depend on the water repellency
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

of the fibers and yarns and on the con-

struction and finish of the fabric.
2. Principle
2.1 A volume of water is allowed to
spray against a taut surface of a test spec-
imen backed by a weighed blotter. The
blotter is then reweighed to determine
water penetration and the specimen is
classified accordingly.
3. Terminology
3.1 water resistance, n.—of fabric, the
characteristic to resist wetting and pene-
tration by water. (See also water repel-
lency.)
4. Safety Precautions Fig. 1—Impact penetration Type I tester. Fig. 2—Impact penetration Type II tester.

NOTE: These safety precautions are

for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.1.2 Type II tester (see 11.1, Figs. 2, 3 7. Procedure
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use and 4)
7.1 One end of the specimen is
safe and proper techniques in handling 5.2 White AATCC Textile Blotting
clamped under the 152 mm spring clamp
materials in this test method. Manufac- Paper (see 11.2)
at the top of the inclined stand. Another
turers MUST be consulted for specific 5.3 Water, distilled, deionized or re- 152 ± 10 mm clamp, of 0.4536 kg ± 10%
details such as material safety data sheets verse osmosis total mass, is clamped at the free end of
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.4 Balance accurate to 0.1 g the test specimen. A standard blotter pa-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules per 152 × 230 mm is weighed to the near-
must also be consulted and followed. est 0.1 g and inserted beneath the test
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6. Test Specimens
specimen.
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.1 A minimum of three specimens are 7.2 A 500 ± 10 mL volume of distilled,
laboratory areas. taken, each 178 × 330 mm, with the warp deionized or reverse osmosis water at 27 ±
5. Apparatus and Materials
(machine direction of the fabric) in the 1°C is poured into a funnel of the tester
long direction. The specimens and the and allowed to spray onto the test speci-
5.1 Impact penetration testers blotting paper should be conditioned in an men. The water should be poured into the
5.1.1 Type I tester (see 11.1, Figs. 1, 3 atmosphere of 65 ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C funnel without imparting any swirling
and 4) (70 ± 4°F) for at least 4 h before testing. motion of the water in the funnel. (A small

112 AATCC TM42-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 3—Structural details of impact penetration tester. Fig. 4—Details of spray head.

blade fixed to the inside of the funnel and exercise conventional statistical caution in a test method. There is no independent,

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
extending down its side, will prevent any making any comparisons of test results referee method for determining the true
swirling motion from being initiated.) and apply these findings with due caution. value. This test method has no known bias.
7.3 Upon completion of the spraying pe- 10.1.3 Variances ranged in value from
riod, the test specimen is carefully lifted, 0.1-0.4 with an average value of 0.23 11. Notes
the blotter beneath removed, and then (standard deviation = 0.48) for the Type I
quickly reweighed to the nearest 0.1 g. tester, as determined by analysis of vari- 11.1 Impact Penetration Testers (see Figs.
ance. Critical differences, based on these 1, 2, 3 and 4). These testers, Types I and II, are
8. Evaluation a combination of the spray test apparatus used
values and a 95% probability level, may in AATCC TM22, Test Method for Water Re-
8.1 The increase in mass of the blotter be applied to determine significance (see pellency: Spray Test, plus the impact penetra-
in grams is calculated and the average re- Table I). tion head and stand. The Type II tester is a
sult of the three test specimens is re- 10.1.4 Variances ranged in value from more sturdy version of the Type I tester with
ported. Individual determinations or av- 0.0-0.1 with an average value of 0.01 the addition of a drip catcher. Both these
(standard deviation = 0.10) for the Type testers are available from AATCC, P.O. Box
erage values of over 5.0 g may be simply 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
reported as + 5.0 g or > 5.0 g. II tester, as determined by analysis of
variance. Critical differences, based on +1.919.549. 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
9. Report these values and a 95% probability level,
11.2 Blotters suitable for this test can be
may be applied to determine significance obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
9.1 Report the individual determina- (see Table II). Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
tions and the average. For values of over 10.2 Bias. The values derived by this +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
5.0 g simply report as + 5.0 g or > 5.0 g. procedure can be defined only in terms of [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
9.2 Report the test method number and
which piece of equipment was used.
10. Precision and Bias Table I—Within-Laboratory Table II—Within-Laboratory
Critical Differences Critical Differences
10.1 Precision. In 1998, a limited in-
tralaboratory study was completed. The Type I Tester—95% Probability Level Type II Tester—95% Probability Level
same operator tested all samples.
Det in Avg Standard Critical Det in Avg Standard Critical
10.1.2 Three sets of fabrics were ana- (N) Error Differences (N) Error Differences
lyzed using both pieces of equipment.
Each fabric was evaluated 15 times and 1 0.48 1.11 1 0.17 0.40
averages calculated for each group of 3 0.28 0.64 3 0.10 0.23
three. This single laboratory data set was 5 0.21 0.50 5 0.08 0.18
analyzed and used in writing a temporary 7 0.18 0.41 7 0.07 0.15
precision statement, pending a full inter- N = Number of determinations per average N = Number of determinations per average
laboratory study. Until a full study is com- SE = Standard Error for N determinations SE = Standard Error for N determinations
pleted, users of the method are advised to CD = 2.306 SE CD = 2.306 SE

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM42-2017e 113
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM43-1952e6(2018)e

Test Method for Wetting Agents for Mercerization

Developed in 1941 by AATCC Commit- ing of sodium hydroxide. ration of an immiscible layer on the sur-
tee RR8; jurisdiction transferred in 4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should face would entirely vitiate the results and
2003 to AATCC Committee RA63; juris- be located nearby and a self-contained give false values.
diction transferred in 2022 to AATCC breathing apparatus should be readily 6.2 From the greige (unboiled), 40/2,
Committee RA114; revised 1945, 1952; available for emergency use. combed peeler cotton yarn, cut a bundle
reaffirmed 1971, 1974, 1977, 1980, 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this of 120 parallel ends, 25 mm (1 in.) in
1985, 1989, 1999, 2009, 2013, 2018; procedure must be controlled at or below length. This bundle of yarn ends is
editorially revised 1986, 1991, 2008, levels set by governmental authorities dropped carefully onto the surface of one
2010, 2019, 2022; editorially revised (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health of the caustic solutions of penetrant, and
and reaffirmed 1994, 2004. Related to Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- the time required for complete wetting of
ISO 6836. posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR all the ends is noted with a stopwatch.
1910.1000; see web site www.osha.gov The average of five determinations is
for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- taken as the sinking time for that concen-
1. Purpose and Scope can Conference of Governmental Indus- tration.
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold 6.3 In like manner the average sinking
1.1 This test method is applicable only Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time time is determined at the other two con-
to the evaluation of wetting agents in weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short centrations for the penetrant under test.
caustic soda of mercerizing concentra- term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and Then the average sinking times for the
tion. ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended standard at the same three concentrations
as a general guide for air contaminant ex- are determined by the same procedure.
2. Principle posure which should be met (see 9.1).

2.1 A 25 mm (1 in.) long bundle of cot- 7. Evaluation

ton yarns composed of 120 ends is care- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 9.2)
7.1 The three average sinking times to
fully dropped onto the surface of a test 5.1 Beakers, 250 mL. the nearest tenth second for the product
solution and the time for complete wet- under test and for the standard are plotted
5.2 Mohr measuring pipettes (0.1 grad-
ting of all ends is determined. as ordinates on log-log coordinate paper
uation), 1 or 2 mL.
5.3 Volumetric transfer pipettes, 100 against concentrations of wetting agent in
3. Terminology mL. milliliters per 100 mL of caustic soda so-
5.4 Stopwatch. lution. Straight lines should be obtained
3.1 mercerization, n.—a process for 5.5 Scissors. when the points are joined.
irreversibly altering the physical charac- 5.6 Ruler. 7.2 The number of milliliters of prod-
teristics and appearance of natural cellu- uct under test which are required to give
5.7 Cotton yarn, greige (unboiled), 40/2
losic fibers by swelling in strong alkali. the same wetting time as 1 mL of stan-
combed peeler, preferably in form of
3.2 wetting agent, n.—a chemical dard is read from the plot. If the product
chain warp or skein.
compound which when added to water is either too efficient or too inefficient to
lowers both the surface tension of the liq- 5.8 Standard mercerizing penetrant
against which comparisons can be made. obtain a comparison within the range of
uid and its interfacial tension against the the volumes already employed, then ei-
solid material. 5.9 Mercerizing caustic soda with a
specific gravity of 48-52% Tw (271-299 ther a smaller (0.5 mL) or a larger (2.0 or
g NaOH per liter of soln). Allow to stand 2.5 mL) volume of the product must be
4. Safety Precautions several hours (until clear) after prepara- tested. Making the assumption that the
tion. standard and the product are reasonably
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.10 Log-log coordinate paper. the same in specific gravity, the same
for information purposes only. The prewetting effect as 100 parts of standard is
cautions are ancillary to the testing pro- obtained from the following formula:
cedures and are not intended to be all 6. Procedure
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility x = 100 v
to use safe and proper techniques in 6.1 Into each of three 250 mL beakers where:
handling materials in this test method. measure out 100 mL of the mercerizing x = parts of product being tested
Manufacturers MUST be consulted for caustic soda solution at 26 ± 3°C (78 ± which are equivalent to 100 parts
specific details such as material safety 5°F). Pipette into one beaker 0.75 mL, of standard and
data sheets and other manufacturer’s rec- into the next 1.00 mL and into the third v = volume of product in milliliter to
ommendations. All OSHA standards and beaker 1.25 mL of the mercerizing pene- give same wetting times as 1 mL
rules must also be consulted and fol- trant using a suitable small pipette. Mer- of standard.
lowed. cerizing wetting agents all seem to be liq-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should uids. Stir the contents of each beaker until
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all the penetrant is completely dissolved in 8. Precision and Bias
laboratory areas. the caustic soda. These solutions are al-
4.2 All chemicals should be handled lowed to stand until all air bubbles have 8.1 Precision. Precision for this test
with care. Use chemical goggles or face risen to the surface. It should be particu- method has not been established. Until a
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- larly noticed if the penetrant remains well precision statement is generated for this
vious apron during dispensing and mix- dispersed or dissolved because the sepa- test method, use standard statistical tech-

AATCC TM43-1952e6(2018)e
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
114 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
niques in making any comparisons of test method has no known bias. pertaining to this test method, please visit
results for either within-laboratory or the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
between-laboratory averages. 9. Notes aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
8.2 Bias. Wetting agents for merceriza- 9.1 Available from Publications Office, Corporate members, but AATCC does not
tion can be defined only in terms of a test ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
method. There is no independent method Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. tify that any of the listed equipment or
for determining the true value. As a 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. materials meets the requirements in its test
means of estimating this property, the 9.2 For potential equipment information methods.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM43-1952e6(2018)e 115
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020)

Test Method for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated

1. Purpose and Scope and/or stains by treatment (washing) with (AATCC EP1) (see 12.4).
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- 5.2.3 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC
1.1 These accelerated laundering tests mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- EP2) (see 12.4).
are to evaluate the colorfastness to laun- tracting and drying. 5.3 Reagents and materials.
dering of textiles which are expected to 5.3.1 Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm
withstand frequent laundering. The fabric [0.33 in.] bands) containing acetate, cot-
4. Safety Precautions
color loss and surface changes resulting ton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and wool.
from detergent solution and abrasive ac- NOTE: These safety precautions are Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33 in.]
tion of five typical hand or home launder- for information purposes only. The pre- bands) and (15 mm [0.6 in.] bands) con-
ings, with or without chlorine, are cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- taining acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester,
roughly approximated by one 45 min test dures and are not intended to be all inclu- acrylic and wool (see 12.5).
(see 9.2-9.6). However, the staining ef- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.3.2 Bleached cotton test fabric, 32 ×
fect produced by five typical hand or safe and proper techniques in handling 32 ends × picks/cm (80 × 80 ends ×
home launderings cannot always be pre- materials in the test method. Manufactur- picks/in.) construction, 100 ± 3 g/m2 (3.0
dicted by the 45 min test. Staining is a ers MUST be consulted for specific de- ± 0.1 oz/yd2), desized without optical
function of the ratio of colored to undyed tails such as material safety data sheets brightener (see 12.5).
fabrics, fiber content of fabrics in the and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.3.3 AATCC 1993 Standard Refer-
wash load and other end-use conditions tions. All OSHA standards and rules ence Detergent Without Brightener
which are not always predictable. must also be consulted and followed. (WOB) (see 10.5 and 12.6).
1.2 When this test method was origi- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 5.3.4 AATCC 1993 Standard Refer-
nally developed, various options of this be followed. Wear safety glasses in all ence Detergent With Brightener (see 10.5
method were intended to evaluate the laboratory areas. and 12.6).
color change and staining by five home 4.2 All chemicals should be handled 5.3.5 Water, distilled or deionized (see
or commercial launderings, on an accel- with care. 12.7).

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
erated basis. Throughout the years, com- 4.3 The AATCC 1993 Standard Refer- 5.3.6 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl)
mercial laundering procedures have ence Detergents (with and without optical bleach (see 12.8).
changed and commercial cleaning today brighteners) may cause irritation. Care 5.3.7 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 10% (see
involves many different types of pro- should be taken to prevent exposure to 12.8.1).
cesses, dependent on the type of product skin and eyes. 5.3.8 Potassium iodide (KI), 10% (see
being cleaned that cannot be duplicated 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should 12.8.1).
by one accelerated laboratory procedure. be located nearby for emergency use. 5.3.9 Sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O3),
In 2005, all references to commercial 4.5 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 0.1N (see 12.8.1).
laundering were removed as it is not dations should be followed when operat- 5.3.10 Crockmeter test cloth cut in 50
known if these procedures accurately rep- ing laboratory testing equipment. mm (2 in.) squares (see 12.9).
licate typical commercial laundering pro- 5.3.11 White cards (specimen mounts)
cesses used today. 5. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials with Y tristimulus value at least 85%.
(see 12.1)
2. Principle 6. Test Specimens
5.1 Accelerated laundering machine.
2.1 Specimens are tested under appro- 5.1.1 A laundering machine for rotat- 6.1 The sizes of the specimens required
priate conditions of temperature, deter- ing closed canisters in a thermostatically for the various tests are as follows:
gent solution, bleaching and abrasive ac- controlled water bath at 40 ± 2 rpm. 50 × 100 mm (2.0 × 4.0 in.) for Test
tion such that the color change is similar 5.1.2 Stainless steel lever lock canis- No. 1A,
to that occurring in five hand or home ters Type 1 500 mL (1 pt), 75 × 125 mm 50 × 150 mm (2.0 × 6.0 in.) for Tests
launderings. The color change is obtained (3.0 × 5.0 in.) for Test No. 1A. No. 1B, 2A, 3A, 4A and 5A.
in a conveniently short time. The abra- 5.1.3 Stainless steel lever lock canisters 6.2 Test only one specimen in each
sive action is a result of the frictional ef- Type 2 1200 mL, 90 × 200 mm (3.5 × 8.0 canister.
fects of fabric against canister, the low li- in.) for Tests No. 1B, 2A, 3A, 4A and 5A. 6.2.1 Test one specimen per laboratory
quor ratio and the impact of the steel balls 5.1.4 Adapter plates for holding canisters sample. Replication may be advisable for
on the fabric. (see 5.1.3) on laundering machine shaft. improved precision.
5.1.5 Stainless steel balls, 6 mm (0.25 6.3 To determine staining in Tests No.
3. Terminology in.) in diameter. 1A and 2A, use multifiber test fabric. To
5.1.6 White Synthetic (SBR) Rubber determine staining in Test No. 3A, use ei-
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of Balls 9-10 mm (3/8 in.) dia. 70 Durome- ther multifiber test fabric or bleached cot-
a material to change in any of its color ter hardness for Test 1B (see 12.1) ton test fabric. With respect to Test No. 3A,
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 5.1.7 Teflon fluorocarbon gaskets (see the use of multifiber test fabric is optional
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 7.4.2 and 12.2). but the staining of acetate, nylon, polyester
result of the exposure of the material to 5.1.8 Preheater/storage module (see and acrylic is disregarded unless one of
any environment that might be encoun- 7.4, 12.1 and 12.3). these fibers is present in the fabric being
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 5.2 Scales for rating test results. tested or known to be in the final garment.
age or use of the material. 5.2.1 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- For Test 3A, multifiber test fabric with
3.2 laundering, n.—of textile mate- ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 12.4). heat-sealed edges is recommended. Stain-
rials, a process intended to remove soils 5.2.2 Gray Scale for Color Change ing is not determined in Tests No. 4A and

116 AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
5A (see 12.10 and 12.11). 7. Procedure perature. They are to remain in the
6.4 Specimen preparation. module for at least 2 min. Enter a well
7.1 Table I summarizes the conditions crumpled test specimen into each canister.
6.4.1 Preparation with multifiber test of the tests. 7.4.2 Clamp the covers on the canis-
fabric with individual component bands 7.2 Adjust the laundering machine to ters. A Teflon fluorocarbon gasket (see
8 mm (0.33 in.) wide or with bleached maintain the designated bath tempera- 5.1.6) may be inserted between the neo-
cotton test fabric. Prepare pieces with a ture. Prepare the required volume of prene gasket and the top of each canister
50 mm (2.0 in.) square of multifiber test wash liquor. Preheat this solution to the to prevent contamination of the wash so-
fabric cloth or bleached cotton test fabric prescribed temperature. lution by the neoprene. Fasten the 75 ×
(as required) sewn, stapled or suitably 7.3 Run Test No. 1A in 75 × 125 mm 125 mm (3.0 × 5.0 in.) lever lock canis-
attached along one 50 mm (2.0 in.) edge (3.0 × 5.0 in.) lever lock stainless steel ters vertically and the 90 × 200 mm (3.5
of the test specimen and in contact with canisters. Run Tests No. 2A, 3A, 4A and × 8.0 in.) lever lock canisters horizontally
the face of the material. When multifiber 5A in 90 × 200 mm (3.5 × 8.0 in.) lever in the adapters on the rotor of the laun-
test fabric is used, attach it so that each of lock stainless steel canisters. dering machine in such a manner that
the six fiber bands is along the 50 mm 7.3.1 For Tests No. 1A, 1B, 2A and when the canisters rotate, the covers
(2.0 in.) edge of the specimen with the 3A, add to the canister the amount of de- strike the water first. Place an equal num-
wool on the right. The fiber bands in the tergent solution designated in Table I. ber of canisters on each side of the shaft.
multifiber test fabric will be parallel to the 7.3.2 For Test No. 4A, prepare a 1500 For canisters preheated in the module,
lengthwise direction of the test specimen. ppm available chlorine solution. For 1 L, proceed to 7.7.
determine the amount of stock sodium 7.5 Start the rotor and run it for at least
6.4.2 Preparation with multifiber test hypochlorite bleach solution (see 12.8) to
fabric with individual component bands 2 min to preheat the canisters.
dilute as follows: 7.6 Stop the rotor and with a row of
15 mm (0.6 in.) wide. Prepare pieces with
a 50 × 100 mm (2.0 × 4.0 in.) rectangle of 159.4/% NaOCl = g to add canisters in an upright position, unclamp
multifiber test fabric sewn, stapled or Weigh the correct amount of bleach into a the cover of one canister, enter a well
suitably attached centered along one 100 volumetric flask and dilute to 1 L. To crumpled test specimen into the solution
mm (4.0 in.) or 150 mm (6.0 in.) edge of each canister, add 5 mL of 1500 ppm and replace the cover, but do not clamp it.
the test specimen and in contact with the available chlorine solution and 45 mL of Repeat this operation until all the canis-
face of the material. Attach it so that each detergent solution making a total volume ters in the row have been loaded. Then
of the six fiber bands will be parallel to of 50 mL. clamp the covers in the same order in
the widthwise direction of the specimen. 7.3.3 For Test No. 5A, determine the which the canisters were loaded (delay
Attach and secure the wool band at the amount of stock sodium hypochlorite clamping the covers to allow equalization
top of the specimen to avoid fiber loss. bleach solution (see 12.8) to dilute as of pressure). Repeat this operation until
follows: all rows of canisters have been loaded.
6.4.3 It is recommended that knitted 7.7 Start the laundering machine and
fabrics be sewn or stapled at the four 4.54/% NaOCl = g to add run it at 40 ± 2 rpm for 45 min.
edges to equivalent size pieces of Weigh the correct amount of bleach into a 7.8 The rinsing, extracting and drying
bleached cotton test fabric to avoid rolled graduated cylinder and add detergent so- procedures are the same for all the tests.
edges and to assist in obtaining a uniform lution to make a total volume of 150 mL. Stop the machine, remove the canisters
test result over the entire surface. Attach Prepare this solution separately for each and empty the contents into beakers,
the multifiber test fabric to the face of the canister. keeping each test specimen in a separate
knitted fabric. 7.3.4 For all the tests, add the desig- beaker. Rinse each test specimen three
6.4.4 For pile fabric specimens with a nated number of stainless steel balls or times, in beakers, in distilled or deionized
pile lay direction, attach the multifiber white rubber balls to each canister. water at 40 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) for 1 min
test fabric at the top of the specimen with 7.4 The two options for preheating the periods with occasional stirring or hand
the pile lay direction pointing away from canisters to the test temperature are by squeezing. To remove excess water, cen-
the top of the specimen. use of the laundering machine or the pre- trifuge, blot or pass the test specimens
heater/storage unit. If the canisters are to through wringer rolls. Dry the specimens
6.5 When the textile to be tested is
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

be preheated in the laundering machine, in an air circulating oven in which the

yarn, specimens may be tested using Op- proceed to 7.4.2. temperature does not exceed 71°C
tion 1 or Option 2. 7.4.1 Place the canisters in the pre- (160°F), or tumble dry in a nylon mesh
6.5.1 Option 1. Knit yarn on an appro- heater module at the prescribed test tem- bag in an automatic tumble dryer at nor-
priate sample knitting machine. Prepare
specimens and multifiber test fabrics ac-
cording to 6.1-6.4.3. Keep one knitted Table I—Test Conditions a
specimen of each sample as an unwashed
original. Percent Percent Percent
Temp Total Powder Liquid Available
6.5.2 Option 2. Prepare two 110 m Liquor Detergent Detergent Chlorine No. No. of
(120 yd) skeins of each yarn. Fold the Test Volume of Total of Total of Total Steel Rubber Time
skein so that there is a uniform amount of No.b °C (± °2) °F (± °4) (mL) Volume Volume Volume Balls Balls (Min)
yarn across a 50 mm (2 in.) width with a 1A 40 105 200 0.37 0.56 None 10 0 45
length appropriate for the procedure to be b
1Bc 31 88 150 0.37 0.56 None 0 10 20
used. Keep one skein of each sample as 2A 49 120 150 0.15 0.23 None 50 0 45
an unwashed original. Sew or staple 3A 71 160 50 0.15 0.23 None 100 0 45
Crockmeter test cloth squares (see 12.9) 4A 71 160 50 0.15 0.23 0.015 100 0 45
or squares of bleached cotton test fabric 5A 49 120 150 0.15 0.23 0.027 50 0 45
having approximately the same weight a
Refer to Section 9 for objectives for each test method.
folded over each end of the layered yarn b
All Tests include an alternate use for 2003 AATCC Standard Liquid Detergent which has been discontinued and is
specimen. Attach a multifiber test fabric no longer available. (See 12.6.)
according to 6.4.1 or 6.4.2. c
Test 1B provides for the use of White Rubber Balls instead of Stainless Steel Balls.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020) 117
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
mal cycle, which has an exhaust tempera- the aperture diameter capability of many (120 ± 5°F) with 200 ± 1 ppm available
ture of 60-71°C (140-160°F), or air dry. colorimeters and spectrophotometers (see chlorine.
7.9 Allow specimens to condition at 65 AATCC EP6, Instrumental Color Mea-
± 5% relative humidity and 21 ± 2°C (70 surement and 12.14). 10. Report
± 4°F) for 1 h before evaluating.
7.10 Prepare tested fabric specimens 9. Interpretation of Results 10.1 Report the test number.
and adjacent fabrics for evaluation by 10.2 Report the grade number deter-
trimming off raveled yarns and lightly 9.1 Results from these tests are in- mined for color change in 8.1 and the
brushing off any loose fiber and yarn on tended to approximate the color change staining grade numbers for the evaluated
the fabric surfaces. Brush pile fabric effects (see 1.1) of five typical home fibers in the multifiber test fabric and/or
specimens in required direction to restore launderings. These are accelerated tests, bleached cotton test fabric as determined
them as nearly as possible to the same and in obtaining the required degree of in 8.2.
pile angle as the untreated specimens. acceleration some of the conditions, such 10.3 State which scale (Gray Scale for
Specimens should be smoothed or flat- as temperature, were purposely exagger- Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic
tened if they are wrinkled and messy due ated. The tests have remained largely the Transference Scale) was used in evaluat-
to washing and/or drying. Specimens same over many years while laundry de- ing staining (see 12.12).
may be mounted on cards to facilitate tergents, washers and dryers, laundry 10.4 Report the multifiber test fabric
identification and handling in their evalu- practices and fabrics have changed (see used and if bleached cotton test fabric
ation. For consistency in backing mate- AATCC LP1. was employed to avoid knit curling.
rial, use a white mounting card with Y 9.2 Test No. 1A—This test is for evalu- 10.5 Report the detergent used with color
tristimulus value of at least 85%. Mount- ating the colorfastness of textiles that are change and staining results (see 12.6).
ing material must not be visible in the expected to withstand repeated hand 10.6 Report which laundering ma-
area to be viewed and must not interfere laundering at low temperature. Speci- chine is used.
with rating as specified in 5.1 of both mens subjected to this test should show
AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2 for the color change similar to that produced by 11. Precision and Bias (see 12.15)
Gray Scale for Color Change and Gray five typical careful hand launderings at a
Scale for Staining or instrumental assess- temperature of 40 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F). 11.1 Precision and bias statements
ment of color according to AATCC EP7, 9.3 Test No. 1B—This test is for evalu- have been developed for Tests No. 2A
Instrumental Assessment of the Change ating the colorfastness of textiles that are and 5A. Although correlation work has
in Color of a Test Specimen (see 12.4). expected to withstand repeated hand been done, no precision and bias state-
7.10.1 Yarn skein specimens should be laundering at cool temperatures. Speci- ments have been developed for Tests No.
combed and brushed for improved align- mens subjected to this test should show 1A, 3A and 4A.
ment of the yarns before comparison with color change similar to that produced by 11.1.1 Because of changes in the deter-
the unwashed original. The original spec- five typical careful hand launderings at a gents used in this method, these precision
imens may also need further combing and temperature of 27 ± 3°C (80 ± 5°F). and bias statements may not apply to data
brushing for uniformity of appearance. 9.4 Test No. 2A—This test is for eval- or information obtained with the cur-
uating the colorfastness to washing of rently available detergents.
11.2 Test No. 2A.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

8. Evaluation (see 12.16) textiles that are expected to withstand re-

peated low temperature machine launder- 11.2.1 Summary. An interlaboratory
8.1 Evaluation of color change. ing in the home. Specimens subjected to test was carried out in May 1985 to estab-
8.1.1 Evaluate the color change of the this test should show color change similar lish the precision of Test No. 2A. A part
test specimens by comparison with the to that produced by five home machine of the test was to determine if the wider
Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC launderings at medium or warm setting in 15 mm (0.6 in.) No. 10A multifiber test
EP1), or using AATCC EP7, Instrumental the temperature range of 38 ± 3°C (100 ± fabric could be substituted for the 8 mm
Assessment of the Change in Color of a 5°F). (0.33 in.) wide No. 10. The complete test
Test Specimen, and record the numerical 9.5 Test No. 3A—This test is for evalu- consisted of six laboratories evaluating
rating that corresponds to the appropriate ating colorfastness to washing of textiles 10 materials in duplicate by one operator
one on the Gray Scale. For improved pre- considered washable under vigorous con- using Test No. 2A.
cision and accuracy the specimens should ditions. Specimens subjected to this test 11.2.2 Color Change. Three raters
be rated by more than one rater. should show color change similar to that from six laboratories independently eval-
8.2 Evaluation of staining. produced by five home machine launder- uated nine materials in duplicate using
8.2.1 Evaluate staining (see 12.10) by ings at 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F), without the Gray Scale for Color Change. The
comparison with the Gray Scale for chlorine. components of variance as standard devi-
Staining (AATCC EP2), the AATCC 9- 9.6 Test No. 4A—This test is for evaluations of the colorfastness grades (aver-
Step Chromatic Transference Scale ating the colorfastness to washing of tex- ages of variances for No. 10 and No. 10A
(AATCC EP8), or Instrumental Assess- tiles laundered in the presence of avail- multifiber test fabrics) were calculated as
ment of Degree of Staining (AATCC able chlorine. Specimens subjected to follows:
EP12), and record the numerical rating this test should show color change similar Single-Operator
that corresponds to the appropriate one to that produced by five home machine Component 0.29
on either of them. The scale used should be launderings at 63 ± 3°C (145 ± 5°F) with Within-Laboratory
indicated when reporting the test results. 3.74 g per L (0.50 oz/gal) of 5% available Component 0.29
8.2.2 The color transferred to the multi- chlorine per 3.6 kg (8.0 lb) load. Between-Laboratory
fiber test fabric or bleached cotton test 9.7 Test No. 5A—This test is for eval- Component 0.29
fabric square of 6.4.1 can be quantita- uating the colorfastness to washing of
tively determined by measuring the color textiles that may be laundered in the pres- 11.2.3 Critical Differences. For the
difference between a piece of the original ence of available chlorine. Specimens components of variance reported in
material and the stained material. Multifi- subjected to this test should show color 11.2.2, two averages of observed values
ber test fabrics (15 mm [0.6 in.]) have fill- change similar to that produced by five should be considered significantly differ-
ing bands of sufficient width to be within home machine launderings at 49 ± 3°C ent at the 95% probability level if the dif-

118 AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ference is equal to or exceeds the critical Ometer by one operator. Color change in ference equals or exceeds the critical dif-
differences shown in Table II. Test No. 5A was determined both visu- ferences shown in Table V.
ally and instrumentally. Details of the sta-
tistical analysis of the data can be found
Table II—Critical Differences, Grades, in the report, Third Interlaboratory Study Table V—Critical Differences, Percent of
for the Condition Noteda of Proposed Launder-Ometer Test for Grand Average for the Conditions Noted a,b
Colorfastness of Fabrics to Chlorine and
Single- Within- Between- Non-Chlorine Bleaches, October 21, No. of Single- Between-
No. of Operator Lab Lab Observations in Operator Laboratory
Observations Precision Precision Precision
1985, by J. W. Whitworth, Milliken Re-
search Corp., Spartanburg, SC. Each Average Precision Precision
1 0.80 1.12 1.37 11.3.2 Visual Assessment. Four materi- 1 18.7 36.2
3 0.46 0.92 1.21 3 10.8 32.8
als were tested at each of five laborato-
5 0.36 0.87 1.18 5 8.4 32.1
ries. Three raters visually assessed the
a
The critical differences were calculated using t = color change of four specimens. The a
The critical differences were calculated using t =
1.950 which is based on infinite degrees of freedom. components of variance as standard devi- 1.950 which is based on infinite degrees of freedom.
ations of colorfastness grades were calcu- b
To convert the values of the critical differences to
lated as follows: units of measure, multiply the critical differences by
11.2.4 Staining. Three raters indepen- the average of the two specific sets of data being
dently rated the six fibers of the multifi- Single Operator compared and then divide by 100.
ber test fabric (No. 10 and No. 10A) for Component 0.38
10 materials at six laboratories using the Within-Laboratory
Gray Scale for Staining. Of the 60 possi- Component 0.28 11.3.6 Bias. Tests comparing five
ble fiber/fabric combinations, only 51 Between-Laboratory home launderings at 49°C (120°F) with
could be used. The components of vari- Component 0.27 one Launder-Ometer Test No. 5A indi-
ance were averaged for the No. 10 and cate there is no bias between the two
11.3.3 Critical Differences. For the methods for the colorfastness levels eval-
No. 10A multifiber test fabrics and ap-
components of variance in 11.3.2, two uated (see 12.13).
pear below as standard deviations of
averages of observed values should be
staining ratings:
considered significantly different at the
95% probability level if the difference 12. Notes
Single Operator
Component 0.27 equals or exceeds the critical differences 12.1 For potential equipment information
Within-Laboratory shown in Table IV. pertaining to this test method, please visit
Component 0.34 the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
Between-Laboratory aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
Component 0.25 Table IV—Critical Differences, Grades, of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

for the Condition Noteda

11.2.5 Critical Differences. For the qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
components of variance reported in Single- Within- Between- tify that any of the listed equipment or
11.2.4, two averages of observed values No. of Operator Lab Lab materials meets the requirements in its test
Observations Precision Precision Precision methods.
should be considered significantly differ- 12.2 Teflon is a registered trademark of the
ent at the 95% probability level if the dif- 1 1.03 1.29 1.49
DuPont Co., Wilmington DE 19898.
ference equals or exceeds the critical dif- 3 0.59 0.98 1.23
5 0.46 0.91 1.17 12.3 The preheater/storage unit may be a
ferences shown in Table III. side unit to the laundering machine or a sepa-
a
The critical differences were calculated using t = rate module with its individual electric heater
1.950 which is based on infinite degrees of freedom. and thermostat to control water bath tempera-
Table III—Critical Differences, Grades, tures for heating containers and solutions prior
for the Condition Noteda to loading the laundering machine.
Single- Within- Between- 11.3.4 Instrumental Assessment. Color 12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
No. of Operator Lab Lab change as total color difference 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
Observations Precision Precision Precision (CIELAB) was measured on a spectro- [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
1 0.75 1.20 1.39 photometer or colorimeter using aper- 12.5 Bleached cotton test fabric in 32 × 32
3 0.43 1.03 1.25 tures ranging in size from 13-51 mm ends × picks/cm (80 × 80 ends × picks/in.)
5 0.33 1.00 1.22 (0.5-2.0 in.) in diameter, illuminant D65 / construction, 100 ± 3 g/m2 and without optical
a
10° observer or illuminant C/2° observer. brightener should be used.
The critical differences were calculated using t = Six materials were tested at each of six 12.6 The AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
1.950 which is based on infinite degrees of freedom.
laboratories. One operator in each labora- Detergent Without Brightener (WOB), a com-
tory tested four specimens of each fabric. pact formulation, is the primary detergent to
The components of variance for ΔE* ex- be used in this test method. Where the effect
11.2.6 Bias. Tests comparing five of an optical brightener is to be evaluated,
home launderings at 40°C (105°F) with pressed as coefficients of variation were
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent
one Launder-Ometer Test No. 2A indi- calculated to be: With Brightener should be used. The AATCC
cate there is no bias between the two Single-Operator 2003 Standard Reference Liquid Detergents
methods for the colorfastness and stain- Component 6.8% have been discontinued and are no longer
ing levels evaluated. available for purchase. Users who have a sup-
Between-Laboratory ply of AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Liq-
11.3 Test No. 5A, Chlorine Bleach. Component 11.2%
11.3.1 Summary. An interlaboratory uid Detergents may continue to use until
depleted. All detergents are available from
test was carried out in 1984 to establish 11.3.5 Critical Differences. For the AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
the precision of Test No. 5A for deter- components of variance reported in Park NC 27709; tel: +1. 919.549.8141; fax:
mining the effect of chlorine bleach on 11.3.4, two averages of observed values +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
the colorfastness of fabrics. All speci- should be considered significantly differ- web site: www.aatcc.org.
mens were laundered in a Launder- ent at the 95% probability level if the dif- 12.7 Use distilled water or deionized water

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020) 119
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
of not more than 15 ppm hardness to dissolve which use no bleach. Test No. 2A is the 12.15.2 It is expected that the use of instru-
the detergent and for the test solutions. no-bleach alternate for Test No. 5A, and Test mental evaluation procedures (AATCC EP7
12.8 Use sodium hypochlorite bleach pur- No. 3A is the no-bleach alternate for Test and AATCC EP12) will result in greater preci-
chased within the last six months for a stock No. 4A. sion than that obtained from visual evaluations.
solution. 12.11 If multifiber test fabric is used in con- 12.16 CAUTION: It has been reported that
12.8.1 To confirm the stock solution’s hy- junction with Tests 4A or 5A, the wool can ab- the results for staining obtained by this
pochlorite activity, weigh 2.00 g liquid sodium sorb the chlorine leaving very little for method on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy,
hypochlorite into an Erlenmeyer flask and di- bleaching action. The wool may be removed black, etc.) that contain a combination of poly-
lute with 50 mL of deionized water. Add 10 from the multifiber test fabric before testing to ester and spandex, or their blends, may not
mL of 10% sulfuric acid and 10 mL of 10% eliminate this effect. show the full staining propensity of such fab-
potassium iodide. Titrate with 0.1N sodium 12.12 For very critical evaluations and in rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom-
thiosulfate until colorless. cases of arbitration, grades must be based on mended that the staining results obtained by

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Calculation: the geometric Gray Scale for Staining. this test not be used for the acceptance testing
12.13 For additional information pertaining of such fabrics.
% sodium hypochlorite
to the bias between Test No. 5A and five home
( mL Na 2 S 2 O 3 ) ( 0.1N ) ( 0.03722 ) washes, refer to Fig. 1 in Interlaboratory Study
- × 100
= ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- of Proposed Launder-Ometer Test for Colorfast-
( 2.00 g NaOCl ) 13. History
ness of Fabrics to Chlorine and Non-Chlorine
The factor 0.03722 is derived by multiplying Bleaches, Report to AATCC Committee RA60, 13.1 Editorially revised in 2022 to update
the molecular weight of NaOCl (74.45 g/mol) Colorfastness to Washing Test Methods, the correct name of the AATCC 1993 Stan-
by 0.001 (mL to L conversion) and dividing November 1984, New York NY by L. B. Farmer dard Reference Detergents and to note that
by 2 (mols of thiosulfate per hypochlorite). and J. W. Whitworth of Milliken Research 2003 AATCC Reference Liquid Detergent has
12.8.2 Oxidizing power of sodium hy- Corp., Spartanburg SC, and J. G. Tew, AATCC been discontinued.
pochlorite is typically expressed in terms of Technical Center, Research Triangle Park NC. 13.2 Reaffirmed 2020.
available chlorine, the equivalent amount of di- 12.14 AATCC EP7 gives a method for 13.3 Revised 2013, 2010, 2009, 2007, 2006
atomic chlorine present. A 5.25% NaOCl solu- computing Gray Scale grades from color mea- (title change), 2003, 1996, 1994, 1993, 1989,
tion contains 50,000 ppm available chlorine. surement data. 1986 (title change), 1972, 1970, 1961, 1960,
12.9 Crockmeter test cloth, 32 × 33 ends × 12.15 The precision of this test method is 1957, 1954, 1952. Reaffirmed 2019, 2016,
picks/cm (80 × 84 ends × picks/cm) combed dependent on the combined variability of the 2012, 2008, 2004, 2002, 1998, 1995, 1991,
cotton, desized, bleached (no optical brightener material being tested, the test method itself, 1984, 1983, 1981, 1976, 1975, 1974, 1973.
or finishing material present) should be used. and the evaluation procedure utilized. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001.
12.10 If staining evaluations are needed for 12.15.1 The precision statement in Section 11 13.4 Developed in 1950 by AATCC Com-
Tests No. 4A and 5A, they may be carried out was developed from results obtained by visual mittee RA60. Partly equivalent to ISO 105-
using the corresponding Tests No. 2A or 3A, evaluation (AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP2). C06.

120 AATCC TM61-2013e2(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM66-2017e2

Test Method for Wrinkle Recovery

of Woven Fabrics: Recovery Angle
1. Purpose and Scope and recovery time. This method specifies tom leaf.
arbitrary selected values for the latter 6.2.3 Plastic press, consisting of two
1.1 This test method is used to deter- three factors, based on a compromise be- superimposed leaves 95 × 20 mm fas-
mine the wrinkle recovery of woven fab- tween conditions likely to be encountered tened together at one end. A 23 × 20 mm
rics. It is applicable to fabrics made from in service, and the expeditious conduct of plastic section is attached to the outer sur-
any fiber, or combination of fibers. the test. Two conditions of temperature face of the free end of one leaf, flush with
and relative humidity are specified as be- the outer edges that form a platform for a
2. Principle
ing representative of normal experience. weight.
2.1 A test specimen is folded and com- For specialized purposes, it may be ad- 6.3 Tweezers with a jaw width of 25
pressed under controlled conditions of visable to use other combinations of tem- mm and a line marked on both external
time and force to create a folded wrinkle. perature and humidity. faces 5 mm from the end and parallel to
The test specimen is then suspended in a 5.4 Specimens from limp or heavy the jaw width (see Fig. 5). Another pair
test instrument for a controlled recovery weight fabrics may twist or curl making of tweezers, preferably plastic, is needed
period, after which the recovery angle is angle readings difficult to determine (see to handle specimens.
recorded. 13.3). 6.4 Clock or timer accurate to ± 1 s.
6.5 Template, 40 × 15 mm.
3. Terminology 6. Apparatus (see 13.4) 6.6 Weight, 500 ± 5 g.
6.7 Conditioning chamber suitable for
3.1 wrinkle recovery, n.—that prop- 6.1 Wrinkle Recovery Tester and ac-
the manipulation of the test specimen and
erty of a fabric which enables it to re- cessories, Option 1 (see Fig. 1).
the test apparatus that can produce atmo-
cover from folding deformations. 6.1.1 Loading device with two flat
spheres other than the standard atmo-
plates (see Fig. 2).
sphere for testing textiles.
4. Safety Precautions 6.1.2 Wrinkle Recovery Circular Scale
divided into degrees over the range 10–
NOTE: These safety precautions are 180° (see Fig. 3). 7. Test Specimens
for information purposes only. The pre- 6.1.3 Paper or aluminum foil not ex-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 7.1 Identify the face and back of the
ceeding 0.04 mm thick. fabric sample. Avoid taking specimens
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.2 Wrinkle Recovery Tester and ac-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use from creased, wrinkled, or distorted sec-
cessories, Option 2 (see Fig. 4). tions of the sample.
safe and proper techniques in handling 6.2.1 Disk and protractor with clamp
materials in this test method. Manufac- 7.2 Cut 12 specimens 40 × 15 mm, six
mounted to the disk (see Fig. 4). with their long dimension parallel to the
turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.2.2 Specimen holder with two super-
details such as material safety data sheets warp direction of the fabric and six with
imposed stainless steel leaves, 0.16 ± their long dimension parallel to the filling
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 0.01 mm thick, fastened together at one
tions. All OSHA standards and rules direction.
end. The top leaf is shorter than the bot- 7.2.1 Cut warp specimens from sample
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should locations with different warp yarns. Cut
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all filling specimens from sample locations
laboratory areas. with different filling yarns (see Fig. 6).
Unless otherwise specified, take speci-
5. Uses and Limitations mens no nearer the selvage or edge of the
fabric than one tenth the width of the
5.1 Two options for performing wrin- fabric.
kle recovery angle testing are included in 7.3 Mark the fabric face of each speci-
this test method. The Option 1 procedure men.
is applicable to equipment commercially 7.4 Avoid handling or distorting the
available and similar to devices used in specimens. The use of a template or die
ISO 2313: Determination of the Recov- for cutting the specimens and tweezers
ery from Creasing of a Horizontally for handling them is recommended.
Folded Specimen by Measuring the An-
gle of Recovery (see 13.1). The Option 2 8. Conditioning
procedure is for those laboratories that
still have the older recovery devices 8.1 Lay specimens flat to condition at
which are no longer available from their 65 ± 5% RH, 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) for at
original source. least 24 h prior to testing. Shorter condi-
5.2 This method has been used as a re- tioning periods which still allow attain-
search tool and for production quality ment of equilibrium moisture content are
control; however, it is not recommended acceptable.
to be used for acceptance testing (see 13.2). 8.2 If other atmospheres are used, they
5.3 Parameters to be controlled in the should be reported with the test results
test are: relative humidity, temperature, Fig. 1—Option 1—Wrinkle Recovery (see 11.3). For example, high humidity
applied pressure, time under pressure, Angle Tester and accessories. determinations may be made after condi-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM66-2017e2 121
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 5—Option 1—Folding of specimen.

Fig. 2—Option 1—Loading device.

Fig. 6— Specimen sampling layout.

Fig. 3—Option 1—Wrinkle Recovery tioning samples at 35 ± 1°C (95 ± 2°F), Start a timing device. Wait 60 ± 2 s to re-
Angle Tester. 90 ± 2% RH for 24 h prior to testing. peat steps 9.1.2 and 9.1.3 for the next
specimen. Wait another 60 ± 2 s to start
9. Procedure the third specimen’s load timing.
9.1.4 After 5 min ± 5 s, quickly but
9.1 Option 1. smoothly, remove the weight from the
9.1.1 Three sets of loading devices, first specimen so that the specimen press
crease recovery scales and weights can be does not spring open.
used to test three specimens sequentially, 9.1.5 Using tweezers, transfer the
one after another every 60 s. folded specimen to the instrument’s cir-
9.1.2 Fold a face-to-face specimen cular scale specimen holder. If paper or
end-to-end and hold it in this position foil was used, remove it at this time. In-
with tweezers, gripping no more than 5 sert one end of the specimen between the
mm from the ends. In instances where the clamp on the specimen holder, leaving
surfaces of the specimens show a ten- the other end to hang freely. Avoid dis-
dency to stick together, place a piece of turbing the folded formation by placing
paper or aluminum foil, 18 × 14 mm, be- the specimen no farther into the clamp
tween the ends of the specimen (see Fig. than the back stop. Start timing the recov-
5). Avoid touching the specimen with ery period. Wait 60 ± 2 s, sequentially, to
anything other than the tweezers. load the second and third specimens in
9.1.3 Place the folded specimen be- holders.
Fig. 4—Option 2—Wrinkle Recovery tween the two leaves of the loading de- 9.1.6 While the specimen is in the
Tester and accessories. vice and immediately apply the weight. holder, adjust the instrument to keep the

AATCC TM66-2017e2
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,

122 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
free hanging end of the specimen in recorder. Perform all operations as rap- pated in the study. Two of the participat-
alignment with the vertical mark. Fre- idly as possible. Repeat steps 9.2.4 and ing laboratories performed Option 1 (Lab
quent adjustment during the 5 min time 9.2.4.1 for the second specimen, starting A: 3 technicians; Lab B: 3 technicians),
period is necessary to avoid gravitational 60 ± 2 s after the weight is removed from two other laboratories performed Option
effects. the first specimen. Repeat all steps for the 2 (Lab D: 1 technician; Lab E: 3 techni-
9.1.7 Read and record the recovery an- third specimen, 60 ± 2 s after the weight cians), and the fifth laboratory (Lab C: 2
gle from the circular scale 5 min ± 5 s af- was removed from the second specimen. technicians) performed both Options 1
ter inserting a specimen into a clamp. If 9.2.4.2 To eliminate gravitational ef- and 2. For the study, three different fab-
the free end of the specimen twists, sight fects, keep the free hanging leg of the rics (100% Cotton Twill, Color Khaki; S/
a vertical plane through its center and specimen aligned with the recorder’s ver- 419 Cotton Broadcloth, Bleached/Merc;
align it with the vertical mark on the cir- tical guide line during the 5 min ± 5 s re- and S/7465 50/50 Poly/Cotton Print
cular scale. Read and record the recovery covery period. Adjust every 15 ± 1 s for Cloth) were each treated with five fin-
angle for each specimen after 5 min ± 5 s the first minute, and once a minute there- ishes (Finish 1. No chemical; Finish 2.
after inserting it into a clamp. after during the remaining recovery pe- Softener only; Finish 3. 6% resin + soft-
9.1.8 Repeat all steps for three speci- riod. Make the final adjustment 15 ± 1 s ener; Finish 4. 12% resin + softener; and
mens in the opposite direction and for before the 5 min ± 5 s recovery period Finish 5. 18% resin + softener). Each test
specimens to be folded face-to-back in ends. A procedure to run continuous was performed using five face-to-face
both fabric directions. specimen testing is given in 13.5. and five back-to-back determinations in
9.2 Option 2. 9.2.5 Read and record the recovery an- warp and filling directions.
9.2.1 Using tweezers, place a specimen gle from the scale 5 min ± 5 s after insert- 12.1.2 Results of t-test performed to
between the leaves of the metal holder ing a specimen into the clip mount on the determine the statistical significance of
with one end aligned under the 18 mm recorder. If the free end of a specimen the mean values produced by Option 1
mark. With the tweezers, lift the free end twists, sight a vertical plane through its and Option 2 are shown in Table I. It can
of the specimen up and over to the 18 center and align it with the vertical mark be seen that the mean and standard devia-
mm mark taking care to loop back rather on the recorder scale. Read and record tion values of Option 1 differ from the
than flatten the specimen. Hold the edge the recovery angle for each specimen af- mean and standard deviation values of
of the specimen firmly in place with a ter it has been inserted in the clip mount Option 2. A p-value of 0.000 for the two-
thumbnail. for 5 min ± 5 s. sample t-test suggests that there is 0%
9.2.2 Still holding the specimen end 9.2.6 Repeat all steps for three speci- probability for Option 1 results to be sta-
with a thumbnail, open the jaws of a plas- mens in the opposite direction and for tistically similar to Option 2 results. The
tic press with the other hand. Insert the specimens folded face-to-back in both results, therefore are significantly differ-
holder with the specimen between the fabric directions. ent at 95% confidence level. Therefore,
long and short jaws, releasing the thumb- laboratories using Option 1 should not
nail when bringing the end edge of the compare their results with that of labora-
long jaw into contact with the specimen.
10. Calculation tories using Option 2.
The 18 mm mark on the metal holder, the 12.1.3 Within-laboratory and between-
10.1 Calculate the average recovery in laboratory data for Option 1.
unfolded end of the specimen, and the degrees for each group of three speci-
end edge of the plastic press are to be Within-laboratory and between-labo-
mens; warp folded face-to-face; warp
aligned before releasing the specimen. A ratory precision data for Option 1, with
folded back-to-back; filling folded face-
fold should be formed 1.5 mm from the specimens ranging from 1 to 6 is given in
to-face; and filling folded back-to-back.
end of the short metal leaf. The plastic Table II. The precision values capture the
10.2 If the difference between face-to- variability contributed by the participating
press should be in firm contact with the face and back-to-back averages is not
folded specimen but should not be laboratories and their respective operators.
greater than 15°, average all warp read- 12.1.4 Within-laboratory and between-
squeezed. ings and all filling readings separately. If
9.2.3 Invert the press-holder combina- laboratory data for Option 2.
the difference between face-to-face and
tion on a flat surface with the small plat- Within-laboratory and between-labo-
back-to-back averages is greater than
form up. Gently apply a weight to the ratory precision data for Option 2, with
15°, report the four averages separately. specimens ranging from 1 to 6 is given in
platform. Start a timing device. Repeat
steps 9.2.1 through 9.2.3 for a second Table III. The precision values capture the
specimen after 60 ± 2 s has lapsed. After 11. Report variability contributed by the participating
60 ± 2 additional s, repeat all steps for the laboratories and their respective operators.
third specimen. 11.1 State that the tests were per- 12.2 Bias.
formed as directed in AATCC TM66, 12.2.1 Wrinkle recovery angle can be
9.2.4 After 5 min ± 5 s, remove the
Option 1 or Option 2. defined only in terms of a test method.
weight. Pick up the press-holder combi-
nation by the plastic press and insert the 11.2 Report the average warp and fill- There is no independent referee method
exposed end of the specimen holder in ing (or when necessary warp-face, warp- for determining the true value of this
the clip mount on the face of the recorder back, filling-face and filling-back) recov- property. This method has no known
device. Open the jaws and remove the ery angles. bias.
press rapidly taking care to avoid rolling 11.3 If other testing atmospheres are
the exposed end of the specimen or pull- used, report the conditions under which
the test was performed with the average 13. Notes
ing it out of the holder.
values. 13.1 ISO 2313: Determination of the Re-
9.2.4.1 Align the holder with the front
edge of the clip mount shelf. The speci- covery from Creasing of a Horizontally
men fold should line up with the spot at Folded Specimen by Measuring the Angle Re-
12. Precision and Bias covery, may be obtained from ANSI, 11 West
the center of the recorder disk leaving the 42nd St., New York NY 10036; tel: +1.212.
free hanging leg of the specimen aligned 12.1 Precision. 302.1286; fax: +1.212.398.0023; web site:
with the vertical guide line on the scale. 12.1.1 In 2016, an inter-laboratory www.ansi.org; or ISO web site: www.iso.org.
Take special care to not touch, blow on or study was conducted comparing Option 1 13.2 AATCC TM66 interlaboratory test re-
jam the specimen against the face of the to Option 2. Five laboratories partici- sults using the original crease recovery angle

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM66-2017e2 123
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Two-sample t-test for Recovery Angle Versus Option into recorders, place weights on the next set of
holder press combinations. Start timing with
Option n Mean StDev SE Mean the weight load application. This procedure
requires a continuously running clock or
1 1440 119.1 23.3 0.61 timer.
2 1080 209.3 35.7 1.1
13.5.1.1 Differential times among speci-
Difference = mu (1) - mu (2) mens occur between the folding and the
Estimate for difference: 9.83 recovery period when specimens are in the
95% CI for difference: (7.39, 12.28) plastic presses without load. The differential
t-test of difference = 0 (vs. not =); t-value = 7.89; p-value = 0.000; DF = 1743 was found not to have appreciable effect
on test results, in that, the specimens held
in holders without load are not free to
may cause angle reading difficulty. If a speci- recover.
Table II—Precision Table for Option 1 men’s free leg twists, align the center of the 13.5.2 Each set of six specimens follows
bottom edge of the specimen with the vertical the preceding one by 7 min, the creasing
Within- Between- period being started (load application) at 0, 7,
guide line on the tester. If a specimen curls,
No. of Laboratory Laboratory 14, etc. min. Continuous operation by this
align the section of the free hanging leg clos-
Specimens Precision Precision technique will yield 51 readings per h.
est to the crease angle with the vertical guide
1 1.015 1.7565 line on the tester. 13.6 Referring to the inter-laboratory study
2 0.7188 1.2440 13.4 For potential equipment information performed in 2016, two additional laboratories
3 0.5860 1.0141 pertaining to this test method, please visit participated by performing instrumental wrin-
4 0.5075 0.8783 the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. kle recovery tests on the same fabrics and fin-
5 0.4539 0.7855 aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility ishes that were provided to the other
6 0.4144 0.7171 of listing equipment and materials sold by its laboratories (see 12.1.1). However, since Op-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not tions 1 and 2 were not statistically similar, no
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- data analysis was performed to compare the
Table III—Precision Table for Option 2 tify that any of the listed equipment or instrumental methods to Option 1 or Option 2.
materials meets the requirements in its test If a laboratory wishes to use an instrumental
Within- Between- methods. option, the accuracy must be established by
No. of Laboratory Laboratory 13.5 Practical Procedure for Option 2 the user.
Specimens Precision Precision Multiple Specimen Testing. This procedure
requires six testers, six weights, 12 plastic
1 1.8511 3.1347 presses, 18 specimen holders and one timer. 14. History
2 1.3110 2.2200 The test run consists of running six specimens
3 1.0687 1.8098 concurrently on cycles staggered at 7 min 14.1 Editorially revised in 2022 to add His-
4 0.9256 1.5674 intervals. tory section.
5 0.8278 1.4019 13.5.1 After six specimens have been 14.2 Editorial revised 2019; 2017 revised,
6 0.7557 1.2797 mounted in the press-holder combinations, the 2016 editorial revised, 2014 reaffirmed, 2008,
first cycle is started by placing weights on all 2006 editorially revised, 2003 reaffirmed,
six presses within 5 s. The weights are re- 1998 revised (with title change), 1996 reaf-
moved 5 min later in the same order, so that firmed and editorially revised, 1995 editori-
devices showed significant differences in be- the folding time is the same for all specimens. ally revised, 1991 editorially revised, 1990
tween-laboratory precision, but good within- The specimens are then placed in the clips on reaffirmed, 1986 editorial revised, 1984, 1978,
laboratory precision. The method, however, recorders as rapidly as possible. The speci- 1975, 1972, 1968 reaffirmed, 1959, 1956,
cannot be recommended for acceptance testing. mens are to be adjusted and read in the same 1953, 1952 revised.
13.3 Most specimens will have a straight, order so that the recovery time will be 5 min 14.3 1951 Developed by AATCC Commit-
free hanging leg. When the free hanging spec- for each specimen. One minute after starting tee RR6; 1995 Jurisdiction transferred to
imen leg is not straight, alignment problems to remove the weights and inserting holders AATCC Committee RA61.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

124 AATCC TM66-2017e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM70-2015e2(2020)

Test Method for Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption

1. Purpose and Scope is recommended. 7.2 Roll together the five pieces of
4.3 The manufacturer’s safety recom- each specimen (constituting a specimen
1.1 This test method is applicable to mendations should be followed when op- set) and weigh to the nearest 0.1 g.
any textile fabric, which may or may not erating laboratory testing equipment. 7.3 Pour 2 L of distilled water at 27 ±
have been given a water-resistant or wa- 1°C (80 ± 2°F) in the tumble jar of the
ter-repellent finish. It measures the resis- Dynamic Absorption Tester. Put both
tance of fabrics to wetting by water. It is 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.1)
specimen sets (see 11.5) into the jar, one
particularly suitable for measuring the 5.1 Dynamic Absorption Tester (see piece at a time, and rotate for 20 min.
water-repellent efficacy of finishes ap- Fig. 1 and 11.2). 7.4 Remove a piece of one specimen
plied to fabrics, because it subjects the 5.2 Wringer (motor-driven) (see 11.3). immediately passing it through the
treated fabrics to dynamic conditions 5.3 Laboratory balance, accurate to wringer at a rate of 2.5 cm/s with the
similar to those often encountered during 0.1 g. edge of the piece parallel to the rolls and
actual use. It is not intended for use in then sandwich the specimen between two
5.4 White AATCC Textile Blotting
predicting the probable rain penetration Paper, 25 × 25 cm (see 11.4). pieces of unused blotter paper and pass it
resistance of fabrics, since it measures through the wringer again. Leave the
absorption of water into, but not through, 5.5 Water, distilled.
5.6 Plastic container, or gallon “zip- piece sandwiched in the wet blotters. Re-
the fabric. peat this process for the remaining four
per” type plastic bag.
1.2 The results obtained with this test pieces of the same specimen set. Then re-
method depend primarily on the resis- move the blotters and roll the five pieces
tance to wetting or water repellency of 6. Test Specimens
together, put them in a tared plastic con-
the fibers and yarns in the fabric, and not 6.1 The fabric samples and the blotting tainer or gallon-sized zippered plastic
upon the construction of the fabric. paper should be conditioned at 65 ± 5% bag, close the container and weigh the
RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) for a mini- wet specimen set to the nearest 0.1 g. The
2. Principle mum of 4 h before testing. mass of the wet specimen should not be
6.2 Test two specimens from each sam- more than twice its dry mass.
2.1 Preweighed specimens are tumbled 7.5 Repeat 7.4 for the second specimen.
in water for a fixed period of time and are ple. Each specimen consists of five 20 ×
reweighed after the excess water has been 20 cm pieces cut on a 0.79 rad (45°) bias.
removed from them. The percentage in- Remove loose corner yarns and spread a 8. Calculations
crease in mass is taken as a measure of drop of liquid latex or rubber cement on
yarns at the corner to prevent raveling. 8.1 Calculate the water absorbed for
the absorption or resistance to internal each specimen to the nearest 0.1% using
wetting. Mark a corner of each piece of specimen
for identification as a part of the speci- the following equation:
men set. WA = (W – C)/C × 100
3. Terminology
3.1 absorbency, n.—the propensity of 7. Procedure where:
a material to take in and retain a liquid, WA = water absorbed, %
usually water, in the pores and interstices 7.1 Rinse the tumble jar of the Dy- W = wet specimen weight, g
of the material. namic Absorption Tester thoroughly to C = conditioned specimen weight, g
free it from all extraneous matter, particu-
3.2 water repellency, n.—in textiles, larly soaps, detergents and wetting 8.2 Calculate the dynamic absorption
the characteristic of a fiber, yarn or fabric agents. of the fabric sample by averaging to-
to resist wetting. gether the water absorbed by each of the
two specimens.
4. Safety Precautions
9. Report
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- 9.1 Report the average of the two spec-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- imens as the percent of water absorbed by
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- the fabric.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 9.2 Report the test method number.
safe and proper techniques in handling
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

materials in this test method. Manufac- 10. Precision and Bias

turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets 10.1 Precision. In 1998, a limited in-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- tralaboratory study was completed. All
tions. All OSHA standards and rules samples were tested by the same operator.
must also be consulted and followed. 10.1.2 Four sets of fabrics were ana-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should lyzed. There was no statistical difference
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all found between the sets of data, thus pre-
laboratory areas. cision parameters were calculated on the
4.2 Observe wringer safety especially pooled data.
at nip points. Normal safeguards should 10.1.3 Users of the method are advised
not be removed. A foot-operated kickoff Fig. 1—Dynamic absorption tester. of the limited nature of this study and ad-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM70-2015e2(2020) 125
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
vised to apply these findings with due with a constant tangential velocity. The jar be in equilibrium when the top roll of the
caution. may be of glass, corrosion-resistant metal, or wringer has been lifted just sufficiently from
10.1.4 Analysis of the combined data chemical stoneware. the bottom roll to permit vision between the
yielded a repeatability standard deviation 11.2.1 The revolutions per min of the tum- bottoms of the tapes and the top of the bottom
ble jar should be determined by counting the roll. At this point, the dead weight on the load-
of 1.8, and components of variance and ing system should be adjusted until the spring
number of revolutions in 1 min using a stop-
critical differences as displayed in Table watch calibrated in intervals of not more than scale or balance indicates a load of 27.2 ±
I. Differences between two averages of 1 s. 0.5 kg. The calibration of the spring scale or
(N) determinations, for the appropriate 11.3 The wringer, household laundry type, balance should be verified by the use of
precision parameter, should reach or ex- should be equipped with soft rubber squeeze known certified dead weights of 24.95, 27.22
ceed the table value to be statistically sig- rolls 5.1-6.4 cm in diameter and 28.0-30.5 cm and 29.48 kg ± 0.23 kg total weight. The
nificant at the 95% confidence level. in length, with a hardness of 70-80 when mea- spring scale should be accurate to within ±
sured using the A Scale of a Shore Durometer. 0.2268 kg at each of the three verification
The wringer should be so constructed that the loads.
Table I—Components of Variance pressure on the top of the piece of fabric is The linear speed of the rolls should be mea-
and Critical Differences maintained by a dead weight or lever system sured by feeding a thin steel tape through the
such that the total pressure (resulting from the rolls. The steel tape should be at least 150 cm
95% total of the dead weight or lever system and long and should be accurate to within 3 mm
Det in Avg Confidence Critical the weight of the roller) is 27.2 ± 0.5 kg. It per 150 cm. The time required for exactly 150
(N) Interval Differences should be power-driven at a constant rate so cm of this tape to pass through the nip of the
2 + 16.20 32.4 that the piece of fabric passes through the rolls rolls should be measured in s to the nearest s
3 + 4.5 9.0 at a rate of 2.5 cm/s. with a stopwatch calibrated in intervals of not
4 + 2.9 5.8 The diameters of the squeeze rolls should more than 0.5 s. The speed of the rolls should
5 + 2.2 4.4 be determined with a pair of calipers or di- be adjusted until the time required for 150 cm
rectly with a suitable micrometer. Measure- of tape to pass though the nip of the roll is 60
ments should be made at five different places ± 2 s.
10.2 Bias. Dynamic absorption of fab- 11.4 Blotters suitable for this test can be
along the length of each roll, and the average
rics can only be defined in terms of a test of these measurements taken as the diameter obtained from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
method. There is no independent, referee of the roll. Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
method for determining the true value. +1.919.549. 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
The load applied by the dead weight or le- [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
This test method has no known bias. ver system should be measured using a spring
scale or balance, and suspending the top roll 11.5 Should it be necessary to run only one
of the wringer from the scale by means of two specimen, a specimen of similar material with
11. Notes respect to weight should be run as ballast with
tapes of equal length. The tapes should be
11.1 For potential equipment information placed between the rolls near their ends and the specimen undergoing test. The cloth in the
pertaining to this test method, please visit should be provided with a means of holding jar during any run should be the equivalent of
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. them sufficiently far apart so that there is no two specimens (10 pieces).
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility contact between the tapes and the top struc-
of listing equipment and materials sold by its tural member of the wringer and loading sys- 12. History
Corporate members, but AATCC does not tem. The spring scale or balance should be
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- suspended from a suitable rigid support and 12.1 Reaffirmed 2020.
tify that any of the listed equipment or provided with a turnbuckle or other device for 12.2 Revised 2015, 2000, 1997, 1961. Re-
materials meets the requirements in its test adjusting the height of the scale. The usual affirmed 2014, 2010, 1989, 1988, 1983, 1978,
methods. precautions concerning the zero correction of 1975, 1972, 1967, 1964. Editorially revised
11.2 The Dynamic Absorption Tester (see spring scales should be observed. The turn- and reaffirmed 2005, 1994. Editorially revised
Fig. 1) should consist of a motor driven, 6 L buckle or other device should then be adjusted 2019, 2016, 2009, 2008, 1986, 1985.
cylindrical or hexagonal-shaped jar approxi- to place the weight of the top roll and its 12.3 Developed in 1952 by AATCC Com-
mately 15 cm in diameter and 30 cm in length, weighing system on the spring scale or bal- mittee RA63. Technically equivalent to ISO
mounted to rotate end over end at 55 ± 2 rpm ance, and the system should be considered to 18696.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

126 AATCC TM70-2015e2(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM76-2000e3(2018)e

Test Method for Electrical Surface Resistivity of Fabrics

Developed in 1954 by AATCC Commit- tive bar should be followed. 7. Procedure
tee RA32; revised 1963, 1968, 1970, 4.3 The radioactive bar emits alpha ra-
1972, 1973, 1982, 1995, 2000 (with ti- diation which is externally harmless to 7.1 Calibrate the electrical resistance
tle change); reaffirmed 1969, 1975, the human body. The radioactive isotope meter according to the manufacturer’s
1978, 1989, 2011, 2018; editorially re- polonium 210 is toxic and precaution recommendations. This calibration should
vised 1974, 1984, 1985, 1997, 2004, should be exercised to prevent ingestion be repeated periodically.
2008, 2019; editorially revised and re- or inhalation of the solid material. Do not 7.2 Condition the test specimens in a
affirmed 1987, 2005. take the radioactive bar apart or touch the suitable testing chamber or conditioning
radioactive strip under the grid. If the room at a predetermined relative humid-
strip is touched or handled, wash hands ity that will reflect the conditions at
1. Purpose and Scope thoroughly at once. Return the device to which information on the electrical resis-
the manufacturer when it loses its effec- tivity of the fabric is needed.
1.1 The purpose of this test method is 7.2.1 For most fabrics which require an-
to determine the electrical surface resis- tiveness as a static eliminator or for dis-
posal if use is to be discontinued. Do not tistatic treatments or whose static propen-
tivity of fabrics. The surface electrical re- sity is critical, measurements at 20% rela-
sistivity may influence the accumulation discard as scrap.
tive humidity will be most meaningful.
of electrostatic charge of a fabric (refer to 7.2.2 In less critical situations 40% rel-
AATCC TM84, Test Method for Electri- 5. Apparatus and Materials
ative humidity may be employed.
cal Resistance of Yarns). 5.1 Electrical resistance meter (see 11.1). 7.2.3 For special requirements other
5.2 Conditioning and test chamber (see relative humidities may be used. For ex-
2. Principle 11.2). ample, preconditioning at 50 ± 2% RH at
5.3 Standard resistors. 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 5°F) is required for anti-
2.1 Specimens at equilibrium with
5.4 Radioactive bar. static sheeting, film and textiles for use in
specified atmospheric conditions of rela-
5.5 Two rectangular flat metal surfaces hospital operating rooms (see 11.2.1).
tive humidity and temperature are mea-
of suitable size to serve as electrodes. Measurements may be made under other
sured for electrical resistance between
5.5.1 As an alternative, two concentric conditions or ranges of conditions that
parallel electrodes by means of an electri-
ring electrodes of spacing suitable to the are applicable to the end use (such as
cal resistance meter.
material being measured and the purpose 65% RH and 24°C [75°F]). It is prefera-
of the results. ble to keep the temperature or humidity
3. Terminology consistent for all measurements.
3.1 electrical resistivity, n.—material 6. Test Specimens 7.2.4 If it is necessary to measure elec-
property of a substance whose numerical trical resistivity under a broad range of
value is equal to the ratio of the voltage 6.1 Adjust the size of fabric test speci- conditions, additional tests may be run at
gradient to the current density. mens to suit the electrodes of the particu- 65% RH and at 24°C (75°F) or other set-
NOTE: For the purposes of this method, lar equipment being used. When using tings applicable to the end use. It is pref-
surface resistivity is calculated by using parallel plate electrodes, the width of the erable to keep the temperature or humidity
the measured electrical resistance be- specimen must not exceed the width of consistent for all measurements (see 11.3).
tween superficially positioned parallel the electrodes. When using the concentric 7.3 Optionally remove static charges
plates or concentric rings and their spac- rings, any size specimen at least as large on the surface of the fabric by passing
ing and is reported as ohms per square. as the outer ring may be used. Avoid con- a radioactive bar over both sides of the
This test method in effect measures the taminating the area on which the mea- fabric.
resistance of a material to the flow of cur- surement is to be made. 7.4 Place a test specimen in firm con-
rent between two electrodes. 6.2 Specimens for use with instruments tact with the electrodes. The contact with
providing parallel plate electrodes. Pre- the electrodes should be such that, when
4. Safety Precautions pare 2 sets of 3 test specimens each, 1 set additional pressure is applied between the
each so that the direction of testing is par- fabric and the electrodes, the test results
NOTE: These safety precautions are allel to the yarns in the length direction of are not affected.
for information purposes only. The pre- the fabric and 1 set with the direction of 7.4.1 In the case of equipment using
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- testing parallel to the width direction of parallel plate electrodes, place the test
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- the fabric. specimen in contact with the electrodes
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.2.1 Test specimens for use with in- with the direction of the test perpendicu-
safe and proper techniques in handling struments providing concentric ring elec- lar to the adjacent edges of the electrode.
materials in this test method. Manufac- trodes. Prepare 1 set (3 test specimens) Measure the electrical resistance of the
turers MUST be consulted for specific since, with this type instrument, the resis- fabric in both the length and width direc-
details such as material safety data sheets tance is measured in both fabric length tions. Since the charge will follow the
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- and fabric width directions simulta- path of least resistance, record only the
tions. All OSHA standards and rules neously. lower reading by direction.
must also be consulted and followed. 6.2.2 Depending on the fabric con- 7.4.2 For concentric ring electrodes,
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

4.1 Good laboratory practices should struction or end-use, it may be advisable the charge follows the path of least resis-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all to differentiate between face and back tance automatically.
laboratory areas. measurements. Each test specimen 7.5 Measure the electrical resistance of
4.2 The safety recommendations pro- should be taken from a different part of the test specimen according to the operat-
vided by the manufacturer of the radioac- the fabric. ing instruction and procedures for the

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM76-2000e3(2018)e 127
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
particular resistance meter being used. 8.3 Determine the logarithm (base 10) 11.1.1 A description of an instrument that
Allow the current to pass through the test of the resistivity (Log R) for each sample will not allow measurements > 1013 ohms
specimen for 1 min or until a constant and for the lot. is described by Hayek & Chromey in Ameri-
reading is obtained. The criterion for con- can Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 40, 1951, pp164-
168.
stant electrical resistivity is a change in
9. Report 11.1.2 Other resistance testers also may be
the value of Log R of less than 0.1 units satisfactory for this test.
per minute. The time to reach a constant 9.1 Report the following information: 11.2 A conditioning and testing chamber is
reading may vary with the applied volt- 9.1.1 The Log R for each sample and required capable of providing relative humid-
age and with the resistance of the test for the lot. ity control of ± 2% (preferably effective over a
sample. High voltages for prolonged pe- 9.1.2 the number of specimens tested. range of 20-65% RH) and temperature control
riods of time may damage the fabric. 9.1.3 The relative humidity and tem- of ± 1°C (± 2°F) with circulating air. Since
7.6 For referee purposes, 80-100 volts perature used. equilibration of a test specimen from the dry
at 25 mm electrode separation for 1 min 9.1.4 The direction of testing if parallel versus the wet condition relative to the humid-
should be used for the parallel plate con- ity of the test chamber may show hysteresis,
plate electrodes were used. it is recommended that specimens approach
figuration, and a similar voltage gradient
for the concentric ring case (see 11.4). equilibrium from the dry side relative to the
10. Precision and Bias humidity in the test chamber whenever pos-
7.7 Avoid the use of any electrically sible.
conductive liquids on either the fabric 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test 11.2.1 National Fire Protection Association,
test specimens or the apparatus. method has not been established. Until a Standard NFPA Code #56 A-1973 Section
precision statement is generated for this 4663.
8. Evaluation test method, use standard statistical tech- 11.3 Accumulation of static electricity gen-
niques in making any comparisons of test erally is greater the lower the relative humid-
8.1 Compute the resistivity to the near- ity (and vice versa). Fabrics which show a low
est ohms per square as follows: results for either within-laboratory or
degree of static accumulation of 40% RH may
8.1.1 For the parallel electrode case: between-laboratory averages. Experience exhibit severe static accumulation of 20-25%
has shown that, with care, reproducibility RH, while fabrics which exhibit static prob-
R = O × W/D should be ± ≤ 2% average Log R. lems at 40% RH may exhibit a low degree of
where: 10.2 Bias. Electrical resistivity can be static accumulation of 65% RH. The relation-
R = resistivity in ohms per square defined only in terms of a test method. ship between the tendency for static accumu-
O = measured resistance in ohms There is no independent method for de- lation and relative humidity varies with the
termining the true value. As a means of specific antistatic agent, fiber, fabric construc-
W = width of specimen tion, surface character, etc. Therefore, 40%
D = distance between electrodes estimating this property, the method has
no known bias. RH may not provide significant information as
to the probable antistatic performance proper-
8.1.2 For the concentric ring case: ties of a fabric unless the tests are also run at
R = 2.73(O)/log ro/ri 11. Notes 20-25% RH, an atmospheric condition not un-
usual in modern heated and air-conditioned
where: 11.1 The resistance meter in conjunction buildings. Complete information may also re-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
R = resistivity in ohms per square with the electrode system should be capable of quire information of resistivity at the upper
O = measured resistance in ohms measuring values in the range of 108-1015 for level of 65% RH.
ro = outer electrodes radius any critical uses. Equipment that is capable of 11.4 For more detailed information regard-
ri = inner electrodes radius measuring values in the range of 108 -1013 ing the measurement of resistances, see
ohms is suitable for work where the product ASTM D257, Tests for D-C Resistance or
8.2 Calculate the average resistivity for performance is known to be acceptable if re- Conductance of Insulating Materials (ASTM
each sample and for the lot. sistance is < 1013 ohms. Committee D20).

128 AATCC TM76-2000e3(2018)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM79-2010e2(2018)e2

Test Method for Absorbency of Textiles

Developed in 1954 by AATCC Commit- quired for a drop of water to lose any the 2008 AATCC/ASTM International’s
tee RA34; jurisdiction transferred in light reflection and change to a dull, wet Moisture Management Technical Supple-
2003 to AATCC Committee RA63; juris- spot is recorded. ment: Applicable to Apparel, Linens and
diction transferred in 2022 to AATCC Soft Goods, p19) (see 12.1).
Committee RA114; reaffirmed 1968, 3. Terminology 5.3 Users of the AATCC TM79 should
1972, 1975, 1979, 1992, 2000, 2014, be cautioned about the interpretation of
2018; editorially revised and reaffirmed 3.1 absorbency, n.—the propensity of results that may be impacted by whether
(with title change) 1986; revised 1995, a material to take in and retain a liquid, the face or the back of a textile fabric is
2007 (with title change), 2010; editori- usually water, in the pores and interstices tested. If the objective is to measure the
ally revised 2012, 2016, 2019, 2022. of the material. absorbency of finishing, processing or
NOTE: Absorbency is sometimes re- durability to laundering, the face side of a
ferred to as wettability. sample would be exposed to water during
Foreword 3.2 wetting, n.—the time required for the test. However, if the objective of per-
a drop of water to lose its light reflection forming the test is to evaluate the absor-
The original test method for the mea- characteristic, i.e., when it changes to a bency of a textile for further processing,
surement of absorbency of bleached tex- dull, wet spot due to the absorbent pro- then the side of the textile that would be
tiles was developed to help textile dyeing pensity of a textile material. worn next to the skin would be exposed
and finishing mills determine the effect 3.3 textile product, n.—an article of to the water drops during testing. Further,
and efficiency of textile preparation and fabric, or other flexible material, made to if textiles are used in a product as a com-
processing applications. Later, the test protect or decorate the body (garments), posite, the absorbency of the individual
method was used as one of several mea- for use in the home (bedding, drapery, fabrics will be different than that of the
surements for judging water resistance towels, table linens), or other uses (i.e., end product.
and repellency (i.e., non-absorbency) of handkerchiefs, etc.). 5.4 If liquids other than distilled water
textile finish applications. After some are used to perform this test method, test
time, the test method was also used to 4. Safety Precautions results might not be comparable.
judge the durability of textile applications 5.5 It is not known how test results
to home laundering. NOTE: These safety precautions are from this test method would compare to
Option B has been added to AATCC for information purposes only. The pre- other absorbency test methods.
TM79 to recognize variations from the cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5.6 No statement can be made about
original procedure that have come into dures and are not intended to be all inclu- the comparison or correlation of the re-
use by retailers and independent laborato- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use sults between Options A and B in this
ries. Option B was first published as an safe and proper techniques in handling method.
unofficial method in the 2004 AATCC/ materials in this test method. Manufac-
ASTM International’s Concept 2 Con- turers MUST be consulted for specific 6. Apparatus (see 12.2)
sumer Technical Supplement: A Compila- details such as material safety data sheets
tion of Procedures and Guidelines for and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.1 Beaker, with opening of a size that
Textile Products, TS-018, and as MM- tions. All OSHA standards and rules allows for the support of the outer edge of
TS-01 Quick Water Absorbency proce- must also be consulted and followed. the specified embroidery hoop.
dure in the 2008 AATCC/ASTM Interna- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.2 Option A: Burette, 10 ± 0.05 mL
tional’s Moisture Management Technical be followed. Wear safety glasses in all with 0.5 mL graduations that allows a de-
Supplement: Applicable to Apparel, Lin- laboratory areas. livery rate of 15-25 drops per milliliter.
ens and Soft Goods (see 12.1). 6.3 Option A: Burette stand.
Because the rate of water flow (drops 5. Uses and Limitations 6.4 Distilled or deionized water, 21 ±
per milliliter) and height above the speci- 2°C (70 ± 4°F).
men (mm) can be accurately and pre- 5.1 Absorbency is one of several fac- 6.5 Embroidery hoop, 152 ± 5 mm (6.0
cisely determined for Option A, this op- tors that influence textile processing such ± 0.2 in.) in diameter (see 12.1).
tion is more rigorously controlled. as fabric preparation, dyeing, and the ap- 6.6 Stopwatch or timer.
Therefore, in case of dispute, Option A is plication of finishes. Often interchanged 6.7 Option B: Medicine dropper, 76
to be considered the reference procedure. with the term wettability, the absorbency mm glass, 2mL capacity, capable of dis-
characteristics of a fabric can influence pensing 20 drops per milliliter.
1. Purpose and Scope the uniformity and completeness of
bleaching and dyeing by the ability to 7. Test Specimens
1.1 The test method is for the determi- take in water into the fiber, yarn, or fabric
nation of the water absorbency of yarns, construction. The suitability of a fabric 7.1 Take two 200 ± 5 × 200 ± 5 mm
fabrics and garments. It can be used on for a particular use, for example gauze or specimens from each sample on which a
textiles of any fiber content or construc- toweling, may also be dependent upon a total of five water drop sites can be
tion, including woven, knit and nonwoven. fabric’s ability and propensity to take in tested. If sufficient fabric is available,
water. five specimens from different locations
2. Principle 5.2 Water absorbency may help judge of a sample (i.e., different length × width
or interpret “comfort.” However, users of locations; side-middle-side locations on a
2.1 A drop of water is allowed to fall AATCC TM79 should be cautioned that sample cut; or front-back-sleeve garment
from a fixed height onto the taut surface its test results should not be the only cri- panels) can be prepared for each water
of a test specimen. The wetting time re- terion for the assessment of comfort (see drop test site. Otherwise, five water drop

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM79-2010e2(2018)e2 129
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tests may be performed on one specimen the drop of water loses its reflectivity (see absorbency of textiles using Options A
if the test sites are at least 25 ± 2.5 mm (1 3.2). If the water drop does not immedi- and B were conducted in 2009, with one
± 0.12 in.) away from the hoop edge and ately disappear, observe the water drop laboratory, three operators, and six sam-
no closer together than 25 ± 2.5 mm (1 ± from other positions until it finally van- ples. The samples were (a) bleached cot-
0.12 in.) from the previous water drop ishes. The end point will be the time, less ton nonwoven, (b) 100% cotton jersey
test site’s outside edge. For performing than 60 s, it takes for the water drop to no knit, (c) 100% cotton interlock knit, (d)
the 5-drop testing on garments or full cuts longer reflect light and appear only as a 100% cotton twill weave, (e) cotton/poly-
of a sample, it may not be necessary to dull wet spot. ester blend woven, and (f) 100% polyes-
cut specimens from the actual sample but 8.2.6 Record the elapsed time to the ter woven.
insert different areas in the embroidery nearest second. If the water drop disap- 11.1.2 The analysis of variance tech-
hoop. pears immediately, record as “zero.” If nique was applied to the data set. The
7.2 If performing tests on yarns, skeins the wetting time exceeds 60 s, record the analysis of variance indicated that there
should be prepared in such a way that time as “60 + s.” was no significant variation due to the
there are no gaps between individual yarn 8.2.7 Repeat steps 8.2.4-8.2.6 for the fabric, operator or day. Therefore, all data
wraps when inserted into the embroidery additional four test locations. were combined to calculate the precision
hoop. 8.3 Option B – Medicine Dropper. of the test method. All data and the analy-
7.3 Specimens should be brought to 8.3.1 Follow steps 8.2.3-8.2.6 except sis are being retained for reference at the
moisture equilibrium in a standard atmo- using the specified medicine dropper that AATCC Technical Center.
sphere according to ASTM D1776, Stan- is held at an approximate 10 mm height 11.1.3 The data for Option A is shown
dard Practice for Conditioning and Test- from the test specimen surface is used. A below in Table I. The average for all 180
ing Textiles) (see 12.3) having a relative 10 ± 1.0 mm height sighting device can points was 11 s, the standard deviation
humidity of 65 ± 5% at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± be made to help assure consistent height was 16 s, and 95% confidence interval
4°F). If the absorbency of a fabric from a placement of the medicine dropper. Do was ± 2 s.
wet processing stage is required, such as not move the specimen in the embroidery 11.1.4 The data for Option B is shown
after bleaching, specimens for testing hoop until the water drop no longer re- below in Table II. The average for all 180
should be air dried before conditioning flects light and the site appears only as a points was 9 s, the standard deviation was
prior to testing (see 12.4). dull wet spot. Record the time it takes for 14 s, and 95% confidence interval was ±
a water drop to disappear as stated in 2 s.
8. Procedure 8.2.6. Repeat the steps for all specimens. 11.1.5 Between-laboratory precision
has not been established for this test
8.1 Perform all tests in the standard at- method. Until such precision informa-
mosphere for testing. 9. Calculation and Interpretation tion is available, users of the method
8.2 Option A – Burette. 9.1 For Options A and B. should use standard statistical techniques
8.2.1 Select a location in the condi- 9.1.1 Calculate the average and the in making any comparison of test results
tioned laboratory area that has overhead standard deviation of the five recorded for between-laboratory averages.
lighting to facilitate the judgment of the times and report to the nearest second. In 11.2 Bias. The true value of absor-
test end point; i.e., wetting (see 3.2). the case where the five tests include im- bency of textile fabrics can be defined
8.2.2 Determine the burette’s stopcock mediate absorption times (“zeroes”), the only in terms of a test method. There is
position that will deliver the specified average should be calculated using all no independent method for determining
number of water drops (see 6.2). times including zero(s). In the case where the true value. In estimating this property,
8.2.3 Mount a specimen in an embroi- some of the five tests include absorption the test method has no known bias.
dery hoop so that the side of the specimen times greater than 60 s (60 +), use all of
to be tested is up and the surface speci- the wetting times to calculate the average
men is taut and free of wrinkles but with- 12. Notes
and report with a plus sign (+) and note
out stretching or distorting the structure the number of tests that exceeded 60 s. 12.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
of the fabric. 9.1.2 Shorter times indicate better ab- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
8.2.4 Place the embroidery hoop with sorbency. +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
the specimen surface 10 ± 1.0 mm (0.394 [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
± 0.04 in.) below the tip of the burette 12.2 These items may be obtained from any
and allow one drop of distilled or deion- 10. Report lab equipment supplier.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

ized water to fall on the cloth. Start the 12.3 Available from ASTM International,
stopwatch or timer immediately. Ob- 10.1 Report the average absorbency 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
serve the water drop without moving the time and standard deviation, if desired. 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
9555; web site: www.astm.org.
beaker with the specimen from under the 12.4 It has been observed that if specimens
burette to avoid disturbance of the water 11. Precision and Bias collected at drying cans are not brought to
drop and its interface with the specimen moisture equilibrium, the wetting times could
surface. 11.1 Precision. falsely indicate poor absorbency for that
8.2.5 Stop the timer or stopwatch when 11.1.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for fabric.

130 AATCC TM79-2010e2(2018)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Option A—Data (seconds)
Operator1 Operator 1 Operator 2 Operator 2 Operator 3 Operator 3
Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2
Nonwoven 2 4 1 1 1 2
4 2 1 1 2 3
4 3 1 1 1 2
2 4 2 1 0 2
2 4 1 1 0 1
Jersey 1 3 2 1 0 1
1 3 2 1 0 1
1 3 2 1 0 1
1 2 4 1 1 2
1 2 2 3 1 1
Interlock 9 17 9 16 12 25
13 22 9 23 12 9
15 28 4 60 11 9
8 50 14 44 12 6
8 20 14 35 11 6
Woven C 0 1 1 1 0 0
0 1 1 1 0 0
1 1 1 1 0 0
1 1 1 1 0 0
1 1 2 1 0 0
Woven Blend 2 2 3 1 0 1
1 1 1 1 0 1
2 1 2 1 0 0
2 2 2 1 0 1
1 1 2 1 0 0
Woven P 39 47 42 39 38 37
41 48 45 34 36 36
46 50 40 43 34 38
42 48 46 43 35 34
42 49 50 41 31 35

Table II—Option B—Data (seconds)

Operator 1 Operator 1 Operator 2 Operator 2 Operator 3 Operator 3
Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2
Nonwoven 2 2 1 2 4 2
2 3 1 2 0 2
2 2 2 1 2 1
2 3 2 2 1 2
2 2 2 1 0 1
Jersey 2 2 1 1 1 1
1 2 1 2 0 1
1 2 1 2 1 1
2 2 1 2 0 2
2 3 1 1 0 2
Interlock 6 11 14 26 15 12
5 16 60 21 12 8
5 9 19 44 11 7
8 10 5 29 14 5
6 15 23 7 15 4
Woven C 1 1 1 1 0 0
1 0 1 0 0 0
0 1 0 1 0 0
1 0 1 1 0 0
1 0 1 1 0 0
Woven Blend 2 1 1 1 0 1
2 2 1 1 0 1
1 2 1 1 0 0
1 1 1 1 0 1
1 1 2 1 0 1
Woven P 34 33 30 24 30 37
36 34 37 36 34 32
33 42 33 28 33 34
38 39 40 32 36 35
39 47 36 42 38 38

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM79-2010e2(2018)e2

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 131
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM81-2022

Test Method for pH of the Water-Extract from Wet Processed Textiles

1. Purpose and Scope processing operation. 12. Precision and Bias
1.1 This test method determines the pH 5.2 This method should be used in 12.1 Precision.
of wet processed textiles. conjunction with AATCC TM144, Test
Method for Alkali in Wet Processed Tex- 12.1.1 In late 1993, an interlaboratory
1.2 To make a quantitative determina- study was completed, which included
tion, the chemicals which influence pH tiles: Total, in order to quantitatively de-
termine the amount of an alkali present. five laboratories, two operators in each,
must be removed from the textile speci- running three determinations per fabric,
men, collected as a water extract and then While pH gives an indication of relative
alkali or acid content, the exact amount on four fabrics. No prior assessment was
accurately measured by a pH meter. made of the relative level of performance
can be masked by the presence of strong
2. Principle buffering agents. of the participating laboratories.
12.1.2 Analysis of the data set
2.1 The specimen is boiled in distilled 6. Apparatus and Materials (5×2×3×4=120 values) yielded compo-
or deionized water. The water-extract is nents of variance as follows:
6.1 pH meter with 0.1 unit graduations.
cooled to room temperature and the pH is
6.2 Beakers, glass, 400 mL. Laboratories 0.1203
determined.
6.3 Buffer solutions, pH 4.0, 7.0, 10.0

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Operators within laboratories 0.0150
3. Terminology or others as needed.
Specimens within materials,
3.1 bleaching, n.—elimination of un- 7. Calibration laboratories, and operators 0.0188
wanted coloring matter from a textile sub- 7.1 Calibrate the pH meter in accordance
strate by oxidative or reductive chemical 12.1.3 Table I indicates the critical differ-
with the manufacturer’s instructions. Select ences calculated using the values in 11.1.2.
treatment. buffer solutions for calibration which are in
3.2 pH, n.—the negative logarithm of the estimated range of the specimens’ pHs.
the effective hydrogen ion concentration Table I—Critical Differences for Two
or hydrogen ion activity in gram equiva- 8. Specimens Averages—95% Probability Level
lents per liter used in expressing both 8.1 Use a 10 ± 0.1 g specimen of the pH of Water-Extract from Bleached Textiles
acidity and alkalinity on a scale whose material to be tested. If the specimen is
values run from 0 to 14 with 7 represent- difficult to wet out, then it should be cut
Single Within Between
ing neutrality, numbers less than 7 in- N Operator Laboratory Laboratory
into small pieces.
creasing acidity and numbers greater than 1 0.38 0.51 1.09
7 increasing alkalinity. 9. Procedure 2 0.27 0.43 1.05
3.3 wet processing, n.—in textile man- 9.1 Boil 250 mL of distilled water at a 4 0.19 0.39 1.04
ufacturing, a collective term for pro- moderate rate for 10 min. Immerse the 8 0.13 0.37 1.03
cesses included in preparation, dyeing, specimen, cover the beaker with a watch
printing and finishing in which the textile glass and boil for an additional 10 min. 12.1.4 Differences between two aver-
material is treated with a liquid, normally 9.2 Allow the covered beaker and con- ages of N determinations, for the appro-
water, or with chemicals in solution or tents to cool to room temperature. Remove priate precision parameter, should reach
dispersion in a liquid. the specimen with tweezers, allowing the or exceed the table value to be statistically
excess liquid to drip back into the extract. significant at the 95% probability level.
4. Safety Precautions
9.3 Determine the pH of the extract 12.2 Bias.
NOTE: These safety precautions are using a pH meter operated according to 12.2.1 To the extent the pH meter used
for information purposes only. The pre- manufacturer’s instructions. in this test method is capable of measur-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- ing values of pH that are consistent with
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 10. Evaluation
true values of pH, the determination of the
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 10.1 The pH of the water-extract de- pH of the water-extract from a bleached
safe and proper techniques in handling pends on the chemical treatment previ- textile, using this test method, has no
materials in this test method. Manufac- ously given the textile, the pH of the known bias. During this study, no deter-
turers MUST be consulted for specific wash water, and the efficiency of the mination was made of the true value of
details such as material safety data sheets washing operation. this property by an independent, referee
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 10.2 Normally, the pH of the water- analytical method for the purpose of es-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules extract will be higher after caustic boiling tablishing presence or absence of bias.
must also be consulted and followed. than after bleaching. If the textile is scoured
4.1 Good laboratory practices should after bleaching, the pH may be lower. 13. History
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 10.3 Textiles with high pH values may
laboratory areas. 13.1 Revised in 2022 to align to the
exhibit yellowing tendencies, create shade AATCC Style Guide.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled changes, alter the exhaustion and fixation 13.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
with care. of dyes, and produce a decrease in the cure 2016, 2012. Editorially revised 2008. Reaf-
of resin finishes or exhaustion of softeners. firmed and editorially revised 2006. Reaf-
5. Limitations
firmed 2001. Revised (with title change) 1996.
5.1 pH can be used to determine the 11. Report
Revised 1990. Reaffirmed 1989, 1988, 1983,
suitability of wet processed textiles for 11.1 Describe or identify the sample. 1980, 1977, 1974, 1969, 1968, Revised 1963.
subsequent dyeing and/or finishing oper- 11.2 Report that sample was tested using 13.3 Developed in 1954 by AATCC Com-
ations or to evaluate the washing and/or AATCC TM81-2022. mittee RA34.
neutralizing efficiency following any wet 11.3 Report the pH of the water extract. 13.4 Related to ISO 3017.

132 AATCC TM81-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM82-2022

Test Method for Fluidity of Dispersions

of Cellulose from Bleached Cotton Cloth
1. Purpose and Scope vious apron during dispensing and mix-
ing. CAUTION: Always add acid to
1.1 The test procedures in this test water.
method are applicable to bleached, unfin- 4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should
ished cotton cloth. The fluidity of a dis- be located nearby and a self-contained
persion of bleached cellulose fibers in cu- breathing apparatus should be readily
priethylene diamine solvent is a sensitive available for emergency use.
measure of the degradation of the cellu- 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this
lose resulting from the action of acids, al- procedure must be controlled at or below
kalis, oxidizing or reducing agents. It is levels set by governmental authorities
therefore useful in determining the com- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
pleteness of the bleaching treatment to Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
which the cloth has been subjected, as posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
well as the effect of chemical treatments 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov Fig. 1—Ostwald Cannon-Fenske
on the tensile strength of the cloth. (Flu- for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- cuen viscosimeter.
idity of dispersions in cuprammonium can Conference of Governmental Indus-
hydroxide has been dropped from this trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
test method; see 11.1 for details.) Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short cooled water to 1.0 L in a volumetric
2. Principle term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and flask, observing all precautions to ex-
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended clude air.
2.1 The length of chain of cellulose as a general guide for air contaminant ex- 7.2 Store the reagents at all times under
molecules is decreased when treated with posure which should be met (see 11.2). oxygen-free nitrogen to minimize decom-
acid, alkali, oxidizing or reducing agents, position.
etc. The severity of the treatment deter-
5. Materials and Reagents 7.3 Measure the 1.0 M and 0.161 M so-
mines the extent of the shortening of the
lutions from burettes of known accuracy.
cellulose chain and the fluidity, or ease of 5.1 Cupriethylene diamine, 1.0 M solu- The burettes may be attached to the re-
flow, of a dispersion of the cellulose in tion. agent storage bottles by means of a side
the solvents. 5.2 Nitrogen (N2) arm sealed into the lower part of the bu-
5.3 Ostwald Cannon-Fiske viscometers rette and filled by application of nitrogen
3. Terminology (see Fig. 1 and 11.3). pressure on the storage bottle,
3.1 fluidity, n.—of a cellulose solu-
tion, a measure of the ease of flow or mo- 6. Preparation of Sample 8. Procedure
tion of a solution, and therefore, an indi- 6.1 Use a representative sample of 8.1 Ostwald Cannon-Fenske-type vis-
cator of the molecular weight of the bleached and unfinished cloth weighing cometers (see Fig. 1) having the charac-
cellulose. not less than 5g. teristics shown in Table I are suitable for
3.2 rhe, n.—the unit of fluidity; the re- 6.2 Cut the sample by use of a cutting determining fluidities in the range nor-
ciprocal of the unit of viscosity (the mill with a 20-mesh sieve and top deliv- mally found for bleached cotton. It is rec-
poise). ery tube, so that short individual fibers ommended that the efflux time (see 8.9)
about 1.5 mm (0.06 in.) long are obtained. exceed 100 s in order to ensure accuracy.
4. Safety Precautions 6.3 Run duplicate tests, using fibers 8.2 Weigh 0.4-0.45 g of the sample,
from the one sample. Divide the cut sam- prepared as previously described to the
NOTE: These safety precautions are ple into two portions of approximately nearest 0.1 mg. Remove the samples
for information purposes only. The pre- equal weight and store in separate con- from the desiccator one at a time, and
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- tainers overnight in a desiccator contain- make the weighings as quickly as possi-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ing conc. sulfuric acid. Samples condi- ble to prevent additional moisture pickup
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use tioned in this manner will have a from the air.
safe and proper techniques in handling moisture content of 2%. 8.3 Transfer the fibers carefully from
materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.4 The purpose of dividing the sample the weighing dish or watch glass to an ap-
turers MUST be consulted for specific into two portions is to reduce the time of proximately 120 mL (4 oz.) widemouth
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

details such as material safety data sheets exposure to the atmosphere during amber glass bottle.
and other manufacturers recommenda- weighing. The weight of the specimen for
tions. All OSHA standards and rules 8.3.1 To the specimen in the solution
the fluidity determination should be suffi- bottle, add X mL of 0.167 M cupriethyl-
must also be consulted and followed. cient to give a 0.5% solution of the cotton. ene diamine solution, where X is calcu-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
lated as follows:
be followed, Wear safety glasses in all 7. Preparation of Solutions
laboratory areas. X = 120 × weight of specimen × 0.98
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 7.1 Prepare 0.167 M cupriethylene di- 8.4 Sweep out the air in the bottle
with care. Use chemical goggles or face amine solution by diluting 161 mL of the above the solution by applying a brisk
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 1.0 M solution with freshly boiled and stream of purified nitrogen over the sur-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM82-2022 133
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Viscosimeter Characteristics the results reported by Technician 3, for
each of the treatments. This is a very lim-
Approx. Range of ited study, and caution is advised in the
Size No. Efflux Time, s Capillary Diameter, cm Fluidity Range Rhes application of these estimates to specific
200 100 to 700 0.097 to 0.103 1.43 to 10.0 testing scenarios (see Table II).
300 100 to 700 0.120 to 0.130 0.80 to 04.0
400 100 to 700 0.180 to 0.190 0.1175 to 0.8300 With three technicians involved in this
limited study, it was possible to assess the
effect of multiple technicians in test re-
sult comparisons by looking across tech-
face of the solution for 20 s, and quickly 11. Precision and Bias nicians in treatments and calculating VO
screw the cap of the bottle in place. (technician) and V (residual) components
8.5 Shake the bottle by means of an 11.1 Precision Estimate. of variance for each treatment. The above
automatic shaker at intermediate speed 11.1.1 Single Laboratory Study. Esti- summary shows rather large values for
for 2 h. mates of Components of Variance for CDm (multiple O in lab), due to the level
8.6 Remove the bottle from the shaker technicians (VO) and residual error (V), differences among technicians. This is a
and add to the solution Y mL of 1.0 M and their associated Critical Differences, very limited study, and caution is advised
cuen, where Y is calculated as follows: CDm (multiple technicians in lab) and in application of these estimates to spe-
CDo (single technician in lab) were de- cific testing scenarios. All of the above
Y = 80 × weight of specimen × 0.98 termined in a single laboratory in 2005. considerations were based on a 95% con-
8.7 Repeat the nitrogen treatment and Three technicians performed duplicate fidence level.
bottle-shaking as described, with the ex- tests on materials, according to 6.3 at 11.1.3 95% Precision Estimates from
ception that the shaking time should be 3 h. three treatment levels of no bleach (NB), Analysis of the Whole Data Set. Using
8.8 Permit the bottle to stand for 30 standard bleach (SB), and over bleached Analysis of Variance, Components of
min after removing from the shaker and (OB), using the Cuen Method. Variance for technicians and residual
before loading the viscometer. The vis- 11.1.2 95% Precision Estimates from were computed and are shown in Table
cometer should be flushed with nitrogen Individual Technician and Treatment Val- III. As a result of the difference in results
gas prior to being loaded with the disper- ues. The results shown in Table II are the reported by Technician 3, the values gen-
sion. The viscometer is loaded by invert- average of two determinations by a single erated for CDm (multiple operators in a
ing it with the capillary side arm sub- technician. Based on these averages, the single lab) were also high. These esti-
merged in the cellulose dispersion and components of variance (Vo) and residual mates pertain only to within laboratory
applying suction to the other arm of the error (V) for each technician were com- precision. A much broader study, with
instrument. Draw the dispersion into both puted. As can be seen even in this limited multiple laboratory participation, must be
the bulbs on the capillary arm to the study, there was an apparent difference in made to yield reliable between laboratory
etched mark. Rotate the pipette to its nor-
mal vertical position, and place the vis-
cometer in a constant-temperature water
bath at 25 ± 1°C (77 ± 2°F). The liquid Table II—Data Summary for Technicians and Treatments
will drain into the lower reservoir and
Technician
will reach temperature equilibrium with TMT NB TMT SB TMT OB Summaries
the bath (approx. 5 min).
Tech 01 Av(2) 0.564 0.811 4.0330 V 0.0006
8.9 Determine the efflux time by draw- V 0.0013 0.0004 0.0002 CDo 0.05
ing the liquid above the mark between the CDso 0.070 0.040 0.0300
two bulbs and measuring the time for the
meniscus to pass from the mark between Tech 02 Av(2) 0.609 0.885 4.1720 V 0.00014
the two bulbs to the mark below the V 0.0003 0.0001 0.00004 CDo 0.02
lower bulb. Take the average of two or CDso 0.030 0.020 0.0100
more observations. Tech 03 Av(2) 0.397 0.745 3.6250 V 0.0107
V 0.0022 0.0238 0.0060 CDo 0.20
9. Calculations CDso 0.090 0.310 0.1500
Treatment Summaries AV-Rhes Units
9.1 The fluidity in rhes, F, is calculated
DC-Rhes Units
as follows: TMT1 TMT2 TMT3 V-Rhes squared
F = 100/ctd 3 Tech (O=3) VO 0.0118 0 0.0795
V 0.0012 0.0088 0.0021
where:
c = instrument constant determined Single O CDo 0.07 0.19 0.09
from a liquid of known viscosity. Multiple O CDm 0.31 0.19 0.79
t = time of discharge of the liquid CD Equations: CDo=2.8 (V/2)^0.5 CDm=2.8 (V/2 + VO)^0.5
within the ring interval in seconds.
d = density of cuen solution, 1.052.
Table III—Components of Variance and 95% Precision Estimates
10. Report Components of Variance
10.1 Describe or identify the bleached Source COV Unit Var
O.L VO 0.0307
and unfinished cloth sample.
Res V 0.0038
10.2 Report that sample was tested us- 95% Precision Estimates
ing AATCC TM 82 - 2022 Single O in Lab CDo 0.1200 CDso=2.8 (V/2)^0.5
10.3 Report the average efflux time. Multiple O in Lab CDm 0.5100 CDw=2.8 (V/2) + VO)^0.5

134 AATCC TM82-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

method (see 11.4). ally revised and reaffirmed 2001;revised vised 1983; reaffirmed, 1979, 1975; editori-
12.2 Available from Publications Office, 1996; editorially revised, 1990; editorially re- ally revised 1975, 1974; reaffirmed, 1972,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper vised and reaffirmed 1989; editorially revised 1968, 1961.
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. 1988, 1985; reaffirmed 1984; editorially re- 13.3 Developed in 1954 by AATCC RA34.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM82-2022 135
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM84-2000e(2018)e

Test Method for Electrical Resistance of Yarns

Developed in 1955 by AATCC Commit- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should supply of yarn is available, prepare larger
tee RA32; reaffirmed 1960, 1969, 1973, be followed. Wear safety glasses in all specimens by winding 50-100 turns on a
1977, 1989, 2005, 2011, 2018; editori- laboratory areas. skein winder, then fastening the strands
ally revised 1974, 1984, 1985, 1997, 4.2 The safety recommendations pro- with adhesive tape to prepare lengths
2008, 2019; revised 1982, 2000 (with vided by the manufacturer of the radioac- suitable for the electrode system used.
title change); editorially revised and re- tive bar should be followed. The number of strands in the specimen
affirmed 1987, 1995. 4.3 The radioactive bar emits alpha ra- must be the same for each test specimen
diation which is externally harmless to for reproducible results. The resistance
the human body. The radioactive isotope may also be dependent on the cross-section
1. Purpose and Scope polonium 210 is toxic and precaution of the yarn bundle; thus, similarly manu-
should be exercised to prevent ingestion factured fibers may yield yarns with dif-
1.1 The purpose of this method is to or inhalation of the solid material. Do not ferent resistance, due to different num-
determine the electrical resistance of any take the radioactive bar apart or touch the bers of filaments in the yarn bundle or
textile yarns containing natural or man- radioactive strip under the grid. If the different numbers of plies.
made fibers. The tendency of a textile strip is touched or handled, wash hands
yarn to accumulate electrical charges thoroughly at once. Return the device to 7. Procedure
may depend upon the electrical resistance the manufacturer when it loses its effec-
of the yarn. Due to the mechanism of tiveness as a static eliminator or for dis- 7.1 Calibrate the electrical resistance
conductance, this method is not applica- posal if use is to be discontinued. Do not meter according to the manufacturer’s
ble to yarns containing randomly situated discard as scrap. recommendations.
stainless steel or other highly conductive 7.2 Condition the test specimens in a
fibers (refer to AATCC TM76, Test suitable testing chamber or conditioning
5. Apparatus and Materials
Method for Electrical Surface Resistivity room at the pre-selected relative humidity
of Fabrics). 5.1 Electrical resistance meter equipped and temperature at which the electrical
with either fixed position parallel plate resistance of the yarn is to be measured.
2. Principle electrodes or with separate variable posi- 7.2.1 For yarns which require antistatic
tion parallel plate electrodes (see 11.1). treatments or whose electrostatic propen-
2.1 Specimens of yarn are conditioned The concentric ring electrode system rec- sity is critical, measurements at 20% RH
at specified relative humidity and temper- ommended for fabrics in AATCC TM76 will be most meaningful. For special re-
ature. The electrical resistance of the yarn is not suitable for use in testing yarns. quirements other relative humidities may
held between two electrodes is measured 5.2 Conditioning and test chamber (see be used. For example, preconditioning at
by the use of an electrical resistance 11.2). 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 5°F) is required for anti-
meter. 5.3 Standard resistors. static sheeting, film and textiles for use in
5.4 Radioactive bar. hospital operating rooms (see 11.2.1). If
3. Terminology it is necessary to measure electrical resis-
6. Test Specimens tance under a broad range of conditions,
3.1 electrical resistance, n.—the additional tests may be run at 65% RH
physical property of a material which is a 6.1 The length of the test specimens and at 24°C (75°F) or other relevant con-
measure of the ability of electrons to flow depends on whether or not the electrodes ditions (see 11.3).
through it when a voltage is applied used are in fixed or variable position. If 7.2.2 Condition the specimens at 24°C
across two points on the material (resis- the electrode system used provides for and at the predetermined relative humid-
tance [in ohms] equal voltage [in volts] variable distances between the parallel ity for a minimum of 4 h or until equilib-
divided by current flow [in amperes]). plates, run a preliminary test to determine rium is attained. A sufficient indication of
NOTE: This test method measures the what distance between the plates pro- equilibrium is no significant change of re-
electrical resistance of a material between vides the greatest sensitivity for resis- sistance on further conditioning. A signif-
two electrodes, and the results are ex- tance measurements for the meter being icant change may be considered ± 5% of
pressed as resistance per unit of length used. the logarithm of the resistance (Log R).
per yarn strand, ohms per 10 mm. 6.2 To determine the uniformity of re- 7.3 Remove static charges from the
sistance along a single end of yarn, make surface of the yarn by passing a radioac-
4. Safety Precautions measurements on at least 10 specimens of tive bar over both sides of the specimen.
single strands. 7.4 Place the yarn test specimen in firm
NOTE: These safety precautions are 6.3 For predicting the properties of wo- contact with the electrodes with the direc-
for information purposes only. The pre- ven or knitted fabrics to be made from tion of the yarn perpendicular to the adja-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- yarn tested by this method, measure- cent edges of the electrodes. Apply suffi-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ments should be made on multiple cient tension to hold the strands straight.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use strands. 7.5 Measure the electrical resistance of
safe and proper techniques in handling 6.4 Prepare a minimum of three test the specimen according to the operating
materials in this test method. Manufac- specimens for each test, with parallel instructions and procedures for the partic-
turers MUST be consulted for specific strands having the same tension, evenly ular resistance meter being used.
details such as material safety data sheets spaced, with no overlap or touching 7.6 Allow the current to pass through
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- along their length. When a limited supply the sample for a minimum period of 1
tions. All OSHA standard and rules must of yarn is available, each specimen min and until a constant reading is ob-
also be consulted and followed. should contain 10 strands. If an adequate tained. The time to reach a constant read-

136 AATCC TM84-2000e(2018)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ing may vary with the applied voltage of the resistance (Log R) in ohms per 10 11.2 A conditioning and testing chamber
and with the resistance of the test speci- mm per strand of yarn and the tempera- is required capable of providing relative
men. High voltages for prolonged periods ture and relative humidity used (see humidity control of ± 2% (preferably effective
of time may damage the yarn. 10.1). over a range of 20-65% RH) and temperature
7.7 For referee purposes, use 30-40 control of ± 1°C with circulating air. Since
volts for a minimum period of 1 min or equilibration of a test specimen from the dry
until a constant reading is obtained at an 10. Precision and Bias versus the wet condition relative to the
electrode separation of 10 mm (see 11.4). humidity of the test chamber may show
10.1 Precision. Experience has shown hysteresis, it is recommended that specimens
7.8 Avoid the use of any electrically
conductive liquids on either the yarn that the reproducibility is within ± 10% of approach equilibrium from the dry side rela-
the logarithm of the average resistance. tive to the humidity in the test chamber when-
specimens or the apparatus. ever possible.
10.2 Bias. Electrical resistivity can be
defined only in terms of a test method. 11.2.1 National Fire Protection Association,
8. Evaluation There is no independent method for de- Standard NFPA Code #56 A-1973 Section
termining the true value. As a means of 4663.
8.1 Compute the resistance in ohms per 11.3 Accumulation of static electricity gen-
10 mm per strand of yarn. estimating this property, the method has
no known bias. erally is greater the lower the relative humid-
ity (and vice versa). Yarns which show a low
S r1 + r2 + r3 + … + rn degree of static accumulation at 40% RH may
R = ---- × --------------------------------------------------- × 10
D n exhibit severe static accumulation at 20-25%
11. Notes
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

RH, while yarns which exhibit static problems

where: 11.1 The resistance meter in conjunction at 40% RH may exhibit a low degree of static
R = resistance in ohms per mm per with the electrode system should be capable of accumulation at 65% RH. The relationship be-
strand measuring values in the range of 108 -1015 tween the tendency for static accumulation
S = number of strands per specimen ohms for any critical uses. Equipment that is and relative humidity varies with the specific
D = distance between electrodes in capable of measuring values in the range of antistatic agent, fiber, yarn construction, sur-
mm 108 -1013 ohms is suitable for work where per- face character, etc. Therefore, 40% RH may
r = resistance of individual speci- formance is known to be acceptable when the not provide significant performance properties
mens containing S strands per resistance is < 1013 ohms.
of a yarn unless the tests are also run at 20 or
specimen 11.1.1 External fixed-position parallel plate
25% RH, an atmospheric condition not un-
electrodes may be used with this instrument
n = total number of specimens tested and may be built according to specifications usual in modern heated and air-conditioned
(multiplication times 10 converts described by Hayek & Chromey in American buildings. Complete information may also re-
to the same scale as previously Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 40, 1951, pp164-168. quire information on resistance at the upper
used for this test method) For more versatility these electrodes may be level of 65% RH.
designed so that the distance between them 11.4 For more detailed information regard-
9. Report may be adjusted from 5-50 mm. ing the measurement of resistances, see
11.1.2 Other resistance testers may be satis- ASTM D257, Tests for D-C Resistance or
9.1 Report the result as the logarithm factory for this test. Conductance of Insulating Materials.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM84-2000e(2018)e 137
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM86-1973e10(2016)e

Test Method for Drycleaning: Durability of Applied Designs and Finishes

Developed in 1957 by AATCC Commit- tions. All OSHA standards and rules 5.8 Drycleaning detergent (see 10.5).
tee RA43; revised 1963, 1968, 1970, must be consulted and followed. 5.9 Hand iron, steam press or flatbed
1973; reaffirmed 1976, 1979, 1989, 4.1 Good laboratory practices should press.
2000, 2005, 2016; editorially revised be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
1969, 1983, 1986, 1993, 1995, 2004, laboratory areas. 6. Test Specimens
2008, 2010, 2019; editorially revised 4.2 All chemicals should be handled
and reaffirmed 1985, 1994, 2011. with care. 6.1 One test specimen is required. The
4.3 Perchloroethylene is toxic by inha- size of the specimen conforms to the
lation, by repeated contact with the skin weight range of the product tested as
1. Purpose and Scope and by ingestion. It should be used only follows:
1.1 This test method indicates the ef- in a well vented atmosphere. Toxicology up to 135 g/m2: 203 × 203 mm
fect of repeated (see 10.1) drycleanings studies with laboratory animals have (4 oz/yd 2: 8 × 8 in.)
on the durability of applied-design or fin- shown evidence of cancer in rats and
139 to 203 g/m2: 152 × 152 mm
ish on textiles and other materials. It is mice exposed to perchloroethylene va-
(4.1 to 6.0 oz/yd 2: 6 × 6 in.)
also applicable for evaluating the durabil- pors at 100-400 ppm concentrations for
prolonged times. Fabric saturated with 207 to 305 g/m2: 127 × 127 mm
ity of applied design materials and finish- (6.1 to 9.0 oz/yd 2: 5 × 5 in.)
ing agents manufactured for use on fab- this solvent should be dried in an ade-
rics and other products intended for quately ventilated hood. Use chemical over 305 g/m2: 102 × 102 mm
apparel and household use which are ren- goggles or face shield, impervious gloves (9 oz/yd 2: 4 × 4 in.)
ovated in consumer service by commer- and an impervious apron when handling
perchloroethylene. 6.2 For water-repellency evaluations, a
cial drycleaning procedures. This test minimum specimen size of 178 mm (7
method is to be used for evaluating the 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should
be located nearby and an organic vapor in.) square is necessary (i.e., for AATCC
resistance of colors to spot and stain re- TM22, Test Method for Water Repel-
moval procedures used by the drycleaner. respirator should be readily available for
emergency use. lency: Spray).
1.2 This test method is not intended for
evaluating colorfastness to drycleaning. 4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this
procedure must be controlled at or below 7. Procedure
For colorfastness properties use AATCC
TM132, Test Method for Colorfastness to levels set by governmental authorities 7.1 Run Number 1: Place the specimen
Drycleaning. (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health in a steel container with 150 mL of per-
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible chloroethylene, 1 mL drycleaning deter-
2. Principle exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29 gent (see 10.6) and 100 steel balls. Seal
CFR 1910.1000; see web site: the container (see 10.7), clamp in the ac-
2.1 A specimen is agitated in a solution www.osha.gov for latest version). In ad- celerated laundering machine and run at
of solvent and a drycleaning detergent dition, the American Conference of Gov- room temperature 27°C (81°F) for 10
with steel balls to simulate the kind of ernmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) min. Drain.
mechanical action that occurs in a dry- Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) com- 7.2 Run Number 2: Replace the solvent
cleaning machine. A large specimen is prised of time weighted averages (TLV- with an equal amount of perchloroethyl-
provided to produce a correlation with TWA), short term exposure limits (TLV- ene without detergent and run another
commercial conditions. STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are 10 min. Drain.
recommended as a general guide for air 7.3 Run Number 3: Repeat Run Num-
3. Terminology contaminant exposure which should be ber 2. Remove the specimen, blot thor-
met (see 10.2). oughly between paper towels and air dry.
3.1 drycleaning, n.—the cleaning of
fabrics with organic solvents such as pe- 7.4 Finish the specimen by one of the
troleum solvent, perchloroethylene or 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 10.3) following methods:
fluorocarbon. 7.4.1 Hand Pressing [for all except pile
5.1 Accelerated laundering machine fabrics (see 10.8)]—Cover with a damp
NOTE: The process also includes add- for rotating closed canisters in a thermo-
ing detergent and moisture to the solvent, muslin cloth, weighing 135-153 g/m2
statically controlled water bath at 40 ± 2 (4.0-4.5 oz/yd2), previously saturated
up to 75% relative humidity, and hot rpm.
tumble drying to 71°C (160°F). with water and wrung out so as to retain
5.2 Stainless steel cylindrical contain-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

moisture equal to approximately 75% of

ers, 203 × 89 mm (8.0 × 3.5 in.) in diame- its dry weight and press with a hand iron
4. Safety Precautions ter equipped with solvent-resistant rings. having a temperature between 135-150°C
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.3 Teflon liners. (275-300°F) until dry.
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.4 Metal adapters (to hold containers 7.4.2 Steam Pressing [for all except
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- on shaft of accelerated laundering ma- pile fabrics (see 10.8)]—A hotbed or pol-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- chine) (see 10.9). ished metal-top type press for flat fabrics,
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.5 Stainless steel balls, 6.3 mm (0.25 or a cloth-top type press for rough
safe and proper techniques in handling in.). crepes, operating at a steam pressure of
materials in this test method. Manufac- 5.6 Gray Scale for Color Change between 448 and 482 kPa (65-70 psi).
turers MUST be consulted for specific (AATCC EP1) (see 10.4). Lower the head of the machine and hold
details such as material safety data sheets 5.7 Perchloroethylene, drycleaning in contact with the fabric. During this pe-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- grade. riod admit steam from the buck of the

138 AATCC TM86-1973e10(2016)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
press for a period of 5-10 s. ish performance characteristics in accor- 10.2 Available from Publications Office,
dance with AATCC TM22. ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
8. Evaluation and Classification 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
9. Precision and Bias
8.1 Durability of Applied Designs— 10.3 For potential equipment information
Rate the specimens containing flock, 9.1 Precision. Precision for this test pertaining to this test method, please visit
method has not been established. Until a the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
metallic or other applied designs for ap- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
pearance as follows: precision statement is generated for this
test method, use standard statistical tech- of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Grade A5—negligible or no change in Corporate members, but AATCC does not
appearance. niques in making any comparisons of test qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
Grade A4—slightly changed in ap- results for either within-laboratory or tify that any of the listed equipment or
pearance. between-laboratory averages. materials meets the requirements in its test
Grade A3—noticeably changed in ap- 9.2 Bias. The durability of applied de- methods.
pearance. signs and finishes to drycleaning can be 10.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
Grade A2—considerably changed in defined only in terms of a test method. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709;
There is no independent method for de- tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933;
appearance. e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.
termining the true value. As a means of
Grade A1—much changed in appear- aatcc.org.
estimating this property, the method has
ance. 10.5 Use any reputable supplier of dry-
no known bias.
8.2 Durability of Fabric Handle—Rate cleaning detergent.
specimens for change in handle as follows: 10.6 Where residual soap affects the perfor-
10. Notes mance of the finish (e.g., where water-repel-
Grade B5—negligible or no change in
handle. 10.1 This test is based on an extensive se- lency evaluation is impaired by the presence
Grade B4—slightly changed in handle. ries of interlaboratory tests which showed of detergent) the detergent may be omitted
good correlation between laboratory tests and from the test solution, but it is an artificial
Grade B3—noticeably changed in han- condition.
dle. commercial drycleanings for as many as three
repeated drycleanings. Since a major loss of 10.7 The jars need not be immersed in a
Grade B2—considerably changed in finish material occurs in the first drycleaning, water bath as required in washfastness tests.
handle. a single application of this test furnishes a 10.8 Pile fabrics need only be air dried by
Grade B1—much changed in handle. good indication of the effect of repeated any suitable means.
8.3 Finish Performance—Evaluate fin- drycleanings. 10.9 Necessary on older models.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM86-1973e10(2016)e 139
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM88B-2018t

Test Method for Seam Smoothness in Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit- visually comparing the specimen seam with care.
tee RA61; reaffirmed 1969, 1973; edito- smoothness after laundering with grades 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
rially revised 1974, 1983, 1985, 1986, represented by the appropriate AATCC dations should be followed when operat-
1991, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2012, Photographic Seam Smoothness Scale. ing laboratory testing equipment.
2016, June 2018; editorially revised Results are reported as a seam smooth-
and reaffirmed 1978, 1984, 2001; re- ness (SS) grade of 1 to 5, with 1 repre- 5. Uses and Limitations
vised 1970, 1975, 1981, 1989 (with title senting the least smoothness (most
change), 1992, 1996, 2003, 2006, puckering) and 5 representing most 5.1 This test method is designed to be
2010, 2011, 2014, January 2018 (with smoothness. used only for evaluating the appearance
title change), November 2018. Techni- of washable seamed fabrics after home
cally equivalent to ISO 7770. 3. Terminology laundering.
5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for product the test under relatively severe laun-
Foreword cessing or testing of textiles, material that dering conditions. It is recognized that
is used to bring the total weight or vol- special cycles or features are available on
This test method and its accompanying ume of the textiles to an amount specified current washing machines and dryers to
photographic scales were developed for in the procedure. achieve improved performance on certain
evaluation of woven fabrics with a dura- 3.2 durable press, adj.—having the items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ble-press finish. It is common industry ability to retain substantially the initial agitation to protect delicately con-
practice to use the method and scales for shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and structed items, and durable press cycles,
evaluation of other textile materials al- unwrinkled appearance during use and with cool-down or cold rinses and reduced
though some specimens may have differ- after laundering or drycleaning. spin speeds, to minimize wrinkling.
ent appearance characteristics due to dif- 3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
ferent fabric or seam construction. a test specimen resulting from compari- mussiness present in seamed fabrics. The
Standard laundering procedures remain son to a scale. evaluation process is, however, based on
consistent to allow valid comparison of 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- the visual appearance of specimens in-
results. Standard procedures represent, als, a process intended to remove soils cluding such effects.
but may not exactly replicate, current and/or stains by treatment (washing) with 5.4 The Seam Smoothness Scales were
consumer practices, which vary over time an aqueous detergent solution and nor- photographed from woven fabrics. It is
and among households. Alternate laun- mally including rinsing, extracting and understood that the photographs do not
dering procedures and machine parame- drying. duplicate other fabric or seam possibili-
ters may be found in AATCC LP1, Labo- 3.5 laundering creases, n.—sharp ties. The scales are to be used as guides
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: folds or lines running in any direction in a that represent various levels of seam
Machine Washing (see 12.3) and ISO washed or dried specimen. smoothness.
6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and NOTE: Laundering creases are an un- 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
drying procedures for textile testing (see intended result of restricted movement of sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
12.8). specimens in the washer or the dryer. These may not be characteristic of actual
3.6 seam smoothness, n.—in fabrics, performance, in use.
1. Purpose and Scope the visual impression of planarity of a 5.6 The interlaboratory reproducibility
seamed specimen quantified by compari- of the results of this test method depends
1.1 This test method is intended to de- son with a set of reference standards. upon mutual agreement by users of the
termine the smoothness appearance of method on the washing and drying condi-
seams in fabrics after being subjected to 4. Safety Precautions tions as outlined in Tables I-IV.
home laundering procedures. Several
washing and drying procedures provide NOTE: These safety precautions are
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
standard parameters to represent common for information purposes only. The pre-
home care options. cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
1.2 Seams in any washable fabric (wo- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- fabric temperature settings.
ven, knitted, or nonwoven) may be evalu- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
ated for smoothness using this method. safe and proper techniques in handling ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
1.3 Techniques for seaming are not materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
outlined, since the purpose is to evaluate turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.4 White towel, large enough to ac-
seams as they will be supplied from man- details such as material safety data sheets commodate test specimen, any weight,
ufacturing or as ready for use. Further- and other manufacturer’s recommenda- for hand washing.
more, seaming techniques would be con- tions. All OSHA standards and rules 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
trolled by fabric properties. must also be consulted and followed. IV, 12.2), or facilities for drip, screen or
4.1 Good laboratory practices should line drying.
2. Principle be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
laboratory areas. tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
2.1 Seamed fabric specimens are sub- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. rated shelves (see 12.3).
jected to standard home laundering prac- Care should be taken to prevent exposure 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu- to skin and eyes. pacity.
ated in a standard viewing area by 4.3 All chemicals should be handled 6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference

140 AATCC TM88B-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
The temperatures in this table are similar to those specified by the US Federal Trade Commission for care label verification (see Table VIII). Due to US Department of Energy
requirements, many consumer washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Table II—Standard Hand Washing Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
and Rinsing Temperatures
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp, Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F) Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) Type 1 Type 3
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir- Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
ing hand washing. Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
(A) Tumble Dry Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
(B) Line/Hang Dry Temperature Guide, in AATCC TM133, 8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
(C) Drip Dry Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat:
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat
(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
Hot Pressing (see 12.3). Take care to before the water begins to drain from the
avoid altering quality of the seam itself. final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
Detergent (powder, with brightener, see (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
12.3). 8. Laundering Procedure
low washing to proceed through the final
6.9 Laundering ballast Type 1 or Type 8.1 Machine Washing. spin cycle.
3 (see Table V). 8.1.1 Select washing conditions for 8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
Appendix A. recommended. Set washing machine con- taking care to minimize distortion.
6.11 AATCC Photographic Seam trols to generate the selected cycle pa- 8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may
Smoothness Scales, for single- and dou- rameters. be in a folded or creased state after wash-
ble-needle seams (see Fig. 1, 12.3). The ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
reproduction shown in Fig. 1 may not be 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
of all specimens, plus enough laundering moved by hand prior to drying.
used for rating.
ballast pieces to make a total load weight 8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very procedure.
7. Test Specimens critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit 8.2 Hand Washing.
7.1 Cut three 380 x 380 mm (15 x 15 the number of specimens per washer load 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length to those from one sample. Table II. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
and width fabric directions such that ex- 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow of water at this temperature to the wash
isting seams run through the middle of machine to fill to specified water level. tub.
each specimen. Where possible, each 8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
specimen should contain different groups Standard Reference Detergent to washing Standard Reference Detergent to wash
of lengthwise and widthwise yarns. The machine as directed by washing machine tub.
specimens should be marked to indicate manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
the lengthwise direction. is added directly to wash water, agitate gent.
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agita- 8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
ing, see 12.4. tion before adding wash load. gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may 8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens lution. Do not twist or wring.
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior and ballast), distributing evenly around 8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM88B-2018t 141
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.

Fig. 1—AATCC photographic seam smoothness scales.

8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) screen or perforated shelf of a condition-
detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist until dry. Do not blow air directly on ing/drying rack.
or wring. specimens as it may cause distortion.
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min 8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each dripping 9. Evaluation
squeeze in detergent solution. wet specimen by two corners, with the
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash fabric length in the vertical direction. Al- 9.1 Three trained observers should
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess low specimens to hang in still air at room evaluate each test specimen indepen-
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) dently.
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white until dry. Do not blow air directly on 9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci-
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub. specimens as it may cause distortion. fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu-
8.2.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) 8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each minate the viewing area with the over-
of clean water at the specified rinse tem- specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- head fluorescent light only. Turn all other
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub. rated surface, removing wrinkles without lights in the room off.
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to mens to rest in still air at room tempera- front of the specimen, 1219 ± 25 mm (48
distribute. Do not twist or wring. ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until ± 1in.) away from the board. It has been
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- found that normal variations in the height
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in mens as it may cause distortion. of the observer above and below the arbi-
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or 8.3.6 For all drying methods. allow trary 1524-mm (60-in.) eye level have no
wring. specimens to dry completely before significant effect on the grade given.
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min washing again. 9.4 Mount the test specimen on the
squeeze in rinse water. 8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci- viewing board with the seam in the verti-
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash mens are folded or creased after any dry- cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess ing cycle except the last, rewet and at- gle- or double-needle AATCC Photo-
water. Do not twist or wring. tempt to remove the creases by ironing graphic Seam Smoothness Scale beside
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot with a hand iron at a temperature suitable the specimen to facilitate comparative
water from washed specimen(s). Do not for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2), evaluation.
wring or twist. prior to additional laundering cycles. Do 9.5 Confine observations to the area in-
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases fluenced by the seam and disregard the
procedure. by hand ironing after the final drying cycle. appearance of the surrounding fabric. The
8.3 Drying. 8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and Seam Smoothness Scales were photo-
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- drying procedures for a total of 5 com- graphed from woven fabrics. It is under-
ble III. plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of stood that the photographs do not dupli-
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the cycles. cate other fabric or seam possibilities.
washed load (test specimens and ballast) 8.4 Conditioning. The scales are to be used as guides that
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- 8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is represent various levels of seam smooth-
ture control to generate the selected cycle complete, condition test specimens as di- ness.
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- 9.6 The seam smoothness (SS) grade is
low the dryer to run until the load is fully tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles that of the Photographic Scale seam that
dry. Remove specimens immediately. (see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated in most nearly matches the appearance of
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate the test specimen seam.
fabric specimen by two corners, with the conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 9.7 Average the nine observations
fabric length in the vertical direction. Al- for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay made on each test fabric (three grades on
low specimens to hang in still air at room each test specimen flat, separately, on a each of three test specimens). Report the

142 AATCC TM88B-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
average to the nearest tenth of a grade. Table VI—Components of Variance 12.5 Available from ASTM International,
This average is the unit of measure of this (as variance) 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
test method. 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax:
Component Variance +1.610.832. 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view-
10. Report Laboratory 0.113
ing laundered specimens is specified in this
FL Interaction 0.031 method. It is recognized, however, that physi-
10.1 Report for each sample tested: Specimen (FRL) 0.191 cal space limitations in certain laboratories
10.1.1 A description or identification will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those
of the sample. situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using viewing board may be used.
AATCC TM88B-2018t. Table VII—Critical Differences for Single 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other
10.1.3 Number of specimens tested. Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) parameters listed in this test method are stan-
10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., type 1 dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
Within Laboratory Between Laboratory most lab procedures, they represent, but may
or type 3.
10.1.5 Number of laundering cycles 0.70 1.16 not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
(default is 5 cycles). among households; lab practices must be con-
10.1.6 Laundering conditions, includ- sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem- Table VIII—Critical Differences for Multiple laundering equipment or conditions other than
perature, drying procedure and tumble Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) those specifically listed in this test method are
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha- used, they must be described in detail and
numeric designations may be used if they Within Laboratory Between Laboratory noted as a modification of the standard
are clearly understood by all parties. For method. Alternate laundering conditions are
0.70 1.26 outlined in AATCC LP1 and ISO 6330.
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble 12.8 Available from ISO, www.iso.org.
dry cycle.
10.1.7 Number of observers. trials between them. Appendix A
10.1.8 Seam smoothness scale used. 11.3 Bias. The value of seam appear- Evaluation Area
i.e., single-needle or double-needle. ance can be defined only in terms of a test
10.1.9 Any modifications of the test method. There is no independent method A1 Viewing Board.
method. for determining the true value. This test A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
10.1.10 Average seam smoothness method has no known bias. high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
(SS) grade. enough to accommodate scale and speci-
men side by side
12. Notes A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
11. Precision and Bias
12.1 For potential equipment information on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
11.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for pertaining to this test method, please visit the Approximate CIELAB values for the
seam smoothness were conducted in online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
1993 using Machine Wash Normal, 41°C, aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility ance of two units for each parameter is
and Tumble Dry, Normal/Cotton Sturdy of listing equipment and materials sold by its acceptable for the board color in this test
laundering settings. Six laboratories Corporate members, but AATCC does not method.
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
tested double-needle seams. Three ob- tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
servers in each laboratory independently als meets the requirements in its test methods.
other means to secure specimen and scale
evaluated the same three specimens from 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
each of the fabrics, yielding nine grades tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
to average for each test result, as required parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
by the method. or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research A2 Lighting.
11.2 Precision. Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919. A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
11.2.1 Double-Needle Seams. Compo- 549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: fixture (see 12.6).
nents of variance are given in Table VI, [email protected]. An alternate load size A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
and critical differences for single fabric was described in previous versions of this white lamps (without baffle or glass),
method (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g
and for multiple fabric comparisons are AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent),
A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
given in Tables VII and VIII, respec- but no machine is reported to meet the stan- (without baffle or glass),
tively. dard parameters for this load size. In addition, A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
11.2.2 If comparisons are made be- dimensional change results obtained with the A2.2 Eliminate all light sources except
tween laboratories on a single fabric, crit- alternate load size may not be equal to those the specified fluorescent lamps.
ical differences in Table VII are used. obtained with a standard load size. A3 Walls.
11.2.3 If comparisons are made be- 12.3 Materials or drawings available from A3.1 It has been the experience of
tween laboratories on multiple fabrics, AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle many observers that light reflected from
critical differences in Table VIII are used. Park NC 27709; tel:+1.919.549.8141; fax: the side walls near the viewing board can
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
11.2.4 If two laboratories are shown to web site: www.aatcc.org.
interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
be in statistical control and operating at 12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-
ommended that the side walls be painted
comparable levels, the magnitude of ap- ing, specimen edges may be pinked, slashed or matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
plicable critical differences may be less stitched. If edges of laundered specimens ap- or that blackout curtains be mounted on
than those given in these tables, and may pear distorted, clip as necessary before evalu- both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
be determined by data from comparison ating. nate the reflective interference.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM88B-2018t 143
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Scale Side View

(93 ± 1 in.) 1524 ± 25 mm
Front View
(60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for seam smoothness.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

144 AATCC TM88B-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM88C-2018t

Test Method for Crease Retention in Fabrics after Home Laundering

Developed in 1963 by AATCC Commit- visually comparing the specimen crease dations should be followed when operat-
tee RA61; revised 1975, 1979, 1987, after laundering with grades represented ing laboratory testing equipment.
1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996, by AATCC Three-Dimensional Crease 4.5 When evaluating crease retention,
2003, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2014, January Replicas. Results are reported as a crease use of a light shield can aid in prevention
2018 (with title change), November retention (CR) grade of 1 to 5, with 1 rep- of burns that could result from lamp heat.
2018; reaffirmed 1969, 1973; editorial- resenting the least retention and 5 repre-
ly revised 1974, 1985, 1986, 1991, senting most retention (sharpest crease). 5. Uses and Limitations
1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2012, June
2018; editorially revised and reaffirmed 3. Terminology 5.1 This test method is designed to be
1984 (new title), 2001. Technically used only for evaluating the appearance
equivalent to ISO 7769. 3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- of washable creased fabrics after repeated
cessing or testing of textiles, material that home laundering.
is used to bring the total weight or vol- 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
Foreword ume of the textiles to an amount specified duct the test under relatively severe laun-
in the procedure. dering conditions. It is recognized that
This test method and its accompanying 3.2 crease retention, n.—in fabrics, special cycles or features are available on
three-dimensional crease replica set were the visual impression of an inserted current washing machines and dryers to
developed for evaluation of woven fab- crease quantified by comparison with a achieve improved performance on certain
rics with a durable-press finish. It is com- set of reference standards. items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
mon industry practice to use the method 3.3 durable press, adj.—having the agitation to protect delicately con-
and replicas for evaluation of other textile ability to retain substantially the initial structed items, and durable press cycles,
materials although some specimens may shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
have different appearance characteristics unwrinkled appearance during use and duced spin speeds, to minimize wrinkling.
due to different fabric constructions. after laundering or drycleaning. 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
Standard laundering procedures remain 3.4 grade, n.—the number assigned to appearance of a crease. The evaluation
consistent to allow valid comparison of a test specimen resulting from compari- process is, however, based on the visual
results. Standard procedures represent, son to a scale. appearance of specimens including such
but may not exactly replicate, current 3.5 laundering, n.—of textile materi- effects.
consumer practices, which vary over time als, a process intended to remove soils 5.4 The Crease Replicas were cast
and among households. Alternate laun- and/or stains by treatment (washing) with from woven fabrics. It is understood that
dering procedures and machine parame- an aqueous detergent solution and nor- the replicas do not duplicate other fabric
ters may be found in AATCC LP1, Labo- mally including rinsing, extracting and possibilities (knits, nonwovens). The rep-
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: drying. licas are to be used as guides that repre-
Machine Washing (see 12.3) and ISO 3.6 laundering creases, n.—sharp sent various levels of fabric creasing.
6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and folds or lines running in any direction in a 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
drying procedures for textile testing (see washed or dried specimen. sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
12.8). NOTE: Laundering creases are an un- These may not be characteristic of actual
intended result of restricted movement of performance, in use.
1. Purpose and Scope specimens in the washer or the dryer. 5.6 The interlaboratory reproducibility
of the results of this test method depends
1.1 This test method is intended to de- 4. Safety Precautions upon mutual agreement by users of the
termine the retention of pressed-in method on the washing and drying condi-
creases in fabrics after being subjected to NOTE: These safety precautions are tions as outlined in Tables I-IV.
home laundering procedures. Several for information purposes only. The pre-
washing and drying procedures provide cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
standard parameters to represent common dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
home care options. sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
1.2 Creases in any washable fabric safe and proper techniques in handling fabric temperature settings. --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

(woven, knitted or nonwoven) may be materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
evaluated for retention using this method. turers MUST be consulted for specific ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
1.3 Techniques for creasing are not details such as material safety data sheets 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
outlined, since the purpose is to evaluate and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.4 White towels, large enough to ac-
creases as they will be supplied from tions. All OSHA standards and rules commodate test specimen, any weight,
manufacturing or as ready for use. Fur- must also be consulted and followed. for hand washing.
thermore, creasing techniques would be 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
controlled by fabric properties. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or
laboratory areas. line drying.
2. Principle 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
Care should be taken to prevent exposure tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
2.1 Creased fabric specimens are sub- to skin and eyes. rated shelves (see 12.3).
jected to standard home laundering prac- 4.3 All chemicals should be handled 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-
tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu- with care. pacity.
ated in a standard viewing area by 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM88C-2018t 145
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Detergent (powder, with brightener, see rection. center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
12.3). 8.1.5 For specimens to be drip dried
6.9 Laundering ballast Type 1 or Type 8. Laundering Procedure (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
3 (see Table V). before the water begins to drain from the

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in 8.1 Machine Washing. final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
Appendix A. 8.1.1 Select washing conditions for soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional Crease testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
Replicas, set of five (see Fig. 1, 12.3). ommended. Set washing machine con- low washing to proceed through the final
trols to generate the selected cycle pa- spin cycle.
7. Test Specimens rameters. 8.1.6 After each washing cycle, sepa-
8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
7.1 Cut three 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 of all specimens, plus enough laundering taking care to minimize distortion.
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length ballast pieces to make a total load weight 8.1.7 Washer creases. Specimens may
and width fabric directions. Where possi- of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very be in a folded or creased state after wash-
ble, each specimen should contain differ- critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
ent groups of lengthwise and widthwise the number of specimens per washer load moved by hand prior to drying.
yarns. The specimens should be marked to those from one sample. 8.1.8 Proceed to appropriate drying
to indicate the lengthwise direction. 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow procedure.
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- machine to fill to specified water level. 8.2 Hand Washing.
ing, see 12.4. 8.3.3 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may Standard Reference Detergent to washing Table II. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior machine as directed by washing machine of water at this temperature to the wash
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent tub.
Temperature Guide, in AATCC TM133, is added directly to wash water, agitate 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- Standard Reference Detergent to wash
Hot Pressing (see 12.3). tation before adding wash load. tub.
7.1.3 Press a crease through the middle 8.1.4 Add wash load (test specimens 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
of each specimen in the fabric length di- and ballast), distributing evenly around gent.
8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
lution. Do not twist or wring.
8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
or wring.
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
squeeze in detergent solution.
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess

Table II—Standard Hand Washing

and Rinsing Temperatures
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional crease replicas. ing hand washing.

146 AATCC TM88C-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. mens are folded or creased after any dry- each side of the test specimen to facilitate
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white ing cycle except the last, rewet and at- comparative evaluation. Mount replicas
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub. tempt to remove the creases by ironing 1, 3 and 5 on the left; mount replicas 2
8.2.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) with a hand iron at a temperature suitable and 4 on the right.
of clean water at the specified rinse tem- for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2), 9.5 Confine observations to the crease
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub. prior to additional laundering cycles. itself and disregard the appearance of the
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from Take care to avoid altering quality of the fabric. The Crease Replicas were cast
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to crease itself. Do not attempt to remove from woven fabrics. It is understood that
distribute. Do not twist or wring. wrinkles or creases by hand ironing after the replicas do not duplicate other fabric
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. the final drying cycle. possibilities (knits, nonwovens). The rep-
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in 8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and licas are to be used as guides that repre-
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or drying procedures for a total of 5 com- sent various levels of fabric creasing.
wring. plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of 9.6 The crease retention (CR) grade is
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min cycles. that of the Crease Replica that most
squeeze in rinse water. 8.4 Conditioning. nearly matches the appearance of the test
8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash 8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is specimen crease.
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess complete, condition test specimens as di- 9.7 Average the nine observations
water. Do not twist or wring. rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- made on each test fabric (three grades on
8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- each of three test specimens). Report the
water from washed specimen(s). Do not tiles (see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated average to the nearest tenth of a grade.
wring or twist. in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate This average is the unit of measure of this
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 test method.
procedure. for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay
8.3 Drying. each test specimen flat, separately, on a 10. Report
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- screen or perforated shelf of a condition-
ble III. ing/drying rack. 10.1 Report for each sample tested.
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the 10.1.1 A description or identification
washed load (test specimens and ballast) 9. Evaluation of the sample.
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
ture control to generate the selected cycle 9.1 Three trained observers should AATCC TM88C-2018t.
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- evaluate each test specimen indepen- 10.1.3 Number of specimens tested.
low the dryer to run until the load is fully dently. 10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
dry. Remove specimens immediately. 9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- or Type 3.
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- 10.1.5 Number of laundering cycles
specimen by two corners, with the fabric minate the viewing area with the over- (default is 5 cycles).
length in the vertical direction. Allow head fluorescent light and the flood lamp 10.1.6 Laundering conditions, includ-
specimens to hang in still air at room only. Turn all other lights in the room off. ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in perature, drying procedure and tumble
until dry. Do not blow air directly on front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
specimens as it may cause distortion. ± 1 in.) away from the board (see Fig. numeric designations may be used if they
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- A2). It has been found that normal varia- are clearly understood by all parties. For
ping wet specimen by two corners, with tions in the height of the observer above example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
the fabric length in the vertical direction. and below the arbitrary 1524-mm (60-in.) wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
Allow specimens to hang in still air at eye level have no significant effect on the dry cycle.
room temperature not greater than 26°C grade given. 10.1.7 Number of observers.
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly 9.4 Mount the test specimen on the 10.1.8 Any modifications of the test
on specimens as it may cause distortion. viewing board with the crease in the ver- method.
8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each tical direction. Place the most similar 10.1.9 Average crease retention (CR)
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- Three-Dimensional Crease Replicas on grade.
rated surface, removing wrinkles without
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
mens as it may cause distortion. Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
specimens to dry completely before Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
washing again.
8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci-
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
(A) Tumble Dry Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
(B) Line/Hang Dry Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
(C) Drip Dry (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM88C-2018t 147
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
11. Precision and Bias ical differences in Table VII are used. parameters listed in this test method are stan-
11.2.3 If comparisons are made be- dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
11.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for tween laboratories on multiple fabrics, most lab procedures, they represent, but may
crease retention were conducted in 1992 critical differences in Table VIII are used. not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
using Machine Wash Normal, 41°C, and tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
11.2.4 If two laboratories are shown to among households; lab practices must be con-
Tumble Dry, Normal/Cotton Sturdy laun- be in statistical control and operating at
dering settings. Six laboratories evaluated sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
comparable levels, the magnitude of ap- laundering equipment or conditions other than
six fabrics for crease retention grades. plicable critical differences may be less those specifically listed in this test method are
Three observers in each laboratory inde- than those given in these tables, and may used, they must be described in detail and
pendently evaluated the same three speci- be determined by data from comparison noted as a modification of the standard
mens from each of the fabrics, yielding trials between them. method. Alternate laundering conditions are
nine grades to average for each test re- 11.3 Bias. The value of crease reten- outlined in AATCC LP1 and ISO 6330.
sult, as required by the method. tion can be defined only in terms of a test 12.8 Available from ISO, www.iso.org.
11.1.1 The participating laboratories method. There is no independent method
were presumed to be performing the test for determining the true value. This test Appendix A
method under statistical control, without method has no known bias. Evaluation Area
verification.
11.1.2 Committee RA61 directed use 12. Notes A1 Viewing Board.
of the analysis of variance technique. No A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
correction was made for rating scale dis- 12.1 For potential equipment information high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
continuity. pertaining to this test method, please visit the enough to accommodate scale and speci-
11.1.3 Because variability was quite online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at men side by side
www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos- A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
high in the study, especially residual vari- sibility of listing equipment and materials sold
ance, users of the method are alerted to by its Corporate members, but AATCC does
on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
check for possible sources of variability not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or Approximate CIELAB values for the
before initiating any test program. certify that any of the listed equipment or ma- chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
11.1.4 The analysis has been retained terials meets the requirements in its test meth- ance of two units for each parameter is
for reference in the Committee RA61 ods. acceptable for the board color in this test
files. 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and method.
11.2 Precision. tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers other means to secure specimen and scale
11.2.1 Components of Variance are or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
given in Table VI, and critical differences such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.
for single fabric and for multiple fabric 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@
(60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
comparisons are given in Tables VII, and aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
VIII, respectively. in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg A2 Lighting.
11.2.2 If comparisons are made be- load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993 A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
tween laboratories on a single fabric, crit- Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma- fixture (see 12.6).
chine is reported to meet the standard parame- A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional white lamps (without baffle or glass),
change results obtained with the alternate load A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
size may not be equal to those obtained with a
Table VI—Components of Variance
standard load size. (without baffle or glass),
(as variance)
12.3 Materials or drawings available from A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle A2.2 Incandescent flood lamp, 500
Component Variance watts, 120 V, C9 filament, 90° flood spread.
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
Laboratory 0.0855 +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; A2.2.1 254-mm (10-in.) aluminum re-
FL Interaction 0.2049 web site: www.aatcc.org. flector, for use with flood lamp.
Specimen (FRL) 0.6304 12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder- A2.2.2 Light shield.
ing, specimen edges should be pinked, slashed A2.2.3 Position as shown in Fig. A2.
or stitched. If edges of laundered specimens
appear distorted, clip as necessary before eval- A2.3 Eliminate all light sources except
Table VII—Critical Differences for Single the specified fluorescent lamps and flood
uating.
Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) 12.5 Available from ASTM International, lamp.
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA A3 Walls.
Within Laboratory Between Laboratory 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. A3.1 It has been the experience of
1.37 1.59 9555; web site: www.astm.org. many observers that light reflected from
12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view- the side walls near the viewing board can
ing laundered specimens is specified in this interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
method. It is recognized, however, that physi-
Table VII—Critical Differences for Multiple ommended that the side walls be painted
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

cal space limitations in certain laboratories

Fabric Comparisons (95% probability) will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower or that blackout curtains be mounted on
Within Laboratory Between Laboratory both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
viewing board may be used.
1.37 2.03 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other nate the reflective interference.

148 AATCC TM88C-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Replica Replica Side View

(93 ± 1 in.)
1524 ± 25 mm
Front View (60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for crease retention.

Light Flood lamp

Shield with reflector
Eye Level

1524 ± 25 mm
Abitrary

(60 ± 1 in.)
5°± 0.5°

45°± 1°

1219 ± 25 mm 1829 ± 25 mm
(48 ± 1 in.) (72 ± 1 in.)

Fig. A2—Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease retention evaluation.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM88C-2018t 149
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM89-2019

Test Method for Mercerization in Cotton

1. Purpose and Scope hazard. Ethanol and methanol are flam- 6.7 Pipette, 10 mL.
mable liquids. Flammable liquids should 6.8 Drying oven.
1.1 This test method provides a method be stored in the laboratory only in small
for the determination of the presence of containers away from heat, open flame 7. Reagents and Materials
mercerization in dyed and undyed cotton and sparks. These chemicals should not
yarns and fabrics. In addition, the test be used near an open flame. 7.1 Hydrochloric acid (HCl) standard-
will give an indication of the complete- 4.4.1 Carry out reflux procedure in a ized approx. 0.1N.
ness of the reaction between the cotton well ventilated hood with an electrical 7.2 Barium hydroxide reagent
and the mercerization bath. heating mantle or a water bath as the heat [Ba(OH)2] approximately 0.25N (see
source. 13.1).
2. Principle 4.4.2 Use chemical goggles or face 7.3 Phenolphthalein.
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 7.4 Petroleum solvent [BP 30-60°C
2.1 Carefully scoured specimens of the vious apron when handling organic sol- (86-140°F)].
cotton to be tested and unmercerized cot- vents. 7.5 Alcohol (95% ethanol or anhy-
ton are immersed in separate baths of bar- 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should drous methanol).
ium hydroxide solution for a definite time be located nearby and an organic vapor 7.6 Enzyme, starch-solubilizing.
period. Aliquot portions of each soaking respirator and a self-contained breathing 7.7 Soap, neutral, granular (see 13.2).
bath and of fresh barium hydroxide solu- apparatus should be readily available for 7.8 Water, distilled.
tion are then titrated with hydrochloric emergency use. 7.9 Cotton yarn, unmercerized, for ref-
acid. 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this erence (standard cotton) (see 13.3).
2.2 The ratio of the amount of barium procedure must be controlled at or below 7.10 Cotton fabric, unmercerized, for
hydroxide absorbed by the mercerized levels set by governmental authorities reference (AATCC Crocking squares)
specimen to that absorbed by the unmer- [e.g., Occupational Safety and Health (see 13.4).
cerized specimen multiplied by 100 gives Administration’s (OSHA) permissible ex-
the barium activity number. posure limits (PEL) as found in 29 CFR 8. Test Specimens
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
3. Terminology for latest version]. In addition, the Ameri- 8.1 A minimum of 5 g of each sample
can Conference of Governmental Indus- and of the unmercerized standards are
3.1 mercerization, n.—a process for scoured as directed after which a 2 g
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
irreversibly altering the physical charac- specimen of each scoured sample is
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
teristics and appearance of natural cellu- weighed and placed in clean, dry glass-
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
losic fibers by swelling in strong alkali. stoppered flasks.
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
4. Safety Precautions as a general guide for air contaminant ex- 9. Procedure
NOTE: These safety precautions are posure which should be met (see 13.7).
9.1 Scouring. The purpose of the
for information purposes only. The pre- scouring operation is to remove all extra-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5. Limitations
neous matter, leaving the cotton cellulose
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.1 The test cannot be used satisfacto- in as pure a form as possible and without
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use rily if durable finishes or fibers other than changing it chemically.
safe and proper techniques in handling cotton are present. 9.1.1 The samples to be tested (at least
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

materials in this test method. Manufac- 5.2 Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR) 5 g each), together with the standard un-
turers MUST be consulted for specific prediction of barium number may be an mercerized cotton, are refluxed together
details such as material safety data sheets alternate method to titration. NIR has the successively for 1 h with petroleum sol-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- advantages of being fast (values in min- vent [boiling point 30-60°C (86-140°F)],
tions. All OSHA standards and rules utes versus days) and is non-destructive. 1 h with alcohol (95% USP ethanol, No.
must also be consulted and followed. However, an NIR library must first be es- 30 specially denatured alcohol, 95% or
4.1 Good laboratory practices should tablished to accurately predict barium anhydrous methanol may be used), and
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all number. This library must contain multi- for 1 h with distilled water (see 13.4).
laboratory areas. ple known samples encompassing the bar- 9.1.2 Following these three extrac-
4.2 All chemicals should be handled ium number range of interest. Typically, tions, starches are removed as follows:
with care. these known representatives will be from 9.1.3 Cover the sample with distilled
4.3 Use chemical goggles or face titrated fabrics. water containing 3% of a commercial
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- starch-solubilizing malt enzyme solution
vious apron during dispensing and mix- 6. Apparatus and heat to 60 ± 5°C (140 ± 9°F). Main-
ing of barium hydroxide, sodium carbon- tain the solution at this temperature for a
ate and hydrochloric acid. Concentrated 6.1 Burette (preferably automatic) (see period of 1 h. Pour off the enzyme solu-
acids should be handled only in an 13.4). tion, rinse and then scour as follows.
adequately ventilated laboratory hood. 6.2 Flask, Erlenmeyer, with reflux tube. 9.1.4 Boil the samples together for 1 h
CAUTION: Always add acid to water. 6.3 Flasks, glass-stoppered, 250 mL. in 1 L of water containing 10 g of a neu-
4.4 Petroleum solvent can be a com- 6.4 Flasks, Erlenmeyer, 125 mL. tral soap and 2 g of soda ash. Wash re-
bustible or flammable liquid, depending 6.5 Bottles, storage, 250-500 mL. peatedly in warm water until free from
on which solvent is used, and presents a 6.6 Beaker, 1500 mL. soap and alkali, i.e., until neutral to phe-

150 AATCC TM89-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
nolphthalein, squeeze and dry. The sam- Table I—Barium Numbers: Interlaboratory Tests on Mercerized Fabrics
ples and the standard unmercerized cot-
ton are dried in an oven at 100°C (212°F) Cloth Lab A Lab B Lab C1 Lab C2 Lab C3
until thoroughly dry. The samples are 80 × 80—35° Tw 118 118 117 120 114
then allowed to come to room conditions. 80 × 80—55° Tw 130 131 128 132 125
Each sample should then be cut into 108 × 58—55° Tw 141 145 143 143 140
small pieces [approximately 3 mm (0.125 136 × 64—55° Tw 122 123 123 122 120
in.) square] for subsequent weighing. 88 × 50—55° Tw 139 140 136 140 133
9.2 Testing. Prepare and test duplicate 1
Fabrics scoured by Lab C, unmercerized 80 × 80 as standard.
specimens from each sample. Weigh 2 g 2
Fabrics scoured by Lab A, unmercerized 80 × 80 as standard.
of each scoured sample and of the 3
Fabrics scoured by Lab C, 40/2 combed mercerized yarn as standard.
scoured standard cotton into dry 250-mL
flasks equipped with stoppers. (Ground
glass stoppers are recommended.) Add
30 mL 0.25N barium hydroxide (see 12. Precision and Bias ing soda lime to remove carbon dioxide. The
13.5) to each flask containing a test spec- latter must not be allowed to enter any burette
imen and to two empty flasks for blank 12.1 Precision. Precision for this test that might be used, because formation of bar-
determinations. Stopper each flask imme- method has not been established. Until a ium carbonate not only affects the concentra-
diately upon addition of the barium hy- precision statement is generated for this tion of the reagent but forms a film which
test method, use standard statistical tech- interferes with burette readings. A cork is fitted
droxide and store them for at least 2 h in a to the bottom of the burette in such a manner
water bath at 20-25°C (68-77°F) (room niques in making any comparisons of test
results for either within-laboratory or that the 250 mL Erlenmeyer flasks containing
temperature). Shake the flasks at frequent the specimens under test are locked into place
intervals. After 2 h, transfer 10 mL of so- between-laboratory averages.
without exposure to air during the addition of
lution (see 13.6) from each container, in- 12.2 Bias. Mercerization in cotton can barium hydroxide. The barium hydroxide solu-
cluding the blanks and titrate with 0.1N be defined only in terms of a test method. tion should cover the specimens, tilting the
hydrochloric acid, using phenolphthalein There is no independent method for de- flasks if necessary to accomplish this end.
as an indicator. termining the true value. As a means of 13.7 For the removal of 10 mL of barium
estimating this property, the method has hydroxide when equilibrium has been
no known bias. reached, a 10 mL pipette is used. The same pi-
10. Calculations
pette, burette, etc., should be used for the
10.1 Using the titration figures, deter- whole set of determinations and the same
mine the ratio of barium hydroxide ab- 13. Notes technique for emptying or filling pipettes and
sorbed by a mercerized specimen to that burettes should be used on each determina-
13.1 The barium hydroxide reagent is pre- tion. The hydrochloric acid burette is also
absorbed by the unmercerized standard. pared by shaking distilled water with slightly equipped with a cork to which the 125 mL
Multiply this ratio by 100 to obtain the more than the calculated quantity of barium flask can be attached during the titration of the
barium activity number. hydroxide, allowing it to stand overnight in a 10 mL aliquot portions of barium hydroxide,
Example: 10 mL of barium hydroxide stoppered bottle, and then siphoning the clear thereby eliminating titration errors resulting
solution (blank) required 24.30 mL of solution into a clean storage bottle. from carbon dioxide absorption by the alka-
0.1N HCl; 10 mL of barium hydroxide 13.2 Neutral Granular Soap is no longer line solution. In removing the 10 mL aliquot
available from AATCC. Interlaboratory test-
from an unknown sample of cotton re- ing determined that the soap prescribed in BS
portion of barium hydroxide from flasks con-
quired 19.58 mL of 0.1N HCl; 10 mL of taining specimens, the operator should use the
EN 20105 C10:2006 is a suitable substitute: end of his pipette to push the cotton against
barium hydroxide from unmercerized Free alkali (calculated as Na2C03): 0.3%
cotton (standard) required 21.20 mL of the wall of the flask and to express the excess
maximum. liquor. In this way, a larger amount of the solu-
0.1N HCl. Therefore the barium number Free alkali (calculated as NaOH): 0.1% tion will be available for drawing up into the
of the unknown sample is: maximum. pipette.
Total fatty content: 85.0% minimum.
24.30 – 19.58 Titer of mixed fatty acids prepared from the 13.8 Available from Publications Office,
--------------------------------- × 100 = 152 ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
24.30 – 21.20 soap: 30°C maximum.
Iodine value: 50 maximum. Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
10.2 Barium numbers should be run in Moisture content: 5.0%.
duplicate and should be reported sepa- Free from fluorescent brightening agents.
rately. Duplicate runs should not be off 13.3 Unmercerized standard cotton skeins
by more than four units. The titrations (40/2 ply) as used for the Draves Wetting 14. History
should be within 0.1 mL for check re- Tests are particularly satisfactory.
13.4 AATCC Crocking cloth is useful as the 14.1 Revised in 2019 to add unmercerized
sults. Skilled operators can estimate to unmercerized cotton reference fabric and reference fabric as an alternative to reference
within 0.05 mL. A difference of more should meet the specifications as outlined in yarn.
than four units between duplicate runs in- the notes for AATCC TM8, Test Method for 14.2 Revised 2017. Editorially revised and
dicates inaccuracy in running the test (see Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter. reaffirmed 2012. Editorially revised 2010. Ed-
Table I). 13.5 If it is known that all samples that test itorially revised 2009. Editorially revised and
do not contain finish or starch, then the scour- reaffirmed 2008. Reaffirmed 2003. Reaf-
11. Interpretation ing procedure may begin with the soap-and- firmed 1998. Editorially revised and reaf-
soda ash treatment. If one sample requires sol- firmed 1994. Editorially revised 1992.
11.1 A barium activity number in the vent extraction and the enzyme treatment, Editorially revised 1990. Editorially revised
range of 100-105 indicates no merceriza- then all samples including the standard cotton 1988. Editorially revised 1986. Editorially re-
tion. A barium activity number above must be treated together with the complete vised and reaffirmed 1985. Editorially revised
scouring procedure to insure the same final 1984. Reaffirmed 1980. Reaffirmed 1977. Ed-
150 indicates substantially complete re- state for the whole set of samples.
action between the cotton and the mercer- itorially revised and reaffirmed 1974.
13.6 An automatic burette is most conve-
izing bath. Intermediate numbers indicate nient for the addition of the barium hydroxide 14.3 Developed in 1958 by AATCC Com-
either incomplete reaction or use of a solution to the specimens. The air outlet must mittee RR66, jurisdiction transferred to RA34
weak mercerizing bath. be equipped with an absorption tube contain- in 2009.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM89-2019 151
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM90-2022

Test Method for Antibacterial Activity

of Textile Materials: Agar Plate
1. Foreword solidification. This provides the intimate 6. Safety Precautions
contact required between the test sample
1.1 The Agar Plate Method is a qualita- and the seeded agar. 6.1 The safety precautions specified in
tive method to determine antibacterial ac- the method/procedure are ancillary to the
tivity of diffusible antimicrobial agents testing procedures and are not intended to
incorporated into treated articles. This 3. Principle be all inclusive.
method is an adaptation of a test method 6.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref-
3.1 Test samples, including corre-
described by Ruehle and Brewer (see erence applicable safety data sheets, use
sponding untreated controls of the same
16.1) and was originally adopted as an safe and proper techniques, and wear ap-
material if available, are placed in inti-
AATCC tentative test method in 1958. propriate personal protective equipment
mate contact with agar which has been
RA31 revised this method in 1962 in or- in handling materials in this standard.
previously seeded with an inoculum of a
der to clearly define the objectives and 6.3 Users MUST consult manufactur-
test bacterium. After incubation, a clear
limitations of this method. In 1989, the ers for specific details such as equipment
area of interrupted growth underneath
method was discontinued and removed operating instructions and other recom-
and/or adjacent to the test sample indi-
from the Manual of International Test mendations. Consult and follow all appli-
cates antibacterial activity of the speci-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Methods and Procedures. The reason cable health and safety regulations (e.g.
men. A standard strain of bacteria is used
cited for removal was that pertinent as- OSHA standards and rules).
that is specific to the requirements of the
pects of the agar plate method were in- 6.4 See 4.4, 9.1, 12.1 for additional
sample under test. If no other bacterial
corporated in the rewrite of AATCC safety precautions and personnel training
species is specified, Staphylococcus au-
TM147, Test Method for Antibacterial related to handling bacteria.
reus and Klebsiella pneumoniae may be
Activity Assessment of Textile Materials:
used as representative gram-positive and
Parallel Streak Method. In 2011, RA31 7. Uses and Limitations
gram-negative organisms. Other recom-
updated and reactivated the method in
mended strains can be used.
part because ASTM cites this method in 7.1 The method is not suitable for ma-
their standard ASTM E1115, Standard terials which tend to encapsulate and pre-
Test Method for Evaluation of Surgical 4. Referenced Documents vent the diffusion of the antibacterial
Hand Scrub Formulations, and because agent. Not suitable for materials that con-
the agar plate method was found to be NOTE: Use current versions of all tain substances that may neutralize the
beneficial when testing odd-shaped or publications unless otherwise specified. antibacterial agent. Not suitable for anti-
non-flat test samples, such as batting, fi- 4.1 AATCC TM147, Test Method for microbial finishes that will react with the
ber fill, and yarn, as well as non-textile Antibacterial Activity of Textile Materi- agar.
materials such as foam or plastics. This als: Parallel Streak (see 16.2) 7.2 Being a qualitative method, the ef-
method is used to demonstrate bacterio- 4.2 ASTM E1115, Standard Test ficacy of the antimicrobial is not deter-
static activity by the diffusion of the anti- Method for Evaluation of Surgical Hand mined by zone size.
bacterial agent through agar. Molten agar Scrub Formulations (see 16.3) 7.3 Some standard textile finishing
is seeded with the test organisms and al- 4.3 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for chemicals, especially crease resistant and
lowed to become semi-solid or solid de- Sampling Design (see 16.3) permanent-press reagents, will give anti-
pending on the test specimen to be tested. 4.4 Centers for Disease Control. Bio- bacterial activity. To determine whether
The test specimen is then placed in inti- safety in Microbiological and Biomedical the antibacterial activity is due to the an-
mate contact with the agar surface. An Laboratories (see 16.4). tibacterial agent, test a specimen of the
advantage of the Agar Plate Method is same material treated in exactly the same
that a non-embedded test specimen can way with whatever other finishing agents
be removed to determine inhibition in the 5. Terminology were used, but without the antibacterial
contact area without fear of removing the 5.1 activity, n.—of an antibacterial agent.
test organism with the test sample. Both agent, a measure of effectiveness of the
gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria agent. 8. Apparatus (see 16.5)
are tested.
5.2 antibacterial agent, n.—any 8.1 Incubator maintained at 37 ± 2°C
chemical which kills bacteria (bacteri- (99 ± 4°F).
2. Purpose and Scope cide) or interferes with the multiplication, 8.2 Water bath maintained at 45-50°C
2.1 The objective is to detect bacterio- growth, or activity of bacteria (bacteri- (113-122°F).
static activity on samples that are treated ostat). 8.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent.
with antimicrobials and are capable of 5.3 zone of inhibition, n.—clear area 8.4 Stereomicroscope, minimum 40x
producing a zone of inhibition. of no visible growth of a microorganism, magnification.
2.2 Some test samples do not have a cultured onto the surface of an agar 8.5 Autoclave.
flat surface and are not easily tested using growth medium, in proximity to the bor- 8.6 Vortex or equivalent.
AATCC TM147. This method provides ders of a specimen placed in direct con-
the advantage of testing odd-shaped and tact with this agar surface.
9. Materials (see 16.5)
non-flat samples such as batting, fiber NOTE: A zone of inhibition occurs as
fill, foam, plastic, yarn, etc. by partially a result of the diffusion of an antimicro- 9.1 Bacteria species suitable for the in-
embedding them into molten agar prior to bial agent from the specimen. tended end-use of the test sample. Some

152 AATCC TM90-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
bacteria are pathogenic (i.e., capable of 12.2 Prepare the test organism by tak- 13.3 The size of the zone cannot be
infecting humans and producing disease). ing a sterilized inoculation loop and inoc- construed as a quantitative evaluation of
Take every necessary and reasonable pre- ulating separate culture tubes of the ap- antibacterial activity. Treated samples
caution to eliminate risk to laboratory propriate broth with the organism to be should be compared to a corresponding
personnel and others in the associated en- used. Incubate the cultures at 37 ± 2°C untreated sample and a sample specimen
vironment. Sterilize all contaminated (99 ± 4°F) for 18-24 h. with known bacteriostatic activity. The
samples and test materials prior to dis- 12.3 Mix the culture by vortex or criterion for passing the test must be
posal. Any or all the following bacteria equivalent method. Pipette 1.0 mL of agreed upon by the interested parties.
may be used: each challenge organism that has been in-
9.1.1 Gram-positive: Staphylococcus cubated for 18-24 h into separate 150 mL 14. Report
aureus, ATCC 6538, CIP 4.83, DSM 799, portions of sterile, molten agar main-
NBRC 13276, NCIMB 9518 or equiva- tained in a 45-50°C (113-122°F) water 14.1 Describe or identify the sample
lent strain (see 16.6). bath. An equivalent ratio would be 0.1 tested.
9.1.2 Gram-negative: Klebsiella pneu- mL of test organism to 15 mL of molten 14.2 Report that the sample was tested
moniae, ATCC 4352, CIP 104216, DSM agar. Gently swirl manually (vortexing using AATCC TM90-2022.
789, NBRC 13277, NCIMB 10341 or will cause unnecessary bubbles) to 14.3 Report the testing conditions:
equivalent strain (see 16.6). achieve even distribution of the bacteria 14.3.1 Size of test specimen used.
9.1.3 Other species agreed upon by the within the molten agar. For each organ- 14.3.2 Number of test replicates used.
interested parties. ism, aseptically transfer 15 mL of the in- 14.3.3 If the test specimen was steril-
9.2 Broths/agars; Nutrient broth/agar, oculated agar into separate petri dishes. ized prior to testing and the method of
Trypticase Soy broth/agar, Brain-Heart Allow the agar to cool to a semi-gelati- sterilization.
Infusion broth/agar, Müller-Hinton broth/ nous state for irregular test specimens 14.3.4 Agar media used.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

agar or other capable of growing and that need to be embedded in the agar for 14.3.5 Incubation time.
maintaining the chosen bacterial test intimate contact and to a solid state for 14.3.6 Organism used.
organism. flat surface regular samples. 14.4 Report the test results:
9.3 Distilled or deionized water. 12.4 Using flame-sterilized or auto- 14.4.1 Any observed zone of inhibi-
9.4 Inoculating loop. clave-sterilized forceps that have been tion.
9.5 Pipets, 1 mL, sterile. cooled, gently press the test specimen 14.5 Describe any modification(s) of
9.6 Culture Tubes with caps; minimum into the agar for embedded test speci- the published standard.
10 mL capacity, sterile mens and on top of the agar for non-em-
9.7 Petri dishes, 100 mm diam. × 15 bedded test specimens. For embedded 15. Precision and Bias
mm deep, sterile. test samples, aseptically pour additional
9.8 Forceps, sterile. seeded agar containing the same organ- 15.1 Precision. Precision for this test
9.9 Ruler. ism into the plate to achieve a depth of method has not been established. Until a
approximately 6 mm. precision statement is generated for this
12.5 Cover the plate with the Petri dish method, use standard statistical tech-
10. Sampling niques in making any comparisons of test
lid and allow the agar to solidify. Incu-
10.1 Test results are valid only when bate at 37 ± 2°C (99 ± 4°F) for 18-24 h. results for either within-laboratory or be-
the samples are statistically representa- NOTE: Care must be taken to use suf- tween-laboratory averages.
tive (see ASTM E1402). ficient agar to contact the sample, but not 15.2 Bias. The antimicrobial activity
10.2 Sampling must be random. Every to deeply embed the test specimen and can be defined on in terms of a test
unit of product must have a mathemati- obscure the observation of any zone of method. There is no independent method
cally equal chance of becoming a sample; inhibition. for determining the true value. As a
and every portion of each sample must be means of evaluating this property, the
equally likely to become a test specimen. method has no known bias.
13. Evaluation
10.3 All specimens must be alike
within the variations due to pure chance. 13.1 Examine the incubated plates for 16. Notes
There must be no differences within sam- a growth-free zone around the test speci-
men and for clearing directly beneath the 16.1 Ruehle, G. G. A. and Brewer, C. M.,
ples assignable to known causes. United States Food and Drug Administration
test sample. Avoid parallax by looking di- Methods of Testing Antiseptics and Disinfec-
rectly down on the plate bottom. If a zone tants. U.S. Dept. Agric. Circular, 198, 20pp
11. Specimens is not observed with the naked eye, then (1931).
11.1 Test specimens are cut by hand or the test samples should be placed under a 16.2 Available from AATCC, PO Box
with a die. Any convenient size can be stereomicroscope at a minimum magnifi- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
used if the material is odd-shaped. Stan- cation of 40X to detect any small zones USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
dard samples are circular with a diameter or colonies. www.aatcc.org
13.2 Calculation of zone of inhibition 16.3 Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Har-
of 2.5 cm (1 in.). bor Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Consho-
11.2 One replicate is needed. Addi- size is optional. The average width of a hocken, PA, 19428-2959, USA; Tel:
tional test specimens may be used to in- zone of inhibition on either side of the +1.610.832.9500, Fax: +1.610.832.9555, ser-
crease the precision of the average. test specimen may be calculated using [email protected].
Eq. 1: 16.4 Available from CDC. Website: https://
W = (T – D)/2 www.cdc.gov/labs/BMBL.html.
12. Procedure where: 16.5 For potential apparatus, reagents or
12.1 This test should be performed W = width of clear zone of inhibition materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s
in mm; Guide at www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides
only by trained personnel. Consult the its Corporate members the option to list their
U.S. Department of Health and Human T = total diameter of test specimen items and services. AATCC does not qualify,
Services publication Biosafety in Micro- and clear zone in mm; and or in any way approve, endorse or certify that
biological and Biomedical Laboratories D = diameter of the test specimen in any of the listings meet the specifications in its
(see 4.4). mm. standards.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM90-2022 153
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
16.6 ATCC is the American Type Culture used by agreement between the interested par- 17. History
Collection (USA), P.O. Box 1549, Manassas ties. The strains used in the test shall be docu-
VA 20108; tel: +1.703.365.2700; fax: +1.703. mented with their supply source. 17.1 Revised in 2022 to clarify and align
365.2701; web site: www.atcc.org; CIP is the 16.7 Consistent and accurate testing re- with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
Pasteur Institute Collection (France); DSM is quires maintenance of a pure, uncontaminated, 17.2 Editorially revised (with title change)
the German Collection of Microorganisms and non-mutant test culture. Avoid contamination 2019. Reaffirmed 2016. Reactivated/revised
Cell Cultures (Germany); NBRC is the NITE by using good sterile technique in plating and 2011. Revised 2010. Removed 1989. Editori-
Biological Resource Center (Japan); and transferring. Avoid mutation by strict adher- ally revised 1986, 1985, 1982. Reaffirmed
NCIMB is the National Collection of Indus- ence to monthly stock transfers. Check culture 1977. Editorially revised 1974, 1972, 1971. Re-
trial Bacteria (UK). Equivalent bacteria strains purity by making streak plates periodically affirmed 1970. Revised 1965, 1962.
obtained from agencies of the World Federa- and observing for a single species-characteris- 17.3 Developed in 1958 by AATCC Com-
tion of Culture Collection (WFCC) may be tic type of colonies. mittee RA31.

154 AATCC TM90-2022

Test Method for Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Single Sample

1. Purpose and Scope see web site: www.osha.gov for latest Determine the pH of the distilled water; if
version). In addition, the American Con- outside the range of 6-7, report the actual
1.1 This is an accelerated test method ference of Governmental Industrial Hy- pH (see 11.6).
to determine the potential damage caused gienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val- 7.2 Chlorination Solution. Prepare a
by retained chlorine. ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted chlorination solution containing 0.25%
1.2 It has been designed for use on cot- averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo- available chlorine at a pH of 9.5 ± 0.1 as
ton and rayon fabrics, but may be used on sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim- follows:
any fabric or finish that is not damaged its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen- 7.2.1 Determine the percent available
by heat alone (see 11.1). Fabrics must be eral guide for air contaminant exposure chlorine (Cl) of the sodium hypochlorite
appropriate for tensile strength testing which should be met (see 11.2). stock solution (see 11.7).
(typically woven fabrics). 7.2.2 Calculate the number of grams
5. Apparatus and Reagents (see 11.3) (g) of stock solution required to make one
2. Principle
5.1 Beakers, 800 mL. liter of a 0.25% available chlorine solu-
2.1 The fabrics are treated in sodium 5.2 pH meter (see 11.4). tion using Eq. 1:
hypochlorite solution, rinsed, dried and 5.3 Constant temperature bath (or suit- g = (1000 × 0.25)/Cl Eq. 1
pressed between hot metal plates. The able alternative means of controlling tem- where:
damaging action of the retained chlorine peratures). g = grams of stock solution required.
is calculated from the difference in ten- 5.4 Wringer, laboratory or household Cl = % available chlorine determined.
sile strength before and after pressing. type.
5.5 Heating device, providing even 7.2.3 To 900 mL of distilled water add
3. Terminology heat transfer to the specimen from the top the calculated grams (g) of stock solution
by close contact at a controlled tempera- required. Adjust the pH to 9.5 ± 0.1 by
3.1 retained chlorine, n.—in textiles the addition of either sodium bicarbonate
bleached with chlorine-type bleaches, ture and giving a pressure on the speci-
men of 8.8 g/cm2 (see Fig. 1 and 11.5). to lower the pH or sodium carbonate to
available chlorine that remains in the ma- raise it. Finally, add distilled water to
terial after washing and drying. 5.6 Tensile-strength tester.
5.7 Sodium hypochlorite stock solution make 1 L and recheck the pH.
4. Safety Precautions having an available chlorine content of
8. Procedure
approximately 5.0%.
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.8 Water, distilled. 8.1 Because many factors, such as pH,
for information purposes only. The pre- concentration and time, significantly in-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Preparation of Specimens fluence the amount of damage caused by
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- retained chlorine, it is important to fol-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.1 Normally, only warp-wise speci-
mens are tested. Cut a swatch approxi- low closely the conditions of the test.
safe and proper techniques in handling Should any deviations be necessary, in-
materials in this test method. Users mately 35.6 cm (14 in.) in the warp-wise
direction and 20.3 cm (8 in.) in the fill- clude details in the test. As a means of
MUST consult manufacturers for specific checking the test procedure, it is good
details such as safety data sheets and ing-wise direction (if testing filling speci-
mens, reverse these dimensions). Speci- practice to run, at the same time, a cotton
other recommendations. Consult and fol- fabric whose chlorine-retentive proper-
low all applicable OSHA standards and mens will be cut from this swatch after
chlorination. ties have been determined previously.
rules. 8.2 Chlorination Step.
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices. 7. Preparation of Reagents 8.2.1 Prewetting Bath. Measure into an
Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar- 800-mL beaker a volume of distilled wa-
eas. 7.1 Prewetting and Rinse Solutions. ter equal to 50 times the dry weight of
4.2 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec- 3 the fabric sample. Immerse the sample
ommendations when operating laboratory for 3 min at 71 ± 3°C (160 ± 5°F), stirring
testing equipment. frequently. Remove sample from bath, al-
4.3 Handle all chemicals with care. low to drain and cool at room temperature.
Use chemical goggles or face shield, im- 8.2.2 Chlorination Bath. Place the
pervious gloves and an impervious apron swatch in an 800-mL beaker containing
when handling sodium carbonate and so- the chlorination solution (equal to 50
dium hypochlorite bleach solutions; these times the dry weight of the fabric) that is
are corrosive chemicals. maintained at a temperature of 25 ± 1°C
4.4 Ensure an eyewash/safety shower (77 ± 2°F). Agitate the swatch frequently
is located nearby and a self-contained and gently with a glass stirring rod during
breathing apparatus is readily available the 15-min chlorination period. At the
for emergency use. end of 15 min, remove swatch, allow to
4.5 Control exposure to chemicals used drain momentarily, and pass through a
in this procedure at or below levels set by wringer to remove as much solution as
governmental authorities (e.g., Occupa- possible using care to keep the swatch
tional Safety and Health Administration’s flat and free from wrinkles. Rinse equip-
[OSHA] permissible exposure limits ment free of chlorination solution with
[PEL] as found in 29 CFR 1910.1000; Fig. 1—Heating device. distilled water to avoid contamination of

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM92-2019 155
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
specimens during the subsequent rinsing effect of wet chlorination on the fabric, as this
procedure. factor is canceled out in the calculation for
8.2.3 Rinsing. Immerse the swatch in chlorine damage. However, where it is de-
sirable to determine the effect of the wet chlo-
an 800-mL beaker containing distilled rination step, this may be calculated as
water (equal to 50 times the weight of the follows:
swatch) at a temperature of 21-32°C (70-
90°F) for 2 min, agitating the swatch gen- (Tw – Twc)/Tw × 100 =
tly and continually. Remove the swatch % tensile strength loss due to wet chlorination.
from the bath, allow to drain momen- where:
tarily, and then pass through a wringer, as Tw = average tensile strength of the wa-
before, taking all precautions mentioned ter-treated specimens, unscorched
previously. (handled as above), and
8.2.4 Repeat this rinsing procedure five Tc = average tensile strength of the orig-
(5) more times, making a total of six (6) inal fabric chlorinated and un-
Fig. 2—Specimen on heating plate. scorched.
rinses. For greater precision, rinse all
swatches separately, to avoid danger of 11.2 Available from Publications Office,
contamination. ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
9. Calculation of Damage Caused by Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240, USA; +1.
8.2.5 Drying. Air-dry swatches. Hang 513.742.2020; www.acgih.org.
Retained Chlorine
on a line or dry flat on a noncorrosive 11.3 For potential equipment information
rack, away from heat, until just dry (do 9.1 Use the formula as follows: pertaining to this test method, please visit
not press!) Transfer at once to a condi- (Tc – Tcs)/Tc × 100 = the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
tioned atmosphere at 65 ± 5% RH and 21 aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and allow to remain % loss in tensile strength due to damage of listing equipment and materials sold by its
through the scorching step and tensile caused by retained chlorine. Corporate members, but AATCC does not
strength testing. where: qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
8.3 Scorching Step. Tc = average tensile strength of chlo- tify that any of the listed equipment or
materials meets the requirements in its test
8.3.1 Prepare warp specimens by care- rinated specimens, unscorched, methods.
fully cutting five (5) strips approximately and 11.4 Any standard laboratory pH meter
35.6 × 3.2 cm (14.0 × 1.25 in.). Ravel the Tcs = average tensile strength of chlo- having suitable provision for high pH readings
strips to exactly 2.54 cm (1.0 in.) wide rinated specimens, scorched. may be used. Colorimetric methods cannot be
following ASTM D5035, Test for Break- used with NaOCl.
ing Force and Elongation of Textile Fab- 10. Precision and Bias 11.5 A pair of electrically heated hot plates
rics (Strip Test). Then trim the 35.6 cm whose temperature is accurately controlled
(14.0 in.) length to 30.5 cm (12.0 in.). 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test and which can be adjusted to provide a pres-
From this set of five 2.54 × 30.5 cm (1.0 method has not been established. Until a sure on the specimen of 8.8 g/cm2. To obtain
precision statement is generated for this the specified pressure of 8.8 g/cm2 the four (4)
× 12.0 in.) strips, make two sets (from the spring-loaded pins must contact the upper
same set of warp yarns) of 2.54 × 15.2 test method, use standard statistical tech-
housing so that they counterbalance the proper
cm (1.0 × 6.0 in.) raveled strip specimens niques in making any comparisons of test proportion of the weight of the upper housing
by cutting the strips in two. These sets results for either within-laboratory or to provide the specified pressure on the test
should be kept separate; one set is to be between-laboratory averages. specimen. Other similar devices providing
scorched, the other used as a control. The 10.2 Bias. The retained chlorine as de- identical test conditions and results may be
total conditioning time should be not less termined by tensile loss-single sample used.
than 4 nor more than 24 h. method can be defined only in terms of a 11.6 There is reason to believe that the pH
8.3.2 Prepare heating device in ad- test method. There is no independent of the prewetting and rinsing solutions may in-
method for determining the true value. fluence the results obtained in this test

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
vance so that the heating plates of the in- method. However, in view of the widespread
strument maintain a temperature of 185 ± As a means of estimating this property,
the method has no known bias. variation of pH in commercial practice,
1°C (365 ± 2°F). If necessary, to avoid air AATCC has not fixed a specific value for the
currents, enclose instrument in a cabinet. test procedure.
Make sure the two heating plates are 11. Notes 11.7 For determining the percent available
clean and in good adjustment (uniformly 11.1 Where it is suspected that either fabric
chlorine, pipette a 1.00-mL portion of sodium
in contact at all points). Scorch each strip hypochlorite solution into an Erlenmeyer flask
or finish is susceptible to damage on heating,
of one set separately (one at a time) by and dilute to 100 mL with distilled water. Add
this susceptibility can be determined by run-
placing the 2.54 × 15.2 cm (1.0 × 6.0 in.) 20 mL of 6N H2SO4 and 6 mL of 12% KI. Ti-
ning a distilled water control. That is, the fab-
trate with 0.1N sodium thiosulfate solution.
specimen in the heating device with the ric is run through the entire procedure, but
long direction of the raveled strip perpen- using distilled water in place of the hypochlo- Calculation:
dicular to the long direction of the heat- rite solution. The loss in strength due to heat
% available Chlorine =
ing plates so that it is scorched across the alone is calculated by the equation:
center of the raveled strip (see Figs. 1 and (Tw – Tws)/Tw × 100 = mL Na thiosulfate × 0.1N × 0.0355
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ × 100
2). Scorch the strips for 30 s. Check read- 1 mL × sp gr NaOCl soln
% tensile strength loss due to scorching alone.
ing of the thermometers frequently dur-
ing use. Condition the specimens again; where:
Tw = average tensile strength of the wa- 12. History
this time conditioning at least 16 h before ter-treated specimens, unscorched,
making tensile strength measurements. 12.1 Revised in 2019 to align format with
and AATCC style.
8.4 Tensile Strength. Tws = average tensile strength of the water- 12.2 Reaffirmed 1962, 1967, 1971, 1977,
8.4.1 Make tensile strength tests on the treated specimens, scorched. 1980, 1989, 1999, 2009, 2013; editorially re-
unscorched and scorched specimens and If this loss is appreciable, there is some ques- vised 1974, 1988, 1992, 2008, 2010, 2016; edi-
record the individual values. From those, tion as to whether the chlorine damage test is torially revised and reaffirmed 1985, 1994, 2004.
calculate the average tensile strength for applicable. 12.3 Developed in 1958 by AATCC Com-
each set. It is usually not necessary to determine the mittee RR35. Maintained by RA99.

156 AATCC TM92-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM93-2019

Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: Accelerotor

1. Purpose and Scope ning. Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
dations should be followed when operat-
1.1 This test method is intended for ing laboratory testing equipment.
evaluating the resistance of fabrics and 4.3 A face mask is recommended for
other flexible materials to abrasion (see operators who work regularly with the
14.1). Accelerotor to guard against inhalation of Fig. 2—Elongated S-shape rotor.
fiber dust.
2. Principle
2.1 An unfettered fabric specimen is 5. Uses and Limitations
6.6 Pinking shears and marking tem-
driven by an impeller (rotor) along a zig- 5.1 The results obtained by this method plates, or cutting dies (see 14.8).
zag course in a generally circular orbit are affected by duration; the size, shape 6.7 Brush, nylon, for cleaning Accele-
within a cylindrical chamber, so that it and angular velocity of the rotor; and by rotor chamber or small portable vacuum
repeatedly impinges on the walls and the type of liner used. These effects are cleaner for chamber and specimens.
abradant liner of the chamber while at the interrelated, and testing conditions may 6.8 Thread, size E, Type I, Class 1 or 2,
same time being continually subjected to be varied to produce different degrees of Fed. Spec. V-T-295.
extremely rapid, high velocity impacts. abrasion in a test specimen. For example, 6.9 Cotton fabric, 78 ends per in. × 76
The specimen is subjected to flexing, it may require only 2 or 3 min at 209.44 picks per in. print cloth (carded yarns) 1.2
rubbing, shock, compression, stretching rad/s (2000 rpm) with the standard offset m (46 in.) wide, about 8 m/kg (4 yd/lb),
and other mechanical forces during the rotor to produce a reasonable degree of bleached and desized, free from blueing,
test. Abrasion is produced throughout the abrasion in a delicate or fragile fabric, optical bleach or finishing materials.
specimen by rubbing of yarn against while a heavier or more durable fabric 6.10 Analytical balance accurate to
yarn, fiber against fiber, surface against may require 6 min at 314.16 rad/s (3000 ± 0.001 g.
surface and surface against abradant. rpm).
2.2 Evaluation is made on the basis of 5.2 When fabrics curl or, for other rea- 7. Test Specimens
weight loss of the specimen or grab sons, do not move about freely in the test
strength loss of the (woven) specimen chamber, testing should be discontinued. 7.1 In the absence of applicable speci-
when broken at an abraded fold line. 5.3 The results of this test should not fications, take a minimum of three speci-
Generally, flat woven fabrics may be be equated with service life. mens from each sample to be tested not
evaluated by either method. Tufted and nearer the selvage than one-tenth the
other fabrics with raised surfaces, and width of the fabric or 64 mm (2.5 in.). Se-
6. Apparatus and Materials
knit fabrics, are evaluated by the weight lect specimens that are representative of
loss method. 6.1 Accelerotor (Fig. 1; see 14.3) the whole sample to be tested.
2.3 Changes in other fabric characteris- equipped with the following parts: 7.2 Size of Specimens.
tics may also be useful for evaluating 6.1.1 Rotor, offset (elongated S-shape), 7.2.1 Method A (Evaluation by weight
abrasion resistance with the Accelerotor 114 mm (4.5 in.) (Fig. 2) (see 14.4 for de- loss)—Cut specimens of heavier or bulk-
(see 14.1). scriptions of alternate rotors). ier fabrics smaller than those of lighter
6.1.2 Collar insert, plastic, lined with fabrics to minimize variations in impact
3. Terminology 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) polyurethane foam. produced when the specimens hit the
6.2 Liner, fine abrasive, 500J grit alu- chamber wall or abradant liner. Table I is
3.1 abrasion, n.—the wearing away of minum oxide cloth (see 14.3; an alternate a guide to the relationship between fabric

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
any part of a material by rubbing against abrasive liner is described in 14.5). weight, in grams per square meter
another surface. 6.3 Neon lamp or other stroboscopic (ounces per square yard), and specimen
device. size. Specimens may be taken with the
4. Safety Precautions 6.4 Timer, automatic, accurate to ± 1 s. edges parallel to the warp and filling
6.5 White glue. (courses and wales) or on the bias.
NOTE: These safety precautions are 7.2.2 Method B (Evaluation by
for information purposes only. The pre- strength loss)—The specimen size is 100
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- × 150 mm (4 × 6 in.) with the greater
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- dimension in the direction of the yarns to
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use be broken. Take specimens with their
safe and proper techniques in handling edges parallel to the warp and filling
materials in this test method. Manufac- yarns.
turers MUST be consulted for specific 7.3 Specimen Preparation.
details such as material safety data sheets 7.3.1 Method A—Cut a specimen with
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- pinking shears or die (see 14.8). If woven
tions. All OSHA standards and rules fabric is die-cut parallel to yarns, ravel
must also be consulted and followed. 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) along each edge.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should Place the specimen on plastic sheet (to
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all protect bench top) and apply a 3.2 mm
laboratory areas. Fig. 1—Accelerotor fitted with abrasive (0.125 in.) strip of adhesive to each cut or
4.2 The door of the Accelerotor must liner over foam rubber cushion and raveled edge (Fig. 3) (see 14.4 and 14.9).
be kept closed whenever the motor is run- with 114 mm (4.5 in.) S-shape rotor. Allow the adhesive to dry at room

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM93-2019 157
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Selection of Specimen Size used as a simple stroboscope to view the
spinning rotor. With the test chamber
Weight Range Size of door closed and the neon bulb held close
of Fabricsa Specimensb to the window of the door, the rotor gives
300-400 (9-12) 95 (3.75) distinct patterns at several useful speeds.
200-300 (6-9) 115 (4.5)0 With some practice, the following pat-
100-200 (3-6) 135 (5.25) terns will be recognized: If the neon lamp
less than 100 (3) 150 (6)00. is being operated on 60 Hz AC, at 188.50
a
rad/s (1800 rpm) the rotor appears as a
Grams per square meter (ounces per square yard) stationary distinct two-bladed figure. At
b
Millimeters (inches) square
377 rad/s (3600 rpm) the hub of the rotor
appears as a stationary blur, with two
slight lobes apparent on the sides of the
temperature. hub. If the neon lamp is operated on 50
7.3.2 Method B—Cut specimens 100 × Hz AC, as in many European countries,
300 mm (4 × 12 in.) (twice the length re- the above described test patterns will ap- Fig. 4—Specimen prepared for testing
quired for the grab breaking strength pear at 157.08 and 314.16 rad/s (1500 by Method B.
test). Number each specimen at both and 3000 rpm). If the tachometer does
ends, and then cut in half. Use one half not read the appropriate speed, turn the
for a control to determine the original small screw on the dial face to correct it. Close the door, start the Accelerotor, and
grab breaking strength, and the other to 8.1.3 Stroboscope—Set the stroboscope maintain rotor speed at 314.16 rad/s (3000
determine grab breaking strength after dial at 314.16 rad/s (3000 rpm). Close the rpm) for 6 min. Replace with the second
abrading. Apply adhesive to the edges of Accelerotor door, turn the unit on, and specimen and continue until total running
the specimens to be abraded as in Method bring the speed of the rotor to a point at time is 12 min. Stop the Accelerotor and
A. Then fold each specimen perpendicu- which it appears as a stationary, two- remove the specimen. Brush or vacuum
lar to the long dimension and 50 mm (2 bladed figure. If the tachometer does not the abrasive liner to remove detritus.
in.) from one end, making it into a 100 × read 314.16 rad/s (3000 rpm), turn the 8.2.3 Reversal of Line—For greater re-
100 mm (4 × 4 in.) square. Attach the 50 small screw on its dial face to correct it. producibility, it is recommended that af-
× 100 mm (2 × 4 in.) flap with a seam 6 8.2 Liners (see 14.5). ter six test specimens have been run, the
mm (0.25 in.) from its edge to the body of 8.2.1 Installation of Liners—Place collar assembly be removed from the Ac-
the specimen (Fig. 4). Use 4 stitches to liner into collar insert and, with the fin- celerotor and reversed so that the rim
the centimeter (11 stitches per inch). gers, work liner around the insert wall which was next to the door is placed at
until it fits snugly and smoothly without the back of the chamber.
8. Accelerotor any crease. 8.2.4 Change of Liner—It is recom-
8.2.2 Break-in of Fresh Liner—Insert mended that an abrasive liner be dis-
8.1 Adjustment of Tachometer. the prepared collar insert into the Accele- carded after 12 specimens have been run.
8.1.1 Rotor—Select and install appro- rotor equipped with the selected rotor. If the liner has not been subjected to se-
priate rotor. The 114 mm (4.5 in.) offset Break in the abrasive liner by running two vere duty, it may be used for more than
rotor is standard) (see 14.4). successive 114 mm (4.5 in.) square speci- 12 tests. To check the condition of a liner,
8.1.2 Neon Lamp—To check the accu- mens of 78 × 76 finish-free cotton print determine the weight loss of finish-free
racy of the tachometer, the neon lamp is cloth (see 6.9), edged with adhesive. 78 × 76 cotton print cloth (see 6.9) at the
beginning of a series of tests and after in-
tervals of six test specimen runs. The life
of some abrasive liners can be extended
to a considerable degree by laying them
on a flat surface and scrubbing them with
the nylon brush and soapy water to re-
move finishes or other materials depos-
ited on them by some fabrics. After
washing, the liners should be thoroughly
rinsed with water and dried before their
effectiveness is rechecked.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

9. Conditioning
9.1 Let prepared specimens reach ap-
proximate moisture equilibrium in the
standard atmosphere for preconditioning
and then condition them in the standard
atmosphere for testing textiles, as speci-
fied in ASTM D1776, Standard Practice
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles.

10. Testing Procedures

10.1 Method A—Weight Loss
10.1.1 Weigh the conditioned speci-
Fig. 3—Application of adhesive (see 6.5) to pinked edges men (see 9) on an analytical balance (see
of specimen from plastic squeeze bottle. 6.10).

158 AATCC TM93-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.1.2 Set up Accelerotor with the late the percent strength loss for each pair e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.
elongated, S-shaped, offset, 114 mm (4.5 (see 7.3.2) of specimens. sdlatlas.com.
in.) long rotor, and a fine abrasion, 500J 11.3 Calculate the average for each 14.4 For special applications, pitched-blade
grit aluminum oxide cloth (see 14.4, 14.5 method. rotors 108 mm (4.25 in.), 114 mm (4.50 in.)
and 14.7). and 121 mm (4.75 in.) long and a 108 mm
(4.25 in.) offset S-shaped rotor are available
10.1.3 Crumple the test specimen and 12. Report
(see 14.8).
place it in the chamber. 14.5 For special applications, a medium
12.1 Method A—Report the average
10.1.4 Close the door (see 4), start the fine abrasive, 240J grit aluminum oxide cloth
Accelerotor and timer, and maintain ac- percent weight loss for the three test
specimens. liner is available (see 14.8). The liner is in-
curately, ± 10.48 rad/s (100 rpm), at the stalled the same way as the fine abrasive, 500J
selected speed for the desired time. The 12.2 Method B—Report the average grit aluminum oxide cloth (see 8.2).
operating speed usually is maintained at percent strength loss for the three test 14.6 Tensile strength tester as described in
314.16 ± 10.48 rad/s (3000 ± 100 rpm) specimens. ASTM D76, Standard Specifications for Ten-
for a period of time sufficient to abrade 12.3 The report must state the exact sile Testing Machines for Textiles.
the specimen substantially without tear- conditions employed; i.e., rotor speed, 14.7 By mutual agreement, the rate and
ing it; e.g., 2-6 min (see 14.7). time, size and type of rotor and type of type of abrasion produced in the Accelerotor
liner. For Method A also state the speci- may be varied by the alternate use of the
10.1.5 Stop the Accelerotor at the end
men size used. medium fine abrasive, 240J grit aluminum
of the time (± 2 s) and remove the test oxide cloth liner, the use of the shorter
specimen. S-shaped rotor or the use of one of the 0.26
10.1.6 Brush or vacuum the liner to re- 13. Precision and Bias
rad (15 deg.) pitched-blade rotors, and varia-
move detritus. 13.1 Precision. Precision for this test tions of the rotor speed from 157.08 ± 10.48 to
10.1.7 Shake or vacuum the specimen method has not been established. Until a 418.88 ± 10.48 rad/s (1500 ± 100 to 4000 ±
free of detritus. 100 rpm), but details of these must be made a
precision statement is generated for this part of the report of test results.
10.1.8 Condition the tested specimen test method, use standard statistical tech-
(see 9.1). 14.8 It is convenient to mark specimens for
niques in making any comparisons of test cutting by means of square templates made of
10.1.9 Reweigh the specimen on an an- results for either within-laboratory or metal, plastic or cardboard. If available, cut-
alytical balance to ± 0.001 g. between-laboratory averages. ting dies of appropriate dimensions may also
10.2 Method B—Strength Loss 13.2 Bias. The abrasion resistance of be used; however, die-cut specimens should
10.2.1 Perform Steps 10.1.2 through fabrics (Accelerotor method) can be de- be raveled prior to the edge sealing (see 14.9).
10.1.7. fined only in terms of a test method. 14.9 To prevent loss of specimen weight by
10.2.2 Remove stitching thread to re- There is no independent method for de- fraying, white glue is applied to the pinked or
store specimen to 100 × 150 mm (4 × 6 termining the true value. As a means of raveled edges of all specimens from a plastic
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

in.) dimensions. estimating this property, the method has squeeze bottle (see Fig. 3). The cement strip
10.2.3 Condition specimen as directed no known bias. should not exceed 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) in width.
For fabrics which have been die-cut, or cannot
in 9.1. be pinked, specimens should be raveled 3.2
10.2.4 Determine breaking strength by 14. Notes mm (0.125 in.) along each edge and adhesive
the Grab Method given in ASTM D5034, applied as above.
Test for Breaking Force and Elongation 14.1 Although they are not included as part
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test), placing the of the standard procedure, changes in such
characteristics as air permeability, light trans- 15. History
abraded fold of the test specimen parallel mission, visual appearance, hand, etc., could
to and equidistant from the jaws of the be used for evaluation, depending on the type 15.1 Revised in 2019 to clarify construction
tensile tester (see 14.6). The specimen of fabric and its intended end-use. for cotton fabric.
must break along the fold for a valid test. 14.2 For additional information see: T. F. 15.2 Reaffirmed 2016. Editorially revised
10.2.5 Determine breaking strength on Cooke, Abrasion Testing with the Accelero- and reaffirmed 2011. Editorially revised 2008.
conditioned (see 9.1) original (unabraded) tor: Reproducibility in Interlaboratory Tests, Revised 2005. Editorially revised and reaf-
(see 7.3.2) specimen. American Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 47, No. 20, firmed 2004. Editorially revised and reaf-
1958, pp679-683; H. W. Stiegler, H. E. Glid- firmed 1999. Editorially revised 1995.
den, G. J. Mandikos and G. R. Thompson, Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1994. Reaf-
11. Calculations and Evaluation “The Accelerotor for Abrasion Testing and firmed 1989. Editorially revised 1986. Editori-
Other Purposes,” American Dyestuff Reporter, ally revised 1985. Revised 1984. Editorially
11.1 Method A—Weight Loss. Calcu- Vol. 45, No. 19, 1956, pp685-700. revised 1978. Reaffirmed 1977. Reaffirmed
late the percent loss in weight for each 14.3 Available from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 1974. Revised 1966.
specimen to ± 0.1%. 3934 Airway Dr., Rock Hill, SC 29732-9200, 15.3 Developed in 1959 by AATCC Com-
11.2 Method B—Strength Loss. Calcu- tel: +1.803.329.2110, fax: +1.803.329.2133, mittee RR29. Maintained by RA99.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM93-2019 159
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM94-2020

Test Method for Finishes in Textiles: Identification

1. Purpose and Scope Analysis, 7th Edition, Elsevier, Amster- weight prior to weighing for subsequent
dam, 1966. extractions.
1.1 This test method gives basic proce- 3.10 Textile Chemist and Colorist. Vol. 7.2 Additional preparation of samples,
dures for qualitative identification of var- 21, No. 26, June 1989, p13 (see 16.1). apparatus, and reagents is described in
ious finish components present on textile subsequent sections. Read all sections to
materials. 4. Terminology ensure proper preparation and safety pre-
1.2 The method is applicable to textile cautions before starting.
fabrics, yarns or fibers. 4.1 chemical finish, n.—chemical ma-
terial other than colorants and residual 8. Solvent Extraction Procedures
2. Principle processing chemicals added to textiles to
impart desired functional or aesthetic 8.1 Extraction with various solvents is
2.1 The identification scheme may in- properties to the textile product. intended to remove as many finishing
volve any or all of the following ap- chemicals as possible in a sequential or-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

proaches: 5. Safety Precautions der. The extraction scheme presented

2.1.1 Sequential solvent extractions here (see Table I) was chosen on the basis
followed by identification of extracts by 5.1 The safety precautions specified in of solvent polarity, solubility, volatility,
infrared spectroscopy (IR), gas chroma- the method/procedure are ancillary to the economy and safety.
tography (GC), high performance liquid testing procedures and are not intended to 8.2 Use chemical goggles or face
chromatography (HPLC), thin layer chro- be all inclusive. shield, impervious gloves and an imper-
matography (TLC), mass spectrometry 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- vious apron during dispensing and mix-
(MS) or other instrumental or wet-chemi- erence applicable safety data sheets, use ing of alkalis, acids and organic solvents.
cal methods. safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- Handle concentrated acids only in an ade-
2.1.2 Direct measurement of elemen- propriate personal protective equipment quately ventilated laboratory hood. CAU-
tal or chemical species on fabric by X-ray in handling materials in this standard. TION: Always add acid to water.
fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy, infra- 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- 8.2 Changes in chemical finishes,
red reflectance spectroscopy, furnace ers for specific details such as equipment safety considerations or personal prefer-
atomic absorption (AA) spectroscopy, in- operating instructions and other recom- ences may dictate the use of other sol-
ductively coupled plasma (ICP) spectros- mendations. Consult and follow all appli- vents. The user is responsible for deter-
copy and other instrumental or wet- cable health and safety regulations (e.g., mining which finish types may be
chemical analysis methods. OSHA standards and rules). removed by each solvent.
2.1.3 Identification of specific finish- 5.4 Refer to each procedure for addi- 8.3 Some finishes may not be soluble
ing components by chemical spot tests on tional safety precautions regarding han- in any solvent. An alternate method for
the textile or extracts from textiles. dling acids, hexane and methanol flam- insoluble finishes such as fully-
mability, and reflux precautions. crosslinked polymers [e.g., some acryl-
3. Referenced Documents ics, polyurethanes, silicones and poly(vi-
6. Limitations nyl acetates)] is to dissolve all of the fi-
3.1 AATCC TM20, Test Method for brous material with a suitable solvent,
Fiber Analysis: Qualitative (see 16.1). 6.1 This test method is a flexible set of
guidelines for identification of textile fin- leaving the residue of finish for further
3.2 Analytical Methods for a Textile analysis. Refer to AATCC TM20, Table V
Laboratory, Fourth Edition, pending, ishes. Appropriate adjustments and modi-
fications will be needed as finishing (see 3.1).
American Association of Textile Chem- 8.4 Procedure. Extract a weighed tex-
ists and Colorists, Research Triangle chemicals change and as new analytical
test methods are developed. tile sample (1-10 g depending on the size
Park, NC (see 16.1). of the extractor) in sequence by the sol-
3.3 Infrared Spectra for the Identifica- 6.2 Any chemical which is on the tex-
tile prior to finishing may be present on vents in Table I, using Soxhlet reflux,
tion of Chemical Finishing Agents from beaker or pressurized solvent extractions
Textiles, Part I, ARDS-S-47, October the finished fabric and could be removed
and/or detected as finish. Warp sizes, depending on equipment availability.
1974, Agricultural Research Service, Carry out reflux procedure in a well-ven-
U.S. Dept. of Agriculture. [e.g., starches, acrylics, waxes, polyes-
ters, poly(vinyl alcohol)], dyes, dye fixa- tilated hood with an electrical heater or a
3.4 Handbook of Chemical Specialties, water bath as the heating source. Use
tives, binders, spin finishes, natural
John E. Nettles, Chapter on Textile Fiber chemical goggles or face shield, impervi-
gums, sugars, optical brighteners, and
Processing, Preparation and Bleaching, ous gloves and an impervious apron
processing chemicals (e.g., surfactants,
John Wiley & Sons, New York. when handling organic solvents.
bleach stabilizers, dye carriers, and oils)
3.5 Textile Chemist and Colorist, Vol. may be present by design or unintention- Extraction times may range from 30
5, No. 12, December 1973, p279 (see ally. A working knowledge of these min to several hours depending on the
16.1). boiling point, exchange rate, apparatus
chemicals is needed to properly detect
3.6 Walker, J. F. Formaldehyde, Rein- and identify them. Where possible, sup- and knowledge of the history of finish re-
hold, NY, 1964. plier should be consulted for further in- moval for the textile sample in question.
3.7 Feigl, F., Spot Tests in Organic formation. Dry samples completely before begin-
Analysis, 7th Edition, Elsevier, Amster- ning the next solvent in the sequence.
dam, 1966. 7. Sample Preparation After the extractions are complete, fil-
3.8 VanLoo, W. J., Jr., et al., American ter each solvent and evaporate or distill,
Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 45, 1956, p397. 7.1 Dry textile samples at 105 ± 1°C leaving the residual finish extract. The
3.9 Feigl, F., Spot Tests in Inorganic (221 ± 2°F) and desiccate to constant extract may be transferred to a weighing

160 AATCC TM94-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I techniques. Compare the sample spec-
trum with infrared spectra of known fin-
Group Solvent Polarity Index* Typical Finishing Chemicals Removed ishes. For laboratories that possess an
FTIR instrument, it is strongly recom-
1 Cold Hexanes 0.1 Oils, silicone oils mended that an in-house spectral library
2 Hot Hexanes 1.0 Oils, waxes, silicones, some softeners, ester lubricants of appropriate finishing agents be devel-
oped. For more accurate identification,
3 Methanol 5.1 Unfixed cellulose reactants, organic salts, sulfonated
organics
the spectrum of the known compound
should be obtained with the same appli-
4 Water 10.2 Unfixed cellulose reactants, urea, linear starches, cation and extraction history as the un-
poly(vinyl alcohol) known finish.
5 0.1 N Hydrochloric acid 10.2 Fixed cellulose reactants, branched starches, 9.4.2 Softeners. Quaternary ammo-
inorganic salts nium compounds, polyethylenes, polyox-
yethylene glycols, polyurethanes, poly-
*Burdick and Jackson acrylates and silicones are soluble or
NOTE: Some types of fibers may be partially dissolved by the solvents. Pre-check the fiber types to avoid errors. partially soluble in hot hexanes. Concen-
Refer to AATCC TM20 (see 3.1). trate the extract and transfer to a clean
CAUTION: Hexanes and methanol are flammable liquids and should be stored in the laboratory only in small con- ATR crystal.
tainers away from heat, open flames and sparks. These chemicals should not be used near an open flame. 9.4.3 Durable Press Reactants. Since
most durable press reactants for cellulose
can be extracted with either water or hy-
drochloric acid, this provides an alternate
pan prior to complete dryness; drying can spection by a trained analyst will quickly method for removing finishes for infrared
then be completed in an oven at 105 identify the general type of finish. Com- spectroscopy.
±1°C. puterized search-and-match capabilities Use chemical goggles or face shield,
It may be useful to neutralize the acid on many infrared systems will be helpful. impervious gloves and an impervious
extract with dropwise addition of dilute For more complete information, includ- apron during dispensing and mixing of
sodium hydroxide to avoid further degra- ing typical wavenumbers for comparison alkalis, acids and organic solvents. Han-
dation of the finish during evaporation. of spectra of textile materials, descrip- dle concentrated acids only in an ade-
The quantitative results will reflect the tions of newer techniques such as Fourier quately ventilated laboratory hood. CAU-
presence of sodium chloride in the dried transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), TION: Always add acid to water.
residue. In addition, contamination of the attenuated total reflectance spectroscopy Reflux approximately 0.2 g fabric, cut
solution by sodium carbonate from the (ATR) and primary references, refer to into small squares, for 5 min in 0.1 N
reaction of sodium hydroxide with atmo- Analytical Methods for a Textile Labora- HCl. Carry out reflux procedure in a
spheric carbon dioxide may interfere with tory (see 3.2). For representative spectra well-ventilated hood with an electrical
interpretation of subsequent infrared of chemical finishes, refer to Infrared heater or a water bath as the heating
spectra. Spectra for the Identification of Chemical source. Use chemical goggles or face
Calculate the percent extract using Eq. 1: Finishing Agents from Textiles (see 3.3). shield, impervious gloves and an imper-
9.2 FTIR spectrometers are capable of vious apron when handling organic sol-
Extract = producing high quality spectra for identi- vents.
fication and reference purposes. Other Decant the solution into a 50-mL
Weight of Residue spectroscopic techniques such as laser-
100 × -------------------------------------------------------------- (Eq. 1) round-bottom flask with 350 mg spectral
Weight of Original Fabric Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry grade KBr.
and UV-Visible spectroscopy may also be Evaporate to dryness on a rotary evap-
The percent extract, coupled with sub- utilized, if available, to further identify
sequent identification, will be useful in orator while the flask is immersed in an
the extracts. Figs. 1-6 represent infrared ice-salt bath to prevent further hydrolysis.
distinguishing true finish components spectra run on an FTIR spectrometer at a
from residual non-finishing chemicals Complete final drying over phosphorus
resolution of 4 wavenumbers of a fatty pentoxide.
that may have been left on the fabric; ester softener, a silicone softener, a dime-
e.g., natural waxes from softeners. Mix the residue with more KBr (in a
thyldihydroxyimidazolidinone (DMDHI,
Identify the extracted finish by one of 50 mg:300 mg ratio) and press into a
aka DMUG) cellulose reactant, a glyco-
the analytical techniques described be- disk.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
lated dimethyloldihydroxyethylene-urea
low. Additional information may be (DMDHEU) cellulose reactant, a tet- Obtain a spectrum and compare to that
found in Handbook of Chemical Special- rakis-(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium of known compounds, with spectra of hy-
ties, Textile Fiber Processing, Preparation chloride (or sulfate) flame retardant and a drolysates of known compounds prefera-
and Bleaching chapter (see 3.4). C-6 fluorochemical oil/water repellent, ble for accurate comparison.
respectively. Fig. 7 represents a laser-Ra- Another method of sample preparation
9. Infrared Spectroscopic Procedures man spectrum of an aqueous solution of a for identification of durable press cellu-
DMDHEU cellulose reactant using an ar- lose reactants by infrared spectroscopy is
9.1 Infrared spectroscopy offers a con- gon ion laser source. to grind finished and unfinished fabrics
venient way to identify extracted finish and pelletize the two samples with spec-
from textiles. The basis for infrared spec- 9.3 Infrared Sample Preparation. tral grade KBr. The unfinished pellet is
troscopy is the structural information 9.3.1 Techniques. Prepare finish sam- run as the background and its spectrum
about a compound that can be found from ples for infrared analysis by dissolving subtracted from the spectrum of the fin-
its infrared spectrum. Infrared absorption the extract in suitable solvent for analysis ished sample pellet. It is important to use
bands in the 4000 to 250 wavenumbers as a liquid or as a cast film on an ATR the same weights of both fabric samples
region result from specific functional crystal. to compensate for the cellulose bands.
groups in a molecule. These can be com- 9.4 Infrared Analysis. The resulting spectrum from the subtrac-
pared with spectra of finishes in pub- 9.4.1 Obtain a spectrum of the sample tion process represents the spectrum of
lished or personal libraries. Visual in- or extract prepared by one of the above the finish.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM94-2020 161
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
9.4.4 A quick alternative for acquiring These chemicals should not be used near can be an analytical tool for a variety of
infrared spectra of finishes was described an open flame. textile extracts such as surfactants, dye
in the 1972 Intersectional Technical Pa- These 3 groups of products are com- carriers, cellulose reactants, polyester oli-
per Competition presented by AATCC monly made from fatty acids and fatty gomers and, more commonly, dyes. Rea-
Rhode Island Section (see 3.5). The acid esters or their derivatives. Some of sons for utilizing TLC include small sam-
method relies on the transfer of finish by these compounds can be chromato- ple size, preliminary work for HPLC
solvent from a small rectangle of fabric graphed directly and some must be made method development or two-dimensional
placed on the surface of an ATR crystal. into derivatives to be better analyzed by separation.
The solvent is evaporated leaving a thin GC. 11.4 High Performance Liquid Chro-
film of finish residue on the crystal. Other long chain fatty compounds are matography. Several fabric finishes and
more easily analyzed after derivatization. extracts can be detected by HPLC, which
Monocarboxylic acids are esterified, usu- relies on separation of components car-
10. Direct Spectroscopic Analysis of Fabric
ally with methanol, and these methyl es- ried by a liquid phase through a column
10.1 With certain types of accessories ters, also called fatty acid methyl esters or and detection by ultraviolet (UV), refrac-
and spectroscopic techniques, it is possi- FAMEs) are analyzed as follows: Col- tive index (RI) or mass spectrometry.
ble to acquire direct spectra of both the umn: 60 m × 0.25 mm (50%-Cyanopro- Formaldehyde, resins and other auxilia-
fabric substrate and the finishing compo- pyl)-methylpolysiloxane, 0.25 µm capil- ries as well as residual chemicals from
nents on it. These techniques may include lary column, using an appropriate prior processing can be detected.
infrared reflectance with ATR and diffuse temperature program. Methanol is a 11.4.1 Formaldehyde. Formaldehyde
reflectance accessories, laser-Raman flammable liquid and should be stored in (CH2O), extracted from the fabric in wa-
spectra, electron spectroscopy for chemi- the laboratory only in small containers ter, precipitated as formaldehyde 2,4-
cal analysis (ESCA) and near infrared re- away from heat, open flames and sparks. dinitrophenylhydrazone, and analyzed by
flectance spectroscopy (NIR). In some Methanol should not be used near an liquid chromatography, is detectable at
cases, it may be possible to use comput- open flame. very low levels. For preparation of 2,4-
erized spectral subtraction techniques in Silylation, another method of derivati- DNP standards and samples, refer to the
identifying small amounts of finish on zation of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, article Optimization of the AATCC
fabric. forms non-polar, volatile, thermally sta- Sealed Jar and HPLC Methods for Mea-
ble ethers. These ethers form easily, and surement of Low Levels of Formalde-
the reactions are performed in screw- hyde (see 3.10). Fig. 8 is a chromatogram
11. Chromatographic Procedures capped vials. The column used for analy- of the 2,4-DNP derivative of formalde-
11.1 Chromatography is a useful sis is chosen according to the type of hyde using the procedure in 14.10. Instru-
method for the separation and tentative compound that was silylated. The silyl ment conditions are:
identification of some of the finishes on derivatives of glycerol and mono- and Column: C18 (reverse phase)
textile fabrics. After separation is accom- diglycerides for example, are chromato- Flow rate: 1.0 mL/min
plished, identification is made by chro- graphed on a 100% Dimethylpolysilox- Eluent: 40% water/60% acetonitrile
matographic comparison to known com- ane column, 5 m × 0.25 mm, 0.25 µm, Detector: UV at 360 nm
pounds either in pure form or after being with an appropriate temperature program. 11.4.2 Durable Press Finishes. Some
subjected to the same application and ex- Paraffin waxes, often used as softeners, cellulose reactants for durable press fin-
traction history as the unknown; identifi- lubricants, water repellents and winding ishes can be extracted with water. HPLC
cation requires comparison under at least lubricants are analyzed directly by GC. is ideal for critical comparison of durable
two different sets of chromatographic Instrument conditions for paraffin wax or press finishes. See Figs. 9 and 10 for
conditions. Alternatively, the chromato- alpha-olefin C-30+ type hydrocarbons chromatograms of representative DMD-
graphic peak of interest may be identified are: HEU and DMDHI finishes, respectively.
spectroscopically online or after isola- Column: 100% Dimethylpolysiloxane The following conditions were used:
tion. For most analyses, extracted resi- Column 15 m × 0.53 mm × 0.15 µm Column: C-18 (reverse phase)
dues or their derivatives may be analyzed Oven: 100°C to 360°C at 10°C/min for Eluent: 100% water
by GC, HPLC or TLC. Applications in- 20 min. Detector: Refractive index
cluded in this section are simple tech- Carrier: Hydrogen, 6.7 mL/min Flow rate: 1.0 mL/min
niques for use with basic GC or HPLC. Injector: Splitless at 350°C Under these conditions, other finishes
For information on more complex and di- Detection: Flame Ionization Detector including uron, triazones and glycols in
verse instruments and methods refer to (FID) (430°C) the cellulose reactant can also be identi-
Analytical Methods for a Textile Labora- 11.2.2 Polyols. Water extracts of fab- fied.
tory (see 3.2). rics may be analyzed by GC to detect eth- 11.4.3 Dyes. For identification of vari-
11.2 Gas Chromatography. Gas Chro- ylene and diethylene glycols. Glycols are ous dye classes, refer to Analytical Meth-
matography involves the separation of a frequently used with or in durable press ods for a Textile Laboratory, Chapter 6
mixture of volatile substances as they are cellulose reactants. Instrument conditions (see 3.2).
carried through a coated capillary col- are:
umn, where individual components are Column: Polyethylene glycol, 30 m ×
12. Elemental Analysis
retained for different times, depending on 0.53 mm, 1 µm
their retention in the stationary phase. Oven: 80°C to 230°C at 15°C/min for 12.1 Determination of the elemental
That differential retention is a function of 10 min content of finished textiles can be used to
volatility (boiling point) and polarity. Carrier: Helium at 6.6 mL/min indicate the presence of various finishing
11.2.1 Softeners, Lubricants, and Detector: Flame Ionization Detector agents. Increased nitrogen content on
Emulsifiers. Solvents, such as hexanes, (FID) at 325°C treatment of fabric, as determined by tra-
are used to extract softeners, lubricants Injector: Splitless at 225°C ditional Kjeldahl analysis or by instru-
and emulsifiers from fabrics. Hexanes are 11.3 Thin Layer Chromatography. mental nitrogen analyzers, can suggest
flammable liquids and should be stored in TLC is the separation of components of a the presence of durable press reactants.
the laboratory only in small containers substance by differential travel in a sol- Nonmetallic elements such as phospho-
away from heat, open flames and sparks. vent phase over an absorbent plate and rus, chlorine and bromine from flame re-

162 AATCC TM94-2020

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tardant finishes, as well as fluorine from ashing followed by atomic absorption ploying a drop of test solution or reagent
soil-release finishes, can be analyzed by (AA) analysis or inductively coupled (Table II). The chemical reaction usually
chemical digestion or oxygen flask com- plasma (ICP) analysis. X-ray fluores- results in a characteristic color or odor.
bustion followed by titration, specific ion cence (XRF) can be used to simulta- Spot test methods should be sensitive, re-
analysis or other instrumental methods. neously determine the content of many liable and capable of being conducted
Metals on fabric, such as antimony or elements directly on the fabric. satisfactorily with small sample amounts
titanium from flame retardants, magne- and simple equipment. Identification
sium, aluminum or zinc from catalysts limit is the minimum quantity of a sub-
13. Chemical Spot Tests
for durable press reactants and sodium or stance dissolved in the test solution that
potassium salts of other finishes, can be 13.1 Qualitative spot tests are detection can be detected. Spot tests are not de-
determined by acid extractions or dry methods based on chemical reactions em- signed to furnish a complete analysis of
the kind or amounts of all constituents in
a given material, but rather to determine
whether certain elements, compounds or
classes of compounds are present or ab-
Table II—Chemical Spot Tests sent. Always run a blank and a known
sample containing the substance in ques-
Substance Reagents Employed Reaction Reference tion, along with the unknown sample.
Further, repeat tests for confirmation of
Formaldehyde Chromotropic acid and sulfuric acid Purple color 3.6, 3.7 reliability.
Phenylhydrazine hydrochloride, hydrochloric Cherry red color 3.8 13.2 Several procedures are available
acid, and ferric chloride for spot tests: (1) a drop of test solution
Starch Iodine and potassium iodide in water Purple color 3.2 and a drop of reagent can be brought to-
gether on a nonporous surface; (2) a drop
Urea p-Dimethylaminobenzaldehyde in methanol Yellow color 3.2 of test solution can be placed onto a me-
and hydrochloric acid
dium impregnated with a reagent; (3) a
Zinc Dithiazone (diphenylthiocarbozone) Cherry red color 3.2, 3.9 drop of reagent can be placed on a solid
in acetone specimen; (4) a drop of reagent or a strip
Zirconium Alizarin in alcohol Red to red-violet 3.9 of reagent paper can be exposed to the ac-
precipitate tion of gases evolved from the test solu-
Magnesium Quinalizarin in methanol, and Blue precipitate 3.2, 3.9 tion or solid specimen (see Table II); and
sodium hydroxide (5) a drop of solution can be placed on a
textile and color development observed
Aluminum Aluminum and ammonium acetate Red color 3.2, 3.9 on white filter paper held beneath the
Iron Hydrochloric acid and potassium ferrocyanide Deep blue color 3.2, 3.9 specimen. For analysis of textile finish-
Hydrochloric acid and potassium thiocyanate Deep red color 3.2, 3.9 ing agents, the sample may be prepared
for one of the above treatments in several
Hydrochloric acid and heat Yellow color ways. First, the test may be carried out di-
Ammonium ion Sodium hydroxide and heat Odor of ammonia 3.2 rectly on a fabric sample with no prelimi-
Chloride ion Silver nitrate and nitric acid White to gray precipitate 3.2, 3.9 nary preparation. Second, the fabric may
be extracted with a selected solvent and
Nitrate ion Ferrous sulfate and sulfuric acid Brown ring forms 3.2, 3.9 the test carried out with the extract as the
Phosphate ion Ammonium molybdate, benzidine Blue color 3.2, 3.9 test solution. Third, the fabric (or textile
hydrochloride and ammonium acetate sample) may be destroyed by dry or wet
Sulfate ion Barium chloride and hydrochloric acid White precipitate 3.2 ashing methods, and the residue tested in
solid or dissolved form. Finally, a fusion
*Phosphorus Nitric acid and ammonium molybdate Yellow color 3.2, 3.9 method may be used for substances that
*Nitrogen Ferrous sulfate and ferric chloride Deep blue color 3.2, 3.9 form insoluble oxides on ignition. This
*Sulfur Sodium nitroferricyanide Red violet color 3.2, 3.9 method involves heating the sample with
metallic sodium or potassium.
*Chlorine Silver nitrate in water, and nitric acid White to gray precipitate 3.2
*Bromine Silver nitrate and nitric acid Yellow precipitate 3.2
Polyvinyl alcohol Chromic acid and sodium hydroxide Brown stain 3.2 14. Report
Iodine and potassium iodide and boric acid Purple color 3.2 14.1 Describe or identify the sample
Polyvinyl acetate Iodine and potassium iodide Red-brown color 3.2 tested.
14.2 Report that the sample was tested
Sodium Uranyl nitrate Yellow precipitate 3.2
carboxymethyl-
using AATCC TM94-2020.
cellulose 14.3 Report the testing conditions:
14.3.1 Extraction solvents.
Proteins Potassium hydroxide, heat, copper sulfate Violet color 3.2
14.3.2 Method of extract analysis.
Methylol Phenylhydrazine hydrochloride, hydrochloric Light pink color 3.8 14.3.3 Instrument conditions for ex-
melamine acid, and ferric chloride tract analysis.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Methylol urea Phenylhydrazine hydrochloride, hydrochloric Pale brown color 3.8 14.3.4 Other relevant testing conditions.
acid, and ferric chloride 14.4 Report the test results:
Methylol ethylene Phenylhydrazine hydrochloride, hydrochloric Deep red brown color 3.8 14.4.1 Finish or finish components de-
acid, and ferric chloride tected.
14.5 Describe any modification(s) of
*Sodium Fusion Method the published standard.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM94-2020 163
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
15. Precision and Bias 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, 17.2 Reaffirmed 2017, 2012. Editorially re-
USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; vised 2010. Reaffirmed 2007, 2002. Editori-
15.1 Precision and bias statements are www.aatcc.org. ally revised and reaffirmed 1997, 1992.
not applicable because data are not gener- Revised 1987. Reaffirmed 1985, 1977. Edito-
ated by this method. 17. History rially revised 1974. Reaffirmed 1973, 1969.
Revised 1965, 1962, 1961.
16. Notes 17.1 Revised in 2020 to update the spectra, 17.3 Developed in 1959 by AATCC Com-
revise the text in existing sections and to add mittee RA45.
16.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box new sections for clarity.

Appendix 1—Spectra

Fig. 1—Infrared spectrum of a fatty ester softener. Fig. 2—Infrared spectrum of a silicone softener.

Fig. 3—Infrared spectrum of a DMDHI Fig. 4—Infrared spectrum of glycolated

non-formaldehyde durable press reactant. DMDHEU durable press reactant.

Fig. 5—Infrared spectrum of an Fig. 6—Infrared spectrum of a C-6

organophosphorous flame retardant. fluorocarbon oil/water repellent.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

164 AATCC TM94-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Fig. 7—Laser-Raman spectrum of DMDHEU durable press finish.

Fig. 8—HPLC chromatogram of 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazone of formaldehyde.

Fig. 9—HPLC chromatogram of DMDHI durable press reactant.

Fig. 10—High performance liquid chromatogram of a glycolated DMDHEU durable press reactant.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM94-2020 165
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM96-2012e3

Test Method for Dimensional Changes in Commercial

Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool
Developed in 1960 by AATCC Committee fiber from the fleece of the sheep or lamb, (see 12.11).
RA42; revised 1967, 1980, 1988 (with hair from the Angora or Cashmere goat, 5.2 Measuring devices.
title change), 1995, 1997, 1999, 2001, rabbit hair and the specialty hair fibers 5.2.1 Indelible ink marking pen (see
2012; reaffirmed 1972, 1975, 2009; edi- from camel, alpaca, llama and vicuna. 12.4) for use with suitable rule, tape,
torially revised 1973, 1974, 1975, 1982, marking template (see 12.5).
4. Safety Precautions
1983, 1984, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 5.2.2 Tape or rule with divisions in mil-
2004, 2005, 2006, 2008, 2014, 2016, NOTE: These safety precautions are limeters or smaller increment (see 12.5).
2019; technical correction 1984; editori- for information purposes only. The pre- 5.2.3 Needle and sewing thread can be
ally revised and reaffirmed 1993. Relat- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- used to make bench marks (see 12.10).
ed to ISO 5077. dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.2.4 Digital Imaging System (see 12.12).
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.3 Materials.
1. Purpose and Scope safe and proper techniques in handling 5.3.1 Detergent, alkylarylsulfonate type,
materials in this test method. Manufac- or 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
1.1 This test method is used to deter-
turers MUST be consulted for specific gent or 2003 AATCC Standard Reference
mine the dimensional changes in woven details such as material safety data sheets
and knitted fabrics made of fibers other Liquid Detergent (see 12.6 and 12.11).
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.3.2 Hand iron, electric, steam or dry,
than wool when subjected to laundering
tions. All OSHA standards and rules weighing approximately 1.4 kg.
procedures commonly used in a commer- must also be consulted and followed.
cial laundry. A range of laundering test 6. Test Specimens
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
procedures from severe to mild is pro-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.1 Sampling.
vided to allow simulation of the various
laboratory areas. 6.1.1 Test three specimens of each
types of commercial launderings avail-
able. Five drying test procedures are estab- 4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- sample. Where possible, each specimen
lished to cover the drying techniques used. ence Detergent and the 2003 AATCC should contain different groups of length-
1.2 These tests are not accelerated and Standard Reference Liquid Detergent may wise and widthwise yarns.
must be repeated to determine dimen- cause irritation. Care should be taken to 6.1.2 Fabrics that are badly distorted in
sional changes after multiple launderings. prevent exposure to skin and eyes. their unlaundered state may give decep-
4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- tive dimensional change results when
2. Principle dations should be followed when operat- laundered by any procedure. Therefore, it
2.1 The dimensional change of woven ing laboratory testing equipment. is recommended that the specimen not be
and knitted fabric specimens subjected to 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1)
taken from such areas or, if used, the re-
washing, drying and restoration proce- sults considered as indicative only.
dures typical of commercial laundering 5.1 Apparatus. 6.1.3 In cases of dispute or litigation:
are determined by measuring changes in 5.1.1 Wash wheel of the reversing type Pre-condition test specimens as directed
bench mark distances applied to the fab- (see 12.2). in ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for
ric before laundering. 5.1.2 Flatbed press measuring 60 × 125 Conditioning and Testing Textiles, prior
cm or larger. Any flatbed press capable of to conditioning. Otherwise, condition test
3. Terminology pressing specimen 55 cm square may be specimens for at least 4 h in an atmo-
3.1 commercial laundering, n.—a used as an alternative. The flatbed press sphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ±
process by which textile products or is maintained at a temperature not less 5% RH by laying each test specimen sep-
than 135°C.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

specimens may be washed, rinsed, arately on a conditioning rack.

bleached, dried and pressed in commer- 5.1.3 Dryer of the rotary tumble type, 6.2 Size, Preparation and Marking.
cial laundering equipment, typically at having a cylindrical basket approxi- 6.2.1 The size and preparation of test
higher temperatures and pHs and longer mately 75 cm in diameter and 60 cm in specimens will vary depending upon the
times than used for home laundering. length and rotating at approximately 35 type of fabric being tested.
3.2 dimensional change, n.—a generic rpm. The dryer is provided with a means 6.2.2 For woven and warp knit fabrics
term for changes in length or width of a of maintaining a drying temperature of 60 at least 60 cm wide: Preferably, cut three
fabric specimen subjected to specified con- ± 11°C measured in the exhaust vent as 60 × 60 cm test specimens. Mark each
ditions (see also shrinkage and growth). close as possible to the drying chamber. specimen with three 46 cm pairs of bench
3.3 growth, n.—a dimensional change 5.1.4 Conditioning/drying rack with pull- marks parallel to the length of the fabric,
resulting in an increase in the length or out screen or perforated shelves (see 12.3). and three 46 cm pairs of bench marks
width of a specimen. 5.1.5 Facilities for drip and line drying. parallel to the width of the fabric. Each
3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materials, 5.1.6 Hydro-extractor, centrifugal ex- bench mark must be at least 8 cm from all
a process intended to remove soils and/or tractor of the laundry type with a perforated edges of the test specimens. Pairs of
stains by treatment (washing) with an basket, 29.0 cm deep × 51.0 cm diameter bench marks in the same direction must
aqueous detergent solution that normally with an operating speed of 1700 rpm. be approximately 15 cm apart (see Fig.
includes rinsing, extracting and drying. 5.1.7 Ballast of 92 × 92 ± 3 cm 1). Alternatively, if sample size is limited,
3.5 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional hemmed pieces of bleached cotton sheet- cut three 40 × 40 cm test specimens. If
change resulting in a decrease in the ing (Wash load ballast type 1) or 50/50 using this size, mark each specimen with
length or width of a specimen. polyester/cotton bleached and mercerized three 25 cm pairs of bench marks parallel
3.6 wool, n.—used in the generic sense, plain weave (Wash load ballast type 3) to the length of the fabric, and three 25

166 AATCC TM96-2012e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
cm pairs of bench marks parallel to the change, original measurements are not re- tially empties the wash wheel of solution
width of the fabric (see 12.7). Each bench quired. In case of narrow fabrics less than at the end of the time shown in Row A of
mark must be at least 5 cm from all edges 38 cm wide, measure and record width. Table II. Measure the time elapsed from
of the test specimens. Pairs of bench the time the wash was started in 7.2. Refill
marks in the same direction must be ap- 7. Procedure the machine to a level of 22.0 ± 1.0 cm
proximately 12 cm apart (see Fig. 1). 7.1 Table I summarizes the alternative with water at a temperature of 41 ± 3°C
6.2.3 For woven and warp knit fabrics laundering, drying and restoration proce- (106 ± 5°F). When this water level has
under 60 cm wide: Cut three test speci- dures. Details of laundering procedures been reached, inject steam, if necessary, to
mens that are each 60 cm in length and are summarized in Table II. maintain that temperature during the
the full width of the fabric. Mark each 7.2 Washing. rinse. Drain off the water at a rate that
test specimen with 46 cm bench marks 7.2.1 Place the specimens in the wash substantially empties the wash wheel at
parallel to the length of the fabric. The wheel with sufficient ballast or other fab- the end of the sum of the times shown in
bench marks should be at least 12 cm rics similar to test specimens to make a Rows A and C measured from the time
apart and at least 5 cm from the fabric 1.80 ± 0.07 kg load for Tests Ic, IIc, IIIc, the wash wheel was started. Immediately
edges. For the width direction select IVc and Vc. For Test VIc, a load consist- refill the wash wheel to a level of 22.0 ±
bench mark distances that fit within 5 cm ing of test specimens and ballast to make 1.0 cm with water at 41 ± 3°C. When the
in from the edges. Place three such bench a load of 9.0 ± 0.2 kg shall be used. Add water level has been reached, inject
marks on each test specimen in the width 66 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- steam, if necessary, to maintain that tem-
direction. Bench marks in the width di- ence Detergent or 100 ± 1 g of 2003 perature during the rinse. Drain off the
rection should be at least 15 cm apart and AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De- water at a rate that substantially empties
at least 8 cm from the top and bottom tergent (see 12.6). In soft water areas this the wash wheel at the end of the sum of
edges of the fabric (see Fig. 2). may be reduced to avoid excessive the times from the time the wash wheel
6.2.4 Flat and circular knit fabrics: Tu- sudsing. Start wash wheel and note the was started.
bular finished knit fabric samples repre- time. Immediately add water at 41 ± 3°C 7.2.4 Test IIc or Test IIIc. The wash
senting goods used in the tubular state; (106 ± 5°F) to the wheel to a level of 18.0 wheel is stopped after the second rinse wa-
i.e., underwear, sweat shirts, polo shirts, ± 1.0 cm. When this water level has been ter has drained. For the wet tumble cycle
etc., should be tested in the tubular state. reached, inject steam into the wheel until in Tests IVc and Vc, the wash wheel con-
Cut three specimens, each 60 cm in the temperature reaches that shown in tinues to run without further addition of
length. Tubular finished knit fabrics repre- Row B, Table II. This level will be in- water and is stopped 60 min from the time
senting goods used in the slit open width creased by condensed steam. the wash wheel is started. In each of the
state; i.e., dresses, slacks, suits, etc., are to 7.2.2 Test Ic. Stop the wash wheel after above operations, the draining time is in-
be slit and handled flat. After slitting fab- 15 min (Row A, Column 1 of Table II) cluded in the running time. Draining is to
ric, cut three test specimens according to and drain. Refill the machine to a level of be completed by the end of the time shown
6.2.2 or 6.2.3. Mark specimens as in 6.2.2 22.0 ± 1.0 cm with water at a temperature in Row L. The time to fill and drain the
or 6.2.3. For fabrics which will run or lad- at 41 ± 3°C (106 ± 5°F) and start the ma- wash wheel is included in the time of the
der, it is suggested that the edges be sewn chine. Inject steam, if necessary, to main- suds cycle and the two rinses in Tests IIc,
with stitch type 505 (see 12.10). tain that temperature during the rinse. IIIc, IVc and Vc, in which the machine is
6.3 Original Measurement. Stop the machine at the end of the time run continuously from the start of the test.
6.3.1 Measure by using one of the fol- shown in Row C, Column 1 of Table II. 7.2.5 Test VIc. Stop the wash wheel af-
lowing options: Repeat this procedure for the second rinse ter 10 min (Row A, Column 6 of Table II)
Option 1: Measure and record the dis- using the times and temperatures shown and drain. Refill the machine to a level of
tance between each pair of bench marks in Rows E and F, Column 1 of Table II. 22.0 ± 1.0 cm with water at a temperature
with suitable tape or rule to the nearest 7.2.3 Tests IIc, IIIc, IVc and Vc. The at 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F) and start the ma-
millimeter or smaller increments. This is machine runs continuously for the time chine. Inject steam, if necessary, to main-
Measurement A. shown in Row L of Table II. Begin to tain that temperature during the rinse.
Option 2: If using a tape or template drain off the detergent solution at the end Stop the machine at the end of the time
ruled directly in percent dimensional of the suds cycle at a rate that substan- shown in Row C, Column 6 of Table II.

46
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Fig. 2—Bench mark placement

(woven and warp knit fabrics
Fig. 1—Bench mark placement (woven and warp knit fabrics at least 60 cm wide). under 60 cm wide).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM96-2012e3 167
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Commercial Washing, Drying and Restoration Procedures ability of hand ironing procedures per-
formed by individual operators (no stan-
Tests Washing Temperatures Total Time Drying Restoration dard test method exists for hand ironing
Ic 41 ± 3°C 30 min A. Tumble 0. None procedures), the reproducibility of di-
IIc 51 ± 3°C 45 min B. Line 1. Hand Iron mensional change results after hand iron-
IIIc 63 ± 3°C 45 min C. Drip 2. Flatbed Press ing has been found to be extremely poor.
IVc 74 ± 3°C 60 min D. Screen Consequently, caution is advised when
Vc 99 ± 3°C 60 min E. Flatbed Press comparing dimensional change results af-
VIc 60 + 3°C 32 min
ter laundering and hand ironing, reported
by different operators.
7.4.2.2 Hand ironing is intended prima-
Table II—Washing Test Conditions rily for the evaluation of fabrics that require
TEST ironing after laundering. Use safe ironing
temperatures appropriate to the fibers in the
Ic IIc IIIc IVc Vc VIc fabric being ironed. See Table I, Safe Iron-
WASH ing Temperature Guide, in AATCC
(A) Suds Time (min) 15 30 30 40 40 10 TM133, Test Method for Colorfastness to
(B) Cycle Temp 40 ± 3°C 52 ± 3°C 63 ± 3°C 74 ± 3°C 98 ± 3°C 60 ± 3°C Heat: Hot Pressing. Exert only that pressure
FIRST RINSE during pressing which is necessary to re-
(C) Time (min) 5 5 5 5 5 10 move wrinkles.
(D) Temp 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 60 ± 3°C 7.4.3 Pressing, Test VIc. Cool the dry
SECOND RINSE specimen a minimum of 5 min and then
(E) Time (min) 10 10 10 10 10 3 moisten sufficiently with water to allow
(F) Temp 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 41 ± 3°C 49 ± 3°C
good pressing. Wet the specimen using a
THIRD RINSE spray nozzle set for fine mist. Let the speci-
(G) Time (min) none none none none none 3
(H) Temp 38 ± 3°C
men remain in this condition for 5 min,
smooth it to remove wrinkles without dis-
FOURTH RINSE
(I) Time (min) none none none none none 3 tortion and then press it either with a flatbed
(J) Temp 38 ± 3°C press or hand iron. Set the head of the press
WET TUMBLE or the hand iron at a temperature of 120-
(K) Time (min) none none none 5 5 3 150°C. When a hand iron is used, do not
Total Running Time slide the iron back and forth on the speci-
(L) Time (min) 30a 45b 45b 60b 60b 32a men, but simply press it down in a manner
simulating the action of a flat-bed press.
a
b
Machine is stopped between cycles. 7.4.4 After hand ironing or pressing,
Machine operates continuously. Because the machine runs continuously from the start of the test, the time to fill pre-condition (see 6.1.3) and then condi-
and drain the machine is included in the time of the suds cycle and the two rinses in Test IIc, IIIc, IVc and Vc.
tion specimens for at least 4 h by laying
each specimen separately on the screen or
perforated shelf of a conditioning rack in
This procedure is repeated for the second, tracted specimen on a horizontal screen an atmosphere at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and
third and fourth rinses using the times and or perforated surface, removing wrinkles 65 ± 5% RH.
temperatures shown in Rows E-J, Column but not distorting or stretching, and allow 8. Measurement and Evaluation
6 of Table II. to dry in still air at room temperature.
7.3 Drying. 7.3.6 (E) Flatbed Press Dry. Smooth 8.1 After conditioning, lay each test spec-
7.3.1 The specimens may be dried by the extracted specimens to remove wrin- imen without tension on a smooth, horizon-
any one of the five procedures shown in Ta- kles, without distorting or stretching, and tal surface and determine dimensional
ble I (see 12.8), except for Test VIc, use press dry on the flatbed press according change by one of the following options:
procedure A only (Tumble Dry). The to the following cycle: Option 1: Measure and record the dis-
choice of drying procedure should be gov- (a) Five s steam with head up. tance between each pair of bench marks
erned by the intended end-use of the fabric. (b) Five s dry hot press with head down to the nearest millimeter, 0.1 in. or smaller

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
For drying procedures A, B, D and E, re- with steam at a temperature of 148 ± 3°C increment. This is Measurement “B.”
move the load from the wash wheel and (299 ± 5°F). Option 2: If using a scale marked in per-
centrifuge the load for a minimum of 3 min. (c) Five s vacuum, steam off, head down. cent dimensional change, measure to near-
7.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the ex- (d) Five s vacuum, steam off, head up. est 0.5% or smaller increment and record
tracted load in a tumble dryer at 60 ± 7.4 Conditioning and Restoration. the percent dimensional change directly.
11°C (140 ± 15°F) for 30 min or until dry. 7.4.1 After the completed washing and 8.2 The wrinkles in most fabrics flatten
7.3.3 (B) Line Dry. Hang each ex- drying intervals, precondition (see 6.1.3) sufficiently under pressure of the measur-
tracted specimen by two corners with the and condition specimens for at least 4 h ing instrument at the time of measure-
fabric length in the vertical direction. Al- by laying each specimen separately on a ment not to cause measurement bias.
low the test specimens to hang in still air conditioning rack in an atmosphere of 21 9. Calculations
at room temperature until dry. ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH.
7.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Remove the non- 7.4.2 Hand Iron. If the specimens are 9.1 Using Distance Measurements.
extracted specimens from the wash wheel wrinkled and the appearance is such that 9.1.1 Calculate the dimensional change
and hang by two corners, with the fabric the consumer would expect to iron the after the first and fifth cycle for each
length in the vertical direction. Allow the garment made from the sample material, specimen to the nearest 0.1%, using the
test specimen to hang in still air at room test specimens may be ironed prior to re- following equation, or other specified
temperature until dry. This procedure is measurement of the distance between number of washing and drying cycles, as
preferable for durable press fabrics. bench marks. follows (see 12.10):
7.3.5 (D) Screen Dry. Spread each ex- 7.4.2.1 Due to the extremely high vari- % Dimensional Change = (B – A) × 100/A

168 AATCC TM96-2012e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
where: Table III—Within-Laboratory 643.7443. Rack drawings are available from
A = the average of the three original Critical Differences AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
measurements for the lengthwise % Shrinkage—95% Probability Level Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
or widthwise direction in the +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
N SE CD org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
specimen. 12.4 Marking pens are available from
B = the average of the three measure- 1 0.165 0.462
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
ments after cycle completed for 3 0.095 0.266 Park NC 27709; tel: +1. 919.549.8141; fax:
the lengthwise or widthwise direc- 5 0.074 0.207 +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
tion of the specimen. 7 0.062 0.174 org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
9.1.2 Calculate the average lengthwise 12.5 A ruled template marked in percent
N = Number of determinations per average
dimensional change is available from
and widthwise percent dimensional change SE = Standard Error for N determinations
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
for all specimens. CD = 2.8 SE
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
9.2 Using Dimensional Change Scale. +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
9.2.1 Average the scale measurements org; web site: www.aatcc.org. A mechanical
Table IV—Within-Laboratory
for each direction of each specimen to the marking device and measuring tape marked in
Critical Differences percent dimensional change is available from
nearest 0.1%.
% Shrinkage—95% Probability Level Benchmark Devices Inc., 3305 Equestrian
9.2.2 Average the scale measurements
for each direction of all specimens. Trail, Marietta GA 30064; tel: +1.770.795.
N SE CD 0042; fax: +1.770.421.8401; e-mail: bmarkers@
10. Report 1 0.143 0.399 bellsouth.net.
3 0.082 0.230 12.6 The 1993 AATCC Standard Reference
10.1 Report for each sample tested: 5 0.064 0.178 Detergent or 2003 AATCC Standard Reference
10.1.1 Dimensional change of both 7 0.054 0.150 Liquid Detergent is available from AATCC,
length and width, separately (see 9.1.2). P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park
10.1.2 Washing procedure (Roman nu- NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
meral), drying procedure (capital letter) as determined by analysis of variance. 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web
and restoration procedure (Arabic nu- Two averages of obtained values site: www.aatcc.org.
meral) from Table I; i.e., I,E,1 means should be considered significantly differ- 12.7 Dimensional change results obtained
Wash Procedure I, Flatbed press dry, and ent at the 95% probability level if the dif- with the 50 cm bench marks may not be equal
ferences equals or exceeds the critical to those obtained with 25 cm bench marks.
tension presser restoration. Indicate size 12.8 An alternative drying procedure, not to
of load; i.e., 1.8 kg. differences listed in Tables III and IV.
be used for referee tests, is as follows: remove
10.1.3 Number of complete washing 11.3 Bias. The values derived by this pro- the specimens from the wash wheel and
and drying cycles. cedure can be defined only in terms of a test squeeze out the excess water by hand, without
10.1.4 If fabrics are visibly distorted in method. There is no independent, referee wringing, twisting or passing through squeeze
unlaundered state. test method by which bias may be deter- rolls. Spread each specimen on a horizontal
10.1.5 Restoration procedure, if any. mined. This test method has no known bias. screen or perforated surface, removing wrin-
10.1.6 Alternate size specimens and kles but not distorting or stretching and allow
12. Notes to dry in still air at room temperature. Dampen
bench marks, if used. the specimen with water, allow to stand for
12.1 For potential equipment information
10.1.7 The detergent used. 5 min, then press dry on the flatbed press as
pertaining to this test method, please visit
10.1.8 Any modification to the test. the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. directed in 7.3.6.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 12.9 If information on the dimensional
11. Precision and Bias change variability within or between speci-
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
11.1 Precision. Corporate members, but AATCC does not mens is needed, calculate dimensional change
11.2 Single-Laboratory Study. Six wo- qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- based on the individual pairs of bench marks
ven fabrics were tested in one laboratory, tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- for within specimen data or based on the aver-
using one operator to determine dimen- als meets the requirements in its test methods. age of the three pairs of bench marks for be-
12.2 The wheel (cage) is 56 ± 5 cm inside tween specimen data.
sional stability on three different speci- 12.10 ASTM D6193, Standard Practice for
diameter and 56 ± 5 cm inside length. There
mens by using Test VIc, Tumble Dry. Stitches and Seams, available from ASTM In-
are three fins, each approximately 7.5 cm
Three specimens were taken from each high, extending the full length of the inside of ternational, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Consho-
fabric sample and three measurements the wheel. A fin is located every 120° around hocken PA 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9585; fax:
were made in each specimen in both the the inside diameter of the wheel. The wash +1.610.832.9555; web site: www.astm.org.
warp and filling directions. This single- wheel rotates at a speed of 30 ± 5 rpm, making 12.11 The AATCC Technical Center con-
laboratory data set was analyzed and used 5-10 revolutions before reversing. The water ducted a study to compare the 1993 AATCC
in writing a temporary precision state- inlets are large enough to permit filling the Standard Reference Detergent 124 and two
ment, pending a full interlaboratory wheel to 0.3 cm level in less than 2 min and different types of ballast fabrics (current and
study. Until the full study is completed, the outlet is large enough to permit discharge proposed), under the following test conditions:
users of the test method are advised to ex- of the same amount of water in less than 2 Machine cycle: (1)—Normal/Cotton Sturdy
min. The machine is equipped with a pipe, for Washing Temp: (V)—60 ± 3°C
ercise conventional statistical caution in injecting live steam, that is capable of raising
making any comparisons of test results. Drying Procedure: (A)i—Tumble dry, cotton
the temperature of water at a 19.3 cm level sturdy cycle
The variances for the warp and filling di- from 38-60°C (100-140°F) in less than 2 min.
rections were analyzed as follows: Fabrics tested: White Twill (100% cotton)
The machine shall contain an opening for the
Beige Twill (100% cotton)
11.2.1 Warp. Variances for the warp di- insertion of a thermometer or other equivalent
Gray Poplin (100% cotton)
rection ranged in value from 0.012 to equipment for determining the temperature of
the water during the washing and rinsing pro- Blue Twill (50/50 poly/cotton)
0.048, with an average value of 0.027%
(standard deviation = 0.165%), as deter- cedures. It is equipped with an outside water No significant differences were found in the re-
gauge that will indicate the level of the water sults using either detergent or ballast load fabrics.
mined by analysis of variance. in the wheel. 12.12 A digital imaging system may be
11.2.2 Filling. Variances for the filling 12.3 Screen or perforated conditioning/dry- used as a measuring device in place of the pre-
direction ranged in value from 0.0025 to ing racks are available from Somers Sheet scribed manual measurement devices if it is
0.0800, with an average value of Metal Inc., 5590 N. Church St., Greensboro established that its accuracy is equivalent to
0.0203% (standard deviation = 0.143%), NC 27405; tel: +1.336.643.3477; fax: +1.336. the manual devices.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM96-2012e3 169
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM97-2020

Test Method for Extractable Content of Textiles

1. Purpose and Scope Governmental Industrial Hygienists the weighing bottle in a desiccator. Weigh
(ACGIH) Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) the bottle and specimen to the nearest 0.1
1.1 This test method is for determining comprised of time weighted averages mg (see 11.4).
the amount of water, enzyme and or- (TLV-TWA), short term exposure limits 7.2 Water Extraction. Remove the
ganic-solvent extractable matter of fibers, (TLV-STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) dried specimen from the bottle and place
yarns or fabrics containing cellulosic fi- are recommended as a general guide for it in a beaker containing 200 mL of dis-
bers and blends of cellulose and other fi- air contaminant exposure which should tilled or deionized water at 82 ± 3°C (180
ber types in their greige and/or prepared be met (see 11.2). ± 5°F). Cover the beaker with a watch
state of processing. glass. Maintain the temperature of the
water at 82 ± 3°C (180 ± 5°F) for 2 h.
5. Apparatus (see 11.3) Pour the solution and specimen into the
2. Principle
5.1 Analytical balance with a sensitiv- sieve and rinse the specimen, washing
2.1 Water and enzyme soluble non-fi- ity of 0.1 mg. with two successive 100 mL portions of
brous matter is removed from a test spec- 5.2 Circulating air oven capable of distilled water at 82 ± 3°C (180 ± 5°F).
imen by specified exposure to hot water, maintaining 105-110°C (221-230°F). Recover any loose fibers on the sieve and
followed by an amylase solution. Oils, fold them into the specimen. Return the
5.3 Soxhlet extraction assembly (Op-
fats and waxes are removed by hexanes specimen to its bottle and dry it to a con-
tion 1).
solvent extraction (see 5.11 and 11.1). stant weight as specified in 7.1. Deter-
5.4 Accelerated Solvent Extractor, 22
mine the amount of water extractable
mL cell and glass beads (Option 2) (see
matter as the difference in the specimen
11.3). (Liquid Nitrogen with gaseous
3. Terminology weights obtained in 7.1 and 7.2 using the
withdrawal has to be supplied to the in-
equation in 8.1.
3.1 extractable matter, n.—nonfi- strument).
7.3 Enzyme Extraction. Remove the
brous material in or on a textile substrate, 5.5 Glass weighing bottles with covers. dried specimen from the water extraction
not including water, which is removable 5.6 Extraction thimbles, cellulose. procedure (see 7.2) from the bottle and
by water, enzyme or a specified solvent 5.7 Beakers, 300 mL, tall-form. place in a beaker containing 200 mL of a
or solvents as directed in a specified pro- 5.8 Watch glasses, 90 mm (sized to 2% bacterial amylase solution at 74 ±
cedure. cover 300 mL tall form beakers). 3°C (165 ± 5°F) for 1 h. Pour the solution
5.9 Sieve, stainless steel, 100-mesh. and specimen into a sieve and rinse the
5.10 Calcium chloride (CaCl2) or specimen by washing with 10 successive
4. Safety Precautions equivalent desiccant. 100 mL portions of distilled water at 82 ±
5.11 Hexanes, extraction grade (Hex- 3°C (180 ± 5°F). Recover any loose fi-
NOTE: These safety precautions are anes are a blend of hexane isomers. More
for information purposes only. The pre- bers on the sieve and fold them into the
refined grades, such as HPLC, are expen- specimen. Return the specimen to its bot-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- sive and may be unnecessary for this test
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- tle and dry to a constant weight as speci-
method). fied in 7.1. Determine the amount of en-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.12 Bacterial amylase, bacillus subti-
safe and proper techniques in handling zyme extractable matter as the difference
lis origin, 1600-1800 B.A.U. [see in the weights obtained in 7.2 and 7.3 us-
materials in this test method. Users AATCC TM103, Test Method for Bacte-
MUST consult manufacturers for specific ing the equation in 8.1.
rial Alpha-Amylase Enzymes used in De-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
details such as safety data sheets and 7.3.1 If an extraction thimble has not
sizing]. been exposed to hexanes, it is recom-
other recommendations. Consult and fol- 5.13 Laboratory fume hood.
low all applicable OSHA standards and mended that it should be subjected to a
rules. Soxhlet extraction before use with a test
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices. specimen to remove possible contami-
6. Sampling nants.
Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas.
4.2 Handle all chemicals with care. 6.1 Take one 10 g specimen from each 7.4 Oils, Fats and Waxes (select one of
sample. If the sample is a woven fabric, the following options).
4.3 Store hexanes in the laboratory 7.4.1 Option 1 (Soxhlet procedure).
only in small containers away from heat, cut on the bias to minimize loose fibers or
yarns. Place the dried specimen from the water
open flames and sparks. Do not use hex- and subsequent enzyme extractions (see
anes near an open flame. 6.2 For improved accuracy, test dupli-
cate specimens from each sample. 7.2 and 7.3) in a Soxhlet extractor. If the
4.4 Ensure an eyewash/safety shower specimen contains loose, fibrous mate-
is located nearby and an organic vapor rial, then use an extraction thimble. Ex-
respirator should be available for emer- 7. Procedure tract for 12-16 times with hexanes (see
gency use. 11.1). Remove the specimen from the ex-
4.5 Control exposure to chemicals used 7.1 Specimen Preparation. Place the tractor and evaporate the remaining hex-
in this procedure at or below levels set by specimen in a tared weighing bottle being anes on the specimen in a laboratory
governmental authorities (e.g., Occupa- careful to fold the edges of the specimen fume hood. Return the specimen to the
tional Safety and Health Administration’s to prevent the loss of any fiber or loose weighing bottle. If a thimble is used, re-
[OSHA] permissible exposure limits yarn. Dry to a constant weight (see move the specimen from the thimble
[PEL] as found in 29 CFR 1910.1000; AATCC TM20A, Test Method for Fiber prior to placing in the weighing bottle.
see www.osha.gov for latest version). In Analysis: Quantitative) in a circulating Return the specimen to its bottle and dry
addition, the American Conference of air oven at 105-110°C (221-230°F). Cool to a constant weight as specified in 7.1.

170 AATCC TM97-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Determine the amount of solvent ex- 9.2.1 The percent of matter from en- based on the small study size and the re-
tracted matter as the difference in the zyme extraction procedure. sults of the single-material computations.
specimen weights obtained in 7.3 and 7.4 9.2.3 Report total extracted matter. Variance components reported here were
using the equation in 8.1. estimated using ASTM D2904-97, An-
7.4.2 Option 2 (Accelerated solvent ex- nex A1. Details on the data and analysis
tractor procedure). Extract the dried spec- 10. Precision and Bias can be obtained by contacting the
imen using the following conditions with 10.1 Interlaboratory Study. A limited AATCC Technical Center. Precision is
an accelerated extractor. study was conducted in 2005 to estimate reported in terms of critical differences.
the precision of the Soxhlet and acceler- Calculations outlined in ASTM D2906-
Cell size — 22 mL (see 11.3) 97 (2002) were used to compute the one-
ated solvent extraction procedures and
Heat — 5 min their relative bias. The study consisted of sided critical differences between two
Static — 15 min three laboratories, three fabrics and two means for sample sizes.
Flush Volume — 90% operators per laboratory. The fabrics used 10.1.2 Variance Components, Soxhlet
Purge — 90 s included a 100% cotton bleached fabric, Procedure. The variance components cal-
Cellulose filter a 50/50 cotton/polyester greige fabric and culated for the Soxhlet procedure are re-
Temperature — 100°C a 100% cotton greige fabric. An acceler- ported in Table II. All metrics reported in
Pressure — 1500 ated solvent extractor made by Dionex this section are in units of% of total ex-
Solvent — Hexanes Corporation, Sunnyvale, California was tracted content.
Cycles — 3 used in the study. Two determinations 10.1.3 Critical Differences—Soxhlet
Glass Beads were conducted by each operator for each Method. The 95% critical differences cal-
combination of test procedure and fabric. culated for the Soxhlet method are shown
Air dry the specimen, then return it to the Averages and standard deviations for to- in Table III.
weighing bottle and dry to a constant tal extractable content are shown in Table 10.1.4 The variance components for
weight as specified in 7.1. Determine the I. Based on the limited data set on which the accelerated solvent extraction proce-
amount of solvent extracted matter as the this precision and bias statements have dure are reported in Table IV.
difference in the specimen weights ob- been made, users are cautioned when 10.1.5 The subsequent 95% critical dif-
tained in 7.3 and 7.4 using Eq. 1. making critical decisions. ferences estimated for the accelerated
10.1.1 Analysis. The analyses used in solvent procedure are shown in Table V.
8. Calculations this precision and bias statement are 10.2 Bias. The amount of extractable
based on an analysis of all fabrics within matter on a textile material is dependent
8.1 Calculate to two (2) decimal places each extraction method. The decision to on the extraction procedure used. There-
the matter extracted from each specimen conduct the all-fabric analysis was made fore, it is not possible to determine abso-
by water, enzyme or solvent using Eq. 1:

E = [(B-A/X](100) (Eq. 1)
Table I—Average Values of Total Content (Reported in Percent)
where:
E = the material extracted by water, Method Material Mean Std. Dev. n
enzyme solution or organic
solvent, %, Accelerated Bleached Cotton 0.412 0.113 12
B = the mass of the specimen before Soxhlet Bleached Cotton 0.429 0.060 12
Accelerated 50/50 Cotton/Poly 2.615 0.190 12
the particular extraction, g,
A = the mass of the specimen after Soxhlet 50/50 Cotton/Poly 2.669 0.057 12
the particular extraction, g, and Accelerated 100% Cotton 8.127 0.267 12
X = the mass of the oven-dried speci- Soxhlet 100% Cotton 8.066 0.362 12
men before the first extraction, g.

8.1.1 If the extracted matter for any of Table II—Estimated Components of Standard Deviation for the Soxhlet Procedure
the three extractions is less than 0.02%, Variance Component Estimated Standard Deviation
record the value for that extraction as L 0.000
“less than 0.02%.” M-L Interaction 0.000
8.2 Determine the total extractable O within L 0.000
content for each specimen as the sum of M-O Interaction within L 0.242
the water, enzyme and solvent extraction S within Combination of M, O and L 0.081
procedures. Those values reported as
“less than 0.02% are arbitrarily added in where:
as 0.01%. L = Laboratories
M = Materials (fabrics)
O = Operators
9. Report S = Test Specimens

9.1 Report:
9.1.1 Data reported is from the use of Table III—Estimated 95% Critical Differences for the Soxhlet Procedure
AATCC TM97-2019.
9.1.2 Report any deviations from the Within Operator Within Lab Between Lab
procedure(s) used. Samples per Mean Critical Differences Critical Difference Critical Difference
9.1.3 Report the brand and model of 1 0.225 0.706 0.706
the extraction device used. 2 0.159 0.688 0.688
9.2 The percent of matter from water 3 0.130 0.682 0.682
extraction procedure. 4 0.112 0.679 0.679

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM97-2020 171
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Estimated Components of Standard solvent) is used, note the solvent on the test re-
Deviation for the Accelerated Solvent Extraction Procedure port.
11.2 Available from Publications Office,
Variance Component Estimated Standard Deviation ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
L 0.121 Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240;
M-L Interaction 0.000 +1.513.742.2020; www.acgih. org.
11.3 For potential equipment information
O within L 0.080
pertaining to this test method, please visit the
M-O Interaction within L 0.018 online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
S within Combinations of M, O and L 0.134 aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
Table V—Estimated 95% Critical Differences qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
for the Accelerated Solvent Extraction Procedure tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
als meets the requirements in its test methods.
Within Operator Within Lab Between Lab If the volume of fabric is too great for the 22
Samples per Mean Critical Differences Critical Difference Critical Difference mL cell, a larger cell size is recommended.
1 0.371 0.488 0.591 11.4 Synthetic fibers sensitive to drying
2 0.263 0.411 0.530 conditions in 7.1 will not yield accurate data
3 0.214 0.382 0.508 by this test method. Since this test method is
based on differential weighing, such fiber de-
4 0.186 0.367 0.496
composition would lead to erroneous results.

12. History
lute bias of these test procedures against for their specific applications and testing
12.1 Revised in 2020 to clarify the Safety
an absolute value. situation. requirements.
10.2.1 Relative Bias. The data gener- 12.2 Revised in 2019 to align with AATCC
ated in this study was used to check for 11. Notes style.
relative bias between the two extraction 12.3 Reaffirmed 2013. Editorially revised
methods. There was no indication of a 11.1 Alternative or additional solvents may 2010. Revised (with title change) 2009. Re-
consistent bias between the methods. be used in lieu of hexanes for removal of oils, vised 1999. Revised 1995. Editorially revised
fats and waxes; however, other such solvents 1993. Reaffirmed 1989. Reaffirmed 1988. Ed-
However, there were specific instances have not been evaluated by the RA34 commit- itorially revised 1987. Revised (with title
where bias was observed between meth- tee. Therefore, no statement on the reliability change) 1982. Revised 1979. Reaffirmed
ods within a laboratory for a specific fab- or reproducibility regarding the use of other 1975. Reaffirmed 1972. Reaffirmed 1968.
ric. Laboratories should verify them- solvents can be made at this time. If a different 12.4 Developed in 1960 by AATCC Com-
selves if bias exists between procedures solvent other than hexanes (or an additional mittee RA34.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

172 AATCC TM97-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM98-2022

Test Method for Alkali in Bleach Baths Containing Hydrogen Peroxide

1. Purpose and Scope 4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should with deionized water.
be located nearby and a high efficiency 7.1.3 Weigh 20.4080 ± 0.0002 g potas-
1.1 This test method determines the particulate respirator with organic vapor sium acid phthalate (National Bureau of
total alkali content of a bleach bath con- cartridge and full facepiece should be Standards sample No. 84) and dissolve it
taining hydrogen peroxide and alkali readily available for emergency use. in approximately 100 mL deionized wa-
from any source. The total alkali content 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this ter in a 250 mL beaker. Transfer the solu-
is expressed as % sodium hydroxide. procedure must be controlled at or below tion to a 1 L volumetric flask, and rinse
1.2 Alkali in bleach baths may be sup- levels set by governmental authorities the beaker 5 times with deionized water,
plied by sodium hydroxide, sodium sili- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health adding the rinses to the volumetric flask.
cate, sodium carbonate or by various Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- Dilute to mark with deionized water.
other alkaline materials, including potas- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
sium compounds, ammonia, lime or by 7.1.4 Using a volumetric pipette, trans-
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov fer 25 mL of the potassium acid phthalate
peroxygen solids which contain alkaline for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
salts. solution into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask.
can Conference of Governmental Indus- Add 5 drops of 0.06% Phenol Red indica-
1.3 The alkali content of a bleach bath trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
is a critical parameter in determining the tor solution and titrate with the sodium
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time hydroxide solution to a greenish-yellow
rate and extent of bleaching and may also weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
determine the extent to which the textile end-point, or to pH 7.6 ± 0.8 if using a
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and pH meter to detect the end-point.
being bleached is affected by the bleach- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
ing process. 7.1.5 Calculate the normality of the so-
as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
1.4 This test method is used for labora- dium hydroxide solution (Nh) to the near-
posure which should be met (see 12.1).
tory determinations and for process control. est 0.001 by the following equation:
5. Apparatus and Materials ( 25 ) ( 0.1000 )
2. Principle N h = --------------------------------
5.1 Potassium acid phthalate (C8H5O4K), mL
2.1 A weighed specimen of the bleach ACS Reagent.
bath is titrated with a standardized solu- 5.2 Phenol Red (phenol-sulfonphtha- where:
tion of sulfuric acid to a Phenol Red end- lein), or 0.06% solution thereof, if a pH mL = the number of mL of sodium
point, or to the pH range 6.8-8.4 on a pH meter is not used as an alternative. hydroxide solution required.
meter. The total alkali, expressed as % 5.3 Methanol (CH3OH) (not needed if
NaOH, is calculated based on the weight 0.06% Phenol Red solution is available). 7.1.6 Using a volumetric pipette, trans-
of the bath. 5.4 Sulfuric acid (0.1N) (H2SO4), ACS fer 25 mL of the sulfuric acid solution
Reagent, 95-98%, or 0.1N (see 7.1 and (see 9.1) into a 250 mL Erlenmeyer flask.
3. Terminology 12.2). Add 5 drops of 0.06% Phenol Red indica-
5.5 Sodium hydroxide (NaOH), ACS tor solution and titrate with the sodium
3.1 bleaching, n.—elimination of un- Reagent. hydroxide solution to a greenish-yellow
wanted coloring matter from a substrate by end-point, or to pH 7.6 ± 0.8 if using a
oxidative or reductive chemical treatment. pH meter to detect the end-point.
6. Specimens
7.1.7 Calculate the normality of the
4. Safety Precautions 6.1 Obtain a 10 ± 0.01 g specimen sulfuric acid solution to the nearest 0.001
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

from the bleach bath. (see 8.2 and 12.3) by the following equation:
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The safety 7. Preparation of Reagents ( mL ) ( N h )
precautions are ancillary to the testing N s = -----------------------
-
( 25 )
procedures and are not intended to be all 7.1 Preparation and standardization of
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to 0.1N H2SO4 (see 12.2). where:
use safe and proper techniques in han- 7.1.1 For each liter of 0.1N H2SO4 so-
dling materials in this test method. Manu- Ns = normality of the sulfuric acid
lution to be prepared, weigh 5.5 ± 0.001 g
facturers MUST be consulted for specific solution
C.P. sulfuric acid and add it to 500 ± 100
details such as safety data sheets and mL deionized water with stirring. CAU- mL = number of mL of sodium hy-
other manufacturer’s recommendations. TION: Dilution of sulfuric acid is exo- droxide solution
All OSHA standards and rules must also thermic. Use appropriate safety precau- Nh = normality of the sodium hydrox-
be consulted and followed. tions. Cover the solution and allow it to ide solution
4.1 Good laboratory practices should cool to 20 ± 1°C (68 ± 2°F). Add the so-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all lution to a 1 L volumetric flask, and di- 7.1.8 Adjustment of normality of sulfu-
laboratory areas. lute to mark with deionized water. ric acid solution.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 7.1.2 Weigh 4.0 ± 0.01 g sodium hy- 7.1.8.1 If the normality of the sulfuric
with care. Sulfuric acid is corrosive. droxide and dissolve it in about 100 mL acid solution is less than 0.0990, discard
When preparing the dilute solutions from deionized water in a 250 mL beaker. it and make up a new solution.
pure or concentrated reagents, use chemical Transfer the solution to a 1 L volumetric 7.1.8.2 If the normality of the sulfuric
goggles or face shield, impervious gloves, flask, and rinse the beaker 5 times with acid solution is greater than 0.1010, ad-
and an impervious apron. CAUTION: deionized water, adding the rinses to the just it by adding an amount of water cal-
Always add acid to water. volumetric flask. Then dilute to mark culated using the following equation:

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM98-2022 173
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
( N ) ( 950 ) N = the normality of the sulfuric chemical additions. However, the con-
mL H 2 O = ----------------------- – 950 acid solution, as determined in centration of alkali can be defined only in
0.1000
7.1.7. terms of a test method, and within this
where: 0.040 = the milliequivalent weight of limitation this method has no known bias
N = the normality of the sulfuric sodium hydroxide. in the determination of alkali concentration.
acid solution W = the mass of the specimen, as
950 = mL sulfuric acid solution after determined in 8.2. 12. Notes
removal of two samples for
titration. 9.2 For alternative calculations see 12.4. 12.1 Available from Publications Office,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330
7.1.8.3 Re-standardize the adjusted Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240;
10. Report tel: +1. 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
sulfuric acid solution using 7.1.6 and 12.2 Standardized solutions of sulfuric acid,
7.1.7. 10.1 Describe or identify the sample
sodium hydroxide, and Phenol Red indicator
7.2 If the indicator solution is prepared bleach bath. are available from various laboratory supply
in-lab, preparation of 0.06% Phenol Red 10.2 Report that sample was tested us- companies in either prepared solution or as
indicator solution (see 12.2). ing AATCC TM98 2022. concentrates. Standardization of purchased re-
7.2.1 Weigh 1.0 ± 0.1 g Phenol Red 10.3 Report the % Total Alkali as agent solutions should be verified by the pro-
and dissolve it in 833 mL methanol. NaOH. cedures in 7.1.4-7.1.7.
7.2.2 Add 833 mL deionized water. 12.3 For process control purposes, speci-
men volume is often substituted for weight. In
7.2.3 Cover the solution and stir with a 11. Precision and Bias this case the% alkali may be in error to the ex-
magnetic stirrer until the solution is com- tent of the bleach bath density. If results are to
pletely clear. 11.1 Precision. be communicated between installations, speci-
11.1.1 In 1995 an interlaboratory study men mass should be used.
8. Procedure included five laboratories with two oper- 12.4 Simplifications and conversions.
ators each, evaluating three concentra- 12.4.1 If 0.1N H2SO4 solution is used, and
8.1 Measure 20 ± 1 mL deionized wa- tions of alkali in aqueous solutions con- the specimen mass is 10.0 g, the equation in
ter into a 250 mL beaker and add 2-3 taining 1.15% hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). 9.1 is simplified to:
drops of Phenol Red indicator solution. If Each operator made three determinations % alkali as NaOH = (0.04) (mL)
a pH meter is used to detect the end- on each concentration. Data were ana-
point, do not add Phenol Red indicator lyzed using the ASTM Tex-pac program 12.4.2 Alkalinity may be defined in terms
solution. (see 12.5). other than “% as NaOH.” Some convenient al-
8.2 Weigh a 10 ± 0.01 g specimen from 11.1.2 Analysis showed the residual ternatives, using 0.1N sulfuric acid solution, a
the bleach bath. Add the specimen to the specimen mass of 10.0 g, and the term “mL”
variances of the three concentrations as defined in 9.1, are:
beaker and mix (see 12.3). could be pooled as shown in Table I.
8.3 Titrate the contents of the beaker 11.2 Bias. (mL) (2.5) = lb sodium silicate per 100 gal,
with 0.1N sulfuric acid to a greenish-yel- 11.2.1 The results obtained in the inter- if the sodium silicate is 10.5% Na2O
low end-point, or to pH 7.6 ± 0.8 if using laboratory study indicate 97.6% average (mL) (2.9) = lb sodium silicate per 100 gal,
a pH meter to detect the end-point. if the sodium silicate is 8.9% Na2O
recovery as compared with the calculated (mL) (0.332) = lb NaOH per 100 gal
8.4 Record the number of the 0.1N sul- values of alkali concentration based on
furic acid used to the nearest 0.1 mL. 12.5 Available from ASTM International,
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
9. Calculations 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
Table I—Critical Differences for 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
9.1 Calculate the total alkali as NaOH Two Averages for the Conditions Noted,
to the nearest 0.1% using the following 95% Probability Level, 13. History
equation: % Alkali Concentration
% Total Alkali, as NaOH 13.1.1 Revised in 2022 to align to the
Number Single-Material Comparisons AATCC Style Guide.
of Test 13.1.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
( mL ) ( N ) ( 0.040 ) ( 100 )
= ------------------------------------------------------- Results Single- Within- Between- 2016, 2012. Editorially revised 2010. Reaf-
W in Each Operator Laboratory Laboratory firmed 2007, 2002. Revised 1997. Reaffirmed
Average Precision Precision Precision 1989, 1988. Editorially revised 1987, 1985,
where: 1 0.013 0.027 0.069 1984. Revised 1982 (with title change). Reaf-
mL = the number of mL of the sul- 2 0.009 0.025 0.069 firmed 1979, 1975, 1972, 1968.
furic acid solution required, as 3 0.008 0.025 0.068 13.2 Developed in 1960 by AATCC Com-
recorded in 7.1.4. 4 0.007 0.025 0.068 mittee RA34.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,

174 AATCC TM98-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM100-2019

Test Method for Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of

1. Purpose and Scope by appropriately trained personnel. The 50°C (113-122°F).
U.S. Department of Health and Human 6.2.5 Pipettes and tips: 10-1000 µL pi-
1.1 This test method provides a quanti- Services publication, Biosafety in Micro- pettes and appropriate tips.
tative procedure for the evaluation of the biological and Biomedical Laboratories, 6.2.6 Culture tubes with non-screw
degree of antibacterial activity. Assess- should be consulted (see 13.1). caps; minimum 10 mL capacity.
ment of antibacterial finishes on textile 4.5 CAUTION: Some of the microor- 6.2.7 Petri dishes, 100 mm diam. × 15
materials is determined by the degree of ganisms used in these tests are allergenic mm deep, sterile.
antibacterial activity intended in the use and pathogenic; i.e., capable of infecting 6.2.8 Forceps, sterile.
of such materials. If only bacteriostatic humans and producing disease. There- 6.2.9 Stereomicroscope, minimum 40 ×
activity (inhibition of multiplication) is fore, every necessary and reasonable pre- magnification.
intended, a qualitative procedure which caution must be taken to eliminate this 6.2.10 Ruler.
clearly demonstrates antibacterial activity risk to the laboratory personnel and to 6.2.11 Analytical balance, capable of
as contrasted with lack of such activity by personnel in the associated environment. measuring 10.0 ± 0.1 g.
an untreated specimen may be accept- Wear protective clothing, respiratory pro- 6.2.12 Sterile specimen container with
able. However, if bactericidal activity is tection, and impervious gloves when screw cap, 150-mL capacity or similar.
intended or implied, quantitative evalua- working with the organisms. 6.2.13 Exam gloves, nitrile or other.
tion is necessary. Quantitative evaluation 4.6 Sterilize all contaminated samples 6.2.14 Vortex mixer.
also provides a clearer picture for possi- and test materials prior to disposal. 6.2.15 Steam sterilizer or autoclave.
ble uses of such treated textile materials. 6.2.16 Viability control fabric (see 13.4).
5. Test Organisms
2. Principle 7. Preparation of Bacterial Inocula
5.1 Test bacteria:
2.1 This test method provides a quanti- 5.1.1 Staphylococcus aureus, ATCC 7.1 Grow a fresh 18-h shake culture of
tative procedure for the comparison and No. 6538, Gram positive organism, CIP each test specimen in sterile Tryptic Soy
evaluation of the degree of antibacterial 4.83, DSM 799, NBRC 13276, NCIMB (or Nutrient) broth at 37 ± 2°C and 150-
activity after a 24 h exposure to the test 9518 or equivalent strain (see 13.2 and 250 rpm prior to performing the test.
bacteria on the test fabric compared di- 13.3). These cultures should originate from a
rectly against an untreated control. After 5.1.2 Klebsiella pneumoniae, ATCC single colony selected from stock culture
incubation, the bacterial challenge is No. 4352, Gram negative organism, CIP plates or growth on agar slants. Fresh
eluted from the swatches and enumerated 104216, DSM 789, NBRC 13277, stock plates should be generated weekly.
and a percent reduction by the fabric NCIMB 10341 or equivalent strain (see 7.1.1 Each 18-h shake culture is then
specimen is calculated. 13.2 and 13.3). diluted with suspension medium (6.1.6),
5.1.3 Other suitable species can also be as appropriate for the estimated bacterial
3. Terminology used depending on the intended end-use concentration, to obtain a bacterial con-
of the test sample. centration that is between 1.0 × 105 and
3.1 activity, n.—of an antibacterial 3.0 × 105 CFU/mL. These suspensions
agent, a measure of effectiveness of the are used as the test inoculum. Prepared
6. Materials, Media and Reagents
agent. test inoculum is used within 2 h of prepa-
3.2 antibacterial agent, n.—any 6.1 Media and reagents. Suitable broth/ ration and bacterial concentration should
chemical which kills bacteria (bacteri- agar media are: be verified by appropriate enumeration
cide) or interferes with the multiplication, 6.1.1 Nutrient broth/agar. method.
growth or activity of bacteria (bacteri- 6.1.2 Trypticase Soy broth/agar.
ostat). 6.1.3 Sterile distilled or deionized 8. Test Specimens
water.
4. Safety Precautions 6.1.4 Triton X-100. 8.1 Preparation. The following descrip-
6.1.5 Neutralizing broth: Letheen tion will be in terms of fabric swatches.
4.1 The safety precautions specified in broth, Dey Engley broth or other appro- Textile materials not in fabric form can
the method are ancillary to the testing priate for the antimicrobial compound be- likewise be tested with the appropriate
procedures and are not intended to be all ing tested. modification.
inclusive. 6.1.6 Suspension Medium, 1:20 (5%) 8.1.1 Size and shape of test swatches:
4.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- Nutrient broth or Trypticase Soy broth + Cut circular swatches 4.8 ± 0.1 cm (1.9 ±
erence applicable safety data sheets, use 0.05% Triton X-100. Dilute the nutrient 0.03 in.) in diameter or square swatches
safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- broth (TSB) 1:20 with distilled or deion- 3.8 × 3.8 ± 0.1 cm, from the test fabric.
propriate personal protective equipment ized water containing 0.05% Triton X- Use the number of swatches needed to
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

in handling materials in this standard. 100. Sterilize by autoclaving at 121 ± equal 1.0 ± 0.1g. Stack the swatches in a
4.3 Users MUST be consult manufac- 2°C. If not used immediately after prepa- sterile specimen container with screw cap
turers for specific details such as safety ration, store at 5-10°C. or other appropriate closed container. The
data sheets, equipment operating instruc- 6.2 Materials. number of swatches to be used is depen-
tions, and other recommendations. Con- 6.2.1 Incubator maintained at 37 ± 2°C dent on the fiber type and fabric construc-
sult and follow all applicable health and (99 ± 4°F). tion. The number of swatches used per jar
safety regulations (e.g., OSHA standards 6.2.2 Inoculating loop. should be reported.
and rules). 6.2.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent. 8.1.2 Untreated Controls. Swatches of
4.4 This test should be performed only 6.2.4 Water bath maintained at 45- the same fiber type and fabric construc-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM100-2019 175
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tion as test sample but containing no anti- 10. Calculation not been established. Until a precision
bacterial finish will be required if calcu- statement is generated for this test
lating percent reduction using formula 10.1 Report bacterial counts as the method, caution should be used when
outlined in 10.2. number of bacteria per sample (swatches testing materials with this method. In
8.1.3 Viability Controls. Viability con- in jar) not as the number of bacteria per most cases the use of standard statistical
trol fabric is required and should be mL of neutralizing solution. Report “0” techniques in making any comparisons of
known to demonstrate > 1 log bacterial counts at 100 dilution as “less than 100.” test results for either within-laboratory or
growth as defined in 10.4. 10.2 Calculate percent reduction of between-laboratory averages have been
8.1.4 Test specimens should not be bacteria by the specimen treatments using found to be generally accepted.
sterilized prior to testing. If sterilization Eq. 1.
is performed, method and reason for ster- 100(B – A)/B = R (Eq. 1) 13. Notes and References
ilization must be noted on the test report.
13.1 Publication available from U.S. De-
where: partment of Health and Human Services,
9. Procedure R = % reduction CDC/ NIH-HHS Publication No. (CDC) 84-
A = the number of bacteria recovered 8395; web site: www.hhs.gov.
9.1 Size of inoculum per sample. Ap- from the inoculated treated test 13.2 ATCC is the American Type Culture
ply 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of test inoculum (7.1.1) specimen swatches in the jar in- Collection (USA), P.O. Box 1549, Manassas
so that recovery from (1) viability control cubated over the 24-h contact pe- VA 20108; tel: +1.703.365.2700; fax: +1.703.
fabric swatches or (2) test fabric swatches riod 365.2701; web site: www.atcc.org. CIP is the
at “0” contact time (plated as soon as pos- B = the number of bacteria recovered Pasteur Institute Collection (France), DSM is
sible after inoculation) will show counts from the inoculated untreated test
the German Collection of Microorganisms and
of 1-3 × 105 organisms. Cell Cultures (Germany), NBRC is the NITE
specimen swatches in the jar in- Biological Resource Center (Japan), NRRL is
9.1.1 As soon as possible after inocula- cubated over the 24-h contact pe-
tion (“0” contact time), add 100 ± 1 mL the Northern Regional Research Lab (USA),
riod. NCIMB is the National Collection of Indus-
of neutralizing solution to each of the jars trial Bacteria (UK), and CUG is the Culture
containing the inoculated untreated con- 10.3 If an untreated control is not avail- Collection University of Göteborg (Sweden).
trol swatches, the inoculated test able, use Eq. 2. Equivalent bacteria strains obtained from
swatches and the viability control fabric agencies of the World Federation of Culture
swatches. 100(C – A)/C = R (Eq. 2) Collection (WFCC) may be used by agree-
9.1.2 The neutralizing solution should where: ment between the interested parties. The
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

include ingredients to neutralize the spe- strains used in the test shall be documented
C = the number of bacteria recovered with their supply source.
cific antibacterial fabric treatment and to from the inoculated, test speci-
take care of any pH requirements of the 13.3 Consistent and accurate testing re-
men swatches in the jar immedi- quires maintenance of a pure, uncontaminated,
fabrics (from finishes, antibacterial ately after inoculation (at “0” nonmutant test culture. Avoid contamination
agents, etc.). The neutralizing solution contact time) by use of good sterile technique in plating and
employed should be reported. transferring. Avoid mutation by strict adher-
9.1.3 Shake the jars vigorously for one 10.4 For a valid test there should be: ence to monthly stock transfers. Check culture
minute. Make serial dilutions with sterile (1) “0” colonies of test organism recov- purity by making streak plates periodically
distilled water and plate (in duplicate) on ered from the uninoculated test specimen and observing for single species-characteristic
nutrient agar. Dilutions of 100, 101, 102 swatches and (2) a significant (≥ 1 log) type of colonies.
are usually suitable. increase in the numbers of bacteria recov- 13.4 A suitable viability control fabric
9.1.4 Incubation over contact periods. known to demonstrate > 1 log growth under
ered from the inoculated viability control the standard conditions in this method has
Incubate additional jars containing inocu- specimen swatches incubated for the been identified and can be purchased through
lated viability control swatches and jars specified contact time over the numbers the International Antimicrobial Council
containing inoculated test swatches at 37 of bacteria recovered from the inoculated (www.amcouncil.org).
± 2°C (99 ± 3°F) for 24 h. Similar jars viability specimen swatches at “0” con-
may be incubated over other periods tact time (immediately after inoculation). 14. History
(e.g., 1 or 6 h) to provide information
about the bactericidal activity of the treat- 14.1 Last revised 2019 to remove several
11. Report issues that led to confusion among users. Am-
ment over such periods.
9.1.5 Sampling of viability control and 11.1 Report percent reduction of bacte- biguity was reduced by defining the parame-
ters for use of untreated viability controls,
test swatches. After incubation, add 100 ria by the specimen treatment against concentration of nutrient in inoculum me-
± 1 mL of neutralizing solution to jars each test organism. Report should include dium, inoculum preparation, fabric swatch
containing viability control swatches and the calculation method used. preparation, sample sterilization, and final test
to jars containing test swatches. Shake 11.2 The criterion for passing the test report contents.
the jars vigorously for 1 minute. Make must be determined by the interested par- 14.2 Revised 2012. Editorially revised
serial dilutions and plate (in duplicate) on ties. 2010, 2009. Reaffirmed 2008. Editorially re-
nutrient agar. Dilutions of 100, 101, 102 11.3 All variables and materials used in vised and reaffirmed 2004. Revised 1999. Re-
are usually suitable for treated test fab- the test including sample size, steriliza- affirmed 1998. Revised 1993. Reaffirmed
rics. Dilutions of 103 or 104 may be re- 1989. Revised (with title change) 1988. Edito-
tion and method, media used, neutralizer rially revised and reaffirmed 1986. Editorially
quired for viability control and untreated used, and the dilution medium used. revised 1985. Revised 1981. Reaffirmed 1977.
control swatches depending on the incu- Editorially revised 1974, 1971, 1969. Revised
bation period. 12. Precision and Bias 1965.
9.1.6 Incubate all plates for 24-48 h at 14.3 Developed in 1961 by AATCC Com-
37 ± 2°C (99 ± 3°F). 12.1 Precision for this test method has mittee RA31.

176 AATCC TM100-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM101-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to Bleaching with Hydrogen Peroxide

1. Purpose and Scope Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 6.2 If the textile to be tested is yarn,
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR knit it into cloth and sew the knitted cloth
1.1 This test method is intended for 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov as above, or form a layer of parallel
evaluating the resistance of the color of for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- lengths of yarn between the two white
textiles of all kinds except polyamide, in can Conference of Governmental Indus- cloths, and sew around the four sides to
all forms, to the action of bleach baths trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold hold the yarns in place.
containing hydrogen peroxide at concen- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time 6.3 If the textile to be tested is fiber,
trations commonly employed in textile weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short comb and compress some of it into a
processing. term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and sheet 10.2 × 3.8 cm (4.0 × 1.5 in.) in size,
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended place the sheet between the two white
2. Principle as a general guide for air contaminant ex- cloths, and sew around the four sides to
2.1 A specimen of the textile in contact posure which should be met (see 12.1). form a composite specimen.
with specified white cloths is immersed
in the bleaching solution, rinsed and 7. Procedure (see 12.4)
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.2)
dried. The change in color of the speci- 7.1 For Tests I, II, III, loosely roll the
men and the staining of the test cloths are 5.1 Test tube or beaker, diameter and
length such that the test specimen roll composite specimen in the direction of
evaluated. the long edge, place the roll in the test
will have a reasonably snug fit and be
covered by the bleach solution. tube. Immerse cloth in the appropriate
3. Terminology bleach solution (Table I), and keep it sub-
5.2 Bleach bath of the applicable com-
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of merged for the indicated time and tem-
position given in Table I.
a material to change in any of its color perature (Table I).
5.3 Two white test cloths, each 10.2 ×
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 7.2 For Test IV, saturate the composite
3.8 cm (4.0 × 1.5 in.), one piece made of
rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a specimen with 100% of its weight of the
the same kind of fiber as that of the tex-
result of the exposure of the material to appropriate bleach solution (Table I), roll
tile to be tested, the second piece made of
any environment that might be encoun- in the direction of the long edge and place
the fiber indicated in Table II. A white
tered during the processing, testing, stor- in saturated steam (see 12.5) at 99-101°C
multifiber test fabric (see 12.3) may be
age or use of the material. (210-214°F) for 1 h.
used instead of the second white cloth.
7.3 Remove the composite specimen,
5.4 Gray Scale for Color Change
4. Safety Precautions rinse for 10 min in flowing cold tap water
(AATCC EP1) (see 12.7).
and squeeze. Remove the stitching on
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.5 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC
two long sides and one short side, open
for information purposes only. The pre- EP2) (see 12.7).
the specimen, and dry at a temperature
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5.6 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-
not exceeding 60°C (140°F) with the
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 12.7).
three parts in contact only at the one line
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use of stitching.
safe and proper techniques in handling 6. Test Specimens
materials in this test method. Manufac- 8. Evaluation Method for Alteration in
turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.1 If the textile to be tested is cloth, Color (Shade and Strength)
details such as material safety data sheets place a 10.2 × 3.8 cm (4.0 × 1.5 in.) spec-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- imen of it between the two pieces of 8.1 Evaluate the test specimen for
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

tions. All OSHA standards and rules white cloth, and sew along all four sides change in color by comparison with the
must also be consulted and followed. to form a composite specimen. Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all Table I—Composition of Bleaching Bath and Conditions of Use
laboratory areas.
4.2 In preparing bleaching baths, use Test I Wool Test II Silk Test III Cotton Test IV Cotton
appropriate personal protective equip- (Quantities per liter of distilled water)
ment while handling hydrogen peroxide Hydrogen peroxide, 35%a 15.4 mL (17.5 g) 8.8 mL (10.0 g) 8.8 mL (10.0 g) 8.8 mL (10.0 g)
(35%) and sodium hydroxide concen- Sodium silicate, 42° Béb 5.1 mL (7.2 g)0 4.2 mL (6.0 g)0 7.0 mL (10.0 g)
trates. Chemical goggles or face shield, Sodium pyrophosphatec 5.0 g
rubber gloves and rubber apron should be Sodium hydroxided 0.5 g 0.5 g
worn during preparation steps involving Wetting agente 2.0 mL
these materials. pH (initial)f 9.0-9.5 10.5 10.5 10.5
4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should Time 2h 1h 2h 1h
be located nearby for emergency use. Temperature 49°C (120°F) 82°C (180°F) 88°C (190°F) 100°C (212°F)
4.4 Use proper protective equipment, Liquor to cloth ratio 30:1 30:1 30:1 1:1
such as gloves and metal tongs, during a
handling of hot sample tubes. b
By weight (H2O2) w/w.
42° Bé, SiO2:Na2O ratio = 2.5:1, 10.6% Na2O, 26.0% SiO2.
4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this c
Na4P2O7 · 10H2O.
procedure must be controlled at or below d
C.P. grade.
levels set by governmental authorities e
Doubly sulfonated castor oil.
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health f
Adjust with NaOH solution if necessary.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM101-2019 177
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Choice of Test Cloth EP2, AATCC EP8 or AATCC EP12). other materials should be cleaned to their
usual degree of whiteness. A white multifiber
If first piece is Second piece to be test fabric may be used instead of the second
11. Precision and Bias white cloth.
Wool, silk, linen, rayon Cotton or multifiber test 11.1 Precision. In 2000 a single labora- 12.4 Select from Table I the test most suit-
fabric
tory study was performed using a single able for the conditions under which the fiber is
Cotton, acetate Viscose rayon or multifiber operator. to be used. For example, if a colored silk is to
test fabric (see 12.3) be used as an effect thread in a woolen or wor-
11.1.1 Samples tested consisted of six sted fabric, check its colorfastness by the wool
fabrics with three replicates each. Refer method. If a colored silk is to be used as an ef-
to Table 1 for the bleach formulas and fect thread in a silk fabric, check its colorfast-
EP1), or using AATCC EP7, Instrumen- conditions used. Color change and stain- ness by the silk method.
tal Assessment of the Change in Color of ing were evaluated instrumentally for 12.5 Saturated steam may be obtained by
a Test Specimen, and record the numeri- each sample. placing approximately 20 mL of water in the
cal rating that corresponds to the appro- 11.1.2 Within-laboratory standard er- bottom of a test tube fitted with a flared glass
priate one on the Gray Scale. For im- rors and sample variance are shown in rod long enough to keep the specimens above
Table III. Data is on file at the AATCC the water level. Heat to active boil. Use a re-
proved precision and accuracy, the flux condenser to maintain volume of liquor.
specimens should be rated by more than Technical Center. Invert a small watch glass over the specimen
one rater. 11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to bleaching to prevent direct impingement on the sample
with hydrogen peroxide can be defined of water drops from the condenser.
9. Evaluation Method for Staining
only in terms of a test method. There is 12.6 For very critical evaluations and in
no independent method for determining cases of arbitration, ratings must be based on
9.1 Evaluate the staining of the fabric the true value. As a means of estimating the geometric gray scale for evaluating staining.
used in the test by comparison with the this property, the method has no known 12.7 Available from AATCC, PO Box
Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC EP2), bias. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer- USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
ence Scale (AATCC EP8), or Instrumen- 12. Notes www.aatcc.org.
tal Assessment of Degree of Staining
(AATCC EP12), and record the numeri- 12.1 Available from Publications Office,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper 13. History
cal grade that corresponds to the appro-
priate one on either of them (see 12.6). Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; +1.
513.742.2020; www.acgih.org. 13.1 Revised in 2019 to align format with
The scale used should be indicated when 12.2 For potential equipment information AATCC style.
reporting the test results. pertaining to this test method, please visit 13.2 Reaffirmed 2013. Editorially revised
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. 2010. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2009.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility Editorially revised 2008. Revised 2004. Edito-
10. Report rially revised 2002. Editorially revised 2001.
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
10.1 Report the following information Corporate members, but AATCC does not Reaffirmed 1999. Editorially revised 1995.
for each type of white fiber used in the qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- Editorially revised and reaffirmed (with title
tify that any of the listed equipment or change) 1994. Editorially revised and reaf-
test: firmed 1989. Editorially revised 1987. Editori-
materials meets the requirements in its test
The bleach solution used (test number methods. ally revised 1985. Reaffirmed 1984.
in Table I). 12.3 The white cloths should be plain Reaffirmed 1979. Reaffirmed 1975. Revised
The color change grade. weave, medium weight, free from finishes, re- 1972. Revised 1968. Revised 1963.
The staining grade. sidual chemicals and chemically damaged fi- 13.3 Developed in 1961 by AATCC Com-
The evaluation procedure used (AATCC bers. Cotton and linen should be bleached; mittee RA34.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

178 AATCC TM101-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table III—Within-Laboratory Standard Errors and Sample Variance

Sample Test Mean Standard Standard Sample Critical

Identification Parameter Value Deviation Error Variance Difference
Color Change 3.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Color Transfer 4.17 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 4.17 0.58 0.33 0.33 1.01
Brown Wool
Cotton 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
(Test 1)
Nylon 3.33 0.58 0.33 0.33 1.01
Polyester 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Acrylic 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Wool 3.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Color Change 2.50 0.50 0.29 0.25 0.87
Color Transfer 1.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 3.33 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Green Wool
Cotton 3.33 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
(Test 1)
Nylon 2.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Polyester 4.50 0.50 0.29 0.25 0.87
Acrylic 4.17 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Wool 3.50 0.87 0.50 0.75 1.51
Color Change 3.17 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Color Transfer 2.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 1.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Red Silk
Cotton 3.33 0.58 0.33 0.33 1.01
(Test 2)
Nylon 1.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Polyester 2.83 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Acrylic 4.33 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Wool 2.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Color Change 2.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Color Transfer 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Blue Silk
Cotton 4.50 0.87 0.50 0.75 1.51
(Test 3)
Nylon 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Polyester 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Acrylic 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Wool 4.33 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Color Change 3.83 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Color Transfer 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 4.33 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Purple Cotton
Cotton 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
(Test 3)
Nylon 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Polyester 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Acrylic 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Wool 3.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Color Change 3.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Color Transfer 5.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Multifiber Stain
Acetate 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Gray Cotton
Cotton 4.83 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
(Test 3)
Nylon 4.67 0.29 0.17 0.08 0.50
Polyester 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Acrylic 4.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00
Wool 3.50 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00

*Note: Because the interlaboratory test included less than five laboratories, estimates of standard error and sample variance may be either underestimated or overestimated
to a considerable extent and should be used with special caution. The values should be viewed as minimal data with regards to precision. Confidence levels are not well
established.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM101-2019 179
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM102-2022

Test Method for Determination of Hydrogen

Peroxide by Potassium Permanganate Titration
1. Purpose and Scope American Conference of Governmental flask. Dilute to the mark with water.
Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) Thresh- 8.3.4 Store solutions of potassium per-
1.1 This test method determines the old Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of manganate in brown bottles or otherwise
concentration of hydrogen peroxide time weighted averages (TLV-TWA), protect the solutions from light.
(H2O2) in aqueous solutions, particularly short term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) 8.4 Standardization of 0.588N potas-
those used in textile bleaching. and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recom- sium permanganate solution. Make three
mended as a general guide for air con- determinations as follows.
2. Principle taminant exposure which should be met 8.4.1 Pipette 100 mL 0.100N sodium
(see 13.1). oxalate solution into a 250 mL Erlenm-
2.1 A specimen is acidified with sulfu-
ric acid and titrated with standardized eyer flask and add 10 ± 1 mL 20% sulfu-
potassium permanganate solution. The 5. Apparatus ric acid.
concentration of hydrogen peroxide is 8.4.2 Heat to boiling. Remove from
5.1 Filter funnel, fritted glass, fine po- heat and immediately titrate with the po-
calculated using the volume and normal- rosity, 250 mL.
ity of the permanganate solution used. tassium permanganate solution being
5.2 Filtration flask, 2000 mL. standardized, adding the titrant drop by
drop at the beginning and at the end of
3. Terminology 6. Reagents the titration. The end-point is a faint but
3.1 bleaching, n.—elimination of un- permanent pink color.
6.1 Sodium oxalate (Na2C2O4), crys-
wanted coloring matter from a textile tals, CP. 8.4.3 Calculate the normality of the po-
substrate by oxidative or reductive chem- 6.2 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 95-98%. tassium permanganate solution to the
ical treatment. nearest 0.001 using the following equa-
6.3 Potassium permanganate (KMnO4),
tion:
crystals.
4. Safety Precautions Nk = (Vo)(No)/(Vk)
7. Specimens
NOTE: These safety precautions are where:
for information purposes only. The safety 7.1 Obtain 10 ± 0.1 g of the aqueous Vo = volume of the sodium oxalate
precautions are ancillary to the testing hydrogen peroxide specimen into a 250 solution used, in mL
procedures and are not intended to be all mL flask (see 13.3). No = normality of the sodium oxalate
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to solution
use safe and proper techniques in han- 8. Preparation of Reagents Vk = volume of the potassium per-
dling materials in this test method. Manu-
facturers MUST be consulted for specific 8.1 Standard 0.100N sodium oxalate manganate solution used, in mL
details such as safety data sheets and solution. 8.4.4 Average the three normality
other manufacturer’s recommendations. 8.1.1 Dry at least 7 g sodium oxalate in values and use that average for all calcu-
All OSHA standards and rules must also an oven at 105 ± 1°C (221 ± 2°F) for 4 h lations.
be consulted and followed. and cool in a desiccator.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 8.1.2 Weigh 6.7000 ± 0.0002 g sodium 9. Procedure
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all oxalate (see 8.1.1) and dissolve in 250-
laboratory areas. 300 mL distilled or deionized water at 70 9.1 Weigh 10 ± 0.1 g of the aqueous
4.2 All chemicals should be handled ± 10°C (158 ± 18°F). hydrogen peroxide specimen into a 250
with care. Sodium oxalate, potassium 8.1.3 Cool and quantitatively transfer mL flask (see 7.1 and 13.3).
permanganate and sulfuric acid are corro- to a 1 L volumetric flask and cover. Al- 9.2 Add 20 ± 1 mL 20% sulfuric acid
sive. When preparing the dilute solutions low to stand at least 12 h, then dilute to to the flask (see 8.2). Gently mix by
from pure or concentrated reagents, use the mark with distilled or deionized wa- swirling or stirring.
chemical goggles or face shield, impervi- ter. 9.3 Titrate the solution with standard-
ous gloves, and an impervious apron. 8.2 Sulfuric acid, approximately 20% ized potassium permanganate solution
CAUTION: Always add acid to water. by volume (see Section 4 for safety pre- (see 8.3 and 8.4) to a faint pink color
4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should cautions). which lasts at least 30 s. Record the vol-
be located nearby and a high efficiency 8.2.1 Slowly add 200 mL 95-98% sul- ume of titrant in milliliters as Vt.
particulate respirator with organic vapor furic acid to 800 mL water with stirring. 9.3.1 If less than 2 mL of titrant are
cartridge and full facepiece should be Cool to 20 ± 2ûC (68 ± 4ûF). used, repeat the procedure using either a
readily available for emergency use. 8.2.2 Add water to 1 L. standardized potassium permanganate so-
4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this 8.3 Potassium permanganate solution lution of known lower normality or a
procedure must be controlled at or below 0.588N (see 13.2). larger specimen.
levels set by governmental authorities 8.3.1 Weigh 18.6 ± 0.1 g potassium 9.4 Titrate a blank, and record the mL
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health permanganate and add it to 900 mL water. titrant required as Vb.
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible 8.3.2 Boil the solution for 15 min and
exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29 cool. 10. Calculations
CFR 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha. 8.3.3 Filter the solution through a filter
gov for latest version). In addition, the funnel (see 5.1) into a 1 L volumetric 10.1 Calculate the % H2O2 to the near-

180 AATCC TM102-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM102-2022 181
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM103-2019

Test Method for Bacterial Alpha-Amylase

Enzymes used in Desizing
1. Purpose and Scope ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted Table I—Guide to Selection
averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo- of Sample Weight
1.1 This test method is intended for the sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim-
assay of the bacterial amylases employed its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen- Sample weight
commercially for textile desizing. It is not eral guide for air contaminant exposure Sample to be used
applicable to products that contain beta- which should be met (see 13.2). alpha-amylase mg sample
amylase in addition to alpha-amylase. content per 10 mL
(BAU per g) final dilution
5. Uses and Limitations
2. Principle 70-250 200
5.1 The calibration of the method as 125-500 100
2.1 Dextrogenic amylase activity is presented here further restricts its use to 300-900 50
measured in terms of the digestion time amylases of bacterial origin. 600-1800 25
required to produce a color change denot- 5.2 Some surface-active agents inter- 1000-4000 10
ing a definite stage of dextrinization of fere with the color development which is 3000-9000 5
the starch substrate. The amylase content an essential part of this method. The 6000-18000 .02.5
of the sample, expressed in Bacterial method is therefore not suitable for assess- 12500-50000 1
Amylase Units (BAU), is readily calcu- ing the effect of surfactants on enzymes.
lated from the dextrinizing time (see 13.1).
6. Apparatus (see 13.3) making for easier and more accurate
3. Terminology
6.1 Comparator (see 13.4). measurements.
3.1 Bacterial Amylase Unit (BAU), 6.2 Water bath, controlled at constant 8.1.3 Liquid products should be
n.—a measure of starch degradation as temperature 30 ± 1°C (86 ± 2°F). weighed as the specific gravity is usually
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

shown by the quantity of an enzyme that 6.3 Electric timer. greater than 1.0.
will dextrinize one milligram of starch 6.4 Glassware (see 13.5). 8.1.4 In all cases, a sufficient amount
per minute under the specified experi- 6.4.1 Borosilicate test tubes, 13 × 100 of sample should be weighed to minimize
mental conditions. mm—at least six dozen should be on weighing errors. If necessary, the amount
hand. of sample to be applied to the test may be
4. Safety Precautions obtained by secondary volume dilution.
6.4.2 Standard volumetric pipettes to
deliver 2 mL, 5 mL, 10 mL, 20 mL, fast 1 8.2 Stock Iodine Solution.
NOTE: These safety precautions are for
mL blow-out pipette for sampling hydro- 8.2.1 Weigh in glass, 5.5 g reagent
information purposes only. The precau-
lyzing mixture, plus assorted standard pi- grade crystalline iodine; to dissolve, add
tions are ancillary to the testing pro-
pettes to accomplish necessary sample 11 g reagent grade potassium iodine dis-
cedures and are not intended to be all
preparation dilutions. solved in minimal (10-12 mL) water.
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to
When iodine has completely dissolved
use safe and proper techniques in han-
dling materials in this test method. Users 7. Reagents dilute to 250 mL.
MUST consult manufactures for specific 8.2.2 Preserve this solution in an amber
7.1 Iodine (crystalline); reagent grade; I2 glass-stoppered bottle and store under re-
details such as safety data sheets and other 7.2 Potassium iodide; KI
recommendations. Consult and follow all frigeration. Solution may be used for
7.3 Potassium dihydrogen phosphate; three (3) months.
applicable OSHA standards and rules.
KH2PO4 (monobasic) 8.3. Dilute Iodine Solution.
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices.
7.4 Sodium phosphate; Na2HPO4 8.3.1 Dissolve 2.0 mL of stock iodine
Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas.
(dibasic) solution and 20 g reagent grade potas-
4.2 Handle all chemicals with care. 7.5 Merck’s Lintner Starch
Use chemical goggles or face shield, im- sium iodide in water, and dilute to 500 mL.
pervious gloves and an impervious apron 8.3.2 The dilute iodine solution may be
8. Preparations stored under refrigeration and used for
during dispensing and mixing of iodine;
this is a corrosive chemical. 8.1 Test Sample Preparation. one (1) week. However, at the time of its
4.3 Ensure an eyewash/safety shower 8.1.1 Prepare the sample solution by use (see 9.1), it should be at 30 ± 1°C (86
is located nearby and a self-contained dilution with water so that 10 mL of the ± 2°F).
breathing apparatus is readily available final solution (see Table I) will give a 8.4 Buffer Solution, pH 6.6.
for emergency use. dextrinizing time of 15-35 min. With dry 8.4.1 Solution A. Dissolve 9.078 g of
4.4 Control exposure to chemicals used samples, insoluble materials may be KH2PO4 in water and dilute to 1 L.
in this procedure at or below levels set by present but it is generally unnecessary to 8.4.2 Solution B. Dissolve 9.472 g of
governmental authorities [e.g., Occupa- filter the solution. Na2HPO4 in water and dilute to 1 L.
tional Safety and Health Administration’s 8.1.2 Table I shows sample weight to 8.4.3 Mix 600 mL of Solution A and 400
(OSHA) permissible exposure limits be used with samples of varying alpha- mL of Solution B to obtain pH 6.6 buffer.
(PEL) as found in 29 CFR 1910.1000; amylase content. If the sample can be 8.5 Buffered Starch Substrate.
see web site: www.osha.gov for latest placed in either of two ranges, it is prefer- 8.5.1 Determine the dry weight of
version]. In addition, the American Con- able to use the sample weight corre- Merck’s Lintner Starch (Special for Dia-
ference of Governmental Industrial Hy- sponding to the higher range since this static Power Determinations) by drying
gienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val- will give a longer dextrinization time, 20.00 g of starch at 103-104°C (217-

182 AATCC TM103-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
219°F) for 3 h. Weigh after cooling in sample be measured precisely before check on the preparation of the test solu-
desiccator and continue drying until adding to the dilute iodine solution. As tion where errors may have occurred re-
weight is constant. Discard after dry the end point is approached, the addition sulting in erroneous BAU.
weight has been determined. must be made accurately. The contents of
8.5.2 Calculate the amount of starch the pipette are blown into the iodine solu- 11. Report
equivalent to 10.00 g dry basis for 500 tion in order that the time may be more
mL starch substrate. accurately measured. 11.1 Report the amylase content of the
8.5.3 Starch should be retained in 9.6 Around the time of the end point, sample as Bacterial Amylase Units
tightly closed jar and not exposed to envi- samples should be taken every 0.5 min. (BAU) per gram.
ronment where the moisture content In case two (2) samples 0.5 min apart
would be subject to change. show that one is darker than the standard 12. Precision and Bias
8.5.4 Quantitatively transfer a slurry of color and the other one is lighter, record
10.00 g (dry weight basis) of Merck’s the end-point time as the quarter minute 12.1 Precision. The mean of duplicate
Lintner Starch into about 300 mL of vig- between these two times. tests should check within ± 6.5% of the
orously stirred boiling water contained in 9.7 Care must be exercised to avoid true mean at the 95% confidence level.
a 1-L Pyrex beaker. Leave the stirring rod contact of the 1-mL hydrolyzing pipette This information is based on an interlabo-
in the solution after boiling resumes and with the dilute iodine solution. A carry- ratory study.
boil for exactly 3 min. back of iodine to the hydrolyzing mixture 12.2 Bias. The values, Bacterial Assay
8.5.5 Cool to room temperature in a will interfere with enzyme action. Units (BAU), can only be defined in
cold-water bath with continuous stirring to terms of a test method. There is no inde-
avoid skin formation (surface dehydration). 10. Calculation pendent method for determining the true
8.5.6 Quantitatively transfer the starch value. Based on the information avail-
into a 500-mL volumetric flask using a 10.1 Calculate the alpha-amylase con- able, the method has no known bias.
small quantity of water to complete the tent of the sample by using the following
transfer. equation:
13. Notes
8.5.7 Add 10 mL of pH 6.6 buffer and BAU per g = 40(F)/T
dilute to the mark. 13.1 If approximate or anticipated BAU of
8.5.8 Check the pH of the starch sub- 10.2 Explanation of equation (see 13.1): material to be tested is known, determine dilu-
tion factor (F) by multiplying selected test
strate with a standardized pH meter.
BAU = Bacterial Amylase Units per time (T) by anticipated BAU and dividing by
8.5.9 Starch substrate should be free of gram (g) 40, thus: T × BAU/40 = F.
lumps or flakes and prepared fresh daily. F = Dilution Factor (total dilu- 13.2 Available from Publications Office,
Contamination of the starch substrate tion volume/sample weight in ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
with even minute traces of enzyme will grams) Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240, USA; +1.
render the substrate unsuitable for use. 513.742.2020; www.acgih.org.
T = Dextrinizing time in minutes
13.3 For potential apparatus, reagents or
9. Procedure 10.3 The preceding equation follows materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s
from: Guide at www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides
9.1 Dispense 5.0 mL dilute iodine its Corporate members the option to their
(a) the definition of the BAU as the items and services. AATCC does not qualify,
solution in each of a series of test tubes quantity of enzyme that dextrinized one
and allow to attemperate in the 30 ± 1°C or in any way approve, endorse or certify that
mg of starch per minute, and any of the listings meet the specifications in its
(86 ± 2°F) bath. (b) the assay practice of dextrinizing standards.
9.2 Transfer 20.0 mL of buffered 400 mg of starch (20 mL of 2% solution) 13.4 Light Source. Should be either day-
starch substrate into a 50-mL Erlenmeyer with a 10 mL aliquot of enzyme solution. light or daylight fluorescent lamps. Incandes-
(or equivalent) (lead rings are convenient Thus: cent lamps should not be used since they give
to weight the flask), stopper, place in 30 ± slightly lower results.
1°C (86 ± 2°F) bath allowing about 15 BAU per gram = 400/T × F/10 = 40F/T 13.5 All glassware must be clean. This
min to attain uniform temperature within applies particularly to pipettes where a hang-
the flask. 10.4 Example of Calculations: up of droplets interferes with correct volume
9.3 Likewise, attemperate an appropri- 10.4.1 If we assume that for a particu- delivery. Sulfuric acid-potassium dichromate
ate amount of freshly prepared sample lar sample being tested the anticipated cleaning solution is an efficient cleanser but
solution. Rapidly add 10.0 mL of the BAU/g is 800, reference to Table I indi- must be thoroughly removed by repeated
sample solution, using a blow-out type cates that 25 mg of sample per 10 mL rinsing.
pipette, and start the timer. After pipette has of final dilution should be employed.
drained, replace rubber stopper and swirl Therefore, 2.5 g of the sample would be 14. History
flask vigorously to ensure proper mixing. weighed out, and diluted to 1000 mL. It
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

now becomes possible to calculate the 14.1 Revised (with title change) in 2019 to
9.4 At appropriate time intervals, add 1 align format with AATCC style.
Dilution Factor, F:
mL (blow-out pipette with cotton plug) of 14.2 Reaffirmed 2013. Editorially revised
the hydrolyzing mixture to 5 mL of dilute F = Total Dilution Volume/Sample 2010. Reaffirmed 2009. Editorially revised
iodine solution at 30 ± 1°C (86 ± 2°F), Weight in grams = 1000/2.5 = 400 2008. Reaffirmed 2004. Revised 1999. Edito-
shake to mix thoroughly, pour into the 13 rially revised and reaffirmed 1994. Editorially
mm precision square tube, and compare 10.4.2 If the dextrinizing time is 20 revised 1991. Editorially revised and reaf-
with standard alpha-amylase color disc in min, the BAU/g can be calculated: firmed 1989. Editorially revised 1986. Edi-
the comparator. After completing the torially revised 1985. Reaffirmed 1984.
BAU/g = 40 F/T = 40 × 400/20 Reaffirmed 1979. Reaffirmed 1976. Reaf-
comparison, empty the square tube, giv- = 16000/20 = 800 firmed 1973. Reaffirmed 1970. Reaffirmed
ing it a quick shake so that very little liq- 1965.
uid remains. The tube may now be used 10.4.3 If BAU does not fall within ex- 14.3 Developed in 1962 by AATCC Com-
for another test. pected limits, a retest should include the mittee RR41. Jurisdiction transferred to RA34
9.5 During the initial stages of reac- practice of making up an entirely new in 1987, returned to RR41 in 1993. Currently
tion, it is not necessary that the 1-mL sample preparation. This constitutes a maintained by RA99.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM103-2019 183
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM104-2010(2014)e2

Test Method for Colorfastness to Water Spotting

Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 8. Evaluation
tee RA23; reaffirmed 1966, 1969, 1972, sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
1975, 1978, 1988, 1989, 1999; editori- safe and proper techniques in handling 8.1 Rate the effect on the color of the
ally revised and reaffirmed 1981, 1983, materials in this test method. Manufac- test specimens by the Gray Scale for
1994, 2004, 2014; revised 2010; edito- turers MUST be consulted for specific Color Change (AATCC EP1), or using
rially revised 2019. Technically equiva- details such as material safety data sheets AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment
lent to ISO 105-E07. and other manufacturer’s recommenda- of the Change in Color of a Test Speci-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules men, and record the numerical rating that
must also be consulted and followed. corresponds to the appropriate one on the
1. Purpose and Scope 4.1 Good laboratory practices should Gray Scale (see 11.1).
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
1.1 This test method is designed to laboratory areas. 9. Report
evaluate the resistance to water spotting
of dyed, printed or otherwise colored tex- 9.1 Report type of water and pH of
tile fabrics. Whites can also exhibit color 5. Apparatus and Materials water used for the test.
change, such as yellowing. 5.1 Glass rod. 9.2 Report the grade for change in
1.2 The test method does not determine 5.2 Gray Scale for Color Change color after 2 min and after drying at room
whether the discoloration is removable. (AATCC EP1) (see 11.1). temperature.
5.3 Pipette, graduated, 1 mL.
2. Principle 5.4 Distilled or deionized water. 10. Precision and Bias
2.1 The test specimen is spotted with 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test
distilled or deionized water and evalua- 6. Test Specimens method has not been established. Until a
tion is made of change of color, after wet- precision statement is generated for this
ting and after drying. 6.1 Colored cloth specimen, approxi-
test method, use standard statistical tech-
mately 15.2 × 15.2 ± 0.4 cm (6 × 6 ± 0.16 niques in making any comparisons of test
in.). results for either within-laboratory or
3. Terminology
between-laboratory averages.
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 7. Procedure 10.2 Bias. Colorfastness to water spot-
a material to change in any of its color ting can be defined only in terms of a test
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 7.1 With tip of pipette in contact with
cloth, run onto the specimen 0.15 mL wa- method. There is no independent method
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a for determining the true value. As a
result of the exposure of the material to ter at room temperature. If necessary,
work water in with a rounded glass rod to means of estimating this property, the
any environment that might be encoun- method has no known bias.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- assist penetration.
age or use of the material. 7.2 Evaluate the change in color in the
periphery of the spot after 2 min wetting 11. Note
4. Safety Precautions and after drying at room temperature by 11.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
use of the Gray Scale for Color Change 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709;
NOTE: These safety precautions are (AATCC EP1), or using AATCC EP7, In- tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933;
for information purposes only. The pre- strumental Assessment of the Change in e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Color of a Test Specimen. org.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

184 AATCC TM104-2010(2014)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM106-2009e(2013)e3

Test Method for Colorfastness to Water: Sea

Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit- 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 8.2 Remove the test specimen from the
tee RA23; revised 1967, 1968, 1972, dations should be followed when operat- test solution and only pass between
1981, 2009; reaffirmed 1975, 1978, ing laboratory testing equipment. squeeze rolls (wringer) to remove excess
1989, 2007; editorially revised 1985, 4.4 Observe padder safety. Ensure ade- liquor when the wet weight of the test
1994, 2001, 2005, 2008, 2010, 2016, quate guard at the nip point. Normal safe- specimen is more than 3 times its dry
2019; editorially revised and reaffirmed guards on pad should not be removed. weight. Whenever possible, the wet
1986, 1991, 1997, 2002, 2013. Partly weight should be 2.5-3.0 times the dry
equivalent to ISO 105-E02. 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) weight.
8.3 Place the test specimen between
5.1 Perspiration tester (plastic or glass glass or plastic plates and insert in the
1. Purpose and Scope plates are available with the equipment) specimen unit of the perspiration tester.
(see 12.2). Adjust the perspiration tester to produce a
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

1.1 This test method is designed to 5.2 Drying oven—convection. pressure of 4.5 kg (10.0 lb) on the test
measure the resistance to sea water of 5.3 Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33 specimen (see 12.2).
dyed, printed, or otherwise colored textile in.] bands) containing acetate, cotton, ny- 8.4 Heat the loaded specimen unit in an
yarns and fabrics of all kinds. lon, silk, viscose rayon and wool shall be oven at 38 ± 1°C (100 ± 2°F) for 18 h.
1.2 Artificial sea water is used in this used for specimens containing silk, or 8.5 Remove the tester from the oven
test because natural sea water is variable (8 mm [0.33 in.] bands) containing ace- and for each test specimen assembly, sep-
in composition, and is often difficult to tate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and arate the multifiber fabric and, if used,
obtain. wool shall be used for specimens with no the adjacent fabric from the test fabric.
silk present. Place the multifiber fabric and test fabric
2. Principle 5.4 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- specimens separately on a wire screen in
ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 12.3). a conditioned atmosphere 21 ± 2°C (70 ±
2.1 The specimen, backed by multifi- 5.5 Gray Scale for Color Change 4°F) and 65 ± 5% relative humidity over-
ber test fabric, is immersed in artificial (AATCC EP1) and Gray Scale for Stain- night.
sea water under specified conditions of ing (AATCC EP2) (see 12.3).
temperature and time, and then placed 5.6 Wringer.
between glass or plastic plates under 9. Evaluation Method for Color Change
specified conditions of pressure, temper-
6. Test Solution (Artificial Sea Water) 9.1 Evaluate the test specimen for
ature and time. The change in color of the
specimen and the staining of the attached change in color by comparison with the
6.1 Per liter: Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
multifiber test fabric are observed. Sodium chloride (NaCl), tech. 30 g EP1) or using AATCC EP7, Instrumental
Magnesium chloride (MgCl2), anhyd. Assessment of the Change in Color of a
3. Terminology 5g Test Specimen, and record the numerical
Distilled water to make 1000 mL rating that corresponds to the appropriate
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of solution
a material to change in any of its color one on the Gray Scale.
characteristics, to transfer of its color-
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 7. Test Specimens
10. Evaluation Method for Staining
result of the exposure of the material to 7.1 If the specimen to be tested is a
any environment that might be encoun- fabric, attach a piece of multifiber adja- 10.1 Evaluate the staining of the multi-
tered during the processing, testing, stor- cent fabric also measuring 5 × 5 ± 0.2 cm fiber fabric used (see 12.5) by compari-
age or use of the material. to the specimen measuring 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm son with the Gray Scale for Staining
by sewing along one of the shorter sides, (AATCC EP2), the AATCC 9-Step Chro-
4. Safety Precautions with the multifiber fabric next to the face matic Transference Scale (AATCC EP8)
of the specimen. or Instrumental Assessment of Degree of
NOTE: These safety precautions are 7.2 If the specimen to be tested is a Staining (AATCC EP12), and record the
for information purposes only. The pre- yarn or loose fiber, take a mass of the numerical rating that corresponds to the
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- yarn or loose fiber approximately equal appropriate one on either of them. Report
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- to one half of the combined mass of the which scale is used (see 12.6).
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use adjacent fabrics. Place it between a 5 × 5
safe and proper techniques in handling ± 0.2 cm piece of multifiber fabric and a 11. Precision and Bias
materials in this test method. Manufac- 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm piece of the non-dyeable
turers MUST be consulted for specific fabric, and sew along all four sides. 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
details such as material safety data sheets method has not been established. Until a
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 8. Procedure precision statement is generated for this
tions. All OSHA standards and rules test method, use standard statistical tech-
must also be consulted and followed. 8.1 Immerse the test specimen in the niques in making any comparisons of test
4.1 Good laboratory practices should test solution at room temperature with oc- results for either within-laboratory or
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all casional agitation to ensure thorough between-laboratory averages.
laboratory areas. wetting out (approximately 15 min gener- 11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to sea water
4.2 All chemicals should be handled ally required for average fabrics) (see can be defined only in terms of a test
with care. 12.4). method. There is no independent method

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM106-2009e(2013)e3 185
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
for determining the true value. As a less of the number of specimens. After the fi- a set screw. The specimen unit can now be
means of estimating this property, the nal glass or plastic plate is put in position on removed from the section applying the pres-
method has no known bias. top, set the dual plates with compensating sure. Another specimen unit may be added to
springs in position. Place a 3.6 kg (8.0 lb) the pressure section and the loading procedure
weight on top making a total of 4.5 kg (10.0 repeated.
12. Notes lb) under the pressure plate. Lock the pressure 12.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
plate in position by turning the thumb-screws. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
12.1 For potential equipment information Remove the weight. Place the unit in the oven +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
pertaining to this test method, please visit on its side, so that the plates and the speci- [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. mens are vertical. 12.4 Or immerse the test specimen in the
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility Vertical Perspiration Tester: The plates are test solution at room temperature, pass
of listing equipment and materials sold by its held in a vertical position between an indicat- through squeeze rolls (wringer) and reim-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not ing scale with a fixed metal plate at one end merse. Repeat, if necessary, to attain thorough
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- and an adjustable metal plate at the other wetting out.
tify that any of the listed equipment or end. By means of adjusting screws, the mov- 12.5 Classify according to the fiber show-
materials meets the requirements in its test able plate may be made to exert increasing ing the greatest stain.
methods. pressure against the test specimens. When the 12.6 For very critical evaluations and in
12.2 Horizontal Perspiration Tester: Put all desired pressure of 4.5 kg (10.0 lb) is indi- cases of arbitration, ratings must be based on
21 glass or plastic plates into the unit regard- cated on the scale, lock the specimen unit by the Gray Scale for Staining.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

186 AATCC TM106-2009e(2013)e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM107-2022

Test Method for Colorfastness to Water

1. Purpose and Scope 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.2) generally required for average fabrics).
For fabrics hard to wet out, immerse the
1.1 This test method is designed to 6.1 Perspiration tester (with acrylic test specimen in the test solution at room
measure the resistance to water of dyed, plates) (see Figs. 1 and 2). temperature, pass through squeeze rolls
printed, or otherwise colored textile yarns 6.2 Drying oven—convection. (wringer) and re-immerse. Repeat, if nec-
and fabrics. 6.3 Cold cut multifiber test fabrics (8 essary, to attain thorough wetting out.
1.2 Distilled water or deionized water mm [0.33 in.] bands) containing acetate, When using the wringer, ensure adequate
is used in this test method because natural cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon and guard at the nip point. Normal safeguards
(tap) water is variable in composition. wool shall be used for specimens contain- on pad should not be removed.
ing silk, or (8mm [0.33 in.] bands) con- 9.2 Remove the test specimen from the
2. Principle taining acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, test solution and pass each test specimen
acrylic and wool shall be used for speci- assembly through the wringer with the
2.1 The specimen, backed by multifi- mens with no silk present (see 12.3).
ber test fabric, is immersed in water and multifiber stripes perpendicular to the
6.4 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC length of the wringer rolls (all stripes go
then subjected to specified conditions of EP2 or EP12) or AATCC 9-Step Chro-
pressure, temperature and time. After through the wringer at the same time).
matic Transference Scale (AATCC EP8) Weigh each test specimen to be sure it
conditioning, the change in color of the (see 11.4).
specimen and the staining of the attached weighs greater than or equal to 2.5 times
6.5 Gray Scale for Color Change its original weight. Whenever possible,
multifiber test fabric are observed.
(AATCC EP1 or EP7) (see 12.4). the wet weight should be 2.5-3.0 times
2.2 Results are reported as a Gray
Scale for Change and Staining of grade 5 6.6 Wringer. the original weight. Because certain fab-
to 1. A grade of 5 represents no color 6.7 Petri dish with a depth greater than rics may not be able to retain this amount
change and a grade of 1 represents the 1.5cm and capable of containing a 6 x 6 ± of solution when passing through a
most color change. 0.2 cm test specimen wringer, such fabrics may be tested after
6.8 Un-dyed adjacent fabric blotting to the required wet pickup with
6.9 White AATCC Textile Blotting Pa- White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper
3. Referenced Documents
per (see 12.4). (see 12.4).
3.1 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice 6.10 Balance with a weighing accuracy 9.3 Place the test specimen assembly
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles of ± 0.001 g. between acrylic plates and insert in the
(see 12.1). specimen unit of the perspiration tester
7. Test Solution with the multifiber stripes running per-
4. Terminology pendicular to the long dimension of the
7.1 Distilled water or deionized water
plate (see Fig. 3).
4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of from an ion-exchange device.
a material to change in any of its color 9.4 Depending upon equipment avail-
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- able, use the following alternates:
8. Test Specimens 9.4.1 Horizontal Perspiration Tester
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a
result of the exposure of the material to 8.1 Number and size of specimens (see Fig. 1): Place the plates in the perspi-
any environment that might be encoun- 8.1.1 For fabric testing, one specimen, 6 ration tester with the specimen assem-
tered during the processing, testing, stor- x 6 ± 0.2 cm, is needed. Attach a 5 x 5 ±
age or use of the material. 0.2 cm multifiber test fabric swatch to the
face of the fabric by sewing a single seam
5. Safety Precautions stitch along one edge of the fabric.
8.1.2 For yarn or loose fiber testing,
NOTE: These safety precautions are weigh a 5 × 5 ± 0.2 cm piece of multifi-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
for information purposes only. The pre- ber fabric and a 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm piece of
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- the un-dyed adjacent fabric together.
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- Then take a mass of the yarn or loose fi-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ber approximately equal to one half of the
safe and proper techniques in handling combined mass of the adjacent fabrics.
materials in this test method. Manufac- Place it between a 5 × 5 ± 0.2 cm piece of
turers MUST be consulted for specific multifiber fabric and a 6 × 6 ± 0.2 cm
details such as material safety data sheets piece of the un-dyed adjacent fabric, and
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- sew a single seam stitch along all four
tions. All OSHA standards and rules sides.
must also be consulted and followed.
5.1 Good laboratory practices should 9. Procedure
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas. 9.1 Weigh each test specimen (as pre-
5.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- pared in 8.1) to the nearest 0.1g. Immerse
dations should be followed when operat- the test specimen in a petri dish in the test
ing laboratory testing equipment. solution which is at room temperature
5.3 See 9.1 for safety precautions re- with occasional agitation to ensure thor-
lated to using a wringer ough wetting out (approximately 15 min Fig. 1—Horizontal perspiration tester.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM107-2022 187
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 2—Vertical perspiration tester.

blies evenly distributed between the 21

plates. Place all 21 plates into the unit re-
gardless of the number of specimens. Af-
ter placing the final plate in position (on
top) set the dual plates with compensat-
ing springs in position, place the 3.63 kg
(8.0 lb) weight on top making a total of
4.54 kg (10.0 lb) under the pressure plate,
and lock the pressure plate in position by
turning the thumb screws. Remove the
weight and place the unit lying on its side
in the oven so that the sides of the perspi-
ration tester are parallel to the oven walls
(see Fig. 4).
9.4.2 Vertical Perspiration Tester (see
Fig. 2): Assemble the plates in the perspi-
ration tester with the specimens evenly
distributed between the 21 plates. Place
all 21 plates into the unit regardless of the
number of specimens. The plates are held
in a vertical position between an indicat-
ing scale with a fixed metal plate at one
end and an adjustable metal plate at the
Fig. 3—Specimen in holder. other end. Use the adjusting screw to ex-
ert a 4.54 kg (10.0 lb) force against the
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

plates. Lock the specimen unit containing

the test specimens with a set screw. Re-
move the pressure gauge unit from the
specimen unit and place the specimen
unit in the oven such that the side of the
peroration tester is to the oven walls. An-
other specimen unit may be added to the
pressure gauge unit and the loading pro-
cedure repeated.
9.5 Heat the loaded specimen unit in an
oven at 38 ± 1°C (100 ± 2°F) for 18 h ± 5
min.
9.6 Remove the tester from the oven
and for each test specimen assembly, sep-
arate the multifiber fabric and, if used,
the adjacent fabric from the test fabric.
Place the multifiber fabric and test fabric
specimens separately on a wire screen in
accordance with ASTM D1776 over-
night.

10. Evaluation
Fig. 4—Horizontal perspiration tester placement in oven. 10.1 Color Change.

188 AATCC TM107-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.1.1 Evaluate the test specimen for Table III—Precision Table for Table VII—Precision Table for Color
change in color by comparison with the Stain Rating of Cotton Change Rating
Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
EP1), or by using Instrumental Assess- No. of Within Lab Between Lab No. of Within Lab Between Lab
ment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimens Precision Precision Specimens Precision Precision
Specimen (AATCC EP7), and record the 1 0.11251 0.14512 1 0.04181 0.05376
numerical rating that corresponds to the 2 0.0797 0.1028 2 0.0296 0.0381
appropriate one on the Gray Scale. 3 0.0650 0.0838 3 0.0241 0.0310
10.2 Staining (see 12.7). 4 0.0563 0.0726 4 0.0209 0.0269
10.2.1 Evaluate the staining of the mul- 5 0.0503 0.0649 5 0.0187 0.0240
tifiber fabric used (see 12.5) by compari-
6 0.0459 0.0592 6 0.0171 0.0219
son with the Gray Scale for Staining
(AATCC EP2), the AATCC 9-Step Chro-
matic Transference Scale (AATCC EP8), Table IV—Precision Table for
or Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Stain Rating of Polyester fidence level.
Staining (AATCC EP12), and record the • The stain ratings assigned by different
numerical rating that corresponds to the Within Lab Between Lab
labs for acrylic fiber differed signifi-
appropriate one on either of them. Report Specimens Precision Precision
which scale was used (see 12.6). 1 0.06906 0.08911
cantly at 95% confidence level.
• The mean stain ratings of acrylic fiber
2 0.0489 0.0631
11. Precision and Bias corresponding to five different time pe-
3 0.0399 0.0514
riods differed significantly at 95% con-
11.1 Precision. Proficiency data gener- 4 0.0345 0.0446
fidence level.
ated by 91 different labs during five dif- 5 0.0309 0.0399 • The stain ratings assigned by different
ferent time periods (June 2012, Decem- 6 0.0282 0.0364 labs for cotton fiber did not differ sig-
ber 2012, June 2013, December 2013 and nificantly at 95% confidence level.
June 2014) was used to define the preci-
Table V—Precision Table for • The mean stain ratings of cotton fiber
sion of stain rating and color change rat-
ing values. Each lab used the same fabric Stain Rating of Polyester corresponding to five different time pe-
materials to obtain the stain rating and riods differed significantly at 95% con-
No. of Within Lab Between Lab
color change rating values. Each lab per- Specimens Precision Precision fidence level.
formed three replicate tests for each test • The stain ratings assigned by different
1 0.03017 0.03894
material and used three different raters to labs for nylon fiber did not differ sig-
assign ratings for staining and color 2 0.0214 0.0276
nificantly at 95% confidence level.
change. Each lab also used multi-fiber 3 0.0174 0.0225 • The mean stain ratings of nylon fiber
fabric strips containing acetate, acrylic, 4 0.0151 0.0195 corresponding to five different time pe-
cotton, nylon, polyester and wool fibers 5 0.0135 0.0174 riods differed significantly at 95% con-
to assess the staining of individual fibers. 6 0.0123 0.0159
11.1.1 Tables I-VI give the within lab fidence level.
and between lab precision values for the • The stain ratings assigned by different
stain ratings of acetate, acrylic, cotton, Table VI—Precision Table for labs for polyester fiber differed signif-
nylon, polyester and wool fibers. Stain Rating of Wool icantly at 95% confidence level.
• The mean stain ratings of polyester fi-
No. of Within Lab Between Lab ber corresponding to five different time
Specimens Precision Precision
periods differed significantly at 95%
Table I—Precision Table for 1 0.03743 0.04831
Stain Rating of Acetate confidence level.
2 0.0265 0.0342 • The stain ratings assigned by different
No. of Within Lab Between Lab 3 0.0216 0.0279 labs for wool fiber did not differ sig-
Specimens Precision Precision 4 0.0187 0.0242 nificantly at 95% confidence level.
1 0.02879 0.03715 5 0.0167 0.0216 • The mean stain ratings of wool fiber
2 0.0204 0.0263 6 0.0153 0.0197 corresponding to five different time pe-
3 0.0166 0.0214 riods differed significantly at 95% con-
4 0.0144 0.0186 fidence level.
5 0.0129 0.0166
11.1.2 Table VII gives the precision • The mean color change ratings of dif-
6 0.0118 0.0152 values for color change rating. As men- ferent labs did not differ significantly
tioned above, the multi-period data gen- at 95% confidence level. The mean
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

erated by 91 different labs was used to color change ratings of five different
Table II—Precision Table for
Stain Rating of Acrylic
compute the precision values. time periods differed significantly at
11.1.3 In addition to providing the pre- 95% confidence level.
No. of Within Lab Between Lab cision values, the analysis of the multi- • In general the between period variation
Specimens Precision Precision period data revealed the following statis- was more than the between lab variation.
1 0.02983 0.03849 tical facts: 11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to water can
• The stain ratings assigned by different
2 0.0211 0.0273 be defined only in terms of a test method.
labs for acetate fiber differed signifi-
3 0.0172 0.0222
cantly at 95% confidence level. There is no independent method for de-
4 0.0149 0.0192 • The mean stain ratings of acetate fiber termining the true value. As a means of
5 0.0133 0.0172 corresponding to five different time pe- estimating this property, the method has
6 0.0122 0.0157 riods differed significantly at 95% con- no known bias.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM107-2022 189
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Notes +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e- 13, History
mail: [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.
12.1 Available from ASTM International, org. 13.1 Revised in 2022 for clarity and align
www.astm.org. 12.5 Classify according to the fiber show- with prescribed AATCC style guide.
12.2 For potential equipment information ing the greatest stain. 13.2 Revised 2013, 2012. Editorially re-
pertaining to this test method, please visit the 12.6 For very critical evaluations and in vised 2010. Revised 2009. Editorially revised
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at http:// cases of arbitration, ratings must be based on 2008. Reaffirmed 2007. Editorially revised
www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos- the Gray Scale for Staining. 2005. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2002.
sibility of listing equipment and materials sold 12.7 CAUTION: It has been reported that Editorially revised 2001. Editorially revised
by its Corporate members, but AATCC does the results for staining obtained by this and reaffirmed 1997. Editorially revised 1994.
not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or method on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy, Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1991. Reaf-
certify that any of the listed equipment or black, etc.) that contain a combination of poly- firmed 1989. Editorially revised and reaf-
materials meets the requirements in its test ester and spandex, or their blends, may not firmed 1986. Editorially revised 1985, 1983.
methods. show the full staining propensity of such fab- Revised 1981. Reaffirmed 1978, 1975. Re-
12.3 The six fiber test fabrics without fused rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom- vised 1972, 1968, 1967.
edges should be used in this method. mended that the staining results obtained by 13.3 Developed in 1962 by AATCC Com-
12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box this test not be used for the acceptance testing mittee RA23. Technically equivalent to ISO
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: of such fabrics. 105-E01.

190 AATCC TM107-2022

Test Method for Colorfastness to Ozone

in the Atmosphere under Low Humidities
Developed in 1963 by AATCC Commit- cabinet should be vented to the outside paratus should be located in a room in
tee RA33; revised 1972, 1986, 1987, atmosphere in accordance with the manu- which the ambient air temperature is 18-
2011; reaffirmed 1971, 1975, 1983, facturer’s specifications. Ozone in even 28°C (64-82°F) and the relative humidity
1992, 2002, 2005, 2016; editorially moderate concentrations is injurious to does not exceed 67%. For reference and
revised 1981, 1982, 1983, 1985, 1989, health. interlab testing, conduct tests in a room
1995, 2008, 2010, 2019; editorially re- 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this or chamber with the standard atmo-
vised and reaffirmed 1997. Partly procedure must be controlled at or below spheric conditions of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F)
equivalent to ISO 105-G03. levels set by governmental authorities and 65 ± 5% RH. Ozone should be
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health present in concentrations of 4.5 ± 1 ppm
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- for 4.5 ± 1 h. This constitutes one cycle
1. Purpose and Scope posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR (see 12.5).
1.1 This test method is intended for de- 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 8.2 Remove those specimens which
termining the resistance of the color of for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- exhibit a color change at the end of one
textiles to the action of ozone in the at- can Conference of Governmental Indus- cycle. One cycle will generally produce a
mosphere at room temperatures with rela- trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold measurable color change in specimens
tive humidities not exceeding 67%. Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time which are ozone sensitive.
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short 8.3 Run additional similar cycles as
2. Principle term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and necessary.
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
2.1 A test specimen is exposed to as a general guide for air contaminant ex- 9. Evaluation
ozone in an atmosphere under ambient posure which should be met (see 12.1).
temperatures (64-82°F) and relative hu- 9.1 At the end of each cycle immedi-
midities not exceeding 67%. The cycle is 5. Uses and Limitations ately compare those specimens which are
repeated (1) until the specimen shows a removed from the exposure chamber with
definite color change or (2) for a pre- 5.1 Although this test works well for the preserved originals from which they
scribed number of cycles. some substrates, it is not suitable for ny- were drawn.
lon carpets. For nylon carpets, refer to 9.2 Rate the effect on color of test
3. Terminology AATCC TM129, Test Method for Color- specimens after any specified number of
fastness to Ozone in the Atmosphere Un- cycles by reference to the Gray Scale for
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of der High Humidities. Color Change (AATCC (EP1) or using

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
a material to change in any of its color AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.2) of the Change in Color of a Test Speci-
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a men, and record the numerical rating that
result of the exposure of the material to 6.1 Ozone exposure chamber for ambi- corresponds to the appropriate one on the
any environment that might be encoun- ent temperatures and relative humidities Gray Scale. Report the number of cycles
tered during the processing, testing, stor- not to exceed 67% (see 12.3). run (see 12.6).
age or use of the material. 6.2 Gray Scale for Color Change
(AATCC EP1) (see 12.4). 10. Report
4. Safety Precautions
7. Test Specimens 10.1 Report the numerical grade for the
NOTE: These safety precautions are change in color of each test specimen, the
for information purposes only. The safety 7.1 Cut each test specimen at least 10.0 number of cycles run and the temperature
precautions are ancillary to the testing × 6.0 cm (4.0 × 2.375 in.). For subse- and relative humidity at which the test
procedures and are not intended to be all quent color comparisons, keep the unex- was performed.
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to posed sample in an airtight container
use safe and proper techniques in han- away from light to avoid shade change. 11. Precision and Bias
dling materials in this test method. Manu- 7.2 When a laundered or drycleaned
facturers MUST be consulted for specific specimen is used, the effects of ozone are 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
details such as material safety data sheets based on comparisons with the color of method has not been established. Until a
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- the unexposed laundered or drycleaned precision statement is generated for this
tions. All OSHA standards and rules specimen. To prepare specimens for test method, use standard statistical tech-
must also be consulted and followed. testing after laundering or drycleaning, niques in making any comparisons of test
4.1 Good laboratory practices should use AATCC TM61, Test Method for Col- results for either within-laboratory or
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all orfastness to Laundering: Accelerated, and between-laboratory averages.
laboratory areas. AATCC TM132, Test Method for Color- 11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to ozone in
4.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- fastness to Drycleaning, respectively. the atmosphere under low humidities can
dations should be followed when operat- be defined only in terms of a test method.
ing laboratory testing equipment. To pro- 8. Procedure There is no independent method for de-
tect the eyes further, do not look at ozone termining the true values. As a means of
generator while it is operating. 8.1 Suspend the test specimens in the estimating these properties, the method
4.3 Ozone is a sensory irritant. The test exposure chamber (see 12.3). The test ap- has no known bias.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM109-2011(2016)e 191
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Notes 12.3 The ozone exposure chamber for room surement of ozone concentrations, see the fol-
temperatures and relative humidities not ex- lowing references:
12.1 Available from Publications Office, ceeding 67% consists of an ozone generator, Schulze, Fernand, “Versatile Combination
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper fan, baffle system, specimen rack and housing. Ozone and Sulfur Dioxide Analyzer,” Ana-
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. Any form of an ozone generator may be used lytical Chemistry 38, May 1966, pp748-752.
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. to produce the required concentration; how- “Selected Methods of the Measurement of
12.2 For potential equipment information ever, ultraviolet light from mercury bulb gen- Air Pollutants,” Public Health Service Publi-
pertaining to this test method, please visit erators or from spark-gap generators should be cation No. 999-AP-11, May 1965. Office of
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. prevented from reaching the specimen on the Technical Information and Publications
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility rack by a suitable shield. (OTIP), Springfield VA. PB 167-677.
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 12.4 The Gray Scale for Color Change is 12.6 An automated electronic grading sys-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, tem may be used as long as the system has
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. been demonstrated to provide results that are
tify that any of the listed equipment or 919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
materials meets the requirements in its test [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. ity and reproducibility than an experienced
methods. 12.5 For information regarding the mea- grader performing visual evaluation.

192 AATCC TM109-2011(2016)e --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Test Method for Whiteness of Textiles

1. Purpose and Scope diffuser has a whiteness index of 100.0 vide evaluations of whiteness that can be
and a tint value of 0.0. directly compared to results from simi-
1.1 This test method provides proce- 3.5 tint, n.—in whiteness measure- larly calibrated instruments and that are
dures for measuring the whiteness and ment, the hue of a white material as influ- adequate for commercial use.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
tint of textiles using formulas recom- enced by the wavelength of peak emis-
mended by the CIE (see 12.1). The sion or reflectance. [CIE 15.2].
method describes the procedures to be 6. Apparatus and Materials
NOTE: Tint, if other than zero, is an
used and also the limitations and restric- indication of a reddish or greenish hue 6.1 Color Measuring Instrument. A re-
tions that apply. having shifted away from a bluish hue flectance spectrophotometer or colorime-
with dominant wavelength of 466 nm. ter capable of measuring or calculating
2. Principle 3.6 whiteness, n.—whiteness is the at- CIE tristimulus values with at least one of
tribute by which an object color is judged to the CIE specified geometries (45°:0°,
2.1 The CIE tristimulus values are 0°:45°, d:8°, 8°:d). When integrating
approach a preferred white. [ASTM E284].
measured using a reflectance spectropho- spheres are used for measuring fluores-
NOTE: Whiteness as measured by this
tometer or colorimeter, and the whiteness cent specimens, the spectral power distri-
test method is an indication of how white
and tint calculated from formulas based bution of the illuminating system is al-
the textile appears to an average viewer.
on the CIE chromaticity coordinates. tered by the reflected and emitted power
2.2 Many impurities in textiles absorb from the specimen. The use of the 45°:0°,
short wavelength light, resulting in a yel- 4. Safety Precautions
or 0°:45° condition is therefore preferable
lowish appearance to observers. There- NOTE: These safety precautions are (see 12.1). To be able to make direct com-
fore, a measurement of whiteness may be for information purposes only. The safety parisons between results from different
an indication of the degree to which a precautions are ancillary to the testing instruments, identical measuring geome-
textile is free from impurities. procedures and are not intended to be all tries should be used and all instruments
2.3 The presence of bluing components inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to should have the capability of adjusting
or fluorescent whitening agents (FWAs) use safe and proper techniques in han- the amount of ultraviolet energy in the
in textiles may also be determined using dling materials in this test method. Manu- illumination source.
the whiteness measurement. facturers MUST be consulted for specific 6.2 Reference Standard. The primary
details such as material safety data sheets standard is the perfect reflecting diffuser
3. Terminology and other manufacturer’s recommenda- (see 3.4). Secondary Reference Standards
tions. All OSHA standards and rules are standards that are calibrated in terms
3.1 CIE chromaticity coordinates, n.— must also be consulted and followed. of the perfect reflecting diffuser and are
the ratio of each of the tristimulus values 4.1 Good laboratory practices should used in the standardization of the instru-
of a psychophysical color to the sum of be followed. Wear safety glasses in all ment.
the tristimulus values (see 12.1) [ASTM laboratory areas. 6.3 UV Lamp. Used for visual determi-
E284]. 4.2 CAUTION: Protect the eyes from nation of presence of FWA on textile
3.2 CIE tristimulus values, n.— UV light. The safety recommendations specimens.
amounts of three non-real reference color provided by the UV light manufacturer
stimuli required to give a color match should be followed.
with the color stimulus considered and 7. Test Specimen
4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
defined by the CIE for the CIE 1931 stan- dations should be followed when operat- 7.1 Condition each specimen for sev-
dard colorimetric observer and the CIE ing laboratory testing equipment. eral hours in an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C
1964 standard colorimetric observer and (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH by layering
for a particular illumination condition each test specimen separately on a screen
5. Uses and Limitations
(see 12.1). or perforated shelf of a conditioning rack
3.3 fluorescent whitening agent 5.1 Because reflectance is affected by (see ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for
(FWA), n.—colorant that absorbs near the nature of the surface of the textile, Conditioning and Testing Textiles, and
ultraviolet (UV) radiation and re-emits comparisons can be made only between 12.5). Keep the samples free of dirt and
visible longer wavelength radiation. This samples of the same type of textile. stains. The exact size necessary will de-
enhances the whiteness appearance of 5.2 The application of the formulas is pend on the aperture of the reflectance
yellowish materials to which it has been restricted to specimens that are called measuring instrument used and on the
applied. [ASTM E284]. “white” commercially, and that do not translucency of the textile material.
3.4 perfect reflecting diffuser, n.— differ much in color and fluorescence.
ideal reflecting surface that neither ab- 5.3 When employing measuring instru- 8. Procedure
sorbs nor transmits light, but reflects dif- ments that are not equipped with capabil-
fusely, with the radiance of the reflecting ities for calibrating the UV content of the 8.1 Before proceeding with color mea-
surface being the same for all reflecting specimen illumination, the formulas pro- surements, determine whether or not a
angles, regardless of the angular distribu- vide for relative evaluations of whiteness fabric contains FWA by viewing a speci-
tion of the incident light. [ASTM E284]. that are restricted to specimens measured men in a dark room under ultraviolet
NOTE: The perfect reflecting diffuser on the same instrument at nearly the same light. A fabric that contains FWA will
is the basis of calibration of reflectance time. When employing measuring instru- fluoresce under the UV light.
measuring instruments. The equations for ments that are equipped with capabilities 8.1.1 If fluorescent whitening agents
whiteness and tint are formulated so that for calibrating the UV content of the (FWA) are present on the textile material,
the CIE concept of the perfect reflecting specimen illumination, the formulas pro- the measurement must be made with an

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM110-2021 193
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
instrument that illuminates the specimen are extremely dependent on the particular test method. There is no independent
with polychromatic light (full spectrum) use and material being measured. The method for determining the true values.
and has a relative spectral power distri- higher the value of W10, the greater the As a means of estimating these proper-
bution approximating CIE illuminant D65 whiteness. Equal differences in W10 value ties, the method has no known bias.
from 360-700 nm. Consult instrument do not necessarily indicate equal differ-
manufacturers for suitable equipment. ences in perceived whiteness nor equal
12. Notes and References
The user should also verify the suitability concentration differences of FWA. Simi-
of the instrument if flash illumination is larly, equal differences in TW, 10 value do 12.1 For a description of the CIE colorimet-
being used. not always represent equal perceptual dif- ric system, instrument geometry and a com-
8.1.2 For the determination of an ap- ferences in greenness or redness of plete description of the whiteness and tint
proximate relative efficiency of an FWA, whites. formulas used above, see CIE Publication
an instrument which permits the insertion 9.4 Whiteness (see 12.2 and 12.3). (For 15:2018, Colorimetry, 4th Edition. Available
of an ultraviolet cut-off filter into the illuminant D65 and 1964 10° observer): through US National Committee of the CIE
or via the CIE webstore (www.techstreet.com/
incident light beam may be used. The W10 = Y10 + 800 (0.3138 – x10) cie/).
difference between the measurements + 1700 (0.3310 – y10) 12.2 See EP11, Spectrometer UV Energy
taken before and after the insertion of the Calibration Procedure for Optically Bright-
ultraviolet cut-off filter can provide an where W10 is the whiteness value or in-
ened Textiles, as included in the AATCC
indication of the enhancement of the ap- dex; Y10, x10, y10 are the chromaticity co- Manual of International Test Methods and
parent whiteness due to the addition of an ordinates of the specimen, and 0.3138 Procedures, for details regarding ultraviolet
FWA. Because of possible variations in and 0.3310 are, respectively, the x10, y10 energy standardization of spectrophotometer
light sources and/or ultraviolet cut-off chromaticity coordinates for the perfect light sources. The Procedure can also be pur-
filters, the user is cautioned to use this diffuser. chased separately from AATCC, P.O. Box
procedure only for “relative in-house” Limited to: 40 < W10 < 5Y10 – 280. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
9.5 Tint (for illuminant D65 and 1964 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail: or-
determination. [email protected]; web site: www. aatcc.org.
8.2 Operate the color measuring instru- 10° observer):
12.3 The equation used in prior versions of
ment according to the manufacturer’s in- TW, 10 = 900 (0.3138 – x10) this test method was:
structions for standardization and mea- – 650 (0.3310 – y10)
W = 4B – 3G (AATCC TM 110-1979)
surement, in accordance with AATCC where TW, 10 is the tint value; x10, y10 are
EP6, Instrumental Color Measurement. the chromaticity coordinates of the sam- where W = Whiteness, B = Blue reflectance
8.2.1 If the spectrophotometer is ple, and 0.3138 and 0.3310 are, respec- and G = Green reflectance for CIE illuminant
equipped with adjustable ultraviolet en- C and CIE 1931 2° standard observer.
tively, the x10, y10 chromaticity coordi-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
12.4 Users who wish to explore the predic-
ergy, standardize the amount of ultravio- nates for the perfect diffuser. tion of data under true D65 illuminant for sam-
let energy in the spectrophotometer light Limited to: –4 < TW, 10 < +2. ples containing FWAs can refer to the
source (see 12.2). Values of TW, 10, when positive, indicate following: F. W. Billmeyer Jr., Metrology,
a greenish hue; when negative, indicate a Documentary Standards, and Color Specifica-
9. Calculations, Interpretation and reddish hue; and when zero, indicate a tions for Fluorescent Materials, Color Re-
Limitations bluish hue with a dominant wavelength search and Application, Vol. 19, 1994, pp413-
of 466 nm. 425, and Publication ISO 23603 (CIE S 012/
9.1 Average the measurement values E) “Standard method of assessing the spectral
taken for each test sample. quality of daylight simulators for visual ap-
10. Report praisal and measurement of colour.”
9.2 For each averaged measurement,
12.5 ASTM Standard Test Methods and
determine the CIE tristimulus values X10, 10.1 Report the numerical whiteness
Practices are available from ASTM, 100 Barr
Y10 and Z10 for CIE standard illuminant value, the tint value if required, the illu- Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA 19428; tel:
CIE D65 and 1964 10° observer (see minant and the CIE standard colorimetric +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.9555; web
ASTM E308 for details on calculation of observer used in the calculations, the in- site: www.astm.org.
tristimulus values from reflectance data). strument and its measuring geometry 12.6 For a more complete description of the
Determine the chromaticity coordinates used, and whether or not the ultraviolet proper procedures in color measurement, refer
Y10, x10, y10. energy of the spectrophotometer light to AATCC EP6, Evaluation Procedure for In-
9.3 The whiteness index (W10) for any source has been standardized using EP11, strumental Color Measurement.
sample shall be calculated by the equa- Spectrophotometer UV Energy Calibra-
tion in 9.4 and the tint (TW, 10) by the equation Procedure for Optically Brightened
Textiles (see 12.2). 13. History
tion in 9.5. Direct comparisons of white-
ness and tint values should only be made 13.1 Revised in 2021 for clarity and to add
for similar samples. Whiteness values are 11. Precision and Bias history section to align with AATCC Style
suitable for direct comparison to results Guide.
from similarly calibrated instruments 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test 13.2 Editorially revised 2019 and 2016; re-
only when the ultraviolet energy in the method has not been established. Until a vised 2015; reaffirmed 2011, 2005 and 2000;
spectrophotometer light source has been precision statement is generated for this revised 1995; editorially revised and reaf-
test method, use standard statistical tech- firmed 1994; revised 1989 (title change); edi-
standardized and measuring geometries torially revised 1980 and 1979; reaffirmed
are identical. Tint values are not suitable niques in making any comparisons of test 1979, 1975, and 1972; reaffirmed 1968.
for direct comparison between instru- results for either within-laboratory or 13.3 Developed in 1964 by AATCC Com-
ments. The degree of difference that will between-laboratory averages. mittee RA34; jurisdiction transferred in 1983
be accepted or rejected is the sole respon- 11.2 Bias. The whiteness and tint of to AATCC Committee RA36. Adopted as ISO
sibility of the user, as the requirements textiles can be defined only in terms of a 105-J02 in 1987.

194 AATCC TM110-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM111-2022

Test Method for Weather Resistance of Textiles:

Exposure to Daylight and Weather
1. Purpose and Scope 2. Principle 3.9 irradiance, n.—radiant power per
unit area as a function of wavelength ex-
1.1 This test method provides a means 2.1 Test specimens and the agreed pressed as watts per square meter, W/m2.
for determining the weather resistance of upon comparison standard(s) are exposed 3.10 irradiation, n.—the time integral
textile materials. simultaneously to natural weathering, ei- of irradiance expressed in joules per
1.2 The test options described below ther Directly or Behind Window Glass,
are applicable to fibers, yarns and fabrics either to a specified degree of degrada- square meter (J/m2).
and products made therefrom, including tion such as color change, strength loss, 3.11 laboratory sample, n.—a portion
coated fabrics, whether natural, colored, etc., or alternately to a specific amount of of material taken to represent the lot sam-
finished or unfinished. Test options in- radiant energy. Exposures can be timed ple, or the original material, and used in
cluded are: by calendar days, months, or years as the laboratory as a source of test speci-
Option A—Direct Exposure to Natu- well. However, this method can result in mens.
ral Light and Weather more variation when comparing test ex- 3.12 narrow bandpass radiometer,
Option B—Behind Glass Exposure to posures for equal duration at different n.—a relative term applied to radiometers
Natural Light and Weather without Direct time periods. The weather resistance of that have a bandpass width of 20 nm or
Wetting the material is determined by the exposed less at 50% of maximum transmittance
1.3 Outdoor testing as described under portion of the test specimens to an unex- and can be used to measure irradiance at
this method must be performed to verify posed counterpart, using one or more of wavelengths such as 340 or 420, ± 0.5
accelerated laboratory testing. It is up to the procedures recommended in this test nm.
interested parties to determine frequency method. 3.13 pyranometer, n.—a radiometer
and scope of outdoor testing. Refer to used to measure the global solar irradi-
AATCC TM169, Test Method for ance or if inclined, hemispherical solar ir-
3. Terminology radiance.
Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon
Lamp Exposures, and AATCC TM186, 3.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness 3.14 radiant power, n.—power travel-
Test Method for Weather Resistance: UV Standard, n.—one of a group of dyed ing through space in the form of photons
Light and Moisture Exposure, for infor- wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for or electromagnetic waves of various
mation on the limitations of accelerated use in determining the amount of light lengths.
laboratory testing. exposure of specimens during lightfast- 3.15 radiant exposure, n.—time inte-
1.4 This test method contains the fol- ness testing. gral of irradiance.
lowing sections that assist in the use and 3.2 black panel thermometer, n.—a 3.16 radiant flux density, n.—rate of
implementation of the various options for temperature measuring device, the sens- flow of radiant energy past the specimen.
determining the weather resistance of ing unit of which is coated with black de- 3.17 radiant power, n. energy per unit
textiles. signed to absorb most of the radiant en- time, emitted, transferred or received as
Section ergy encountered in lightfastness testing. radiation.
Principle......................................... 2 3.3 breaking strength, n.—the maxi- 3.18 radiometer, n.—an instrument
Terminology................................... 3 mum force applied to a specimen in a ten- used to measure radiant energy.
Safety Precautions ......................... 4 sile test carried to rupture. 3.19 reference fabric, n.—one or
Uses and Limitations ..................... 5 3.4 broad bandpass radiometer, n.— more blue wool lightfastness standards
Apparatus and Materials................ 6 a relative term applied to radiometers that selected for exposure as a check on a test
Calibration and Verification .......... 7 have a bandpass width of more than 20 apparatus and operating conditions.
Test Specimen Preparation ............ 8 nm and less than 70 nm at 50% of maxi- 3.20 specimen, n.—a specific portion
Test Specimen Mounting............... 8.1 mum transmittance. of a material or a laboratory sample upon
Conditioning .................................. 9 3.5 bursting strength, n.—the force or which a test is performed, or which is se-
Procedure ....................................... 10 pressure required to rupture a textile by lected for that purpose.
Evaluation ...................................... 11 distending it with a force applied at right 3.21 spectral irradiance, n.—the vari-
Report ............................................ 12 angles to the plane of the fabric, under ation of energy due to the source over the
Precision and Bias ......................... 13 specified conditions. wavelength span of the emitted radiation.
References...................................... 14 3.6 center wavelength, n.—the speci- 3.22 spectral transmittance, n.—the
Notes .............................................. 15 fied wavelength midway between the percent of incident radiant energy passing
Specimen Size and half power points, for example, 340 nm ± through a given material and not ab-
Preparation .................... Table I 2 nm. sorbed in the process, as a function of
Break Strength 3.7 color change, n.—as used in col- wavelength.
Components of Variance Table II orfastness testing, a change in color of 3.23 standard atmosphere for testing
Color Rating any kind whether in lightness, hue or textiles, n.—air maintained at 21 ± 2°C
Components of Variance Table III chroma or any combination of these, dis- (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% relative humidity.
Break Strength Critical cernible by comparing the test specimen 3.24 standard atmosphere for stor-
Differences.................... Table IV with a corresponding untested specimen. ing textiles, n.—laboratory conditions
Color Rating Critical 3.8 half-power bandpass, n.—the in- maintained as required in ASTM D1776.
Differences.................... Table V terval between wavelengths at which 3.25 tearing strength, n.—the average
Daylight Exposure, transmittance is 50% of peak transmit- force required to continue a tear previ-
Apparatus ...................... Appendix A tance in a bandpass filter. ously started in a fabric.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM111-2022 195
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
3.26 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant resistance test and the actual exposure in tions of use cannot be predicted with cer-
energy for which the wavelengths of the use must be determined mathematically tainty with any one test. Therefore, it is
monochromatic components are smaller and agreed upon by the contractual parties. common practice to investigate the dura-
than those for visible radiation and more bility of materials by exposure to the va-
than about 100 nm. A. Uses riety of conditions under which they can
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range be used to arrive at a full understanding
of ultraviolet radiation are not well de- 5.2 Option A is intended for use in of the performance that can be expected
fined and may vary according to the user. evaluating the resistance to degradation from them.
Committee E-2.1.2 of the CIE distin- of a textile and related material, including 5.8 Variations in results may be ex-
guishes in the spectral range between 400 coated fabrics, when subjected to natural pected when operating conditions are
and 100 nm: weathering including wetting, and radiant varied within the accepted limits of this
energy factors, and are further intended to method, or tests are conducted in differ-
UV-A 315-400 nm check the level of durability represented
UV-B 280-315 nm ent geographical locations. Therefore, no
in a material specification. Option B is reference shall be made to results from
UV-C 100-280 nm intended for use in evaluating the resis- the use of this method unless accompa-
3.27 visible radiation, n.—any radiant tance to degradation due to weathering nied by a report detailing the specific op-
energy capable of causing a visual sensa- and sunlight exposure under the milder erating conditions and locations in con-
tion. conditions of a protected atmosphere, formance with Section 12.
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range such as found in indoor environments,
visible radiation are not well defined and where wetting is not a factor and also 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 15.1)
may vary according to the user. The milder due to reduction in short wave-
lower limit is generally taken between length UV radiation by the glass. 6.1 Daylight Exposure Rack that al-
380 and 400 nm and the upper limit be- 5.3 The test option selected should re- lows wetting by rainfall (see 15.6 and
tween 760 and 780 nm (1 nanometer, 1 flect expected end-use conditions associ- ASTM G7).
nm = 10–9 m). ated with the material to be tested. 6.2 Behind Glass Daylight Exposure
3.28 weather, n.—climatic conditions 5.4 When using this test method, use a Cabinet that is glass covered and does not
at a given geographic location, including standard of comparison. This comparison allow wetting by natural rainfall (see Ap-
such factors as sunlight, rain, humidity material should have a known history in pendix A and ASTM G24, Type A).
and temperature. terms of a change in property value after 6.3 Black Panel Thermometer.
3.29 weather resistance, n.—ability a specific exposure. 6.4 Pyranometer.
of a material to resist degradation of its 6.5 UV Radiometer.
properties when exposed to climatic con- B. Limitations 6.6 RH Sensor.
ditions. 6.7 Blue Wool Standards (see AATCC
3.30 wide bandpass radiometer, n.— 5.5 Not all materials are affected TM16.1, Test Method for Colorfastness
a relative term applied to radiometers that equally by the same light source and en- to Light: Outdoor, and 14.2.1).
have a bandpass width of more than vironment. Results obtained by the use of
70nm at 50% of maximum transmittance. any one test option may not be represen-
7. Maintenance and Verification
NOTE: Wide bandpass radiometers tative of those of any other test option or
can be used to measure irradiance at any end-use application unless a mathe- 7.1 Maintain in accordance with the
wavelengths such as 300-800 nm. matical correlation for a given material or manufacturer’s instructions. For the Be-
a given application has been established hind Glass Daylight Exposure Cabinet,
4. Safety Precautions
between contractual parties. wash both the exterior surface and the in-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
5.6 In interpreting the results of these terior surface of the glass cover monthly
NOTE: These safety precautions are test options, consider that resistance to (or more frequently, if required) to re-
for information purposes only. The pre- degradation under simulated actual sun- move dust particles and other undesirable
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- light exposure is dependent upon such material.
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- factors as:
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.6.1 The inherent properties of the 8. Test Specimen Preparation
safe and proper techniques in handling material, its physical state, mass and
materials in this test method. Manufac- compactness. 8.1 Prepare specimens for the specified
turers MUST be consulted on specific de- 5.6.2 Spectral energy distribution and test procedures of at least the size given
tails such as material safety data sheets density of the radiant flux (from the sun). in Table I. When applicable, cut speci-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.6.3 The temperature and relative hu- mens with the longer direction parallel to
tions. All OSHA standards and rules midity of the air around the textile speci- the warp or filling direction as required in
must also be consulted and followed. men during exposure. a material specification or contract order
4.1 Daylight exposure of the skin and 5.6.4 The effect of leaching or degra- (see 15.4).
eyes for prolonged periods may be haz- dation of additive products, including fi- 8.1.1 Prepare specimens as required to
ardous; therefore, caution should be em- ber stabilizers, by rain. meet the needs of the applicable test
ployed to protect these areas. Do not look 5.6.5 Atmospheric contaminants. method given in Table I (see 15.2, 15.3,
directly at the sun under any circum- 5.6.6 The action of additive finishes and 15.4).
stances. and colorants including spectral absorp- 8.1.2 These dimensions are given as a
4.2 Good laboratory practices should tion characteristics. general guide and in most cases will be
be followed. 5.6.7 Where applicable, the action of adequate to perform the required evalua-
residual laundry or drycleaning chemicals. tion. Certain materials may exhibit a di-
5. Uses and Limitations 5.7 The relative rates of degradation of mensional change with respect to the ex-
different textile materials do not neces- posure. The test equipment manufacturer,
5.1 The use of these options does not sarily change to the same degree as those physical test apparatus and number of
imply, expressly or otherwise, an acceler- factors themselves change. Consequently, specimens required will affect the needed
ated test for a specific application. The the relative durability of textile and re- specimen size. In any event, the test pro-
degree of correlation between any weather lated materials under the varying condi- cedures given in Table I should be re-

196 AATCC TM111-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Specimen Size and Preparation the standard atmosphere for testing for a
reasonable period of time before the
Test Specimen specimens are tested. Twenty-four hours
Property Method Size has been found acceptable in most cases;
Breaking Strength: however, certain fibers may exhibit slow
Strip Test ASTM D5035 5 × 20 cm (2 × 8 in.) moisture equalization rates from the “as
Grab Test ASTM D5034 13 × 28 cm (5 × 7 in.) received” “wet side.” When this is
Single Strand ASTM D2256 15 cm (6 in.)
known, a preconditioning cycle, as de-
Bursting Strength: scribed in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac-
Woven Fabric ASTM D3786 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.) tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
Nonwoven Fabric ASTM D3786 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.)
ASTM D3787 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.) (see 14.1.12) may be agreed upon be-
Knit Fabric
tween contractual parties.
Tear Strength: 9.4 For each test to be made on the test
Elmendorf ASTM D1424 10 × 13 cm (4 × 5 in.)
Trapezoid ASTM D5587 10 × 18 cm (4 × 7 in.) material and control, exposed and unex-
posed, prepare test specimens by marking
Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor AATCC TM16.1 3 × 6 cm (1.25 × 2.4 in.)
and raveling or cutting the central portion
of each exposed specimen to the dimen-
sions specified in the respective test
viewed to ensure sufficient specimens are formed, the yarns are wound on the frame methods given in Table I. The marking
exposed for individual needs. closely packed to 2.5 cm (1.0 in.) width. and raveling or cutting of the test speci-
8.1.3 Unless otherwise specified, test The control specimens must contain the mens is preferred after the exposure but
specimens shall be a maximum thickness same number of strands as the specimen may be done before exposure. Control
of 25 mm (1 in.). For specimens over 25 subjected to exposure. After the exposure specimens not exposed are similarly pre-
mm (1 in.) thick, formed or configured has been completed and before the yarns pared. For samples exposed with wetting,
specimens, and large components, spe- are removed from the frame for testing, control specimens are wet-out and al-
cific instructions must be agreed upon be- those yarns facing the light source are lowed to dry without tension before test-
tween the purchaser and the supplier. bound together using 2.0 cm (0.75 in.) ing. All specimens, control and test, are
8.1.4 When required to prevent ravel- wide masking or other suitable tape to conditioned simultaneously to the stan-
ing, the specimens may be edged using a maintain the closely packed arrange- dard atmosphere for testing textiles for a
flexible epoxy resin or similar material, ments on the exposure frame. minimum of 24 h and preferably longer,
or by sewing, pinking or fusing. depending upon the material, and tested
8.1.5 Labeling each specimen is pre- at the same time.
9. Conditioning
ferred to provide a record of the changes
encountered at different radiant exposure 9.1 When the exposure cycle is com- 10. Procedure
levels. Retain an unexposed specimen for pleted, remove the test and control speci-
comparison to the exposed specimen. mens from the exposure rack and transfer 10.1 Mount on the exposure rack the
8.2 Mounting them to a standard atmosphere [air main- appropriate number of replicates (see
8.2.1 For Options A and B. To more tained at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± Section 8) of the specimens as required to
closely simulate specific end-use condi- 5% relative humidity] for testing textiles average out variability and to ensure ac-
tions, the cabinet backing materials for conditioning. curacy of results and the necessary num-
shown below have been found to be ac- 9.2 If the specimens are wet upon re- ber of replicates of the standard, when
ceptable: moval from the racks, dry them at ambi- such are available. The specimens shall
ent laboratory conditions or at a tempera- be so positioned as to avoid shadowing of
Cabinet Backing Materials ture not exceeding 71°C (160°F) before the specimens at the sides of the cabinet.
placing them in the conditioning atmo- 10.2 Expose the specimens to sunlight
Cabinet Approximate sphere. The unexposed reference stan- and the general elements of weather for a
End-Use Backing Temperatures prescribed period of time during which
dard (comparison standard) and the re-
Automotive Solid (Plywood) 82°C (180°F) tained unexposed original should be period the radiant energy may be re-
Household Expanded Metal 63°C (145°F) treated under exactly that same condi- corded, or when a prescribed amount of
(Drapery, etc.) tions of drying and conditioning as the radiant exposure has been attained as de-
Clothing None (Open) 43°C (110°F) test specimens. termined by an applicable specification
and Sensitive 9.3 Bring all specimens, control and (see 15.7, 15.8 and 15.9) using a pyra-
Materials test, to moisture equilibrium in the stan- nometer and UV radiometer.
Fabric Roof None (Open) 43°C (110°F) dard atmosphere for testing textiles. 10.2.1 For Option A, Direct Exposure
Structures to Daylight and Weathering, use Direct
Equilibrium is considered to have been
reached when the increase in mass of the Exposure Rack described in Section A2
8.2.2 Fabrics. Secure the specimens to specimen in successive weightings made of Appendix A.
the frames to hold them smoothly without at intervals of not less than 2 h does not 10.2.2 For Option B, Behind Glass
curling of the edges. Fabrics may be exceed 0.2% of the mass of the specimen. Exposure to Natural Light without Wet-
stitched to gauze backing. For colorfast- In general practice, the industry ap- ting, use cabinet described in Section A3
ness determinations, mount the speci- proaches equilibrium from the “as re- of Appendix A. Ensure that the face of
mens in frames as directed in AATCC ceived” side. the exposed standard(s) and test speci-
TM16.1. 9.3.1 It is recognized that, in practice, men(s) are at least 7.5 cm (3 in.) below
8.2.3 Yarns. Wind yarns on frames. textile materials are frequently not the inside surface of the glass cover and
Only that portion of the yarns directly weighed to determine when moisture are positioned at least 15 cm (6 in.) in
facing the radiant energy is tested for equilibrium has been reached. While from the edges of the glass frame. The
breaking strength. Single strand or multi- such a procedure cannot be accepted in back of the exposure cabinet may be var-
ple strand testing is performed. When cases of dispute, it may be sufficient in ied as follows to achieve the required ex-
multiple strand testing may be per- routine testing to expose the material to posure conditions:

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM111-2022 197
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Backing Exposure Condition dard is determined by the following: As the use of wet breaking, tearing, or burst-
durable or more durable than the coming strength tests in lieu of or to comple-
Open Low Temperature parison sample at the amount of radiant ment those tests done under standard tex-
Expanded Metal Medium Temperature exposures and/or exposure time period tile testing conditions. Such conditions of
Solid High Temperature prescribed in the material standard; or test shall be reported along with the data.
less durable than the comparison sample
10.3 Expose standard(s) and speci- at the amount of radiant exposure and/or 13. Precision and Bias
men(s) 24 h a day and remove for inspec- exposure time period prescribed in the
tion or for physical properties testing. material standard. 13.1 This test method may be used for
10.4 Monitor temperature and relative 11.1.5 For the purpose of defining the acceptance testing of commercial ship-
humidity in the vicinity of the test cabi- relative durability of a test material to an ments. However, caution is advised since
nets or racks. agreed upon comparison standard an in- information about between-laboratory
10.5 Conduct physical test using the dex, SnX, defined as the ratio of the per- precision shows a high variability be-
test methods listed in Section 14, as ap- cent residual strength in the tested speci- tween results. Interlaboratory testing us-
plicable. men to that of the untested material, may ing Option A (Daylight) showed a high
10.5.1 Average the data for the various be used. With the index a specimen is variability between results for samples
replicates, or handle statistically as ap- considered to be as resistant to degrada- exposed at different times of the year. Ef-
propriate, and record the value of break- tion as the standard when the SnX value is forts to minimize the seasonal effect by
ing, tearing, or bursting strength retention 1; more durable when the SnX index ex- time versus irradiance test duration did
and/or colorfastness after exposure in re- ceeds 1; less durable when the SnX index not compensate for this phenomenon for
lation to original strength or color, as ap- all fabrics. For some fabrics, exposure to
is less than 1.
plicable. It is appropriate to record the a specific level of irradiance may result in
NOTE: An index of this nature has a lower variation of results, while for
percent elongation characteristics of the
particular value when recording the rela- other fabrics little difference may be seen
unexposed controls and exposed speci-
tive durability of a series of materials to a between time and irradiance exposure.
mens at rupture or at some prescribed
common standard and can be actually Further, the nature of the fabric, its finish
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

point in the force-elongation curve as this

more useful in research than in the rou- or coating and the climate may affect the
is frequently significant supplementary
tine assessment of the durability of mate- results. It is strongly recommended to be-
information.
rials for purpose of commerce. gin exposures at the same time of the year
11. Evaluation for comparative purposes. This may min-
12. Report imize the seasonal effect.
11.1 Classify the durability or resis- 13.1.1 In case of a dispute arising from
tance to degradation of the material with 12.1 Use the guide below and report all differences in reported test results when
respect to the standard of comparison by applicable information: using this test method for acceptance test-
one of the following: 12.2 Report any deviation from ing of commercial shipments, the pur-
11.1.1 Percent Strength Retained or AATCC TM111 or the performance of chaser and the supplier should conduct
Percent Strength Loss. Record percent the comparison standard. comparative tests to determine if there is
strength loss or percent strength retained 12.3 Report all information in 12.1 for a statistical bias between their laborato-
(breaking, tearing, or bursting as appro- the same conditions that the samples and ries. Statistical analysis is recommended
priate) of the material after the prescribed reference materials are exposed. for the investigation of bias. As a mini-
exposure time period. 12.4 Report all applicable properties mum, the two parties should take a group
11.1.2 Residual Strength. Record the evaluated in Section 11 (also see 15.10). of test specimens that are as homoge-
initial and final strength values along 12.5 Report the direction of the test neous as possible and that are from a lot
with all other pertinent data as above. specimens if not in warp direction. of material of the type in question. Test
11.1.3 Colorfastness. Classify the col- 12.6 Under certain conditions, by specimens should then be randomly as-
orfastness of the material as directed in agreement between principals to a trans- signed in equal numbers to each labora-
AATCC TM16.1 action, tearing strength of the material tory for testing. The average results from
11.1.4 In Terms of an Agreed upon can be used in lieu of, or to complement, the two laboratories should be compared
Comparison Sample or Standard. Dura- the breaking or bursting strength. The using the appropriate Student’s t-test and
bility of the sample in terms of the stan- material specification may further define an acceptable probability level chosen by

Exposure Option (A or B) ______________________________

Geographical Location ________________________________________________________________________
Exposure Date: From __________________________________ to ________________________________
Radiant Energy: _______________________________________
Exposure Latitude _____________________________________ Exposure Angle ____________________
Exposed behind window glass: Yes ________ No _______ If Yes, Type ______________________
Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum ____________°C Maximum ____________°C Avg._______ °C
Daily Black Panel Temperature: Minimum ____________°C Maximum ____________°C Avg._______ °C
Daily Relative Humidity %: Minimum ______________ Maximum ______________ Avg. ________
Moisture: Rain Amount (mm)_______
Time of Wetness (hrs): Rain plus Condensation________________________________________

198 AATCC TM111-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
the two parties before testing is begun. If statement can be made about two specific 14.2.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce-
a bias is found either its cause must be laboratories, the amount of statistical dure for Instrumental Assessment of the
found and corrected, or the purchaser and bias, if any, between them must be estab- Change in Color of a Test Specimen.
the supplier must agree to interpret future lished with each comparison being based 14.3 ISO Standards (see 3.4, 3.12 and
test results for that material with consid- on recent data obtained on specimens 3.30
eration for the known bias. taken from a lot of material of the type 14.3.1 ISO 9370 Plastics – Instrumen-
13.1.2 Interlaboratory Test Data, being evaluated so as to be as nearly ho- tal Determination of Radiant Energy in
Breaking Strength Determinations. An mogeneous as possible and then ran- Weathering Tests – General Guidance.
interlaboratory test was conducted in domly assigned in equal numbers to each
1990 and 1991 in which randomly drawn of the laboratories. 15. Notes
samples of six materials were tested at 13.5. Bias. The values of weather resis-
three exposure sites in each, southern tance can only be defined in terms of a 15.1 For potential equipment information
Florida and Arizona, in accordance with specific test method. Within this limita- pertaining to this test method, please visit the
tion, the procedure in AATCC TM111 for online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
AATCC TM111B. NOTE: Previous ver- aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
sions of AATCC TM111 contain actual measuring weather resistance of textiles of listing equipment and materials sold by its
tabular data for the precision and bias. using breaking strength criteria has no Corporate members, but AATCC does not
13.2 Interlaboratory Test Data, Sum- known bias. qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
mary. Interlaboratory testing using Op- tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
tion B (Daylight) showed a high variabil- 14. References als meets the requirements in its test methods.
ity between results for samples exposed 15.2 Refer to ASTM G7 and G24 for guid-
at different times of the year. Efforts to 14.1 ASTM Standards (see 15.11). ance on test cabinet selection (see 14.1). Refer
14.1.1 D5034, Test Method for Break- to ASTM G24 for guidance on window glass
minimize the seasonal effect by time ver- selection (see 14.1).
sus irradiance test duration did not coming Force and Elongation of Textile Fab-
rics (Grab Test). 15.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as
pensate for this phenomenon for all fab- when specified in an applicable material spec-
rics. For some fabrics, exposure to a 14.1.2 D5035, Test Method for Break- ification, take a number of specimens such
specific level of irradiance may result in a ing Force and Elongation of Textile Fab- that the user may expect at the 95% probabil-
lower variation of results, while for some rics (Strip Test). ity level that the test result is not more than
fabrics little difference may be seen be- 14.1.3 D2256, Test Method for Tensile 5.0% of the average above the true average of
tween time and irradiance exposure. Fur- Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand the lot. Determine the number of specimens
ther, for some, the nature of the fabric, its Method. using standard deviation with one-sided limits
14.1.4 D3787, Test Method for Burst- as directed in ASTM D2905.
finish or coating and the climate may ef- 15.4 Pile fabrics, such as carpets, which
fect the results. Differences between lab- ing Strength of Knitted Goods-Constant-
have fibers that may shift position, or texture
oratories were small as shown by the Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test. which may make evaluations in small areas
zero, or near-zero components of vari- 14.1.5 D3786, Test Method for Hy- difficult should be tested with an exposed area
ance reported in Tables II and III. The draulic or Pneumatic Bursting Strength of of not less than approximately 40.0 mm (1.6
higher values for between-laboratory Textile Fabrics-Diaphragm Bursting in.) by 50.0 mm (2.0 in.). Expose sufficient
critical differences reported in Tables IV Strength Tester Method. size or multiple specimens to include all col-
and V were driven by the high values for 14.1.6 D1424, Test Method for Tearing ors in the sample.
between seasonal quarter exposures. Strength of Fabrics by Falling Pendulum 15.5 In general, the warp direction is used,
Consequently, it is strongly recom- (Elmendorf) Apparatus. but the filling direction may be used in con-
junction or in place of the warp direction when
mended to begin exposures for Options A 14.1.7 D5587, Test Method for Tearing specified. Warp yarns sometimes are protected
and B at the same time of the year for Strength of Fabrics by Trapezoid Proce- from the radiation due to fabric structure.
comparative purposes. This may mini- dure. When the filling direction is used, it must be
mize the seasonal effect and components 14.1.8 E903-1996, Test Method for So- reported.
of variance would more likely be repre- lar Absorptance, Reflectance, and Trans- 15.6 Specimen frames must be made from
sented by the single operator precision. mittance of Materials Using Integrating suitably inert materials that will not contami-
13.4 Precision. For the components of Spheres. nate the specimens. When specimens are fas-
variance reported in Tables II and III, two 14.1.9 E824, Standard Test Method for tened with staples, they should be of the
Transfer of Calibration from Reference to nonferrous type overcoated to avoid contami-
averages of observed values should be nation of the specimen by corrosion products.
considered significantly different at the Field Pyranometers. Metal frames must have a dull finish and be
95% probability level if the difference 14.1.10 G24, Standard Practice for designed to avoid reflectances that could in-
equals or exceeds the critical differences Conducting Exposures to Daylight Fil- fluence the performance of the material.
listed in Tables IV and V. tered through Glass. Frames shall conform to the curvature of the
NOTE 1: The square roots of the com- 14.1.11 D2905, Standard Practice for specimen rack. The size of the frame is deter-
ponents of variance are being reported to Statements on Number of Specimens for mined by the type specimens required for indi-
Textiles. vidual property requirements.
express the variability as a percent for Ta-
14.1.12 D1776, Standard Practice for 15.7 Refer to ASTM G183 for guidance on
ble II and as units of measure for Table III, pyranometers used for measuring total sun-
rather than the square of those values. Crit- Conditioning and Testing Textiles. light radiant energy and on UV radiometers
ical differences were calculated using z 14.1.13 G7, Standard Practice for At- used for measuring total UV radiant energy
=1,960. mospheric Environmental Exposure Test- from 295-385 nm of sunlight (see 14.1).
NOTE 2: Since the interlaboratory test ing of Nonmetallic Materials. 15.8 Internationally recommended units for
included only three laboratories for each 14.1.14 G183, Standard Practice for measuring and reporting radiant energy, fac-
geographical location, estimates of be- Field use of Pyranometers, Pyrheliome- tors to be used when converting from one unit
tween-laboratory precision should be ters and UV Radiometers. to another and pyranometer/radiometer de-
14.2 AATCC Test Methods (see 15.12). scriptions and classifications are taken from
used with special caution. The tabulated Guide to Meteorological Instrument and Ob-
values of the critical differences should 14.2.1 AATCC TM16.1, Test Method serving Practices, World Meteorological Or-
be considered to be a general statement, for Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor. ganization, WMO-No. 8 TP.3.
particularly with respect to between-labo- 14.2.2 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- 15.9 Refer to ASTM G183 for guidance on
ratory precision. Before a meaningful dure for Gray Scale for Color Change. pyranometers used for measuring global (total

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM111-2022 199
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Breaking Strength after Weathering ASTM D5035, Strip Procedure

Components of Variance, Coefficient of Variation, %

Grand Average Single Operator Within-Laboratory Between-Laboratory
Fabric Exposure Location Pounds Component Component Component
3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ
MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 204 203 4.2 5.3 9.2 6.7 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 201 201 4.0 3.7 3.2 4.7 0 0
MIL-C-7219
ARIZONA 150 162 4.2 5.4 46.6 31.6 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 183 182 6.0 6.7 31.4 19.2 0 0
MIL-C43285-B
ARIZONA 236 244 10.3 6.5 26.6 19.8 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 246 248 8.5 6.6 18.0 12.2 0 0
MIL-C-4362-7A
ARIZONA 64 69 4.1 3.9 13.8 14.4 4.8 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 79 77 3.6 4.2 4.5 7.4 0.1 0
ALLIED A-609-029-D
ARIZONA 248 265 10.8 12.7 81.9 55.1 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 286 284 9.9 17.0 46.2 33.6 0 0
MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 210 211 4.6 3.9 7.2 6.8 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 208 208 4.6 6.0 3.2 4.5 0 0

NOTE: Within-laboratory component represents variation between quarterly exposure start times.

Table III—Instrumental Color Measurement, ΔE, After Weathering (AATCC EP6)

Components of Variance, Standard Deviation, Units of Measure, Single Material Comparison

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Grand Average Single Operator Within-Laboratory Between-Laboratory

Fabric Exposure Location Pounds Component Component Component
3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ
MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 2.00 1.88 0.19 0.14 0.61 0.49 0.15 0.10
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 2.14 2.07 0.09 0.19 0.47 0.43 0.11 0.23
MIL-C-7219
ARIZONA 8.99 8.40 1.60 1.13 2.56 1.24 0 0.90
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 7.89 8.00 0.78 1.41 1.34 0 0 0
MIL-C43285-B
ARIZONA 1.45 0.94 0.27 0.47 0.19 0.31 0.13 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 2.30 2.25 0.27 0.52 0.39 0 0.08 0
MIL-C-4362-7A
ARIZONA 5.77 5.77 1.88 1.55 0.94 0.61 0 1.58
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 0.78 0.88 0.17 0.22 0 0 0 0
ALLIED A-609-029-D
ARIZONA 14.2 13.2 0.78 0.90 5.23 2.28 0.42 0.92
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 11.9 11.8 0.72 0.98 1.94 1.37 0.51 0.80
MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 2.99 2.88 0.51 0.83 0.65 0 0 0
SOUTHERN FLORIDA 5.37 5.41 0.72 0.92 1.68 1.48 0 0

NOTE: Within-laboratory component represents variation between quarterly exposure start times.

200 AATCC TM111-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Breaking Strength After Weathering, ASTM D5035, Strip Procedure

Critical Difference for Conditions Noted, % of Average

Number of
Observations
in Each Single-Operator Within Quarterly Between-Laboratory
Fabric Exposure Location Average Component Exposure Component Component

3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ

MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 1 5.7 7.2 13.7 11.6 13.7 11.6
2 4.1 5.1 13.1 10.4 13.1 10.4
5 2.7 3.2 12.7 9.7 12.7 9.7

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 5.5 5.0 10.5 8.3 10.5 8.3

2 3.9 3.6 9.8 7.5 9.8 7.5
5 2.5 2.3 9.3 6.9 9.3 6.9

MIL-C-7219
ARIZONA 1 7.9 9.2 86.5 54.9 86.5 54.9
2 5.6 6.5 86.3 54.5 86.3 54.5
5 3.5 4.1 86.2 54.3 86.2 54.3

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 9.0 10.2 48.5 31.0 48.5 31.0

2 6.4 7.2 48.1 30.1 48.1 30.1
5 4.0 4.6 47.8 29.6 47.8 29.6

MIL-C43285-B
ARIZONA 1 12.1 7.4 33.5 23.7 33.5 23.7
2 8.5 5.2 32.3 23.1 32.4 23.1
5 5.4 3.3 31.7 22.8 31.7 22.8

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 9.6 7.4 22.4 15.5 22.4 15.5

2 6.8 5.2 21.4 14.6 21.4 14.6
5 4.3 3.3 20.7 14.1 20.7 14.1

MIL-C-4362-7A
ARIZONA 1 17.9 15.8 62.7 59.9 66.2 59.9
2 12.6 11.1 61.4 58.9 65.0 58.8
5 8.0 7.0 60.7 58.2 64.2 58.2

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 12.7 15.2 20.4 30.8 20.4 30.8

2 9.0 10.8 18.2 28.8 18.3 28.8
5 5.7 6.8 16.9 27.6 16.9 27.6

ALLIED A-609-029-D
ARIZONA 1 12.1 13.3 92.3 59.1 92.3 59.1
2 8.5 9.4 91.9 58.4 91.9 58.4
5 5.4 6.0 91.7 57.9 91.7 57.9

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 9.6 16.6 45.8 36.7 45.8 36.7

2 6.8 11.7 45.3 34.8 45.3 34.8
5 4.3 7.4 45.0 33.6 45.0 33.6

MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 1 6.0 5.1 11.3 10.3 11.3 10.3
2 4.3 3.6 10.4 9.6 10.4 9.6
5 2.7 2.3 9.9 9.2 9.9 9.2

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 6.1 8.0 7.4 10.9 7.4 10.0

2 4.3 5.6 6.0 8.3 6.0 8.3
5 2.7 3.6 5.0 7.0 5.0 7.0
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM111-2022 201
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table V—Instrumental Color Measurement, ΔE, After Weathering (AATCC EP6)

Critical Difference for Conditions Noted, Standard Deviation, Units of Measure

Number of
Observations
in Each Single-Operator Within Quarterly Between-Laboratory
Fabric Exposure Location Average Component Exposure Component Component

3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ 3 MO. 75 kJ

MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 1 0.52 0.40 1.76 1.42 1.81 1.44
2 0.37 0.28 1.72 1.39 1.77 1.41
5 0.23 0.18 1.70 1.37 1.75 1.40

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 0.25 0.53 1.33 1.30 1.36 1.45

2 0.18 0.37 1.32 1.25 1.35 1.40
5 0.13 0.24 1.31 1.21 1.34 1.37

MIL-C-7219
ARIZONA 1 4.43 3.14 8.37 4.66 8.37 5.28
2 3.13 2.22 7.76 4.10 7.76 4.79
5 1.98 1.40 7.37 3.72 7.37 4.47

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 2.17 3.90 4.29 3.90 4.29 3.90

2 1.53 2.75 4.01 2.75 4.01 2.75
5 0.97 1.74 3.83 1.74 3.83 1.74

MIL-C43285-B
ARIZONA 1 0.76 1.32 0.92 1.58 0.99 1.58
2 0.54 0.93 0.75 1.27 0.83 1.27
5 0.34 0.59 0.63 1.05 0.72 1.05

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 0.74 1.44 1.30 1.44 1.32 1.44

2 0.52 1.02 1.19 1.02 1.21 1.02
5 0.33 0.64 1.12 0.64 1.14 0.64

MIL-C-4362-7A
ARIZONA 1 5.20 4.28 5.82 4.60 5.82 6.36
2 3.68 3.02 4.51 3.46 4.51 5.59
5 2.32 1.92 3.50 2.55 3.50 5.08

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 0.47 0.60 0.47 0.60 0.47 0.60

2 0.34 0.42 0.34 0.42 0.34 0.42
5 0.21 0.27 0.21 0.27 0.21 0.27

ALLIED A-609-029-D
ARIZONA 1 2.16 2.49 14.7 6.79 14.7 7.25
2 1.52 1.76 14.6 6.56 14.6 7.03
5 0.96 1.12 14.5 6.41 14.6 6.90

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 1.98 2.72 5.72 4.67 5.89 5.17

2 1.40 1.93 5.55 4.26 5.72 4.79
5 0.89 1.22 5.44 3.99 5.62 4.56

MIL-C-44103
ARIZONA 1 1.41 2.30 2.29 2.30 2.29 2.30
2 1.00 1.63 2.06 1.63 2.06 1.63
5 0.71 1.03 1.93 1.03 1.93 1.03

SOUTHERN FLORIDA 1 2.00 2.56 5.06 4.83 5.06 4.83

2 1.41 1.81 4.86 4.48 4.86 4.48
5 0.89 1.14 4.74 4.26 4.74 4.26
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,````

202 AATCC TM111-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
sun and sky) radiation (see 14.1). characterize the conditions around the transmittance of the glass is measured,
15.10 A difference in color change proper- test frame, these instruments should be report the average for at least three pieces
ties between original material and the covered capable of recording: ambient tempera- of the lot of glass being tested. Follow the
portion of the exposed specimen indicates that ture (daily minimum and maximum), instructions for measurement of transmit-
the textile has been affected by some agent Black Panel temperature, relative humid-
other than light, such as heat or a reactive gas
tance of solid samples recommended by
in the atmosphere. Although the exact cause ity (daily minimum and maximum), the manufacturer of the UV-visible spec-
of this difference in color may not be known, hours of precipitation (rain), and total trophotometer used. If a spectrophotome-
it should be noted in the report when it occurs. hours of wetness (rain and dew). ter with an integrating sphere is used, the
15.11 Available from ASTM International, A1.4 Other methods of radiation mea- measurements shall be performed in ac-
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA surement may be used when mutually cordance with ASTM E903 (1996) (see
19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. agreed between principals to a transac- 14.1 and 15.11).
9555; web site: www. astm.org. tion. Total ultraviolet radiation (typically
15.12 Available from AATCC, PO Box A3.2 The enclosure or cabinet shall be
from 295-385 nm) reported in MJ/m2 has equipped with a rack which supports the
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: been used in the past, however, the rela-
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e- specimens in a plane parallel to that of
tive degradative effect of a given amount the glass cover with the face of the speci-
mail: ordering@ aatcc.org; web site:
www.aatcc.org. of radiant energy obtained at different lo- men at a distance below it of not less than
cales in different seasons may be found to 75.0 mm (3.0 in.). The specimen mount-
be different due to temperature and mois- ing rack shall be constructed of a material
16. History ture effects and to variations in ratios of
that is compatible with the test speci-
16.1 Revised in 2022 for clarity and to add UV, visible and infrared components.
mens. It may be either the open type pro-
the History section. viding good ventilation on the back side
16.2 Editorially revised 2019, 2016; revised
2015;reaffirmed and editorially revised 2009;
A2. Option A-Daylight Exposure with of the specimen, or of a solid material as
editorially revised 2008, 2007; revised Wetting required. To minimize shadows from the
2003(with title change). top and the sides of the cabinet, the us-
A2.1 Exposure racks. A suitable expo- able exposure area under glass shall be
16.3 Developed in 1996 by AATCC Com-
mittee RA64 to supersede 111A-1990, 111B- sure rack consists of a structure elevated limited to that of the glass cover reduced
1990, 111C-1990 and 111D-1990 originally de- above ground facing the equator. The an- by twice the distance from the cover to
veloped in 1964 and last revised/reaffirmed in gle of the rack from the horizontal must the specimens.
1990; jurisdiction transferred in 2007 to Com- be at the same angle as the location at
mittee RA50. which the tests are made or any angle, A3.3 The glass cover and the test spec-
such as 45°, when agreed upon. When the imen shall slope toward the equator at an
specimens are mounted on the rack with- angle from the horizontal equal in de-
Appendix A
out backing there must be free air access grees to approximately the latitude of the
Apparatus and Material-Daylight Exposure
to the back of the specimens at all times. location at which the tests are being
A2.2 Under certain conditions, to sim- made. Other angles of exposure, such as
A1. General Conditions, Daylight 45°, may be used, but the angle must be
Exposure, Options A and B ulate certain conditions of end-use when
specified, expose specimens with a back- reported in the results of test.
A1.1 The cabinet or rack shall be lo- ing. Report that a backing was used, the A3.4 If required to characterize the
cated where it will receive direct sunlight type and its specific nature. Exposures conditions within the test frame, instru-
throughout the day and where shadows of are continuous 24 h a day until the re- ments should be capable of recording:
objects in the vicinity will not fall upon it. quired exposure has been attained. ambient temperature under glass (daily
When the cabinet or rack is installed over minimum and maximum), Black Panel
soil, the distance between the bottom of Temperature under glass, total radiant en-
A3. Option B-Behind Glass Daylight
the cabinet or rack and the plane of the Exposure Cabinet and Location,
ergy and ultraviolet radiant exposure (ei-
cleared area shall be great enough to pre- Without Wetting
ther broad or narrow bandpass) at the
vent damage which could possibly occur same angle of exposure as the test speci-
during maintenance (grass cutting, re- A3.1 The daylight exposure cabinet mens, and relative humidity (daily mini-
graveling, weed control, etc.). shall consist of a glass-covered enclosure mum and maximum).
A1.2 Exposure cabinets or racks shall of any convenient size constructed of A3.5 If required, an ultraviolet radiom-
be located in clear areas, preferably at a metal, wood or other satisfactory material eter shall be used to measure irradiance,
suitable number of climatologically dif- to protect the specimens from rain and and connected to an integrator for com-
ferent sites representing the various con- weather and be well ventilated to allow puting ultraviolet radiant exposure. The
ditions under which the material will be free flow of air over the specimens. The ultraviolet radiometer shall be mounted
used. Major climatological variations in- glass cover shall be a sheet 2.0-3.2 mm behind glass of the same type used in the
clude subtropical, desert, seashore (salt thick piece of good grade, clear and flat- exposure cabinet, or equivalent, in a ven-
air), industrial atmosphere and areas ex- drawn. In order to reduce variability due tilated enclosure to avoid overheating the
hibiting a wide range in percentage of to changes in UV transmission of glass, instrument. The enclosure containing the
available sunshine. The area beneath and all new glass shall be exposed facing the radiometer shall maintain the same orien-
in the vicinity of the cabinets or racks equator, at the site latitude angle, accord- tation as the test cabinet. Two different
should be characterized by low reflec- ing to ASTM G24, or an empty under types of radiometers may be used:
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

tance and be typical of the ground cover glass exposure cabinet, for at least three
in that climatological area. In desert ar- months prior to installation in test cabi- A3.5.1 A broad-band ultraviolet (UV)
eas, it should be gravel whereas in most nets. It shall be single strength, free of radiometer (see 15.7, 15.8 and 15.9), an
temperate and subtropical areas, it should bubbles or other imperfections. Typically, instrument which measures irradiance at
be low cut grass. “single strength” or “double strength” wavelengths 295-385 nm per ISO 9370
A1.3 Instruments for determining cli- glass will have a transmittance of 10- A3.5.2 A narrow-band ultraviolet radi-
matological data during the exposure pe- 20% at 320 nm and at least 85% at wave- ometer (see 15.7, 15.8 and 15.9), instru-
riod shall be operated in the immediate lengths of 380 nm or higher after the ment which measures irradiance centered
area of the exposure cabinets or racks. To three month pre-aging procedure. If at a wavelength of 340 ± 2 nm.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM111-2022 203
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM112-2020

Test Method for Formaldehyde Release

from Fabric: Sealed Jar
1. Purpose and Scope sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use promotes formaldehyde release from
safe and proper techniques in handling odor-free, fully cured durable press fab-
1.1 This test method is applicable to materials in this test method. Manufac- rics that have been afterwashed (Vail, S.
textile fabrics that may release formalde- turers MUST be consulted for specific L. and B. A. K. Andrews, Textile Chemist
hyde, particularly fabrics finished with details such as material safety data sheets and Colorist, Vol. 11, No. 1, January
chemicals containing formaldehyde. It and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 1979, p48). For these reasons, the proce-
provides accelerated storage conditions tions. All OSHA standards and rules dure should not be used to estimate µg/g
and an analytical means for determining must also be consulted and followed. formaldehyde in air for compliance with
the amount of formaldehyde released un- 4.1 Good laboratory practice should be any mandated or voluntary standards.
der the conditions of accelerated storage followed. Wear safety glasses in all labo- The procedure was originally developed
(see Section 5 and 10.1). This test method ratory areas. to measure the “propensity of a resin-
determines free and hydrolyzed formal- treated fabric to liberate an excessive
dehyde and any-additional formaldehyde 4.2 When handling glacial acetic acid
to prepare Nash reagent, use chemical amount of formaldehyde under hot, hu-
which may be generated under acceler- mid conditions.” (Nuessle, A. C., Ameri-
ated storage conditions. goggles or face shield, impervious gloves
and an impervious apron during prepara- can Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 55, No. 17,
1.2 An optional accelerated incubation 1966, pp48-50; also Reid, J. D., R. L. Ar-
tion. Concentrated acids should be han-
procedure is available (see 13.6). cenaux, R. M. Reinhardt and J. A. Harris,
dled only in an adequately ventilated lab-
1.3 An optional submersion method oratory hood. CAUTION: Always add American Dyestuff Reporter, Vol. 49, No.
which approximates the amount of hy- acid to water. 14, 1960, pp29-34.)
drolyzed formaldehyde while closely 5.2 Alternatively, Test Method 206,
simulating normal user conditions is 4.3 Formaldehyde is a sensory irritant
and potential sensitizer. Its chronic toxic- Free and Hydrolyzed Formaldehyde, De-
AATCC TM 206. termination of: Water Extraction Method
ity has not been fully established. Use in
an adequately ventilated laboratory hood. determines free and hydrolyzed formal-
2. Principle Avoid inhalation or skin contact. Use dehyde on the fabric from 20 µg/g up to
chemical goggles or face shield, impervi- about 3500 µg/g. This method approxi-
2.1 A weighed fabric specimen is sus-
ous gloves and an impervious apron mates hydrolyzed formaldehyde and
pended over water in a sealed jar. The jar
when working with formaldehyde (see closely simulates normal user condi-
is placed in an oven at a controlled tem-
8.1). tions. The appropriate test should be
perature for a specified length of time
4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should based on that distinction. However, since
(see 13.5). The amount of formaldehyde
be located nearby and a self-contained TM 206 is an aqueous immersion
absorbed by the water is then determined
method, fabrics with a propensity for dye
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

colorimetrically. breathing apparatus should be readily

available for emergency use. bleeding could be of concern; if the dye
4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this has an absorbance in the range of 412
3. Terminology nm, it could interfere with the spectro-
procedure must be controlled at or below
3.1 formaldehyde release, n.—That levels set by governmental authorities photometer measurement. TM 112 does
formaldehyde exuded from textiles under (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health not use aqueous immersion; therefore
the accelerated storage conditions of this Administration’s [OSHA] permissible there is less chance for dye contamination
test, including that which is free (un- exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29 interfering with the spectrophotometer
bound or occluded) from unreacted CFR 1910.1000; see web site: measurement.
chemicals, or from finish degradation as www.osha.gov for latest version). In ad-
a result of this test. dition, the American Conference of Gov- 6. Apparatus and Materials
3.2 free formaldehyde, n.—Formal- ernmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH)
dehyde that is not bonded to a finish or a Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) com- 6.1 Clear glass jars, Mason or equiva-
fabric is considered to be free formalde- prised of time weighted averages (TLV- lent canning jars, 0.95 L (1 qt) and gas
hyde. In this form, formaldehyde can be TWA), short term exposure limits (TLV- sealing caps. These are clear, square glass
readily extracted from the fabric by im- STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are jars with approximate dimensions of 9
mersion in water. recommended as a general guide for air cm wide × 17 cm tall, contain approxi-
3.3 hydrolyzed formaldehyde, n— contaminant exposure which should be mately 1L and have a screw on lid.
Although originally part of a larger met (see 13.7). 6.2 Small wire mesh baskets (or other
chemical structure, such as a crosslinking suitable means for suspending fabric
reactant, during the course of this test the 5. Uses and Limitations above the water level inside the jars; see
formaldehyde is cleaved from the larger 13.2). As an alternative to the wire mesh
molecule and dissolved into water. 5.1 The procedure is intended for use baskets, a double strand of sewing thread
in the range of releasable formaldehyde may be used to make a loop in the fabric
4. Safety Precautions on hydrophobic and non-hydrophobic that has been folded in half twice, sus-
fabrics up to about 3500 µg/g. The upper pended above the water level. The two
NOTE: These safety precautions are limits are 500 µg/g if a 1:1 ratio of Nash double-thread ends are draped over the
for information purposes only. The pre- reagent to sample solution is used in the top of the jar and held securely by the jar
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- analytical portion of the test and 3500 µg/ cap.
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- g if a 10:1 ratio is used. The procedure 6.3 Weighing balance, with minimum

204 AATCC TM112-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
sensitivity of 0.01 g. used to prepare standard dilutions. A 1:10 9. Test Specimens
6.4 Thermostatically controlled oven, dilution of the standardized formalde-
49 ± 1°C (120 ± 2°F) (see 13.6). hyde stock solution is prepared by pipet- 9.1 Samples should immediately be
6.5 Nash reagent prepared from ammo- ting 25.0 ± 0.03 mL of the standardized placed into separate zipper-type closure
nium acetate, acetic acid and acetylace- stock solution into a 250-mL volumetric plastic bags when sampled or cut from
tone and water (see 7.1). flask and diluting to the mark with deion- rolls. As an extra precaution for main-
6.6 Formaldehyde solution, approxi- ized water. When the stock solution is ti- taining their original state the samples
mately 37%. trated, the concentration is determined in may be wrapped in aluminum foil before
6.7 Volumetric flasks: 50, 250, 500 and µg/mL, prepare the calibration curves by: being placed in the plastic bags.
1000-mL, Class A 9.2 Cut approximately 1-g specimens;
8.1.1 Pipette 5.0, 10.0, 15.0, 20.0 and weigh each one to ± 0.01 g. Perform in
6.8 Volumetric pipettes: 5, 10, 15, 20, 30.0-mL of the 1:10 dilution into a 500-
25, 30 and 50-mL volumetric pipettes, all duplicate for each sample. If there is a de-
mL volumetric flask and dilute to mark lay in testing the 1-g specimens once they
meeting Class A volume accuracy and with deionized water. (If, for example,
flow time requirements (see 13.3). Or a are cut, they should be put back into the
the standardized stock solution were zipper-type closure plastic bags (and re-
digital, variable volume pipette capable found to be 1470 µg/mL by titration, cal-
of meeting Class A requirements. wrapped in foil if previously done) until
culate new values for the calibration testing commences.
6.9 A 1-L clean, brown glass bottle curve abscissa, i.e., 1.47, 2.94, 4.41, 5.88,
with lid. 8.82 µg/mL using linear regression anal-
6.10 Spectrophotometer, capable of ysis.) 10. Procedures
reading absorbance to minimum of three
decimal places at wavelength of 412 nm 8.2 When 5.0, 10.0, 15.0, 20.0 and 10.1 Pipette 50.0-mL of deionized wa-
(see 10.6). 30.0-mL aliquots of the 1:10 dilution of ter in the bottom of each jar. Suspend one
6.11 Test tubes (see 13.3). the standardized stock solution from 8.1 fabric specimen above the water in each
6.11 Water bath; general purpose and are diluted with deionized water in 500- jar, using a wire mesh basket or other
temperature controlled (see 10.5). mL volumetric flasks, formaldehyde so- means (see Fig. 1). Seal the jars and place
6.12 Distilled or deionized water. lutions containing approximately 1.5, 3.0, them in the oven at 49 ± 1°C (120 ± 2°F)
Hereafter, referred to as deionized water. 4.5, 6.0 and 9.0 µg/mL formaldehyde, re- for 20 h ± 10 min (see 13.6). A control of
spectively will be obtained. Record accu- an empty basket (no fabric) in a jar with
7. Preparation of Nash Reagent rately the concentration of solutions. The 50-mL of deionized water may also be
equivalent concentrations of the formal- used.
7.1 In a 1000-mL volumetric flask, dis- dehyde in the test fabric based on the 10.2 Remove and cool the jars for at
solve 150.0 ± 0.1 g of ammonium acetate weight of 1.0 g of the test fabric and 50.0- least 30 min.
in about 800-mL of deionized water; add mL of water in the test jars will be 50 10.3 Remove the fabric and baskets, or
3.0 ± 0.1 mL of glacial acetic acid and times the accurate concentrations of these other support, from the jars. Recap the
2.0 ± 0.1 mL of acetylacetone. Make up standard solutions. jars and shake them to mix any condensa-
to the mark with deionized water and 8.3 Use 5.0-mL aliquots of each of the tion formed on the jar sides.
mix. Store in a capped brown bottle. standard solutions and the procedure de- 10.4 Pipette 5.0-mL of Nash reagent
7.2 The reagent darkens in color scribed in 10.4-10.7 to prepare a calibra- into a suitable number of test tubes then
slightly on standing over the first 12 h. tion chart in which µg/mL formaldehyde add 5.0-mL aliquots from each of the
For this reason the reagent should be held are plotted against absorbance. sample incubation jars to the tubes also
12 h before use. Otherwise, the reagent is
usable over a considerable period of time,
at least 6-8 weeks. However, since the
sensitivity may change slightly over a
long period of time, it is good practice to
run a calibration curve weekly to correct
for slight changes in the standard curve.

8. Preparation of Standard Solution and

Calibration (Caution)
8.1 Prepare an approximately 1500 µg/
mL stock solution of formaldehyde by di-
luting 3.8 ± 0.1 mL of reagent grade
formaldehyde solution (approximately
37%) to 1.0 liter with deionized water.
Equilibrate the stock solution for at least
24 h before standardization. Determine
the concentration of formaldehyde in the
stock solution by a standard method (see
13.5 or any other suitable procedure such
as sodium sulfite titration using 0.1 N
HCl. Reference: J. Frederick Walker,
Formaldehyde, 3rd Ed. Reinhold Publ.
Co., New York, 1964, p486). An alternate
reference is the Analytical Methods for a
Textile Laboratory, Third Edition. Record
the actual concentration of this standard-
ized stock solution. This stock solution Fig. 1—The wire mesh basket detailed on the left is suspended in a sealed jar
will keep for at least four weeks and is with one fabric specimen as shown on the right.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM112-2020

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
205
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
and 5.0-mL of deionized water to a tube Table I—Critical Differences for hydrolyzed formaldehyde. The appropriate test
and used as a reagent blank. Perform du- Zero Formaldehyde should be chosen based on that distinction.
plicate solutions of each jar. 13.2 A simple cloth support for insertion in
10.5 Mix and place the tubes in a 58 ± Critical Differences for Averages the mason jars can be constructed as follows:
95% Probability, µg/g A piece of aluminum wire screening 15.2 ×
1°C (136 ± 2°F) water bath for 6 min ± 14.0 cm (6.0 × 5.5 in.) is bent around a length
15 sec. Remove and cool. Single Multiple of wood 3.8 cm (1.5 in.) square and fastened
10.6 Read the absorbance in the spec- Fabric Fabric together to form a rectangular, open-ended
trophotometer against the reagent blank Within Between Between cage. One side is cut at the corners about half-
using a wavelength of 412 nm. CAUTION: Det/Avg Lab Labs Labs way up the side and the cut section folded in-
Exposure of the developed yellow color ward and fastened. This folded piece forms
1 7.7 12.0 13.8
to direct sunlight for a period of time will the bottom of the wire basket while the other
2 5.5 10.6 12.7 three sides form the support legs. Fastening
cause some fading. If there is appreciable 3 4.5 10.2 12.3
delay in reading the tubes after color de- can be accomplished by twisting short lengths
of wire through or around the appropriate part.
velopment and strong sunlight is present, The wire screening should not be a source of
care should be exercised to protect the Table II—Critical Differences for formaldehyde. Test before using.
tubes from light. Otherwise the color is Low Level Formaldehyde 13.3 The ratio of reagent to sample solu-
stable for considerable time (at least tions can be adjusted, within limits, to suit the
overnight) and reading may be delayed. Critical Differences for Averages individual absorbance range and optical path
10.7 Determine the µg/mL formalde- 95% Probability, µg/g length of the sampling tubes or cuvettes of the
hyde (HCHO) in the sample solutions us- particular photometric instrument being used.
ing the prepared calibration curve (see Single Multiple For example, although 5 mL reagent to 5 mL
8.3 and 13.3). Fabric Fabric sample solution has been found convenient for
Within Between Between several types of instruments, other 1:1 ratios,
Det/Avg Lab Labs Labs such as a ratio of 2 mL reagent to 2 mL sam-
11. Calculation ple may be more suitable for others. The same
1 21.6 80.3 116.0 ratio should be used with the standards as with
11.1 Calculate the amount of formalde- 2 15.2 78.9 115.0 the sample. The use of spectrophotometer
hyde released for each specimen to the 3 12.4 78.4 114.7 tubes directly for color developments avoids
nearest µg/g using the following equation: the transfer step, test tubes to spectrophotome-
ter cells, and may save considerable time
F = (C) (50)/W when many determinations are to be made.
of formaldehyde release, the critical dif- Repipettes or similar devices can be used for
where: ferences in the column, single level, in reagent dispensing, and disposable tip auto-
F = concentration of formaldehyde Table II should be used. matic pipettes can be used for the sample solu-
(µg/g), 12.1.5 If comparisons are made be- tions.
C = concentration of formaldehyde in tween laboratories on a series of fabrics 13.4 The procedure in Section 10 has been
solution as read from the calibra- set up to cover the range from about 0 µg/g on
of a range of formaldehyde levels, the the weight of the fabric to about 500 µg/g. In
tion curve, and critical differences in the column, multi-
W = weight of the test specimen, g. fabrics containing releasable formaldehyde in
ple levels, in Table II should be used. the range from 500 µg/g on the weight of the
12.1.6 The number of determinations fabric to about 3500 µg/g, it is recommended
12. Precision and Bias per laboratory average (det/avg) also de- that a ratio of 10-mL Nash reagent to 1 mL
termines the critical difference. sample be used. If this is done, it is necessary
12.1 Precision. to prepare an additional calibration chart with
12.2 Bias.
12.1.1 Interlaboratory tests. Two inter- 10:1 ratios of standard solutions to Nash re-
laboratory studies (ILS) of AATCC 12.2.1 The formaldehyde release of a agent by diluting 5.0, 10.0, 15.0 and 20.0 µg/
TM112 were conducted in 1990 and fabric can be defined only in terms of a mL, respectively, of the approximately 1500
1991, with a 20 h incubation at 49°C and test method. There is no independent µg/mL standardized stock solution of formal-
a 5/5 sample to Nash solution ratio. Single method for determining the true value. As dehyde to the mark with deionized water in
operators in each participating laboratory a means of estimating formaldehyde re- 500-mL volumetric flasks. Formaldehyde so-
leased from a fabric under the conditions lutions containing approximately 15, 30, 45
ran triplicate determinations on each fab- and 60 µg/ mL respectively will be obtained
ric. In the first ILS, results from nine labo- of accelerated storage in AATCC TM112,
the method has no known bias. (see 8.3).
ratories testing one fabric each at three 13.5 The chromotropic acid colorimetric
low formaldehyde levels in the range of 12.2.2 AATCC TM112 generally is ac- method can be used as an alternate to the Nash
100-400 µg/g were analyzed by analysis cepted by the textile and apparel indus- reagent for the determination of the formalde-
of variance (ANOVA). In the second ILS, tries as a referee method. hyde content of the sample jars after oven in-
results from eight laboratories testing ten cubation. It should be noted that the Precision
fabrics of nominal 0 µg/g were analyzed 13. Notes and Bias Statement was not developed using
by ANOVA. The analyses have been de- the chromotropic acid method. A suitable pro-
13.1 Formaldehyde is a component of, or cedure is given in J. Frederick Walker, Form-
posited for reference in the RA68 com- aldehyde, 3rd Edition, Reinhold Publishing
precursor to, many fabric finishes. As part of
mittee files. the application the finish is cured, resulting in Co., NY, 1964, p470. When using this
12.1.2 Critical differences were calcu- self-crosslinking of the finish and or crosslink- method, a change may be necessary in the size
lated for zero-formaldehyde fabrics, ing of the finish with the fabric. Incomplete of both the aliquots taken from the sample jars
shown in Table I, and for low level-form- crosslinking, or hydrolysis in later storage, can (see 10.2) and the standard formaldehyde so-
aldehyde fabrics shown in Table II. result in the presence of hydrolyzed formalde- lutions used in preparing the calibration curve
12.1.3 When two or more laboratories hyde on the fabric. Warm moist conditions can (see 8.3). CAUTION: Since concentrated sul-
wish to compare test results, it is recom- (further) hydrolyze cross-linked finishes and furic acid is used with the chromotropic acid
release more formaldehyde. Test Method 112 method, adequate care should be exercised to
mended that laboratory level be estab- protect operating personnel and spectrophoto-
determines free and hydrolyzed formaldehyde
lished between them prior to beginning and additional formaldehyde collectively re- metric equipment.
test comparisons. ferred to as “released formaldehyde” as gener- 13.6 Incubation conditions of 65 ± 1°C
12.1.4 If comparisons are made be- ated under more severe conditions. Test (149 ± 4°F) for 4 h can be used as an alternate
tween laboratories on a single fabric level Method 206 determines the amount of free and to the incubation conditions of 49 ± 1°C (120

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

206 AATCC TM112-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
± 2°F) for 20 h (see 5.3 and 10.1). The incuba- Apparatus: 10-mL volumetric pipette, 50- make blue color disappear.
tion conditions of time and temperature must mL volumetric pipette, 50-mL burette, 150- Calculations:
be reported. Upon completion of the 4-h incu- mL Erlenmeyer flask. C = (30,030) (A) (N)/10
bation period, remove and cool the jars for at Reagents: 1 M sodium sulfite (126 g Anhy- where:
least 30 min and remove the fabric from the drous Na2SO3/L), 0.1% Thymolphthalein Indi- C = Wt/Vol concentration of formalde-
jars. Recap the jars and shake them to mix any cator in ethanol, 0.02 N sulfuric acid (can be hyde (µg/mL)
condensation formed on the jar sides. Proce- purchased in standardized form from chemical A = Vol of acid used (mL)
dures for sample preparation and color devel- supply companies or must be standardized N = Normality of acid
opment following the incubation period are from standard NaOH solution). Do not use
performed as outlined in 10.4-10.7. commercial standardized sulfuric acid that has Perform the standardization in duplicates.
13.7 If extracted solutions are colored in been stabilized with formaldehyde. If there is Average the results and use the accurate con-
flask refer to Dilip Pasad’s publication “Opti- a doubt, check with the chemical supplier. centration in preparing the calibration curve
mization of the AATCC Sealed Jar and HPLC Procedure: for the colorimetric analysis.
Methods for Measurement of Low Levels of A. Pipette 50.0-mL of 1 M Na2SO3 into the 13.7 Available from Publications Office,
Formaldehyde.” Textile Chemist and Colorist, Erlenmeyer flask. ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
June 1989, Volume 21, No 6. Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
B. Add 2 drops of thymolphthalein indica-
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
13.8 If the extracted solutions contain par- tor.
ticulate matter, the solutions should be centri- C. Add a few drops of standard acid until
fuged or filtered to remove contaminant. blue color disappears (if necessary). 14. History
13.9 Standardization of Formaldehyde D. Pipette 10.0-mL of the stock formalde- 14.1 Revised in 2020 to update multiple
Stock Solution. General: The stock solution hyde solution to the flask. (Blue color will re- sections for clarity.
containing approximately 1500 µg/mL of appear.) 14.2 Reaffirmed 1968, 1972, 1989, 1998,
formaldehyde must be accurately standardized E. Titrate the solution with the standard 2003; revised 1975, 1978, 1982, 1984, 1993;
in order to make precise calculations from the 0.02 N H2SO4 until the blue color is dis- technical correction 1983; editorially revised
calibration curve used in colorimetric analysis. charged. Record the volume of acid used. (The 1985, 1986, 2010, 2011; editorially revised
An aliquot of the stock solution is reacted volume of acid should be in the range of 25 and reaffirmed (with new title) 1990, 2008.
with an excess of sodium sulfite followed by a mL for 0.02 N acid.) An alternative is to titrate 14.3 Developed in 1965 by AATCC Com-
back-titration with standard acid solution in to an endpoint of 9.5 using no thymolphtha- mittee RR68; jurisdiction transferred to AATCC
the presence of thymolphthalein as indicator. lein nor additional drops of standard acid to Committee RA45 2012.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM112-2020 207
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM114-2021

Test Method for Retained Chlorine: Tensile Loss

1. Foreword erence applicable safety data sheets, use to standard for details.)
safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- 7.6 Reagents
1.1 This test method is based on propriate personal protective equipment 7.6.1 Sodium hypochlorite solution,
AATCC TM92. AATCC TM114 uses an in handling materials in this standard. approx. 5% available chlorine (see 9.2).
automatic home washing machine to 6.3 Users MUST consult manufactur-
chlorinate multiple specimens while 7.7.1 Buffer solution (see 9.1).
ers for specific details such as equipment 7.8.1 Sodium tetraphosphate (Na6P4O13).
AATCC TM92 uses a beaker for acceler- operating instructions and other recom-
ated chlorination of a single specimen. 7.9.1 Sodium carbonate.
mendations. Consult and follow all appli- 7.10.1 Sodium bicarbonate
cable health and safety regulations (e.g.,
2. Purpose and Scope OSHA standards and rules).
8. Specimens
2.1 This test method is a procedure to
determine the potential damage that may 7. Apparatus and Reagents (see 14.4) 8.1 Specimens.
be caused by chlorine bleaching. 8.1.1 Normally, only the warp strength
7.1 Standard washing machine (see is determined. Cut two pieces for each
2.2 The method is applicable to woven
Table I, 14.5). sample approximately 35.6 cm (14 in.) in
textile fabrics. The tensile strength test is
not recommended for knitted fabrics be- 7.2 Laundering ballast, Type 1 (see the warp direction and 20.3 cm (8 in.) in
Table II). the filling direction. (If testing filling
cause of their high stretch.
7 3 Standard tumble dryer (see Table specimens, reverse these figures.)
III, 14.5).
3. Principle 7.4 Heating device, providing even 9. Preparation of Reagents
3.1 Samples are chlorine bleached in a heat transfer to the specimen from the top
domestic-type laundry machine, rinsed, by close contact at a controlled tempera- 9.1 Buffer Solution: Prepare a solution
dried and pressed between hot metal ture and giving a pressure on the speci- containing 290 g of sodium tetraphos-
plates. Multiple samples may be bleached men of 9 g/cm2. phate and 93 g of monosodium phosphate
together. 7.5 Apparatus and conditioning facili- (NaH2PO4 · H2O) in sufficient water to
3.2 The damaging action of the re- ties as needed for ASTM D5035. (Refer make 1000 mL of solution.
tained chlorine is calculated from the dif-
ference in tensile strength before and af-
ter pressing (see 14.1). Results are
reported as a percentage of the original Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 14.5, 14.7)
tensile strength. A higher percent loss in-
dicates more damage due to retained Cycle Normal

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
chlorine. Water Level, L (gal)1 45 ± 4 (12 ± 1)
Agitation Speed (strokes/min.) 86 ± 2
4. Referenced Documents Stroke Length Up to 220°
Washing Time, min.2 12 ± 1
NOTE: Use current versions of all Rinse 1
publications unless otherwise specified. Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15
4.1 AATCC LP1 Laboratory Procedure Final Spin Time, min. 5±1
for Home Laundering: Machine Washing Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
(see 14.2). Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
4.2 AATCC TM92 Test Method for
Chlorine, Retained, Tensile Loss: Single 1
Water Level and Wash Temperature indicated in the table may not correspond with standard machine settings.
Sample (see 14.2). Verify and adjust as needed to achieve the indicated parameters.
4.3 ASTM D5035, Standard Test
Method for Breaking Force and Elonga-
tion of Textile Fabrics (Strip Method)
Table II—Laundering Ballast Parameters
(see 14.3).
Type 1
5. Terminology Fiber Content 100% Cotton
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun
5.1 retained chlorine, n.—in textiles Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
bleached with chlorine-type bleaches, Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2
available chlorine that remains in the ma- Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged
terial after washing and drying. Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g
6. Safety Precautions
6.1 The safety precautions specified in Table III—Standard Tumble Drying Parameters
the method/procedure are ancillary to the
testing procedures and are not intended to Cycle Normal Delicate Permanent Press
be all inclusive. Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
6.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10

208 AATCC TM114-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
9.2 Available Chlorine. Verify the per- allow to remain through the scorching (Tc – Tcs)/Tc × 100 =
cent available chlorine. Pipette a 1.00-mL step and tensile strength testing. The
portion of nominal 5% sodium hypochlo- samples should be conditioned not less % loss in tensile strength due
rite solution into an Erlenmeyer flask and than 4 nor more than 24 h before scorch- to damage caused by retained
dilute to 100 mL with distilled water. ing, and not less than 16 h before tensile chlorine (Eq. 2)
Add 6 mL of 12% KI followed by 20 mL testing. where:
of 6N H2SO4. Titrate with 0.1N sodium 10.5 Preparation of Specimens for Tc = average tensile strength of chlo-
thiosulfate solution and calculate using Scorching. Prepare warp specimens by rinated specimens, unscorched,
Eq. 1. Use 1.08 as the value for specific carefully cutting five strips approx. 35.6 and
gravity. × 3.2 cm (14.0 × 1.25 in.). Ravel the 3.2- Tcs = average tensile strength of chlo-
Percent available chlorine = cm (1.25-in.) strips to exactly 2.54 cm (1 rinated specimens, scorched.
in.) following ASTM D5035. Then trim

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
mL Na thiosulfate × 0.1N × 0.0355 the 35.6 cm (14 in.) length of each strip to 12. Report
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ × 100 30.5 cm (12 in.) From this set of five 2.54
1 mL × sp. grav. Na hypochlorite
× 30.5 cm (1 × 12 in.) strips, make two 12.1 Describe or identify the samples
(Eq. 1) sets (from the same set of warp threads) tested.
of 2.54 × 15.2cm (1 × 6 in.) raveled strip 12.2 Report that the sample was tested
9.2.1 A 5% available chlorine solution, using AATCC TM114-2021.
purchased from a laboratory chemical specimens by cutting the strips in two.
Keep these sets separate; one set to be 12.3 Report the testing conditions:
supplier, may also be used. COA’s may 12.3.1 Number of specimens tested.
be used to ascertain strength. Chlorine scorched, the other to be used as a con-
trol. 12.3.2 Laundering conditions.
does degrade. Once opened, store chemi- 12.4 Report the test results:
cal in refrigerator and use by manufac- 10.6 Preparation of Heating Device.
Prepare heating device in advance so that 12.4.1 Average percent loss in tensile
turer’s expiration date. strength for warp due to damage caused
the heating plates of the instrument main-
tain a temperature of 185 ± 1°C (365 ± by retained chlorine.
10. Procedure 12.4.2 Standard deviation of average
2°F). If necessary, to avoid air currents,
enclose instrument in a cabinet. Make 12.4.3 If filling strength loss is deter-
10.1 Preparation of Washing Machine.
sure the two heating plates are clean and mined, report average and standard devi-
If the washing machine has been used for
in good alignment (uniformly in contact ation of percent loss in tensile strength
anything other than chlorine bleaching,
at all points) (see 14.6). Scorch each strip for filling.
run a full wash cycle with warm water,
adding 0.15% sodium tetraphosphate at of one set separately (one at a time) by 12.5 Describe any modification(s) of
placing the 2.54 × 15.2 cm (1 × 6 in.) the published standard.
the beginning of the cycle. Determine
water volume at low-water level and use specimen in the heating device with the
in calculating liquor-to-bath ratio. long direction of the raveled strip perpen- 13. Precision and Bias
After the machine is free of impurities, dicular to the long direction of the heat- 13.1 Precision. The standard deviation
set washing machine controls to obtain ing plates so that it is scorched across the obtained in developing this method was s
the parameters listed in Table I. Select center of the raveled strip (see Fig. 1). = 5.98.
water temperature based on care instruc- Scorch the strips for 30 s. Check reading The confidence interval based on 5
tions. of the thermometers frequently during specimens is C.I. ± 5.2.
10.2 Chlorination. use. Condition the specimens again, this 13.2 Bias. The tensile strength loss due
10.2.1 Begin selected wash cycle. Al- time conditioning at least 16 h before per- to retained chlorine can be defined only
low machine to fill to specified water forming tensile strength tests. in terms of a test method. There is no in-
level (50:1 liquor ratio). 10.7 Tensile Strength. Perform tensile dependent method for determining the
10.2.2 Add sufficient diluted sodium strength tests on the unscorched and true value. As a means of estimating this
hypochlorite to wash water to obtain a scorched specimens and record the indi- property, the method has no known bias.
bath liquor concentration of 0.10% by vidual values. From these, calculate the
weight of available chlorine. average (mean) tensile strength for each 14. Notes
10.2.3 Stir well. Adjust the pH to 9.5 set.
with sodium carbonate to raise the pH or 14.1 Where it is suspected that either fabric
sodium bicarbonate to lower it. or finish is susceptible to damage on heating,
11. Calculations this susceptibility can be determined by run-
10.2.4 Add all the test samples and ning a distilled-water control, that is, the fab-
sufficient untreated ballast to make a 50:1 11.1 Use Eq. 2 (see 14.1): ric is run through the entire procedure, but
liquor-to-cloth ratio. Run machine through using distilled water in place of the hypochlo-
wash portion of cycle. rite solution. The loss in strength due to heat
10.3 Rinsing. After the wash water has alone is calculated by Eq 3:
drained and the machine has refilled, add
(Tw – Tws)/Tw × 100 =
10 mL of the buffer solution for each
gallon of water and continue operation Percent tensile strength loss
through rinse cycle and the final spin due to scorching alone (Eq. 3)
cycle. where:
10.4 Drying and Conditioning. Tumble Tw = average tensile strength of the water-
dry the washed samples with ballast until treated specimens, unscorched (han-
just dry. Set tumble dryer to obtain the dled as above) and
parameters listed in Table III. Select dry- Tc = average tensile strength of the
ing temperature based on care instruc- original fabric chlorinated and un-
tions. Do not reuse ballast for this test scorched.
method due to retained chlorine. Transfer If this loss is appreciable, there is some
at once to a conditioned atmosphere at question as to whether the chlorine damage
65 ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and Fig. 2—Specimen on heating plate. test is applicable. It is usually not necessary to

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM114-2021 209
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
determine the effect of wet chlorination on the 19428, USA; +1.610.832.9500; www.astm.org. ters defined for this test method. The addi-
fabric, as this factor is cancelled out in the cal- 14.4 For potential apparatus, reagents or tional parameters listed in Table I are standard
culation for chlorine damage. However, where materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s conditions for testing purposes, selected to
it is desirable to determine the effect of the Guide at www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides align with machines specified in other
wet chlorination step, this may be calculated its Corporate members the option to list their AATCC laundering methods. Note that this
using Eq. 4: items and services. AATCC does not qualify, test method must be performed in a traditional
or in any way approve, endorse or certify that top-loading washing machine.
(Tw – Tc)/Tw × 100 =
any of the listings meet the specifications in its
Percent tensile strength loss standards.
due to wet chlorination (Eq. 4) 15. History
14.5 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
tumble dryer(s) reported to meet the standard 15.1 Revised in 2021 to clarify and align
where: parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/testing/laun-
Tw = average tensile strength of the water- with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
dering or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, 15.2 Editorially revised 2019. Revised
treated specimens, unscorched (han- Research Triangle Park NC 27709; +1.919.
dled as above) and 2016. Editorially revised 2012. Editorially re-
549.8141; [email protected]. vised and reaffirmed 2011. Technical correction
Tc = average tensile strength of the orig-
14.6 The test block should exert a force of 2010. Editorially revised 2008. Editorially re-
inal fabric chlorinated and un-
255 g (9 oz), or 9 g/cm2 (2 oz/in2). It can be vised and reaffirmed 2005. Editorially revised
scorched.
calibrated by attaching a spring balance to the 2004. Reaffirmed 1999. Editorially revised
14.2 Available from AATCC, PO Box upper plate with a small thread sling and de- and reaffirmed 1994. Editorially revised 1992.
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, USA; termine the force required to just separate the Reaffirmed 1989. Editorially revised and reaf-
+1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; www. plates. If readjustment is necessary, follow in- firmed 1985. Reaffirmed 1980, 1977, 1974,
aatcc.org. structions supplied by the manufacturer. 1971, 1967.
14.3 Available from ASTM International, 14.7 Prior to 2021, water temperature and 15.3 Developed in 1965 by AATCC Com-
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA agitation time were the only washing parame- mittee RR35. Maintained by RA99.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

210 AATCC TM114-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM115-2000e(2011)e

Test Method for Electrostatic Clinging of Fabrics: Fabric-to-Metal

Developed in 1965 by AATCC Commit- for information purposes only. The pre- × 300 plate must have a No. 4 finish (see
tee RA32; revised 1969, 1973, 2000; cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 12.3.1) on the included angle side, and
editorially revised 1974, 1976, 1977, dures and are not intended to be all inclu- should be kept clean and smooth at all
1978, 1991, 1999, 2008, 2019; reaf- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use times. A fine line is indented across the
firmed 1977, 1980, 1989, 2005, 2011; safe and proper techniques in handling test plate surface 230 mm from the top of
editorially revised and reaffirmed 1986, materials in this test method. Manufac- the plate and this is used to position the
1995. turers MUST be consulted for specific lower edge of the specimen (see 12.3).
details such as material safety data sheets 6.1.2 Variable Angle Experimental
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- Test Plate—The sensitivity of this test de-
1. Purpose and Scope tions. All OSHA standards and rules pends on the included angle of the metal
must also be consulted and followed. plate and can be diminished by decreas-
1.1 This test method evaluates the rela- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should ing the included angle or vice versa. A
tive clinging tendency of certain fabrics be followed. Wear safety glasses in all more versatile version of the test plate,
due to electrostatic charge generation. laboratory areas. suitable for research work, which allows
The test integrates the effect of fabric 4.2 The radioactive bar emits alpha ra- facile change of the sensitivity, uses a 25
weight, stiffness, construction, surface diation which is externally harmless to × 100 × 100 mm aluminum base with
character, finish application and other the human body. The radioactive isotope several slots machined into the base at
fabric parameters which affect the ten- polonium 210 is toxic and precaution different angles (e.g., 0.017, 0.087, 0.175,
dency of fabrics to cling. should be exercised to prevent ingestion 0.35, 0.52, 0.70, 0.87, 1.05 RAD) from
or inhalation of the solid material. Do not the vertical axis into which a 100 × 360
2. Principle take the radioactive bar apart or touch the mm stainless steel plate fits.
radioactive strip under the grid. If the 6.2 Grounding Plate—This is a 200 ×
2.1 Clinging of positively or negatively strip is touched or handled, wash hands 360 mm, flat, 18 gauge Type 304 stain-
charged fabrics to the human body occurs thoroughly at once. Return the device to less steel plate, attached to a ground, such
due to instantaneous induction of an the manufacturer when it loses its effec- as a water pipe, with wire (e.g., No. 18
equal and opposite charge on the surface tiveness as a static eliminator for reacti- stranded, plastic-covered electronic
of the body when the charged fabric is vation when tested in accordance with wire). One such grounding plate is re-
brought close to it. A basic law of physics 12.3.1 or for disposal if use is to be dis- quired for each test plate.
states that oppositely charged materials continued. Do not discard as scrap. 6.3 Radioactive bar (see 12.4).
attract each other. A metal plate exhibits
6.4 Rubbing blocks, white pine, ap-
a similar phenomenon of instantaneous
prox. 20 × 50 × 150 mm adjusted to
charge induction as would the human 5. Uses and Limitations
weigh 65 g and with strips of 20 mm
body when placed in the field of a
5.1 This test method is not intended for wide, double-faced tape on the ends of
charged material. Therefore, a metal plate
use in determining the suitability of fab- each block to attach ends of the rubbing
can be used to simulate the problems of
ric for use in hazardous areas where the fabric.
clinging observed between charged gar-
ments and the human body. Some indi- electrostatic generation of sparks might 6.5 Polyurethane foam, 25 × 100 × 300
viduals are more prone to electrostatic result in fires or explosions. mm non-rigid, having a density of 21 kg/m3
clinging than others, and a given individ- 5.1.1 Certain fabrics, particularly those and an ILD (Identification Load Deflec-
ual may be more prone at one time than at of heavy construction, which do not ex- tion) firmness of 6.8 kg when tested
another time. Therefore, fabric-to-metal hibit a clinging propensity by this method (see 12.3) as directed in ASTM D3574.
cling times cannot be related directly to might cling under some conditions of 6.6 Clamps, metal (e.g., No. 3 Bulldog
fabric-to-body clinging for different indi- use. Clamp or Di-acro Toggle Clamp, see
viduals. 5.1.2 This test method is primarily use- 12.4), with 70 mm edges covered with 20
2.2 In this test method, the time (td) is ful for determining clinging properties of mm electrical tape to prevent scratching
lightweight apparel fabrics, such as those of the surface of the test plates.
measured for the charge on a fabric speci-
men to decay to a level where the electri- intended for use in lingerie. 6.7 Stopwatch, with 0.01 min or one of
cal attractive forces between the speci- equivalent precision marked in other
men and the metal plate are over- units.
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.2)
balanced by the gravitational forces of 6.8 Forceps or tweezers, non-conduct-
the specimen acting to pull the specimen 6.1 Test plates. ing, ivory-tipped, forceps used with ana-
away from the plate (see 12.1). 6.1.1 Standard Test Plate—A test plate lytical balances.
(see 12.3) is made by bending 100 × 450 6.9 Oven, forced-draft type, capable of
mm strips of 18 gauge Type 304 stainless maintaining a temperature of 105 ± 2°C
3. Terminology
steel across the width 150 mm from one (221 ± 5°F).
3.1 electrostatic clinging, n.—adher- end so that an included angle of 1.22 ± 6.10 Conditioning chamber, capable of
ence of one substance to another caused 0.04 RAD is formed between the 100 × providing relative humidity control of
by an electrical charge on one or both 150 mm base and the 100 × 300 upright 40 ± 2% and temperature at 24 ± 1°C (75
surfaces. plate. The grain of the finish should be ± 2°F) with circulating air.
such that the 450 direction of the test 6.10.1 If tests are to be conducted at
4. Safety Precautions plate corresponds to the length or grain relative humidities or temperatures other
direction of the stainless steel sheets from than 40 ± 2% RH and 24 ± 1°C (75 ±
NOTE: These safety precautions are which they are made. The face of the 100 2°F), the conditioning test chamber should

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM115-2000e(2011)e 211
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
be capable of providing the necessary Table I—Safe Ironing Temperature Guide
range of test conditions (such as 20-65 ±
2% RH and from 10-30 ± 1°C [50-86 ± Class 0 Class IV
2°F). Class I Class II Class III 204°C and
6.11 Rubbing fabrics. Below 121°C 121-135°C 149-163°C 177-191°C Above
6.11.1 Nylon rubbing fabric—100% Modacrylic 93-121°C Acetate Nylon 6,6 Cotton
spun nylon 6,6. Olefin (Polyethylene) 79-121°C Olefin (Poly- Acrylic Polyester Fluorocarbon
6.11.2 Polyester rubbing fabric— 100% propylene) Azlon
spun polyester. Nylon 6 Glass
Hemp, Jute,
6.12 Fabric iron, domestic hand type, Ramie
with appropriate settings (see Table I). Rubber 82-93°C Silk Spandex Linen
6.13 Cleaning solvent: halogenated hy- Wool Rayon,
drocarbon metal-cleaning solvent herein- Viscose
after called HH Solvent. Saran 66-93°C Triacetate
(heatset)
7. Test and Rubbing Specimens Vinyon 54°C

7.1 Test fabrics—Twelve 75 × 230 mm

test specimens are required. Using die or
scissors, cut six specimens with the ing, state the temperatures used in the re- the 1.22 RAD included angle side with a
longer dimension parallel to the warp, or port. For any humidity or temperature metal bulldog or toggle clamp with the
wale, direction and six with the longer di- test conditions that are to be used, the test face of the test specimen out. Position the
mension parallel to the fill, or course, di- and rubbing specimens should be condi- lower edge of the test specimen even with
rection. (Do not cut fabric specimens tioned for at least 16 h (see 12.8). the indented line on the metal plate.
with a hot soldering iron or heated wire 9.5 Attach the metal grounding plate
since the edges can cause localized static 9. Procedure with the wire to a suitable ground and
problems due to heat degradation of the place it horizontally in the controlled hu-
fibers and antistatic agents.) 9.1 Clean the metal test plate before midity chamber and lay the polyurethane
7.2 Rubbing fabrics—Both nylon and testing every different lot of fabric. To foam on top.
polyester rubbing fabrics are required. clean, swab with a facial tissue saturated 9.6 Place the metal test plate with at-
Using die or scissors, cut six nylon and with HH Solvent (wear protective tached test specimen in a horizontal posi-
six polyester rubbing fabrics, each 75 × gloves). Allow the plate to dry at least 5 tion on the polyurethane foam in such a
230 mm, with the longer dimension par- min in the conditioning test chamber be- way that the long arm of the plate com-
allel to the warp, or wale, direction of the fore using. Make sure that HH Solvent pletely rests on the polyurethane foam
fabric. does not accumulate in the conditioning with the short arm of the test plate closest
7.3 Do not contaminate the test speci- test chamber as a result of cleaning the to the operator and pointing upward. The
mens or the rubbing fabric by unnecessary metal test plate. If the No. 4 finish on the clamp should extend over the edge of the
handling or by allowing them to come in surface of the test plate is changed notice- supporting foam so that the back of the
contact with transferable materials. ably due to use, replace the test plate with plate is completely supported.
7.4 If either the test or rubbing fabric a new one. 9.7 Place the rubbing block with at-
specimens do not lay completely flat, 9.2 Handle the fabric test specimens tached rubbing fabric at the top of the
press them free of creases or wrinkles and rubbing fabrics at only one marked plate so that the long axis of the rubbing
with a dry, clean iron at the appropriate corner to minimize transfer of impurities fabric and the long axis of the test speci-
setting as directed in Table I. Do not use to the remainder of the fabric. men are at right angles (see Fig. 1, Step
test specimens with curled edges.
9.3 Adhere double-faced adhesive tape B). The side of the rubbing block that
around all four 20 mm thick sides of the does not expose the cut edge of the rub-
8. Conditioning bing fabric should be down. Keep the test
rubbing block. Completely discharge the
8.1 Since equilibration of a test speci- rubbing fabric on both sides with the ra- plate and rubbing block perfectly flat on
men from the dry versus the wet condi- dioactive bar (Caution, see 4.2). Place a their facing surfaces to ensure complete
tion relative to the humidity of the test 50 × 150 mm side of wood block on the contact between test and rubbing fabrics
chamber may show hysteresis, precondi- rubbing fabric in such a way that the 150 during charge generation.
tion the specimens from the dry side rela- mm dimension of the block parallels the 9.8 Place the middle fingers on the
tive to the humidity in the test chamber. 230 mm dimension of the rubbing fabric back edge of the rubbing block and pull
To accomplish this, place the test and and the block is centered on the fabric. the rubbing assembly the full length of
rubbing specimens in the forced-draft Bring up the protruding edges of the fab- the test specimen (see Fig. 1, Step C).
oven at 105 ± 2°C (221 ± 4°F) for 30 ric so that they adhere tightly to the dou- Grasp the lock between the thumbs and
min. Transfer them immediately to the ble-faced tape on all four sides of the middle fingers at the ends of the block,
controlled humidity chamber allowing no rubbing block. Take care that the double- lift the assembly from the test specimen
more than 15 s for the transfer. faced tape does not extend to the area be- and return the rubbing assembly to its
8.2 Condition and test the test and tween the rubbing surface of fabric and original position at the top of the test
rubbing specimens at 40 ± 2% RH and 24 the block. specimen. Repeat this rubbing sequence
± 1°C (75 ± 2°F) in the controlled humid- 9.4 Grasp a test specimen at one corner 12 times at a cycle of approx. 1 rubbing
ity chamber for at least 16 h. If the test is and allow it to hang free. Discharge both cycle per second. The total 12 rubbing cy-
conducted at lower humidities (such as sides of the test specimen using the radio- cles should be completed in no more than
30 ± 2% or at 20 ± 2%), or at higher hu- active bar, holding the bar not over 25 15 s. For constant rubbing pressure, take
midities (such as 65 ± 2%), keep the tem- mm away from the fabric as it moves up care that the only downward pressure on
perature at 24 ± 1°C (75 ± 2°F) for stan- or down (Caution, see Section 4 and Fig. the test specimen comes from the weight
dard testing. If other temperature 1, Step A). Fasten the test specimen at the of the rubbing block and fabric.
conditions are used for nonstandard test- top of the long arm of the metal plate on 9.9 Quickly place the assembly in an

212 AATCC TM115-2000e(2011)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists and
- Ho Colorists
--``,`,,,``,,`

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Licensee=Underwriters Laboratories Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
upright position on a grounded plate. watch immediately (see Fig. 1, Step F). the condition without assigning cling time
Grasp the lower right corner of the test 9.10 After every 30 ± 2 s, grasp the (see 12.9).
specimen with the nonconducting twee- lower corner of the test specimen with 9.12 Test three specimens in both warp
zers (see Fig. 1, Step D), pull the nonconducting tweezers, pull the test (or wale) and filling (or course) direc-
unclamped part of the test specimen com- specimen completely away from the tions against both nylon and polyester
pletely away from the metal plate to a metal plate to a point where the test spec- rubbing fabrics, using fresh test speci-
point where the test specimen is posi- imen is positioned vertically for 1 ± 0.5 s, mens and fresh rubbing fabric surfaces
tioned vertically for ± 0.5 s (see Fig. 1, and then release the test specimen from for each determination (see 12.10).
Step E), and then release the test speci- the tweezers.
men from the tweezers. Start the stop- 9.11 Record the time, to the nearest 0.1
min, for the fabric to decling of its own 10. Report
accord (see Fig. 1, Step G). Disregard

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
any tendency for the test specimen to 10.1 Report the time (td) to the nearest
continue clinging within 25 mm of the 0.1 min required for a test specimen to
bottom of the holding clamp. decling from the metal plate as specified
9.11.1 If the time is greater than 10 in 9.9 and 9.11.2. Report the three indi-
min, discontinue the test and report td as vidual values of tests in both warp (or
>10 min (greater than 10 min). In some wale) and filling (or course) directions as
cases, a different “maximum cling time” well as an average of each of the three
period may be chosen. In this case, report determinations, reporting separately the
the actual maximum cling time used for times (td) obtained with both nylon and
the testing. polyester rubbing fabrics.
9.11.2 If the test specimen declings 10.1.1 If the td value of two of a set of
almost completely but persists in clinging three test specimens is less than the se-
in a small localized area in addition to the lected maximum cling time selected from
area within 25 mm of the bottom of the 9.11.1 but the td value of the third test
holding clamp, discard and test an addi- specimen is greater than the selected
tional specimen. If this condition is ob- maximum cling time, report the average
served in all test specimens, note and report of the two determinations which are less
A

B C D

E F G

Fig. 1—Principal steps in conducting test.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM115-2000e(2011)e 213
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
than the selected maximum cling time experimental error (see 12.7). 12.5 The clinging behavior by this method
and disregard the td value of the third test 11.3 Bias. Electrostatic clinging can be of test of clean, finish-free 100% cotton fab-
specimen. Report that the third specimen defined only in terms of a test method. rics can be used as a reference point for anti-
exceeded the maximum cling time. static behavior of test fabrics of similar
There is no independent method for de- construction and weights. Garments made
10.1.2 If the td value of two of a set of termining the true value. As a means of from such clean, finish-free 100% cotton fab-
three test specimens is greater than the estimating this property, the method has rics are generally considered to be free of
selected maximum cling time, report the no known bias. clinging problems under use conditions.
td value as greater than the selected maxi- 12.6 Gayler, J., R. E. Wiggins, and J. B.
mum cling time and disregard the td value Arthur, Department of Textile Technology,
of the third test specimen. 12. Notes and References
School of Textiles, North Carolina State Uni-
10.2 Report the percent relative humid- 12.1 For details, see American Dyestuff Re- versity, “Static Electricity Generation, Mea-
ity and the temperature at which the spec- porter, Vol. 56, 1967, pp345-350. surement, and Its Effect on Textiles,” May
imens were tested. 12.2 For potential equipment information 1965, pp11-12.
pertaining to this test method, please visit 12.7 The statistical analyses and related
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. data are on file at AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re-
11. Precision and Bias search Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
11.1 Precision. Extensive interlabora- [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
tory evaluations run in 1955 on woven Corporate members, but AATCC does not
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 12.8 At a given temperature, accumulation
fabrics indicated that, for the fabrics tify that any of the listed equipment or of static electricity generally is greater the
tested, the 95% confidence limits of this materials meets the requirements in its test lower the relative humidity (and vice versa).
test are ± 0.5 min (see 12.1). methods. For example, fabrics which show a low degree
11.2 An interlaboratory test on tricot 12.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box of static accumulation at 40% RH and 24°C
fabrics was run in 1975 which involved 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: (75°F) may exhibit severe static accumulation
the following variables: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: at 25% RH and 24°C (75°F) while fabrics
5 laboratories [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. which exhibit static problems at 40% RH and
12.3.1 The specified No. 4 finish on the 24°C (75°F) may exhibit a low degree of static
4 fabrics accumulation at 65% RH and 24°C (75°F).
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

2 levels of laundering standard test plate shall be as specified in the

ASTM Metals Handbook, Vol. 2, 8th Edition, The relationship between the tendency for
2 fabric directions 1964, p599, which states: “Following initial static accumulation and relative humidity var-
2 relative humidities grinding with coarser abrasives, sheets are fi- ies with the specific antistatic agent, fiber, fab-
2 types of nylon and 2 types of polyester nally finished with lubricated 120-150 mesh ric construction, surface charger, etc.
rubbing fabrics abrasive belts.” The resultant No. 4 finish sur- Therefore, although 40% RH and 24°C (75°F)
Based on the results of this study, the 95% face roughness expressed in micro-inches is are the standard conditions for the test, signifi-
45 maximum. cant information as to the probable antistatic
confidence limits for the average decling performance properties of a fabric may require
time of a set of three observations, none of 12.4 Since the polonium in this radioactive
element has a limited half life (approx. 6 that tests be run also at a lower relative humid-
which exceeds the maximum cling time of ity, such as 20%, and 24°C (75°F), an atmo-
months), the radioactive bar must be checked
10 min, is ± 2.0 min for tests at 20% RH periodically to be sure that it is sufficiently ac- spheric condition not unusual in modern
and ± 1.7 min for tests at 40% RH. tive for complete removal of charge. The ra- heated and air conditioned buildings. Com-
Some of the fabrics tested did not cling dioactive bar may be checked by testing a plete evaluation may also require tests at the
at all (0 min) while others clung more specimen known to exhibit a cling time of at upper level of 65% RH and 24°C (75°F).
than the maximum 10 min, at which point least 10 min when tested as directed in Section 12.9 Clinging in a small localized area can
testing is discontinued. In this interlabo- 6. A jersey stitch nonantistatic heatset 40 be indicative of the presence of foreign mate-
ratory test, 576 different test conditions denier nylon tricot fabric free of finish or rial or some irregularity and may not be char-
scoured and in the range of 50-100 g/m2 is acteristic of the clinging properties of the
were listed which involved 1,728 individ- fabric lot from which the test specimens were
satisfactory for this purpose. The fabric
ual decling measurements. Of the 576 should be charged as directed and then deion- taken.
test conditions, 469 contain at least one 0 ized with the radioactive bar. If the test speci- 12.10 Since several determinations some-
or 10 value. Only 109 contain no 0 or 10. men shows zero cling time, the radioactive bar times can be run concurrently, time can be
Any set of these replicates containing a 0 is sufficiently active for complete removal of saved by having several test plates and
or 10 cannot give a valid estimate of the charge. grounding plates available.

214 AATCC TM115-2000e(2011)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM116-2018e(2022)e

Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking:

Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
1. Purpose and Scope 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 7. Verification
1.1 This test method is used to deter- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas. 7.1 Verification checks on the opera-
mine the amount of color transferred tion of the test and the apparatus should
from the surface of colored textile materi- be made routinely and the results kept in
als to other surfaces by rubbing. It is ap- 5. Uses and Limitations
a log. The following observations and
plicable to textiles made from all fibers in 5.1 Since manufacturing processes corrective actions are extremely impor-
the form of yarn or fabric, whether dyed, such as dyeing, finishing, etc., and wash- tant to avoid incorrect test results where

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
printed or otherwise colored and espe- ing, drycleaning, ironing, etc. may affect abnormal crock images can result and in-
cially where the singling out of colored the degree of color transfer from a mate- fluence the rating process.
areas smaller than possible to test with rial, the test may be made before or after, 7.2 Use the crockmeter verification
the standard crockmeter (AATCC TM8, any such treatment, depending upon the fabric or in-house poor crocking fabric
Test Method for Colorfastness to Crock- information desired. with known predictable and repeatable
ing: Crockmeter) is required (see 14.1). 5.2 This method is designed for use crocking behavior.
1.2 Test procedures employing test with an AATCC crocking cloth. Alterna- 7.2.1 A poor circular image with un-
squares either dry or wet with water or tively, other adjacent textile substrates even dye pick-up may indicate the crock-
other liquids are within the scope of this may be used as agreed between interested ing finger needs resurfacing.
method. parties. 7.2.2 A double image may indicate a
loose clip.
2. Principle 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.4) 7.2.3 An uneven stained ring around
the circumference may indicate that the
2.1 A test specimen held at the base of 6.1 Rotary vertical crockmeter with 16 peg is uneven.
the rotary vertical crockmeter is rubbed ± 0.1 mm diameter finger (see Fig. 1). 7.2.4 Scuff marks to the sides of the
with standard test squares under con- 6.2 AATCC Crocking Cloth, cut in 50 specimen indicate the loops to the wire
trolled conditions (see 14.1). ±1 mm squares (see 14.5). clips are positioned downwards and are
2.2 Color transferred to the test squares 6.3 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- not high enough to prevent rubbing the
is assessed by a comparison with the ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 14.2). specimen surface.
Gray Scale for Staining, AATCC 9-Step 6.4 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC 7.2.5 Confirm the wet pick-up tech-
Chromatic Transference Scale or Instru- EP2) (see 14.2). niques (see 10.2).
mental Assessment of Degree of Staining 6.5 White AATCC Textile Blotting Pa- 7.2.6 Replace the abrasive paper on the
(see 14.2 and 14.3). per (see 14.2). tester base if it is smooth to the touch in
6.7 Spiral wire clip for securing crock- the crocking area compared to the adja-
3. Terminology ing cloth to rotary vertical crockmeter cent area, or if slippage of the specimen
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of finger. is noticed.
a material to change in any of its color 6.8 Crockmeter verification fabric, or
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- in-house fabric with known poor color- 8. Test Specimens
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a fastness to crocking properties, that pro-
result of the exposure of the material to vides repeatable and predictable crocking 8.1 Two specimens are used, one each
any environment that might be encoun- results. for the dry and the wet tests.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 8.1.1 Additional specimens may be
age or use of the material. used to increase the precision of the aver-
3.2 crocking, n.—a transfer of colo- age (see 13.1).
rant from the surface of a colored yarn or 8.2 Specimens must exceed the size of
fabric to another surface or to an adjacent the crocking finger such that it is in full
area of the same fabric principally by contact with the specimen during the
rubbing. complete rotation of the finger. Avoid
seams and other raised areas.
4. Safety Precautions 8.3 For yarns, knit a piece of fabric, or
wind yarn tightly on a suitable sample
NOTE: These safety precautions are card/plate.
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 9. Conditioning
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 9.1 Prior to testing, precondition and
safe and proper techniques in handling condition the test specimens and the
materials in this test method. Manufac- crocking cloth for crock testing as directed
turers MUST be consulted for specific in ASTM D1776, Standard Practice for
details such as material safety data sheets Conditioning and Testing Textiles. Condi-
and other manufacturer’s recommendation each specimen for at least 4 h in an at-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules mosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ±
must also be consulted and followed. Fig. 1—Rotary vertical crockmeter. 5% RH by laying each test specimen or

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM116-2018e(2022)e 215
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
crock square separately on a screen or per- three layers of clean AATCC Crocking of dry crocking, respectively; and 1 and
forated shelf of conditioning rack. Cloth for evaluating. 1.5 as a result of wet crocking, respec-
11.2 Rate by means of the Gray Scale tively. Table I gives the within-lab and
10. Procedure for Staining (AATCC EP2), the AATCC between-lab precision values for this
9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale study.
10.1 Dry Crocking Test. (AATCC EP8) or Instrumental Assess- 13.2 Bias. The true value of colorfast-
10.1.1 Tilt the upper half of the ma- ment of Degree of Staining (AATCC ness to crocking can be defined only in
chine away to allow access to the base of EP12), and record the numerical rating terms of a test method. There is no inde-
the machine. Place a test square on the (see 14.3 and 14.8). pendent method for determining the true
end of the vertical crocking finger and 11.3 It will be noted that the color value. As a means of estimating this
fasten it with spring clip. transfer is usually greater near the edge of property, the method has no known bias.
10.1.2 Hold the test specimen on the the tested circle than the center.
machine base at the point the crocking 11.4 Rate the color transfer at the edge
finger contacts the base. Tilt the upper of the tested circle. 14. Notes
half of the machine back to the operating
11.5 Average individual results to the
position with the test square at the end of 14.1 The rotary vertical crockmeter pro-
nearest 0.1 grade when multiple speci-
the finger in contact with the test speci- vides a reciprocating rotary motion to the test
mens are tested or when a panel of evalu- finger and a selected pressure on the test fin-
men. Place the weight supplied with the
ators rate color transfer. ger. Specimens tested by AATCC TM8 versus
Crockmeter on the vertical shaft to give
the rubbing finger a downward force of AATCC TM116 may show dissimilar results.
11.1 N ± 10% (40 oz ± 10%). 12. Report There is no known correlation between the
two methods.
10.1.3 Hold the test specimen in posi-
tion on the base. Rotate the crank 20 12.1 Report the grade determined in 14.2 Available from AATCC, PO Box
11.5. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
times at approximately 1 rotation per sec- USA; +1.919.549.8141; ordering@ aatcc.org;
ond. This produces approximately 40 re- 12.2 Indicate whether dry or wet test
www.aatcc.org.
ciprocal turns of the vertical shaft. was performed.
14.3 It has been noted that different grades
10.1.4 Tilt the upper part of the ma- 12.3 Indicate whether Gray Scale for may result depending upon whether the Gray
chine back and remove the test specimen Staining, AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Scale for Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chro-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

and the test square, condition as in 9.1 Transference Scale or Instrumental As- matic Transference Scale is used for the evalu-
and evaluate as in Section 11. sessment of Staining was used. ation. It is, therefore, important to report
10.2 Wet Crocking Test. which scale was used. For very critical evalua-
10.2.1 Weigh the conditioned dry tions and in cases of arbitration, ratings must
13. Precision and Bias be based on the Gray Scale for Staining.
crock square. Using a syringe tube, grad-
uated pipette or automatic pipette, draw 13.1 Precision. In 2017, 5 laboratories 14.4 For potential equipment information
water in mL to 0.65 times the weight of pertaining to this test method, please visit the
participated in an interlaboratory study to online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.aatcc.
crocking square. Example: If the crock- rate the colorfastness of fabrics after dry org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility of
ing square weight equals 0.24 g, the mL crocking and wet crocking. All 5 labs listing equipment and materials sold by its
used would be 0.24 × 0.65 = 0.16 mL. conducted colorfastness testing of 3 Corporate members, but AATCC does not
Lay the crocking square on white plastic fabrics, following this test method. qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
mesh over a dish. Apply water evenly Fabrics tested included 2 vat-dyed denim tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
over the crocking square to achieve a 65 fabrics, and 1 basic-dyed cotton fabric. als meets the requirements in its test methods.
± 5% wet pickup when weighed. Calcu- Each lab used 2 operators, and each oper- 14.5 AATCC Crocking Cloth should meet
late wet pickup by multiplying the origi- ator performed 10 replications by both the following specifications:
nal dry conditioned weight by 1.65. If dry and wet crocking. Each of the stained Fiber 100% 10.3-16.8 mm
needed, adjust the amount of water used crock squares were rated instrumentally combed cotton staple with
to wet the square and using a new crock- using a spectrophotometer to determine no optical brightener present
ing square, repeat steps. When 65 ± 5% the Gray Scale for Staining grade. The Yarn 15 tex (40/1 cotton count),
wet pickup is achieved, record the basic-dyed cotton fabric (Fabric 1) exhib- 5.9 turns/cm “z”
amount of water used. Draw up the re- ited a grade of 3.5, as a result of dry Thread count for greige fabric 32 ± 5 warp
corded amount of water into the syringe crocking, and 1.5 as a result of wet crock- ends/cm: 33 ± 5 filling
tube, graduated pipette or automatic pi- ing. The denim fabrics (Fabric 1 and 2) picks/cm
pette for each wet crocking performed exhibited a grade of 4.5 and 5, as a result Weave 1/1 plain
during the current day. Repeat this pro-
cess each day (see 14.6).
10.2.2 Avoid evaporative reduction of
the moisture content on the crock square Table I—Precision Values
below the specified level of 65 ± 5% be-
fore the actual crock test is run. Dry Wet
10.2.3 Continue as directed in 10.1. Within- Between- Within- Between-
10.2.4 Air dry the crock test square, n Laboratory Laboratory Laboratory Laboratory
then condition (see 9.1) before evaluat- 1 0.116 0.4006 0.307 1.067
ing. When loose fiber might interfere 2 0.082 0.2837 0.218 0.7557
with the rating, remove the extraneous fi- 3 0.067 0.2313 0.178 0.6160
brous material by pressing lightly on the 4 0.058 0.2003 0.154 0.5335
crock circle with the sticky side of cello- 5 0.052 0.1792 0.138 0.4772
phane tape before evaluating. 6 0.047 0.1635 0.126 0.4356
7 0.044 0.1515 0.116 0.4034
11. Evaluation (see 14.7) 8 0.041 0.1417 0.109 0.3773
9 0.039 0.1335 0.103 0.3557
11.1 Back the crocked test square with 10 0.037 0.1267 0.097 0.3374

216 AATCC TM116-2018e(2022)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Finished fabric desized and bleached with the results for staining obtained by this 15. History
no optical brightener or fin- method on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy,
ishing material present black, etc.) that contain a combination of poly- 15.1 Reaffirmed and editorially revised in
pH 7±1 ester and spandex, or their blends, may not 2022 to add the History section.
Mass/sq meter 100 ± 3 g finished show the full staining propensity of such fab- 15.2 Editorially revised 2019; revised 2018,
Whiteness W = 78 ± 3 (AATCC rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom- 2013; editorially revised 2011; editorially re-
TM110) mended that the staining results obtained by vised and reaffirmed 2010; editorially revised
this test not be used for the acceptance testing 2008; revised 2005; editorially revised 2004,
CAUTION: ISO crock cloth results may 2002; editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001;
not be equivalent to AATCC crock cloth re- of such fabrics.
revised 1996, 1994; reaffirmed 1989, 1988;
sults/values based on crock cloth study. 14.8 An automated electronic grading sys- editorially revised 1986, 1985; reaffirmed
14.6 Experienced operators do not have to tem may be used as long as the system has 1983; editorially revised 1981; reaffirmed
repeat the weighing procedure during a test been demonstrated to provide results that are 1977,1974; revised 1972; revised 1969.
session once the technique has been estab- equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil- 15.3 Developed in 1966 by AATCC Com-
lished. ity and reproducibility than an experienced mittee RA38. Technically equivalent to ISO
14.7 CAUTION: It has been reported that grader performing visual evaluation. 105-X16.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM116-2018e(2022)e 217
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM117-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)

Foreword 4. Terminology with pull-out, perforated shelves for lay-
ing specimens flat (see 13.1).
Several tests differing in temperature 4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 7.4 Equipment and environment for
are provided; one or more of them may a material to change in any of its color evaluating color change.
be used, depending on the requirements characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 7.4.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray
and the stability of the fibers. This test rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a Scale for Color Change (see 13.1). Refer
excludes hot pressing, which is addressed result of the exposure of the material to to AATCC EP1 for additional materials
in AATCC TM133; however, the heating any environment that might be encoun- and use of gray scale.
device does provide some pressure on the tered during the processing, testing, stor- 7.4.2 For instrumental evaluation, use
specimen and adjacent undyed cloth. age or use of the material. a spectrophotometer as specified in
AATCC EP7.
1. Purpose and Scope 7.5 Equipment and environment for
5. Safety Precautions
1.1 This test method is intended for as- evaluating staining.
sessing the degree of color change and NOTE: These safety precautions are 7.5.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray
staining caused by the action of dry heat, for information purposes only. The pre- Scale for Staining or AATCC 9-Step
excluding pressing. cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Chromatic Transference Scale (see 13.1).
1.2 It is applicable to textiles of all kinds dures and are not intended to be all inclu- Refer to AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP8 for
and in all forms. sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use additional materials and use of scales.
safe and proper techniques in handling (see 13.5)
materials in this test method. Users 7.5.2 For instrumental evaluation, use
2. Principle
MUST consult manufacturers for specific a spectrophotometer as specified in
2.1 A specimen in contact with undyed details such as safety data sheets and AATCC EP12.
fabrics is exposed to dry heat by close other manufacturer’s recommendations.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
contact under controlled conditions. Consult and follow all applicable OSHA
Color change of the test specimen is re- standards and rules. 8. Specimens
ported as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5 rep- 5.1 Follow good laboratory practices. 8.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric,
resenting no color change and 1 repre- Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas. place a test specimen with dimensions
senting the most color change. Staining appropriate for the heating device be-
on each undyed fabric or fiber is reported 6. Uses and Limitations tween the two pieces of undyed fabric
as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5 represent- (see 7.2), and sew along one of the
ing no staining and 1 representing the 6.1 When this test method is used for shorter sides to form a composite test
most staining. assessing color changes and staining in specimen.
dyeing, printing and finishing processes, 8.2 If the textile to be tested is yarn,
3. Referenced Documents other chemicals and physical factors may knit it into fabric and treat it as in 8.1 or
influence the results. form a uniform layer of parallel yarn
NOTE: Use current versions of all
publications unless otherwise specified. 6.2 A color change of the undyed fab- lengths between two pieces of undyed
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- ric may be caused by factors other than fabric (see 7.2), the amount of yarn taken
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change staining from the test specimen. To deter- being approximately equal to half the
(see 13.1). mine this, pieces of the undyed fabric combined mass of the undyed fabrics.
3.2 AATCC EP2, Evaluation Proce- may be tested alone. Sew along one side to hold the yarn in
dure for Gray Scale for Staining (see place and to form a composite test speci-
13.1). men.
7. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.3)
3.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- 8.3 If the textile to be tested is loose fi-
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the 7.1 Heating device, providing even ber, comb and compress an amount ap-
Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see heat transfer at controlled temperatures proximately equal to half the combined
13.1). by close contact on both sides of the mass of the undyed fabrics (see 7.2) into
3.4 AATCC EP8, Evaluation Proce- specimen (see 13.4). a uniform sheet of the required size.
dure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic 7.2 Undyed fabrics, two pieces, with Place the sheet between the two undyed
Transference Scale (see 13.1). dimensions appropriate for the heating fabrics and sew along all four sides to
3.5 AATCC EP12, Evaluation Proce- device used. form a composite test specimen.
dure for Instrumental Assessment of De- 7.2.1 One piece shall be of the same
gree of Staining (see 13.1). kind of fiber as that of the textile to be 9. Procedure
3.6 AATCC TM133, Test Method for tested or that predominating in the case of
Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing (see blends. 9.1 Set the heating device to one of the
13.1). 7.2.2 The fiber content of the second following temperatures, based on ex-
3.7 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice piece shall be the second component of pected end use and stability of the speci-
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles the blend; a multifiber fabric, 15 mm (0.6 men.
(see 13.2). in.) bands, containing acetate, cotton, ny- I 150 ± 2°C
3.8 “The Determination of Colour lon, polyester, acrylic and wool; or any II 180 ± 2°C
other fabric of particular interest as speci- III 210 ± 2°C
Fastness to Dry-heat Pleating and Set-
ting.” Journal of the Society of Dyers and fied in the test request. 9.2 Set the device pressure to 4 ± 1
Colourists. March 1960. 76. 158-168. 7.3 Conditioning facilities and racks kPa.

218 AATCC TM117-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
9.3 Place the composite test specimen change (AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7). may be used:
in the heating device and leave it there for 11.3.5 Evaluation procedure for stain- (a) A pair of electrically-heated hot plates
30 s. ing (AATCC EP2, AATCC EP8, or whose temperature is accurately controllable
9.4 Remove the composite specimen AATCC EP12). at temperatures over the specified range and
which can be adjusted to provide a pressure on
and condition as directed in ASTM 11.4 Report the test results: the specimen of 4 ± 1 kPa. To obtain the spec-
D1776. (Use conditions indicated in Ta- 11.4.1 Color change grade for tested ified pressure, the total area of the composite
ble 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate con- specimen. specimen should be at a suitable relationship
ditioning time as indicated in Table 2 for 11.4.2 Staining grade for each undyed to that of the plates so that the four spring-
the appropriate fiber content.) Lay each fabric and/or multifiber fabric strip. loaded pins acting against the housing of the
swatch or product, separately, on a screen 11.5 Describe any modification(s) of upper plate is utilized. This is accomplished
or perforated shelf of a conditioning/dry- the published method. by using a small-diameter rod—e.g., a small
ing rack. Allen wrench—to push the upper protruding
end of each pin down through the plastic plate
12. Precision and Bias and then moving it slightly to one side so that
10. Evaluation the pin remains engaged against the underside
12.1 Precision. Precision for this test of the plate. These spring-loaded pins, when in
10.1 Evaluate color change of the test method has not been established. Until a their normal up position, provide a counter
specimen. precision statement is generated for this balance to the weight of the upper plate and its
10.1.1 For visual evaluation, evaluate test method, use standard statistical tech- housing so that the pressure between the plates
color change of the specimen as directed niques in making any comparisons of test is 8.8 g/cm2. Other similar devices providing
in AATCC EP1. results for either within-laboratory or identical test conditions and results may be
10.1.2 For instrumental evaluation, between-laboratory averages. used.
evaluate color change of the specimen as 12.2 Bias. The colorfastness to dry heat (b) Molten metal bath, in which a holder
directed in AATCC EP7. (excluding pressing) can be defined only containing the composite specimen is im-
mersed, as described in “The Determination
10.2 Evaluate staining on each undyed in terms of a test method. There is no in- of Colour Fastness to Dry-heat Pleating and
fabric and each strip of the multifiber fab- dependent method for determining the Setting.”).
ric, as appropriate. true value. As a means of estimating this 13.5 For very critical evaluations and in the
10.2.1 For visual evaluation, evaluate property, the method has no known bias. cases of arbitration, ratings must be based on
staining on each undyed fabric and/or the geometric Gray Scale for Staining.
multifiber fabric strip as directed in 13. Notes
AATCC EP2 or AATCC EP8 (see 13.5). 14. History
10.2.2 For instrumental evaluation, 13.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
evaluate staining on each undyed fabric 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, 14.1 Revised in 2019 for clarification and
and/or multifiber fabric strip as directed USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; to align format with AATCC style.
www.aatcc.org. 14.2 Revised (with title change) 2018. Edi-
in AATCC EP12. 13.2 Available from ASTM International, torially revised 2016. Editorially revised and
100 Barr Harbor Dr, W Conshohocken PA reaffirmed 2013. Editorially revised 2010. Ed-
11. Report 19428, USA; +1.610.832. 9500; www.astm. itorially revised and reaffirmed 2009. Editori-
org. ally revised 2008. Editorially revised and
11.1 Describe or identify the sample 13.3 For potential equipment information reaffirmed 2004. Editorially revised 2002. Ed-
tested. pertaining to this test method, please visit the itorially revised 2001. Editorially revised and
11.2 Report that the sample was tested online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. reaffirmed 1999. Editorially revised and reaf-
using AATCC TM117-2019. aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility firmed 1994. Reaffirmed 1989. Editorially re-
11.3 Report the testing conditions: of listing equipment and materials sold by its vised 1988. Editorially revised 1985.
11.3.1 Temperature of test. Corporate members, but AATCC does not Reaffirmed 1984. Editorially revised 1983.
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- Editorially revised 1981. Reaffirmed 1979.
11.3.2 Heating device used. tify that any of the listed equipment or Reaffirmed 1976. Revised 1973. Revised
11.3.3 Nominal fiber content of test materials meets the requirements in its test 1971. Revised 1967.
specimen and undyed fabrics. methods. 14.3 Developed in 1966 by AATCC Com-
11.3.4 Evaluation procedure for color 13.4 One of the following heating devices mittee RR54. Maintained by RA99.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM117-2019 219
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM118-2020e

Test Method for Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance

Foreword 5. Safety Precautions bered according to Table I.
7.3 AATCC blotting paper (see 13.1).
This test method was developed to de- NOTE: These safety precautions are
tect the presence of a fluorochemical fin- for information purposes only. The pre- 7.4 Laboratory gloves (general purpose
ish by evaluating the fabric’s resistance to cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- is sufficient).
wetting by liquid hydrocarbons of differ- dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
ent surface tensions. sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 8. Specimens
safe and proper techniques in handling
1. Purpose and Scope materials in this test method. Manufac- 8.1 Test two (2) specimens of the same
turers MUST be consulted for specific size from each sample (see 13.6).
1.1 This test method is used to deter- 8.2 Specimen size should be sufficient
details such as material safety data sheets
mine the existence of finishing com- to allow for the complete range of test
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
pounds capable of imparting a low en- liquids to be evaluated, but shall be no
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
ergy surface by evaluating the fabric’s smaller than 20 × 20 cm (8 × 8 in.) and no
must also be consulted and followed.
resistance to wetting. larger than 20 × 40 cm (8 × 16 in.)
5.1 Follow good laboratory practices.
1.2 This test method is applicable to all
Wear safety glasses and impervious
types of fabrics.
gloves when handling test liquids in all 9. Conditioning
2. Principle laboratory areas.
5.2 The hydrocarbons specified in this 9.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec-
2.1 Drops of standard test liquids, con- method are flammable. Keep away from imens as directed in ASTM D1776. (Use
sisting of a selected series of hydrocar- heat, sparks and open flame. Use with ad- conditions indicated in Table 1 for Tex-
bons (oils) with varying surface tensions, equate ventilation. Avoid prolonged tiles, general. Estimate conditioning time
are placed on the fabric surface and ob- breathing of vapor or contact with skin. as indicated in Table 2 for the appropriate
served for wetting, wicking and contact Do not take internally. fiber content.) Lay each swatch or prod-
angle. The oil repellency grade is re- 5.3 Exposure to chemicals used in this uct, separately, on a screen or perforated
ported, which is the numerical value of procedure must be controlled at or below shelf of a conditioning/drying rack.
the highest numbered test liquid that does levels set by governmental authorities
not wet the fabric surface. Results are re- [e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
ported as a grade from 8 to 0, with 8 rep- Administration’s (OSHA) permissible 10. Procedure and Evaluation
resenting the most oil repellency and 0 exposure limits (PEL) as found in 29 10.1 Use silicone-free equipment,
representing the least oil repellency. Half- CFR 1910.1000; see www.osha.gov for benches and gloves. Use of silicone-con-
grades may be assigned. A grade of zero latest version]. In addition, the American taining products could adversely affect
(0) can be assigned when the fabric fails Conference of Governmental Industrial the oil repellency grade.
the mineral oil test liquid. Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val- 10.2 Place two pieces of blotting paper
ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted on a smooth, horizontal surface.
3. Referenced Documents averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo- 10.3 Place a test specimen flat over
NOTE: Use current versions of all sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim- each piece of blotting paper.
publications unless otherwise specified. its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen-
eral guide for air contaminant exposure 10.3.1 When evaluating open weave
3.1 AATCC TM193, Aqueous Liquid fabrics, conduct the test on at least two
Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Re- which should be met.
layers of the fabric; otherwise, the test
sistance (see 13.1)
3.2 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice 6. Uses and Limitations
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
(see 13.2). 6.1 This test method is not intended to Table I—Standard Test Liquids (see 13.7)
3.3 29 CFR 1910.1000, Air Contami- give an absolute measure of the resis-
nants (see 13.3). tance of the fabric to staining by all oily Melting or
materials. Other factors, such as compo- AATCC Oil Boiling --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

sition and viscosity of the oily sub- Repellency Point

4. Terminology Grade Composition Range N*
stances, fabric construction, fiber type,
4.1 grade, n.— the number assigned to dyes, other finishing agents, etc., also in- 0 None (does
a test specimen resulting from compari- fluence stain resistance. This test can, not repel
son to a scale. mineral oil)
however, provide a rough index of oil 1 Mineral oil 174-177°C 31.5
4.2 oil repellency, n.—in textiles, the stain resistance, in that generally the 2 65:35 mineral oil: N/A N/A
characteristic of a fiber, yarn or fabric higher the oil repellency grade, the better n-hexadecane
whereby it resists wetting by oily liquids. resistance to staining by oily materials, (by volume)
4.3 wetting, n.—the point at which a especially liquid oil substances. This is 3 n-hexadecane 17-18°C 27.3
drop of liquid loses its light reflection particularly true when comparing various 4 n-tetradecane 4-6°C 26.4
characteristic, i.e., when it changes to a finishes for a given fabric. 5 n-dodecane -10.5–-9.0°C 24.7
dull, wet spot due to the absorbent pro- 6 n-decane 173-175°C 23.5
pensity of textile materials. 7. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.4) 7 n-octane 124-126°C 21.4
4.4 wicking, n.—in textiles, the move- 8 n-heptane 98-99°C 19.8
ment of a liquid, by capillary action, 7.1 Dropping bottles (see 13.5).
along or through a material. 7.2 Test liquids prepared and num- *N = dynes/cm at 25°C.

220 AATCC TM118-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
liquid may wet the underlying surface, placing drops. DO NOT TOUCH THE drop.
not the actual test fabric, and thereby FABRIC WITH THE DROPPER TIP. Description of Fig. 2 [Grade D]—
cause confusion in the reading of the re- 10.6 Observe the drops for 30 ± 2 s, When 3 or more of the 5 drops of a test
sults. from approximately a 45° angle. liquid applied show complete wetting.
10.4 Wearing clean laboratory gloves, 10.7 If no penetration or wetting of the Description of Fig. 2 [Grade C]—
brush the pile of napped or pile fabrics fabric at the liquid-fabric interface and no When 3 or more of the 5 drops of a test
with your hand in the direction causing wicking around the 3 of the 5 drops oc- liquid applied show wicking with loss of
the pile to lay flat prior to placing the cur, place drops of the next higher-num- contact angle.
drops of the test liquid. bered test liquid at an adjacent site on the Description of Fig. 2 [Grade B]—
10.5 Beginning with the lowest-num- fabric and again observe for 30 ± 2 s. When 3 or more of the 5 drops of a test
bered test liquid (AATCC Oil Test Grade 10.8 Continue this procedure until one liquid applied show a rounded drop with
Liquid No. 1), carefully place small drops of the test liquids shows obvious wetting partial darkening of the test specimen.
[approximately 5 mm (0.187 in.) in diam- or wicking of the fabric around 3 of the 5 Description of Fig. 2 [Grade A]—
eter or 0.05 mL volume] on each test drops under or around the drop within 30 When 3 or more of the 5 drops of a test
specimen in five locations along the fill- ± 2 s. If wetting occurs, the test is stopped, liquid applied show a clear well rounded
ing direction. Place drops approximately and user should proceed to grading. appearance with high contact angle.
4.0 cm (1.5 in.) apart (see Fig. 1). Hold 10.9 Compare drops to the examples in 10.10 The Oil Repellency Grade is
the dropper tip approximately 0.6 cm Fig. 2 and descriptions below. Assign the then determined by subtracting 0.5 from
(0.25 in.) from the fabric surface while corresponding letter grade (A-D) to each the highest numbered borderline pass (3
out of 5 Grade B or higher) test liquid
number. For example:
Test Liquid 5: A, A, A, B, B
Test Liquid 6: A, B, B, B, C
Test Liquid 7: B, B, B, C, C
Test Liquid 8: B, B, C, C, C
The Oil Repellency Grade for the
above example would be calculated by
test liquid 7 minus 0.5 equals grade 6.5.
10.10.1 Different types of wetting may
be observed depending on the finish, fi-
ber, construction, etc.; evaluation can be
difficult on certain fabrics.
10.10.2 Wetting of the fabric is nor-
mally evidenced by a darkening of the
fabric at the liquid-fabric interface or
wicking and/or loss of contact angle of
the drop.
10.10.3 Many fabrics will show com-
plete resistance to wetting by a given test
liquid (Fig. 2 [A]), followed by immedi-
ate penetration by the next higher-num-
bered test liquid making the end point
Bottom Row shows Test Liquid 6; Top Row shows Test Liquid 0 and oil repellency grade obvious. How-
ever, some fabrics will show progressive
Fig. 1—Test liquid placement example. wetting under several test liquids as evi-
denced by a partial darkening of the fab-
ric at the liquid-fabric interface (Fig 2 [B,
C and D]. For these fabrics, the end point
and oil repellency grade is the test liquid
number which exhibits complete darken-
ing of the interface or any wicking within
30 ± 2 s.
10.10.4 Wicking is the key. If the sam-
ple does not exhibit wicking but spreads
(as in glass) then it is grade A. If sample
exhibits wicking but still has a contact
angle, then it is a grade C.
10.10.5 On black or dark fabrics, wet-
ting can be detected by loss of “sparkle”
within the drop; the aid of a small desk
lamp or flashlight may be used for this
detection.
A = Passes; clear well-rounded drop 10.11 When the AATCC Oil Repel-
B = Borderline pass; rounding drop with partial darkening lency Grade for both specimens of a fab-
C = Fails; wicking apparent and/or complete wetting ric are the same, this is the grade for the
D = Fails; complete wetting sample.
10.12 When the AATCC Oil Repel-
Fig. 2—Grading example. lency Grade for 2 specimens of a fabric

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM118-2020e 221
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
are NOT the same, test a third specimen. AATCC Technical Center by the subcom- 13.4 For potential equipment information
10.12.1 If any 2 of the 3 specimen mittee and visual examples were included pertaining to this test method, please visit the
grades are the same, this is the grade for in the protocol. The fabrics were limited online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
the sample. to polyester/cotton materials. The unit of aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
10.12.2 If all 3 specimen grades are measure was the median of the grades of Corporate members, but AATCC does not
different, the median is the grade for the the 2 (or 3) specimens rated each day. qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or
sample. For example, if the first two 12.2 The components of variance as certify that any of the listed equipment or
specimen grades are 3 and 4, and the standard deviations of the AATCC Oil materials meets the requirements in its test
third specimen grade is 4.5, the sample Repellency Grade were calculated to be methods.
grade is 4 (median of 3, 4, 4.5). Do not as follows: 13.5 For convenience, transfer the test liq-
calculate the mean of specimen grades. uids from stock solutions to dropping bottles,
AATCC Oil Repellency Test each marked with the appropriate AATCC Oil
Single operator 0.27 Repellency Grade number. A typical system
11. Report found useful consists of 60-mL dropping bot-
Between operators/
11.1 Describe or identify the fabric within laboratories 0.30 tles with ground-in pipettes and Neoprene
Between laboratories 0.39 bulbs. Prior to use, the bulbs should be soaked
tested. in heptane for several hours and then rinsed in
11.2 Report that the sample was tested 12.3 Critical differences. For the com- fresh heptane to remove soluble substances. It
using AATCC Test Method 118-2019. ponents of variance in 12.2, 2 observa- has been found helpful to place the test liquids

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
11.3 Report the testing conditions: tions should be considered significantly in sequential order in a wooden platform on
11.3.1 Report the specimen size. different at the 95% probability level if the evaluation table.
11.3.2 Report the number of specimens the difference equals or exceeds the criti- 13.6 If AATCC TM193 and AATCC
tested. cal differences shown in Table II. TM118 are done concurrently, use the same
11.4 Report the test results: specimen sizes for each test.
12.4 Bias. The true value of the oil re-
11.4.1 Report the sample AATCC Oil 13.7 Purity of test liquids does affect sur-
pellency grade can only be defined in face tension of the liquid. Use only analytical
Repellency Grade determined. terms of this test method. Within this lim- grades of test liquids. Mineral oil, for the pur-
11.5 Describe any modification(s) of itation, this test method has no known pose of this test, is defined as the commercial
the published method. bias. product commonly known as White Mineral
Oil, USP, Food Grade or better, CAS #8042-
12. Precision and Bias 47-5, with a Saybolt viscosity at 38°C (100°F)
13. Notes of 340-360, boiling point of 174-177°C (346-
12.1 Summary. Interlaboratory tests 13.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box 350°F), specific gravity of 0.840-0.890, and
were conducted in September 1990 and 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, flash point greater than 188°C (370°F); Kay-
April 1991 to establish the precision of USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; dol and Crystal Plus are two well-known trade
this test method. The September interlab www.aatcc. org. names in the United States; other brands may
involved 2 operators at each of 9 labora- 13.2 Available from ASTM International, be suitable. All test liquids are available from
local chemical suppliers.
tories rating 2 specimens of each of 4 fab- 100 Barr Harbor Dr, W Conshohocken PA
rics each day for 3 days. The grades of 19428, USA; +1.610.832.9500; www.astm.
this interlab were concentrated into the 1- org. 14. History
2 and 4-5 regions of the scale. The April 13.3 Available from U.S. Government Pub-
lishing Office; www.govinfo.gov. 14.1 Editorially revised 2021 to update
interlab was conducted with fabrics re- from CAS# 8012-95-1 (which is paraffin oil)
sponding in the 2-3 and 5-7 portions of to CAS #8042-47-5 (which is white mineral
the scale. This interlab involved 2 opera- oil) to correct the reference.
tors at each of 7 laboratories rating 2 Table II—Critical Differencesa 14.2 Revised 2020, 2019; editorially re-
specimens of each of 2 fabrics each day No. of Single Within Between
vised 2016; revised 2013; reaffirmed 2012;
for 2 days. (Day interaction was shown editorially revised 2010, 2008; revised 2007;
Observationsb Operator Laboratory Laboratory
not to be a significant factor in the analy- editorially revised 2004; reaffirmed 2002; edi-
sis of the September interlab.) Results 1 0.75 1.12 1.55 torially revised and reaffirmed 1997; editori-
2 0.53 0.99 1.45 ally revised 1995; revised 1992; editorially
from both interlabs were combined for revised 1990; reaffirmed 1989; editorially re-
calculation of critical values. All materi- 3 0.43 0.94 1.42
vised 1986, 1985; reaffirmed 1978, 1975,
als necessary for the interlabs were pro- a
The critical differences were calculated using t - 1972.
vided to each laboratory by AATCC in- 1.950, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom. 14.3 Developed in 1966 by AATCC Com-
cluding the standard test liquids. A video b
An observation is a unit of measure obtained from mittee RA56. Technically equivalent to ISO
of the grading procedure prepared at the the median of the grades for 2 (or 3) specimens. 14419.

222 AATCC TM118-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM119-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to

Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire
Foreword uate Frosting Potential Caused by Abra-
sive Wear,” Gobeil, N.B. and D’Alessan-
This test method was developed by an in- dro, P.L. American Dyestuff Reporter,
dustry committee, and was known as the November 22, 1965. 54(24), 42-49 (see
Industry Committee Test. It was first pub- 14.1).
lished as “A Proposed Test Method to
Evaluate Frosting Potential Caused by
Abrasive Wear” in 1965. This method ap- 4. Terminology
proximates localized color change similar 4.1 abrasion, n.—the wearing away of
to that produced on some garments over any part of a material by rubbing against
relatively short periods of actual wear in another surface.
which the garment is exposed to rela- 4.2 frosting, n.—in textiles, a change
tively mild abrasive action. To evaluate of fabric color caused by localized abra-
the effect of relatively severe abrasion ac- sive wear. (Syn: differential wear, fibril-
tion, refer to AATCC TM120. lation).
NOTE: Frosting may be the result of
1. Purpose and Scope differential wear, as in multicomponent
1.1 This test method is intended for blends in which the fibers do not match in
evaluating the resistance of colored fab- shade, or of the abrasion of single-fiber
rics to change in shade caused by flat constructions in which there is a variation
abrasion. in or incomplete penetration of dye.
1.2 It can be used for all colored fab-
rics, but is especially sensitive to the 5. Safety Precautions
color change of durable-press, cross-dyed Fig. 1—Universal Wear Tester
NOTE: These safety precautions are prepared for frosting test.
blend fabrics, in which one fiber is for information purposes only. The pre-
abraded away faster than another. cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ter rinsing.
2. Principle sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.6 Cloth, white cotton, for ironing.
2.1 The fabric specimen is mounted safe and proper techniques in handling 6.7 Hand iron.
over a foam rubber cushion and rubbed materials in this test method. Users
6.8 Equipment and environment for
multi-directionally against a wire screen MUST consult manufacturers for specific
evaluating color change.
mounted on a weighted head. After rins- details such as safety data sheets and
other manufacturer’s recommendations. 6.8.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray
ing and conditioning, specimens are eval- Scale for Color Change (see 14.1). Refer
uated for color change. Color change is Consult and follow all applicable OSHA
standards and rules. to AATCC EP1 for additional materials
reported as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5 and use of gray scale.
representing no color change and 1 repre- 5.1 Follow good laboratory practices.
6.8.2 For instrumental evaluation, use
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

senting the most color change. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar-
eas. a spectrophotometer as specified in
AATCC EP7.
5.2 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec-
3. Referenced Documents
ommendations when operating laboratory
testing equipment. 7. Specimens
NOTE: Use current versions of all
publications unless otherwise specified. 7.1 Cut a minimum of 2 specimens 127
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.3) × 127 mm from each sample (see 14.4).
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change Take no specimen from within one-tenth
(see 14.1). 6.1 Conditioning facilities and racks of the width of the fabric from either sel-
3.2 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- with pull-out, perforated shelves for lay- vage. Cut specimens with sides parallel
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the ing specimens flat (see 14.1). to fabric length and width.
Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see 6.2 Stoll—Universal Wear Tester (see 7.2 Mark length direction on back side
14.1). 9.2, 9.3 and Fig. 1). of specimen.
3.3 AATCC LP1, Laboratory Proce- 6.3 Frosting unit (see Fig. 2).
dure for Home Laundering: Machine 6.3.1 Circular frosting specimen holder
Washing (see 14.1). (see 9.4).
8. Conditioning
3.4 AATCC TM120, Test Method for 6.3.2 Rubber O ring.
Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): 6.3.3 Conical mounting piece. 8.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec-
Emery (see 14.1). 6.3.4 Side clamps. imens as directed in ASTM D1776. (Use
3.5 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice 6.4 Abradant, stainless steel wire conditions indicated in Table 1 for Tex-
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles screening, 16 mesh, 0.23 mm wire (see tiles, general. Estimate conditioning time
(see 14.2). 9.5). as indicated in Table 2 for the appropriate
3.6 “A Proposed Test Method to Eval- 6.5 Towels, for blotting specimens af- fiber content.) Lay each swatch or prod-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM119-2019 223
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ing piece over the specimen. (This
mounting piece holds the specimen over
the foam rubber cushion and facilitates
the insertion of the rubber O ring over the
test specimen into the groove. The rubber
O ring holds the sample firmly in place
without distortion during the test.) Insert
the rubber O ring over the specimen and
into the groove. Remove the mounting
piece.
10.5 Return the surface abrasion head
(with the test specimen) to the reciprocat-
ing table.
10.6 Attach the abradant screen to the
abradant head. Apply necessary tension
by means of the front tension clamp. Se-
cure sides with side clamps.
10.7 Apply head weights totaling 1134
g to the balanced abradant head.
10.8 Adjust rotary motor pawl to rotate
the surface abrasion head approximately
one revolution per 100 cycles.
10.9 Gently lower the head until it con-
tacts the test specimen and push the
“start” button.
10.10 Abrade for 1200 cycles and stop
the machine.
10.11 Remove abrasion head with the
abraded specimen and remove the test
specimen.
10.12 Hand rinse the test specimen in
clear lukewarm water at 38°C (100ºF) to
remove detritus; blot between towels to
Fig. 2—Schematic drawing of frosting unit. remove excess water.
10.13 Place specimen face down be-
tween two pieces of clean white cotton
uct, separately, on a screen or perforated 9.5 It is imperative that the warp of the cloth and press with a hand iron set at ap-
shelf of a conditioning/drying rack. abradant screen be parallel to the recipro- proximately 149°C (300°F) until dry.
cating motion of the upper head. Wash 10.14 Repeat the procedure for all re-
9. Preparation of Specimens and new screens to remove oil. After each maining specimens.
Apparatus test, clean the screen of detritus with a 10.15 Recondition specimens at as de-
compressed air gun with a safety nozzle. scribed in Section 8 before evaluating.
9.1 To obtain information pertinent to Wash the screen periodically in a mild
the behavior of the fabric in actual use, it detergent to remove possible build-up of
may sometimes be desirable to pretreat 11. Evaluation
matter which cannot be blown off with an
test specimens, as by laundering, before air gun. Replace worn or defective 11.1 For visual evaluation, evaluate
subjecting them to the frosting test. See screens promptly. color change of each abraded specimen
AATCC LP1 for standard home launder- as directed in AATCC EP1, with modi-
ing procedures. 10. Procedure fied viewing angles.
9.2 At regular intervals, check the op-
10.1 Conduct the test in the standard 11.1.1 Place the specimen flat on the
eration of the frosting tester with one or
atmosphere for testing textiles: 65 ± 5% viewing table with the illumination over-
more standard fabrics of known frosting
relative humidity and 21 ± 2ºC (70 ± head. The light should be sufficiently dif-
properties.
4ºF). fused so that shadows are not caused by
9.3 Verify that instrument head will
viewing the specimen from overhead.
neither fall forward nor tilt backward 10.2 Remove the circular surface abra-
Align the specimen with machine (warp
when not loaded with weights. If the head sion head from the reciprocating table of
or wale) direction in the line of sight.
is not balanced, the abrasion pressure be- the abrasion tester by removing the circu-
tween screen and fabric will be altered. lar locking stud in the center. Use the spe- 11.1.2 Keep the specimen stationary
9.4 When the specimen holder with the cial two-pronged wrench supplied with while the viewer moves to adjust viewing
foam rubber cushion is first received, or the frosting unit. angle. Scan the specimen at 0.2-1.57 rad
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

after it has been used extensively, the 10.3 Insert the circular frosting speci- (15°-90°) overhead.
plane of the surface of the rubber head men holder in the surface abrasion head, 11.1.3 Turn the specimen to align the
may not be in perfect alignment with the place the metal O ring over specimen cross (filling or course) direction with the
abradant plate. This may lead to poor or holder, and lock in place with screw col- line of sight. Scan at 0.2-1.57 rad (15°-
uneven wear pattern. Even by abrading lar. 90°) overhead.
the rubber surface (without specimen) on 10.4 Place the first test specimen face 11.2 For instrumental evaluation, eval-
the tester with “0” emery cloth under a up and centrally over the specimen uate color change of each abraded speci-
1134-g head weight. holder, and then place the conical mount- men as directed in AATCC EP7.

224 AATCC TM119-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Report Table I—Critical Difference, Gray als meets the requirements in its test methods.
Scale Units, Using AATCC EP1, 14.4 For the optimum number of speci-
12.1 Describe or identify the sample For the Conditions Noted* mens, unless otherwise agreed upon (for in-
tested. stance, provided for by an applicable materials
12.2 Report that the sample was tested Within- Between- specification), test the number of test speci-
using AATCC TM119-2019. Laboratory Laboratory mens required to secure a precision of the
12.3 Report the testing conditions: n Precision Precision mean of the test result of ± 0.5 units on the
Gray Scale at a probability level of 95%, cal-
12.3.1 Number of specimens. 2 0.4 1.4 culated as follows:
12.3.2 Evaluation procedure for color 4 0.3 1.4
change (AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7). 8 0.2 1.4 n = 15.4 σ2
12.4 Report the test results: where:
12.4.1 Individual and average color *The critical differences were calculated using t = n = number of test specimens and
change grade for tested specimens. 1.960, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom. σ = standard deviation of results for indi-
12.5 Describe any modification(s) of Note: The tabulated values of the critical differences vidual specimens determined from ex-
shown are based on results obtained using EP1. The tensive past records on similar
the published method. material.
critical differences for results obtained using EP7 may
not be the same. Moreover, the values shown in
13. Precision and Bias Table I should be considered a general statement If σ is not known, test 4 specimens for
only, particularly with respect to between-laboratory within-laboratory determinations; test 9 speci-
13.1 Precision. Interlaboratory tests precision. Before a meaningful statement can be mens for between-laboratory determinations.
were conducted in 1966 and 1967 in made about two specific laboratories, the statistical The number of tests prescribed above is
which 5 laboratories each made 2 obser- bias between them, if any, must be established, with based on σ = 0.5 Gray Scale units for single-
each comparison being based on data obtained on operator, single-laboratory results, and σ =
vations on each of 8 fabrics. All evalua- 0.75 Gray Scale units for between-laboratory
randomized specimens from one sample of the mate-
tions were performed with AATCC EP1. rial to be tested. results, somewhat higher values of σ than will
13.1.1 The precision of this test usually be found in practice. Knowledge of
method is dependent on the combined the correct σ is, therefore, likely to permit test-
variability of the material being tested, ing fewer than the number of specimens speci-
the test method itself, and the evaluation the method has no known bias. fied above.
procedure utilized.
13.1.2 The components of variance, 14. Notes 15. History
expressed as standard deviations, were
calculated to be: Within-laboratory com- 15.1 Revised (with title change) in 2019 for
14.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box clarification and to align format with AATCC
ponent, 0.3 Gray Scale units; Between- 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, style.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

laboratory component, 0.5 Gray Scale USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; 15.2 Editorially revised 2016. Editorially
units. www.aatcc.org. revised and reaffirmed 2013. Editorially re-
13.1.3 Two averages of observed val- 14.2 Available from ASTM International, vised 2010. Reaffirmed 2009. Reaffirmed
ues should be considered significantly 100 Barr Harbor Dr, W Conshohocken PA 2004. Reaffirmed 1999. Editorially revised
different at the 95% probability level if 19428, USA; +1.610.832. 9500; www.astm.org. 1997. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1994.
the difference equals or exceeds the criti- 14.3 For potential equipment information Reaffirmed 1989. Editorially revised 1986.
cal differences listed in Table I. pertaining to this test method, please visit the Editorially revised 1985. Editorially revised
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. and reaffirmed 1984. Editorially revised 1980.
13.2 Bias. The colorfastness to flat aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1979. Reaf-
abrasion can be defined only in terms of a of listing equipment and materials sold by its firmed 1977. Reaffirmed 1974. Reaffirmed
test method. There is no independent Corporate members, but AATCC does not 1970.
method for determining the true value. qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 15.3 Developed in 1967 by AATCC Com-
As a means of estimating this property, tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- mittee RR29. Maintained by RA99.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM119-2019 225
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM120-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Emery

4. Terminology 7. Specimens
Foreword 4.1 abrasion, n.—the wearing away of 7.1 Cut 2 circular specimens approxi-
any part of a material by rubbing against mately 10.8 cm in diameter. Take no
This test method was developed from another surface. specimen within one-tenth of the width of
the Celanese Corp’s test procedure APD; 4.2 frosting, n.—in textiles, a change the fabric from either selvage.
EL 9C, and was known as the Celanese of fabric color caused by localized abra- 7.2 Mark length direction on back side
Test. This method approximates localized sive wear. (Syn: differential wear, fibril- of specimen.
color change similar to that produced on lation).
some garments over relatively long peri-
ods of actual wear in which the garment NOTE: Frosting may be the result of 8. Conditioning
is exposed to relatively severe abrasive differential wear, as in multicomponent
blends in which the fibers do not match in 8.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec-
action. To evaluate the effect of relatively imens as directed in ASTM D1776. (Use
shade, or of the abrasion of single-fiber

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
mild abrasion action, refer to AATCC conditions indicated in Table 1 for Tex-
TM119. constructions in which there is a variation
in, or incomplete penetration of dye. tiles, general. Estimate conditioning time
as indicated in Table 2 for the appropriate
fiber content.) Lay each swatch or prod-
1. Purpose and Scope 5. Safety Precautions uct, separately, on a screen or perforated
1.1 This test method is intended for NOTE: These safety precautions are shelf of a conditioning/drying rack.
evaluating the resistance of colored fab- for information purposes only. The pre-
rics to changes in shade caused by flat cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 9. Preparation of Specimens and
abrasion. dures and are not intended to be all inclu- Apparatus
1.2 It can be used for all colored fab- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 9.1 To obtain information pertinent to
rics, but is especially sensitive to poor safe and proper techniques in handling the behavior of the fabric in actual use, it
dye penetration in all-cotton fabrics and materials in this test method. Users may sometimes be desirable to pretreat
to abrasion-caused changes in color of MUST consult manufacturers for specific test specimens, as by laundering, before
union-dyed blends. details such as safety data sheets and subjecting them to the frosting test. See
other manufacturer’s recommendations. AATCC LP1 for standard home launder-
Consult and follow all applicable OSHA ing procedures.
2. Principle standards and rules.
9.2 At regular intervals, check the op-
2.1 The fabric specimen is mounted 5.1 Follow good laboratory practices. eration of the frosting tester with one or
over a diaphragm inflated under con- Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar- more standard fabrics of known frosting
trolled air pressure and rubbed multi-di- eas. properties.
rectionally against an emery abradant 5.2 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec- 9.3 Verify that instrument head will
surface mounted on a weighted head. Af- ommendations when operating laboratory neither fall forward nor tilt backward
ter rinsing and conditioning, specimens testing equipment. when not loaded with weights. If the head
are evaluated for color change. Color is not balanced, the abrasion pressure be-
change is reported as a grade from 5 to 1, 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.3) tween screen and fabric will be altered.
with 5 representing no color change and 1
representing the most color change. 6.1 Conditioning facilities and racks 10. Procedure
with pull-out, perforated shelves for lay-
ing specimens flat (see 14.1). 10.1 Conduct the test in the standard
3. Referenced Documents 6.2 Stoll-Universal Wear Tester atmosphere for testing textiles: 65 ± 5%
6.3 Rubber diaphragm, without electri- relative humidity and 21 ± 2ºC (70 ± 4ºF).
NOTE: Use current versions of all cal contact point. 10.2 Place an unused strip of emery
publications unless otherwise specified. paper around the abradant plate and
6.4 Emery polishing paper, 600 grit,
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- 3.8 × 22.8 cm (see 14.4). clamp at each end. Apply the minimum
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change amount of tension on the paper that is
(see 14.1). 6.5 Vacuum cleaner.
necessary to make it lie flat against the
3.2 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- 6.6 Towels, for blotting specimens af-
lower surface of the abradant plate.
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the ter rinsing.
10.3 Place the first test specimen (face
Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see 6.7 Cloth, white cotton, for ironing. up) over the rubber diaphragm (without
14.1). 6.8 Hand iron. electrical contact) so that the fabric is free
3.3 AATCC LP1, Laboratory Proce- 6.9 Equipment and environment for from wrinkles. Clamp the test specimen
dure for Home Laundering: Machine evaluating color change. against the diaphragm with the clamping
Washing (see 14.1). 6.9.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray ring, taking care not to distort the fabric.
3.4 AATCC TM119, Test Method for Scale for Color Change (see 14.1). Refer 10.4 Set the air pressure on the dia-
Colorfastness to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): to AATCC EP1 for additional materials phragm to 20.68 kPa and place a 1361-g
Screen Wire (see 14.1). and use of gray scale. load on the balanced head.
3.5 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice 6.9.2 For instrumental evaluation, use 10.5 Engage the rotation mechanism of
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles a spectrophotometer as specified in the specimen clamp to cause multidirec-
(see 14.2). AATCC EP7. tional abrasion on the specimen.

226 AATCC TM120-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.6 Gently lower the abradant plate 11.1.2 Keep the specimen stationary estimating this property, the method has
with the emery paper until it contacts the while the viewer moves to adjust viewing no known bias.
specimen, and push the “start” button. angle. Scan the specimen at 0.27-1.57 rad
(The lower carriage should oscillate at a (15°-90°) overhead. 14. Notes
speed of approximately 120 cycles/min). 11.1.3 Turn the specimen to align the
10.7 Allow the carriage to oscillate for cross (filling or course) direction with the 14.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
100 continuous cycles, and then stop the line of sight. Scan at 0.2-1.57 rad (15°- 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,
machine. 90°) overhead. USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
10.8 Remove the test specimen from 11.2 For instrumental evaluation, eval- www.aatcc.org.
the machine and vacuum it to remove fi- uate color change of each abraded speci- 14.2 Available from ASTM International,
100 Barr Harbor Dr, W Conshohocken PA
ber and abradant residue. men as directed in AATCC EP7. 19428, USA; +1.610.832. 9500; www.astm.
10.9 Hand rinse the test specimen in org.
clear lukewarm water at 38ºC (100ºF) to 12. Report 14.3 For potential equipment information
remove remaining detritus; blot between pertaining to this test method, please visit the
towels to remove excess water. 12.1 Describe or identify the sample online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
10.10 Place specimen face down be- tested. aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
tween two pieces of clean white cotton 12.2 Report that the sample was tested of listing equipment and materials sold by its
cloth and press with a hand iron set at ap- using AATCC TM120-2019. Corporate members, but AATCC does not
proximately 149ºC (300ºF) until dry. 12.3 Report the testing conditions: qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
10.11 Repeat the procedure for the re- 12.3.1 Emery paper used. tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
12.3.2 Evaluation procedure for color als meets the requirements in its test methods.
maining specimen.
change (AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7). 14.4 The method originally called for 0
10.12 If a specimen slips in the clamp, grade emery paper. The current specification
the air pressure does not remain constant 12.4 Report the test results: of 600 grit provides the same abrasive action,
or an abnormal wear pattern is obtained, 12.4.1 Individual and average color but is a more precise measure and should be
discard the specimen and repeat the test change grade for tested specimens. consistent among manufacturers.
on an additional specimen. 12.5 Describe any modification(s) of
10.13 Recondition specimens as de- the published method. 15. History
scribed in Section 8 before evaluating.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

13. Precision and Bias 15.1 Revised (with title change) in 2019 for
11. Evaluation clarification and alignment of format with
13.1 Precision. Precision for this test AATCC style.
11.1 For visual evaluation, evaluate method has not been established. Until a 15.2 Editorially revised 2016. Editorially
color change of each abraded specimen precision statement is generated for this revised and reaffirmed 2013. Editorially re-
as directed in AATCC EP1, with modi- test method, use standard statistical tech- vised 2010. Reaffirmed 2009. Editorially re-
fied viewing angles. niques in making any comparisons of test vised and reaffirmed 2004. Reaffirmed 1999.
11.1.1 Place the specimen flat on the results for either within-laboratory or be- Editorially revised 1997. Editorially revised
and reaffirmed 1994. Reaffirmed 1989. Edito-
viewing table with the illumination over- tween-laboratory averages. rially revised 1986. Editorially revised and re-
head. The light should be sufficiently dif- 13.2 Bias. The color change due to flat affirmed 1984. Editorially revised and
fused so that shadows are not caused by abrasion, frosting, emery method, can be reaffirmed 1980. Reaffirmed 1977. Reaf-
viewing the specimen from overhead. defined only in terms of a test method. firmed 1974. Reaffirmed 1970.
Align the specimen with machine (warp There is no independent method for de- 15.3 Developed in 1967 by AATCC Com-
or wale) direction in the line of sight. termining the true value. As a means of mittee RR29. Maintained by RA99.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM120-2019 227
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM121-1995e2(2014)e

Test Method for Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating

Developed in 1967 by AATCC Committee 4. Safety Precautions includes half steps. The difference be-
RA57; reaffirmed 1970, 1973, 1976, tween reflectances of the chips in a pair,
1979, 1982, 1989, 2000, 2005, 2010; NOTE: These safety precautions are when plotted on semilog paper against
editorially revised 1986, 1991, 2008, for information purposes only. The pre- the grade step or half step, should form a
2019; editorially revised and reaffirmed cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- straight line. The difference between
1987, 2014; revised 1995. dures and are not intended to be all inclu- chips at the 4-5 step may be in line with
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use the others since this difference is on the
safe and proper techniques in handling order of the variation in the Grade 5
materials in this test method. Manufac- chips. If the other steps form a regular se-
1. Purpose and Scope turers MUST be consulted for specific ries, the 4-5 step is less critical.
details such as material safety data sheets
1.1 This test method covers the mea- and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
surement of the degree of cleanness of tions. All OSHA standards and rules 8. Preparation of Specimens
pile floor coverings, in the range from must also be consulted and followed. 8.1 Clean reference specimen. Use a
clean to a middle degree of soiling. It can 4.1 Good laboratory practices should specimen of original or clean carpet large
be used to measure the accumulation of be followed. Wear safety glasses in all enough to show any pattern of structure
soil, or the removal of soil by a cleaning laboratory areas. of color in a representative way. If there
procedure. It can be used with pile floor are light and dark colors, be sure to locate
coverings of any color, pattern, structure 5. Uses and Limitations the light colors at an edge. Cut a sharp
or fiber content. edge on the reference specimen.
1.2 This test method does not evaluate 5.1 The complex surface structure of 8.2 Leave the soiled floor covering, or
structural appearance changes (see 14.1). pile floor coverings, the depth of the pile the floor covering after cleaning, intact
and its compressibility make it difficult to on the floor, or cut out a specimen conve-
specify a method of measurement of re- nient for handling. If a specimen is cut,
2. Principle flectance appropriate for all classes of use a portion which is representative of
2.1 The degree of difference in clean- pile floor covering or for comparison be- the exposure to soil or to the cleaning
ness between an original or clean area, tween classes. The interpretation of dif- process, as well as representative of the
and the area under examination is deter- ferences in reflectance, particularly for pattern, and which includes the lighter
mined by visual matching with a stepwise materials of different color or original re- colors.
series of differences in gray chips se- flectance, is also uncertain. The present
lected to form a geometrical scale of dif- method avoids both sets of difficulties by 9. Conditioning
ferences on the light-dark axis. obtaining comparison of one difference,
that between clean and soiled, with a 9.1 Use the prevailing room condi-
standardized scale of difference in reflec- tions. Be sure that the floor covering is
3. Terminology tance, by visual recognition of equivalent dry, within normal regain, if on-location
magnitudes of difference. cleaning methods have been used.
3.1 carpet, n.—all textile floor cover-
ings not designated as rugs. 10. Procedure
3.2 cleanness, n.—in carpet soiling 6. Apparatus
tests, the absence of change in appear- 10.1 Place the clean reference speci-
6.1 Gray Scale for Color Change men on the specimen to be examined, or
ance due to soil, specifically the degree to (AATCC EP1) (see 14.2).
which the specimen approaches the origi- beside it, with no gap between the speci-
nal clean, unsoiled condition. mens. Orient the two specimens in the
NOTE: Cleanness is independent of 7. Verification of Gray Scales same way with respect to the structure
changes of physical structure which may and pattern. Use a standard lighting sys-
7.1 Visual verification. Inspection of tem which may include a daylight and ar-
be present because of exposure to traffic
the Gray Scales should show a recogniz- tificial light source. Any other lighting
or action of cleaning procedures.
able, approximately-equal, apparent dif- should be standardized as much as possi-
3.3 soil, n.—dirt, oil or other sub- ference between each successive pair. If ble for visual testing.
stances not normally intended to be such visual stepwise progression is appar- 10.2 Compare the pairs of chips in the
present on a substrate such as a textile ent, the scale is satisfactory. The Gray Gray Scale with the pair of specimens,
material. Scale must be clean for proper evaluation. until the nearest corresponding pair of
3.4 soiling, n.—in textiles, a process by 7.2 Reflectance measurement. If there chips has been found. Use the dark shield
which a textile substrate becomes more is doubt about the visual test, it may be to expose only one pair of chips at a time.
or less uniformly covered with/or im- checked by reflectance measurement. 10.3 Record the number of the step or
pregnated with soil. Use any reflectance measuring equip- half step which most nearly corresponds
3.5 textile floor covering, n.—an arti- ment appropriate to chip size (10 × 38 in difference to the difference in clean-
cle having a use-surface composed of mm). The measured reflectance for each ness between the specimens. Keep in
textile material and generally used for of the chips of Grade 5 and each of the mind that it is degree of difference which
covering floors. reference chips of all the other pairs is being matched; do not attempt to match
3.6 use-surface, n.—of textile floor should differ from their average by less gray shades in the less clean specimen on
covering, the part of a textile floor cover- than one-half the difference between the the Gray Scale.
ing directly exposed to foot traffic. pair in Step 4 for a nine-step scale which 10.4 Repeat the ratings with at least

228 AATCC TM121-1995e2(2014)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM121-1995e2(2014)e 229
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM122-2019

Test Method for Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling

Developed in 1967 by AATCC Commit- 5. Soiling Location with a known level of soiling (the control
tee RA57; reaffirmed 1970, 1973, 1976, sample for example). Install the correct
1979, 1982, 1989, 2000, 2013; editori- 5.1 The soiling location shall be suffi- number of specimens to the soiling area
ally revised 1985, 1990; editorially re- ciently removed from any street or other such that all spaces are filled. Soil the
vised and reaffirmed 1987, 1995; outside area so that the specimen will not known material to the level desired, rotat-
revised 2009, 2019. be subjected to wet traffic. A distance of ing samples such that consistent soiling is
at least 15 m (50 ft) is suggested. obtained on all specimens. Once the rota-
5.2 It shall be sufficiently isolated from tion process has been defined in this man-
greasy, oily or other nontypical soiling ner, document the rotation sequence for
1. Purpose and Scope
which might be present in factory areas future use.
1.1 This test method evaluates the ser- and the like.
vice soiling of textile floor coverings. 5.3 The traffic pattern in the soiling
area shall be such that all specimens are 8. Soiling Levels
subjected to all of the traffic as in the case
2. Principle of a narrow aisle or passageway with ac- 8.1 Control Carpet Soiling Level.
cess only at either end or, alternately, if 8.1.1 The standard levels of soiling
2.1 Specimens of carpets and selected the traffic cannot be so confined or di- must be predetermined prior to conduct-
control samples are exposed to normal rected, it shall be randomized to such a ing the service soiling test. For general
foot traffic in a controlled test area. The degree as to produce the effect of uniform use of this test the soiling intervals may
test specimens and controls are removed soiling. correspond to those required to obtain
and rated at predetermined intervals cor- 5.4 In the case of the long narrow ar- soiling levels of an arbitrarily selected
responding to different degrees of soiling rangement with traffic only in two oppo- carpet (control sample) exposed to give a
or exposure to soiling. site directions, a 2 m (6.5 ft) length of light, medium and high degree of soil
buffer carpet shall be installed at both (see 13.1). Each laboratory should select
ends of the test area. For other arrange- and prepare control soiled samples con-
3. Terminology ments, or where there is a random traffic sistent with the needs of the laboratory. If
pattern, the buffer carpet shall be in- two or more laboratories are involved,
3.1 carpet, n.—all textile floor cover- stalled around the perimeter of the test identical control samples should be avail-
ings not designated as rugs. specimens and may extend for a pro- able for each laboratory.
3.2 soil, n.—dirt, oil or other sub- portionately shorter distance but in no 8.1.2 Test and control specimens are
stances not normally intended to be case for less than 2 m (6.5 ft) in any di- removed from the test pattern at specified
present on a substrate such as a textile rection. The buffer carpet may be of any intervals corresponding to different de-
material. available fiber or construction but should grees of soiling or exposure to soiling.
3.3 soiling, n.—in textiles, a process by be light in color in order to avoid errors 8.1.3 Remove all the specimens from
which a textile substrate becomes more due to the transfer of fiber or dyestuff to the first group whenever the control test
or less uniformly covered with/or im- the test specimens. specimen matches the soiled control sam-
pregnated with soil. ple (first soiling level). This is done re-
3.4 textile floor covering, n.—an arti- gardless of the appearance of the other
cle having a use-surface composed of 6. Carpet Specimens specimens at that time.
textile material and generally used for 6.1 Specimen size. The minimum size 8.1.4 Remove the other specimens and
covering floors. of the test specimens shall be 30 × 30 cm control samples in a similar manner at
3.5 use-surface, n.—of textile floor (12 × 12 in.). the second and third soiling levels,
covering, the part of a textile floor cover- 6.2 Specimen mounting. The carpet respectively.
ing directly exposed to foot traffic. specimens shall be mounted or installed 8.1.5 As each soiling level is reached,
in such a way that the specimens can be replace spaces left vacant by the removal
removed or transported easily. Examples of test and control specimens. Use por-
4. Safety Precautions include the use of double sided tape and tions of the buffer carpet for this purpose.
the mounting of the specimens on 12 mm 8.2 Soiling Level Based on Traffic.
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- (0.5 in.) plywood with staples. 8.2.1 An alternative to the above
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- method is to use a specific amount of
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- traffic to all the test specimens for every
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
7. Arrangement and Rotation of test. The amount of traffic the test speci-
safe and proper techniques in handling
Specimens mens would be exposed to would be es-
materials in this test method. Manufac- tablished prior to testing by the labora-
7.1 The requirements are related to the tory. After that specific level of traffic
turers MUST be consulted for specific dimensions and traffic pattern of the par-
details such as material safety data sheets was attained, the samples would be re-
ticular soiling area. Therefore, it is not moved from the area.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

and other manufacturer’s recommenda- possible to propose a procedure which

tions. All OSHA standards and rules will be universally applicable. Specimen
must also be consulted and followed. rotation is necessary to achieve uniform 9. Evaluation
4.1 Good laboratory practices should soiling.
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 7.2 To find a suitable rotation for each 9.1 After the samples are removed,
laboratory areas. particular soiling area, select a material compare the control sample with the con-

230 AATCC TM122-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
trol soiled sample daily as soon as possi- 11. Evaluation Appendix A
ble after vacuuming. Once the decision is Synthetic Soil Preparation
made to remove a set of specimens, vac- 11.1 Visual evaluation can be used to
uum the set immediately before they are determine differences in degrees of soil- A1. Synthetic Soil Formulation:
removed from the test area. Soiling con- ing (see AATCC TM121, Test Method Ingredient................................. % by Weight
tinues with the specimens being ad- for Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating).
Peat moss (dark) ................................. 38.00
vanced one position each day. Portland cement .................................. 17.00
12. Precision and Bias Kaolin clay.......................................... 17.00
9.2 Records of the traffic count and the
12.1 Precision. Precision for this test Silica (200 mesh) ................................ 17.00
duration of the test may be maintained. Carbon black (Lamp or furnace
method has not been established. Until a black) ................................................ 1.75
precision statement is generated for this Black iron oxide.................................... 0.50
10. Maintenance test method, use standard statistical tech- Mineral oil
niques in making any comparisons of test (medicinal grade).............................. 8.75
10.1 Clean the test specimens daily us- results for either within-laboratory or
ing an upright motor-driven brush-type of between-laboratory averages. A1.1 Peat moss should be dry and free of
vacuum cleaner. lumps.
12.2 Bias. Carpet soiling (service soil- A1.2 Portland cement must be dry. If it
10.1.1 A proper cleaning shall consist ing method) can be defined only in terms contains lumps, discard and use fresh sup-
of four passes of the cleaner over a partic- of a test method. There is no independent ply.
ular area of the carpet. The first pass method for determining the true value. A1.3 Black iron oxide was incorrectly
when starting shall be away from the op- As a means of estimating this property, listed as “red iron oxide” in previous ver-
erator, the second back toward the opera- the method has no known bias. sions of this test method.
tor. The last stroke shall be back toward A1.4 Mix all dry ingredients together
the operator. On the next adjacent section 13. Notes thoroughly before adding mineral oil. Dry
mix at 50°C (122°F) for 6-8 h.
of the specimen to be cleaned, the first A1.5 Place dry mixture in ball mill with
13.1 In the work of Committee RA57, the
stroke shall be away from the operator. soiling levels were defined by nylon cut-pile ceramic balls. Turn mill on and run for ap-
Overlaps due to the width of the speci- carpet samples soiled to three different levels proximately 24 h.
men not being an even multiple of the (light, medium, heavy) (see Appendix A for A1.6 Store mixture in vapor tight con-
cleaner shall be ignored. Synthetic Soil Preparation). tainers with a desiccant.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM122-2019 231
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM124-2018t

Test Method for Smoothness Appearance

of Fabrics after Home Laundering
Developed in 1967 by AATCC Commit- AATCC Three-Dimensional Smoothness 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
tee RA61; revised 1969, 1975, 1982, Replicas. Results are reported as a dations should be followed when operat-
1989 (with title change), 1992, 1996, smoothness appearance (SA) grade of 1 ing laboratory testing equipment.
2005, 2006, 2009 (with title change), to 5, with 1 representing the least smooth-
2010, 2011, 2014, January 2018 (with ness and 5 representing the most smooth- 5. Uses and Limitations
title change), November 2018; editori- ness (no wrinkles).
ally revised 1974, 1983, 1985, 1988, 5.1 This test method is designed to be
1991, 1997, 2004, 2008, 2012, June 3. Terminology used only for evaluating the appearance
2018; reaffirmed 1973; editorially re- of washable fabrics after home launder-
vised and reaffirmed 1978, 1984, 2001. 3.1 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- ing.
Technically equivalent to ISO 7768. cessing or testing of textiles, material that 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
is used to bring the total weight or vol- duct the test under relatively severe laun-
ume of the textiles to an amount specified dering conditions. It is recognized that
Foreword in the procedure. special cycles or features are available on
3.2 durable press, adj.—having the current washing machines and dryers to
This test method and its accompanying ability to retain substantially the initial achieve improved performance on certain
three-dimensional smoothness appear- shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
ance replica set were developed for eval- unwrinkled appearance during use and agitation to protect delicately con-
uation of woven fabrics with a durable- after laundering or drycleaning. structed items, and durable press cycles,
press finish. It is common industry prac- 3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
tice to use the method and scales for eval- a test specimen resulting from compari- duced spin speeds, to minimize wrin-
uation of other textile materials although son to a scale. kling.
some specimens may have different ap- 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
pearance characteristics due to different als, a process intended to remove soils mussiness present in fabrics. The evalua-
fabric constructions. and/or stains by treatment (washing) with tion process is, however, based on the vi-
Standard laundering procedures remain an aqueous detergent solution and nor- sual appearance of specimens including
consistent to allow valid comparison of mally including rinsing, extracting and such effects.
results. Standard procedures represent, drying. 5.4 The Smoothness Appearance Rep-
but may not exactly replicate, current 3.5 laundering creases, n.—sharp licas were cast from woven fabrics. It is
consumer practices, which vary over time folds or lines running in any direction in a understood that the replicas do not dupli-
and among households. Alternate laun- washed or dried specimen. cate other fabric possibilities (knits, non-
dering procedures and machine parame- NOTE: Laundering creases are an un- wovens). The replicas are to be used as
ters may be found in AATCC LP1, Labo- intended result of restricted movement of guides that represent various levels of
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: specimens in a washer or the dryer. fabric smoothness.
Machine Washing, (see 12.3) and ISO 3.6 smoothness appearance, n.—in 5.5 Small specimen sizes will occa-
6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and fabrics, the visual impression of planarity sionally result in wrinkles or creases.
drying procedures for textile testing (see of a specimen quantified by comparison These may not be characteristic of actual
12.8). with a set of reference standards. performance, in use.5.6 The interlabora-
tory reproducibility of the results of this
1. Purpose and Scope 4. Safety Precautions test method depends upon mutual agree-
ment by users of the method on the wash-
1.1 This test method is intended to de- NOTE: These safety precautions are ing and drying conditions as outlined in
termine the smoothness appearance of for information purposes only. The pre- Tables I-IV.
fabrics after being subjected to home cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
laundering procedures. Several washing dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6. Apparatus and Materials (12.1)
and drying procedures provide standard sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
parameters to represent common home safe and proper techniques in handling 6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate
care options. materials in this test method. Manufac- fabric temperature settings.
1.2 Any washable fabric (woven, knit- turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta-
ted or nonwoven) may be evaluated for details such as material safety data sheets ble I, 12.2), for machine washing.
smoothness appearance using this and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing.
method. tions. All OSHA standards and rules 6.4 White towels, large enough to ac-
must also be consulted and followed. commodate test specimen, any weight,
2. Principle 4.1 Good laboratory practices should for hand washing.
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
2.1 Fabric specimens are subjected to laboratory areas. IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or
standard home laundering practices. Ap- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. line drying.
pearance of specimens is evaluated in a Care should be taken to prevent exposure 6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi-
standard viewing area by visually com- to skin and eyes. tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo-
paring the specimen smoothness after 4.3 All chemicals should be handled rated shelves (see 12.3).
laundering with grades represented by with care. 6.7 Scale with at least 5-kg or 10-lb ca-

232 AATCC TM124-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.1.1 Select washing conditions for 8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- procedure.
ommended. Set washing machine con- 8.2 Hand Washing.
trols to generate the selected cycle pa- 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
rameters. Table II. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist of water at this temperature to the wash
of all specimens, plus enough laundering tub.
ballast pieces to make a total load weight 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very Standard Reference Detergent to wash tub.
critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit 8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter-
the number of specimens per washer load gent.
to those from one sample. 8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and
8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow gently squeeze to distribute detergent so-
machine to fill to specified water level. lution. Do not twist or wring.
8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional Standard Reference Detergent to washing 8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
smoothness appearance replicas. machine as directed by washing machine detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist
manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent or wring.
is added directly to wash water, agitate 8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
pacity. briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agita- squeeze in detergent solution.
6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference tion before adding wash load. 8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash
Detergent (powder with brightener, see 8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
12.3). and ballast), distributing evenly around detergent solution. Do not twist or wring.
6.9 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type center agitator. Restart wash cycle. 8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white
3 (see Table V). 8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried towel. Empty and rinse wash tub.
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle 8.2.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
Appendix A. before the water begins to drain from the of clean water at the specified rinse tem-
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional final rinse cycle. Remove specimens perature (see Table II) to the wash tub.
Smoothness Appearance Replicas, set of soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble 8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from
six (see Fig. 1 and 12.3). (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al- towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to
6.12 Digital imaging system, for speci- low washing to proceed through the final distribute. Do not twist or wring.
men evaluation (optional). spin cycle. 8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min.
8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa- 8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in
7. Test Specimens
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or
taking care to minimize distortion. wring.
7.1 Cut three 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may 8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min
in) specimens, sides parallel to the length be in a folded or creased state after wash- squeeze in rinse water.
and width fabric directions. Where possi- ing. Such folds or creases should be re- 8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash
ble, each specimen should contain differ- moved by hand prior to drying. tub and gently squeeze to remove excess
ent groups of lengthwise and widthwise water. Do not twist or wring.
yarns. The specimens should be marked 8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot
to indicate the lengthwise direction. water from washed specimen(s). Do not
Table II—Standard Hand Washing
7.1.1 If fraying is expected in launder- wring or twist.
and Rinsing Temperatures
ing, see 12.4.
7.1.2 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Table III—Standard Drying Conditions
Temperature Guide, in AATCC TM133, (A) Tumble Dry
Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
Hot Pressing (see 12.3). Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) (Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85) (Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
8. Laundering Procedure 1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for (B) Line/Hang Dry
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir- (C) Drip Dry
8.1 Machine Washing. ing hand washing. (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.7)

Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1

Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM124-2018t 233
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2) cate all possible fabric surfaces. The rep-
licas are to be used as guides that repre-
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
sent various levels of fabric smoothness
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) or freedom from wrinkles. The observer
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 should mentally integrate degree and fre-
quency of wrinkles in the specimen to de-
termine a level of smoothness that can be
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters identified with the SA replica number
Type 1 Type 3 which most nearly represents that
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% smoothness appearance level (see Table
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun VI).
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 9.6 The smoothness appearance (SA)
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2 grade is that of the Smoothness Appear-
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged ance Replica that most nearly matches
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm the smoothness appearance of the test
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) specimen. Observers may assign a grade
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g midway between those whole-number
replicas that have no half-number replica
separating them (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA-
8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying 8.4 Conditioning.
4.5) if the appearance of the test speci-
procedure. 8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is men warrants it.
8.3 Drying. complete, condition test specimens as di-
8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- 9.6.1 If laundering creases are present
rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac-
ble III. on any specimens to be evaluated, take
tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the care in rating the specimens. Some laun-
(see 12.5). (Use conditions indicated in
washed load (test specimens and ballast) dering creases can be disregarded (com-
Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- monly called “reading out”). When the
conditioning time as indicated in Table 2
ture control to generate the selected cycle grade of a laundering-creased specimen
for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay
exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- differs from the other specimens by more
each test specimen flat, separately, on a
low the dryer to run until the load is fully than one grade, the test should be re-
screen or perforated shelf of a condition-
dry. Remove specimens immediately. peated with new specimens, taking all
ing/drying rack.
8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each precautions to avoid the occurrence of

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
specimen by two corners, with the fabric laundering creases.
9. Evaluation 9.7 A digital imaging system may be
length in the vertical direction. Allow
specimens to hang in still air at room 9.1 Three trained observers should eval- used in place of the visual replicas if it
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) uate each test specimen independently. has been established by the user that its
until dry. Do not blow air directly on 9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- accuracy is equivalent.
specimens as it may cause distortion. fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- 9.8 Average the nine observations
8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each dripping minate the viewing area with the over- made on each test fabric (three grades on
wet specimen by two corners, with the head fluorescent light only. Turn all other each of three test specimens). Report the
fabric length in the vertical direction. Al- lights in the room off. average to the nearest tenth of a grade.
low specimens to hang in still air at room 9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in This average is the unit of measure of this
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 test method.
until dry. Do not blow air directly on ± 1 in.) away from the board. It has been
specimens as it may cause distortion. found that normal variations in the height 10. Report
8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each of the observer above and below the arbi-
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- trary 1524-mm (60-in,) eye level have no 10.1 Report for each sample tested:
rated surface, removing wrinkles without significant effect on the grade given. 10.1.1 A description or identification
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- 9.4 Mount the test specimen on the of the sample.
mens to rest in still air at room tempera- viewing board with the fabric length in 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until the vertical direction. Place the most sim- AATCC TM124-2018t.
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- ilar Three-Dimensional Smoothness Ap- 10.1.3 Number of specimens tested.
mens as it may cause distortion. pearance Replicas on each side of the test 10.1.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow specimen to facilitate comparative evalu- or Type 3).
specimens to dry completely before ation. 10.1.5 Number of laundering cycles
washing again. 9.5 The Smoothness Appearance Rep- (default is 5 cycles).
8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci- licas were cast from woven fabrics. It is 10.1.6 Laundering conditions, includ-
mens are folded or creased after any dry- understood that the replicas do not dupli- ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
ing cycle except the last, rewet and at-
tempt to remove the creases by ironing
with a hand iron at a temperature suitable
for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.2), Table VI—Fabric Smoothness Grades by SA Replica Equivalents
prior to additional laundering cycles. Do
not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases Grade Description
by hand ironing after the final drying SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance.
cycle. SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica. Smooth, finished appearance.
8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica. Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance.
drying procedures for a total of 5 com- SA-3 Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica. Mussed, nonpressed appearance.
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of SA-2 Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica. Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.
cycles. SA-1 Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica. Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance.

234 AATCC TM124-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
perature, drying procedure and tumble compare test results, it is recommended will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha- that laboratory level be established be- situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
numeric designations may be used if they tween them prior to commencing test viewing board may be used, but replicas iden-
are clearly understood by all parties. For comparisons. Fabrics of known history tified as SA-4, SA-3 and SA-1 should always
be placed on the left side of the viewing board
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal and performance may be used for this as the board is viewed from the front. Replicas
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble purpose. identified as SA-5, SA-3.5 and SA-2 should
dry cycle. Differences between laboratory test re- always be placed on the viewing board to the
10.1.7 Number of observers. sults (on the same fabric, under the same right side as the board is viewed from the
10.18 Any modification of the test washing and drying conditions) equal to front.
method. or greater than a quarter replica unit are 12.7 The laundering temperatures and other
10.1.9 Average smoothness appearance statistically significant at P ≥ 0.99. A dif- parameters listed in this test method are stan-
(SA) grade. ference of this magnitude or greater sug- dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
gests a difference in laboratory levels and most lab procedures, they represent, but may
indicates the need for laboratory level not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
11. Precision and Bias tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
comparisons. among households; lab practices must be con-
11.1 Interlaboratory tests. Tests were 11.5 Bias. The true value of smooth- sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
conducted in 1980 using Machine Wash ness appearance in durable press fabrics laundering equipment or conditions other than
Normal, 41°C, and Tumble Dry, Normal/ after repeated home launderings can be those specifically listed in this test method are
Cotton Sturdy laundering settings. Eight defined only in terms of a test method. used, they must be described in detail and
laboratories evaluated four fabrics for There is no independent method for de- noted as a modification of the standard
smoothness appearance grades. The anal- termining the true value. As an estimate method. Alternate laundering conditions are
ysis of variance technique was judged not of this property, this test method has no outlined in AATCC LP1, and ISO 6330.
to be applicable to this data set because known bias. 12.8 Available from ISO, www.iso.org.
its distribution was not normal, and be-
cause of the limited and discontinuous 12. Notes Appendix A
scale of replica grades. The data were an- Evaluation Area
alyzed by calculating expected laboratory 12.1 For potential equipment information
test results from the distribution of indi- pertaining to this test method, please visit the A1 Viewing Board.
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at
vidual specimen grades. This analysis has www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos- A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
been deposited for reference in the RA61 sibility of listing equipment and materials sold high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
committee files. by its Corporate members, but AATCC does enough to accommodate scale and speci-
11.2 Observer repeatability. From the not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or men side by side
data it was determined that single observ- certify that any of the listed equipment or ma- A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
ers rated three specimens on the follow- terials meets the requirements in its test meth- on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3).
ing frequency: ods. Approximate CIELAB values for the
12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
3 specimens to same replica ..........0.55 tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard
2 specimens to same replica parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers ance of two units for each parameter is
and one different ........................0.40 or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research acceptable for the board color in this test
3 specimens different .....................0.05 Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549. method.
8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@ A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or
Only rarely did the separation in speci- aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described other means to secure specimen and scale
men grades exceed the next replica step. in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg such that center of specimen is 1524 mm
This is indicative of the high degree of re- load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993 (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be
peatability in observer rating of smooth- Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma- fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
ness appearance. chine is reported to meet the standard parame-
ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional A2 Lighting.
11.3 Laboratory test result distribu- A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
tion (within-laboratory repeatability). change results obtained with the alternate load
size may not be equal to those obtained with a fixture (see 12.6).
From the observed grade distribution, a standard load size. A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
distribution of laboratory test results was 12.3 Materials or drawings available from white lamps (without baffle or glass),
calculated for each replica level with half AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
grades included. Precision over the whole Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: (without baffle or glass),
SA replica range was improved. +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
11.4 Precision. From the frequency org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
12.4 If excessive fraying occurs in launder- A2.1.4 Eliminate all light sources ex-
distribution of laboratory test results, a cept the specified fluorescent lamps.
calculation was made of the critical dif- ing, specimen edges should be pinked, slashed
or stitched. If edges of laundered specimens A3 Walls.
ference, D, between two laboratory test
results. With laboratories at the same
appear distorted, clip as necessary before eval- A3.1 It has been the experience of
uating. many observers that light reflected from
level: 12.5 Available from ASTM International, the side walls near the viewing board can
Critical Confidence 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
Difference Level
9555; web site: www.astm.org.
ommended that the side walls be painted
D > 0.17 P ≥ 0.95 12.6 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view- matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
D ≥ 0.25 P ≥ 0.99 ing laundered specimens is specified in this or that blackout curtains be mounted on
method. It is recognized, however, that physi- both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
When two or more laboratories wish to cal space limitations in certain laboratories nate the reflective interference.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM124-2018t 235
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Replica Replica Side View

(93 ± 1 in.)
1524 ± 25 mm
Front View (60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for smoothness appearance evaluation.

236 AATCC TM124-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light

1. Purpose and Scope 5.1 Xenon-arc lamp fading apparatus specimen through the wringer with the
(see AATCC TM16.3, Option 3) multifiber stripes perpendicular to the
1.1 The purpose of this method is to de- 5.2 Balance with a weighing accuracy length of the wringer rolls (all stripes go
termine the effect of the combination of of 0.0001 g. through the wringer at the same time) or
perspiration solution and light exposure 5.3 pH meter accurate to 0.01. press between White AATCC Textile
on the colorfastness of a colored textile 5.4 Cardboard: 41 kg (91 lb) White Blotting Paper such that each test speci-
specimen. Therefore, only perspiration Bristol Index (no backing of exposed area men weighs 200 ± 5% its original weight
solutions will be used in this procedure. of colored test specimen). (e.g., if the original specimen weighed 10 g,
5.5 Acid perspiration solution (see 12.4). it should weigh between 19.5 and 20.5 g
5.6 Gray Scale for Color Change after soaking and wringing).
2. Principle
(AATCC EP1) (see 12.1). 8.4 Mount wet, unbacked specimen in
2.1 A colored test specimen is im- 5.7 White AATCC Textile Blotting exposure frame or mount specimen on
mersed in a perspiration test solution for Paper (see 12.1). white cardboard stock that has been
a specified period of time and immedi- 5.8 Wringer (see 12.5). wrapped with a thin plastic film (see 12.6)
ately exposed to light in a fading appara- to prevent wetting of the backing.
tus for a specified period of time. 8.5 Expose specimens in fading appa-
2.1.1 Fading apparatus will be the xe- 6. Preparation of Reagent ratus in accordance with AATCC
non-arc lamp test apparatus as described TM16.3, Option 3 for 20 AFUs.
6.1 Acid Perspiration Solution.
in AATCC TM16.3, Test Method for Col- 8.6 Remove the specimens.
6.1.1 Prepare the acid perspiration so-
orfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc. lution by filling a 1 L volumetric flask
half full of distilled water. Add the fol- 9. Evaluation
lowing chemicals and mix to be sure that
3. Terminology all chemicals are thoroughly dissolved: 9.1 Evaluation of color change.
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 10 ± 0.01 g sodium chloride (NaCl) 9.2 Evaluate the change in color in the
a material to change in any of its color 1 ± 0.01 g lactic acid, USP 85% test specimen by comparison with the
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 1 ± 0.01 g disodium hydrogen phos- Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a phate, anhydrous (Na2HPO4) (see 12.2) EP1), or using AATCC EP7, Instrumen-
result of the exposure of the material to 0.25 ± 0.001 g R-histidine monohydro- tal Assessment of the Change in Color of
any environment that might be encoun- chloride (C6H9N3O2⋅HCl⋅H2O) a Test Specimen, and record the numeri-
tered during the processing, testing, stor- Fill the volumetric flask with distilled cal rating that corresponds to the appro-
age or use of the material. water to the 1 L mark. priate one on the Gray Scale (see 12.1).
3.2 lightfastness, n.—the property of a 6.1.2 Test the pH of the solution with a 9.3 For improved precision and accu-
material, usually an assigned number, de- pH meter. If it is not 4.3 ± 0.2 discard it racy more than one rater should rate the
picting a ranked change in its color char- and prepare a new one, making sure all in- specimens.
acteristics as a result of exposure of the gredients are weighed accurately. The use
material to sunlight or an artificial light of pH test paper is not recommended for
this purpose because of its lack of accu- 10. Report
source.
3.3 perspiration, n.—a saline fluid se- racy. 10.1 Report the color change grade.
creted by the sweat glands (in this test an 6.1.3 Do not use perspiration solution 10.2 Report the Fading apparatus used.
artificial perspiration solution will be used). that is more than three days old (see 12.3). 10.3 Report the reagent used.

7. Test Specimens 11. Precision and Bias

4. Safety Precautions
7.1 Cut a specimen of colored fabric 11.1 Precision. In 2002 a single labora-
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.1 × 7.0 cm (2.0 × 2.75 in.).
for information purposes only. The pre- tory study was performed using a single
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- operator. This study was intended to be a
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 8. Procedure temporary table of variances to give some
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use indication of test variability. A complete

safe and proper techniques in handling 8.1 Weigh the specimen to ± 0.01g. interlaboratory study is to be conducted
materials in this test method. Manufac- 8.2 Place each test specimen (as pre- in the near future for the purposes of pre-
turers MUST be consulted for specific pared in 7.1) in a 9 cm diameter, 2 cm cision and bias. Table values do not re-
details such as material safety data sheets deep petri dish. Add freshly prepared per- flect different types of material tested to
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- spiration solution to a depth of 1.5 cm in this standard. Between-Laboratory vari-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules the petri dish. Soak the test specimen in ability is not indicated either. Special care
must also be consulted and followed. the solution for 30 ± 2 min with occa- and consideration of the variances re-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should sional agitation and squeezing to ensure ported must be used when examining test
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all complete wetting. For fabrics hard to wet variability problems.
laboratory areas. out, alternately wet the specimen and 11.1.1 Samples tested consisted of four
pass through a laboratory wringer until it fabrics, with three replicates each. Light-
is completely penetrated by the solution. fastness exposure conditions were those
5. Apparatus, Materials and Test Solutions 8.3 After 30 ± 2 min, pass each test found in AATCC TM16-1998, Option E.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM125-2013e2(2020) 237
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Each sample was evaluated instrumen- 12. Notes 12.4 There may be instances where alkaline
tally three times and averages were calcu- perspiration may be used in this test method.
lated. The data is found in Table I. 12.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box In these instances the alkaline test solution
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: should be run as described in AATCC TM15,
11.1.2 Within-laboratory standard er- Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration.
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
rors and Sample Variance are shown in [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. For convenient reference the composition of
Table II. Data is on file at the AATCC the alkaline solution is as follows: Alkaline
12.2 Also sold as sodium phosphate, diba-
Technical Center. Solution - 10 g sodium chloride; 4 g ammo-
sic, anhydrous.
11.2 Bias. The colorfastness to natural nium carbonate, USP; 1 g disodium hydrogen
12.3 AATCC Committee RR52, Colorfast- phosphate, anhydrous (Na2HPO4); 0.25 g -
and artificial light can be defined only in ness to Perspiration, established that fungi be-
terms of a test method. There is no inde- histidine monohydrochloride. Make up to 1 L
gin to grow in the acid perspiration solution with distilled water. This solution should give
pendent method for determining the true and that the pH rises after three days of stor-
value. As a means of estimating this a pH of 8.0 (see 12.2).
age under ambient room temperatures even
property, the method has no known bias. when kept in a stoppered solution bottle. 12.5 No specific wringer model is sug-
gested. The purpose of the wringer is to
achieve the total wet pick up after soaking in
the solution. In lieu of the wringer, other suit-
Table I—ΔE able methods, like pressing between White
AATCC Textile Blotting Paper, may also be
Brown #1 Brown #2 Green Blue used.
Specimen 1 1.260 4.37 6.250 7.830 12.6 The purpose of the film used to wrap
Specimen 2 0.950 4.89 8.180 6.420 the card is to prevent the card from becoming
Specimen 3 1.170 5.78 5.230 4.870 wet. It shall be a transparent film such as food
Average 1.127 5.013 6.553 6.373 grade wrapping film.

Table II—Within-Laboratory Standard Errors and Sample Variance 13. History

Sample Standard Standard Sample 95%
13.1 Reaffirmed 2020.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Identification Dev. Error Variance Confidence
Brown #1 0.159 0.092 0.025 0.396 13.2 Revised 2013, 2004 (with title
change), 1982. Reaffirmed 1991, 1989, 1978,
Brown #2 0.713 0.412 0.508 1.771
1974, 1971. Editorially revised 2019, 2014,
Green 1.498 0.865 2.245 3.722 2010, 2005, 1996, 1993, 1990. Editorially re-
Blue 1.481 0.855 2.192 3.678 vised and reaffirmed 2009, 1986.
*Note: Because the interlaboratory test included less than five laboratories, estimates of standard error and sample 13.3 Developed in 1967 by AATCC Com-
variance may be either underestimated or overestimated to a considerable extent and should be used with special mittee RA23; jurisdiction transferred in 1996
caution. The values should be viewed as minimal data with regards to precision. Confidence intervals are not well to AATCC Committee RA50. Partially equiv-
established. alent to ISO 105-B07.

238 AATCC TM125-2013e2(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM127-2017(2018)e

Test Method for Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure

Developed in 1968 by AATCC Commit- materials in this test method. Manufac- appear within approximately 3 mm of the
tee RA63; reaffirmed 1971, 1974, 1977, turers MUST be consulted for specific specimen clamping ring, record the hy-
1980, 1989, 2003, 2013, 2018; editori- details, such as material safety data sheets drostatic pressure at the moment water
ally revised 1982, 1986, 2006, 2016, and other manufacturer’s recommenda- droplets penetrate the fabric in three dif-
2019; editorially revised and reaffirmed tions. All OSHA standards and rules ferent places (see 11.7).
1985, 2008; revised 1995, 1998, 2014, must also be consulted and followed.
2017. Related to ISO 811. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 8. Calculation
laboratory areas. 8.1 Calculate the average hydrostatic
4.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- pressure for each sample.
1. Purpose and Scope dations should be followed when operat-
1.1 This test method measures the re- ing laboratory testing equipment.
sistance of a fabric to the penetration of 9. Report
water under hydrostatic pressure. It is ap-
plicable to all types of fabrics, including
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.1) 9.1 Results for each specimen and the
those treated with a water resistant or wa- average for each sample.
5.1 Hydrostatic Tester. 9.2 The material and the side tested.
ter repellent finish.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
5.1.1 For Option 1, Hydrostatic Pres- 9.3 Water temperature and type.
1.2 Water resistance depends on the re- sure Tester (see 11.2).
pellency of the fibers and yarns, as well 9.4 Gradient (rate of increasing water
5.1.2 For Option 2, Hydrostatic Head pressure).
as the fabric construction. Tester (see 11.3).
1.3 The results obtained by this method 9.5 Tester option used.
5.2 Water, distilled or de-ionized.
may not be the same as the results ob- 9.6 Any modification to the method.
tained by the AATCC methods for resis-
tance to rain or water spray. 6. Test Specimens
10. Precision and Bias
1.4 This test method is performed
without a restraint. If a restraint is 6.1 A minimum of three fabric speci-
10.1 Precision. The test results are
required, use AATCC TM208, Test mens should be taken diagonally across
tester dependent. Precision statements for
Method for Water Resistance: Hydro- the width of the fabric to be representa-
each tester are given in 10.2 and 10.3.
static Pressure Using a Restraint. tive of the material. Cut specimens at
10.2 Suter Hydrostatic Pressure Tester
least 200 × 200 mm to allow proper
(Option 1).
clamping.
10.2.1 In 1993, a limited interlabora-
2. Principle 6.2 Handle the specimens as little as
tory study was completed, which in-
possible and avoid folding or contaminat-
2.1 One surface of the test specimen is cluded six laboratories, two operators in
ing the area to be tested.
subjected to a hydrostatic pressure, in- each, running determinations on three
6.3 Condition the test specimens at 21
creasing at a constant rate, until three specimens of two fabrics. No prior as-
± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) air at 65 ± 5% RH for at
points of leakage appear on its other sur- sessment was made of the relative level
least 4 h before testing.
face. The water may be applied from of the participating laboratories on per-
6.4 The surface of the fabric to be ex- formance of the test method.
above or below the test specimen. posed to water must be specified because
2.2 This test is performed without a 10.2.2 The two fabrics were at differ-
different results may be obtained on the
restraint. ent levels (Fabric 1 approximately 810
face and the back. Identify that surface on
mm and Fabric 2 approximately 340
a corner of each specimen.
mm), and residual variances of the two
3. Terminology fabrics were found to be different. Ac-
7. Procedure cordingly, precision is reported sepa-
3.1 hydrostatic pressure, n.—the rately for each fabric.
force distributed over an area exerted by 7.1 Verify the water in contact with the 10.2.3 Users of the method are advised
water. test specimen is regulated at 21 ± 2°C (70 of the limited nature of this study and ad-
3.2 water resistance, n.—of fabric, ± 4°F) (see 11.4). vised to apply these findings with due
the characteristic to resist wetting and 7.2 Dry the clamping surface. caution.
penetration by water. 7.3 Clamp the specimen with the surface 10.2.4 Analysis of the data sets for
3.3 water repellency, n.—in textiles, to be tested facing the water (see 11.5). each fabric yielded components of vari-
the characteristic of fiber, yarn, or fabric 7.4 Operation. ance and critical differences as displayed
to resist wetting. 7.4.1 Option 1—Hydrostatic Pressure in Tables I, II and III. Differences be-
Tester. Turn on the motor, press the lever tween two averages of (N) determina-
4. Safety Precautions to raise the overflow device at the rate of tions, for the appropriate precision pa-
10 mm/s, and close the air vent as soon as rameter, should reach or exceed the table
NOTE: These safety precautions are water flows from it. value to be statistically significant at the
for information purposes only. The pre- 7.4.2 Option 2—Hydrostatic Head 95% confidence level.
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Tester. Select the gradient of 60 mbar/ 10.3 Hydrostatic Head Tester (Option 2).
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- min (1 mbar/s), press the start button (see 10.3.1 In a single-laboratory study, six
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 11.6). different laboratory technicians ran determi-
safe and proper techniques in handling 7.5 Disregarding water droplets that nations on three specimens of five fabrics.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM127-2017(2018)e 239
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.3.2 The five fabrics were at differ- Table I—Components of Variance for Two Fabrics (Option 1 Tester)
ent levels of approximately: A=103,
B=33, C=37, D=12, and E=77. Data ob- Component Variance Fabric 1 Variance Fabric 2
tained in this study is recorded in milli- Laboratory 13.450 7.323
bars (SI standard). The residual variance Operator 3.127 2.145
of the five fabrics were found to be dif- Specimen 30.253 5.382
ferent, therefore, precision is reported
separately for each.
10.3.3 Analysis of the data sets for
each fabric yielded critical differences as
shown in Tables IV, V, VI, VII and VIII. Table II—Fabric 1—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 1 Tester)
Differences between two averages of (N) Det in Avg
determinations, for the appropriate preci- (N) Single Operator Within Laboratory Between Laboratory
sion parameter, should reach or exceed
the table value to be statistically signifi- 1 15.25 16.02 18.97
cant at the 95% confidence level. 2 10.78 11.84 15.61
10.3.4 Between laboratory precision 3 8.80 10.08 14.31
has not been established for this option. 4 7.62 9.06 13.62
Until such precision information is avail- 5 6.82 8.04 13.19
able, users of this method should use
standard statistical techniques in making
any comparison of test results for be-
tween laboratory averages. Table III—Fabric 2—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 1 Tester)
10.4 Bias.
10.4.1 Water resistance of fabrics can Det in Avg
only be defined in terms of a test method. (N) Single Operator Within Laboratory Between Laboratory
There is no independent, referee method 1 6.43 7.61 10.68
for determining the true value. This test 2 4.55 6.10 9.67
method has no known bias.
3 3.71 5.50 9.30
4 3.22 5.18 9.12
11. Notes 5 2.88 4.98 9.00
11.1 For potential equipment information
pertaining to this test method, please visit
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility Table IV—Material A—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 2 Tester)
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Corporate members, but AATCC does not qual-
ify, or in any way approve, endorse or certify Det in Avg
that any of the listed equipment or materials (N) Single Operator Within Laboratory
meets the requirements in its test methods. 1 72.49 72.49

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
11.2 Hydrostatic Pressure Tester (Suter). 2 51.26 51.26
11.2.1 The apparatus consists essentially of 3 41.85 41.85
an inverted conical well equipped with a coax-
ial ring clamp to fasten the cloth specimen un- 4 36.25 36.25
der the well bottom. The apparatus introduces 5 32.42 32.42
water from above the specimen over an area
114 mm in diameter and at a rate of 10.0 ± 0.5
mm of hydrostatic head per second. A mirror
is affixed below the specimen to enable the
operator to ascertain penetration of the speci-
Table V—Material B—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 2 Tester)
men by drops of water. A valve is provided for
venting the air in the well. Det in Avg
11.2.2 Hydrostatic testing apparatus of the (N) Single Operator Within Laboratory
type described is no longer available for sale. 1 10.08 12.85
11.3 Hydrostatic Head Tester. 2 7.13 9.09
11.3.1 The apparatus applies hydrostatic
3 5.82 7.42
pressure at 60 mbar/min (selectable) to the
bottom side of the fabric. A reservoir with a 4 5.04 6.43
circular test area of 100 ± 5 cm2 (15.5 ± 0.8 5 4.51 5.75
in.2) contains distilled or deionized water which
is applied to the fabric surface. The fabric spec-
imen is secured with a clamp.
11.4 Some laboratories use water at ambi-
ent temperature. If water is other than 21 ± Table VI—Material C—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 2 Tester)
2°C (70 ± 4°F), so state.
11.5 Lateral water leakage can be mini- Det in Avg Single
mized by sealing the fabric with paraffin at the (N) Operator Within Laboratory
clamping area. 1 16.13 16.13
11.6 1 mbar = 10.2 mm H2O. 2 11.40 11.40
11.7 An automated droplet detection sys-
tem may be used in place of visual observation 3 9.31 9.31
of water droplets if it is established that its ac- 4 8.06 8.06
curacy is equivalent to visual observation. 5 7.21 7.21

240 AATCC TM127-2017(2018)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table VII—Material D—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 2 Tester)

Det in Avg
(N) Single Operator Within Laboratory
1 2.88 3.50
2 2.04 2.47
3 1.66 2.02
4 1.44 1.75
5 1.29 1.57

Table VIII—Material E—Critical Differences—95% Confidence (Option 2 Tester)

Det in
Avg
(N) Single Operator Within Laboratory
1 15.04 16.55
2 10.63 11.70
3 8.68 9.55
4 7.52 8.27
5 6.72 7.40

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM127-2017(2018)e 241
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM128-2017e2

Test Method for Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance

1. Purpose and Scope mum of 8 h at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65
± 5% RH.
1.1 This test method is for determining
the appearance of textile fabrics after in-
7. Procedure
duced wrinkling. It is applicable to fab-
rics made from any fiber or combination 7.1 Perform all further steps at 21 ±
of fibers. 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH.
1.2 The method can be used to evaluate 7.2 Raise top flange of wrinkle tester
fabrics at their original, unwashed state or and hold in top position with locking pin.
after home laundering. 7.3 Wrap one long edge (28 cm) (11
in.) of the specimen around the top flange
2. Principle of the AATCC Wrinkle Tester with the
face side of the specimen on the outside
2.1 A test specimen is wrinkled under and clamp it in position using the steel
standard atmospheric conditions in a spring and clamp provided. Arrange the
standard wrinkling device under a prede- ends of the specimen so that they are op-
termined load for a prescribed period of posite the opening in the spring clamp.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
time. The specimen is then reconditioned 7.4 Wrap the opposite long edge of the
in the standard atmosphere for textile specimen around the bottom flange and
testing and evaluated for appearance by clamp as described above.
comparison with 3-dimensional reference 7.5 Adjust the specimen by pulling on
standards. its bottom edge, so that it lies smooth
Fig. 1—AATCC Wrinkle Tester.
3. Terminology
without sagging between the top and the
bottom flanges.
3.1 smoothness appearance, n.—in 7.6 Withdraw the locking pin and
fabrics, the visual impression of planarity 6. Test Specimens lower the top flange gently with one hand
of a specimen quantified by comparison until it comes to rest.
6.1 Take three test specimens from the 7.7 Immediately place a total of 3500
with a set of reference standards.
fabric to be tested by cutting each 15 × 28 grams weight on the top flange and
3.2 wrinkle recovery, n.—that prop- cm (6 × 11 in.) with the long dimension
erty of a fabric which enables it to re- record the exact time.
running in the direction of the warp of 7.8 After 20 min, remove the weights,
cover from folding deformations. woven fabric or the wale of knit fabrics remove the springs and clamps, raise the
4. Safety Precautions
(see 11.4). Identify each specimen along top flange and gently remove the speci-
one edge of the face side. men from the tester so as not to distort
NOTE: These safety precautions are 6.2 Condition specimens for a mini- any induced wrinkles (see 11.5).
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas.

5. Apparatus and Materials

5.1 AATCC Wrinkle Tester (see Fig. 1,
and 11.1 and 11.2).
5.2 AATCC 3-Dimensional Wrinkle
Recovery Replicas (see Fig. 2 and 11.3).
5.3 Standard conditions room at 21 ±
2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH.
5.4 Clothes hangers with clips.
5.5 A lighting and evaluation area in a
darkened room using overhead lighting
arrangement shown in Fig. 3.
5.6 Digital Imaging System (see 11.8). Fig. 2—AATCC Wrinkle Recovery Replicas.

242 AATCC TM128-2017e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
only in terms of a test method. There is
no independent method for determining
the true value. As a means of estimating
this property, the method has no known
bias.

11. Notes
11.1 The AATCC Wrinkle Tester is pro-
vided for introducing wrinkles in the test
specimen under controlled conditions. This
apparatus is based on a development of
ENKA/AKU Research. The apparatus is ob-
tainable from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.
919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
11.2 All three weights (500, 1000 and 2000
Fig. 3—Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens. g) provided with this tester are used in the test.
The top flange assembly weighs 500 g which
Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Star fluorescent lamps (without baffle or is 200 g heavier than that of the AKU Wrinkle
glass). (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or glass). (c) One general type swatch mount, spring Tester. The AKU Wrinkle Tester may be used
loaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga.). (d) One ¼ in. plywood mounting board painted to match for this test by adding 200 g to the top flange.
No. 2 gray chip on Gray Scale for Staining (see 11.9). 11.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
7.9 With a minimum of handling, place WR-5 Replica and represents the smooth- 11.4 Cut specimens from a wrinkle-free
the shorter edge (15 cm) (6 in.) under the est appearance and best retention of origi- area of the fabrics. If any wrinkles are un-
clips on the clothes hanger and allow the nal appearance, while a No. 1 rating is avoidably present in the test specimens, press

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
specimen to hang vertically in the long equivalent to the WR-1 Replica and rep- each lightly with a steam iron before condi-
direction. resents the poorest appearance and poor- tioning.
7.10 After 24 h in the standard atmo- est retention of original appearance (see 11.5 If the test has been run properly, diag-
sphere gently remove the hanger with the Table I). onal wrinkles should run through the center
specimen to the evaluation site (see 11.6). 8.5 Similarly, the observer indepen- portion of the specimen.
dently rates each of the other two test 11.6 Evaluation area should also be main-
specimens. The other two observers pro- tained at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH.
8. Evaluation 11.7 Since previous tests have proven that
ceed in the same manner assigning rat- specimens do change in appearance during the
8.1 Three trained observers should rate ings independently. first few hours, it is important that accurate
each test specimen independently (see 8.6 A digital imaging system may be times be observed and that a minimum time
11.7). used (see 11.8). elapses while the three observers are evaluat-
8.2 Mount the test specimen on the ing the samples. Because of these changing
viewing board as illustrated in Fig. 3, 9. Calculating and Reporting Results conditions, the duration of recovery before
with the warp in vertical direction. Place rating in this method has been standardized at
three-dimensional plastic replicas on 9.1 Average the nine observations 24 h.
each side of the test specimen to facilitate made on each test fabric (three judgments 11.8 A digital imaging system may be used
comparative rating. on each of three specimens). in place of the visual replicas if it has been
9.2 Report the average to the nearest established by the user that its accuracy is
8.2.1 The overhead fluorescent light equivalent.
should be the only light source for the tenth of a rating.
11.9 Approximate CIELAB values for the
viewing board, and all other lights in the Step 2 chip on the Gray Scale for Staining are
room should be turned off. 10. Precision and Bias L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A tolerance of two
8.2.2 It has been the experience of units for each parameter is acceptable for the
many observers that light reflected from 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test board color in this test method.
the side walls near the viewing board can method has not been established. Until a
interfere with the rating results. It is rec- precision statement is generated for this 12. History
ommended that the side walls be painted test method, use standard statistical tech-
black or that blackout curtains be mounted niques in making any comparisons of test 12.1 Editorially revised 2022 to add History
on either side of the viewing board to results for either within-laboratory or section.
between-laboratory averages. 12.2 Editorially revised 2019; revised 2017;
eliminate the reflective interference. editorially revised 2016; reaffirmed 2013; edi-
10.2 Bias. The wrinkle recovery of fab-
8.3 The observer is to stand directly in torially revised 2010; reaffirmed and editori-
rics (appearance method), can be defined
front of the specimen 4 ft away from the ally revised 2009, 2004; reaffirmed 1999;
board. It has been found that normal vari- editorially revised 1995; reaffirmed and edito-
ations in the height of the observer above rially revised 1994; editorially revised 1995
and below the arbitrary 5-ft eye level Table I—Fabric Smoothness Ratings 1992,1990; reaffirmed 1989; editorially re-
have no significant effect on the rating vised 1988; reaffirmed and editorially revised
5—an appearance equivalent to the WR-5 Replica 1985; reaffirmed 1980, 1977; revised 1974,
given. 4—an appearance equivalent to the WR-4 Replica 1970; reaffirmed and editorially revised 1969.
8.4 Assign the number of the replica 3—an appearance equivalent to the WR-3 Replica 12.3 1968 Developed by AATCC Commit-
which most nearly matches the appear- 2—an appearance equivalent to the WR-2 Replica tee RR6; 1995 Jurisdiction transferred to
ance of the test specimens. 1—an appearance equivalent to or worse than the AATCC Committee RA61. Technically equiv-
8.4.1 A No. 5 rating is equivalent to the WR-1 Replica alent to ISO 9867.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM128-2017e2 243
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM129-2011(2016)e

Test Method for Colorfastness to Ozone

in the Atmosphere under High Humidities
Developed in 1962 by AATCC Commit- must also be consulted and followed. ± 2.5% RH and a temperature of 40 ± 1°C
tee RA33; editorially revised 1973, 4.1 Good laboratory practices should (104 ± 2°F). Ozone concentrations must
1974, 1981, 1989, 1997, 2008, 2019; be followed. Wear safety glasses in all range from 10-35 pphm which should
revised 1972, 1975, 1985, 2005, 2011; laboratory areas. produce one cycle of fading in 3-28 h of
reaffirmed 1990, 2001, 2016; editorial- 4.2 Ozone is a sensory irritant. The test test.
ly revised and reaffirmed 1996, 2010. cabinet should be ventilated to the out- 7.2 Examine the control specimen peri-
Partly equivalent to ISO 105-G03. side atmosphere in accordance with the odically until the resulting color corre-
manufacturer’s instructions. sponds to that of the standard of fading
4.3 Exposure to chemicals used in this (see 11.6 and 11.7) when compared in
procedure must be controlled at or below daylight ranging from average to slightly
1. Purpose and Scope levels set by governmental authorities bluish north sky light, or equivalent artifi-
1.1 This test method is used for deter- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health cial light. This constitutes one cycle (see
mining the resistance of the color of tex- Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 11.9).
tiles to the action of ozone in the atmo- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR 7.3 Remove those specimens which
sphere at elevated temperatures with 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov exhibit a color change at the end of one
relative humidities above 85%. for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- cycle. One cycle will generally produce a
can Conference of Governmental Indus- measurable color change in specimens
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold which are ozone sensitive.
2. Principle Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time 7.4 Suspend a fresh control specimen
2.1 A test specimen and a swatch of weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short and continue exposure of any remaining
control sample are simultaneously ex- term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and specimens for a second cycle.
posed to ozone in an atmosphere which is ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 7.5 Run additional similar cycles as
maintained at 87.5 ± 2.5% RH and a tem- as a general guide for air contaminant ex- necessary.
perature of 40 ± 1°C (104 ± 2°F) until the posure which should be met (see 11.2).
control sample shows a color change cor- 8. Evaluation
responding to that of a standard of fading. 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.3)
The cycles are repeated until the speci- 8.1 At the end of each cycle immedi-
5.1 Ozone Chamber for elevated tem- ately compare those specimens which are
men shows a definite color change or for peratures and relative humidities above
a prescribed number of cycles. removed from the exposure chamber with
85% (see 11.4). the preserved original from which they
2.2 On certain fibers, dye fading does
5.2 Control Sample No. 129 for high were drawn.
not readily take place at humidities below
humidities (see 11.5, 11.7 and 11.8). 8.2 Rate the effect on color of test
85%. Testing at high humidities is re-
5.3 Standard of Fading No. 129 for specimens after any specified number of
quired to produce color change that pre-
high humidities (see 11.6, 11.7 and 11.8). cycles by reference to the Gray Scale for
dicts service fading under warm, humid
5.4 Gray Scale for Color Change Color Change (AATCC EP1) or using
conditions (see 11.1).
(AATCC EP1) (see 11.7). AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment
of the Change in Color of a Test Speci-
3. Terminology 6. Test Specimens men, and record the numerical rating that
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of corresponds to the appropriate one on the

6.1 Cut each test specimen at least 100
a material to change in any of its color Gray Scale. Report the number of cycles
× 60 mm (4.25 × 2.375 in.). For subse-
characteristics, to transfer of its color- run (see 11.7, 11.10 and 11.11).
quent color comparison, the unexposed
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a sample should be kept in an airtight con-
result of the exposure of the material to tainer away from light to avoid further 9. Report
any environment that might be encoun- shade change.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 6.2 When a laundered or drycleaned 9.1 Report the numerical rating for the
age or use of the material. specimen is used, base the effects of change in color of the test specimen, the
ozone exposure on comparisons with the number of cycles run and the temperature
color of the laundered or drycleaned and relative humidity at which the test
4. Safety Precautions
swatch. In the preparation of specimens was performed.
NOTE: These safety precautions are for testing after laundering or dryclean-
for information purposes only. The pre- ing, use AATCC TM61, Test Method for 10. Precision and Bias
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Colorfastness to Laundering: Acceler-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ated, and AATCC TM132, Test Method 10.1 Precision.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use for Colorfastness to Drycleaning. 10.1.1 Interlaboratory Study. Four lab-
safe and proper techniques in handling oratories participated in this study.
materials in this test method. Manufac- 7. Procedure Twenty-one carpet materials were evalu-
turers MUST be consulted for specific ated for colorfastness under conditions of
details such as material safety data sheets 7.1 Suspend test and control specimens the test method. Four specimens were as-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- (see 11.5 and 11.7) in the exposure cham- signed to each laboratory for each mate-
tions. All OHSA standards and rules ber (see 11.4) which is maintained at 87.5 rial. Three specimens were exposed in an

244 AATCC TM129-2011(2016)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ozone-humidity chamber, and one was dence level. Values are Critical Differ- “Selected Methods of the Measurement of
retained in the original condition to eval- ences. This study used three specimens Air Pollutants,” Public Health Service Publi-
uate color retention using EP1. The ILS (noted in bold). Other specimen values cation No. 999-AP-11, May 1965. Office of
exposure plan contained these factors: show the effect of the number of speci- Technical Information and Publication
(OTIP), Springfield VA, PB167-677.
laboratories 4, materials 21, specimens 3, mens in an average on the magnitude of a 11.5 The control sample for tests made at
with 1 determination per specimen. Each critical difference. elevated temperatures and relative humidities
laboratory assigned grades to specimens 10.2 Bias. above 85% is a tertiary shade, avocado, pre-
using EP1. 10.2.1 This test method has no known pared by dyeing a Y-cross-section nylon 6 un-
10.1.2 Components of Variance. Vari- bias. There is no known referee test autoclaved knitted sleeve with the following
ance components were derived for carpet method, nor any known standard materi- formula: 0.15% C.I. Disperse Red 4, 0.63%
materials (VF), laboratories (VL), inter- als by which test method bias may be es- C.I. Disperse Yellow 3 and 0.25% C.I. Disperse
action (VFL), and residual (V). Compo- Blue 3 based on the weight of the fabric.
tablished.
11.6 The standard of fading for tests made
nents VL and V were needed to compute at elevated temperatures and relative humidi-
precision estimates for tests done on a ties above 85% is a dyeing of the same Y-
single carpet material, as shown in Table 11. Notes cross-section nylon 6 unautoclaved knitted
I and using equations: sleeve with the following formula: 0.557%
11.1 At high humidities, the fading of dyes
C.I. Acid Yellow 79, 0.081% C.I. Acid Red
2.83 ( V/3 ) by ozone on small fibers (such as nylon) is al-
95 CD Within Lab = ------------------------ tered greatly by relatively small variations in 361 and 0.102% C.I. Acid Blue 277.
0.5 11.7 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
relative humidity. Therefore, to achieve repro-
and ducibility and good interlaboratory correlation 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
in test results, temperature and relative humid- +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
2.83 ( V/3 + VL ) [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
95 CD Between Lab = --------------------------------------- ity must be closely controlled.
0.5 11.8 CAUTION: Both the control sample
11.2 Available from Publications Office, and the standard of fading must be kept in air-
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper tight containers to prevent color change en-
stated in spreadsheet notation. These Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
equations give expected critical differ- countered in normal atmospheres. The control
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. fabric is also sensitive to other atmospheric
ences not to be exceeded (1) in two test 11.3 For potential equipment information contaminants such as oxides of nitrogen. Its
results of a single carpet materials within pertaining to this test method, please visit fading rate will vary considerably at different
one laboratory, or (2) in single test results the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. humidities and temperatures and its use in nat-
of two laboratories from a single carpet aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility ural or end-use testing as a measure of expo-
material, when either difference is not of listing equipment and materials sold by its sure to ozone is not recommended. The color
significant. Corporate members, but AATCC does not change produced on the control will reflect the
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- combined effects of the atmospheric contami-
10.1.3 Precision Estimates. Table II tify that any of the listed equipment or
values are computed at the 95% confi- nants present, and temperature, humidity vari-
materials meets the requirements in its test ations and not just the effects of exposure to
methods. ozone.
11.4 The ozone exposure chamber for ele- 11.9 An alternative method of determining
vated temperatures and relative humidities one cycle of fade is to terminate the exposure
Table I—Components of Variance above 85% can be of variable construction as cycle when the Control Sleeve 129 exhibits a
long as it meets the conditions of 87.5 ± 2.5% color change of 22.5 ± 1.4 CIELAB units for
COV Unit Var RH, 40 ± 1°C (104 ± 2°F) temperature and Lot No. 10 (see 11.10).
contains an ozone concentration in the range 11.10 Make colorimetric or spectrophoto-
VL 0.038 of 10-35 pphm. metric measurement of Control Sleeve 129
V 0.026 11.4.1 Blueprints of a suitable apparatus are with the specular component included. Calcu-
available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, late colorimetric data using the CIE 1964 10°
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. observer data for Illuminant D65. The color
Table II—Critical Differences 919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: difference shall be expressed in CIELAB
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. units.
Specimens 95 CD 95 CD Between 11.4.2 For information regarding the mea- 11.11 An automated electronic grading sys-
in Average Within Lab Lab surement of ozone concentration, see the tem may be used as long as the system has
following references: been demonstrated to provide results that are
1 0.46 0.70
Schulze, Fernand, “Versatile Combination equal to and provide equal or better repeatabil-
3 0.26 0.61 Ozone and Sulfur Dioxide Analyzer,” Analyti- ity and reproducibility than an experienced
5 0.20 0.40 cal Chemistry, Vol. 38, May 1966, pp748-752. grader performing visual evaluation.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM129-2011(2016)e 245
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM130-2018t

Test Method for Soil Release: Oily Stain Release

Developed in 1969 by AATCC Commit- 4. Terminology same for these methods, oily stains may
tee RA56; reaffirmed 1970, 1974, 1977; interfere with evaluation of other proper-
editorially revised 1978, 1983, 1986, 4.1 soil, n.—dirt, oil or other sub- ties.
1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2011, 2012, stances not normally intended to be
2016; revised 1981, 1990, 1995, 2010, present on a substrate such as a textile
2018 (twice); editorially revised and re- material. 7. Apparatus and Materials (see 15.3)
affirmed 2000, 2015. 4.2 soil release, n.—the degree to
which a soiled substrate approaches its 7.1 Conditioning facilities and racks
original, unsoiled appearance as a result with pull-out, perforated shelves for lay-
of a care procedure. ing specimens flat (see 15.1).
Foreword
4.3 stain, n.—a local deposit of soil or 7.2 AATCC Blotting Paper (see 15.1).
This test method measures the ability discoloration on a substrate that exhibits 7.3 Corn oil (see 15.4).
of fabrics to release an oily soil during some degree of resistance to removal, as 7.4 Glassine paper (see 15.1).
home laundering. Standard laundering by laundering or drycleaning. 7.5 Timer.
procedures represent, but may not exactly 7.6 Cylindrical weight, 6.4 cm (2.5 in.)
replicate, current consumer practices, diam., 2.268 ± 0.045 kg (5.0 ± 0.1 lb)
5. Safety Precautions
which vary by sample, over time and (stainless steel is preferable, see 15.1).
among households. Alternate stains or NOTE: These safety precautions are Multiple weights are recommended to ef-
care procedures may be addressed by for information purposes only. The pre- ficiently process multiple samples.
other methods or modifications of this cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 7.7 Amber bottle (see 15.5) with medi-
method. dures and are not intended to be all inclu- cine dropper, 76 mm glass, 2-mL capac-
In this method, corn oil is forced into sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ity, capable of dispensing
the fabric before laundering. To evaluate safe and proper techniques in handling 20 drops/mL.
a fabric’s ability to resist or repel oily materials in this test method. Manufac-
stains, use AATCC TM118, Oil Repel- 7.8 Automatic washing machine (see
turers MUST be consulted for specific Table I, 15.6).
lency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test. details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 7.9 Tumble dryer, normal cycle: maxi-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules mum exhaust temperature 68°C ± 6°C
1. Purpose and Scope (155°F ± 10°F), cool down time ≤ 10
must also be consulted and followed.
1.1 This test method is for the evalua- 5.1 Follow good laboratory practices. min. (see 15.6).
tion of fabrics to release an oily soil after Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar- 7.10 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
exposure to home laundering conditions. eas. Detergent (powder, without brightener
1.2 This test may be performed on gar- 5.2 Detergent may cause irritation. [WOB]) (see 15.1).
ments or other end products suitable for Take care to prevent contact with skin 7.11 Balance with at least 5.0-kg (10.0-
home laundering. and eyes. lb) capacity.
5.3 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec- 7.12 Laundering ballast Type 1 (see
2. Principle ommendations when operating laboratory Table II, 15.7).
testing equipment. 7.13 Water hardness test kit, residential
2.1 Corn oil is applied to a test speci- use.
men. The oil is forced into the fabric by 7.14 Evaluation area, as described in
using a specified weight. The stained fab- 6. Uses and Limitations Appendix A.
ric is then laundered in a prescribed man- 6.1 In this method, soils are purposely 7.15 AATCC Stain Release Scale (see
ner and the residual stain evaluated by forced into the fabric before laundering. 15.1)
comparison with a stain release scale To evaluate a fabric’s ability to resist or
showing a graduated series of stains. Re- repel oily soils, use AATCC TM118.
sults are reported as a grade from 5 to 1, 8. Specimens
6.2 Standard laundering conditions are
with 5 representing no residual stain and
not intended to replicate consumer care 8.1 Use two test specimens 38 × 38 ± 1
1 representing the most residual stain.
for all samples. By laundering all sam- cm (15.0 × 15.0 ± 0.4 in.) for each deter-
ples under the same conditions, this mination.
3. Referenced Documents method provides a relative measure of
stain release properties. The method may
NOTE: Use current versions of all be modified to use recommended care for
publications unless otherwise specified. 9. Conditioning
a particular sample, but results should not
3.1 AATCC LP1, Home Laundering: be compared with those for samples laun- 9.1 Prior to the application of corn oil,
Machine Washing (see 15.1). dered under different conditions. condition test specimens as directed in
3.2 AATCC TM118, Oil Repellency: 6.3 Specimens prepared for this ASTM D1776. (Use conditions indicated
Hydrocarbon Resistance Test (see 15.1). method should not be used for dimen- in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate
3.3 AATCC TM133, Colorfastness to sional change or appearance evaluation. conditioning time as indicated in Table 2
Heat: Hot Pressing (see 15.1). Specimens for this method should be for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay
3.4 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice laundered separately from specimens for each swatch or product, separately, on a
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles dimensional change or appearance. Al- screen or perforated shelf of a condition-
(see 15.2). though specimen dimensions are the ing/drying rack.

246 AATCC TM130-2018t --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 15.9) wrinkled and the consumer would AL-
Cycle (1) Normal WAYS expect to iron the end product,
hand iron swatches or products prior to
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2
evaluation. Use caution due to the ex-
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 tremely high variability in hand ironing
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 procedures performed by individual oper-
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 ators (no standard test method exists for
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) hand ironing procedures).
11.3.2 Use safe ironing temperature for
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control the sample. See AATCC TM133, Table I,
box may be used to override the machine set temperatures. Safe Ironing Temperature Guide for guid-
ance regarding textile fibers. Exert the
minimum pressure necessary to smooth
specimen.
Table II—Type 1 Laundering Ballast Parameters 11.4 Evaluate the grade of stain release
Type 1 of each specimen within 4 h after drying.
Fiber Content 100% cotton
Reconditioning is not required.
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
12. Evaluation
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged 12.1 Mount the Stain Release Scale on
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) the viewing board, with the center of the
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g scale 114 ± 3 cm (45 ± 1 in.) from the
floor (see Appendix A).
12.2 Place the test specimen flat with
10. Soil Application Procedure 11.1.1 Set washing machine controls to face up in the center of the table. Rotate
generate the parameters indicated in Table I. the fabric to the angle that produces the
10.1 Place a single thickness of blot- 11.1.2 Load for laundering shall con- lowest grade.
ting paper on a smooth, horizontal surface. sist of all specimens in the sample, plus 12.3 Stand directly in front of the spec-
10.2 Place the specimen face up, flat, enough laundering ballast pieces to make imen for evaluation. Stand 76 ± 3 cm (30
on the blotting paper. a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± ± 1 in.) from the viewing board, with
10.3 Using the medicine dropper, place 0.2 lb). eyes 157 ± 15 cm (62 ± 6 in.) from the
5 drops (approx. 0.2 mL) of corn oil in 11.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Al- floor. Varying the viewing angle either
the approximate center of the test speci- low machine to fill to specified water horizontally or vertically can affect
men. Apply all drops in the same loca- level. grades obtained on some fabrics.
tion. 11.1.4 Measure and record washing 12.4 Two observers shall indepen-
10.4 Place a 7.6 × 7.6 cm (3.0 × 3.0 in.) water hardness (see 15.8). dently assign a grade to each test speci-
square of glassine paper over the soil ap- 11.1.5 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 men. The grade is that of the Stain Re-
plication area. Standard Reference Detergent (without lease Scale that corresponds most closely
10.5 Place the weight on the glassine brightener) to washing machine as di- to the residual stain on the test specimen.
paper, directly over the soil application rected by washing machine manufac- Half-step grades (i.e., 1.5, 2.5, 3.5, 4.5)
area. turer’s instructions. If detergent is added may be assigned to residual stains that are
10.6 Allow weight to sit undisturbed directly to wash water, agitate briefly to between grades on the Stain Release
for 60 ± 5 s. Then remove the weight and dissolve completely. Stop agitation be- Scale.
discard the glassine paper. fore adding wash load. 12.5 Calculate the mean of 4 grades for
10.7 Repeat 10.2-10.6 for the second 11.1.6 Add wash load (test specimens the sample (2 observers, 2 specimens) to
specimen. If testing multiple samples to and ballast), distributing evenly around nearest 0.1. This is the unit of measure
be laundered together, the use of multiple center agitator. Restart wash cycle. for this test method.
weights allows greater testing efficiency. 11.1.7 Allow washing to proceed
Do not use blotting paper sites that have through the final spin cycle.
previously been used for soil application. 13. Report
11.1.8 Separate tangled specimens and
10.8 Wash specimens 20 ± 5 minutes ballast pieces, taking care to minimize 13.1 Describe or identify the fabric
after corn oil has been applied to allow distortion. Proceed to drying procedure. tested.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

stains to set in. Do not allow test speci- 11.2 Tumble Drying. 13.2 Report that the sample was tested
mens to contact each other in a manner 11.2.1 Place the washed load (test using AATCC TM130-2018t.
that would transfer corn oil. The maxi- specimens and ballast) in the tumble 13.3 Report the testing conditions:
mum number of test specimens per dryer, and set the temperature control to 13.3.1 Water hardness of the washing
washer load shall be 30. If testing multi- generate a maximum exhaust temperature procedure in terms of parts per million
ple samples and to comply with the 20 ± of 68°C ± 6°C (155°F ± 10°F). (ppm).
5 minutes dwell time requirement, it is 11.2.2 Allow the dryer to run until the 13.4 Report the test results:
recommended that the prescribed wash- load is fully dry. 13.4.1 Mean stain release grade calcu-
ing machine temperature, detergent and 11.2.3 Remove specimens from dryer lated in 12.5.
ballast pieces to be used are ready for all immediately on completion of the cycle 13.4.2 Individual stain release grades
specimens to be added at the same time. and lay flat to prevent formation of wrin- for each specimen and observer, or stan-
kles or creases that can affect the stain re- dard deviation of the mean.
11. Laundering Procedure lease rating. 13.5 Describe any modification(s) of
11.3 Ironing (optional) the published method, including alternate
11.1 Washing. 11.3.1 If the specimens are extremely staining or laundering procedures.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM130-2018t 247
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
14. Precision and Bias Corporate members, but AATCC does not tergent 124, the new detergent tending to be
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- less efficient toward oily stain release re-
14.1 Summary. An interlaboratory test tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- moval. No statistical difference at the 95%
was carried out in 1987 to establish the als meets the requirements in its test methods. probability level was observed for the new
precision of this test method. One opera- 15.4 Mazola, a trademark of ACH Food ballast Type 3.
tor at each of 5 laboratories tested 2 spec- Companies Inc., is a pure corn oil and was Revisions to the test method in 2010
imens of each of 5 fabrics each day for 3 used for the interlaboratory test of this method aligned wash fill level and detergent amount
days using 1 washer and 1 dryer. A deter- because it was widely available and consistent with that of other AATCC standards at that
in color and quality. Each bottle has a pur- time. A 2007/2008 interlab test study among 5
gent, widely available in the U.S., which laboratories showed: a) although there was
chase by date printed on the label. It should
contained 9.8% phosphate, was used (see not be used after that date. some differences observed between fill levels,
15.10). The reference vegetable oil used 15.5 The amber bottle is specified to protect there is no statistical indication that any one
was Mazola brand corn oil. Two observ- the corn oil from degradation. fill level is more consistent than the other; b)
ers independently evaluated the speci- 15.6 For model number(s) of washer(s) and although there was some differences observed
mens using the AATCC Stain Release tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard between detergent use levels, there is no statis-
Scale. The unit of measure was the aver- parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers tical indication that any one detergent use
age of the 2 grades for the 2 specimens or contact AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research level is more consistent than another; and c)
tested each day. The fabrics were limited Triangle Park NC 27709, USA; +1.919.549. raters within a lab were consistent with them-
8141; [email protected]. selves, replicate pieces were consistent to each
to polyester and polyester/cotton materi- other, rater-to-rater measurements were con-
als, most having soil release finishes. 15.7 There is a possibility of finish and/or
oil redeposition on ballast leading to subse- sistent with each lab, and Analysis of Variance
14.2 The components of variance as for these factors showed values in line with
standard deviations of stain release quent transfer to test specimens. Fresh ballast
should be used whenever it is deemed that the published historical values in the test
grades were calculated to be as follows: buildup has occurred to the point where stain method.
release results would be affected significantly Laundering conditions in other AATCC
AATCC Stain or in cases where results are critical in adopt- standards and available laundering equipment
Release Scale
ing new finishes. The ballast should be re- have continued to change. In 2018, “standard”
Single operator/washer 0.30 placed when it becomes obviously worn or laundering conditions were defined in
Between laboratories 0.23 frayed. AATCC LP1. These vary only slightly from
15.8 Water hardness may be measured with the previously defined AATCC TM130 laun-
dering conditions for Machine Wash Warm,
14.3 Critical Differences. For the com- a kit designed for residential use, following
Normal Cycle, Tumble Dry Normal. Previous
ponents of variance in 14.2, two averages manufacturer’s instructions. Hardness can
make detergent less effective and result in AATCC TM130 washing conditions pre-
of observed values should be considered scribed a 12-min. wash rather than the 16-min.
significantly different at the 95% proba- lower stain release grades. Hardness range is
not specified for this method, but use caution wash prescribed in Table I. Warm wash tem-
bility level if the difference equals or ex- in comparing test results obtained with vastly perature is the same. Previous AATCC
ceeds the critical differences shown in different water hardness values. TM130 drying conditions prescribed a 65°C
Table III. maximum exhaust temperature and 5-min.
15.9 The laundering temperatures and other
14.4 Bias. The true value of the oily cool down time; the method now prescribes a
parameters listed in this test method are stan-
stain release grade can only be defined in 68°C maximum exhaust temperature and
dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
≤ 10-min. cool down time to align with
terms of this test method. Within this lim- most lab procedures, they represent, but may
AATCC LP1 and related methods.
itation, this test method has no known not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
tices. Consumer practices vary over time and 15.11 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view-
bias. ing laundered specimens is specified in this
among households; lab practices must be con-
sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If method. It is recognized, however, that physi-
laundering equipment or conditions other than cal space limitations in certain laboratories
15. Notes will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those
those specifically listed in this test method are
used, they must be described in detail and situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
15.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
noted as a modification of the standard viewing board may be used.
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
USA; +1. 919.549.8141; [email protected]; method. Alternate laundering conditions are
www.aatcc.org. outlined in AATCC LP1.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
15.1.1 The AATCC Stain Release Scale 15.10 The 1995 revision of this method re- Appendix A
should be replaced every 12 months and flected the change in formulation of the refer- Evaluation Area
stored in the dark to prevent fading. ence detergent to eliminate phosphates. The
15.2 Available from ASTM International, revision also provided an additional choice of A1 Viewing Board.
100 Barr Harbor Dr, W Conshohocken PA ballast (Type 3). Preliminary comparative A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.)
19428, USA; +1.610.832.9500; www.astm.org. studies with the new reference detergent and high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide
15.3 For potential equipment information new ballast Type 3 were conducted by the
pertaining to this test method, please visit the AATCC Laboratory. These early results indi-
enough to accommodate scale.
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. cated a statistical difference between the 1993 A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility AATCC Standard Reference Detergent and on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 15.1).
of listing equipment and materials sold by its the previous AATCC Standard Reference De- Approximate CIELAB values for the
chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler-
ance of two units for each parameter is
acceptable for the board color in this test
Table III—Critical Differences, Grades, for the Conditions Noteda method.
(Observation = Unit of Measure = Average of 2 grades for 2 specimens) A2 Lighting.
A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
Single Operator/Washer Between Laboratories fixture (see 15.11).
No. of
Observations AATCC Stain Release Scale AATCC Stain Release Scale A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
1 0.82 1.04 white lamps (without baffle or glass),
2 0.58 0.86 A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
3 0.47 0.79 (without baffle or glass),
A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
a
The critical differences were calculated using t = 1.950, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom. A2.1.4 Eliminate all light sources ex-

248 AATCC TM130-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
cept the specified fluorescent lamps. mended that the side walls be painted A4.1 Table with non-glare black top
A3. Walls. matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units) or 610 × 920 mm (24 × 36 in.); 890 ± 30
A3.1 It has been the experience of many that blackout curtains be mounted on both mm (35 ± 1 in.) high.
observers that light reflected from the side sides of the viewing board to eliminate the A4.2 One long edge of table centered
walls near the viewing board can interfere reflective interference. and touching the viewing board (see Fig.
with the evaluation results. It is recom- A4. Specimen Table. A1).
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Fig. A1—Evaluation area for stain release evaluation.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM130-2018t 249
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM131-2019

Test Method for Colorfastness to Steam Pleating

1. Purpose and Scope information purposes only. The precau- inating fibers (see 12.7).
tions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6.4 Gray Scale for Color Change (see
1.1 This test method is intended for as- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 12.2). Refer to AATCC EP1 for addi-
sessing the colorfastness of textiles of all sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use tional materials, environment and use of
kinds and in all forms to the action of safe and proper techniques in handling gray scale.
steam pleating processes. The materials materials in this test method. Users
are not pleated during the test, and it is 6.5 Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.2).
MUST consult manufacturers for specific Refer to AATCC EP2 for additional ma-
emphasized that the test is not intended details such as safety data sheets and
for assessing the quality of the pleating terials, environment and use of the gray
other recommendations. Consult and fol- scale.
process (see 12.1). low all applicable OSHA standards and
1.2 Three (3) tests, differing in sever- rules.
ity, are provided; one (1) or more of them 5.1 Follow good laboratory practices. 7. Specimens
may be used. Wear safety glasses in all laboratory ar-
1.3 The severe test is intended prima- eas. 7.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric,
rily for wholly manufactured textiles cut a specimen 5 × 4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.)
such as those made from polyamide and 5.2 Follow manufacturer’s safety rec-
ommendations when operating laboratory 7.1.1 Place fabric specimen between
polyester fibers. It should not be used for two (2) pieces of undyed cloth and sew
textiles containing wool. testing equipment.
along one side to form a composite speci-
men.
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.3) 7.2 If the textile to be tested is yarn,
2. Principle
knit it into fabric and treat it as in 7.1, or
2.1 A specimen of the textile in contact 6.1 Specimen holder (see Fig. 1 and form a layer of parallel lengths of yarn
with specified undyed cloths is steamed 12.4). between the two (2) pieces of undyed
under specific conditions of pressure and 6.2 Jacketed steamer (see 12.5) or pres- cloth, the amount of yarn taken being ap-
time and then dried. The color change of sure cooker (see 12.6). proximately equal to half the combined
the specimen and staining on the undyed 6.3 Two (2) undyed scoured cloths, mass of the undyed cloths. Sew along one
cloths are assessed with standard gray each measuring 5 × 4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.), side to hold the yarn in place and to form
scales. Color change and staining results made of the same kind of fiber as that of a composite specimen.
are reported as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5 the textile to be tested or as otherwise 7.3 If the textile to be tested is loose fi-
representing no color change or staining specified. In the case of blends, two dif- ber, comb and compress an amount ap-
and 1 representing the most color change ferent undyed scoured cloths are re- proximately equal to half the combined
or staining. quired, corresponding to the two predom- mass of the undyed cloths into a sheet 5 ×

3. Referenced Documents
NOTE: Use current versions of all
publications unless otherwise specified.
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce-
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change
(see 12.2).
3.2 AATCC EP2, Evaluation Proce-
dure for Gray Scale for Staining (see
12.2).

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
4. Terminology
4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of
a material to change in any of its color
characteristics, to transfer of its colo-
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a
result of the exposure of the material to
any environment that might be encoun-
tered during the processing, testing, stor-
age or use of the material.
4.2 pleating, n.—the process of mak-
ing one or more desirable folds in a cloth
by doubling the material over on itself.

5. Safety Precautions
NOTE: These safety statements are for Fig. 1—Specimen holder.

250 AATCC TM131-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Steaming Conditions Corporate members, but AATCC does not
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
Test Duration Pressure (Gauge) Temperature tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
2 2 als meets the requirements in its test methods.
I.II Mild 5 min 0.35 kg/cm (5 lb/in. ) 108°C (226°F)
II. IIntermediate 10 min 0.7 kg/cm2 (10 lb/in.2) 115°C (239°F) 12.4 The specimen holder consists of a
copper tube 8 cm (3 in.) in external diameter.
III. Severe 20 min 1.76 kg/cm2 (25 lb/in.2) 130°C (266°F)
The thickness of the copper is 0.15 cm (0.06
in.) The copper tube is wrapped with six lay-
ers of bleached cotton cloth weighing 125 g/
m2 (3.7 oz/yd2). The outside layer is made
from bleached cotton cloth weighing 186 g/m2
4 cm (2.0 × 1.6 in.) Place the sheet be- 11. Precision and Bias
(5.5 oz/yd2). The edge of the outside layer is
tween the two (2) undyed cloths, and sew folded back and sewn to provide a place for
along all sides to form a composite speci- 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
method has not been established. Until a insertion of the rods. The rods at each end are
men. made from 0.6-cm (0.25-in.) diameter soft
precision statement is generated for this steel. The strength of the springs is not criti-
test method, use standard statistical tech- cal, but it should be sufficient to hold the layer
8. Procedure niques in making any comparisons of test tightly against the tube. The springs are fas-
results for either within-laboratory or be- tened to one of the steel rods and should hook
8.1 Mount the composite specimen in tween-laboratory averages. easily onto the other steel rod (see Fig. 1). A
the holder between the two undyed cloths 11.2 Bias. Colorfastness to steam 15.2-cm (6-in.) long specimen holder is pre-
(see 6.3) as shown in Fig. 1. pleating can be defined only in terms of a ferred.
8.2 Place the holder containing the test method. There is no independent 12.5 A jacketed steamer may be used, pro-
composite specimen in a jacketed method for determining the true value. vided that the pressure can be accurately de-
As a means of estimating this property, termined and that no water splashes on the
steamer or a pressure cooker. specimen during the test.
8.3 Steam under one of the sets of con- the method has no known bias.
12.6 A domestic pressure cooker may be
ditions listed in Table I. used as an alternative to a jacketed steamer. Its
8.4 When steaming is complete, re- 12. Notes dimensions should be sufficiently large to
lease the pressure over a period not ex- avoid water splashing onto the specimen dur-
ceeding 2 min. 12.1 Papers used in commercial pleating ing the test; it is suggested that the minimum
8.5 Separate layers of the composite occasionally contain reducing agents, that size should be 23 cm (9 in.) in diameter and 26
with certain coloring matters, can produce a cm (10 in.) high. It should be fitted with an ac-
specimen layers so they are in contact much greater change in color than occurs un- curate pressure gauge. If a domestic pressure
only at one line of stitching. Dry in air at der the test conditions. cooker is used, the specimen holder should be
a temperature not exceeding 60°C 12.2 Available from AATCC, PO Box loosely wrapped in one layer of polyester film,
(140°F). Condition at 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, which projects 1 cm (0.5 in.) over each end of
3°F) and 65 ± 2% RH for 4 h. USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; the tube and is not closed at the ends. The
8.6 Test specimens that liberate form- www.aatcc.org. specimen holder (see Fig. 2) should then be
aldehyde under steam pleating conditions 12.3 For potential equipment information placed in a rectangular metal container con-
separately. pertaining to this test method, please visit the taining 10 0.1 cm (0.06 in.) holes equally
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. spaced along the center of the bottom. The
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility container should be sufficiently deep to reach
of listing equipment and materials sold by its to 1 cm (0.5 in.) from the top of the specimen
9. Evaluation
9.1 Evaluate the color change of the
test specimen as directed in AATCC EP1.
9.2 Evaluate the staining on each un-
dyed adjacent cloth as directed in
AATCC EP2.

10. Report
10.1 Describe or identify the sample
tested.
10.2 Report that the sample was tested
using AATCC TM131-2019.
10.3 Report the testing conditions:
10.3.1 Test number (I, II or III).
10.3.2 Nominal fiber content of test
sample and undyed adjacent cloth(s).
10.4 Report the test results:
10.4.1 Color change grade for tested
specimen.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

10.4.2 Staining grades for the undyed

adjacent cloth(s). If the two cloths are
identical and show different degrees of
staining, only the heavier should be re-
ported.
10.5 Describe any modification(s) of
the published method. Fig. 2—Specimen holder in the container (for testing in pressure cooker).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM131-2019 251
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
holder. The bottom of the container should be cloths (see 5.3) it may have an adverse effect 2011. Editorially revised 2008. Reaffirmed
slightly concave to ensure that condensed wa- on the dye in the specimen, particularly under 2005. Editorially revised 2004. Editorially re-
ter rapidly drains away. The container is then alkaline conditions. vised and reaffirmed 2000. Editorially revised
placed on a stand that holds the container 5 cm and reaffirmed 1995. Reaffirmed 1990. Edi-
(2 in.) from the surface of the water. The quan- torially revised 1988. Reaffirmed 1985. Edito-
tity of water in the cooker is not critical, but 13. History rially revised 1981. Reaffirmed 1980.
water to a depth of 3 cm (1 in.) is suggested. Reaffirmed 1977. Reaffirmed 1974. Reaf-
Expel air from the pressure cooker for 2 min 12.1 Revised (with title change) in 2019 to firmed 1971. Reaffirmed 1970.
before raising the pressure. align format with AATCC style. 12.3 Developed in 1969 by AATCC Com-
12.7 If wool is used as one of the adjacent 12.2 Editorially revised 2013. Reaffirmed mittee RR53. Maintained by RA99.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`

252 AATCC TM131-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM132-2004e3(2013)e3

Test Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning

Developed in 1969 by AATCC Committee dures and are not intended to be all inclu- rpm.
RA43. Supersedes AATCC TM85-1968; sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.2 Standard stainless-steel containers,
reaffirmed 1973, 1976, 1979, 1989, safe and proper techniques in handling 7.5 cm diam × 12.5 cm (3 in. diam × 5
1998, 2003; editorially revised 1981, materials in this test method. Manufac- in.), of approximately 500 mL (1 pt) ca-
1986, 1990, 1995, 2001, 2002, 2008, turers MUST be consulted for specific pacity, which can be closed using sol-
2010, 2016, 2019; editorially revised details such as material safety data sheets vent-resistant gaskets.
and reaffirmed 1985, 2009, 2013; re- and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.3 Noncorrodible steel discs, 30.0 ±
vised 1993, 2004. Technically equiva- tions. All OSHA standards and rules 2.0 mm (1.18 ± 0.08 in.) diam × 3.0 ± 0.5
lent to ISO 105-D01. must be consulted and followed. mm (0.12 ± 0.02 in.) smooth and free
4.1 Good laboratory practices should from rough edges, weight 20.0 ± 2.0 g
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all (0.7 ± 0.07 oz).
1. Purpose and Scope laboratory areas. 5.4 Undyed cotton twill cloth weighing
1.1 This test method is intended for de- 4.2 All chemicals should be handled 270 ± 70 g/m2 (8 ± 2 oz/yd2), free from
termining the colorfastness of textiles to with care. finishes and cut into swatches 12.0 × 12.0
all kinds to drycleaning. 4.3 Perchloroethylene is toxic by inha- cm (4.75 × 4.75 in.).
1.2 The test method is neither suitable lation, by repeated contact with the skin 5.5 Multifiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33
for the evaluation of the durability of tex- and by ingestion; it should be used only in.] bands) containing acetate, cotton, ny-
tile finishes, nor is it intended for use in in a well vented atmosphere. Toxicology lon, silk, viscose rayon and wool. Multi-
evaluating the resistance of colors to spot studies with laboratory animals have fiber test fabrics (8 mm [0.33 in.] bands)
and stain removal procedures used by the shown evidence of cancer in rats and and (15 mm [0.6 in.] bands) containing
drycleaner (see 11.1). mice exposed to perchloroethylene va- acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic
1.3 This test method gives an indica- pors at 100-400 ppm concentrations for and wool (see 11.5).
tion of results to be obtained from three prolonged times. Fabric saturated with 5.6 Perchloroethylene, commercial dry-
commercial drycleanings. this solvent should be dried in an ade- cleaning grade.
quately ventilated hood. Use chemical 5.7 Gray Scale for Color Change
2. Principle goggles or face shield, impervious gloves (AATCC EP1) (see 11.6).
and an impervious apron when handling 5.8 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC
2.1 A specimen of the textile in contact perchloroethylene. EP2) or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans-
with cotton fabric, multifiber swatch and 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 11.6).
noncorrodible steel discs is agitated in

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
be located nearby and an organic vapor 5.9 Colorimeter or spectrophotometer.
perchloroethylene (see 11.2) and then respirator should be readily available for 5.10 Crockmeter Test Cloth.
dried in air. Any change in color of the emergency use. 5.11 Detergent, Perk-Sheen (see 11.7).
specimen is then assessed with the stan- 4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this
dard Gray Scale for Color Change procedure must be controlled at or below 6. Specimens
(AATCC EP1). levels set by governmental authorities
2.2 Any staining is assessed by using (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health 6.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric,
the Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC Administration’s [OSHA] permissible use three specimens, each 10 × 5 cm (4 ×
EP2) or the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29 2 in.) with the longer dimension parallel
Transference Scale (AATCC EP8). CFR 1910.1000; see web site: to the warp or wale direction of the fabric.
www.osha.gov for latest version). In ad- 6.2 If the textile to be tested is a yarn,
3. Terminology dition, the American Conference of Gov- knit it into a fabric and use three speci-
ernmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) mens 10 × 5 cm (4 × 2 in.) with the longer
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of dimension parallel to the wale direction
a material to change in any of its color Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) com-
prised of time weighted averages (TLV- of the fabric.
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 6.3 Sample preparation.
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a TWA), short term exposure limits (TLV-
STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are 6.3.1 White cotton fabric, multifiber 8
result of the exposure of the material to mm (0.33 in.) bands, of appropriate type.
any environment that might be encoun- recommended as a general guide for air
contaminant exposure which should be Prepare pieces with a 5 cm (2 in.) square
tered during the processing, testing, stor- of multifiber cloth or white cotton fabric
age or use of the material. met (see 11.3).
4.6 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- (as required) sewn, stapled or suitably at-
3.2 drycleaning, n.—the cleaning of tached along one 5 cm (2 in.) edge of the
fabrics with organic solvents such as pe- dations should be followed when operat-
ing laboratory testing equipment. test specimen and in contact with the face
troleum solvent, perchloroethylene or of the material. When multifiber test
fluorocarbon. 4.7 Any perchloroethylene residue
must be sent to a permitted waste man- cloth is used, attach it so that each of the
NOTE: The process also includes add- six fiber stripes is along the 5 cm (2 in.)
ing detergent and moisture to the solvent, agement facility. Any disposal must be in
compliance with federal, state or local edge of the specimen with wool on the
up to 75% RH, and hot tumble drying to right. The fiber stripes in the multifiber
71°C (160°F). regulations.
fabric will be parallel to the lengthwise
4. Safety Precautions 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.4) direction of the test specimen.
6.3.2 Multifiber 15 mm (0.6 in.) bands.
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.1 An accelerated laundering machine Prepare pieces with a 5 × 10 cm (2 × 4
for information purposes only. The pre- for rotating closed canisters in a thermo- in.) rectangle of multifiber cloth sewn,
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- statically controlled water bath at 40 ± 2 stapled or suitably attached centered

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM132-2004e3(2013)e3 253
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
along a 10 cm (4 in.) edge of the test surplus solvent. Air dry the specimen in a 8.3 Calculation.
specimen and in contact with the face of hood. Air at a temperature not exceeding 8.3.1 Average the observations made
the material. Attach it so that each of the 65°C (149°F). on each sample (means of judgement of 3
six fiber stripes will be parallel to the 7.5 Allow specimens to condition at 65 specimens).
widthwise direction of the specimen. At- ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) for 1 h
tach and secure the wool stripe at the top before evaluating. 9. Calculating and Reporting Results
of the specimen to avoid fiber loss. 7.6 Prepare the tested specimens and
6.3.3 It is recommended that knitted staining fabric for evaluation by trim- 9.1 Average the number of observa-
fabrics be sewn or stapled at the four ming off raveled yarns and lightly brush- tions made on each sample (means of
edges to equivalent size pieces of 80 × 80 ing off any loose fiber and yarn on the judgments on each of 3 specimens). Re-
cm bleached cotton fabric to avoid rolled fabric surfaces. Brush pile fabric speci- port the average to the nearest tenth of a
edges and to assist in obtaining a uniform mens in required direction to restore them grade point.
test result over the entire surface. as nearly as possible to the same pile an- 9.2 Report the test method number.
6.3.4 For pile fabric specimens with gle as the untreated specimens. Speci- 9.3 Report the grade number deter-
pile lay direction, attach the multifiber mens should be smoothed or flattened if mined for color change in 9.1 and the
fabric at the top of the specimen with the there are wrinkles. Specimens may be staining grade number for the evaluated
pile lay direction pointing away from the mounted on cards to facilitate identifica- fibers in the multifiber test fabric and/or
top of the specimen. tion and handling in their evaluation. staining fabric as determined in 9.2.
6.3.5 When the textile to be tested is Mounting must not interfere with rating 9.4 State which scale (Gray Scale for
yarn, specimens may be tested in one of as specified in AATCC EP1, AATCC Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic
two ways. EP2 and AATCC EP8. For consistency in Transference Scale) was used in evaluat-
6.3.5.1 Option 1. Knit yarn on an ap- backing material, use a white mounting ing staining (see 11.8).
propriate sample knitting machine. Pre- card with Y tristimulus value of at least 9.5 State which multifiber was used,
pare specimens and multifiber test fabrics 85%. and if the cotton print cloth was em-
according to 6.1-6.3. Keep one knitted 7.6.1 Yarn skein specimens should be ployed to avoid knit curling.
specimen of each sample as an original. combed and brushed for improved align-
6.3.5.2 Option 2. Prepare four 120-yd ment of yarns before comparison with the 10. Precision and Bias (see 11.9)
skeins of each yarn. Fold the skeins so unwashed original. The original speci-
that there is a uniform amount of yarn mens may also need further combing and 10.1 Precision. On one fabric, three
across a 2 in. width with a length appro- brushing for uniformity of appearance. specimens were tested by each of two op-
priate for the procedure to be used. Keep erators in three trials. The specimens
one skein of each sample as an original. were rated by two evaluators. The aver-
8. Evaluation and Calculation
Sew or staple crock squares folded over age grade for the two raters and three
each end of the layered yarn specimen. 8.1 Evaluation of Color Change. specimens was determined. This was con-
Attach a multifiber test fabric to one end. 8.1.1 Evaluate each test specimen for sidered the unit of measure of this test.
change in color by comparison with the 10.2 The components of variance as
Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC standard deviations of the color change
7. Procedure grades were calculated to be as follows:
EP1), or using AATCC EP7, Instrumen-
7.1 Prepare a bag for each specimen tal Assessment of the Change in Color of Single operator 0.03
with inside dimensions of 10 × 10 cm (4 a Test Specimen, and record the numeri- Within laboratory 0.11
× 4 in.) using the undyed cotton twill cal rating that corresponds to the appro-
cloth (see 5.4) by sewing together two priate one on the Gray Scale. For im- 10.3 Bias. The true value of the color
squares of this cloth around three sides. proved precision and accuracy, the change can only be defined in terms of
Place the specimen and 12 steel discs in- specimens should be rated by more than the test method. Within this limitation,
side the bag (see 5.3). Close the bag by one rater. the test method has no known bias.
any convenient means, such as sewing. 8.1.2 The color change can be quantita-
7.2 In a hood, prepare the perchloroet- tively determined between the original 11. Notes
hylene/detergent solution. To a 1000 mL sample and a test specimen using a suit- 11.1 This test method covers colorfastness
volumetric flask filled partially with per- able colorimeter or spectrophotometer to drycleaning only; it does not cover the ef-
chloroethylene, add 10 mL of detergent, (see AATCC EP7). fects of water spotting, solvent spotting and
(Perk Sheen 324). Shake or stir. Add per- 8.2 Evaluation of Staining. steam pressing which are normally involved in
chloroethylene until the total volume 8.2.1 Evaluate the staining of the mul- commercial drycleaning practice. For testing
equals 1000 mL. Add 0.6 mL water. tifiber fabric used in the test by compari- the durability of applied designs and finishes
Shake or stir until the solution is no son with AATCC EP2, AATCC EP8 or see AATCC TM86, Test Method for Durabil-
longer cloudy. This mixture produces a AATCC EP12, Instrumental Assessment ity of Applied Designs and Finishes to Dry-
cleaning.
1% charge volume/volume at 75% RH. of Degree of Staining, and record the nu- 11.2 Perchloroethylene is used in this test
7.3 In a hood, place the bag containing merical rating that corresponds to the ap- because (a) it is the most used solvent in com-
the specimen and the steel discs in the propriate one on either of them. The scale mercial drycleaning in the USA, and (b) it is
standard 500 mL (1 pt) stainless steel used should be indicated when reporting. slightly more severe in solvent action than pe-
container and add 200 mL perchloroeth- 8.2.2 The color transferred to the mul- troleum. A color which is not affected by per-
ylene detergent solution at 30 ± 2°C (86 ± tifiber fabric or white cotton square of chloroethylene will not be affected by
4°F). Close the container and agitate the 6.3.1 can be quantitatively determined by petroleum solvents, whereas the converse is
specimen for 30 min at 30 ± 2°C (86 ± measuring the color difference between a not always true.
4°F) in the accelerated laundering machine. piece of the original material and the 11.3 Available from Publications Office,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
7.4 Place the container in an ade- stained material. Using a suitable color- Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
quately ventilated hood. Remove the bag imeter or spectrophotometer, the 15 mm 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
from the container, withdraw the speci- (0.6 in.) bands multifiber material has 11.4 For potential equipment information
men and place the specimen between lay- sufficient width to be within the aperture pertaining to this test method, please visit
ers of absorbent paper or cloth to remove diameter capability of many instruments. the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.

254 AATCC TM132-2004e3(2013)e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists and
- Ho Colorists
--``,`,,,``,,```

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Licensee=Underwriters Laboratories Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: pendent on the combined variability of the
of listing equipment and materials sold by its +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: material being tested, the test method itself,
Corporate members, but AATCC does not [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. and the evaluation procedure utilized.
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 11.7 Available from Adco Inc., 900 W. 11.9.1 The precision statement shown in
tify that any of the listed equipment or Main St., P.O. Box 999, Sedalia MO 65301; Section 10 was developed from results ob-
materials meets the requirements in its test tel: +1.660.826.3300 or +1.800.821.7556; fax: tained by visual evaluations (AATCC EP1 for
methods. +1.660.826.1361; e-mail: [email protected]; color change and AATCC EP2 and AATCC
11.5 Bleached cotton test fabric in 32 × 32 web site: www.adco-inc.com. EP8 for staining).
ends × picks/cm (80 × 80 ends × picks/in.) 11.8 For very critical evaluations and in 11.9.2 It is expected that the use of instru-
construction, 136 ± 10 g/m2 (4.0 ± 0.3 oz/yd2) cases of arbitration, grades must be based on mental evaluations (AATCC EP7 and AATCC
and without optical brightener. the Gray Scale for Staining. EP12) will result in greater precision than that
11.6 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 11.9 The precision of this test method is de- obtained from visual evaluations.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM132-2004e3(2013)e3

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
255
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM133-2020e

Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Hot Pressing

1. Purpose and Scope any environment that might be encoun- use of the chromatic scale.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 6.6.2 For instrumental evaluation, use
1.1 This test method is intended for de- age or use of the material. a spectrophotometer as specified in
termining the resistance of the color of 4.2 hot pressing, n.—a process for AATCC EP12.
textiles of all kinds and in all forms to smoothing and possibly shaping textile
color change, and color transfer when products by applying mechanical pres-
subjected to hot pressing. Tests are given 7. Sampling
sure with heat, either dry or in the pres-
for hot pressing when the fabric is dry, ence of moisture. 7.1 Test results are valid only when the
damp and wet. The textile end use usu- samples are statistically representative
ally determines which tests should be (see ASTM E1402).
5. Safety Precautions
made. 7.2 Sampling must be random. Every
5.1 The safety precautions specified in unit of product must have a mathemati-
2. Principle the method/procedure are ancillary to the cally equal chance of becoming a sample;
testing procedures and are not intended to and every portion of each sample must be
2.1 Dry Pressing. The dry specimen is be all inclusive. equally likely to become a test specimen.
pressed with a heating device at a speci- 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- 7.3 All specimens must be alike within
fied temperature and pressure for a speci- erence applicable safety data sheets, use the variations due to pure chance. There
fied time. safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- must be no differences within samples as-
2.2 Damp Pressing. The dry specimen propriate personal protective equipment signable to known causes.
is covered with a wet, undyed cotton in handling materials in this standard.
cloth and pressed with a heating device at 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- 8. Specimens
a specified temperature and pressure for a ers for specific details such as equipment
specified time. operating instructions and other recom- 8.1 If the textile to be tested is fabric, a
2.3 Wet Pressing. The wet specimen is mendations. Consult and follow all appli- 12 × 4 cm specimen is used.
covered with a wet, undyed cotton cloth cable health and safety regulations (e.g., 8.2 If the textile to be tested is yarn or
and pressed with a heating device at a OSHA standards and rules). thread, knit it into a fabric specimen 13 ×
specified temperature and pressure for a 4 cm or wind it around a piece of thin, in-
specified time. 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.2) ert material 12 × 4 cm.
2.4 Color change of specimen and
staining of cotton cloth are each reported 6.1 Heating device, providing even 9. Conditioning
as a grade from 5 to 1, with 5 repre- heat transfer to the specimen from the top
senting no color change or staining and 1 by close contact at a controlled tempera- 9.1 Condition specimens, wool flannel,
representing the most color change or ture (110-200°C, see 10.1) and giving a and undyed cotton cloth for at least 4 h in
staining. pressure on the specimen of 40 ± 10 g/cm2 an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F)
(see 14.3, 14.4). and 65% ± 5% RH by laying each piece
3. Referenced Documents 6.2 Smooth, heat-resistant sheet (see separately on a screen or perforated shelf
14.5). of a conditioning rack.
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- 6.3 Wool flannel, approximately 260 g/
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change m2 (see 14.3). Two layers of this material 10. Procedure
(see 14.1). are used to make a pad approximately 3
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

3.2 AATCC EP2, Evaluation Proce- mm thick. Other smooth wool fabrics or 10.1 Use one of the following tempera-
dure for Gray Scale for Staining (see felt may also be used to achieve this tures (see Table I, 14.6):
14.1). thickness. 110 ± 2°C
3.3 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- 6.4 Cotton cloth, undyed, bleached, un- 150 ± 2°C
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the mercerized, with a smooth surface, 100- 200 ± 2°C
Change in Color of a Test Specimen (see 130 g/m2.
14.1). 6.5 Equipment and environment for When necessary, other temperatures
3.4 AATCC EP8, Evaluation Proce- evaluating color change. may be used, provided they are specifi-
dure for AATCC 9-Step Chromatic 6.5.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray cally noted in the report. Preheat the top
Transference Scale (see 14.1). Scale for Color Change (see 14.1). Refer plate of heating device to test temperature
3.5 AATCC EP12, Evaluation Proce- to AATCC EP1 for additional materials for at least 15 min. During the preheating
dure for Instrumental Assessment of De- and use of gray scale. period and between test periods, both
gree of Staining (see 14.1). 6.5.2 For instrumental evaluation, use plates of the heating device should be in
3.6 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for a spectrophotometer as specified in contact to ensure uniform heat distribu-
Sampling Design. AATCC EP7. tion.
6.6 Equipment and environment for 10.2 Cover the bottom plate of the
4. Terminology evaluating staining. heating device with the heat resistant
6.6.1 For visual evaluation, use Gray sheet. Place wool flannel over the sheet.
4.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of Scale for Staining or AATCC 9-Step Place dry, undyed cotton cloth over wool
a material to change in any of its color Chromatic Transference Scale (see 14.1). flannel (see Fig. 1). Allow the sheet to
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- Refer to AATCC EP2 for additional ma- cool and fabric to dry between tests.
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a terials and use of the gray scale. Refer to 10.3 Dry Pressing. Place dry test speci-
result of the exposure of the material to AATCC EP8 for additional materials and men on top of the cotton cloth (see Fig. 1).

256 AATCC TM133-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Safe Pressing Temperature Guide (see 14.6) 13.2 Bias. Colorfastness to heat, hot
pressing, can be defined only in terms of
Class 0 a test method. There is no independent
Class I Class II Class III Class IV
< 121°C 121-135°C 149-163°C 177-191°C ≥ 204°C
method for determining the true value.
As a means of estimating this property,
Modacrylic 93-121°C Acetate Acrylic Nylon 6,6 Cotton the method has no known bias.
Olefin (Polyethylene) 79-121°C Olefin (Poly- Azlon Polyester Fluorocarbon
propylene) Nylon 6
Glass 14. Notes
Hemp, Jute,
Ramie 14.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
Rubber 82-93°C Silk Spandex Linen 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
Wool Rayon, USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
Viscose www.aatcc.org.
Saran 66-93°C Triacetate 14.2 For potential apparatus, reagents or
(heat set) materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s
Vinyon 54°C Guide at www. aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides
its Corporate members the option to list their
items and services. AATCC does not qualify,

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
or in any way approve, endorse or certify that
Top Plate (heating device) color change of the test specimen as di- any of the listings meet the specifications in its
rected in AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7. standards.
Damp or Wet 12 × 4 cm Cotton* 14.3 To obtain the pressure per unit area 40
11.3 For Damp or Wet Pressing, condi-
± 10 g/cm2 the total area of the wool flannel
12 × 4 cm Test Specimen** tion the top cotton cloth (placed damp or
padding should bear a suitable relationship to
Dry Cotton Cloth wet over the specimen for testing) for 4 h the mass of the plate pressing down on the
in an atmosphere of 65 ± 5% RH and a padding. If the fabric to be tested has an ap-
Wool Flannel Pad temperature of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F). Eval- preciable thickness, it is necessary either to in-
Heat Resistant Sheet uate the staining on the conditioned cloth crease the area of the test specimen or to
Bottom Plate (heating device)
as directed in AATCC EP2, AATCC EP8, augment the pressure-bearing surface using a
or AATCC EP12 (see 14.7, 14,8). suitable template made from the same material
*Damp or Wet Pressing only. Evaluate staining after as the test specimen. If the plates of the heat-
4 h conditioning.
** Evaluate color change immediately and after 4 h
ing device are smaller than the specimen size,
conditioning. 12. Report the pressure depends on the design of the ap-
paratus (ratio of mass and area of top plate).
12.1 Describe or identify the sample 14.4 For less critical testing, a household
Fig. 1—Testing set-up for AATCC TM133. tested. iron may be used; but its temperature should
12.2 Report that the sample was tested be measured with a surface pyrometer or with
using AATCC TM133-2020e. temperature sensitive papers. The iron should
Lower top plate of heating device and 12.3 Report the testing conditions: be weighted so that its area and total weight
leave specimen for 15 s at the specified 12.3.1 Test procedure (dry, damp or are in the approximate ratio to exert a pressure
pressing temperature. wet). of 40 ± 10 g/cm2. However, due to tempera-
10.4 Damp Pressing. Place dry speci- 12.3.2 Temperature of the heating de- ture fluctuation during on-off differences over
men on top of the cotton cloth. Soak a vice. the iron surface, the accuracy and reproduc-
second piece of undyed cotton cloth (12 ibility are limited. When a hand iron is used, it
12.3.3 Wet pickup (%) of cotton cloth
× 4 cm) in distilled water, and squeeze or must be stated in the report.
and tested sample, if applicable. 14.5 The heat resistant sheet is used for in-
extract it to contain its own weight of wa- 12.3.4 Evaluation procedure for color
ter (100% wet pickup). Place the wet sulation and should be smooth and not
change (AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7). warped. It is best to complete specimen as-
cloth on top of the dry specimen (see Fig. 12.3.5 Evaluation procedure for stain- sembly on the heat resistant sheet before plac-
1). Lower the top plate of the heating de- ing (AATCC EP2, AATCC EP8, or ing it on the heating device. This insulating
vice and leave specimen for 15 s at the AATCC EP12). material must be used, whether the bottom
specified pressing temperature. 12.4 Report the test results: plate is heated or not, to prevent heat to or
10.5 Wet Pressing. Soak the test speci- 12.4.1 Color change grade for tested from the bottom of the test assembly.
men and a piece of undyed cotton cloth specimen immediately after pressing. 14.6 The pressing temperature selection de-
(12 × 4 cm) in distilled water and squeeze 12.4.2 Color change grade for tested pends to a large extent on the type of fiber and
or extract them to contain their own specimen after pressing and conditioning. on the construction of the fabric or garment. In
weight of water (100% wet pickup). 12.4.3 for Damp or Wet Pressing, the case of blends, use the temperature appro-
Place the wet specimen on top of the dry staining grade for cotton cloth after press-
priate to the fiber with the lowest heat resis-
cotton cloth. Place the wet cotton cloth tance.
ing and conditioning. 14.7 For very critical evaluations and in the
over the specimen. Lower the top plate of 12.5 Describe any modification(s) of
the heating device and leave specimen for case of litigation, ratings must be based on the
the published method. geometric Gray Scale for Staining or the in-
15 s at the specified pressing temperature.
strumental equivalent.
14.8 CAUTION: It has been reported that
11. Evaluation 13. Precision and Bias the results for staining obtained by this
method on fabrics dyed to dark shades (navy,
11.1 Immediately after testing, evalu- 13.1 Precision. Precision for this test black, etc.) that contain a combination of poly-
ate the color change of the test specimen method has not been established. Until a ester and spandex, or their blends, may not
as directed in AATCC EP1 or AATCC precision statement is generated for this show the full staining propensity of such fab-
EP7. test method, use standard statistical tech- rics in consumer use. It is, therefore, recom-
11.2 After conditioning for 4 h in an at- niques in making any comparisons of test mended that the staining results obtained by
mosphere of 65 ± 5% RH and a tempera- results for either within-laboratory or be- this test not be used for the acceptance testing
ture of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F), evaluate the tween-laboratory averages. of such fabrics.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM133-2020e 257
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
15. History revised 2016. Revised 2013. Editorially 1986, 1985. Reaffirmed 1984. Editorially re-
revised 2010. Editorially revised and reaf- vised 1981. Reaffirmed 1979, 1976. Revised
15.1 Editorially revised in 2021 to up- firmed 2009. Editorially revised 2008. Editori- 1973.
date test method reference to match current ally revised and reaffirmed 2004. Editorially 15.3 Developed in 1969 by AATCC
title. revised 2002, 2001. Editorially revised and Committee RR54 (supersedes AATCC TM5-
15.2 Revised in 2020 to align with pre- reaffirmed 1999, 1994. Editorially revised 1962). Maintained by RA99.
scribed AATCC style guidelines. Editorially 1991. Reaffirmed 1989. Editorially revised 15.4 Adopted as ISO 105-X11 in 1987.

258 AATCC TM133-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Method for Electrostatic Propensity of Carpets

Developed in 1969 by AATCC Commit- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- other testing conditions (e.g., for aircraft
tee RR32; jurisdiction transferred in dures and are not intended to be all inclu- or for controlled-humidity environments)
2007 to AATCC Committee RA57; re- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use and the test facility should be capable of
vised 1975, 1979, 1991, 2001, 2011, safe and proper techniques in handling achieving and maintaining those conditions.
2016, 2019; reaffirmed 1986, 1996, re- materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.1.1 The room should be of such di-
affirmed and editorially revised 2006; turers MUST be consulted for specific mensions and so arranged that the test op-
editorially revised 2007, 2008, 2013. details such as material safety data sheets erator comes no closer than approxi-
Related to ISO 6356. and other manufacturer’s recommenda- mately 600 mm to extraneous grounded
tions. All OSHA standards and rules or charged surfaces (such as walls or
must also be consulted and followed. workbenches) during testing and should
1. Purpose and Scope 4.1 Good laboratory practices should be equipped with open-wire shelves,
1.1 This test method assesses the probe followed. Wear safety glasses in all racks or horizontal rods suitable for hang-
pensity of carpets to generate static when laboratory areas. ing carpet samples for conditioning. Air
a person walks across them. This method 4.2 All chemicals should be handled must pass freely around all surfaces of the
uses controlled laboratory simulation of with care. samples to facilitate moisture equilibration.
the conditions, that may be encountered 4.3 Isopropyl alcohol is a flammable 6.2 Test sandals should be used only
in use. The conditions used in this test in- liquid and should be stored in the labora- for testing carpet. New test sandals
clude those known from experience to be tory only in small containers away from should be cleaned before use as pre-
contributors to excessive accumulation of heat, open flames and sparks. scribed in 9.7.1. Soles must be attached
static charges. 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- to the sandals by gluing and/or stitching.
1.2 This test method does not include dations should be followed when operat- Tacks or rivets must not be used.
standards of performance. The specifica- ing laboratory testing equipment. 6.2.1 One pair of AATCC TM134 san-
tion requirements pertinent to any given 4.5 Ground all electrical equipment. dals (see 13.1) manufactured with XS
application can vary considerably, de- 4.6 High-voltage sources should have an 664 P-HK Neolite soles. A second pair
pending on the specific demands of the internal impedance of not less than 1 × 108 of Neolite test shoes or sandals with
application. It is recommended that spec- ohm (or the maximum output current lim- optional self-adhesive (i.e., replaceable)
ifiers evaluate results with caution as ited to 1 milliampere) to avoid shock haz- suede leather attached to the shoe sole.
large variations were noted during inter- ard in calibration of the detection system. The second pair of Neolite shoes or san-
and intralab testing using this test dals must be dedicated to this use only.
method. 5. Uses and Limitations 6.2.2 Reagent grade isopropyl alcohol
and cheesecloth.
2. Principle 5.1 Build-up of a static charge on a 6.3 Electrostatic detection and record-
person walking across a carpet under ing means for voltages up to at least 20
2.1 A carpet brought to moisture equi- conditions of low atmospheric humidity
librium at controlled atmospheric condi- kV (see 13.2 and 13.3).
has been recognized as a classic example
tions is walked on by a test operator in a 6.3.1 The system should have a high
of the triboelectric effect, whereby a sep-
specified manner with specified shoe input impedance and be suitably damped
aration of electrical charges is produced
soles and heels. The static charge, which such that a steady recorder or meter indi-
when two dissimilar surfaces in contact
builds up on the operator, is monitored cation of 3000 V will, when the input is
are separated. The magnitude of the
continuously by a voltage indicator with grounded, decay to 1500 V in not less
charge separation and the resultant volt-
a recorder. age on the person vary under the influ- than 1 s or more than 3 s (this corre-
2.2 The maximum voltage, generated ence of many factors. The most important sponds to a time constant of 1.4-4.3 s).
on the person by the charge accumulated, factors for the purpose of this test are: To achieve reasonable accuracy in use,
and measured during the test period is the input capacitance, including lead-in

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
(a) the chemical and physical charac-
considered to be the static-generating wire, should not exceed 30 pF. (See Ap-
teristics of the two materials brought into
propensity of the carpet under the condi- pendix A for additional information on
contact, rubbed and separated; i.e., the
tions of this test. shoe soles and carpet; measurement of damping and Appendix
B for information on damping tech-
(b) the surface contamination on one or
3. Terminology niques.)
both;
(c) the nature of the rubbing and/or 6.4 A grounded metal plate approxi-
3.1 electrostatic propensity, n.—of mately 1200 × 1200 mm.
carpets, the ability to produce and accu- separation, i.e., the method of walk, in-
cluding the height of the shoe above the 6.5 A standard 1350 g/m2 rubberized
mulate an electrostatic charge. jute/hair cushion underlay (see 13.1) at
NOTE: For the purposes of this test, it carpet; and
(d) the ambient conditions (especially least 1200 × 1200 mm. The vertical resis-
is the resultant voltage on a person walk- tance through the cushion shall not be
ing across the surface of a textile floor the relative humidity).
less than 1012 ohms (see 13.6).
covering under specified conditions, 6.6 A set of AATCC TM134 Static
which has been caused by the accumula- 6. Apparatus and Materials
Control Carpets (see 13.1) consisting of
tion of an electrostatic charge on the body. static unprotected and static protected
6.1 A room that can be maintained at a
4. Safety Precautions temperature of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and at versions.
20 ± 5% RH, and suitable means for mon- 6.7 An optional metronome.
NOTE: These safety precautions are itoring these conditions. Special require- 6.8 An optional handheld blowing-fan
for information purposes only. The pre- ments of end-use may dictate the use of balanced ionizer (see 13.4).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM134-2019 259
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
7. Specimens specimen and underlay have been found sive. Note that the samples and underlay
to be a major source of error. Residual must be discharged between repeat tests
7.1 Cut each carpet test specimen to a charges should decay naturally over a pe- or between types of tests or between tests
size of approximately 900 × 900 mm or riod of several hours. Specimens should with different soles, in order to avoid er-
1000 × 1000 mm. If test specimens are be hung undisturbed for a minimum of 4 rors. Discharge may be achieved by al-
less than this size, multiple specimens h, or thoroughly neutralized with a blow- lowing natural discharge over 4 h or
may be pieced together to reach the re- ing-fan, balanced high-voltage ionizer, overnight, or neutralization with a blow-
quired test size. prior to each testing, as above. ing-fan, handheld balanced high-voltage
9.3.2 Lay the underlay on the grounded ionizer, as above.
8. Conditioning metal plate, rubberized side up. Avoid 9.6.1 Tests.
dragging the underlay across the surface Test I—Step Test/Neolite Soles
8.1 Condition specimens under the re- or rubbing different parts of it together. Test II—Scuff Test/Neolite Soles
quired test conditions, 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 9.3.3 If a blowing-fan, balanced high- (Optional)
4°F) and 20 ± 5% RH, for a minimum of voltage ionizer is available, thoroughly Test III—Step Test/Self-adhesive
48 h prior to testing. This will equilibrate and slowly cover the entire surface of the suede leather soles (Optional)
the moisture content of the specimens to underlay with the ionizer output, holding Test IV—Scuff Test/Self-adhesive
the test conditions. The temperature and the ionizer about 100-200 mm above the suede leather soles (Optional)
relative humidity should be automatically underlay. This will neutralize any resid- 9.6.2 Step Test Procedure. While
recorded during the conditioning period ual charges from handling. holding the hand probe, walk on the spec-
with a chart recorder or other electronic 9.3.4 Lay the specimen on the underlay imen using a simple box step, lifting the
recording device. carefully to avoid excessive friction sandals as close as possible to 80 mm
8.1.1 Hang or lay specimens in such against the mat or rubbing different parts above the specimen at the rate of 120 ±
manner that free circulation of air over of it together. 10 steps per min (a metronome can be
both surfaces is possible. 9.3.5 If a blowing-fan, balanced high- used). Always keep the plane of the san-
voltage ionizer is available, thoroughly dal soles parallel to the plane of the spec-
9. Procedure and slowly cover the entire surface of the imen. Do not scuff or rub the sandals
sample with the ionizer output, holding over the specimen. Cover the entire sur-
9.1 Test AATCC TM134 Static Unpro- the ionizer about 100-200 mm above the face of the specimen during stepping, for
tected Control Carpet without an under- sample. This will neutralize any residual a total test time of 1 min or until a consis-
lay (to avoid charging the underlay) and charges from handling. tent peak voltage is observed for each
the Static Protected Control Carpet with 9.3.6 Zero the test apparatus. Place step. Touch the ground with the hand
an underlay at the beginning of each test- clean test sandals (see 9.7) on the speci- probe to bring the body voltage to “0.”
ing session. If the results are outside of men, grasp the test probe and ground the Neutralize the carpet and underlay prior
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

the test laboratory’s Control Chart Con- test operator while standing off the speci- to any further testing.
trol Limits, then seek the cause of the de- men in stocking feet. Ensure that the re- 9.6.3 Scuff Test Procedure. While
viation and correct the problem. Check corder reads “0.” Step into the clean test holding the probe, scuff (or wipe) as
relative humidity and temperature (cur- sandals specified for the test while stand- though wiping chewing gum from the
rent values and recorded values during ing on the specimen and holding the test bottom of both sandals. The wiping ac-
the specimen conditioning period) (see probe, being careful not to move the san- tion is always in a backward motion. As
6.1). Test backup Control Carpets if dals around on the specimen. above, the bottom of the sandal should
available (see 6.6), reclean soles (see 9.7) 9.4 After following the procedure in reach a height of as close as possible to
and check instrument calibration. Use a 9.3, there should be very little voltage in- 80 mm above the specimen, parallel to
blowing-fan, handheld, balanced high- dication. Presence of significant voltage the sample. Repeat scuffing at a rate of 60
voltage ionizer to neutralize any charge (more than 200 V) indicates excessive ± 5 steps per min and continue the motion
on the underlay pad between tests and initial charge somewhere in the system for about 1 min while covering the entire
prior to testing any specimen, moving it and the procedures in 9.2 and 9.3 must be specimen. Touch the ground with the
slowly over the entire surface at a height repeated to avoid possible significant er- hand probe to bring the body voltage to
of about 100-200 mm above it for at least rors. Since the location of the spurious “0.” Neutralize the carpet and underlay
1 min. charge is important in affecting the final prior to any further testing.
9.2 Test the specimen once a day until test results, it is not sufficient to simply 9.7 Remove and clean the sandal.
two reproducible voltages are obtained. reground the test subject, although this Hang or lay the specimen on the condi-
Voltages are considered reproducible will obviously create a new zero value. tioning rack. The procedures in 9.7.1 and
when consecutive tests agree within 10% 9.5 If the carpet is not intended for in- 9.7.2 will usually suffice to clean the san-
or 0.5 kV, whichever is greater. Leaving stallation over an underlay, then the spec- dals. Sandals must be cleaned with ex-
the specimen in the test chamber over- imen shall be tested without an underlay. treme care after testing specimens, which
night should allow any static charges to In such cases, test the specimen on the have had surface-type (spray-on, topical)
be dissipated. This process may be accel- grounded metal plate and record the fact antistatic treatments (see 13.7). Failure to
erated by using a blowing-fan, balanced that the test was performed on the speci- do so may transfer material from one
high-voltage ionizer to neutralize any men mounted directly on a grounded sur- specimen to another.
charges. If an ionizer is used to thor- face. Otherwise, follow the procedure 9.7.1 Clean Neolite sandal soles by
oughly neutralize the specimen (held outlined in 9.3. swabbing with cheesecloth or paper
about 100-200 mm above the specimen 9.6 Proceed with the tests described towel moistened with isopropyl alcohol,
and moved slowly over its entire surface, below in 9.6.1 with the neolite soles, and using a fresh cheesecloth or paper towel.
requiring approximately 1-2 min), the same if required, the suede leather soles. In case of extensive contamination, re-
specimen may be retested the same day. NOTE: Be sure to keep SEPARATE peat this procedure, sand the sole with
9.3 Test the specimen over the standard shoes or sandals for the Neolite and suede fine sandpaper to expose fresh material
underlay (see 6.5), which is placed on the leather tests; do not remove the leather and clean again.
grounded metal plate. and test with the underlying Neolite, 9.7.2 The suede leather soles are diffi-
9.3.1 Residual static charges on the since it will be contaminated by the adhe- cult to clean, once contaminated. Sanding

260 AATCC TM134-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
the sole may remove the contamination. voltage from the start of the test walk. tric performance differs significantly
Other cleaning methods may contaminate 10.3 Effect of contaminants. Carpets from that of Neolite soles, in that they
the leather or change its electrical proper- that have been contaminated by spills, tend to give high values on acrylic, poly-
ties (such as water absorption from iso- soiling, contact with other carpets or ma- ester and polypropylene carpets.
propanol/water cleaning solution). Re- terials that have removable chemical 10.4.3 For some purposes it may be de-
place these soles if sanding does not components, etc., will yield results that sirable or necessary to characterize carpet
readily remove the contamination. are different from clean carpets. Since the performance with special shoes, such as
9.7.3 Store the test sandals in the con- triboelectric effect depends upon the dif- ESD (electrostatic discharge) control
trolled relative humidity of the test area. ference between the flooring and the footwear. Equivalent test procedures can
9.8 Record the test parameters, includ- shoes, these contaminants may increase be conducted with any relevant sole ma-
ing specimen identification, specimen or decrease the measured electrostatic terials or shoes, but such tests should be
tested “as received” or “cleaned,” date, propensity. Similarly, non-permanent considered supplementary information
temperature, relative humidity, sandal topical treatments will affect the results; only.
sole and walking procedures (Step or the variation of such treatments over time
Scuff). and after cleaning should be considered 11. Report
9.9 In case of any uncertainty about the by the test requester. To remove contami-
consistency of the test conditions, retest nants, a hot-water extraction procedure is 11.1 Two reproducible voltages and
the AATCC Static Control Carpets at the recommended, such as AATCC TM171, their average should be reported (see 9.2)
end of and throughout the testing session Test Method for Carpets: Cleaning of; for the Step test method with neolite soles
to assure that testing conditions have not Hot Water Extraction. with the highest voltage or for each op-
changed. If the Control Carpet measure- 10.4 Effect of sole materials. Very tional test method as requested, with the
ments are significantly different (outside large differences in laboratory and field polarity indicated as positive or negative.
of the test laboratory’s established Control results will often occur as a result of use (The polarity does not affect the impact
Limits for the control specimens), then of different shoe sole materials. The tri- of static buildup on people or equipment,
the specimen test results are unreliable. boelectric, surface roughness and con- but does serve a diagnostic purpose. Only
ductivity characteristics of the materials the magnitude of the results should be
are important. Higher conductivity soles considered when comparing the test re-
10. Analysis of Results sults with floor covering static-control
will tend to suppress the accumulation of
10.1 The chart trace serves as a perma- charge on a person particularly when car- specifications.) Optional scuff test mea-
nent record of the test and characterizes pets having static-control filaments are surements should also be reported, if
the carpet for electrostatic propensity. tested. required, for comparison; Scuff test
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

The maximum voltage (at the highest 10.4.1 Neolite XS 664 P-HK has been measurements are more variable within-
point of each step), the sign of the voltage chosen as the primary reference material lab and between-lab than step test results.
and the rate-of-rise of voltage are charac- because its static performance is much If Scuff test measurements differ from
teristics available from the chart trace and like that of many common shoe soles; it Step test results by more than 2.5 kV, the
have been found to be relevant to the per- is easy to keep clean and its chemical and report should explain that this may be an
formance of a carpet under use conditions physical properties are believed to be indication that a topical treatment or
similar to those of the test. quite uniform. Its triboelectric properties contaminant may be present on the
10.2 Maximum voltage, Step and are distinct from those of nylon, the specimen. When a carpet is evaluated for
Scuff. The maximum voltage is defined dominant carpet fiber polymer. Other the full triboelectric effect the step and
as the maximum achieved for several types of carpet should also be tested with scuff methods should be performed with
successive steps. An example is given in the secondary reference material for a neolite and suede leather soles.
Fig. 1. more complete characterization of the 11.2 Report the AATCC Static Control
10.2.1 Rate of rise of voltage may be static propensity of the carpet. Carpet test results for the same day(s) as
reported, Step and Scuff. The average 10.4.2 Suede leather has been chosen the specimen test(s), the laboratory’s Up-
rate of increase of voltage (in kV/s) is as the secondary reference material be- per Control Limit and Lower Control
taken as the reported maximum voltage cause typically it is representative of a Limit, and the laboratory’s established
divided by the time required to reach that certain class of leathers whose triboelec- measurement standard deviation for each
control, for each type of test (see 13.5).
11.3 The test report should include the
testing conditions (relative humidity and
temperature), test method and version,
and any observations or apparent anoma-
lies.
11.4 The report should state whether
an ionizer was used to neutralize charges
on the samples prior to each test. If speci-
mens were tested without an underlay,
the presence or absence of the underlay
should be noted.
11.5 The report should state whether
the carpet was tested “as received” or
what preparation technique (e.g., “cleaned
using AATCC TM171”) was used. A ca-
veat on the use of AATCC TM134 should
be included which states, “The results of
this test relate to the sample of carpet
tested. Its static performance may be al-
Fig. 1—Typical chart trace indicating maximum voltage. tered in service as a result of wear, soil-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM134-2019 261
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ing, cleaning, temperature, relative hu- are to be used to define when all of the experi- power supply output for a steady 3 kV
midity, etc.” mental conditions and equipment parameters reading on the electrometer.
are operating within the expected range. Non-
random long-term drift in control carpet read-
(e) Switch the power supply off for a
12. Precision and Bias ings should be investigated to determine the moment and observe the electrometer re-
nature of the changes that have taken place sponse. Most commercial high-voltage
12.1 Users of data from AATCC and corrective action taken.
TM134 should be aware that large varia- units have a built-in grounding of the out-
13.6 If required, use National Fire Protec- put when turned off for safety reasons. If
tions in results have been noted during in- tion Association Test Method 99 or ESD/EOS
terlab and intralab testing. Preliminary STM 7.1 to measure resistance. For products the unit in use does not show grounding
evaluation of the round robin test results, intended to be installed in electrostatic-dis- when switched off, a properly shielded
in the range of 0-6 kV, shows that differ- charge-sensitive areas (i.e., electronics com- single pole, double throw switch must be
ences of less than approximately 0.5 kV ponent manufacturing or assembly areas), connected to the electrometer input so it

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
are not significant, and this must be con- several test methods developed by the Electro-
static Discharge Association (ESD Associa- can be quickly switched from high-volt-
sidered when comparing test results to age to ground.
tion) may be appropriate (ESD/EOS Standard
specification requirements. An initial Test Methods). (f) With a steady 3 kV reading on the
study on TM134 Static Protected Control 13.7 If the shoe soles or heels become per-
Carpet with shoes fitted with XS 664 P- electrometer (and recorder), switch the
manently contaminated by testing carpets with
HK Neolite soles (not AATCC TM134 topical antistats or yarn overfinishes, they
electrometer input to ground (see Section
sandals) produced a Step procedure aver- should then be resoled or discarded immedi- 5) and measure the time it takes the volt-
age voltage of 2.7 kV with a standard de- ately. The standard reference carpets recom- age reading to drop to 1.5 kV. This should
viation of 0.3 kV, based on data from mended in the method can be very helpful in be between 1-3 s.
seven test sites. determining when soles or heels are contami- A.1.2 Electrometer without a high-
nated, but these are also subject to contamina-
tion by contaminated shoes. Spare reference voltage power supply:
13. Notes carpets should be stocked in case of con- (a) Set up as for a standard carpet test
tamination carry-over when testing the shoe using a sample known to generate read-
13.1 AATCC TM134 sandals, both large condition. ing of 5 kV or over (AATCC TM134
and small sizes, suede leather, rubberized jute/
hair cushion carpet underlay and AATCC Static Unprotected Control Carpet).
TM134 Static Control Carpets (Protected and Appendix A (b) Have the operator proceed to walk
Unprotected) are available from AATCC, P.O. Damping Testing (or scuff) test normally and observe the
Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC electrometer reading.
27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919. A.1 Two methods to test the damping
549.8933; e-mail: ordering@ aatcc.org; web (c) When the reading reaches 5 kV or
are as follows: more, the operator should stop moving
site: www.aatcc.org. A.1.1 With a high-voltage power sup-
13.2 A suitable electrometer, (digital) or
ply capable of producing at least 3000 and watch the reading without touching
(analog), a 1000:1 voltage divider probe. This anything.
apparatus may require slight modification to volts:
(a) Set up the electrometer (and re- (d) When the voltage has leaked off
conform to requirements in 6.3.1.
13.3 Two methods for system damping test- corder, if available) for at least 3 kV max- enough to drop the reading to 3 kV, the
ing are outlined in Appendix A. imum range (10 kV preferred). operator will ground the electrometer in-
13.4 Handheld blowing-fan, balanced high- (b) Connect the power supply high- put (touch probe tip to ground, use a
voltage ionizers are available from a number voltage output to the electrometer input jumper wire, or a wire and switch combi-
of distributors under various names including to the divider probe.
ionized-air blowers. These are typically 4"
nation). Record the time it takes the read-
(c) Check the power line grounds, and ing to drop to 1.5 kV.
fans with integral electronics and high-voltage if in doubt, run a line from both the elec-
ion-emission points. (e) This procedure should be repeated
trometer and power supply ground termi-
13.5 The test laboratory must maintain a five times or more, and the tests averaged
record of AATCC Static Control Carpet re- nals to a common ground.
(d) After allowing the electrometer to smooth out reading inaccuracies.
sults, and generate suitable Control Charts.
The Upper Control Limit and Lower Control and power supply to warm up per the A.1.3 The decay to 50% of the original
Limit Values established through this analysis manufacturer’s specifications, adjust the signal has been selected as a convenience
to simplify the readout of the electrometer
and recorder. The 1-3 s delay corresponds
to a time constant (t = 1/e) 1.4-4.3 s.

Appendix B
Damping Techniques
B.1 For electrometers with recorders,
the preferred method of adjustment of re-
sponse time is a filter network between
electrometer and recorder. Details of how
to select a network can be found in elec-
tronic handbooks under integrating or
low pass filter headings.
B.2 An electrometer with an analog
display often has a built-in response in
the desired range. Modification of a non-
complying unit should be referred to the
Fig. 1—Typical chart trace indicating maximum voltage. manufacturer or an electronics engineer.

262 AATCC TM134-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM135-2018t

Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics

after Home Laundering
Developed in 1970 by AATCC Commit- mension of the specimen. ters, eighths or tenths of an inch.
tee RA42; reaffirmed 1973, 2000; 3.2 growth, n.—a dimensional change 5.8.2 Tape or ruled template marked
revised 1978, 1987, 1995, 2001, 2003 resulting in an increase of length or width directly in percent dimensional change to
(with title change), 2004, 2010, 2012, of a specimen. 0.5% or smaller increment (see 12.3).
2014, 2015, January 2018, November 3.3 laundering, n.—of textile materi- 5.8.3 Digital Imaging System (see 12.4).
2018; editorially revised 1982, 1985, als, a process intended to remove soils
1989, 1990, 1991, 1996, 1997, 2006, and/or stains by treatment (washing) with 6. Test Specimens
2008, 2016, June 2018; editorially an aqueous detergent solution and nor-
revised and reaffirmed 1992. Related to mally including rinsing, extraction and 6.1 Sampling and Preparation.
ISO 3759. drying. 6.1.1 Samples from which dimensional
3.4 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional change specimens are to be taken should
change resulting in a decrease in the be representative of the fabric processing
Foreword length or width of a specimen. stage, finishing treatment, research lab
Standard laundering procedures remain trial, pallet, lot or end-product stage.
4. Safety Precautions 6.1.2 Fabrics that are distorted in their
consistent to allow valid comparison of
results. Standard procedures represent, NOTE: These safety precautions are unlaundered state may give deceptive di-
but may not exactly replicate, current for information purposes only. The pre- mensional change results when laundered
consumer practices, which vary over time cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- by any procedure. In such cases, it is rec-
and among households. Alternate laun- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ommended that specimens not be taken
dering procedures and machine parame- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use from any distorted area of a fabric sam-
ters may be found in AATCC LP1, Labo- safe and proper techniques in handling ple.
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.1.3 Tubular knitted samples should
Machine Washing (see 12.3), AATCC turers MUST be consulted for specific be slit and handled flat in a single layer.
LP2, Laboratory Procedure for Home details such as material safety data sheets Only circular knitted fabrics produced on
Laundering: Hand Washing (see 12.3) and other manufacturer’s recommenda- body-width machines are to be used as
and ISO 6330, Textiles — Domestic tions. All OSHA standards and rules specimens in their tubular form. Circular
washing and drying procedures for textile must also be consulted and followed. knitted fabrics made on body-width ma-
testing (see 12.10). 4.1 Good laboratory practices should chines are ones to be used in garments
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all with no side seams. Body-width tubular
1. Purpose and Scope laboratory areas. circular knitted garments and seamless
4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. garments (knit-to-wear) should be tested
1.1 This test method is intended for the Care should be taken to prevent exposure according to AATCC TM150, Dimen-
determination of dimensional (length and to skin and eyes. sional Changes of Garments after Home
width) changes of fabrics when subjected 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- Laundering (see 12.3).
to home laundering procedures. Four dations should be followed when operat- 6.1.4 Specimens tested in accordance
washing temperatures, three agitation cy- ing laboratory testing equipment. with AATCC TM135 may also be used
cles, and four drying procedures provide for testing for skewness change in accor-
standard parameters to represent common dance with Options 1 or 2 in AATCC
home care options. 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) TM179, Skew Change in Fabrics After
1.2 This test is applicable to all fabrics 5.1 Standard washing machine (see Ta- Home Laundering (see 12.3).
suitable for home laundering. ble I, 12.2). 6.1.5 If fraying of specimens is ex-
5.2 Standard tumble dryer (see Table pected in laundering, refer to 12.6.
2. Principle III, 12.2) or facilities for drip/line drying. 6.1.6 Prior to marking, condition test
2.1 Pairs of benchmarks are applied to 5.3 Conditioning facilities and condi- specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,
the fabric before laundering. The distance tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- Standard Practice for Conditioning and
between each pair is measured before rated shelves (see 12.3). Testing Textiles (see 12.5). (Use condi-
laundering and remeasured after a speci- 5.4 Balance with at least 5.0-kg or tions indicated in Table 1 for Textiles,
fied number of standard laundering cy- 10.0-lb capacity. general. Estimate conditioning time as in-
cles. Percent change is calculated. A neg- 5.5 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference dicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-
ative value indicates shrinkage; a positive Detergent (powder, with brightener, see ber content.) Lay each test specimen flat,
value indicates growth. A value close to 12.3). separately, on a screen or perforated shelf
zero indicates little or no change. 5.6 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type of a conditioning rack.
3 (see Table IV). 6.1.7 Lay the sample on a flat surface.
3. Terminology 5.7 Indelible ink marking pen (see Do not allow any section of the sample to
12.3) for use with suitable rule, tape, hang over the edge of the work table. Us-
3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- marking template or other marking de- ing a template for the selected test size,
neric term for changes in length or width vice (see 12.3). Sewing thread may be mark specimens parallel to the selvage or
of a fabric specimen subjected to speci- used for making benchmarks. fabric length direction. Avoid use of the
fied conditions. The change is usually ex- 5.8 Measuring devices. sample area within ten percent of the
pressed as a percentage of the initial di- 5.8.1 Tape or rule marked in millime- sample width. Specimens should be taken

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM135-2018t 263
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
(2.5 in.) from all test specimen edges. tional.
Pairs of benchmarks in the same direction 6.3 Original Measurements and Speci-
must be spaced approximately 125 mm men Size. Make all measurements with-
(5 in.) apart (see Fig. 2 and 12.7). out tension on the same surface used for
6.2.2 Option 2: 460-mm (18.0-in.) marking.
benchmarks. Mark each 610 × 610 mm 6.3.1 Specimen size and benchmarks dis-
(24.0 × 24.0 in.) test specimen with three tances used must be indicated in the report.
460-mm (18.0-in.) pairs of benchmarks 6.3.2 Dimensional change results may
Selvage

parallel to the test specimen length and not be comparable when different speci-
three 460-mm (18.0-in.) pairs of bench- men sizes, different benchmark lengths,
marks parallel to the test specimen width. different number of specimens, or differ-
Each benchmark must be at least 65 mm ent number of benchmarks are used.
Fig. 1—Diagram for cutting
(2.5 in.) from all test specimen edges. 6.3.3 To improve the accuracy and pre-
fabric specimens.
Pairs of benchmarks in the same direc- cision of the dimensional change calcula-
tions must be spaced approximately 230 tions based on the benchmarks applied to
mm (9 in.) apart. the fabrics as instructed in 6.2, measure
from areas with different lengthwise and 6.2.3 Narrow Fabrics. and record the distance between each pair
widthwise yarns (see Fig. 1). Identify the 6.2.3.1 For test specimens greater than of benchmarks with suitable tape or rule
length direction of the specimens before 125 mm (5 in.) and less than 380 mm (15 to nearest millimeter, eight or tenth of an
cutting them out of the sample. When in.) wide, take full width of test fabrics inch. This is measurement A. In case of
possible, three specimens from each fab- and cut each specimen 380 mm (15 in.) narrow fabrics less than 380 mm (15 in.)
ric should be used. One or two specimens long. Mark the length as in 6.2.1. Mea- wide, measure and record width if width
may be used when insufficient fabric surement of the width is optional. measurement will be used. If using a cali-
sample is available. 6.2.3.2 For test specimens 25-125 mm brated template for marking and measur-
6.2 Marking. Mark specimens without (1-5 in.) wide, take full width of test fab- ing in percent dimensional change di-
tension on a flat, smooth horizontal sur- rics and cut each specimen 380 mm (15 rectly, an initial measurement is not
face. in.) long. Use only two pairs of 250-mm needed.
6.2.1 Option 1: 250-mm (10.0-in.) (10-in.) benchmarks parallel to the length.
benchmarks. Mark each 380 × 380 mm Measurement of the width is optional. 7. Laundering Procedure
(15 × 15 in.) test specimen with three 6.2.3.3 For test specimens less than 25 7.1 Washing.
250-mm (10-in.) pairs of benchmarks mm (1 in.) in width, take full width of test 7.1.1 Select washing conditions for
parallel to the test specimen length and fabrics and cut each specimen 380 mm testing from Table I. Set washing ma-
three 250 mm (10 in.) pairs of bench- (15 in.) long. Use only one pair of 250- chine controls to generate the selected cy-
marks parallel to the test specimen width. mm (10-in.) benchmarks parallel to the cle parameters.
Each benchmark must be at least 65 mm length. Measurement of the width is op- 7.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
of all specimens in the sample, plus
enough laundering ballast pieces to make
a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ±
0.2 lb).
5 in.
7.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
(125 mm)
machine to fill to specified water level.
W1 7.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
Standard Reference Detergent to washing
machine as directed by washing machine
manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
(125 mm)

is added directly to wash water, agitate

5 in.

L1 L2 L3 briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi-

tation before adding wash load.
7.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens
and ballast), distributing evenly around
(250 mm)

center agitator. Restart wash cycle.

(380 mm)

10 in.

7.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried

15 in.

W2
(drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
before the water begins to drain from the
final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
(A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
low washing to proceed through the final
spin cycle.
2.5 in. 7.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
(65 mm) rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
W3 taking care to minimize distortion. Pro-
ceed to appropriate drying procedure.
2.5 in. 7.2 Drying.
(65 mm) 7.2.1 Select drying conditions from Ta-
ble II.
7.2.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
Fig. 2—Diagram for placing benchmarks on fabric specimens. in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

264 AATCC TM135-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.9)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

Table II—Standard Drying Conditions Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
(A) Tumble Dry Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
ture control to generate the selected cycle Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
exhaust temperature (see Table III). Al-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave

low the dryer to run until the load is fully Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
dry. Remove specimens immediately. Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
7.2.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
specimen by two corners, with the fabric Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
length in the vertical direction. Allow
specimens to hang in still air at room
temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F) benchmarks. scale and record the percent dimensional
until dry. Do not blow air directly on 7.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures ap- change directly. If using a digital imaging
specimens as it may cause distortion. propriate to the fibers in the fabric being system, follow manufacturer’s instruc-
7.2.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- ironed. See AATCC TM133, Test tions.
ping wet specimen by two corners, with Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Hot 8.3 The wrinkles in most fabrics flatten
the fabric length in the vertical direction. Pressing, Table I, Safe Ironing Tempera- sufficiently under pressure of a measur-
Allow specimens to hang in still air at ture Guide (see 12.3). Exert the minimum ing instrument at the time of measure-
room temperature not greater than 26°C pressure necessary to remove wrinkles. ment not to cause measurement bias.
(78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly 7.4.3 Due to the extremely high vari-
on specimens as it may cause distortion. ability of hand ironing procedures per-
7.2.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each 9. Calculation and Interpretation
formed by individual operators (no stan-
specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- dard test method exists for hand ironing 9.1 Calculation.
rated surface, removing wrinkles without procedures), the reproducibility of di- 9.1.1 If measurements were made di-
distorting or stretching it. Allow speci- mensional change results after hand iron- rectly in percent dimensional change, av-
mens to rest in still air at room tempera- ing has been found to be extremely poor. erage the measurements in each direction
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until Consequently, caution is advised when made on the specimens after the first,
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- comparing dimensional change results af- third, or other specified number of wash-
mens as it may cause distortion. ter laundering and hand ironing, reported ing and drying cycles. Calculate length
7.2.6 For all drying methods, allow by different operators. and width averages separately to the
specimens to dry completely before 7.4.4 After ironing, condition test spec- nearest 0.1%.
washing again. imens as described in 6.1.6. 9.1.2 If measurements were made to
7.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and the nearest millimeter or eight or tenth of
drying procedures for a total of 3 com- an inch, calculate the dimensional change
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of 8. Measurement
after the first and third or other specified
cycles. 8.1 After conditioning, lay each test washing and drying cycle using equation
7.3 Conditioning. specimen without tension on the same 1:
7.3.1 After the final drying cycle is surface used for marking and measuring
complete, condition test specimens as de- in 6.2 and 63. Average% DC = 100 (B – A)/A (Eq. 1)
scribed in 6.1.6. 8.2 Measure and record the distance where:
7.4 Ironing between each pair of benchmarks to the DC = Average dimensional change
7.4.1 If the specimens are extremely nearest millimeter, eighth or tenth of an A = Average original dimension
wrinkled and the consumer would AL- inch. This is measurement B. If using a B = Average dimension after laun-
WAYS expect to iron a garment made scale calibrated in percent dimensional dering
from the fabric, test specimens may be change, measure each benchmark to
hand ironed prior to re-measurement of nearest 0.5% or smallest increment on the Both the average original and average

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM135-2018t 265
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
final dimensions are the averages of the ification of the standard method (see dard parameters for this load size. In addition,
measurements in each direction made on 12.9). dimensional change results obtained with the
all test specimens. Calculate length and 10.2 Report for each direction: alternate load size may not be equal to those
width averages separately to the nearest obtained with a standard load size.
10.2.1 Direction measured, i.e., length 12.3 Materials or drawings are available
0.1% (see 12.8). or width. from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri-
9.1.3 A final measurement smaller 10.2.2 Average dimensional change, to angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141;
than the original measurement results in a the nearest 0.1%, with a minus sign (-) fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@
negative dimensional change, which is for shrinkage or a plus (+) sign for aatcc.org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
shrinkage. A final measurement larger growth. 12.4 A digital imaging system may be used
than the original measurement results in a 10.2.3 Number of measurements (de- as a measuring device in place of the pre-
positive dimensional change, which is fault is 9: 3 measurements on each of 3 scribed manual measurement devices if it is
growth. established that its accuracy is equivalent to
specimens). the manual devices.
9.2 Interpretation. 10.2.4 Distance between original 12.5 Available from ASTM International,
9.2.1 If the dimensional change after benchmarks, i.e., 250 mm (Option 1) or 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
one full laundering cycle as calculated in 460 mm (Option 2). 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
9.1, is within a specification previously 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
agreed on, continue test procedures as di- 12.6 If excessive fraying occurs in launder-
11. Precision and Bias
rected in 7.1-7.4 until an agreed upon ing, specimen edges may be pinked or slashed.
number of cycles has been completed. 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test Sewing or over-edging a specimen is not rec-
9.2.2 If the dimensional change after method has not been established. Until a ommended as it may influence actual dimen-
one washing, drying, and, if used, hand sional change results. However, in the case
precision statement is generated for this
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1 exceeds where AATCC TM124 (Test Method for
test method, use standard statistical tech- Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics after Re-
a specification previously agreed on, ter- niques in making any comparisons of test peated Home Laundering) and AATCC
minate the test. results for either within-laboratory or be- TM135 are performed on the same specimens,
tween-laboratory averages. some woven fabric constructions may require
10. Report 11.2 Bias. Dimensional changes in au- the specimen edges to be sewn or over-edged
tomatic home laundering of fabrics can to prevent severe raveling that could cause en-
10.1 Report for each sample tested: be defined only in terms of a test method. tanglement in washing or drying, and there-
10.1.1 A description or identification There is no independent method for de- fore influence the assessment of both
of the sample. dimensional change and smoothness.
termining the true value. As a means of 12.7 When using the same specimens for
10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using estimating this property, the method has
AATCC TM135-2018t. AATCC TM135 and AATCC TM179, extend
no known bias. corner markings to form right angles.
10.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1 12.8 If information on the dimensional
or Type 3. 12. Notes change variability within or between speci-
10.1.4 Number of laundering cycles mens is desired, calculate dimensional change
(default is 3 cycles, see 9.2). 12.1 For potential equipment information based on the individual pairs of benchmarks
10.1.5 Laundering conditions, includ- pertaining to this test method, please visit the for within-specimen data or based on the aver-
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem- online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. age of the three pair of benchmarks for be-
perature, drying procedure and tumble aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility tween specimen data.
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha- of listing equipment and materials sold by its 12.9 The laundering temperatures and other
Corporate members, but AATCC does not parameters listed in this test method are stan-
numeric designations may be used if they qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
are clearly understood by all parties. For tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- most lab procedures, they represent, but may
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal als meets the requirements in its test methods. not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
dry cycle. tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard among households; lab practices must be con-
10.1.6 If fabrics were distorted or wrin- parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
kled in their original state. or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research laundering equipment or conditions other than
10.1.7 If fabrics were hand ironed. Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919. those specifically listed in this test method are
549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: used, they must be described in detail and
10.1.8 Any modifications of the test [email protected]. An alternate load size noted as a modification of the standard
method. If laundering equipment or con- was described in previous versions of this method. Alternate laundering conditions are
ditions other than those specifically listed method (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g outlined in AATCC LP1, AATCC LP2 and
in the test method were used, they must AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent), ISO 6330.
be described in detail and noted as a mod- but no machine is reported to meet the stan- 12.10 Available from ISO, www.iso.org.

266 AATCC TM135-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM137-2002e(2012)e2

Test Method for Rug Back Staining on Vinyl Tile

Developed in 1972 by AATCC Commit- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all fixed for 24 h at room temperature.
tee RA57; reaffirmed 1973, 1989, 2000, laboratory areas. 7.8 Do not permit movement of rug
2007, 2012; editorially revised 1974, 4.2 Observe wringer safety, especially specimen or tile after applying weight as
1986, 1991, 2001, 2010, 2013, 2019; at the nip point. The safety recommenda- it can affect test results.
revised 1983, 2002; editorially revised tions provided by the wringer manufac- 7.9 Remove weight and rug specimen
and reaffirmed 1995. turer should be followed. and let tiles condition at room tempera-
ture face up for 30 min.
5. Apparatus and Materials 7.10 Wash tile with AATCC Detergent
1. Purpose and Scope #171 solution. Dry with toweling.
5.1 Two 76 × 76 mm (3 × 3 in.) 100%
1.1 This test method determines the de- vinyl tiles, solid white and smooth sur- 8. Evaluation
gree of color transferred from the back or faced (see 11.1).
face surface of colored rugs to vinyl tile. 5.2 Laboratory wringer. 8.1 Evaluate the degree of color trans-
1.2 The wet testing in this method is a 5.3 Weight, with mass of 0.91 kg (2.0 ferred from the rug backing or face fiber
means of acceleration and has been found to lb) (see 11.2). on to the face of the vinyl tile by com-
correlate with both dry and wet in-service 5.4 Rating Scales. parison with AATCC EP2, AATCC EP8
use. 5.4.1 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- or Instrumental Assessment of Degree of
ference Scale (AATCC EP 8) (see 11.3). Staining (AATCC EP12), and record the
2. Principle 5.4.2 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC numerical rating that corresponds to the
EP2) (see 11.3). appropriate one on either of them (see
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

2.1 A rug specimen is wet out and 5.5 Distilled water. 11.3).
placed between two pieces of tile and 5.6 AATCC Detergent #171 (see 11.5). 8.1.1 Where fringe or binding tape is a
subjected to a weighted load for 24 h at factor, color transference to the vinyl tile
room temperature. can also be evaluated from the tile which
6. Test Specimens
2.2 Color transferred to the tile is as- was used as the cover in the test assembly.
sessed by a comparison with the AATCC 6.1 A 51 × 51 mm (2 × 2 in.) specimen 8.2 Evaluate the color transfer at the
9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale is cut from a representative sample of the most severe area on the tile.
(AATCC EP8) or Gray Scale for Staining rug, binding tape or fringe. It is recom-
(AATCC EP2). mended that rugs having multiple colors 9. Report
or fibers be tested in areas representative
3. Terminology of each. 9.1 Report the grade determined in 8.1.
9.2 Report the color transference deter-
3.1 colorant staining, n.—the unin- 7. Procedure mined for rug back and face. As an op-
tended pickup of colorant by a substrate tion, the color transference may be re-
due to (1) exposure to a colored or con- 7.1 Prewash tile with AATCC Detergent ported for fringe or binding tape.
taminated liquid medium, or (2) direct #171 prepared according to the directions 9.3 Report whether Gray Scale for
contact with dyed or pigmented material, supplied (see 11.5.1). Dry with toweling. Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic
from which colorant transfers by sublima- 7.2 Completely wet out the test speci- Transference Scale was used for evaluat-
tion or mechanical action (as in crocking). men with distilled water. ing staining (see 11.4).
3.2 rug, n.—a textile floor covering of 7.3 Pass the test specimen between
limited area which is complete in itself squeeze rolls (wringer) such that a pickup 10. Precision and Bias (see 11.6)
and is intended for use as a partial cover- of 40-60% is obtained.
ing of a floor or another floor covering. 7.4 Place the rug specimen back side 10.1 Precision. A preliminary intra-
3.3 rug back, n.—(1) that part of a rug down on the face side of one of the tiles. laboratory study was run in 1999 with a
normally in contact with the floor; (2) the 7.5 Cover the test specimen with the single laboratory with four materials,
underside of a rug as opposed to the use other tile, face side down on rug face pile. with a total of eight test results for each
surface. 7.6 Apply a 0.91 kg (2.0 lb) mass to material. Refer to Table I for within-
sandwiched test assembly (see 11.2). laboratory precision.
4. Safety Precautions 7.7 Allow test assembly to remain 10.2 Bias. Rug back staining, on vinyl
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Table I—Summary of Precision Parameters
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use Repeatability 95%
safe and proper techniques in handling Observations Overall Standard Deviation Repeatability Limit
materials in this test method. Manufac- Material* Each Average Average (within-laboratory) (within-laboratory)
turers MUST be consulted for specific A 8 3.4 0.42 0.35
details such as material safety data sheets B 8 4.1 0.35 0.30
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- C 8 3.4 0.32 0.27
tions. All OSHA standards and rules D 8 2.9 0.32 0.27
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should *Material A-Tan Cotton Rug; Material B-Pink Cotton Rug; Material C-Blue Nylon Rug; Material D-Red Nylon Rug

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM137-2002e(2012)e2 267
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tile, can be defined only in terms of a test 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: (b) Sodium stearate
method. There is no independent method +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: (c) Dodecylbenzene sulfonate
for determining the true value. As a [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. (d) Sodium bicarbonate
means of estimating this property, the 11.4 It has been noted that different ratings
(e) Sodium tripolyphosphate
may result depending upon whether the Gray
method has no known bias. Scale for Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chro- 11.6 The precision of this test method is de-
matic Transference Scale is used for the evalu- pendent on the combined variability of the
ation. It is, therefore, important to report material being tested, the test method itself,
11. Notes and the evaluation procedure utilized.
which scale was used.
11.1 AATCC Standard Vinyl Tile 137-2 11.5 AATCC Detergent #171 available 11.6.1 The precision statement shown in
available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri- Section 10 was developed from results ob-
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; tained by visual evaluation (AATCC EP2 or
919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@ AATCC EP8).
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. aatcc org; web site: www.aatcc.org. 11.6.2 It is expected that the use of instru-
11.2 A laboratory beaker filled with suffi- 11.5.1 Dilution: 3.0-4.5 g/L. mental evaluation (AATCC EP12) will result
cient water is satisfactory. 11.5.2 Contents of detergent: in greater precision than that obtained from vi-
11.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box (a) Sodium metasilicate pentahydrate sual evaluation.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

268 AATCC TM137-2002e(2012)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM138-2000e(2014)e

Test Method for Cleaning: Washing of Textile Floor Coverings

Developed in 1972 by AATCC Commit- 4. Safety Precautions 7. Procedure
tee RA57 (as shampooing procedure);
revised 1978, 1982, 1995 (to cleaning NOTE: These safety precautions are 7.1 Thoroughly wet out each specimen
procedure with title change), 2000; edi- for information purposes only. The pre- by soaking for 1 min in clean, tap water
torially revised 1986, 1998, 2008, cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- at 50 ± 3°C. Extract excess water by
2019; editorially revised and reaffirmed dures and are not intended to be all inclu- passing through a laboratory wringer or
1987; reaffirmed 2005, 2010, 2014. sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use hydro-extractor.
safe and proper techniques in handling 7.2 Secure the specimen to the floor by
materials in this test method. Manufac- a suitable means (double-stick tape) or
turers MUST be consulted for specific use the scrub block (see Fig. 1) to secure
1. Purpose and Scope details such as material safety data sheets during the hand scrubbing process.
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
1.1 This test method is a laboratory tions. All OSHA standards and rules 7.3 For every 645 mm2 of pile surface,
procedure designed to simulate changes must also be consulted and followed. apply 0.30 mL of the 1.0% solution of so-
that occur in washing of a textile floor dium lauryl sulfate preheated to 50 ± 3°C
4.1 Good laboratory practices should to the face fibers. For example, a 200 ×
covering during cleaning. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
1.2 This method is recommended only 200 mm specimen would require approx-
laboratory areas. imately 20 mL of this cleaning solution.
for small specimens with dimensions not
4.2 All chemicals should be handled Hand scrub the entire surface of the pile
exceeding the capacity of commercially-
with care. in specimen with the scrub brush, using 5
available laboratory equipment.
1.3 This test method may be used on 4.3 Eye protection should be used full strokes in each direction. A full
soiled, as well as unsoiled, textile floor when mixing, handling or applying the stroke implies motion forward and back-
coverings. detergent and detergent solutions. ward in this case. Scrub 5 strokes along
1.4 This wet cleaning procedure can be 4.4 Gloves or protective hand cream one dimension and repeat with 5 strokes
used for the evaluation of: are recommended for handling detergents across the specimen.
– wetfastness durability and perma- and solutions. 7.4 Thoroughly rinse each specimen
nency of antimicrobial properties 4.5 Observe operating procedures and with clean tap water at 50 ± 3°C. Remove
– colorfastness behavior precautions by the manufacturer of the excess water by squeezing through a lab
– permanency of finishes and other extraction machine. Liquid under pres- wringer or hydro-extracting.
topical treatments to the pile of tex- sure and high vacuum, can cause exces-
7.5 Place each specimen in the oven
tile floor coverings before, during or sive splashing of liquids and/or hose
(see 5.4) set at 105 ± 5°C. Do not remove
after manufacturing “kick back.”
specimen until dry.
– cleanability 4.6 Special care should be used at the
nip point of the wringer. Follow the 7.6 Cool down the specimen after
– dimensional stability drying before test work is allowed to
1.5 This procedure may also be used safety guidelines of the manufacturer.
proceed. Conditioning at standard labora-
for the removal of soil or extraneous mat- tory temperature and relative humidity is
ter from specimens of textile floor cover- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 10.1) recommended. Also, a Scrub Block can
ings to prepare them for testing. be used to secure the specimens during
5.1 Cleaning Agent: Sodium lauryl sul- the hand scrubbing process (see 10.3 and
fate type of surfactant. AATCC Standard Fig. 1).
2. Principle Detergent (see AATCC TM171, Test
2.1 A specimen is washed by hand Method for Carpets: Cleaning of; Hot
scrubbing using a surfactant cleaning Water Extraction) can be used. A 1.0% 8. Evaluation
agent solution, rinsed and dried. solution of this surfactant should have a
pH of 8.0 ± 0.5 (see 10.2). 8.1 This is a washing procedure which
5.2 Scrub Brush: A brush with stiff ny- is not evaluated.
3. Terminology lon or polypropylene bristles approxi- 8.1.1 Specimens cleaned according to
mately 25 mm long. The width of the this procedure are suitable substrates for
3.1 carpet, n.—all textile floor cover- brush should be approximately 50 mm; evaluating the effect of washing on color-
ings not designated as rugs. the length preferably no less than one di- fastness, cleanability, dimensional change
3.2 textile floor covering, n.—an arti- mensional length of the test specimen, and the durability of finishes, topicals and
cle having a use-surface composed of 200 mm. antimicrobial treatments. State that the
textile material and generally used for 5.3 Extraction Unit: A laboratory test specimens were cleaned according to
covering floors. wringer, padder or hydro-extractor. AATCC TM138. Report the number of
3.3 use-surface, n.—of textile floor 5.4 Drying Unit: Circulating air-type wash cycles (see 7.1, 7.2, 7.3 and 7.4)
covering, the part of a textile floor cover- oven recommended. performed.
ing directly exposed to foot traffic.
3.4 washing, n.—in testing textile
floor coverings, a specific wet cleaning 6. Test Specimens 9. Precision and Bias
process involving the use of detergent
and scrub brush to remove soil and/or 6.1 Textile floor covering samples, fin- 9.1 Precision and Bias statements are
extraneous matter residing in the pile ished with back coating, approximately not applicable because data are not gener-
fibers. 200 × 200 mm square. ated by this test method.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM138-2000e(2014)e 269
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10. Notes
10.1 For potential equipment information
pertaining to this test method, please visit
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
tify that any of the listed equipment or
materials meets the requirements in its test
methods.
10.2 AATCC Standard Detergent 171 can
be used. Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
10.3 Some laboratories rely on special jigs
to hold the 200 × 200 mm square specimen in
place during the scrubbing process. A sche-
matic of a Scrub Block designed to hold carpet
specimens during the scrubbing process is in-
cluded as Fig. 1.

Fig. 1—Scrub block.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

270 AATCC TM138-2000e(2014)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM140-2018e

Test Method for Dye and Pigment Migration

in a Pad-Dry Process
Developed in 1974 by AATCC Commit- 4. Safety Precautions 5.2 The test method may be used to
tee RA87; reaffirmed 1976, 1977, 1980, compare the migration propensity of dyes
2006, 2011; editorially revised and re- NOTE: These safety precautions are and the effect on migration of different
affirmed 1985, 1990, 2001; editorially for information purposes only. The pre- types of migration inhibitors, thickeners
revised 1987, 1991, 1998, 2010, 2019 cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- and electrolyte.
(with title change); revised 1992 (with dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.3 The test method may be used to
title change), 1996 (with title change), sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use evaluate a pad liquor with which migra-
2018. Technically equivalent to ISO safe and proper techniques in handling tion has been found on a continuous dye
105-Z06. materials in this test method. Manufac- range. The pad liquor composition may
turers MUST be consulted for specific be modified by varying the amount or
details such as material safety data sheets type of migration inhibitors and tested in

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
1. Purpose and Scope and other manufacturer’s recommenda- the laboratory prior to the application on
tions. All OSHA standards and rules the range. The colorant concentrations,
1.1 This test method provides a means must also be consulted and followed.
of assessing the migration propensity of a substrate and wet pickup should be the
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices. same in the laboratory as used on the
pad liquor system containing dyes or pig- Wear safety glasses in all laboratory areas.
ments, subsequently referred to as colo- range. It is then possible to correlate the
4.2 Observe padder safety. Normal test results with the improvement experi-
rants, and which may also contain differ- safeguards on padders should not be re-
ent types and amounts of migration enced in practice.
moved. Ensure that there is an adequate
inhibitors. guard at the nip point. A foot-operated
1.2 When drying conditions are not 6. Apparatus and Materials
kickoff is recommended.
constant and/or uniform, uneven migra- 4.3 Handle all chemicals with care. 6.1 Laboratory padder.
tion may occur, causing shade variations Use chemical goggles or face shield, 6.2 Glass plate, 600 × 350 mm (Proce-
during a run, or shade differences be- impervious gloves and an impervious dure A).
tween the face and back, or between side apron when preparing buffered mock 6.3 Watch glasses (90 mm), 22 mm
and center of the fabric. dyebaths with concentrated acids and arch punch.
sodium hydroxide. 6.4 Aluminum rings: 110 mm outer di-
2. Principle 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should ameter, 80 mm inner diameter and 1 mm
2.1 Fabric impregnated with colorant be located nearby and a self-contained thickness (Procedure B).
alone, or with colorant and auxiliaries, is breathing apparatus should be readily 6.5 Clips (Procedure B).
dried while partially covered with a available for emergency use. 6.6 Laboratory dryer or oven (Proce-
watch glass permitting differential drying 4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this dure B).
and, therefore, migration to occur. The procedure must be controlled at or below 6.7 Gray Scale for Color Change
degree of migration is evaluated by visual levels set by governmental authorities (AATCC EP1) (for visual evaluation)
examination, or by reflectance measure- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health (see 13.2).
ments of the covered and uncovered Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 6.8 Spectrophotometer (AATCC EP7)
areas. posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR (see 13.2).
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 6.9 Fabric swatches (see 13.3 and 8.2.1
3. Terminology for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- or 8.3.1).
can Conference of Governmental Indus-
3.1 colorant, n.—a material which is trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
applied to a substrate for the express pur- 7. Test Specimen
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
pose of changing the transmittance or re- weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short 7.1 Colorant(s) in required concentra-
flectance of visible light. term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and tion(s).
NOTE: Dyes, pigments, tints and opti- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 7.2 Migration inhibitors, thickening
cal brighteners are examples of colorants; as a general guide for air contaminant ex- agents and other auxiliaries (e.g., electro-
soils are not colorants. posure which should be met (see 13.1). lyte for reactive dyes) may be used as ap-
3.2 dye, n.—a colorant applied to or propriate.
formed in a substrate, via the molecularly 5. Uses and Limitations
dispersed state, which exhibits some de- 8. Procedure
gree of permanence. 5.1 This method offers two alternative
3.3 migration, n.—in textile process- procedures: 8.1 Pad Bath Preparation.
ing, testing, storage and use, movement 5.1.1 Procedure A. The fabric/glass as- 8.1.1 Prepare a pad bath appropriate to
of a chemical, dye or pigment between sembly (see 8.2) is allowed to dry at the colorant(s) with or without a migra-
fibers within a substrate or between sub- room temperature. The procedure is very tion inhibitor.
strates due to capillary forces (see also simple, but time consuming (overnight). 8.2 Procedure A: Drying in Air at
transfer). 5.1.2 Procedure B. The fabric/glass as- Room Temperature.
3.4 pigment, n.—a colorant in particu- sembly (see 8.3) is dried in a laboratory 8.2.1 Pad a 150 × 300 mm swatch of
late form which is insoluble in a sub- dryer or oven, either with or without air fabric at 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 4°F). Other pad-
strate, but which can be dispersed in the circulation. This procedure is faster, but ding temperatures may be used, but must
substrate to modify its color. somewhat more complicated. then be stated in the report. Generally,

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM140-2018e 271
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
use a wet pickup of 60%, but adjust as
necessary to simulate wet pickup of a
particular fabric to be run on a particular
range (see 13.4).
8.2.2 Immediately after padding place
the fabric on a flat glass plate. Place the
watch glass on the fabric as shown in Fig.
1 and leave the fabric to dry at room tem-
perature. Record the room temperature
and relative humidity during drying.
8.2.3 Remove the watch glass.
8.3 Procedure B: Pin Frame Oven Dry-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ing.
8.3.1 Pad a 110 × 220 mm swatch of
fabric at 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 4°F). Other pad-
ding temperatures may be used, but must Fig. 1—Layout of apparatus for inducing colorant migration using procedure A.
then be stated in the report. Generally, use
a wet pickup of 60%, but adjust as neces-
sary to simulate wet pickup of a particular
fabric to be run on a particular range (see
13.4).
8.3.2 Immediately after padding mount
the fabric taut on a pin frame, and sand-
wich it between two watch glasses, one
on the fabric face and one directly under-
neath on the back of the fabric. Hold the
watch glasses in place with two alumi-
num rings and clamps as shown in Fig. 2.
8.3.3 Dry the fabric horizontally at 100
± 2°C (212 ± 5°F) for approximately 7
min (or until dry) in a laboratory dryer or
oven, with or without air circulation.
8.3.4 Remove the watch glasses.

9. Gray Scale Evaluation

9.1 Reference the following evalua-
tion procedures.
9.1.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce-
dure for Gray Scale for Color Change.
9.2 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce-
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the
Change in Color of a Test Specimen.

10. Report
10.1 Report substrate, pad liquor com- Fig. 2—Layout of apparatus for inducing colorant migration using procedure B.
position, including dyes, chemicals, aux-
iliaries, etc. and wet pickup.
10.2 For Procedure A, report room 12. References 13.2 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
temperature and relative humidity during 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
drying. 12.1 Etters, J. N., Textile Chemist and +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
10.3 For Procedure B, report whether Colorist, Vol. 4, No. 6, 1972, p160. [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
dried with or without air circulation. 12.2 Etters, J. N., Modern Knitting Man- 13.3 For disperse dyes, vat dyes and pig-
agement, Vol. 51, No. 2, 1973, p24. ments, generally the preferred fabric is a 65/35
10.4 For visual examination, report as- polyester/cotton gabardine or heavy twill,
12.3 Gerber, H., Melliand Texblberichte,
sessment on a scale of 1-5 by reference to Vol. 53, No. 3, 1972, p335. heat-set, bleached and mercerized. For soluble
the Gray Scale for Color Change. 12.4 Lehmann, H., and Somm, F., Textile dyes with affinity to cellulose (e.g., reactive
10.5 For reflectance measurements, re- Praxis International, Vol. 28, No. 1, 1973, p52. dyes) a bleached and mercerized 100% cotton
port percent migration using the outer 12.5 Northern Piedmont Section, AATCC, gabardine or heavy twill should be used. How-
dyed area as reference. Textile Chemist and Colorist, Vol. 7, No. 11, ever, any other fabric intended for use on a
1975, p192. continuous dye range may be chosen.
11. Precision and Bias 12.6 Urbanik, A., and Etters, J. N., Textile 13.4 The desired wet pickup is obtained
Research Journal, Vol. 43, 1973, p657. by adjusting the pressure at the nip of the
11.1 Precision for this test method has pad rolls. Wet pickup is the weight gained
not been established. Until a precision by the substrate at ambient conditions after
13. Notes padding:
statement is generated for this test
method, use standard statistical tech- % wet pickup = 100 × (A/B – 1)
13.1 Available from Publications Office,
niques in making any comparisons of test ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper where:
results for either within-laboratory or Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. A = weight after padding
between-laboratory averages. 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. B = weight before padding

272 AATCC TM140-2018e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM141-2019

Test Method for Compatibility of Basic Dyes for Acrylic Fibers

Developed in 1974 by AATCC Commit- nents in a combination shade to exhaust ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
tee RA87; reaffirmed 1976, 1977, 1980, at similar rates, resulting in a buildup as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
1989, 2009, 2013; revised 1984, 2019; of shade that is constant, or nearly con- posure which should be met (see 12.2).
editorially revised 1985, 1988, 2008, stant, in hue throughout the dyeing pro-
2010; editorially revised and reaffirmed cess. 5. Uses and Limitations
1987, 1994, 1999, 2004. Technically 3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to
equivalent to ISO 105-Z03. a test specimen resulting from compari- 5.1 The test is valid only under the con-
son to a scale. ditions defined. Compatibility may be af-
fected by the presence of anionic sub-
Foreword 4. Safety Precautions stances—e.g., anionic surfactants or
anionic dyes—in the dyebath.
This test method is based on one first NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.2 The yellow and blue standard dyes
proposed by the Society of Dyers and for information purposes only. The pre- of compatibility grade 2.0 are not fully
Colourists (see 12.1). The standard dyes cautions are ancillary to the testing pro- compatible when applied in combina-
were chosen because: (a) they form two cedures and are not intended to be all in- tion. The differences observed are exag-
series encompassing the compatibility clusive. It is the user’s responsibility to gerated if wet-spun acrylic fibers are
behavior of nearly all basic dyes recom- use safe and proper techniques in han- used.
mended for acrylic fibers; (b) the dyes dling materials in this test method. Manu- 5.3 The test is one for compatibility
in each series are spaced to produce ap- facturers MUST be consulted for specific and not a measure of the extent to which
proximately equal visual effects; and (c) details such as material safety data sheets incompatibility may lead to unlevelness
the corresponding standard dyes from and other manufacturer’s recommenda- when combinations of basic dyes are ap-
both scales are compatible. tions. All OSHA standards and rules must plied to acrylic fibers.
also be consulted and followed. 5.4 Although some of the specified
1. Purpose and Scope 4.1 Good laboratory practices should be dyes are not in current commercial pro-
followed. Wear safety glasses in all labo- duction, the set of 10 dyes (50 g each), is
1.1 In the dyeing of acrylic fibers with ratory areas and a single- use dust respira- available for purchase by laboratories in-
basic dyes, the classic parameters—e.g., tor while handling powder dyes. terested in performing this method (see
the time of half-dyeing—of individual 4.2 All chemicals should be handled 12.3).
dyes do not give a true indication of their with care.
dyeing behavior in admixture with other 4.3 Use chemical goggles or face 6. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials
basic dyes. shield, impervious gloves and an impervi-
1.1.1 Since basic dyes show virtually ous apron during handling of concen- 6.1 Acrylic fiber, 30 samples (pieces of
no migration in acrylic fibers under nor- trated acetic acid. skeins) of equal weight.
mal dyeing conditions, compatibility is 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should 6.2 Dyeing apparatus, for dyeing at a
of major importance in selecting dye be located nearby and an organic vapor 40:1 liquor:goods ratio at the required
combinations with optimum level dyeing respiratory with full facepiece should be constant temperature.
behavior. readily available for emergency use. 6.3 Standard dyes, 5, yellow or blue
1.2 This test method determines the 4.5 The basic dyes listed in this method (see Table I and 12.3).
compatibility of a basic dye when applied belong to the following classes: 6.3.1 Use the dye scale (yellow or
to acrylics. blue) that shows the greatest difference
C.I. Basic Orange 42—Azo-methineazo
C.I. Basic Yellow 29—Methine
2. Principle C.I. Basic Yellow 28—Monoazo
C.I. Basic Yellow 15—Monoazo Table I—Standard Dye Scales
2.1 Compatibility of a basic dye is as-
sessed by determining its dyeing behavior C.I. Basic Orange 48—Azo Compatibility
in combination with each of the standard C.I. Basic Blue 69—Methine C.I. Basic Dye % owf Grade
dyes in a yellow or blue scale—which- C.I. Basic Blue 45—Anthraquinone
Yellow
ever shows the greatest difference in hue C.I. Basic Blue 47—Anthraquinone Orange 42 0.45 1.0
from that of the dye under test. C.I. Basic Blue 22—Anthraquinone Yellow 29 (200%) 0.25 2.0
2.2 The dye is assigned a grade from 1 C.I. Basic Blue 77—Triarylmethane Yellow 28 (200%) 0.15 3.0
through 5 corresponding to the standard 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this Yellow 15 0.75 4.0
dye with which it gives on-tone dyeings procedure must be controlled at or below Orange 48 0.65 5.0
throughout the sequence (half-steps, < 1, levels set by governmental authorities Blue
or > 5 may also be assigned). (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health Blue 69 0.55 1.0
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- Blue 45 2.70 2.0
3. Terminology posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR Blue 47 (200%) 0.60 3.0
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov Blue 77 0.60 4.0
3.1 basic dye, n.—a dye that dissoci- for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- Blue 22 (200%) 1.20 5.0
ates in an aqueous medium to give a posi- can Conference of Governmental Indus-
tively-charged ion (cation) with affinity trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold Note: Dye strength is 100% unless otherwise noted
(see 12.6).
for fibers containing acidic groups. Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time The percentages given produce dyeings approxi-
3.2 compatibility, n.—in textile dye- weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short mately one half of 1/1 standard depth on many acrylic
ing, propensity of individual dye compo- term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and fibers (see 12.4).

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM141-2019 273
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
in hue from that of the dye under test Table II—Sample Test Results 11. Precision and Bias
(e.g., to evaluate a blue dye, use the yel- for a Blue Dye
low standard dye scale). 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
6.4 Acetic acid (glacial). Compatibility method has not been established. Until a
Grade (Yellow Appearance of precision statement is generated for this
6.5 Sodium acetate crystals
Scale) Dyed Samples test method, use standard statistical tech-
(CH3COONa · 3H2O).
1.0 Progressively much bluer niques in making any comparisons of test
6.6 Deionized or distilled water, which results for either within-laboratory or be-
does not change significantly in pH on 2.0 Progressively bluer
3.0 On-tone tween-laboratory averages.
boiling. 11.2 Bias. The compatibility of basic
4.0 Progressively yellower
5.0 Progressively much yellower dyes for acrylic fibers can be defined only
7. Specimens in terms of a test method. There is no in-
The compatibility grade of the blue dye is 3.0. dependent method for determining the
7.1 A specimen of the dye under test
true value. As a means of estimating this
is required for each of 5 dyebaths. The
property, the method has no known bias.
% owf is selected to give dyeings ap-
proximately one half of 1/1 standard 9. Evaluation
depth on the pretreated acrylic fiber (see 12. Notes
9.1 Visually assess each dyed fiber
12.4). 12.1 Compatibility Test for Combinations
sample. For each dyebath, report
whether the 6 dyeings are progressively of Basic Dyes in the Dyeing of Acrylic Fibres,
8. Procedure Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists,
bluer, progressively yellower, or consis- Vol. 88, June 1972, pp220-222.
8.1 Pretreat the acrylic fiber for 10 tently on-tone. 12.2 Available from Publications Office,
min at approximately 95°C (203°F) in 9.1 Assign a compatibility grade to the ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330
a solution containing 1% (owf) acetic dye under test. Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240,
acid (glacial) and 1% (owf) CH3COONa · 9.2.1 If one of the dyebaths produced USA; +1. 513.742.2020; www.acgih.org.
consistently on-tone dyeings, the grade is 12.3 Available from AATCC, PO Box
3H2O (to give pH 4.5 ± 0.2) at a liquor: 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
goods ratio of 40:1. the number associated with that bath (see
Table I). A typical example of the results USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
8.2 Lightly squeeze the pretreated fiber www.aatcc.org.
and keep it wet, ready for use. obtained in assessing a blue dye is shown
12.4 For ease in visual assessment, use the
in Table II. dyes under test and the standard dyes in a con-
8.3 Set 5 dyebaths, one for each of the
9.2.2 It is possible for the compatibility centration that produces approximately one
standard dyes in the selected scale, at
of a dye to lie between two adjacent half of 1/1 standard depth when dyed on most
95°C (203°F), a liquor:goods ratio of 40:1
standards; e.g., to be 1.5, 2.5, 3.5 or 4.5. acrylic fibers. If standard depth of the dye be-
and a pH value of 4.5 ± 0.2 with:
In these instances, a series of on-tone dyeing tested is not known, a dyeing concentration
X% Standard dye (see Table I) ings will not be obtained with any of the of similar depth to the Standard Dye Scales in
Y% Dye under test (see 7.1) standard dyes. Table 1 can be used. Additionally, standard
1% Acetic acid (glacial) 9.2.3 If a dye lies outside the scale as depth information may be available from the
1% CH3COONa · 3H2O. dye supplier. It should be understood, how-
defined, assign a grade of < 1, or > 5, ever, that it is not critical that the compatibil-
8.3.1 These percentages and the li- whichever is appropriate. ity is assessed at standard depth, since
quor:goods ratio refer to the weight of an identical grades are obtained at other depths
individual fiber sample, not to the com- 10. Report and in other ratios of standard and test dye.
bined weight of the 6 samples required 12.5 Acrylic fibers can vary widely in their
for each series of dyeings. 10.1 Describe or identify the tested dyeing characteristics. The test is to be con-
8.4 Use 6 fiber samples for each dye- dye. ducted in such a manner that all available dye
bath. Enter the first fiber sample into the 10.2 Report that sample was tested ac- is exhausted in approximately equal portions
dyebath at the recommended tempera- cording to AATCC TM141-2019. onto the number of fiber samples used. To ac-
ture, for the recommended time (see 10.3 Report the testing conditions: complish this, it may be necessary to adjust the
12.5). Remove the first sample and re- dyeing temperature within a range of 90-
10.3.1 Scale used (yellow or blue). 100°C and/or the dyeing time for each sam-
place it with the second. Repeat this dye- 10.3.2 Acrylic fiber description. ple in the range of 5-10 min. Suggested times
ing procedure for a total of 5 samples. 10.3.3 Dyeing apparatus, temperature and temperatures for some typical fibers are:
8.4.1 Dye the last sample to complete and time. Acrilan 16—93°C, 5 min intervals
exhaustion in the same dyebath as the 10.3.4 Test dye and standard dyes % Acrilan SEF—96°C, 5 min intervals (except
first 5. owf. for blue C-1 and yellow C-2 standard, use
8.4.2 Rinse and dry each fiber sample 10.4 Report the test results: 93°C) Orlon 75—96°C, 10 min intervals (ex-
immediately after it is removed from 10.4.1 Compatibility grade of the cept for C-1 standard, use 5 min)
the dyebath. Mount the samples in the Creslan—88°C, 5 min intervals
tested dye.
12.6 The strengths of some standard dyes
sequence in which they were dyed. 10.4.2 Relevant observations regarding were changed in August 1984. The % owf
8.5 Repeat the dyeing procedure for the the dyeings. was adjusted accordingly. For example, C. I.
remaining dyebaths (6 fiber samples in 10.5 Describe any modification(s) of Basic Yellow 29 (200%) at 0.25% replaced C.
each of 5 baths; 30 fiber samples in total). the published method. I. Basic Yellow 29 (100%) at 0.50%.

274 AATCC TM141-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Method for Appearance of Flocked Fabrics after

Home Laundering and/or Coin-Op Drycleaning
Developed in 1975 by AATCC Commit- should be taken to prevent exposure to posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
tee RR81; reaffirmed 1978, 1989, 2000, skin and eyes. 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
2011; editorially revised and reaffirmed 4.3 All chemicals should be handled for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
1983, 1994, 2005; editorially revised with care. can Conference of Governmental Indus-
1985, 1986, 1988, 1991, 1993, 1996, 4.4 Drycleaning solvents may be toxic trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
2004, 2008, 2010, 2019 (with title by inhalation, by repeated contact with Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
change); revised 2016. skin and by ingestion; they should be weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
used only in a well vented atmosphere. term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
Fabric saturated with drycleaning sol- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
1. Purpose and Scope vents should be dried in an adequately as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
ventilated hood. Use chemical goggles or posure which should be met (see 11.1).
1.1 This test method covers a proce-
dure for evaluating the durability of face shield, impervious gloves and an im-
flocked fabric to home laundering or pervious apron when handling dryclean- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.2)
coin-op drycleaning with the use of flock ing solvents.
4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should 5.1 Patterns for pant leg panels made
loss and appearance at the edgewear from 3 mm (0.125 in.) tempered Maso-
areas of simulated pant leg specimens as be located nearby and an organic vapor
respirator should be readily available for nite or other suitable material. See Fig. 1
the criteria. for panel dimensions.
emergency use.
4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this 5.2 Sewing machine—Home type, 301
2. Principle plain stitch, 8-10 stitches/25 mm (1.0 in.).
procedure must be controlled at or below
2.1 Simulated pant leg specimens are levels set by governmental authorities 5.3 Sewing thread—Good quality gen-
laundered, or drycleaned, then evaluated (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health eral purpose cotton.
for appearance and durability. Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 5.4 Automatic Washing Machine or

3. Terminology
3.1 drycleaning, n.—the cleaning of
fabrics with organic solvents such as pe-
troleum solvent, perchloroethylene or
fluorocarbon.
NOTE: The process also includes add-
ing detergent and moisture to the solvent,
up to 75% RH, and hot tumble drying to
71°C (160°F).
3.2 laundering, n.—of textile materi-
als, a process intended to remove soils
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
an aqueous detergent solution and nor-
mally including subsequent rinsing, ex-
tracting and drying.

4. Safety Precautions
NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets
and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules
must also be consulted and followed.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas.
4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-
ence Detergent may cause irritation. Care Fig. 1—Simulated pant leg for edgewear evaluation.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM142-2016e 275
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
equivalent (see 11.5). The above drycleaning is repeated for
5.5 Automatic Dryer or equivalent (see the desired number of cycles. Allow for a
11.5). Gas or electric with 5-min tumble 30-min relaxation period between dry-
cooling period at the end of the drying cleanings.
cycle.
5.6 Detergent, low sudsing, 1993 8. Evaluation
AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
(see 11.4). 8.1 After the desired number of laun-
5.7 Ballast of 920 × 920 ± 30 mm (36 × dering or drycleaning cycles, specimens
36 ± 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleached are opened and laid flat with the side
cotton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1). seam in the center of the examination
5.8 Coin-Op Drycleaning Unit or simi- area.
lar equipment (see 11.6). 8.2 Compare the edgewear at hems,
5.9 AATCC comparison photographs, cuffs and seams as above prepared with
set of 5 (see Fig. 2 and 11.3). the AATCC comparison photographs and
rate using a ranking scale of:
6. Test Specimens 5—None
4—Slight
6.1 Replicate sets (two sets each for 3—Noticeable
laundering and drycleaning) of simulated 2—Considerable
pant leg specimens prepared as follows. 1—Severe
6.2 Cut one front and one back panel 8.2.1 Take care to ensure that the rat-
for each simulated pant leg required, with ing is based on flock loss and not on flat-
the longer 600 mm (23.5 in.) dimension tened or matted pile that can be restored
in the fabric length direction. by methods such as brushing. A magni-
Place a front panel over a back panel fying glass is often required to make this
with the face sides together and align the judgment.
lengthwise cut edges on one side. Stitch
the two panels together about 16 mm 9. Report
(0.625 in.) in from the cut edges, along
with 600 mm (23.5 in.) length, using the 9.1 Report the grade determined in 8.2
301 stitch, 00-3 cord sewing thread and and also report the number of laundering
8-10 stitches per 25 mm (1.0 in.). Next, and/or drycleaning cycles at which the
align the opposite lengthwise cut edges ranking value was obtained.
and stitch together in the same manner as
above. 10. Precision
Turn the tubular specimen inside out so
that the face side is on the outside. 10.1 Precision. Laundering—Intralabo-
For pant leg specimens without cuffs, ratory repeatability σ ± 0.20 ranking unit.
turn in the top and bottom edges to form Laundering—Interlaboratory reproduc-
51-mm (2-in.) hems and stitch in position ibility σ ± 0.30 ranking unit.
about 6 mm (0.25 in.) from the raw Drycleaning—Intralaboratory repeat-
edges. Be sure to burst open the side ability σ ± 0.25 ranking unit.
seams (no pressing) before stitching in Drycleaning—Interlaboratory reproduc-
these areas. ibility σ ± 0.60 ranking unit.
The patterns for the simulated pant leg 10.2 Bias. Appearance of flocked fab-
allow for a cuff at the bottom end. For a Fig. 2—Photographs for ranking rics after repeated home laundering and/
cuffed leg, turn in and stitch the top hem edgewear of flocked fabrics. or coin-op drycleaning can be defined
as above. At the bottom, turn in a 76 mm only in terms of a test method. There is
(3-in.) length and stitch as above, then no independent method for determining
turn up the hem to make a 38 mm (1.5 the true value. As a means of estimating
in.) cuff and tack at both side seams. the washing machine selected, as shown this property, the method has no known
NOTE 1—Separate test specimens are in AATCC LP1. At the completion of the bias.
required for washing and drycleaning. drying cycle, remove the load from the
NOTE 2—Normally creases are not dryer and separate the pieces. 11. Notes
pressed in simulated pant leg specimens The above washing and drying proce-
dure is repeated for the specified number 11.1 Available from Publications Office,
made from flocked fabrics. However, if ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
pressed-in creases are desired in flocked of wash/dry cycles. Allow for a 30-min Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
fabric specimens, the pressing procedure relaxation period between each drying 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
used should be representative of that used and washing. 11.2 For potential equipment information
by commercial manufacturers. 7.2 Coin-Op Drycleaning—The test pertaining to this test method, please visit
specimens are drycleaned as part of a the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
1.82-kg (4-lb) load, made up with aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
7. Procedure of listing equipment and materials sold by its
dummy pieces of drycleanable fabrics.
7.1 Laundering (see 11.7)—Wash the The coin-op unit with perchloroethylene Corporate members, but AATCC does not
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
test specimens as part of 1.84-kg (4-lb) solvent (about 1% charge system) shall tify that any of the listed equipment or
load, using ballast, if necessary, one of be run for the full cycle which includes materials meets the requirements in its test
the automatic home type washing ma- tumble drying. At the end of each dry- methods.
chines described in AATCC LP1, and one cleaning cycle, remove the load from the 11.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
of the applicable wash temperatures for unit, and separate the pieces. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:

276 AATCC TM142-2016e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM142-2016e 277
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM143-2018t

Test Method for Appearance of Apparel and Other

Textile End Products after Home Laundering
Developed in 1975 by AATCC Com- jected to standard home laundering prac- with a set of reference standards.
mittee RA61; revised 1982, 1989, 1992, tices. Appearance of specimens is evalu-
1996, 2006, 2010, 2011, 2014, January ated in a standard viewing area by 4. Safety Precautions
2018 (with title change), November visually comparing the appearance of
2018; editorially revised and reaffirmed specimens with appropriate reference NOTE: These safety precautions are
1984, 2001; editorially revised 1986, standards. Results may be reported as an for information purposes only. The pre-
1991, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2012, overall percentile value from 0% to cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
June 2018. Technically equivalent to 100%, with 100% representing the most dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
ISO 15487. smoothness and crease retention. Results sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
may also be reported as separate smooth- safe and proper techniques in handling
ness appearance (SA), seam smoothness materials in this test method. Manufac-
Foreword (SS) and crease retention (CR) grades. turers MUST be consulted for specific
All grades may range from 1 to 5, with 1 details such as material safety data sheets
This test method and its accompanying representing the least smoothness or and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
evaluation tools were developed for eval- crease retention and 5 representing the tions. All OSHA standards and rules
uation of woven fabrics with a durable- most smoothness or crease retention. must also be consulted and followed.
press finish. It is common industry prac- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
tice to use the method and scales for eval- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
3. Terminology
uation of other textile materials although laboratory areas.
some specimens may have different ap- 3.1 appearance of textile end prod- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation.
pearance characteristics due to different ucts, n.—the overall visual impression of Care should be taken to prevent exposure
fabric constructions. a textile end product quantified by com- to skin and eyes.
Standard laundering procedures remain parison of individual components with 4.3 All chemicals should be handled
consistent to allow valid comparison of appropriate reference standards. with care.
results. Standard procedures represent, 3.2 ballast, n.—in procedures for pro- 4.4 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
but may not exactly replicate, current cessing or testing of textiles, material that dations should be followed when operat-
consumer practices, which vary over time is used to bring the total weight or vol- ing laboratory testing equipment.
and among households. Alternate laun- ume of the textiles to an amount specified 4.5 When evaluating crease retention,
dering procedures and machine param- in the procedure. use of a light shield can aid in prevention
eters may be found in AATCC LP1, Lab- 3.3 crease retention, n.—in fabrics, of burns that could result from lamp heat.
oratory Procedure for Home Laundering: the visual impression of an inserted
Machine Washing (see 12.3) and ISO crease quantified by comparison with a 5. Uses and Limitations
6330, Textiles — Domestic washing and set of reference standards.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

drying procedures for textile testing (see 5.1 This test method is designed to be
3.4 durable press, adj.—having the used for evaluating the appearance of ap-
12.7). ability to retain substantially the initial parel or other textile end products pro-
shape, flat seams, pressed-in creases and duced with washable fabric after home
1. Purpose and Scope unwrinkled appearance during use and laundering. Although this method applies
1.1 This test method is intended to de- after laundering or drycleaning. to laundering of garments, it is acknowl-
termine the smoothness appearance of 3.5 grade, n.—the number assigned to edged that common industry practice is to
fabric, seams, and pressed-in creases in a test specimen resulting from compari- also rate the product in its original state.
garments and other textile products after son to a scale. 5.2 In general, it is preferable to con-
being subjected to home laundering pro- 3.6 laundering, n.—of textile mate- duct the test under relatively severe laun-
cedures. rials, a process intended to remove soils dering conditions. It is recognized that
1.2 Any washable textile end product and/or stains by treatment (washing) with special cycles or features are available on
may be evaluated for smoothness appear- an aqueous detergent solution and nor- current washing machines and dryers to
ance, seam smoothness and crease reten- mally including rinsing, extracting and achieve improved performance on certain
tion using this method. drying. items; e.g., gentle cycles with reduced
1.3 Textile end products containing 3.7 laundering creases, n.—sharp agitation to protect delicately con-
fabrics of any construction, such as wo- folds or lines running in any direction in a structed items, and durable press cycles,
ven, knit and nonwoven, may be evalu- washed or dried specimen. NOTE: Laun- with cool-down or cold rinses and re-
ated according to this method. dering creases are an unintended result of duced spin speeds, to minimize wrin-
1.4 Techniques for seaming and creas- restricted movement of specimens in a kling.
ing are not outlined since the purpose is washer or the dryer. 5.3 Prints and patterns may mask the
to evaluate textile end products as they 3.8 seam smoothness, n.—in fabrics, mussiness present in textile end products.
will be supplied from manufacturing or the visual impression of planarity of a The evaluation process is, however,
as ready for use. seamed specimen quantified by compari- based on the visual appearance of speci-
son with a set of reference standards. mens including such effects.
2. Principle 3.9 smoothness appearance, n.—in 5.4 The evaluation replicas and scales
fabrics, the visual impression of planarity were created from woven fabrics. It is un-
2.1 Textile end product items are sub- of a specimen quantified by comparison derstood that they do not duplicate other

278 AATCC TM143-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
IV, 12.2) or facilities for drip, screen or rameters.
line drying. 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
6.6 Conditioning facilities and condi- of all specimens, plus enough laundering
tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- ballast pieces to make a total load weight
rated shelves (see 12.3) of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± 0.2 lb). For very
6.7 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lb ca- critical evaluation and in arbitration, limit
pacity. the number of specimens per washer load
6.8 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference to those from one sample.
Detergent (powder with brightener, see 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
12.3). machine to fill to specified water level.
6.9 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type 8.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
3 (see Table V). Standard Reference Detergent to washing
6.10 Evaluation area, as described in machine as directed by washing machine
Appendix A. manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
6.11 AATCC Three-Dimensional is added directly to wash water, agitate
Fig. 1—AATCC three-dimensional Smoothness Appearance Replicas, set of briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi-
smoothness appearance replicas. six (see Fig. 1 and 12.3). tation before adding wash load.
6.12 AATCC Photographic Seam 8.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens
Smoothness Scales, for single-and dou- and ballast), distributing evenly around
fabric possibilities (knits, nonwovens). ble-needle seams (see Fig. 2 and 12.3). center agitator. Restart wash cycle.
The replicas and scales are to be used as The reproductions shown in Fig. 2 may 8.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
guides that represent various levels of not be used for rating. (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle
smoothness or crease retention. 6.13 AATCC Three-Dimensional before the water begins to drain from the
5.5 The interlaboratory reproducibility Crease Replicas, set of five (see Fig. 3 final rinse cycle. Remove specimens
of the results of this test method depends and 12.3). soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble
upon mutual agreement by users of the (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al-
method on the washing and drying condi- 7. Test Specimens low washing to proceed through the final
tions as outlined in Tables I-IV and the spin cycle.
weighting factors to use for individual 7.1 For textile end product tests, select
8.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-
components of the items as described in three items for testing.
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces,
9.7.3. 7.1.1 If the fabric is wrinkled, it may taking care to minimize distortion.
be smoothed by appropriate ironing prior
to laundering. See Table I, Safe Ironing 8.1.8 Washer creases. Specimens may
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) Temperature Guide, in AATCC TM133, be in a folded or creased state after wash-
Test Method for Colorfastness to Heat: ing. Such folds or creases should be re-
6.1 Steam or dry iron with appropriate moved by hand prior to drying.
fabric temperature settings. Hot Pressing (see 12.3).
8.1.9 Proceed to appropriate drying
6.2 Standard washing machine (see Ta- procedure.
ble I, 12.2), for machine washing. 8. Laundering Procedure
8.2 Hand Washing.
6.3 Wash tub, 9.5-L, for hand washing. 8.1 Machine Washing. 8.2.1 Select washing temperature from
6.4 White towels, large enough to ac- 8.1.1 Select washing conditions for Table II. Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal)
commodate test specimen, any weight, testing from Table I. Normal cycle is rec- of water at this temperature to the wash
for hand washing. ommended. Set washing machine con- tub.
6.5 Standard tumble dryer (see Table trols to generate the selected cycle pa- 8.2.2 Add 20 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993

A. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.

Fig. 2—AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM143-2018t 279
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Standard Hand Washing
and Rinsing Temperatures
Wash Temp, Rinse Temp,
Designation °C (°F) °C (°F)
Very Cold 16 ± 3 (60 ± 5) < 18 (< 65)
Cold 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Warm 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
Hot1 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) < 29 (< 85)
1
Hot water may not be a reasonable selection for
hand washing or for the delicate items typically requir-
ing hand washing.

Table III—Standard Drying Conditions

(A) Tumble Dry
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
Fig. 3—AATCC three-dimensional crease replicas. (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat

Standard Reference Detergent to wash 8.2.15 Remove specimen(s) from wash specimen on an appropriate hanger,
tub. tub and gently squeeze to remove excess straightening and smoothing facings,
8.2.3 Agitate by hand to dissolve deter- water. Do not twist or wring. seams, etc. Specimens should generally
gent. 8.2.16 Using clean white towels, blot be oriented in the direction in which they
8.2.4 Add specimen(s) to water and water from washed specimen(s). Do not are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci-
gently squeeze to distribute detergent so- wring or twist. mens over the hanger. Allow specimens
lution. Do not twist or wring. 8.2.17 Proceed to appropriate drying to hang in still air at room temperature
8.2.5 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. procedure. not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry.
8.2.6 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in 8.3 Drying. Do not blow air directly on specimens as
detergent solution for 1 min. Do not twist 8.3.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- it may cause distortion.
or wring. ble III. 8.3.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
8.2.7 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min 8.3.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-
squeeze in detergent solution. washed load (test specimens and ballast) rated surface, removing wrinkles without
8.2.8 Remove specimen(s) from wash in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera- distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
tub and gently squeeze to remove excess ture control to generate the selected cycle mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
detergent solution. Do not twist or wring. exhaust temperature (see Table IV). Al- ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until
8.2.9 Place specimen(s) on clean white low the dryer to run until the load is fully dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
towel. Empty and rinse wash tub. dry. Remove specimens immediately. mens as it may cause distortion.
8.2.10 Add 7.6 ± 1.9 L (2.0 ± 0.5 gal) 8.3.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each 8.3.6 For all drying methods, allow
of clean water at the specified rinse tem- specimen on an appropriate hanger, specimens to dry completely before
perature (see Table II) to the wash tub. straightening and smoothing facings, washing again.
8.2.11 Place washed specimen(s) from seams, etc. Specimens should generally 8.3.7 Laundering creases. If speci-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
towel in rinse water and gently squeeze to be oriented in the direction in which they mens are folded or creased after any dry-
distribute. Do not twist or wring. are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci- ing cycle except the last, rewet and at-
8.2.12 Let specimen(s) soak for 2 min. mens over the hanger. Allow specimens tempt to remove the creases by ironing
8.2.13 Gently squeeze specimen(s) in to hang in still air at room temperature with a hand iron at a temperature suitable
rinse water for 1 min. Do not twist or not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry. for the fabric being tested (see 7.1.1),
wring. Do not blow air directly on specimens as prior to additional laundering cycles. Do
8.2.14 Repeat 2-min. soak and 1-min it may cause distortion. not attempt to remove wrinkles or creases
squeeze in rinse water. 8.3.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet by hand ironing after the final drying

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.6)

Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

280 AATCC TM143-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2) peated with new specimens, taking all
precautions to avoid the occurrence of
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
laundering creases.
Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 9.5 Seam Smoothness.
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10 9.5.1 Mount the test specimen on the
viewing board with the seam in the verti-
cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-
Table V—Laundering Ballast Parameters gle-or double-needle AATCC Photo-
Type 1 Type 3 graphic Seam Smoothness (SS) Scale
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% beside the specimen to facilitate compar-
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun ative evaluation.
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 9.5.2 Confine observations to the area
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2 influenced by the seam and disregard the
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged appearance of the surrounding fabric.
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm The Seam Smoothness Scales were pho-
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) tographed from woven fabrics. It is un-
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g derstood that the photographs do not du-
plicate other fabric or seam possibilities.
cycle. 9.4 Smoothness Appearance. The scales are to be used as guides that rep-
resent various levels of seam smoothness.
8.3.8 Repeat the selected washing and 9.4.1 Mount the test specimen on the 9.5.3 The seam smoothness (SS) grade
drying procedures for a total of 5 com- viewing board with the fabric length in the is that of the Photographic Scale seam
plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of vertical direction. Place the most similar that most nearly matches the appearance
cycles. Three-Dimensional Smoothness Appear- of the test specimen seam.
8.4 Conditioning. ance Replicas on each side of the test spec- 9.6 Crease Retention.
8.4.1 After the final drying cycle is imen to facilitate comparative evaluation.
9.6.1 Mount the test specimen on the
complete, condition test specimens as di- 9.4.2 The Smoothness Appearance viewing board with the crease in the ver-
rected in ASTM D1776, Standard Prac- Replicas were cast from woven fabrics. It tical direction. Place the most similar
tice for Conditioning and Testing Tex- is understood that the replicas do not du- Three-Dimensional Crease Replicas on
tiles (see 12.4). (Use conditions indicated plicate all possible fabric surfaces. The each side of the test specimen to facilitate
in Table 1 for Textiles, general. Estimate replicas are to be used as guides that comparative evaluation. Mount replicas
conditioning time as indicated in Table 2 represent various levels of fabric smooth- 1, 3 and 5 on the left; mount replicas 2
for the appropriate fiber content.) Lay ness or freedom from wrinkles. The ob- and 4 on the right.
each test specimen flat, separately, on a server should mentally integrate degree 9.6.2 Position the flood lamp with re-
screen or perforated shelf of a condition- and frequency of wrinkles in the speci- flector and light shield in the viewing
ing/drying rack. men to determine a level of smoothness area, as shown in Fig. A2, and used dur-
that can be identified with the SA replica ing the evaluation process.
9. Evaluation number which most nearly represents that 9.6.3 Confine observations to the
smoothness appearance level (see Table crease itself and disregard the appearance
9.1 Three trained observers should VI). of the fabric. The Crease Replicas were
evaluate each test specimen indepen- 9.4.3 The smoothness appearance (SA) cast from woven fabrics. It is understood
dently. grade is that of the Smoothness Appear- that the replicas do not duplicate other
9.2 Make all evaluations in the speci- ance Replica that most nearly matches fabric possibilities (knits, nonwovens).
fied viewing area (see Appendix A). Illu- the smoothness appearance of the test The replicas are to be used as guides that
minate the viewing area with the over- specimen. Observers may assign a grade represent various levels of fabric creas-
head fluorescent light only. Turn all other midway between those whole-number ing.
lights in the room off except when rating replicas that have no half-number replica 9.6.4 The crease retention (CR) grade
crease appearance. In that case, the floor separating them (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA- is that of the Crease Replica that most
lamp with reflector and light shield, posi- 4.5) if the appearance of the test speci- nearly matches the appearance of the test
tioned as shown in Fig. A2, is also re- men warrants it. specimen crease.
quired. 9.4.4 If laundering creases are present 9.7 Appearance of Textile End Prod-
9.3 Each observer is to stand directly in on any specimens to be evaluated, take ucts.
front of the specimen 1219 ± 25 mm (48 care in rating the specimens. Some laun- 9.7.1 The individual components to be
± 1in.) away from the board. It has been dering creases can be disregarded (com- evaluated in each test item shall be deter-
found that normal variations in the height monly called “reading out”). When the mined and entered on a Rating Chart
of the observer above and below the arbi- grade of a laundering-creased specimen (Fig. 4).
trary 1524-mm (60-in.) eye level have no differs from the other specimens by more 9.7.2 If it is desired to designate certain
significant effect on the grade given. than one grade, the test should be re- components as more or less important to
the overall appearance of the item,
weighting factors should be added to the
Table VI—Fabric Smoothness Grades by SA Replica Equivalents Rating Chart.
9.7.3 The weighting factors to be as-
Grade Description signed to each component are:
SA-5 Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance. 3—Very important to overall item ap-
SA-4 Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica. Smooth, finished appearance. pearance.
SA-3.5 Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica. Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance. 2—Moderately important to overall
SA-3 Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica. Mussed, nonpressed appearance. item appearance.
SA-2 Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica. Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance. 1—Slightly important to overall item
SA-1 Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica. Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance. appearance.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM143-2018t 281
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.3.1 A description or identification
of the sample.
10.3.2 Evaluation was using AATCC
TM143-2018t.
10.3.3 Number of specimens used.
10.3.4 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
or Type 3).
10.3.5 Number of laundering cycles
(default is 5 cycles).
10.3.6 Laundering conditions, includ-
ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
perature, drying procedure and tumble
drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
numeric designations may be used if they
are clearly understood by all parties. For
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
dry cycle.
10.3.7 Number of observers.
10.3.8 Seam smoothness scale used.
i.e., single-needle or double-needle.
10.3.9 Any modifications of the test
method.
10.3.10 For Option 1, the overall per-
centile value for the item.
10.3.11 For Option 2, the average SA
grade, average SS grade, and average CR
grade, each to the nearest tenth of a
grade.
10.4 If fraying occurs in laundering at
seams or elsewhere within the product,
the location and amount should be noted.

11. Precision and Bias

11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
method has not been established. Until a
precision statement is generated for this
test method, use standard statistical tech-
niques in making any comparisons of test
results for either within-laboratory or be-
Fig. 4—Rating chart. tween-laboratory averages.
11.2 Bias. The appearance of apparel
and other textile end products after home
9.7.4 Mount the item on the viewing report average grade for each component laundering can be defined only in terms
board so that the center of the area or evaluated in the test item. of a test method. There is no independent
component to be rated is approximately method for determining the true value.
1524 mm (60 in.) from the floor as illus- As a means of estimating this property,
10. Report the method has no known bias.
trated in Fig. A1. Place the appropriate
replicas or photographs in proper position 10.1 Option 1—Using Weighting Fac-
to facilitate comparative evaluation (refer tors—Total the weighting factors as- 12. Notes
to 9.4, 9.5 or 9.6). signed to each component in the rating 12.1 For potential equipment information
9.7.5 If the item is exceptionally large, chart (Fig. 4) and multiply by 5. This pertaining to this test method, please visit the
such as a sheet, comforter, bedspread, gives the maximum point value achiev- online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at http://
curtain or drapery, fold the item length- able by the item. Multiply the average www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the pos-
wise to produce a panel half the original grade recorded for each component by its sibility of listing equipment and materials sold
assigned weighting factor. Total these by its Corporate members, but AATCC does
width. Place this half-panel over a rod so not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or
that the fabric length is vertical and the values to obtain the actual point value
achieved by the item. Report, as the per- certify that any of the listed equipment or ma-
folded item is in equal quarters. The rod terials meets the requirements in its test meth-
should be sufficiently long to accommo- centile value of the item, the number ob- ods.
date the half-width item. Attach the rod tained by dividing the actual point value 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
with the large item to the rating board at by the maximum point value achievable tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard
approximately 1829 mm (72 in.) from the and multiplying by 100%. This value is parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

floor. Position the standard replicas or the unit of measure of this test method. or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
10.2 Option 2—Report average grades Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.
photographs to facilitate comparative
on each individual component of each 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@
evaluation. Evaluate the area across the aatcc.org. An alternate load size was described
full width of the quartered panel at the test item, using the Average Grade col- in previous versions of this method (3.6-kg
same eye level as the replicas. Evaluate umn of the Rating Chart. load, 83-L water level, 80 g AATCC 1993
all four quarters in the same manner and 10.3 Report for each sample tested: Standard Reference Detergent), but no ma-

282 AATCC TM143-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
chine is reported to meet the standard parame- tices. Consumer practices vary over time and fabricated using light sheet metal (22 ga.)
ters for this load size. In addition, dimensional among households; lab practices must be con- A2 Lighting.
change results obtained with the alternate load sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If A2.1 Overhead fluorescent tube light
size may not be equal to those obtained with a laundering equipment or conditions other than
standard load size. those specifically listed in this test method are fixture (see 12.5).
12.3 Materials or drawings available from used, they must be described in detail and A2.1.1 Two parallel F96 T12 cool
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle noted as a modification of the standard white lamps (without baffle or glass),
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: method. Alternate laundering conditions are A2.1.2 One white enamel reflector
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc. outlined in AATCC LP1 and ISO 6330. (without baffle or glass),
org; web site: www.aatcc.org. 12.7 Available from ISO, www.iso.org. A2.1.3 Mount as shown in Fig. A1.
12.4 Available from ASTM International, A2.2 Incandescent flood lamp, 500
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. watts, 120 V, C9 filament, 90° flood
Appendix A
9555; web site: www.astm.org. spread, for crease evaluation.
Evaluation Area
12.5 The use of two 96-in. lamps for view- A2.2.1 254-mm (10-in.) aluminum re-
ing laundered specimens is specified in this A1 Viewing Board. flector, for use with flood lamp.
method. It is recognized, however, that physi- A1.1 Plywood board, 1829 mm (72 in.) A2.2.2 Light shield.
cal space limitations in certain laboratories high × 6 mm (0.25 in.) thick × wide A2.2.3 Position as shown in Fig. A2.
will prevent the use of 96-in. lamps. In those
situations, two 48-in. lamps and a narrower
enough to accommodate scale and speci- A2.3 Eliminate all light sources except
viewing board may be used, but replicas iden- men side by side the specified fluorescent lamps. Use
tified as SA-4, SA-3 and SA-1 should always A1.2 Painted to match the Grade 2 chip flood lamp for crease evaluation only.
be placed on the left side of the viewing board on the Gray Scale for Staining (see 12.3). A3 Walls.
as the board is viewed from the front. Replicas Approximate CIELAB values for the A3.1 It has been the experience of
identified as SA-5, SA-3.5 and SA-2 should chip are L* = 77, a* = 0, b* = 0. A toler- many observers that light reflected from
always be placed on the viewing board to the ance of two units for each parameter is the side walls near the viewing board can
right side as the board is viewed from the acceptable for the board color in this test interfere with the rating results. It is rec-
front. method.
12.6 The laundering temperatures and other
ommended that the side walls be painted
parameters listed in this test method are stan- A1.3 Spring-loaded swatch mount or matte black (85° gloss less than 5 units)
dard conditions for testing purposes. As with other means to secure specimen and scale or that blackout curtains be mounted on
most lab procedures, they represent, but may such that center of specimen is 1524 mm both sides of the viewing board to elimi-
not exactly replicate, current consumer prac- (60 in.) above the floor. Mount may be nate the reflective interference.

2438 mm
(nominal 96-in. fixture) 619.8 ± 7.6 mm
(24.4 ± 0.3 in.)

Specimen
1829 ± 25 mm
(72 ± 1 in.)

2362 ± 25 mm Scale Side View

(93 ± 1 in.) 1524 ± 25 mm
Front View
(60 ± 1 in.) 5°± 0.5°
162.6 ± 2.5 mm
635 ± 13 mm (6.4 ± 0.1 in.)
(25 ± 0.5 in.)

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Fig. A1—Evaluation area.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM143-2018t 283
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Light Flood lamp
Shield with reflector

Eye Level
1524 ± 25 mm

Abitrary
(60 ± 1 in.)
5°± 0.5°

45°± 1°

1219 ± 25 mm 1829 ± 25 mm
(48 ± 1 in.) (72 ± 1 in.)

Fig. A2—Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease-retention evaluation.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

284 AATCC TM143-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM144-2022

Test Method for Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Total

1. Purpose and Scope tions. All OSHA standards and rules 7. Calibration
must also be consulted and followed.
1.1 This test method is used to deter- 7.1 Calibrate the pH meter with pH 4.0
4.1 Good laboratory practices should buffer solution in accordance with the
mine the total alkali content of wet pro-
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all manufacturer’s instructions. Dual calibra-
cessed textiles. Total alkali can be used to
laboratory areas. tion instruments should be calibrated to
determine washing and/or neutralizing
efficiency after certain wet processing 4.2 All chemicals should be handled pH 4.0 and pH 7.0.
steps, particularly bleaching, and can be with care.
used as a measure of the suitability of 4.3 If concentrated sulfuric acid is di-
luted to prepare the 0.10N sulfuric acid 8. Specimens
prepared fabric for subsequent dyeing
and finishing operations. (see 6.5), use chemical goggles or face 8.1 Take samples in the dry or wet
shield, impervious gloves, and an imper- state.
vious apron. Concentrated acids should 8.2 Dry cloth. Select two or more rep-
2. Principle be handled only in an adequately venti- resentative dried specimens. Place in
2.1 Each specimen is immersed in dis- lated laboratory hood. CAUTION: Al- oven at 100°C (212°F) for 1 h. Cool in a
tilled or deionized water, and the solution ways add acid to water. desiccator and weigh to the nearest 0.1 g.
is then titrated with a standard acid to a 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should Specimens should weigh 5-10 g.
predetermined end point. The percentage be located nearby and a high efficiency 8.3 Wet cloth. Select two or more rep-
of alkali can then be calculated from the particulate respirator with a full facepiece resentative specimens weighing approxi-
amount of acid used and the weight of the should be readily available for emer- mately 10-20 g in the wet state.
specimen. gency use.
4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this 9. Procedure
procedure must be controlled at or below
3. Terminology levels set by governmental authorities 9.1 Place each specimen in a 600 mL
3.1 bleaching, n.—elimination of un- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health beaker containing 450-500 mL distilled
wanted coloring matter from a substrate Administration’s [OSHA] permissible or deionized water at room temperature
by oxidative or reductive chemical treat- exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29 and stir vigorously for 1 min. Cover the
ment. CFR 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha. beaker and keep the specimen immersed
3.2 pH, n.—the negative logarithm of gov for latest version). In addition, the for 15 min. Finally, stir the specimen
the hydrogen ion activity expressed in American Conference of Governmental again and insert the pH meter elec-
gram equivalents per liter used in ex- Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH) Thresh- trode(s), being careful to avoid contact
pressing both acidity and alkalinity on a old Limit Values (TLVS) comprised of with the specimen.
scale whose values run from 0 to 14 with time weighted averages (TLV-TWA), 9.2 Titrate the water and specimen with
7 representing neutrality, numbers less short term exposure limits (TLV-STEL), 0.10N H2SO4 to a steady (10 s) pH 3.9
than 7 representing increasing acidity, and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recom- endpoint. Add titrant dropwise followed
and numbers greater than 7 representing mended as a general guide for air con- by gentle agitation of the specimen with-
increasing alkalinity. taminant exposure which should be met out touching the electrode(s). Read bu-
(see 14.1). rette to the nearest graduation (see 14.3).
3.3 total alkali, n.—in textile wet pro-
cessing, residual alkaline materials in a 9.3 If the specimen was taken from a
wet processed textile expressed as per- 5. Limitations wet sample, rinse and dry the titrated
cent sodium hydroxide on dry weight of specimen to a constant weight (to the
the textile. 5.1 In this test method all alkalis de- nearest 0.1 g) as in 8.2, being careful to
3.4 wet processing, n.—in textile tected, such as sodium hydroxide, sodium collect any large threads that may have
manufacturing, a collective term for pro- carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, and other unraveled during the titration procedure.
cesses included in preparation, dyeing, alkaline salts, are calculated as sodium 9.4 Titrate a water blank by repeating
printing, and finishing in which the tex- hydroxide. The results are reported as to- 9.2 without a specimen present.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

tile material is treated with a liquid, nor- tal alkali, expressed as NaOH.
mally water, or with chemicals in solu- 5.2 Since distilled or deionized water 10. Calculations
tion or dispersion in a liquid. can contain dissolved carbon dioxide,
care should be taken to remove it by boil- 10.1 Compute the percentage total al-
ing water before use. kali from the titer according to the fol-
4. Safety Precautions lowing formula:
NOTE: These safety precautions are 6. Apparatus and Reagents X = [(A – B)(0.04)(N) 100]/W
for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6.1 pH meter with 0.1 unit graduations. where:
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- X = % total alkali as sodium hydrox-
6.2 Beakers, glass, 600 mL. ide (NaOH),
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling 6.3 Burette, glass, 10 mL with 0.10 mL A = volume of acid used for speci-
materials in this test method. Manufac- graduations. men, mL,
turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.4 Buffer solution, pH 4.0 and 7.0. B = volume of acid used for blank, mL,
details such as material safety data sheets 6.5 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 0.10N (see N = normality of sulfuric acid (0.10N),
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 14.2). W = weight of specimen.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM144-2022 285
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.2 Compute the sample average by pating laboratories in performance of the wet processed textiles can only be de-
using the formula: test method. fined in terms of a test method. There is
13.1.2 Analysis of the data set no known bias in the determination of
x = (x1 + x2 + … + xn)/n this property by this test method. During
(5 × 2 × 3 × 4=120 values) yielded com-
ponents of variance as follows. this study, no determination of the true
11. Evaluation value was made by an independent, ref-
eree analytical method for the purpose of
11.1 Total alkalinity is important be- Components of Variance Variance
establishing presence or absence of bias.
cause of its effect on the subsequent pro- Laboratories 0.000245
cessing operations to which the textile is Operators within laboratories 0.000061
subjected. Interpretation of test results is Specimens within materials, 14. Notes
usually based on a combination of total laboratories, and operators 0.000047 141 Available from Publications Office,
alkalinity and pH of the water extracted ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330
from the fabric as determined by AATCC 13.1.3 Table I (critical differences) was Kemper Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240;
TM81, Test Method for pH of the Water calculated using the values in 13.1.2. tel: +1. 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.
Extract from Wet Processed Textiles. 13.1.4 Differences between two aver-
org.
11.2 Total alkalinity quantifies the 14.2 For method of preparation of standard
ages of N determinations, for the appro- acid refer to W. W. Scott, Standard Methods of
amount of residual alkali in a specimen, priate precision parameter, should reach
per unit of weight, providing the speci- Chemical Analysis, 6th Ed., Van Nostrand,
or exceed the table value to be statisti- New York, 1962, p1343.
men contains alkali. cally significant at the 95% probability 143 If preferred, titration may be made with
level. a suitable colorimetric indicator such as me-
12. Report 13.2 Bias. thyl orange (pH 3.1-4.4). The precision may
be less with this method than with a good pH
12.1 Describe or identify the sample. 13.2.1 The values of the total alkali in meter.
12.2 Report that sample was testing us-
ing AATCC TM144-2022. 15. History
12.3 Report the average total alkalinity. Table I—Critical Differences for Two
Averages—95% Probability Level 15.1 Revised in 2022 to align to the
13. Precision and Bias AATCC style guide.
Alkali in Wet Processed Textiles: Total 15.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed:
13.1 Precision. (% weight total alkali as sodium hydroxide) 2016, 2012. Editorially revised 2010. Reaf-
13.1.1 In 1993, an interlaboratory firmed 2007, 2002. Revised (with title change)
Single Within Between 1997. Reaffirmed 1992. Editorially revised
study was completed, which included N Operator Laboratory Laboratory 1990. Revised (with title change) 1987. Reaf-
five laboratories, two operators in each, 1 0.0190 0.0288 0.0509 firmed 1986. Editorially revised 1985. Reaf-
running three determinations per fabric, 2 0.0134 0.0230 0.0491 firmed 1980, 1977.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
on four fabrics. No prior assessment was 4 0.0095 0.0209 0.0481 15.3 Developed in 1975 by AATCC Com-
made of the relative level of the partici- 8 0.0067 0.0198 0.0477 mittee RA34.

286 AATCC TM144-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM146-2011(2022)e

Test Method for Dispersibility of Disperse Dyes: Filter

1. Purpose and Scope Table I. Selection of Applicable Test
1.1 This test determines the dispersibil- Whatman Filter
ity as evaluated by filtering time and fil- Test Paper Combination Application of Dyes pH of Dispersion
ter residue of disperse dyes under stan-
III #2 over #4 Package dyeing of polyester 4.5-5.0
dard conditions in aqueous media. III #4 over #4 Beck dyeing of polyester 4.5-5.0
Additional information such as variables III #4 over #4 Dyeing of nylon carpet and apparel 9.0-10.0
which affect accuracy and repeatability
of the test are specified in Section 10.
1.2 This test method is to be used for
ing preparation. Concentrated acids (pressure drop).
determining the degree of dispersion at the
should be handled only in an adequately 5.6 Vacuum pump or water aspirator to
specified conditions in aqueous media only.
ventilated laboratory hood. CAUTION: obtain vacuum of 560 ± 100 mm Hg (22
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

2. Principle Always add acid to water. ± 4 in. Hg).

4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should 5.7 Vacuum control valve.
2.1 A quantity of disperse dye is di- be located nearby and an organic vapor 5.8 Rubber tubing, vacuum.
luted, heated and passed through filter respirator with full facepiece should be 5.9 Stopwatch.
papers of specified micron size. The time readily available for emergency use. 5.10 Beakers, 400 mL or larger.
needed for the dye dispersion to pass 4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this 5.11 Balance, analytical.
through the filter is then recorded. procedure must be controlled at or below 5.12 Tetrasodium salt of ethylene-
2.2 Three tests are outlined according levels set by governmental authorities diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) as 25%
to intended dye application (see 10.5 and (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health solution, such as Cheelox BF-12 or
Table I). Administrator’s [OSHA] permissible ex- equivalent.
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR 5.13 Tetrasodium pyrophoshate, anhy-
3. Terminology 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov drous (TSPP) (Na4P2O7), 10% solution.
3.1 disperse dye, n.—an essentially for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- 5.14 Acetic acid (CH3COOH), 10% so-
water insoluble dye having affinity, when can Conference of Governmental Indus- lution.
properly dispersed, for polyester, polya- trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold 5.15 Filter Residue Scale (see Fig. 1
mide and some other manufactured poly- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time and 10.12).
meric fibers. weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short 5.16 Distilled or deionized water,
3.2 dispersibility, n.—the degree to term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and which does not change significantly in
which particles can be broken down to ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended pH on heating. This water is modified
some minimum size such that they will as a general guide for air contaminant ex- with 0.25 g/L of chelating agent (EDTA)
pass through the interstices of a standard posure which should be met (see 10.15). as specified in 5.12.
filter paper. 5.17 Dye samples (see 6.2).
5. Apparatus and Materials 5.18 Stirrer, laboratory, magnetic.
4. Safety Precautions 5.19 Graduated cylinder, 250-mL.
5.1 Buchner funnel: Coors glazed one-
NOTE: These safety precautions are piece porcelain, 110 mm diameter (see 5.20 pH meter.
for information purposes only. The pre- 10.2).
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Procedure
5.2 Filter papers: Whatman #2, 110
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- mm diameter: Whatman #4, 110 mm di- 6.1 Water Preparation.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ameter or exact equivalent filter paper 6.1.1 Preheat 400 mL of water to 71°C
safe and proper techniques in handling from other sources (see 10.4). (160°F). This will be used to preheat the
materials in this test method. Manufac- 5.3 Stainless steel ring with approxi- funnel before conducting test (see 10.7
turers MUST be consulted for specific mate dimensions 103 mm (4.05 in.) ID, and 6.6).
details such as material safety data sheets 111 mm (4.33 in.) OD and 8 mm (0.32
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.1.2 Prepare special water (see 5.16)
in.) height to hold filter paper in place for use in dye dispersion as follows: Add
tions. All OSHA standards and rules (see 10.6 and 10.12).
must also be consulted and followed. 0.25 g/L EDTA (see 5.12) to distilled or
5.4 Filtering flask with side tube, ca- deionized water.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
pacity 1000 mL. 6.2 Weighing of dyes.
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas and a single use dust res- 5.5 Manometer to measure vacuum 6.2.1 Weigh out 2.0 ± 0.1 g of dye
pirator while handling powder dyes.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled
with care. The compounds used in this
test method at the concentrations speci-
fied are considered to present no signifi-
cant hazard when used in accordance
with good laboratory practices.
4.3 If concentrated acetic acid is di-
luted to prepare the 10% acetic acid, use
chemical goggles or face shield, impervi-
ous gloves and an impervious apron dur- Fig. 1—Filter residue scale.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM146-2011(2022)e 287
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
powder or 4.0 ± 0.2 g of 50% liquid of ately pour dye dispersion which has been method has no known bias.
the dye sample to be tested. Also weigh heated to 71°C (160°F) (see 6.4) into fun-
out an equal quantity of the standard dye nel and begin timing. The end point is 10. Notes
(see 10.3). reached when the filter paper changes 10.1 The results of this test method can
6.2.2 If the dyes are of high tinctorial from a wet to a dry visual appearance. vary widely unless all details are run under the
strength, the weighed amount can be re- Record time up to 120 s to the nearest s. conditions outlined. Any variation in the con-
duced to 1 g/200 mL but should be re- 6.7.2 In order to achieve more repro- ditions can cause the test to be invalid. Results
ported as only 1g used (see 10.8). ducible results, especially with dyes in have been shown to be repeatable in several
6.2.3 When evaluating two different Class 3 (intermediate values are interpo- laboratories when the specified conditions
dyes of approximately equal shade but of lated) or lower, it may be advisable to were met.
different tinctorial values, one dye is al- rinse the filter paper while it is in the fun- 10.2 Variations in results can be caused by
ways selected as the standard. Then the nel with 10-15 mL of the specially pre- differences in the diameter of the filter funnel
due to differences in surface area.
other product is run on an equal concen- pared water (see 6.1.2) before drying (see 10.3 The dye standard is always included so
tration (grams/200 mL) basis. When 10.13). that the influence of any operator induced
evaluating two samples of the same dye, 6.8 Allow filter paper to dry and evalu- variable on the results is minimized.
the standard is the one furnished as stan- ate as outlined in Section 7). 10.4 Whatman paper is specified because it
dard material by the respective dye man- was used by all participants in developing this
ufacturer. When evaluating the same dye 7. Evaluation test method. Any other filter paper which
from two different manufacturers, one gives equivalent results may be used. Two fil-
7.1 Record time for filtration and rate ter papers are used to provide a more uniform
should determine if the two products are
as follows: vacuum across the filtering surface. The filter
of equal strength before running the test.
If a strength difference is determined, the Class A—0-24 s paper is used as received in the box with the
Class B—25-49 s slick side up to avoid variations due to texture
two products should be evaluated as out- differences on the rough side. The coarser pa-
lined in the first two sentences of this Class C—50-74 s per should always be on the bottom. Other pa-
paragraph. Class D—75-120 s pers may be used if quality and microretention
6.3 Add the weighed dye (see 6.2.1) Class E—> 120 s are exactly the same as the Whatman paper.
slowly and completely to 200 mL of the 7.2 Examine residue on filter paper Whatman #2—Filters particles above 8 µm.
vigorously agitated specially treated wa- versus the Filter Residue Scale (standard Whatman #4—Filters particles above 25 µm.
ter (see 5.16) at 43-49°C (110-120°F) in a photographic replicas) (see 10.13, 10.14). 10.5 Tests I, II and III are defined as follows:
400 mL beaker (see 10.9) using a mag- Also examine the paper for any visible Test I—Whatman #2 filter paper over
netic stirrer. Adjust the pH of the dye dis- Whatman #4 filter paper. This test is designed
coarse or granular particles (see 10.13). If to evaluate the most critical dispersion re-
persion as follows: present the test is automatically rated as quirements such as for package dyeing of
6.3.1 Tests I and II: adjust to pH 4.5- Class 1. If none is present, rate as follows: polyester.
5.0 with a 10% solution of acetic acid Test II—Whatman #4 filter paper over
(see 5.13 and 10.14). Class 5—Excellent
Class 4 Whatman #4 filter paper. This test is designed
6.3.2 Test III: adjust to pH 9-10 with to evaluate dispersion requirements for dyeing
TSPP (see 5.13 and 10.14). Class 3—Intermediate values are inter-
at longer liquor ratios (such as beck dyeing).
6.4 Heat the adjusted solution 5-10 min polated Tests I and II are carried out at an acid pH
to 71°C (160°F). Stir by means of a mag- Class 2 of 4.5-5.0 to reflect common dyeing practices
netic stirrer to prevent localized heating Class 1—Poor for disperse dyes on polyester fiber.
(see 10.1 and 10.10). Test III—Whatman #4 filter paper over
8. Report Whatman #4 filter paper. This test is designed
6.5 Pour 200-300 mL of 71°C (160°F)
water prepared in 6.1.1 through a 110 to evaluate the dispersion requirements of dis-
8.1 Classify and report the following: perse dyes for application on nylon (carpet and
mm funnel without filter paper to preheat 8.1.1 Test Number (see 10.6 and Table apparel dyeing). The pH of 9-10 specified for
the funnel. Wait 25 ± 10 s. Turn on the I). this test reflects common industrial practice.
vacuum until the water has passed 8.1.2 Class according to filtration rate 10.6 Since the Whatman filter paper is cel-
through the funnel. Quickly wipe funnel (see 7.1). lulosic in nature, it can swell quite readily
dry (see 10.6 and 10.7). 8.1.3 Class according to amount of res- when wet out. Therefore, if the paper is
6.6 Cut vacuum off and immediately idue (see 7.2). prewet, the time of filtration will go up as a re-
place Whatman filter papers in dry Buchner Example: I-A-3, where I is the Test sult of the wet out temperature and/or time
funnel (see 10.4, 10.5, 10.6 and Table I): lag. Thus it is imperative that the paper not be
Number (Whatman #2 over Whatman wet prior to the test, since the micron retention
Test I: Whatman #2 on top #4); A indicates the time of filtration (0- of the paper is reduced. This is the reason for
Whatman #4 on bottom 24 s); and 3 represents amount of residue the stainless steel ring, which holds the filter
Test II: Whatman #4 on top on filter paper as compared with a stan- paper in place without prewetting. On dyes
Whatman #4 on bottom dard photographic chart. which have a very small particle size, the
Test III: Whatman #4 on top speed of filtration will not be changed to a siz-
Whatman #4 on bottom 9. Precision and Bias able degree by a vacuum alteration. However,
a reduced vacuum can result in faster filtration
6.7 Insert stainless steel ring in funnel 9.1 Precision. Precision for this test times on dyes of larger particle size, since the
over filter papers and turn on vacuum. method has not been established. Until a suction is not as great. On dyes of larger parti-
The vacuum should be 560 ± 100 mm (22 precision statement is generated for this cle size, an increased vacuum will block the
± 4 in.). This range is obtained by using test method, use standard statistical tech- paper faster, slowing up the filtration rate, and
either a standard vacuum pump or house niques in making any comparisons of test thus swelling the paper more. This results in
vacuum. A water aspirator may not give results for either within-laboratory or higher filtration times and more residual dye
this vacuum until a liquid is introduced between-laboratory averages. on the paper.
10.7 The funnel should always be preheated
into the system. In this event, the test 9.2 Bias. The dispersibility of disperse with 200-300 mL of water heated to 71°C
should proceed after pouring the dye dis- dyes can be defined only in terms of a test (160°F) and then wiped dry so that the disper-
persion into the funnel and waiting 10-13 method. There is no independent method sion will not be reduced in temperature by a
s for full vacuum. for determining the true value. As a cold funnel. The preheating cycle should al-
6.7.1 With the vacuum on, immedi- means of estimating this property, the ways come just prior to running the tests with-

288 AATCC TM146-2011(2022)e

Appendix A. Flow Chart for AATCC TM146

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM146-2011(2022)e 289
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM147-2011(2016)e

Test Method for Antibacterial Activity

of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak
Developed in 1976 by AATCC Commit- 2. Principle used in this test are pathogenic; i.e., capa-
tee RA31; reaffirmed 1977, 1982, 1998, ble of infecting humans and producing
2016; editorially revised 1980, 1982, 2.1 Specimens of the test material, in- disease. Therefore, every necessary and
1983, 1986, 2010, 2019 (with title cluding corresponding untreated controls reasonable precaution must be taken to
change); revised 1987, 1988 (with title of the same material, are placed in inti- eliminate this risk to the laboratory per-
change), 1993, 2011; editorially re- mate contact with the agar surface which sonnel and to personnel in the associated
vised and reaffirmed 2004. has been previously streaked with an in- environment. Wear protective clothing
oculum of a test bacterium. After incuba- and respiratory protection that prevents
tion, a clear area of interrupted growth penetration by the bacteria.
underneath and along the sides of the test 4.3 Good laboratory practices should
Foreword material indicates antibacterial activity of be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
the specimen. A standard strain of bacte- laboratory areas.
The Parallel Streak Method has filled a ria is used which is specific to the re-
need for a relatively quick and easily exe- 4.4 All chemicals should be handled
quirements of the material under test. If with care.
cuted qualitative method to determine an- no other bacterial species is specified,
tibacterial activity of diffusible antimi- 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should
Staphylococcus aureus may be used as a be located nearby for emergency use.
crobial agents on treated textile materials. representative Gram positive organism. 4.6 Sterilize all contaminated samples
AATCC TM100, Test Method for An- Other recommended strains are listed be- and test materials prior to disposal.
tibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials, low in Section 6. 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this
Assessment of, is a quantitative proce- procedure must be controlled at or below
dure which is adequately sensitive but is 3. Terminology levels set by government authorities
cumbersome and time consuming for (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
routine quality control and screening 3.1 activity, n.—of an antibacterial
Administrations [OSHA] permissible ex-
tests. Therefore, when the intent is to agent, a measure of effectiveness of the
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
demonstrate bacteriostatic activity by agent.
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
the diffusion of the antibacterial agent 3.2 antibacterial agent, n.—any for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
through agar, AATCC TM147 fulfills this chemical which kills bacteria (bacteri- can Conference of Governmental Indus-
need. In the Parallel Streak Method, the cide) or interferes with the multiplication, trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
agar surface is inoculated making it eas- growth or activity of bacteria (bacteri- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
ier to distinguish between the test organ- ostat). weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
ism and contaminant organisms which 3.3 zone of inhibition, n.—clear area term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
may be present on the unsterilized speci- of no growth of a microorganism, cul- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
men. The Parallel Streak Method has tured onto the surface of an agar growth as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
proven effective over a number of years medium, in proximity to the borders of a posure which should be met (see 12.2).
of use in providing evidence of antibacte- specimen placed in direct contact with
rial activity against both Gram positive this agar surface.
5. Uses and Limitations
and Gram negative bacteria. NOTE: A zone of inhibition occurs as
a result of the diffusion of an antimicro- 5.1 The method is not suitable for ma-
bial agent from the specimen. terials which tend to encapsulate and pre-
1. Purpose and Scope vent the diffusion of the antibacterial
4. Safety Precautions agent or contain antibacterial-neutralizing
1.1 The objective is to detect bacterio- substances.
static activity on textile materials. The re- NOTE: These safety precautions are
sults of using this procedure have been for information purposes only. The pre-
demonstrated by Committee RA31 to be 6. Test Organisms
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
reproducible by various laboratories dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.1 Test bacteria:
working with materials containing resid- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.1.1 Staphylococcus aureus, ATCC
ual amounts of antibacterial agents (as safe and proper techniques in handling 6538, CIP 4.83, DSM 799, NBRC 13276,
determined by chemical assay) after mul- materials in this test method. Manufac- NCIMB 9518 or equivalent strain (see
tiple standard washings. The method is turers MUST be consulted for specific 12.3).
useful for obtaining a rough estimate of details such as material safety data sheets 6.1.2 Klebsiella pneumoniae, ATCC
activity in that the growth of the inocu- and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 4352, CIP 104216, DSM 789, NBRC
lum organism decreases from one end of tions. All OSHA standards and rules 13277, NCIMB 10341 or equivalent
each streak to the other and from one must also be consulted and followed. strain (see 12.3).
streak to the next resulting in increasing 4.1 This test should be performed only 6.1.3 Other suitable species can also be
degrees of sensitivity. The size of the by trained personnel. The U.S. Depart- used depending on the intended end-use
zone of inhibition and the narrowing of ment of Health and Human services pub- of the test sample.
the streaks caused by the presence of the lication Biosafety in Microbiological and 6.2 Maintain test organisms according
antibacterial agent permit an estimate of Biomedical Laboratories should be con- to good laboratory practice standard (see
the residual antibacterial activity after sulted (see 12.1). 12.4).
multiple washings. 4.2 CAUTION: Some of the bacteria 6.3 Whenever possible, test the activity

290 AATCC TM147-2011(2016)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

7.2 Materials. section lifter or with a spatula which has 12.1 Publication available from U.S. De-
been sterilized by flaming and then air partment of Health and Human Services, CDC/
7.2.1 Incubator maintained at 37 ± 2°C NIH-HHS Publication No. (CDC) 84-8395;
cooled immediately before use.
(99 ± 4°F). web site: www.hhs.gov.
9.5 If the specimen curls, preventing
7.2.2 Inoculating loop. 12.2 Available from Publications Office,
intimate contact with the inoculated sur- ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
7.2.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent. face, place sterile glass slides on the ends Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
7.2.4 Water bath maintained at 45-50°C of the specimen to hold it in place. 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
(113-122°F). 9.6 Incubate at 37 ± 2°C (99 ± 4°F) for 12.3 ATCC is the American Type Culture
7.2.5 Pipets, 1 mL, sterile. 18-24 h. Collection (USA), P.O. Box 1549, Manassas
7.2.6 Culture Tubes with caps; mini- VA 20108; tel: +1.703.365.2700; fax: +1.703.
mum 10 mL capacity. 10. Evaluation 365.2701; CIP is the Pasteur Institute Collec-
tion (France); DSM is the German Collection
7.2.7 Petri dishes, 100 mm diam. × 15 of Microorganisms and Cell Cultures (Ger-
10.1 Examine the incubated plates for
mm deep, sterile. many); NBRC is the NITE Biological Re-
interruption of growth along the streaks
7.2.8 Forceps, sterile. of inoculum beneath the specimen and source Center (Japan); and NCIMB is the
7.2.9 Stereomicroscope, minimum 40× National Collection of Industrial Bacteria
for a clear zone of inhibition beyond its (UK). Equivalent bacteria strains obtained
magnification. edge. The average width of a zone of in- from agencies of the World Federation of Cul-
7.2.10 Ruler. hibition along a streak on either side of ture Collection (WFCC) may be used by
the test specimen may be calculated using agreement between the interested parties. The
8. Test Specimens the following equation: strains used in the test shall be documented
with their supply source.
8.1 Test specimens (non-sterile) are cut W = (T – D)/2 12.4 Consistent and accurate testing
by hand or with a die. They may be any where: requires maintenance of a pure, uncontami-
convenient size. Rectangular specimens W = width of clear zone of inhibition nated, non-mutant test culture. Avoid contami-
nation by using good sterile technique in
cut 25 × 50 mm are recommended. A 50 in mm
plating and transferring. Avoid mutation by
mm length permits the specimens to lie T = total diameter of test specimen strict adherence to monthly stock transfers.
across five parallel inoculum streaks each and clear zone in mm Check culture purity by making streak plates
of diminishing width from about 8 to 4 D = diameter of the test specimen in periodically and observing for a single
mm wide. mm species-characteristic type of colonies.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM147-2011(2016)e 291
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM148-2014e4(2021)

Test Method for Light Blocking Effect of Textiles

and Related Materials: Photodetector
Foreword NOTE: These safety precautions are men in close contact with the outside wall
for information purposes only. The pre- of the opening, but other means of fixing
AATCC TM148-1989, Light Blocking cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- a specimen against the opening may be
Effect of Curtain Materials, was discon- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- used. A lamp housed within a metal re-
tinued in 1994. During the time of its dis- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use flector is mounted so that it is aligned
continuance, the need for a method to safe and proper techniques in handling with the two holes in the box. The dis-
measure this property continued. The materials in this test method. Manufac- tance from the lamp to the surface of the
method has now been rewritten and reti- turers MUST be consulted for specific test fabric is 300 mm. To accommodate
tled for reactivation, in parallel with an details such as materials safety data different lamps, it is convenient to have
alternative method using a standard labo- sheets and other manufacturer’s recom- the housing mounted on a track so that
ratory sphere spectrophotometer used in mendations. All OSHA standards and the distance to the specimen can remain
transmission mode (see AATCC TM203, rules must also be consulted and fol- constant.
Test Method for Light Blocking Effect of lowed.
Textiles: Spectrophotometric). The two 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
methods are not equivalent (see 14.1). be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 8. Test Specimens
laboratory areas. 8.1 For a (purportedly) evenly-block-
1. Purpose and Scope 4.2 The manufacturer’s safety recom- ing material, cut or mark three represen-
mendations should be followed when op- tative test specimens from the sample. Do
1.1 The test method measures the light erating laboratory testing equipment. not take specimens from within 10% of
blocking properties of textile and related
the width from the selvedge or machine
materials using a photometer. 5. Uses and Limitations
edge of the fabric.
1.2 This method is applicable to all
types of fabrics, including coated textiles 5.1 The results may depend on the spe- 8.2 If testing a complete curtain or roll
and other textile-based constructions. cific light source used in the instrument. of fabric, test three locations across the
This is quoted as part of the report. width.
5.2 For materials of high light blocking 8.3 If testing reveals that the transmis-
2. Principle effect, the method is limited by the ability sion characteristics vary excessively be-
of the system to measure very small tween specimens, even if not obvious to
2.1 By measuring the amount of light amounts of light, in turn depending on the eye, increase the number of speci-
from a test lamp, and the amount of light the sensitivity of the instrument, together mens (see section 11 and 14.2).
from the same lamp transmitted through a with the output of the light source used
test material, the percent of light blocked 8.4 Materials with small-scale (less
(see 14.3). than the 50 mm size of the specimen ex-
by the material is determined. This repre- 5.3 The test measures non-diffuse
sents the material’s light blocking effect. posed) variation in transmission charac-
transmission through the material under teristics (based on fabric structure, or
test. It is designed to exclude diffuse printed decoration, for example) may re-
3. Terminology transmission (scattered light) (see 14.1). quire additional specimens to be cut.
3.1 diffuse transmission n.—process 8.5 Materials with large (greater than
6. Calibration
by which incident light, while being the 50 mm size of the specimens ex-
transmitted through an object, is redi- 6.1 The measurement is of an SI-based posed) repeats of varying transmission
rected or scattered over a range of angles. quantity (lux), and the instrument should characteristics may have the light block-
3.2 light n.—electromagnetic radiation be calibrated to traceable standards at in- ing effect of each area measured sepa-
weighted by the luminosity function of tervals recommended by the manufac- rately.
the human eye. turer, typically on an annual basis. 8.6 Include sampling information in
3.3 light blocking, n.—the ability of a the test report.
7. Apparatus
textile to prevent the transmission of
light. 7.1 The apparatus (see Fig. 1) consists 9. Conditioning
3.4 non-diffuse transmission, n.—proc- of a rectilinear box constructed of light-
ess by which incident light is transmitted impermeable materials with internal di- 9.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec-
through an object in a rectilinear, straight- mensions of 360 ± 20 mm high, 280 ± 20 imens as directed in ASTM D1776, Stan-
through manner, without diffusion. mm wide, and 200 ± 20 mm deep with dard Practice for Conditioning and Test-
3.5 photometer, n.—an instrument used matte black internal surfaces. On one side ing Textiles. Condition the specimens for
for measuring light is a circular opening of dimensions to fit at least 4 h in an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C
3.6 total transmission, n.—the amount the sensor of a photometer with a clamp (70 ± 4°F), 65 ± 5% RH, by laying each
of light transmitted comprising diffuse to hold the sensor in place at the internal specimen separately on a screen or perfo-
plus non-diffuse transmission. surface of the box. Directly opposite is a rated shelf of a conditioning rack.
3.7 transmission, n.—process by which circular opening 50 ± 3 mm in diameter. 9.2 Perform all tests in the standard at-
incident light is transmitted through an A sliding shutter of opaque material al- mosphere for testing. Alternatively, con-
object. lows this opening to be completely ditions of testing may be adjusted to cor-
blocked. Magnetic bars provide a conve- respond to conditions of use. Report the
4. Safety Precautions nient means of clamping a fabric speci- use of alternative test conditions.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

292 AATCC TM148-2014e4(2021) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Ferro Magnetic Plate

280 ± 20 mm Wide Test Specimen

Sensor

Lighting
Fixture
Slide
Sensor 50 ± 3 mm
Clamp

200 ± 20 mm
Measurement
Apparatus

360 ± 20 mm

Fig. 1—Photometer

10. Procedure 11. Calculation paratus.

12.3 Report the average light blocking
10.1 Mount light source, box and pho- 11.1 Calculate the average of the two capacity for all measurements of the
tometer in a room with consistent and measurements of the amount of light specimens tested, either as % light
low ambient light (see 14.1). Close the (“A”) entering the box from the test lamp blocked or average Absorbance (see
slider over the specimen port. (see 10.6 and 10.12) 11.3).
10.2 Turn on the light source. Allow 11.2 Calculate the light blocking by 12.4 Report the number of samples/
light to warm up to constant output. each specimen of the test material by one specimens tested.
10.3 Zero the instrument. This will of the two methods as follows (see 13.6). 12.5 Report the standard deviation of
take account of any ambient light, which 11.2.1 Calculate the percentage of light the data.
should be low, and held constant while blocked thus: 12.6 Report the temperature and hu-
measurements are taken. midity conditions of the test.
10.4 Adjust the instrument sensitivity % Light Blocked = 100 × [1 – (B/A)]
(if applicable) to low sensitivity for mea- where:
surement of high light levels. 13. Precision and Bias
B = amount of light transmitted
10.5 Open the sliding aperture. through the specimen reaching 13.1 Precision. The light blocking ef-
10.6 Measure and record the amount of the photometer. fect of several coated fabrics was mea-
light reaching the photometer (in units of A = average amount of light reaching sured. Three readings at varying posi-
lux, or foot candles) with no material in the photometer from the test tions on the fabrics as described above
place (“A”). lamp with no material in place. were recorded by the same operator three
10.7 Close the sliding aperture. times, and by different operators. The
10.8 Place the test specimen at the or: precision (95% confidence limits) were
specimen aperture and clamp it in place. 11.2.2 Calculate the Absorbance of the analyzed using probability functions out-
10.9. Open the sliding aperture. material thus: lined in Handbook of Mathematical Ta-
10.10 Measure and record the light Absorbance = – log10 (B/A) bles, Richard Burington, McGraw Hill,
transmitted by the material (“B”) that Library of Congress 63-23531, p358–359
reaches the photometer. If necessary and 11.3 Calculate the average % light (Table 22).
applicable, increase the instrument sensi- blocked, or average Absorbance of the
tivity to a level appropriate for the three (or more) specimens. For single operator consistency:
amount of light being transmitted. 11.4 Calculate the standard deviation On 3 different fabrics, Operator #1 had
10.11 Close the aperture, remove the of measurements averaged in 10.3. 95% confidence intervals of 99.64300 to
specimen, mount the next specimen, open 99.66925%, 99.99996 to 99.99999%, and
the aperture and read the transmitted light 12. Report 99.99801% blockages.
(“B”). Repeat until all specimens have
been measured. 12.1 Cite this test method as having For operator to operator consistency:
10.12 Repeat the measurement of been used. Two operators were compared on 3
amount of light reaching the photometer 12.2 Cite the light source: type, watt- fabrics giving similar results with single
from the test lamp “A” with no material age, nominal output and measured output operator comparison. Sample B2 gave
in place as in 9.6. (“A” as calculated in 11.1) used in the ap- lower and upper limits of 99.65611 to

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM148-2014e4(2021)

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 293
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
99.65615% (95% confidence interval). passes through curtain materials into a room 14.4 The method as described is not appro-
Sample A5 produced lower and upper with dark colored walls will contribute less to priate for analysis of non-visual e/m radiation,
limits of 99.99738 to 99.99769%. Sample the light seen by an observer in that room. but might be modified to do so with other fil-
A2 yielded 99.99997 to 99.99998%, as Light scattered as it passes from within a lit ters or software that correspond to the sensi-
structure through a textile material into a dark tivity of the detection device being simulated.
shown in Table I. night will not contribute to the light seen by an
13.2 Bias. Light blocking capacity of 14.5 At very low light levels the human ob-
observer. This method is thus most directly server uses scotopic (“night”) vision, and thus
fabrics can be defined only in terms of a relevant to the last two cases. at low levels of light, the measurement might
test method. There is no independent 14.2 Light blocking materials are often most appropriately be measured through a
method for determining the true value. based on coated textile fabrics. Variation in (physical or mathematical) scotopic filter and
As a means of estimating this property, amounts of coating applied will cause corre- reported scotopically. However, since the orig-
the method has no known bias. sponding variations in light blocking. In this inal lamp measurement will be photopically
way, the method may have utility as a measure weighted, consistency requires that the trans-
14. Notes of coating evenness. In any case, the measure- mitted light be weighted the same way.
ment of light may be carried out to a high de- 14.6 The method provides for two means of
14.1 The black box between the test mate- gree of precision and any variation of results expressing the results obtained, % light block-
rial and the detector shields the detector from from specimen to specimen within a sample is ing and Absorbance. The two are based on the
stray light in the test area. Foam or other mate- likely to derive more from variation within the same data, but use a different calculation. Ab-
rial around the sensor clamp may augment the material than variability in measurement. sorbance provides more convenient numbers
shielding. While ambient light is included in Multiple determinations of light blocking of for materials that block very high percentages
the zeroing of the instrument, this exclusion of the same specimen will provide an estimate of of light.
stray light minimizes any effects of variation measurement repeatability.
in ambient light. The black box also excludes 14.3 The test deals with “light,” electromag-
the detection of light scattered by the substrate netic radiation weighted according to the lumi- 15. History
being measured. AATCC TM203 uses a re- nosity function of the human eye (i.e. the
flectance spectrophotometer and has an inte- standard observer). The weighting can be 15.1 Reaffirmed and editorially revised in
grating sphere between material and detector achieved by software calculation from a spec- 2021 to add history per AATCC style guide.
that will include such scattered light. This dis- tral analysis of light using (typically) an array 15.2 Editorially revised in 2019, and 2016;
tinction means that agreement between the of diodes to collect light of different wave- reaffirmed and editorially revised 2015. Reac-
methods is limited. The extent to which the lengths, or from a single measurement of total tivated and revised 2014 (with new title); dis-
scattered light is relevant to real life situations energy passing through a filter with the appro- continued 1994; reaffirmed 1989, editorially
will, in part, guide the choice of method. Light priate characteristics. These two means of revised in 1986, 1985 and 1984; reaffirmed
scattered as it passes through curtain materials weighting the light transmissions to corre- 1984; editorially revised in 1983 and reaf-
into a room with light colored walls will respond to human eye sensitivity will affect rela- firmed 1979.
flect from those surfaces and contribute to the tive instrument sensitivities, which may in turn 15.3 Developed in 1976 by AATCC Com-
light seen by an observer. Light scattered as it be a factor in the choice of method (see 14.1). mittee RA36.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

294 AATCC TM148-2014e4(2021) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Measurements Used to Calculate Precision Data

95% 95% 95%

Confidence Confidence Confidence
Interval Lower Limit Upper Limit
Single Operator Consistency
Operator 1 B2 99.622% 99.653% 99.659%
Operator 1 B2 99.628% 99.667% 99.653%
Operator 1 B2 99.666% 99.677% 99.680% 99.65614% 0.02011% 0.03942% 99.64300% 99.66928%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000% 99.99997% 0.00003% 0.00005% 99.99996% 99.99999%
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.996%
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.998%
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.999% 99.998% 99.99761% 0.00061% 0.00120% 99.99721% 99.99801%
Operator-Operator Comparison
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.996%
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.998%
Operator 1 A5 99.998% 99.999% 99.998% 99.99761% 0.00061%
Operator 2 A5 99.997% 99.996% 99.997%
Operator 2 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.998%
Operator 2 A5 99.998% 99.998% 99.998% 99.99746% 0.00063%
99.99754% 0.00011% 0.00022% 99.99738% 99.99769%
Operator 1 B2 99.622% 99.653% 99.659%
Operator 1 B2 99.628% 99.667% 99.653%
Operator 1 B2 99.666% 99.677% 99.680% 99.65614% 0.02011%
Operator 2 B2 99.624% 99.624% 99.627%
Operator 2 B2 99.669% 99.634% 99.656%
Operator 2 B2 99.707% 99.671% 99.692% 99.65612% 0.03100%
99.65613% 0.00001% 0.00002% 99.65611% 99.65615%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 1 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000% 99.99997% 0.00003%
Operator 2 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 2 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000%
Operator 2 A2 100.000% 100.000% 100.000% 99.99997% 0.00001%
99.99997% 0.00000% 0.00000% 99.99997% 99.99998%

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM148-2014e4(2021) 295
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM149-2018e

Test Method for Chelation Value of Aminopolycarboxylic

Acids and Their Salts: Calcium Oxalate
Developed in 1976 by AATCC Commit- 3. Terminology 5. Uses and Limitations
tee RR90; editorially revised and reaf-
firmed 1977, 1985 (with title change), 3.1 chelating agent, n.—in textile 5.1 Analysis by this method will yield
1997; reaffirmed 1980, 2002, 2007, chemistry, a chemical capable of deactivat- a CaCV that includes partially-substituted
2012; editorially revised 1984, 1986, ing metal ions by formation of a water-sol- EDTA, HEDTA and DTPA as well as ni-
1988 (with title change), 2010, 2019; uble complex. SYN.—sequestering agent. trilotriacetic acid (NTA), iminodiacetic
revised 1992, 2018 (with title change). acid (IDA), glycolate and other weak
chelating agents. These compounds may
4. Safety Precautions be present in some commercial products.
5.2 AATCC TM168 is an alternative
Foreword NOTE: These safety precautions are procedure that yields a CaCV that does
for information purposes only. The pre- not include the partially-substituted prod-
The titration in this method yields a value cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- ucts and weaker chelating agents.
that includes partially-substituted EDTA, dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
HEDTA, DTPA, nitrilotriacetic acid sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
(NTA), iminodiacetic acid (IDA), glyco- safe and proper techniques in handling 6. Reagents
late and other weak chelating agents materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.1 Calcium carbonate (CaCO3).
found in some commercial products. An turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.2 Sodium oxalate (Na2C2O4).
alternative procedure, excluding the ef- details such as material safety data sheets 6.3 Diethylamine hydrochloride [(C2H5)2
fect of partially-substituted products, is and other manufacturer’s recommenda- NH · HCl]
provided in AATCC TM168, Test tions. All OSHA standards and rules 6.4 Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) solu-
Method for Chelation Value of Polyami- must also be consulted and followed. tion, 50% W/W.
nopolycarboxylic Acids and Their Salts: 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6.5 Hydrochloric acid (HCl) conc.
Copper PAN. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
laboratory areas. 7. Sampling
1. Purpose and Scope 4.2 All chemicals should be handled
7.1 Conduct the test in triplicate; i.e.,
with care.
1.1 The active content of ethylene- analyze 3 test specimens from a sample.
diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), N-hy- 4.3 In preparing, dispensing and han-
droxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic acid dling hydrochloric acid and sodium hy-
droxide use chemical goggles or face 8. Specimens
(HEDTA) and diethylenetriaminepenta-
acetic acid (DTPA) and their salts is usu- shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 8.1 Do not use aluminum or metallic
ally expressed by the calcium chelation vious apron. Concentrated acids should weighing pans.
value (CaCV). This value indicates the be handled only in an adequately venti- 8.2 For analysis of solid EDTA,
amount of calcium (as calcium carbon- lated laboratory hood. CAUTION: Al- HEDTA and DTPA (either free acid or
ate) which will be chelated by a known ways add acid to water. salt forms) weigh a 0.49-0.51 g specimen
weight of chelating agent. 4.4 Diethylamine hydrochloride is an of the dried chelating agent to an accu-
eye, skin and respiratory irritant. It racy of 0.01 g.
should be handled only in an adequately 8.3 For analysis of commercial solu-
2. Principle tions of salts of the chelating agents in
ventilated hood.
8.2 weigh a 1.00-1.20 g specimen of the
2.1 The chelation value is determined 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should
solution to an accuracy of 0.01 g.
experimentally by titrating a weighed be located nearby and a self-contained
sample of chelating agent with a calcium breathing apparatus should be readily
ion solution of known concentration. A available for emergency use. 9. Conditioning
precipitating anion (oxalate) is present 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this 9.1 If solid chelating agent is being
during the titration. As the calcium solu- procedure must be controlled at or below evaluated, dry a 2-g sample at the appro-
tion is added, the ions are chelated by the levels set by governmental authorities priate temperature for at least 2 h and
chelating agent and no permanent precip- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health cool in desiccator before weighing speci-
itate is formed as long as there is free Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- mens.
chelating agent present. Beyond this posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR 9.2 Dry free acid forms of chelating
point, any excess calcium ion that is 1910.1000; see www.osha.gov for latest agents at 120°C.
added reacts with oxalate anion to form a version). In addition, the American Con- 9.3 Dry salt forms of chelating agents
cloudy precipitate which is the endpoint. ference of Governmental Industrial Hy- at 80°C.
2.2 The CaCV indicates the amount of gienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val-
calcium (as calcium carbonate) that will ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted 10. Preparation of Reagents
be sequestered by a known weight of averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo-
chelating agent and is expressed as milli- sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim- 10.1 Calcium Titrant Solution (0.250
grams of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) per its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen- M): Weigh 25.0 g of calcium carbonate
gram of chelating agent (mg calcium car- eral guide for air contaminant exposure to an accuracy of 0.1 g and add it to 300
bonate/g chelating agent). which should be met (see 15.1). mL of water in a 600-mL beaker with
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

296 AATCC TM149-2018e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
stirring on a magnetic stirrer. Dissolve by 11.5 Using a 10-mL burette, titrate establish the precision of the test method.
adding 43 mL of concentrated hydrochlo- with calcium titrant solution until a drop Four chelating agents (EDTA, tetraso-
ric acid. Add the hydrochloric acid produces a slight turbidity that persists dium salt; EDTA, 40% solution of tetra-
slowly and carefully to prevent bubbling for at least 30 s (see 15.2). sodium salt; DTPA, free acid; and DTPA,
over and excessive splattering. After the 40% solution) were evaluated.
calcium carbonate has dissolved (the so- 14.2 Precision. The components of
12. Calculation
lution becomes clear), heat the solution to variance as standard deviations of CaCV
boiling and allow it to boil for at least 5 12.1 Calculate the CaCV for each were calculated as follows:
min to expel carbon dioxide. Cool the so- specimen to 3 significant digits using
lution to room temperature, transfer it to Equation 1: Single Operator Component 1.46
a 1-L volumetric flask and dilute it to 1 L. Interlaboratory Component 0.00
Prepare a fresh solution monthly. ( 100.1 ) ( 0.250 ) ( V ) 14.3 Critical Differences. For the com-
CaCV = --------------------------------------------- (Eq. 1)
10.2 Sodium Oxalate Indicator: Dis- W ponents of variances reported in 13.2,
solve 5 g of sodium oxalate in 250 mL of two averages of observed values should
water. Prepare a fresh solution monthly. where: be considered significantly different at
10.3 Sodium Hydroxide (50%): 50% CaCV= Calcium chelation value, ex- the 95% probability level if the difference
solution (W/W) of sodium hydroxide is pressed as mg CaCO3/g is equal to or exceeds the following criti-
available from many laboratory supply chelating agent cal differences:
vendors. It can be prepared by dissolving 100.1 = Molecular weight of CaCO3
expressed in mg/mmole Single Operator 4.04
100 g of sodium hydroxide pellets in 100
mL of water in a polyethylene bottle. Let 0.250 = Molarity of calcium titrant so- Interlaboratory 4.04
stand for a week to allow the insoluble lution expressed in mmoles/ 14.4 Bias. Based on the theoretical cal-
sodium carbonate to settle. mL cium chelation values of the four materi-
10.4 pH 12.0 Buffer Solution: Dissolve V = Volume of calcium titrant so- als used in the interlaboratory study, the
41.0 g of diethylamine hydrochloride in lution in mL average bias of the five laboratories was
400 mL of water. Add 40 mL of 50% so- W = Weight of specimen in grams 2.24%. The individual biases for the four
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

dium hydroxide and dilute to 500 mL. materials and five laboratories ranged from
Store in a polyethylene bottle. Prepare a 12.2 Average the CaCV values for the 2.50-4.25%.
fresh solution monthly. 3 specimens tested.
15. Notes
11. Procedure 13. Report
15.1 Available from Publications Office,
11.1 Pour the specimen into a 250-mL 13.1 Report for each sample tested: ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
Erlenmeyer flask and add 85 mL of wa- 13.1.1 A description or identification Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; +1.513.
ter. Wash any residual chelating agent of the sample. 742.2020; www.acgih.org.
from the weighing paper or dish into the 13.1.2 Evaluation was performed using 15.2 Turbidity is easier to observe when a
flask. AATCC TM 149-2018e. piece of black paper is placed beneath and be-
11.2 Add 5 drops of 50% sodium hy- 13.1.3 Average CaCV, to 3 significant hind the flask, and the flask is illuminated
digits. from the side by a white fluorescent light. Add
droxide (10 drops if the free acid form of
the calcium titrant dropwise once the turbidity
a chelating agent is being analyzed) and 13.1.4 Any modifications of the test begins to persist for more than 2-3 s. The end-
swirl to dissolve and/or mix the chelating method. point is the first sign of turbidity that persists
agent. for at least 30 s. If there is uncertainty as to
11.3 Add 1 mL of pH 12.0 buffer solu- 14. Precision and Bias whether a slight turbidity has been obtained,
tion and swirl to mix. compare the appearance of the flask to that of
11.4 Add 10 mL of sodium oxalate so- 14.1 Summary. An interlaboratory one containing only water, which has a dis-
lution and swirl to mix. study was conducted in March 1990 to tinct clear appearance.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM149-2018e 297
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM150-2018t

Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Garments

after Home Laundering
Developed in 1977 by AATCC Commit- 3. Terminology 5.5 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference
tee RA42; editorially revised and reaf- Detergent (powder, with brightener, see
firmed 1979, 1984, 1992; editorially 3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- 12.3).
revised 1983, 1985, 1989, 1990, neric term for changes in length or width 5.6 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type
1991,1996, 1997, 2004, 2005, 2006, of a fabric specimen subjected to speci- 3 (see Table IV).
2008, 2016; revised 1987, 1995, 2001, fied conditions. The change is usually ex-
5.7 Indelible ink marking pen (see
2003 (with title change), 2010, 2012, pressed as a percentage of the initial di-
12.3) for use with suitable rule, tape,
January 2018, November 2018; reaf- mension of a specimen.
marking template or mechanical marking
firmed 2000. Related to ISO 3759. 3.2 garment, n.—a shaped article of
device (see 12.3). Sewing thread may be
textile fabric, or other flexible material,
used for making benchmarks.
intended to cover portions of the human
body. 5.8 Measuring devices.
Foreword 5.8.1 Tape or rule marked in millime-
3.3 growth, n.—a dimensional change
resulting in an increase of length or width ters, eighths or tenths of an inch.
Although this method calls for mea-
surement of dimensional changes in un- of a specimen. 5.8.2 Tape or ruled template marked
seamed areas of garment specimens, re- 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- directly in percent dimensional change to
sults may be affected by garment con- als, a process intended to remove soils 0.5% or smaller increment (see 12.3).
struction, tensions, sewing threads or and/or stains by treatment (washing) with
trims in addition to fabric dimensional an aqueous detergent solution and nor- 6. Test Specimens
change. An option is also provided for mally including rinsing, extraction and
drying. 6.1 Sampling and Preparation.
measuring dimensional change between
or along garment seams. 3.5 shrinkage, n.—a dimensional 6.1.1 Each garment will be considered
Standard laundering procedures remain change resulting in a decrease in the a specimen. Garments used as specimens
consistent to allow valid comparison of length or width of a specimen. should be representative of the produc-
results. Standard procedures represent, tion lot. When possible, three specimens
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

but may not exactly replicate, current should be used. One or two specimens
4. Safety Precautions may be used when an insufficient number
consumer practices, which vary over time
and among households. Alternate laun- NOTE: These safety precautions are of garments is available.
dering procedures and machine parame- for information purposes only. The pre- 6.1.2 Garments that are distorted in
ters may be found in AATCC LP1, Labo- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- their unlaundered state due to faulty fab-
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: dures and are not intended to be all inclu- ric finishing, garment assembly, or pack-
Machine Washing, AATCC LP2, Labo- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ing may give deceptive dimensional
ratory Procedure for Home Laundering: safe and proper techniques in handling change results when laundered by any
Hand Washing (see 12.3) and ISO 6330, materials in this test method. Manufac- procedure. In such cases, it is recom-
Textiles — Domestic washing and drying turers MUST be consulted for specific mended that distorted garments not be
procedures for textile testing (see 12.7). details such as material safety data sheets tested.
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.1.3 Prior to marking, condition test
tions. All OSHA standards and rules specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,
1. Purpose and Scope
must also be consulted and followed. Standard Practice for Conditioning and
1.1 This test method is for the determi- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should Testing Textiles (see 12.4). (Use condi-
nation of dimensional (length and width) be followed. Wear safety glasses in all tions indicated in Table 1 for Textiles,
changes of garments when subjected to laboratory areas. general. Estimate conditioning time as in-
home laundering procedures. Four wash- 4.2 Detergent may cause irritation. dicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-
ing temperatures, three agitation cycles, Care should be taken to prevent exposure ber content.) Hang each specimen on an
and four drying procedures provide stan- to skin and eyes. appropriate hanger. If the garment would
dard parameters to represent common 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- not normally be hung on a hanger; e.g., T-
home care options. dations should be followed when operat- shirts, boxer shorts, etc., lay each test
1.2 This method may not be applicable ing laboratory testing equipment. specimen flat, separately, on a screen or
to garments made of certain stretch fabrics. perforated shelves of a conditioning rack.
5. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.1) 6.2 Marking. Mark specimens without
2. Principle tension on a flat, smooth horizontal sur-
5.1 Standard washing machine (see Ta- face.
2.1 Pairs of benchmarks are applied to ble I and 12.2). 6.2.1 Using Table V as a guide for the
the garment before laundering. The dis- 5.2 Standard tumble dryer (see Table selection of garment specimen areas to
tance between each pair is measured be- III and 12.2) or facilities for drip/line dry- use as measurement sites, place bench-
fore laundering and remeasured after a ing. marks on the garment at the selected lo-
specified number of standard laundering 5.3 Conditioning facilities and condi- cations. Use at least three length and
cycles. Percent change is calculated. A tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- three width locations for marking bench-
negative value indicates shrinkage; a pos- rated shelves (see 12.3). marks on each garment specimen. Loca-
itive value indicates growth. A value 5.4 Balance with at least 5.0-kg or tion of benchmarks should be as agreed
close to zero indicates little or no change. 10.0-lb capacity. upon by the buyer and seller. If garment

298 AATCC TM150-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.2, 12.6)
Cycle (1) Normal (2) Delicate (3) Permanent Press
Water Level, L (gal) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1) 72 ± 4 (19 ± 1)
Agitation Speed, strokes/min. 86 ± 2 27 ± 2 86 ± 2
Washing Time, min. 16 ± 1 8.5 ± 1 12 ± 1
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 500 ± 15 500 ± 15
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 5±1 5±1
Wash Temp, °C (°F)1 (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5) (II) Cold: 27 ± 3 (80 ± 5)
(III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5) (III) Warm: 41 ± 3 (105 ± 5)
(IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5) (IV) Hot: 49 ± 3 (120 ± 5)
(V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) (V) Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5)
1
Due to US Department of Energy requirements, many washing machines use cooler water. An external control box may be used to override the machine set temperatures.

areas are sufficient, place 460-mm (18.0- Standard Reference Detergent to washing 7.2.2 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the
in.) benchmarks on the garment. Bench- machine as directed by washing machine washed load (test specimens and ballast)
mark distances used will depend on the manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
size of the garment. For some garments, is added directly to wash water, agitate ture control to generate the selected cycle
especially children’s clothing, sufficient briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agi- exhaust temperature (see Table III). Al-
area may require shorter benchmarks tation before adding wash load. low the dryer to run until the load is fully
such as 250-mm (10.0-in) or less. Bench- 7.1.5 Add wash load (test specimens dry. Remove specimens immediately.
marks must be at least 25 mm (1 in.) from and ballast), distributing evenly around 7.2.3 (B) Line/Hang Dry. Hang each
all edges or seams, except as described in center agitator. Restart wash cycle. specimen by two corners, with the fabric
6.2.2. 7.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried length in the vertical direction. Allow
6.2.2 Benchmarks across garment pan- (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle specimens to hang in still air at room
els (between or along garment seams) are before the water begins to drain from the temperature not greater than 26°C (78°F)
sometimes used such as, from side seam- final rinse cycle. Remove specimens until dry. Do not blow air directly on
to-side seam, the full length or width of a soaking wet. For specimens to be tumble specimens as it may cause distortion.
garment and in other selected garment lo- (A), line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, al- 7.2.4 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip-
cations. For these types of benchmarks, low washing to proceed through the final ping wet specimen by two corners, with
the measurement points should be clearly spin cycle. the fabric length in the vertical direction.
marked. 7.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa- Allow specimens to hang in still air at
6.2.3 Dimensional change results from rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, room temperature not greater than 26°C
different garment sizes, styles and/or taking care to minimize distortion. Pro- (78°F) until dry. Do not blow air directly
benchmark lengths may not be comparable. ceed to appropriate drying procedure. on specimens as it may cause distortion.
6.2.4 Benchmarks distances used must 7.2 Drying. 7.2.5 (D) Screen/Flat Dry. Spread each
be indicated in the report. 7.2.1 Select drying conditions from Ta- specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-
6.3 Original Measurements. Make all ble II. rated surface, removing wrinkles without
measurements without tension, on the distorting or stretching it. Allow speci-
same surface used for marking. mens to rest in still air at room tempera-
6.3.1 To improve the accuracy and pre- ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until
cision of the dimensional change calcula- Table II—Standard Drying Conditions dry. Do not blow air directly on speci-
tions based on the benchmarks applied to (A) Tumble Dry mens as it may cause distortion.
the garment in 6.2, measure and record (Ai) Tumble Dry Normal 7.2.6 For all drying methods, allow
the distance between each pair of bench- (Aii Tumble Dry Delicate specimens to dry completely before
marks with suitable tape or rule to nearest (Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press washing again.
millimeter or eighth or tenth of an inch. (B) Line/Hang Dry 7.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and
This is measurement A. If using a cali- (C) Drip Dry drying procedures for a total of 3 com-
brated template for marking and measur- (D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat plete cycles, or an agreed upon number of
ing in percent dimensional change di-
rectly, an initial measurement is not
needed. Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.2)
Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
7. Laundering Procedure Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
7.1 Washing.
7.1.1 Select washing conditions for
testing from Table I. Set washing ma-
chine controls to generate the selected cy- Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
cle parameters.
Type 1 Type 3
7.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist
of all specimens in the sample, plus Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
enough laundering ballast pieces to make
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.0 ± Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
0.2 lb). Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
7.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
machine to fill to specified water level. (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
7.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993 Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC TM150-2018t 299
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table V—Examples of Benchmark Locations cycles. A = Original dimension
7.3 Conditioning. B = Dimension after laundering
Type of Garment Benchmark Locations 7.3.1 After the final drying cycle is
Shirt Collar complete, condition test specimens as de- Average the dimensional change for
Collar Band scribed in 6.1.3. each measurement location made on all
Body Lengths 7.4 Ironing. test garments. If desired, calculate length
Sleeve Lengths 7.4.1 If the specimens are extremely and width averages separately to nearest
Width at Chest
wrinkled and the consumer would AL- 0.1% (see 12.5).
Cuffs
WAYS expect to iron a garment made 9.1.3 A final measurement smaller
Trousers Front Rise than the original measurement results in a
Back Rise from the fabric, test specimens may be
Inseams hand ironed prior to re-measurement of negative dimensional change, which is
Outseams benchmarks. shrinkage. A final measurement larger
Waist 7.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures ap- than the original measurement results in a
Seat propriate to the fibers in the fabric being positive dimensional change, which is
Coveralls Body Lengths ironed. See AATCC TM133, Test growth.
Front Rise Method for Colorfastness to Heat: Hot 9.2 Interpretation.
Back Rise
Inseams
Pressing, Table I, Safe Ironing Tempera- 9.2.1 If the dimensional change after
Underarm Lengths ture Guide (see 12.3). Exert the minimum one full laundering cycle as calculated in
Sleeve Lengths pressure necessary to remove wrinkles. 9.1, is within a specification previously
Shoulder 7.4.3 Due to the extremely high vari- agreed on, continue test procedure as di-
Waist ability of hand ironing procedures per- rected in 7.1-7.4 until an agreed upon
Chest formed by individual operators (no stan-
Seat Width number of cycles has been completed.
dard test method exists for hand ironing 9.2.2 If the dimensional change after
Boxer Shorts Overall Lengths
Front Rise
procedures), the reproducibility of di- one washing, drying, and, if used, hand
Back Rise mensional change results after hand iron- ironing cycle as calculated in 9.1 exceeds
Waist ing has been found to be extremely poor. a specification previously agreed on, ter-
Pajama Top Lengths Consequently, caution is advised when minate the test.
Sleeves comparing dimensional change results af-
Hem ter laundering and hand ironing, reported
Chest by different operators. 10. Report
Pajama Bottom Inseams 7.4.4 After ironing, condition test spec- 10.1 Report for each sample test:
Lengths imens as described in 6.1.3.
Hip 10.1.1 A description or identification
Waist of the sample.
8. Measurement
Shorts Lengths 10.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
Front Rise AATCC TM150-2018t.
Back Rise 8.1 After conditioning, lay each gar-
Leg Width ment without tension, on the same sur- 10.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
Inseam Width face used for marking and measuring in or Type 3.
Seat Width 6.2 and 6.3. 10.1.4 Number of laundering cycles
Waist 8.2 Measure and record the distance (default is 3 cycles, see 9.2).
Sweater Lengths between benchmarks or between marks 10.1.5 Laundering conditions, includ-
Sleeve Lengths made across garment panels to the near-
Chest ing washing machine cycle, wash tem-
Waist est millimeter, or eighth or tenth of an perature, drying procedure and tumble
Shoulders inch. This is measurement B. If using a drying temperature, if applicable. Alpha-
Slip Lengths scale calibrated in percent dimensional numeric designations may be used if they
Hem change, measure to nearest 0.5% or are clearly understood by all parties. For
Waist smallest increment on the scale and example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal
Hip record the percent dimensional change wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
Blouse Lengths directly. dry cycle.
Sleeve Lengths
Shoulders 10.1.6 If garments were distorted or
Chest 9. Calculation and Interpretation wrinkled in their original state.
Waist
9.1 Calculation. 10.1.7 If garments were hand ironed.
Skirt Lengths
9.1.1 If measurements were made di- 10.1.8 Any modifications of the test
Hem method. If laundering equipment or con-
Hip rectly in percent dimensional change, av-
Waist erage the measurements in each location ditions other than those specifically listed
made on the test garments after the first, in the test method were used, they must
Uniform/Dress Bodice Lengths
Skirt Lengths the third, or other specified number of be described in detail and noted as a mod-
Sleeve Lengths washing and drying cycles. ification of the standard method (see
Shoulders 9.1.2 If measurements were made to 12.6).
Chest the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth 10.2 Report for each garment location:
Waist
Hip of an inch (measurement B), calculate the 10.2.1 Direction measured, i.e., length
Hem dimensional change after the first and, or width.
Overalls Lengths the third or other specified washing and 10.2.2 Dimensional change, to the
Outseams drying cycle using equation 1: nearest 0.1%, with a minus sign (-) for
Front Rise
% DC = 100 (B – A)/A (Eq. 1) shrinkage or a plus (+) sign for growth
Back Rise (see 12.5).
Inseams
Waist where: 10.2.3 Distance between original
Seat Width DC = Dimensional change benchmarks, i.e., 250 mm or 460 mm.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

300 AATCC TM150-2018t AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
11. Precision and Bias of listing equipment and materials sold by its 12.4 Available from ASTM International,
Corporate members, but AATCC does not 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
11.1 Precision. Precision for this test qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
method has not been established. Until a tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
precision statement is generated, use als meets the requirements in its test methods. 12.5 If information on the dimensional
standard statistical techniques in making 12.2 For model number(s) of washer(s) and change variability between specimens is
any comparisons of test results for either tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard needed, calculate dimensional change based
parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers on the individual pairs of benchmarks.
within-laboratory or between-laboratory or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Re-
averages. search Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 12.6 The laundering temperatures and other
11.2 Bias. Dimensional changes in au- +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e- parameters listed in this test method are stan-
tomatic home laundering of garments can mail: ordering@aatcc. org. An alternate load dard conditions for testing purposes. As with
be defined only in terms of a test method. size was described in previous versions of this most lab procedures, they represent, but may
method (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g not exactly replicate, current consumer prac-
There is no independent method for de- tices. Consumer practices vary over time and
termining the true value. As a means of AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent),
but no machine is reported to meet the stan- among households; lab practices must be con-
estimating this property, the method has sistent to allow valid comparison of results. If
dard parameters for this load size. In addition,
no known bias. dimensional change results obtained with the laundering equipment or conditions other than
alternate load size may not be equal to those those specifically listed in this test method are
12. Notes obtained with a standard load size. used, they must be described in detail and
12.3 Materials or drawings are available noted as a modification of the standard
12.1 For potential equipment information from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Tri- method. Alternate laundering conditions are
pertaining to this test method, please visit the angle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; outlined in AATCC LP1, AATCC LP2 and
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. fax: +1.919.549. 8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc. ISO 6330.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility org; web site: www. aatcc.org. 12.7 Available from ISO, www.iso.org.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM150-2018t 301
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM154-2017e

Test Method for Thermal Fixation Properties of Disperse Dyes

Developed in 1978 by AATCC Commit- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5. Uses and Limitations
tee RA87; reaffirmed 1981, 2006, 2011; dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
editorially revised and reaffirmed 1986, sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.1 Evaluations by reflectance mea-
1991, 1996, 2001; editorially revised safe and proper techniques in handling surements are limited to relatively low
dye concentrations because of the non-
2008, 2010, 2019; revised 2017. materials in this test method. Manufac-
linearity of the K/S function at high dye
turers MUST be consulted for specific
concentrations (see 11.2).
details such as material safety data sheets
1. Purpose and Scope 5.2 Fixation values obtained by reflec-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- tance measurements can differ from those
1.1 This test method is used to deter- tions. All OSHA standards and rules determined by extraction techniques be-
mine the fixation properties of disperse must also be consulted and followed. cause of differences in dye distribution
dyes on polyester/cellulose blends as a 4.1 Good laboratory practices should within the fiber (see 11.2).
function of fixation conditions. The vari- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 5.3 Every effort should be made during
able described herein is temperature; laboratory areas. padding, drying and fixation to avoid two-
however, variations in time and/or con- 4.2 All chemicals should be handled sided dyeings. Should this occur to any
centration of dyes and/or auxiliaries may with care. significant extent, the preferred method of
be studied by this method. measuring fixation is extraction.
4.3 Perform leaching procedure (see
2. Principle 7.3) using sulfuric acid, 70%, in a hood.
In preparing, dispensing and handling 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.3)
2.1 The dye is padded onto the blend sulfuric acid, use chemical goggles or
fabric at a specified concentration; the face shield, impervious gloves and an im- 6.1 Laboratory padder.
fabric is dried and the dye is fixed by ex- pervious apron. Concentrated acids 6.2 Forced air thermofixation unit (see
posure to controlled conditions of time should be handled only in an adequately 11.4).
and temperature. The cotton portion of ventilated hood. CAUTION: Always add 6.3 Analytical balance.
the blend is dissolved in concentrated sul- acid to water. 6.4 Spectrophotometer (see 11.5).
furic acid followed by neutralization and 6.5 Volumetric pipettes and flasks.
thorough rinsing. 4.4 In preparing, dispensing and han- 6.6 65/35 polyester/cotton fabric; ade-
2.2 The reflectance values of the dyed dling ammonium hydroxide, use chemical quately pre-scoured and ready for dyeing.
fabrics, exposed to the several fixation goggles or face shield, impervious gloves 6.7 Sulfuric acid, 70%.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

conditions, are determined by spectro- and an impervious apron. Dispense, mix 6.8 Chlorobenzene.
photometry and the concentrations of dye and handle ammonium hydroxide only in 6.9 Ammonium hydroxide, 5%.
relative to the heaviest dyeing (as 100%) an adequately ventilated hood. 6.10 Acetic acid, 56%.
are evaluated by applying the Kubelka- 4.5 Perform the extraction procedure
Munk function (K/S). These results ex- (see 8.2) using chlorobenzene inside an
press the relative dye fixation for a partic- adequately ventilated hood. CAUTION: 7. Procedure
ular set of dyeing conditions. Alterna- Chlorobenzene vapors are toxic and 7.1 Pad polyester/cotton blend cloth at
tively, the dye on the fabric can be flammable. 50-60% wet pickup with:
extracted with a suitable solvent and the 4.6 Chlorobenzene is a flammable liq- 10 g/L—Disperse dye
concentrations of dye determined by uid and should be stored in the laboratory 20 g/L—Antimigrant (see 11.6)
transmittance spectrophotometry. When only in small containers away from heat, Acetic acid (56%) to pH 5.5-6.0
the dye concentrations on the fixed sam- open flame and sparks. Use the same pad liquor for all the dye-
ples are compared to the corresponding ings in the set.
concentration on a padded but unfixed 4.7 An eyewash/safety shower should
be located nearby and a self-contained 7.2 Dry each sample thoroughly under
sample, a measure of the true dye fixa-
breathing apparatus should be readily minimum migration conditions (see
tion, as a function of applied dye, may be
available for emergency use. 11.5), then thermofix for 90 s at 196°C
obtained.
(385°F), 205°C (400°F), 213°C (415°F)
4.8 Exposure to chemicals used in this and 221°C (430°F), respectively, in a
3. Terminology procedure must be controlled at or below properly calibrated oven (see 11.4).
levels set by governmental authorities 7.3 Leach out the cotton portion of the
3.1 disperse dye, n.—an essentially (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
water insoluble dye having affinity, when blend with 70% sulfuric acid for 3-4 min
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- at 55°C (130°F). Rinse the sample in cold
properly dispersed, for polyester, poly-
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR running water and neutralize with 5%
amide and some other manufactured
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov ammonium hydroxide solution for 1 min
polymeric fibers.
for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- followed by another cold water rinse.
3.2 thermal fixation, n.—the use of
dry heat to achieve a degree of perma- can Conference of Governmental Indus- 7.4 In cases where a change in shade of
nence when applying colorants to textile trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold a disperse dye is suspected due to leach-
materials. Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time ing, the following procedure may be em-
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short ployed: Attach a 100% polyester rider to
4. Safety Precautions term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and the blended cloth to be dyed by the
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended method in 7.1. Leach a portion of the
NOTE: These safety precautions are as a general guide for air contaminant ex- rider separately by the method described
for information purposes only. The pre- posure which should be met (see 11.1). in 7.3 and evaluate for any changes that

302 AATCC TM154-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
may occur in the leaching process. of minimum transmittance or maximum 11. Notes
absorption in the visible area of the spec-
8. Evaluation trum of the extracts of fixed samples are 11.1 Available from Publications Office,
compared to the corresponding measure- ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
8.1 Make reflectance measurements in ments of extracts of the padded, unfixed Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
the visible portion of the spectrum (see 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
sample (as 100%). Transmittance values
11.2) to determine relative strengths on are converted to absorbance values from 11.2 Refer to AATCC EP6, Evaluation Pro-
the leached polyester using the deepest cedure for Instrumental Color Measurement,
tables (see 11.8) or as follows: paragraph 4.3, Color Strength Value Using
dyeing fixed at 221°C (430°F) as 100%.
A = log10 (1/T) Reflectance Measurement, and 4.5, Relative
K/S values of the minimum reflectance Strength, available from AATCC Technical
value are obtained using the Kubelka- where: Center, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
Munk equation: A = the absorbance value Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax:
T = the transmittance value +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
2 org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
K/S = ( 1 – R ) /2R
Fixation values are calculated by the 11.3 For potential equipment information
where: following equation: pertaining to this test method, please visit
K/S = absorption function the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
R = minimum reflectance value (see Ai aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
C i = 100 × ------ (see 11.9) of listing equipment and materials sold by its
11.2) Au
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
Alternatively, K/S for a summation of where: qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
the visible wavelengths can be used for Ci = percent of dye fixed on sample i tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
the strength calculation. In the example Ai = absorbance of the extract of dye- als meets the requirements in its test methods.
above, the K/S value used is for the ing i 11.4 The equipment used should be care-
wavelength of minimum reflectance. Ei- Au = absorbance of the extract of the fully calibrated with respect to temperature,
ther K/S calculation method can be used, unfixed dyeing residence time and uniformity of air flow, and
should be named in the written report.
but the chosen method should be noted
by the user for replication by other users. 11.5 A continuous or abridged reflectance
9. Report spectrophotometer is suitable for measure-
Calculate the relative fixation values in
9.1 Fixation data obtained by the above ments at the wavelength of maximum absorp-
comparison to the deepest dyeing using tion (minimum reflectance).
the following equation: methods may be presented in graphic
form or in tabular form expressed as the 11.6 A number of suitable gums for this
( K/S ) i purpose are available; e.g., natural gums, algi-
percent of fixation versus temperature. nates and synthetic acrylic acid polymers. The
C i = 100 × ----------------------- (see 11.2) The effects of the time and/or dye con-
( K/S ) max use of electrolytes in the pad liquor is to be
centration may be shown as a family of avoided since the resulting agglomeration is
where: curves depending upon the objectives of very difficult to control.
Ci = percent of dye fixed on the particular study under consideration. 11.7 Some disperse dyes may be partially
sample i decomposed during the extraction and are not
(K/S)i = absorption function of dye- 10. Precision and Bias suitable for this procedure.
ing i 11.8 Refer to AATCC EP6, Evaluation Pro-
(K/S)max = absorption function of the 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test cedure for Instrumental Color Measurement,
deepest dyeing method has not been established. Until a paragraph 4.4, Color Strength Value Using
precision statement is generated, use Transmittance Measurement, and 4.5, Relative
8.2 As an alternate method of evalua- standard statistical techniques in making Strength, available from AATCC Technical
tion, an accurately weighed sample (250 any comparisons of test results for either Center, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
within-laboratory or between-laboratory Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919. 549.8141; fax:
mg) may be individually extracted in sev-
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc.
eral small portions of chlorobenzene at averages. org; web site: www.aatcc.org.
the boil (132°C or 270°F). When the dye 10.2 Bias. The thermal fixation prop-
11.9 As a general guide for obtaining
is completely removed from the sub- erty of a disperse dye can be defined only transmittance measurements, refer to A Gen-
strate, transfer the extract quantitatively in terms of a test method. There is no in- eral Procedure for the Determination of Rela-
to a volumetric flask and dilute with addi- dependent method for determining the tive Dye Strength by Spectrophotometric
tional chlorobenzene (see 11.7). Trans- true value. As a means of estimating this Transmittance Measurements, Textile Chemist
mittance measurements made at the point property, the method has no known bias. and Colorist, Vol., 4, No. 5, May 1972, p43.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM154-2017e 303
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM157-2022

Test Method for Colorfastness to Solvent Spotting

1. Purpose and Scope 4. Safety Precautions 7.2 Place blotting paper on the glass.
1.1 This test method is designed to NOTE: These safety precautions are 7.3 Apply 1.5 mL of solvent of choice
measure the degree of color migration for information purposes only. The pre- (by pipette) on the center of the test spec-
that occurs when a fabric is spotted with a cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- imen.
drycleaning solvent. dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 7.4 Let stand in air until dry; then eval-
1.2 Previous versions of this test sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use uate the staining on the blotting paper.
method were based on perchloroethylene safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac- 8. Evaluation Method for Staining
(often referred to as tetrachloroethene).
However, due to environmental, health turers MUST be consulted for specific 8.1 Rate the degree of stain on the blot-
and safety issues related to perchloroeth- details such as material safety data sheets ter using the AATCC 9-Step Chromatic
ylene, drycleaner associations and test and other manufacturer’s recommenda- Transference Scale (AATCC EP8) or In-
method organizations have been reviewing, tions. All OSHA standards and rules strumental Assessment of Degree of
evaluating, and approving alternatives. must also be consulted and followed. Staining (AATCC EP12) and record the
1.3 The present recognized alternatives 4.1 Good laboratory practices should numerical rating that corresponds to the
for cleaning of textile fabrics and garments be followed. Wear safety glasses in all appropriate one on it.
by organizations include hydrocarbon sol- laboratory areas.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 9. Report
vents, dibutoxymethane, decamethylpenta-
cyclosiloxane, and simulated wetcleaning. with care. 9.1 Cite the test method used and any
These solvent alternatives will be referred 4.3 Test should be run in a well venti- modifications.
to as “solvent of choice” (see 11.2). lated area such as under a hood. 9.2 Report the staining grade assigned
1.4 For users of this test method with per- 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should (see 8.1).
chloroethylene to evaluate the degree of be located nearby, and an organic vapor
color migration of disperse dyes, these pro- respirator should be readily available for 10. Precision and Bias
posed alternatives (see 1.3 and 5.5) are no- emergency use. 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test
ticeably less effective. At this time, only ace- 4.5 Exposure to chemicals used in this method has not been established. Until a
tone was found to be comparable to procedure must be controlled at or below precision statement is generated for this
perchloroethylene for disperse dye migration. levels set by governmental authorities method, use standard statistical tech-
1.5 During this period of transition (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health niques in making any comparisons of test
away from perchloroethylene, brands, Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- results for either within-laboratory or
wet processors of dyed and finished fab- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR between-laboratory averages.
rics, and testing laboratories should mu- 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 10.2 Bias. Colorfastness to solvent
tually agree on the “Solvent of Choice” to for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- spotting can be defined only in terms of a
use when evaluating for solvent spotting can Conference of Governmental Indus- test method. There is no independent
of textile products using this test method. trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold method for determining the true value.
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time As a means of estimating this property,
2. Principle weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short the method has no known bias.
2.1 A specimen, attached to a piece of term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
white blotting paper, is placed face side up ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 11. Notes
on a glass plate. The solvent of choice is as a general guide for air contaminant
11.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
placed on the center of the specimen. The exposure which should be met. 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
test is carried out at room temperature. The 5. Apparatus, Materials and Reagents +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
staining of the blotting paper is evaluated. [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
5.1 Pipette, graduated to deliver 1.5 mL. 11.2 The solvent of choice may include
3. Terminology 5.2 Plate, glass. hydrocarbon solvents (CAS 64742-48-9),
5.3 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- dibutoxymethane (CAS 2568-90-3), decamethyl-
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 11.1). pentacyclosiloxane (CAS 541-02-6), and sim-
a material to change in any of its color 5.4 White AATCC Textile Blotting ulated washing (to be determined by users).
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- Paper (see 11.1).
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 5.5 The present solvent of choice is 12. History
result of the exposure of the material to represented in 11.2. 12.1 Revised in 2022 to provide replace-
any environment that might be encoun- ment chemistries for perchloroethylene, and
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 6. Test Specimen title change.
age or use of the material. 6.1 Piece of dyed fabric, 25 × 25 mm 12.2 Editorially revised 2020 to add History
3.2 migration, n.—the nonuniform (1 × 1 in.). section and change Jurisdiction.
movement and distribution of dyes, pig- 12.3 Editorially revised 2019; reaffirmed
ments, finishes or other materials from 7. Procedure 2017; revised 2016; editorially revised and re-
one part of a material to another. 7.1 Attach test specimen to the center affirmed 2010; reaffirmed 2005; editorially re-
3.3 spotting, n.—in cleaning, applica- of a 150 × 150 mm (6 × 6 in.) piece of vised 2002, and 2001; reaffirmed 2000;
tion of solvent or solution to a material white blotting paper. Make sure the sam- editorially revised and reaffirmed 1995; reaf-
prior to or after commercial scouring, ple is flat against the blotting paper. If firmed 1990. Editorially revised, 1986. Edito-
rially revised and reaffirmed 1985 and 1981.
laundering, or drycleaning to remove or necessary, staple the edges of the fabric
12.4 Developed in 1985 by Committee
enhance removal of soil or stains in a down to keep the sample flat on the blot- RA92. Jurisdiction transferred to Committee
local area. ting paper. RA87 in 2020.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

304 AATCC TM157-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2022
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM158-1978e10(2016)e

Test Method for Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning

in Perchloroethylene: Machine
Developed in 1978 by AATCC Commit- ing operation. When it is desired to deter- goggles or face shield, impervious gloves
tee RA43; editorially revised and reaf- mine the amount of progressive and an impervious apron when handling
firmed 1979, 1985, 1995, 2011; dimensional change, the method may be perchloroethylene.
editorially revised 1986, 1991, 1993, repeated a specified number of times, 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should
2004, 2008, 2010, 2019; reaffirmed normally not exceeding five cycles. be located nearby and an organic vapor
1990, 2000, 2005, 2016. Partly equiva- respirator should be readily available for
lent to ISO 3175. 2. Principle emergency use.
4.5 The drycleaning apparatus should
2.1 Conditioned fabrics or garments be ventilated to the outside atmosphere in
Foreword are marked and measured, then subjected accordance with the manufacturer’s in-
to a drycleaning procedure, followed by structions.
Drycleaning, a process for cleaning an appropriate finishing procedure. They 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this
textiles in an organic solvent, dissolves are afterwards conditioned and measured. procedure must be controlled at or below
oils and fats and disperses particulate dirt The dimensional change is expressed as a levels set by governmental authorities
substantially without the swelling and percentage of the original dimensions. (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
creasing associated with washing or wet
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
cleaning. Small quantities of water and 3. Terminology posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
surfactant may be incorporated in the sol-
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
vent to obtain better soil and stain re- 3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
moval. Some moisture-sensitive articles neric term for variation in length or width can Conference of Governmental Indus-
are preferably drycleaned without the ad- of a garment or fabric specimen subjected trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
dition of water to the solvent but a surfac- to specified conditions. Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
tant can be used in order to assist soil re- 3.2 drycleaning, n.—the cleaning of weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
moval and prevent graying. Different fabrics with organic solvents such as pe- term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
solvents can be used for drycleaning, of troleum solvent, perchloroethylene or ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
which perchloroethylene (tetrachloroeth- fluorocarbon. as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
ylene) is the most common in many NOTE: The process also includes add-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
posure which should be met (see 13.2).
countries. For this reason, the present ing detergent and moisture to the solvent,
method prescribes the use of perchloroeth- up to 75% RH, and hot tumble drying to
ylene. Drycleaning is normally followed 5. Reagents
71°C (160°F).
by an appropriate restorative finishing 5.1 Perchloroethylene (commercial),
procedure. In most cases, this comprises 4. Safety Precautions CCl2 = CCl2, drycleaning grade.
some form of steam treatment and/or hot 5.2 Sorbitan mono-oleate (a typical
pressing. Dimensional change on dry- NOTE: These safety precautions are chemical is Span 80).
cleaning and steaming and/or pressing is for information purposes only. The pre-
progressive, and in some cases a single cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6. Apparatus and Materials
treatment may give little indication of the dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
extent of dimensional change that may sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 6.1 Drycleaning machine. This shall
arise after repeated treatments. Generally, safe and proper techniques in handling consist of a commercial rotating cage
most of the potential dimensional change materials in this test method. Manufac- type, totally enclosed machine for use
is released after 3-5 drycleaning and fin- turers MUST be consulted for specific with perchloroethylene. The diameter of
ishing treatments. details such as material safety data sheets the rotating cage shall be not less than
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 600 mm and not more than 1080 mm. Its
1. Purpose and Scope tions. All OSHA standards and rules depth shall be not less than 300 mm. It
must be consulted and followed. shall be fitted with three or four lifters.
1.1 This test method specifies a dry- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should The speed shall be such as to give a g-
cleaning procedure, using a commercial be followed. Wear safety glasses in all factor (see 13.3) between 0.5 and 0.8 for
drycleaning machine, for the determina- laboratory areas. cleaning and between 35 and 120 for ex-
tion of dimensional change of fabrics and 4.2 All chemicals should be handled traction. The machine shall be equipped
garments after drycleaning in perchloro- with care. with a thermometer for the measurement
ethylene. It comprises processes for nor- 4.3 Perchloroethylene is toxic by inha- of the solvent temperature. The machine
mal materials and sensitive materials (see lation, by repeated contact with the skin shall have suitable facilities so that the
13.1). and by ingestion; it should be used only emulsion can be introduced gradually
1.2 Very sensitive materials, which can in a well vented atmosphere. Toxicology into the solvent between the inner and
be cleaned only when special precautions studies with laboratory animals have outer cages below the level of the sol-
are taken, are excluded from the scope of shown evidence of cancer in rats and vent. The machine may be of the single-
this method (see 13.1). mice exposed to perchloroethylene va- unit washer/dryer type or a separate dryer
1.3 The test method is intended only pors at 100-400 ppm concentrations for may be used. Both types of dryers shall
for the assessment of dimensional prolonged times. Fabric saturated with be equipped with temperature control of
changes undergone by a specimen sub- this solvent should be dried in an ade- either the incoming or the outgoing air
jected to a single drycleaning and finish- quately ventilated hood. Use chemical during the drying cycle. (Information on

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM158-1978e10(2016)e 305
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
solvent recovery is given in 13.4.) The garment as such exceeds 10% of the total a pressure of 370-490 kPa2 (3.8-5 kg/cm2)
dimensions of the rotating drum of the load. (oven-pressure) or steaming on a steam/air
separate dryer shall comply with those When loaded into the machine, the garment former for 5-20 s followed by
given for the drycleaning machine. specimen(s) and the ballast shall be in drying with warm air for 5-20 s.
6.2 Apparatus for applying the appro- equilibrium with the standard atmosphere 9.1.10 Condition the specimen accord-
priate finishing treatment to the test spec- for testing textiles. Equilibrium is ing to 8.1 and measure, according to 8.2,
imen. deemed to be attained after exposure for the distances previously marked and
6.3 Means of producing the standard 24 h to this atmosphere. measured.
atmosphere for testing textiles. 9.1.2 Place the conditioned load in the 9.2 Procedure for sensitive materials.
6.4 Ballast consisting of clean textile machine and introduce perchloroethylene 9.2.1 Proceed as in 9.1.1 but use a total
pieces or garments. These shall be white containing l g/L of sorbitan mono-oleate load of mass 33 ± 2 kg for each cubic
or a light color and consist of about 80% so that the liquor ratio, calculated on the meter of the volume of the inner cage.
wool and 20% cotton or rayon. volume of solvent in the outer and inner 9.2.2 Proceed as in 9.1.2 but increase
6.5 Pen and ink (indelible) or other cages, is 6.5 ± 0.5 L for each kg of load the amount of solvent to 10 ± 1 L/kg of
suitable marking device. (this corresponds to a solvent level of load (this gives about the same solvent
6.6 Stable measuring scale of dimen- about 30% of the inner cage diameter). level as in 9.1.2).
sions suitable for the article being tested, Maintain the solvent at 30 ± 3°C (86 ± 9.2.3 Proceed as in 9.1.3 but operating
graduated in millimeters. 5°F) throughout the cleaning operation. at solvent relative humidity of 63 ± 2%.
6.7 Flat table of dimensions such that 9.1.3 Prepare an emulsion by mixing 1 This means that no water emulsion addi-
the article being tested can be laid flat for part (by volume) of the sorbitan mono- tion is necessary.
measurement. oleate with 3 parts of perchloroethylene 9.2.4 Proceed as in 9.1.4 but reduce the
and then adding 2 parts of water (with running time to 10 min.
stirring). Start the machine with the filter 9.2.5 Proceed as in 9.1.5-9.1.10 but re-
7. Test Specimens circuit shut off and slowly (over a period duce the period of extraction at full ex-
7.1 Test garments as such. of not less than 2 min and not more than traction speed to 1 min.
7.2 Cut fabrics into test specimens 12 min) add an amount of emulsion cor- 9.2.6 Lay the specimen out according
responding to 2% of water calculated on
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

preferably not smaller than 500 × 500 to 8.2 and measure the distance between
mm and stitched on all sides with polyes- the mass of the load, to the machine be- marks to the nearest millimeter. Measure
ter thread to prevent ravelling. tween the inner and outer cages below the overall dimensions of garments to within
level of the solvent. ± 2 mm. Make all measurements in the
7.3 Carefully open elastic circular knits
by cutting in the direction of the ribs 9.1.4 Keep the machine running for 15 standard atmosphere for conditioning and
without causing distortion. After marking min after switching it on. The filter cir- testing textiles as given in 8.1.
and measuring according to Section 8, re- cuit test is not used during any part of this
store the circular state by sewing together test except the initial solvent fill in 9.1.2.
9.1.5 Drain the solvent and centrifu- 10. Calculation and Expression of
the cut edges. After the test, the seam Results
shall be cut again and distances between gally extract the solvent from the load for
markings determined in the open state. 2 min (at least 1 min being at full extrac-
10.1 Calculate the dimensional change
tion speed).
in the length and width directions of each
9.1.6 Introduce pure dry solvent at the fabric specimen or in the principal di-
8. Preparation of Specimens same liquor ratio (see 9.1.2) and rinse for mensions of a garment. Express as aver-
5 min. Drain and extract again for 3 min age percentage dimensional change,
8.1 Condition the test specimens and (at least 2 min being at full extraction
dummy load from the dry side at 21 ± rounded to the nearest 0.2%, using a
speed). minus sign to indicate shrinkage and a
2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH by lay- 9.1.7 Dry the load in the machine or in
ing each test specimen separately on a plus sign to indicate an increase in di-
a separate drying tumbler, by tumbling in mensions.
flat, smooth, horizontal surface for at circulating warm air for an appropriate
least 24 h. time, preferably using an automatic sol-
8.2 When marking fabric specimens, vent-dryness control. Either the outlet air 11. Test Report
lay out the specimen without tension on a temperature shall not exceed 60°C
flat, smooth surface, taking care to see (140°F), or the inlet temperature shall not 11.1 State that the tests were made in
that it is free from wrinkles and creases. exceed 80°C (176°F) (see 13.5). After accordance with this method and give the
Making three pairs of marks, each at least drying, blow air at ambient temperature following information:
250 mm apart in the length direction, and through the rotating load for 3-5 min. (a) Details of any optional or addi-
three similar pairs of marks in the width 9.1.8 Remove the specimens from ma- tional requirements that have been met.
direction of the fabric. If the specimen is chine immediately. Place garments indi- (b) Whether the procedure in 9.1 or
a garment, mark and measure different vidually on hangers and place fabric 9.2 was used.
parts of the outer fabrics and linings sepa- specimens on a flat surface for not less (c) The results obtained according to
rately. than 30 min before finishing. Section 10.
NOTE: If additional information on (d) The percentage by mass of speci-
stability to drycleaning only is required, men(s) in the load, and the type of mate-
9. Test Procedures rial comprising the ballast.
condition and remeasure the specimen at
9.1 Procedure for normal materials. this stage before completing the proce- (e) The maximum inlet or outlet air
9.1.1 The mass of the complete load dure. Note details of this procedure in the temperature during drying.
shall be 50 ± 2 kg for each cubic meter of test report. (f) Details of the finishing treatment
the volume of the inner cage. Ensure that 9.1.9 Carry out a finishing treatment by used.
the mass of the textile part of the test the method appropriate for the type of (g) The number of treatments given.
specimen(s) is not more than 10% of the garment or fabric under test. In most (h) Details of the dimensions of the
total load, the remainder consisting of the cases, this will involve pressing on a gar- garment or fabric specimen as required
ballast unless the mass of the test piece of ment (steam) press supplied with steam at by the method.

306 AATCC TM158-1978e10(2016)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Precision and Bias 13. Notes where:
n = the number of revolutions per min
12.1 Precision. Precision for this test 13.1 Examples of sensitive materials are
woolen knitwear; fur fabrics; crepes; open set, d = the diameter, in mm, of the rotating
method has not been established. Until a cage
loose spun wool fabrics; loom finished fab-
precision statement is generated, use
rics; boucles; Bedford cords; cavalry twills; 13.4 When using commercial drycleaning
standard statistical techniques in making raschel fabrics; chenille; cloque fabrics; pure
any comparisons of test results for either equipment, official regulations and normal
silk fabrics; etc. safety precautions should be observed.
within-laboratory or between-laboratory 13.2 Available from Publications Office,
averages. 13.5 Textiles made of, or containing, heat
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper sensitive fibers—for example, modacrylic fi-
12.2 Bias. Dimensional change on Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. bers—shall be dried at an outlet air tempera-
drycleaning in perchloroethylene by 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. ture not exceeding 40°C (104°F) [inlet air
machine can be defined only in terms of 13.3 The g factor is calculated according to temperature up to 60°C (140°F)]. Very heat
a test method. There is no independent the following formula: sensitive textiles, such as articles containing
method for determining the true value. As 2 polyvinyl chloride fibers, shall be removed
a means of estimating this property, the 5.6n d
g = --------------------------- from the machine after extraction and dried at
method has no known bias. 10,000,000 room temperature.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM158-1978e10(2016)e

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 307
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM159-2017e

Test Method for Transfer of Acid and Premetallized Acid Dyes on Nylon
Developed in 1979 by AATCC Commit- laboratory areas and a single-use dust res- 6. Procedure
tee RA87; editorially revised and reaf- pirator while handling powder dyes.
6.1 Fabric Preparation.
firmed 1984, 1989 (title change), 1994, 4.2 All chemicals should be handled 6.1.1 Scour undyed fabric in a bath
1999; editorially revised 1985, 1987, with care. Use chemical goggles or face containing 1.5 g/L nonionic surfactant
1997, 2004, 2010, 2019; reaffirmed shield, impervious gloves and an imper- (5.3) and 1.5 g/L sodium carbonate for 30
2006; revised 2011, 2017. vious apron when dispensing concen- min at 50-60°C.
trated acids and sodium hydroxide.
6.1.2 Rinse thoroughly in water.
4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should 6.1.3 Neutralize with acetic acid, 1
1. Purpose and Scope be located nearby and an organic vapor mL/L 56% acetic acid.
1.1 This test method evaluates the respirator with full facepiece should be
6.1.4 Final rinse in water.
transfer of an acid (anionic) or premetal- readily available for emergency use.
6.1.5 Air dry.
ized dye from a dyed to an undyed nylon 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this 6.2 Dyeing Procedure.
substrate under mock dyebath conditions. procedure must be controlled at or below
6.2.1 Set 30:1 bath at 38°C (100°F);
A general method of dyeing acid dyes on levels set by governmental authorities
X.XX% dye; 0.25% EDTA sequestrant
nylon is included for uniformity of dye- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
(omit for neutral premetallized dyes; and
ing procedure. Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
2.00% acetic acid [56%]).
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 6.2.2 Enter nylon substrate (cloth,
2. Principle yarn, stock) at 38-48°C.
for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
2.1 A test specimen of nylon fabric is can Conference of Governmental Indus- 6.2.3 Raise temperature to boil at
dyed to 1/1 standard depth with the dye to trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold 1.5°C/min.
be evaluated. Part of the dyed fabric to- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time 6.2.4 Dye at or near boil for 45 min.
gether with an equal weight of undyed weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short 6.2.5 If necessary, add an additional
fabric is subjected to transfer in a mock term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and 1.0% acetic acid (56%) to exhaust dye.
dyebath. ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 6.2.6 Run an additional 15 min.
2.2 Transfer is made at pH 4.5, 6.0 and as a general guide for air contaminant ex- 6.2.7 Rinse in hot 80-90°C water, then
7.5, and at a temperature of 95°C. posure which should be met (see 9.1). in 38°C water.
6.2.8 Air dry.
3. Terminology 6.3 Transfer Bath Preparation (see Ap-
5. Apparatus and Materials
pendix I).
3.1 acid dye, n.—an anionic dye hav-
5.1 Dyed nylon. 6.3.1 Prepare 200 mL mock dyebaths
ing substantivity for fibers which contain
5.2 Undyed nylon (from same piece as (one for each dye to be tested) for pH 4.5,
cationic groups usually in acidic or neu-
dyed sample). 6.0 and 7.5 as described in Appendix I.
tral aqueous dyebaths.
5.3 Nonionic surfactant. 6.3.2 Add one 5 g piece of dyed fabric
3.2 premetallized acid dye, n.—an
5.4 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3). and one 5 g piece of undyed fabric to
acid dye manufactured by reacting an
5.5 Phosphoric acid (usually 85%) each mock dyebath; B/F = 20/1.
equivalent of a suitable metal ion with
(H3PO4). 6.3.3 It has been shown that the degree
one equivalent of a dye (1:1 premetal-
5.6 Acetic acid, glacial (CH3COOH). of agitation is a contributing factor affect-
lized acid dye), or with two equivalents
5.7 Boric acid (H3BO3). ing the rate of diffusion of dyes into and
of the same or different dyes (1:2 premet-
out of a substrate. Agitation should be the
allized acid dyes), capable of chelating 5.8 Sodium hydroxide (NaOH).
same for all comparative experiments.
the metal. 5.9 Acetic acid, 56% (CH3COOH). 6.3.4 Raise temperature at 2°C/min to
3.3 transfer, n.—in textile processing, 5.10 EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraace- 95°C/min (5°F/min to 203°F/min) and
testing, storage and use, movement of a tic acid, tetrasodium salt, 100% powder). run with agitation for 50 min. Save the
chemical, dye or pigment between fibers 5.11 Means of evaluating color change bath (see 6.3.6).
within a substrate or between substrates of specimen.
(see also migration, leveling). 6.3.5 Remove both pieces of fabric.
5.11.1 Gray Scale for Color Change Rinse with water and air dry.
(AATCC EP1) (see 9.2), or 6.3.6 Measure pHs of part of the trans-
4. Safety Precautions 5.11.2 Spectrophotometer meeting any fer baths at room temperature and record
NOTE: These safety precautions are one of the geometric definitions de- in the table attached.
for information purposes only. The prescribed in CIE publication 15.2, 6.3.7 Add a piece of undyed nylon to
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- subclause 1.4 (see 9.3). the transfer bath and exhaust using the
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.12 Means of evaluating color stain- conditions outlined in 6.3.4. Adjust pH to
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ing on specimen
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

4.5 to accomplish. Record pH in table.

safe and proper techniques in handling 5.12.1 Gray Scale for Staining
materials in this test method. Manufac- (AATCC EP2) (see 9.2), or 7. Evaluation and Reporting
turers MUST be consulted for specific 5.12.2 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic
details such as material safety data sheets Transference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 7.1 Comparison of Dyes at pH 4.5.
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 9.2), or 7.1.1 For best observations, samples
tions. All OSHA standards and rules 5.12.3 Spectrophotometer meeting any should be butted together on white board
must also be consulted and followed. one of the geometric definitions de- as shown in Fig. 1.
4.1 Good laboratory practices should scribed in CIE publication 15.2, 7.1.2 Mount pH 6.0 and 7.5 samples
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all subclause 1.4 (see 9.3). similarly.

308 AATCC TM159-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Fig. 1—Mounting for comparison of dyes at pH 4.5.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Fig. 2—Mounting for comparison of Dye A at pH 4.5, 6.0, and 7.5.

7.2 Comparison of Dye A at pH 4.5, method has not been established. Until a Appendix I
6.0 and 7.5. precision statement is generated for this Preparation of Buffered Mock Dyebaths
7.2.1 Mount samples on white board as method, use standard statistical tech-
shown in Fig. 2. niques in making any comparisons of test A1. Prepare two solutions as follows
7.2.2 Mount Dye B and Dye C samples results for either within-laboratory or using distilled water (tap water can be
similarly. between-laboratory averages. used if distilled water is not available):
7.3 Comparison of Shade. SOLUTION A—5 g phosphoric acid
8.2 Bias. The transfer of acid and pre- (100%); 2.4 g acetic acid (100%); and
7.3.1 Rate the degree of color differ- metalized acid dyes on nylon can be de-
ence between “to” and “from” samples 1.76 g boric acid (HBO2 100%). Make to
fined only in terms of a test method. 1L of solution.
using the Gray Scale for Color Change There is no independent method for de-
(AATCC EP1) or AATCC EP7, Instru- termining the true value. As a means of SOLUTION B—8 g sodium hydroxide.
mental Assessment of the Change in estimating this property, the method has Make to 1L of solution.
Color of a Test Specimen (see 9.2). no known bias. A1.1 Prepare mock dyebaths as shown
Record the appropriate rating. in Table I using a pH meter. The amount
7.4 Exhaust Example Evaluation. of Solution B required to obtain the de-
7.4.1 Rate the degree of staining on the 9. Notes sired pH may vary slightly. Add Solution
“Exhaust” sample using the Gray Scale B to Solution A, checking end point with
9.1 Available from Publications Office, pH meter. Dilute to 600 mL with deion-
for Staining (AATCC EP2) or AATCC 9- ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
Step Chromatic Transference Scale Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. ized water. This is sufficient for three
(AATCC EP8) or AATCC EP12, Instru- 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. mock dyebaths at each pH value.
mental Assessment of Degree of Staining 9.2 Available from AATCC Technical Cen-
(see 9.2). Record the appropriate numeri- ter, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park Table I—Preparation of Mock Dyebaths
cal rating. NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
7.5 Record type of nylon and manufac- 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web Solution Solution Solution
turer on all test boards. site: www.aatcc.org. A B C
9.3 CIE Publication 15:2004 Colorimetry,
3rd Edition. Available through the US Na- pH 4.5 100 mL ca. 35 mL 600 mL
8. Precision and Bias
tional Committee of the CIE or via the CIE pH 6.0 100 mL ca. 50 mL 600 mL
8.1 Precision. Precision for this test webshop (www.techstreet.com/cie/). pH 7.5 100 mL ca. 10 mL 600 mL

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM159-2017e 309
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM161-2018e

Test Method for Color Change of Disperse Dyes Caused by

Metals, with and without Chelating Agent
Developed in 1983 by AATCC Committee
RR90; editorially revised 1985, 1988
(with title change), 2004, 2008, 2010,
2019; editorially revised and reaffirmed
1986, 1987, 1992, 2002, 2012; reaf-
firmed 2007; revised 2018.

1. Purpose and Scope

1.1 This test method provides a labora-
tory procedure for:
1.1.1 Determining the effectiveness of
chelating agents in disperse dyebaths for
inactivating heavy metals that can cause
color change.
1.1.2 Evaluating the sensitivity of dis- Fig. 1
perse dyes to metal-induced color change
during dyeing.

2. Principle
2.1 The effectiveness of chelating
agents in sequestering metals in a dye-
bath, thereby preventing metal-induced
color change, is determined by the proto-
col in Fig. 1.
2.2 Metal sensitivity of disperse dyes is
determined by comparing control dyes and
test dyes by the protocol shown in Fig. 2.

3. Terminology Fig. 2
3.1 chelating agent, n.—in textile
chemistry, a chemical capable of de-
activating metal ions by formation of a 4. Safety Precautions dling acetic acid and phosphoric acid, use
water-soluble complex. SYN: sequestering chemical goggles or face shield, impervi-
agent. NOTE: These safety precautions are ous gloves and an impervious apron.
3.2 color change, n.—as used in col- for information purposes only. The pre- Concentrated acids should be handled
orfastness testing, a change in color of cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- only in an adequately ventilated labora-
any kind whether in lightness, hue or dures and are not intended to be all inclu- tory hood. CAUTION: Always add acid
chroma, or any combination of these, dis- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use to water.
cernible by comparing the test specimen safe and proper techniques in handling 4.5 Carriers vary in toxicity depending
with a corresponding untested specimen. materials in this test method. Manufac- on type. Read vendors technical data,
3.3 grade, n.—the number assigned to turers MUST be consulted for specific SDS and/or product label for contents
a test specimen resulting from compari- details such as material safety data sheets and/or OSHA hazard classification.
son to a scale. and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 4.6 An eyewash/safety shower should
3.4 Gray Scale, n.—a scale consisting tions. All OSHA standards and rules be located nearby and a high efficiency
of pairs of standard gray chips, the pairs must also be consulted and followed. particulate respirator with a full facepiece
representing progressive differences in 4.1 Good laboratory practices should should be readily available for emer-
color or contrast corresponding to numer- be followed. Wear safety glasses in labo- gency use.
ical colorfastness grades. ratory areas. 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this
NOTE: Gray Scale grades are ex- 4.2 Pressurized dyeing equipment is procedure must be controlled at or below
pressed as half-steps in decimal form required for some dyeing. Trained per- levels set by governmental authorities
(e.g., 1 or 1.5). Dashed form is also ac- sonnel should exercise care and follow [e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
ceptable (e.g., 1 or 1-2). the equipment manufacturer’s instruc- Administration’s (OSHA) permissible ex-
3.5 metal sensitivity, n.—the propen- tions for use and safety precautions. posure limits (PEL) as found in 29 CFR
sity of a dye to produce an abnormal 4.3 All chemicals should be handled 1910.1000; see www.osha.gov for latest
color on a textile material when in the with care. version]. In addition, the American Con-
presence of certain metal ions. 4.4 In preparing, dispensing and han- ference of Governmental Industrial Hy-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

310 AATCC TM161-2018e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
gienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val- 8. Specimens 10.5 Pre-wet specimens in distilled wa-
ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted ter. Squeeze to remove excess water. Add
averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo- 8.1 Cut equal-weight specimens of to the dyebath with stirring.
sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim- polyester test fabric. A convenient weight 10.6 Use a pH meter to adjust dyebath,
its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen- for each specimen is 10 g. including specimen, to pH 5.0 with acetic
eral guide for air contaminant exposure 8.2 Create dye and auxiliary solutions acid (see 14.13).
which should be met (see 14.1). as described in Section 9. 10.7 Load pressure-dyeing containers
into appropriate equipment. Load atmo-
5. Uses and Limitations 9. Preparation of Reagents spheric boil dyeings into suitable dyeing
9.1 Dye solutions (for each control and apparatus.
5.1 Accurate results and expected 10.8 Raise to dyeing temperature at
test dye).
shade changes depend on the metal dye 2.2°C/min (4°F/min.)
9.1.1 Weight accurately 2.0 g of dye
and carrier used, as well as close control 10.8.1 Run atmospheric dyeings at the
(see 14.8).
of all dyeing parameters. boil for 60 min.
9.1.2 Measure 100 mL of distilled wa-
5.2 Extraneous metal contamination 10.8.2 Run pressure dyeings for 30
ter and heat to 49-60°C (120-140°F). Add
can give misleading results. Use clean min at 130°C (265°F).
a small quantity of this water to the dye.
fabrics, distilled water, and rinse the dye 10.9 Cool and remove dye containers.
9.1.3 Paste well with a clean stirring
containers with a 10% phosphoric acid so- 10.11 Afterscour specimens 10 min at
rod until the dye is dispersed. Add sev-
lution followed by a distilled water rinse. 71°C (160°F) with:
eral aliquots of the warm water with stir-
5.3 To avoid erroneous conclusions, 1.0% owf nonionic detergent
ring.
test conditions must be established with 2.0% owf sodium carbonate
9.1.4 Dilute to 1000 mL with distilled
dyes of known metal sensitivity to verify 10.12 Rinse.
water to give a 2.0 g/L dye dispersion.
that the expected shade change can be ob- 10.13 Neutralize to pH 7 ± 0.5 with
9.2 Cupric sulfate solution. acetic acid.
tained. Some samples of control dyes or 9.2.1 Weigh accurately 2.51 g of cupric
carriers, or certain dyeing conditions, 10.14 Rinse (distilled water optional
sulfate. for after scour).
may not produce the expected shade 9.2.2 Prepare a solution in 1000 mL of
change. 10.15 Dry.
distilled water. This will result in a solu-
5.4 This test method is not intended for tion of 1.0 g/L metal ions (see 13.9).
use with disperse dyes in combination 9.3 Ferrous ammonium sulfate solu- 11. Evaluation
with other dye classes that may contain tion. 11.1 Make all comparisons as directed
metal complexes potentially damaged by 9.3.1 Weigh accurately 7.02 g of fer- in AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7. Use
chelating agents. rous ammonium sulfate. “control” dyeings in place of original
9.3.2 Prepare a solution in 1000 mL of specimens. Use dyeings “with metal” and
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.2) distilled water. This will result in a solu- “with metal and chelating agent” as test
tion of 1.0 g/L metal ions (see 14.9 and specimens.
6.1 Test fabric, clean 100% polyester 14.10). 11.2 Compare C.I. Disperse Red 60
fabric (filament or staple), desized (as 9.4 Carrier solution. and C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 dyeings
needed) and prescoured (see 14.3). 9.4.1 Weigh accurately the carrier (see “with metal” to the relevant “control”
6.2 Control dyes, C. I. Disperse Red 60 14.11). dyeings (see 14.4). If there is no color
and C. I. Disperse Yellow 42 (see 14.4). 9.4.2 Prepare a 50.0 g/L carrier solu- difference, repeat the test, with dye from
6.3 Test dyes. tion using distilled water. another manufacturer, if necessary.
6.4 Cupric sulfate (CuSO4), MW 9.5 Chelating agent solution. 11.3 To evaluate the effectiveness of
159.606. 9.5.1 Weigh accurately the chelating chelating agents:
6.5 Ferrous ammonium sulfate agent (see 14.12). 11.3.1 Compare C.I. Disperse Red 60
(Fe(NH4)2 (SO4)2 · 6H2O), MW 392.158. 9.5.2 Prepare a 10.0 g/L chelating and C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 dyeings
6.6 Carrier (see 14.5). agent solution using distilled water. “with metal and chelating agent” to rele-
6.7 Chelating agent (see 14.6). vant “control” dyeings. Little or no color
6.8 Distilled water. 10. Procedure change indicates effective sequestering of
6.9 Acetic acid (CH3COOH), 99.7%. metals.
10.1 To test the effectiveness of chelat- 11.4 To evaluate metal sensitivity of
6.10 Phosphoric acid (H3PO4), 85%. ing agents in sequestering metals in a test dyes:
6.11 Dyeing apparatus, capable of pro- dyebath to prevent metal-induced color 11.4.1 Compare test-dye dyeings “with
viding good agitation and uniform tem- change, perform dyeings with C.I. Dis- metal and chelating agent” to relevant
perature control. perse Red 60 and C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 “control” dyeings.
6.12 AATCC Gray Scale for Color under “control,” “with metal,” and “with
Change (AATCC EP1) (see 14.7) or metal and chelating agent” conditions 12. Report
spectrophotometer as specified in (see Fig. 1 and Tables I and II.)
AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment 10.2 To test metal sensitivity of dis- 12.1 Test report should include, at a
of the Change in Color of a Test Speci- perse dyes, perform dyeings with C.I. minimum:
men. Disperse Red 60, C.I. Disperse Yellow 12.1.1 A description or identification
42, and test dyes under “control” and of each dye and chelating agent tested.
7. Sampling “with metal” conditions (see Fig. 2 and 12.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
Tables I and II.) AATCC TM161-2018e.
7.1 Cut one specimen of polyester test 10.3 Prior to dyeing, rinse all dyeing 12.1.3 Gray Scale for Color Change
fabric for each dyeing required (see Figs. containers with a 10% solution of phos- grade for each dyeing. If dyeings are per-
1 and 2). phoric acid followed by distilled water formed in replicate, report average grade
7.2 Use the same dye, metal, carrier, rinse. for each dyebath composition.
and chelating agent solutions for all dye- 10.4 Prepare dyebaths according to Ta- 12.1.4 Any modifications of the test
ings, as needed. ble I and/or Table II. method.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM161-2018e 311
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Atmospheric Dyebath Composition (See 14.14)
Control
Parameters C.I. Disperse Red 60
Fabric 10 g
Water 259 mL
Carrier Solution (see 9.4)a 8.0% (16 mL)
Dye Solution (see 9.1)b 0.5% (25 mL)
Liquor Ratioc 30:1
with Metal (No Chelating Agent)
Cupric C.I. Disperse Red 60 Ferrous C.I. Disperse Red 60
Fabric 10 g 10 g
Water 256 mL 181 mL
Metal Solution (see 9.2 and 9.3) 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL)
Carrier Solution (see 9.4) 8.0% (16 mL) 8.0% (16 mL)
Dye Solution 0.5% (25 mL) 2.0% (100 mL)
Liquor Ratio 30:1 30:1
with Metal & Chelating Agent
Cupric C.I. Disperse Red 60 Ferrous C.I. Disperse Red 60
Fabric 10 g 10 g

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Water 251 mL 176 mL
Chelating Agent Solution (see 9.5) 0.5% (5 mL) 0.5% (5 mL)
Metal Solution 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL)
Carrier Solution 8.0% (16 mL) 8.0% (16 mL)
Dye Solution 0.5% (25 mL) 2.0% (100 mL)
Liquor Ratio 30:1 30:1

NOTE: Perform all atmospheric dyeings at the boil, 100°C (212°F), for 60 min.
a
Use an appropriate carrier and amount with adjusted amounts of distilled water as necessary.
b
Dye concentrations were selected to yield maximum shade change.
c
A 30:1 liquor ratio was selected for laboratory convenience. Prior evaluations indicated no appreciable difference among 10:1, 20:1 and 30:1 liquor ratios.

Table II—Pressure Dyebath Composition (See 14.14)

Control
Parameters C.I. Disperse Red 60 C.I. Disperse Yellow 42
Fabric 10 g 10 g
Water 275 mL 275 mL
Dye Solution (see 9.1)a 0.5% (25 mL) 0.5% (25 mL)
Liquor Ratiob 30:1 30:1
with Metal (No Chelating Agent)
Cupric C.I. Disperse Red 60 Cupric C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 Ferrous C.I. Disperse Red 60
Fabric 10 g 10 g 10 g
Water 272 mL 272 mL 189 mL
Metal Solution (see 9.2 and 9.3) 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL)
Carrier Solution (see 9.4)c No Carrier No Carrier 4.0% (8 mL)
Dye Solution 0.5% (25 mL) 0.5% (25 mL) 2.0% (100 mL)
Liquor Ratio 30:1 30:1 30:1
with Metal & Chelating Agent
Fabric Cupric C.I. Disperse Red 60 Cupric C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 Ferrous C.I. Disperse Red 60
Water 10 g 10 g 10 g
Chelating Agent Solution (see 9.5) 267 mL 267 mL 184 mL
Metal Solution 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL) 10 ppm (3 mL)
Carrier Solution No carrier No Carrier 4.0% (8 mL)
Dye Solution 0.5% (25 mL) 0.5% (25 mL) 0.5% (25 mL)
Liquor Ratio 30:1 30:1 30:1

NOTE: Perform all dyeings under pressure at 130°C (265°F), for 30 min.
a
Dye concentrations were selected to yield maximum shade change.
b
A 30:1 liquor ratio was selected for laboratory convenience. Prior evaluations indicated no appreciable difference among 10:1, 20:1 and 30:1 liquor ratios.
c
Use an appropriate carrier and amount with adjusted amounts of distilled water as necessary.

312 AATCC TM161-2018e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
13. Precision and Bias gested. mentation.
14.4 C.I. Disperse Red 60 or Disperse Yel- 14.10 The ferrous salt solution is unstable
13.1 Precision. Precision of this low 42 dyes from different manufacturers may and will form a precipitate on standing. Make
method has not been established. Until a yield different results. Control dyeings are up fresh daily.
precision statement is generated for this necessary to verify that shade change is possi- 14.11 With C.I. Disperse Red 60 and fer-
method, use standard statistical tech- ble under the test dyeing conditions. If shade rous ions, some carriers may cause shade
niques in making any comparisons of test change does not occur, repeat the test. change due to dye dispersion breakage. An
results for either within-laboratory or be- 14.5 Tests were developed without carrier uneven, bluish-red color which crocks is char-
where possible. If essential to the test, carrier acteristic of this broken dispersion.
tween-laboratory averages.
is indicated. 14.12 Introduction of a sufficient amount of
13.2 Bias. The true value of disperse 14.6 EDTA was used in the establishment an EDTA chelating agent to dyebaths of C.I.
dye color change cause by metals can of this test method. Other commercially avail- Disperse Red 60 or Disperse Yellow 42 with
only be defined in terms of a test method. able chelating agents may give effective re- cupric or ferrous ions present has been found
Within this limitation, this method has no sults. Their effectiveness can be evaluated to give essentially the expected dyed shade
known bias. with this test method. without metals.
14.7 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 14.13 Calibrate the pH meter before use
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; with standard pH 4.0 and pH 7.0 buffer solu-
14. Notes +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; www. tions.
aatcc.org. 14.14 No appreciable shade change was
14.1 Available from: Publications Office, 14.8 If test dyes are to be evaluated, use test found to occur with C.I. Disperse Red 60 or
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper dye amounts to give a comparable depth of Disperse Yellow 42 at dyeing conditions other
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; +1. shade to that for concentrations of C.I. Dis- than those listed in Tables I and II. For exam-
513.742.2020; www.acgih.org. perse Red 60 and C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 ple, C.I. Disperse Yellow 42 did not show suf-
14.2 Use ACS reagent grade chemicals to dyes specified in Tables I and II. ficient shade change with iron or copper at the
minimize metal contamination. 14.9 Check the metal solutions before use. boil, or with iron under pressure to give a pos-
14.3 Fabric from mill production is sug- Discard if there is any flocculation or sedi- itive test.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM161-2018e 313
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM162-2011e2

Test Method for Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool

Developed in 1984 by Committee RA23. lated laboratory hood. CAUTION: Al- 6. Preparation of Reagents
Supersedes AATCC TM105-1975; edito- ways add acid to water.
rially revised 1985, 1995, 2008, 2010, 4.4 An eyewash/safety shower should 6.1 Deionized or distilled water to
2012, 2019; editorially revised and re- be located nearby and a high efficiency which 5 ppm chlorine and 100 ppm salts
affirmed 1986, 1997; reaffirmed 1991, particulate respirator with a full face- (hardness concentrate) are added; ad-
2002, 2009; revised 2011. Related to piece should be readily available for justed to 21°C (70°F) and pH 7.0 with
ISO 105-E03. emergency use. sodium carbonate or acetic acid.
4.5 Manufacturer’s safety recommen-
dations should be followed when operat- 7. Test Specimens
1. Purpose and Scope ing laboratory testing equipment. 7.1 Option 1-Accelerated Laundering
1.1 This test method is used for evalu- 4.6 Observe padder safety. Ensure ade- Machine.
ating the resistance to chlorinated pool quate guard at the nip point. Normal safe- 7.1.1 Specimen size 5 × 5 cm; control
water of dyed, printed or otherwise col- guards on pad should not be removed. A fabric size 5 × 5 cm. Total weight of spec-
ored textile yarns and fabrics of all kinds. foot-operated kickoff is recommended. imen and control fabric 1.0 ± 0.05 g.
4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this Multiple specimens of the same sample
2. Principle procedure must be controlled at or below can be used to achieve a 1.0 g load.
levels set by governmental authorities 7.2 Option 2-Drycleaning Cylinder
2.1 Yarn or fabric specimens are agi- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health Equipment.
tated at a fixed rate in diluted chlorine so- Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 7.2.1 Colored specimens, approxi-
lution under specified conditions of tem- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR mately 6 × 6 cm. Total weight of test
perature, time, pH and hardness. The 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov specimens should be 5.0 ± 0.25 g. If
dried specimens are evaluated for change for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- specimens to be tested do not weigh 5.0
in color. can Conference of Governmental Indus- g, add multiple specimens to make 5.0 g.
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold Include the Test Control Fabric in the 5.0
3. Terminology Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time g weight. Different colored specimens
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short can be mixed when making up the 5.0 g
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
a material to change in any of its color load.
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a posure which should be met (see 11.1).
8. Procedure
result of the exposure of the material to
any environment that might be encoun- 8.1 Solution Preparation.
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.2) 8.1.1 Add 800 mL deionized or dis-
age or use of the material. tilled water to a 1 L volumetric flask and
5.1 Equipment: add 8.24 g calcium chloride and 5.07 g
3.2 pool water, n.—water to which 5.1.1 Option 1-Accelerated laundering
various chemicals are added to maintain magnesium chloride while stirring to dis-
machine (see 7.1 and 11.3). solve. Bring volume up to 1 L with water.
purity and clarity, normally used for
5.1.2 Stainless steel lever lock canis- This is a “hardness concentrate” which
swimming.
ters Type 2, 1200 mL, 90 × 200 mL (3.5 can be retained and used for 30 days.
× 8.0 in.). 8.1.2 Dilute 51 mL hardness concen-
4. Precautions
5.2 Option 2-Drycleaning Cylinder trate to 5100 mL with deionized or dis-
NOTE: These safety precautions are (see 7.2 and 11.4). tilled water. Add 0.5 mL household so-
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.3 Wringer. dium hypochlorite solution which is no
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5.4 Gray Scale for Color Change more than 60 days old. Determine actual
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- (AATCC EP1) (see 11.6). ppm Cl by titration and adjust to 5 ppm
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.5 Test Control Fabric 162 (see 11.6). (see 11.7).
safe and proper techniques in handling 5.6 Reagents: 8.1.3 0.01N Sodium thiosulfate can be
materials in this test method. Manufac- 5.6.1 Household sodium hypochlorite purchased in this form or can be diluted
turers MUST be consulted for specific solution (NaOCl), approximately 5% 10 to 1 volumetrically from 0.1N solution.
details such as material safety data sheets available chlorine (see 11.5). 8.1.4 Adjust solution to pH 7.0 with
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.6.2 Calcium chloride, anhydrous sodium carbonate or acetic acid as
tions. All OSHA standards and rules (CaCl2). necessary.
must also be consulted and followed. 5.6.3 Magnesium chloride, hexahy- 8.2 Option 1-Accelerated Laundering
4.1 Good laboratory practices should drate (MgCl2 · 6H2O). Tester:
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 8.2.1 Place 1000 mL of solution (from
5.6.4 Sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 6N.
laboratory areas. 8.1) in the canister of the testing machine.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 5.6.5 Potassium iodide, KI, 12%. Adjust temperature to 21°C (70°F).
with care. 5.6.6 Starch solution, 1%. 8.2.2 Place specimen and control fabric
4.3 When using 6N sulfuric acid and 5.6.7 Sodium thiosulfate (Na2S2O3), in canister with solution. Specimen size 5
acetic acid, use chemical goggles or face 0.01N, (see 11.7). × 5 cm; control fabric size 5 × 5 cm. Total
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 5.6.8 Distilled or deionized water. weight of specimen and control fabric
vious apron. Concentrated acids should 5.6.9 Sodium carbonate (Na2CO3). 1.0 ± 0.05 g. Multiple specimens from
be handled only in an adequately venti- 5.6.10 Acetic acid (CH3COOH). the same sample can be used to achieve a

314 AATCC TM162-2011e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

9.1 Classify the change in color of the 11. Notes mL Na thiosulfate × 0.01N × 0.0355
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- × 100
Test Control Fabric 162 with the Gray 100 mL × sp. gr. Na hypochlorite
11.1 Available from Publications Office,
Scale for Color Change (AATCC EP1) or ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment (Specific gravity of household sodium hy-
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. pochlorite solution is 1.08. Using the above
of the Change in Color of a Test Speci-
equation, the use of 1.6 mL of sodium thiosul-
men. If the classification is not equivalent
fate in back titration would yield a result of
to a 2-3 or 3, the test is considered to be 0.0005% or 5.0 ppm.)
invalid. If classification is equivalent to a Table I—Computed Values of
2-3 or 3, proceed with 9.2. Precision for Colorfastness Rating 11.8 The precision of this test method is de-
pendent on the combined variability of the
9.2 Rate the change in color of test material being tested, the test method itself
No. of Within Between
specimens with the Gray Scale for Color Specimens Lab Lab and the evaluation procedure utilized.
Change (AATCC EP1), or using AATCC 11.8.1 The precision statement shown in
EP7, and record the numerical rating that 3 0.207 0.397
Section 10 was developed from results ob-
corresponds to the appropriate one on the 2 0.256 0.487 tained by visual and instrumental evaluations
Gray Scale (see 11.6 and 11.8). 1 0.357 0.689 (AATCC EP1 and AATCC EP7).

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM162-2011e2 315
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists and
- Ho Colorists
--``,`,,,``,,`

Test Method for Colorfastness to Storage: Dye Transfer

1. Purpose and Scope chemical, dye or pigment between fibers 7. Procedure
within a substrate or between substrates.
1.1 The storage of garments made with 7.1 Option I.
component parts of more than one shade 7.1.1 Immerse in distilled or deionized
4. Safety Precautions
sometimes results in the transfer of dye water at 24 ± 3°C (75 ± 5°F) both the mul-
from one area to another, normally from NOTE: These safety precautions are tifiber fabric and the fabric selected for the
the darker to the lighter shade. This phe- for information purposes and are not in- opposite side of the sandwich (see 5.4).
nomenon is distinct from sublimation be- tended to be all inclusive. It is the user’s The wet pickup of these fabrics should be
cause it occurs below the sublimation responsibility to use safe and proper tech- 100-110% (see 11.3). Do not wet out the
temperature of dyes as well as with non- niques in handling materials and equip- specimen to be tested to prevent removal
subliming dyes. ment in this test method. Manufacturers of dye or finish before testing begins.
1.2 Dye transfer occurs when garments MUST be consulted for specific details 7.1.2 Prepare a sandwich with the dyed
are folded with different shades in inti- such as material safety data sheets and test specimen between pre-wet multifiber
mate contact with each other. Normally other manufacturer’s recommendations. cloth and the pre-wet white swatch (see 5.4).
the amount of dye transferred is intensi- All OSHA standards and rules must also 7.1.3 Clamp the sandwich (prepared as
fied when moisture is present, and thus be consulted and followed. directed in 7.1.2) between two clean
the problem is more severe during warm, 4.1 Good laboratory practices should plates of the Perspiration Tester. Set the
humid weather or when garments are be followed. Wear safety glasses in all Perspiration Tester as instructed in 9.4.1
steamed immediately before storage. laboratory areas. of AATCC TM15, Colorfastness to Per-
Storage in plastic bags tends to maintain 4.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- spiration, except that the unit is not
the initial relative humidity of the gar- dations should be followed when operat- placed in an oven.
ment environment and can aggravate or ing laboratory testing equipment. 7.1.4 Enclose the Perspiration Tester in
reduce transfer depending on the condi- 4.3 Observe padder safety. Ensure ade- a polyethylene bag along with a dish (see
tion of the fabric when it enters the bag. quate guard at the nip point. Normal safe- 5.6) containing at least 50 mL of distilled
1.3 This test method is intended to esti- guards on pad should not be removed. A or deionized water to maintain high rela-
mate if color transfer might be expected foot-operated kickoff is recommended. tive humidity in the polyethylene bag.
to occur during prolonged periods of stor- Seal the opening in the bag with a twist
age. In general, no problems will be ex- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 11.1) tie or rubberband if zipping bag is not
pected under normal conditions of stor- used (see 5.2). Allow to remain 48 h at
age or time-delay, if color transfer does 5.1 Perspiration tester. room temperature (24 ± 3°C [75 ± 5°F]).
not occur under the conditions specified 5.2 Plastic bag, polyethylene, large Take care that the Perspiration Tester does
in Section 7 (Procedure). enough to contain perspiration tester. not fall into the water dish (see 11.4).
1.4 This test method may be used also 5.3 Multifiber Test Fabric (8 mm [0.33 7.1.5 Remove the cover from the Per-
to assess potential color transfer prob- in.] bands) containing acetate, cotton, ny- spiration Tester, remove the sandwiched
lems that relate to finishing. Some dyes lon, silk, viscose rayon, and wool shall be specimens from the tester and separate
are inherently more prone to transfer than used for specimens containing silk. Multi- the swatches. Allow the swatches to dry
others, and some chemical finishes and fiber Test Fabric containing acetate, cotton, at room temperature.
finishing conditions accelerate transfer. nylon, polyester, acrylic, and wool shall be 7.2 Option II.
used with specimens with no silk present. 7.2.1 An accelerated test procedure has
2. Principle 5.4 White fabric of same fiber compo- been used showing approximately the
sition as test specimens. If not available, same results on some dyed or finished
2.1 Dyed and finished test specimens cotton cloth as defined in AATCC TM8, fabrics by placing the test apparatus (see
are sandwiched between pre-wet multifi- Test Method for Colorfastness to Crock- 7.1.4) in a force draft oven at 38 ± 1°C
ber fabric and a selected second fabric, ing: Crockmeter. (100 ± 2°F) for 4 h (see 11.4).
placed in a Perspiration Tester for 48 h at 5.5 Distilled or deionized water.
room temperature, dried and rated. 5.6 Evaporating dish or glass beaker 8. Evaluation (see 11.8)
having the capacity to hold 50 mL of wa-
3. Terminology ter. Wet sponge may also be used. 8.1 After the swatches are dried, exam-
5.7 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- ine the multifiber and the white cloth for
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 11.2) color transfer. Rate each of the fiber types
a material to change in any of its color 5.8 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC in the multifiber fabric and the swatch on
characteristics, to transfer of its color- EP2) (see 11.2) the opposite side of the sandwich sepa-
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 5.9 Gray Scale for Color Change rately, by comparison with the Gray
result of the exposure of the material to (AATCC EP1) (see 11.2). Scale for Staining (AATCC EP2), the
any environment that might be encoun- AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 6. Test Specimens Scale (AATCC EP8 or AATCC EP12),
age or use of the material. and record the numerical rating that cor-
3.2 dye, n.—a colorant applied to or 6.1 Prepare 5.7 × 5.7 cm (2.25 × 2.25 responds to the appropriate one on either
formed in a substrate, via the molecularly in.) test specimens from each sample of of them. Record which scale was used.
dispersed state, which exhibits some de- the dyed fabric to be tested. 8.2 If a change in color is noted in any
gree of permanence. 6.2 Prepare 5.7 × 5.7 cm (2.25 × 2.25 of the test specimens, rate such change
3.3 transfer, n.—in textile processing, in.) multifiber and 5.7 × 5.7 cm (2.25 × with AATCC EP1 or AATCC EP7, and
testing, storage and use, movement of a 2.25 in.) white fabric swatches. record the numerical rating that corre-

316 AATCC TM163-2013(2020)e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC TM163-2013(2020)e3 317
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM164-2015e(2020)

Test Method for Colorfastness to Oxides of Nitrogen

in the Atmosphere under High Humidities
1. Purpose and Scope 4.2 Chain or clamp the gas cylinder to should produce a cycle of fade within 5-
a wall or other suitable support so that it 15 h of exposure.
1.1 This test method is used to deter- cannot fall or be knocked down. 7.2 Examine the Control Ribbon No. 1
mine the resistance of the color of textiles 4.3 Exposure to chemicals used in this periodically until its color corresponds to
to the action of oxides of nitrogen in the procedure must be controlled at or below that of the Standard of Fading when com-
atmosphere at elevated temperatures with levels set by governmental authorities
relative humidities above 85%. pared in daylight ranging from average to
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health slightly bluish north skylight or equiva-
1.2 On certain fibers, dyes do not Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
readily fade at humidities below 85%. lent artificial light. This constitutes one
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR cycle.
Testing at higher humidities is required to 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
produce color changes that predict ser- 7.3 Remove those specimens which
for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- exhibit a noticeable color change at the
vice fading under warm, humid condi- can Conference of Governmental Indus-
tions (see 11.1). end of one cycle. One cycle will gener-
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
ally produce a measurable color change
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
2. Principle weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short in specimens which are sensitive to ox-
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and ides of nitrogen.
2.1 A test specimen and a swatch of ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 7.4 Suspend an unexposed swatch of
control ribbon are simultaneously ex- as a general guide for air contaminant ex- Control Ribbon No. 1 for each additional
posed to oxides of nitrogen in an atmo- posure which should be met (see 11.2). cycle of fade until the required number of
sphere which is maintained at 87.5 ± cycles have been completed.
2.5% RH and a temperature of 40 ± 1°C 7.5 Optional Aftertreatment
(104 ± 2°F) until the control ribbon 5. Apparatus and Materials 7.5.1 Specimens exposed to oxides of
shows a color change corresponding to nitrogen might continue to change color
that of a standard of fading. The cycles 5.1 Exposure chamber suitable for con-
taining oxides of nitrogen (NO2) and after removal from the test chamber. The
are repeated until the specimen shows a color may be stabilized by plunging the
definite color change or for a prescribed maintaining a constant elevated tempera-
ture and relative humidity (see 11.3). specimens into a buffered urea solution
number of cycles. (see 11.7) for 5 min. They should then be
5.2 Control Ribbon No. 1 (see 11.4).
5.3 Standard of Fading (Ribbon No. 1) squeezed, thoroughly rinsed in clean wa-
3. Terminology ter and dried in air at a temperature not
(see 11.4).
3.1 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 5.4 Gray Scale for Color Change above 60°C (140°F). CAUTION: Do not
a material to change in any of its color (AATCC EP1) (see 11.5). treat any specimen with the urea solution
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 5.5 Oxides of nitrogen supply tank (see that must be returned to the test chamber
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 11.6). for additional exposure.
result of the exposure of the material to
any environment that might be encoun- 6. Test Specimens 8. Evaluation
tered during the processing, testing, stor-
age or use of the material. 6.1 Cut each specimen at least 60 × 60 8.1 At the end of each cycle, immedi-
mm. For subsequent color comparison, ately compare those specimens which are
4. Safety Precautions the unexposed sample should be kept in removed from the exposure chamber with
an airtight container away from light to the preserved originals from which they
NOTE: These safety precautions are avoid further shade changes. are drawn.
for information purposes only. They are 6.2 If the test involves laundered 8.2 Rate the effect on color of test
ancillary to the testing procedures and are or drycleaned material, launder or dry- specimens after any specified number of
not intended to be all inclusive. It is the clean material for both the control and cycles by reference to the Gray Scale for
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

user’s responsibility to use safe and test specimens. For the preparation of Color Change (AATCC EP1), or using
proper techniques in handling materials specimens for testing after laundering or AATCC EP7, Instrumental Assessment
in this test method. Manufacturers MUST drycleaning, follow the procedures pre-
be consulted for specific details such as of the Change in Color of a Test Speci-
scribed in AATCC TM61, Test Method men, and record the numerical rating that
material safety data sheets and other for Colorfastness to Laundering: Accel-
manufacturer’s recommendations. All corresponds to the appropriate one on the
erated, and/or AATCC TM132, Test
OSHA standards and rules must also be Gray Scale. Report the number of cycles
Method for Colorfastness to Drycleaning.
consulted and followed. run.
4.1 Oxides of nitrogen in high concen- 7. Procedure
trations are injurious to health and must 9. Report
be exhausted to the atmosphere or 7.1 Suspend the test specimens and a
trapped in water and neutralized with a swatch of Control Ribbon No. 1 in the 9.1 Report the numerical grade for the
10% solution of sodium hydroxide or so- exposure chamber which is maintained at change in color of the test specimen, the
dium bicarbonate. The maximum con- 87.5 ± 2.5% RH and a temperature of 40 number of cycles run, the temperature
centration in a work area must not exceed ± 1°C (104 ± 2°F). NO2 concentrations and relative humidity at which the test
500 pphm. must range from 400-600 pphm which was performed.

318 AATCC TM164-2015e(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10. Precision and Bias Control Ribbon No. 1, was a dyeing of 0.4% comprising 2.47 cm wide Control Ribbon No.
C.I. Disperse Blue 3 (Celliton Blue FFRN) on 1 with a specific lot number indicated; and a
10.1 Precision. Precision for this test cellulose acetate satin. Lot 21 uses 0.4% Dis- specimen of the Standard of Fading for that lot
method has not been established. Until a perse Violet 1 on cellulose acetate stain since of control ribbon is available as CR & SF No.
precision statement is generated for this its fading characteristics are well known and it 1 from Testfabrics Inc., 415 Delaware Ave.,
method, use standard statistical tech- yields more color change after the testing cy- P.O. Box 3026, W. Pittston PA 18643; tel:
niques in making any comparisons of test cle than previous test control lots dyed with +1.570.603.0432; fax: +1.570.603.0433; e-mail:
results for either within-laboratory or Disperse Blue 3. [email protected]; web site: www.testfab-
11.4.2 Since different lots and sources of rics. com.
between-laboratory averages. 11.5 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
both the dyestuff and undyed fabric will pro-
10.2 Bias. Colorfastness to oxides of duce variations in both the original shade and 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
nitrogen in the atmosphere under high its fading rate, it is therefore necessary to ac- +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
humidities can be defined only in terms curately establish a new standard of fading for [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
of a test method. There is no independent each dyed lot of control fabric ribbon so that 11.6 Use bottled gas which contains ap-
method for determining the true values. comparable tests results can be obtained when proximately 1% NO2 in nitrogen in cylinders
As a means of estimating these proper- using different lots of the control and their re- equipped with the proper reducing valves.
ties, the method has no known bias. spective standards of fading. In conducting 11.7 Urea Aftertreatment.
tests, only the standard of fading applicable to 11.7.1 The use of this treatment is com-
that lot of control fabric ribbon may be used. pletely optional. Experience has shown that
11. Notes color change after removal of specimens from
11.4.3 The standard of fading for the origi-
11.1 Humidity for Testing. The fading of nal lot of control fabric ribbon was made with the exposure chamber is negligible. The urea
dyes by oxides of nitrogen on some fibers vat dyes on cellulose acetate satin. For subse- treatment itself will often cause a color change
such as nylon and acetate is altered greatly by quent lots of the fabric ribbon, it was found for in specimens. Therefore, if this procedure is
relatively small variations in relative humidity the standard of fading that the use of direct used, it is essential that both the exposed and
at high humidities. Therefore closely control dyes on viscose satin for the standard of fad- unexposed control specimens be treated in an
temperature and relative humidity. ing provided a better shade match. identical manner.
11.2 Available from Publications Office, 11.4.4 Both the Control Ribbon No. 1 and 11.7.2 Urea Solution: 10 g of urea (NH2 ·

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper the Standard of Fading must be kept in suit- CO · NH2) per liter of water buffered to pH7
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. able containers or enclosures to protect them by addition of 0.4 g of sodium dihydrogen
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. from possible exposure and color change to orthophosphate (NaH2PO4 · 2H2O) and 2.5 g
oxides of nitrogen and other contaminants of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate
11.3 Exposure Chamber. The oxides of
which might be present in the atmosphere dur- (Na2HPO4 · 12H2O) and 0.1 g or less of a rapid
nitrogen chamber for elevated temperatures
ing transportation and storage. wetting surface active agent; for example,
and relative humidities above 85% should be
11.4.5 The Control Ribbon is also sensitive sodium dioctyl sulfosuccinate.
made of stainless steel which has been coated
on the inside with a resistant coating. It must to other atmospheric contaminants such as
maintain the conditions of 87.5 ± 2.5% RH, ozone. Its fading rate will vary considerably at 12. History
40 ± 1°C (104 ± 2°F) temperature and contain different humidities and temperatures and its
an NO2 concentration between 400-600 pphm. use in natural or end-use testing as a measure 12.1 Reaffirmed 2020.
11.3.1 Blueprints of a suitable apparatus of exposures to oxides of nitrogen is not rec- 12.2 Revised 2015. Reaffirmed 2013, 2006,
are available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, ommended. The color change produced on the 2001, 1992, 1987. Editorially Revised 2019,
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. control will reflect the combined effects of the 2010, 2008, 2004, 1995, 1989. Editorially Re-
919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: atmospheric contaminants present and temper- vised and Reaffirmed 1997, 1986.
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. ature-humidity variations, not just the effects 12.3 Developed in 1985 by AATCC Com-
11.4 Test Control and Standard of Fading. of exposure to oxides of nitrogen. mittee RA33. Technically equivalent to ISO
11.4.1 Historically, the test control fabric, 11.4.6 A sealed unit of Test Control Fabric 105-G04.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM164-2015e(2020) 319
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM165-1999e10(2021)e

Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking:

Textile Floor Coverings—Crockmeter
1. Purpose and Scope 4. Safety Precautions indicate a loose sleeve.
7.2.2 A stretched and streaked crock
1.1 This test method is designed to de- NOTE: These safety precautions are for image may be due to mounting the crock
termine the degree of color transfer from information purposes only. These safety test cloth diagonally.
the surface of textile floor coverings to precautions are ancillary to the testing 7.2.3 Arc shaped indentions in the
other surfaces by rubbing. The intent is to procedures and are not intended to be all crocked area of the test cloth may indi-
reproduce as near as possible true-to-life inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to cate the crock block is mounted improp-
situations in all constructions whether use safe and proper techniques in han- erly, most likely perpendicular to the
dyed, printed or otherwise colored. dling materials in this test method. Manu- specified placement (see 13.3).
1.2 Test procedures employing white facturers MUST be consulted for specific 7.3 Replace the abrasive paper on the
test cloths, both dry and wet with water, details such as material safety data sheets tester base if it is smooth to the touch in
are given. and other manufacturer’s recommenda- the crocking area compared to the adja-
1.3 As the use surface of a textile floor tions. All OSHA standards and rules must cent area, or if slippage of the specimen
covering may be exposed to various con- also be consulted and followed. is noticed.
ditions in true-to-life situations, such as 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
soil, stains, cleaning, shampooing and ap- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
plication of chemical treatments such as laboratory areas. 8. Conditioning
antisoils, antistats, antimicrobials, etc., 8.1 Prior to testing, condition the test
the test may be made before, after or be- 5. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.1) specimens and the crock test cloth for dry
fore and after such situations. crock testing as directed in ASTM
5.1 Crockmeter (see 13.2 and 13.3). D1776, Standard Practice for Condition-
2. Principle 5.2 Crock Block (see 13.3). ing and Testing Textiles. Condition each
5.3 Crockmeter Test Cloth (see 13.4). specimen for at least 4 h in an atmosphere
2.1 A colored test specimen held on 5.4 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Trans- of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°C) and 65 ± 5% RH
the base of a crockmeter is rubbed with a ference Scale (AATCC EP8) (see 13.5). by laying each test specimen or crock test
white test cloth under controlled conditions. 5.5 Gray Scale for Staining (AATCC cloth separately on a screen or perforated
2.2 Color transferred to the white test EP 2) (see 13.5). shelf of conditioning rack.
cloth is rated by comparison with the 5.6 White AATCC Textile Blotting
AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Paper (see 13.5).
Scale or Gray Scale for Staining and a 9. Procedures
grade is assigned. 9.1 Dry Crocking Test.
6. Test Specimens
9.1.1 Place a test specimen on the base
3. Terminology 6.1 Two specimens are used, one each of the crockmeter so that it rests flat on
for the dry and the wet tests. the abrasive cloth with its long dimension
3.1 carpet, n.—all textile floor cover- 6.1.1 Additional specimens may be used in the direction of rubbing (see 13.5). The
ings not designated as rugs. to increase the precision of the average. pile lay should point to the back of the
3.2 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 6.2 Floor covering material: pieces at crockmeter if direction of pile is distin-
a material to change in any of its color least 50 × 150 mm. If the pile lay is dis- guishable.
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- tinguishable, cut the specimen with the 9.1.2 Mount a 25 × 100 mm swatch of
rants(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a pile lay pointing in the long direction. white cotton test cloth over the rubbing
result of the exposure of the material to 6.2.1 Larger or full width lab samples surface of the crock block. The test cloth
any environment that might be encoun- may be used without cutting individual should be mounted so that the long di-
tered during the processing, testing, stor- specimens, when multiple tests are mension will be moving in the long direc-
age or use of the material. needed and when using for production tion during the test. This operation can be
3.3 crocking, n.—a transfer of colo- testing. carried out with the crock block attached
rant from the surface of a colored yarn or to the weighted arm of the crockmeter us-
fabric to another surface or to an adjacent 7. Verification ing an Allen socket cap screw (see 13.6)
area of the same fabric principally by or with the crock block detached from the
rubbing. 7.1 Verification checks on the opera- arm and inverted in a suitable crock block
3.4 rug, n.—a textile floor covering of tion of the test and the apparatus should holder (see 13.3 and 13.7). Fasten the test
limited area which is complete in itself be made routinely and the results kept in cloth to the crock block by means of a
and is intended for use as a partial cover- a log. The following observations and rectangular sleeve that slips over the cot-
ing of a floor or another floor covering. corrective actions are extremely impor- ton fabric on the crock block. When
3.5 textile floor covering, n.—an arti- tant to avoid incorrect test results where ready for testing, the test cloth on the
cle having a use-surface composed of abnormal crock images can result and in- crock block projects downward from the
textile material and generally used for fluence the rating process. reciprocating arm of the crockmeter.
covering floors. 7.2 Use an in-house poor crocking car- CAUTION: Do not drop the crock block.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

3.6 use-surface, n.—of textile floor pet or rug as a calibration specimen and Nicks or dents on the rubbing surfaces
covering, the part of a textile floor cover- conduct three dry crock tests. might be irreparable. Handle With Care.
ing directly exposed to foot traffic. 7.2.1 A double, elongated image may 9.1.3 Lower the covered crock block

320 AATCC TM165-1999e10(2021)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
gently onto the test specimen. While 11.3 Indicate whether dry or wet tween-laboratory differences using one
holding the specimen firmly with ex- crocking was performed. observer and the Chromatic Scale are
tended thumb and forefinger of the left 11.4 Indicate whether AATCC EP2 or given in Table III.
hand, execute ten (10) complete turns of AATCC EP8 was used for evaluating
the crank at the rate of one (1) turn per s. crocking (see 10.3).
9.1.4 Remove the white test cloth, con- 11.5 If the carpet or rug was subjected Table III—Crock Test Results
dition (see 8.1) and evaluate as directed to the conditions in 1.3 state this in the
in Section 10. In the case of napped, report. Dry Wet
brushed or sheared material when loose Laboratory A 4.0 4.0
fiber might interfere with the ratings, re- Laboratory B 3.5 3.0
move the extraneous fibrous material by 12. Precision and Bias (see 13.9) Difference 0.5 1.0
pressing lightly on the crock area with the
sticky side of clear self-adhesive tape be- 12.1 Precision. An interlaboratory test
fore evaluating. was conducted in 1997 to establish the Interpretation: For the dry crock test, be-
9.2 Wet Crocking Test. precision of the test method. Testing was cause the difference between labs is less
9.2.1 Thoroughly wet the white test conducted under the normal atmospheric than the critical difference in 12.1.2
cloth in distilled water. conditions of each laboratory and not (0.63), the difference in results is not sig-
9.2.2 By any convenient means, such necessarily under ASTM standard condi- nificant. For the wet crock test, since the
tions. Two operators at each of four labo- difference is greater than the critical dif-
as squeezing between filter papers
ratories tested and rated six fabrics on ference (0.86), the difference in results is
through a hand wringer, bring the wet
pickup to 65 ± 5% based on the condi- two consecutive days, both wet and dry significant.
crock. Rating was performed using the
tioned weight of the dry test cloth under 12.2 Bias. The true value of colorfast-
Gray Scale for Staining and the AATCC
standard conditions (21 ± 2°C [70° ± 4°F] ness to crocking can only be defined in
and 65 ± 5% RH) before testing (see 13.8). 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.
12.1.1 The results for one operator terms of a test method. Within this limita-
9.2.3 Take care to prevent evaporation tion, this test method has no known bias.
which would reduce the moisture content chosen from each laboratory were evalu-
below the specified level before the ac- ated in an ANOVA two factor with repli-
tual crock test is run. cation analysis. The components of vari-
ance are given in Table I. 13. Notes
9.2.4 Continue testing as directed in 9.1.
9.2.5 Air-dry the test cloth before eval- 12.1.2 Critical differences are given in 13.1 For potential equipment information
uating. In the case of napped, brushed or Table II. pertaining to this test method, please visit
sheared material when loose fiber might 12.1.3 Example for determining be- the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
interfere with the rating, remove the ex-
traneous fibrous material by pressing
lightly on the test cloth with the sticky Table I—Components of Variance
side of clear self-adhesive tape before
evaluating. Dry Wet
Gray Chromatic Gray Chromatic
10. Evaluation Within-Laboratory 0.0312 0.0417 0.1250 0.0938
Interaction 0.0135 0.0403 -0.0201- -0.0031-
10.1 Evaluate the amount of color Between-Laboratory 0.0264 0.0101 0.0028 0.0031
transferred from the specimen to the
white test cloth under examination by
comparison with the Gray Scale for
Table II–Critical Differences
Staining (AATCC EP2), the AATCC 9-
Step Chromatic Transference Scale For the components of variance in Table I, two averages of observed values should be considered signifi-
(AATCC EP8) or Instrumental Assess- cantly different at the 95% probability level if the difference equals or exceeds the following critical differences.
ment of Degree of Staining (AATCC
EP12), and record the numerical rating Single Fabric
that corresponds to the appropriate one No. of
Dry Wet
on either of them (see 13.5 and 13.9). Observation Gray Chromatic Gray Chromatic
10.2 Place the test cloth on three layers Within-Laboratory 1 0.49 0.56 0.98 0.85
of clean white cloth for the evaluation. 3 0.28 0.33 0.68 0.49
10.3 Classify dry and wet fastness to 5 0.22 0.25 0.44 0.38
crocking. Different ratings may result de-
pending upon whether the Gray Scale for Between-Laboratory 1 0.66 0.63 0.99 0.86
Staining or AATCC 9-Step Chromatic 3 0.53 0.43 0.58 0.51
Transference Scale is used for the evalua- 5 0.50 0.38 0.46 0.41
tion. It is, therefore, important to report
which scale was used. For very critical Multiple Fabric
evaluations and in cases of arbitration, No. of
Dry Wet
ratings must be based on the Gray Scale Observation Gray Chromatic Gray Chromatic
for Staining:
Within-Laboratory 1 0.59 0.79 0.98 0.85
3 0.43 0.64 0.68 0.49
11. Report 5 0.39 0.61 0.44 0.38

11.1 Identify the sample tested. Between-Laboratory 1 0.74 0.84 0.99 0.86
11.2 Report the grade determined in 3 0.62 0.70 0.58 0.51
10.3. 5 0.60 0.67 0.46 0.41

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM165-1999e10(2021)e 321
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility the following specifications: for mounting of the test cloth.
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 13.8 Experienced operators do not have to
Corporate members, but AATCC does not Fiber 100% 10.3-16.8 mm repeat this weighing procedure during a test
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- combed cotton staple, de- session once the technique is established.
tify that any of the listed equipment or sized, bleached, with no
13.9 The precision of this test method is de-
materials meets the requirements in its test optical brightener or finish-
pendent on the combined variability of the
methods. ing material present
material being tested, the test method itself,
13.2 The Crockmeter provides a reciprocat- Yarn 15 tex (40/1 cotton count), and the evaluation procedure utilized.
ing rubbing motion simulating the action of a 5.9 turns/cm “z”
13.9.1 The precision statement shown in
human finger and forearm. The counting de- Thread count 32 ± 5 warp ends/cm: 33 ±
Section 12 was developed from results ob-
vice is useful when prolonged rubbings are re- 5 filling picks/cm
tained by visual evaluations (AATCC EP2 and
quired and is available at extra cost. Weave 1/1 plain AATCC EP8).
13.3 The Crockmeter is so designed that the pH 7 ± 0.5
13.9.2 It is expected that the use of instru-
crock block with rectangular rubbing surface Mass/sq meter 100 ± 3 g finished mental evaluation (EP12) will result in greater
19.0 × 25.4 mm moves back and forth, with Whiteness W = 78 ± 3 [AATCC precision than that obtained from visual evalu-
each complete turn of the crank along a TM110) ations.
straight path approximately 100 mm in length
on a textile floor covering specimen with a 13.4.1 CAUTION: ISO crock cloth results
downward force in the order of 9 Newtons. may not be equivalent to AATCC crock cloth 14. History
The crock block must be mounted in one di- results/values based on crock cloth study.
rection only; a cutout in the side of the stem 13.5 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer- 14.1 Reaffirmed and editorially revised to
receives the screw that holds it in the recipro- ence Scale, Gray Scale for Staining and include history section per the AATCC style
cating arm. The flat head screw can be re- White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper are guide.
placed by an Allen socket cap screw (see 13.6) available from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, 14.2 Editorially revised 2019, 2016; editori-
or similar device that can be tightened and re- Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. ally revised and reaffirmed 2013; editorially
leased by hand. A crock block holder can also 919.549. 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: revised 2011, 2010, 2009; editorially revised
be used to assist in the mounting of the cotton [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. and reaffirmed 2008 (with title change); edito-
test cloth if so desired. Note that, with the rect- 13.6 Allen socket head cap screw, 10-32 rially revised 2004, 2002, 2001; revised 1999
angular slip-on sleeve provided with the crock threads, 20 mm long. (with title change); editorially revised 1996;
block, the test cloth can be mounted with ease 13.7 A crock block holder is simply a editorially revised and reaffirmed 1993; reaf-
and speed while the crock block is still at- weighted block with a hole bored in the top to firmed 1988, 1987.
tached to the weighted arm of the crockmeter. accommodate the 16 mm diameter stem of the 14.3 Developed in 1986 by AATCC Com-
13.4 Crockmeter Test Cloth should meet crock block when the latter has been inverted mittee RA57. Partly equivalent to ISO 105-X12.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

322 AATCC TM165-1999e10(2021)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM167-1986e5(2018)e

Test Method for Foaming Propensity of Disperse Dyes

Developed in 1986 by AATCC Commit- face shield, impervious gloves and an im- ence Detergent WOB (see 12.4).
tee RA87; reaffirmed 1987, 1988, 1993, pervious apron during preparation. Han-
1998, 2003, 2013, 2018; editorially re- dle concentrated acids only in an ade- 7. Preparation
vised 1989, 1991, 1997, 2010, 2019; quately ventilated laboratory hood. An
reaffirmed and editorially revised 2008. eyewash/safety shower should be located 7.1 Prepare dye dispersion.
nearby for emergency use. CAUTION: 7.1.1 Weigh out 5 g of 100% strength
Always add acid to water. dye. (For other dye strengths adjust ac-
4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this cordingly. Example: 200% strength dye–
1. Purpose and Scope procedure must be controlled at or below weigh 2.5 g.)
levels set by governmental authorities 7.1.2 Paste dye in 25 mL distilled wa-
1.1 Foam generation must be con-
[e.g., Occupational Safety and Health ter in a 400 mL beaker.
trolled in dyeing equipment such as jet
Administration’s (OSHA) permissible ex- 7.1.3 Further dilute the dispersion with
machines which operate with high circu-
posure limits (PEL) as found in 29 CFR 175mL of distilled water and heat to
lation and high agitation of the dye liquor
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 50°C (122°F) while stirring.
at low bath ratios.
for latest version]. In addition, the Ameri- 7.1.4 Dilute dye dispersion to 1 L with
1.2 This test method provides a stan-
can Conference of Governmental Indus- distilled water. Using a pH meter, adjust
dard for measuring the foaming proper-
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold to pH 5.5 ± 0.2 with acetic acid (see
ties of disperse dye under controlled con-
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of Time 12.5). Final temperature of dispersion
ditions and determines the relative
Weighted Averages (TLV-TWA), short should be 30°C (86°F) for the test.
contribution of a single disperse dye to
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and 7.2 Prepare detergent solution.
generate dyebath foam.
ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended 7.2.1 Prepare a 0.5 g/L solution of
as a general guide for air contaminant ex- 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
2. Principle posure which should be met (see 12.3). gent WOB in tap water at 30°C (86°F) to
check for any blender contamination that
2.1 A quantity of disperse dye is predi- would prevent foaming.
luted, preheated and placed in a regular 5. Uses and Limitations 7.3 Check the blender for contamina-
kitchen blender (see 12.1). Using a prede- tion.
termined blender speed, the dye disper- 5.1 The test method provides a means 7.3.1 Pour 200 mL of detergent solu-
sion is blended for a specific time, trans- of comparing lot-to-lot variation of foam tion in clean 1.4 L (1.5 qt) capacity con-
ferred to a glass graduated cylinder and generation in dye shipments versus a container of the blender.
the foam and liquid levels are measured. trol or standard reference sample of the 7.3.2 Operate the blender at its highest
same dye. speed for 30 s and then stop it. Allow the
3. Terminology 5.2 The test procedure is not complex, dispersion to stand for 30 s. A minimum
uses readily available equipment and pro- of 2.5 cm of foam should be present on
3.1 foam, n.—a dispersion of a gas in a vides results that correlate with results top of the solution. If less foam is present,
liquid or solid (see 12.2). from other more elaborate lab dye testing clean the container and repeat the proce-
equipment. dure until enough foam is generated (see
4. Safety Precautions 5.3 The test method offers a specific 12.6).
procedure and set of conditions that are 7.3.3 Thoroughly rinse the blender
NOTE: These safety precautions are useful for comparative studies by an indi- container and add 200 mL of distilled
for information purposes only. The safety vidual laboratory. Variability between water.
precautions are ancillary to the testing laboratories using different equipment 7.3.4 Operate the blender for 30 s at
procedures and are not intended to be all and operators can produce slightly differ- highest speed and then stop it. No foam
inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to ent measurements but will distinguish should be present after 30 s. If foam is
use safe and proper techniques in han- among low, moderate and high foaming present, rinse the blender container thor-
dling materials in this test method. Manu- disperse dyes. oughly and repeat the procedure until no
facturers must be consulted for specific 5.4 Variables which affect accuracy foam is present.
details such as material data sheets and and reproducibility of the test are speci-
other manufacturer’s recommendations. fied in the notes (see 12.5, 12.6 and 12.7). 8. Foam Test
All OSHA standards and rules must also
be consulted and followed. 8.1 Pour 200 mL of dye dispersion into
4.1 Handle all chemicals carefully. Use 6. Apparatus and Materials the blender container. Place a lid on the
chemical goggles or face shield, impervi- container.
6.1 Equipment:
ous gloves and an impervious apron 8.2 Select blender speed which corre-
when handling the chemicals used in this 6.1.1 500 mL glass graduated cylinder. sponds to the blade speed 14,000-15,000
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

procedure. An eyewash/safety shower 6.1.2 Kitchen blender (see 12.1). rpm, usually highest speed of blender
should be located nearby for emergency 6.1.3 Glass blender container. (see 12.1).
use. 6.1.4 Stopwatch. 8.3 Start the stopwatch simultaneously
4.2 Wear safety glasses and a dust 6.1.5 pH meter with starting the blender. Hold the con-
mask when handling powdered dyestuff. 6.2 Materials: tainer, but not the lid, to prevent any
4.3 If concentrated acetic acid is di- 6.2.1 Distilled water. spills.
luted to prepare the acetic acid for pH ad- 6.2.2 Acetic acid, 10% solution. 8.4 After 30 s, stop the blender but al-
justment (7.1.4), use chemical goggles or 6.2.3 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- low the stopwatch to continue running.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM167-1986e5(2018)e 323
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.5 Immediately pour the contents of laboratories in 1982 was conducted with 11.3 Bias. No statement on bias can be
the blender into a dry 500 mL graduated a single operator in each laboratory mak- made since the true value cannot be es-
cylinder. When pouring, tilt the container ing two tests with each dye. A standard tablished by an independent method.
only once, and allow the dye dispersion deviation of 7.8 was calculated for the
and foam to freely flow into the cylinder. study, but some laboratories had data that
12. Notes
Keep the container tilted over the cylin- were significantly different from others.
der until 60 s have elapsed on the stop- Blender speed was the major contributor 12.1 A standard kitchen blender having an
watch. Then remove the container. to variation in test results. Blender speeds agitator blade speed selection of 14,000-
8.6 After 150 s, read the bottom of the can vary with both model of blender and 15,000 rpm can be used. Blade speed selection
meniscus of both the foam and liquid lev- line voltage; there is even 10-15% varia- can be determined by consulting the manufac-
els in the cylinder. The reading will be er- tion in speed between blenders from the turer, but is usually near the highest speed
same manufacturer. Therefore, the test is selection.
roneous if the top of the foam which
12.2 The mass of bubbles formed by agita-
clings to the sides of the cylinder is read not suggested for comparison between tion of a dye dispersion in a regular kitchen
as the foam level (see 12.8). laboratories because variations were blender is very similar to that which dyers
8.7 Record the volume of foam and liq- larger than expected. commonly observe on the surface of highly
uid volume and subtract the liquid vol- 11.2 Precision Within-Laboratory. The agitated dyebaths.
ume to determine the mL of foam pro- standard deviation of low, moderate and 12.3 Available from Publications Office,
duced. high foam dyes as evaluated by a single ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
operator was determined by conducting Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
five tests with each of five dispersions of 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
9. Evaluation 12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
each dye. Using a Duncan’s multiple 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
9.1 Rate dyes according to following range test for variable value, less than +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
classifications: 0.1% of the total variation is due to dis- [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
Class A: 0-30 mL—Very Low Foam persion preparation. About 1.2% of the 12.5 Measure pH with a pH meter rather
Class B: 31-60 mL—Low Foam total variation is due to the test. Of the to- than pH paper or liquid indicators. Excess ace-
Class C: 61-90 mL—Moderate Foam tal variation, 98.7% is due to foam level. tic acid producing pH values in the range of
Class D: 91-120 mL—High Foam The test will distinguish with 95% confi- 3.5-4.5 can significantly increase the foam
Class E: Greater than 120 mL—Very dence level or higher between low, mod- generated by some disperse dyes.
High Foam erate and high foam generating disperse 12.6 Excess silicone lubricants in the bear-
dyes. Multiple dispersions of the same ing of the agitator blade of the blender in new
propeller assemblies can cause defoaming ac-
10. Report dye are not necessary. Unless test results tion. In such cases, rinse the assembly in an
are significantly different from those ex- appropriate solvent to remove the lubricants.
10.1 Report the class (see 9.1) for each pected, multiple tests of the same dye dis- 12.7 Reproducible readings for foam gener-
dye tested. persion are not necessary. Listed below ation are best taken at a 120-180 s interval af-
10.2 A standard, control or reference are the standard deviations of low, mod- ter blending rather than the 60 s or less. A 60-s
sample of the same product should be erate and high foam generating disperse reading is too variable because some dyes re-
tested and reported under the same condi- dyes: quire longer foam-liquid separation time than
tions if the test is used for lot-to-lot com- others.
parisons of the dye. Standard 12.8 A detailed description of the develop-
Deviation ment of this procedure can be found in the
Dye Type (mL foam) 1982 AATCC Intersectional Technical Paper
11. Precision and Bias Competition from the Piedmont Section enti-
Low Foam 2.04 tled, A Method for Measuring the Foam Pro-
11.1 Precision Between-Laboratories. Moderate Foam 4.85 pensity of Disperse Dyes, Textile Chemist and
Interlaboratory testing of 14 dyes by five High Foam 9.16 Colorist, Vol. 15, No. 1, January 1983, p21.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

324 AATCC TM167-1986e5(2018)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM168-2018e

Test Method for Chelation Value of Polyaminopolycarboxylic

Acids and Their Salts: Copper PAN
Developed in 1987 by AATCC Commit- 3. Terminology version). In addition, the American Con-
tee RR90; reaffirmed 1988 (with title ference of Governmental Industrial Hy-
change), 2002, 2012; editorially re- 3.1 chelating agent, n.—in textile gienists (ACGIH) Threshold Limit Val-
vised and reaffirmed 1989, 1997, 2007; chemistry, a chemical capable of deacti- ues (TLVs) comprised of time weighted
revised 1992, 2018 (with title change); vating metal ions by formation of a averages (TLV-TWA), short term expo-
editorially revised 2010, 2019. water-soluble complex. SYN: sequester- sure limits (TLV-STEL) and ceiling lim-
ing agent. its (TLV-C) are recommended as a gen-
eral guide for air contaminant exposure
Foreword 4. Safety Precautions which should be met (see 14.1).
This test method is an alternate to NOTE: These safety precautions are
AATCC TM149, Test Method for Chela- for information purposes only. The pre- 5. Reagents
tion Value of Aminopolycarboxylic Ac- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5.1 Acetic acid, 1.0N (CH3COOH)
ids and Their Salts: Calcium Oxalate. Ti- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.2 Cupric nitrate 2.5 hydrate
tration with a calcium salt using either sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use (Cu(NO3)2 · 2.5H2O)
oxalate or a dye indicator, as in AATCC safe and proper techniques in handling 5.3 Ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid
TM149, yields a value that includes par- materials in this test method. Manufac- (free acid) (EDTA) (C10H16O8N2)
tially-substituted EDTA, HEDTA, DTPA, turers MUST be consulted for specific 5.4 Methanol
nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), iminodiacetic details such as material safety data sheets 5.5 1-(2-Pyridylazo)-2-naphthol, (PAN)
acid (IDA), glycolate and other weak and other manufacturer’s recommenda- (C15H11ON3)
chelating agents found in some commer- tions. All OSHA standards and rules 5.6 Sodium acetate trihydrate
cial products. This alternative procedure must also be consulted and followed. (CH3COONa · 3H2O)
excludes the effect of the partially-substi- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 5.7 Sodium hydroxide, 1.0N (NaOH)
tuted products, providing a more strin- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
gent value. laboratory areas.
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 6. Sampling
1. Purpose and Scope with care. 6.1 Conduct the test in triplicate; i.e.,
4.3 In preparing, dispensing and han- analyze 3 test specimens from a sample.
1.1 The active ingredient content of dling glacial acetic acid and sodium hy-
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), droxide use chemical goggles or face
N-hydroxyethylethylenediaminetriacetic shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 7. Specimens
acid (HEDTA) and diethylenetriamine- vious apron. Concentrated acids and
pentaacetic acid (DTPA) and their salts is 7.1 Do not use aluminum or metallic
bases should be handled only in an weighing pans.
usually expressed by the calcium chela- adequately ventilated laboratory hood.
tion value (CaCV). This value indicates 7.2 For analysis of solid EDTA,
CAUTION: Always add acid to water. HEDTA, and DTPA (either free acid or
the amount of calcium (as calcium car-
bonate) which will be chelated by a 4.4 Cupric nitrate 2.5 hydrate is corro- salt forms) weigh a 0.24-0.26 g specimen
known weight of chelating agent. This sive to the eye and skin and is harmful if of the dried chelating agent to an accu-
method excludes the effect of partially- inhaled. It is an oxidizing material and racy of 0.01 g.
substituted products. may react with organic materials. It 7.3 For analysis of commercial solu-
should be handled only in an adequately tion, of salts of the chelating agents,
ventilated hood. weigh a 0.49-0.51 g specimen of the solu-
2. Principle
4.5 Methanol is harmful if inhaled or tion to an accuracy of 0.01 g.
2.1 Calcium chelation value is deter- swallowed and is a flammable liquid. It
mined experimentally by titrating a should be stored in the laboratory only in 8. Conditioning
weighed specimen of chelating agent small containers away from heat, open
with a copper nitrate solution of known flames and sparks. This chemical should 8.1 If solid chelating agent is being
not be used near an open flame and evaluated, dry a 2-g sample at the appro-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

concentration in the presence of PAN (1-

(2-pyridylazo)-2-naphthol). Initially, the should be handled only in an adequately priate temperature for at least 2 h and
color of the solution is yellow-green due ventilated hood. cool in a desiccator before weighing
to free indicator. When all of the chelat- 4.6 An eyewash/safety shower should specimens.
ing agent has reacted with copper nitrate, be located nearby and a self-contained 8.2 Dry free acid forms of chelating
the color of the solution changes to a per- breathing apparatus should be readily agents at 120°C.
manent purple which is the end point. available for emergency use. 8.3 Dry salt forms of chelating agents
2.2 The CaCV indicates the amount of 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this at 80°C.
calcium (as calcium carbonate) that will procedure must be controlled at or below
be sequestered by a known weight of levels set by governmental authorities 9. Preparation of Reagents
chelating agent and is expressed as milli- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
grams of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) per Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 9.1 Cupric Nitrate Solution: Dissolve
gram of chelating agent (mg calcium car- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR 23.30 g of cupric nitrate 2.5 hydrate and
bonate/g chelating agent). 1910.1000; see www.osha.gov for latest dilute to 1.000 L in a volumetric flask.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM168-2018e 325
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Calculate the molarity of the cupric ni- K = 0.042994
trate solution (see 11.1). M = Molarity of cupric nitrate so-
( 1000 ) mL/L lution, expressed in mmoles/
9.2 PAN Indicator: Dissolve 0.025 g of = ------------------------------------------------------ mL
1-(2-pyridylazo)-2-naphthol in 50 mL of ( 100 ) ( 232.59 g/mole )
100.1 = Molecular weight of calcium
methanol. Store in a refrigerator in a stop- carbonate, expressed in mg/
mole – mL
pered bottled. Prepare fresh weekly. = 0.042994 --------------------------- mmole
g–L
9.3 Acetate Buffer Solution: (pH = 11.2 Average the CaCV values for the
4.65). Dissolve 34.0 g of sodium acetate 3 specimens tested.
trihydrate in 500 mL of water and add 15 10. Procedure
mL of glacial acetic acid. Mix well and 10.1 Quantitatively transfer the speci- 12. Report
store in a closed container. men to a 500-mL Erlenmeyer flask and
12.1 Report for each sample tested:
9.4 Standardization of Copper-Nitrate add 150 mL of water (see 7.1, 7.2 and
7.3). Wash any residual chelating agent 12.1.1 A description or identification
Solution: Weigh to the nearest 0.0001 g of the sample.
approximately 0.5 g of pure reagent grade from the weighing paper or dish into the
flask, and swirl to mix (dissolve). 12.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
EDTA acid powder into each of the three AATCC TM168-2018e.
250-mL Erlenmeyer flasks. Add 150 mL 10.2 Add 25 mL of pH 4.65 acetate
buffer solution to the flask and swirl to 12.1.3 Average CaCV, to 3 significant
of distilled water and 6.5 mL of 1.0N so- digits.
dium hydroxide (or five drops of 50% so- mix. Check the pH and adjust to 4.5-5.5
with 1.0N acetic acid or 1.0N sodium hy- 12.1.4 Any modifications of the test
dium hydroxide) and stir the mixture un- method.
til the EDTA is dissolved. Add 25 mL of droxide, if necessary.
sodium acetate buffer. Adjust to pH 4.5- 10.3 Add 1 mL of PAN indicator to the 13. Precision and Bias
5.5 with 1.0N acetic acid or 1.0N sodium flask and swirl to mix.
hydroxide, if necessary. Add 1 mL PAN 10.4 Titrate with 0.1000 M cupric ni- 13.1 Precision. The intralaboratory,
trate solution to a purple end point that single operator, single apparatus, same
indicator and titrate immediately with
persists for at least 1 min. day precision of the test method is ± 2
copper nitrate to a permanent purple end
(1.60) standard deviations. The inter-
point. Calculate the molarity of copper laboratory precision of the test method
using Equation 1: 11. Calculation (over five participating laboratories) is ± 1
11.1 Calculate the CaCV for each spec- (0.54) standard deviations.
(W)(P)(K ) imen to 3 significant digits for each titra- 13.2 Bias. Chelation value can be de-
M = --------------------------- (Eq. 1) fined only in terms of a test method.
V tion using the Equation 2:
There is no independent method for de-
( 100.1 ) ( V ) ( M ) termining the true value. As a means of
where: CaCV = ------------------------------------- (Eq. 2) estimating this property, the method has
W
M = Molarity of copper nitrate, ex- no known bias.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
pressed in moles/L where:
W = Weight of EDTA acid in grams CaCV = Calcium chelation value, ex- 14. Notes
pressed as mg CaCO3/g che- 14.1 Available from Publications Office,
P = Percent purity of EDTA acid lating agent ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
V = Volume of copper nitrate titrant V = Volume of cupric nitrate ti- Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; +1.513.
in mL trant in mL 742.2020; www.acgih.org.

326 AATCC TM168-2018e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM169-2020

Test Method for Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp Exposure

1. Purpose and Scope 3.13 ASTM D5035, Breaking Force temperature of 21 ± 1°C (70 ± 2°F).
and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Strip (ASTM D123)
1.1 This test method provides a proce- Test). 4.12 tearing strength, n.—in fabrics,
dure for the exposure of textile materials 3.14 ASTM D5587, Test Method for the capacity of a material to withstand the
of all kinds, including coated fabrics and Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Trapezoid ultimate tearing force required to propa-
products made thereof, in an artificial Procedure. gate a tear after its initiation. (ASTM
weathering apparatus using controlled 3.15 ASTM G151, Standard Practice D1424, D2261, D5587, D5034)
conditions of test. This test method infor Exposing Non-Metallic Materials in 4.13 total irradiance, n.—radiant
cludes procedures for both controlled Accelerated Test Devices that use Labo- power integrated over all wavelengths at
wetting and no wetting of the specimen. ratory Light Sources. a point in time expressed in watts per
1.2 Resistance to degradation is mea- 3.16 ASTM G155, Standard Practice square meter (W/m2).
sured either as percent strength loss or for Operating Xenon-Arc Light Apparatus
percent residual strength (breaking, tear- 4.14 weather, n.—climatic conditions
for Exposure of Non-Metallic Materials. at a given geographical location, includ-
ing, or bursting) and/or colorfastness of
the material when evaluated under stan- ing such factors as sunlight, rain, humid-
4. Terminology ity, and temperature.
dard textile testing conditions.
4.1 breaking strength, n.— the ability 4.15 weather resistance, n.—ability
2. Principle or capacity of a specific material to with- of a material to resist degradation of its
stand the ultimate tensile load or force re- properties when exposed to climatic con-
2.1 Samples of the textile material to quired for rupture. (ASTM D123). ditions.
be tested and the agreed upon comparison 4.2 bursting strength, n.—the force or
standard are exposed simultaneously to a pressure required to rupture a textile by 5. Safety Precautions
xenon lamp source under specified condi- distending it with a force, applied at right
tions. Resistance of the test material to 5.1 The safety precautions specified in
angles to the plane of the fabric, under the method/procedure are ancillary to the
degradation is compared to that of a com- specified conditions. (ASTM D3786,
parison standard. testing procedures and are not intended to
D3787). be all inclusive.
3. Referenced Documents 4.3 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref-
a material to change in any of its color erence applicable safety data sheets, use
3.1 AATCC EP1, Evaluation Proce- characteristics, to transfer of its colo- safe and proper techniques, and wear ap-
dure for Gray scale for Color Change. rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as propriate personal protective equipment
3.2 AATCC EP7, Evaluation Proce- the result of exposure of the material to in handling materials in this standard.
dure for Instrumental Assessment of the any environment that might be encoun- 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur-
Change in Color of a Test Specimen. tered during processing, storage, use or ers for specific details such as safety data
3.3 AATCC TM16.3, Test Method for testing of the material. sheets, equipment operating instructions,
Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc. 4.4 irradiance, n.—radiant power per and other recommendations. Consult and
3.4 ASTM D123, Standard Terminol- unit area as a function of wavelength ex- follow all applicable health and safety
ogy Relating to Textiles. pressed as watts per square meter, W/m2. regulations (e.g., OSHA standards and rules.
3.5 ASTM D1424, Tearing Strength of 4.5 irradiation, n.—the time integral 5.4 The test equipment contains high
Fabrics by Falling Pendulum Type of irradiance expressed in joules per intensity lamps. The door of the test ma-
(Elmendorf) Apparatus. square meter (J/m2). chine must be kept closed whenever it is
3.6 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice 4.6 radiant energy, n.—energy travel- running.
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles. ing through space in the form of photons 5.5 Before servicing xenon lamps, al-
3.7 ASTM D2256, Breaking Load or electromagnetic waves of various low time for cool down after test machine
(Strength) and Elongation of Yarn by the lengths. is shut down.
Single-Strand Method. 4.7 radiant flux density, n.—rate of 5.6 When servicing the test machine,
3.8 ASTM D2261, Tearing Strength flow of the radiant energy past the speci- shut off both the off switch and, if appli-
of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) men. cable, unplug the machine from the wall
Procedure (Constant-Rate-Of-Extension 4.8 radiant power, n.—energy per electrical socket. Insure that the main
Tensile Testing Machine). unit time emitted, transferred, or received power indicator light on the machine
3.9 ASTM D3512, Pilling Resistance as radiation. front panel goes out.
and Other Related Surface Changes of 4.9 spectral energy distribution, n.—
Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Tester the variation of energy due to the source 6. Uses and Limitations
Method. over the wavelength span of the emitted
3.10 ASTM D3786, Hydraulic Burst- radiation. 6.1 Results obtained by this test
ing Strength of Knitted Goods and Non- 4.10 spectral transmittance, n.—the method should not be considered equiva-
woven Fabrics-Diaphragm Bursting percent of incident radiant energy passing lent to those results obtained by weather-
Strength Tester Method. through a given material and not ab- ing in an outdoor environment unless a
3.11 ASTM D3787, Bursting Strength sorbed in the process, as a function of mathematical correlation for a given ma-
of Knitted Goods-Constant-Rate-of wavelength. terial has been established and agreed
Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test. 4.11 standard atmosphere for test- upon by the contractual parties. Outdoor
3.12 ASTM D3884, Abrasion resis- ing, n.—in textiles, an atmosphere for environments vary with respect to sea-
tance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, testing in which the air is maintained at a son, geography and topography and, as a
Double-Head Method relative humidity of 65 ± 2% and at a consequence, the effects of outdoor ex-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM169-2020 327
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
posure will vary accordingly. Not all ma- size and the wattage at which it is oper- such as found in South Florida when ap-
terials are affected equally by the same ated to provide an irradiance at the face propriate machine water supply is re-
environment. The instruments for deter- of the specimen of 0.35 W/m2 measured stricted: 120 min cycle, 60 min light only,
mining weather resistance described in at 340 nm or equivalent. Operate the xe- 70 ± 5% RH, alternating with 60 min
this test method are considered satisfac- non-arc test apparatus in accordance to dark, black panel temperature 77 ± 3°C
tory, since they have been used exten- one of the selected test cycle Options 1-4 (170 ± 5°F), no water spray.
sively in the trade for acceptance testing (see 8.2.1-8.2.4). 8.2.3 Option 3—This cycle has been
of textile materials. The decision as to 7.2.1 Optical Filter—In order for xe- used to approximate a desert climate such
which machine type to use should be non-arcs to simulate terrestrial daylight, as found in Phoenix, Arizona: Light on
agreed upon by the purchaser and sup- optical filters must be used to remove cycle, continuous light only, no water
plier based on their historical data and ex- short wavelength UV radiation. In addi- spray, black panel temperature 77 ± 3°C
perience. There may be distinct differ- tion, optical filters to remove infrared ra- (170 ± 5°F), 27 ± 3% RH.
ence in spectral distribution, water spray diation may be used to prevent unrealistic 8.2.4 Option 4—This cycle has been
application, air and humidity sensor loca- heating of test specimens that can cause used to approximate a temperate climate
tion, and test chamber size between thermal degradation not experienced dur- such as found in Columbus, Ohio: 120
weathering test machines supplied by dif- ing outdoor exposures. min cycle, 102 min light only, 50 ± 5%
ferent manufacturers that can result in Xenon-Arc test apparatus shall be RH, black panel temperature 63 ± 3°C
differences in reported test results. Con- equipped with a Daylight Filter to pro- (145 ± 5°F) alternating with 18 min of

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
sequently, data obtained from machines vide the appropriate spectrum. The Day- light and water spray. Black panel temper-
supplied by different manufacturers and light Filter shall comply with the relative ature and relative humidity control is not
different size test chambers and xenon spectral power distribution requirements necessary during periods of water spray.
lamps cannot be used interchangeably specified in Appendix A. 8.3 The use of these cycles does not
unless a mathematical correlation has 7.2.2 Follow the xenon-arc test appara- imply, expressly or otherwise, an acceler-
been established and agreed upon. No tus manufacturer’s instructions for recom- ated weathering test. This test method is
comparison between differently manufac- mended maintenance. Unless otherwise not restricted to the use of these cycles.
tured test apparatus is known to AATCC specified, control the level of irradiance
Committee RA50 using this test method. to 0.35 ± 0.02 W/m2/nm bandpass at 340 9. Standards for Comparison
6.2 When using this test method, the nm, or 40 ± 2.0 W/m2 bandpass at 300-
contracting parties must agree upon a rea- 400 nm. Operate the xenon-arc test appa- 9.1 Standards for comparison must be
sonable test program cycle incorporating ratus in accordance to one of the selected determined and agreed upon by the con-
light, temperature, humidity, and wetting test cycle Options 1-4 (see 8.2.1-8.2.4). tractual parties. The standards can be any
effects. The cycle selected must reflect suitable textile material where a history of
expected environmental conditions rela- 8. Test Cycle Determination the rates of strength degradation or color
tive to season, geography, and topogra- change is known. Standards must be ex-
phy associated with the use of the mate- 8.1 The test cycle is determined by the posed simultaneously with the test speci-
rial (see Option 1, 8.2.1). influencing factors of the end-use, in par- men. The use of the standard is to deter-
6.3 When using this test method, use a ticular, the climatic conditions. Not all mine time-to-time equipment and test
standard of comparison (such as a weath- materials are affected equally by the same procedure variations. If test results of the
ering reference material or other control environment. Results obtained by the use exposed standards differ by more than
specimen), which has a known change in of any one test cycle may not be represen- 10% from the known standard data, thor-
property value after a specific exposure. tative of those of any other test cycle or oughly review the test machine operating
any outdoor weathering test. Acceleration conditions, and correct any malfunctions
6.4 Other procedures for measuring re-
factors derived for one geographic loca- or defective parts. Then, repeat the test. If
sistance to degradation can be used as
tion do not necessarily apply to any other the data still differ by more than 10% from
agreed upon between the contracting parties.
geographic location. However, certain the known data and there is no evidence of
7. Apparatus (see 16.1) test cycles have been used to group simi- machine malfunction, then the standard
lar climates with respect to the test cycle. should be questioned and re-evaluated.
7.1 Different types of xenon-arc test 8.2 The nature of the test material con- 9.2 When colorfastness is the sole
apparatus may be utilized provided that tributes to the selection of the appropriate evaluation criterion, Blue Wool Stan-
the test apparatus is constructed of corro- test cycle with respect to UV exposure, dards, as defined in AATCC TM16.3, are
sion resistant material and shall provide wetting, wet time and temperature. The acceptable for options using no water
for means of automatically controlling ir- apparatus may be equipped to monitor spray. However, use caution since the rate
radiance level, humidity level, chamber specific portions of a continuous spec- of any fade of the Blue Wool Standards
air temperature, and Black Panel or Black trum, control the level of irradiance to by any one test method may not agree
Standard Thermometer temperature. Xe- 0.35 ± 0.02 W/m2/nm bandpass at 340 with that of other test methods.
non-arc test apparatus may be water or air nm, or 40 ± 2.0 W/m2 bandpass at 300- 9.3 Visual Comparison—For AATCC
cooled (see 17.2). 400 nm unless otherwise specified. The Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards L4,
7.2 Xenon-Arc Light Source. The xe- following test cycle options have been equals the Step 4 color change of the
non-arc test apparatus utilizes a long-arc used for textile materials. Gray Scale for Color Change, or equals
quartz-jacketed xenon-arc lamp as the 8.2.1 Option 1—This cycle has been the L4 Standard of Fade for 20 AATCC
source of irradiance, which emits radia- used to approximate a subtropical climate Fading Units (AFU) applicable to the Lot
tion from below 270 nm in the ultraviolet such as found in South Florida: 120 min designation used as determined by
through the visible spectrum and into the cycle, 90 min light only, 70 ± 5% RH, AATCC EP 1. For AATCC Blue Wool
infrared. While all of the xenon-arc black panel temperature 77 ± 3°C (170 ± Lightfastness Standards L2, equals the
lamps are of the same general type, dif- 5°F) alternating with 30 min light and Step 2-3 color change of the Gray Scale
ferent size lamps operated in different water spray. Black panel temperature and for Color Change, or equals the L2 Stan-
wattage ranges are employed in several relative humidity control is not necessary dard of Fade for 20 AATCC Fading Units
sizes and types of apparatus. In each of during periods of water spray. (AFU) applicable to the Lot designation
the various models, the specimen expo- 8.2.2 Option 2—This cycle has been used as determined by AATCC EP1.
sure area varies according to the lamp used to approximate a subtropical climate 9.4 Instrumental Color Measure-

328 AATCC TM169-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—AATCC Fading Unit and picks. Cut samples for the specified test 11. Conditioning
Light Exposure Equivalents for AATCC procedures as follows:
Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards 10.2.1 Breaking Strength—When strip 11.1 Condition samples after exposure
breaking strength is required, cut strips of by bringing all specimens, control and
Xenon fabric at least 5 × 20 cm (2 × 8 in.) with test, to moisture equilibrium in the atmo-
AATCC Xenon Only the longer dimension parallel to the warp sphere for testing textiles as directed in
Blue Wool AATCC Only kJ/m2
or machine direction unless otherwise ASTM D1776. Equilibrium is considered
Lightfastness Fading kJ/m2/nm 300-400
specified. When grab breaking strength is to have been reached when the increase
Standard Units @ 420 nm nm
specified, cut swatches of fabric at least in mass of the sample in successive
L2 5 21 864 13 × 18 cm (5 × 7 in.) (see 17.5). Refer- weighings made at intervals of not less
L3 10 43 1728 ence ASTM D5035 or ASTM D2256. than 2 h does not exceed 0.2% of the
a
L4a 20 b
85b 3456 mass of the sample. Generally, the indus-
10.2.2 Bursting Strength—Cut swatches
try approaches equilibrium from the “As
L5 40 170 6912 of fabric at least 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.)
b
340b Received” side.
L6 80 13824 Reference ASTM D3787 or ASTM D3786.
11.2 It is recognized that in practice
L7 160 680 27648 10.2.3 Tongue Tear Strength—Cut
textile materials are frequently not
L8 320 1360 55296 swatches of fabric at least 10 × 23 cm (4
weighed to determine when moisture
L9 640 2720 110592 × 9 in.) with the shorter direction parallel
equilibrium has been reached. While
to the warp or machine direction unless
such a procedure cannot be accepted in
otherwise specified (see 17.5 and 17.6).
a
For color change of 1.7 ± 0.3 CIELAB units or Step 4
on the Gray Scale for Color Change. cases of dispute, it may be sufficient in
Reference ASTM D2261.
b
Verified by experiment using Daylight Behind Glass routine testing to expose the material to
10.2.4 Elmendorf Tear Strength—Cut the standard atmosphere for testing for a
and Xenon-Arc, Continuous Light. All other values
are calculated (see AATCC TM16.3).
swatches of fabric at least 10 × 13 cm (4 reasonable period of time before the
× 5 in.) with the longer dimension paral- specimens are tested. Twenty-four hours
lel to the warp or machine direction un- has been found acceptable in most cases;
less otherwise specified (see 17.4 and however, certain fibers or treatments may
17.5). Reference ASTM D1424. exhibit slow moisture equalization rates
ment—for Lot 5, AATCC Blue Wool 10.2.5 Trapezoid Tear Strength—Cut
Lightfastness Standard L4, equals 1.7 ± from the “As Received” side. When this
swatches of fabric at least 10 × 18 cm (4 is known, a preconditioning cycle, as de-
0.3 units of color change as determined × 7 in.) with the longer dimension paral-
by AATCC EP7. Other L designations or scribed in ASTM D1776 may be agreed
lel to the warp or machine direction un- upon between contractual parties.
lots of AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness less otherwise specified (see 17.5 and
Standards equal the units of color change 17.6). Reference ASTM D5587.
specified on the calibration certificate 12. Preparation, Maintenance and
10.2.6 Colorfastness—Cut swatches of
supplied with the standard as determined Calibration of Test Apparatus
fabric at least 3 × 6 cm (1.2 × 2.4 in.) with
by AATCC EP7. the exposed area measuring not less than 12.1 Install the test apparatus in a room
3 × 3 cm (1.2 × 1.2 in.) adjacent to an un- where temperature and relative humidity
10. Test Specimens exposed area having the same dimension. are controlled to minimize the effects of
10.2.7 When required to prevent ravel- air supply variations.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
10.1 Number of Specimens—It is ing, the samples may be edged using a 12.2 Prior to the start of each test, the
strongly recommended to use replicate flexible epoxy or similar resin. operator shall verify that the test appara-
specimens (see 17.3) of both the material 10.2.8 Identify each sample using a la- tus has been calibrated within the limits
to be tested and the standard for compari- bel resistant to the environment encoun- and time intervals recommended by the
son as required to ensure accuracy. tered during the test. manufacturer, but not less than annually.
10.2 Fabric Specimen Size, Initial— 10.3 Mounting. The instruments associated with the ex-
These dimensions are given as a general 10.3.1 Mount the samples on open- posure apparatus (that is, light monitor
guide and in most cases will be adequate back frames, which are installed in the control system, Black Thermometers,
to perform the required evaluation. Cer- cabinet without backing unless otherwise chamber air sensor, humidity control sys-
tain materials may undergo dimensional specified (see 17.7). tem, UV sensors and radiometers) require
change during exposure. The test equip- 10.3.2 Fabrics—Secure the samples to periodic calibration. Whenever possible,
ment manufacturer, physical test appara- the frames to hold them smooth without calibration should be traceable to national
tus, and number of replicate specimens curling of the edges. Fabrics may be or international standards. Calibration
required will affect the needed sample stitched to a gauze backing. schedule and procedure should be in ac-
size. Review the test procedures given in 10.3.3 Yarns—Wind or fasten yarns on cordance with manufacturer’s instructions.
14.3 to ensure that a sufficient number of frames to a length of 15 cm (6 in.) mini- 12.3 Aging of the xenon lamps or opti-
specimens are exposed for the individual mum. Only that portion of the yarns di- cal filters can result in changes in lamp
tests of degradation (see 17.4). Minimize rectly facing the radiant energy is tested spectrum. Changes in lamp spectrum
the effect of fabric variation by randomly for breaking (tensile) strength. Either sin- may also be caused by accumulation of
selecting pairs of test specimens from a gle strand or multiple strand tests may be dirt or other residue in or on the burner
fabric sample. One specimen from each used. In multiple strand tests, wind the envelope.
pair is used for the exposure, the second, yarns on the frame closely packed to 2.54 12.4 Replace xenon lamp(s) and opti-
is used for the control (unexposed) test. cm (1.0 in.) width. The control sample cal filters as per manufacturer’s recom-
Each pair of specimens shall contain the must contain the same number of strands mendations or when damaged.
same warp yarns for warp-wise tests and as the sample subjected to exposure. Af- 12.5 Since it is not practical to monitor
the same fill yarns for filling-wise tests. ter the exposure has been completed and the surface temperature of individual test
No two pairs of test specimens cut paral- before the yarns are unwound for testing, specimens, a specified black-panel sensor
lel to the warp should contain the same bind together those yarns facing the light is used to indirectly measure and control
set of warp ends, and no two pairs of test source using 2 cm (0.75 in.) masking or test specimen temperatures. This temper-
specimens cut parallel to the filling other suitable tape to keep the yarns ature is influenced by the absorbed irradi-
should contain the same set of filling closely packed on the exposure frame. ance minus the heat dissipated by con-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM169-2020 329
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
duction and convection. Keep the face of Table II—CIE Delta E Color Change Testing CIE Delta E*
the black panel in good condition. Al-
though it is coated with a high quality fin- sample ID 409.5kJ 819kJ 1638 kJ
ish, when exposed in the weathering ap- 2-1 4.02 8.15 20.83
paratus it is subject to deterioration. 2-2 2.40 9.18 20.43
Maintain a control black panel unit to pe- 2-3 3.26 8.49 18.75
riodically check the operating black panel 2-4 3.42 5.08 18.23
unit for conformance. When an operating 2-5 1.72 5.69 17.72
black panel unit falls outside the limits Avg 2 2.96 0.91 7.32 1.82 19.19 1.37
established for the test procedure, com-
3-1 9.62 6.51 7.80
pared to the control unit, refinish or re-
place the unit. 3-2 9.26 6.04 6.79
12.6 Spray water must have a maxi- 3-3 9.65 6.55 6.88
mum of 1 ppm solids and a maximum of 3-4 9.61 6.68 6.85
0.2 ppm silica, and leave no observable 3-5 9.47 6.54 7.41
stains or deposits on the specimens. Very Avg 3 9.52 0.16 6.46 0.25 7.15 0.44
low levels of silica in spray water can 4-1 1.14 0.60 1.07
cause significant deposits on the surface 4-2 1.39 0.52 0.95
of test specimens. In addition to distilla- 4-3 1.23 0.62 0.97
tion, a combination of deionization and 4-4 1.41 0.64 0.92
reverse osmosis can effectively produce 4-5 1.52 1.05 0.88
water of the required quality. The pH of Avg 4 1.34 0.15 0.69 0.21 0.96 0.07
the water used should be reported.
5-1 6.65 11.50 25.34
12.7 The power and water supply are 5-2 6.64 11.86 26.56
to be monitored during the test as speci-
5-3 6.55 12.80 26.30
fied in the detailed description of the ap-
paratus furnished by the manufacturer. 5-4 6.64 12.23 26.23
Ensure the designated black panel tem- 5-5 7.32 13.13 27.09
perature sensor and relative humidity are Avg 5 6.76 0.32 12.30 0.67 26.30 0.64
functioning properly.
12.8 Control the test environment as
specified by the chosen test option.
12.9 Program or adjust the instrument Table III—Tensile Strength Testing
to provide a continuous light test. Fill the
specimen holders with metal blanks. 409.5 kJ/m2 Breaking Load, lbs %
These are used to ensure uniform air flow Strength
in the test chamber during the test expo- Sample No. Individual Values Average Std Dev Loss
sure and should not include the actual test 2 620 588 550 650 643 610 41.45
samples. Support the black panel ther- 396 424 398 428 426 414 15.96 32.1%
mometer in the specimen exposure area 3 459 515 508 430 425 467 42.37
in the same manner as the material. Oper- 498 430 435 473 487 465 30.66 0.6%
ate and control the test apparatus as de- 4 229 221 220 213 222 221 5.70
fined by the manufacturer, adjusting the 162 169 152 154 156 159 6.91 28.2%
black panel temperatures, chamber tem- 5 728 823 832 842 871 819 54.08
peratures, and humidity controls to the
527 571 562 563 584 561 21.15 31.5%
parameters as defined by sections 8.2.1
through 8.2.4 If performing Option 1 or 4, 819 kJ/m2 Breaking Load, lbs %
Strength
program the instrument to provide light Sample No. Individual Values Average Std Dev Loss
plus water spray. Ensure that all speci-
mens receive spray during a spray cycle. 2 620 588 550 650 643 610 41.45

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
12.10 Shut down the test apparatus af- 324 328 330 297 322 320 13.35 47.5%
ter operating at the controlled conditions 3 459 515 508 430 425 467 42.37
for 60 min. Remove the material from the 333 349 338 344 322 337 10.43 27.9%
specimen area. 4 229 221 220 213 222 221 5.70
105 98 101 96 98 100 3.51 54.9%
13. Procedure 5 728 823 832 842 871 819 54.08
432 447 391 443 427 428 22.20 47.8%
13.1 Program the xenon-arc test appa- 1228 kJ/m2 Breaking Load, lbs %
ratus to run test conditions specified in 8.2. Strength
13.2 Mount the framed test specimens Sample No. Individual Values Average Std Dev Loss
on the specimen area as recommended by 2 620 588 550 650 643 610 41.45
the test apparatus manufacturer. Make 214 211 216 221 207 214 5.26 65.0%
sure that all materials are adequately sup- 3 459 515 508 430 425 467 42.37
ported and in proper alignment. Any dis-
174 180 175 174 171 175 3.27 62.6%
placement of the material toward or away
4 229 221 220 213 222 221 5.70
from the source, even by a small distance,
may lead to variation in degradation be- 55 49 56 52 49 52 3.27 76.4%
tween specimens. The specimen area 5 728 823 832 842 871 819 54.08
must be completely filled so that air flow 200 201 212 206 209 206 5.13 74.9%

330 AATCC TM169-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
is not able to pass through the specimen 14. Evaluation record the percent elongation characteris-
plane. Using a solid specimen tray or fill- tics of the unexposed controls and ex-
ing unused spaces in the specimen area 14.1 Rate either the durability or resis- posed specimens at rupture or at some
fulfills this requirement. tance to degradation of the material with prescribed point in the force-elongation
respect to the standard of comparison by curve as this is oftentimes significant
13.2.1 For single strand tests when ma- one or more of the following:
terial length exceeds 23 cm (9 in.) center supplementary information (see 16.9).
14.1.1 Percent strength retained or per-
the test specimens in the exposure area. cent strength loss—Record percent
13.3 In the case of woven, knitted, and strength loss or percent strength retained 15. Report
nonwoven fabrics, ensure that the side di- (breaking, tearing, or bursting as appro- 15.1 Include in the report the type of
rectly exposed to the radiant source is priate) of the material after the prescribed test apparatus, including model, serial
that normally used as the face. If for any exposure time period. number, and manufacturer’s name, expo-
reason, the face of the material is not ex- 14.1.2 Residual Strength—Record the sure program, elapsed exposure time,
posed, report it with the data. initial and final strength values along sample rotation schedule, irradiance
13.4 For test program cycles with wa- with all other pertinent data. level, black panel temperature, chamber
ter spray, ensure that the water spray 14.1.3 In Terms of the Agreed Upon air temperature, relative humidity, if
strikes the test samples as a fine spray Comparison Sample or Standard: black panel temperature was controlled
equally distributed over the surface ex- a) Satisfactory—As durable or more by ambient (chamber air) or black panel
posed to the radiation. durable than the comparison standard at and type of water supply.
the amount of exposure time period pre- 15.2 Report the type of equipment used
13.5 Monitor exposure test chamber scribed in the material standard.
conditions with suitable recorders or data in measuring the strength characteristics of
b) Unsatisfactory—Less durable than the fabric, the type of fiber(s) of which the
acquisition system (optional). the comparison sample at the amount of material is composed, which side of the
13.6 Operate the test apparatus contin- exposure time period prescribed in the fabric was exposed (in the event that the fi-
ually until the selected exposure has been material standard. bers differ on the face and back of the fab-
completed. Avoid unnecessary delays 14.2 Test specimen preparation after ric), the fabric weight in g/m2 (oz/ yd2) and
when filters or lamps are changed and the exposure is preferred but may be done the nature of the fabric finish, if known.
exposure period continued, as such de- before exposure (see 18.8). For each test
lays may contribute to variations in re- 15.3 Report any deviation from this
to be made on the material and control, method or the performance of the stan-
sults or lead to errors. exposed and unexposed, prepare test dard of comparison.
13.7 If irradiance varies by more than specimens by marking and raveling or 15.4 Report the rating and relative data
10% within the exposure area, reposition cutting the central portion of each ex- for each property evaluated.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
specimens to ensure uniform total irradia- posed sample to the dimensions specified
15.5 Report the operating schedule of
tion over the specimen surface, reposition in the respective test procedures (see 14.3.)
the test apparatus.
specimens following manufacturer’s in- 14.3 Physical Properties. Determine
structions, which will provide each speci- the change in properties of fabrics as di-
men equivalent exposure periods in each rected in one or more of the following 16. Precision and Bias
location to ensure uniform total irradia- test methods: 16.1 Precision.
tion over the specimen surface. For short 14.3.1 Determine the breaking strength 16.1.1 CIE Delta E Color Change Test-
duration tests (less than one week), repo- of fabrics as directed in ASTM D5035, ing. Four samples of coated fabrics (Geo
sition specimens at least once per day. using the appropriate procedure as speci- Textile Samples), 5 replicates of each,
For longer duration tests, reposition spec- fied. were tested according to AATCC
imens at least five times during the dura- 14.3.2 Determine the breaking strength TM169-1991 in a Ci65 Weather-Ometer.
tion of the test. Other test methods of of yarns as directed in ASTM D2256. The test cycle consisted of 90 min of light
achieving uniform total irradiation may 14.3.3 Determine the ball bursting only followed by 30 min of light and
be employed if mutually agreed upon by strength of fabrics as directed in ASTM spray. Black Panel temperature 70 ± 3°C
the contractual parties. D3787. (158 ± 5°F), relative humidity 55 ± 5%,
13.8 Replace filters according to man- 14.3.4 Determine the diaphragm burst- specimen rotation—none.
ufacturer’s instructions, or when pro- ing strength of fabrics as directed in
16.1.2 Tensile Testing. Tensile tests
nounced discoloration or milkiness de- ASTM D3786. Use the Model C type
were made on samples before and after
velops, whichever occurs first. tester for fabrics having a bursting
exposure intervals of 409.5, 819 and
strength of 200 psig or less; and the
13.9 When the exposure cycle is com- 1228 kJ/m2 @ 340 nm (325, 650 and
Model A type tester for fabrics having a
pleted, remove the replicate standard and 975h) Test Method: ASTM Two-inch Cut
bursting strength greater than 200 psig.
test specimens from the exposure area. Strip Test
14.3.5 Determine the Tongue tear
Transfer them to a standard atmosphere strength as directed in ASTM D2261. Test Device: Instron Model 1000
for testing textiles for conditioning to 14.3.6 Determine the Elmendorf tear Weight Beam Capac-
perform agreed upon physical tests. strength as directed in ASTM D1424. ity: 1,000 lb
13.9.1 If upon removal from the speci- 14.3.7 Determine the trapezoid tear Full Scale Load: 100, 200, 500, 1000
men area, the specimens are wet, dry them strength as directed in ASTM D5587. lbs Cross head Speed:
without tension at ambient laboratory con- 14.4 Measure the color change of 12 in. per min
ditions or at a temperature not exceeding AATCC lightfastness standards as di- Gage Length: 3 in. Number of speci-
71°C (160°F) before transferring them to rected in AATCC EP7. mens per direction per
the conditioning atmosphere. Wet-out the 14.5 Average the data for the various sample: 5
unexposed reference standard (compari- replicates, or handle statistically as ap- Test Direction: machine
son standard) and the retained unexposed propriate, and record a significant value
original. Treat them under the same condi- of breaking, tearing, or bursting strength 16.1.3 Note Tables A3 (Color Change)
tions of drying and conditioning as the ex- retention and/or colorfastness after expo- and A4 (Tensile Strength) in Appendix A
posed test specimens before physical test- sure in relation to original strength or for data on precision.
ing or colorfastness evaluation. color, as applicable. It is appropriate to 16.2 Bias. There is no referee method

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM169-2020 331
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
for determining the true value of weather men rack. The size of the frame is determined Table AI—Relative Spectral Power
resistance of textile materials. The bias of by the type specimens required for individual Distribution Specification for
a xenon lamp exposure for acceptance property requirements. Xenon-Arc with Daylight Filter
testing cannot be determined; therefore, 17.8 When preparing specimens from the
this method has no known bias. exposed material, consideration must be given Relative irradiance
to the usable part of the sample and the type Wave- in percent (%) 1)
test apparatus employed. length
17. Notes 17.9 In the case of some fabric blends, the bandpass CIE No.85,
cellulosic component may be seriously dam- (nm) minimum maximum Table 4
17.1 For potential equipment information aged, but the high strength of the synthetic
pertaining to this test method, please visit the component may mask any significant strength
< 290 0.14
online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. loss. In those cases, it may be advisable to 290-320 1.0 7.8 5.4
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility evaluate the degradation effects by the weight
of listing equipment and materials sold by its 320-360 27.6 42.8 38.2
loss procedure in test methods such as: ASTM
Corporate members, but AATCC does not 360-400 47.3 71.7 56.4

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
D3884 or ASTM D3512.
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
tify that any of the listed equipment or materi- 1)
expressed as a percentage of the total irradiance
als meets the requirements in its test methods. 18. History < 400 nm.
17.2 Refer to ASTM G151 and ASTM The UV irradiance (290-400 nm) is 11% and the VIS
G155 for guidance on the design and perfor- 18.1 Revised in 2020 to update referenced
standards, add Appendix B, and make various irradiance (400-800 nm) is 89% expressed as a per-
mance requirements for instruments specified centage of the total irradiance from 290-800 nm (CIE
in this method. editorial changes.
No.85, Table 4). These values measured on specimen
17.3 The required number of specimens to 18.2 Revised 2017. Editorially revised
plane in instruments may vary when performing a
be tested in order to have a certain minimum 2016. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2009. test due to the reflectance properties and number of
level of confidence in the value of the mea- Editorially revised 2008, 2007. Revised 2003. specimens.
sured property is a function of the standard de- Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1995. Re-
viation, s, of the property being measured and vised 1990. Reaffirmed 1989, 1988.
the acceptable percentage error, E, in the mea- 18.3 Developed in 1987 by Committee
surement. If the standard deviation, s, is high, RR64; jurisdiction transferred in 2007 to
Committee RA50.
through 8.2.4 are noted as approxima-
more specimens are required. Similarly, if the tions of specific climatic regions. How-
acceptable level of error percent, E, is low,
more specimens are required. The generic for- ever, this does not confirm that the
Appendix A amount of property change seen after a
mula for computing sample size, k, is: Xenon-Arc Light Spectrum certain amount of exposure in these cli-
k = (ts/E)2 mates will match the amount of change
A1 Xenon-Arc test apparatus shall be
where: in the xenon-arc instrument after an
k = the required number of specimens
equipped with a Daylight Filter to pro-
vide the appropriate spectrum. The Day- equivalent radiant dosage, as materials
s = the standard deviation of the property
being measured light Filter shall comply with the relative exposed may be more or less sensitive to
E = the allowable percent error (E ranges spectral power distribution requirements specific wavelengths of radiation or other
between 0% and 5%. Actual E value specified in Table AI and in Fig. A1. weathering factors. It is recommended
depends on the property itself and the that the user validate the results with out-
requirements of the situation) Appendix B door exposures to determine acceleration
t = the degree of confidence in the esti- rates and correlation between natural and
Correlation with Natural Exposures
mated value of s. It also reflects the xenon-arc exposures listed within this
level of confidence we have in the com- B1 Options 1-4 listed in Sections 8.2.1 test method.
puted value of k. The value of t should
be obtained from standard t-tables for a
one-sided test at 95% confidence, for
the actual number of tests used to esti-
mate the standard deviation, s
3.0
17.4 The material specification may further
define the use of wet breaking, tearing, or
bursting strength tests in lieu of or to comple-
2.5
ment those tests done under standard textile
testing conditions. Report conditions of test
along with the data.
17.5 In general, the warp direction is used, 2.0
but the filling direction may be used to com-
Irradiance (W/m2/nm)

plement or in place of the warp direction when

specified. Warp yarns sometimes are protected 1.5
from the irradiance due to fabric structure.
When the filling is used, it must be reported.
17.6 Under certain conditions, by agreement
between principals to a transaction, tearing 1.0
strength of the material can be used in lieu of, or
to complement, the breaking or bursting strength.
17.7 Specimen frames must be made from 0.5
suitably inert materials that will not contami-
nate the specimens. When samples are fas-
tened with staples, they should be of the
nonferrous type over-coated to avoid contami- 0.0
250 300 350 400 450 500 550 600 650 700 750 800
nation of the specimen by corrosion products. Wavelength (nm)
Metal frames must have a dull finish and be
designed to avoid reflectance that could influ-
ence the performance of the material. Frames
should conform to the curvature of the speci- Fig. A1—Xenon Arc Spectral Power Distribution with Daylight Filters

332 AATCC TM169-2020 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM170-1987e6(2017)e

Test Method for Dusting Propensity of Powder Dyes

Developed in 1987 by Committee RA87; and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 500 mL) with capability of grounding to
editorially revised and reaffirmed 1988, tions. All OSHA standards and rules prevent interference from static electric-
1989 (title change), 1996; editorially must also be consulted and followed. ity (see 11.1).
revised 1992, 2004, 2008, 2019; reaf- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 5.3 Filter paper, Whatman No. 2, 39
firmed 2001, 2006, 2011, 2016, 2017. be followed. Wear safety glasses in all mm diameter circle with 16 mm diameter
laboratory areas and a single-use dust res- center hole (see 11.1 and 11.2).
pirator while handling powder dyes. 5.4 Pipettes, Pasteur.
1. Purpose and Scope 5.5 Beakers, Griffin, 50 mL.
5.6 Photographic Scale for Rating (see
1.1 This test method provides a stan- 5. Apparatus and Materials
11.3, Fig. 2).
dard method for the evaluation of dusting
properties of powder dyes. 5.1 Funnel, 1.5 mm thick stainless
1.2 The method of assessment permits steel, 110 mm diameter, 230 mm stem
6. Preparation and Assembly
the assignment of a numerical rating de- length with 15 mm stem diameter (see
scribing the degree of dusting; or, con- Fig. 1). 6.1 Slip a filter paper collar on the fun-
versely, the degree of non-dusting of 5.2 Cylinder, stainless steel, 50 mm di- nel stem and position it 100 mm from the
powder dyes. ameter, 355 mm tall (approx. capacity bottom of the stem.
1.3 This test method is not intended for
a quantitative determination of dusting.
Water soluble dyes may give an inferior
rating than an equal amount of dusting
caused by disperse dyes. Further studies
indicated that not all factors; i.e., humid-
ity, are fully controlled. Also the method
does not distinguish between slow and
fast settling dust.

2. Principle
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

2.1 Three, approximately equal,

weighed portions of a 10 g powder dye
sample are dropped consecutively and
rapidly into a funnel which has a wet fil-
ter paper collar on the stem and is fitted
into a cylinder. Any dust which forms
rises and settles on the pre-wet filter pa-
per collar.
2.2 The resulting coloration on the fil-
ter paper is then compared to a series of
five standards and a numerical rating is
assigned.

3. Terminology
3.1 dusting, n.—the tendency of parti-
cles of sufficiently low mass to become
airborne when a powder material is han-
dled or agitated.
3.2 dye, n.—a colorant applied to or
formed in a substrate, via the moleculary
dispersed state, which exhibits some de-
gree of permanence.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM170-1987e6(2017)e 333
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
method, use standard statistical techniques
in making any comparisons of test results
for either within-laboratory or between-
laboratory averages.
10.2 Bias. Dusting propensity can only
be defined in terms of a test method.
There is no independent method for de-
termining the true value. As a means of
estimating this property, the method has
Fig. 2—Dusting test scale. no known bias.

11. Notes
6.2 Moisten the paper collar with three on a sheet of filter paper away from
11.1 Stainless steel funnels, cylinders, and
drops of distilled water at points approxi- possible sources of atmospheric “fly” or filter paper collars are available from AATCC,
mately equidistant from one another contaminants. P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park NC
around the stem of the funnel. Use care to 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
avoid water running down the funnel 8. Evaluation 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web
stem. site: www.aatcc.org.
6.3 Place the funnel, with wet collar, in 8.1 Compare the specimen with the 11.2 Filter paper collars required for this
the steel cylinder. Ground the cylinder scale (see 11.3) and assign the appropri- test may be prepared in a number of different
ways.
(see 11.4). The paper collar should be ate numerical rating. Intermediate rat- 11.2.1 Larger circles of paper may be die
200 mm from the bottom of the steel ings; e.g., 4-5 may be estimated. cut or hand cut to size with scissors and the
cylinder. 8.2 The matching standard establishes center hole punched out with a light blow on a
a numerical rating for degree of dusting. #6 cork borer.
7. Procedure A rating of 1 describes a very dusty mate- 11.3 The illustration of the dusting scale in
rial and a rating of 5 describes a non- the text of this method is inadequate for the
7.1 Use a 10 g sample of powder dye, dusting or minimally dusting dye. evaluation. A standard scale (photographic
weighing it out as 3.3 g portions, into 8.3 Duplicate or triplicate tests may be replicas) must be used and is available from
three 50 mL beakers. conducted and the average noted. AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.
7.2 Pour the three portions of dye onto 919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
the side of the funnel at intervals of ap- 9. Report web site: www.aatcc.org.
proximately 2-3 s. 11.4 The steel cylinder is grounded by con-
7.3 Allow the apparatus to remain un- 9.1 Report the numerical rating for de- necting one end of a copper conductor (No. 14
disturbed for 3 min to avoid erroneous re- gree of dusting. solid wire) to the grounding screw at the base
sults due to any external effects on the air of the cylinder and the other end clamped to a
in the cylinder. metallic (not plastic) water pipe or any metal-
10. Precision and Bias lic electrical conduit.
7.4 Remove the funnel and, with scis- 11.5 Pulling the paper collar off the stem of
sors, snip off the filter paper collar from 10.1 Precision. Precision for this test the funnel without using the scissors causes a
its periphery to the stem for easy removal method has not been established. Until a “squeegee” effect which could lead to errone-
(see 11.5). Air dry the collar by placing it precision statement is generated for this ous results.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

334 AATCC TM170-1987e6(2017)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM171-2019

Test Method for Carpets: Cleaning of; Hot Water Extraction

Developed in 1987 by AATCC Commit- heated cleaning solution into the pile and be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
tee RA57; reaffirmed 1988, 1989, 2000, quickly removing the solution and soil by laboratory areas.
2005, 2014; editorially revised 1991, vacuum (see also steam cleaning). 4.2 All chemicals should be handled
1997, 2008; revised 1995 (with title NOTE: Hot water extraction is often with care.
change), 2019; editorially revised and erroneously called “steam cleaning.” Hot 4.3 Eye protection should be used
reaffirmed 2010. water is used at a temperature of 60 ± 3°C when mixing, handling or applying the
(140 ± 5°F). These temperatures are far detergent and detergent solutions.
below the temperature of steam of 100°C 4.4 Gloves or protective hand cream
Foreword (212°F). are recommended for handling detergents
Over the years, Committee RA57, 3.5 pilate, n.—see pile lifting. and solutions.
Floor Covering Test Methods, has evalu- 3.6 pile lifter, n.—a vacuum cleaning 4.5 Observe operating procedures and
ated the various techniques for on-site device with motorized rotating brushes precautions by the manufacturer of the
cleaning of carpets as they have emerged. designed to erect and agitate carpet pile extraction machine. Liquid under pres-
Information exchanged with professional to facilitate soil removal (see also carpet sure and high vacuum can cause exces-
carpet cleaning organizations led to the pile brush). sive splashing of liquids and/or hose
selection of the system described in this 3.7 pile lifting, n.—the act of erecting “kick back.”
test method as typical of a majority of ac- the pile tufts of a carpet with a carpet pile
tual cleaning operations. brush, pile lifter, or pile rake to allow im- 5. Apparatus and Materials
bedded soil to be more easily removed
and erecting the pile after cleaning to re- 5.1 AATCC Detergent #171, for all
1. Purpose and Scope synthetic fiber carpets (see 11.1).
store a uniform overall appearance (also
1.1 This test method provides a labora- called pilate). 5.2 Hot water extraction unit (see
tory procedure to clean textile floor cov- 3.8 pile rake, n.—a hand tool with 11.2).
erings by a technique simulating cleaning smooth circular plastic tines used for pile 5.3 Carpet brush or pile rake.
of installed floor coverings by hot water lifting. 5.4 Mounting boards (see 11.3).
extraction, sometimes erroneously called 3.9 rug, n.—a textile floor covering of 5.5 Extraction wand with a vacuum
“steam cleaning.” limited area which is complete in itself slot that is free of obstructions.
1.2 This test method may be used to and is intended for use as a partial cover-
clean a carpet in a manner that duplicates ing of a floor or another floor covering. 6. Test Specimens
the most popular (70%) means of actual 3.10 steam cleaning, n.—see the cor-
on-floor cleaning of carpets. 6.1 The preferred minimum specimen
rect term, hot water extraction. size is 30 × 70 cm (12 × 27 in.) with the
1.3 This test method prepares speci-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

3.11 textile floor covering, n.—an ar- pile lay in the 70 cm (27 in.) direction
mens that can be tested for many proper- ticle having a use-surface composed of
ties; e.g., colorfastness, dimensional sta- (see 11.4).
textile material and generally used for 6.2 If the entire specimen requires uni-
bility, permanency of finishes, ease of covering floors.
cleaning, etc. form cleaning, a border carpet of similar
3.12 use-surface, n.—of textile floor thickness is necessary for uniform extrac-
covering, the part of a textile floor cover- tion of the cleaning solution.
2. Principle ing directly exposed to foot traffic.
2.1 The test is performed by securing a 3.13 wand, n.—a tool used to deliver 7. Procedure
specimen of carpet, face up, on a floor or cleaning solution to carpets and apply
a mounting board. An extraction cleaning vacuum to remove the solution. 7.1 Secure the specimen to the floor or
head is passed over each section of the NOTE: A wand usually consists of an mounting board with staples, tacks or
specimen. The pile is erected with a extension handle and a cleaning head. other suitable means (see 11.4).
brush or pile rake and the specimen is Various types are light weight wand, drag 7.2 Prepare the cleaning solution ac-
dried at room temperature. wood (heavy duty) and power wand cording to the directions supplied (see
which has a motorized rotating or vibrat- 11.1.1).
3. Terminology ing part to aid soil release. 7.3 Purge the system of cold cleaning
solution before beginning each cleaning
3.1 carpet, n.—all textile floor cover- 4. Safety Precautions cycle.
ings not designated as rugs. 7.3.1 Visually inspect and remove any
3.2 carpet pile brush, n.—a hand op- NOTE: These safety precautions are obstructions from the vacuum slot (see
erated brush having long, semi-rigid bris- for information purposes only. The pre- 8.2).
tles intended specifically for erecting the cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 7.4 Pour 8 L (2 gal) or more of pre-
pile of small areas of carpet (see also pile dures and are not intended to be all inclu- heated solution, 60°C (140°F), into the
lifter). sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use empty solution tank of the hot water ex-
3.3 cleaning head, n.—a vacuum head safe, and proper techniques in handling traction unit.
modified with spray nozzles for cleaning materials in this test method. Manufac- 7.5 With water-feed spray and vacuum
solution application. Some types include turers MUST be consulted for specific on, and the cleaning head in contact with
a powered brush unit to facilitate wetting and other manufacturer’s recommenda- the carpet surface, draw the cleaning
and soil release. tions. All OSHA standards and rules head across the surface of the carpet in a
3.4 hot water extraction, n.—a must also be consulted and followed. direction against the lay of the pile. With-
method of cleaning carpet by injecting a 4.1 Good laboratory practices should out changing the position of the carpet,

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM171-2019 335
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
place the cleaning head in the same start- 8. Evaluation U.S. 11-17 g/gal of tap water
ing position of the carpet surface as be- U.K. 13-18 g/gal (Imperial)
fore and with only the vacuum on (water- 8.1 Specimens which are subjected to Metric: 3.0-4.5 g/L
feed spray off) draw the cleaning head the cleaning procedure of this test method 11.2 A commercial hot water extraction de-
across the carpet as in the first pass. may be tested for many properties; e.g., vice of professional quality, either portable,
These two passes of the cleaning head colorfastness, dimensional change, perma- dolly, or truck mount. Small units and “add
constitute one cleaning cycle. In most nency of finishes, ease of cleaning, etc. on” devices are generally unsuitable because
cases, two cleaning cycles will be neces- 8.2 If an obstruction exists, a banding of insufficient liquid capacity, delivery pres-
or striped look may appear after remov- sure, and/or vacuum for liquid retrieval. The
sary to obtain measurable results. How- device should meet or exceed the following
ever, the number of cycles may be in- ing specimen for evaluation. This may be
caused by blockages in the extraction specifications:
creased depending on the degree of The tank shall have a means of maintaining
soiling and the purpose of the test. wand's vacuum slot. Banding is not nor-
the liquid at 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F) and a ther-
7.6 The wand should be moved at mal; therefore, the specimen should be mometer to measure this.
about 46.0 cm/s (1.5 ft/s) to deliver be- retested after ensuring the vacuum slot is A liquid delivery pump delivering at least 3
tween 0.4-0.6 L/m2 (0.10-0.14 gal/yd2) of clear of obstruction. L/min (0.75 gal/min) at a pressure of 207 kPa
cleaning solution. The speed of the sec- (30 psi) or more.
ond (vacuum) stroke should be approxi- The liquid recovery vacuum pump shall
9. Report have a minimum lift of 250 mm (100 in.)
mately the same as above, but may be de-
9.1 State that the specimens were sealed and a flow of 43 L/s (90 cfm) open
creased to achieve maximum liquid orifice.
retrieval. CAUTION: Some jet size - jet cleaned according to this procedure.
A standard floor wand of 25 cm (10 in.)
height combinations may cause pile dis- 9.2 Report the number of cleaning cy- width.
tortion from excessive liquid impact (see cles used. 11.3 The mounting boards should be con-
11.5). 9.3 State the pH of the diluted cleaning structed from l.27 cm (0.5 in.) CD grade exte-
7.6.1 An effective professional unit solution after it has been prepared ac- rior plywood or better. Each board should
should remove between 90-95% of the cording to directions provided by the sup- measure 78.7 × 96.5 cm (31.0 × 38.0 in.).
plier.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
liquid, depending on fiber absorbency. A 11.4 The specimen and mounting board
properly operating vacuum system 9.4 Report evaluation data and cite the size may be adjusted to conform with other
should leave no more than 40.0 g/m2 (1.2 test method for each property evaluated. tests to be run on the sample. Examples:
oz/yd2) of liquid (that is in excess of natu- AATCC TM122, Test Method for Carpet Soil-
ral regain) in a carpet specimen. ing: Service Soiling, or AATCC TM134, Test
10. Precision and Bias Method for Electrostatic Propensity of Carpets.
7.7 Should the cleaning of a larger area 11.5 Spray jet(s) to deliver 3.0-4.0 L/min
of carpet than covered by a single clean- 10.1 Precision and bias statements are (0.75-1.0 gal/min) with a line pressure of 207
ing cycle be required, reposition the not applicable because data are not gener- kPa (30 psi). The spray pattern should give
cleaning head on the carpet so that in suc- ated by this test method. even liquid delivery over the entire wand
cessive cleaning cycles the cleaning head width. There should be no heavy or light
will overlap the previously cleaned area streaks. The liquid impact on the face of the
by 5 cm (2 in.). 11. Notes carpet should not cause matting or other pile
7.8 Erect the pile with a carpet brush or distortion. Jet(s) orifice size and/or distance
pile rake in the direction opposite to the 11.1 AATCC Detergent 171 available from from the carpet face should be adjusted to
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle avoid pile distortion and give even liquid dis-
lay of the pile. Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: tribution. EXAMPLE: If spray pattern is too
7.9 Remove the specimen from the +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; narrow and pile matts, increase height. If pat-
mounting board or floor and dry it at am- web site: www.aatcc.org. tern is wide enough and pile matts, increase
bient conditions in a horizontal position. 11.1.1 Dilution: orifice size.

336 AATCC TM171-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM172-2010e(2016)e2

Test Method for Colorfastness to Powdered

Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
Developed in 1988 by AATCC Commit- 3.3 laundering, n.—of textile materi- levels set by governmental authorities
tee RA60; reaffirmed 1989, 1995, 2002; als, a process intended to remove soil (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
revised 1990, 1996, 1997, 2003, 2007 and/or stains by treatment (washing) with Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
(with title change), 2010; editorially re- an aqueous detergent solution and nor- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
vised 1994, 2004, 2005, 2008, 2012, mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov
2019; reaffirmed and editorially revised tracting and drying. for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
2016. 3.4 non-chlorine bleach, n.—a prod- can Conference of Governmental Indus-
uct that does not release the hypochlorite trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
ion in solution; i.e., sodium perborate, so- Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
1. Purpose and Scope weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
dium percarbonate.
1.1 This test method is designed to 3.4.1 liquid non-chlorine bleach, n.— term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and
evaluate the colorfastness to powdered a product that contains hydrogen perox- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

non-chlorine bleach in home laundering ide as its active ingredient. as a general guide for air contaminant ex-
of textiles which are expected to with- 3.4.2 powdered non-chlorine bleach, posure which should be met (see 13.1).
stand frequent laundering. The fabric n.—a product that contains either sodium
color changes resulting from the pow- perborate or sodium percarbonate as its 5. Uses and Limitations
dered non-chlorine bleach, detergent so- active ingredient.
5.1 Non-chlorine bleaches are avail-
lution and abrasive action of five home
launderings are evaluated. able in two different forms—powdered or
4. Safety Precautions liquid. This method only evaluates the
1.2 First establish the level of perfor- colorfastness of textiles to powdered non-
mance with powdered non-chlorine NOTE: These safety precautions are
for information purposes only. The pre- chlorine bleach in home laundering. Due
bleach and if an effect is found, then to differences in active ingredients, the
retest with detergent alone. It may be cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- results obtained by this method may not
necessary to use a water only wash to be representative of results obtained by
separate the effects of components like sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
safe and proper techniques in handling the use of liquid non-chlorine bleach on
hardness, pH or chlorine content. textiles during laundering.
1.3 Since the powdered non-chlorine materials in this test method. Manufac-
bleaches currently available contain in- turers MUST be consulted for specific
gredients other than the powdered non- details such as material safety data sheets 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.2)
chlorine bleach; such as fluorescent whit- and other manufacturer’s recommenda-
6.1 Automatic washing machine (see
ening agents, bluing, etc., it is the total tions. All OSHA standards and rules
13.3).
effect of these chemicals on the color must also be consulted and followed.
6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 13.4).
change that is being evaluated. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
6.3 Conditioning/drying racks with
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
pull-out screens or perforated shelves
laboratory areas.
2. Principle (see 13.5).
4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- 6.4 Ballast of 92 × 92 ± 3 cm (36 × 36 ±
2.1 Specimens are laundered under ap- ence Detergent WOB and the 2003 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleached cotton
propriate conditions of temperature, de- AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De- sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1) or 50/
tergent solution, powdered non-chlorine tergent WOB may cause irritation. Care 50 polyester/cotton bleached of plain
bleach solution and abrasive action for should be taken to prevent exposure to weave construction (Wash load ballast
five home laundering cycles. The laun- skin and eyes. type 3).
dered specimens are evaluated for color 4.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 6.5 1993 AATCC Standard Reference
change. dations should be followed when operat- Detergent WOB or 2003 AATCC Stan-
ing laboratory testing equipment. dard Reference Liquid Detergent WOB
3. Terminology 4.4 All chemicals should be handled (see 13.6).
with care. 6.6 Facilities for drip and line drying.
3.1 bleach, n.—in home laundering, a 4.5 The procedure for determining the 6.7 Balance with at least 5 kg (20 lbs)
product that will clean, whiten, brighten percent active oxygen content outlined in capacity.
and aid in the removal of soils and stains 13.7 should be handled only in an ade- 6.8 Powdered non-chlorine bleach (see
from textile materials by oxidation that is quately ventilated laboratory hood. In 13.7 and 13.8).
inclusive of chlorine and non-chlorine preparing, dispensing and handling the
products. reagents, use chemical goggles or face
7. Test Specimens
3.2 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of shield, impervious gloves and an imper-
a material to change in any of its color vious apron. 7.1 The weight of the test specimen
characteristics, to transfer of its color- 4.6 An eyewash/safety shower should can influence the results of this test. Only
ant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a be located nearby and an organic vapor one test specimen is to be laundered in a
result of the exposure of the material to respirator should be available for emer- load. For ease in weighing fabrics, the
any environment that might be encoun- gency use. test specimen weight is to be 110.0 ± 10.0
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this g (0.25 ± 0.02 lb). For garment testing,
age or use of the materials. procedure must be controlled at or below one garment is to be tested. If the gar-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM172-2010e(2016)e2 337
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Washing and Drying Conditions (see 13.10) stability or a bleach effect.
Machine Cycle Washing Temperatures Drying Procedures
11. Report
(1) Normal/Cotton Sturdy (II) 27 ± 3°C (80 ± 5°F) (A) Tumble:
(2) Delicate (III) 41 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) i. iiCotton Sturdy 11.1 Report the numerical average
(3) Permanent Press (IV) 49 ± 3°C (120 ± 5°F) ii. iDelicate color change grade for each specimen
(V) 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F) iii. Permanent Press tested.
(B) Line
(C) Drip 11.2 Report washing procedure (Ara-
(D) Screen bic and Roman Numerals) and drying
procedure (capital letter from Table I;
[i.e., (1) IIIA (iii)] means NORMAL cy-
cle, wash water temperature of 41 ± 3°C
ment weight exceeds the specified load and must be reported. Operate the dryer (105 ± 5°F), tumble dry (permanent
weight of 1.8 kg or 4 lb, the total weight until the total load is dry. Remove the press).
is to be included in the report. See 8.2.2 load immediately after machine stops. 11.3 Report the type and amount of de-
for exact weight specifications on load. 8.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Hang each speci- tergent used.
men by two corners with the fabric length 11.4 Record the brand and quantity of
8. Procedure in the vertical direction. Allow the test the powdered non-chlorine bleach used.
specimens to hang in still air at room 11.5 Report the percent available oxygen.
8.1 Table I summarizes washing and temperature until dry. 11.6 Record the weight of fabric speci-
drying conditions. Information on the 8.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each dripping men or garment tested.
machine and laundering conditions may wet specimen by two corners, with the
be found in the AATCC LP1 (see 13.10). fabric length in the vertical direction. Al-
8.2 Washing. low specimens to hang in still air at room 12. Precision and Bias (see 13.9)
8.2.1 Fill the washer with the specified temperature until dry.
water volume at the selected water tem- 8.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread each 12.1 Interlaboratory Test Data. An in-
perature using the normal cycle setting. specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- terlaboratory study was carried out in
Measure and record the water hardness in rated surface, removing wrinkles but not 1986 to establish the precision of this test
any test. distorting or stretching, and allow to dry method for determining the effect of
8.2.2 Add 66 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC in still air at room temperature. powdered non-chlorine bleach in home
Standard Reference Detergent WOB or 8.4 Repeat 8.2 and 8.3 for a total of laundering on the colorfastness of textile
100 ± 1 g of 2003 AATCC Standard Ref- five launderings. materials.
erence Liquid Detergent WOB. Add the 8.5 After drying, condition the speci- Four materials were tested separately
amount of the powdered non-chlorine mens for at least 4 h by laying each for five cycles of home laundering in du-
bleach recommended by the manufac- specimen separately on the screen or per- plicate at each of the five laboratories us-
turer. Add test specimen and enough bal- forated shelf of a conditioning rack in an ing one brand of powdered non-chlorine
last to make a 1.8 ± 0.1 kg (4.00 ± 0.25 atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 bleach. After completing the laundering,
lb) load. Set the washer on the cycle se- ± 5% RH before evaluating color change. three raters independently assessed the
lected for washing and set the wash timer color change on each specimen of each
(see Table I and 8.1). Start the agitation fabric using the Gray Scale for Color
and independently time the wash for re- 9. Evaluation Change. The washing and drying condi-
producible results. Advance the dial to tions were (1)IVa (see Table I for inter-
the end of the wash cycle and rinse at a 9.1 Evaluate the change in color in the pretation of code). Each of the 24 × 24 in.
temperature below 29°C (85°F). If this test specimen by comparison with the specimens that were washed separately
rinse temperature is not attainable, record Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC ranged in weight from 72-97 g (0.16-0.21
the actual temperature of the rinse water EP1), or using AATCC EP7, Instrumen- lb). The fabrics were 100% cotton and
used. tal Assessment of the Change in Color of polyester/cotton. Dyes were direct, pig-
8.2.3 For specimens to be dried by pro- a Test Specimen, and record the numeri- ment and disperse. The color change
cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro- cal rating that corresponds to the appro- average grades for the three raters at the
ceed automatically through the final spin priate one on the Gray Scale. five laboratories were 3.33-3.93.
cycle. Remove test specimens immedi- 12.2 Precision. The components of
ately after the final spin cycle, separate variance as standard deviations of color-
10. Interpretation of Results
any tangled pieces—taking care to mini- fastness grades were calculated to be as
mize distortion—and dry by procedures 10.1 This test is a satisfactory end use follows:
A, B or D (see Table I and 8.1). test for demonstrating the effect of the Single-operator component 0.22
8.2.4 For specimens to be dried by pro- 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter- Within-laboratory component 0.21
cedure C, Drip Dry, stop the washer at the gent WOB or the 2003 AATCC Standard
Between-laboratory component 0.00
end of the final rinse cycle just before the Reference Liquid Detergent WOB and
water begins to drain. Remove the speci- powdered non-chlorine bleach on textile For the components of variance re-
mens soaking wet. materials in home laundering. ported above, the average of two color
8.3 Drying. 10.2 If a significant color change is ob- change grades should be considered sig-
8.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the served, an untreated duplicate sample nificantly different at the 95% probability
washed load (test specimens and ballast) could be retested using either this method level if their difference equals or exceeds
in the tumble dryer, set on the cycle with detergent only, or the 2A Test in the critical differences listed in Table II.
which generates the correct exhaust tem- AATCC TM61, Test Method for Color- 12.3 Bias. The true value of colorfast-
peratures as specified in AATCC LP1 fastness to Laundering: Accelerated, ness to non-chlorine bleach in home laun-
(see 8.1). For fibers that are heat sensi- without the addition of powdered non- dering can only be defined in terms of a
tive, lower temperatures consistent with chlorine bleach. This will determine test method. Within this limitation, this
producer’s recommendations are required whether the color change is due to dye in- method has no known bias.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

338 AATCC TM172-2010e(2016)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Critical Differences, Rating Units for Conditions Noteda (Na2S2O3) with constant stirring, to a pale yel-
low. Add about 2.0 mL of starch indicator
Number of Observations Single-Operator Within-Laboratory Between-Laboratory (5.0% solution) and continue the titration a
in each Average Precision Precision Precision drop at a time until the disappearance of the
blue starch-iodine color.
1 0.61 0.85 0.85
3 0.35 0.69 0.69 Calculation:
5 0.27 0.65 0.65
Percent Available Oxygen =
a
The critical differences were calculated using t = 1.950, which is based on infinite degrees of freedom.
mL Na 2 S 2 O 3 × N × 0.008 × 100
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sample Size

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
13. Notes org; web site: www.aatcc.org. (where N = Normality of Na2S2O3 solution)
13.6 All detergents are available from Variation of ± 3% on the percent of available
13.1 Available from Publications Office, AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle oxygen is acceptable within product test.
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1. 13.9 The precision of this test method is de-
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. 919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; pendent on the combined variability of the
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. web site: www.aatcc.org. AATCC Standard material being tested, the test method itself,
13.2 For potential equipment information Reference Detergent WOB has been changed and the evaluation procedure utilized.
pertaining to this test method, please visit to a 0% phosphate compact formula named 13.9.1 The precision statement shown in
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent Section 12 was developed from results ob-
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility WOB. Critical evaluations made using tained by visual evaluations (EP1).
of listing equipment and materials sold by its AATCC Standard Reference Detergent WOB 13.9.2 It is expected that the use of instru-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not and used for standard comparisons should be mental evaluations (EP7) will result in greater
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- repeated using the 1993 AATCC Standard precision than that obtained from visual evalu-
tify that any of the listed equipment or Reference Detergent WOB. ations.
materials meets the requirements in its test 13.7 Powdered non-chlorine bleaches are 13.10 Laundering temperatures and other
methods. available under a large number of trade names parameters listed in M6 may not be the same
13.3 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, in supermarkets. Different brands will contain as those listed in various test methods. Param-
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. different ingredients and the same ingredients eters in M6 are updated periodically to reflect
919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: in differing quantities. Follow manufacturer’s consumer experience, taking into account cur-
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org, instruction for recommended usage. In con- rent technology and regulations regarding
for model number(s) and source(s) of current ducting experiments with these materials, home water heater temperatures, particularly
recommended washer(s). Any other washer since they are blends of materials of different in the United States.
which is known to give comparable results can granule sizes and densities, it is strongly rec- Typically, test method committees pursue a
be used. Washing machine conditions given in ommended that sufficient product to conduct a deliberate effort to maintain the same test
AATCC LP1 represent the actual speeds and group of experiments in the same time frame method conditions over a long period of time
times available on current specified model(s). be thoroughly mixed in a composite before in order to produce comparable results over
Other washers may vary in one or more of and during use. Keep in air tight containers. time. Additionally, significant changes may
these settings. The product used to develop this method was invalidate precision data developed using the
13.4 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Clorox 2. original conditions.
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. 13.8 To determine the percent available ox- Temperatures listed in AATCC test meth-
919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ygen in powdered non-chlorine bleaches or ods were established at the time the methods
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org, synthetic detergent products, grind the gran- were developed or revised, and closely mirror
for model number(s) and source(s) of current ules in a Waring blender prior to weighing. the temperature ranges specified in 16 CFR
recommended dryer(s). Any other dryer which Using an analytical balance which is accurate Part 423 for care labels. It should also be
is known to give comparable results can be to 0.002 g, weigh 3.000 ± 0.001 g of sample noted that AATCC test methods were devel-
used. Dryer machine conditions given in into a 250-300 mL Erlenmeyer flask. Place the oped using traditional top loading washing
AATCC LP1 represent the actual speeds and sample on a magnetic stirrer protecting it from machines. Specified water level, detergent,
times available on current specified model(s). the light with a cardboard box. Put a hole in and other details are not applicable to high ef-
Other dryers may vary in one or more of these the box top that allows a funnel to be used to ficiency top loading or front loading ma-
settings. add chemicals and support it with a ring and chines. New, commercially available home
13.5 Screen or perforated conditioning/dry- stand. Use a Teflon coated stir bar. Add 100 laundering machines may have to be modified
ing racks available from Somers Sheet Metal mL of 1.5N sulfuric acid (H2SO4), 15.0 mL of by the user to meet the specifications in vari-
Inc., 5590 N. Church St., Greensboro NC 15.0% potassium iodide (150 g KI/L) and 10.0 ous test methods. All test reports should indi-
27405; tel: +1.336.643.3477; fax: +1.336.643. mL of methylene chloride (CH2Cl2). Stir, in cate the exact testing conditions, and any
7443. Rack drawings are available from the dark provided by the cardboard box, for at modification of the standard method, includ-
AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle least 15 min but do not exceed 30 min. Pro- ing use of M6 parameters. Results of tests per-
Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: vide indirect light as you titrate slowly but formed with different conditions may not be
+1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@aatcc. steadily with 0.1N sodium thiosulfate comparable.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM172-2010e(2016)e2 339
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM174-2022

Test Method for Antimicrobial Activity of New Carpets

1. Purpose and Scope Method for Using Seeded-Agar for the ers for specific details such as equipment
Screening Assessment of Antimicrobial operating instructions and other recom-
1.1 This test method is designed to de- Activity In Carpets (see 31.2). mendations. Consult and follow all appli-
termine the antimicrobial activity of new 3.4 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for cable health and safety regulations (e.g.
carpet materials and consists of three pro- Sampling Design (see 31.2). OSHA standards and rules).
cedures: a qualitative antibacterial assess- 3.5 Centers for Disease Control. Bio- 5.4 See 3.5, 8.1, 11.1 for additional
ment, a quantitative antibacterial assess- safety in Microbiological and Biomedical safety precautions and personnel training
ment and qualitative antifungal Laboratories (see 31.3). related to handling bacteria and fungi.
assessment. It may also be used to evalu-
ate the effect of a cleaning process
4. Terminology 6. Uses and Limitations
(agreed upon by the interested parties) on
the antimicrobial resistance of carpets. 4.1 activity, n.—of an antimicrobial 6.1 This test method is designed for
agent, a measure of effectiveness of the use only for new carpets and must not be
2. Principle agent. used for carpets that have been laid down
4.2 antibacterial agent, n.—any and used.
2.1 This test method consists of three chemical which kills bacteria (bacteri-
procedures, Test I, II and III, which can cide) or interferes with the multiplication, I. Qualitative Assessment of
be used singly or in combination. growth or activity of bacteria (bacteri- Antibacterial Activity on Carpets:
2.1.1 Test I is a qualitative assessment ostat). Single Streak Method
of antibacterial activity. Specimens of the 4.3 antifungal agent, n.—any chemi-
test material, including corresponding cal which kills or inhibits the growth of
untreated controls of the same material (if 7. Apparatus (see 31.4)
fungi.
available but not required), are placed in 4.4 antimicrobial agent, n.—any 7.1 Incubator maintained at 37 ± 2°C
intimate contact with the agar surface chemical which kills or inhibits the (99 ± 4°F).
which has been previously streaked with growth of microorganisms. 7.2 Water bath maintained at 45-50°C
a bacterial culture. After incubation, a 4.5 bacterial resistance, n.—in tex- (113-122°F).
clear area of interrupted growth under- tiles, resistance to the development of 7.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent.
neath and along the sides of the test mate- visible bacterial growth and accompany- 7.4 Stereomicroscope, minimum 40×
rial indicates antibacterial activity of the ing odors, resulting from bacterial degra- magnification.
specimen. Standard strains of bacteria are dation of fibers or soil on them, as distin- 7.5 Autoclave.
used with Staphylococcus aureus (gram- guished from musty fungal odors. 7.6 Vortex or equivalent.
positive) and Klebsiella pneumoniae 4.6 mildew resistance, n.—in textiles,
(gram-negative), the representative or- resistance to the development of un- 8. Materials (see 31.4)
ganisms. sightly fungal growths and accompany-
2.1.2 Test II provides a quantitative ing unpleasant, musty odors on carpet 8.1 Bacteria species suitable for the in-
procedure for the comparison and evalua- materials exposed to conditions favoring tended end-use of the test sample. Some
tion of the degree of antibacterial activity such growths. bacteria are pathogenic (i.e., capable of
after a 24 h exposure to the test bacteria 4.7 rot resistance, n.—in textiles, re- infecting humans and producing disease).
on the carpet swatches. Test carpets are sistance to deterioration of a carpet mate- Take every necessary and reasonable pre-
inoculated with the test organisms. After rial as a result of fungal growth in or on caution to eliminate risk to laboratory
incubation, the bacteria are eluted from it. personnel and others in the associated en-
the swatches by shaking in known 4.8 zone of inhibition, n.—clear area vironment. Sterilize all contaminated
amounts of neutralizing liquid. The num- of no visible growth of a microorganism, samples and test materials prior to dis-
ber of bacteria present in this liquid is de- cultured onto the surface of agar growth posal. Any or all the following bacteria
termined, and the percent reduction by medium, in proximity to the borders of a may be used:
the specimen is calculated. specimen placed in direct contact with 8.1.1 Gram-positive: Staphylococcus
2.1.3 Test III is a qualitative assess- this agar surface. aureus, ATCC 6538, CIP 4.83, DSM 799,
ment of the antifungal activity of carpet NOTE: A zone of inhibition occurs as NBRC 13276, NCIMB 9518 or equiva-
and resistance to a common fungal organ- result of the diffusion of an antimicrobial lent strain (see 31.5 and 31.6).
ism on a sabouraud dextrose agar me- agent from the specimen. 8.1.2 Gram-negative: Klebsiella pneu-
dium. moniae, ATCC 4352, CIP 104216, DSM
5. Safety Precautions 789, NBRC 13277, NCIMB 10341 or
3. Referenced Documents equivalent strain (see 31.5 and 31.6)
5.1 The safety precautions specified in 8.1.3 Other species agreed upon by the
NOTE: Use current versions of all the method/procedure are ancillary to the interested parties.
publications unless otherwise specified. testing procedures and are not intended to 8.2 Broths/agars; Nutrient broth/agar,
3.1 AATCC TM138, Test Method for be all inclusive. Trypticase Soy broth/agar, Brain-Heart
Cleaning: Washing of Textile Floor Cov- 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- Infusion broth/agar, Müller-Hinton broth/
erings (see 31.1). erence applicable safety data sheets, use agar or other capable of growing and
3.2 AATCC TM171, Test Method for safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- maintaining the chosen bacterial test or-
Carpets: Cleaning of; Hot Water Extrac- propriate personal protective equipment ganism.
tion (see 31.1). in handling materials in this standard. 8.3 Distilled or deionized water, sterile.
3.3 ASTM E2471, Standard Test 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- 8.4 Inoculating loop, 4-mm.

340 AATCC TM174-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
unit of product must have a mathemati- transversely across the inoculum streak to 14.1 Precision. Precision for this test
cally equal chance of becoming a sample; ensure intimate contact with the agar sur- method has not been established. Until a
and every portion of each sample must be face. An easy technique is to press the precision statement is generated for this
equally likely to become a test specimen. specimen to the agar surface with a bio- test method, use standard statistical tech-
9.3 All specimens must be alike within logical section lifter or with a spatula niques in making any comparisons of test
the variations due to pure chance. There which has been sterilized in a flame and results for either within-laboratory or be-
must be no differences within samples as- then air-cooled immediately before use. tween-laboratory averages.
signable to known causes. Test both the pile (face fibers) and the 14.2. Bias. The antimicrobial activity
backing of the carpet on separate agar can be defined on in terms of a test
10. Specimens plates. method. There is no independent method
11.8 Incubate the plates at 37 ± 2°C (99 for determining the true value. As a
10.1 Test specimens (non-sterile) are ± 3°F) for 18-24 h. means of evaluating this property, the
cut by hand or with a die. They may be method has no known bias.
any convenient size although oblong 12. Evaluation
specimens cut 25 × 50 mm are recom- II. Quantitative Assessment of
mended. 12.1 Examine the incubated plates for Antibacterial Activity on Carpets
10.2 If possible, test a specimen of the interruption of growth along the streak of
same material treated in exactly the same inoculum beneath the specimen and for a 15. Apparatus (see 31.4)
way with whatever other finishing agents clear zone of inhibition beyond the speci-
were used, but without the antibacterial men edge. 15.1 Incubator maintained at 37 ± 2°C
agent. However, this is not essential for 12.2 Calculation of zone of inhibition (99 ± 4°F).
the validity of the test. Many standard size is optional. The width of the zone of 15.2 Water bath maintained at 45-50°C
finishing chemicals will give strong anti- inhibition around the test specimen may (113-122°F).
bacterial activity even after many clean- be calculated using Eq 1: 15.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent.
ings. 15.4 Autoclave.
10.3 Test 1 test specimen. Additional W = (T – D)/2 (Eq.1) 15.5 Vortex or equivalent.
test specimens may be used to increase where:
the precision of the average. W = width of clear zone of inhibition 16. Materials (see 31.4)
in mm
11. Procedure 16.1 Bacteria species suitable for the
T = total width of test specimen and
intended end-use of the test sample.
11.1 This test should be performed clear zone in mm
Some bacteria are pathogenic (i.e., capa-
only by trained personnel. Consult the D = width of the test specimen in mm
ble of infecting humans and producing
U.S. Department of Health and Human 12.3 The criterion for passing the test disease). Take every necessary and rea-
Services publication Biosafety in Micro- must be agreed upon by the interested sonable precaution to eliminate risk to
biological and Biomedical Laboratories parties. laboratory personnel and others in the as-
(see 3.5). 12.4 The size of the zone cannot be sociated environment. Sterilize all con-
11.2 If durability data is desired, carpet construed as a quantitative evaluation of taminated samples and test materials
specimens can be tested before and after antibacterial activity. The report of results prior to disposal. Any or all the following
being cleaned by a test method agreed will include an observation of zones of bacteria may be used:
upon by the interested parties i.e. AATCC inhibition and growth under the specimen 16.1.1 Gram-positive: Staphylococcus
TM138 (see 3.1) or AATCC TM 171 (see if present. aureus, ATCC 6538, CIP 4.83, DSM 799,
3.2) NBRC 13276, NCIMB 9518 or equiva-
11.3 Dispense sterilized (appropriate 13. Report lent strain (see 31.5 and 31.6).
medium) agar cooled to 45 ± 2°C (117 ± 16.1.2 Gram-negative: Klebsiella
4°F) by pouring 15.0 ± 2.0 mL into each 13.1 Describe or identify the sample pneumoniae, ATCC 4352, CIP 104216,
standard (15 × 100 mm) flat bottomed tested. DSM 789, NBRC 13277, NCIMB 10341
Petri dish. Allow the agar to gel firmly 13.2 Report that the sample was tested or equivalent strain (see 31.5 and 31.6).
before inoculating. using AATCC TM174-2022 Test I. 16.1.3 Other species agreed upon by
11.4 Prepare the test organism by tak- 13.3 Report the testing conditions: the interested parties.
ing a sterilized inoculation loop and inoc- 13.3.1 Size of test specimen used. 16.2 Broths/agars; Nutrient broth/agar,
ulating separate culture tubes of the ap- 13.3.2 Number of test replicates used. Trypticase Soy broth/agar, Brain-Heart
propriate broth with the organism to be 13.3.3 Number of carpet cleanings (if Infusion broth/agar, Müller-Hinton broth/
used. Incubate the cultures at 37 ± 2°C any) and the method used. agar or other capable of growing and
(99 ± 4°F) for 18-24 h. 13.3.4 If the test specimen was steril- maintaining the chosen bacterial test or-
11.5 Prepare inoculum by transferring ized prior to testing and the method of ganism.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM174-2022 341
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
16.3 Distilled or deionized water. then briefly blotting it on sterile filter pa- 1) 100(B – A)/B = R (Eq.2)
16.4 Inoculating loop. per. 2) 100(C – A)/C = R (Eq.3)
16.5 Pipettes, 1 mL, sterile or equiva- 19.4 Prepare the test organism by tak- 3) 100(D – A/D) = R (Eq.4)
lent. ing a sterilized inoculation loop and inoc-
16.6 Culture Tubes with caps; mini- ulating separate culture tubes of the ap- where:
mum 10 mL capacity, sterile propriate broth with the organism to be A = the number of bacteria recovered
16.7 Petri dishes, 100 mm diam. × 15 used. Incubate the cultures at 37 ± 2°C from the inoculated treated test
mm deep, flat-bottom, sterile. (99 ± 4°F) for 18-24 h. carpet in the container incubated
16.8 Forceps, sterile. 19.5 Apply 0.1-0.5 mL of an 18-24 h over the desired contact period.
16.9 Ruler, marked in millimeters. broth bacterial inoculum adjusted to 1-2 B = the number of bacteria recovered
16.10 0.85% Saline solution, sterile. × 105 CFU/mL on the prewetted carpet fi- from the inoculated treated test
16.11 Wetting agent (see 31.7). bers. The dilution of the test organism carpet in the container immedi-
16.12 Neutralizing broth; Letheen, D/E may be prepared in sterile 0.85% saline ately after inoculation (at 0 con-
broth or other appropriate for the antimi- solution or suitable buffer if a steady- tact time).
crobial compound being tested (see 31.8). state culture is needed during the contact C = the number of bacteria recovered
16.13 Container with lid. Minimum period. If, however, this test is to be per- from the inoculated untreated
120 mL capacity, to fit carpet specimens. formed under in-use conditions, use nu- control carpet in the container
Sterile. trient broth as the dilution medium. immediately after inoculation (at
19.6 Inoculate the carpet fibers evenly 0 contact time). If B and C are not
17. Sampling using a sterile pipette and place the speci- similar, the larger number should
men in a sterile container. Close or be used. If B and C are not sig-
17.1 Test results are valid only when tighten the lid tightly to prevent evapora- nificantly different, (B + C)/2
the samples are statistically representation. should be used.
tive (see ASTM E1402). 19.7 Immediately after inoculation (0 D = (B + C)/2.
17.2 Sampling must be random. Every contact time), add 100 ± 0.1 mL of neu- R = % reduction.
unit of product must have a mathemati- tralizer solution to the sterile container
cally equal chance of becoming a sample; 20.3 If an untreated control for carpet
19.8 Shake the container, either me- is not available, use the following calcu-
and every portion of each sample must be chanically or by hand, vigorously for 1
equally likely to become a test specimen. lation which allows for any background
min. Make serial dilutions and plate (in organisms that might interfere with the
17.3 All specimens must be alike duplicate) on nutrient (or appropriate)
within the variations due to pure chance. test:
agar to obtain colonies in a countable
There must be no differences within sam- range. Incubate all plates for 24 h at 37 ± Bg = 100 {(B – E) – (A – F)/B – E} (Eq.5)
ples assignable to known causes. 2°C (99 ± 3°F). Record the number of where:
bacteria recovered. A = the number of bacteria recovered
18. Specimens 19.9 Incubation over contact periods. from the inoculated treated test
18.1 Cut a circular disc of approxi- Incubate additional containers contain- carpet in the container incubated
mately 48 mm in diameter from the test ing inoculated carpet discs at 37 ± 2°C over the desired contact period.
carpet (preferably with a steel die). Place (99 ± 3°F) for 6-24 h. Similar containers B = the number of bacteria recovered
the disc in a sterile container. The carpet may be incubated over other periods (i.e., from the inoculated treated test
disc should lie flat at the bottom of the 1 or 6 h) to provide information about the carpet in the container immedi-
container. bacteriocidal activity of the treatment ately after inoculation (at 0 con-
18.2 An uninoculated treated carpet over such periods. tact time).
may be used to determine the level of 19.10 Sampling of inoculated and in- E = the number of bacteria initially (0
background organisms present on the car- cubated swatches. After incubation, add contact time) recovered from the
pet. 100 ± 0.1 mL of neutralizer solution to uninoculated, treated test carpet
18.3 If the sample is sterilized, note the containers containing treated carpet discs. (existing background organisms).
method of sterilization in report. Shake the Containers vigorously for 1 F = the number of bacteria recovered
18.4 Test 3 replicates. Additional test min. Make serial dilutions and plate (in from the uninoculated, prewet
specimens may be used to increase the duplicate) on nutrient (or appropriate) treated test carpet after incuba-
precision of the average. agar to obtain colonies in a countable tion in the container over the de-
range. Several different dilutions may be sired contact period (existing
19. Procedure required for untreated control carpets de- background organisms after con-
pending on the incubation period. tact period).
19.1 This test should be performed 19.11 Incubate all plates for 24 h at 37 Bg = background organisms.
only by trained personnel. Consult the ± 2°C (99 ± 3°F). Record the number of
U.S. Department of Health and Human bacteria recovered. 20.4 The criterion for passing the test
Services publication Biosafety in Micro- must be determined by the interested
biological and Biomedical Laboratories 20. Calculations, Interpretation, parties.
(see 3.5). Evaluation
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

19.2 If durability data is required, test 21. Report

carpet specimens before and after being 20.1 Report bacterial counts as the
cleaned in accordance with a method number of bacteria per specimen, not as 21.1 Describe or identify the sample
agreed upon by the interested parties i.e. the number of bacteria per mL of neutral- tested.
AATCC TM138 (see 3.1) or AATCC izer solution. If there are no bacterial col- 21.2 Report that the sample was tested
TM171 (see 3.2). onies on the dilution plates, then report as using AATCC TM174-2022 Test II.
19.3 The carpet disc may be prewetted “less than 100.” 21.3 Report the testing conditions:
by dipping it in sterile deionized water or 20.2 Calculate percent reduction of 21.3.1 Size of test specimen used.
in water containing 0.05% of a non-bac- bacteria by the specimen treatments by 21.3.2 Number of test replicates used.
teriocidal wetting agent (see 31.7) and one of the following formulas: 21.3.3 Number of carpet cleanings (if

342 AATCC TM174-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
any) and the method used. 25.3 All specimens must be alike on filter paper. Place the carpet disc on
21.3.4 If the test specimen was steril- within the variations due to pure chance. the surface of the agar. Distribute evenly
ized prior to testing and the method of There must be no differences within sam- over each disc 0.2 mL of fungal spore in-
sterilization. ples assignable to known causes. oculum by means of a sterile pipette. In-
21.3.5 Wetting agent, neutralizing oculate the carpet specimens with the
broth, dilution liquid, and agar media 26. Specimens face fibers up and also with the fibers
used. down in separate Petri dishes. If testing
21.3.6 Organism used. 26.1 Cut 38.0 ± 1.0 mm (1.5 ± 0.04 in.) carpet samples with fibers shaven, the
21.3.7 Incubation time. diameter discs from the sample. Other samples should be placed both in the
21.4 Report the test results: shapes and sizes can be used provided the shaven fibers up and also with fibers
21.4.1 Assessment according to section anticipated sizes of growth-free zones are shaven down orientation in separate Petri
20. taken into consideration. dishes. Incubate the inoculated plates at
21.5 Describe any modification(s) of 26.2 For primary backing assessment, 28 ± 1°C (82 ± 2°F) for 7 days. Longer

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
the published standard. an additional set of carpet discs may be periods of incubation may be used to pro-
included; as per ASTM E2471, which vide information about antifungal activ-
22. Precision and Bias
have the face fibers removed via electric ity.
clippers to a height of 3 ± 1 mm. This
22.1 Studies (see 31.9) indicate the fol- permits the fungal spore inoculum to be 28. Evaluation
lowing within-laboratory precision of the placed and assessed directly at the base of
Standard Plate Count (SPC) Test: (a) the fiber/primary backing and must be 28.1 Assess the activity of the carpet as
among-analyst variation of 18%, and (b) noted in the report. follows:
within-analyst variation of 8%. 26.3 Test 1 test specimen. Additional 28.1.1 From the plate with the speci-
III. Antifungal Activity Assessment of test specimens may be used to increase men whose pile is down and whose back-
Carpet Materials: Mildew and Rot the precision of the average. ing is up, observe and measure the size of
Resistance of Carpet Materials any growth-free zone (in mm) produced
27. Procedure by the pile fibers and also do the same for
23. Apparatus (see 31.4) specimens that have face fibers shaven.
27.1 This test should be performed Also from the same plate, record fungal
23.1 Incubator maintained at 28 ± 1°C only by trained personnel. Consult the growth on the backing according to the
(82 ±2°F). U.S. Department of Health and Human scheme below.
23.2 Water bath maintained at 45-50°C Services publication Biosafety in Micro- 28.1.2 From the other plate with the
(113-122°F). biological and Biomedical Laboratories specimen whose backing is down and
23.3 Bunsen Burner or equivalent. (see 3.5). whose pile or the shaven pile layer is up-
23.4 Autoclave. 27.2 If cleaning durability data are re- permost, observe and measure the size of
23.5 Vortex or equivalent. quired, new carpet specimens can be any growth-free zone (in mm) from the
23.6 Stereo-Microscope. tested before and after being cleaned in backing and score the fungal growth on
23.7 Counting chamber or equivalent; accordance with a method agreed upon the pile side or the shaven pile side ac-
e.g., hemocytometer. by the interested parties i.e. AATCC cording to the scheme given below.
TM138 (see 3.1) or AATCC TM171 (see 28.1.3 Scoring Scheme:
24. Materials (see 31.4) 3.2). Observed Growth
27.3 Inoculum: The spore suspension 0 = No growth (if present, report the
24.1 Aspergillus niger ATCC 6275, of Aspergillus niger is prepared by add- size of the growth-free zone in
DSM1957, NRRL 334, CBS 769.97 or ing 10 mL of a sterile 0.9% saline solu- mm)
131.52, CCUG 26806 (see 31.5 and tion containing 0.05% of a nonionic wet- 1 = Microscopic growth (visible only
31.6). ting agent (see31.7) to a 7-10 day agar under the microscope)
24.2 Sabouraud Dextrose Agar. culture and scrapes the surface of the cul- 2 = Macroscopic growth (visible to
24.3 Distilled or deionized water. ture to liberate spores. Transfer the scrap- the eye)
24.4 0.85% Saline solution ings to a sterile flask or other suitable If macroscopic growth is observed report
24.5 Wetting agent (see 31.7). container containing 50 ± 1 mL of sterile growth according to the following cover-
24.6 Gauze or glass wool, sterile. 0.9% saline solution with 0.05% of a age:
24.7 Sterile scraping instrument; Plati- nonionic wetting agent and sterile glass Traces of Growth (<10%), Light
num or nichrome wire, plastic loop or beads. Shake the dispersion vigorously to Growth (10-30%), Medium Growth (30-
needle, glass rod, or swab. break up any clumps of spores and then 60%), Heavy Growth (60% to totally
24.8 Glass beads, sterile. filter through a thin layer of sterile cotton covered).
24.9 Pipette, sterile. or glass wool. The spore suspension may
24.10 Petri dishes, 100 mm diam. × 15 be stored at 6 ± 4°C (43 ± 7°F) for up to 4 29. Report
mm deep or 100 mm diam. × 20 mm weeks. Inoculum for test should be ad-
deep, flat-bottom, sterile. justed to produce a final population of 8.0 29.1 Describe or identify the sample
24.11 ruler, marked in millimeters. × 105 to 1.2 × 106 per mL on day of use by tested.
appropriate dilution of stock suspension 29.2 Report that the sample was tested
25. Sampling with sterile 0.9% saline solution. Use this using AATCC TM174-2022 Test III.
spore suspension for inoculation. 29.3 Report the testing conditions:
25.1 Test results are valid only when 27.4 Inoculation: Mix the spore sus- 29.3.1 Size of test specimen used.
the samples are statistically representa- pension using appropriate agitation or by 29.3.2 Number of test replicates used.
tive (see ASTM E1402). using a vortex. Distribute 1.0 ± 0.1 mL of 29.3.3 Number of carpet cleanings (if
25.2 Sampling must be random. Every the inoculum over the surface of the agar. any) and the method used.
unit of product must have a mathemati- Prewet the carpet fibers by dipping the 29.3.4 If the test specimen was steril-
cally equal chance of becoming a sample; carpet disc in sterile deionized water or in ized prior to testing and the method of
and every portion of each sample must be water containing 0.05% of a nonionic sterilization.
equally likely to become a test specimen. wetting agent, and then briefly blotting 29.3.5 Organism used and concentra-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM174-2022 343
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tion of the fungal spore suspension. www.aatcc.org. quires maintenance of a pure, uncontaminated,
29.3.6 Wetting agent used. 31.2 Available from ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor non-mutant test culture. Avoid contamination
29.3.7 Incubation time. Drive, P.O. Box C700, West Conshohocken, by using good sterile technique in plating and
29.4 Report the test results: PA, 19428-2959, USA; Tel: +1.610.832.9500, transferring. Avoid mutation by strict adher-
Fax: +1.610.832.9555, [email protected]. ence to monthly stock transfers. Check culture
29.4.1 The assessment according to purity by making streak plates periodically
section 28. 31.3 Available from CDC. Website: https://
www.cdc.gov/labs/BMBL.html. and observing for single species-characteristic
29.5 Describe any modification(s) of type of colonies.
31.4 For potential apparatus, reagents or
the published standard. materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s 31.7 Suitable wetting agents include dioctyl
Guide at www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides sodium sulfosuccinate, N-methyl-tauride de-
30. Precision and Bias its Corporate members the option to list their rivatives, Polysorbate 80, Triton X-100.
items and services. AATCC does not qualify, 31.8 The following are examples of ingre-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
30.1 Precision. Precision for this test or in any way approve, endorse or certify that dients and their concentrations that may be
method has not been established. Until a any of the listings meet the specifications in its added to the culture medium to neutralize in-
precision statement is generated for this standards. hibitory substances present in the sample: soy
method, use standard statistical tech- lecithin, 0.5%; and Polysorbate™ 20 and 80,
31.5 ATCC is the American Type Culture
4.0%
niques in making any comparisons of test Collection (USA), CIP is the Pasteur Institute
31.9 Peeler, J. T., J. W. Leslie and J. W.
results for either within-laboratory or be- Collection (France), DSM is the German Col-
lection of Microorganisms and Cell Cultures Messer, Replicate counting errors by analysts
tween-laboratory averages. and bacterial colony counters. Journal of
30.2 Bias. The antimicrobial activity (Germany); NBRC is the NITE Biological Re-
source Center (Japan), NRRL Northern Re- Food Protection, Vol. 45, 1982, pp238-240.
can be defined on in terms of a test gional Research Lab (USA), NCIMB is the
method. There is no independent method National Collection of Industrial Bacteria
for determining the true value. As a 32. History
(UK), CUG is the Culture Collection Univer-
means of evaluating this property, the sity of Göteborg (Sweden). Equivalent bacte- 32.1 Revised in 2022 to clarify and align
method has no known bias. ria strains obtained from agencies of the with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
World Federation of Culture Collection 32.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
31. Notes (WFCC) may be used by agreement between 2016. Revised 2011, 2010, 2004. Reaffirmed
the interested parties. The strains used in the 1998. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 1993.
31.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box test shall be documented with their supply Revised 1992.
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709, source. 32.3 Developed in 1991 by AATCC Com-
USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; 31.6 Consistent and accurate testing re- mittee RA31.

344 AATCC TM174-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM175-2013e2(2019)e

Test Method for Stain Resistance: Pile Floor Coverings

Developed in 1991 by AATCC Committee
RA57; reaffirmed 1992; reaffirmed and
editorially revised 1993, 1998, 2003,
2019; editorially revised 2006, 2016;
reaffirmed and editorially revised with
technical correction 2008; revised 2013.

1. Purpose and Scope

1.1 This test method is used to deter-
mine the resistance to staining by acid
food colors on pile floor coverings.

2. Principle
2.1 A specimen of pile floor covering is
stained with a small volume of a diluted
aqueous solution of Food Drug & Cos-
metic (FD&C) Red 40 adjusted to an acid
pH. After allowing the stained specimen
to remain at controlled conditions for 24
± 4 h, it is rinsed in water to remove all
unused FD&C Red 40 dye. Any residual
stain is assessed after drying.

3. Terminology
3.1 stain, n.—for pile floor covering, a
discoloration due to a color adding mate-
rial, such as food or liquid, that exhibits
resistance to removal by standard clean-
ing methods.
3.2 stainblocker, n.—a chemical sub-
stance which, when applied to a textile Fig. 1—AATCC stain cup and ring.
substrate, imparts partial or total resis-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
tance to staining.
5.2 AATCC Red 40 Stain Scale (see 7. Test Specimen
12.1)
4. Safety Precautions 7.1 Cut one specimen at least 150 mm
5.3 FD&C Red 40 (C.I. Food Red 17)
NOTE: These safety precautions are (see 12.1) (6 in.) square for each test to be run.
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.4 Citric acid (technical grade or better) 7.2 Remove any extraneous surface
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- materials by brushing and or vacuuming.
5.5 Deionized or distilled water
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 5.6 pH meter
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 8. Procedure
safe and proper techniques in the han- 5.7 Buffer solutions, pH 2.0 and 4.0
dling of materials in this test method. 8.1 Condition all test specimens, pile
Manufacturers MUST be consulted for 6. Staining Solution side up, on a nonabsorbent surface for 24
specific details such as material safety h at standard conditions of 21 ± 2°C (70 ±
data sheets and other manufacturer’s rec- 6.1 Weigh 100 ± 1 mg of FD&C Red 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH. Avoid contamina-
ommendations. All OSHA standards and 40 and dissolve in 1 L ± 10 mL of dis- tion by contact with extraneous materials
rules must also be consulted and followed. tilled or deionized water at 24 ± 3°C (75 (see 12.2).
4.1 Good laboratory practices should ± 5°F). 8.2 Place the 50 mm (2 in.) diameter
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.2 Adjust the pH of this solution to staining ring in the center of the test spec-
laboratory areas. 2.8 ± 0.1 with citric acid (approximately imen. While pressing down on the ring
4.2 All chemicals should be handled 3.2 g). Check the pH of the solution with pour 20 mL of the staining solution into
with care. a meter that has been calibrated with pH the center of the ring. Press the bottom of
2.0 and 4.0 buffer solutions. Due to their the stain cup through the ring into the
5. Apparatus and Materials lack of precision, the use of pH strips is pile, moving it up and down 5 times to fa-
not advised. If the pH of the prepared cilitate wetting of the pile fiber from top
5.1 AATCC stain cup and 50 mm (2.0 staining solution is below 2.7 discard this to bottom. Do not rotate or twist the cup
in.) diam staining ring (see 12.1 and Fig. 1) solution and prepare a new one. inside the ring since this may result in

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM175-2013e2(2019)e 345
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
surface abrasion which may remove the
stainblocker from the fiber surface. Care-
fully remove the staining ring and stain
cup.
8.3 Recondition the stained specimen
for 24 ± 4 h in a flat position, pile side up,
at standard conditions of 21 ± 2°C (70 ±
4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH (see 12.2). Avoid
any air draft which could result in an ac-
celerated drying of the stained surface.
8.4 Rinse the stained specimen with

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
running water at 21 ± 6°C (70 ± 10°F)
until the rinse water is clear which indi-
cates removal of all unfixed red dye.
Make sure to rinse the backing thor-
oughly for removal of red dye. Removal
of unfixed surface red dye is enhanced by
squeezing the specimen in the rinse water.
8.5 Extract (centrifuge or vacuum) the
wet specimen to remove excess water. Fig. 2—Illumination and viewing angles for rating samples.
8.6 Oven dry the test specimen in a flat
position, pile side up, at 100 ± 5°C (212 ±
9°F) for 90 min maximum or allow to air
dry. NOTE: Excessive time in the oven sary, alter the angle of illumination to cant level differences between labs related
can cause discoloration of the specimen. eliminate direct reflection of the incident to the application of the staining agent, so
8.7 If red dye wicks to the surface dur- light from the scale surface (see 12.4). the total method precision sigma (includ-
ing drying, repeat 8.4, 8.5 and 8.6. 9.4 Compare the color of the stained ing both the between and within-lab com-
portion of the test specimen to that of ponents) is 1. Therefore the between-lab
9. Evaluation of Results the closest numbered colored square of 95% confidence interval is ± 2.
the Stain Scale. Record the Stain Scale 11.2 No statement of bias can be made
9.1 Rate the stain resistance of the test number that most closely matches the because the true stain value cannot be es-
specimen by use of the AATCC Red 40 specimen’s stained area (see 12.3). In- tablished by an independent method.
Stain Scale, where a grade of 10 is no terpolation of Stain Scale numbers is not
staining and 1 is severely stained (see recommended.
12.3). 12. Notes
9.2 Rotate the specimen and/or gently
10. Report 12.1 AATCC Red 40 Stain Scale is avail-
brush the pile to produce the maximum
able from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research
display of visual red stain. Place the Red 10.1 Report the numerical grade for Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.
40 Stain Scale over the test specimen stain resistance as determined in Section 9. 919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
with the stained area of the test specimen 10.2 Report the presence of staining at [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
between the two reference columns and the base of the pile floor covering. 12.2 The presence of vapors and fumes
the non-stained portion (original) of the 10.3 Report any deviation from the test from a strong base; i.e., ammonia, etc., in the
test specimen directly under the num- procedure such as lighting conditions, an- test environment can increase the severity of
bered colored film square. gle of viewing, temperature, RH, etc. staining.
9.3 Illuminate the surfaces with north 12.3 Any test specimen which has a change
sky light or equivalent source with illu- in color or contrast decidedly greater than a
11. Precision and Bias grade of 1 should be given a grade a 0.
mination of 538 lx (50 lumens per square
foot) or more. The light should be inci- 11.1 Three interlaboratory tests were 12.4 Reflection of the incident light from
the scale surface will make it difficult to
dent upon the surfaces at 45 ± 5° and the conducted in 1989 and 1990. The results properly evaluate the test specimen. The
direction of viewing 90 ± 5° to the plane of these tests indicate that the within-lab problem generally occurs when either the
of the surfaces (see Fig. 2). Those angles method precision standard deviation is light source is too close to the scale or is
of incident light and viewing should min- 0.5 stain units. The within-lab 95% confi- too bright. These conditions should be
imize any gloss from the scale. If neces- dence interval is ± 1. There were signifi- avoided.

346 AATCC TM175-2013e2(2019)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM176-1996e7(2017)e

Test Method for Speckiness of Colorant Dispersions

Developed in 1992 by AATCC Commit- safe and proper techniques in handling 6.3 Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) (30%).
tee RA87; reaffirmed 1993, 2006, 2017; materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.4 Acetic acid (CH3COOH) (80%).
editorially revised 1994, 2004, 2008, turers MUST be consulted for specific
2009, 2010, 2013, 2019; revised 1995, details such as material safety data sheets 7. Preparation of Liquid Dispersions for
1996 (with title change); editorially re- and other manufacturer’s recommenda- Sampling
vised and reaffirmed 2001, 2011. Tech- tions. All OSHA standards and rules
nically equivalent to ISO 105-Z11. must also be consulted and followed. 7.1 On prolonged storage, liquid dis-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should persions tend to settle and may develop a
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all more or less tacky sediment. It is impera-
laboratory areas. tive to ensure complete homogeneity of
1. Purpose and Scope 4.2 All chemicals should be handled the dispersion prior to testing. Thor-
1.1 Agglomerates in colorant disper- with care. oughly mix dispersions in drums using a
sions may become apparent as specks on 4.3 Use heat resistant gloves when mechanical mixing device, such as a pro-
a continuously dyed (padded) or on a working at hot air ovens and thermofix- peller stirrer or homogenizer. The liquid
printed fabric, especially when pale and ation devices. must be smooth and free of sediment and
light shades are produced. 4.4 Exposure to chemicals used in this lumps before removing a sample for test-
1.2 This test method is used to deter- procedure must be controlled at or below ing. Thoroughly shake laboratory sam-
mine speckiness, primarily of disperse levels set by governmental authorities ples to ensure that all dried material ad-
dye, vat dye and pigment dispersions. (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health hering to the cover and sides of the
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- container is re-incorporated into the liq-
posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR uid. Then remove the cover and stir the
2. Principle 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov sample either mechanically or by hand
for latest version). In addition, the Ameri- until all sediment and/or lumps are com-
2.1 A dispersion of a dye is filtered pletely redispersed. Replace the cover
through a polyester/cotton blend fabric. can Conference of Governmental Indus-
trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold and again shake the sample to ensure
2.2 The degree of speckiness is as- complete homogeneity. Test the sample
sessed visually. Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time
weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short immediately after homogenization. When
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and storing the sample for future use, thor-
3. Terminology ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended oughly clean the lid and the container lip
as a general guide for air contaminant ex- prior to closure.
3.1 disperse dye, n.—an essentially posure which should be met (see 12.1).
water insoluble dye having affinity, when 8. Procedure
properly dispersed, for polyester, polya-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

mide and some other manufactured poly- 5. Apparatus and Materials

8.1 Identify the filter cloth with the ex-
meric fibers. 5.1 Filter cloth: 65/35 polyester/cotton, periment or sample number in one of the
3.2 dispersion, n.—in textile wet pro- bleached woven broadcloth (shirting corners and ensure that it is free of extra-
cessing, a suspension of very fine parti- weight), approx. 240 × 240 mm square. A neous specks.
cles in a liquid phase. fabric of similar construction and of vary- 8.2 Clean and dry the funnel. Prepare
3.3 pigment, n.—a colorant in particu- ing blend ratios may be used, but it must the funnel assembly by placing the top
late form which is insoluble in the sub- then be stated in the report. part of the funnel upside down on a clean
strate, but which can be dispersed in the 5.2 Funnel, Buchner, polypropylene, surface and drape the fabric over it as flat
substrate to modify its color. 110 mm diameter. Cut out the perforated as possible with the identification mark
3.4 speck, n.—a small particle, such as bottom smoothly and even with the rim facing down towards the surface. The
an agglomerate in a liquid dispersion, or using a knife or other suitable implement. side of the fabric with the identification
a very small spot of dark color on a dyed Both parts are used in the test. will then be on top during filtration and is
substrate. 5.3 Filtering flask, heavy wall with used for subsequent evaluation (see 9.1).
3.5 speckiness, n.—in textile dyeing side tabulation, 2 L. Snap and press the bottom half of the
and printing, the quality or state of con- 5.4 Rubber stopper, 1 hole, to fit the funnel to the top half, causing the fabric
taining specks. filtering flask. to become a tight, smooth filter in the
3.6 vat dye, n.—a water-insoluble dye, 5.5 Stirrer, small propeller type, diame- funnel.
usually containing keto groups, which is ter approx. 20 mm, speed up to 2,200 rpm. 8.3 Place the assembled funnel straight
normally applied to the fiber from an al- 5.6 Dishes, evaporating, glass or por- on the filtering flask using the rubber
kaline aqueous solution of the reduced celain, 1 L (approx. 150 mm diameter), stopper to ensure that the funnel remains
enol (leuco) form which is subsequently three, for testing vat dyes. upright (and the filter fabric horizontal)
oxidized in the fiber to the insoluble form. 5.7 Ovens. during filtration and rinsing.
5.7.1 Drying, without air circulation. 8.4 Weigh 7.5 ± 0.075 g of 100% pow-
4. Safety Precautions 5.7.2 Thermofixation. der or 15.0 ± 0.15 g of 50% liquid (or an
equivalent weight of other concentra-
NOTE: These safety precautions are 6. Reagents (only for testing vat dyes) tions) in a weighing cup and transfer to a
for information purposes only. The pre- 400 mL graduated beaker containing ap-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6.1 Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) (30%). prox. 200 mL deionized or distilled water
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.2 Sodium hydrosulfite conc. powder at room temperature. Rinse the weighing
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use (Na2S2O4). cup with water from a spray bottle.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM176-1996e7(2017)e 347
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.5 With powder and granular forms: 12.2) at 60-70°C (140-158°F) containing acceptability on user requirements; for ex-
stir 3 min with the propeller of the stirrer 15.7 mL/L sodium hydroxide, 50%, and ample, acceptable, marginal, unacceptable.
in the center and just above the container 20 g/L sodium hydrosulfite conc. powder
bottom. Adjust the stirrer and speed to (88-92%). 10. Report
create a vortex terminating at the top of 8.14.2 Fully immerse the filter cloth in
the propeller. the reducing solution in the evaporating 10.1 Report the dyestuff tested and
8.6 With liquid forms: stir as in 8.5 ex- dish for 5 min. Do not move the cloth weight used, the number of specks and
cept for 30 s. during this time. the speckiness rating.
8.7 After stirring, transfer the disper- 8.14.3 Immerse the filter cloth for 1
sion to the 1 L beaker. Rinse the 400 mL min without agitation in an evaporating 11. Precision and Bias
beaker with 200 mL deionized or distilled dish containing deionized or distilled wa-
water at room temperature and pour the ter at 15-25°C (59-77°F). 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
rinse water into the 1 L beaker. Dilute the 8.14.4 Prepare 100 mL of an oxidizing method has not been established. Until a
dispersion further to 800 mL. solution in an evaporating dish at 40- precision statement is generated for this
8.8 Pre-wet the fabric in the filter with 50°C (104-122°F) containing 10 mL/L method, use standard statistical tech-
200 mL water. hydrogen peroxide, 30%. niques in making any comparisons of test
8.14.5 Fully immerse the filter cloth in results for either comparisons of test
8.9 Stir the dispersion in the beaker for results for either within-laboratory or
approx. 30 s and pour it into the funnel. the oxidizing solution in the evaporating
dish for 2 min. Do not move the cloth between-laboratory averages.
8.10 Rinse the beaker with 200 mL 11.2 Bias. Speckiness of colorant dis-
water and pour it into the funnel. during this time.
8.14.6 Neutralize the filter cloth for persions can be defined only in terms of a
8.11 Rinse the funnel with an addi-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
2 min at 15-25°C (59-77°F) with 200 mL/ test method. There is no independent
tional 200 mL water and let stand for method for determining the true value.
about 1 min until dripping has completely L acetic acid, 80%, in a 400 mL beaker.
8.14.7 Rinse for approx. 30 s in cold As a means of estimating this property,
stopped. the method has no known bias.
8.12 Carefully remove the filter cloth running water.
from the funnel and place it on a blotting 8.14.8 Dry the fabric in an oven at 80
paper to remove excess water. ± 5°C (176 ± 9°F). 12. Notes
8.13 For disperse dyes: 8.15 For pigments:
12.1 Available from Publications Office,
8.15.1 Dry the fabric in an oven with- ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
8.13.1 Dry the fabric in an oven with-
out air circulation at 80 ± 5°C (176 ± 9°F). Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
out air circulation at 80 ± 5°C (176 ± 9°F).
8.13.2 Thermosol (heat) for 60 s at 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
9. Evaluation 12.2 The reason for using evaporating
210-220°C (410-428°F). dishes for the reduction and oxidation of vat
8.14 For vat dyes proceed as follows: 9.1 Visually examine the fabric for dyes is to keep the fabric flat and without agi-
8.14.1 Prepare 400 mL of a fresh reduc- specks on the side with the identification tation. This prevents any specks from dissolv-
ing solution in an evaporating dish (see mark. Count individual specks. Base the ing and leveling.

348 AATCC TM176-1996e7(2017)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM179-2019

Test Method for Skew Change in Fabrics After Home Laundering

Foreword 3.11 ASTM D3882, Standard Test lb) capacity.
Method for Bow and Skew of Woven 6.8 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type
AATCC TM179 is used to evaluate the and Knitted Fabrics (see 15.2). 3 (see Table IV).
change in fabric skew after home launder- 3.12 ISO 6330, Textiles—Domestic 6.9 Standard tumble dryer (see Table
ing. AATCC TM207 is for evaluation of washing and drying procedures for textile III and 15.5), or facilities for drip/line
seam twist before and after home laun- testing (see 15.3). drying.
dering. ASTM D3882 is only used to 6.10 Digital Imaging System (op-
evaluate fabric skew in its original (un- tional, see 15.6).
laundered) state. The relationship among 4. Terminology
results of these methods is unknown; re- 4.1 laundering, n.—of textile materi-
sults of one method should not be com- 7. Test Specimens
als, a process intended to remove soils
pared to those of another method. and/or stains by treatment (washing) 7.1 Test Specimens from Fabric Sam-
with an aqueous detergent solution and ples.
1. Purpose normally including rinsing, 7.1.1 Consider each roll of fabric to be a
extraction and drying. sample. Randomly select rolls from each
1.1 This test method is used to deter- 4.2 skew, n.—a fabric condition result- production lot as agreed.
mine change in skew of fabrics as a re- ing when filling yarns or knitted courses 7.1.2 Test 3 specimens from each sam-
sult of home laundering. are angularly displaced from a line per- ple. Cut specimens for Marking Method 1
1.2 This test is applicable to all woven pendicular to the edge or side of the fabric at least 380 × 380 mm (15 × 15 in.) Cut
and knitted fabrics suitable for home (see ASTM D123). specimens for Marking Method 2 at least
laundering. 380 × 660 mm (15 × 26 in.)
5. Safety Precautions 7.1.3 Where possible, cut specimens
2. Principle from different areas of the fabric so that
NOTE: These safety precautions are each specimen will contain different
2.1 Marks are applied to fabric or gar- for information purposes only. The pre- groups of lengthwise and widthwise
ment specimens before laundering. The cautions are ancillary to the testing pro- yarns. Identify fabric face; mark length-
alignment of marks is measured after 3 cedures and are not intended to be all wise direction on each specimen.
standard laundering cycles. Percent skew inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility 7.1.4 If it is of interest to determine
is calculated and direction of skew re- to use safe and proper techniques in whether the magnitude of the skew
corded. A value close to zero indicates handling materials in this test method. change is different from one side of the
little or no skew; a higher value indicates Manufacturers MUST be consulted for fabric to the other, prepare 3 specimens
greater skew; the calculations in this specific details such as material safety from each area of interest. Identify area
method do not produce negative skew data sheets and other manufacturer’s rec- from which each set of specimens was
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

values. ommendations. All OSHA standards and taken; i.e., left-side, center or right-side.
rules must also be consulted and fol- 7.1.5 Test specimens prepared for
3. Referenced Documents lowed. AATCC TM124 and/or AATCC TM135
5.1 Good laboratory practices should be may also be tested by this method, using
3.1 AATCC LP1, Home Laundering: followed. Wear safety glasses in all labo-
Machine Washing (see 15.1). Marking Method 1 (see 15.7), or Mark-
ratory areas. ing Method 2, provided specimens are
3.2 AATCC LP2, Home Laundering: 5.2 Detergent may cause irritation. cut large enough to accommodate the re-
Hand Washing (see 15.1). Care should be taken to prevent expo- quired markings.
3.3 AATCC TM124, Smoothness Ap- sure to skin and eyes. 7.2 Test Specimens from Garment
pearance of Fabrics after Home Launder- 5.3 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- Samples.
ing (see 15.1). dations should be followed when operat- 7.2.1 Consider each garment to be a
3.4 AATCC TM133, Colorfastness to ing laboratory testing equipment. sample. Randomly select garments from
Heat: Hot Pressing (see 15.1). each production lot as agreed.
3.5 AATCC TM135, Dimensional 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 15.4) 7.2.2 Test 3 garments or a total of 3
Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder- panels from 2 garments. Use the largest
ing (see 15.1). 6.1 Conditioning facilities and condi- panels in the garments. Consider each
3.6 AATCC TM143, Appearance of tioning/drying racks with pull-out, perfo- tested panel to be a specimen.
Apparel and Other Textile End Products rated shelves (see 15.1). 7.2.3 Test specimens prepared for
after Home Laundering (see 15.1). 6.2 Indelible ink marking pen (see AATCC TM143, AATCC TM150, and/or
3.7 AATCC TM150, Dimensional 15.1). AATCC TM207 may also be tested by this
Changes of Garments after Home Laun- 6.3 Right-angle marking device (trian- method, using Marking Method 1 or 2.
dering (see 15.1). gle, L-square or template).
3.8 AATCC TM207, Seam Twist in 6.4 Tape or rule marked in millimeters, 8. Conditioning
Garments Before and After Home Laun- tenths of an inch or smaller increments.
dering (see 15.1). 6.5 Standard washing machine (see Ta- 8.1 Prior to marking, condition test
3.9 ASTM D123, Standard Terminol- ble I and 15.5). specimens as directed in ASTM D1776.
ogy Relating to Textiles (see 15.2). 6.6 AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Use conditions indicated in Table 1 for
3.10 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice Detergent (powder, with brightener) (see Textiles, general and conditioning time as
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles 15.1). indicated in Table 2 for the appropriate fi-
(see 15.2). 6.7 Balance with at least 5.0 kg (10.0 ber content.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM179-2019 349
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
≥ 380 mm

≥ 75 mm
B B
90° 90°

≥ 380 mm

≥ 660 mm

500 mm
500 mm
250 mm 250 mm
B C B C
90° 90°
≥ 380 mm

250 mm
250 mm

90° 90°
Y 90° Z Y 90° Z
A ≥ 75 mm A
A D A ≥ 75 mm D ≥ 75 mm

Fig. 1—Marking Method 1 for fabric (left) and garment (right). Fig. 2—Marking Method 2 for fabric (left) and garment (right).

8.1.1 Lay specimens flat, separately, on Fig. 2). 10.1.1 Select washing conditions for
a screen or perforated shelf of a condi- 9.2.1 Mark specimens without tension testing from Table I. Set washing ma-
tioning rack. For garments normally on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface. chine controls to generate the selected cy-
stored hung, hang separately on hangers 9.2.2 On each specimen, mark refer- cle parameters.
to condition. Allow space for air move- ence line YZ perpendicular to the length 10.1.2 Load for laundering shall con-
ment on all sides of the garment. of the specimen, at least 75 mm (3 in.) sist of all specimens in the sample,
8.2 Specimens will be conditioned above the bottom edge. plus enough laundering ballast pieces to
again after laundering. 9.2.3 Mark A midway on YZ. make a total load weight of 1.8 ± 0.1 kg
9.2.4 Place one side of a right-angle (4.0 ± 0.2 lb).
9. Marking of Specimens marking device along YZ so that the per- 10.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Al-
pendicular side extends upward from low machine to fill to specified water
9.1 Marking Method 1 (see 15.8 and point A. Mark a line along this side of level.
Fig. 1). the right-angle marking device, upward 10.1.4 Add 66 ± 1 g of AATCC 1993
9.1.1 Mark specimens without tension from point A, perpendicular to YZ, at least Standard Reference Detergent to washing
on a flat, smooth, horizontal surface. 500 mm (20-in.) long. machine as directed by washing machine
9.1.2 On each specimen, mark 250-mm 9.2.5 Mark point B along the second manufacturer’s instructions. If detergent
(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks parallel to line, 500 mm (20-in) above point A. If is added directly to wash water, agitate
the length of the specimen and 250-mm the specimen size is insufficient to mark briefly to dissolve completely. Stop agita-
(10-in.) pairs of benchmarks perpendicu- a 500-mm (20-in.) length, mark B at the tion before adding wash load.
lar to the length of the specimen. Indi- farthest available point along the line that 10.1.5 Add wash load (test speci-
cate any alternate benchmark distances in is at least 75 mm (3 in.) below the upper mens and ballast), distributing evenly
the test report (see 15.9). edge of the test specimen. Indicate any al- around center agitator. Restart wash cy-
9.1.3 Extend and connect benchmarks ternate distance in the test report. cle.
so that a square is formed. Label corners 9.2.6 or circular knitted fabrics to be 10.1.6 For specimens to be drip dried
as A, B, C and D in clockwise direction used in tubular form (e.g., underwear, (drying procedure C), stop wash cycle be-
starting with lower left corner. sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For fore the water begins to drain from the fi-
9.1.4 For circular knitted fabrics to be others, slit tube and test in open-width nal rinse cycle. Remove specimens soak-
used in tubular form (e.g., underwear, form. ing wet. For specimens to be tumble (A),
sweatshirts, etc.), test in tubular form. For line (B), or screen/flat (D) dried, allow
others, slit tube and test in open-width 10. Laundering Procedure washing to proceed through the final spin
form. cycle.
9.2 Marking Method 2 (see 15.8 and 10.1 Washing. 10.1.7 After each washing cycle, sepa-

Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 15.5, 15.10)

350 AATCC TM179-2019 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Standard Drying Conditions Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 15.5)
(A) Tumble Dry Cycle (Ai) Normal (Aii) Delicate (Aiii) Permanent Press
(Ai) Tumble Dry Normal Max. Exhaust Temp, °C (°F) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10) 60 ± 6 (140 ± 10) 68 ± 6 (155 ± 10)
(Aii Tumble Dry Delicate Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 ≤ 10 ≤ 10
(Aiii) Tumble Dry Permanent Press
(B) Line/Hang Dry
(C) Drip Dry
(D) Screen Dry/Dry Flat Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
Type 1 Type 3
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3%
rate tangled specimens and ballast pieces, Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun
taking care to minimize distortion. Pro- Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave
ceed to appropriate drying procedure. Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
10.2 Drying. Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
10.2.1 Select drying conditions from Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
Table II. (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
10.2.2 (A) Tumble dry. Place the
washed load (test specimens and ballast)
in the tumble dryer, and set the tempera-
ture control to generate the selected ex- surement, so as not to cause measurement Mark point A where this side of the right-
haust temperature (see Table III). Allow error. If the specimens are extremely angle marking device meets line AD.
the dryer to run until the load is fully dry. wrinkled and the consumer would AL- 11.3.3 Next place one side of the
Remove specimens immediately. WAYS expect to iron a garment made right-angle marking device along line
10.2.3 (B) Line/hang dry. Hang each from the fabric, test specimens may be AD so that the perpendicular side ex-
specimen on an appropriate hanger, hand ironed prior to measurement. tends to point C. Mark D where this
straightening and smoothing facings, 10.4.2 Use safe ironing temperatures side of the right-angle marking device
seams, etc. Specimens should generally appropriate to the fibers in the fabric being meets line AD
be oriented in the direction in which ironed. See TM133, Table I, Safe Ironing 11.3.4 Measure and record the length of
they are worn. Do not fold or stretch Temperature Guide (see 15.1). Exert only AA, DD, AB, and CD after laundering, to
specimens over the hanger. Allow speci- the minimum pressure necessary to re- the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth
mens to hang in still air at room tempera- move wrinkles. of an inch.
ture not greater than 26°C (78°F) until 10.4.3 Due to the extremely high 11.4 Marking Method 2, Calculation
dry. Do not blow air directly on speci- variability of hand ironing procedures Option 3 (see Fig. 3c).
mens as it may cause distortion. performed by individual operators (no 11.4.1 Place one side of a right-angle
10.2.4 (C) Drip dry. Hang dripping standard test method exists for hand iron- marking device along line YZ so that the
wet specimen on an appropriate hanger, ing procedures), the reproducibility of perpendicular side extends to point B.
straightening and smoothing facings, dimensional change results after hand Mark point A where this side of the right-
seams, etc. Specimens should generally ironing has been found to be extremely angle marking device meets line YZ.
be oriented in the direction in which they poor. Consequently, caution is advised 11.4.2 Measure and record the length
are worn. Do not fold or stretch speci- when comparing dimensional change re- of AA and AB after laundering, to the
mens over the hanger. Allow specimens sults after laundering and hand ironing, nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth of an
to hang in still air at room temperature reported by different operators. inch.
not greater than 26°C (78°F) until dry. 10.4.4 After ironing, condition test 11.5 Point A, for Calculation Options 2
Do not blow air directly on specimens as specimens as described in 8.1. and 3, plus D, for Calculation Option 2,
it may cause distortion. are marked after 3 (or an agreed upon
10.2.5 (D) Screen/flat dry. Spread 11. Measurement number of) washings. Points after subse-
each specimen on a horizontal screen quent washings should be indicated by
11.1 After conditioning, lay each test numbers or other symbols to differentiate
or perforated surface, removing wrinkles specimen without tension on the same
without distorting or stretching it. Allow measurements (e.g., A).
surface used for marking in section 9. Use
specimens to rest in still air at room tem- the same measuring device as for initial
perature not greater than 26°C (78°F) marking and measurement.
12. Calculation
until dry. Do not blow air directly on 11.1.1 Calculation Option 1 or 2 can be 12.1 Skew Change Calculation Option
specimens as it may cause distortion. used with Marking Method 1. Calculation 1 (see Fig. 3a).
10.2.6 For all drying methods, allow Option 3 should be used with Marking 12.1.1 Calculate percent change in
specimens to dry completely before Method 2. skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation
washing again. 11.2 Marking Method 1, Calculation 1,
10.2.7 Repeat the selected washing and Option 1 (see Fig. 3a).
drying procedure for a total of 3 complete 11.2.1 Measure and record the diagonal X = |100 × [2 (AC – BD)/(AC + BD)]|
cycles, or an agreed upon number of cy- length of AC and BD after laundering, to (Eq. 1)
cles. the nearest millimeter, or eighth or tenth where:
10.3 Conditioning. of an inch (see Fig. 3a). X = % change in skew
10.3.1 After final drying cycle is com- 11.3 Marking Method 1, Calculation 12.2 Skew Change Calculation Option
plete, condition test specimens as de- Option 2 (see Fig. 3b). 2 (see Fig. 3b).
scribed in section 8. 11.3.1 Extend line AD in each direction 12.2.1 Calculate percent change in
10.4 Ironing (optional). across the width of the specimen. skew to the nearest 0.1% using equation 2,
10.4.1 The wrinkles in most fabrics 11.3.2 Place one side of a right-angle
flatten sufficiently under pressure of a marking device along line AD so that the X = 100 × [(AA' + DD')/(AB + CD)]
measuring instrument at the time of mea- perpendicular side extends to point B. (Eq. 2)

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM179-2019 351
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
culations of Options 2 and 3; however, skew change of 3 different garments (jer-
when comparing data between laborato- sey leggings, jersey T-shirt, denim
C ries, the same option should be used for jeans), following this test method. Each
B calculations. lab used only 1 operator and repeated the
12.5 Average the results obtained from test 2 times, on separate days. Laundering
equation 1, 2 or 3, for all specimens in was performed in traditional top-loading
the sample. Note that results of equation washing machines with 1993 AATCC
1 are reported as absolute values; there Standard Reference Detergent (powder),
should be no negative values included in and tumble dryers. Precision of tests per-
the average. formed with other laundering conditions
D 12.5.1 If the test is used to establish the has not been determined.
A condition of the fabric across the width 14.1.1 Table V gives the within-lab
(a)
(see 7.1.4), calculate averages for each and between-lab precision values for this
area separately. study, using Marking Method 1 and Cal-
12.6 Interpretation of Skew Change. culation Option 1 on jersey T-shirt sam-
C 12.6.1 If the skew change for fabric or ples.
B garment specimens after 1 full launder- 14.1.2 Table VI gives the within-lab
ing cycle is within a specification previ- and between-lab precision values for this
ously agreed on, continue until an agreed study, using Marking Method 1 and Cal-
upon number of cycles have been com- culation Option 2 on jersey T-shirt sam-
pleted. ples.
90°
12.6.2 If the change in skew exceeds a
specification previously agreed on, termi- 14.1.3 Table VII gives the within-lab
90°
D D' nate the test. and between-lab precision values for this
study, using Marking Method 2 and Cal-
A A' culation Option 3 on jersey leggings and
(b) 13. Report denim jeans samples.
13.1 Report for each sample tested: 14.2 Bias. Skew resulting from home
13.1.1 A description or identification laundering can be defined only in terms
B of the sample. of a test method. There is no indepen-
13.1.2 Evaluation was performed using
AATCC TM179-2019.
13.1.3 Type of ballast used, i.e., Type 1
or Type 3. Table V—Precision Values for Marking
13.1.4 Number of laundering cycles Method 1, Calculation Option 1
(default is 3 cycles, see 10.2.7).
Within Between
13.1.5 Laundering conditions, includ- n Laboratory Laboratory
ing washing machine cycle, wash temper-
ature, drying procedure and tumble-dry- 1 0.8900 2.1820
ing temperature, if applicable. Alpha- 2 0.6303 1.5453
numeric designations may be used if they 3 0.5138 1.2597
are clearly understood by all parties. For
Note: Mean change in skew after laundering for all
example, 1-IV-A(ii) indicates normal interlab measurements of jersey T-shirt was 3.7%.
wash cycle at 49°C and Delicate tumble
90° Z dry cycle.
Y A' 13.1.6 If specimens were distorted or Table VI—Precision Values for Marking
A
wrinkled in their original state. Method 1, Calculation Option 2
(c) 13.1.7 If specimens were hand ironed.
13.1.8 Marking method used (Method Within Between
1 or 2) n Laboratory Laboratory
Fig. 3—Final (after laundering) markings 13.1.9 Calculation option used (Option 1 0.9531 2.4617
for measurement and skew Calculation 1, 2 or 3) 2 0.6750 1.7434
Option 1 (a), Calculation Option 2 (b), 13.1.10 Number of specimens tested 3 0.5503 1.4212
and Calculation Option 3 (c). (default is 3).
13.1.11 Average skew change, to the Note: Mean change in skew after laundering for all
nearest 0.1%, for the sample. interlab measurements of jersey T-shirt was 3.2%.
where: 13.1.12 Average skew change, to the
X = % change in skew nearest 0.1%, for each area evaluated Table VII—Precision Values for Marking
(e.g., left-side, center, right-side), if appli- Method 1, Calculation Option 3
12.3 Skew Change Calculation Option cable.
3 (see Fig. 3c). 13.1.13 Any modifications of the test Within Between
12.3.1 Calculate percent change in method, including alternate benchmark n Laboratory Laboratory
skew to nearest 0.1% using equation 3, distances.
1 0.3693 1.4140
X = 100 × (AA'/AB) (Eq. 3) 2 0.2615 1.0014
14. Precision and Bias 3 0.2132 0.8164
where:
X = % change in skew 14.1 Precision. Four different laborato-
Note: Grand mean of change in skew after laundering
ries participated in an interlaboratory for all interlab measurements was 1.4%. Mean change
12.4 The calculation of Option 1 is re- study to measure fabric skew change after in skew for jersey leggings was 1.3%. Mean change in
lated on a mathematical basis to the cal- home laundering. All 4 labs measured the skew for denim jeans was 1.6%.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

352 AATCC TM179-2019 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
dent method for determining the true Triangle Park, NC 27709, USA; +1.919.549. other parameters listed in this test method are
value. As a means of estimating this 8141; www.aatcc.org. An alternate load size standard conditions for testing purposes. As
property, the method has no known bias. was described in previous versions of this with most lab procedures, they represent, but
method (3.6-kg load, 83-L water level, 80 g may not exactly replicate, current consumer
AATCC 1993 Standard Reference Detergent), practices. Consumer practices vary over time
15. Notes but no machine is reported to meet the stan- and among households; lab practices must be
dard parameters for this load size. In addition, consistent to allow valid comparison of results.
15.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box skew change results obtained with the alternate If laundering equipment or conditions other
12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, load size may not be equal to those obtained than those specifically listed in this test
USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected]; with a standard load size. method are used, they must be described in de-
www.aatcc.org. 15.6 A digital imaging system may be used tail and noted as a modification of the standard
15.2 Available from ASTM International, as a measuring device in place of the pre- method. Alternate laundering conditions are
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA scribed manual measurement devices if it is outlined in AATCC LP1, AATCC LP2, and
19428, USA; +1.610.832.9500; www.astm.org. established that its accuracy is equivalent to ISO 6330.
15.3 Available from ISO, www.iso.org. the manual devices.
15.4 For potential equipment information 15.7 When using specimens for AATCC 16. History
pertaining to this test method, please visit TM135, extend corner markings to form
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at right angles. 16.1 Revised in 2019 to align standard laun-
www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possi- 15.8 Select only one marking method and dering parameters with those of other AATCC
bility of listing equipment and materials sold one calculation option for each test. Marking test methods and procedures, and to align for-
by its Corporate members, but AATCC does Method 2 may be more suitable for long, nar- mat with AATCC style.
not qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or row specimens (e.g., pant leg panels). 16.2 Revised (with title change) 2017. Edi-
certify that any of the listed equipment or 15.9 Marks of 460 mm (18 in.) are com- torially revised 2014. Revised 2012. Revised
materials meets the requirements in its test monly used on fabric specimens to give bet- 2010. Editorially revised 2009. Editorially re-
methods. ter measurement precision. If alternate size vised 2008. Editorially revised 2005. Revised
15.5 For model number(s) of washer(s) and specimens or benchmarks are used, skew 2004. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2001.
tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard change results may not be equal to those ob- Reaffirmed 1996. Revised 1995.
parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/test/washers tained with 250-mm (10-in.) marks. 16.3 Developed in 1994 by AATCC Com-
or contact AATCC, PO Box 12215, Research 15.10 The laundering temperatures and mittee RA42.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM179-2019 353
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM182-2021

Test Method for Relative Color Strength of Dyes in Solution

1. Purpose and Scope for information purposes only. The pre- direct and disperse. Many reactive dyes are
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- not easily measured using this procedure
1.1 This is a test method to determine
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- (see 5.4).
the color strength of a dye sample relative
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.2 Basic requirements for this method
to a reference dye by means of spectro-
safe and proper techniques in handling are that the dye solutions do not scatter
photometric transmittance measurements
materials in the test method. Manufactur- light and do obey the Lambert-Beer or
on solutions of each. It is a comparison of
ers MUST be consulted for specific de- Beer-Bouguer Laws as well as having
the color strength of the dyes in a chosen
tails such as material safety data sheets identical or similar absorption curves of
solvent which may or may not corre-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- the samples and the reference dyes in the
spond to strengths when applied to a tex-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules visible region of the spectrum (see 13.9).
tile substrate.
must also be consulted and followed. 5.3 Identical or similar absorption
1.2 To be valid as a measurement of
4.1 Good laboratory practices should curves are usually obtained if the tests are
the relative color strength of a dye for a
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all carried out for the purpose of dye produc-
particular textile end-use, additional tests
laboratory areas. tion control of batches/deliveries of the
must be performed to demonstrate that
4.2 All chemicals should be handled same dye. This method is not applicable
the relative strength in solution is equal to
with care. for the evaluation of dyes with distinctly
the relative strength when applied to the
4.3 Use chemical goggles or face different hues or strengths greater than
textile substrate (see 5.4).
shield, impervious gloves, and an imper- 20% or chemical compositions.
1.3 The test is often used by dye manu-
facturers and users because of its speed, vious apron during dispersing and mixing 5.4 The method may be useful in the
of acids, alkalis and organic solvents. prediction of relative dye strength in
repeatability and reproducibility.
Concentrated acids, alkalis and organic process applications; e.g., dyeing. It is
2. Principle solvents should be handled in a well ven- generally accepted that some reasonable
tilated hood. CAUTION: Always add correlation can be obtained between ap-
2.1 Solutions of the test dye and the acid to water. plication and solution measurements. Ex-
reference dye are prepared in known con- 4.4 Acetone, methyl alcohol and ethyl ceptions occur where there is a signifi-
centrations and their transmittance values alcohol are highly volatile liquids and cant difference in the relative amount of
are determined using a spectrophotome- should be stored in the laboratory only in colored but non-exhausting or non-fixing
ter. The relative color strength for the test small containers away from heat, open impurities between the specimen under
dye is then calculated using absorbance flames and sparks. These chemicals test and the reference dye; e.g., reactive
and concentration values. should not be used near an open flame. dyes. Exceptions may also occur for
4.5 Cellosolve (2-ethoxyethanol) is some reactive dyes which exhibit shade
3. Terminology differences between their hydrolyzed and
combustible and may be harmful or fatal
3.1 absorbance, n.—the logarithm to if ingested or inhaled. It is also a repro- unreacted forms (see additional caution
the base 10 of the reciprocal of trans- ductive hazard and should only be used for reactive dyes in 8.3.3).
mittance. when absolutely necessary. 5.5 As the relative color strength is de-
NOTE: Absorbance is proportional to 4.6 An eyewash/safety shower should termined by a comparison with a refer-
the mass of absorbing material in the path be located nearby and an organic vapor ence dye, the reference dye is assumed to
length of a spectrophotometer cell (syn: respirator and a self contained breathing remain constant. It is essential, therefore,
absorbance value). apparatus should be readily available for to ensure careful storage and control of
3.2 color strength, n.—a measure of emergency use. the reference dye. Many dyes are hygro-
the ability of a dye to impart color to 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this scopic and sensitive to oxidation. Protect
other materials. procedure must be controlled at or below the reference dye from exposure to light
NOTE: Color strength is evaluated by levels set by government authorities in firmly sealed containers that are imper-
light absorption in the visible region of [e.g., Occupational Safety and Health vious to moisture.
the spectrum (see 13.1). Administration’s (OSHA) permissible
3.3 relative color strength, n.—in exposure limits (PEL) as found in 29 6. Apparatus and Materials
spectrophotometric testing of dyes, the CFR 1910.1000; see web site:
percentage of the color strength of a www.osha.gov for latest version]. In ad- 6.1 Flasks, volumetric Class A, TC.
sample relative to that of a reference dye dition, the American Conference of In- 6.2 Pipettes, volumetric Class A, TD.
assigned a color strength of 100% (see dustrial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold 6.3 Analytical balance with accuracy
10.2). Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time of weighing to 0.0005 g.
3.4 transmittance, n.—of light, that weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short 6.4 Cells for spectrophotometers, 5 mm
fraction of the incident light of a given term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and or 10 mm path length as needed, ana-
wavelength which is not reflected or ab- ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended lytical grade or optical quality. May be
sorbed, but passes through a substance. as a general guide for air contaminant ex- cuvette or flow-through cell. (Note: the
NOTE: In this test, the transmittance of posure which should be met (see 14.1). use of a 5-mm path length requires that
the material is measured on a spectropho- the solution concentration be doubled to
tometer, and corrected for that of pure 5. Uses and Limitations achieve the equivalent absorbance.)
solvent for the same path length. 6.5 Spectrophotometer.
5.1 This method is not applicable to all
4. Safety Precautions dyestuffs; e.g., pigments, due to solubil- 7. Reagents
ity and/or other limitations. Dyes that are
NOTE: These safety precautions are commonly measured include acid, basic, 7.1 Sulfuric acid—H2SO4.

354 AATCC TM182-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
7.2 Acetic acid—CH3COOH. furic, a base such as sodium carbonate or 9.5.1 The difference in absorbance
7.3 Sodium hydroxide—NaOH. sodium hydroxide, or a buffering agent. between the test dye and reference dye
7.4 Sodium carbonate—Na2CO3. (However, sodium carbonate or sodium shall not exceed 20%, to minimize the
7.5 Buffering agents. hydroxide should not be used with reac- influence of variations in the spectro-
7.6 Solvents (see 13.3). tive dyes.) photometric response over a relatively
7.6.1 For water-soluble dyes: 8.3.4 To eliminate the influence of un- wide range of concentrations.
7.6.1.1 Water, demineralized. wanted metal ions use a sequestering 9.5.2 The transmittance, T, of the dye
7.6.2 For water-insoluble dyes: agent. solution is obtained differently with a
7.6.2.1 Methyl alcohol (CH3OH, meth- 8.3.5 To prevent agglomeration in wa- double-beam spectrophotometer com-
anol), anhydrous. ter use a surfactant; e.g., ethylene oxide pared to a single-beam spectrophotome-
7.6.2.2 Acetone (CH3COCH3). adducts to alkanols. ter, but yields the same result. With a
7.6.2.3 N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone. 8.3.6 Use a dispersing agent or an anti- double-beam instrument, simultaneous
7.6.2.4 Ethylene glycol monoethyl- oxidant, if appropriate. measurements may be made with a cell of
ether (2-ethoxyethanol, Cellosolve). 8.3.7 Volumetric equipment and sol- pure solvent placed in the reference
7.6.2.5 Mixtures of the above solvents vents should be at ambient temperature. beam, and the dye solution in the sample
as well as other solvents appropriate for 8.4 Gravimetric transfer(s) and dilu- beam. Single-beam instruments require
the test dye. tion(s) may be substituted for the volu- that the instrument first be standardized
metric ones mentioned in 8.1 through 8.3 with pure solvent. Then, the dye speci-
under the premise that 1 mL @STP = 1 g. mens are measured successively in the
8. Preparation of Dye Solutions same cell.
The premise applies to water dilution
8.1 Storage of dyes. only, as solvent dilution requires the addi- 9.5.3 Some narrow (0.5-2.0 nm) band-
8.1.1 Store the samples in tightly tional calculation: Dilution (g) = (Re- pass, analytical spectrophotometers used
sealed containers to avoid erroneous required) × (Specific Gravity of Solvent). for dye strength determination measure
sults arising from changes in moisture This eliminates the cost of Class A glass- both transmittance and absorbance, di-
levels. Condition powder samples in a ware and removes the restriction of rectly. In this case, it is not necessary for
controlled atmosphere for 4 h as described temperature dependency (although the the system or the user to calculate the ab-
in ASTM D49, Standard Test Methods of reference and sample must be at ambient sorbance separately.
Chemical Analysis of Red Lead. temperature prior to measurement in a
8.2 Stock solutions. cuvette or flow-cell. It also facilitates the
10. Calculations
8.2.1 Weigh an amount of not less than accurate transfer of odd quantities to ac-
0.5 g to avoid errors attributable to micro- count for differences in strength. Use a 10.1 Base the evaluation on Beer’s law,
inhomogeneities to the nearest 0.0005 g four-place balance (0.0001 g) for dye- using the following equation:
(see 13.4 and 13.8). weights and transfers and a three-place
8.2.2 Transfer the dye weighed quanti- balance for dilutions (0.001 g). A = log10 (1/Tλ) (Eq. 1)
tatively to a volumetric flask containing
approximately one-third of the total vol- 10.1.1 A is the absorbance at wave-
9. Procedure length of maximum absorbance (see
ume of solvent, then dissolve/disperse it.
In general, pre-dissolve/disperse the dye 9.1 When a dye specimen is measured 13.2).
in about 20 mL of the selected solvent. A for the first time, it is advisable to con- 10.1.2 Tλ is the transmittance (in deci-
mixture of solvents or an additive may be firm the validity of the relationship mal fraction form, where 100% = 1.0) at
needed. (Beer’s Law) under the conditions se- wavelength of maximum absorbance.
8.2.2.1 Water-soluble dyes may need lected (concentration, solvent) within a 10.2 Calculate the relative color
to be heated to effect dissolution. If range of concentrations (10 mg/L to 100 strength to the nearest 0.1% using the fol-
heated, cool the dissolved/dispersed mix- mg/L similar to a primary set to deter- lowing equation:
ture to room temperature (see 13.5). (Do mine dyeing characteristics).
Fs = 100 (A2C1/A1C2) (Eq. 2)
not heat in volumetric glassware; transfer 9.2 Determine the wavelength (λ) of
to a beaker before heating, then re-trans- maximum absorbance (minimum transmit- where:
fer to the volumetric flask.) tance. Fs is relative color strength in percent
8.2.3 Make up the volumetric flasks to 9.2.1 Quantitative measurements (anal- C is the dye concentration
the mark and homogenize the solution/ ogous to HPLC, MS, etc.) of the test and subscript 1 refers to the reference dye
dispersion by stirring or by turning the reference specimens should have the subscript 2 refers to the dye under test
flask end over end. same wavelength of maximum absor-
8.3 Test solutions. bance (λMAX). 10.2.1 Assuming C1 = C2, the follow-
8.3.1 Dilute the concentrated stock so- 9.2.2 Qualitative measures (analogous ing simplified equation is obtained:
lution as directed (see 13.6) to obtain to visual strength/appearance) should be
determined by using weighted sum color Fs = 100 (A2/A1) (Eq. 3)
maximum absorption (minimum trans-
mittance) within the range of 10- strength determination (see 13.1 and 13.2).
60% transmittance (see 13.5). (The same 9.3 Carry out the measurement as soon 11. Report
solvents used to make the concentrated as possible after preparation of the solu-
stock solution may not be the appropriate tion to exclude the influence of changes 11.1 Identification of test dye.
choice for dilution. For example, many in solution. 11.2 Dye mass.
disperse dyes are dispersed into water for 9.4 Adopt appropriate techniques with 11.3 Solvent used (if solvent system
the stock solution, and then pipetted into light sensitive solutions; e.g., using low is light-sensitive, note illumination con-
a solvent/water mixture for dilution.) actinic flasks, or working in dimly lit sur- ditions).
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

8.3.2 Some additives may be recom- roundings (see 13.7). 11.4 Dissolving conditions (e.g., tem-
mended to improve the stability and re- 9.5 Measure the transmittance of the perature, also include names and concen-
producibility. solution in cells (cuvette or flow-through trations of any additives used to improve
8.3.3 To adjust the pH of water soluble cell) of identical path length (usually 5 stability and reproducibility, per 8.4).
dyes use an acid such as acetic or sul- mm or 10 mm). 11.5 Dilution factor.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM182-2021 355
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
11.6 Concentration and temperature of best dissolved. mum transfer of 5 mL (Class A, TD) and a
measured solution. 12.1.6 One major source of deviation minimum dilution of 100 mL (Class A, TC).
11.7 Measuring instrument (e.g., type was the use of different spectrophotome- 13.7 In certain instances, the solution to be
and band width). ters. In several studies, no one single measured may be influenced adversely by the
light energy of the source in the measuring
11.8 Cell path length. wavelength of maximum absorbance instrument (e.g., heat-sensitive or photo-sensi-
11.9 Wavelength of analysis, also note (transmittance minimum) was used for tive products). If so, monochromatic illumina-
bandpass and reporting interval of spec- any of the dyes. Other possible sources of tion, shutter or flash light source should be
trophotometer. error often include differences in time af- used.
11.10 Relative color strength. ter initial dissolution; a dye's absorbance 13.8 When measuring liquid dye samples, it
11.11 Conditions under which dye was can increase over time after initial dilu- is essential that the sample be thoroughly
stored. tion until it reaches a maximum. Solution mixed before an aliquot is taken. If the sample
11.12 Identify test method and any temperature and cis-trans (and azo-hydra- is retained for future use, it must be sealed in a
modifications. zone) isomerism can lead to variability. It container protected from exposure to light and
impervious to moisture.
is possible and recommended that labora- 13.9 A simple method to determine qualita-
tories develop correction factors (correla- tively the presence of solid dye/dispersing
12. Precision and Bias
tion models) between instruments and agents in what may appear to be clear solu-
12.1 Precision. laboratories to reduce these errors. tions is to filter the dye solution through a sub-
12.1.1 An interlaboratory study by ten 12.1.7 Table I shows inter- and intra- micrometer filter using a simple syringe filter
laboratories was conducted in 1987. Ab- laboratory variability for the disperse as is often used in HPLC and determine the
sorbance was measured using aqueous dyes (worst case) studied. Some data absorbance before and after filtration.
visible transmittance spectroscopy. A points from the study failed the 1.5 IQR
round-robin test battery yielded the re- fit test and were not included in the data 14. References
sults of the test. Several different spectro- analysis.
photometers were used to determine vari- 12.2 Bias. 14.1 Available from Publications Office,
ance between instruments as well as 12.2.1 There is no independent referee ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati, OH 45240; tel: +1.
laboratories. Sample preparation varied analytical method for determining a true 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
as described by this test method for value of this property. This test method 14.2 General procedure for the determina-
readily soluble dyes and solvent/aqueous has no known bias. tion of relative dye strength by spectrophoto-
solution soluble dyes (disperse dyes). metric transmittance measurement (report of
These data are on file at the AATCC 13. Notes the ISCC): R. G. Kuehni, Textile Chemist and
Technical Center. Colorist, Vol. 4, 1972, p133.
12.1.2 Intra-Lab Variation: The maxi- 13.1 Color strength is traditionally a color- 14.3 Difficulties in preparing dye solutions
mum percent coefficient of variation istic concept, being based essentially on visual for accurate strength measurement: T. R.
(%C.V.) calculated as: assessment. Therefore, color strength deter- Commerford, Textile Chemist and Colorist,
mined instrumentally should not contradict vi- Vol. 6, 1974, p14.
%C.V. = s/mean × 100 for any given sual assessment. Such a contradiction would 14.4 Reproducibility of dye strength evalu-
lab was 5.20% for Disperse Blue 56. not be expected if the samples to be compared ation by spectrophotometric transmission
exhibit concentration-dependent differences in measurement (report of the ISCC): C. D.
12.1.3 Typical %C.V. for water-solu- absorption only; i.e., their absorption curves in Sweeny, Textile Chemist and Colorist, Vol. 8,
ble dyes are below 1%, provided they are the visible region are identical or show only 1976, p31.
sufficiently dissolved. Acid dyes used in small differences when the strength of the ab- 14.5 ISO proposed test method 105-Z10,
the test had typical %C.V. values of sorption curves is made equal. 94/341270.
13.2 If the absorption curves differ more 14.6 AATCC (Committee RR98) training
2.0%. Many of the labs in the study indi- video tape “Techniques for Solution Measure-
cated that their internal standards for day- markedly (hue or chroma differences), use
weighted sum color strength determination to ment Used in Dye Strength Determination,”
to-day and intra-lab variation is ± 0.5%. improve the correlation to visually assessed (1995) AATCC Committee RR98, Assessment
12.1.4 Inter-Lab Variation: The strength. of Dye Strength and Shade Test Methods.
maximum %C.V. for between-lab analysis 13.3 When selecting solvents the following 14.7 Possible Test Method for Determining
was 6.55% for Disperse Blue 56. aspects are important: Strength of Acid Dyes: B. L. McConnell, Tex-
Typical %C.V. for water-soluble dyes are 13.3.1 Solubility of dye. tile Chemist and Colorist, Vol 24, No. 2, Feb-
below 5%, provided they are sufficiently 13.3.2 Stability of solutions. ruary 1992, p23.
dissolved. 13.3.3 Reproducibility of test. 14.8 Can A Standard Test Be Developed
13.3.4 Applicability of result to other media For Measuring the Strength of Disperse
12.1.5 Spectroscopic measurement of Dyes?, M. D. Hurwitz, Textile Chemist and
disperse dyes in aqueous/solvent mix- or practical applications.
13.4 It is essential to ensure that uptake of Colorist, Vol 25, No. 9, September 1993, p71.
tures often yield worse precision than
moisture by hygroscopic dye samples do not
shown for water-soluble dyes, due largely lead to errors during weighing.
to variances in the solubilities of the dis- 15. History
13.5 It is essential to ensure that the solubil-
perse dyes. As solubility decreases, light ity limit is not exceeded during subsequent 15.1 Revised 2021 to clarify the wave-
scattering increases, which will lead to cooling. Solubility specifications are available length requirements, update terms and add
higher error levels. For this reason, a from the dye suppliers. History section to align with style guide.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

given dye is best characterized when it is 13.6 To avoid errors in dilution, use a mini- 15.2 Editorially revised in 2019; revised in
2017; editorially revised and reaffirmed in
2011; editorially revised 2010, reaffirmed in
2005; editorially revised and reaffirmed in
2000; reaffirmed in 1999.
Table I—Inter- and Intra-Laboratory Variability
15.3 Established by AATCC Committee
Disperse Dye Yellow 54 Red 60 Blue 56 RR98, Test Method for Relative Color
Strength of Dyes in Solution in 1998; under
Intra-Lab %C.V. Maximum 0.75% 1.27% 5.20% jurisdiction of AATCC Committee RA36.
Inter-Lab %C.V. Maximum 1.07% 1.42% 6.55% Technically equivalent to ISO 105-Z10.

356 AATCC TM182-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM183-2020e

Test Method for Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally

Weighted Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics
Foreword 3. Referenced Documents 5. Safety Precautions
AATCC TM183 may be used in con- 3.1 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice NOTE: These safety precautions are
junction with two other standards devel- for Conditioning and Testing Textiles for information purposes only. The pre-
oped by ASTM D13 Textiles to meet (see 15.2). cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
voluntary requirements for labeling UV 3.2 ASTM D6544 Standard Practice dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
protective clothing or products in the for Preparation of Textiles Prior to Ultra- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
United States. Appendix B of this stan- violet (UV) Transmission Testing (see safe and proper techniques in handling
dard is a summary of the methodology 15.2). materials in this test method. Users
for textile UV testing and labeling. 3.3 ASTM D6603, Standard Specifica- MUST consult manufacturers on specific
tion for Labeling of UV-Protective Tex- details such as safety data sheets and
1. Purpose and Scope tiles (see 15.2). other recommendations. Consult and fol-
3.4 ASTM E275, Practice for Describ- low all applicable OSHA standards and
1.1 This standard test method is used to ing and Measuring Performance of Ultra- rules.
determine the ultraviolet radiation trans- violet, Visible and Near-Infrared Spectro- 5.1 Under any circumstances, do not
mitted or blocked by textile fabrics in- photometers (see 15.2). look directly at the equipment and mate-
tended to be used for UV protection. 3.5 CIE 106/4-1993, A reference ac- rials that may increase the light source in-
1.2 This method provides procedures tion spectrum for ultraviolet induced tensity, such as mirrors.
for measuring this fabric property with erythema in human skin. (see 15.3). 5.2 Follow good laboratory practices.
specimens in either the dry or wet states. 3.6 Information and Standards for UV Wear prescribed safety glasses in all lab-
1.3 Preparation and labeling of prod- Protective Textiles; AATCC & ASTM In- oratory areas.
ucts with a UV protection (UPF) value ternational, 2017. (see 15.1).
are described in ASTM D6544 and 3.7 Sayre, R. M., et al., “Spectral 6. Uses and Limitations
ASTM D6603. Refer to Appendix B for a Comparison of Solar Simulators and
summary of methodology. Sunlight,” Photodermatol Photoimmu- 6.1 UV-protective textiles may be worn
nol. Photomed., 7, 159-165 (1990). in such a manner that stretching of the
2. Principle fabric over the shoulders, back, and arms
of users will occur. This method can be
2.1 The transmission of ultraviolet radi- 4. Terminology
used to determine the UPF of fabrics in a
ation (UVR) through a specimen is mea- 4.1 erythema, n.—abnormal redness stretched state; however, there is no stan-
sured on a spectrophotometer or spectro- of the skin (sunburn) due to capillary dardized technique known to replicate for
radiometer at known wavelength intervals. congestion (as in inflammation). stretching of specimens during testing.
2.1.1 The ultraviolet protection factor 4.2 percent UV blocking, n.—100 mi-
(UPF) is computed as the ratio of the nus the UV transmittance. 7. Apparatus and Materials (see 15.4)
erythemally weighted ultraviolet radia- 4.3 percent UV transmittance, n.—
tion (UVR) irradiance at the detector with that fraction of the incident ultraviolet ra- 7.1 A spectrophotometer or spectrorad-
no specimen to the erythemally weighted diation that is not reflected or absorbed, iometer equipped with an integrating
UVR irradiance at the detector with a but passes through a substance. sphere (see Appendix A).
specimen present. A higher UPF indi- 4.4 ultraviolet protection factor 7.2 Filter, Schott Glass UG11 (see
cates more UV protection. (UPF), n.—the ratio of the average effec- 15.5).
2.1.2 The erythemally weighted UVR tive ultraviolet radiation (UVR) irradi- 7.3 Clear plastic food wrap for use
irradiance at the detector with no speci- ance transmitted and calculated through with wet samples (polyvinylidene chlo-
men present is equal to the summation air to the average effective UVR irradi- ride or polyvinylchloride film).
between wavelength intervals of the mea- ance transmitted and calculated through 7.4 AATCC Blotting Paper (see 15.1).
sured spectral irradiance times the rela- fabric. 7.5 AATCC Light Transmission Verifi-
tive spectral effectiveness for the relevant 4.5 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant cation Fabric (see 15.1) or in-house fab-
erythemal action spectra times the UVR energy for which the wavelengths of the ric with known predictable and repeat-
weighting function of the appropriate so- monochromatic components are smaller able light transmission behavior and a
lar radiation spectrum times the appropri- than those for visible radiation and more UPF between 15 and 50.
ate wavelength interval. than about 100 nm.
2.1.3 The erythemally weighted UVR NOTE: The limits of the spectral range 8. Instrument Verification and Calibration
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

irradiance at the detector with a specimen of ultraviolet radiation are not well de-
present is equal to the summation be- fined and may vary according to the user. 8.1 Calibration. Calibrate the spectro-
tween wavelength intervals of the mea- Committee E-2.1.2 of the International photometer or spectroradiometer accord-
sured spectral irradiance times the rela- Commission on Illumination (CIE) dis- ing to manufacturer instructions. The use
tive spectral effectiveness for the relevant tinguishes in the spectral range between of physical standards is recommended for
erythemal action spectrum times the 400 and 100 nm: validating the measurement of spectral
spectral transmittance for the specimen transmittance.
times the wavelength interval. UVA 315-400 nm 8.1.1 When running a wet sample
2.1.4 The percent blocking of UVA and UVB 280-315 nm place the plastic wrap over the port and
UVB radiation is also calculated. UVR 280-400 nm repeat calibration.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM183-2020e 357
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.2 Wavelength scale. Calibrate the 11.2 Wet Evaluation using Equation 1:
wavelength scale of the spectrophotome- 11.2.1 Weigh the test specimen. Thor-
ter or spectroradiometer using the spec- oughly wet out the specimen in distilled 400 nm

tral emission lines of an electrical dis-

charge in mercury vapor. The wavelength
water by placing it flat in the bottom of a
beaker and then pour distilled water into
 E λ × S λ × Δλ
280 nm
calibration of a spectrophotometer can be the beaker until the specimen is covered. UPF = ------------------------------------------------------
400 nm
(1)
performed using the absorption spectra of Allow the specimen to remain submerged
a holmium oxide glass filter. Reference for 30 minutes. Press and move the speci-  Eλ × Sλ × Tλ × Δ λ
wavelengths for both mercury arc emis- men from time to time to ensure a good 280 nm
sion and holmium oxide absorption are and uniform penetration. Prepare only
provided in ASTM E275. one specimen at a time.
8.2.1 Transmittance scale. Set the 11.2.2 Bring the wet pick-up to 140 ± where:
transmittance scale to a 100% value by 5% by squeezing the wet specimen be- Eλ = relative erythemal spectral effec-
operating the instrument without a sam- tween blotting paper through a hand tiveness (see Table I)
ple in the optical path; therefore, refer- wringer or similar convenient means Sλ = solar spectral irradiance (see
enced to air. The 0% value can be subse- (such as squeezing between two glass Table II)
quently verified by fully obstructing the rods). If the fabric has low moisture ab- Tλ = spectral transmittance (measured)
sample beam path with an opaque mate- sorption, repeat the soaking and wringing
rial. Validate the linearity of the transmit- steps. Note, some samples may not be Δλ = measured wavelength interval
tance scale by means of either calibrated capable of achieving the specified wet (nm)
neutral density filters or calibrated perfo- pick-up such as tightly woven synthetic NOTE: Although integration is indi-
rated screens supplied by the instrument fabrics. cated from 280 nm to the stated wave-
manufacturer or standardizing laboratories. Other wet pickup values may be used lengths, little or no contribution will oc-
8.3 Verification checks on the opera- as agreed upon between parties. cur in the 280-290 nm region.
tion of the test and the apparatus should 11.2.3 Use plastic wrap over viewing
be made and kept in a log. The use of a port to protect instrument from water. 12.2 Calculate the mean UPF for all
verification fabric is recommended at 11.2.4 Continue as directed for dry three (3) rotations at each measurement
least once a month unless no testing is to evaluation. Avoid evaporative reduction location. If more than one location was
be performed that month. of the moisture content below the speci- measured on a specimen, or if multiple
fied level before the actual UV transmis- specimens were measured in the same
9. Specimens sion measurements are made. condition (dry, wet, prepared according
to ASTM D6544, etc.), calculate the

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
9.1 Test a minimum of two (2) speci- mean UPF for all comparable measure-
12. Calculations ments (see 15.6).
mens from each sample, one each for the
wet and the dry testing. Cut each speci- 12.1 Calculate the Ultraviolet Protec- 12.3 Calculate the A-range ultraviolet
men at least 50 × 50 mm (2.0 × 2.0 in.) or tion Factor (UPF) for each measurement (UVA) transmittance using Equation 2:
50 mm (2.0 in.) in diameter. Avoid dis-
torting the specimen during preparation
and handling.
9.1.1 Should the fabric have areas of Table I—Relative Erythemal Effectiveness Function (Eλ)a
different colors or structure, test each
color or structure if its size is sufficient to nm response nm response nm response
cover the measuring port.
9.2 See Appendix A5 for specimens 280 1.00e+00 320 8.55e-03 360 4.84e-04
exhibiting fluorescence. 282 1.00e+00 322 5.55e-03 362 4.52e-04
284 1.00e+00 324 3.60e-03 364 4.22e-04
10. Conditioning 286 1.00e+00 326 2.33e-03 366 3.94e-04
288 1.00e+00 328 1.51e-03 368 3.67e-04
10.1 For dry specimens, bring to mois-
290 1.00e+00 330 1.36e-03 370 3.43e-04
ture equilibrium in a standard atmosphere
according to ASTM D1776. Use condi- 292 1.00e+00 332 1.27e-03 372 3.20e-04
tions listed for Textiles, General in Table 294 1.00e+00 334 1.19e-03 374 2.99e-04
I of the standard. 296 1.00e+00 336 1.11e-03 376 2.79e-04
298 1.00e+00 338 1.04e-03 378 2.60e-04
11. Procedure 300 6.49e-01 340 9.66e-04 380 2.43e-04
302 4.21e-01 342 9.02e-04 382 2.26e-04
11.1 Dry Evaluation. 304 2.73e-01 344 8.41e-04 384 2.11e-04
11.1.1 Place the specimen flush against 306 1.77e-01 346 7.85e-04 386 1.97e-04
the sample transmission port opening in
308 1.15e-01 348 7.33e-04 388 1.84e-04
the sphere.
11.1.2 Make one UV transmission 310 7.45e-02 350 6.84e-04 390 1.72e-04
measurement with the specimen oriented 312 4.83e-02 352 6.38e-04 392 1.60e-04
in one direction, a second measurement 314 3.13e-02 354 5.96e-04 394 1.50e-04
at 0.79 rad (45°) to the first and a third at 316 2.03e-02 356 5.56e-04 396 1.40e-04
0.79 rad (45°) to the second. Record the 318 1.32e-02 358 5.19e-04 398 1.30e-04
individual measurements. 400 1.22e-04
11.1.3 On multicolored specimens, de-
termine the area of highest UV transmis- Note: The intervals in Table I are 2 nm. For 5 nm UV transmission data, use the interpolated data between those
sion and make the three measurements at ending in a “4” and a “6.”
0.79-rad (45°) rotation intervals in that area. a
Data from CIE Publication 106/4.

358 AATCC TM183-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Solar Spectral Irradiance of Noonday, July 3, Sunlight, Albuquerque, NM (Sλ)a 15.6).
13.4.1 The mean UPF for each condi-
nm W/cm2/nm nm W/cm2/nm nm W/cm2/nm tion, color and/or structure tested.
280 4.12e-11 320 3.14e-05 360 5.64e-05 13.4.2 The mean UVA transmittance,
282 2.37e-11 322 3.32e-05 362 6.00e-05 T(UVA).
284 3.14e-11 324 3.61e-05 364 6.48e-05 13.4.3 The mean UVB transmittance,
286 4.06e-11 326 4.45e-05 366 7.18e-05 T(UVB).
288 6.47e-11 328 5.01e-05 368 7.62e-05 13.4.4 The percent blocking UVA.
290 3.09e-10 330 5.32e-05 370 7.66e-05 13.4.5 The percent blocking UVB.
292 2.85e-09 332 5.33e-05 372 7.50e-05
294 2.92e-08 334 5.23e-05 374 6.61e-05
14. Precision and Bias
296 1.28e-07 336 5.04e-05 376 6.66e-05
298 3.37e-07 338 4.99e-05 378 7.46e-05 14.1 Precision. In 2001, a precision
300 8.64e-07 340 5.39e-05 380 7.54e-05 and bias study was conducted with six
302 2.36e-06 342 5.59e-05 382 6.42e-05 different materials and one laboratory
304 4.35e-06 344 5.35e-05 384 5.85e-05 (see Table III).
306 7.19e-06 346 5.34e-05 386 6.26e-05 14.2 Bias. Transmittance or blocking
308 9.68e-06 348 5.37e-05 388 6.72e-05 of erythemally weighted ultraviolet radia-
310 1.34e-05 350 5.59e-05 390 7.57e-05 tion through fabrics can be defined only
312 1.75e-05 352 5.89e-05 392 7.16e-05
in terms of a test method. There is no in-
dependent method for determining the
314 2.13e-05 354 6.13e-05 394 6.55e-05
true value. As a means of estimating this
316 2.43e-05 356 6.06e-05 396 6.81e-05 property, the method has no known bias.
318 2.79e-05 358 5.38e-05 398 8.01e-05
400 1.01e-04
15. Notes
Note: The intervals in Table II are 2 nm. For 5 nm UV transmission data, use the interpolated data between those
ending in a “4” and a “6.” 15.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
a
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
Data from Sayre, R. M., et al., “Spectral Comparison of Solar Simulators and Sunlight.” USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
www.aatcc.org.
15.2 Available from ASTM International,
400 nm 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
19428; +1.610.832.9500; www.astm.org.
 T λ × Δλ 13. Report 15.3 Available from International Com-
315 nm 13.1 Describe or identify the sample mission on Illumination, CIE Central Bureau,
T ( UV-A ) AV = -------------------------------
400 nm
(2) Babenbergerstraße 9/9A, 1010 Vienna, AUS-
tested.
TRIA; +43 1 714 31 87; [email protected]; www.
 Δλ 13.2 Report that the sample was tested
using AATCC TM183-2020.
cie.co.at.
315 nm 15.4 For potential equipment information
13.3 Report the testing conditions: pertaining to this test method, please visit the
13.3.1 Illumination and viewing geom- online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.aatcc.
12.3.1 Calculate the mean T(UVA) for etry (0/T or T/0) org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility of
all comparable measurements (see 15.6). 13.3.2 Illumination (monochromatic or listing equipment and materials sold by its
12.4 Calculate the B-range ultraviolet polychromatic). Corporate members, but AATCC does not
(UV–B) transmittance using Equation 3: 13.3.3 Whether specimens were tested qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
before or after exposure described in tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
315 nm
ASTM D6544. als meets the requirements in its test methods.
15.5 Available from Schott; www.schott.com.
 T λ × Δλ 13.3.4 Whether specimens were tested
wet or dry. 15.6 Some software programs calculate the
T ( UV-B ) AV = 280 nm
(3) average transmittance of measurements before
------------------------------
315 nm
- 13.3.5 For wet specimens, the actual calculating UPF or UVA/UVB transmittance.
percent wet pick-up if other than 140 ±
 Δλ 5%.
The mean UPF, T(UVA), or T(UVB) result is
the same, but UPF of individual measure-
280 nm 13.4 Report the test results: ments are required to determine a label value
13.4.1 UPF for each measurement (see according to ASTM D6603.
12.4.1 Calculate the mean T(UVB) for
all comparable measurements (see 15.6).
12.5 Calculate the percent blocking for Table III—Precision and Bias Study Data
UVA and for UVB using Equation 4 and
Equation 5: Average UPF Standard Deviation Sample Variance 95% Confidence
140% 140% 140% 140%
= 100%-T(UVA) (4) Fabric Dry WPU Dry WPU Dry WPU Dry WPU
= 100%-T(UVB) (5) D 41.655 28.105 0.700 0.884 0.490 0.781 0.580 0.707
G 40.615 81.718 9.246 17.959 85.492 322.533 7.398 14.370
where: J 23.733 42.603 1.394 5.978 1.943 35.733 1.115 4.783
T(UVA) or T(UVB) is the mean of N 7.797 3.723 0.367 0.238 0.134 0.056 0.294 0.190
comparable measurements, expressed O 57.947 15.779 4.281 3.021 18.325 9.125 3.425 2.471
as a percentage. R 22.320 10.686 2.492 0.547 6.209 0.299 1.994 0.438

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM183-2020e 359
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
16. History A2.3 Sample substitution errors. Inte- cially high values of transmittance appear
grating spheres can experience “sample at the emission wavelengths of the fluo-
16.1 Editorially revised in 2022 to remove
the UPF compilation as it has been discon-
substitution” error due to contributions of rescing agent. The effects of fluorescence
tinued. the reflectance of the specimen on the in- are, therefore, eliminated at most UVR
16.2 Revised in 2020 to add references to ternal Illumination of the sphere. The er- wavelengths. The use of an illuminating
verification fabric and UPF compilation, and ror can be eliminated in either geometry light source that conforms to the spectral
to align format with AATCC style guide. Edi- by use of a separate reference beam that distribution requirements for solar simu-
torially revised 2016. Reaffirmed 2014. Re- traverses its own port opening in the lators will most accurately include the
vised 2010. Revised 2004. Reaffirmed 2000. sphere. The reference beam impinges on contribution of sample fluorescence to
Reaffirmed 1999. either a portion of the sphere wall or a the long wavelength UVA measurement.
16.3 Developed in 1998 by AATCC Com- reference material mounted at a diametri- However, because the fluorescent com-
mittee RA106. cally opposed port opening. ponent does not contribute to the UPF,
A3. Spectral requirements. The spec- the spectral distribution of the source is
Appendix A trophotometer or spectroradiometer shall irrelevant, so long as it provides suffi-
have a spectral bandpass of 5 nm or less cient energy to cover the spectral range of
Spectrophotometer or over the spectral range of 280 nm (or interest to acceptable signal to noise ra-
Spectroradiometer Specifications less) to 400 nm (or more). The measured tios in the spectral data.
wavelength interval over this spectral
A1. The integrating sphere surface is
range should not be greater than 5 nm.
internally coated or constructed using a Appendix B
material that is both diffuse and highly A4. Stray radiation. The contribution
Summary of Methodology
reflecting in the ultraviolet region. The of stray radiation within the instrument,
total surface area consumed by all port including that due to sample fluores- Manufacturers and producers of UV
openings required shall not exceed 3% of cence, shall produce an error of less than protective textile materials and/or products
the total surface area of the integrating 0.005 in the value of spectral transmit- must be aware of the proper existing stan-
sphere. tance being measured. dards and test methods to meet published
A2. Illumination and viewing geome- A5. Sample fluorescence. The contri- voluntary standards for labeling UV pro-
tries. bution of sample fluorescence on spectral tective clothing for the United States.
A2.1 Directional illumination/hemi- transmittance measurements on certain B1. There are three (3) published vol-
spherical collection (0/T). In this geome- dyes and whitening agents present in untary standards: ASTM D6544, AATCC
try, the specimen is illuminated with a fabrics that may fluoresce could result in- TM183, and ASTM D6603.
unidirectional beam whose axis is not artificially high values of spectral trans- B2. To summarize at a high level, these
greater than 0.14 rad (8°) from the sur- mittance. standards are used in conjunction with
face normal of the sample. Any ray of A5.1 Monochromatic illumination. In one another to develop the proper UPF
this beam shall not exceed 0.09 rad (5°) spectrophotometers where the monochro- values to appropriately label products as
from the beam axis. The cross-sectional mator precedes the specimen within the “UV Protective.”
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

area of the illuminating beam shall be at optical path, the artificially high values of B2.1 Evaluate UV transmission of
least 10 times the dimension of the larg- transmittance appear at the excitation original specimen (“unprepared”) or
est hole in the test material. The total flux wavelengths of the fluorescing agent. (“laundered once”) specimen using
transmitted by the specimen is collected This includes nearly all wavelengths in AATCC TM183. The value reported is
by the integrating sphere. the UVR spectral region. The error due to the mean TM183 UPF value.
A2.2 Hemispherical illumination/di- the fluorescence can be removed by plac- B2.2 Refer to ASTM D6544 to deter-
rectional viewing (T/0). In this geometry ing a UV transmitting, visible blocking mine the exposure conditions depending
the specimen is illuminated by an inter- filter after the sample. A Schott Glass on the product end use.
nally illuminated integrating sphere. The UG11 filter has been found to be satisfac- B2.3 After subjecting the specimens to
specimen is viewed unidirectionally with tory. However, the decrease in transmis- the specified exposure conditions of
an axis not greater than 0.14 rad (8°) sion of the filter with increasing wave- ASTM D6544, evaluate UV transmission
from the surface normal of the sample. length may reduce the usefulness of the using AATCC TM183. The specimen is
Any ray of this beam shall not exceed long wavelength UVA measurement. referred to as the “prepared-for-testing”
0.09 rad (5°) from the beam axis. A5.2 Polychromatic illumination. In specimen.
The cross-sectional area of the viewing spectrophotometers and spectroradiome- B2.4 Refer to ASTM D6603 for addi-
beam shall be at least 10 times the dimen- ters where the illumination is polychro- tional calculations. Classifications for la-
sion of the largest hole in the test mate- matic and the monochromator follows the beling UPF value are also outlined in
rial. specimen in the optical path, the artifi- ASTM D6603.

360 AATCC TM183-2020e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM184-1998e3(2020)

Test Method for Dusting Behavior of Dyes

1. Purpose and Scope cific value like density. (see 6.2.1) in the dust generating appara-
5.4 Solid dyes are sold in different tus (see 6.2) and close it to give an air-
1.1 This test method provides a means physical forms (powdered, granulated, tight fit. If the gravimetric option of as-
to assess the dusting behavior of dyes. etc.). The particle-size distribution of sessment is used, condition and weigh the
commercial products varies considerably. filter before insertion into the filter
2. Principle The mean particle diameter may be less holder.
than 50 µm or as much as several milli- 7.2 Using the balance (see 6.1), care-
2.1 Dust is generated from a dye sam- meters. The range of particle-size distri- fully weigh 10.0 ± 0.1 g of the dye and
ple by means of a dust-generating device, bution of a solid dye may also be narrow place it in the hopper at the top of the ap-
extracted from the dust-bearing air by or wide. paratus. Start the timer (see 6.2.5) to open
vacuum and conveyed to a detection 5.5 The particle-size distribution of the slide valve with a sudden action, al-
point, where the amount of dust gener-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
dyestuff dust is largely independent of the lowing the dye to drop down through the
ated is estimated visually or determined physical form of the dyestuff. Two typi- tube into the dust chamber below.
quantitatively by a gravimetric or photo- cal particle-size distributions for dyestuff
metric option. 7.3 Five seconds after the slide has
dust are shown in Fig. 1. opened, apply a vacuum to extract the
dust from the chamber for collection on
3. Terminology the filter (see 6.2.1) under the following
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 13.1)
3.1 dust, n.—fine particles of solid conditions:
material dispersed in a gas. 6.1 Balance, accurate to ± 0.1 g, for 7.3.1 Air flow rate: 15 L/min.
weighing the dye. 7.3.2 Extraction time: 120 s (starting 5 s
6.2 Dust-generating device, with filter after dye has dropped).
4. Safety Precautions holder and connecting joints, and incor- 7.3.3 Height of fall: 815 ± 5 mm.
NOTE: These safety precautions are porating the following additional compo- 7.4 Using tweezers (see 6.6), carefully
for information purposes only. The pre- nents (see Figs. 2 and 3, and 13.2). remove the dust-laden filter from the
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 6.2.1 Filter, white, diameter 50 ± 2 holder and evaluate it by one of the op-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- mm, capable of trapping the dust quanti- tions given in Section 8.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use tatively (pore size < 5 µm), for gravimet- 7.5 Clean the equipment thoroughly
safe and proper techniques in handling ric and photometric options made of cel- (see 6.5) after each test. If the equipment
materials in this test method. Manufac- lulose acetate nitrate. For the visual is wet-cleaned, take particular care that it
turers MUST be consulted for specific option, suitable glass fiber filters can be is dried thoroughly.
details such as material safety data sheets used.
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.2.2 Vacuum pump with a suction ca-
tions. All OSHA standards and rules pacity of at least 20 L/min. 8. Assessment of Filter
must also be consulted and followed. 6.2.3 Regulator for adjusting the air
flow rate. 8.1 Visual option. Compare the dust-
4.1 Follow good laboratory practices.
6.2.4 Flowmeter capable of monitoring laden filter visually with the Gray Scale
Wear safety glasses in all laboratory
the air flow rate between 10-20 L/min. for Staining (see 6.3.1) rate the filter us-
areas.
6.2.5 Timer for opening the slide valve ing Table I of AATCC EP2, Gray Scale
4.2 An eyewash safety shower should for Staining. Half-grades may be used.
be located nearby and a self-contained to start suction, and for timing the period
breathing apparatus should be readily of suction.
available for emergency use. 6.3 Dust assessment apparatus.
6.3.1 For visual option, Gray Scale for Table I—Dust Assessment Rating Scale
5. Uses and Limitations Staining (see 13.3 and 13.4).
Grade Description
6.3.2 For gravimetric option, analytical
5.1 Dyestuff dust is formed during balance. 5 No dust
handling operations such as dispensing, 6.3.3 For photometric option, photom- 4 Slightly dusty
transferring, sprinkling, etc. eter. 3 Moderately dusty
5.2 The dustiness of dyestuffs is an im- 6.4 Analytical balance, accurate to ± 2 Dusty
portant characteristic when considering 0.01 mg, for weighing the dust collected 1 Very dusty
aspects of hygiene, health and safety in on the filter (see 6.2.1) (gravimetric as-
the dyestuff consuming industry. It is im- sessment option), and/or photometer, for
portant, therefore, that a reliable and re- extinction measurement of the dust col- 8.2 Gravimetric option. Weigh the dust-
producible method exists to measure this lected and dissolved in a suitable solvent laden filter on the analytical balance (see
property. (photometric assessment option). 6.4) to the nearest 0.01 mg. Since with
5.3 Although other methods of dust 6.5 Cleaning device; e.g., brush or vac- low-dusting products the mass of dust is
measurements exist, the method given in uum cleaner, for cleaning the apparatus. very small (< 1 mg), considerable errors
this test procedure is both more represen- 6.6 Tweezers for removing filter paper are to be expected with the gravimetric
tative of and comparable with actual from the holder after dust generation. option. In such cases preference should be
practice when handling dyestuffs. With given to photometric measurement.
respect to a comparison of dyestuffs or 7. Procedure 8.3 Photometric option. For photomet-
the reliability limits, it should be under- ric measurement of the amount of dust,
stood that the resulting value is not a spe- 7.1 Place the filter holder with the filter dissolve the dyestuff by shaking well the

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM184-1998e3(2020) 361
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
9.2 Visual option. Express the results
of the visual option as the Gray Scale rat-
ing obtained in 8.1.
9.2.1 A quantitative determination of
the amount of dust produced by a dye is
not possible by the visual option. The
main reasons for this are different particle
size distributions, particle sizes and
shades of the dust in each case.
9.2.2 Visual assessment is subjective
and depends on factors such as the expe-
rience of the examiner, the hue of the
layer of dust and the nature of the filter
surface (smooth or rough). Variations of
up to half a grading unit are inherent in
this system. Empirically, the total error
under reproducibility conditions (same
apparatus and laboratory) does not ex-
ceed this value.
9.3 Gravimetric and Photometric op-
tions.
9.3.1 Record the results obtained from
8.2 and 8.3 in milligrams of dyestuff dust
collected.
9.3.2 In both of the quantitative options
(gravimetric and photometric), the deter-
mination is based on the amount of dust
trapped on the filter. Because the amount

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
of dust is measured in milligrams, in the
gravimetric option, variations in the con-
ditioning of the filter and electrostatic in-
fluences can lead to substantial errors. If
the amount of dust is determined by pho-
tometry, care must be taken that the
transmission is measured on clear solu-
tions. According to the experience of var-
ious laboratories, a reproducibility of
about 10% (coefficient of variation) can
be attained under favorable conditions.
9.4 Scatter of results. In some cases,
scattering of the results may occur. The
main causes of this are:
9.4.1 Factors specific to the apparatus:
9.4.1.1 The air flow rate is incorrectly
adjusted.
9.4.1.2 The air flow rate through the
apparatus is not constant, or the vacuum
is incorrectly applied.
9.4.1.3 The timing control is imprecise.
9.4.2 External factors:
9.4.2.1 Humidity.
9.4.2.2 Electrostatic charges inside the
Fig. 1—Typical graphical representation of the amount of dust (by volume) vertical tube and the dust chamber.
as a function of the dust-particle diameter. 9.4.2.3 Inhomogeneous distribution of
the dust within the sample.

dust-laden filter in a suitable solvent at eters. For this reason, the determination 10. Report
room temperature. When a clear solution of the amount of dust yields results which 10.1 The report should include the fol-
has formed, measure the transmission are valid for the specified test conditions. lowing information:
with a photometer and read the corre- This means that a direct comparison of 10.1.1 A full description of the sample
sponding amount of dust off a previously either the visual or the quantitative results tested.
prepared calibration graph (see 12.1). of dust behavior with results from other 10.1.2 The mass of the test specimen.
test methods is not possible. However, 10.1.3 The assessment option used and
9. Evaluation the relative order of results of a set of test the result obtained, expressed as in 9.2
specimens from one test method is likely and 9.3.
9.1 The generation and detection of to be comparable with that from other test 10.1.4 Details of any deviation from
dust depend on a great number of param- methods. the procedure.

362 AATCC TM184-1998e3(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
H Total fall height1 815 mm ± 5 mm
h Dust chamber height 195 mm ± 5 mm
D Dust chamber diameter Ø 210 mm Ø ± 5 mm
d Drop tube diameter Ø 47 mm Ø ± 1 mm
1
Total fall height is measured from the top side of the slide valve plate to the inside face of
the dust chamber.

Fig. 2—Apparatus for dust determination.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM184-1998e3(2020)

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
363
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
11.2.2 Critical Differences. A difference
between two averages, under the appro-
priate precision category, is statistically
significant at the 95% confidence level, if
the difference is equal to or greater than
the table value shown (see Table II).
Most comparisons are likely to be un-
der the single dye category. However, if
comparisons are made across dyes, use
the multiple dye columns which include
the effect of the interaction component of
variance.
11.3 Bias. This test method has no
known bias. There is no referee method
for determining a true value for the dust-
ing behavior of dyes by which bias may
be established.
12. References
12.1 AATCC TM182, Relative Color
Strength of Dyes in Solution (see 13.3).

Fig. 3—Filter holder. 13. Notes

13.1 For potential equipment information
pertaining to this test method, please visit
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
11. Precision and Bias test plan, this is included as an interim of listing equipment and materials sold by its
precision statement. Corporate members, but AATCC does not
11.1 Summary. The precision is based
on data for the gravimetric option con- 11.2.1 Components of variance are qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
given as standard deviations, with units tify that any of the listed equipment or
tained in Annex A of ISO 105-Z05:1996, materials meets the requirements in its test
Determination of the dusting behaviour of mg/filter, and as variances, with units
of (mg/filter)2, in the following table: methods.
of dyes. Four laboratories participated in 13.2 Instead of a filter and filter holder,
the study, testing three dyes at two time other dust-detection devices may be fitted to
periods at 10 determinations each period. the apparatus, such as an impactor or an opti-
Three laboratories were judged to be at a Components of Std. cal particle counter.
similar performance level. Testing at the Variance Deviation Variance 13.3 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
two time periods showed no effect. All of 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
Between-Laboratory 0.000 0.000 +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
the data from the three laboratories were
included in the analysis, using analysis of Laboratory X Dye 0.187 0.035 [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
Interaction 13.4 It is also possible to carry out a visual
variance. assessment of colorless solid materials. How-
11.2 Precision. Because of the limited Within-Laboratory 0.276 0.076 ever, special care has to be exercised in such
cases. Black filters may be helpful, but require
separate preliminary trials. It is preferable to
use the gravimetric or photometric option.
Table II 14. History
Single Dye Comparisons Multiple Dye Comparisons 14.1 Reaffirmed in 2020. Relocated History
Within- Between- Within- Between- to the section 14.
N Laboratory Laboratory Laboratory Laboratory 14.2 Reaffirmed 1999, 2000, 2005, 2010,
2014; editorially revised 2008, 2009, 2019.
5 0.34 0.34 0.62 0.62 Technically equivalent to ISO 105-Z05.
10 0.24 0.24 0.57 0.57 14.3 Developed in 1998 by AATCC Com-
15 0.20 0.20 0.56 0.56 mittee RA87.

364 AATCC TM184-1998e3(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Method for Chelating Agent Content in

Hydrogen Peroxide Bleach Baths: Copper PAN Indicator
1. Foreword vating metal ions by formation of a water 8. Reagents
soluble complex. SYN. sequestering
1.1 While several test methods exist agent. 8.1 Use ACS reagent grade quality
for determining chelation value of chelat- chemicals. All chemicals should be han-
ing agents, this method includes an addi- 5.2 copper chelation value (CuCV), dled with care. Many of the chemicals
tional calculation for percent chelating n.—the milligrams of copper sulfate pen- used in this procedure are corrosive or a
agent in the bleach bath. tahydrate chelated by one gram of a strong irritant.
chelating agent or product containing a 8.1.1 Acetic acid, glacial (CH3COOH).
chelating agent. 8.1.2 Copper sulfate pentahydrate
2. Purpose and Scope
(CuSO4 · 5H2O).
2.1 This test method measures the 6. Safety Precautions 8.1.3 Methanol (CH3OH). Methanol is
chelating agent content in a hydrogen a flammable liquid and should be stored
peroxide bleach solution. 6.1 The safety precautions specified in in the laboratory only in small containers
2.2 The method is designed to permit the method/procedure are ancillary to the away from heat, open flame and sparks.
routine or periodic titration of the perox- testing procedures and are not intended to 8.1.4 PAN, 1-(2-pyridylazo)-2-naph-
ide saturator section of a plant prepara- be all inclusive. thol (C15H11ON3).
tion range, or other prepared peroxide 6.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- 8.1.5 Sodium acetate trihydrate
bleach solutions, to determine the con- erence applicable safety data sheets, use (NaC2H3O2 · 3H2O).
centration of chelating agent present. safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- 8.1.6 Sodium hydroxide, pellets
2.3 The method is restricted to chelat- propriate personal protective equipment (NaOH).
ing agents based on ethylenediaminetet- in handling materials in this standard. 8.1.7 Sulfuric acid, 98% (H2SO4).
raacetic acid (EDTA), N-hydroxyethyl- 6.3 Users MUST consult manufactur-
ethylenediaminetriacetic acid (HEDTA), ers for specific details such as equipment 9. Samples
and diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid operating instructions and other recom-
(DTPA). This includes any proprietary mendations. Consult and follow all appli- 9.1 Test two samples of the chelating
products (referred to herein as “product”) cable health and safety regulations (e.g., agent or product and two samples of the
containing possible multiple ingredients, OSHA standards and rules). bleach bath.
one or more of which may be chelating
agents. 10. Preparation of Reagents
7. Uses and Limitations
10.1 Reagent A (12.500 g/L copper
3. Principle 7.1 Results may be affected by any of sulfate). Dissolve 12.500 g ± 0.002 g of
3.1 The percent chelating agent or the following: copper sulfate pentahydrate in distilled
product in the hydrogen peroxide bleach 7.1.1 Pre-chelation of iron or copper water and dilute to 1 L in a volumetric
bath is determined in two steps: first, a ions contained in the bleach solution will flask.
direct titration of the chelating agent or reduce the apparent, calculated concen- 10.2 Reagent B (2.500 g/L copper sul-
product using a known concentration of tration of chelating agent originally fate). Transfer 200 mL of Reagent A to a
copper sulfate in the presence of an indi- present in the bath. 1 L volumetric flask and dilute to volume
cator (PAN, 1-(2-pyridylazo)-2-naph- 7.1.2 Oxidation of uncombined chelat- with distilled water. Retain remainder of
thol), and second, a similar titration of the ing agent by hydrogen peroxide will re- Reagent A.
bleach solution containing the chelating duce the apparent concentration in the 10.3 PAN indicator. Dissolve 0.025 ±
agent using a more dilute concentration bleach bath. 0.001 g of PAN in 50.0 mL of methanol.
of the copper sulfate as the titrant. 7.1.3 Cyanide ions, ammonia, and Store in a stoppered bottle in a refrigera-
3.2 Results are reported as percent most amines will form molecular com- tor. Prepare fresh weekly.
chelating agent. A higher value indicates pounds with copper ions without affect- 10.4 Sodium acetate buffer solution. In
more chelating agent or product in the ing the PAN indicator, resulting in false preparing, dispensing and handling gla-
bath. positive results. cial acetic acid, use chemical goggles, or
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

face shield, impervious gloves and an im-

7.2 The percent chelating agent in the pervious apron. Concentrated acids
4. Referenced Documents bleach bath will not be affected by should be handled only in an adequately
changes in the active ingredient content ventilated hood. CAUTION: Always add
NOTE: Use current versions of all
of the chelating agent or product. acid to water. Dissolve 34.0 ± 0.1 g of so-
publications unless otherwise specified.
4.1 AATCC TM168, Test Method for 7.2.1 AATCC TM168 should be con- dium acetate trihydrate in 500 ± 1 mL of
Chelation Value of Polyaminopoly- ducted on each new lot of the chelating distilled water and add 15.0 ± 0.1 mL of
carboxylic Acids and Their Salts: Copper agent or product to determine if the active glacial acetic acid. Mix well and store in
PAN (see 15.1). ingredient content has changed. a closed container.
7.2.2 The copper chelation value 10.5 Sodium hydroxide (20% by vol-
5. Terminology (CuCV) determined in this method is a ume). In preparing, dispensing and han-
direct indication of the active ingredient dling sodium hydroxide, use chemical
5.1 chelating agent, n,—in textile content of the chelating agent or product goggles, or face shield, impervious
chemistry, a chemical capable of deacti- and can be monitored for this purpose. gloves and an impervious apron. Dis-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM185-2021 365
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
solve 200 ± 1 g of sodium hydroxide in CuCV = 12.5 (V)/W (Eq. 1) Table I—Components of Variance
800 mL of distilled water with stirring.
Cool, transfer to a 1 L volumetric flask where: Chelation % Chelating
and adjust to volume with distilled water. CuCV = Copper chelation value Component Value Agent
V = volume of Reagent A used,
10.6 Sulfuric acid (20% by volume). In Laboratory V(L) 2.61 0.000111
mL
preparing, dispensing and handling sulfu- Interaction V(SL) 0.76 0.000157
W = weight specimen, g
ric acid (98%), use chemical goggles, or Within V 0.81 0.000030
face shield, impervious gloves and an im- 12.2 Calculate the mean copper chela-
pervious apron. Concentrated acids tion value of two samples.
should be handled only in an adequately 12.3 Calculate the chelating agent con-
ventilated hood. CAUTION: Always add tent in the bleach bath to the nearest Table II—Chelating Agent or
acid to water. Slowly add 200 ± 1 g of 0.01% using Eq. 2: Product Critical Differences
sulfuric acid to 500 mL of distilled water. (95% Confidence)
Cool, transfer to a 1 L volumetric flask CA = 2.5(100)(V2)/(W2)(S) (Eq. 2)
Det. in Avg Within Between
and adjust to volume with distilled water. where: (N) Laboratory Laboratory
CA = chelating agent content, %
(Single Sample Comparisons)
11. Procedure V2 = volume Reagent B used, mL
W2 = weight of specimen, g 1 2.49 5.13
11.1 Chelation value of chelating agent S = average CuCV (from 12.2) 2 1.76 4.81
or product. 3 1.44 4.71
11.1.1 Weigh 0.9-1.1 g of the chelating 12.4 Calculate the average percent
(Multiple Sample Comparisons)
agent or product to nearest 0.01 g. Dilute chelating agent content in the bleach
to 75 mL with distilled water. bath. 1 2.49 5.67
11.1.2 Add 25 mL of sodium acetate 2 1.76 5.39
3 1.44 5.29
buffer solution and adjust the pH to 4.5- 13. Report
5.5 with glacial acetic acid (to decrease
pH) or 20% sodium hydroxide (to in- 13.1 Describe or identify the samples/
crease pH) as required. products tested. Table III—Bleach Bath Critical Differences
11.1.3 Add 1 mL of PAN indicator and 13.2 Report that the sample was tested (95% Confidence)
titrate to a permanent purple end point using AATCC TM185-2021.
with Reagent A. Record the volume used 13.3 Report the test results: Det. in Avg Within Between
to the nearest 0.01 mL and use this vol- 13.4.1 Report the average chelating (N) Laboratory Laboratory
ume in Eq. 1 agent value. (Single Bath Comparisons)
11.1.4 A 12.5 g/L solution of copper 13.4.2 Report the average percent
sulfate (Reagent A) is used to titrate the chelating agent content in the bleach 1 0.015 0.033
chelating agent product, whereas a 2.5 g/ bath. 2 0.011 0.031
L solution of copper sulfate (Reagent B) 13.5 Describe any modification(s) of 3 0.009 0.031
is used for greater accuracy to titrate the the published standard. (Multiple Bath Comparisons)
more dilute chelating agent contained in 1 0.015 0.048
the peroxide bleach solution. 14. Precision and Bias 2 0.011 0.047
11.2 Chelating agent in bleach bath. 3 0.009 0.046
11.2 1 Weigh 90-110 g of the hydrogen 14.1 Precision.
peroxide bleach solution to the nearest 14.1.1 In 1990, an interlaboratory
0.01 g. If the specimen is taken from the study was completed which included
saturator, ensure that it is free of debris seven laboratories, one operator in each, be defined in terms of a test method.
and foam. running two determinations per sample There is no independent, referee method
on three samples in Step 11.1 of the pro- for determining the true values. The
11.2.2 Adjust the pH to 7.0-9.0 with
cedure, and running two determinations method has no known bias.
20% sulfuric acid.
per bath on three baths for Step 11.2 of
11.2.3 Add 35 mL sodium acetate the procedure. No prior assessment was
buffer solution. Adjust the pH to 4.5-5.5 made of the relative level of the partici- 15. Notes
with glacial acetic acid or 20% sodium pating laboratories in performance of the
hydroxide if necessary. 15.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
test method. Results from one lab were 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
11.2.4 Add 1 mL of PAN indicator and not included in the analysis. USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
titrate to a permanent purple end point 14.1.2 Analysis of the data sets yielded www.aatcc.org.
with Reagent B. Record the volume used components of variance and critical dif-
to nearest 0.01 mL and use this volume in ferences as displayed in Tables I, II and 16. History
Eq. 2. III. Differences between two averages of
N determinations, for the appropriate pre- 16.1 Revised in 2021 to clarify and align
with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
12. Calculations cision parameter, should reach or exceed 16.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
the table value to be statistically signifi- 2016, 2011. Editorially revised 2010. Reaf-
12.1 Calculate the copper chelation cant at the 95% confidence level. firmed 2006, 2000, 1999.
value of the chelating agent or product to 14.2 Bias. 16.3 Developed in 1998 by AATCC Com-
two decimal places using Eq. 1: 14.2.1 The values for CuCV can only mittee RR90. Maintained by RA99.

366 AATCC TM185-2021 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Test Method for Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure

1. Purpose and Scope fined and may vary according to the user. main power light on the machine front
Committee E-2.1.2 of the CIE distin- panel goes out.
1.1 This test method provides a proce- guishes in the spectral range between 400
dure for the exposure of textile materials and 100 nm:
of all kinds, including coated fabrics and 5. Uses and Limitations
products made thereof, in a laboratory ar- UV-A 315-400 nm
tificial weathering exposure apparatus UV-B 280-315 nm 5.1 The use of this procedure is in-
employing fluorescent UV lamps as a UV-R 280-400 nm tended to simulate the deterioration
light source and using condensing humid- 3.10 UV-A Type Fluorescent UV caused by the UV energy in sunlight and
ity and/or water spray for wetting. lamp, n.—a fluorescent UV lamp where water. Exposures are not intended to sim-
radiant emission below 300 nm is less ulate the deterioration caused by local-
than 2% of its total light output. ized weather phenomena, such as atmo-
2. Principle 3.11 UV-B Type Fluorescent UV spheric pollution, biological attack and
lamp, n.—a fluorescent UV lamp where salt water exposure.
2.1 Specimens are exposed to a fluo-
radiant emission below 300 nm is more 5.2 Cautions. Variation in results may
rescent UV light source and to periodic
than 10% of its total light output. be expected when operating conditions
wetting under controlled conditions. Re-
3.12 weather, n.—climatic conditions are varied within the accepted limits of
sistance to degradation is rated in terms
at a given geographic location, including this procedure. Therefore, no reference
of a comparison standard and the expo-
such factors as sunlight, rain, humidity shall be made to results from the use of
sure criteria, percent loss in strength or
and temperature. this procedure unless accompanied by a
percent residual strength (breaking or
3.13 weather resistance, n.—ability of report detailing the specific operating
bursting as appropriate) and/or color
a material to resist degradation of its prop- conditions in conformance with the sec-
change of the material when evaluated
erties when exposed to climatic conditions. tion on Report.
under standard textile conditions.
5.3 Results obtained from this proce-
dure can be used to compare the relative
3. Terminology 4. Safety Precautions durability of materials subjected to the
NOTE: These safety precautions are specific test cycle used. Comparison of
3.1 breaking strength, n.—the maxi- results from specimens exposed in differ-
mum force applied to a specimen in a ten- for information purposes only. The pre-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- ent types of apparatus should not be made
sile test carried to rupture. unless correlation has been established
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
3.2 bursting strength, n.—the force or among devices for the material to be
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use
pressure required to rupture a textile by tested. Variations in results may be ex-
safe and proper techniques in handling
distending it with a force, applied at right pected when operating conditions vary
materials in this test method. Manufac-
angles to the plane of the fabric, under within the limits of this procedure. Be-
turers MUST be consulted for specific
specified conditions. cause of the variability in results obtained
details such as material safety data sheets
3.3 fluorescent UV lamp, n.—a lamp and other manufacturer’s recommenda- using this practice and the variability in
in which radiation at 254 nm from a low- tions. All OSHA standards and rules results from exterior exposures, use of a
pressure mercury arc is transformed to must also be consulted and followed. single “acceleration factor” that relates
longer wavelength UV by a phosphor. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should hours of an accelerated exposure to a spe-
3.4 irradiance, n.—radiant power per be followed. Wear safety glasses in all cific period of outdoor exposure is not
unit area as a function of wavelength ex- laboratory areas. recommended. Because of possible varia-
pressed as watts per square meter, W/m2. 4.2 Do not operate the test equipment tions in results, no reference should be
3.5 radiant energy, n.—energy travel- until the manufacturer’s operating in- made to results obtained from tests con-
ing through space in the form of photons structions have been read and under- ducted in the apparatus using this proce-
or electromagnetic waves of various stood. It is the responsibility of whoever dure unless accompanied by the informa-
lengths. operates the test equipment to conform to tion required in the section on Report.
3.6 spectral energy distribution, n.— the manufacturer’s directions for safe op- 5.4 There are a number of factors that
the variation of energy due to the source eration. may decrease the degree of correlation be-
over the wavelength span of the emitted 4.3 The test equipment emits ultravio- tween accelerated tests using laboratory
radiation. let radiation. Do not look directly at the light sources and actual use exposures.
3.7 standard atmosphere for testing light source. During normal operation, 5.4.1 Differences in the spectral dis-
textiles, n.—air maintained at 21 ± 2°C (70 care must be taken to shield operators tribution between the laboratory light
± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% relative humidity. from ultraviolet radiation, either by clos- source and sunlight.
3.8 standard atmosphere for storing ing the chamber door, using specimen 5.4.2 Shorter than normal wavelength
textiles, n.—laboratory conditions main- holders that prevent light from escaping, exposures are often used to obtain faster
tained as required in ASTM D1776. or some other effective method. failure rates in laboratory accelerated ex-
3.9 ultraviolet radiation, n.—radiant 4.4 Before servicing the light sources, posure tests. For outdoor exposures, the
energy for which the wavelengths of the allow 30 min for cool-down after the cut-on for short wavelength UV radiation
monochromatic components are smaller lamp operation has been terminated. is generally considered to be 300 nm. Ex-
than those for visible radiation and more 4.5 When servicing the test equipment, posures to UV radiation of wavelengths
than about 100 nm. shut off both the “off” switch on the front less than 300 nm, may produce degrada-
NOTE: The limits of the spectral range panel and the main power disconnect tion reactions, which do not occur when
of ultraviolet radiation are not well de- switch. When equipped, ensure that the the material is used outdoors. If a labora-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM186-2022 367
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tory light source used in an accelerated with one-sided limits as directed in h UV at an irradiance of 0.72 W/m2 @
test contains UV radiation of wave- ASTM D2905, Standard Practice for 340 nm at 70°C (158°F) followed by 4 h
lengths shorter than that found in the ac- Statements on Number of Specimens for condensation at 50°C (122°F). UV irradi-
tual use condition, the mechanism of deg- Textiles. ance may be monitored and maintained
radation and stability ranking of materials 7.2 Specimen Dimensions. Certain ma- by the manual method or by the feed-
can be dramatically different in the accel- terials may exhibit a dimensional change back-loop method as described in SAE
erated test. as a result of exposure. The test equip- J2020.
5.5 It may not be necessary to simulate ment manufacturer, physical test appara- 8.3 The use of these cycles does not
daylight over the entire spectrum, if radi- tus and number of replicate specimens re- imply, expressly or otherwise, an acceler-
ation in a specific region is known to pro- quired will affect the needed specimen ated weathering test, nor is this method
duce the type of degradation of interest in dimension. The test procedures which restricted to the use of these cycles. The
the materials being tested and does not al- will be used to assess the change in prop- degree of correlation to any actual out-
ter stability ranking of materials. Labora- erties should be reviewed to ensure that door weathering exposure must be deter-
tory light sources, which have a very specimen size is appropriate for perform- mined by quantitative analysis.
strong emission in a narrow band relative ing the subsequent procedures. 8.4 The test conditions in this method
to the rest of the ultraviolet or visible Cut strips of fabric at least 102 mm × are subject to acceptable test apparatus
spectrum, however, may cause a particu- 152 mm with the longer dimension paral- operational fluctuation of ± 0.02 W/m2 @
lar reaction to be favored relative to oth- lel to the warp of machine direction, un- 340 mm for irradiance and ± 2°C for
ers which may be very important. This less otherwise specified, for the follow- temperature. In addition, a transition time
type of light source also may not produce ing tests: of approximately one hour between test
changes caused in exposures to daylight. 7.2.1 Bursting Strength (Ball Burst). conditions is acceptable (see ASTM G151-
Exposures to light sources, which only 7.2.2 Breaking Strength (Grab Ten- 19, Annex A.3).
produce ultraviolet radiation may not sile).
produce color fade caused by visible radi- 7.2.3 Color Change.
ation and may cause polymer yellowing 9. Standards of Comparison
7.2.4 When required to prevent ravel-
that is more pronounced than that pro- ing, the specimens may be edged using a 9.1 Standards for comparisons can be
duced in exposures to daylight. flexible epoxy resin or similar material. made of any suitable textile material
7.2.5 Label each specimen for identifi- where a history of strength degradation or
6. Apparatus (See 17.1, 17.2 and 17.4) cation using material resistant to the envi- color change rates are known depending
ronment encountered during the test. upon individual test needs. They must be
6.1 Test chamber (see 17.4). exposed simultaneously with the test
6.2 UV-A type fluorescent UV lamp
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

8. Test Cycle Determination specimen to be investigated. The intent of

(see 17.8). these standards is to demonstrate unifor-
6.3 Moisture system. 8.1 The test cycle is best determined by mity between separate machine and test
6.3.1 Condensation. The moisture sys- the influencing factors of the end use, in runs. When test data of the exposed stan-
tem may be used to generate either con- particular, the climatic conditions. Not all dards differ by more than 10% from the
densation or water spray or both (see materials are affected equally by the known data, the test machine operating
17.9). same environment. Results obtained by conditions must be thoroughly reviewed
6.3.2 Water spray. The test chamber the use of any one test cycle may not be and any malfunctions or defective parts
may be equipped with a means to intro- representative of those of any other test corrected. The test is then repeated. If the
duce intermittent water spray onto the cycles or any outdoor weathering test. data still differ by more than 10% from
test specimens under specified condi- Any acceleration factor derived for one the known data and there is no evidence
tions. The spray shall be uniformly dis- geographic location does not necessarily of machine malfunction, then the test
tributed over the samples. The spray sys- apply to any other geographic location. standard should be questioned and re-
tem shall be made from corrosion However, certain test cycles are sug- evaluated. Test data obtained with ques-
resistant materials that do not contami- gested to group similar climates with re- tionable standards must be treated with
nate the water employed. spect to the test cycle. caution and resolution provided with
6.4 Black panel thermometer (see 17.10 8.2 The nature of the test material con- quantitative analysis.
and 17.11). tributes to the selection of the appropriate
6.5 Specimen holders (see 17.12). test cycle with respect to UV exposure, 10. Procedure
6.6 Test chamber location (see 17.13). wetting, wet time and temperature. The
following test cycles options have been 10.1 Maintain and calibrate the appara-
7. Test Samples used for textile materials. tus in accordance with the manufacturer’s
8.2.1 Option 1, General Applications: recommendations.
7.1 Number of Specimens (see 17.3). 8 h UV at an irradiance of 0.77 W/m2 @ 10.2 Before beginning the exposure
Replicate specimens of the material to be 340 nm at 60°C (140°F) followed by 4 h test, bring all specimens, control and test,
tested and a comparable number of the condensation at 50°C (122°F). This op- to moisture equilibrium in the atmo-
standard for comparison should be used tion is used for general applications such sphere for testing textiles in accordance
as required to ensure accuracy. It is rec- as outdoor furniture fabrics, tent material, with ASTM D1776, Standard Practice
ommended that at least three replicates of etc. for Conditioning and Testing Textiles.
each material evaluated be exposed in 8.2.2 Option 2, Thermal Shock Appli- Equilibrium is considered to have been
each test to allow for statistical evalua- cations: 8 h UV at an irradiance of 0.77 reached when the increase in mass of the
tion of results. W/m2 @ 340 nm at 60°C (140°F); fol- specimen in successive weightings made
Expose a sufficient number of speci- lowed by 0.25 h water spray; followed by at intervals of not less than 2 h does not
mens so that the expected test result is not 3.75 h condensation at 50°C (122°F). exceed 0.2% of the mass of the specimen.
more than 5% of the average above or be- This option has been used for architec- Perform any necessary tests or evalua-
low the true average of the lot at the 95% tural and other applications where ther- tions necessary to establish a base line for
probability level. Determine the number mal shock may be an issue. comparing the unexposed specimens to
of specimens using standard deviation 8.2.3 Option 3, Automotive Exterior: 8 the exposed specimens.

368 AATCC TM186-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
10.3 Specimen Mounting. Mount the change in either the test specimen or an
specimens in the frames which are sup- agreed upon standard sample.
plied with the cabinet with the test sur-
faces facing the lamp. When the test 12. Conditioning
specimens do not completely fill the
racks, the empty spaces must be filled 12.1 If the test and control samples are
with blank panels to maintain the test wet upon removal from the tester, dry
conditions within the chamber. them at ambient laboratory conditions or at
10.3.1 To provide rigidity, flexible a temperature not exceeding 71°C (160°F).
specimens may be attached to a backing 12.2 Condition the test and control
panel made of aluminum or other noncor- samples in the controlled atmosphere for
rosive heat conductive material. testing textiles. Bring all specimens to
10.3.2 Holes in specimens and any moisture equilibrium. Equilibrium is con-
openings larger than 1 mm around irregu-
Fig. 1—Typical mounting for sidered to have been reached when the in-
larly shaped specimens shall be sealed to
flexible fabric specimens. crease in mass of the specimen in succes-
prevent loss of water vapor. Porous spec- sive weighings made at intervals of not
imens shall be backed with a vapor bar- less than 2 h does not exceed 0.2% of the
rier such as aluminum or plastic. mass of the specimen. In general practice,
apparatus continuously within the limits the industry approaches equilibrium from
10.3.3 Fabrics. Flexible fabric speci- specified above. Use test conditions spec- the “As Received” side.
mens are mounted by simply wrapping ified in 8.2 or agreed to by mutual con- 12.3 For each test to be made on the
them around an aluminum blank and sent or as required by a product quality material and control, exposed and unex-
clamping them into place with the spring specification. posed, prepare test specimens by marking
ring clip. The specimens should present a 10.5 Operate continuously, repeating and raveling or cutting the central portion
smooth face to the inside of the chamber the cycle, except for servicing the instru- of each exposed specimen to the dimen-
(see Fig. 1). ment and inspection of specimens. In- sions specified in the respective test pro-
10.3.4 Yarns. Yarns should be wound spect specimens daily during the middle cedure. Marking and raveling or cutting
on frames to a length of 150 mm mini- of a condensation cycle to make sure all of the test specimens is preferred after the
mum. Only that portion of the yarns di- specimens are uniformly wetted. exposure but may be done before expo-
rectly facing the radiant energy is tested 10.6 To minimize any effects from sure. Control specimens not exposed are
for breaking (tensile) strength. Single temperature or UV light variation, it is similarly prepared and are wet-out and
strand or multiple strand testing may be recommended that specimens be reposi- allowed to dry without tension before
performed. When multiple strand testing tioned. Reposition specimens horizon- testing.
is to be performed, the yarns are wound tally by (1) moving the two extreme right
on the frame closely packed to 25.4 mm hand specimen holders to the far left of
13. Evaluation of Results
width. The control specimens must con- the exposure area and (2) sliding the re-
tain the same number of strands as the maining specimen holders to the right as 13.1 Changes in exposed test speci-
specimen subjected to exposure. After shown in Fig. 2. For short duration tests mens shall be evaluated or rated by ap-
the exposure has been completed and be- (less than one week), reposition speci- plicable AATCC, ASTM or ISO test
fore the yarns are unwound for testing, mens at least once a day. For longer dura- methods.
those yarns facing the light source are tion tests, reposition specimens at least 13.2 Physical Properties
bound together by the use of 20 mm five times during the duration of the test. 13.2.1 Ball Bursting Strength of Fab-
masking or other suitable type tape to rics. Determine the ball bursting strength
maintain the closely packed arrange- of fabrics as directed in ASTM D3787,
11. Periods of Exposure
ments on the exposure frame. Test Method for Bursting Strength of
10.3.5 In the case of woven, knitted 11.1 Use one of the following methods Knitted Goods: Constant Rate of
and nonwoven fabrics ensure that the side to determine the duration of the exposure: Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test.
directly exposed to the radiant source is 11.1.1 A specified number of total 13.2.2 Grab Tensile Test. Determine
the one normally used as the face. hours. the grab tensile strength as directed in
10.4 Program the device to achieve the 11.1.2 The number of total hours of ex- ASTM D5034, Test Method for Breaking
required test conditions and operate the posure required to produce an amount of Strength and elongation of Textile Fab-
rics (Grab Test).
13.3 Color Change.
13.3.1 Evaluate the color change as di-
rected in AATCC TM16.3, Test Method
for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc.

14. Report
14.1 Report the following information
on exposure conditions:
14.1.1 Manufacturer and model of flu-
orescent UV/condensation apparatus.
14.1.2 The manufacturer’s designation
for the fluorescent UV lamp.
14.1.3 Exposure cycle, for example, 4 h
UV/60°C (140°F), 4 h CON/50°C (122°F).
14.1.4 Total exposure time.
14.1.5 Total UV light exposure time.
Fig. 2—Specimen rotation. 14.1.6 Any deviation from the expo-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM186-2022 369
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
sure test method. Table III—Ball Burst after Exposure sults should not exceed the value shown
14.2 Report the following information in 95 of the 100 comparisons.
on the test specimen: Exposed Ball Burst 15.1.4 Analysis of variance or t-tests
14.2.1 The type of fiber(s) of which the Sample Standard may be used to compare averages. See
material is composed, which side of the Mean Variance Deviation any standard statistical text for more in-
fabric was exposed (in the event that the 83 81 9 formation.
fibers differ on the face and back of the 95% Level 15.2 Bias.
fabric), the fabric weight in g/m2 and the 15.2.1 There is no referee test method
nature of the fabric finish, if known. Values in Critical for determining definitive values to es-
14.3 Report the following information Average Standard Error Difference tablish bias in this test method. The test
on the evaluation: 1 9.0 25.2 method has no known bias.
14.3.1 The evaluation method, rating and 2 6.4 17.8
relative data for each property evaluated. 3 5.2 14.6 16. Referenced Documents
14.3.2 The standard used for compara- 4 4.5 12.6
tive evaluation, if any. 5 4.0 11.3 16.1 The following AATCC documents
14.3.3 Data. Average the data for the 10 2.8 08.0 are referenced:
various replicates, or handle statistically Control Ball Burst 16.1.1 AATCC EP6, Evaluation Pro-
as appropriate, and record a significant cedure for Instrumental Color Measure-
Sample Standard
value of breaking or bursting strength re- Mean Variance Deviation
ment (see 17.5).
tention and/or color change after expo- 16.1.2 AATCC TM16.3, Test Method
87 55 7.4 for Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc
sure in relation to original strength or
color as applicable. Report must contain (see 17.5).
as a minimum: 16.2 The following ASTM documents
(a) Arithmetic mean or average, (c) Standard deviation or coefficient of are referenced:
(b) The number of tests, variation. 16.2.1 ASTM D123, Standard Termi-
Statement of a mean without the number nology Relating to Textiles (see 17.6).
of tests and precision is essentially useless. 16.2.2 ASTM D3787, Test Method for
Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods:
Table I—ΔE*ab 15. Precision and Bias Constant Rate of Traverse (CRT) Ball
Burst Test (see 17.6).
Sample Standard 15.1 Precision.
Mean Variance Deviation 16.2.3 ASTM D5034, Test Method for
15.1.1 Laboratory Study. In early Breaking Strength and Elongation of
9.7 0.2 0.4 1999, a small study was done in a single Textile Fabrics (Grab Test) (see 17.6).
95% Level laboratory to get an estimate of intra-lab- 16.2.4 ASTM G151, Standard Prac-
oratory precision. One fabric (greige, tice for Exposing Non-Metallic Materials
Values in Critical
Average Standard Error Difference #400 style cotton print cloth) was ex- in Accelerated Test Devices that use Lab-
posed under conditions of this test oratory Light Sources (see 17.6).
1 0.4 1.2 method and values determined for ΔE*ab, 16.2.5 ASTM G154, Standard Prac-
2 0.3 0.8 grab tensile after exposure, and ball burst tice for Operating Fluorescent Light Ap-
3 0.2 0.7 after exposure.
4 0.2 0.6
paratus for UV Exposure of Non-Metallic
5 0.2 0.5 15.1.2 Intra-Laboratory Precision. Materials (see 17.6).
6 0.2 0.5 Components of variance and within-labo- 16.3 The following SAE document is
7 0.2 0.5 ratory precision shown as critical differ- referenced:
8 0.2 0.4 ences are given for each of these proper- 16.3.1 SAE J2020, Standard Test
9 0.1 0.4 ties, respectively, in Tables I, II and III. Method for Accelerated Exposure of Au-
10 0.1 0.4 15.1.3 For each of the properties noted, tomotive Exterior Materials Using a Flu-
when differences are due only to chance orescent UV and Condensation Appara-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
causes, the differences between test re- tus (see 17.7).
Table II—Grab Tensile after Exposure
Exposed Grab
Sample Standard
Mean Variance Deviation
59 29 5.4
95% Level
Values in Critical
Average Standard Error Difference
1 5.4 15.1
2 3.8 10.4
3 3.1 8.7
4 2.7 7.5
5 2.4 6.7
10 1.7 4.8
Control Grab
Sample Standard
Mean Variance Deviation Fig. 3—Representative spectral power distribution,
75.2 6.6 2.6 UVA-340 fluorescent lamps

370 AATCC TM186-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
17. Notes distribution (SED) as shown in Fig. 3. mounted and exposed within an area 210 mm
17.9 Condensation Mechanism. Water va- in height × 900 mm wide on each side of the
17.1 For potential equipment information por shall be generated by heating a water pan apparatus as shown in Fig. 4. Specimen repo-
pertaining to this test method, please visit extending under the entire specimen mounting sitioning is good practice and is always recom-
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. area and containing a minimum water depth of mended. However, if specimens are mounted
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility 25 mm. Specimen racks and the test speci- above, below, or to the side of the 210 mm ×
of listing equipment and materials sold by its mens themselves shall constitute the sidewalls 900 mm area, specimen repositioning is re-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not of the chamber. The backside of the specimens quired as indicated by the dashed line in Fig.
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- shall be exposed to cooling effects of ambient 2.
tify that any of the listed equipment or room air. The resulting heat transfer causes 17.13 Apparatus should be located in an
materials meets the requirements in its test water to condense on the test surface. area maintained at a temperature between
methods. 17.9.1 The specimens are arranged so that 20°C and 30°C. The room temperature shall
17.2 Refer to ASTM G151 and G154 for condensate runs off the test surface by gravity be measured by thermometers mounted on in-
guidance on the design and performance re- and is replaced by fresh condensate in a terior walls or columns approximately 1500
quirements for instruments specified in this continuous process. Vents along the bottom mm above the floor level and at least 300 mm
method (see 16.2). of the test chamber shall be provided to from any heated apparatus. Three or more
17.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as permit an exchange of ambient air and water thermometers located at various points will
when specified in an applicable material spec- vapor to prevent oxygen depletion of the show any temperature variation in the area.
ification, use a number of specimens such that condensate.
the expected test result is not more than 5.0% 17.13.1 It is recommended that the appara-
17.9.2 Water supply with an automatic con- tus be located at least 300 mm from walls or
of the average above or below the true average
trol to regulate the level in the water pan shall other apparatus. Nearby heat sources, such as
of the lot at the 95% probability level. Deter-
be provided. Distilled, deionized or potable ovens or heated test apparatus, should be
mine the number of specimens using coeffi-
tap water are equally acceptable for purposes avoided or shielded, because such heat
cient of variation with one-side limits as
of the test, because the condensation process sources can reduce the cooling required for
directed in ASTM Practice D2905, Number of
itself distills water onto the test surface. condensation.
Specimens Required to Determine the Aver-
age Quality of Textiles. 17.10 Specimen temperature shall be mea- 17.13.2 The room where the apparatus is
17.4 The exposure chamber shall be a Fluo- sured by a Black Panel Thermometer with a located shall be ventilated to remove the heat
rescent UV/Condensation Apparatus con- remote sensor attached to a black aluminum and moisture produced and to maintain the
structed of corrosion-resistant materials panel. The thermometer shall be precise to temperatures specified above. Two to four air
enclosing eight fluorescent UV lamps, a ± 1°C through a range from 30-80°C and shall changes per hour will normally provide suffi-
heated water pan, water spray system (op- be positioned in the center of the exposure cient ventilation.
tional), test specimen racks and provisions for area so that the sensor is subject to the same
controlling and indicating operating times and conditions as the specimens.
17.11 During UV exposure, the selected 18. History
temperatures
17.5 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box equilibrium temperature shall be maintained
within ± 2°C by supplying heated air to the 18.1 Revised in 2022 to align with the style
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: guidelines.
+1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: test chamber. During condensation exposure,
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. the selected equilibrium temperature shall be 18.2 Editorially revised 2019, 2016; revised
17.6 Available from ASTM International maintained within ± 2°C by heating the water 2015; editorially revised and reaffirmed 2013;
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA in the water pan. revised 2009; editorially revised 2008, 2007;
19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832. 17.12 The test specimens shall be mounted reaffirmed 2006, 2001; revised 2000.
9555; web site: www.astm.org. in a stationary specimen exposure area with 18.3 Developed in 1999 by AATCC Com-
17.7 Available from SAE International, 400 the plane of the test surface facing the lamps. mittee RR64; jurisdiction transferred in 2007

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Commonwealth Dr., Warrendale PA 15098- It is recommended that specimens are to Committee RA5.
0001; tel: +1.412.776.4841; web site: www.sae.
org.
17.8 The limits of the spectral range of ul-
traviolet radiation are not well defined and
may vary according to the user. Committee
E-2.1.2 of CIE distinguishes in the spectral
range between 400 and 100 nm:
UV-A 315-400 nm
UV-B 280-315 nm
UV-C 100-280 nm0
Unless otherwise specified, the lamps shall be
UV-A Type Fluorescent UV lamps with a
peak emission at 343 nm and a spectral power Fig. 4—Area of most uniform light intensity.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM186-2022 371
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM187-2013e

Test Method for Dimensional Changes of Fabrics: Accelerated

Developed in 2000 by AATCC Commit- 4.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- Specimens Benchmarks •
tee RA42; reaffirmed 2001, 2002; re- dations should be followed when operat-
vised 2004, 2013; editorially revised ing accelerated testing equipment. Fabric Sample •
2006, 2008, 2011, 2019; editorially re- • •
vised and reaffirmed 2009. Related to 5. Uses and Limitations •

ISO 23231.
5.1 Although data have been generated •

Length Direction
comparing the dimensional change of •
•
•

1. Purpose and Scope some textile fabrics after home laundering

and this accelerated apparatus, the user
1.1 This test method is an accelerated will find it necessary to determine the cor- •
•
•
procedure for determination of the dimen- relation between the results from a selected •
sional change of fabrics. The procedure program for this apparatus and the dimen-
uses an apparatus with programmable sional change results from other chosen •
settings that simulate multiple home or test methods or wet processes (see 14.4). • •
commercial launderings or wet processing. 5.2 While the term “laundering” in- •

1.2 This method does not replace dimen- cludes the use of an aqueous detergent
sional change test methods currently in use. (during washing) and subsequent drying, Width Direction
this accelerated method does not use de- a. Parallel to fabric length direction.
2. Principle tergents.
Fabric Sample •
2.1 Dimensional changes are deter-
mined by comparing the distances be- 6. Apparatus and Materials • •

tween length and width direction bench 6.1 Accelerated laundering apparatus
•

marks before and after a programmed test •

Length Direction
(see 14.1).
cycle. 6.2 Indelible ink marking pen. Select
• •
•

3. Terminology marking pens with the smallest tip (see

•
14.2).
3.1 dimensional change, n.—a ge- 6.3 Tape or ruler marked in millimeters.
• •

neric term for changes in length or width 6.4 A tape or ruled template marked
•

of a fabric specimen subjected to speci- with, or from which, percent dimensional •

fied conditions. The change is usually exchange to 0.5% or smaller increment can • •
pressed as a percentage of the initial di- be directly read (see 14.2). •
mension of a specimen. 6.5 Digital Imaging System (see 14.3).
3.2 growth, n.—of textile materials, a Width Direction
dimensional change resulting in an in- 7. Sampling b. Diagonal to fabric length direction.
crease of length or width of a specimen.
3.3 laundering, n.—of textile materi- 7.1 Take a sufficient number of sam- Fig. 1—Specimen and
als, a process intended to remove soils ples from a lot to provide an adequate bench mark placement.
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with number of data points to generate satis-
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- factory precision.
7.2 It is recommended that a minimum cut diagonally to accommodate 255 mm
mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- bench marks distances that are aligned
tracting and drying. of four specimens with different length
and widthwise yarns in each specimen be with the actual length and width direc-
3.3 shrinkage, n.—of textile materials, tions of the fabric (see Fig. 1b).
dimensional change resulting in a decrease taken from each sample.
8.3 The use of standard textile condi-
in the length or width of a specimen. tioning prior to or after a test cycle pro-
8. Specimens
4. Safety Precautions gram completion is not required.
8.1 Cut specimens parallel to the length- 8.4 To improve the accuracy and preci-
NOTE: These safety precautions are wise fabric direction as shown in Fig. 1a. sion of dimensional change calculations
for information purposes only. The precau- Diagonal alignment of specimens may be based on the bench mark distances ap-
tions are ancillary to the testing pro- selected to minimize the need for over- plied to the specimens as in 8.2.1, mea-
cedures and are not intended to be all- edging specimens and to obtain larger sure and record the distance between
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to bench mark dimensions (see Fig. 1b). each pair of bench marks with suitable
use safe and proper techniques in han- 8.2 The size of specimens may depend tape or ruler to the nearest millimeter be-
dling materials in this test method. Manu- upon the model of the apparatus and the fore starting the test. This is measurement
facturers MUST be consulted for specific type, number and configuration of its A. If using a template or ruler from which
details such as material safety data sheets basket chambers. direct percent dimensional change can be
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 8.2.1 Specimens, 190 × 190 mm, read, verify that the original bench mark
tions. All OSHA standards and rules aligned with the fabric length and width distances are exact.
must also be consulted and followed. directions and marked with 125 mm
4.1 Good laboratory practices should bench mark distances are recommended 9. Test Procedure
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all by the instrument manufacturer. Alterna-
laboratory areas. tively, 255 × 255 mm specimens can be 9.1 Using the program in Table I, de-

372 AATCC TM187-2013e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
termine whether the results obtained from direction separately to the nearest 0.1% tion of within lab variation (Se) and the
this program correlate with testing the as follows: standard deviation of lab-to-lab and
same fabric by selected end-use test pro- %DC = 100[(B-A)/A] within lab variations combined (Sc).
cedure. If the program in Table I does not where: 13.1.3 The preliminary precision was
generate satisfactory correlation with di- DC = Dimensional change obtained from a component of variance
mensional change results from the se- A = Original bench mark distance analysis. Tables II and III show the inter-
lected end-use test procedure, alter pro- B = Bench mark distance after laun- action of the analysis and standard devia-
gram elements such as number of rinses dering test cycle tions: the standard deviation of within-lab
and drying time. variation (Se) and the standard deviation
9.2 Follow the equipment manufac- 11.3 A final measurement smaller than of lab-to-lab and within-lab variations
turer’s recommendations for the number the original measurement indicates nega- combined (Sc) for each fabric direction.
of specimens to be tested in each basket tive dimensional change which is shrink- Average dimensional change percent and
chamber. age (minus sign). A final measurement component of variance analysis for each
9.3 Start the machine and allow the larger than the original measurement in- sample is shown in Appendix A.
program to run through to completion. dicates positive dimensional change 13.1.4 Tables IV and V show single
9.4 Ensure that specimens are com- which is growth (plus sign). fabric and multiple fabric within- and be-
pletely dry at the end of the drying tween-laboratory standard error (SE) and
12. Report
program. If specimens hang up in the critical difference (CD) values.
chamber during drying, they will not be 12.1 For each sample tested, report: 13.2 Bias.
completely dry. If repeated tests with the (a) Individual and average percent 13.2.1 Dimensional change (%) can be
same program cycles results in specimens length and width dimensional change, defined only in terms of a test method or
hanging up in the chamber, the users separately, to the nearest 0.1% with the procedure. This test method has no
should try an alternate program. appropriate dimensional sign (shrinkage known bias.
9.4.1 If test specimens continue to negative/growth positive);
hang up, contact the equipment manufac- (b) Program used; and 14. Notes
turer for other possible alternate programs. (c) Specimen size, alignment (see Figs.
1a or 1b) and number of specimens in 14.1 Quickwash Plus™ System may be ob-
9.5 After completion of the selected tained from SDL Atlas L.L.C., 3934 Airway
program, remove specimens and place each basket chamber. Dr., Rock Hill, SC 29732-9200, tel: +1.803.
them on a flat surface for a minimum of 5 329.2110, fax: +1.803.329.2133; e-mail: info@
min prior to measurement. 13. Precision and Bias sdlatlas.com; web site: www.sdlatlas.com.
13.1 Precision. 14.2 Marking pens are available from
10. Measurement 13.1.1 In a preliminary multiple lab AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle
Park NC 27709, tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.
10.1 Measure and record bench mark study, five fabrics were tested in ten labs. 919.549.8933; e-mail: [email protected];
distances for each specimen in each fab- One operator tested samples on two dif- web site: www.aatcc.org. Measuring ruler
ric direction to the nearest increment of ferent days in each lab. Study samples available from AATCC.
the ruler or device used. This is measure- were: 80 cotton/20 polyester knit fleece, 14.3 A digital imaging system may be used
ment B (see 11.2). 100% cotton twill, 50 cotton/50 polyester as a measuring device in place of the pre-
10.2 Measure and record, to the nearest knit jersey, 100% cotton oxford and 100% scribed manual measurement devices if it is
incremental unit in each fabric direction, cotton knit pique. Lab results were re- established that its accuracy is equivalent to
ported as the average of ten specimens for the manual devices.
the percent dimensional change from the 14.4 Dimensional changes exhibited by
ruler or device used. each fabric. Lab results were obtained on
two different days for each fabric. While articles produced from textile fabrics are pri-
the total study included test results from marily (but not entirely) dependent on dimen-
11. Calculation sional changes exhibited by the fabric.
five accelerated cycles, the data used in
11.1 If measurements were taken in this precision analysis were the reported
units of percent dimensional change, av- dimensional change results obtained from
erage the measurements in each direction only the first accelerated test cycle. Table II—Component of Variance Analysis
separately to the nearest 0.1%. 13.1.2 The reported precision was ob- Variance Variance
11.2 If bench mark measurements were tained from a component of variance COV Length Width
taken, calculate the individual and aver- analysis. Two different standard devia-
age dimensional change results in each tions were calculated: the standard devia- Lab V(L) 0.26 0.11
Fab/Lab V(FL) 0.32 0.23
Days W/I Fabric V(D(F)) 0.36 0.00
Samples W/I Days and
Table I—Accelerated Machine Program Settings* Fabric V(S(DF)) 0.00 0.08
Error V 0.19 0.08
Program Operation Number of Cycles Time per Cycle, s Temperature, °C
Wash** 1 60°C
Agitation time 165 s Table III—Within Lab and Combined
Rinse/dry 3 60°C Lab-to-Lab and Within Lab Percent
Agitation time 45 s Dimensional Change at the 95%
Spin time 35 s Probability Level = 2Se and 2Sc
Dry time 240 s
Air pressure, 3.8 bars LENGTH WIDTH
Water level, 3 L FABRIC Se Sc Se Sc
*According to the machine manufacturer, prior tests have established that this program generates 95% of Knit Fleece 0.49 0.69 0.38 0.70
the total dimensional change in 95% of fabrics tested. Twill 0.34 1.01 0.20 0.35
**The term “wash” implies the use of detergent, but correlation tests by users have shown that the addition Knit Jersey 0.34 0.95 0.37 0.52
of detergent is not necessary in this accelerated test. Due to the nature of the action of the accelerated test Oxford 0.53 0.88 0.55 1.06
procedure, even a slight amount of detergent foams and impedes the test. Knit Pique 0.29 0.66 0.17 0.48

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM187-2013e 373
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Length Precision
Single Fabric Comparison Multiple Fabric Comparisons
Within Between Within Between
Lab Labs Lab Labs
Det/Avg (Single Op) (Single Op)
N SE CD SE CD SE CD SE CD
1 0.42 1.17 0.66 1.84 0.71 1.96 0.87 2.41
2 0.30 0.83 0.59 1.64 0.64 1.77 0.82 2.27
3 0.24 0.68 0.57 1.57 0.62 1.71 0.80 2.22
4 0.21 0.59 0.55 1.53 0.60 1.67 0.79 2.19
5 0.19 0.52 0.54 1.51 0.60 1.65 0.79 2.18
7 0.16 0.44 0.53 1.48 0.59 1.63 0.78 2.16

Table V—Width Precision

Single Fabric Comparison Multiple Fabric Comparisons
Within Between Within Between
Lab Labs Lab Labs
Det/Avg (Single Op) (Single Op)
N SE CD SE CD SE CD SE CD
1 0.29 0.80 0.44 1.23 0.56 1.54 0.65 1.80
2 0.21 0.57 0.39 1.09 0.52 1.42 0.61 1.71
3 0.17 0.46 0.38 1.04 0.50 1.39 0.61 1.68
4 0.15 0.40 0.37 1.02 0.50 1.38 0.60 1.67
5 0.13 0.40 0.36 1.00 0.49 1.36 0.60 1.65
7 0.11 0.30 0.35 0.98 0.49 1.35 0.59 1.64

Appendix A. Component of Variance Analysis for Individual Fabrics*

DC% Lab Day Lab/Day Fabrics Error
Fabric Direction AVG V(L) V(D) V(L/D) V(F W/I D) V
Fleece length 11.34 0.24 1.19 0.12 0.00 0.49
80c/20p width 5.40 0.16 0.15 0.00 0.19 0.14

Twill length 3.84 0.91 0.17 0.26 0.28 0.34

100c width 1.21 0.08 0.01 0.01 0.00 0.04

Jersey length 6.06 0.61 0.10 0.36 0.90 0.34

50c/50p width 1.11 0.13 0.00 0.04 0.00 0.14

Oxford length 2.87 0.48 0.05 0.14 0.00 0.54

100c width 4.72 0.83 0.04 0.00 0.00 0.30

Pique length 9.05 0.35 0.29 0.11 0.02 0.29

100c width 6.98 0.20 0.01 0.08 0.00 0.03

*DC = Dimensional change

*V = Variance
*L = Lab
*D = Day
*F = Fabric
*W/I = Within

374 AATCC TM187-2013e --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Test Method for Colorfastness to Sodium

Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Developed in 2000 by AATCC Commit- result of the exposure of the material to procedure must be controlled at or below
tee RA60; editorially revised and reaf- any environment that might be encoun- levels set by governmental authorities
firmed 2001, 2008; reaffirmed 2002, tered during the processing, testing, stor- (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
2017; revised 2003, 2010; editorially re- age or use of the materials. Administration’s [OSHA] permissible
vised 2004, 2012, 2013, 2016, 2019. 3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29
als, a process intended to remove soil CFR 1910.1000; see web site:
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with www.osha.gov for latest version). In addi-
1. Purpose and Scope an aqueous detergent solution and nor- tion, the American Conference of Govern-
mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- mental Industrial Hygienist (ACGIH)
1.1 This test method is used to deter- tracting and drying. Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) com-
mine the colorfastness to sodium hy- 3.5 sodium hypochlorite bleach, n.— prised of time weighted averages (TLV-
pochlorite bleach, commonly called 4-6% solution of sodium hypochlorite TWA), short term exposure limits (TLV-
“chlorine bleach,” in home laundering of (NaOCl), pH 9.8-12.8, commonly called STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are
textiles which are expected to withstand “chlorine bleach.” recommended as a general guide for air
frequent laundering. contaminant exposure which should be
1.2 Results of this test method may be met (see 14.1).
used in combination with other testing for 4. Safety Precautions
establishing care instructions (see 5.1, 9.6 NOTE: These safety precautions are 5. Uses and Limitations

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
and 12.8). for information purposes only. The pre-
1.3 If a chlorine bleach contains ingre- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 5.1 Specimens may be tested using
dients other than the sodium hypochlo- dures and are not intended to be all inclu- these procedures, but without sodium hy-
rite, it is the total effect of these chemi- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use pochlorite bleach, to determine the effect
cals on the color change that is being safe and proper techniques in handling of laundering with water and/or water and
evaluated. materials in this test method. Manufac- detergent alone (see 9.6 and 12.8). To test
1.4 This test method is designed for turers MUST be consulted for specific for colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach,
home laundering devices. An accelerated details such as material safety data sheets see AATCC TM172, Colorfastness to
colorfastness test simulating multiple home and other manufacturer’s recommenda- Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home
laundering (including those with sodium tions. All OSHA standards and rules Laundering (see 14.2).
hypochlorite) is described in AATCC must also be consulted and followed.
TM61, Test Method for Colorfastness to 4.1 Good laboratory practices should 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 14.3)
Laundering: Accelerated. There is no be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
known correlation between those sections 6.1 Automatic washing machine (see
laboratory areas.
of AATCC TM61 and this method. 14.4).
4.2 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- 6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 14.5).
dations should be followed when operat- 6.3 Conditioning/drying racks with
2. Principle ing laboratory testing equipment. pull-out screens or perforated shelves
2.1 Specimens are laundered under ap- 4.3 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- (see 14.6).
propriate conditions of temperature, de- ence Detergent WOB and the 2003 6.4 Ballast of 920 × 920 mm (± 30 mm)
tergent solution, chlorine bleach solution AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De- hemmed pieces of cloth. Choose one of
and abrasive action for five home laun- tergent WOB may cause irritation. Care the following.
dering cycles. The laundered specimens should be taken to prevent exposure to 6.4.1 Ballast type 1, bleached cotton
are evaluated for color change. skin and eyes. sheeting.
4.4 All chemicals should be handled 6.4.2 Wash load ballast type 3, 50/50
with care. polyester/cotton plain weave.
3. Terminology
4.5 In preparing, dispensing and han- 6.5 1993 AATCC Standard Reference
3.1 bleach, n.—in home laundering, a dling bleach and detergent, use chemical Detergent WOB or 2003 AATCC Stan-
product that will clean, whiten, brighten goggles or face shield, impervious gloves dard Reference Liquid Detergent WOB
and aid in the removal of soils and stains and an impervious apron. (see 14.7).
from textile materials by oxidation that is 4.6 If concentrated sulfuric acid is di- 6.6 Drip and line drying facilities.
inclusive of chlorine and non-chlorine luted to prepare the 10% acid (see 14.8.1 6.7 Balance with at least 5 kg mini-
products. and 14.8.3), use chemical goggles or face mum capacity and sensitivity to ± 0.1 g.
3.2 care instructions, n.—in textiles, a shield, impervious gloves and an imper- 6.8 Lab timer.
series of directions describing which care vious apron. Concentrated acids should 6.9 Gray Scale for Color Change
practices should refurbish a product with- be handled only in an adequately venti- (AATCC EP1) (see 14.7) or suitable col-
out adverse effects and warning of those lated hood. CAUTION: Always add acid orimeter or spectrophotometer for color
care practices expected to have a harmful to water. change.
effect (see 12.1). 4.7 An eyewash/safety shower should
3.3 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of be located nearby and an organic vapor 7. Reagents
a material to change in any of its color respirator should be available for emer-
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- gency use. 7.1 Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl), 4-
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both, as a 4.8 Exposure to chemicals used in this 6%.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM188-2010e3(2017)e 375
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
7.2 Distilled water. mize distortion, and dry by procedures A, structions for Apparel and Other Textile
7.3 Sulfuric acid, H2SO4, (10% solu- B or D [see Table I and AATCC LP1 (see Products), this method with detergent
tion). 9.1)]. only and/or this method using water only
7.4 Potassium iodide, KI, (10% solu- 9.2.5 For the specimen to be dried by may be used.
tion). procedure C, Drip Dry, stop the washer at
7.5 Sodium thiosulfate, Na2S2O3, (0.1N). the end of the final rinse cycle just before
the water begins to drain. Remove the 10. Evaluation
8. Test Specimens specimens soaking wet. 10.1 Visual evaluation.
9.3 Drying. 10.1.1 Using an unwashed specimen
8.1 Use one specimen weighing 110.0 9.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place the from the sample as a control, rate the
± 10.0 g from a sample. If a garment or washed load (test specimens and ballast) color change of the test specimen in at
textile item (towel, bed sheet, etc.) is to in the tumble dryer, set on the cycle least three places on the specimen or
be used as a specimen, weigh the entire which generates the correct exhaust tem- three times in one place using the Gray
item to 0.1 g. If the garment weight ex- peratures as specified in AATCC LP1 Scale for Color Change (AATCC EP1),
ceeds the specified load weight of 1.8 kg, (see 9.1). For fabrics that are heat sensi- or using AATCC EP7, Instrumental As-
the total weight is to be included in the tive, lower temperatures consistent with sessment of the Change in Color of a Test
report. See 9.2.3 for exact weight specifi- producer’s recommendation are required Specimen, and record the numerical rat-
cations on load. and must be reported. Operate the dryer ing that corresponds to the appropriate
until the total load is dry. Remove the one on the Gray Scale.
load immediately after the machine stops. 10.1.2 Ratings may be made compared
9. Procedure
9.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Hang each speci- to an unexposed control cut from the test
9.1 Table I summarizes washing and men by two corners with the fabric length sample or compared to a laundered con-
drying conditions. Information on the in the vertical direction. Allow the test trol specimen of known fastness.
machine and laundering conditions may specimens to hang in still air at room 10.2 Instrumental evaluation.
be found in the AATCC LP1 (see 14.10). temperature until dry. 10.2.1 Instrumental measurements
9.2 Washing. 9.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Hang each drip- comparing unexposed and exposed,
9.2.1 Fill the washer with the specified ping wet specimen by two corners, with (washed), specimen or garments may be
water volume at the selected water tem- the fabric length in the vertical direction. used (see AATCC EP6, Instrumental
perature using the normal cycle setting. Allow specimens to hang in still air at Color Measurement, AATCC EP7, and
Measure and record the water hardness in room temperature until dry. AATCC TM173, Test Method for Calcu-
any test. 9.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread each lation of Small Color Differences for Ac-
9.2.2 Add 66 ± 1 g of 1993 AATCC specimen on a horizontal screen or perfo- ceptability).
Standard Reference Detergent WOB or rated surface, removing wrinkles but not
100 ± 1 g of 2003 AATCC Standard Ref- distorting or stretching and allow to dry
in still air at room temperature. 11. Interpretation of Results
erence Liquid Detergent WOB (see 6.5).
Add 240 ± 5 mL (1 cup) of sodium hy- 9.4 Repeat 9.2 and 9.3 for a total of 11.1 This test is a satisfactory end use
pochlorite bleach or the amount recom- five launderings or to an end point of test for demonstrating the effect of the
mended by the manufacturer for a full color change (see 14.2). 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Deter-
load of laundry. Run the washer for 2 min 9.5 On completion of the fifth laundry gent WOB or the 2003 AATCC Standard
to ensure proper mixing of liquor. cycle, (or after each cycle where end Reference Liquid Detergent WOB and
9.2.3 Add enough ballast to the speci- point criteria are to be met), condition the chlorine bleach on textile materials in
men to make a 1.8 ± 0.1 kg load. Set the specimens for at least 4 h by laying each home laundering. The color change re-
washer on the cycle selected for washing specimen separately on the screen or sults will establish a level of performance
and set the wash timer (see Table I and perforated shelf of a conditioning rack at that can be used to prepare care instruc-
9.1). Start the agitation and indepen- an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) tions (see 14.9 and ASTM D3938).
dently time the wash for reproducible re- and 65 ± 5% RH before evaluating color 11.2 If a significant color change is ob-
sults. When the desired wash time is change. served, an untreated duplicate sample
complete, stop washer and advance the 9.6 If this test method is to be used to should be retested using this method with
dial to the end of the wash cycle. Restart develop care instructions, specimens may water only and/or by following AATCC
washer to rinse, drain and spin the load. also have to undergo further testing. Non- TM172 (see 9.6).
9.2.4 For the specimen to be dried by chlorine bleach sensitivity may need to
procedures A, B or D, allow washing to be tested using AATCC TM172. To sep-
12. Report
proceed through the rinse and final spin arate the effects of components such as
cycle. Remove test specimens immedi- hardness, pH or bleach content (see 5.1, 12.1 Report the numerical average
ately after the final spin cycle, separate 12.8 and ASTM D3938, Standard Guide color change grade for each specimen
any tangled pieces, taking care to mini- for Determining or Confirming Care In- tested.
12.2 Report washing conditions (Ara-
bic and Roman Numerals) and drying
conditions (capital letter from Table I;
Table I—Washing and Drying Conditions (see 14.10) [i.e., (1) IIIA (iii)] means NORMAL cy-
cle, wash water temperature of 41 ± 3°C,
Machine Cycle Wash Temperatures Drying Procedures tumble dry [permanent press]).
(1) Normal or Cotton/Sturdy (II) 27 ± 3°C (80 ± 5°F) (A) Tumble: 12.3 Report the type and amount of de-
(2) Delicate (III) 41 ± 3°C (105 ± 5°F) i. iiCotton/Sturdy tergent used.
(3) Permanent Press (IV) 49 ± 3°C (120 ± 5°F) ii. iDelicate 12.4 Report the brand, sodium hy-
(V) 60 ± 3°C (140 ± 5°F) iii. Permanent Press pochlorite activity, and amount of the
(B) Line chlorine bleach used.
(C) Drip 12.5 Report the available chlorine con-
(D) Screen tent delivered to the wash by the dosage
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

376 AATCC TM188-2010e3(2017)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
(see 14.8.3). Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1. 14.8.3 To determine the available chlorine
12.6 Report the weight of fabric speci- 919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; web site: delivered to the wash solution, weigh a 50 g
men or garment tested, if other than www.aatcc.org, for model number(s) and wash water sample into an Erlenmeyer flask.
found in 8.1. source of current recommended washer(s). Add 10 mL of 10% sulfuric acid and 10 mL of
Any other washer which is known to give 10% potassium iodide. Titrate with 0.01N so-
12.7 Report the number of wash cycles comparable results may be used. Washing dium thiosulfate until colorless.
tested, if other than 5. machine conditions given in M6 represent the
12.8 Report water hardness. actual speeds and times available on current Calculation:
12.9 If the information gained through specified model(s). Other washers may vary in ppm available chlorine =
this testing is to be used in establishing one or more of these settings.
care instructions, results of washing us- 14.5 Contact AATCC (see 14.4) for model mL Na 2 S 2 O 3 ( 0.01N ) ( 35.45 ) ( 1000 )
ing detergent and powdered non-chlorine number(s) and source(s) of current recom- -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
( 50 g wash water sample )
bleach, detergent alone or water alone mended dryer(s). Any other dryer which is
known to give comparable results can be used.
may have to be included (see 5.1 and 9.6). Dryer machine conditions given in M6 repre-
NOTE: No buffering agent is required since
the solution is already buffered by the detergent.
sent the actual speeds and times available on
current specified model(s). Other dryers may 14.9 ASTM methods available from ASTM
13. Precision and Bias International, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Con-
vary in one or more of the settings.
14.6 Screen or perforated conditioning/dry- shohocken PA 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500;
13.1 Precision. fax: +1.610.832.9555; web site: www.astm.org.
13.1.1 In 2001 a single laboratory ing racks available from Somers Sheet Metal
Inc., 5590 N. Church St., Greensboro NC 14.10 Laundering temperatures and other
study was performed. The same operator parameters listed in AATCC LP1 may not be
27455; tel: +1.336.643.3477. Drawings of
tested all samples. racks are available from AATCC (see 14.4). the same as those listed in various test meth-
13.1.2 Samples tested consisted of 14.7 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box ods. Parameters in AATCC LP1 are updated
three fabrics dyed with three different 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: periodically to reflect consumer experience,
dyes. Washing conditions tested con- +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: taking into account current technology and
sisted of 60°C (140°F) and 49°C (120°F) [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. regulations regarding home water heater tem-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
wash temperatures. Both tests used 200 14.8 Use sodium hypochlorite bleach pur- peratures, particularly in the United States.
ppm levels of sodium hypochlorite. Each chased within the last six months. Keep the Typically, test method committees pursue a
sample was evaluated instrumentally bleach sealed in an airtight container and in a deliberate effort to maintain the same test
cool, dry place. method conditions over a long period of time
three times and averages were calculated. in order to produce comparable results over
14.8.1 To confirm the sodium hypochlorite
13.1.3 Within-laboratory Standard bleach’s activity, weigh 2.00 g sodium hy- time. Additionally, significant changes may
Errors and Critical Differences are shown pochlorite into an Erlenmeyer flask and dilute invalidate precision data developed using the
in Table II. Data are on file at the to 50 mL with deionized water. Add 10 mL of original conditions.
AATCC Technical Center. 10% sulfuric acid and 10 mL of 10% potas- Temperatures listed in AATCC test meth-
13.2 Bias. The colorfastness to chlo- sium iodide. Titrate with 0.1N sodium thiosul- ods were established at the time the methods
rine bleach in home laundering can be de- fate until colorless. were developed or revised, and closely mirror
fined only in terms of a test method. Calculation: the temperature ranges specified in 16 CFR
There is no independent method for de- Part 423 for care labels. It should also be
% sodium hypochlorite = noted that AATCC test methods were devel-
termining the true value. As a means of
oped using traditional top loading washing
estimating this property, the method has mL Na 2 S 2 O 3 ( 0.1N ) ( 0.03722 ) machines. Specified water level, detergent,
no known bias. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- × 100
2.0 g NaOCl and other details are not applicable to high ef-
ficiency top loading or front loading ma-
14. Notes The factor 0.03722 is derived by multiplying chines. New, commercially available home
the molecular weight of NaOCl (74.45 g/mol) laundering machines may have to be modified
14.1 Available from Publications Office, by 0.001 (mL to L conversion) and dividing by the user to meet the specifications in vari-
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper by 2 (mols of thiosulfate per hypochlorite). ous test methods. All test reports should indi-
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. 14.8.2 Oxidizing power of sodium hy- cate the exact testing conditions, and any
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. pochlorite is typically expressed in terms of modification of the standard method, includ-
14.2 While the design of this method is to available chlorine, the equivalent amount of ing use of AATCC LP1 parameters. Results of
expose specimens to 5 cycles of washing and diatomic chlorine present. A 5.25% NaOCl so- tests performed with different conditions may
drying, the number of cycles may be short- lution contains 50,000 ppm available chlorine. not be comparable.
ened or lengthened if the end point is a spe-
cific grade for color change.
14.3 For potential equipment information
pertaining to this test method, please visit
Table II—Within-Laboratory Standard Errors and
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. Critical Differences* (95% Probability) n-3)
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
of listing equipment and materials sold by its Wash Temperature Average DE* Standard Error Critical Difference
Corporate members, but AATCC does not 60°C (140°F) wash 22.19 0.22 0.61
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 49°C (120°F) wash 19.56 0.31 0.86
tify that any of the listed equipment or
materials meets the requirements in its test *Note: In this single laboratory test, estimates of standard error and critical differences may be either under-
methods. estimated or overestimated to a considerable extent and should be used with special caution. The values should
14.4 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, be viewed as minimal data with regards to precision. Confidence intervals are not well established.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM188-2010e3(2017)e 377
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM189-2017e

Test Method for Fluorine Content of Carpet Fibers

Developed in 2000 by AATCC Commit- droxide standards. The standards should
tee RA57; editorially revised and reaf- be made and dispensed in a hood.
firmed 2001, 2007; reaffirmed 2002, 4.3 An eyewash/safety shower should
2012; editorially revised 2005, 2010, be located nearby and a self-contained
2019; revised 2017. breathing apparatus should be readily
available for emergency use.
4.4 Exercise care in cutting the speci-
1. Purpose and Scope mens with the scalpel or razor blade; pro-
tective gloves may provide additional
1.1 This method is for determining the protection.
amount of fluorocarbon soil-resist agent 4.5 Oxygen supply pressure from the
present on carpet fibers by measurement of pressure regulator should not exceed 10
elemental fluorine on the pile fiber. It is psi.
useful for measurement of fluorocarbon 4.6 Do not operate the test equipment
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

present on carpet pile fiber as tested within until the manufacturer’s operating in-
the practical range of 50 to 1000 µg/g structions have been read and under-
(ppm). It may also be used for yarns treated stood. It is the responsibility of whoever
with fluorocarbon anti-soiling agents. operates the test equipment to conform to
the manufacturer’s directions for safe
2. Principle operation.
2.1 A weighed fiber specimen is 4.7 Exposure to chemicals used in this
burned in an oxygen combustion flask procedure must be controlled at or below
Fig. 1—Ignited specimen suspended from
and the released hydrogen fluoride is ab- levels set by governmental authorities
platinum wire attached to ball stopper.
sorbed into a sodium hydroxide solution. (e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
The fluorine content is measured as dis- Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex-
solved sodium fluoride at a constant pH posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 5.11 Sodium Fluoride (NaF) standard
and ionic strength using a fluoride ion ac- (see Appendix A).
tivity electrode and a specific ion meter. for latest version). Fluoride salts and so-
dium hydroxides are listed with OSHA 5.12 Mechanical shaker (optional).
permissible exposure limits [PEL]. In ad-
3. Terminology dition, the American Conference of Gov- 6. Calibration
3.1 fluorine content, n.—in textile ernmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH)
floor coverings, the ratio of the weight of Threshold Limit Values (TLVs) com- 6.1 Calibrate the specific ion meter us-
total elemental fluorine to the total prised of time weighted averages (TLV- ing the procedures described in the opera-
weight of carpet fibers. TWA), short term exposure limits (TLV- tion manuals for the fluoride ion activity
3.2 soil resist agent, n—a material ap- STEL) and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are electrode and the specific ion meter. Cali-
plied to, or incorporated in, carpet face fi- recommended as a general guide for air bration should be done on a daily or ev-
ber which retards and/or limits the build- contaminant exposure which should be ery shift basis.
up of soil. met (see 12.1).
7. Sampling
4. Safety Precautions 5. Apparatus, Reagents, Materials
7.1 Prepare the yarn sample by remov-
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.1 500-mL combustion flask with ball ing the tufts from the carpet sample with
for information purposes only. The pre- stopper (with platinum wire hook) and a scalpel or razor blade. Cut the tufts as
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- clamp (one each per specimen; reusable, close to the primary backing as possible
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- see Fig. 1). having a stubble not greater than 1 mm.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 5.2 Platinum carrier basket (one per Twenty to 40 tufts are required for a sin-
safe and proper techniques in handling sample; reusable). gle sample, depending on carpet con-
materials in this test method. Manufac- 5.3 Indirect source of ignition. struction. Place the tufts in a paper enve-
turers MUST be consulted for specific 5.4 Black paper specimen wrappers lope and identify by test number.
details such as material safety data sheets (one per sample). 7.1.1 Sampling Option #1. To deter-
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.5 Specific ion meter. mine an overall average fluorine content
tions. All OSHA standards and rules 5.6 Fluoride ion selective electrode. of carpet fibers, take samples from across
must also be consulted and followed. 5.7 Reference electrode. the entire width of the carpet to compen-
4.1 Good laboratory practices should 5.8 0.001N Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH). sate for possible variability in application
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 5.9 TISAB (Total Ionic Strength Ad- and combine the tufts in a single envelope.
laboratory areas. justment Buffer with CDTA (1,2-cyclo- 7.1.2 Sampling Option #2. To deter-
4.2 All chemicals should be handled hexanediaminetetraacetic acid) or formu- mine the variability of fluorine content
with care. Use chemical goggles or face lated for fluorine analysis to prevent across a carpet sample, take multiple
shield, impervious gloves and an imper- aluminum interference) (see 12.2). samples from various areas of the carpet
vious apron during the dispensing and 5.10 Re-pipette or bottle-top dispenser and analyze each set of carpet tufts sepa-
mixing of the fluoride and sodium hy- (optional). rately (see 12.3).

378 AATCC TM189-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8. Procedure 8.12 Remove the platinum basket from by the individual lab based on the appli-
the solution using tweezers. Cover the cation levels of interest. These limits are
8.1 Perform single-step (8.4) or two- cup and allow the mixture to cool by sit- determined by the calibration standards
step (8.5) process. ting at room temperature for a minimum used and the meter/electrodes’ capability.
8.2 Weigh samples using tared weigh- of 30 min. (see 12.6). Any result below 25 ppm could be con-
ing pans. Weigh between 0.110 g and 8.13 Place the fluoride ion specific sidered “background noise.”
0.150 g of randomly selected tufts from electrode into the cup containing the
each sample and record the weight. Fold cooled test solution from the flask. Stir
all of the weighed tufts into the black pa- 10. Precision & Bias
slowly and allow the meter to stabilize.
per sample holder and place the paper Read and record the meter reading along- 10.1 Interlaboratory test data. An in-
holder into the platinum basket. Suspend side the sample weight (see 12.7). terlaboratory study was conducted in
the basket from the platinum wire hook 1998 utilizing eight laboratories and two
8.14 Decontaminate the electrode. Dis-
on the flask stopper. nylon face fiber carpets. Each laboratory
card the solutions in the plastic cups and
8.3 Number each combustion flask and made five determinations from each
to prevent cross-contamination, do not
plastic cup. specimen using a single operator.
reuse the cups. Wash the platinum bas-
8.4 Buffer Addition: Single-Step Method
kets and glassware, rinse with deionized 10.2 Components of variance. The
8.4.1 Dispense 20.0 ± 1 mL of the
or distilled water, and dry prior to using components of variance shown as vari-
0.001N sodium hydroxide solution into
in a new test. ances and the square root of the variances
the oxygen combustion flask (see 12.4).
8.4.2 Dispense 20 mL of TISAB into (to show appropriate units of measure)
the oxygen combustion flask. 9. Calculation are listed in Tables I and II.
8.5 Buffer Addition: Two-Step Method 10.3 Precision parameters. For the
9.1 Calculate the results as follows: components of variance reported in Table
8.5.1 Dispense 20.0 ± 1 mL of the
0.001N sodium hydroxide solution into a) If the meter was calibrated multiply- I, two averages of observed values should
the oxygen combustion flask. TISAB will ing the calibration standards by 40 (vol- be considered significantly different at
be added later. ume of the solution in mL), then the cal- the 95% probability level if the difference
8.6 Attach a flexible tube on the oxy- culation is: equals or exceeds the critical differences
gen supply. Turn ON the oxygen supply. listed in Table II.
Meter Reading-
------------------------------------ 10.3.1 Because only two carpets were
Place the flexible plastic tube into the ox- Sample Weight
ygen combustion flask. Turn ON the used in this evaluation, users of the test
pressure regulator and allow oxygen to b) If the meter was calibrated without method are advised to apply statistical
fill the flask for 5-15 s. Turn OFF the ox- multiplying by the sample volume, then caution in comparison of other carpets.
ygen flow (see 12.5). the calculation is: 10.4 Bias. Fluorine content can be de-
8.7 Immediately place the flask stopper fined only in terms of a test method.
with the platinum basket suspended from Meter Reading- × Sample Volume (mL) While there are other independent means
------------------------------------ to determine fluorine content, any bias of
the hook on the flask and clamp in place. Sample Weight
Do not allow the sample basket to be- this method in comparison to them have
come wet or the sample will not ignite. 9.1.1 Quantitation limits should be set not been established.
8.8 Place the flask in the infrared igni-
tion cabinet. Any indirect source of igni-
tion is acceptable. The cabinet serves as a
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

contaminant in the event the flask over Table I—Components of Variance for Fluorine Content
pressurizes and fails. Individual labs can (Expressed as Variances and Standard Deviations a)
determine method of ignition. Source of
ignition should be turned OFF once the Standard Deviation
Component Variance µg/g (ppm)
sample ignites. Allow the flame to burn
out. Do not open the cabinet until the Specimens within materials and laboratories 630.0 25.1
flaming has completely ceased. Confirm Laboratories 378.0 19.4
that the test specimen has burned com- Interaction: Materials times laboratories 59.6 7.7
pletely. If any portion of the sample re- a
mains unburned, abort the test. Remove Square roots of the components of variance are reported to express the variability in the appropriate units of
measure rather than as the squares of those units of measure.
the flask from the ignition cabinet using a
flask grip or gloves, as the flask will be hot.
8.9 Shake the flask.
8.9.1 If a mechanical shaker is used, Table II—Critical Differences for the Conditions Noted
place the flask into the holder and secure 95% Probability Level, Single Material Comparisons µg/g (ppm) Fluorine
into position. Turn on the mechanical
shaker for 1.5-2 min. Remove the flask. Within-Laboratory Precision Between-Laboratory Precision
Number of
8.9.2 If shaking is done by hand, shake Test Results Standard Critical Standard Critical
vigorously for a minimum of 30 s. in each Average Error Difference Error Difference
8.10 For Two-Step Method Only. Dis-
pense 20.0 ± 1 mL of TISAB into the 1 25.1 70 31.7 88
empty flask. When dispensing, lift the 2 17.8 49 26.3 73
3 14.5 40 24.2 67
flask stopper as little as possible to pre-
4 12.6 35 23.1 64
vent any loss of gases. Replace the stop- 5 11.2 31 22.4 62
per and clamp in place. Repeat step 8.9. 7 9.5 27 21.6 61
8.11 Open the flask and pour all of the 9 8.9 23 21.2 59
buffer solution (sodium hydroxide/TISAB)
into a 100-mL plastic cup labeled with NOTE 1—The tabulated values of the critical differences should be considered to be a general statement, particu-
the test number. larly with respect to between-laboratory precision.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM189-2017e 379
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
11. Report may be used for the stock solutions of sodium water to the 1 L mark and shake until dis-
hydroxide and TISAB buffer. If so, they solved.
11.1 Report carpet description and date should be checked for calibration daily. A1.2 20 µg/g (ppm) fluoride standard:
of testing. 12.5 The pressure from the pressure regula-
Pipette 10.0 mL of the above 2000 µg/g
11.2 Report any variation from proce- tor should not exceed 14 kPa (2 psi). Exces-
(ppm) solution into a 1 L volumetric
dure. sive pressure may cause splashing.
12.6 An equilibrating bath can be used to flask. Add distilled water to the 1 L mark
11.3 Report test result from 9.1. and shake.
bring the temperature of the solution to the
temperature at which the meter was calibrated A1.3 2 µg/g (ppm) fluoride standard:
12. Notes more rapidly. Use of a temperature correcting Pipette 100.0 mL of the 20 µg/g (ppm)
electrode can allow for some tolerance around fluoride solution into a 1 L volumetric
12.1 Available from Publications Office,
the initial calibration temperature. Reference flask. Add distilled water to the 1 L mark
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
the manufacturer’s guidelines for electrode
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
and meter operation.
and shake.
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. A1.4 0.001N sodium hydroxide solu-
12.7 Keep the electrodes immersed in the
12.2 Total Ionic Adjustment Buffer tion: Pipette 2.00 mL of 0.500N NaOH
2 µg/g (ppm) fluoride standard solution when
(TISAB) is available from most laboratory into a 1 L volumetric flask. Fill to the 1 L
not in use to maintain electrode conditioning.
supply companies. The buffer solution con-
tains the following: sodium citrate, sodium mark with distilled water and shake.
hydroxide, acetic acid and water.
12.3 In order to prevent confusion, a sam- Appendix A
ple numbering system should be established Standard Preparation Appendix B
wherein all items to be used with a specific Maintaining Laboratory Level
test specimen are numbered the same; i.e., pa-
A1 Examples of fluoride standards:
per envelopes, plastic cups, combustion A1.1 2000 µg/g (ppm) fluoride stan- B1 It is strongly suggested that nylon
flasks, etc. dard: Weigh 4.4200 ± 0.0001 g of oven fiber with known amount of non-volatile
12.4 For convenience in processing large dried sodium fluoride (NaF) and transfer fluorocarbon treatment be used to develop
numbers of samples, re-pipette dispensers to a 1 L volumetric flask. Add distilled and maintain a control chart of testing.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

380 AATCC TM189-2017e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM190-2010e2(2016)e2

Test Method for Colorfastness to Home Laundering with

Activated Oxygen Bleach Detergent: Accelerated
Developed in 2001 by AATCC Commit- tracting and drying. (AATCC EP1) (see 12.4).
tee RA60; reaffirmed 2002, 2003; reaf- 3.5 oxygen bleach, n.—a bleach agent 5.3 Reagents and Materials
firmed and editorially revised 2008, which can liberate hydrogen peroxide by 5.3.1 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-
2016; revised 2010; editorially revised hydrolysis upon dissolving in water. ence Detergent WOB (without optical
2012, 2013, 2019. Partly equivalent to brightener and without phosphate) or 2003
ISO 105-C09. 4. Safety Precautions AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De-
tergent WOB (see 10.3 and 12.5).
NOTE: These safety precautions are 5.3.2 Bleach activator (see 12.6).
1. Purpose and Scope for information purposes only. The pre- 5.3.3 Sodium perborate monohydrate
1.1 This test method is a diagnostic test cautions are ancillary to the testing pro- (PB1) (see 12.4).
intended to screen dyed cotton textiles cedures and are not intended to be all 5.3.4 Water, distilled or deionized hav-
sensitive to oxygen bleach detergents. It inclusive. It is the user’s responsibility to ing <15 ppm hardness.
provides an accelerated procedure to as- use safe and proper techniques in han- 5.3.5 Balance, accurate to ± 0.01 g.
sess the shade changes of dyed textiles dling materials in the test method. Manu- 5.3.6 Electric or automatic stirrer.
when exposed to activated oxygen bleach facturers MUST be consulted for specific 5.3.7 Blotting paper (see 12.4).
detergent (simulating multiple home details such as material safety data sheets 5.3.8 Screen or drying rack.
launderings, typically 10 or more). This and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 5.3.9 White cards (specimen mounts)
procedure is most appropriately used dur- tions. All OSHA standards and rules with Y tristimulus value at least 85%.
ing the dye selection process, prior to the must also be consulted and followed.
production of washable textiles. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6. Test Specimens
1.2 This method does not reflect the
contribution to shade change of optical laboratory areas. 6.1 Prepare a 50 × 100 mm specimen
brighteners, which are present in some 4.2 All chemicals should be handled of the sample being tested. Woven fab-
commercial washing products, or finishes with care. rics may be stitched around edges with
that may be applied to the textile during 4.3 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer- colorfast (preferably white) thread to pre-
production. ence Detergent WOB and the 2003 vent raveling.
AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De- 6.2 Yarn may be knit on an appropriate
2. Principle tergent WOB may cause irritation. Care sample knitting machine.
should be taken to prevent exposure to 6.3 Keep one specimen of each sample
2.1 A specimen of the dyed textile is skin and eyes. as an unwashed original.
laundered, rinsed, and dried. Specimens 4.4 Use suitable gloves when handling 6.4 Weigh the specimen using the bal-
are tested under defined conditions of hot canisters. ance (see 5.3.5) to aid in accurate liquor
temperature, bleach concentration and 4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should ratio volumes.
time to assess whether fading will occur be located nearby for emergency use.
after multiple home launderings. The 6.5 Test only one specimen in each
4.6 Manufacturer’s safety recommen- canister.
color difference between the test speci- dations should be followed when operat-
men and the original textile is assessed 6.6 Three replicates are advised for im-
ing laboratory testing equipment. proved precision. Replicates should be
instrumentally or visually.
tested in separate accelerated test cycles.
3. Terminology 5. Apparatus, Reagents and Materials
(see 12.1) 7. Procedure
3.1 activated oxygen bleach, n.—a
bleaching system comprising an oxygen 5.1 Apparatus 7.1 Adjust the accelerated tester to
bleach and a bleach activator. 5.1.1 An accelerated laundering ma- maintain 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 4°F).
3.2 bleach activator, n.—a bleach chine used for rotating closed canisters in 7.2 A minimum of 1 L detergent solu-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

agent precursor, which converts a less a thermostatically controlled (± 2°C [± tion should be prepared and freshly made
potent bleaching species into a more 4°F] of prescribed temperature) water immediately prior to each accelerated
powerful one. bath at 40 ± 2 rpm. test.
3.3 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 5.1.2 Stainless steel lever lock canis- 7.3 Prepare the wash liquor by
a material to change in any of its color ters 550 ± 50 mL, 75 × 125 mm. For dissolving 10 ± 0.3 g of the 1993
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- heavy weight fabrics, stainless steel lever AATCC Standard Reference Detergent
rant(s) to adjacent materials, or both, as a lock canisters 1200 mL, 90 × 200 mm WOB powder or 15.2 ± 0.5 g of 2003
result of the exposure of the material to may be used. AATCC Standard Reference Liquid De-
any environment that might be encoun- 5.1.3 Teflon fluorocarbon gaskets, op- tergent WOB (see 5.3.1) plus 4 g bleach
tered during the processing, testing, stor- tional (see 7.5.2 and 12.2). activator (100% activity) (see 12.6) and 3
age or use of the material. 5.1.4 Preheater/storage module, op- g sodium perborate monohydrate (PB1)
3.4 laundering, n.—of textile materi- tional (see 7.5). per liter of water (see 5.3.4). Preheat this
als, a process intended to remove soils 5.1.5 NOTE: Steel balls are NOT used solution to 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 4°F) and stir
and/or stains by treatment (washing) with in this testing. with electric/automatic stirrer for 10 ± 1
an aqueous detergent solution and nor- 5.2 Suitable colorimeter, spectropho- min to ensure thorough dispersion of
mally including subsequent rinsing, ex- tometer or Gray Scale for Color Change chemicals. The level of bleach activator

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM190-2010e2(2016)e2 381
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
can vary according to identity and level for evaluation by trimming off raveled change (see AATCC M6, Standardization
of bleach activation desired. yarns and lightly brushing off any loose of Home Laundry Test Conditions at
7.4 Add to each accelerated test canis- fiber and yarn on the fabric surfaces. www.aatcc.org for latest version of the
ter the appropriate volume of wash liquor Brush pile fabric specimens in required monograph). Consequently, caution in in-
to provide a liquor:specimen ratio of 100 direction to restore them as nearly as pos- terpreting test results is advised.
mL wash liquor:1 g of fabric. (Test one sible to the same pile angle as the un-
specimen per accelerated test canister.) treated specimens. Specimens should be
hand smoothed or flattened if they are 10. Report
7.5 Two options for preheating the
canisters to the test temperature are ac- wrinkled due to washing and/or drying. 10.1 Report the color change results
ceptable. Use either the accelerated tester Specimens may be mounted on cards to determined in 8.1.
or the preheater/storage unit. If the canis- facilitate identification and handling in 10.2 State the evaluation method (see
ters are to be preheated in accelerated their evaluation. For consistency in back- 8.1.1 and 8.1.2) and scale used (refer to
tester, proceed to 7.5.2. ing material, use a white mounting card AATCC EP7 and AATCC TM173, Test
7.5.1 Place the canisters in the pre- with Y tristimulus value of at least 85%. Method for CMC: Calculation of Small
heater module at 20 ± 2°C (68 ± 4°F). Mounting material must not be visible in Color Differences for Acceptability).
They are to remain in the module for at the area to be viewed and must not inter- 10.3 Report the type and amount of de-
least 2 min. Enter a test specimen into fere with rating as specified in AATCC tergent used (see 12.5).
each canister. EP7, Evaluation Procedure for Instru- 10.4 Report which accelerated tester
7.5.2 Clamp the covers on the canis- mental Assessment of the Change in was used.
ters. A Teflon fluorocarbon gasket (see Color of a Test Specimen.
5.1.3) may be inserted between the neo-
prene gasket and the top of each canister 11. Precision and Bias
to prevent contamination of the wash 8. Evaluation
11.1 An interlaboratory test was con-
solution by the neoprene. Fasten the 75 × ducted in 1999 to establish the precision
8.1 Evaluation of color change.
125 mm lever lock canisters in the adapt- of the test method. Testing was con-
ers on the rotor of the accelerated tester. 8.1.1 Evaluate the test specimen for
change in color by comparison with the ducted under the normal atmospheric
Place an equal number of canisters on conditions of each laboratory. One opera-
each side of the shaft. For canisters pre- Gray Scale for Color Change (AATCC
EP1) or using AATCC EP7, Instrumental tor at each of seven laboratories evalu-
heated in the module, proceed to 7.8. ated six dyed fabrics in three replications
7.6 Start the rotor and run for at least Assessment of the Change in Color of a
Test Specimen, and record the numerical using the accelerated test method. Color
2 min to preheat the canisters. change (CIELAB) was measured on a
rating that corresponds to the appropriate
7.7 Stop the rotor and with a row of spectrophotometer using an aperture of
one on the Gray Scale.
canisters in an upright position, unclamp 25.4 mm, illuminant D65/10° observer.
the cover of one canister, enter a test 8.1.2 For improved precision and accu-
racy the specimens should be rated by Components of variance and critical dif-
specimen into the solution and replace ferences are outlined below of fabrics
the cover, but do not clamp it. Repeat this more than one rater.
representing different sensitivities to acti-
operation until all the canisters in the row vated oxygen bleach detergent.
have been loaded. Then clamp the covers 11.2 Components of variance as stan-
in the same order in which the canisters 9. Interpretation of Results
dard deviations of ΔE*CIELAB readings
were loaded (delay clamping the covers 9.1 Results from the test are intended are given in Table I.
to allow equalization of pressure). Repeat to estimate the sensitivity of dyed textiles 11.3 Critical Differences. For the com-
this operation without stopping until all to activated oxygen bleach detergent. ponent of variance in Table I for this in-
rows of canisters have been loaded. This is an accelerated test, and in obtain- terlaboratory test, two averages of ob-
7.8 Close the container and commence ing the required degree of acceleration served value should be considered
rotation immediately after all canisters some of the conditions, such as tempera- significantly different at the 95% proba-
have been loaded.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ture, were purposely exaggerated. Laun- bility level if the difference equals or ex-
7.9 Increase the temperature at a maxi- dry detergents, washers and dryers, laun- ceeds the critical differences shown in
mum of 2°C/min (35°F/min) to 60 ± 2°C dry practices and fabrics continue to Table II.
(140 ± 4°F) and continue to run for a fur-
ther 30 min at 60 ± 2°C (140 ± 4°F).
7.10 Stop the machine, remove the
canisters and empty the contents into bea-
kers keeping each test specimen in a sep- Table I—Components of Variance
arate beaker. Rinse each test specimen
three times, in beakers, in water (see Single-Operator Between-Laboratory
5.3.4) at 40 ± 3°C (104 ± 5°C) for 1 min Dyed Fabric Average ΔE* Component Component
periods with occasional stirring or hand #1 1.21 0.185 0.487
squeezing. #2 6.13 0.222 1.055
7.11 Squeeze the test specimen by #3 18.16 2.270 10.936
hand to remove the excess water.
7.12 Dry the specimen by hand press-
ing flat between blotting papers to re- Table II—Critical Differences
move excess water. Then lay the speci-
men flat on a drying rack or screen not Between-
exceeding 60°C (140°F). No. of Single-Operator Laboratory
7.13 Allow the specimens to condition Dyed Fabric Average ΔE* Observations Component Component
at 65 ± 5% RH and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) #1 1.21 3 0.696 2.074
for 1 h before evaluating. #2 6.13 3 0.761 2.975
7.14 Prepare tested fabric specimens #3 18.16 3 2.436 9.574

382 AATCC TM190-2010e2(2016)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
12. Notes DuPont Co., Wilmington DE 19898. +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
12.3 The preheater/storage unit may be a [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
12.1 For potential equipment information side unit to the accelerated tester or a separate 12.6 The quantities of bleach activator used
pertaining to this test method, please visit module with its individual electric heater and in this method are specifically for sodium
the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. thermostat to control water bath temperatures nonanoyloxybenzene sulfonate. Other bleach
aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility for heating containers and solutions prior to activators do exist, but the levels used
of listing equipment and materials sold by its loading the accelerated tester. may differ from that of sodium nonanoyloxy-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not 12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box benzene sulfonate. Sodium nonanoyloxyben-
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: zene sulfonate is available from AATCC,
tify that any of the listed equipment or +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park
materials meets the requirements in its test [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org. NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
methods. 12.5 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box 549.8933; e-mail: [email protected]; web
12.2 Teflon is a registered trademark of the 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: site: www.aatcc.org.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM190-2010e2(2016)e2 383
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM191-2021

Test Method for Acid Cellulase Enzyme

Treatment of Cellulosic Fabrics
1. Purpose and Scope 5. Safety Precautions enough laundering ballast pieces to make
a total of 4 pieces. Record initial weight
1.1 This test method describes a proce- 5.1 The safety precautions specified in of ballast if used.
dure for evaluating the reaction of cellu- the method/procedure are ancillary to the 8.1.3 Begin selected wash cycle. Allow
losic and cellulosic blend fabrics to treat- testing procedures and are not intended to machine to fill to specified water level.
ment with acid cellulase enzymes. Such be all inclusive. 8.1.4 Add 1 g/L nonionic detergent
treatments usually result in improve- 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- 8.1.5 Add 6 g/L sodium acetate buffer.
ments in the hand, drape, fuzz and pill ap- erence applicable safety data sheets, use 8.1.6 Stir well and verify pH of 4.5-
pearance of cellulosic fabrics together safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- 5.0. If too high, add acetic acid. If too
with the removal of linters and immature/ propriate personal protective equipment low, add caustic, 50%.
dead cotton fibers. The agitation in a in handling materials in this standard. 8.1.7 Add acid cellulase enzyme as
home washing machine simulates the ac- 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- shown in Table II. Stir.
tion in rotary drum machines, paddle ma- ers for specific details such as equipment 8.1.8 Add wash load (test specimens
chines and jets. operating instructions and other recom- and ballast, if applicable), distributing
mendations. Consult and follow all appli- evenly around center agitator. Restart
cable health and safety regulations (e.g., wash cycle.
2. Principle OSHA standards and rules). 8.1.9 Stop wash cycle after 12 min. ag-
2.1 This test method utilizes an auto- itation and restart the agitation portion.
matic top-loading washing machine to 6. Apparatus (see 12.2) Do not allow washing machine to drain
simulate the action of rotary drum ma- or rinse. Repeat agitation as needed to
chines, paddle machines, or jets used in 6.1 Standard washing machine (see Ta- reach the total time indicated in Table II.
production type operations (that usually ble I, 12.3). Specimens must be exposed to the en-
operate at low liquor ratios). The concen- 6.2 Standard tumble dryer (see Table zyme bath for sufficient time to ensure
trations of enzyme, buffer, and detergent III, 12.3). treatment.
required in this test method are based on 6.3 Laundering ballast, Type 1 or Type 8.1.10 Allow washing to proceed
grams/liter (g/L), to compensate for the 3 (see Table IV). through the final spin cycle.
difference in liquor ratios. Other cellulase 6.4 Apparatus and conditioning facili- 8.1.11 Separate tangled specimens and
enzymes, e.g., modified acid and neutral ties as needed for AATCC EP5, ASTM ballast pieces, taking care to minimize
types, may be evaluated by this test pro- D3786 (optional, knitted or nonwoven distortion.
cedure; however, the concentration, pH, specimens), and ASTM D5035 (optional, 8.1.12 Place the washed load (test
and time should be followed as recom- woven specimens). Refer to standards for specimens and ballast) in the tumble
mended by the enzyme supplier. details. dryer and set the temperature control to
2.2 Fabric hand is evaluated using 6.5 Reagents generate a maximum exhaust temperature
AATCC EP5. Improvement in fabric 6.5.1 Nonionic detergent; linear alco- of 66°C (see Table III). Allow the dryer
fuzz, pill appearance, and degree of re- hol with 9 moles of ethylene oxide. to run until the load is fully dry. Remove
moval of linters and immature/dead cot- 6.5.2 Buffer AC, sodium acetate. specimens immediately. Avoid over drying.
ton fibers is visually evaluated. Fabric 6.5.3 Acid cellulase enzyme. 8.1.13 In addition to acting on the cel-
strength, if applicable, is determined by lulose of the test specimens, the cellulase
ASTM D3786 or ASTM D5035. enzyme used in this test will also act on
7. Specimens the cellulose content of the ballast fabric.
Hence, ballast used in this method may
3. Referenced Documents 7.1 Use four to eight garments, or four not be reusable to the same extent as in
to eight full-width fabric specimens (0.9 other methods. If ballast sheets are re-
NOTE: Use current versions of all m (1 yd) in length). Seal the cut edges of used, weigh prior to each use to ensure
publications unless otherwise specified. fabric specimens by sewing or some that they have not incurred weight loss
3.1 AATCC EP5 Evaluation Procedure other means. greater than 75% from their original
for Fabric Hand (see 12.1). 7.1.2 Use two to four garment/fabric weight. If they have, replace with new
3.2 AATCC LP1 Laboratory Procedure specimens to run the test cycle with en- ballast.
for Home Laundering: Machine Washing. zyme. 8.2 Control Wash.
3.3 ASTM D3786 Hydraulic or Pneu- 7.1.3 Use the other two to four gar- 8.2.1 Repeat the wash procedure with
matic Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods ment/fabric specimens to run a control the remaining specimens, omitting en-
for Knits. cycle without enzyme, for comparison. zyme. Wash and dry specimens and bal-
3.4 ASTM D5035 Breaking Force and last (if applicable) exactly as for enzyme
Elongation of Textile Fabrics-Strip wash.
Method for Woven Fabrics. 8. Procedure
8.1 Enzyme Wash. 9. Evaluation
4. Terminology 8.1.1 Set washing machine controls to
obtain the parameters listed in Table I. 9.1 Evaluate and compare the hand of
4.1 cellulase enzyme, n.—an enzyme 8.1.2 Load for laundering shall consist tested specimens exposed to acid cellu-
that attacks cellulose. of half the specimens in the sample, plus lase enzyme with that of tested specimens

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

384 AATCC TM191-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Standard Washing Machine Parameters (see 12.3, 12.4) 10.2 Report that the sample was tested
using AATCC TM191-2020.
Cycle Normal
10.3 Report the testing conditions:
Water Level, L (gal)1 45 ± 4 (12 ± 1) 10.3.1 Number of specimens tested.
Agitation Speed (strokes/min.) 86 ± 2 10.3.2 Cellulase enzyme used and con-
Stroke Length Up to 220° centration.
Washing Time, min.2 12 ± 1 (repeat as needed) 10.3.3 Type of ballast (Type 1, Type 3,
Final Spin Speed, rpm 660 ± 15 or none).
Final Spin Time, min. 5±1 10.4 Report the test results:
Wash Temp., °C (°F)1 Very Hot: 60 ± 3 (140 ± 5) 10.4.1 Average hand value for speci-
mens treated in the enzyme wash (see
1
Water Level and Wash Temperature indicated in the table may not correspond with standard machine settings. AATCC EP5).
Verify and adjust as needed to achieve the indicated parameters. 10.4.2 Average hand value for speci-
2
Extended agitation time is required for this test method. Stop and repeat agitation portion as needed mens treated in the control wash (see
before washing machine drains.
AATCC EP5).
10.4.3 Average visual fuzz, pill, linter,
and immature/dead cotton fiber grades for
specimens treated in the enzyme wash.
Table II—Acid Cellulase Enzyme Portions 10.4.4 Average visual fuzz, pill, linter,
Acid Cellulase Enzyme and immature/dead cotton fiber grades
for specimens treated in the control wash.
Agitation Time1 (g/L) g4 Test Specimens 10.4.5 Average strength of specimens
24 min. (2 cycles) (0.2-0.5) 9.0-22.5 100% linen and its blends treated in the enzyme wash, if applicable.
24 min. (2 cycles) (1.0 -2.0) 45-90 100% cotton and its blends2 10.4.6 Average strength of specimens
48 min. (4 cycles)3 (4.0) 180 rayon or lyocell treated in the enzyme wash, if applicable.
10.4.7 If desired, report difference be-
1
Repeat agitation portion of wash cycle as needed before draining and rinsing. tween corresponding results for speci-
2
Use the same enzyme concentration for 100% cotton and cotton/polyester blends to achieve the desired mens treated in enzyme and control
effect on the cotton portion of the fabric. washes.
3
The acid cellulase enzyme attacks these fibers much more slowly; therefore a longer agitation (48 min) is
required. 10.4.8 Describe any modification(s) of
4
Quantity based on a 45 liter water volume. the published standard.

11. Precision and Bias

Table III—Standard Tumble Dryer Parameters (see 12.3) 11.1 Precision. Precision for this test
method has not been established. Until a
Cycle Normal
precision statement is generated for this
Max. Exhaust Temp., °C (°F)1 66 ± 6(155 ± 10) method, use standard statistical tech-
Cool Down Time, min. ≤ 10 niques in making any comparisons of test
results for either within-laboratory or be-
tween-laboratory averages. Analysis of
variance or t-tests may be used to com-
Table IV—Laundering Ballast Parameters
pare averages. See any standard statistical
Type 1 Type 3 text for more information.
Fiber Content 100% cotton 50% cotton/50% polyester ± 3% 11.2 Bias. The evaluation of acid cellu-
Greige Fabric Yarns 16/1 ring spun 16/1 or 30/2 ring spun lase enzyme effect on cellulose fabric can
Greige Fabric Construction 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave 52 × 48 ± 5 yarns/in., plain weave be defined only in terms of a test method.
Finished Fabric Weight 155 ± 10 g/m2 155 ± 10 g/m2
There is no independent method for de-
termining the true value. As a means of
Edges All edges hemmed or over-edged All edges hemmed or over-edged
estimating this property, the method has
Finished Piece Size 920 × 920 ± 30 mm 920 × 920 ± 30 mm
(36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.) (36.0 × 36.0 ± 1 in.)
no known bias.
Finished Piece Weight 130 ± 10 g 130 ± 10 g
12. Notes
12.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
not exposed to acid cellulase enzyme us- 9.3 If desired, determine the strength of 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
ing AATCC EP5. tested specimens exposed to acid cellu- www.aatcc.org.
9.2 Visually compare the appearance lase enzyme and compare with that of 12.2 For potential apparatus, reagents or
of tested specimens exposed to acid tested specimens not exposed to acid cel- materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s
cellulase enzyme with that of tested lulase using ASTM D3786 for knitted or Guide at www.aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides
specimens not exposed to acid cellulase nonwoven specimens or ASTM D5035 its Corporate members the option to list their
enzyme to determine the degree of im- for woven specimens. items and services. AATCC does not qualify,
provement in fabric fuzz, pill appearance, or in any way approve, endorse or certify that
any of the listings meet the specifications in its
and degree of removal of linters and im- standards.
mature/dead cotton fibers. Report visual 10. Report 12.3 For model number(s) of washer(s) and
grades for each property as none, slight, tumble dryers(s) reported to meet the standard
distinct, or considerable difference/im- 10.1 Describe or identify the sample parameters, visit www.aatcc.org/testing/laun-
provement. tested. dering or contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM191-2021 385
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Research Triangle Park NC 27709; +1.919. AATCC laundering methods. Note that this with prescribed AATCC style guidelines.
549.8141; [email protected]. test method must be performed in a traditional 13.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
12.4 Prior to 2021, water temperature and top-loading washing machine. 2013. Editorially revised 2012. Editorially re-
agitation time were the only washing parame- vised and reaffirmed 2009. Editorially revised
ters defined for this test method. The addi- 2008, 2005. Editorially revised and reaffirmed
tional parameters listed in Table I are standard 13. History 2004. Reaffirmed 2003.
conditions for testing purposes, selected to 13.3 Developed in 2002 by AATCC Com-
align with machines specified in other 13.1 Revised in 2021 to clarify and align mittee RR41. Maintained by RA99.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-

386 AATCC TM191-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM192-2022

Test Method for Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc

Lamp Exposure With and Without Wetting
1. Purpose and Scope Precision all Cycles, fastness testing, a change in color of any
1.1 This test method provides a means Colorfastness, ΔE.......... Table VI kind (whether a change in lightness, hue
for determining the weather resistance of Apparatus and Materials, or chroma or any combination of these,
textile materials. Machine Exposure ........ Appendix A discernible by comparing the test speci-
1.2 The test options described below Suggested Machine men with a corresponding untested speci-
are applicable to fibers, yarns and fabrics Calibration and men.)
and products made therefrom, including Maintenance 3.6 irradiation, n.—the time integral
coated fabrics, whether natural, colored, Schedule ........................ Appendix B of irradiance expressed in joules per
finished or unfinished. Test options in- square meter (J/m2).
cluded are: 2. Principle 3.7 laboratory sample, n.—a portion
A—Sunshine-Arc Lamp Exposure of material taken to represent the lot sam-
with Wetting 2.1 Test specimens and the agreed ple, or the original material, and used in
B—Sunshine-Arc Lamp Exposure upon comparison standard(s) are exposed the laboratory as a source of test speci-
without Wetting simultaneously to light source under mens.
1.3 The use of these options does not specified conditions of either relative hu- 3.8 reference fabric, n.—one or more
imply, expressly or otherwise, an acceler- midity or wetting. The amount of expo- blue wool lightfastness standards selected
ated test for a specific application. The sure is determined with respect to a spec- for exposure as a check on a test appara-
degree of correlation between any ified degree of degradation such as color tus and operating conditions.
weather resistance test and the actual exchange, strength loss, etc. The weather 3.9 reference plastic, n.—a clear poly-
posure in use must be determined mathe- resistance of the specimen is evaluated by styrene plastic standard selected for ex-
matically and agreed upon by the con- comparison of a specified degradation of posure as a check on a test apparatus and
tractual parties. exposed portion of the test specimen to operating conditions.
1.4 Test duration and performance the unexposed original material: using NOTE: It has not been verified that
evaluation procedures are covered in ma- one or more of the procedures recom- these reference materials can be used as a
terial specifications agreed upon by the mended in this test method. check on a test cabinet or operating con-
contractual parties. ditions for outdoor exposure tests due to
1.5 This test method contains the follow- 3. Terminology seasonal variations in ultraviolet, temper-
ing sections that assist in the use and im- ature, relative humidity, and time of wet-
plementation of the various options for de- 3.1 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness ness during the uncontrolled portion of
termining the weather resistance of textiles. Standard, n.—one of a group of dyed the test.
Section wool fabrics distributed by AATCC for 3.10 specimen, n.—a specific portion
Principle......................................... 2 use in determining the amount of light of a material or a laboratory sample upon
Terminology................................... 3 exposure of specimens during lightfast- which a test is performed or which is se-
Safety Precautions ......................... 4 ness testing. lected for that purpose.
Uses and Limitations ..................... 5 NOTE: Because of the unstable nature 3.11 spectral energy distribution,
Apparatus and Materials................ 6 of these materials, they are also sensitive n.—the variation of energy due to the
Comparison Standards................... 7 to the heat and moisture conditions which source over the wavelength span of the
Test Specimen Preparation ............ 8 exist before exposure testing, after expo- emitted radiation.
Test Specimen Mounting.............. . 8.1 sure testing, and prior to measurement. 3.12 standard atmosphere for testing
Preparation of Apparatus............... 9 3.2 Black Panel Thermometer, n.—a textiles, n.—air maintained at 21 ± 2°C
Calibration and Verification .......... 10 temperature measuring device, the sens- (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% relative humidity.
Procedure ....................................... 11 ing unit of which is coated with black de- 3.13 tearing strength, n.—the average
Conditioning .................................. 12 signed to absorb most of the radiant en- force required to continue a tear previ-
Evaluation ...................................... 13 ergy encountered in lightfastness testing. ously started in a fabric.
Report ............................................ 14 3.2.1 This device provides an estima- 3.14 weather, n.—climatic conditions
Precision and Bias ......................... 15 tion of the maximum temperature a spec- at a given geographic location, including
Reference ....................................... 16 imen may attain during exposure to artifi- such factors as sunlight, rain, humidity
Notes .............................................. 17 cial light (see 17.1). Any deviation from and temperature.
Specimen Size and the geometry of this device described in 3.15 weather resistance, n.—ability
Preparation .................... Table I 17.1 may have an influence on the mea- of a material to resist degradation of its
Machine Start-Up sured temperature. properties when exposed to climatic con-
Conditions by Cycles.... Table II 3.3 breaking strength, n.—the maxi- ditions.
Specification of test mum force applied to a specimen in a ten-
specimens for the sile test carried to rupture. 4. Safety Precautions
breaking strength .......... Table III 3.4 bursting strength, n.—the force or
Precision all Cycles, pressure required to rupture a textile by NOTE: These safety precautions are
Breaking Strength, N .... Table IV distending it with a force applied at right for information purposes only. The pre-
Specification of test angles to the plane of the fabric, under cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
specimen for the color specified conditions. dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
measurement ................. Table V 3.5 color change, n.—as used in color- sive, It is the user’s responsibility to use

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM192-2022 387
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
safe and proper techniques in handling weathering and sunlight exposure under terms of a change in property value after
materials in this test method. Manufac- conditions where wetting is not a factor. a specific exposure.
turers MUST be consulted on specific de- 5.4 In interpreting the results of these 5.9 Variations in results may be ex-
tails such as material safety data sheets test options, it should be remembered that pected when operating conditions are
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- resistance to degradation under simulated varied within the accepted limits of this
tions. All OSHA standards and rules sunlight exposure is dependent upon such method. Therefore, no reference shall be
must also be consulted and followed. factors as: made to results from the use of this
4.1 Do not operate the test equipment 5.4.1 The inherent properties of the method unless accompanied by a report
until the manufacturer’s instructions have material, its physical state, mass and detailing the specific operating condi-
been read and understood. It is the opera- compactness. tions and locations in conformance with
tor’s responsibility to conform to the man- 5.4.2 Spectral energy distribution and Section 14.
ufacturer’s directions for safe operation. density of the radiant flux (from artificial 5.10 In case of a dispute arising from
4.2 The test equipment contains high source). differences in reported test results when
intensity light source. The door of the test 5.4.3 The temperature and relative hu- using this test method for acceptance test-
chamber must be kept closed when the midity of the air about the textile speci- ing of commercial shipments, the pur-
equipment is in operation. men during exposure. chaser and the supplier should conduct
4.3 Before servicing light sources, al- 5.4.4 The effect of leaching or degra- comparative tests to determine if there is
low 30 min for cool-down after lamp op- dation of additive products, including fi- a statistical bias between their laborato-
eration is terminated. ber stabilizers, by rain or water sprays. ries. Statistical analysis is recommended
4.4 When servicing the test equipment, 5.4.5 Atmospheric contaminants. for the investigation of bias. As a mini-
shut off both the off switch on the front 5.4.6 The action of additive finishes mum, the two parties should take a group
panel and the main power disconnect and colorants including spectral absorp- of test specimens that are as homoge-
switch. When equipped, ensure that the tion characteristics. neous as possible and that are from a lot
main power indicator light on the ma- 5.4.7 Where applicable, the action of of material of the type in question. Test
chine front panel goes out. residual laundry or dry cleaning chemi- specimens should then be randomly as-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
4.5 Daylight exposure of the skin and cals. signed in equal numbers to each labora-
eyes for prolonged periods may be haz- 5.5 The relative rates of degradation of tory for testing. The average results from
ardous and therefore caution should be different textile materials do not neces- the two laboratories should be compared
employed to protect these areas. Do not sarily change to the same degree as those using the appropriate Student’s t-test and
look directly at the sun under any circum- factors themselves change. Consequently, an acceptable probability level chosen by
stances. the relative durability of textile and re- the two parties before testing is begun. If
4.6 Good laboratory practices should lated materials under the varying condi- a bias is found and corrected or the pur-
be followed. Wear prescribed safety tions of use cannot be predicted with cer- chaser and the supplier must agree to in-
glasses in all laboratory areas. tainty with any one test. Therefore, it is terpret future test results with consider-
common practice to investigate the dura- ation for the known bias.
5. Uses and Limitation
bility of materials by exposure to the va-
riety of conditions under which they can
5.1 Not all materials are affected be used to arrive at a full understanding 6. Apparatus and Materials (see 17.2)
equally by the same light source and en- of the performance that can be expected 6.1 If possible, install the test apparatus
vironment. Results obtained by the use of from them. in a room where temperature and relative
any one test option may not be represen- 5.6 Having once established the ac- humidity are controlled to minimize the
tative of those of any other test option or ceptability of a given material, subse- effects of air supply variations.
any end-use application has been estab- quent lots of it can be rated by direct 6.2 Sunshine-arc type exposure appa-
lished between contractual parties. comparison between the test specimen ratus with means of providing water
5.2 Radiation emitted by the open and the initially accepted material using sprayed to the specimen (see Appendix A
flame carbon arc contains significant lev- the agreed upon option(s) provided in this and 17.3).
els of very short wavelength UV (less test method. Although these options lead 6.3 Sunshine-arc type exposure appa-
than 260 nm) and must be filtered. None to results that are in general agreement
ratus without providing water sprayed to
of the filter types used changes the spec- for the majority of textiles, they do not
the specimen (see Appendix A and 17.3).
tral power distribution of the open flame lead to the same result for all textiles.
carbon arc to make it match daylight in When significantly different levels of re-
the long wavelength UV or the visible sistance to degradation are found be- 7. Comparison Standards
light regions of the spectrum. Although tween the natural sunlight and weather
these filters are specified in many tests methods and their artificial (laboratory) 7.1 Standards for comparison must be
because of historical precedent, they counterparts, the results obtained from determined and agreed upon by the con-
transmit significant energy below 300 nm direct sunlight and the elements of the tractual parties. They can be made of any
(the typical cut-on wavelength for terres- weather will be regarded as the level of suitable textile material where a history
trial sunlight) and may result in aging durability of the particular material for of strength degradation or color change
processes not occurring outdoors. the purposes of intended end use. rates are known, depending upon individ-
5.3 Option A is intended for use in 5.7 When using this test method, the ual test needs. They must be exposed si-
evaluating the resistance to degradation test option selected should incorporate multaneously with the test specimen to be
of a textile and related material, including light, humidity, wetting and temperature investigated. The intent of these stan-
coated fabrics, when subjected to simu- effects based upon historical data and ex- dards is to demonstrate uniformity be-
lated weathering including wetting, and perience. The test option selected should tween separate machine exposures or out-
radiant energy factors, and are further in- also reflect expected end-use conditions door test locations. When test data of the
tended to check the level of durability associated with the material to be tested. exposed standards differ by more than
represented in a material specification. 5.8 When using this test method, use a 10% from the known data, the test appa-
Option B is intended for use in evaluating standard of comparison. This comparison ratus machine malfunction, then the test
the resistance to degradation due to material should have a known history in standard should be questioned and re-

388 AATCC TM192-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
evaluated. Test data obtained with ques- 8.1.5 When required to prevent ravel- the start of each test (see 17.7 and Appen-
tionable standards must be treated with ing, the specimens may be edged using a dix B).
caution and resolution provided with flexible epoxy resin or similar material, 9.2 Check to see that the machine has
quantitative analysis. or they may be edged by sewing, pinking been calibrated and maintained within the
7.2 When colorfastness is the sole or fusing. manufacturer’s recommended calibra-
evaluation criterion, Blue Wool Stan- 8.1.6 Label each specimen. Replicant tion schedule interval.
dards, as defined in AATCC Test Method specimens are preferred to provide a 9.3 Turn off all rack and specimen
(TM) 16.2, Colorfastness to Light: Car- record of the changes encountered at dif- spray units.
bon-Arc (see 16.2.1 of TM192), have ferent radiant exposure levels. Retain an 9.4 Set machine operating conditions
been found acceptable for exposures unexposed specimen for comparison to according to Table II and the specified
without water spray (see 17.4). However, the exposed specimen. option.
caution should be employed since the 8.2 Specimen Mounting. 9.5 Program the test apparatus to
rate of fade of the Blue Wool Standards 8.2.1 Mount the specimens on frames achieve the specified cycle. Fill the speci-
by any one method may not agree with which are installed in the test chamber men rack with blank or dummy speci-
other methods. without backing, unless otherwise specimens and the black panel thermometer
fied (see 17.9). unit. This simulated airflow in the test
8. Test Specimen Preparation and 8.2.2 Fabrics. Secure the specimens to chamber during the test exposure and
Mounting the frames to hold them smoothly without should not include the actual test speci-
curling of the edges. Fabrics may be mens. Support the black panel thermome-
8.1 Specimen Preparation. stitched to a gauze backing. For color- ter unit in the specimen drum or rack in
8.1.1 Prepare specimens for the speci- fastness determinations, mount the speci- the same manner as the test specimen
fied test procedures of at least the size mens in frames as directed in TM16.2. frames. When exterior indicators are not
given in Table I. When applicable, cut available, read the black panel thermom-
8.2.3 Yarns. Wind yams on frames.
specimens with the longer direction par- eter unit through the window in the test
Only that portion of the yarns directly
allel to the warp or filling direction as re- chamber door. Operate and control the
facing the radiant energy is tested for test apparatus as specified in Table II and
quired in a material specification or con- breaking strength. Single strand or multi-
tract order. further defined by the manufacturer. Op-
ple strand testing may be performed. erate the test apparatus in this mode and
8.1.2 Prepare specimens as required to When multiple strand testing may be per-
meet the needs of the applicable test adjust the chamber dry and wet bulb tem-
formed, the yarns are wound on the frame peratures, or chamber thermometer and
method given in Table I (see 17.5, 17.6, closely packed to 2.5 cm (1.0 in.) width.
17.7 and 17.8). hygrometer, to provide the required black
The control specimens must contain the panel temperature and relative humidity.
8.1.3 These dimensions are given as a same number of strands as the specimen
general guide and in most cases will be 9.6 Shut off the test apparatus after op-
subjected to exposure. After the exposure erating at the controlled conditions for a
adequate to perform the required evalua- has been completed and before the yarns
tion. Certain materials may exhibit a di- minimum of 24 h. Remove the blank or
are removed from the frame for testing, dummy specimens from the specimen
mensional change with respect to the ex- those yarns facing the light source are rack.
posure. The test equipment manufacturer, bound together using 2.0 cm (0.75 in.)
physical test apparatus and number of wide masking or other suitable tape to
specimens required will affect the needed 10. Calibration and Verification
maintain the closely packed arrange-
specimen size. In any event, the test pro- ments on the exposure frame. 10.1 Maintain and calibrate the appara-
cedures given in Table I should be re- tus described in the manufacturer’s in-
viewed to ensure sufficient specimens are 9. Preparation of Test Apparatus Machine structions.
exposed for individual needs. Exposure
8.1.4 Unless otherwise specified, test 11. Procedure
specimens shall be a maximum thickness 9.1 Prior to running a new set of condi-
of 25 mm (1 in.). For specimens over 25 tions, operate the machine for 24 h to en- 11.1 Mount the framed test specimens
mm (1 in.) thick, formed or configured sure conformance to the specified operat- on the specimen rack. Make sure that all
specimens, and large components, spe- ing conditions as described in Table II. materials are adequately supported, both
cific instructions must be agreed upon be- Verify the test apparatus temperature and top and bottom, in proper alignment. Any
tween the purchaser and the supplier. relative humidity monitoring sensors at displacement of the material toward or
away from the source, even by a small
distance, may lead to variation between
specimens. The specimen rack must be
Table I—Specimen Size and Preparation filled: blank or dummy specimens are
Test Specimen used when the number of specimens be-
Property Method Size ing tested is insufficient to fill the speci-
Breaking Strength: men rack. When alternate light and dark
Strip Test ASTM D5034 5 × 20 cm (2 × 8 in.) cycles are required, begin exposure at the
Grab Test ASTM D5035 13 × 28 cm (5 × 7 in.) start of the light cycle.
Single Strand ASTM D2256 15 cm (6 in.) 11.2 In the case of textile fabrics, un-
Bursting Strength: less otherwise specified, ensure that the
Woven Fabric ASTM D3786 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.) side normally used as the face is directly
Nonwoven Fabric ASTM D3786 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.) exposed to the radiant source.
Knit Fabric ASTM D3787 15 × 15 cm (6 × 6 in.) 11.3 Check at regular intervals to en-
Test Strength: sure the apparatus provides the desig-
Elmendorf ASTM D1424 10 × 13 cm (4 × 5 in.) nated temperatures and relative humidity.
Trapezoid ASTM D1117 10 × 18 cm (4 × 7 in.) When available, monitor exposure test
Colorfastness to Light: AATCC TM16.2 3 × 6 cm (1.25 × 2.4 in.) chamber conditions with suitable record-
Carbon-Arc ers. If necessary, readjust the controls to

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM192-2022 389
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table II—Machine Start-Up Conditions by Cycle strength loss or percent strength retained
(breaking, tearing, or bursting as appro-
Cycle priate) of the material after the prescribed
Component 1 2 3 4 exposure time period.
Cycle Duration, min 120 120 Continuous 120 13.1.2 Residual Strength. Record the
Light Only, min 90 60 Continuous 102 initial and final strength values along
Dark Only, min 0 60 0 0 with all other pertinent data as above.
Light & Water Spray, min 30 0 0 18
13.1.3 Colorfastness. Classify the col-
orfastness of the material as directed in
Black Panel Temperature 77 ± 3°C 77 ± 3°C 77 ± 3°C 63 ± 3°C
(170 ± 5°F) (170 ± 5°F) (170 ± 5°F) (145 ± 5°F) TM16.1, Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor
Relative Humidity, %
(see 17.11).
Light Cycle 70 ± 5 70 ± 5 27 ± 3 50 ± 5 13.2 In Terms of an Agreed Upon
Specimen Rack, rpm 1 Comparison Sample or Standard. Satis-
Light Source Sunshine Open-Flame
factory: As durable as or more durable
than the comparison sample at the
Carbon Type Copper Clad
amount of radiant exposures and/or expo-
Voltage
sure time period prescribed in the mate-
Across Arc 50 V rial standard. Unsatisfactory: Less dura-
Power In 200 V ble than the comparison sample at the
Ampere 60 A amount of radiant exposure and/or expo-
Water Requirements (Input) sure time period prescribed in the mate-
Type Demineralized, Distilled, or Reverse Osmosis rial standard.
Solid, ppm One or Less 13.3 For the purpose of defining the
PH 7±1 relative durability of a test material to an
Temperature Ambient 16 ± 5°C (61 ± 9°F) agreed upon comparison standard an in-
dex, SnX, can be defined as the ratio of
the percent residual strength in the test
specimen compared to be as resistant to
maintain the specified test conditions and tinually until the carbons are consumed. degradation as the standard. With the in-
verify calibrations of the test apparatus. Avoid unnecessary delays when carbons dex a specimen is considered to be as re-
11.4 Install the appropriate cycle for are changed and the exposure period con- sistant to degradation as the standard
the agreed upon operating cycle using an tinued, as such delays may contribute to when the SnX value is 1; more durable
electronic controller or mechanical de- variations in results or lead to errors. when the SnX index exceeds 1; less dura-
vice to program periods with or without 11.11 Conduct physical test using the ble when the SnX index is less than 1.
radiation. test methods listed in Section 16, as ap- NOTE: An index of this nature has
11.5 For Option A, ensure that the wa- plicable (see 17.10). particular value when recording the rela-
ter from the specimen spray strikes the test 11.12 Average the data for the various tive durability of a series of materials to a
specimens in the form of a fine spray replicates, or handle statistically as ap- common standard and can be actually
equally distributed over the test speci- propriate, and record a significant value more useful in research than in the rou-
mens. of breaking, tearing, or bursting strength tine assessment of the durability of mate-
11.6 For Option B, ensure that speci- retention and/or colorfastness after expo- rials for purpose of commerce.
men water sprays are turned off. sure in relation to original strength or
11.7 Ensure the current, voltage and color, as applicable. It is appropriate to
water supply during the test meet the re- 14. Report
record the percent elongation characteris-
quirements of Table II. Ensure the test cy- tics of the unexposed controls and ex- 14.1 Use the following guide and re-
cle provides the designated black panel posed specimens at rupture or at some port all applicable information:
temperature and relative humidity. prescribed point in the force-elongation 14.2 Report any deviation from this
11.8 To ensure uniform total irradiation curve as this is frequently significant sup- test method or the performance of the
over the specimen surface, reposition plementary information. comparison standard.
specimens vertically in a sequence which 14.3 Report all information in 14.1 for
will provide each specimen equivalent 12. Conditioning the same conditions that the samples and
exposure periods in each location. When reference materials are exposed.
the exposure interval does not exceed 24 12.1 After the test exposure is com- 14.4 Report all applicable properties
h, each specimen should be located equi- pleted, remove the test specimens and evaluated in Section 13.
distant from the horizontal axis of the arc. control specimens from exposure. Condi- 14.5 Report the direction of the test if
Unless otherwise specified, rotate the test tion in a dark room at standard conditions not in warp direction.
specimens after each 250 h of exposure. for testing textiles, as directed in ASTM
11.9 In some laboratories, the test ap- D1776, Standard Practice for Condition- 15. Precision and Bias
paratus is operated on a time cycle of ing and Testing Textiles, [65 ± 5% RH
continuous five days exposure followed and 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F)] for a minimum 15.1 Interlaboratory Test Data, Break-
by two days of rest (machine off) until of 4 h before evaluation. ing Strength Determination. The sunshine
the designated period of exposure is com- carbon-arc test was convened by Suga
pleted. This provides for operation during 13. Evaluation Weathering Technology Foundation, and
weekdays followed by non-operation on the exposure was carried out at five labo-
weekends, which is a normal schedule for 13.1 Classify the durability or resis- ratories in Japan in 2000 and 2001.
many laboratories. In some laboratories, tance to degradation of the material with The randomly drawn samples of four
the test apparatus is operated on a contin- respect to the standard of comparison by test fabrics and three specimens of each
uous schedule. In any event, the operat- one of the following: were exposed at the laboratories accord-
ing schedule must be reported. 13.1.1 Percent Strength Retained or ing to TM111, Weather Resistance of
11.10 Operate the test apparatus con- Percent Strength Loss. Record percent Textiles: Exposure to Daylight and
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

390 AATCC TM192-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Exposure Option Used (A or B) ________________________________________________________________
Operators Name ________________________________________ Date ______________________________
Sample Identification ________________________________________________________________________
Material exposed: Face _____________________________ Back ______________________________
Colorfastness to Light Rating ________________________________________________________________
Lightfastness Classification: _________________________ No ________________________________
Test Specimen Compared To: Masked Portion_________________________________________________
Unmasked Portion_______________________________________________
Unexposed Original_____________________________________________
Colorfastness to Light Rating Determined By:
Gray Scale For Color Change____________________________________
Instrumentally, Name Type______________________________________
Classification Method: _______________________________________________________________________
Comparison Standard: _________________________________________________________________________
Temperature Controlled: By Ambient ________________ °C
By Black Panel ____________ °C
By Black Standard _________ °C
Exposure Controlled: By AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards _________________________
By Radiant Energy __________________________________________________
Other ______________________________________________________________
Total Radiant Energy _________________________________________________________________________
Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________ Model number ______________________
Specimen Rack: _______ Inclined _______ 1-Tier _______ 3-Tier _______ Horizontal
Serial Number _________________________________________ Manufacturer’s Name _______________
Type of Water Supply _________________________________________________________________________
Option Employed _______________________________________ Elapsed Exposure Time _____________
Mounting Procedure: Backed _________________________ Unbacked __________________________
Sample Rotation Schedule ______________________________ Relative Humidity % _______________

Weather. All the machine start up condi- was determined as directed in ASTM Change Determinations. For the same In-
tions Cycle 1 to 4 in TM111 were carried D5035, Test Method for Breaking terlaboratory program described above,
out. These conditions by Cycle are as in Strength and Elongation of Textile Fab- color measurements were made prior to
TM111 and listed in Table III. And the rics (Strip method), using a constant rate and after the sunshine carbon arc expo-
specifications of the four test fabrics are of extension tensile tester in two direc- sure. Color change determinations were
in Table IV. tions. determined as directed in AATCC Evalu-
Each laboratory made the same test Mean value, repeatability standard de- ation Procedure (EP) 6, Instrument Color
three times. The running hours of these viation Sr, 95% repeatability limit (in Measurement. The specifications of the
tests were 230 h for all four Cycles. The measurement units) r, repeatability coef- four test fabrics are in Table V. The run-
test of the same cycle condition was ficient of variation (in percent) (CV%r), ning hours for the color measurement
repeated every 230 h. So, these within- reproducibility standard deviation SR, tests were 80 h for all four cycles.
laboratory and between-laboratory pre- 95% reproducibility limit (in measure- Mean value, repeatability standard de-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

cision programs were performed in short- ment units) R, and reproducibility coeffi- viation Sr, 95% repeatability limit (in
term repeats. cient of variation (in percent) (CV%R) measurement units) r, repeatability coef-
All the samples exposed were gathered are used as specified in ASTM E177, ficient of variation (in percent) CV%r, re-
to Suga Weathering Technology Founda- Standard Practice for Use of the Terms producibility standard deviation SR, 95%
tion, Technical committee, and measured Precision and Bias in ASTM Test Meth- reproducibility limit (in measurement
by the same machine. ods, and listed in Table IV. units) R, and reproducibility coefficient
The breaking strength of all specimens 15.2 Interlaboratory Test Data, Color of variation (in percent) CV%R are used

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM192-2022 391
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table III—Specification of Test Specimens for the Breaking Strength
Textile Dyestuff Color Index Color
A Acrylic Warp Aizen Cation Blue K-GLH Blended Blue
Woof
B Cotton Warp Remazol Brill. Orange 3R C.I. Reactive Orange 16 Orange
Woof
C Wool Warp Kayanol Milling Brown 4GW C.I. Acid Brown 13 Brown
Woof
D Polyamide (Nylon) Warp Kayanol Milling Red BW C.I. Acid Red 138 Red
Woof

Table IV—Precision All Cycles Breaking Strength, N

Within a Lab Between Labs
Mean Level
Sample Orientation Test (N) Sr r CV%r SR R CV%R
warp cycle 1 337.26 8.43 23.60 7.00 8.43 23.61 7.00
cycle 2 336.37 8.04 22.50 6.69 8.27 23.16 6.88
cycle 3 333.58 8.79 24.61 7.38 9.52 26.66 7.99
cycle 4 342.65 6.14 17.19 5.02 6.14 17.19 5.02
Acrylic
woof cycle 1 210.41 9.52 26.67 12.68 11.33 31.72 15.08
cycle 2 215.06 6.90 19.33 8.99 6.90 19.32 8.98
cycle 3 212.57 8.75 24.50 11.53 8.75 24.50 11.53
cycle 4 213.26 8.59 24.05 11.28 8.99 25.17 11.80
warp cycle 1 276.30 16.68 46.72 16.91 16.68 46.70 16.90
cycle 2 370.62 11.70 32.75 8.84 23.36 65.41 17.65
cycle 3 307.00 10.52 29.47 9.60 16.65 46.62 15.19
cycle 4 349.80 12.93 36.20 10.35 20.88 58.46 16.71
Cotton
woof cycle 1 132.86 11.42 31.97 24.06 18.75 52.51 39.52
cycle 2 162.40 10.30 28.83 17.75 15.55 43.54 26.81
cycle 3 162.69 10.55 29.54 18.16 15.10 42.28 25.99
cycle 4 170.81 11.16 31.25 18.30 14.95 41.86 24.51
warp cycle 1 370.36 24.31 68.08 18.38 24.31 68.07 18.38
cycle 2 380.37 17.11 47.91 12.60 25.62 71.74 18.86
cycle 3 326.63 11.88 33.27 10.19 21.31 59.67 18.27
cycle 4 410.40 13.31 37.27 9.08 13.31 37.27 9.08
Wool
woof cycle 1 323.18 19.82 55.50 17.17 26.03 72.88 22.55
cycle 2 295.08 11.18 31.31 10.61 17.17 48.08 16.29
cycle 3 244.79 11.23 31.44 12.85 12.73 35.64 14.56
cycle 4 394.35 22.06 61.76 15.66 27.46 76.89 19.50
warp cycle 1 59.14 4.40 12.32 20.84 4.40 12.32 20.83
cycle 2 104.79 5.14 14.39 13.73 7.73 21.64 20.65
cycle 3 51.24 4.64 13.00 25.37 4.64 12.99 25.36
cycle 4 99.40 5.18 14.50 14.59 5.18 14.50 14.59
Polyamid
woof cycle 1 79.52 5.44 15.22 19.14 6.27 17.56 22.08
cycle 2 122.46 5.28 14.80 12.08 8.18 22.90 18.70
cycle 3 73.20 4.15 11.62 15.88 4.15 11.62 15.87
cycle 4 114.28 7.07 19.80 17.33 8.49 23.77 20.80
warp cycle 1 260.76 13.46 37.68 14.45 13.46 37.68 14.45
cycle 2 298.04 10.50 29.39 9.86 16.25 45.49 15.26
cycle 3 254.61 8.96 25.09 9.85 13.03 36.48 14.33
Pooled or cycle 4 300.56 9.39 26.29 8.75 11.38 31.86 10.60
Average woof cycle 1 186.49 11.55 32.34 17.34 15.60 43.67 23.42
values
cycle 2 198.75 8.42 23.57 11.86 11.95 33.46 16.84
cycle 3 173.31 8.67 24.28 14.01 10.18 28.51 16.45
cycle 4 223.17 12.22 34.22 15.33 14.97 41.92 18.78

as specified in ASTM E177 and listed in was 9.77%. Two single measurements ence ΔE, has been established. The repro-
Table VI. performed in the same laboratory that dif- ducibility coefficient of variation CV%R
15.3 Precision. 95% repeatability limit fer by more than 9.77% (expressed as of the color difference ΔE of Acrylic fab-
r and repeatability coefficient of variation percentage of their color difference, ΔE) ric tested by Cycle 1, was 10.70%. Two
CV%r of the breaking strength and color must be considered suspect, i.e., having single measurements performed in sepa-
difference ΔE has been established. For arisen from different sample population. rate laboratories that differ by more than
example, the repeatability coefficient of 95% reproducibility limit R and repro- 10.70% (expressed as a percentage of
variation CV%r of the color difference ducibility coefficient of variation CV%R their average value) must be considered
ΔE of Acrylic fabric tested by Cycle 1 of the breaking strength and color differ- as suspect, i.e., having come from differ-

392 AATCC TM192-2022

Table VI—Precision All Cycles Colorfastness, ΔE

Within a Lab Between Labs
Sample Test Mean Level Sr r CV%r SR R CV%R
cycle 1 6.12 0.21 0.60 9.77 0.23 0.65 10.70
cycle 2 2.52 0.11 0.31 12.29 0.11 0.31 12.29
Acryl
cycle 3 3.37 0.17 0.48 14.12 0.19 0.54 15.99
cycle 4 4.97 0.15 0.43 8.72 0.25 0.69 13.87
cycle 1 3.90 0.19 0.53 13.55 0.19 0.53 13.72
cycle 2 2.74 0.10 0.27 9.83 0.18 0.50 18.20
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Polyester
cycle 3 3.77 0.13 0.37 9.68 0.22 0.61 16.03
cycle 4 2.55 0.12 0.34 13.25 0.32 0.91 35.47
cycle 1 6.20 0.27 0.75 12.12 1.24 3.48 56.19
cycle 2 3.12 0.14 0.39 12.57 0.84 2.36 75.48
Polyamid
cycle 3 5.15 0.09 0.24 4.71 0.72 2.02 39.15
cycle 4 4.08 0.15 0.43 10.57 0.52 1.45 35.51
cycle 1 32.73 1.23 3.45 10.53 1.79 5.00 15.28
cycle 2 15.14 0.57 1.59 10.47 1.04 2.92 19.29
Wool
cycle 3 18.92 0.25 0.70 3.68 0.94 2.62 13.86
cycle 4 27.06 0.47 1.31 4.82 1.07 3.00 11.08
cycle 1 12.24 0.48 1.33 10.88 0.86 2.42 19.76
Pooled or cycle 2 5.88 0.23 0.64 10.87 0.54 1.52 25.88
Average cycle 3 7.80 0.16 0.44 5.70 0.52 1.45 18.52
values
cycle 4 9.67 0.22 0.63 6.49 0.54 1.51 15.63

ent sample population. 16.1.9 G152, Standard Practice for Op- ceive the same exposure as the test specimen.
erating Open Flame Carbon-Arc Light Black Panel Thermometers shall consist of a
15.4 Bias. An accepted reference value metal panel at least 70 × 150 mm whose tem-
is not available; therefore, the bias cannot Apparatus for Exposure of Nonmetallic
Materials. perature is measured with a thermometer or
be established. thermocouple whose sensitive portion is lo-
16.1.10 D2905, Number of Specimens cated in the center of and in good thermal con-
16. References Required to Determine the Average Qual- tact with the panel. The side of the panel
ity of a Textile. facing the light source shall be black with a
16.1 ASTM Standards (see 17. 12). 16.1.11 D1776, Standard Practice for reflectance of less than 10% throughout the
16.1.1 D5034, Test Method for Break- Conditioning and Testing Textiles. spectrum of sunshine lamp reaching the speci-
ing Strength and Elongation of Textile 16.1.12 G151, Standard Practice for men; the side of the panel not facing the light
Fabrics (Grab Test). Exposing Non-Metallic Materials in Ac- source shall be open to the atmosphere within
16.1.2 D5035, Test Method for Break- celerated Test Devices that use Labora- the exposure chamber.
ing Strength and Elongation of Textile 17.2 For potential equipment information
tory Light Sources. pertaining to this test method, please visit the
Fabrics (Strip Test). 16.2 AATCC Test Methods (see online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.
16.1.3 D2256, Test Method for Tensile 17.4). aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility
Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand 16.2.1 TM16.2, Colorfastness to Light: of listing equipment and materials sold by its
Method. Carbon-Arc. Corporate members, but AATCC does not
16.1.4 D3787, Test Method for Burst- 16.2.2 EP1, Gray Scale for Color qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
ing Strength of Knitted Goods. Change. tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
16.1.5 D3786, Test Method for Hy- 16.3 SAE Test Methods (see 17.14). als meets the requirements in its test methods.
draulic Bursting Strength of Knitted 16.3.1 J1545, Instrumental Color Dif-
17.3 Refer to ASTM G151 and G152 for
Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics. guidance on the design and performance re-
ference Measurement for Exterior Fin- quirements for instruments specified in this
16.1.6 D1424, Test Method for Tear ishes, Textiles, and Colored Trim.
Resistance of Woven Fabrics by Falling method (see 16.1).
16.4 ISO Test Methods (see 17.13). 17.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus.
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
16.1.7 D1117, Methods of Testing +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
Nonwoven Fabrics, Trapezoid Tear Pro- 17. Notes
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
cedure. 17.1 For Black Panel Thermometers. Test- 17.5 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as
16.1.8 G24, Standard Practice for Con- ing temperature is measured and regulated by when specified in an applicable material spec-
ducting Exposures to Daylight Filtered a Black Panel Thermometer unit mounted on ification, take a number of specimens such
through Glass the specimen rack to permit the face of it to re- that the user may expect at the 95% probabil-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM192-2022 393
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
ity level that the test result is not more than should be noted in the report when it occurs. ature, but an on-off flow of room temper-
5.0% of the average above the true average of 17.12 Available from ASTM International, ature air is permissible.
the lot. Determine the number of specimens 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA A1.5 Water supply, demineralized, dis-
using standard deviation with one-sided limits 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500: fax: +1.610.832.
as directed in ASTM D2905 (see 16.1.10). 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
tilled or reverse osmosis. Water transport
17.6 Pile fabrics, such as carpets, which 17.13 Available from American National lines must be constructed of stainless
have fibers that may shift position, or texture Standard Institute Inc., 11 West 42nd St., New steel or other acceptable materials that
which may make evaluations in small areas York 10036; tel: +1.212.642.4900; fax: +1. will not provide contamination to the wa-
difficult should be tested with an exposed area 212.302.1286; web site: www.ansi.org. ter. Provision must be made to maintain
of not less than approximately 40.0 mm (1.6 17.14 Available from Society of Automo- water temperature entering the test cham-
in.) × 50.0 mm (2.0 in.). Exposed sufficient tive Engineers International, 400 Common-
size or multiple specimens to include all col- ber at 16 ± 5°C (60 ± 9°F).
wealth Dr., Warrendale PA 10596-0001; tel:
ors in the sample. +1.412.776.4841; web site: www.sae.org.
17.7 In some cases high humidity, in com-
bination with atmospheric contaminants, has Appendix B
18 History Suggested Machine Calibration
been found to produce property changes as
great as those produced by light. When re- 18.1 Revised in 2022 for clarity and to add and Maintenance Schedule
quested, prepare a duplicate set of test speci- the History Section.
mens and standards and expose 18.2 Editorially revised 2016; reaffirmed
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions
simultaneously in another cabinet or rack of 2013;revised in 2009; editorially revised for suggested calibration and mainte-
the same type used in the light exposures but 2008, 2007; reaffirmed 2005, 2005. nance schedule.
covered with an opaque material to exclude 18.3 Developed in 2003 by AATCC Com-
the light. Because there is a combined effect of mittee RR64; jurisdiction transferred in 2007
light, temperature, humidity and atmospheric to Committee RA50. B1. Component Replacement
contaminants, it cannot be assumed that a
comparison between specimens exposed in the B1.1 Carbons. Change according to
covered cabinet and in the uncovered cabinet Appendix A manufacturer’s instructions.
under glass will permit separating the effects Apparatus and Materials— B1.2 Lamp Assembly. Replace when
produced by light only. However, a compari- worn or excessively pitted.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Machine Exposure
son of the two sets of specimens with a piece
of the original which has not been an exposure
B1.3 UV Filters. Replace filters after
cabinet will indicate whether a material is sen- A1. Sunshine Carbon Arc Lamp Exposure 2000 h of use or when pronounced dis-
sitive to moisture and atmospheric contami- Apparatus-Option A and B coloration or milkiness develops, which-
nants. This may also help to explain why ever occurs first. Filters should be re-
different results may be obtained with the A1.1 Sunshine arc type artificial, placed on a rotating replacement
same amount of radiant energy in daylight ex- weathering apparatus consisting of a ver- schedule to provide more uniformity over
posures made at different times and at differ- tical carbon open-flame arc composed of long periods of exposure according to
ent locations. less than four sets of copper clad carbons
17.8 In general, the warp direction is used, manufacturer’s instructions.
mounted at the center of a vertical shell.
but the filling direction may be used to com- B1.4 Black Panel Sensor. When bare
The arc is enclosed by extended UV fil-
plete or in place of the warp direction when ters according to ASTM G152. A lamp metal is observed or surface luster can no
specified. Warp yarns sometimes are protected longer be maintained (see 17.1).
from the radiation due to fabric structure. exhaustion unit provides for flow of air
When the filling direction is used, it must be around the arc and for removal of by-
reported. products of combustion of the arc. A B2. Cleaning
17.9 Specimen frames must be made of blower unit provides a flow of air over
stainless steel or suitably coated steel to avoid the specimens and through the test cham- B2.1 UV Filters. Wash filters detergent
contaminating the specimens with metallic ber. Instrumentation provides control of and water.
impurities that might catalyze or inhibit the irradiation, wetting, relative humidity, air B2.2 Black Panel Sensor. Minimum is
degradation. When specimens are fastened temperature and black panel temperature weekly.
with staples, they should be of the nonferrous is provided. A detailed description of the B2.3 Test chamber. When discolora-
type over-coated to avoid contamination of the
specimen by corrosion products. Metal frames
test apparatus is provided in ASTM tion or mineral deposits are observed,
must have a dull finish and be designed to G152, Standard Practice for Operating minimum is once per month. Use stain-
avoid reflectance that could influence the per- Open Flame Carbon-Arc Light Apparatus less steel cleaning agent that contains NO
formance of the material. Frames shall con- for Exposure of Nonmetallic Materials. chloride, flush with deionized water or
form to the curvature of the specimen rack. A1.2 For Option A, ensure that the wa- equivalent.
The size of the frame is determined by the ter spray strikes the test samples as a fine B2.4 Conditioning Chamber. Mini-
type specimens required for individual prop- spray equally distributed over the surface
erty requirements. mum is once per month. Drain and flush
exposed to the radiation. out sediment with deionized water or
17.10 Under certain conditions, by agree- A1.3 Vaporizing units add moisture to
ment between principals to a transaction, tear- equivalent.
ing strength of the material can be used in lieu
the air as it passes through the condition- B2.5 Lamp Assembly. Brush loose car-
of, or to complement, the breaking or bursting ing chamber prior to its entry into the test
bon residue according to manufacturer’s
strength. The material specification may fur- chamber. Relative humidity of the air in
the test chamber is determined from read- instructions.
ther define the use of wet breaking, tearing, or
bursting strength tests in lieu of or to comple- ings of wet and dry bulb thermometers,
ment those tests done under standard textile either indicating or recording, whose B3. Verification of Operation
testing conditions. Such conditions of test sensing portion is located in the air flow
shall be reported along with the data. at its point of exit from the test chamber. B3.1 Controls. Inspect daily to ensure
17.11 A difference in color change proper- A1.4 Testing temperature is measured proper set points.
ties between original material and the covered B3.2 Calibration. Minimum is once per
portion of the exposed specimen indicated that
and regulated on the basis of a black-
panel thermometer unit. Control of the week. Use procedures detailed in the
the textile has been affected by some agent
other than light, such as heat or a reactive has black-panel temperature is accomplished manufacturer’s instructions.
in the atmosphere. Although the exact cause preferably by a continuous flow of air B3.4 Records. Maintain weekly records
difference in color may not be known, it over the specimen at a controlled temper- of operating set point and calibrations.

394 AATCC TM192-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM193-2007e4(2017)e2

Test Method for Aqueous Liquid Repellency:

Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance
Developed in 2004 by AATCC Commit- pervious gloves when handling test liq- (8 × 16 in.). Specimens from sample to
tee RA56; reaffirmed and editorially re- uids in all laboratory areas. sample should be the same size. Condi-
vised 2005; editorially revised 2006, 4.2 The alcohol specified in this tion the test specimens for a minimum of
2008, 2010, 2011, 2016, 2018, 2019; method is flammable. Keep away from 4 h at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5%
revised 2007; reaffirmed 2012, 2017. heat, sparks and open flame. Use with ad- RH prior to testing (see 12.5).
Technically equivalent to ISO 23232. equate ventilation. Avoid prolonged
breathing of vapor or contact with skin. 8. Procedure
1. Purpose and Scope
Do not take internally.
4.3 Exposure to chemicals used in this 8.1 Place the test specimen flat on the
1.1 This test method can be used to de- procedure must be controlled at or below white textile blotting paper on a smooth,
termine the efficacy of a protective finish levels set by governmental authorities horizontal surface.
that is capable of imparting a low energy [e.g., Occupational Safety and Health 8.1.1 When evaluating open weave or
surface on all types of fabrics, by evaluat- Administration’s (OSHA) permissible ex- “thin” fabrics, conduct the test on at least
ing the fabric’s resistance to wetting by a posure limits (PEL) as found in 29 CFR two layers of the fabric; otherwise, the
selected series of water/alcohol solutions 1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov test liquid may wet the underlying sur-
of different surface tensions. for latest version]. In addition, the Ameri- face, not the actual test fabric, and
can Conference of Governmental Indus- thereby cause confusion in the reading of
2. Principle trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold the results.
Limit Values (TLVs) comprising time 8.2 Wearing clean laboratory gloves,
2.1 Drops of standard test liquids, con- weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short brush the pile of napped or pile fabrics
sisting of a selected series of water/ term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and lightly with your hand in the direction
alcohol solutions with varying surface ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended giving the greatest lay of the surface prior
tensions, are placed on the fabric surface as a general guide for air contaminant ex- to placing the drops of the test liquid.
and observed for wetting, wicking and posure which should be met (see 12.1). 8.3 Beginning with the lowest-num-
contact angle. The aqueous repellency bered test liquid (AATCC Aqueous Solu-
grade is the highest numbered test liquid 5. Uses and Limitations tion Test Grade Liquid No. 1), carefully
which does not wet the fabric surface. place small drops [approximately 5 mm
(The scale ranges from zero to eight, with 5.1 This test method is not intended to (0.19 in.) in diameter or 0.05 mL volume]
a rating of eight signifying the most re- give an absolute measure of the resis- on the test specimen in three locations
pellent surface.) tance of the fabric to staining by all aque- along the filling direction. The drops
ous materials. Other factors, such as com- should be approximately 4.0 cm (1.5 in.)
3. Terminology position and viscosity of the aqueous apart. The dropper tip should be held at a
substances, fabric construction, fiber height of approximately 0.6 cm (0.25 in.)
3.1 grade, n.—in textile testing, the type, dyes, other finishing agents, etc.,
symbol for any step of a multi-step stan- from the fabric surface while placing
also influence stain resistance. This test drops. DO NOT TOUCH THE FABRIC
dard reference scale for a quality charac- can, however, provide a rough index of
teristic. WITH THE DROPPER TIP. Observe the
aqueous stain resistance, in that generally drops for 10 ± 2 s, from approximately a
NOTE: The grade is assigned to test the higher the aqueous solution repel-
specimens exhibiting a degree of the 45° angle.
lency grade, the better resistance to stain- 8.4 If no penetration or wetting of the
quality comparable to that step of the ing by aqueous materials, especially liquid
standard. fabric at the liquid-fabric interface and no
aqueous substances. This is particularly wicking around the drops occur, place
3.2 aqueous repellency, n.—in tex- true when comparing various finishes for
tiles, the characteristic of a fiber, yarn or drops of the next higher-numbered test
a given fabric. liquid at an adjacent site on the fabric and
fabric whereby it resists wetting by aque-
ous liquids. again observe for 10 ± 2 s.
6. Apparatus and Materials (see 12.2)
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

8.5 Continue this procedure until one

4. Safety Precautions 6.1 Test liquids prepared and num- of the test liquids shows obvious wetting
bered according to Table IV. or wicking of the fabric under or around
NOTE: These safety precautions are 6.2 Dropping bottles (see 12.3). the drop within 10 ± 2 s.
for information purposes only. The pre- 6.3 White AATCC Textile Blotting
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Paper (see 12.4). 9. Evaluation
dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
6.4 Laboratory gloves (general purpose
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use 9.1 The AATCC Aqueous Solution
is sufficient).
safe and proper techniques in handling Repellency Grade of a fabric is the nu-
materials in this test method. Manufac- 7. Test Specimens merical value of the highest-numbered
turers MUST be consulted for specific test liquid which will not wet the fabric
details such as material safety data sheets 7.1 Test two specimens of the same within a period of 10 ± 2 s. A grade of
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- size from each sample. Specimen size zero (0) is assigned when the fabric fails
tions. All OSHA standards and rules should be sufficient to allow for the com- the 98% water solution test liquid. Wet-
must also be consulted and followed. plete range of test liquids to be evaluated, ting of the fabric is normally evidenced
4.1 Good laboratory practices should but shall be no smaller than 20 × 20 cm by a darkening of the fabric at the liquid-
be followed. Wear safety glasses and im- (8 × 8 in.) and no larger than 20 × 40 cm fabric interface or wicking and/or loss of

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM193-2007e4(2017)e2 395
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
A = Passes; clear well-rounded drop
B = Borderline pass; rounding drop with partial darkening
C = Fails; wicking apparent and/or complete wetting
D = Fails; complete wetting

Fig. 1—Grading example.

contact angle of the drop. On black or est 0.5 value determined by subtracting cotton materials. The unit of measure was
dark fabrics, wetting can be detected by one-half from the number of the border- the median of the grades of the two (or
loss of “sparkle” within the drop. line pass test liquid. three) specimens rated each day.
9.2 Different types of wetting may be 11.2 The components of variance as
encountered depending on the finish, fi- 10. Report standard deviations of the aqueous solu-
ber, construction, etc.; and the determination repellency grade were calculated as
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

tion of the end point can be difficult on 10.1 The specimen size used for testing shown in Table I.
certain fabrics. Many fabrics will show should be reported (see 7.1).
complete resistance to wetting by a given 10.2 The aqueous solution repellency
grade should be measured on two sepa- Table I—Components of Variance
test liquid (as indicated by a clear drop Table for Alcohol/water test
with a high contact angle, see Fig. 1, Ex- rate specimens. If the two grades agree,
ample A) followed by immediate pene- report the value. When the two grades are Single operator 0.26
tration by the next higher-numbered test not in agreement, a third determination Between operator/within laboratories 0.43
liquid. In these instances the end point, should be made. Report the grade of the
and aqueous solution repellency grade, is third determination if that value is the
obvious. However, some fabrics will same as either of the first two determina- Table II—Critical Differencesa
show progressive wetting under several tions. When the third determination is
test liquids as evidenced by a partial different from either of the first two, re- No. of Single Within
port the median value. For example, if the Observationsb Operator Laboratory
darkening of the fabric at the liquid-
fabric interface (see Fig. 1, Examples B, first two grades are 3.0 and 4.0 and the 1 0.50 0.79
C and D). For such fabrics, the point of third determination is a 4.5 value, report 2 0.18 0.59
the median value of 4.0. Report the aque-
failure is considered to be that test liquid 3 0.15 0.48
ous solution repellency grade to the near-
which exhibits complete darkening of the
est 0.5 value (see Fig. 1 and 9.3).
interface or any wicking within 10 ± 2 s. a
The critical differences were calculated using t –
1.950, which is based on infinite degrees of
9.3 A failure occurs when two (or 11. Precision and Bias freedom.
more) of the three drops applied from a b
An observation is a unit of measure obtained
given test liquid show complete wetting 11.1 Summary. Intralaboratory tests from the median of the grades for 2 (or 3)
(Fig. 1[D]) or wicking with loss of con- were conducted in November 2002 and specimens.
tact angle (Fig. 1[C]). A pass occurs if January 2003 to establish the precision of
two (or more) of the three drops applied this test method. Both intralab testings in-
show clear well rounded appearance with volved two participants in one laboratory Table III—Mean Values from
high contact angle (Fig. 1[A]). The grade rating two specimens of each of seven Testing of Specimens
is expressed as the integer value of the fabrics each day for three days. The
pass test liquid immediately prior to the grades of these intralabs use the scale Finish load level
fail test liquid. A borderline pass occurs from 1-10. All materials necessary for the Fabric Low High
if two (or more) of the three drops ap- intralabs were provided by customer fab- Cotton 3.5 5.5
plied show the rounded drop with partial ric trials and were processed at two finish Polyester 7.5
darkening of the test specimen (Fig. load levels. The fabrics used included Cotton/Polyester 1.5 2.5
1[B]). The grade is expressed to the near- nylon, polyester, cotton and polyester/ Nylon 6 8

396 AATCC TM193-2007e4(2017)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table IV—Standard Test Liquids
AATCC Aqueous Solution Surface Tensions
Repellency Grade Number Composition *N
0 None (fails 98% water)
1 98:2/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 59.0
2 95:5/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 50.0
3 90:10/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 42.0
4 80:20/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 33.0
5 70:30/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 27.5
6 60:40/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 25.4
7 50:50/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 24.5
8 40:60/Water : isopropyl alcohol (vol:vol) 24.0

*N = dynes/cm at 25°C

11.3 Critical differences. For the com- pertaining to this test method, please visit quential order in a wooden platform on the
ponents of variance in 11.2, two observa- the online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www. grading table. NOTE: Ratio of test liquids
tions should be considered significantly aatcc.org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility does affect surface tension of the liquid. Use
different at the 95% probability level if of listing equipment and materials sold by its only analytical grades of test liquids. The sur-
Corporate members, but AATCC does not face tension of the liquids should be checked
the difference equals or exceeds the criti- qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
cal differences shown in Table II. every month or the liquids in the dropper
tify that any of the listed equipment or bottles should be replaced every month from
11.4 Bias. The true value of the aque- materials meets the requirements in its test a sealed stock solution bottle since the iso-
ous solution repellency grade can only be methods. propyl alcohol concentration decreases due to
defined in terms of this test method. 12.3 For convenience, it is desirable to evaporation.
Within this limitation, this test method transfer the test liquids from stock solutions to 12.4 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
has no known bias. dropping bottles; each marked with the appro- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
priate AATCC Aqueous Solution Repellency +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
12. Notes Grade number. A typical system found useful
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
consists of 60 mL dropping bottles with
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

12.1 Available from Publications Office, ground-in pipettes and Neoprene bulbs. Prior 12.5 Often AATCC TM118 (Test Method
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper to use the bulbs should be soaked in heptane for Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance)
Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1. for several hours and then rinsed in fresh hep- and AATCC TM193 are done concurrently. It
513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org. tane to remove soluble substances. It has been is recommended that the specimen sizes for
12.2 For potential equipment information found helpful to place the test liquids in se- each test be the same.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM193-2007e4(2017)e2 397
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM194-2006e(2013)e

Test Method for Anti-House Dust Mite Properties

of Textiles under Long-Term Test Conditions
Developed 2006 by AATCC Committee protective clothing and respiratory pro- tained at 25 ± 1°C (77 ± 1°F) and 73-76%
RA49; reaffirmed 2007, 2008, 2013; ed- tection that prevents penetration by the relative humidity on one part desiccated
itorially revised 2010, 2019. matter. ox liver powder: one part dried yeast
4.3 All work should be conducted us- powder (see 13.2). Before use, the mix-
ing standard safe laboratory practices. ture should first be ground with a mortar
1. Purpose and Scope 4.4 All chemicals should be handled and pestle, then sieved so that the particle
with care. size is between 500–750 µm.
1.1 This test method is for the evalua- 7.2 Care must be taken to ensure that
4.5 An eyewash/safety shower should
tion of the degree of anti-house dust mite stock cultures of mites used for testing
be located nearby for emergency use.
activity in a long-term testing environ- have not previously been exposed to
ment for textiles treated at the manufac- 4.6 Exposure to chemicals used in this
procedure must be controlled at or below chemicals or treatments that might have
turing level for this purpose. some interaction with the mites.
levels set by governmental authorities
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
2. Principle Administration’s [OSHA] permissible ex- 8. Preparation of Specimens
2.1 Test and control specimens are in- posure limits [PEL] as found in 29 CFR
1910.1000; see web site: www.osha.gov 8.1 Test Specimens.
oculated with the test organism and nutri- 8.1.1 Prepare a minimum of three test
ents. After six weeks of incubation, suffi- for latest version). In addition, the Ameri-
can Conference of Governmental Indus- specimens by cutting them to fit snugly in
cient time for mite colonies to flourish the bottom of a 10 cm diameter glass or
under optimal conditions, the dust mites trial Hygienists (ACGIH) Threshold
Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of time polystyrene Petri dish. This can accu-
are recovered from the specimens by heat rately be done by tracing around the dish
extraction. Results are expressed as per weighted averages (TLV-TWA), short
term exposure limits (TLV-STEL) and on the sample, or by using of a suitably
cent reduction on the treated sample ver- sized die. For loose fibers, sufficient ma-
sus the untreated control. ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recommended
as a general guide for air contaminant ex- terial to cover the bottom of the Petri dish
posure which should be met (see 13.1). should be used.
3. Terminology 8.1.2 Petri dishes or other test cham-
3.1 activity, n.—of an anti-dust mite 5. Limitations bers of larger or smaller size can be sub-
agent, a measure of the effectiveness of stituted where desired. The size of the
the agent. 5.1 The method can not be used to de- test specimen should change accordingly
3.2 anti-house dust mite agent, n.— termine the specific mode of action of a to ensure a snug fit of the sample in the
any chemical which kills (acaricide) or given acaricide treatment. bottom of the dish.
repels house dust mites. 5.2 The method should not be used to 8.2 Control specimens.
predict the performance of a finished arti- 8.2.1 A minimum of three specimens
4. Safety Precautions cle if the test specimen will go through of the same fiber type and construction as
additional processing steps or represents the test specimen but containing no anti-
NOTE: These safety precautions are only a component of the final article. mite finish (negative control) should also
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.3 While this test method provides be prepared.
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- some insight into the effect of different 8.2.2 In addition, an internal lab con-
dure and are not intended to be all inclu- textile treatments in controlling the abil- trol previously determined to support
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use ity of mites to successfully establish dust mite colonies should be included for
safe and proper techniques in handling breeding colonies, direct conclusions can each test. The purpose of this internal
materials in this test method. Manufac- not be made with regard to a treatment re- control is to provide validation that the
turers MUST be consulted for specific moving or reducing allergens. mite colony has developed at the ex-
details such as material safety data sheets 5.4 This test method does not allow pected rate on a known sample over the
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- recovery of house dust mite eggs. How- course of the six weeks test.
tions. All OSHA standards and rules ever, it does provide a good measurement 8.3 Sterilization of Specimens.
must also be consulted and followed. of the effectiveness of anti-dust mite 8.3.1 Specimens may be sterilized
4.1 This test should be carried out by treatment on a breeding mite colony. when there is potential for fungal growth
persons with training and experience in on the specimen over the test period due
the use of acarological techniques. 6. Test Organisms to the presence of spores. The method of
4.2 CAUTION: Although house dust sterilization used will depend on the sam-
mites are not considered to be a direct 6.1 Test mites: Dermatophagoides ple composition and finish, as well as the
hazard to humans, their fecal pellets have pteronyssinus or D. farinae. Any other particular anti-house dust mite treatment.
been demonstrated to be a potential po- species suitable to a given country or re- Report method of sterilization, if used.
tent allergen for those susceptible to gion can also be used.
asthma. Therefore, every necessary and 9. Procedure
reasonable precaution must be taken to 7. Maintenance of House Dust Mite Stock
eliminate this risk to the laboratory per- Cultures 9.1 Test Setup.
sonnel and to personnel in the associated 9.1.1 Distribute 50 mg of the ground/
environment. Where appropriate, wear 7.1 Dust mite colonies should be main- sieved nutrient mixture on each test

398 AATCC TM194-2006e(2013)e

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
between-laboratory averages.
place the test units at 25 ± 1°C (77 ± 1°F) sequent counting. 12.2 Bias. Anti-house dust mite prop-
and 73-76% relative humidity for approx- erties of textiles under long-term test con-
imately 48 h to acclimatize the specimen ditions can be defined only in terms of a
microenvironment. 10. Evaluation
test method. There is no independent
9.1.4 Place 25 male and 25 female 10.1 For each specimen, count the total method for determining the true values.
mites from a robust colony on each accli- number of mites recovered on the film As a means of estimating these proper-
matized test and control specimen. using a low power stereo-binocular mi- ties, the method has no known bias.
9.1.5 If possible, use mating pairs to croscope.
ensure that the females are at a similar 10.2 For each set of test and control
stage of oviposition. specimens, calculate the mean and stan- 13. Notes and References
9.1.6 Close the test chamber and incu- dard deviation.
bate the samples at 25 ± 1°C (77 ± 1°F) 13.1 Available from Publication Office,
ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
and 73-76% relative humidity for six Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
weeks. 11. Report 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
9.2 Mite Recovery. 13.2 Desiccated ox liver powder can be ob-
9.2.1 After the six weeks of incubation, 11.1 Express results as percent reduc-
tained from Oxoid Inc., 800 Proctor Ave.,
remove one test chamber at a time from tion versus the control, using the follow- Ogdensburg NY 13669; tel: +1.800.567.8378;
the incubator. For each plate, pre-cut a ing formula: fax: +1.613.226.3728; e-mail: webinfo.us@
sample of nylon mesh material (see 13.4) oxoid.com; web site: www.oxoid.com.
A–B 13.3 Tangle Trap can be obtained from The
to fit snugly within the test plate. Cover R = ------------- × 100
the mesh with adhesive film so that the A Tanglefoot Company, 314 Straight Ave. S.W.,
sticky side of the tape is in direct contact Grand Rapids MI 49504-6485; tel: +1.616.
where: 459.4139; fax: +1.616.459.4139; e-mail: info@
with the mesh, and the edges of the tape R = percent reduction of the test spec- tanglefoot.com; web site: www.tanglefoot.com.
extends beyond the edge of the mesh by imen versus the control. 13.4 A mesh consisting of 447 denier nylon
approximately 5 mm. A = the mean number of dust mites filaments, with 40 × 40 threads/inch, thickness
9.2.2 Remove the lid from the test found on the control specimen. of 0.36 mm and with a hole size of 0.63 mm
chamber and firmly place the tape/mesh B = the mean number of dust mites has been found effective. This mesh can be
combination directly on top of the test found on the test specimen. obtained from Industrial Textiles Ltd., 62
specimen, with the sticky side of the tape Patiki Rd., Avondale, Auckland 1007 NZ;
facing down. Ensure the outer edges of 11.2 For a valid test: If a healthy mite tel: +64.98283188; free fax: +64.98281022;
the tape adhere to the sides of the test colony has been established on the nega- e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.
indtex.co.nz.
plate. The mesh should serve to limit the tive control specimens during the six
13.5 Other means of heating the samples,
amount of food particles and dead mites week test period, mites on the internal lab such as the use of an incandescent light
that might adhere to the sticky tape dur- control do not need to be recovered and source, can also be used. However, the pro-
ing the subsequent recovery step. counted. However, if the mite numbers cess must be optimized to obtain maximum
9.2.3 Place the plate, minus the lid, di- on the negative controls are lower than mite recovery for each type of sample before
rectly on a heating plate (see 13.5) set at expected for a control in this time period, initiation of the test.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM194-2006e(2013)e 399
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4

Test Method for Liquid Moisture Management

Properties of Textile Fabrics
1. Purpose and Scope ing purposes, the side of the specimen tom surfaces of the specimen begin to be
placed down against the lower electrical wetted after the test is started.
1.1 This test method is for the mea- sensor which is the side of the fabric that
surement, evaluation and classification of would be the outer exposed surface of a
liquid moisture management properties garment when it is worn or product when 4. Safety Precautions
of textile fabrics. The test method pro- it is used.
duces objective measurements of liquid NOTE: These safety precautions are
3.4 maximum wetted radius for information purposes only. The pre-
moisture management properties of knit- (MWRT) and (MWRB) (mm), n.—the

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
ted, woven and nonwoven textile fabrics. cautions are ancillary to the testing pro-
greatest ring radius measured on the top cedures and are not intended to be all-
1.2 The results obtained with this test and bottom surfaces. inclusive. It is the users’ responsibility to
method are based on water resistance, 3.5 moisture management, n.—for use safe and proper techniques in han-
water repellency and water absorption liquid moisture management testing, the dling materials in this test method. Manu-
characteristics of the fabric structure, in- engineered or inherent transport of aque- facturers MUST be consulted for specific
cluding the fabric’s geometric and internal ous liquids such as perspiration or water details such as material safety data sheets
structure and the wicking characteristics (relates to comfort) and includes both liq- and other manufacturers’ recommenda-
of its fibers and yarns. uid and vapor forms of water. tions. All OSHA standards and rules
3.6 overall (liquid) moisture man- must also be consulted and followed.
2. Principle agement capability (OMMC), n.—an 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
index of the overall capability of a fabric be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
2.1 The liquid moisture management to transport liquid moisture as calculated laboratory areas.
properties of a textile are evaluated by by combining three measured attributes
placing a fabric specimen between two of performance: the liquid moisture ab-
horizontal (upper and lower) electrical sorption rate on the bottom surface 5. Uses and Limitations
sensors each with seven concentric pins. (ARB), the one way liquid transport capa- 5.1 AATCC test methods are not per-
A predetermined amount of test solution bility (R), and the maximum liquid mois- formance specifications as the methods
that aids the measurement of electrical ture spreading speed on the bottom sur- produce measurements only. It is the re-
conductivity changes are dropped onto face (SSB). sponsibility of test method users to
the center of the upward-facing test spec- 3.7 spreading speed (SSi), n.—the ac- choose the minimum (or maximum) mea-
imen surface. The test solution is free to cumulated rate of surface wetting from surement value that is acceptable for the
move in three directions: radial spreading the center of the specimen where the test product being tested.
on the top surface, movement through the solution is dropped to the maximum wet- 5.2 This test method focuses on liquid
specimen from top surface to the bottom ted radius. moisture transport in the flat state. The
surface, and radial spreading on the bot- 3.8 top surface (T), n.—for testing test method may be applicable to the
tom surface of the specimen. During the purposes, the side of a specimen that, evaluation of fabrics in garments or tex-
test, changes in electrical resistance of when the specimen is placed on the lower tile products as they would be exposed to
specimen are measured and recorded. electrical sensor, is facing the upper sen- liquid moisture (e.g., perspiration) present
2.2 The electrical resistance readings sor. This is the side of the fabric that on the surface of human skin. It does not
are used to calculate fabric liquid would come in contact with the skin measure gaseous moisture transport prop-
moisture content changes that quantify when a garment is worn or when a prod- erties (e.g., water vapor transmission) or
dynamic liquid moisture transport behav- uct is used. tactile properties that also influence hu-
iors in multiple directions of the 3.9 total water content (U) (%), n.— man perceptions of comfort.
specimen. The summary of the measured the sum of the percent water content of 5.3 Because human perceptions of
results are used to grade the liquid mois- the top and bottom surfaces. comfort are influenced by multiple liquid
ture management properties of a fabric by NOTE: Total water content mea- movement properties, as well as ergo-
using predetermined indices. surements may be more accurately nomic (garment fit) factors, the use of a
termed, “total surface water content” single unit of measurement from this test
3. Terminology particularly in the case of fabric with method or any other test method could be
cellulosic content. Total water content misleading as explained in the AATCC/
3.1 absorption rate (ART) (top sur- implies that all water in the specimen is ASTM International’s Moisture Manage-
face) and (ARB) (bottom surface), n.— being measured which may be the case ment Technical Supplement as Related to
the average speed of liquid moisture ab- with some manufactured fabrics. How- Textile Apparel, Linens and Soft Goods
sorption for the top and bottom surfaces ever, when testing cellulosic fibers, (see 13.1). Consequently, this test method
of the specimen during the initial change moisture trapped in the interior of the alone will not give an overall rating of the
of water content during a test. fiber (for example, in the lumen of cotton comfort of a garment or textile product.
3.2 accumulative one-way transport fibers) will not be included with a Overall performance schemes, such as
capability (R), n.—the difference be- specimen’s detected surface liquid the Grading Graph in 9.2.1, should be de-
tween the area of the liquid moisture con- moisture. veloped when trying to correlate a combi-
tent curves of the top and bottom surfaces 3.10 wetting time (WTT) (top sur- nation of absorption, wicking, liquid and
of a specimen with respect to time. face) and (WTB) (bottom surface), n.— vapor movement that can be related to the
3.3 bottom surface (B), n.—for test- the time in seconds when the top and bot- environment and preferences of fit and

400 AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
style in which the textile product is to be 6. Apparatus and Materials at 20 s to assure the predetermined
used and worn. amount (0.22 cc) of test solution is dis-
6.1 Moisture Management Tester pensed. For each specimen, the percent
5.4 This method may not be applicable (MMT) (see 13.2, Figs. 1 and 2).
to coated, laminated, or complex fabric (%) water content point on the graph
6.2 Computer with MMT software in- should be 0.0 at the start of each test to
constructions. Caution should be used stalled.
when analyzing fabrics with repellent avoid erroneous test results. Set the
6.3 Distilled water. “Measure Time” for 120 s and start the
surface finishes. This method may not be 6.4 Sodium chloride solution (0.9%
applicable to specimens exhibiting high test. At the end of the 120 s test time, the
NaCl). software will automatically stop the test
overall absorbent capacity such as terry 6.5 Conductivity meter.
cloth or other thick knitted and woven and calculate all of the indices.
6.6 White AATCC Textile Blotting 8.5 Raise the upper sensor and remove
fabrics. Thicker or highly absorbent fab-
Paper (see 13.1) or soft paper towels. the tested specimen.
rics may not allow for proper liquid mois-
ture movement to be analyzed using the 8.6 Before inserting the next specimen,
test solution volume. 7. Test Specimens keep the upper sensor in its locked posi-
5.5 This test method does not measure 7.1 Before cutting specimens, launder tion. Dry between the rings of pins on
drying performance directly. Drying per- the sample(s) according to the conditions both upper and lower sensors using
formance is inferred based on the area of selected from the AATCC LP1 Labora- White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper or
liquid moisture spreading. tory Procedure for Home Laundering: a soft paper towel cut into narrow (0.5
Machine Washing (see 13.1) or as agreed cm) strips. Wait 1 min, or longer, to en-
5.6 The wetting times measured in this sure there is no residual test solution
method may be related to absorbency as between parties. It may be suitable to test
present on the sensors, otherwise any

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
measured by AATCC TM79, Test Method a material unlaundered or after repeated
launderings. Removal of sizing and/or leftover moisture will cause an erroneous
for Absorbency of Textiles (see 13.1). start (see 8.4). If salt deposits are ob-
finishes may affect the liquid moisture
5.7 The maximum wetted radius de- served on the sensors after drying, use
management properties of a fabric (see
fined in 3.4 above should not be used to distilled water to remove.
13.3).
infer maximum spread areas. As this test- 8.7 Load a new specimen on top of the
7.2 Cut five 8 × 8 cm specimens, taken
ing apparatus employs the use of concen- lower sensor with the fabric top surface
diagonally across the width of a sample,
tric circular rings for measuring wetted up and repeat steps 8.4-8.6.
to ensure that different sets of length and
radius, for specimens that exhibit non- 8.8 When testing has been completed
width yarns are in each specimen or from
circular, elliptical or amoeboid spread for the day, use distilled water to clean
different sites on a product.
patterns, the radius may be misrepre- and purge the pump and tubing.
sented. For example, fabrics with a linear 7.3 Place the specimens on a flat
symmetry such as ribbed knits or fabrics smooth, horizontal surface without ten-
with repellent finishes may exhibit irreg- sion before testing, to condition them to 9. Evaluation Measurement Units,
ular spreading patterns. moisture equilibrium in an environment Grading, and Classification
controlled at 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F) and 65
± 5% RH as recommended by ASTM 9.1 Measurement units – For each sam-
D1776, Standard Practice for Condition- ple tested, compile the average values for
ing and Testing Textiles (see 13.5). each measurement unit as follows:
Wetting Time – WTT (top surface)
8. Procedure and WTB (bottom surface),
Absorption Rate – ART (top surface)
8.1 Prepare the test solution by dissolv- and ARB (bottom surface),
ing 9 g sodium chloride (USP Grade) in Maximum Wetted Radius – MWRT
1 L of distilled water and adjust its elec- (top surface) and MWRB (bottom sur-
trical conductivity to 16 ± 0.2 milli Sie- face),
mens (mS) at 25°C (77°F) by adding Spreading Speed – SST (top surface)
sodium chloride or distilled water as and SSB (bottom surface),
necessary. The test solution is used to
provide a conductive medium for the Accumulative One-way Transport Ca-
instrument’s sensors and does not pability – (R), and
duplicate perspiration. Overall (liquid) Moisture Manage-
8.2 Follow the manufacturer’s instruc- ment Capability (OMMC).
tions for starting the instrument, addition 9.1.1 Formulae used to calculate the
Fig. 1—Moisture management tester.
of the test solution, and the computer units of measurement shown in 9.1 are
software’s set up to collect test data. given in Appendix A.
8.3 Raise the upper sensor to its locked 9.2 Grading – Using the average values
position and place a paper towel on the from 9.1 and Table I, grade the tested
lower sensor. Press the “Pump” button sample(s). The grading developed is
for 1-2 min until the amount (0.22 cc) of based on a study referenced in 13.2
test solution is drawn from the container which classifies material moving
and drips onto the paper towel and no air moisture from the back to the face with
bubbles are present inside the tubing. Re- higher values.
move the paper towel. 9.2.1 Table II – Grading Summary
8.4 Place the conditioned test specimen Table can be used to summarize and
on the lower sensor with the specimen’s illustrate the liquid moisture management
top surface up (see 3.8). Release the up- properties of the tested sample(s).
per sensor until it freely rests on the test 9.2.2 Tables I and II are examples of
Fig. 2—A cross-sectional specimen and shut the door of the tester. grading schemes. Other schemes may be
side view of the equipment. Confirm that the “Pump-On Time” is set developed.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4 401
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Grading Table of all Indices

Grade
Index 1 2 3 4 5
Wetting time (sec Top ≥ 120 20 – 119 5 – 19 3–5 <3
Bottom ≥ 120 20 – 119 5 – 19 3–5 <3
Absorption rate (%/sec) Top 0–9 10 – 29 30 – 49 50 – 100 > 100
Bottom 0–9 10 – 29 30 – 49 50 – 100 > 100
Max wetted radius (mm) Top 0–7 8 – 12 13 – 17 18 – 22 > 22
Bottom 0–7 8 – 12 13 – 17 18 – 22 > 22
Spreading speed (mm/sec) Top 0.0 – 0.9 1.0 – 1.9 2.0 – 2.9 3.0 – 4.0 > 4.0
Bottom 0.0 – 0.9 1.0 – 1.9 2.0 – 2.9 3.0 – 4.0 > 4.0
One-way transport capability (R) <-50 -50 – 99 100 – 199 200 – 400 > 400
Overall Moisture Management Capability (OMMC) 0.00 – 0.19 0.20 – 0.39 0.40 – 0.59 0.60 – 0.80 > 0.80

Table II—Grading Summary Table

10. Report ing to AATCC TM135 (1)(III)(A)i; represent different fabric types, yields, fi-
Normal water level with 2003 AATCC ber contents and technology applications.
10.1 Record the average and standard Standard Reference Liquid Laundry De-
deviations of the measurements listed in 11.4 T-tests on all of the reported mea-
tergent. A normal tumble dry setting was surements for the three sets of 10 replicate
9.1. used for a 30 min interval. Ten new spec-
10.2 Using the averages, grade the data within a sample, at the 95% confi-
imens from each sample were tested three dence level, do not show any statistically
sample according to Table I and separate days by one operator. Specimens
summarize using Table II. significant differences within a sample.
were conditioned 48 h and tested in pre- Therefore, the confidence intervals may
10.3 Report the average, standard devi- scribed standard atmospheres (see 7.2). be used to suggest a range of values that
ation and grade for each sample or the
11.3 Table III Summary Data for Each may be obtained with each test measure-
agreed upon measurements.
MMT Measurement by Sample shows the ment for various types of samples.
average values of each MMT unit of mea- 11.5 Between-laboratory precision has
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

11. Precision
surement for each sample. The table also not been established for this test method.
11.1 A single-lab study was performed shows the calculated standard deviation Until such precision information is avail-
in November 2008 using a SDL Atlas (SD), coefficient of variation percent able, users of the method should use stan-
Moisture Management Tester, Model (CV%), and 95% confidence interval for dard statistical techniques in making any
290, Software Version 3.06. The six fab- each sample. As noted in 5.2-5.5, caution comparison of test results for between-
rics tested are identified in Table III. in comparing data between selected sam- laboratory averages.
11.2 The samples were laundered one ples or among all of the samples in the 11.6 Earlier studies regarding the
time in a single 1.8 kg (4 lb) load accord- study cannot be made as the study samples Moisture Management Tester’s precision

402 AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table III—Summary Data for Each MMT Measurement by Sample

Top Bottom
Top Bottom Top Bottom Max Max Top
Accumulative Bottom
One-Way
Wetting Wetting Absorption Absorption Wetted Wetted Spreading Spreading Transport
Yield Fiber Time Time Rate Rate Radius Radius Speed Speed Index
G/M2 Content (sec) (sec) (%/sec) (%/sec) (mm) (mm) (mm/sec) (mm/sec) (%) OMMC

Woven 117 100% C average 2.32 2.37 86.55 71.22 30.00 30.00 8.22 8.07 -120.41 0.42

min 2.05 2.20 82.44 66.70 30.00 30.00 7.96 7.69 -143.57 0.41

max 2.59 2.59 90.09 75.10 30.00 30.00 8.50 8.27 -98.18 0.43

std dev 0.11 0.10 1.71 1.69 0.00 0.00 0.14 0.13 11.11 0.0047

cv % 0.05 0.04 0.02 0.02 0.00 0.00 0.02 0.02 -0.09 0.01

95% Cl 0.04 0.04 0.61 0.60 N/A N/A 0.05 0.05 3.98 0.00

Knit 168 100% PET average 2.93 3.06 57.11 48.52 23.50 22.50 4.53 4.42 -89.25 0.36

min 2.77 2.77 52.54 44.19 20.00 20.00 4.11 4.08 -110.25 0.35

max 3.41 3.41 94.06 52.44 25.00 25.00 4.93 4.93 -55.66 0.37

std dev 0.13 0.14 7.26 2.28 2.33 2.54 0.22 0.21 12.54 0.01

cv % 0.04 0.05 0.13 0.05 0.10 0.11 0.05 0.05 -0.14 0.03

95% Cl 0.05 0.05 2.60 0.82 0.83 0.91 0.08 0.08 4.49 0.00

Knit 204 100% C average 5.28 4.33 38.12 56.21 52.50 27.67 4.97 5.73 417.00 0.87

min 3.72 2.84 29.74 47.24 25.00 25.00 4.30 4.71 342.02 0.81

max 6.84 5.64 98.17 64.78 30.00 30.00 5.91 6.88 507.58 0.90

std dev 0.89 0.75 11.93 4.18 1.53 2.54 0.34 0.53 36.56 0.02

cv % 0.17 0.17 0.31 0.07 0.03 0.09 0.07 0.09 0.09 0.02

95% Cl 0.32 0.27 4.27 1.50 0.55 0.91 0.12 0.19 13.08 0.01

Knit 199 100% C average 3.65 3.06 39.25 49.63 20.17 20.67 3.74 4.23 296.73 0.74

min 2.84 2.13 32.64 44.64 15.00 20.00 3.11 3.77 209.59 0.64

max 4.44 3.64 43.90 54.07 25.00 25.00 4.78 5.41 378.72 0.85

std dev 0.41 0.33 3.18 2.32 1.60 1.73 0.37 0.35 39.86 0.05

cv % 0.11 0.11 0.08 0.05 0.08 0.08 0.10 0.08 0.13 0.07

95% Cl 0.15 0.12 1.14 0.83 0.57 0.62 0.13 0.13 14.26 0.02

Knit 648 65N/21PET/14EL average 6.74 3.55 17.71 68.51 14.17 20.50 2.21 3.55 722.30 0.87

min 3.80 3.08 11.73 50.45 10.00 20.00 1.10 3.32 649.96 0.81

max 14.84 3.88 32.40 90.84 15.00 25.00 2.97 3.88 785.22 0.93

std dev 2.67 0.21 5.11 14.57 1.90 1.53 0.52 0.13 36.53 0.04

cv % 0.40 0.06 0.29 0.21 0.13 0.07 0.24 0.04 0.05 0.05

95% Cl 0.96 0.08 1.83 5.21 0.68 0.55 0.19 0.05 13.07 0.01

Knit 168 65N/21PET/14EL average 7.16 6.23 54.94 80.52 10.00 11.00 1.29 1.43 233.47 0.52
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

min 5.72 4.92 36.67 42.76 10.00 10.00 0.73 1.30 23.50 0.36

max 14.67 7.08 106.950 168.130 10.00 15.00 1.51 1.75 574.27 0.77

std dev 1.60 0.49 19.13 30.62 0.00 2.03 0.13 0.08 112.50 0.11

cv % 0.22 0.08 0.35 0.38 0.00 0.18 0.10 0.06 0.48 0.21

95% Cl 0.57 0.18 6.85 10.96 N/A 0.73 0.05 0.03 40.26 0.04

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4 403
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
have been performed (see 13.4.) 8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail: ordering@ Transfer in Textile Fabrics” by Bao-guo Yao,
11.7 Data from the 2008 study are on aatcc.org; web site: www.aatcc.org. Zhejiang University and The Hong Kong
file at AATCC Headquarters for refer- 13.2 The information about the Moisture Polytechnic University and Yi Li and Yi-lin
ence purposes. Management Tester is available from SDL Kwok, the Hong Kong University, published
Atlas L.L.C., 3934 Airway Dr., Rock Hill, SC in the AATCC Review, Vol. 8, No 7, July
29732-9200; tel: +1.803.329.2110; fax: +1. 2008, pp44-48.
12. Bias 803.329.2133; e-mail: [email protected]; web 13.5 Available from ASTM International,
site: www.sdlatlas.com; and may be built ac- 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
12.1 Bias. The true value of liquid cording to patent USP 6,499,338 B2 and infor- 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9555; fax: +1.610.832.
moisture management property of textile mation in the research paper “Moisture 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
fabrics can be defined only in terms of a Management Tester: A Method to Character-
test method. There is no independent ize Fabric Liquid Moisture Management
method for determining the true value. In Properties,” Textile Research Journal, Vol. 75, 14. History
estimating this property, the test method No. 1, 2005, pp57-62, and the research paper
has no known bias. “An Improved Test Method for Characterizing 14.1 Jurisdiction transferred to Committee
the Dynamic Liquid Moisture Transfer in Po- RA114 in 2022; Editorially revised to note
rous Polymeric Materials,” Polymer Testing, change.
13. Notes Vol. 25, 2006, pp677-689. 14.2 Editorially revised in 2020 to add His-
13.1 White AATCC Textile Blotting Paper, 13.3 “Influence of Pretreatments on Mois- tory section and to replace reference to M6
the AATCC/ASTM International’s Moisture ture Management Test Results,” Jane Batch- with LP1.
Management Technical Supplement as Re- eller, University of Alberta, AATCC 14.3 Editorially revised 2019, 2016. Edito-
lated to Textile Apparel, Linens and Soft International Conference Poster Presentation, rially revised and reaffirmed, 2017, 2012. Re-
Goods, and other noted documents are avail- May 2010. affirmed 2010. Revised 2011.
able from AATCC, P.O. Box 12215, Research 13.4 “Precision of New Test Method for 14.3 Developed in 2009 by AATCC Com-
Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: +1.919.549. Characterizing Dynamic Liquid Moisture mittee RA63.

Appendix A

A1. Formulae Used in the Moisture Management Tester Software A1.5 Overall moisture management capability (OMMC) for-
for the Calculation of Units of Measurement mula is:
OMMC = C1* ARB_ndv + C2 *Rndv + C3* SSB_ndv
A1.1 Absorption rate ART and ARB (%/sec) formulae are:
where:
ART = Average (SLOPET) and ARB = Average (SLOPEB) C1, C2, and C3 are the weighting values * for ARB_ndv, Rndv and
SSB_ndv
A1.2 Spreading speed (Si) formulae are: (ARB)= absorption rate
(R) = one-way transport capability, and
(SSB) = spreading speed

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
Δr Δr i
S i = -------i = --------------
-
Δt i t i – t i–1
 1 , AR B ≥ AR B _ max

where:  ARB − AR B _ min
AR B _ ndv = , ARB ∈ [ AR B _ min , ARB _ max ]
concentric ring = i (i = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, or 6)  AR B _ max − ARB _ min
wetting time + ti,I = the liquid moisture spreading speed (Si)  0 , AR B ≤ AR B _ min

from ring i–1 to ring i
the distance between ring i and ring i–1 = Δr i
 1 , R ≥ Rmax

A1.3 Accumulative Spreading Speeds (SST and SSB) formulae  R − Rmin
Rndv = , R ∈ [ Rmin , Rmax ]
are:  Rmax − Rmin
 0 , R ≤ Rmin
NT NT
Δr i
SS T =  Si =  --------------
t i – t i–1
-,  1

, SS B ≥ SS B _ max
i=1 i=1
 SS B − SS B _ min
SS B _ ndv = , SS B ∈ [ SS B _ min , SS B _ max ]
 SS B _ max − SS B _ min
NB NB  0 , SS B ≤ SS B _ min
Δr i 
SS B =  Si =  t---------------
i – t 1–1
-
i=1 i=1 ARB_max, ARB_min, Rmax, Rmin, SSB_max and SSB_min are the maximum
and the minimum grading values for each index for summed
where: specimens tested from a sample.
NT and NB are the numbers of the maximum wetted rings of the *C1, C2, and C3 can be adjusted according to the relative importance
top and bottom surfaces of the three indices based on the type of fabric and the end use of the
product. The weighting values used in the development of the MMT
A1.4 Accumulative one-way transport capability (R) formula is: software were C1 = 0.25, C2 = 0.5 and C3 = 0.25, based on human per-
ception studies, in which the one-way transport capability was found to
[Area (UB) – Area (UT)]/Total testing time. be twice as important as absorption rate and spreading speed.

404 AATCC TM195-2011e2(2017)e4 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM196-2011e3(2021)

Test Method for Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite

of a Textile Floor Covering
1. Purpose and Scope 4.2 In preparing, dispensing and han- used without titration. The solution must
dling aqueous chemical solutions, use be used within 36 h after exposure to at-
1.1 This test method is used to deter- chemical goggles or face shield, impervi- mospheric conditions. Titration is neces-
mine the fastness of colored pile yarn ous gloves and an impervious apron. sary if the purchased standard is diluted
floor coverings to the effects of a sodium 4.7 An eyewash/safety shower should to another strength.
hypochlorite solution, commonly called be located nearby and an organic vapor 6.2 The Sodium Bisulfite Solution
chlorine bleach. It is applicable to respirator should be available for emer- used to neutralize the treated specimens
predyed, postdyed, printed, or other oth- gency use. should be prepared by diluting 17.25 g in
erwise colored pile yarn floor coverings. 4.8 Exposure to chemicals used in this 1000 mL of deionized water.
procedure must be controlled at or below
2. Principle levels set by governmental authorities 7. Test Specimens
(e.g., Occupational Safety and Health
2.1 A specimen of pile yarn floor cov- 7.1 Cut two test specimens from the
Administration’s [OSHA] permissible
ering is treated with a small volume of finished pile yarn floor covering. The
exposure limits [PEL] as found in 29
sodium hypochlorite bleach. After allow- specimens shall be a minimum of 150
CFR 1910.1000; (see web site: www.
ing the treated specimen to remain at con- mm (6 in.) square.
osha.gov for latest version). In addition,
trolled conditions for a specific time, it is 7.2 Remove any extraneous surface
the American Conference of Governmen-
rinsed in water to remove all of the materials by brushing and/or vacuuming.
tal Industrial Hygienist (ACGIH) Thresh-
bleach. Any color loss is assessed after
old Limit Values (TLVs) comprised of
drying.
time weighted averages (TLV-TWA), 8. Test Procedure
short term exposure limits (TLV-STEL)
3. Terminology and ceiling limits (TLV-C) are recom- 8.1 Condition all test specimens, pile
mended as a general guide for air con- side up, on a non-absorbent surface for
3.1 color change, n.—a change in 24 h at standard conditions of 21 ± 2°C
color of any kind whether in lightness, taminant exposure which should be met
(see 12.1). (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH. Avoid con-
hue or chroma or any combination of tamination or contact with extraneous
these, discernible by comparing the test materials.
specimen with a corresponding untested 5. Apparatus and Materials 8.2 Place the 50 mm (2 in.) diameter-
specimen. staining ring in the center of one of the
3.2 colorfastness, n.—the resistance of 5.1 AATCC Stain Cup and 50 mm (2.0 test specimens. The other specimen is a
a material to change in any of its color in.) Diameter Staining Ring (see 12.2). control used for rating. While pressing
characteristics, to transfer of its colo- 5.2 Gray Scale for Color Change down on the ring, pour 20 mL of the so-
rant(s) to adjacent materials or both as a (AATCC EP1) (see 12.2). dium hypochlorite bleach solution into
result of the exposure of the material to 5.3 Water, deionized. the center of the ring, taking care not to
any environment that might be encoun- 5.4 Sodium Bisulfite (NaHSO3) (see 6.2). splatter bleach outside of the staining
tered during the processing, testing, stor- 5.5 Balance, capable of weighing to the ring. Press the bottom of the stain cup
age or use of material. nearest 0.01 g. through the ring into the pile, moving it
3.3 sodium hypochlorite bleach, n.— 5.6 Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Stan- up and down five times to facilitate wet-
4-6% solution of sodium hypochlorite dards, (NaOCl). ting of the pile fiber from top to bottom.
(NaOCl), pH 9.8-12.8, commonly called 5.7 Illumination conditions. The source Do not rotate or twist the cup inside the
“chlorine bleach.” under which the comparison is made ring as surface abrasion shall affect the
shall be determined prior to evaluation. results. Carefully remove the staining
4. Safety Precautions Sources simulating any of the following ring and stain cup.
CIE illuminants may be utilized (see 12.3 8.3 Recondition the treated specimen
NOTE: These safety precautions are and 12.4): for 24 ± 4 h in a flat position, pile side
for information purposes only. The pre- Color up, at standard conditions of 21 ± 2°C
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- Illuminant Description Temperature (70 ± 4°F) and 65 ± 5% RH. Avoid any
dures and are not intended to be all-inclu- D65 Daylight 6500K ± 200 air draft which could result in an acceler-
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use D75 Daylight 7500K ± 200 ated drying.
safe and proper techniques in the han- A Incandescent 2856K ± 200 8.4 Neutralize the bleached specimens
dling of materials in this test method. CWF Cool White 4150K ± 350 in a bath containing the prepared Sodium
Manufacturers MUST be consulted for Fluorescent Bisulfite solution for a minimum of 5
specific details such as material safety Note: Additional illuminants or changes in color mins.
data sheets and other manufacturer’s rec- temperature can be negotiated between contractual 8.5 Rinse the bleached specimen with
ommendations. All OSHA standards and parties. running water at 21 ± 6°C (70 ± 10°F)
rules must also be consulted and fol- until rinse water indicates removal of all
lowed. 6. Preparation of Standard Sodium unfixed dye. Removal of unfixed dye is
4.1 Good laboratory practices should Hypochlorite Bleach Solution enhanced by the use of a laboratory
be followed. Caution should be used wringer.
when cutting specimens. All chemicals 6.1 Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach stan- 8.6 Extract (centrifuge or vacuum) the
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,

should be handled with care. dards with traceable certificates shall be wet specimen to remove excess water.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM196-2011e3(2021) 405
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8.7 Allow specimens to air dry at room tent results. 11.2 Bias.
temperature in conditioning racks. 9.3 Only observers whose color vision 11.2.1 Colorfastness to Sodium Hy-
has been tested normal using an appropri- pochlorite Bleach can be defined only in
ate color vision test for color acurity shall terms of a test method. There is no inde-
9. Evaluation or Results perform this procedure. pendent method for determining the true
value. As a means of estimating this
9.1 Rate the color loss of the test speci- property, the method has no known bias.
men by using AATCC EP1, Evaluation 10. Report
Procedure for Gray Scale for Color 10.1 Report the numerical color change
Change, where a grade of 5 represents no grade for each specimen tested. 12. Notes
color change and 1 represents a severe 10.2 Report the sodium hypochlorite 12.1 Available from Publications Office,
color change. activity and the amount of the solution ACGIH, Kemper Woods Center, 1330 Kemper
9.2 Illuminate the surface with an illu- used to treat the specimen. Meadow Dr., Cincinnati OH 45240; tel: +1.
mination level at the specimen plane in 10.3 Report any deviation to this test 513.742.2020; web site: www.acgih.org.
the range of 1080-1340 lx (100-125 fc) method. 12.2 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
(see 12.5). The light should be incident 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709;
upon the surfaces at 45 ± 5° and the di- tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933;
11. Precision and Bias e-mail: [email protected]; web site: www.
rection of viewing at 90 ± 5° to the place
aatcc.org.
of the surfaces. Compare the perceived 11.1 Precision. 12.3 For visual assessments to be made, it
visual differences between the original 11.1.1 An interlaboratory study involv- is recommended that the correlated color tem-
and tested carpet specimens with the per- ing five laboratories and three tufted car- perature be calibrated to 6500 ± 200 K by a
ceived differences represented by the pets was conducted in 2009 using the service traceable to a national standard.
Gray Scale. The colorfastness grade is procedure described in this test method. 12.4 Filters and lamps shall be properly
that number of the Gray Scale pair whose A total of three replicates of each mate- maintained and cleaned periodically following
contrast corresponds to the contrast be- rial were tested on different days by each manufacturer’s recommendations.
tween the perceived difference in color or of the five laboratories. The interlabora- 12.5 The illumination range of 1080-1340
contrast between the original material tory precision study is characterized by lx (100-125 fc) is recommended for critical vi-
sual assessments of materials of medium light-
and tested specimen. The cleanliness and repeatability (Sr and r), reproducibility ness and is the same range specified for
physical condition of the Gray Scale is (SR and R), and the average results critical visual assessment in ASTM D1729,
extremely important in obtaining consis- shown in Table I. Standard Practice for Visual Appraisal of Col-
ors and Color Differences of Diffusely Illumi-
nated Opaque Materials.

Table I—Interlaboratory Precision Analysis for Colorfastness to Bleach1

13. History
Materials Used Average Sr SR r R 13.1 Reaffirmed 2021.
A-Tufted Nylon Carpet with 3.03333 0.54772 0.62138 1.53362 1.73986 13.2 Editorially revised 2020 to add Table I
Bleach Resistance which was previously omitted and to align
B-Tufted Nylon Carpet Acid 1.63333 0.28868 0.46248 0.80829 1.29495 History section to AATCC style guidelines;
Dyed editorially revised 2019, 2016; reaffirmed,
C-Solution Dyed Carpet 4.83333 0.12910 0.25820 0.36148 0.72296 2013, 2012.
13.3 Developed in 2011 by AATCC Com-
1
Laboratories 5; Materials 3; Determinations 3. mittee RA57.

406 AATCC TM196-2011e3(2021) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
--``,`,,,``,,```,`

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

Test Method for Vertical Wicking Rate of Textiles:

to Specified Distances
Foreword Sampling Design. of a liquid vertically upward from the
3.6 ASTM D1776, Standard Practice submerged cut edge of a specimen, but
Various versions of the vertical wick- for Conditioning and Testing Textiles. does not duplicate an end-product’s expo-
ing test have been used to evaluate tex- sure during wear.
tiles for many years. In 2004, AATCC 6.3 The results obtained by this test are
and ASTM International jointly pub- 4. Terminology
not a measure of comfort, which is be-
lished Technical Supplement, a collection 4.1 absorption, n.—a process in which yond the scope of this method.
of unofficial industry procedures. This one material (the absorbent) takes in an- 6.4 The relationship between results
test method is a more thorough and stan- other (the absorbate); as the absorption of obtained by vertical and horizontal wick-
dardized version of the vertical wicking moisture by fibers. (ASTM D123) ing tests is not known.
procedure published in the Technical 4.2 capillary action, n.—the process
Supplement. When it was first published, by which a liquid flows through narrow
this test method included options for 7. Apparatus, Reagents, Materials (see
spaces via forces of adhesion, cohesion, 16.2)
measuring wicking rate to specified dis- and surface tension, and without the use
tances and to specified times. In 2022, the of external forces, such as gravity. 7.1 Distilled or deionized water, 21 ±
rate to specified times option was trans- 4.3 fabric, n.—in textiles, a planar 2°C (70 ± 4°F).
ferred to a separate test method, AATCC structure made from yarns or fibers 7.2 Marking pens, fine-point, water-
TM213. (ASTM D123). soluble ink (see 16.3).
4.4 vertical wicking, n.—in a textile 7.3 Stopwatch or digital timer.
1. Purpose and Scope held vertically, the upward movement of 7.4 Measuring tape or ruler, mm gradu-
1.1 This test method is used to evaluate liquid via absorption or capillary action. ations.
4.5 vertical wicking rate, n.—the 7.5 Surface tensiometer, if using liquid

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
the ability of fabric specimens to trans-
port liquid vertically when a cut edge is speed at which liquid travels along or other than water (see 11.1).
submerged. through a textile 7.6 Erlenmeyer flask, 500 mL; or rec-
1.2 This method is applicable to wo- 4.6 wicking, n.—in textiles, the move- tangular pan, long enough to accommo-
ven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics. ment of a liquid, by capillary action, date all specimens side-by-side.
along or through a material. 7.7 Scissor jack, if using Erlenmeyer
2. Principle 4.7 wicking distance, n.—the linear flask.
measurement that the liquid travels along 7.8 Means of suspending specimen(s)
2.1 The distance liquid travels along or through a textile from a starting point into a flask or pan (see Figs. 2 and 3).
and/or through a fabric specimen from a to a stopping point. 7.9 Small straight pins (optional, see
cut edge is visually observed, manually 4.8 wicking time, n.—the measurable 11.2).
timed and recorded at specified intervals. period during which liquid travels along 7.10 Powder-free disposable gloves,
2.2 The movement of liquid along a or through a textile. e.g., latex or nitrile.
fabric may be influenced by fiber con-
tent, fabric construction, mechanical or 5. Safety Precautions 8. Sampling
chemical processing or a combination of
these. 5.1 The safety precautions specified in 8.1 Test results are valid only when the
2.3 Results are reported as wicking the method/procedure are ancillary to the samples are statistically representative
rates (distance per unit of time) for a testing procedures and are not intended to (see ASTM E1402).
short period (to 20 mm) and a long period be all inclusive. 8.2 Sampling must be random. Every
(to 150 mm). 5.2 It is the user’s responsibility to ref- unit of product must have a mathemati-
erence applicable safety data sheets, use cally equal chance of becoming a sample;
3. Referenced Documents safe and proper techniques, and wear ap- and every portion of each sample must be
propriate personal protective equipment equally likely to become a test specimen.
NOTE: Use current versions of all in handling materials in this standard. 8.3 All specimens must be alike within
publications unless otherwise specified. 5.3 Users MUST consult manufactur- the variations due to pure chance. There
3.1 AATCC LP1, Laboratory Proce- ers for specific details such as equipment must be no differences within samples as-
dure for Home Laundering: Machine operating instructions and other recom- signable to known causes.
Washing (see 15.1). mendations. Consult and follow all appli-
3.2 AATCC TM213, Test Method for cable health and safety regulations (e.g., 9. Specimens
Vertical Wicking Rate of Textiles: to OSHA standards and rules).
Specified Times (see 15.1). 9.1 Liquid may wick up face and back
3.3 ASTM D123, Standard Terminol- 6. Limitations of fabric at different rates. Upon agree-
ogy Relating to Textiles. ment among interested parties, deter-
3.4 ASTM D1331, Standard Test 6.1 Liquids other than distilled or mine whether both fabric sides are to be
Methods for Surface and Interfacial Ten- deionized water (tinted water, dye solu- measured. If only one fabric side is to be
sion of Solutions of Paints, Solvents, So- tions, etc.) may be used in this test. Solu- measured, mark the selected side. If test-
lutions of Surface-Active Agents, and tions of different surface tensions may ing is to be performed after laundering,
Related Materials. yield different results. use a marking pen with permanent ink to
3.5 ASTM E1402, Standard Guide for 6.2 The procedure measures movement denote the fabric side chosen for testing.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM197-2022 407
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
9.2 Upon agreement between inter- specimens as directed in ASTM D1776.
ested parties, determine in which direc- (Use conditions indicated in Table 1 for
tion(s) the fabric will be tested. Textiles, general. Estimate conditioning
9.3 To test the durability of finishes or time as indicated in Table 2 for the appro-
evaluate wicking properties after launder- priate fiber content.) Lay each specimen,
ing, launder fabric swatches or items ac- separately, on a screen or perforated shelf
cording to conditions chosen from of a conditioning/drying rack.10.2 Per-
AATCC LP1 before cutting specimens. form all tests in the standard atmosphere
9.4 Wear gloves and minimize han- for testing (21 ± 2°C [70 ± 4°F], 65 ± 5%
dling of the test specimens as oils trans- RH).
ferred from the skin may affect liquid
movement. 11. Preparation
9.5 Cut specimens at least 100 mm
from the selvage. If testing sewn prod- 11.1. For liquids other than distilled or
ucts, take specimens from different pan- deionized water (including tinted water
els, at least 100 mm away from seams, or dye solution), measure the surface ten-
pockets, plackets and other assembly fea- sion as directed in ASTM D1331.
tures. Take each specimen such that dif- 11.2 Some lightweight or hydrophobic
ferent sets of (fabric) length and width fabrics may float on the water. Before
yarns are present. For nonwoven fabrics, testing, lower one short end of the extra
spread specimens across length and width specimen into water.
of sample. 11.2.1 If the specimen is easily sub-
9.6 Cut 3 specimens, each 25 ± 3 mm merged, proceed with marking remaining
wide and at least 165 mm long. specimens.
9.6.1 Cut the long dimension parallel 11.2.2 If the end of the specimen floats
to the fabric direction(s) being tested. Ac- on the surface of the water, insert a
curate dimensions and alignment of spec- straight pin across the end. Use the mini-
imens are critical for repeatable testing. mum weight necessary to allow the spec-
9.7 Cut an extra specimen to determine imen to submerge. Use the same size pin
for all specimens in the sample. When
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

if a pin is needed to submerge the speci-

men end (see 11.2). comparing results for various samples, it
9.8 Using a marking pen with soluble is best to use the same size pin for all.
ink, mark a line across the width of each 11.2.3 Do not reuse the water or sam-
specimen, 5 ± 1 mm from the end to be ple. Use a clean container and fresh water
submerged, on the fabric side to be for each test.
Fig. 2—Specimen prepared for vertical
tested. The line denotes the level to wicking testing in an Erlenmeyer flask.
which the specimen will be submerged at 12. Procedure
the start of the test (see Fig. 1).
12.1 Perform test on a stable surface to
minimize vibration.
12.2 To test a single specimen in an
Erlenmeyer flask, add approximately 90
mL of water (or alternate liquid) to the
flask. Ensure water depth is at least 10
mm. Ensure that the lip and neck of the
flask remain dry to prevent specimen
from premature contact with water.
12.2.1 Place the flask on a scissor jack
and suspend the specimen in the opening,
above the water line. The specimen
should hang perpendicular to the flask
floor, with no folds or waves. Insert a pin
Fig. 3—Rectangular pan for testing
across the bottom end as needed (see 11.2).
150 mm multiple specimens.
12.2.2 Raise the jack until the speci-
men end is submerged to the 5-mm line
and start the timer.
12.3 To test multiple specimens in a
9.9 Using a marking pen with soluble rectangular pan, suspend specimens with
ink, mark lines across the width of each bottom ends just above the floor of the
specimen, 20 ± 1 mm and 150 ± 1 mm pan. Ensure that no part of any specimens
above the first line (see Fig. 1). is in contact with the pan. The specimens
9.9.1 Alternative wicking distances should hang perpendicular to the pan
20
may be marked depending on the desired floor, with no folds or waves. Insert a pin
mm end use of the fabric. When comparing as needed (see 11.2). It is critical to en-
results, use the same wicking distance for sure the 5-mm line on each specimen is at
5 mm
25 mm
all specimens being compared. the same level before adding water.
12.3.1 Carefully add water to the pan.
10. Conditioning Avoid pouring or splashing water onto
Fig. 1—Vertical wicking specimens. Start a timer as soon as the
specimen and marking. 10.1 Prior to testing, condition test specimens are submerged to the 5-mm

408 AATCC TM197-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
line. tances may be used if the test was termi- cotton jersey knit, (b) 100% cotton inter-
12.4 Monitor the rise of the water, visi- nated before reaching the marks or as lock knit, (c) 100% polyester woven, (d)
ble as migration of the marking ink and/ agreed by interested parties. 100% cotton twill weave, and (e) 50/50
or darkening of the specimen(s). Record 13.2 Calculate the mean short-period cotton/polyester blend woven.
the time, to the nearest second, that it wicking rate for each direction tested, to 15.1.2 Table I shows the means and
takes for the soluble ink at the 20-mm the nearest 0.1 mm/s. confidence intervals for each fabric in the
line to start to migrate. This is the short- 13.2.1 If desired, calculate standard de- length direction. Table II shows the
period wicking time. Multiple observers viation. means and confidence intervals for each
or timers may be necessary to accurately 13.3 Calculate the mean long-period fabric in the width direction.
record the wicking time of multiple spec- wicking rate for each direction tested, to 15.1.3 Between-laboratory precision
imens tested simultaneously in a rec- the nearest 0.1 mm/s. has not been established for this test
tangular pan. If wicking is uneven across 13.3.1 If desired, calculate standard de- method. Until such precision informa-
the width of the specimen, record the viation. tion is available, users of the method
highest point and note observation in the should use standard statistical techniques
test report. 14. Report in making any comparison of test results
12.5 Continue monitoring the rise of for between-laboratory averages.
the water and record, to the nearest sec- 14.1 Describe or identify the sample 15.2 Bias. The true value of vertical
ond, the time that it takes for the soluble tested. wicking rates of textile fabrics can be de-
ink at the 150-mm line to start to migrate. 14.2 Report that the sample was tested fined only in terms of a test method.
This is the long-period wicking time. using AATCC TM197-2022. There is no independent method for de-
12.6 Terminate the test when any of the 14.3 Report the testing conditions: termining the true value. In estimating
following conditions are met: 14.3.1 If testing was performed after this property, the test method has no
12.6.1 Water does not reach the 20-mm laundering, report the laundering condi- known bias.
line within 300 s (5 min.) tions used and the number of cycles com-
12.6.2 Water does not reach the 150- pleted.
mm line within 1,800 s (30.0 min.) 14.3.2 Report the fabric side(s) and di- 16. Notes
12.6.3 Water wicks to the 150-mm rection(s) tested. 16.1 Available from AATCC, PO Box
line. 14.3.3 Report the liquid used, and sur- 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709,
12.7 Measure the distance the water face tension if other than water. USA; +1.919.549.8141; [email protected];
has migrated. Record the time (s), dis- 14.3.4 Report the weight of pin, if used www.aatcc.org.
tance (mm) and the reason for termina- to submerge specimen end. 16.2 For potential apparatus, reagents or
tion of the test. 14.3.5 Report the short- and long- materials sources, visit the AATCC Buyer’s
12.8 For tests in a flask, remove the period wicking distances. Guide at www.aatcc.org/products/bg. AATCC
14.3.6 Report the time at which test provides its Corporate members the option to
specimen from the flask. Repeat the pro- list their items and services. AATCC does not
cedure for the remaining specimens. was terminated, if applicable (see 12.6) qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
12.8.1 Use a clean flask with fresh 14.4 Report the test results: tify that any of the listings meet the specifica-
14.4.1 Report the mean short-period

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
water for each specimen. tions in its standards.
wicking rate for each direction tested. 16.3 Dark fabric colors or prints and de-
13. Calculation 14.4.2 Report the individual specimen signs may be difficult to test. Using soluble
rates or standard deviation for the short marking ink of a contrasting color may help
13.1 Calculate the vertical wicking period, in each direction tested. make the marks more clearly visible. Fluores-
rates using Eq. 1. Two different rates, a 14.4.3 Report the mean long-period cent ink or wicking liquid and observation un-
short period rate and a long period rate, wicking rate for each direction tested. der ultraviolet light (black light), flashlight or
are obtained for each specimen. use of thermal Infra-Red meters may also im-
14.4.4 Report the individual specimen prove visibility.
rates or standard deviation for the long
W = d/t (1) period, in each direction tested.
where: 14.5 Describe any modification(s) of 17. History
W = vertical wicking rate, mm/s the published method.
17.1 Revised in 2022 (with title change) in
d = wicking distance, mm (20 for 2022 to remove wicking rate to specified
short period, 150 for long period, 15. Precision and Bias times (now TM213) and define other parame-
or as agreed) ters. Jurisdiction transferred to RA114.
t = wicking time, s 15.1 Precision. 17.2 Editorially revised 2019. Reaffirmed
15.1.1 Tests for vertical wicking of tex- 2018. Editorially revised 2016. Reaffirmed
NOTE: The standard wicking distance tiles were conducted in 2009, with 1 lab- 2013. Editorially revised and reaffirmed 2012.
is 20 mm for the short period and 150 oratory, 3 operators, and 5 samples. The 17.3 Developed in 2011 by AATCC Com-
mm for the long period. Alternate dis- samples used in the study were (a) 100% mittee RA63.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM197-2022 409
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Summary of Statistics—Length Direction (rate in mm/s)
Jersey Interlock Polyester Woven Cotton Woven Poly/Cotton Woven
RECTANGULAR PAN METHOD SHORT PERIOD
Mean 1.6 0.2 2.6 1.4 0.3
Standard Deviation 0.5 0.1 0.9 0.4 0.1
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.3 0.0 0.4 0.2 0.1
FLASK METHOD SHORT PERIOD
Mean 1.4 0.4 2.6 1.3 0.3
Standard Deviation 0.4 0.1 0.7 0.6 0.0
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.2 0.1 0.4 0.3 0.0
RECTANGULAR PAN METHOD LONG PERIOD
Mean 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.1
Standard Deviation 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
FLASK METHOD LONG PERIOD
Mean 0.1 0.0 0.1 0.1 0.1
Standard Deviation 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Table II—Summary of Statistics—Width Direction (rate in mm/s)

Jersey Interlock Polyester Woven Cotton Woven Poly/Cotton Woven
RECTANGULAR PAN METHOD SHORT PERIOD
Mean 1.9 0.9 2.3 1.0 0.3
Standard Deviation 0.7 0.2 0.7 0.3 0.1
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.3 0.1 0.4 0.1 0.1
FLASK METHOD SHORT PERIOD
Mean 1.8 1.0 2.2 1.2 0.2
Standard Deviation 0.6 0.4 0.7 0.7 0.1
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.3 0.2 0.4 0.3 0.1
RECTANGULAR PAN METHOD LONG PERIOD
Mean 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.0
Standard Deviation 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level(95.0%) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
FLASK METHOD LONG PERIOD
Mean 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.0
Standard Deviation 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0
Count 18 18 18 18 18
Confidence Level (95.0%) 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

410 AATCC TM197-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM198-2011e3(2020)e

Test Method for Horizontal Wicking of Textiles

Foreword (ASTM D123 and see 14.3). deionized water (tinted water, dye solu-
3.2 horizontal wicking, n.—in tex- tions, etc.) may be used to evaluate the
Historically, the textile industry has tiles, the movement of liquid across the wicking of textiles. If a liquid other than
utilized many different test procedures horizontal plane of a textile from a site water is chosen, its surface tension
for determining the wicking characteris- where a specific volume has been ap- should be measured and reported as solu-
tics of textile fabrics, i.e., the movement plied. tions of different surface tensions may
of water or liquid through fabrics. Within 3.3 horizontal wicking rate, n.—the yield different results.
the last decade, the industry has devel- change in the area of the liquid with re- 5.4 Dark fabric colors or prints and de-
oped new technologies that have changed spect to time as the liquid travels through signs may be difficult to test. The use of a
water movement and absorbency re- a textile. soluble ink of a contrasting color may
sponses of textiles leading to the use of 3.4 wicking, n.—in textiles, the move- help in making the liquid more clearly
the labeling term “moisture management of a liquid, by capillary action, visible.
ment” to describe these phenomena. along or through a material.
While, traditionally, wicking tests mea- 5.5 The results obtained by this test are
3.5 wicking distance, n.—the linear not a measure of comfort which is be-
sured the movement of liquids through measurement that the liquid travels along
the vertical plane of fabrics (commonly yond the scope of this method.
or through a textile from a starting point 5.6 The relationship between vertical
referred to as vertical wicking), (see to a stopping point.
AATCC TM197, Test Method for Verti- and horizontal wicking test results is not
3.6 wicking time, n.—the measurable known. Caution should be used when
cal Wicking of Textiles), the improve- period during which liquid travels along
ments in the last decade have also led to comparing results using different align-
or through a textile. ments.
an interest in measuring the movement of
liquids across the horizontal plane of fab- 4. Safety Precautions
ric surfaces (horizontal wicking). Many 6. Apparatus, Reagents, Materials
interested groups (textile manufacturers, NOTE: These safety precautions are
chemical suppliers, and retailers, as well for information purposes only. The pre- 6.1 Distilled or deionized water at 21 ±
as independent testing laboratories) par- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- 2°C (70 ± 4°F).
ticipated in the efforts to standardize test dures and are not intended to be all inclu- 6.2 Marking pens, with fine point, per-
methods to measure the vertical and hori- sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use manent and soluble ink (see 14.2).
zontal wicking properties of fabrics with safe and proper techniques in handling 6.3 Stopwatch or digital timer.
moisture management attributes. materials in this test method. Manufac- 6.4 Tape or ruler, mm graduations.
Unofficial techniques for determining turers MUST be consulted for specific 6.5 Surface tensiometer, if using liquid
the absorbency and wicking properties of details such as material safety data sheets other than water (see 10.1).
textile fabrics were published in the 2004 and other manufacturer’s recommenda- 6.6 Beaker or Petri dish.
AATCC/ASTM International’s Techni- tions. All OSHA standards and rules 6.7 Burette, 10 (± 0.05 mL) mL with
cal Supplement: A Compilation of Proce- must also be consulted and followed. 0.5 mL numbered graduations that allows
dures and Guidelines for Textile Products 4.1 Good laboratory practices should a delivery rate of 15-25 drops per millili-
and the 2008 AATCC/ASTM Interna- be followed. Wear safety glasses in all ter, or handheld electronic pipette.
tional’s Moisture Management Technical laboratory areas. 6.8 Embroidery hoop, 152 ± 5 mm (6.0
Supplement: Applicable to Apparel, Lin- ± 0.2 in.) diameter (see 14.1).
ens and Soft Goods (see 14.1). This test 5. Uses and Limitations
method is based on the testing procedures 6.9 Laboratory sealing film (optional).
for wicking published in those Technical 5.1 This method is primarily applica- 6.10 Ring stand and clamp.
Supplements. ble to fabrics that absorb the full volume 6.11 Template, 100 ± 3 mm diameter.
of the test liquid, without pooling on the
1. Purpose and Scope surface or allowing dripping. If the full 7. Sampling
volume of the test liquid is not available
1.1 This test method is used to evaluate to measure the wicking rate, inconsistent 7.1 Determine whether the fabric has a
the ability of horizontally aligned fabric results should be expected. Hence, the re- hydrophobic or hydrophilic side. Upon
specimens to transport liquid along and/ sults obtained on fabrics that fully absorb agreement between interested parties, de-
or through them, and is applicable to wo- the test liquid cannot be compared with termine whether both fabric sides are to
ven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics. those obtained on fabrics that do not. In be tested. If only one fabric side is to be
addition, the movement of liquid within a tested, mark the selected side. If testing is
2. Principle fabric may be influenced by fiber con- to be performed after laundering, use a
tent, fabric construction, mechanical or marking pen with permanent ink to de-
2.1 The rate (area per unit of time) liq- chemical processing or a combination of note the fabric side chosen for testing.
uid travels through a fabric specimen is these. 7.2 All specimens should be cut at least
visually observed, manually timed and 5.2 This method evaluates the wicking 100 ± 5 mm from the selvage. If testing
recorded at specified intervals. ability of horizontally aligned test speci- garments, take specimens from different
mens to distilled or deionized water. In garment panels away from seams, pock-
3. Terminology this test, wicking may be influenced by ets, plackets or other assembly features.
the properties of the test liquid, but not by Each specimen shall be taken so that dif-
3.1 fabric, n.—in textiles, a planar gravity. ferent sets of length and width yarns are
structure made from yarns or fibers 5.3 Liquids other than distilled or present.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM198-2011e3(2020)e 411
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
8. Specimens Agents (see 14.3) and reported. determined in 10.3.1, and dispense 1.0 ±
10.2 Use a template and a fine-point 0.1 mL of water from the 10 ± 1 mm
8.1 Cut five specimens, 200 × 200 ± 5 marking pen with soluble ink to mark a height onto the center of the 100 ± 3 mm
mm, aligned with the fabric selvage or 100 ± 3 mm diameter circle in the middle marked circle. A handheld electronic pi-
longitudinal alignment of the garment of each specimen. Mark the circle on the pette may be used instead of a burette but
panels. For testing horizontal wicking of side of the fabric to be tested. The place- the same height of 10 ± 1 mm from the
garment samples, it may not be necessary ment of the water volume for the test is to fabric surface should be maintained. Im-
to cut out individual specimens. be in the center of the circle (see Fig. 1). mediately after opening the stopcock or
8.2 Cut an extra specimen from either pressing the dispense button, start the
10.3 Fill a 10.0 mL burette with dis-
fabric or garment samples to determine timer. The test should be terminated
tilled or deionized water and lower the
placement of the drop in the center of the when the water reaches the 100 ± 3 mm
water level to the top graduation level,
marked circle before starting the testing circle. Record the distance the liquid has
sighting to the bottom of the meniscus.
(see 10.2). spread in the length and width direction
8.3 If testing the durability of finishes 10.3.1 Insert a trial specimen into an
embroidery hoop, ensuring that its sur- of the fabric and the time elapsed.
or evaluating wicking properties after 10.6 The test should be terminated if
laundering, take specimens as described face is taut, without creases or wrinkles.
Place the embroidery hoop horizontally the water stops migrating and does not
in 8.1 from fabric swatches that have reach the 100 ± 3 mm circle in 5 ± 0.1
been laundered according to conditions on the top of the beaker or Petri dish.
Lower the burette so that the tip is 10 ± 1 min. Record the time that the test was ter-
chosen from the AATCC LP1. minated.
mm above the fabric surface. Slowly
open the burette stopcock to verify that 10.7 Repeat steps 10.4-10.6 for each
9. Conditioning 1.0 ± 0.1 mL volume of water can be dis- remaining specimen.
9.1 Condition specimens for at least 4 pensed into the center of the marked cir-
h in an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± cle. Determine (and record) the approxi- 11. Calculation
4°F), 65 ± 5% RH prior to testing accord- mate position of the stopcock opening
that ensures a consistent delivery of the 11.1 Record the time to the nearest sec-
ing to ASTM D1776, Standard Practice ond for each specimen.
for Conditioning and Testing Textiles (see test liquid, i.e., the position that permits
delivery of the specified number of drops 11.2 Calculate the horizontal wicking
14.3). rate for each specimen and the average
9.2 Perform all tests in the standard at- of the test liquid in 10 ± 2 s. Discard the
trial specimen. wicking rate for each sample. Use for-
mosphere for testing. mula 1 below for the calculation of hori-
10.4 Insert test specimen into the em-
broidery hoop with the chosen fabric side zontal wicking rate:
10. Procedure
to be tested facing up for exposure to the W = π(1/4)(d1)(d2)/t (Eq. 1)
10.1 If necessary, the surface tension of water. The use of laboratory sealing film
the chosen liquid (including tinted water on the embroidery hoop ring surfaces where:
or dye solution) should be measured as may be utilized to prevent slippage of W = wicking rate, mm2/s
directed in ASTM D1331-89, Standard light weight fabric and help maintain a d1 = wicking distance in length direc-
Test Methods for Surface and Interfacial taut fabric surface. tion, mm and d2 = wicking dis-
Tensions of Solutions of Surface-Active 10.5 Open the stopcock, to the position tance in width direction, mm
t = wicking time, s
11.3 The wicking rate can be calcu-
lated from either the time it takes to reach
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

the edge of the circle or the distance trav-

eled in the 5.0 ± 0.1 min time period.

12. Report and Interpretation

12.1 Report the wicking time, the
wicking distance in the length and width
direction, and the average wicking rate
Burette – Tip of burette 10 mm above for each sample. Report any dripping or
specimen surface pooling of test liquid.
12.2 Report if a solution other than dis-
tilled or deionized water at 21 ± 2°C (70
± 4°F) was used and its surface tension
Embroidery hoop with and temperature.
200 × 200 mm specimen 12.3 Report if testing was performed
after laundering, the laundering condi-
tions used and the number of launderings
completed.
Beaker – 2L to accommodate 12.4 Shorter horizontal wicking times
152 mm diameter embroidery hoop indicate faster wicking (see 5.1 and 5.5).

13. Precision and Bias

13.1 Precision.
13.1.1 Interlaboratory Study. Tests for
wicking of textiles using horizontal ori-
entations were conducted in 2009, with
Fig. 1—Horizontal alignment test configuration. one laboratory, three operators, and five

412 AATCC TM198-2011e3(2020)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
samples. The five samples used in the the fabric was significant, the results, Table II—Statistical Results
study were: (a) 100% cotton jersey knit, shown in Table II, for each of the three (rate in mm2/s)1
(b) 100% cotton interlock knit, (c) 100% fabrics are separate. The analysis is being
100% 100% 100%
cotton twill weave, (d) 50/50 cotton/poly- retained for reference at the AATCC Cotton Cotton Cotton
ester blend woven, and (e) 100% polyes- Technical Center. Jersey Interlock Woven
ter woven. However, two of the woven 13.1.3 Between-laboratory precision Average 53 23 78
samples (d and e) were found to be not has not been established for this test Std Dev 13 6.0 50
suitable for the measurement of horizon- method. Until such precision informa- 95% CI 5.0 2.0 18
tal wicking, as water pooled on the sur- tion is available, users of the method
face and did not spread during the test. should use standard statistical techniques 1
All values in this table are expressed with exactly two
Therefore, the single lab precision state- in making any comparison of test results significant figures.
ment shown is based on only three fab- for between-laboratory averages.
rics: two knits and one woven. 13.2 Bias. The true value of horizontal
13.1.2 The data is shown in Table I. wicking rates of textile fabrics can be de-
The analysis of variance technique was fined only in terms of a test method. this property, the test method has no
applied to the data set. Because the There is no independent method for de- known bias.
ANOVA indicated that the effect due to termining the true value. In estimating
14. Notes
14.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
2 1
12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
Table I—Data (rate in mm /s) +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
[email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
Operator 1 Operator 1 Operator 2 Operator 2 Operator 3 Operator 3 14.2 A suitable marking pen contains ink
Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2 Day 1 Day 2 that is water soluble, available commercially
100% such as Paper Mate® Flair® Fiber Tip Pen
Cotton Jersey 40 60 37 39 44 68 from Sanford Corporation, 2707 Butterfield
34 57 84 70 56 62 Rd., Oak Brook IL 60523; tel: +1.630.481.
41 32 51 60 59 61 2200; fax: +1.866.666.8735; web site: www.
64 47 68 48 41 60 papermate.com.
60 58 55 30 62 46 14.3 Available from ASTM International,
100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
100% 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
Cotton Interlock 29 25 24 40 23 22 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
28 22 25 16 19 19
27 17 35 29 19 22
16 19 31 20 21 19
15. History
37 14 18 18 27 20 15.1 Jurisdiction transferred in 2022 to
100% AATCC Committee RA114; Editorially re-
Cotton Woven 120 49 33 120 43 31 vised to note the change.
47 90 130 110 46 140 15.2 Reaffirmed 2020
47 45 130 170 38 35 15.3 Reaffirmed 2018, 2013. Editorially re-
76 66 160 220 44 29 vised and reaffirmed 2012. Editorially revised
98 51 43 71 27 43 2019, 2016.
15.4 Developed in 2011 by AATCC Com-
1
All values in this table are expressed with exactly two significant figures. mittee RA63.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
AATCC TM198-2011e3(2020)e 413
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM199-2013e(2018)e2

Test Method for Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer

Developed in 2011 by AATCC Commit- NOTE: Drying rate is dependent upon chemical processing or a combination of
tee RA63; jurisdiction transferred in textile construction, fiber content, apparel these aspects.
2022 to AATCC Committee RA114; reaf- construction, finishes, the atmosphere in 5.2 Other factors that may influence
firmed 2018; revised 2012, 2013; edito- which the test is performed, and the vol- drying include the temperature and hu-
rially revised 2017, 2019, 2022. ume challenge of the liquid. midity conditions of the test and the
3.2 drying time, n.—the time it takes amount of liquid to be dried. This test
for a specified amount of liquid to evapo- method is performed in non-standard tex-
Foreword rate from a textile under controlled test- tile testing conditions. Since this test can
Historically, the textile industry has ing conditions. be performed at various temperature set-
utilized many different test procedures NOTE: In this test method the amount tings of the moisture analyzer, test tem-
for determining the drying characteristics of water is determined in a preparatory peratures can be selected to simulate the
of textile fabrics, whether those charac- step so that the specimen is wet-out to a temperature of a human body at rest, dur-
teristics are drying rate, time or some given level. The testing conditions are ing exercise, or when exposed to outdoor
other drying parameter. Within the last controlled by the analyzer. temperatures.
decade, the industry has developed new 3.3 endpoint, n.—the point of termina- 5.3 This method is based on the appli-
technologies that have resulted in an im- tion of a drying test that is either to the cation of a controlled amount of water to
provement in these characteristics, as one original dry weight of a specimen or test specimens, measurement of the dry-
of many attributes associated with the use some other agreed value such as dry ing rate of that application, and calcula-
of the term “moisture management.” weight +4.0% moisture content. tion of the moisture retention based on
Many interested groups (textile manufac- 3.4 moisture retention, adj.—for this that application.
turers, chemical suppliers, retailers, as test method, the percent moisture reten- 5.4 This method is limited to fabrics
well as independent testing laboratories) tion of the specimen after being sub- with at least one side that exhibits an ab-
participated in the effort to develop and merged in deionized water for 1 min, and sorbency time within 30 ± 2 s (see
publish standard test methods to measure hanging vertically for 5 min in a con- AATCC TM79, Test Method for Absor-
the drying characteristics of fabrics. Un- trolled environment (see 9.3.2 and for- bency of Textiles). It is not applicable to
official techniques for determining the mula 1). fabrics that exhibit an absorbency of
drying properties of textile fabrics were 3.5 test side, n.—the side, either the more than 30 s, as in such fabrics water
published in the 2008 AATCC/ASTM In- face or back of a specimen, which is up- would begin evaporating from the surface
ternational’s Moisture Management Tech- permost when placed on the moisture bal- of the fabric as the temperature is being
nical Supplement: Applicable to Apparel, ance analyzer support platform; the side raised, thereby skewing the results.
Linens and Soft Goods. This test method onto which the test volume of water is ap- 5.5 One possible use of this method is
formalizes an additional technique that plied. to compare the moisture retention charac-
has been used by several companies. 3.6 weight loss, n.—the difference be- teristics of untreated versus treated fab-
tween the saturated weight of a specimen rics, or to compare the moisture retention
1. Purpose and Scope and the weight after drying. characteristics of a textile material with
3.7 wet pick-up, n.—in textile process- or without an additive.
1.1 This test method is intended to ing, the amount of liquid, and material 5.6 The results obtained by this test are
evaluate the drying time of knit, woven carried by the liquid, applied to a textile. not a measure of comfort which is be-
or nonwoven fabrics at an elevated tem- yond the scope of this method.
perature using a gravimetric moisture an- 4. Safety Precautions 5.7 The relationship between drying
alyzer. By performing the test at non- time measured by this test and absor-
standard textile testing conditions, it is NOTE: These safety precautions are
bency has not been defined. Although
possible to simulate drying at body tem- for information purposes only. The pre-
TM79 is used in the preparatory steps to
perature or to perform testing at tempera- cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-
determine which side of a fabric should
tures that simulate conditions of use. dures and are not intended to be all inclu-
be used in testing, this test does not mea-
sive. It is the users’ responsibility to use
sure absorbency.
2. Principle safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac-
2.1 Water is applied to the test speci- turers MUST be consulted for specific 6. Apparatus and Materials
men and then dried at a pre-selected tem- details such as material safety data sheets 6.1 Moisture analyzer with a ceramic
perature (37° ± 2°C [99 ± 4°F]); if an al- and other manufacturers’ recommenda- heating element and accurate to at least
ternative temperature is used it should be tions. All OSHA standards and rules 0.001 g (see 14.1).
reported, in an automated moisture ana- must also be consulted and followed.
6.2 Deionized water.
lyzer. The time required for a test speci- 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
men to reach a designated endpoint is be followed. Wear safety glasses in all 6.3 Vertical specimen stand. The stand
measured and recorded as the drying laboratory areas. should have a horizontal hanger of suit-
time. able size to hang the specimen using
binder clips. (see Fig. 2).
5. Uses and Limitations 6.4 Tweezers.
3. Terminology
5.1 The drying of a fabric may be in- 6.5 400 mL beaker.
3.1 drying rate, n.—the change in vol- fluenced by fiber content, fabric con- 6.6 Wire screen—standard 0.25 × 0.25
ume per unit time of a liquid that evapo- struction (e.g., thickness or raised sur- in. mesh (see 14.2).
rates from a textile. face, such as fleece), mechanical or 6.7 Specimen support platform (see

414 AATCC TM199-2013e(2018)e2 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

7. Specimens
7.1 Cut ten 70 ± 1 mm round speci-
mens diagonally across the width of a
sample, to ensure that different sets of
length and width yarns are in each speci- Fig. 3—Specimen support platform.
men or from different sites from a prod-
uct are taken. If the sample being tested is
not large enough to cut ten 70 ± 1 mm di-
ameter specimens across the width, it is
acceptable to test a smaller specimen
size, but must be reported with the test re-
sults. Two of the specimens are to be
used for the preliminary steps, and eight
are for the testing (see Section 9).

8. Conditioning
8.1 Place the specimens on a flat
smooth, horizontal surface without tension
before testing. Condition them to moisture
equilibrium in a standard atmosphere for
Fig. 2—Vertical specimen stand.
testing according to ASTM D1776, Stan- Fig. 4—Placement of specimen
dard Practice for Conditioning and Testing on support platform.
Textiles, Table I, Textiles, General (see
14.3). the specimen in water, as shown in Fig. 1.
9.3.1 Using tweezers, remove the spec-
9. Preparation imen after 1 min and hang on the vertical
stand, as shown in Fig. 2.
9.1 Turn on the moisture analyzer to 37 9.3.2 After 5 min, remove the speci-
± 2°C (99 ± 4°F) and allow it to warm up men with tweezers. Weigh and record the
for at least 30 min. specimen weight (W2). Use formula 1 to
9.2 Using TM79, place a drop of water determine the moisture retention.
on the face of an extra fabric specimen to
judge absorbency; on the back of another Moisture Retention (%) =
extra specimen, repeat to determine W2 – W1
which is the most absorbent side to use -------------------- * 100 (Eq. 1)
for testing. If there is no difference, either W1
side can be used for testing by this where: Fig. 5—Placement of
method. If both sides of the specimen W1 = dry weight, in g wire screen on top of specimen.
have absorbency times greater than 30 s, W2 = saturated weight, in g
see 5.4.
9.3 Weigh and record the original Use formula 2 to determine the amount
9.5 Follow the manufacturer’s instruc-
weight (W1) of the specimen. Submerge of water to add to the fabric:
tion for setting the program operation.
x *W The test endpoint should be agreed upon
y = --------------1- (Eq. 2) by interested parties.
100
where: 10. Procedure
y = amount of water to add, in mL
x = moisture retention (see result of 10.1 Open the sample chamber and
formula 1) place the support platform and wire
W1 = dry weight, in g screen in the sample chamber (as shown
in Fig. 3).
NOTE: This equation assumes the den- 10.2 Tare the moisture analyzer. Place
sity of water is 1 g/mL at 25°C (77°F). the specimen with the selected test side
9.4 Set the electronic motorized pipette up on the support platform (see Fig. 4).
to pickup and dispense the calculated 10.3 Using an electronic motorized pi-
amount of water determined in 9.3. This pette, apply the specified amount of
amount will be used for all specimens deionized water in a uniform manner
from a sample without regard to variation over the surface of the specimen.
in weight of individual specimens from 10.4 Place the wire screen on top of the
Fig. 1—Submersion of specimen in water. the same sample. specimen (see Fig. 5) and start the ana-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM199-2013e(2018)e2 415
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
lyzer and software (if applicable). The age drying time and standard deviation, and (e) 100% polyester interlock knit.
moisture analyzer or the software will au- amount of water applied, temperature, 13.2 Table I Statistical Summary. Data
tomatically terminate the test when the and the end point. includes mean drying time, standard de-
selected endpoint is reached. 12.2 If the specimens tested were not viation and the 95% confidence level for
10.5 Repeat 10.1-10.4 for remaining 70 ± 1 mm in diameter, report the speci- both operators.
specimens. men diameter used. 13.3 Between-laboratory precision has
10.6 Record the drying time to the not been established for this test method.
nearest minute for each specimen. Until such precision information is avail-
13. Precision and Bias
able, users of the method should use stan-
11. Calculations and Evaluation dard statistical techniques in making any
13.1 Precision. Tests for drying time of
11.1 Calculate the average drying textiles using a moisture analyzer were comparison of test results for between-
time and the standard deviation for the conducted in 2010, with one laboratory, laboratory averages.
sample. two operators, and five samples. The five 13.4 Bias. The true value of the drying
samples used in this study were (a) 100% time of textile fabrics can be defined only
12. Report cotton interlock knit, (b) 100% polyester in terms of a test method. There is no in-
twill weave, (c) 100% cotton jersey knit, dependent method for determining the
12.1 Report moisture retention, aver- (d) 65/35 polyester/cotton blend woven, true value. In estimating this property, the
test method has no known bias.

Table I—Statistical Summary Data 14. Notes

Operator 1 Operator 2 14.1 These items may be obtained from any
Drying Time Mean Drying Mean Drying lab equipment supplier.
by Fabric Time, min Std Dev 95% CI Time, min Std Dev 95% CI 14.2 This item may be obtained from any
A 147 4.7 3 158 5.2 4 hardware or home improvement store.
B 115 4.2 3 121 4.5 3 14.3 Available from ASTM International,
C 73 2.5 2 78 2.6 2 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
D 28 1.7 1 28 1.3 1 19428; tel: +1.610. 832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
E 85 1.8 1 93 3.5 2 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

416 AATCC TM199-2013e(2018)e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM200-2017e2

Test Method for Drying Rate of Textiles

at their Absorbent Capacity: Air Flow
Developed in 2012 by AATCC Committee sections of the temperature versus time 6.4 Variable volume micropipette(s)
RA63; jurisdiction transferred in 2022 plot (see Fig. 2 and 11.2). (range from 0.050 to 1.000 ± 0.8% mL)
to AATCC Committee RA114; reaffirmed 3.5 start time, n.—the time at which the (see Fig. 4) or a high precision pump.
2013, 2014; revised 2015, 2017; edito- water challenge is added to the specimen. 6.5 Paper towels, 5 × 14 cm, a color
rially revised 2016, 2019, 2022. that will exhibit a color change when wet
4. Safety Precautions (light blue preferred) (see Fig. 1).
Foreword NOTE: These safety precautions are for 6.6 Anemometer—hot wire-type, capa-
information purposes only. The precautions ble of measuring air flow from 0.1 to 5.0
As moisture management products ± 0.1 m/s (see Fig. 1).
have entered the marketplace, measure- are ancillary to the testing procedures and
are not intended to be all inclusive. It is the 6.7 Embroidery hoop (see 14.1).
ment of the drying characteristics of 6.8 Deionized or distilled water.
textiles has gained additional importance. user’s responsibility to use safe and proper
techniques in handling materials in this test 6.9 Rigid material (e.g., cardstock) for
The 2008 AATCC-ASTM International
method. Manufacturers MUST be circular mounting template.
Moisture Management Technical Supple-
consulted for specific details such as 6.10 Water drop detection sensor, capa-
ment: Applicable to Apparel, Linens, and
materials safety data sheets and other ble of detecting a water drop after it has
Soft Goods contains three techniques for
manufacturer’s recommendations. All passed through a test specimen (optional).
the measurement of drying times of
textiles. This test method is an additional OSHA standards and rules must also be 6.11 Commercially available tester
approach to the drying test methods consulted and followed. (see 14.3).
outlined in the Technical Supplement. 4.1 Good laboratory practices should
7. Sampling
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all
1. Purpose and Scope laboratory areas. 7.1 Take rolls representative of a lot
1.1 This test method determines the 4.2 The manufacturer’s safety recom- sample. If testing a textile from end
drying rate of textiles at their absorbent mendations should be followed when items, take three items from each lot.
capacity. operating laboratory testing equipment.
8. Test Specimens
1.2 This method is not for testing the
drying rate for textiles taken from socks 5. Uses and Limitations 8.1 From each textile sample, cut three
or hosiery. 5.1 This test is performed under specimens (15.0 × 15.0 ± 0.5 cm) from
controlled laboratory temperature and right, center, and left locations across the
2. Principle relative humidity conditions. sample width for each test.
2.1 This method determines the drying 5.2 In order to provide consistent 8.2 If testing garments or end-products,
rate of textiles based on the evaporation results, consistent air flow is needed. The take specimens from different sections of
rate that occurs at their approximate apparatus used in this method uses 2.5 ± the garment; i.e., sleeve, back and front.
absorbent capacity. 0.5 m/s air flow through a 13 ± 0.1 cm 8.3 Construct a circular mounting tem-
diameter opening with no specimen plate (see 6.9) the size of the tester open-
3. Terminology present. The results will vary if other ing (13 ± 0.1 cm diam). Trace the tem-
rates of air flow are used. While the test plate on the back side of the specimen.
3.1 absorbent capacity, n.—the max- may be performed at alternative
imum amount of liquid a material can conditions, for comparison of results, the 9. Conditioning
hold; dependent on the specific test same conditions must be used.
method used. 9.1 Prior to testing, condition test
5.3 This method is limited to textiles— specimens as directed in ASTM D1776,
3.2 drying rate, n.—the change in
tested on the non-face side—that exhibit Standard Practice for Conditioning and
volume per unit time a liquid evaporates
a maximum absorbency time of 30 s as Testing Textiles (see 14.2). Condition the
from a textile.
measured by AATCC TM79, Test specimens for at least 4 h in an
NOTE: Drying rate is dependent upon
Method for Absorbency of Textiles (see atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F), 65
textile construction, fiber content, apparel
14.1). It is not applicable to textiles that ± 5% RH, by laying each specimen
construction, finishes, the atmosphere in
exhibit absorbency of more than 30 s. separately on a screen or perforated shelf
which the test is performed, and the
volume challenge of the liquid. of a conditioning rack.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

6. Apparatus and Materials 9.2 Perform all tests in the standard

3.3 drying time, n.—the time it takes
for a specified amount of liquid to 6.1 Temperature recorder, with capa- atmosphere for testing.
evaporate from a textile under controlled bilities to take readings every 1 s, data
storage and transmittal to computer data 10. Procedure
testing conditions.
NOTE: In this test method a series of file (see Fig. 1). 10.1 Mount the textile face down with
different amounts of water are used to 6.2 Infrared thermocouple probe— the traced circle at the rim of the hoop
challenge the specimen. The testing temperature range of 15.0-50.0 ± 0.1°C (see 6.7) to ensure even tension across
conditions are controlled by the analyzer (59.0-122.0 ± 0.18°F) (see Fig. 1). the specimen. The specimen should not
and room conditions. 6.3 Fan box (16.5 ± 0.1 × 16.5 ± 0.1 × sag in the middle of the hoop before the
3.4 end time, n.—the time at which the 27.5 ± 0.1 cm) which generates 2.5 ± 0.5 fan is turned on.
temperature goes through an inflection m/s of air flow through a 13.0 ± 0.1 cm 10.2 Using AATCC TM79 (see 14.1),
between the steepest slope and the flat diameter opening (see Fig. 1). place a drop of water on the specimen

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM200-2017e2 417
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
and determine the absorbency. If the
absorbency is less than or equal to 30 s
then proceed with the test. If greater than
30 s, then stop test. Textiles with an ab-
sorbency time greater than 30 s cannot be
tested with this method. Allow the
specimen to dry for 5 min with the fan
turned on, then turn the fan off.
10.3 Insert a blue paper towel (see 6.5)
into the fan assembly if using an apparatus
with transparent walls. If the apparatus
has opaque walls, the use of a sensor to
detect water is required (see 6.10).
10.4 Turn on the fan.
10.5 After 5 min measure the tem-
perature of the textile. This temperature is
the dry, equilibrated temperature of the
textile.
10.6 Dispense 0.100 ± 0.003 mL of
water onto the surface of the specimen
with the pipette touching specimens. If
delivering water manually, the pipette
should be held at a 45° angle. Observe if
any water passed through the specimen
onto the paper towel.
10.6.1 The delivery rate of the water is
critical. To keep a constant delivery rate,
deliver that water at a speed of 0.200 ±
0.0016 mL/s. Deliver the water while
touching the pipette to the textile. Alter-
nately, a peristaltic pump or a tube with a
valve may be used to deliver water at a
consistent speed of 0.200 ± 0.0016 mL/s.
The tube can be prefilled with the correct
amount of water using a pipette.
10.7 If the paper towel is wet, allow the
specimen to dry. Replace the wet paper
towel in the tray with a new paper towel.
Fig. 1—Different views of the apparatus used to perform test. Reduce the volume in the pipette by 10%,
and repeat 10.6. If water did not leak, let
the sample dry, then increase the volume
by 0.100 mL and test again. Repeat until
the absorbent capacity can be estimated
(see 10.8).
10.8 The maximum volume of water
that is absorbed by the textile without
passing through and wetting the paper
towel is equivalent to the absorbent
capacity (Vm) for this method.
10.9 Position the IR thermocouple
probe in the middle of the specimen 1 cm
above the surface. Adjustment of the
thermocouple probe may be necessary as
test specimens will sag slightly after the
fan is turned on.
10.10 Remove the water detection tray.
Close port to the shelf.
10.11 Let the specimen dry by waiting
for the temperature to return to the value
determined in 10.5.
10.12 Place the anemometer probe
above and near the center of the specimen.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Record air speed through the specimen.

10.13 Select the maximum amount of
water to be at least 10% less than Vm.
Select four additional volumes of water at
approximately 10%, 25%, 50%, and 75%
of the maximum amount. For example, a
Fig. 2—Plot of temperature versus time. textile with a Vm = 0.470 mL the volumes

418 AATCC TM200-2017e2 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
would be 0.050, 0.100, 0.200, 0.300, and
0.400 ± 0.001 mL.
10.14 Start the testing process by
recording temperature data and deliver-
ing the first of a series of increasing
volumes of water on the specimen in the
area of the IR thermocouple probe view.
10.15 Record data every second until
the temperature returns to the starting
temperature.
10.16 Repeat 10.11-10.15 for each of
the other four selected volumes of water.
11. Calculation and Evaluation
11.1 View the data on the recorder or
plot the temperature versus time data
using a spreadsheet program for each of
the three specimens.
11.2 Determine the start and end times
on the graph. The start time is when the
water is added to the specimen (Time 0 in
Fig. 2). The end time is the time at the
intersection of the section with the Fig. 3—Plot of drying rate versus challenge volume.
steepest slope and the flat section of the
temperature plot. To determine this
intersection time value two linear fits are Table II—Critical Differences for
required. Generate a linear fit for the Averages, 95% Probability
steepest section of the plot by choosing
seven data points within the steepest Within- Between-
portion of the plot (Slope 1 in Fig. 2). n Laboratory Laboratories
Generate a linear fit for the flat section of 1 2.449 6.927
temperature plot by choosing 25 data 2 1.734 4.906
points after the inflection in the 3 1.414 3.999
temperature plot (Slope 2 in Fig. 2). The 4 1.224 3.464
end time is the intersection of the two 5 1.095 3.098
linear lines. The drying time is the 6 1.000 2.828
difference of the end time and start time. Fig. 4—Example of micropipette.
11.3 Calculate the drying rate (R),
using formula 1: volume and the absorbent capacity for critical differences shown in Table II.
R = V/Drying Time (Eq. 1) each textile. Determine an average and Differences between two averages of (n)
where: standard deviation for Rmax for each specimens should reach or exceed the
R = drying rate, in mL/h textile along with the linear flow rate of table value to be statistically significant
V = volume of water used in the test, air through the textile. at the 95% confidence level. A 2011
in mL single-lab study had similar within-
Drying Time = End time – Start Time,
13. Precision and Bias laboratory differences.
convert seconds to hours 13.1 Precision. 13.2 Bias. The drying rate can be
Example: R = 0.100 (mL)/0.022 (h) = 13.1.1 In 2017, an interlaboratory defined only in terms of a test method.
4.5 mL/h study was completed, which included There is no independent method for
11.4 Plot Ri (mL/h) versus Vi (mL) (see three laboratories with single operators, determining the true value. As a means of
Fig. 3) where i represents each volume testing three specimens of each of three estimating this property, the method has
challenge. fabrics. Mean values for drying rate of no known bias.
11.5 Fit the plot of R versus V to each fabric are shown in Table I. All
Equation 2 using a non-linear least tested fabrics were 100% polyester 14. Notes
squares fitting algorithm: circular knits. Fabric A was a 130-g/m2
14.1 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box
double knit. Fabric B was a 178-g/m2
R = a[1-exp(-bV)] (Eq. 2) 12215, Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel:
tricot knit. Fabric C was a 207-g/m2 +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.549.8933; e-mail:
where: double knit. No prior assessment was
R = Drying Rate, in mL/h [email protected]; web site: www.aatcc.org.
made of the participating laboratories on 14.2 Available from ASTM International,
V = volume of water used, in mL performance of the test method.
a and b = fitting constants 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
13.1.2 Analysis of the data yielded 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500: fax: +1.610.832.
11.6 The fit yields constants a and b.
9555; web site: www.astm.org.
The fit for Fig. 3 is a = 11.9 mL/h and b =
14.3 For potential equipment information
4.7 mL-1.
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Table I—Interlaboratory pertaining to this test method, please visit the

11.7 The drying rate at the absorbent Precision Study Results online AATCC Buyer’s Guide at www.aatcc.
capacity (Rmax) is a. In Fig. 3 Rmax is 12 org/bg. AATCC provides the possibility of
mL/h. Fabric n Mean (mL/h) St Dev listing equipment and materials sold by its
Corporate members, but AATCC does not
12. Report A 9 23.92 3.13
qualify, or in any way approve, endorse or cer-
B 9 8.611 1.34 tify that any of the listed equipment or materi-
12.1 Report the drying rate at each C 9 17.11 1.76 als meets the requirements in its test methods.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM200-2017e2 419
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM201-2012(2014)e3

Test Method for Drying Rate of Fabrics: Heated Plate

Developed in 2012 by AATCC Commit- between the steepest slope and the flat of water may be used, care should be
tee RA63; jurisdiction transferred in sections of temperature versus time plot taken to ensure that the water does not
2022 to AATCC Committee RA114; reaf- (see Fig. 2 and 11.2). wick to the edge of the test specimen. If
firmed 2013, 2014; editorially revised 3.4 start time, n.—the time at which the water migrates to the edge of the sample,
2016, 2019, 2022. water challenge is added to the specimen. then it is necessary to increase the speci-
men size or reduce the volume and repeat
4. Safety Precautions the test with a new specimen. Further,
Foreword when comparing results, tests must be con-
NOTE: These safety precautions are ducted with the same amount of water.
As moisture management products
for information purposes only. The pre- 5.3 The drying rates of fabrics with a
have entered the marketplace, measure-
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- membrane in its structure can be tested
ment of the drying characteristics of fab-
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- using this method as long as the moisture
rics has gained additional importance.
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use vapor transmission rate of the fabric is
The 2008 AATCC-ASTM Interna-
safe and proper techniques in handling greater than 5,000 g/m2/day (see 14.1 of
tional’s Moisture Management Technical
materials in this test method. Manufac- JIS L 1099, Method B1,) to allow for de-
Supplement: Applicable to Apparel, Lin-
turers MUST be consulted for specific tection of water evaporation. Multi-lay-
ens, and Soft Goods, contains three tech-
details such as materials safety data ered composite fabrics can also be tested
niques for the measurement of drying
sheets and other manufacturer’s recom- using this method.
times of fabrics. This test method is an
mendations. All OSHA standards and 5.4 When testing fabric in socks, the
additional approach to the drying test
rules must also be consulted and fol- socks should be cut open and the inner
methods in the Technical Supplement.
lowed. portion of the sock placed in contact with
4.1 Good laboratory practices should the heated plate, to simulate contact of
1. Purpose and Scope
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all fabric with human skin.
1.1 This test method determines the laboratory areas.
drying rate of a fabric, exposed to a pre- 4.2 The manufacturer’s safety recom-
scribed volume of water, while in contact mendations should be followed when op- 6. Apparatus and Materials
with a heated plate set at 37°C (99°F), the erating laboratory testing equipment.
6.1 Drying rate test apparatus (see
skin surface temperature at which the hu- Fig. 1).
man body starts to perspire. 5. Uses and Limitations
6.2 Temperature recorder—with capa-
1.2 This method is applicable to all
5.1 This test is performed under con- bilities to take readings every 1 s, data
types of fabrics, including knits, wovens,
trolled laboratory temperature and rela- storage, and transmittal to computer data
and non-wovens, as well as to fabrics
tive humidity conditions. While the test file.
taken from end product items.
may be performed at alternative condi- 6.3 IR thermocouple probe—tempera-
tions, for comparison of results, the same ture range of 15.0-50.0 ± 0.1°C (59.0-
2. Principle
conditions must be used. 122.0 ± 0.18°F).
2.1 This method determines the drying 5.2 This test is performed with a set 6.4 Fan box – production of 1.5 ± 0.5
rate of a fabric based on the evaporative amount of water. While different amounts m/s air flow across the width of the hot
rate that occurs when the fabric is placed
in contact with a prescribed amount of
water at the interface of a heated metal
plate, held to a constant temperature.

3. Terminology
3.1 drying rate, n.—the change in vol-
ume per unit time a liquid evaporates
from a textile.
NOTE: Drying rate is dependent upon
textile construction, fiber content, apparel
construction, finishes, the atmospheres in
which the test is performed, and the vol-
ume challenge of the liquid.
3.2 drying time, n.—the time it takes
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

for a specified amount of liquid to evapo-

rate from a textile under controlled test-
ing conditions.
NOTE: In this test method the amount
of water is constant between tests. The
testing conditions are controlled by the
analyzer and the room.
3.3 end time, n.—the time at which the
temperature goes through an inflection Fig. 1—Test apparatus.

420 AATCC TM201-2012(2014)e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
plate, measured directly behind the IR than the desired size, then monitor the the one closest to the air fan to the metal
thermocouple probe. water migration closely. If water migrates plate surface.
6.5 Metal plate—30.5 × 30.5 ± 0.5 cm. to the edge of the sample, then it is neces- 10.4 Position the IR thermocouple
6.6 Flexible heater—30.5 × 30.5 ± 0.5 sary to reduce the volume and repeat the probe in the middle of the specimen 1.0 ±
cm with controller to maintain tempera- test with a new specimen. 0.1 cm above the specimen. It is helpful
ture of 37 ± 1°C (98 ± 2°F). to have a mark on the metal plate which
6.7 Cork board for insulation—30.5 × 9. Conditioning is centered to the field of view of the IR
30.5 ± 0.5 cm. thermocouple probe.
6.8 Micropipette, adjustable volume, 9.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec- 10.5 Start the recorder, lift the free end
0.100-1.000 ± 0.003 mL. imens as directed in ASTM D1776, Stan- of the specimen (the opposite side of the
6.9 Anemometer—hot wire-type, ca- dard Practice for Conditioning and Test- magnetic strip) and apply 0.200 ± 0.003
pable of measuring air flow from 0.5-2.5 ing Textiles (see 14.2). Condition the mL of water on the plate below the speci-
± 0.1 m/s. specimens for at least 4 h in an atmo- men directly under the IR thermocouple
6.10 Magnetic, plastic or metal strip, sphere of 21 ± 2°C (70 ± 4°F), 65 ± 5% probe. Reposition the specimen so the
15.0 cm long, 4.0 ± 2.0 cm wide, 0.2 ± RH, by laying each specimen separately specimen covers the water drop. The start
0.1 cm thick, can be used to hold the on a screen or perforated shelf of a condi- time is when the specimen comes in con-
specimen in place. tioning rack. tact with the water.
6.11 Deionized or distilled water. 9.2 Perform all tests in the standard at-
mosphere for testing. 10.6 View the specimen to determine
the wicking profile generated by the wa-
7. Sampling ter. Verify that the water did not wick to
10. Procedure the edge of the specimen. If the water
7.1 Take rolls representative of a lot
sample. If testing fabric in end items, take 10.1 Turn on the temperature controller does wick to an edge of the sample then
three items from each lot. for the flexible heater and fan to let the use a larger specimen or reduce the vol-
metal plate temperature stabilize to 37 ± ume.
1°C (99 ± 2°F). 10.7 Collect and record the tempera-
8. Test Specimens
10.2 Use a hot wire anemometer to ture every second until temperature re-
8.1 From each fabric sample, cut three verify the air flow across the plate is 1.5 ± turns to the initial temperature. Repeat
specimens (15.0 × 15.0 ± 0.5 cm) from 0.5 m/s. Measure the air flow directly be- the test on the additional specimens.
right, center, and left locations across the hind the IR thermocouple probe.
sample width for each test. 10.3 Place a test specimen on the metal 11. Calculation and Evaluation
8.2 If testing garments or end-products, plate for five minutes to allow the speci-
take specimens from different sections of men to equilibrate to the metal plate tem- 11.1 View the data on the recorder or
the garment; i.e., sleeve, back and front. perature with the side of the specimen in- plot the temperature versus time data us-
8.3 If testing socks or hosiery, slit the tended to be next to the skin placed ing a spreadsheet program for each of the
specimen lengthwise and test each unique against the metal plate surface. Use a three specimens.
construction area. If the specimen is less strip to hold the top edge of the specimen, 11.2 Determine the start and end times

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

Fig. 2—Plot of temperature versus time to determine dry time.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM201-2012(2014)e3 421
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
on the graph. The start time is when the 12. Report shown in Table I.
water is added to the specimen (Time 0 in 13.1.2 Between laboratory precision
Fig. 2). The end time is the time at the in- 12.1 Report the individual and average has not been established for this test
tersection of the section with the steepest drying rates for each fabric stating the method. Until such precision informa-
slope and the flat section of the tempera- water volume used. When comparing tion is available, users of the method
ture plot. To determine this intersection data, laboratory temperature, laboratory should use standard statistical techniques
time value two linear fits are required. relative humidity, instrument air flow, in making any comparison of test results
Generate a linear fit for the steepest sec- and the water volume must be the same. for between-laboratory averages.
tion of the plot by choosing seven data 13.2 Bias. The drying rate can be de-
points within the steepest portion of the 13. Precision and Bias fined only in terms of a test method.
plot (Slope 1 in Fig. 2). Generate a linear There is no independent method for de-
13.1 Precision.
fit for the flat section of temperature plot termining the true value. As a means of
by choosing 25 data points after the in- 13.1.1 An internal laboratory test was
run in 2010 in which five different fabrics estimating this property, the method has
flection in the temperature plot (Slope 2 no known bias.
in Fig. 2). The end time is the intersection were tested in one laboratory over two
of the two linear lines. The drying time is days using two operators using a 0.200 ±
0.003 mL water challenge. The analysis 14. Notes
the difference of the end time and start
time. of variance technique was applied to the 14.1 Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS) may
data set. The analysis is being retained in be obtained through web site: www.jsa.or.jp.
11.3 Average the drying time of the
the RA63 committee files. The number of 14.2 Available from ASTM International,
three specimens.
tests (n), mean average (Mean), 95% con- 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
11.4 Calculate the drying rate (R), us-
fidence interval (95% CI), standard error 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9500; fax: +1.610.832.
ing the following equation:
(SE), and standard deviation (SD) are 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
R = V/Drying Time
where:
R = drying rate, in mL/h
V = volume of water used in the test, Table I—Analysis of Variance
in mL
Drying Time = End time – Start Time, Drying Rate by Fabric (mL/hr @ 0.2 mL challenge) n Mean 95% CI SE SD
in hours 40% polyester, 60% cotton woven (145 g/m2) 12 1.83 ± 0.16 0.07 0.25
Example: R = 0.200 (mL)/0.0836 (h) = 100% polyester double knit (150 g/m2) 12 1.93 ± 0.07 0.03 0.11
2.39 mL/h 100% cotton jersey knit (230 g/m2) 12 0.84 ± 0.05 0.02 0.08
11.5 Average the three values for each 100% polyester fleece, (136 g/m2) 12 1.34 ± 0.07 0.03 0.11
sample. Sock—38% polyester, 25% cotton, 25% nylon, 12% spandex 12 0.66 ± 0.04 0.02 0.07

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

422 AATCC TM201-2012(2014)e3 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM202-2012(2020)

Test Method for Relative Hand Value of Textiles: Instrumental

1. Purpose and Scope a quantitative description of RHV for use
in research and production quality con-
1.1 This method is for the determina- trol. A publication describing the histori-
tion of an instrumental relative hand cal, theoretical and technical background
value (RHV) using the mechanical prop- for the instrumentation on which this test
erties measured on a selected reference method is based is available (see 13.1).
fabric and a comparable candidate fabric. 5.2 The test instrument system pro-
1.2 This method does not purport to re- duces other hand measurement attributes
place AATCC EP5, Evaluation Procedure but this method is specific only to the
for Fabric Hand, nor are the values ob- RHV attribute. Refer to the instrument’s
tained by this method known to be com- instruction manual.
parable to actual tactile sensations felt by 5.3 Caution should be used when com-
human evaluators. paring the RHVs from fabrics with differ-
ent yields, constructions, fiber contents Fig. 2—Test Load Plates
2. Principle and finishes to avoid erroneous conclu-
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

sions. Correlation to hand panel studies mens flat, according to ASTM D1776,
2.1 A specimen is placed over a plate has not been broadly determined. It is the
with a specified diameter opening Standard Practice for Conditioning and
responsibility of the user to determine ap- Testing Textiles (see 13.3).
through which a plunger forces the fabric
plicability to their product/needs.
specimen resulting in mechanical defor-
mation data. Force displacement curve 8. Preparation of Reference Fabric
data from a reference fabric and a test 6. Apparatus and Materials
fabric are used in calculations to produce 8.1 Multiple reference fabrics should
6.1 A relative hand value instrument be established and indentified using the
a Relative Hand Value (RHV). system (RHV-IS), PhabrOmeter™ Sys- New Fabric form in the RHV-IS. Each
tem and accessories and PhES™ soft- reference fabric should have a separate
3. Terminology ware (see 13.2 and Figs. 1 and 2). New Fabric file.
3.1 hand, n.—the tactile sensations or 6.2 Laboratory gloves and forceps. 8.2 Perform tests on multiple sets of
impressions that occur when fabrics are 6.3 Reference fabric(s). A reference specimens (see 9.1-9.3) of a selected ref-
touched, squeezed, rubbed or otherwise fabric must be of the same density type erence fabric specimen to provide statisti-
manipulated. and class and may be of the same fiber cal confidence in the force displacement
3.2 reference fabric, n.—a fabric se- content, construction, processing stage or curves for each reference fabric (see
lected to represent a baseline for compar- a fabric that is chosen for comparison 10.1-10.7) and save test data.
ison of tactile properties of hand. against all fabrics to be tested. 8.2.1 For example, if checking the
3.3 relative hand value, (RHV) n.— RHV values of an application and varia-
an index of properties, relative to a refer- 7. Conditioning tions of the application on woven, 400 g/
ence fabric, as determined by either an m2 (11.8 oz/yd2), polyester/cotton speci-
7.1 Condition reference and test specimens, the reference fabric data base
instrumental system or a subjective hand
evaluation that can be used to predict tac- would be the same fabric that does not
tile sensations a human perceives when have an application or that has been pre-
handling a fabric. pared for finishing; therefore, the experi-
mental applications can be compared to
4. Safety Precautions the unfinished reference specimen data set.
8.3 Selected reference fabric should be
NOTE: These safety precautions are identified according to its class (or type
for information purposes only. The pre- of material). For instance, if one is testing
cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- woven fabric specimens one would not
dures and are not intended to be all inclu- select a knitted reference fabric against
sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use which to compare.
safe and proper techniques in handling
materials in this test method. Manufac- 9. Test Specimens
turers MUST be consulted for specific
details such as material safety data sheets 9.1 Identify the face and back of the
and other manufacturer’s recommenda- specimen to ensure the same side will be
tions. All OSHA standards and rules tested.
must also be consulted and followed. 9.1.1 The technical face of a specimen
4.1 Good laboratory practices should may not always be the one that will be
be followed. Wear safety glasses in all ‘touched’ when selecting an item to pur-
laboratory areas. chase or the one that will be in contact
with the skin when used or worn. Before
5. Uses and Limitations taking specimens, agreement should be
reached between parties as to whether the
5.1 The results from this method yield Fig. 1—PhabrOmeter™ System technical face, back or both sides shall be

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM202-2012(2020) 423
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
tested. 10.7 Save the data before loading the sent to each laboratory for use with their
9.2 Wear gloves during specimen prep- next specimen. instrument’s calculation of Relative Hand
aration, as excessive handling and distor- 10.8 Repeat 10.6 and 10.7 for each re- Value for each specimen in the study set.
tion of fabric in any manner must be maining specimen. 12.1.2 The analysis of variance tech-
avoided. Take specimens no nearer to the nique was used on the data collected. A
selvage or edge of the specimen than 11. Calculation, Report and Interpretation full report is on file for reference at the
10.0% of the fabric width. AATCC Technical Center.
11.1 From the deformation extraction
9.3 Cut three 113 ± 2 mm (4.5 ± 0.1 12.1.3 Precision. The components of
curves generated from each specimen,
in.) diameter specimens from a fabric variation of the Relative Hand Values by
the software calculates the averaged fab-
specimen using the specimen cutter ac- fabric as standard deviations of are given
ric attributes and once a reference fabric
cessory. Where possible, each specimen in Table II.
is selected a RHV can automatically be
should contain different groups of length- Results showed that the hand values
produced (see 13.4 and see Appendix A
wise and widthwise yarns or sites (non- evaluated on Day 1 and Day 2 were not
for the formula used in the calculation of
wovens) from specimen locations across significantly different at the 95% confi-
RHV).
the specimen’s width that are free of dence level. Results also showed that the
wrinkling. 11.2 Report the produced average
RHV for each specimen. hand values obtained under different
9.3.1 If sampling from products or gar- standard atmospheres (23°C [73°F], 50%
ments, select specimens from various lo- 11.3 If a common reference fabric has
been selected and confidence in its data- RH and 22°C [72°F], 65% RH) were not
cations away from seams, trims, hems or significantly different at 95% confidence
buttons. base has been established, a general rank-
ing of the RHVs for all tested fabrics may level. Within laboratory and between lab-
be undertaken (see 5.3). oratories precision and critical differ-
10. Procedure ences are given in Tables III and IV.
11.4 A smaller RHV value indicates a
10.1 Start the instrument and software specimen performs closer to the reference 12.2 Bias. The true value of the relative
system for testing and open New Fabric fabric. Other analysis tools may be used hand value can be defined only in terms
form. to interpret the results. of a test method. There is no independent
10.2 Determine mass of one of the method for determining the true value.
three specimens and record in grams 12. Precision and Bias As an estimate of this property, this test
(0.00). If a specimen fabric’s construction method has no known bias.
has the propensity for variable weights 12.1 Interlaboratory Study. Testing us-
(i.e., nonwoven, cheesecloth), measure ing the Relative Hand Value: Instrumen- 13. Notes
all three specimens and use the average tal Method was conducted in 2010 by
four laboratories with seven instruments. 13.1 Pan, Ning, Quantification and Evalua-
mass. tion of Human Tactile Sense Towards Fabrics,
10.3 Determine the fabric thickness ac- Laboratories tested five processed speci-
mens that were softened or had other af- International Journal of Design & Nature,
cording to ASTM D1777, Standard Test Vol. 1, 2007, pp48-60; web site: www.
Method for Thickness of Textile Materi- ter preparation, dyeing or process treat- phabrometer.com/FAQ/MajorPaper.pdf.
als, and record to the nearest mm (see ment. The specimens used in the study 13.2 A RHV-IS, the PhabrOmeter™ Sys-
were: 100% polypropylene, nonwoven,
--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

13.3). If a specimen fabric’s construction tem, accessories and PhES™ software, can be
has the propensity for variable thick- 1.9 oz/yd2; 100% cotton interlock knit, purchased from Nu Cybertek Inc., 2925 Spaf-
nesses (i.e., nonwoven, upholstery), mea- 6.2 oz/yd2; 100% cotton woven print ford., Ste. D, Davis CA 95618; tel: +1.530.
sure all three specimens and use the aver- cloth, 3.2 oz/yd2; 76% Nylon/24% Span- 758.3258; toll-free: +1.877.718.1880; fax: +1.
dex warp knit, 5.6 oz/yd2; and 100% ny- 888.566.1298; e-mail: [email protected];
age thickness. web site: www.nucybertek.com.
lon woven, 3.5 oz/yd2. In each laboratory,
10.4 Enter the mass (see 10.2) and the 13.3 Available from ASTM International,
one operator tested three specimens of
thickness (see 10.3) into the opened New 100 Barr Harbor Dr., W. Conshohocken PA
each fabric on two different days using
Fabric form and select the System’s 19428; tel: +1.610.832.9555; fax: +1.610.832.
different specimens.
Choice check box then save. Entering 9555; web site: www.astm.org.
this information allows the software to 12.1.1 One laboratory whose instru- 13.4 A fabric’s end use may determine
calculate linear density (µg/cm) automat- ment’s calibration was verified by the in- which side of a specimen will be tested but if
ically. Select the appropriate test load strument manufacturer performed testing unknown, either side of the fabric may be
plate for the calculated linear density of on each of the specimen fabrics in their tested. However, the direction in which speci-
the specimen being tested (see Table I). unfinished state. Those data files were mens are tested needs to be consistent. For
10.4.1 If the candidate specimen has a
different linear density as the result of ex-
posure to textile preparation, finishing, or Table I—Test Load Plates by Linear Density
laundering processes than the reference
fabric’s linear density, then the System’s Fabric Description Linear Density, µg/cm # of Plates to Use
Choice check box should not be checked. Super light <280 None
The appropriate linear density must be Light 280 ~ 1200 1
selected manually to assure that the can- Medium 1200 ~ 3440 2
didate fabric specimen is entered with the Heavy >3440 3
same linear density as its reference fabric.
10.5 Set the instrument to Loading Test Table II—Summary Data for Day 1 and Day 2 with Standard Deviations
Plate status and place the appropriate
number of test load plates onto the load RHV RHV RHV
plate platform. Specimen ID Minimum Maximum Mean SD
10.6 Activate the Loading Test Speci- Nonwoven 0.056 0.151 0.086 0.03
men status icon. With gloved hands or Cotton knit 1.493 1.913 1.772 0.15
forceps, mount the specimen on the spec- Cotton woven 0.273 0.541 0.385 0.10
imen holder with the side to be tested fac- Nylon/spandex warp knit 0.300 0.534 0.399 0.08
ing down and start the test. Nylon woven 0.201 0.397 0.287 0.06

424 AATCC TM202-2012(2020) AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table III—Precision N =3 (Number of specimens per sample) Yk will be represented by an array of p=8
data points as
Pooled Standard
Deviation DF Precision Yk = (yk1, yk2,…, ykp)
Between Laboratory 0.5068 7 0.1916 A2. Since the reference fabric Ys has
Within Laboratories 0.5068 10 0.1603
Between Test Intervals (days) 0.4991 35 0.0856
been selected and tested the same way,
there is
Ys = (ys1, ys2,…, ysp)
Table IV—Critical Differences for One Operator per Laboratory (Instrument)
with weight pre-determined for each fea-
Number of Specimens Between Laboratories Within Laboratory ture contained in a weight array W
1 0.3319 0.2276
2 0.2347 0.1964 W = (w1, w2,…, wp)
3 0.1916 0.1603
A3. The RHV is actually the weighted
4 0.1659 0.1444
5 0.1483 0.1241
Euclidian Distance between the two fabrics

 wi ( yki – ysi )
2
example, if you want the specimen to be face 14.3 Developed in 2012 by AATCC RA89. RHV =
up, then all the sample specimens to be tested i=1
in your defined group or class should be face
up.
Appendix A A4. Based on the reference fabric, the
Calculation of the RHV value now becomes an indicator of
14. History Relative Hand Values (RHV) hand preference and provides hand pref-
14.1 Reaffirmed 2020. erence ranking. The smaller the RHV
14.2 Reaffirmed 2014, 2013. Editorially re- A1. After the feature selection process value, the closer the fabric tested to the
vised 2019. from the extraction curve, a fabric tested reference fabric in terms of fabric hand.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM202-2012(2020) 425
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
AATCC TM203-2021

Test Method for Light Blocking Effect of Textiles: Spectrophotometric

Foreword light. external port with a white standard tile to
3.3 regular transmission, n.—pro- establish the one-hundred percent trans-
AATCC TM148-1989, Light Blocking cess by which incident light is transmit- mission standard and to complete the
Effect of Curtain Materials, was discon- ted through an object in a rectilinear, sphere for further transmission readings.
tinued in 1994. During the time of its dis- straight-through manner, without diffu- 6.3 Means of blocking transmission to
continuance, it was found that a standard sion. determine zero percent transmission.
laboratory sphere spectrophotometer 3.4 spectrophotometer, n.—an instru- 6.4 If the spectrophotometer is
used in transmission mode could be used ment used for measuring the transmit- equipped with adjustable ultraviolet en-

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---
to measure the light blocking effect of tance and/or reflectance of specimens as ergy, standardize the amount of ultravio-
textiles used in end uses such as partial a function of wavelength. let energy in the spectrophotometer light
and full blackout curtains in both residen- 3.5 total transmission, n.—the amount source (see 14.1).
tial and contract applications. This of light transmitted comprising diffuse
method uses spectrophotometric measur- plus non-diffuse transmission. 7. Sampling
ing equipment that provides precise, re- 3.6 transmission, n.—process by which
producible and traceable light measure- incident light is transmitted through an 7.1 Take five representative test speci-
ments. These instruments are currently in object. mens from the sample. Increase the num-
wide industrial use. ber of specimens accordingly to include
different areas that may have varying
4. Safety Precautions light transmission characteristics within
1. Purpose and Scope
NOTE: These safety precautions are the total sample area. Textiles such as
1.1 This test method is intended to for information purposes only. The pre- long repeat jacquards may require a
spectrophotometrically measure the light cautions are ancillary to the testing proce- larger number of specimens in order to
blocking properties of window covering dures and are not intended to be all inclu- obtain a more representative sample. Tex-
textiles against light passing through sive. It is the user’s responsibility to use tiles containing large repeats of alternat-
them and being seen by a standard ob- safe and proper techniques in handling ing diaphanous and opaque areas may
server on the darkened side of the textile materials in this test method. Manufac- have the light blocking effect of each area
(typically a curtain or drape). turers MUST be consulted for specific sampled separately.
1.2 This method is applicable to all details such as safety data sheets and
types of fabrics, including knits, wovens, other manufacturer’s recommendations. 8. Test Specimens
and non-wovens, as well as to fabrics All OSHA standards and rules must also
taken from end product items. However, be consulted and followed. 8.1 Each specimen should be large
it is not recommended for mesh struc- enough to fit onto the specimen holding
4.1 Good laboratory practices should
tures with mesh holes greater than 3 mm frame and completely cover the transmis-
be followed. Wear eye protection in all
across. sion port of the spectrophotometer.
laboratory areas.
8.2 Take multiple specimens to provide
4.2 The manufacturer’s safety recom-
an appropriate random sample from dif-
2. Principle mendations should be followed when op-
ferent width and length areas of the fab-
erating laboratory testing equipment.
2.1 The test method assesses the per- ric, not taking any specimens from within
centage of light from a light source 10% of the width from the selvedge or
5. Uses and Limitations machine edge.
blocked by a textile material by measur-
ing the original light and subtracting from 5.1 This test is performed under con-
it the light passing through the materials. trolled laboratory temperature and rela- 9. Conditioning
The amount of light transmitted through tive humidity conditions. While the test
the fabric is compared on a percentage 9.1 Prior to testing, condition test spec-
may be performed at alternative condi- imens as directed in ASTM D1776, Stan-
basis, to the amount of light transmitted tions, such as household ambient temper-
without any blocking of the light (total dard Practice for Conditioning and Test-
ature and relative humidity, for compari- ing Textiles. (Condition the specimens
transmission). The percent of light that is son of results, the same conditions must
not transmitted, out of the total transmis- adequately in an atmosphere of 21 ± 2°C
be used. (70 ± 4°F), 65 ± 5% RH, by laying each
sion, represents the material’s light block- 5.2 The light this test is performed with
ing capability. specimen separately on a screen or perfo-
is from a xenon lamp. Different light rated shelf of a conditioning rack. Condi-
2.2 The method uses the CIE Y tristim- sources may be used and results may, tioning time will be dependent on factors
ulus value, calculated using illuminant therefore, also be different, such as with indicated in ASTM D1176.)
D65 and the 10° observer as the measure spectrophotometric instruments with
of total transmission. 9.2 Perform all tests in the standard at-
band width infrared (IR) capacity. mosphere for testing.
3. Terminology 6. Apparatus and Materials 10. Procedure (see Fig. 1)
3.1 diffuse transmission, n.—process 6.1 Spectrophotometer with transmis- 10.1 Operational check of total trans-
by which incident light, while being sion measuring capability with a means mission with no light blocking.
transmitted through an object, is redi- of precisely mounting and anchoring a 10.1.1 Block the external/reflectance
rected or scattered over a range of angles. specimen in the transmission holding port with a white standard to complete
3.2 light blocking, n.—the ability of a clamp. the sphere.
textile to prevent the transmission of 6.2 Means of covering reflectance or 10.1.2 Set the machine to transmission

426 AATCC TM203-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
mission with opaque light blocking. 13. Precision and Bias
10.2.1 Keep the white standard in place 13.1 A piece-dyed woven polyester
at the external/reflectance port to main- fabric of blue color, designed as a partial
tain the completed sphere. light blocking curtain, coated and flocked
10.2.2 Block the transmission port subsequent to dyeing, was measured
with an opaque, black standard, such as a (n=5) in single, double and triple layers
metal plate. on two different manufacturers’ instru-
10.2.3 Measure and record total trans- ments in one lab and on the same type of
mission. The CIE YD65-10 value of the one manufacturer’s instrument in a sec-
measurement should be 0. ond lab (see Table I).
10.3 Record transmission through the To provide more detailed information on
specimen material. single operator, single instrument repeat-
10.3.1 Keep the white standard in place ability and sample size at a 95% confidence
to maintain the completed sphere. level, 30 specimens of the same fabric
10.3.2 Place the specimen to be mea- were measured at Lab 2, with the instru-
sured in the transmission holder clamp. ment from Manufacturer A (see Table II).
10.3.3 Measure and record the light 13.2 Thirty crock squares of 100% cot-
transmission using the CIE YD65-10 tristim- ton plain weave sheeting from the same
lot were measured at Lab 1, with the in-
ulus value.
strument from Manufacturer A (see Table
III).
11. Calculation 13.3 Bias. Light blocking capacity of
fabrics by the spectrophotometric method
11.1 Calculate the light blocking effect can be defined only in terms of a test
(x) in percent (%), using Equation 1: method. There is no independent method
for determining the true value. As a
x = 100-A (Equation 1) means of estimating this property, the
method has no known bias.
where:
A = CIE YD65-10 tristimulus value as 14. Notes and References
measured in 10.3
14.1 See AATCC EP11, Evaluation
11.2 Average the calculated values Procedure for Spectrophotometer UV En-
from each of the five specimens. ergy Calibration Procedure for Optically
Brightened Textiles, as included in the
AATCC Manual of International Test
12. Report Methods and Procedures, for details re-
garding ultraviolet energy standardiza-
12.1 Cite this test method as having tion of spectrophotometer light sources.
been used. EP11 is available from AATCC, P.O. Box
Fig. 1—Specimens Mounted 12.2 Report the light source used and 12215, Research Triangle Park NC
in Two Different Instrument whether or not the amount of ultraviolet 27709; tel: +1.919.549.8141; fax: +1.919.
Manufacturers’ Spectrophotometers energy in the spectrophotometer light 549.8933; email: [email protected]; web
source has been standardized. site: www.aatcc.org.
12.3 Report the average light blocking
measuring mode without any sample in effect for all of the specimens tested. 15. History
the transmission holder. 12.4 Report the number of specimen
tested. 15.1 Revised in 2021 for clarity and to
10.1.3 Measure and record total trans- add history section per the AATCC style
mission, using the CIE YD65-10 tristimulus 12.5 Report the standard deviation for guide.
value, which should result in a measure- the resultant data. 15.2 Revised in 2016.
ment of 100. 12.6 Report the temperature and rela- 15.3 Developed in 2014 by AATCC
10.2 Operational check of total trans- tive humidity during testing. Committee RA36.

--``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM203-2021 427
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accuris under license with AATCC Copyright © 2022 American Association of Textile Chemists
Licensee=Underwriters and
Laboratories - Ho Colorists
Chi Ming City, Vie/5909636157, User=Le,
No reproduction or networking permitted without license from Accuris Not for Resale, 11/23/2023 20:10:19 MST
Table I—Statistics for n = 5, Two Labs, Two Instruments
Single Layer
Lab 1, Instrument Lab 2, Instrument Lab 1, Instrument
Manufacturer A Manufacturer A Manufacturer B
Average St Dev Average St Dev Average St Dev
96.46 0.03 96.50 0.15 96.58 0.01
Combined Average Combined Standard Deviation
96.51 0.10
95% Confidence (Single Layer, Combined Data)
n Standard Error
1 0.20
2 0.14
3 0.11
4 0.10
5 0.09
Double Layer
Lab 1, Instrument Lab 2, Instrument Lab 1, Instrument
Manufacturer A Manufacturer A Manufacturer B
Average St Dev Average St Dev Average St Dev
99.83 0.00 99.63 0.01 99.84 0.01
Combined Average Combined Standard Deviation
99.77 0.10
95% Confidence (Double Layer, Combined Data)
n Standard Error
1 0.20
2 0.14
3 0.12
4 0.10
5 0.09
Triple Layer
Lab 1, Instrument Lab 2, Instrument Lab 1, Instrument
Manufacturer A Manufacturer A Manufacturer B
Average St Dev Average St Dev Average St Dev
99.98 0.00 99.97 0.00 99.99 0.00
Combined Average Combined Standard Deviation
99.98 0.01
95% Confidence (Triple Layer, Combined Data)
n Standard Error
1 0.02
2 0.01
3 0.01
4 0.01
5 0.01

Table II—Statistics for Blue Polyester: n = 30, Single Lab, Single Instrument
Single Layer Double Layer Triple Layer
Average St Dev Average St Dev Average St Dev
96.45 0.30 99.63 0.01 99.97 0.00
95% Confidence 95% Confidence 95% Confidence
n Standard Error n Standard Error n Standard Error
1 0.582 1 0.026 1 0.008
2 0.411 2 0.019 2 0.006
3 0.336 3 0.015 3 0.005
4 0.291 4 0.013 4 0.004
5 0.260 5 0.012 5 0.004
6 0.237 6 0.011 6 0.003
7 0.220 7 0.010 7 0.003
8 0.206 8 0.009 8 0.003
9 0.194 9 0.009 9 0.003
10 0.184 10 0.008 10 0.003
30 0.106 30 0.005 30 0.002

428 AATCC TM203-2021 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023
Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Provided by Accur

AATCC Technical Manual 2018
100% (2)
AATCC Technical Manual 2018
516 pages
Aatcc TM20-2021
No ratings yet
Aatcc TM20-2021
20 pages
Aatcc TM 2022
No ratings yet
Aatcc TM 2022
564 pages
AATCC Quality-Control-Catalog 2024 Final Digital
No ratings yet
AATCC Quality-Control-Catalog 2024 Final Digital
36 pages
Test Method For Colorfastness To Crocking: Crockmeter: AATCC TM8-2016e (2022) e
100% (2)
Test Method For Colorfastness To Crocking: Crockmeter: AATCC TM8-2016e (2022) e
4 pages
AATCC 22-2017 Water Repellency
No ratings yet
AATCC 22-2017 Water Repellency
3 pages
AATCC - Quality Control Catalog - 2023 Digital FINAL
No ratings yet
AATCC - Quality Control Catalog - 2023 Digital FINAL
36 pages
Aatcc 16.3-2020
No ratings yet
Aatcc 16.3-2020
3 pages
AATCC 96-2004 Test Method For Commercial Laundering
100% (1)
AATCC 96-2004 Test Method For Commercial Laundering
5 pages
Iso 6330 2021
100% (1)
Iso 6330 2021
13 pages
This Test Method Is Not For Resale
100% (3)
This Test Method Is Not For Resale
3 pages
2022 AATCC - Quality Control Catalog
No ratings yet
2022 AATCC - Quality Control Catalog
36 pages
Fiber Analysis: Quantitative: AATCC Test Method 20A-2017
50% (2)
Fiber Analysis: Quantitative: AATCC Test Method 20A-2017
9 pages
AATCC Test Method 81 (PH)
88% (16)
AATCC Test Method 81 (PH)
2 pages
Aatcc 22
86% (7)
Aatcc 22
3 pages
Saliva - DIN 53160 - 1 - 2010
0% (1)
Saliva - DIN 53160 - 1 - 2010
4 pages
ISO 13937-1-2000 CGSB 4.2 No. 12.3
No ratings yet
ISO 13937-1-2000 CGSB 4.2 No. 12.3
18 pages
Aatcc 8 - 2016
50% (10)
Aatcc 8 - 2016
3 pages
2018 AATCC Laundering Methods
67% (3)
2018 AATCC Laundering Methods
48 pages
Aatcc - Ts Methods 1
100% (1)
Aatcc - Ts Methods 1
46 pages
D3107 07 (Reapproved 2011)
100% (1)
D3107 07 (Reapproved 2011)
6 pages
Iso Textile Standards
100% (9)
Iso Textile Standards
21 pages
Aatcc 197-199
No ratings yet
Aatcc 197-199
10 pages
Astm D3776-07
100% (4)
Astm D3776-07
5 pages
TM116
100% (1)
TM116
3 pages
Aatcc 150 2012
100% (2)
Aatcc 150 2012
4 pages
AATCC 163-2002 Colorfastness - Dye Transfer in Storage-Fabric-to-Fabric
80% (5)
AATCC 163-2002 Colorfastness - Dye Transfer in Storage-Fabric-to-Fabric
2 pages
ISO 3071 2020 Textiles-Determination of PH of Aqueous Extract BZ-244
No ratings yet
ISO 3071 2020 Textiles-Determination of PH of Aqueous Extract BZ-244
12 pages
Aatcc TS-008
80% (5)
Aatcc TS-008
2 pages
AATCC Quality-Control-Catalog 2025 Final Digital
No ratings yet
AATCC Quality-Control-Catalog 2025 Final Digital
36 pages
ASTM Standards Source (Textiles Collection)
No ratings yet
ASTM Standards Source (Textiles Collection)
7 pages
Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics: Standard Test Method For
No ratings yet
Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics: Standard Test Method For
7 pages
BS EN ISO 105-C06 Assignment
No ratings yet
BS EN ISO 105-C06 Assignment
10 pages
Physical Test Methods Index For Clothing
100% (1)
Physical Test Methods Index For Clothing
6 pages
Water Repellency (Spray Test)
100% (3)
Water Repellency (Spray Test)
3 pages
TM7 Print Durability
100% (1)
TM7 Print Durability
4 pages
Aatcc TM008
50% (2)
Aatcc TM008
4 pages
Color Fastness To Wash (ISO 105 C06)
33% (3)
Color Fastness To Wash (ISO 105 C06)
4 pages
AATCC - 15 - 2002 - CF To Perspiration
100% (2)
AATCC - 15 - 2002 - CF To Perspiration
3 pages
16322-2 - Determination of Spirality After Laundering
No ratings yet
16322-2 - Determination of Spirality After Laundering
18 pages
Astm d1683 PDF
No ratings yet
Astm d1683 PDF
9 pages
About AATCC
No ratings yet
About AATCC
13 pages
Astm D3512
100% (2)
Astm D3512
6 pages
AATCC - Quality Control Catalog - Updated 2021
No ratings yet
AATCC - Quality Control Catalog - Updated 2021
36 pages
As 2001.4.15-2006 Methods of Test For Textiles Colourfastness Tests - Determination of Colourfastness To Wash
100% (1)
As 2001.4.15-2006 Methods of Test For Textiles Colourfastness Tests - Determination of Colourfastness To Wash
2 pages
Iso 13937 2 2000
No ratings yet
Iso 13937 2 2000
11 pages
ISO 2061 Yarn Twist PDF
100% (1)
ISO 2061 Yarn Twist PDF
12 pages
Ni-Cad Battery Sizing Calculation (IEEE 1115)
No ratings yet
Ni-Cad Battery Sizing Calculation (IEEE 1115)
2 pages
Astm D3512 PDF
No ratings yet
Astm D3512 PDF
2 pages
Wicking ATTC
100% (1)
Wicking ATTC
3 pages
Aatcc TM116-2013
No ratings yet
Aatcc TM116-2013
3 pages
A Project Report
No ratings yet
A Project Report
7 pages
Iso 13937 2 en PDF
100% (1)
Iso 13937 2 en PDF
8 pages
I.S. en Iso 16373-3-2014
No ratings yet
I.S. en Iso 16373-3-2014
42 pages
Snagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace) : Standard Test Method For
No ratings yet
Snagging Resistance of Fabrics (Mace) : Standard Test Method For
8 pages
Multimedia - Learning Livro Inglês
No ratings yet
Multimedia - Learning Livro Inglês
99 pages
DB2 Redirect Restore Using TSM
No ratings yet
DB2 Redirect Restore Using TSM
8 pages
Apparel Hometextiles Performance Standards Manual V2 1
No ratings yet
Apparel Hometextiles Performance Standards Manual V2 1
47 pages
Test Report
No ratings yet
Test Report
24 pages
AATCC Test Method 15
No ratings yet
AATCC Test Method 15
2 pages
CLI Reference v12 3
No ratings yet
CLI Reference v12 3
314 pages
Aatcc 61-2010
No ratings yet
Aatcc 61-2010
5 pages
Practical and Scientific Aspects of Injection Molding Simulation
No ratings yet
Practical and Scientific Aspects of Injection Molding Simulation
156 pages
MOD 4 Notes
No ratings yet
MOD 4 Notes
19 pages
MCQs - Deep Learning Fundamentals - Understanding Neural Networks, Activation Functions, and Bac
No ratings yet
MCQs - Deep Learning Fundamentals - Understanding Neural Networks, Activation Functions, and Bac
10 pages
Testing Textile Color Fastness To Water
No ratings yet
Testing Textile Color Fastness To Water
6 pages
Horizon CT5.1
No ratings yet
Horizon CT5.1
40 pages
Unit-4 Image Restoration
No ratings yet
Unit-4 Image Restoration
72 pages
MRG 2
No ratings yet
MRG 2
27 pages
Aatcc 107
No ratings yet
Aatcc 107
2 pages
Developing World Shaping Solutions For A Global Economy: Whitepaper 3.0
No ratings yet
Developing World Shaping Solutions For A Global Economy: Whitepaper 3.0
31 pages
Lunit Insight CXR Openvino Solution Brief
No ratings yet
Lunit Insight CXR Openvino Solution Brief
3 pages
Houdini 5 Chess Engine - User's Guide
No ratings yet
Houdini 5 Chess Engine - User's Guide
39 pages
Textile Testing: Presented By: Nisha Sangle Ankita Desai Poonam Patil Gayathri Rangnathan
No ratings yet
Textile Testing: Presented By: Nisha Sangle Ankita Desai Poonam Patil Gayathri Rangnathan
23 pages
Production Activity Control Scheduling
No ratings yet
Production Activity Control Scheduling
31 pages
USER MANUAL InSite Pro M
No ratings yet
USER MANUAL InSite Pro M
96 pages
DG 441
No ratings yet
DG 441
12 pages
Configuration CME UC540
No ratings yet
Configuration CME UC540
14 pages
Basic Computer Security Tutorial
No ratings yet
Basic Computer Security Tutorial
13 pages
User-Defined Functions in C
No ratings yet
User-Defined Functions in C
6 pages
Palmer, S. - Rethinking Perceptual Organization - The Role of Uniform Connectedness
No ratings yet
Palmer, S. - Rethinking Perceptual Organization - The Role of Uniform Connectedness
28 pages
Tech Reviewer Brief - 2.0
No ratings yet
Tech Reviewer Brief - 2.0
17 pages
0 - بحث عن اللغة العربية PDF
No ratings yet
0 - بحث عن اللغة العربية PDF
1 page
Mock Insem Q.P2023-24
No ratings yet
Mock Insem Q.P2023-24
1 page
Gowtham P 4
No ratings yet
Gowtham P 4
2 pages
Raghav Assignment 7
No ratings yet
Raghav Assignment 7
7 pages
Telnet
No ratings yet
Telnet
2 pages
VAST2024 - MC2 Data Description
No ratings yet
VAST2024 - MC2 Data Description
3 pages
ICT - Tools in Education by Roshan - Sai
No ratings yet
ICT - Tools in Education by Roshan - Sai
1 page
Maranatha Christian Academy: Senior High School Department
No ratings yet
Maranatha Christian Academy: Senior High School Department
2 pages

Aatcc 2023

Uploaded by

Aatcc 2023

Uploaded by

Volume 98, 2023

AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS

T standards in this volume of the Manual of Interna-

4 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

TM110 RA36 Whiteness of Textiles ....................................................................................................................... 193

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 5

6 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 7

Numerical List of Discontinued AATCC Standards

8 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`---

10 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen Wire .................................................................................................... TM119 223

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 11

12 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 --``,`,,,``,,```,`,,,,,,`````,-`-`,,`,,`,`,,`--- 13

UV Energy of Optically Brightened Textiles: Spectrophotometer Calibration .......................................... EP11 493

IDENTIFICATION AND ANALYSIS

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 15

MOISTURE MANAGEMENT PROPERTIES

16 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

WET PROCESSING PROPERTIES

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 17

T he following AATCC standards have been developed,

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2022 19

Test Method for Colorfastness to Acids and Alkalis

20 AATCC TM6-2021 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e 21

Table I—Components of Variance

22 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e 23

24 AATCC TM8-2016e(2022)e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Perspiration

Fig. 2—Vertical perspiration tester.

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM15-2021e 25

26 AATCC TM15-2021e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Table 2—Precision Table for

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM15-2021e 27

28 AATCC TM15-2021e AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Test Method for Colorfastness to Light: Outdoor

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 29

30 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Equal To But Not 10.1 Use of AATCC Blue Wool Light-

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 31

32 AATCC TM16.1-2022 AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023

Sample Identification _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Material Exposed: Face __________________________________ Back ___________________________________

Colorfastness to Light Rating___________________________________ Lightfastness Classification __________________________________

Acceptance Compared to Reference Sample (Yes/No)_____________________________________

Test Specimen Compared To: Masked Portion ___________________________________

Unmasked Portion__________________________________ Unexposed Original _________________________________

Colorfastness to Light Rating determined by:

Gray Scale for Color Change __________________________________________

Instrumentally, Name Type __________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Temperature Controlled By: Ambient (Dry Bulb) _____________________________________ °C

Black Panel ________________________________ °C Black Standard _______________________________ °C

Exposure Controlled By: AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standards _______________________________________

Radiant Energy ________________________________ Other ______________________________

Total Radiant Energy __________________________________

Type of Test Apparatus ______________________________________________________________________________ Model No. ______________________

Serial No. ________________________________ Manufacturer’s Name_______________________________________________________________________

Type of Water Supply_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Mounting Procedure: Backed ________________________________ Unbacked_________________________________

Sample Rotation Schedule ________________________________ % Relative Humidity__________________________________

For Daylight Behind Glass, report the following:

Exposure Dates: From ________________________________ To _____________________________

Exposure Latitude ________________________________ Exposure Angle _______________________________

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ___________________________________ If Yes, Specify Type_________________________________

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum __________°C Maximum __________°C Avg. __________°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum __________°C Maximum __________°C Avg. __________°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum __________ Maximum __________ Avg. __________

Hours of Wetness: Rain _______________________________ Rain and Dew ____________________

AATCC Manual of International Test Methods and Procedures/2023 AATCC TM16.1-2022 33

Material Exposed: Face Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating_ Lightfastness Classification

Unmasked Portion__ Unexposed Original _

Black Panel __ °C Black Standard _ °C

Radiant Energy __ Other

Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________________________________ Model No.

Serial No. Manufacturer’s Name_______________________________________

Mounting Procedure: Backed Unbacked_

Sample Rotation Schedule % Relative Humidity__

Exposure Dates: From ____ To _

Exposure Latitude __ Exposure Angle _

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ___ If Yes, Specify Type_

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum Maximum Avg. __

Hours of Wetness: Rain ___________ Rain and Dew

Material Exposed: Face Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating_ Lightfastness Classification

Unmasked Portion__ Unexposed Original _

Black Panel __ °C Black Standard _ °C

Radiant Energy __ Other

Type of Test Apparatus ________________________________________________________ Model No.

Serial No. Manufacturer’s Name_______________________________________

Option Employed _______ Elapsed Exposure Time

Mounting Procedure: Backed Unbacked_

Sample Rotation Schedule % Relative Humidity__

Exposure Dates: From ____ To _

Exposure Latitude __ Exposure Angle _

Exposed Behind Window Glass: Yes/No ___ If Yes, Specify Type_

Daily Ambient Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Test Environment Temperature: Minimum °C Maximum °C Avg. __°C

Daily % Relative Humidity: Minimum Maximum Avg. __

Hours of Wetness: Rain ___________ Rain and Dew

Material Exposed: Face_ Back _

Colorfastness to Light Rating _ Lightfastness Classification _

Unmasked Portion _ Unexposed Original_

Black Panel _°C Black Standard °C